FavBeadStitches SIP 2014 EMag

Favorite presents

Special

2014 COLLECTOR’S EDITION!

Bead Stitches

37

best-ever beading projects

featuring

bracelets, necklaces, and earrings by the WORLD’S TOP BEADERS Make Stand-Out Jewelry Using

32

FAVORITE TECHNIQUES

-Herringbone -Right-angle weave -Peyote and more!

make this stunning cuff with bead embroidery p. 35

BEAD CROCHET

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CHEVRON CHAIN

NETTING

3/6/14 2:13 PM

CLEARLY KUMIHIMO Learn the ins and outs of this Japanese braiding technique

Join 2013 Beadwork Designer of the Year Jill Wiseman in her DVD dedicated to teaching you not only the kumihimo braiding technique but how to incorporate beads into the process. Complete with expert instruction, helpful tips, and troubleshooting information, this 86-minute video equips you with all the skills necessary to make beautiful kumihimo jewelry. Order your copy of this DVD today to: • Pump up your beadwork with tips for mixing bead colors and shapes to create kumihimo braiding patterns, and add texture with Jill’s additional tips. • Learn three ways to finish your kumihimo jewelry beautifully and efficiently. • Skip the frustration–Jill details common problems you may encounter and the solutions you’ll need to know for troubleshooting. • And much more!

Start creating beautiful kumihimo jewelry at: shop.beadingdaily.com/KumihimoDVD

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HERRINGBONE

Heaven

Project by Jill Wiseman

Join Beadwork magazine Editor Melinda Barta as she covers all aspects of herringbone stitch in her new book. Learn everything you need to know to master this beautiful stitch and all its varietions— from beginning to advanced techniques. Get this must-have book today to:

Mastering Herringbone Stitch: The Complete Guide By Melinda Barta 168 pages • 8 ½ x 10 ¼ $24.99 ISBN: 978-1-59668-632-8

• Master herringbone stitch and learn all the stitch variations in-depth. • Learn numerous stitch options for starting, joining, embellishing, shaping, and finishing your beadwork. • Discover more than 300 all-new, highly detailed illustrations. • Practice your new skills with 21 projects by Melinda and Beadwork Designers of the Year including Jean Campbell, Lisa Kan, Jean Power and Kelly Wiese! • And much, much more!

Find this comprehensive book perfect for expanding your beadwork at: shop.beadingdaily.com/MasterHerringbone

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contents

15

59

120

56

68

39

projects 6 Fire Flower Bracelet Carole Ohl 10 Diamonds Squared Linda Lehman

12 Crystal Squares Bracelet Eleonore Pieper

15 Royal Medallions Kelli Burns 18 Peyote Sunburst Jennifer VanBenschoten

20 Shimmering Tapestry Michele Anderson

22 Summertime Blues Heather Kahn

48 Runway of Pearls Barbara Falkowitz

52 Elegant Endings Kelly Wiese 56 Bezeled Beauties Bonnie Clewans 59 Affinity Series Jean Power 62 Cascading Links Bracelet Cynthia Rutledge

65 Chain with Charm Roxanne Rogers

68 Snow in Jerusalem Svetlana Dubinsky

25 Winter Solstice Marcie Carroll

72 Passion Flower Lisa Kan

28 Arabesque Bracelet Julie Walker

75 Rickrack Bracelet Carole Ohl

30 Rich Ruffles Shelley Nybakke

78 This & That Melinda Barta

32 Marrakech Earrings Lisa Kan

81 Heavenly Hexagons

35 Ripple Effect Sherry Serafini 39 Garden Lace Kelly Wiese 42 Sleek in Silver Hatsumi Oshitani

46 Lucky Clovers Rachel McEnroe

Mikki Ferrugiaro

84 Go for Baroque

96 Miriam Bangle Jean Power 100 Edwardian Ruffles Leslie Frazier

104 Metallic Ribbon Bracelet Venetia Perry

108 Fiori Necklace Jean Campbell

112 Riviera Rivoli Carole Ohl 116 Wildflower Earrings Melanie Potter

120 Moroccan Tiles Heather Kahn

123 Floradora Necklace Glorianne Ljubich

4 EDITOR’S LETTER 126 TECHNIQUES

Melanie Potter

88 Petite Pearls Toggle Csilla Csirmaz

91 Jasmine Pearls Nancy Cain

on the cover Ripple Effect by Sherry Serafini, page 35

2 beadworkmagazine.com

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72

6

123

100

65

18

Bead Crochet 10

Knotting 20

Bead Embroidery

Ladder Stitch 59, 112

Square Stitch 20, 52, 65, 104, 112, 120

stitch index Backstitch Bead Embroidery

15, 35, 68 Brick Stitch Brick-Stitch Edging 15, 35 Circular Brick Stitch 18, 108 Flat Brick Stitch 22 Tubular Brick Stitch 68

Chevron Chain Circular Chevron Chain 116 Flat Chevron Chain 52, 72, 116

Crimping 18 Fringe Basic Fringe 6, 20, 28,

42, 108 Leaf Fringe 39

Gem-Setting 62 Herringbone Stitch Circular Herringbone Stitch

32, 75, 100, 112

Loomwork 20 Netting Circular Netting 32, 52, 56, 84 Flat Netting 46, 48, 52, 78, 84 Tubular Netting 91

Peyote Stitch

St. Petersburg Stitch 42 Stringing 18, 88, 91, 123 Triangle Weave 68 Whipstitch 123 Wireworking 22, 96, 108, 123

Circular Peyote Stitch 25, 28,

52, 56, 59, 72, 75, 81, 100, 112 Flat Peyote Stitch 12, 18, 30,

32, 62, 65, 78, 88, 104, 112, 120 Tubular Peyote Stitch 6, 15, 35,

52, 59, 62, 65, 68, 72, 84, 88, 91, 96, 108, 116 Picot 15, 22, 32, 39, 62, 65, 68, 72, 84, 104 Right-Angle Weave Circular Right-Angle Weave 100 Flat Right-Angle Weave 46, 48,

104, 108

project rating Our three-level project rating system is found on the opening page of each project. BEGINNER LEVEL Quick and easy INTERMEDIATE LEVEL Moderate time commitment ADVANCED LEVEL Longer time commitment

Tubular Herringbone Stitch 91

BEADWORK Favorite Bead Stitches 3

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editor’s letter

Favorite presents

Find Your Favorites WHAT CRITERIA MUST A PROJECT MEET in order to be considered a favorite? Of course, this question doesn’t have just one answer! What makes one beader fall in love with a project may be the exact thing that makes another beader say, “No thanks.” When choosing this issue’s collection of 37 projects from past Beadwork issues, our editors kept taste differences in mind and picked our best, most-fun-to-bead designs in a variety of styles, a range of difficulty levels, and a large array of techniques—32, to be exact (yes, you read that right, 32!). Love bead embroidery? If so, try your hand at our gorgeous cover project, Ripple Effect (page 35), by bead-embroidery expert Sherry Serafini. Looking for an everyday style? Then start with my This & That bracelet (page 78), a quick project with casual style. Craving crystals? Go for Cynthia Rutledge’s irresistible Cascading Links Bracelet (page 62) or Carole Ohl’s sparkling Riviera Rivoli (page 112). Wanting to play with shaped beads? Try Tila beads in Hatsumi Oshitani’s Sleek in Silver (page 42) or in Heather Kahn’s Moroccan Tiles bracelet (page 120). From crystal elegance to casual chic, this collector’s issue is sure to have something you love. To choose your next project from our extensive list of 32 techniques, turn back to our handy Stitch Index on page 3.

Bead Stitches EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Danielle Fox EDITOR Melinda Barta SENIOR EDITOR Jean Campbell MANAGING EDITOR Linda Harty ASSISTANT EDITOR Megan Lenhausen PROJECT EDITOR Kate Wilson COPY EDITOR Liz McGehee BEADING DAILY EDITOR Jennifer VanBenschoten SENIOR DESIGNER Connie Poole SENIOR PRODUCTION DESIGNER Mark Dobroth PROJECT PHOTOGRAPHY Joe Coca, Ann Swanson ILLUSTRATION Bonnie Brooks ADVERTISING TEAM LEADER, BEAD & JEWELRY Marilyn C. Koponen [email protected], (877) 613-4613 ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVE Jennifer McIntosh [email protected], (877) 613-4634 AD TRAFFICKERS Melissa Marie Brown, Kathy Depperschmidt CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING Camille Vogt MARKETING MANAGER Corinne Zielke

FOUNDER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Linda Ligon VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Shahla Hebets VICE PRESIDENT, CONTENT Helen Gregory VICE PRESIDENT, MEDIA SALES Julie MacDonald DESIGN MANAGER Larissa Davis

Have fun,

SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER Nancy Pollock ONLINE CIRCULATION SPECIALIST Jodi Smith

Melinda Barta [email protected]

Follow Beadwork on Facebook: facebook.com/BeadingDailyonFB F+W MEDIA, INC.

HAPPENINGS * All New Quick + Easy Projects. Don’t miss our super-sized collection of all-new, easy-to-bead, and quick-to-make beadwoven designs: Quick + Easy Beadwork. Check your local bead shop and newsstand for this special issue October 7.

CHAIRMAN & CEO David Nussbaum COO & CFO James Ogle PRESIDENT Sara Domville CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER Chad Phelps SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS Phil Graham VICE PRESIDENT, ECOMMERCE Lucas Hilbert VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS Stacie Berger

* The Best in Shaped Beads. Visit shop.beadingdaily.com/ SuperduosandTwinseBook for our latest must-have eBook collection, Beadwork Presents Stitching with Shaped Beads: 10 Beaded Projects to Make with Superduos and Twins.

Beadwork® presents Favorite Bead Stitches is an annual special issue of Beadwork® (ISSN 1528-5634) and is published by Interweave, a division of F+W Media, Inc., 201 E. Fourth St., Loveland, CO 80537-5655. (970) 669-7672. All content of this issue of Beadwork® presents Favorite Bead Stitches are copyrighted by F+W Media, Inc., © 2014. All rights reserved. Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission of the publisher.

* Crazy for Kumihimo. Learn one of the hottest new beading techniques from expert Jill Wiseman in the newest addition to our Beadwork Designer of the Year DVD Series, Kumihimo with Beads. Available as a DVD or digital download at shop.beadingdaily.com/KumihimoDVD.

Beadwork® presents Favorite Bead Stitches does not recommend, approve, or endorse any of the advertisers, products, services, or views advertised within. Nor does Beadwork® presents Favorite Bead Stitches evaluate the advertisers’ claims in any way. You should, therefore, use your own judgment in evaluating the advertisers, products, services, and views advertised.

VISIT US ON THE WEB: beadingdaily.com • interweave.com • fwmedia.com


004 Editor's Letter-masthead_FBS14.indd 4

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Fusion Beads, Inc.

Where your jewelry begins. With over 7,000 Delica beads, Japanese seed beads and a wide array of essential tools and supplies, we have everything you need to stitch up stunning beadwoven creations.

FusionBeads.com Free US shipping

Glenda Paunonen

Shop for designer kits @ Checkerboard

www.beadsgonewild.com


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fire flower bracelet CAROLE OHL

Make separate flower components and link them together to form this pretty bracelet. Experiment with color to turn the flowers from sunflowers to daisies or asters.

back of bracelet

TECHNIQUES basic fringe tubular peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL See p. 3 for project-level information.

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1) FLOWERS. Weave flower components: Base: Place a tension bead at the end of

6' of thread. String one 8mm round and 10B; pass through the 8mm round. String 10B, allowing the seed beads to lay on the opposite side of the 8mm round. Pass through the 8mm round and the first set of 10B. Remove the tension bead and tie a square knot with the working and tail threads (Fig. 1, blue thread). Pass through the 8mm round and all the Bs, pulling them into a tight circle. Exit the third B away from the 8mm round’s holes (Fig. 1, red thread). Petals: String 1E (small end first) and 1A, then pass back through the E and through the next 2B of the base round; repeat around the base to add a total of 10 teardrop fringes. Exit from the first base B after the final fringe (Fig. 2). Back center (pearl fringe): String 1C and 1A, pass back through the C, and through the next 2 base Bs (Fig. 3); repeat around the base to add a total of 10 pearl fringes. Weave through beads to exit through the first A added in this round.

String 1B and pass through the A at the tip of the next pearl fringe; repeat around to connect all the pearl fringes into a circle (Fig. 4). Pull tight with each stitch so the beads snug around the 8mm round. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit 1B of the base round. Front center: String 1B, skip the next base B, and pass through the following one; repeat around to work peyote stitch around the base. Step up through the first B added in this round. Work a second round of peyote stitch, this time using 1A in each stitch (Fig. 5). Using firm tension, repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through the beadwork to exit 1A at the tip of a petal.

Fig. 1: Forming the base

Fig. 4: Connecting the pearl fringe

Fig. 2: Adding the petal fringe

MATERIALS 2 g bronze size 14° Japanese seed beads (A) 3 g matte green bronze iris size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 74 bronze 3mm crystal pearl rounds (C) 60 Siam 3mm crystal bicones (D) 60 dark topaz 5×7mm pressed-glass teardrops (E) 6 Siam or garnet 8mm crystal rounds 1 antique brass 9mm ball-and-socket clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 8"

Fig. 3: Adding pearls to the back of the flower

Fig. 5: Peyote-stitching the front

BEADWORK Favorite Bead Stitches


7

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a

b

Fig. 6: Adding the outer ring

Fig. 7: Connecting two flowers and the clasp

Outer ring: String 2A, 1D, and 2A, then

2) FLOWER CHAIN. Use the working

pass through the 1A at the tip of the next petal, pulling snug; repeat around to connect all the petal tips (Fig. 6). Repeat the thread path at least twice more to reinforce and pull the flower into a dome shape, down over the round of pearls. Exit between the first 2A added in this section. Set aside. Repeat this entire step five more times for a total of 6 flowers.

thread of 1 flower to string 1C; pass through the second A added in the outer ring of a second flower and the nearest 2A. String 1C; pass through the third A added in the outer ring of the first flower, toward the center. Repeat the thread path at least twice to reinforce, connecting the 2 flowers (Fig. 7a). Secure the thread and trim, or, if the thread is long enough, weave through beads to exit from the outer ring of the second flower, directly opposite the connection just formed. Repeat this step to join each flower. 3) CLASP. Weave the working thread of an

For a darker bracelet, make the flowers with iridescent bronze teardrops, Pacific opal 8mm rounds, olive seed beads, and jonquil AB bicones.

end flower to exit directly opposite the last connection. String 1C, 1B, and one half of the clasp; pass back through the B. String 1C; pass through the middle 3A at the end of the final flower (Fig. 7b). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this step at the other end of the bracelet. ✦

Artist’s Tips • To get a teardrop to sit flush to the circle of seed beads, pull on the size 14° at the tip of the petal with one hand as you pull your working thread with the other hand, just after adding the teardrop.

Editors’ Tip Feel free to use glass 3mm rounds in place of the crystal pearls. Since these beads are hidden by the petals, this is one place you can easily make some pennysaving substitutions.

CAROLE OHL lives in Dayton, Ohio, where she has been a freelance graphic designer since 1980. She has been beading since 2005 and has always wanted to make sculptural flowers. When she started playing with mandalas and found the teardrops in her stash, it was her “little bead dream come true,” and this project was born. Carole teaches her designs at her local bead store, The Bead Cage, in Kettering, Ohio, and sells many of her design patterns online at www.bead-patterns.com. Contact Carole at [email protected]. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Teardrops: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com. Seed beads: Charlene’s Beads, (760) 530-9436, www.cbbeads .com. FireLine braided beading thread and Swarovski crystal pearls and bicones: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

• The more passes of thread you can make in the outer circle, the more stable the flower will be. Keep in mind, however, you will still need to be able to stitch through those beads when assembling the components. • Use one flower to create a pendant to complement your bracelet.

8

beadworkmagazine.com


2/26/14 1:38 PM

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diamonds squared LINDA LEHMAN

This eye-catching square bangle worked in bead crochet keeps its geometric shape without the use of an armature. Be sure to make the bangle large enough so that it won’t get stretched when put on.

Online Bonus! TECHNIQUE bead crochet See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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Download Bead Crochet Basics, an in-depth how-to feature on getting started with bead crochet, at www .tinyurl.com/BeadCrochetBasics. Let Bonnie Brooks teach you one stitch at a time with step-by-step photos.

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1) PRESTRING. Place the big-eye needle

about 6" from the end of the crochet thread and string the following bead sequence: Round 1: 1B, 7A Round 2: 2B, 6A Round 3: 1B, 1A, 1B, 5A Round 4: 1B, 2A, 1B, 4A Round 5: 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 4A Round 6: 2A, 1B, 1C, 4A Round 7: 2A, 1C, 1B, 1C, 3A Round 8: 2A, 1C, 2A, 1C, 2A Round 9: 3A, 1C, 1D, 1B, 2A Round 10: 4A, 1D, 1C, 2A Round 11: 4A, 1D, 1C, 1D, 1A Round 12: 4A, 1D, 2A, 1D Round 13: 5A, 1D, 1A, 1D Round 14: 6A, 2D Round 15: 7A, 1D Rounds 16–31: 8A Round 32: 7A Repeat the entire stringing sequence three times. Don’t cut the thread. 2) CROCHET. Begin with a slipknot and, leaving a 12" tail, work a total of 8 chain stitches with 1 bead in each stitch. Join the chain into a circle by passing the hook through the first chain, under the first bead added. Continue working in slip stitch, adding 1 bead in each stitch for a total of 8 beads in each round.

When you’ve finished crocheting the beads, trim the working thread to 12". Bring the thread through the loop on the hook and tighten the loop. Place the tapestry needle on the thread, secure the thread in the rope, and trim. 3) INVISIBLE JOIN. Place the tapestry

needle on the tail thread at the rope’s start. Bring the rope’s ends close together, positioning the first bead in the chain-stitch round next to the last bead in the final round. Pass under the thread next to the last bead in the final round and turn the bead so the hole is now pointing toward the beads at the opposite end of the rope. Pass under the thread exiting the corresponding bead on the opposite end (Fig. 1). Repeat seven times to turn and connect each of the 8 beads on the final round with the beads on the starting round (Fig. 2). Tighten the thread gently so the beads form a continuous rope with no sign of the join. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ LINDA LEHMAN has been knitting and crocheting for most of her life and introduced beads into her work in 2002. She is the author of Bead Crochet Jewelry (Schiffer Publishing, 2004) and now publishes and sells her knitting and bead crochet patterns at www. wearableartemporium.etsy.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Glass seed beads and big-eye needles: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyond beadery.com. Metal seed beads: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Flora and Lizbeth #20 crochet cotton: Handy Hands Tatting, (217) 379-3802, www .hhtatting.com. Susan Bates crochet hook: Knitting Warehouse, (831) 728-2584, www.knitting-ware house.com.

MATERIALS 20 g bronze olivine iris size 11° seed beads (A) 5 g each metal size 8° seed beads in brass (B), matte copper (C), and antique zinc (D) Brown size 20 crochet cotton thread

TOOLS Big-eye beading needle Scissors Size 8 (1.4mm) steel crochet hook Thin tapestry needle FINISHED SIZE: 8"

Sizing Guide Alter the fit of the bangle with the following changes: • To increase the size of the bangle by ½", increase the number of rounds to 34, stringing 8A in Rounds 17–34. • To increase the size by 1", increase the number of rounds to 36, stringing 8A in Rounds 16–35 and 9A in Round 36. • To increase by 1½", increase the number of rounds to 38, stringing 8A in Rounds 16–37 and 10A in Round 38. • To decrease the size by ½", work Rounds 16–29 with 8A as before, but decrease the number of beads in Round 30 to 6A and eliminate Rounds 31 and 32.

Fig. 1: Starting the invisible join

Fig. 2: Finishing the invisible join


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crystal squares bracelet ELEONORE PIEPER

Square windows, left open or embellished with clear crystals, are made using a combination of one- and three-drop flat peyote stitch in this contemporary cuff.

TECHNIQUE flat peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BODY. Alternate one- and three-drop

peyote stitch to create windows: Rows 1 and 2: Use a comfortable length of thread to string 33A, leaving a 6" tail (Fig. 1, green thread). Row 3: String 1A, skip 1A from the previous row, and pass back through the next A, then string 1A, skip 1A from the previous row, and pass back through the next 3A; repeat four times. String 1A, skip 1A from the previous row, and pass back through the next A. String 1A and tie a knot with the tail and working thread to secure the row. Pass back through the last A strung (Fig. 1, blue thread). Row 4: Work 1 stitch with 1A and work 1 stitch with 3A; repeat four times. Work 1 stitch with 1A (Fig. 1, red thread). Row 5: Work 1 stitch with 1A, then work another stitch with 1A, treating the 3A from the previous row as 1 bead; repeat four times. Work 1 stitch with 1A. String 1A, pass through the nearest edge A, and weave through beads to pass back through the A just added, forming an odd-count turnaround (Fig. 2).

Row 6, Segment 1: Work 1 stitch with 1A,

MATERIALS

1 stitch with 3A, then 1 stitch with 1A (Fig. 3, purple thread). Row 7, Segment 1: Work 1 stitch with 1A, 1 stitch with 1A (treating the 3A from the previous row as 1 bead), and 1 stitch with 1A. String 1A, pass through the nearest edge A, and weave through beads to pass back through the A just added (Fig. 3, green thread). Row 8, Segment 1: Repeat Row 6 (Fig. 3, blue thread). Row 9, Segment 1: Repeat Row 7. Weave through beads to exit the next up bead of Row 5 (Fig. 3, red thread). Segments 2 and 3: Beginning with Row 6, repeat Segment 1. Repeat again, this time finishing by weaving through beads to exit from the first A added in Row 9 of the third segment, toward the work. Row 10: Work 1 stitch with 1A, 1 stitch with 3A, and 1 stitch with 1A, then string 3A, and pass through the nearest edge A in the next segment to form a “window”; repeat once. Work 1 stitch with 1A, 1 stitch with 3A, and 1 stitch with 1A (Fig. 4).

20 g matte bright gold metallic size 11° cylinder beads (A) 49 crystal golden shadow 4mm crystal bicones (B) Crystal 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 7½"

Artist’s Tips • Since no clasp is required, the cuff needs to be large enough to slip over your hand. To increase the size, repeat Rows 6–21 a thirteenth time before working Rows 6–16 at the end of Step 1. • For a bracelet with more sparkle, embellish every window with a crystal.

Fig. 1: Stitching Rows 1–4

Fig. 2: Adding Row 5

Fig. 3: Adding Rows 6–9, Segment 1

Fig. 4: Stitching Row 10 to connect the segments



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Row 11: Repeat Row 5. Row 12: Repeat Row 4. Row 13: Repeat Row 5. Row 14, Segment 1: Work 1 stitch with 1A. Row 15, Segment 1: Work 2 stitches with

1A, forming an odd-count turnaround on the second stitch as before. Rows 16 and 17, Segment 1: Repeat Rows 14 and 15. Weave through beads to exit from the next up bead of Row 13 (Fig. 5). Segments 2 and 3: Repeat Rows 6–9 of Segment 1 twice. Segment 4: Repeat Rows 14–17 of Segment 1. Weave through beads to exit from the first A added in Row 17 of Segment 4, toward the work. Row 18: Work 1 stitch with 1A. String 3A, pass through the nearest edge A in the next segment, work 1 stitch with 1A, work 1 stitch with 3A, and 1 stitch with 1A; repeat once. String 3A, pass through the nearest edge A in the next segment, then work 1A. Row 19: Work 12 stitches with 1A, treating the 3A from the previous row as 1 bead. Row 20: Work 1 stitch with 1A and 1 stitch with 3A; repeat four times. Work 1 stitch with 1A. Row 21: Repeat Row 19 (Fig. 6). Repeat Rows 6–21 twelve times. Repeat Rows 6–16 once. Secure the thread and trim. 2) CRYSTALS. Slide a needle to the center of an 8' thread so it’s doubled. Anchor the thread to the beadwork so it exits from the bottom right A of one of the windows. String 1B and pass through the upper left A of the same window. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the bottom right A of the nearest window (Fig. 7). Repeat to add 1B to windows in a diamond pattern as shown in Fig. 7, or in any pattern desired. 3) ZIP. Fold the beadwork so the first and last rows touch, with the segments lining up to form 3 windows. Zip the beads together to form a seamless tube. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1

16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2

Fig. 5: Completing Rows 14–17, Segment 1

21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1

20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2

Fig. 6: Completing Rows 18–21

Fig. 7: Adding the bicone embellishments

ELEONORE PIEPER has worked with glass and silver since 1992. She designs jewelry as a hobby, mostly making pieces for friends while capturing their unique styles and preferences, or creating objects for special occasions, such as weddings. Her inspiration comes from objects and ornaments seen while traveling the world.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski bicones and FireLine braided beading thread: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. Delica cylinder beads: Beads East, (860) 649-2323, www.beadseast.com.



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royal medallions KELLI BURNS

TECHNIQUES backstitch bead embroidery tubular peyote stitch brick-stitch edging picot See p. 126 for helpful technique information.

PROJEC T LEVEL

Creating a bezel for each of these 12mm rivolis is quick and easy. The first round of seed beads is worked into a foundation using bead embroidery, making the rounds of peyote that follow a cinch. Vary the bracelet by using all gold or all silver medallions, or make enough medallions for a fashionable necklace or belt.

See p. 3 for project-level information.

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MATERIALS 14 matte gray size 15° seed beads 1 g each size 15° seed beads in silver-lined aqua, silver-lined pink, silver-lined ruby, amethyst luster, and opaque salmon 1 g each size 11° cylinder beads in galvanized gold, matte gold, light gray, and dark gray 4 g 24k gold size 11° cylinder beads 4 g galvanized gold iris size 11° seed beads 3 g dark gray size 11° seed beads 1 g dark gray size 8° triangles 4 g matte gold size 8° triangles 5 crystal 12mm rivolis in aqua, salmon padparadscha, amethyst, Siam, and fuchsia 1 sterling silver 14mm toggle clasp 4 gold-filled 4mm 20-gauge jump rings 1 sterling silver 4mm 20-gauge jump ring 1 sterling silver 6mm 18-gauge jump ring 4 gold 5×6mm soldered oval rings 6 sterling silver 5×6mm soldered oval rings 10" square of white Lacy’s Stiff Stuff beading foundation 10" square of dark brown Ultrasuede Size D nylon beading thread to match beads E6000 adhesive Beeswax (optional)

TOOLS Plastic circle template Pen Scissors Size 12 beading needles 2 pairs of chain-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 8½"

16

Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1–4 of the bezel

1) BASE. Cut a 2" square of foundation and use the template to trace a 25mm circle in the center. Apply a small amount of adhesive to the back of the aqua rivoli and place it on the center of the 25mm circle on the foundation. Allow to dry overnight. 2) BEZEL. Tie a knot at the end of 3' of

conditioned thread and pass up through the foundation right next to the rivoli. Round 1: Use galvanized gold cylinder beads to work a round of backstitch along the pen line. Make sure that the round has an even number of beads. Exit from the first bead added in the round. Rounds 2–4: Use galvanized gold cylinder beads to work 3 rounds of tubular peyote stitch (Fig. 1). Pass through the last round again to reinforce and snug the beads around the top edge of the rivoli. Secure the thread and trim.

Fig. 2: Backstitching beads onto the foundation

3) EMBROIDERY AND BACKING. Tie a

knot at the end of 3' of thread. Pass up through the foundation next to the first bezel round. Embroidery rounds: Work 3 circles of backstitch: the inner circle with matte gold cylinder beads, the middle with galvanized gold cylinder beads, and the outer with gold triangles (Fig. 2). Secure the thread and trim. Backing: Carefully trim the foundation along the outer pen line, taking care to avoid snipping stitches. Cut a 2½" square of Ultrasuede. Glue it to the back of the foundation and allow to dry overnight. Carefully trim to match the foundation circle. 4) EDGING. Tie a knot at the end of 3' of thread. Stitch through the foundation, hiding the knot between the fabric layers. Use gold iris size 11°s to work brick stitch around the edge, making sure to capture both circles with each stitch (Fig. 3). Work about 20 gold iris beads to reach halfway



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around the circle, and string 1 gold soldered ring between the next 2 stitches. Continue in regular brick stitch around the rest of the circle. When you almost meet the first bead added in the round, check that you have an even number of beads and adjust accordingly. Make the final stitch and string a second gold soldered ring as you stitch together the first and last beads of the round (Fig. 4). Exit up through the first bead of the round. Don’t trim the thread. 5) PICOTS. String 3 aqua size 15°s. Pass

down through the next edge bead and up through the following (Fig. 5). Repeat around to add picots around the circle. Secure the thread and trim.

Siam medallion: Start with a 24mm circle.

7) ASSEMBLY. Use the gold jump rings to

Use the Siam rivoli for the center; light gray cylinder beads for the bezel, with one additional round of dark gray size 15°s; 1 round of gray size 11°s, 1 round of light gray cylinder beads, and 1 round of gray size 11°s for the embroidery rounds; gray size 11°s and silver soldered rings for the edging; and ruby size 15°s for the picots. Fuchsia medallion: Start with a 20mm circle. Use the fuchsia rivoli for the center; light gray cylinder beads for the bezel; 1 round of gray triangles and 1 round of gray size 11°s for the embroidery rounds; gray size 11°s and silver soldered rings for the edging; and pink size 15°s for the picots.

connect the soldered rings on the medallions in the following order: padparadscha, amethyst, Siam, aqua, and fuchsia. Use the silver 4mm jump ring to attach the fuchsia medallion to the clasp ring; use the silver 6mm jump ring to attach the padparadscha medallion to the clasp bar. ✦ KELLI BURNS has been beading since 2001 and owns The Hole Bead Shoppe in Bartlesville, Oklahoma. On any given day or night, you can find Kelli talking about beads, plotting new beading strategies, or sketching in her idea book. Reach her at www.theholebeadshoppe.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: All beads and findings: The Hole Bead Shoppe, (918) 338-2444, www.theholebead shoppe.com. Template: Check your local craft or office supply stores.

6) FINISHING. Repeat Steps 1–5 four

times in the following colorways for a total of 5 medallions: Padparadscha medallion: Start with a 20mm circle. Use the padparadscha rivoli for the center; dark gray cylinder beads for the bezel; 1 round of gray triangles and 1 round of gray size 11°s for the embroidery rounds; gray size 11°s and silver soldered rings for the edging; and salmon size 15°s for the picots. Amethyst medallion: Start with a 24mm circle. Use the amethyst rivoli for the center; matte gold cylinder beads for the bezel; 1 round of gold triangles and 2 rounds of matte gold cylinder beads for the embroidery rounds; gold iris size 11°s and gold soldered rings for the edging; and amethyst size 15°s for the picots.

Fig. 3: Creating the edging

Fig. 4: Adding a soldered ring to the edging

Fig. 5: Forming the picots



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peyote sunburst JENNIFER VanBENSCHOTEN

Create delicate flowers in peyote stitch and simple fringe around a single round of circular brick stitch. Transparent seed beads, crystal pearls, and lustrous pressed-glass rounds evoke the elegant vintage piece that originally inspired this easy design.

TECHNIQUES circular brick stitch flat peyote stitch stringing crimping See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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FLOWERS 1) BASE RING. Use 5' of conditioned

thread to string one 8mm pearl, leaving a 5" tail. Pass through the pearl two more times and position one thread on each side of the pearl (Fig. 1). Holding the tail tight, string 2A. Pass under a thread on the outside of the pearl and back through the second A just strung (Fig. 2). Continue working brick stitch around the pearl until you’ve added a total of 17A. After adding the last A, pass down through the first A and up through the last A to complete the ring (Fig. 3). 2) PEYOTE PETALS. Use peyote stitch

and B to work petals that attach to the base ring: Rows 1 and 2: String 8B. Row 3: Pass back through the second-tolast bead strung. Work 1B in each stitch, pulling the work tight against the base ring. Pass down through the next base ring A; pass up through the first A exited to exit the second B strung (Fig. 4). Row 4: Work 2 stitches using 1B in each. Pass through the 2 beads at the tip of the petal. Row 5: Work 2 stitches using 1B in each. Exit the next base ring A (Fig. 5). Repeat this entire step for a total of 9 petals. Note: Since the base ring has an uneven number of beads (17A), adjust the

Fig. 1: Positioning thread on each side of the pearl

Fig. 2: Adding 2A to form the beginning of the base ring

final stitch in the last petal: When you make the turnaround to start the fourth row, pass down through the same A you exited, pass under the base-ring thread “bridge” between 2 base-ring beads instead of the next A in the base row; pass up through the exited A to continue working the petal. 3) FRINGE PETALS. Exit an A bead

between peyote petals and add a fringe petal using A: String 9A; pass back through the second-to-last bead strung. String 6A; pass back through the first bead strung. Pull the beads snug to the base. Pass down through the next A to the right and up through the following A (Fig. 6). Repeat entire step for a total of 9 fringe petals. Adjust to finish the last fringe petal as you did for the last peyote petal. Secure the thread and trim close to the work. Repeat Steps 1–3 for a total of 5 flowers. Set aside.

TOOLS

FINISHING

Scissors Size 10 beading needle Crimping pliers Wire cutters

4) STRINGING. Attach the beading wire

FINISHED SIZE: 19"

to one half of the clasp using a crimp tube. Cover the tube with a crimp cover. String {1 copper round, 1 silver round, 1 nugget, 1 oval, 1 nugget, and 1 silver round} twice. String {1 aspirin bead, 1 silver round, 1 nugget, 1 oval, 1 nugget, and 1 silver round} three times. String 1 aspirin bead.

Fig. 3: Working brick stitch to create the base ring

Fig. 4: Working Row 3 of a peyote petal

Fig. 6: Adding a fringe petal

Fig. 5: Working Row 5 of a peyote petal Fig. 7: Stringing a flower

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MATERIALS 8 g transparent luster dark golden rose size 11° Japanese cylinder beads (A) 8 g silver-lined peridot size 11° Japanese cylinder beads (B) 8 copper AB 6mm vintage crystal “aspirin” beads 5 bronze 8mm crystal round pearls 20 champagne 4mm vintage pressed-glass nuggets 12 olivine 4mm fire-polished rounds 10 copper luster 6mm fire-polished rounds 10 transparent light green 8×9mm vintage German pressed-glass dimpled ovals 32 sterling silver 3mm rounds 1 sterling silver 8mm box clasp 2 sterling silver 2mm crimp tubes 2 sterling silver 4mm crimp covers Nymo size D beading thread to match cylinder beads 22" of .014 beading wire Thread conditioner or beeswax

String {1 silver round, 1 olivine round, 1 copper round, 1 olivine round, 1 silver round, and 1 flower} twice, passing through the pearl and arranging the beadwork so it’s all on one side of the pearl (Fig. 7). String 1 silver round, 1 olivine round, 1 copper round, 1 olivine round, and 1 silver round. String 1 flower and repeat entire step, reversing the stringing sequence and attaching the wire to the other half of the clasp. ✦ JENNIFER VANBENSCHOTEN lives in the Adirondack Mountains of New York State with her husband, son, and various critters. You can see more of her work at www.shop.vanbeads.etsy.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: All vintage beads: The Beadin’ Path, (877) 922-3237, www.beadinpath.com. All other beads and findings: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.


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shimmering tapestry MICHELE ANDERSON

This bracelet was inspired by a needlepoint pattern for a dollhouse hallway runner. When Michele saw the shape, she immediately pictured a loomed bracelet with fringe on the ends. Then cylinder beads came to mind for their smooth, even fit.

TECHNIQUES loomwork knotting basic fringe square stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BASE. Follow the manufacturer’s direc-

tions to string the loom with 26 warp threads long enough to allow for fringe. Use a single thread as long as is comfortable and the size 10 needle, following Chart A for 7¼". Weave in the weft threads. Note: The pattern shown allows for a 7⅜" finished base, which includes a ⅜" hem on each end; add or subtract rows as necessary to reach the desired length. 2) FRINGE. Trim the warp threads close to

the loom, leaving them as long as possible. Starting at the bottom side of the base, use square knots to tie the warp threads into 13 pairs. Repeat on the other end of the base. Thread one of the 13 pairs onto the big-eye needle and string 9–13 size 15°s, 1 accent bead, and 1 size 15°. Make an overhand knot at the end of the thread to secure the beads; use the tapestry needle to get the knot as close to the bead as possible. Tie another overhand knot to keep the beads from slipping (Fig. 1). Trim the thread and glue the knot. Repeat to create a fringe on each pair of knotted threads on both ends of the bracelet. 3) HEM. Fold one end of the base onto

itself to form a ⅜" hem. Use 3' of thread to tack the hem to the base in four places.

Repeat at the opposite end, folding in the same direction as before; do not trim the thread. 4) EMBELLISHMENT. Use the hem thread

to stitch accent beads to the top of one of the hems. Pass through the beads several times to reinforce, or glue in place. Repeat for the other hem. 5) CLASP LOOPS. Start 3' of thread at one end of the base that exits from the hem’s fold between the eighth and ninth cylinder beads. Work square stitch until you have a column 2 beads wide by 6 beads long. String 22 size 15°s and pass down through the opposite column from which you last exited to form a loop (Fig. 2). Pass through all the beads to reinforce. Weave across the same row of cylinder beads to exit between the twentieth and twenty-first beads and repeat for a second clasp loop. Secure the thread and trim. 6) CLASP BUTTONS. Start a new thread at the other end of the base that exits from the hem’s fold between the eighth and ninth cylinder beads. *Work a column of square stitch 2 beads wide by 3 beads long. String 1 burgundy 4mm bicone, 1 bead cap, 1 bronze faceted rondelle, and 1 size 15°. Skip the size 15° and pass back

MATERIALS 2 g gold size 15° Japanese seed beads 12 g metallic gold size 11° cylinder beads 5 g mixed purple iris and forest iris size 11° cylinder beads 2 metallic bronze 6×8mm glass faceted rondelles 2 burgundy 4mm crystal bicones Assortment of 4–10mm accent beads in various shapes and colors to complement cylinder beads 2 bronze 8mm round bead caps with granulated star pattern Black beading thread G-S Hypo Cement

TOOLS Scissors Beading loom to accommodate 26 warp threads and 13" of weft Size 10 beading needle Big-eye needle Tapestry needle or T-pin FINISHED SIZE: 7¼ × 1½"

through all the beads just strung and into the opposite column from which you last exited (Fig. 3). Pass through all the beads to reinforce. Weave across the same row of cylinder beads and exit between the twentieth and twenty-first cylinder beads. Repeat for a second clasp button. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ MICHELE ANDERSON has been a bead artist and instructor since 2000. She teaches bead embroidery and knitting with beads at Stitcher’s Crossing in Madison, Wisconsin. Her studio is in Benton, Wisconsin. Visit her website, www .beadedcottagestudio.etsy.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Cylinder and accent beads: FusionBeads .com, (888) 781-3559.

Fig. 1: Creating the fringe

Fig. 2: Forming the clasp loops

Fig. 3: Adding the clasp buttons

Chart A


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summertime blues H E AT H E R K A H N

No matter what the season or the weather, you’ll enjoy wearing Heather’s scalloped necklace of brick-stitch crystals in the richest shades of blue.

TECHNIQUES flat brick stitch picot wireworking

PROJECT VARIATION

See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) FANS. Form 5 fans with brick stitch

using crystal rounds as the base: Row 1: Use 3' of thread to string one 6mm

round; pass through twice so 2 threads are resting along the side of the crystal round. Knot the tail and working threads; pull the working thread until the knot is inside the round (Fig. 1). String 2A; pass under the exposed thread on the crystal round and back through the last 1A strung to form a brick stitch. String 1A, pass under the exposed thread, and pass back through the 1A to form a second brick stitch (Fig. 2); repeat five times for a total of 7 stitches. Row 2: String 2B; pass under the exposed thread loop between the next 2A of Row 1 and back through the last 1B

strung to form a brick stitch. String 1B, pass under the thread loop of the next 2A, and pass back through the 1B to form another brick stitch; repeat six times for a total of 8 stitches (Fig. 3). Note: The last 2 stitches will be attached to the same loop from the previous row. Row 3: Repeat Row 2 with C, making 9 stitches. Row 4: Repeat Row 2 with D, making 10 stitches. Picots: String 1B, 1E, 1B; pass down through the next 1D and up through the next 1D (Fig. 4). Repeat along the edge of the fan for a total of 5 picots. Secure the threads and trim. Repeat this entire step four times for a total of 5 fans.

MATERIALS 1 g metallic deep-blue size 11° cylinder beads (A) 1 g metallic deep-blue-iris-lined crystal size 11° seed beads (B) 2 g cobalt iris 8° seed beads (C) 4 g matte metallic-lined sapphire size 8° triangle beads (D) 33 sapphire 3mm crystal bicones (E) 2 sapphire 4mm crystal rounds 5 sapphire 6mm crystal rounds 1 silver 14×38mm decorative hook-and-loop clasp 12½" of silver 4×8mm oval filigree chain 5" of sterling silver 22-gauge wire Blue nylon beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles Chain- or flat-nose pliers Round-nose pliers Wire cutters FINISHED SIZE: 19½"

Fig. 1: Pulling the knot inside the crystal

Fig. 2: Beginning the first row of brick stitch

Option For a coordinating bracelet, create two 5-fan strips and connect their 6mm crystal rounds using right-angle weave, 3mm crystal rounds, and cylinder beads. Partial fans add a decorative element to the clasp ends. Fig. 3: Forming the second row

Fig. 4: Adding picots



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Artist’s Tip Because the beads increase in size from one row to the next, allow your thread tension to be slightly loose when stitching the larger beads so the work remains flat. If you notice your work starting to curl at the edges, ease up on your tension. 2) ASSEMBLY. Cut the chain into 2 pieces, each 6¼" long. Set aside. Secure 2' of thread to 1 fan, exiting the first 1C in Row 3. String 1B and one end of 1 piece of chain; pass back through the 1B just added. Pass through the first 1C, 1B, 1A, 6mm round, 1A, 1B, and 1C along the top edge of the fan. *String 1B, 1E, 1D, 1E, and 1B; pass through 1C, 1B, 1A, 6mm round, 1A, 1B, and 1C of the next fan (Fig. 5). Repeat from * three times to connect all 5 fans.

Fig. 5: Attaching the fans to the chain

String 1B and one end of the remaining piece of chain; pass back through the last 1B exited. Repeat the entire thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Use 2½" of wire to form a wrapped loop that attaches to one half of the clasp; string one 4mm round and form a wrapped loop that attaches to the free end of one of the pieces of chain. Repeat using the other half of the clasp and the other piece of chain. ✦

HEATHER KAHN grew up beading at her parents’ bead business, Caravan Beads. She recently launched her own line of costume-inspired jewelry with her business partner, Jeff Witkavitch. Their otherworldly products can be seen at Chrononaut Mercantile, www .chrononautmercantile.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Miyuki seed beads, Swarovski crystals, C-Lon beading thread, Delica cylinder beads, and all other materials: Caravan Beads, (800) 230-8941, www.caravanbeads.net.

Make it, wear it, love it! Fall in love with the must-make jewelry designs featured in season 1900 of Beads, Baubles, and Jewels. With 13 information-packed episodes (over 6 full hours) this DVD set has the skills, expert tips, jewelry making know-hows, and trends delivered directly to you from Jean Campbell, Jen VanBenschoten, Candie Cooper, and more!

Learn when to watch at beadsbaublesandjewels.com or get all 13 episodes on a 4-dic DVD set at: shop.beadingdaily.com/BBJ1900

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winter solstice MARCIE CARROLL

Tiny beaded stars are created individually, then woven together to create the look of vintage filigree.

Artist’s Tips • Use the smallest needle that you are comfortable with, since you’ll be making multiple passes through the size 15° beads. • Be sure to use a thread color that matches the color of the A beads. • You can create a pendant out of one filigree component or link a few of the small star components together to create festive earrings. The possibilities and color combinations are endless!

TECHNIQUE circular peyote stitch variation See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS

1) SMALL STAR. Work circular peyote stitch to form a small star: Round 1: Use 18" of thread to string 6B; pass through all 6B again to form a circle and exit through the second B strung (Fig. 1, black thread). Round 2: String 1A and pass through the next B of Round 1; repeat five times to add a total of 6A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 1, orange thread). Round 3: String 1A, 1B, 1A and pass through the next A of Round 1; repeat five times to add a total of 12A and 6B. Step up through the first 1A/1B added in this round (Fig. 1, green thread). Round 4: String 2A, 1B, 2A and pass through the next B of Round 1; repeat five times to add a total of 24A and 6B (Fig. 1, blue thread). Pass through the first 2A added in this round, skip the first B, pass through the next 2A, and pass through the following B from the previous round; repeat five times to force all the B in this round to come to a point (Fig. 1, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. Set the star aside. Note: Don’t tie knots between beads along the outside of the star; the bead holes here need to remain open so you can pass your needle through them again later. Repeat this entire step twenty-three times for a total of 24 gunmetal/gold stars. Then repeat six times for a total of 6 gold/clear stars, this time using 4' of thread, substituting the C for B and keeping the working thread intact.

6 g matte gunmetal size 15° seed beads (A) 6 g light gold metallic size 11° Czech seed beads (B) 1 g silver-lined clear size 11° Czech seed beads (C) Black size D nylon beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 or 13 beading needle

FINISHED SIZE: 7"

Fig. 1: Stitching a small star

3

2

3

1

4

5

6

Fig. 2: Forming the inner connections of the large star

2) LARGE STAR. Stitch 7 small stars together to form a large star: Inner Connection 1: Weave the working thread of 1 gunmetal/clear star through beads to exit a point C (this is the inner star). String 1A and pass through a point B of 1 gunmetal/gold star (Star 1). String 1A and pass through a point B of another gunmetal/gold star (Star 2). String 1A and pass through the C originally exited on the inner star. Weave through beads to exit the next point B of Star 2 (Fig. 2, green thread). Inner Connection 2: String 1A and pass through a point B of another star (Star 3). String 1A and pass through the next C of the inner star. String 1A and pass through the nearest B of Star 2. Weave through beads to exit the next point B of Star 3 (Fig. 2, blue thread). Inner Connections 3–6: Add 3 more gunmetal/gold stars around the inner star in the same fashion as Inner Connection 2. Weave through beads on the outside edge of Star 1 to exit the outer point B where Stars 1 and 2 touch (Fig. 2, red thread). Outer Connection 1: String 1A, 1B, and 1A and pass through the nearest B bead of Star 2, then string 1A and pass through the last B exited on Star 1. Weave through the outer edge beads to exit from the B where Stars 1 and 6 touch (Fig. 3, blue thread).

2

1

4

5

6

Fig. 3: Stitching the outer connections of the large star



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Outer Connection 2: String 1A and pass

through the nearest B of Star 6. String 1A, 1B, and 1A and pass through the last B exited on Star 1. Weave through the outer edge beads to exit from the B where Stars 6 and 5 touch (Fig. 3, red thread). Outer Connections 3–6: Connect the remaining stars in the same fashion as Outer Connection 2. Don’t trim the working thread; set aside. Repeat this entire step three times for a total of 4 large stars. 3) ASSEMBLY. Lay 2 large stars next to each other so the working threads each point up. Use the working thread of the first star to *string 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass through the nearest point B of the second star. String 1A, 1B, and 1A and pass through the last B exited on the first star (Fig. 4, blue thread). Repeat the thread path to reinforce, but this time pass only through the A so that the B are forced to come to a point, as in Step 1. Weave through the outside edge of the first star to exit the B where the 2 large stars meet next (Fig. 4, red thread). Repeat from * to connect the two stars at this second point. Secure this working thread and trim. Repeat this entire step to connect the remaining large stars to one another in a straight line. 4) CLASP LOOPS. Weave the working

thread of the final large star through beads to exit one of the end point B. String 32A; pass through the last B exited and the 32A just added. Weave through beads to exit from the other point B at the end of the final star and create a loop as before (Fig. 5). Secure the thread and trim. 5) CLASP STARS. Weave the working

thread of one of the remaining gunmetal/ clear stars through beads to exit Round 1. String 2A and pass through one of the point B at the end of the first star (opposite the loops). String 2A and pass through the last C exited. Repeat the thread path to

Fig. 4: Connecting the large stars

Fig. 5: Adding the clasp loops

Fig. 6: Adding the first clasp star

reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step to add another A/C star to the other point B at the end of the bracelet (Fig. 6). ✦ MARCIE CARROLL is a self-taught beader living in Wilmington, North Carolina. She likes to design organically, letting the beads determine the shape and overall look of her designs. When she’s not beading, she can be found spending time with her family, her greatest support and source of inspiration. Visit www.labellajoya.blogspot.com for more of Marcie’s designs. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Nymo nylon beading thread and size 15° beads: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. Gold beads: Beadaholique, (866) 834-4618, www .beadaholique.com. Clear beads: Michaels, (800) 642-4235, www.michaels.com.



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arabesque bracelet JULIE WALKER

Weave crystals into a Victorian-style chain that sparkles and shines.

MAIN COLORWAY

Bead your own clasp!

TECHNIQUES basic fringe circular peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) CHAIN. Stitch embellished fringe units

to form the body of the bracelet: Unit 1, Round 1: Use 7' of thread to string

4B, leaving a 2' tail. Pass through the beads again to form a circle, exiting through the first B strung. Unit 1, Round 2: String 1E and 1B, then pass back through the E just strung and the next B in Round 1; repeat three times to add a total of 4 fringes. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1). Unit 1, Round 3: String 5A and pass through the nearest B of Round 1. Pass back through the last 2A just added. String 3A and pass through the next B of Round 2 (at the fringe tip). Repeat to add a total of 32A, outlining the bicones added in Round 2 (Fig. 2). Weave through beads to exit any B of Round 1. Center: String 1A, 1C, and 1A; skip 1B in Round 1 and pass through the following B, exiting from the back side of the unit (Fig. 3). Turn the work over and string 1A, 1D, and 1A; skip 1B in Round 1 and pass back through the following B. Weave through beads to exit any B of Round 2. Rondelle: String 1K and 1B, pass back through the K, and pass through the last B exited in Round 2 so the rondelle is centered over it. Pass through the K and B just added (Fig. 4). Unit 2: String 1F and 4B; pass through the 4B again to form a circle as in Unit 1, Round 1, exiting the first B added

Fig. 1: Adding Round 2 in Unit 1

(Fig. 5, blue thread). String 1G and 1B; pass back through the G and the next B added in this section. String 1H and 1B; pass back through the H and the following B added in this section. String 1I and 1B; pass back through the I and the first B added in this section. Weave through beads to exit from the B at the tip of the F fringe (Fig. 5, red thread). Repeat the instructions for the Round 3, center, and rondelle sections of Unit 1 to complete this unit. Units 3–9: Repeat Unit 2 seven times for a total of 9 units; when working Round 2, alternate units made with all E and units made with a mix of F, G, H, I, and J. 2) CLASP LOOP. Work two-drop circular

peyote stitch to form a clasp loop: Rounds 1 and 2: String 26B; pass through the last B added in Unit 9. Round 3: Work circular peyote stitch with 2A in each stitch for a total of 14A (Fig. 6). Repeat entire thread path to reinforce. Secure the working thread and trim. 3) CLASP BUTTON. Form the button for the toggle clasp: Shank: Weave the tail thread through beads to exit the B at the end of the bracelet. String 1K and 11B. Pass back through the last K added and through the B of Unit 9, the K just added, and the first 6B just added. String 3B and pass

Fig. 2: Stitching Round 3 in Unit 1

MATERIALS 10 g amethyst AB size 14° seed beads (A) 3 g amethyst AB size 11° cylinder beads (B) 19 total 3mm crystal bicones: 10 clear AB (C) and 9 aquamarine AB (D) 40 total 4mm crystal bicones: 20 olivine AB (E), 5 amethyst AB (F), 6 vintage rose AB (G), 4 salmon pink (H), 3 smoky quartz (I), and 2 light Colorado topaz (J) 10 vintage rose 6×3mm flat pressed-glass rondelles (K) Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors 2 size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 7"

through the sixth B added in this section. Repeat the thread path to reinforce and exit from the B at the end of the shank (Fig. 7). Button: Repeat Unit 1, using the bicones and only adding a C to the front of the button. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ JULIE WALKER owns The Bead Cage in Kettering, Ohio, and is grateful she gets to share what she enjoys each day at work. She is mom to a gaggle of grown-up kids, has two grandsons who remain the apples of her eyes, and is a bead and Zentangle addict. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Delica cylinder beads, Swarovski crystal bicones, pressed-glass rondelles, and FireLine braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

Fig. 3: Adding the center bicone

Fig. 4: Stitching the connecting rondelle Fig. 5: Adding Rounds 1 and 2 of Unit 2

Fig. 6: Stitching Round 3 of the clasp loop

Fig. 7: Adding the button shank


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rich ruffles SHELLEY NYBAKKE

Do you want to feel strong, powerful, and in charge of life, yet feminine at the same time? This bracelet does just that: metal for strength, and ruffles for femininity.

TECHNIQUE flat peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BAND. Use a comfortable length of dou-

bled thread to string a tension bead, leaving an 8" tail. Rows 1 and 2: String 72A to fit a 6½" wrist. Add or subtract beads to the length as needed to fit your wrist. Rows 3–8: Peyote-stitch 1A in each stitch. Keep the tension tight. Rows 9–12: Work 2A in each stitch, continuing to keep the tension tight so the beadwork ruffles. Rows 13 and 14: Work 2B in each stitch (Fig. 1). Secure the working thread and trim; do not trim the tail thread. Start a new doubled thread that exits the opposite end from where the tail is on Row 1, leaving a new 8" tail (Fig. 2). Repeat Rows 9–14 to ruffle the opposite edge of the band.

2) CLASP. Use each tail thread to attach

MATERIALS

each half of the clasp, weaving through beads and the clasp several times to secure (Fig. 3). Be sure that you attach the clasp so it fits properly into the other clasp half. ✦

65 g silver-plated or copper size 8° metal seed beads (A) About 300 silver-plated or copper 2mm cornerless cubes (B) 1 silver-plated or copper 9mm ball-andsocket clasp Crystal 10 lb beading thread

SHELLEY NYBAKKE owns The Bead Parlor in Bloomington, Illinois, where she also teaches a variety of classes and takes great delight in getting people addicted to beads. She thinks a day without beads is hardly ever worth getting out of bed for. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Metal seed beads and cubes: The Bead Parlor, (309) 827-7708, www.thebeadparlor.com.

TOOLS Scissors Size 10 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 7¼"

Fig. 1: Working Rows 13 and 14

Fig. 2: Starting a new thread to begin ruffling the opposite edge of the band

Fig. 3: Attaching one half of the clasp


030-031 Nybakke-Rich Ruffles.indd 31

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marrakech earrings LISA KAN

This chandelier-basket-earring design was inspired by the kaleidoscope-like patterns of Moroccan tile work. The earrings combine beaded three-dimensional triangles to create a hexagon shape, and crystal bicones are woven into the crevices to join the modular triangles.

TECHNIQUES flat peyote stitch circular herringbone stitch picot circular netting See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) TOP CONNECTOR. Use 18" of thread

and a combination of herringbone and netting stitches to work a triangle that will serve as the connector for the ear wire: Round 1: String 6C, leaving a 5" tail. Pass through the first bead strung to form a circle. Keep the circle tight by holding the beadwork between the thumb and index finger of your nondominant hand while you are working. Round 2: String 2C and pass through the next 2C of Round 1; repeat around to add a total of 6C. Step up for the next round by passing through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 1). Round 3: String 2C; pass through the next 1C of Round 2. String 1D, skip 2C of Round 1, and pass through the next 1C of Round 2. Repeat around to add a total of 6C and 3D. Step up for the next round by passing through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 2). Round 4: String 1A; pass through the next 1C of Round 3. String 7B; skip the 1D from Round 3 and pass through the following 1C of Round 3. Repeat around to add a total of 3A and 21B. Step up for the next round by passing through the fourth B added in this round (Fig. 3).

Connecting round: Pass through the

fourth B in the next 7B net of Round 4; repeat to connect the third net, forming a three-dimensional triangle (Fig. 4). Repeat the thread path to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Set the connector aside. 2) BASKET. Using the same general triangle pattern as in Step 1, work a series of conjoined triangles in a basket shape: Triangle 1: Repeat Step 1 to form a triangle but use 7A (instead of 7B) for one of the nets in Round 4. Set aside. Triangle 2: Repeat Step 1, Rounds 1 and 2. Repeat Step 1, Round 3, but instead of adding a third D, stitch into the side D of Triangle 1, positioning Triangle 1 so its net made with A beads is at the bottom (Fig. 5). Repeat Step 1, Round 4, but use 7A for the bottom right net. Repeat the Step 1 connecting round and exit the top of the triangle, between this triangle and Triangle 1. String 1 bicone; pass through the connecting round of Triangle 1, back through the crystal, and into the connecting round of this triangle (Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim. Set aside.

MATERIALS 2 g green teal luster size 15° seed beads (A) 3 g chartreuse luster size 15° seed beads (B) 2 g gunmetal size 15° cylinder beads (C) 2 g metallic green iris 1.5mm cube beads (D) 8 blue zircon 3mm crystal bicones 2 metallic sage 3×4mm potato pearls 1 pair of gold-filled ear wires with 3mm ball Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles Chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 1"

Artist’s Tips • To create a hexagonal component that can be used for many other design options, work two more triangles to connect Triangles 1 and 4. One option would be to connect the hexagonal medallions into a bracelet. • Don’t be tempted to tie a knot after working Round 1; your subsequent thread passes will be difficult, and you may risk breaking your base cylinder beads in successive beading.

Fig. 1: Rounds 1 and 2 of Triangle 1

Fig. 2: Working herringbone stitches and adding cubes

Fig. 4: Joining the nets to form the three-dimensional triangle

Fig. 3: Adding the nets

Fig. 5: Stitching Triangle 2 to Triangle 1’s side D

• Use triangle beads instead of cubes for a slightly different look.

Fig. 6: Adding a crystal between Triangles 1 and 2



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Fig. 7: Adding the pearl to the top of the basket

Fig. 8: Linking the basket and the connector

Back of earring

Fig. 9: Peyote-stitching along the link

Triangle 3: Repeat Triangle 2, connecting

Row 3: Pass back through the last B added

to the right-side D of the previous triangle and adding 1 bicone between Triangles 2 and 3. Triangle 4: Repeat Triangle 2, this time starting with 30" of thread, connecting to the right-side D of the previous triangle, and adding 1 bicone between Triangles 3 and 4; do not trim the thread. Pearl: Weave through beads to exit the 1A of Round 4 at the top of Triangle 4, away from the beadwork. String 1B, 1 pearl, and 1B; pass through the 1A at the top of Triangle 1. String 1B; pass through the 1A at the top of Triangle 2. String 1B; pass through the 1A at the top of Triangle 3. String 1B; pass through the 1A at the top of Triangle 4. Repeat thread path to reinforce and weave through beads to exit 1A at the rightmost corner of Triangle 4 (Fig. 7).

and work 7 stitches with 1A in each stitch along the last set of 15B added in the previous row. Pass through the nearest 1B, the 1D, and the next 1B. Work 7 stitches with 1A in each stitch along the first set of 15B from the previous row (Fig. 9). Crystal: Weave through the first set of 15B to exit the fourteenth B (a down bead before the D). String 1B, 1 bicone, and 1B. Pass through the second B in the second set of 15B and pass back through the 1B/bicone/1B and the fourteenth B (Fig. 10). Weave through all the beads added in this step to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 4) ASSEMBLY. Slide the ear wire through the top corner of the connector.

Fig. 10: Adding the crystal embellishment

LISA KAN is a beader and lampwork artist who channels her creative energy into a wide variety of mediums that challenge her. She enjoys designing elegant and feminine beadwork that has a vintage feel. With an eye for color and textural balance, she often combines crystals, pearls, and tiny seed beads with basic beading stitches to build complex designs. The stunning project she offers up in this issue is a great way to experiment with color and texture in a small package that packs a big punch. Lisa is the author of Bead Romantique: Elegant Beadweaving Designs (Interweave, 2008). Visit her website, www .lisakan.com, to see more of her work and read her blog at www.lisakan.blogspot.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Pearls: Lisa Kan Designs, lisakandesigns@ yahoo.com, www.lisakan.com. Seed and Delica cylinder beads: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. Cubes, Swarovski crystals, and FireLine braided beading thread: San Gabriel Bead Co., (626) 447-7753, www.beadcompany.com. Ear wires: Rio Grande, (800) 545-6566, www.riogrande.com.

5) Repeat Steps 1–4 for a second earring. 3) LINK. Use the working thread to

peyote-stitch a link from the basket to the connector: Rows 1 and 2: String 15B and pass through 1D of the connector triangle. String 15B and pass through the 1A at the leftmost corner of Triangle 1 (Fig. 8).

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ripple effect SHERRY SERAFINI

Robert Jennik’s spiraling glass cabochon inspired the swirling patterns in this gorgeous bead-embroidered bracelet. When you make your own version of this piece, experiment with different bead finishes as you choose beads for the circular pattern and watch the colors pop.

on the cover!

TECHNIQUES backstitch bead embroidery tubular peyote stitch brick-stitch edging See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 5 g dark gold metallic size 15° seed beads (A) 5 g silver-lined lime green size 15° seed beads (B) 5 g matte purple metallic size 15° seed beads (C) 5 g purple metallic size 15° seed beads (D) 5 g matte black size 11° seed beads (E) 10 g dark gold metallic size 11° seed beads (F) 3 g heather matte gold iris metallic size 11° cylinder beads (G) 144 matte black AB 4mm fringe drops (H) 46 green luster 3mm glass rounds 68 purple 4mm crystal pearl rounds 1 yellow/green/tan brown 25–30mm round lampwork cabochon 1 bar clasp with 3 loops Clear 6 lb braided beading thread Size D beading thread in color to match Ultrasuede 2 × 7" beading foundation 2 × 7" piece of Ultrasuede in coordinating color Clear craft adhesive White tacky glue

TOOLS Scissors Size 11° beading needle Ruler Toothpicks Fine-line permanent marker FINISHED SIZE: 7½"

1) BASE. Measure a centerline vertically and horizontally on the beading foundation. Place that on your wrist and subtract the width of the clasp plus ½". Measure and mark that length on the beading foundation, centering it at the crossed lines, but don’t trim. Use the craft adhesive to glue the cabochon to the beading foundation where the lines cross. Let dry for 15 to 20 minutes. 2) CABOCHON. Use backstitch and pey-

ote stitch to bezel the cabochon: Bezel rounds 1 and 2: Tie a strong knot at the end of 3' of braided beading thread and place the needle at the other end. Pass through the foundation from back to front near the cabochon. String 4G, slide them to the foundation, and lay them alongside the cabochon. Pass down through the foundation next to the last bead added. Pass up through the foundation between the second and third beads just added, then pass through the third and fourth beads. String 2G, lay them alongside the cabochon, pass down through the foundation next to the last bead strung, and pass up through the beads just added; repeat, working backstitch around the cabochon. Note: This round will create

the first two rounds of the bezel. Make sure the round contains an even number of beads. Bezel round 3: Work tubular peyote stitch off the backstitched beads, using 1G in each stitch. Step up for the next and following rounds by passing through the first bead of the current round (Fig. 1, green thread). Bezel rounds 4 and 5: Repeat Bezel round 3 twice or as many times as necessary so that the beadwork “hugs” the cabochon (Fig. 1, blue thread). Bezel round 6: Work tubular peyote stitch with 1A in each stitch (Fig. 1, red thread). Weave through beads to exit down through the foundation, then weave up through the foundation to exit at the base of Round 1. Note: If the thread is frayed or worn, start a new thread. 3) SURROUNDING RINGS. Backstitch

1 round of pearls around the bezeled cabochon. Exit up through the foundation between 2 pearls and the bezel. String 6A and pass down through the foundation between the same 2 pearls, except on the other side of the pearl circle; repeat to add a loop of 6A between each pearl (Fig. 2).

Fig. 1: Bezeling the cabochon

Fig. 2: Embellishing the pearl circle

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Fig. 4: Adding the brick-stitched edging

Fig. 3: Backstitching the band

Backstitch 1 round of 3mm glass rounds around the 4mm pearls. Pass up through the foundation to exit outside a 3mm glass round that sits on a center horizontal line. 4) BAND. Bead-embroider the bracelet band (Fig. 3): Centerline: String 1 pearl, lay it against the foundation, and backstitch it in place, stitching through it twice. Exit up through the foundation in the corner where the pearl just placed and the ring of 3mm glass rounds meet. Backstitch 1 round of A around the pearl followed by 1 round of B, 1 round of C, and 1 round of D. Repeat this section along the centerline to add a total of 6 pearls embellished with half circles of seed beads. Note: Depending on your bracelet’s length, it may be necessary to alter the rounds around the final pearls in the center and side lines by not forming complete rings. Secure the thread and trim. Side line: Start 3' of new thread that exits up through the foundation in a corner between the first circle along the centerline and the 3mm glass rounds. Backstitch 1 pearl, then backstitch the same sequence of seed bead rings around the pearl as you did along the centerline. Repeat to add 6 pearls embellished with

Fig. 5: Stitching the picots

quarter circles of seed beads along the edge of the centerline’s embroidery. Repeat down the other side of the centerline. Secure the thread and trim. Outline: Start 3' of new thread that exits up through the foundation at the end of one of the side lines. Backstitch 1E and 1F; repeat around the entire design, avoiding the bracelet ends. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat the entire step to embroider the other side of the bracelet. 5) FINISHING. Stitch the backing to the beadwork and add a clasp: Glue: Trim the excess beading foundation close to the beadwork, taking care to avoid cutting stitches. Add a thin, even layer of tacky glue to the back of the beadwork and press it onto the Ultrasuede. Don’t let the glue seep out around the edges. Let dry for 20 minutes. Trim the excess Ultrasuede close to the beadwork. Edging: Start 3' of new thread that exits up through the edge of the foundation, outside the beadwork. String 2F, sew up through the edge of the Ultrasuede and the beading foundation 2 beads’ width from the last point exited, then pass back through the second F just added. String 1F, sew up through the edge of

the Ultrasuede and the beading foundation 1 bead’s width from the last point exited, then pass back through the F just added (Fig. 4); repeat to brick stitch an edge around the entire cuff, connecting the Ultrasuede and the beadwork at the same time. Connect the edging ends by passing down through the first bead added, then passing up through the last. Secure the thread and trim. Picots: Center a needle on 12' of thread and knot the ends. Secure the thread at the edge of the bracelet and exit up through a brick-stitched F. String 1A, 1H, and 1A; pass down through the next F along the edge and up through the following one (Fig. 5); repeat around the entire bracelet. Secure the thread and trim. Clasp: Center a needle on 3' of thread and knot the ends. Secure the thread at one end of the bracelet. Place one half of the clasp along one end of the beadwork to determine the proper placement. Weave through beads to exit up through a brick-stitched F that coincides with the clasp’s top loop. String 1F, 1 pearl, and 3F; pass through the top loop of the clasp. String 3F and pass back through the pearl, the first F added, and the last edge F exited. Note: These numbers may

Artist’s Tips • When determining which seed beads to use, it’s best to lay them next to one another outside the tubes. The beads always look different when stitched in place. • Use Rit dye to color the beading foundation so it’s not visible through the beadwork. • Make the cuff look chunkier by using 6mm or 8mm round beads instead of the 4mm pearls.



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Fig. 6: Attaching the clasp

be adjusted to make the cuff looser or tighter. Weave through the foundation and beads to exit up through the brickstitched edge F that coincides with the clasp’s center loop; repeat the connection as above, then repeat for the final clasp loop (Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire section to add the other clasp half to the other end of the bracelet. ✦

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SHERRY SERAFINI lectures and teaches throughout the United States and has won numerous awards for excellence in design. She has written articles for several well-known magazines, and her work has been featured on the covers of trade magazines and catalogs. Sherry is the coauthor of the Art of Bead Embroidery (Kalmbach, 2007) with artist Heidi Kummli, Beading Across America with Amy Katz and Paulette Baron (Kalmbach, 2011), and Sensational Bead Embroidery (Lark Books, 2011). Her beaded art is owned and worn by Steven Tyler of Aerosmith, Fergie, and Grammy-winner Melissa Etheridge, to name a few. Sherry resides in Natrona Heights, Pennsylvania, with her two daughters, Erika and Nikki, and her Boston terrier, Baily.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Cabochon: www.robertjennik.com. Seed beads: Knot Just Beads, (414) 771-8360, www .knotjustbeads.com. Ultrasuede, Lacy’s Stiff Stuff beading foundation, and clasp: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.fire mountaingems.com.



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garden lace K E L LY W I E S E

Connect a multitude of beaded flowers with seed beads and crystals to make a lacy and delicate cuff.

TECHNIQUES leaf fringe picot See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 10 g light sapphire gray luster size 15° seed beads (A) 4 g transparent dark purple AB size 11° seed beads (B) 64 amethyst 3mm crystal bicones (C) 66 amethyst 4mm crystal bicones (D) 2 amethyst luster 4mm fire-polished rounds Purple size D nylon beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 15⁄8 × 7"

Artist’s Tip Add more flowers to make the cuff into an elegant choker.

1) FLOWER. Use 3' of thread, 4mm crys-

2) CONNECTIONS. Use seed beads and

tals, and seed beads to make a beaded flower: Center: String 1D and 6A, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the D. String 6A; pass through the D again to form a circle of beads around the crystal. Weave through all 12A to tighten the circle (Fig. 1a). Pass through 1A and pull tight to close any gaps. Petals: String 4A and 1B; pass back through the fourth A strung. String 3A; pass through the last A exited on the circle and through the next A in the circle (Fig. 1b). Repeat around to add a total of 12 petals. Secure and trim the tail thread but leave the working thread for connecting the flowers later. Set aside. Repeat this entire step seventeen times for a total of 18 flowers.

crystals to connect the petals of the flowers: Flower connection: Weave the working thread of 1 flower through beads to exit 1B at the tip of a petal. String 1B; pass through the 1B at the tip of an adjacent petal on the same flower. Pass through 1B at the tip of a second flower’s petal. String 1B; pass through 1B at the tip of the adjacent petal on the second flower and the 3B previously connected on the first flower (Fig. 2). Picots: String 3A; pass through the next 3B (Fig. 3a). Repeat to add a second picot on the other side of the flower connection. Skipping 1 petal on the first flower, weave through beads to exit 1B at the tip of the next petal (Fig. 3b). Square: Repeat this entire step three times to connect a total of 4 flowers in a square (Fig. 4).

b

a

Fig. 1: Adding the first petal

Fig. 2: Connecting 2 flowers

a b

Fig. 3: Working the picots and setting up for the next connection

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Fig. 4: Connecting 4 flowers into a square

Fig. 5: Embellishing the square’s opening



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Fig. 6: Working an edge loop

Fig. 7a: Adding the clasp beads

3) OPENING. Weave through beads to exit

5) ASSEMBLY. Continue connecting the

the middle A of the picot at the inside top of the square. String 1C; pass through the 1B at the tip of the next open petal inside the square. String 1D; pass through the middle A of the next picot on the inside of the square. String 1D; pass through the 1B at the tip of the next open petal inside the square. String 1C; pass through the middle A of the next picot on the inside of the square. Repeat the stringing sequence to cover the other half of the opening, adding a total of 8 crystals (Fig. 5). Repeat the thread path to reinforce.

flowers, following Steps 2–4 until all of the flowers are used. Secure any remaining threads and trim.

4) EDGE LOOP. Weave through beads to exit from the middle A of the picot at the top of the square. String 1C; pass through the 1B at the tip of the next petal of the closest flower. String 3A, 1B, 1D, 1B, and 3A; pass through the 1B at the tip bead of the next petal on the opposite flower. String 1C; pass through the middle A of the picot at the top of the square (Fig. 6). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Repeat entire step on the bottom of the square.

6) CLASPS. Create the closure using seed beads and 4mm fire-polished rounds: Clasp beads: Start 2' of thread that exits from 1B at the tip of the petal nearest the connection picot at one end of the bracelet. String 3B, 1 round, and 3B; pass back through the round and nearest 1B. String 2B; pass through the 1B at the tip of the next petal (Fig. 7a). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat to attach another set of clasp beads on the second flower at the same end of the bracelet. Secure the thread and trim.

Fig. 7b: Adding a clasp loop

Clasp loops: Start 2' of thread that exits

from 1B at the tip of the second petal nearest the connection picot at the other end of the bracelet. String 13A (or enough to fit snugly around a round). Pass through the last 1B exited to form a loop (Fig. 7b). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat to attach another loop on the second flower at the same end of the bracelet. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ KELLY WIESE is a beadwork designer who loves to work with size 15° seed beads and crystals. She has an online store specializing in her bead kits at www .beadparlor.com. She is the author of the books Beaded Allure (North Light Books, 2010) and A Beaded Romance (David and Charles, 2013). RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: All beads and findings: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com.

Option Work one row of flowers instead of two for a smaller bracelet.



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sleek in silver H AT S U M I O S H I TA N I

Enjoy the graceful drape of a sleek, silvery necklace worked with two-hole beads in a modified version of St. Petersburg stitch.

TECHNIQUES St. Petersburg stitch variation basic fringe See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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Option This design can accommodate many different kinds of beads as an embellishment for the edges or the fringe.

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MATERIALS

Artist’s Tip

5 g taupe-lined clear size 11° seed beads (A) 5 g steel blue–lined clear size 8° seed beads (B) 10 g steel-gray matte metallic 4.5mm flat, square 2-hole beads (C) 9 misty aqua 8×10mm glass, faceted, top-drilled briolettes 2 silver 7mm split rings 1 pewter 11×34mm decorative hook-and-eye clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

The length of 1 two-hole bead is about equal to 4 cylinder beads or 3 size 11° beads. Adjust the numbers, depending on the size of the beads you use.

1) STRAPS. Form the necklace straps

using a variation of St. Petersburg stitch: Unit 1: Using 9' of thread, string 1C, 3A, 1B and 3A, leaving an 8" tail. Pass back through the C using the same hole just exited to form a narrow loop and position the beads so this hole is on the left. Pass down through the right hole of the C (Fig. 1). Unit 2: String the left hole of 1C; pass up through the second group of 3A strung in Unit 1 and down through the left hole of the C just strung (Fig. 2). String 3A, 1B, and 3A; pass up through the left hole of the C just exited and the right hole of the C added in Unit 1. String 1A, 1B, and 3A; pass down through the right hole of the C added in this unit (Fig. 3). Unit 3: String the left hole of 1C, pass up through the second group of 3A on the previous unit and down through the left hole of the C just strung (Fig. 4, green thread). String 3A, 1B, and 3A; pass up through the left hole of the C just exited, the right hole of the C added in the previous unit, and the next A (Fig 4, blue thread). String 1B and 3A; pass down through the right hole of the C added in this unit (Fig 4, red thread). Units 4–36: Repeat Unit 3 twenty-eight times, for a total of 31 units. On Units 32, 34, and 36, add a teardrop loop to the outer edge by replacing the 7-bead loop with the following beads: 5A, 1B, 1 teardrop, 1B, and 5A (Fig. 5). Stitch Units 33 and 35 with 7-bead loops as before. Don’t trim the thread. Set the strap aside. Repeat this entire step to make a second strap.

TOOLS

Fig. 1: Stitching the first unit

Fig. 3: Completing Unit 2

Fig. 2: Adding the second 2-hole bead

Fig. 4: Adding Unit 3

2) ASSEMBLY. Join the two straps at the necklace’s center front: Row 1: Arrange the two straps in a V shape with the 7-bead loops on the outer edge. Using the working thread exiting Unit 36 on the left strap, string the left hole of 1C, pass down through the right hole of the C on Unit 36, and pass up through the left hole of the C just added (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass down through the right hole of the C just added. Pass up through the left hole of the Unit 36 C on the right strap, down through the right hole of the C just added, and up through the left hole of the Unit 36 C on the right strap (Fig. 6, red thread).

Scissors Size 12 beading needle Split-ring pliers (optional) FINISHED SIZE: 19"

Fig. 5: Forming the teardrop loop

Fig. 6: Connecting the straps



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Row 2: Pass down through the right hole

Fig. 7: Stitching Row 2

Fig. 8: Finishing the connection

of the C just exited and the next 3A on the Unit 36 gemstone loop on the right strap. String the right hole of 1C; pass down through the 3A just exited and up through the right hole of the C just added (Fig. 7, purple thread). Pass up through the left hole of the C in Unit 36, down through the right hole of the C added in Row 1, and down through the left hole of the C just added (Fig. 7, green thread). String the right hole of 1C; pass down through the left hole of the C just exited and up through the right hole of the C just added (Fig. 7, blue thread). Pass up through the left hole of the C added in Row 1, down through the right hole of the C in Unit 36 on the left strap, and down through the left hole of the second C added in this row. Pass up through the upper 3A on the Unit 36 gemstone loop on the left strap and the left hole of the C in Unit 36 (Fig. 7, red thread). Row 3: Pass down through the right hole on the C just exited and the left hole of the second C added in Row 2. Pass up through the right hole of the C just exited and down through the left hole of the first C added in Row 2 (Fig. 8, blue thread). String the right hole of 1C; pass up through the left hole of the same C and the right hole of the second C added in Row 2. Pass down through the left hole of the first C added in Row 2, up through the right hole of the same C, and up through the left hole of the C in Unit 36 on the right side (Fig. 8, red thread). 3) FRINGE. Add 3 strands of fringe to the

center front: Right fringe: Weave through beads to

Fig. 9: Adding the fringe

44

exit from the right hole of the first C added in Row 2. String 1B, 5A, 1B, 2A, 1B, 1 teardrop, 1B, and 2A. Skip 1B and 2A and pass back through the next 1B, 5A, and 1B. Pass up through the same hole exited at the start of this fringe (Fig. 9, green thread).

Center fringe: Weave down through beads

to exit the right hole of the C added in Row 3. String 1B, 6A, 1B, 2A, 1B, 1 teardrop, 1B, and 2A. Skip 1B and 2A and pass back through the next 1B and 6A and string 1B. Pass up through the left hole of the same C exited at the start of this fringe and the right hole of the second C added in Row 2 (Fig. 9, blue thread). Left fringe: Pass down through the left hole of the same C just exited. Make this fringe to match the right fringe and pass up through the same hole exited at the start. Secure the working threads and trim (Fig. 9, red thread). 4) CLASP. Attach 1 split ring to the small

loop on each half of the clasp. Thread a needle on the tail at the end of either necklace strap. String 6A and the split ring on one half of the clasp. Pass through the other hole of the same C the thread is exiting and weave through the beads at the end of the strap, following the thread path. Repeat the thread path to reinforce the connecting bead loop. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat using the tail on the other strap. ✦ HATSUMI OSHITANI is a self-taught beader with a longstanding interest in St. Petersburg chain. She’s interested in structures and textures that she can create with seed beads. To see more of her jewelry, visit her website, www.beadingbees.net. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Tila 2-hole square beads: Caravan Beads, (800) 230-8941, www.caravanbeads.net. Czech seed beads and findings: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com. Briolettes and FireLine braided beading thread: Beadaholique, (866) 834-4618, www.beadaholique.com.



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Bella Bracelet by Maria Teresa Moran

Simply Irresistible 39 striking beading projects for everyone Available for the first time, discover Quick + Easy Beadwork a project-packed special issue featuring 39 all new projects. Whether you are a beading novice, or intermediate looking for projects you can make in a few hours, these handpicked projects are perfect for boosting your skills!

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Reflecting Pool Necklace by Tatiana Mueller

045_FBS14.indd 45

shop.beadingdaily.com/QuickEasy2013

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lucky clovers RACHEL McENROE

Crystal flowers appear to float across this elegant right-angleweave bracelet.

TECHNIQUES flat right-angle weave flat netting See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BASE. Right-angle weave a base of

pearls and seed beads: Unit 1: Use 6' of thread to string {1D and 1A} four times, leaving a 3" tail. Pass through all again to form a circle and tie a square knot. Weave through beads to exit from the third D (Fig. 1, blue thread). Unit 2: String {1A and 1D} three times, then string 1A; pass through the last D exited from Unit 1 and the first four beads added in this unit (Fig. 1, red thread). Units 3–15: Repeat Unit 2 thirteen times. Don’t trim the thread.

Artist’s Tips • Select a similar color for the pearls and size 11° beads to make the crystal flowers appear more vibrant. • To strengthen the bracelet, pass back through the base a second time.

TOOLS Flower 2: Repeat Flower 1 to embellish the

next base unit, this time using C instead of B. Flowers 3–15: Repeat Flowers 1 and 2 to embellish the entire base. Finish with a Flower 1 embellishment.

2) EMBELLISH. Add a layer of bicone

3) CLASP. Form a button/loop clasp:

“flowers” to the base:

Button: String 5A, the button, and 5A;

Flower 1: String {1A and 1B} twice, then

pass through the last D exited (Fig. 3). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the working thread and trim. Loop: Start a new 8" thread that exits from the D at the other end of the bracelet. String 26A or enough to loop snugly around the button; pass through the last D exited (Fig. 4). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the tail thread and trim. ✦

string 1A; pass through the last D exited to form a loop. Weave through the next A/D/A/D in the base unit (Fig. 2, blue thread). String 1A and 1B, pass through the middle A of the loop just added, then string 1B and 1A and pass through the last D exited (Fig. 2, red thread).

MATERIALS 3 g clear silver-lined crystal size 11° Japanese seed beads (A) 32 Indian sapphire 4mm crystal bicones (B) 28 emerald 4mm crystal bicones (C) 46 light gray 6mm crystal pearls (D) 1 clear 13mm glass faceted button Crystal 6 lb braided beading thread

Scissors Size 10 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 7"

RACHEL MCENROE, has been beading since 2008. She is a student at the University of Chicago, where she studies physics, math, and chemistry in addition to continuing her foreign language studies in Russian, Arabic, and Chinese. She can be contacted at [email protected]. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski pearls and crystals, seed beads, and FireLine braided beading thread: FusionBeads .com, (888) 781-3559, and Beadaholique, www.beadaholique.com.

Fig. 1: Stitching Units 1 and 2 of the base

Fig. 2: Stitching the first flower

Fig. 3: Adding the button

Fig. 4: Forming the loop


046-047 McEnroe-Lucky Clovers.indd 47

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runway of pearls BAR BAR A FALKOW I T Z

Stitch this elegant bracelet by embellishing right-angle weave with seed beads and pearls. The two-layer process results in a substantial cuff that’s reversible!

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES flat right-angle weave flat netting See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 1) BASE. Stitch a right-angle-weave base 43 units wide and 5 rows long with 4C per unit: Row 1, Unit 1: Use 6' of thread to string 4C, leaving a 4" tail. Pass through the beads again to form a circle; exit through the first C. Row 1, Unit 2: String 3C; pass through the last C exited and the first 2C just added. Row 1, Units 3–43: Repeat Row 1, Unit 2, forty-one times or to the desired length minus the clasp width. Exit from the top C of the final unit. Row 2, Unit 1: String 3C, pass through the last C exited, the 3C just added, and the next top C in Row 1. Row 2, Unit 2: String 2C; pass through the nearest side C from the previous unit, the last C exited in the previous row, and the first C just added. Row 2, Unit 3: String 2C; pass through the next top C of the previous row, the side C of the previous unit, the 2C just added, and the following top C of the previous row. Row 2, Units 4–43: Repeat Row 2, Units 2 and 3, to the end of the row. Rows 3–5: Repeat Row 2 three times. Secure the thread and trim. 2) ZIGZAG EMBELLISHMENT. Stitch

seed beads and pearls to embellish the center of each right-angle-weave unit. Row 1: Start 3' of new thread that exits up from the end side C of base Row 1, Unit 1. String 1A, 1B, and 1A, then pass up through the nearest side C of the next unit to form a diagonal strand (Fig. 1); repeat to diagonally embellish each Row 1 unit.

Fig. 1: Stitching the seed bead embellishment

Row 2: Repeat Row 1 across base Row 2. Row 3: Repeat Row 1 across base Row 3,

this time using 1 pearl in each stitch rather than the A/B/A (Fig. 2). Rows 4 and 5: Repeat Row 1 across base Row 4 and then across base Row 5. 3) ZIP. Connect and embellish base Rows 1 and 5: Prepare: Start 3' of new thread that exits from the top C of Unit 1 in base Row 5, toward the work. Fold the piece in half lengthwise so zigzag Row 3 is at the fold with the pearls on the outside of the fold. Zip: String 1C; pass through the bottom C of Unit 1 in base Row 1. String 1C; pass through the top C of Unit 1 in base Row 5, the first C added in this new unit, and the next bottom C in base Row 1 (Fig. 3, blue thread). String 1C; pass through the top C of the next unit in base Row 5, the side C of the previous unit, the nearest bottom C in base Row 1, the C just added, and the next top C in base Row 5 (Fig. 3, red thread). Continue connecting base Rows 1 and 5 to form a seamless tube. Secure the thread and trim. Zigzag embellishment: Repeat zigzag Row 3 to embellish the row just formed with pearls; don’t trim the thread. Exit from the end C added in the zipped row.

Fig. 2: Adding the pearl embellishment

5 g matte gold size 15° seed beads (A) 3 g matte aqua size 11° seed beads (B) 10 g dark brown luster size 11° triangle beads (C) 80–86 bright gold 3mm crystal pearl rounds 1 silver 10×15mm 2- or 3-strand filigree box clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread


Fig. 3: Zipping the rightangle-weave base



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Artist’s Tips

4) CLASP. String 1A, the top loop of one

Fig. 4: Adding the clasp

half of the clasp, and 1A; pass through the last C exited and weave through beads to exit an end C in the next base row (Fig. 4, green thread). String 1A, the center loop of the clasp, and 1A; pass through the end C on the other side of the base. String 1A and pass through the center loop of the clasp; string 1A and pass through the end C in the next row on the other side of the base. Weave through beads to exit an end C in the next base row (Fig. 4, blue thread). String 1A, the bottom loop of the clasp, and 1A; pass through the end C on the other side of the base (Fig. 4, red thread). Repeat the entire thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Start 1' of new thread on the other end of the base and repeat this entire step to connect the other half of the clasp. ✦

• Triangle beads tend to make the right-angle-weave base look a little jumbled, so take care to pick up the correct beads when zipping the two sides. • To give your bracelet a different look when you wear it on the reverse side, change the seed bead colors in base Rows 4 and 5.

BARBARA FALKOWITZ is co-owner of Artful Beads Studio and Workshop in Pennington, New Jersey, where she designs and teaches original work. Barbara loves to share her passion for beading and feels lucky to be a part of the bead world. RESOURCES Check your local bead store or contact: FireLine braided beading thread and all other materials: Artful Beads Studio and Workshop, (609) 737-1077, www.artfulbeadstudio.com.

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free-form beadweaving with this must-have guide!

Join skilled bead artist and teacher Kelly Angeley for a must-have beading book that walks you through all the steps and techniques you need to master off-loom and free-form beading patterns. Get your copy today to:

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Explorations in Beadweaving: Techniques for an Improvisational Approach

2/25/14 3:55 PM

elegant endings

K E L LY W I E S E

With a toggle clasp thoughtfully placed between two focal points, this sparkly bracelet is a shining example of cohesive design.

TECHNIQUES circular and tubular peyote stitch circular and flat netting square stitch flat chevron chain variation

MAIN COLORWAY

See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 1) BEZELS. Work a combination of tubular

Round 8: String 1C and pass through the

peyote stitch and netting to create the bezels for the rivolis: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 5' of thread to string 24B, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through all the beads again to form a circle. Exit through the first B strung. Round 3: Work tubular peyote stitch with 1B in each stitch for a total of 12B. Step up for the next round by passing through the first bead added in this round. Round 4: Work tubular peyote stitch with 3A in each stitch for a total of 36A. Step up through the first 3A added in this round (Fig. 1, blue thread). Round 5: String 1B and pass through the next 3A of Round 4; repeat to add a total of 12B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1, red thread). Round 6: String 3B and pass through the next B from the last round; repeat to add a total of 36B. Step up through a B of Round 5 (Fig. 2, teal thread). Round 7: String 1B and pass through the second B of the next B in Round 5; repeat to add a total of 12B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 2, blue thread). Place 1 rivoli in the center of the beadwork and pull tight. Repeat the thread path of this round to reinforce and secure the beadwork around the crystal.

next B of Round 7; repeat to add a total of 12C (Fig. 2, red thread). This completes the inside of the bezel. To begin working the outside edge, weave through beads to exit from Round 5. Round 9: String 3C and pass through the next B from Round 4; repeat to add a total of 36C. Step up through the first 2C added in this round (Fig. 2, orange thread). Round 10: String 1B, one 3mm bicone, and 1B; pass through the second C of the next 3C of Round 9; repeat to add a total of 24B and 12 bicones (Fig. 2, black thread). Secure the tail thread and trim; don’t cut the working thread. Set the bezel aside. Repeat this entire step for a second bezeled rivoli.


7 g bronze metallic size 15° Japanese seed beads (A) 5 g black purple metallic iris size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 3 g bronze metallic size 11° Japanese seed beads (C) 120 fuchsia 2mm crystal rounds (D) 48 amethyst 2mm crystal rounds (E) 28 fuchsia 3mm crystal bicones 2 amethyst 4mm crystal bicones 2 amethyst foil-backed 14mm crystal rivolis Size D tan nylon beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 7"

2) TOGGLE RING. Repeat the bezel,

Rounds 1–7, but don’t insert a crystal. Zip the Cs from Round 8 to the Bs from Round 1 that stick out on the inside of the ring. Weave through beads to exit from Round 5. Repeat Round 9. Repeat Round 10, this time working 1B, 1E, and 1B with each stitch (Fig. 3). Secure the tail thread and trim; don’t cut the working thread. Set the ring aside.

Fig. 2: Encasing the rivoli and working the outside edge

Fig. 3: Creating the toggle ring



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Fig. 4: Working Rows 1–3 of the bezel tab

Fig. 5: Adding Rows 4 and 5

Fig. 6: Embellishing the tab

Artist’s Tip This bracelet can easily be made longer or shorter by adjusting the length of the chains that form the strap.

3) BEZEL TAB. Stitch a tab off one side of

a bezel: Rows 1 and 2: Weave the working thread

of 1 bezel through beads to exit a second C of 3C from Round 9, toward the back of the rivoli. Square-stitch 1C to the last C exited; weave through beads to the second C of the next 3C and repeat. String 5A and pass through the first C added in this step. Work an odd-count turnaround to exit the last C exited (Fig. 4, blue thread). Row 3: Work 2 peyote stitches with 1A in each stitch (Fig. 4, red thread). Rows 4 and 5: Work 2 more rows of peyote stitch with 1C in each stitch (Fig. 5). Weave through beads to exit from the C at one edge of Row 3. Embellishment row: String 1C and pass through the next A of Row 3; repeat once. String 1C and pass through the next C of Row 3 (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 1E and pass back through the last C added; repeat to add a total of 3E. String 1E and pass through the C at the edge of Row 3 (Fig. 6, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set aside. Repeat this entire step on the second bezel.

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Fig. 7: Working Passes 1 and 2 of the chain

4) CHAIN. Stitch chains that will be used for the strap with a variation of chevronchain pattern: Pass 1: Use 4' of thread to string 7A, leaving a 6" tail. Pass back through the first A strung (Fig. 7, blue thread). Pass 2: String 3A and pass back through the fifth A strung in the previous pass (Fig. 7, red thread). Pass 3: String 5A and pass back through the third A added in the previous pass (Fig. 8). Pass 4: String 3A and pass back through the third A added in the previous pass (Fig. 9). Passes 5 and on: Repeat Passes 3 and 4 until the chain has 29 sets of 2A beads on each side. Note: For a shorter or longer bracelet, adjust the number of passes accordingly. Secure the tail thread, but keep the working thread. Set aside. Repeat this entire step for a second chain. 5) BEZEL/CHAIN CONNECTION.

Connect the chains to the bezels: Connection 1: Weave the working thread

of 1 bezel through beads so it exits the second C of Row 5 on the tab, toward the edge. Pass through 2A at the end of one of the chains and through the next C of Row 5. Note: The 2A at the end of each chain should fit between the Cs of the tab (Fig. 10, blue thread). Edging 1 (outside): String 1D and pass through the nearest 2A on the outside edge of the chain (Fig. 10, red thread); repeat to add 1D between each edge 2A to add a total of 30D.

Fig. 8: Adding Pass 3 to the chain

Fig. 9: Working Pass 4

Connection 2: Pass through the edge C of

Row 5 on the second bezel tab, toward the center. Pass through the 2A at the end of the current chain and through the next C of Row 5 on the second bezel tab. Edging 1 (inside): String 1D and pass through the next 2A on the other edge of the chain; repeat to add a total of 30D. Connections 3 and 4: Repeat Connection 1 and its edging and Connection 2 and its edging on the other side of the bezel tabs to connect the second chain to the bezels. 6) BAND CENTER. Add seed beads and

crystals between the two chains to connect them to each other: Unit 1: Weave the working thread of 1 chain through beads to exit from the first D on the inside. String 1B, pass through the first D on the inside of the second chain, back through the B just added, through the first D on the first chain, and the next 2A and D of the first chain. Unit 2: String 1A, 1E, and 1A; pass back through the mirror D on the second chain. String 1A, pass back through the last E added, string 1A, and pass through the last D exited on the first chain and the next 2A and D of the first chain. Unit 3: String 2A, 1E, and 2A; pass back through the mirror D on the second chain. String 2A, pass back through the last E added, string 2A, and pass



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through the last D exited on the first chain and the next 2A and D of the first chain. Unit 4: Repeat Unit 3 using 6A (2 sets of 3A) on each side of the E (Fig. 11). Units 5–8: Repeat Unit 3 four times using 8A (2 sets of 4A) on each side of the E. Units 9–22: Repeat Unit 3 fourteen times or until there are 8D left on the chains, using 10A (2 sets of 5A) on each side of the E. Repeat Units 8–1, in that order, to complete the connection.

Fig. 10: Starting Connection 1

Fig. 11: Working Units 1–4 of the center

7) TOGGLE BAR. Peyote-stitch the toggle-

bar portion of the clasp: Strip and zip: Use 3' of thread to work a

strip of peyote stitch 22A wide and 8 rows long, leaving a 6" tail. Weave Rows 1 and 8 together to zip the strip into a seamless tube. Ends: Pass through the center of the tube Figure 1 to exit the other end. String one 4mm bicone and 3A, then pass back through the bicone and the tube; repeat to add the other end. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the tail thread and trim, but don’t trim the working thread. Set aside. 8) CLASP. Connect the toggle ring and toggle bar to the bezels: Ring: Weave the toggle ring’s working thread through beads to exit from a second C in a set of 3C in Round 8. String one 3mm bicone and pass through the second C in a set of 3C in Round 9 on the back of a bezel, on the side opposite the chain connections. Pass back through the 3mm bicone and the last C exited. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Repeat on the next set of 3C in Round 9 (Fig. 12). Bar: Weave the toggle bar’s working thread through beads to exit the eleventh A from one end. *String 8B and one 3mm bicone; pass through the second C in a set of 3C in Round 9 on the back of the open bezel, on the opposite side from

Fig. 12: Connecting the toggle ring

the chain connections. Pass back through the 3mm bicone, the 8B, and the last A exited on the toggle bar. Pass through the twelfth A of the toggle bar. Repeat from * to complete the connection, passing the second C of the next set of 3C in Round 9 (Fig. 13). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

Fig. 13: Connecting the toggle bar

KELLY WIESE is a beadwork designer who loves to work with size 15° seed beads and crystals. She has an online store specializing in her bead kits at www .beadparlor.com. She is the author of the books Beaded Allure (North Light Books, 2010) and A Beaded Romance (David and Charles, 2013). RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystals and all other materials: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyond beadery.com.



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bezeled beauties BONNIE CLEWANS

Use pronglike seed-bead connections and metal frames to create earrings with stunning crystals.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES circular peyote stitch circular netting See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) FRAME. Bead around the frame to form

a base for the earring: Side 1: Use 3' of thread to string 1B; pass through it several times to form a tension bead. Pass through one of the holes on the frame, from inside to outside. String 18B and one 3mm round and pass through the second hole of the frame, from outside to inside. String 1B and pass back through the last hole exited on the frame. Pass through the last 3mm round added and snug the beads (Fig. 1). Note: The beads will not be tight against the frame. Side 2: String 18B and one 3mm round; pass through the first hole of the frame from outside to inside, pass back through the tension bead, then pass back through the hole of the frame and through the 3mm round just added. Weave through the Side 1 beads to exit from the first 3mm round added (Fig. 2, blue thread).

Loop: String 6B and pass through the last

MATERIALS

3mm round exited to form a loop (Fig. 2, red thread); repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the sixth bead along Side 2. Knots: Secure the beads to the frame by tying a half-hitch knot around the frame after the last B exited. Weave through beads to exit the fifteenth B along Side 2 and repeat the knotting. Continue, tying knots after the fourth and fourteenth beads of Side 1. Weave through beads to exit from the third B added in Side 2 (Fig. 3).

5 g peacock AB size 15° seed beads (A) 5 g gunmetal size 11° cylinder beads (B) 4 pale gray AB 3mm crystal rounds 2 foil-backed erinite 12mm rounded square, faceted, pointed-back crystal cabochons 2 silver 14mm 2-hole diamond frames with an 8mm opening 1 pair of sterling silver ¾" ear wires Smoke 4 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 English beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 13 ⁄8"

2) PRONGS. String 5A, 1B, and 5A, skip

3B, and pass through the following 6B; repeat three times to form a total of 4 prongs around the edge of the frame. Weave through beads to exit through the first B added in this step (Fig. 4).

Artist’s Tips • If you can’t find the rounded square crystal cabochons, simply substitute a 12mm round crystal rivoli or button. You may have to increase or decrease the number of size 15° seed beads in the prong to get the bead to sit snugly in the frame. A round bead or button will also fit nicely in the frame. • You may substitute size 14° seed beads for the size 15°s. Just decrease the number of beads in the prong to get a snug fit.

Fig. 1: Adding Side 1

Fig. 2: Adding Side 2 and the hanging loop

• In this project, the flexibility of the English beading needle is important so you can get between tight beads. • Feel free to experiment with different colored seed beads and crystals. However, it's best to stick with metallic cylinder beads for this project; other finishes may change the overall size of the beads enough to affect the tension.

Fig. 3: Tying the beads to the frame

Fig. 4: Adding the prongs



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Options Link several components for a coordinating bracelet or necklace. Also try working the pattern with round frames for circular components.

Fig. 5: Stitching Rounds 1 and 2 of the bezel

3) BEZEL. Work a circular peyote-stitch

Round 2: String 1A, skip the next A of

bezel to secure a cabochon:

Round 1, and pass through the following A; repeat the peyote stitching around to add a total of 12A, incorporating the B from the prongs in the round (Fig. 5, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. Add 1 ear wire to the loop added in Step 1.

Round 1: String 5A and pass through the B

at the tip of the next prong; repeat three times using fairly loose tension to add a total of 20A. Place 1 cabochon, faceup, inside the beadwork; tighten the beads to secure the cabochon in place (Fig. 5, blue thread).

4) Repeat Steps 1–3 for a second earring. ✦

58

BONNIE CLEWANS is an internationally known educator and designer. She has been published in Beadwork, Step by Step Beads, and the books Beading with Crystals and Beading with Charms (Lark Books, 2007), and more. She is a consultant for Touchstone Crystal and an ambassador for Create Your Style with Swarovski Elements. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski article #4470 crystal cabochons: M & J Trimming, (800) 965-8746, www.mjtrim.com. TierraCast frames: Bead World, (480) 948-2323, www .beadworldinc.com. Delica cylinder beads and all other materials: Scottsdale Bead Supply, (480) 945-5988, www.scottsdalebead.com.



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affinity series JEAN POWER

Peyote-stitch these sparkly and shapely bangles that, when worn in multiples, fit together nicely to add even more undulation.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES circular and tubular peyote stitch ladder stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 9 g silver metallic size 11° seed beads (A) 13 g silver metallic size 8° seed beads (B) 176 raspberry metallic 4mm fire-polished rounds (C) Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread


Option Form wider versions of the bangle using these bead combinations:

Medium Bangle 11 g size 11° seed beads (A beads) 15 g size 8° seed beads (B beads) 192 pressed-glass 6x4mm rondelles

Large Bangle 35 g size 8° seed beads (A beads) 25 g size 6° seed beads (B beads) 136 pressed-glass 8x5mm rondelles

1) DISC. Use peyote and ladder stitches to

Round 6: String 1B, pass through the last

form a beaded disc: Round 1: Add a tension bead to 3' of thread, leaving a 6" tail. String 4A; pass through the first A to form a tight circle. Don’t tie a knot. Round 2: String 1A and pass through the next A of Round 1; repeat three times for a total of 4A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 1, orange thread). Round 3: Work 4 peyote stitches with 2A in each stitch for a total of 8A; step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 1, green thread). Round 4: Work 8 peyote stitches with 1A in each stitch for a total of 8A; step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 1, blue thread). Round 5: Work 8 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch for a total of 8B; step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1, red thread).

B exited, the next A of Round 4, and the following B of Round 5; repeat seven times to ladder-stitch a total of 8B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 2). Note: You will now work in a counterclockwise direction. Round 7: Work 8 peyote stitches with 1C in each stitch for a total of 8C. Weave through the beads of Rounds 6 and 7 again to align and reinforce; step up through a B of Round 6 (Fig. 3, blue thread). Round 8: String 1B, pass through the last B exited, the next C of Round 7, and the following B of Round 6; repeat seven times to ladder-stitch a total of 8B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 3, red thread). Note: You will now work in a clockwise direction again. Round 9: Work 8 peyote stitches with 1A in each stitch for a total of 8A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 4, blue thread). This will pull the ladder-stitched beads of Round 8 toward the center of the disc.

Artist’s Tips • If you’d like to wear several bangles at once, note that they’ll nestle together only if they’re stitched with the same bead combination (that is, size 11°s, size 8°s, and fire-polished rounds).

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 2–5 of the component

Fig. 2: Adding Round 6

• You may need to add extra length to a bangle that incorporates rondelles. • Form a necklace or a cuff bracelet by beading a length of the pattern, then, without zipping the ends, string the beadwork on a metal cuff or neck wire.

Fig. 3: Stitching Rounds 7 and 8

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Fig. 4: Adding Rounds 9 and 10



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Fig. 5: Stitching Round 11

Round 10: Repeat Round 9 (Fig. 4,

red thread). Round 11: String 1A and pass through the

next 2A of Round 10 to form a decrease; repeat three times for a total of 4A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 5). Rounds 12 and 13: Work 4 peyote stitches with 1A in each stitch for a total of 4A in each of 2 rounds (Fig. 6).

Fig. 6: Adding Rounds 12 and 13

Repeat Rounds 3–13 twenty-one times or JEAN POWER is an award-winning jewelry designer, author, and teacher. When not teaching to the desired length, to form a continuous or writing, she loves to combine beads with mixed strand of beaded discs. materials and techniques and play roller derby. Visit Jean’s website at www.jeanpower.com.

2) ASSEMBLY. Remove the tension bead RESOURCES Check your local bead shop and Rounds 1–4 of the first disc. Use the contact: Seed beads and FireLine braided working thread from the final disc to work beading thread: Fine Lines The Bead Business, www.delicabeads.co.uk. Fire-polished rounds: Rounds 3 and 4; zip Round 4 to Round 5 Oak Tree Crafts, www.oaktreecrafts.com. Rondelles: of the first disc. ✦ The Southampton Bead Shop, www.thesouthamp tonbeadshop.co.uk. Similar materials (U.S. source): Beads by Blanche, (201) 385-6225, www.beadsbyblanche.com.

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cascading links bracelet CYNTHIA RUTLEDGE

Add elegance and incredible sparkle to a bracelet design by incorporating links made by bezeling around stones and settings of choice, closing off the back of the bezels with peyote stitch, and then adding picot embellishments and connection loops.

TECHNIQUES flat and tubular peyote stitch picot gem-setting See p. 126 for helpful technique information.

Artist’s Note The number of stones and settings required for this project depends on the desired length of your bracelet. Plan on one stone per ¾" pattern repeat.


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1) LINKS. Work peyote stitch into a beaded

bezel to cover the prong setting, embellish with magatamas, and add connection loops: Rows 1–3: Use a comfortable length of thread to string 21A, leaving an 8" tail. Skip the first 2 beads just strung and pass back through the third-to-last bead (Fig. 1). Work peyote stitch to the end of the row with 1A in each stitch, adjusting the strip’s tension. Note: Now, are you asking yourself, “How did we get to even count when we started with an odd number of beads?” We started with 21 beads, but because we skipped the first two beads at the beginning of the row, one of those beads actually moved to Row 3 of the peyote-stitched strip, leaving us with 10 up beads and 10 down beads. Zip: Thread a needle onto the tail. Making sure the beadwork isn’t twisted, turn the peyote-stitched strip into a tube by passing both the working and tail threads into the end of the strip (Fig. 2). Slide the beadwork onto the smooth part of the setting so the working thread exits near the base of the setting and the tail thread exits near the prongs. Remove the needle from the tail thread but don’t trim. Round 4: Use the working thread to work tubular peyote stitch with 1A in each stitch. At the end of the round, step up

through the first bead added in this round. Round 5: Work 1 peyote stitch with 1A. Pass the needle between the setting and the beadwork to exit up near the prong tips. Pass around the closest prong tip and down through the space between the setting and the beadwork. Pass through the last bead exited of Round 4 (Fig. 3). When the thread is tightened, the loop of thread that wrapped around the prong slides to the bottom of the prong. Continue peyotestitching the round with 1A in each stitch and connecting to the prongs in two more places to add a total of 10A; step up for the next round. Stone: Place one 6mm stone facedown (point up) onto a piece of paper. Use the cloth to wipe the back of the stone, removing any dust or fingerprints. Keep the threads out of the way as you center the prong tips of the setting over the back of the stone. Press the end of the dowel (or wooden needle case) down onto the back of the setting until you hear a snap (Fig. 4). The goal is to seat the stone’s edge into the little notches that are right below the prong tips. This takes firm pressure, but don’t push it too far. Round 6: Use the working thread to work tubular peyote stitch with 1A in each stitch. Step up.

MATERIALS 6 g metallic bronze size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g olive-lined light sapphire size 11° seed beads (B) 5 g metallic bronze 3mm magatama drops (C) 9 round 6mm faceted cubic zirconia, labgrown, or natural stones in light rose, rose, and amethyst 9 gold-filled 6mm 6-prong round settings Piece of paper in any color Khaki nylon beading thread Beading wax (optional)

TOOLS Small sharp scissors Size 12 and 13 beading needles ½" diameter dowel or round wooden needle case Clean, soft, cotton cloth FINISHED SIZE: 6"

Round 7: Work 1 peyote stitch with 1A.

Pass through the next down and the next up bead to make a decrease. Repeat, working 1 peyote stitch and 1 decrease around; step up (Fig. 5). Round 8: Work tubular peyote stitch with 1A in each stitch for a total of 5 beads; step up. Adjust the tension to make the beadwork roll toward the back of the setting.

back of bracelet

Fig. 1: Starting Round 2

Fig. 2: Turning a flat peyotestitched strip into a tube

clasp loop

Fig. 3: Attaching the beadwork to a prong and starting Round 5

Fig. 4: Setting the stone

Fig. 5: Round 7 decreases



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Fig. 6: Rounds 8 and 9 shown from the back of the setting

Fig. 7: Adding the size 11°s of Round 10

Fig. 8: Stitching magatamas in the ditch

Fig. 10: Adding the button shank

Round 9 (optional): Work tubular peyote

stitch with 1A in each stitch for a total of 5 beads; step up (Fig. 6). Weave through these beads again to reinforce the round. Don’t trim the thread. Note: Seed beads come in different shapes and widths, even within the same designated size. So, in most cases this round will work great, but there’s also the chance that this round could be too tight. If it’s too tight, then skip the round and simply repeat the Row 8 thread path to tighten. This approach will leave a very pretty 5-sided pattern. Row 10: Use the tail thread to work 1 round of tubular peyote stitch at the top of the beaded bezel using 1B in each stitch (Fig. 7). Secure the tail thread and trim. Magatama picots and connection loops:

Weave the working thread through beads to exit from a Round 4 bead beneath a Round 10 bead that is next to a prong. *String 3C and pass through the next Round 4 bead to “stitch in the ditch” and form a picot. Weave through the nearest bead of Round 3 and the nearest bead of Round 4 (Fig. 8). String 9A; skip the next Round 4 bead and pass through the following Round 4 bead (Fig. 9). Pass through the nearest bead of Round 3 and the nearest bead of Round 4. Repeat from * to add another magatama picot and another loop.

Fig. 9: Adding a connection loop

Fig. 11: Connecting the button shank to a link

Repeat the entire thread path to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Set the link aside. Repeat entire step six more times for a total of 7 links. Note: The bracelet shown is 6" long and fits a 5" wrist. Increase or decrease the number of links for sizing. 2) CLASP LOOP. Make 1 link to be used as the loop half of the clasp: Repeat Step 1, but use 37A for one of the loops instead of 9A. Repeat the thread path to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Set the clasp loop aside. 3) CLASP BUTTON. Make 1 link to be used as the button half of the clasp: Bezel: Repeat Step 1, omitting the magatamas and loops. Shank: Weave the working thread through beads to exit from Round 6. String 11A and pass through 1A on the opposite side of Round 6 to form a loop. String 1A, skip the last A just added, and pass back through the next 9A of the loop. String 1A and pass through the first bead exited in this step (Fig. 10). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Embellishment: Weave through beads to exit from a Round 4 bead beneath a Round 10 bead that is next to a prong. *String 3C and pass through the next Round 4 bead to “stitch in the ditch” and form a picot. Weave through the nearest

bead of Round 3 and the nearest bead of Round 4. Repeat from * four more times to form 5 picots. Repeat the thread path to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. Set the clasp button aside. 4) ASSEMBLY. Set the clasp button, links, and clasp loop into a line. Use 18" of thread to string 15A, leaving an 8" tail. Pass through the loops of the clasp button and first link. Tie the working and tail threads in a knot to form a tight circle around the loops (Fig. 11). Pass through the beads again several times to reinforce. Secure the threads and trim. Repeat entire step seven more times to connect all the components into a bracelet, taking care that the stones are facing up. ✦ CYNTHIA RUTLEDGE is a contemporary beadwork artist and teacher specializing in off-loom weaving techniques with an emphasis on developing unsupported sculptural shapes. As a teacher, Cynthia shares her expertise on the road for most of the year. Her work has been exhibited in national and international shows and has appeared in many periodicals and books, including Masters: Beadweaving: Major Works by Leading Artists (Lark Books, 2008). RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Stones and settings: Cynthia Rutledge Studio, (909) 338-0296, www.cynthiarutledge.net. Seed beads, magatamas, One-G nylon beading thread, and beading wax: Creative Castle, (877) 232-3748, www.creativecastle.com; Beads Gone Wild, (561) 649-9909, www.beadsgonewild.com; and Kandra’s Beads, (805) 686-8804, www.kandras beads.com.



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chain with charm

ROXANNE ROGERS

Square-stitch metallic links for the base of this gorgeous charm bracelet, then attach pearl-accented charms using peyote stitch and picots.

TECHNIQUES square stitch flat and tubular peyote stitch picot See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 15 g mixed metallic size 15° seed beads (A) 15 g mixed metallic size 11° seed beads (B) 39 antiqued brass 4mm crystal pearl rounds 5 platinum 4mm crystal pearl rounds 6 antiqued brass 6mm crystal pearl rounds Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread


Artist’s Tips • Make sure when joining the chain links that you reinforce the thread path several times. Reinforcing this way will ensure that the links don’t come apart. • For more sparkle, use round crystals instead of pearls.

Fig. 1: Turning square-stitch strips into links and connecting the links

1) CHAIN. Work a chain of square-stitched

Center, Round 4: Work 10 tubular peyote

links: Link: Use 2' of thread to square-stitch a strip 17B long and 2 rows wide. Fold the strip so the ends touch; square-stitch the ends together to form a ring (Fig. 1, blue thread). Repeat the entire thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim; set aside. Chain: Repeat the link, but before stitching the ends of the strip together, pass it through the previous link (Fig. 1, red thread). Repeat twenty times to form a chain with a total of 22 links.

stitches with 1A in each stitch. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1 (Fig. 3, red thread). Petal: String 15A; pass through the first A strung to form a tight circle (Fig. 4, green thread). String 1 brass 4mm pearl; pass through the 8th A just strung, pass back through the pearl, pass through the last peyote-stitched A exited, and weave through beads to exit the 8th A (Fig. 4, blue thread). String 3A; pass through the last A exited and the 9th through 15th A originally strung. Weave through beads to exit from the next A in Round 1 of the center (Fig. 4, red thread). Repeat this section nine times to form a total of 10 petals. Weave through beads to exit from the tip of the picot on the final petal. Loop: String 10A; pass through the last A exited to form a loop. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Set the large charm aside. Repeat this entire step twice for a total of 3 large charms.

2) LARGE CHARM. Use tubular peyote

stitch, picots, pearls, and A to form a f lowerlike charm: Center, Rounds 1 and 2: Use 3' of thread to string one 6mm pearl and 10A; pass through the pearl, leaving a 6" tail. String 10A; pass through the pearl again (Fig. 2, blue thread). Pass through all 20A again to form a tight circle around the pearl. Exit from the nearest A (Fig. 2, red thread). Center, Round 3: String 1A, skip 1A in the previous round, and pass through the next A; repeat nine times to add a total of 10A (Fig. 3, blue thread). Step up through the first A added in this round.

Fig. 2: Adding Rounds 1 and 2 of a large charm Fig. 3: Stitching Rounds 3 and 4 of a large charm

Fig. 4: Forming the first petal of a large charm

Fig. 5: Adding the loop to a medium charm

Fig. 6: Forming a small charm

3) MEDIUM CHARM. Repeat Step 2, this

time only forming 3 petals. Weave through beads to exit from Round 1, opposite the second petal. String 10A; pass through the last A exited to form a loop (Fig. 5). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Set the medium charm aside. Repeat this entire step twice for a total of 3 medium charms. 4) SMALL CHARM. Use 1' of thread to string 1 platinum 4mm pearl and 8A; pass through the pearl. String 8A; pass through the pearl again and the 16A to form a tight circle around the pearl (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 3A; pass through the last A exited to form a picot. Weave through beads to exit from the A on the other side of the pearl, opposite the picot (Fig. 6, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set the small charm aside. Repeat this entire step four times for a total of 5 small charms.



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5) CLASP RING. Use tubular peyote

stitch and picots to form the ring half of the clasp: Rounds 1 and 2: Use 3' of thread to string 32A; pass through the 32A again to form a tight circle, leaving a 12" tail. Round 3: String 1A, skip the next A in the previous round, and pass through the following A; repeat for a total of 16A. Step up through the first A added in this and subsequent rounds. Rounds 4 and 5: Work 16 tubular peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch in each of 2 rounds. Rounds 6–8: Place a needle on the tail thread. Work 16 tubular peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch in each of 3 rounds. Zip: Fold the beadwork so Rounds 5 and 8 interlock. Weave these beads together to form a seamless ring (Fig. 7), tying knots between beads as you go. Exit from Round 8. Picots: String 3A and pass through the next B of Round 8; repeat for a total of 16 picots. Secure the threads and trim. Set aside. Connector: Repeat the link in Step 1, this time making the strip 19B long and passing it through the center of the clasp ring before connecting it to one end of the chain (Fig. 8). Secure the thread and trim. 6) CLASP BAR. Peyote- and square-stitch

the bar half of the clasp: Strip: Use 3' of thread to peyote-stitch a strip 12B wide and 8 rows long. Zip: Fold the strip so Rows 1 and 4 interlock. Weave the beads together to form a seamless tube. Weave through beads to exit from an end B. Ends: String one 4mm pearl and 3A. *Pass back through the pearl, pass through the next B at the end of the tube, up through the following B, and through the pearl and 3A. Repeat from * to connect to each B at the tube’s end. Weave through beads to the other end of the tube and repeat this section. Exit from the 6th bead down the side of the tube. Connector: Square-stitch a strip off the center of the tube 19B long and 2B wide.

Fig. 7: Zipping the clasp ring

Fig. 9: Connecting the clasp bar to the chain

Fig. 8: Connecting the clasp ring to the chain

Slide the strip through the open link of the beaded chain. Fold the strip so the end beads touch the 6th row; securely stitch these beads together to form a ring (Fig. 9). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce; secure the thread and trim. 7) FINISHING. Stitch each charm to

the beaded chain: Large charms: Use 1' of thread to string 15A; pass through the bottom of the 2nd link, the top loop of 1 large charm, and through the 15A just strung (Fig. 10). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat to add a large charm to the 10th link and another to the 18th link. Medium charms: Repeat the large charm connection, this time attaching the medium charms to the bottom of the 6th, 14th, and 22nd links. Small charms: Place a needle on the working thread of a small charm. Stitch the charm to the bottom of the 4th link so it faces forward (Fig. 11). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat to attach small charms to the 8th, 12th, 16th, and 20th links. ✦

Figure 5

Fig. 10: Connecting a large charm to the chain

Fig. 11: Connecting a small charm to the chain

ROXANNE ROGERS is a self-taught beader who never met a bead she didn’t like. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread, Swarovski crystal pearls, and all other materials: FusionBeads .com, (888) 781-3559.



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snow in jerusalem SVETLANA DUBINSKY

The rare, picturesque beauty of snow in Jerusalem—a frosty white covering on green grass, evergreen bushes, cactus, and palms—was the inspiration for this lovely, multitechnique bracelet.

TECHNIQUES backstitch bead embroidery tubular brick stitch picot tubular peyote stitch triangle weave See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) LARGE BEZEL. Use backstitch, brick

stitch, and picots to form a bezel for the large cabochon: Preparation: Cut one 1½ × 2" piece of beading foundation and glue the large cabochon to the center. Let dry 20 minutes. Round 1: Tie a knot at the end of 3' of nylon beading thread. Pass through the beading foundation, next to the large cabochon. *String 2D; lay the beads along the edge of the cabochon, pass down through the foundation near the end of the second D, pass up through the foundation between the 2D just added, and pass through the second D. Repeat from * to backstitch around the edge of the cabochon (Fig. 1). Pass through the first D added in this round and down through the foundation. Backing: Carefully trim the excess beading foundation to 1mm from Round 1. Glue the foundation side of the cabochon to the back of one 1½ × 2" piece of leather; let dry. Carefully trim the excess leather to 1mm from Round 1. Round 2: String 2D; pass down through the foundation and leather near the exit point, then pass back through the D just added to form a brick stitch. *String 1B; pass down through the foundation and leather 1 bead’s width from the last stitch and between 2D of Round 1, then pass back through the D just added (Fig. 2). Repeat from * to brick-stitch the edge of the cabochon, making sure the total number of beads added is an even

Fig. 1: Backstitching Round 1 of the large bezel

Fig. 2: Brick-stitching Round 2 of the bezel

number. For the final stitch, pass down through the first D added in this round, up through the second D, and down through the third D so the thread exits toward the leather side of the cabochon (Fig. 3, green thread). Round 3: *String 3C; pass up through the next D of Round 2 and down through the following D so the 3C touch the leather side of the cabochon. Repeat from * around the cabochon. Step up through the second C added in this round (Fig. 3, blue thread). Round 4: String 1B and pass through the second C of the next 3C added in Round 3; repeat around the cabochon, pulling tightly so the round covers the stitching on the leather (Fig. 3, red thread). Don’t trim the thread; set the large bezel aside. 2) LARGE BEZEL FRONT. Triangle-weave a ring, then embellish it to form the front of the large bezel: Stitch 1: Use 4' of nylon beading thread to string 2F and 1I; pass through the 2F (Fig. 4, blue thread). Stitch 2: String 1F and 1G; pass through the second F of the previous stitch and the F just added (Fig. 4, red thread). Stitch 3: String 1F and 1I; pass through the F of the previous stitch and the F just added. Stitches 4–27: Repeat Stitches 2 and 3 twelve times.

MATERIALS 3 g gilt-lined white opal size 15° seed beads (A) 5 g black-lined light olive green size 15° seed beads (B) 2 g metallic brown iris size 15° seed beads (C) 3 g metallic brown iris size 11° seed beads (D) 2 g metallic olive green iris size 11° cylinder beads (E) 3 g metallic brown iris size 8° seed beads (F) 36 black diamond AB 3mm crystal bicones (G) 6 black diamond AB 4mm crystal bicones (H) 36 powder green 4mm crystal pearls (I) 12 powder green 6mm crystal pearls (J) 42 iris brown 4mm fire-polished rounds (K) 1 white 25×35mm osmina shell cabochon 2 white 16×25mm osmina shell cabochons 1 silver 17×11mm 2-loop filigree box clasp 2 × 8" piece of white leather 3 × 10" piece of white beading foundation Brown size D nylon beading thread Crystal 6 lb braided beading thread Clear crafter’s glue

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 6¾"

Stitch 28: Repeat Stitch 2, but incorporate

the end F of Stitch 1, connecting the first and last stitches, to form a ring. Weave through beads to exit down through an F on the left side of an I, toward the I (Fig. 5).

Fig. 3: Adding Rounds 3 and 4 of the bezel

Fig. 4: Forming Stitches 1 and 2 of the bezel front

Fig. 5: Adding Stitch 28 of the bezel front, forming a ring



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Artist’s Tips • If working with different-size cabochons, make small size adjustments by changing the number and/or size of beads used in the center round of Step 2. For larger adjustments, change the number of stitches worked for the triangle-weave rings. • If substituting the shell cabochons with another style, be sure the replacements are at least 10mm tall to support the bezel.

Embellishment: *String 4B; pass through

the nearest I. String 4B; pass through the next F on the ring (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 3A; pass through the next G. String 3A; pass through the following F (Fig. 6, red thread). Repeat from * thirteen times. Weave through beads to exit from 1G. Center: String 2E and pass through the next G; repeat thirteen times to form a tight ring (Fig. 7). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Assembly: Neatly and securely stitch the ring to the face of the large bezel, connecting the bezel front’s F to the D of bezel Round 1. Secure the thread and trim. Set the large bezel aside.

Fig. 6: Embellishing the bezel front

Fig. 7: Stitching the center of the bezel front

3) SMALL BEZELS. Repeat Steps 1 and 2

for each of the small cabochons, this time starting with 1¼ × 2" rectangles of beading foundation and leather. Work 22 stitches when forming the bezel fronts, using 11I and 11G for each ring.

Center: String 1B, 1H, and 1B; pass

Row 2, Stitch 4: String 1K; pass through

4) STRAPS. Triangle-weave, then embellish the straps: Row 1, Stitch 1: Use 3' of braided beading thread to string 3K; pass through the first 2K. Row 1, Stitch 2: String 1K and 1J; pass through the last K exited in the previous stitch and the first K just added. Row 1, Stitch 3: String 2K; pass through the last K exited in the previous stitch and the first K just added. Row 1, Stitches 4–7: Repeat Stitches 2 and 3 twice. Weave through beads to exit from the second K added in Stitch 7 (Fig. 8, green thread).

through the lower K of Row 1, Stitch 5. String 1B, 1H, and 1B; pass through the lower K of Row 1, Stitch 3. String 1B, 1H, and 1B; pass back through the second, first, and third K of Row 1, Stitch 7 (Fig. 8, blue thread). Row 2, Stitch 1: String 1K and 1J; pass through the last K exited and the K just added. Row 2, Stitch 2: String 1K, pass through the lower K of Stitch 3 in Row 1, the K of the previous stitch, and the K just added. Row 2, Stitch 3: String 1K and 1J; pass through the K of the previous stitch and the K just added.

the lower K of Stitch 5 in Row 1, the K of the previous stitch, and the K just added. Row 2, Stitch 5: String 1K and 1J; pass through the K of the previous stitch and the K just added. Row 2, Stitch 6: String 1K; pass through the lower K of Stitch 7 in Row 1, the K of the previous stitch, and the K just added. (Fig. 8, red thread). Connect: Match this end of the strap so it’s centered on Round 1 at the side of a small bezel. Securely stitch this K to the bezel, passing through beads of Round 2. Weave through beads to stitch the end K of Row 1, Stitch 7, to the bezel. Pass back

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Fig. 8: Forming Rows 1 and 2 of the strap



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Fig. 9: Connecting the strap to the small bezel and adding the end

through the center beads to exit up through the outside K of Row 1, Stitch 1 (Fig. 9, green thread). End: String 5B; pass through the J of Row 1, Stitch 2. Weave through beads to exit down through the outside K of Row 1, Stitch 1. String 5B; pass through the J of Row 2, Stitch 1 (Fig. 9, blue thread). Weave through beads to exit through the first 2B of the second 5B set added in this section (Fig. 9, red thread). Clasp: String the lower loop of one half of the clasp; pass back through the secondto-last B exited, the outside K, and the next 2B. String the upper loop of the clasp; pass back through the second-tolast B exited (Fig. 10). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Embellishment: Start 3' of new nylon thread that exits from the bottom K of Row 1, Stitch 1, toward the clasp. String 4A; pass through the K just exited and the side and top K of Row 1, Stitch 1. String 4A; pass through the last K exited (Fig. 11, green thread). *String 5B; pass through the nearest G. String 5B; pass through the upper-left K of the next Row 1 stitch. String 4A; pass through the bottom K of the same Row 1 stitch. String 4A; pass through the upper-right K of the same Row 1 stitch (Fig. 11, blue thread). Repeat from *. String 5B; pass through the nearest G. String 5B; pass through the upper-left K of the next Row 1 stitch. String 4A; pass through the K last exited. Make a turn to embellish the bottom of the strap in the same manner, following Fig. 11, red thread. Repeat this entire step to form a second strap.

Fig. 10: Adding one half of the clasp

Fig. 11: Embellishing the strap

Fig. 12: Connecting the small and large bezels

5) ASSEMBLY. Start 12" of new nylon

thread that exits from Round 1 at the very center of the other side of the first small bezel. String 1K; pass through the D of Round 1 at the very center of one side of the large bezel. Weave through beads to pass back through the K just added (Fig. 12, blue thread). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. In a similar fashion, add 1K above the K previously placed, then repeat the connection below the initial K, adding a total of 3K between the bezels (Fig. 12, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step to connect the other strap to the other side of the large bezel. ✦

SVETLANA DUBINSKY lives and works near Jerusalem. She started beading in 2006 and has won numerous awards in many beading competitions. Her work has also been published in the Ukrainian bead magazine Fashionable. See more of Svetlana’s work at www.biser.info/albom/9247. Contact her at [email protected]. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Similar seed beads and Delica cylinder beads: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www .beyondbeadery.com. 16×25mm cabochons, fire-polished rounds, Lacy’s Stiff Stuff beading foundation, Swarovski bicones and pearls, and E6000 glue: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com. K.O. nylon beading thread and FireLine braided beading thread: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.



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passion flower LISA KAN

Evoking late nineteenth-century jewelry design, this antiquehued, lacy netted necklace is tastefully paired with brass filigree to create a romantic, Victorian look.

TECHNIQUES tubular and circular peyote stitch flat chevron chain picot See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) COLLAR. Use 8' of thread, chevron

stitch, picot embellishment, and one- and two-drop peyote stitch to work the collar: Unit 1: String 1B, 2A, 1B, 3A, 1B, and 2A. Pass back through the first B strung to form a triangle. Unit 2: String 1A, 1 fire-polished round, 1A, 1B, and 2A. Pass back through the last B added in the previous unit. Unit 3: String 3A, 1B, and 2A. Pass back through the 1B of the previous unit (Fig. 1). Repeat Units 2 and 3 seventy-eight times. Picots: Weave through beads to exit from the end A bead next to the last fire-polished round added, toward the beadwork. String 5A and pass back through the A bead on the other side of the same fire-polished round and the A bead next to the following fire-polished round. Repeat across the collar to make a total of 79 picots below each fire-polished round (Fig. 2). The collar will begin to curve. Secure the thread and trim.

Top edging: Start 3' of thread that exits

from the first 3A at the top of the collar, toward the beadwork, leaving a 12" tail. String 1 cube and pass through the next 3A set. Repeat across, continuing in onedrop peyote stitch. Work back along the collar in the other direction in threedrop peyote stitch, using 3A in each stitch between the cubes (Fig. 3). Secure the working thread and trim; do not trim the tail thread. 2) FLOWER CLOSURE. Use 3' of thread,

tubular peyote stitch, and picot embellishment to make a flower for the clasp: Rounds 1 and 2: String 1 pearl, leaving a 6" tail. String 6B and pass through the pearl again; repeat to add 6B to the other side of the pearl (Fig. 4a). Pass through the first 6B; string 2B and pass through the second set of 6B. String 2B and pass through the adjacent 1B (Fig. 4b).

MATERIALS 7 g amethyst AB size 15° Japanese seed beads (A) 3 g amethyst gold luster size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 1 g bronze 1.5mm Japanese cubes 1 golden shadow 7.5×19mm crystal teardrop 79 copper iris 3mm fire-polished rounds 2 champagne 6mm pearls 1 natural brass 45mm filigree 8-petal flower 3 natural brass 5mm jump rings 1 natural brass 7.5×5mm filigree bead cap 1 natural brass 1½" head pin Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles Round-nose pliers Chain-nose pliers Wire cutters FINISHED SIZE: 16"

Round 3: Work one round of tubular pey-

ote stitch off the beads surrounding the pearl, using 1B in each stitch. Step up. Top picots (Round 3 embellishment):

String 3A; pass through the next 1B to form a picot (Fig. 5). Repeat around to add a total of 8 picots. Exit from Round 2.

Fig. 1: Working Units 1–3 in chevron stitch

Fig. 2: Adding picots along the bottom of the collar

Artist’s Tips • If increasing or decreasing the length of the collar, figure 10 units of chevron stitch are equal to about 1".

Fig. 3: Adding the cubes (blue thread) and sets of 3A (red thread)

• Any 6mm bead can be used for the center of the flowers. If using a different-size bead, you may need to modify the size of the button loop—just be sure to still use an odd number of beads in the first round.

a b Fig. 4: Rounds 1 and 2 of the flower closure

Fig. 5: Embellishing Round 3 with the top picots



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Fig. 6: Embellishing Round 2 with the center picots

Fig. 7: Embellishing Round 1 with the bottom picots

Fig. 8: Attaching the beaded center to the filigree flower

Center picots (Round 2 embellishment):

String 5A; pass through the next 1B in Round 2 (Fig. 6). Repeat around to add a total of 8 picots. Exit from Round 1. Bottom picots (Round 1 embellishment):

String 7A; pass through the next 1B in Round 1 (Fig. 7). Repeat around to add a total of 8 picots. Exit from Round 1. Connection: String 2A. Pass through the top end B bead on the non-tail end of the collar, pass back through the 2A just strung, and through the last B exited in Round 1. String 1A and pass through the next B in Round 1, toward the bottom of the collar. String 2A. Pass through the collar’s bottom end B, pass back through the 2A just strung, and through the last B exited in Round 1. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the working and tail threads, then trim. 3) LOOP. Weave the collar’s tail thread

through beads to exit an end B and string 37A. Pass through the opposite 1B at the end of the collar to form a loop. Work peyote stitch around the loop using 1A in each stitch. Secure the thread and trim. 74

4) PENDANT. Embellish the filigree

flower to create a pendant for the collar: Center: Repeat Step 2 to make a second

beaded flower, this time omitting the connection portion and leaving the tail thread intact. Pass the tail thread through the filigree flower from front to back, just left of its center. String 8B and pass through the flower from back to front, just right of its center. Pass through the beaded flower’s pearl and the 8B just added (Fig. 8). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Dangle: Use the head pin to string the bead cap (narrow end first) and the teardrop; form a wrapped loop. Use 1 jump ring to connect the dangle to the tip of the filigree flower’s bottom petal. Connection: Lay the filigree flower on the collar so the upper-right and upper-left petal tips touch the thirty-seventh and forty-fourth chevron units. Use jump rings to attach the petal tips to the beadwork at those points. ✦

LISA KAN is a bead and lampwork artist who channels her creative energy into a wide variety of mediums that challenge her. She enjoys designing elegant and feminine beadwork that has a vintage feel. With an eye for color and textural balance, she often combines crystals, pearls, and tiny seed beads with basic beading stitches to build complex designs. This project was inspired by the romanticism of late nineteenth-century Victorian filigree jewelry. Her use of luster-finish seed beads in subdued colors adds a touch of antiquity and harkens back to a bygone era. Lisa is the author of Bead Romantique: Elegant Beadweaving Designs (Interweave, 2008). RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Pearls: Lisa Kan Designs, lisakandesigns@ yahoo.com, www.lisakan.com. Seed beads: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com. Seed beads, cubes, Swarovski crystal teardrop, and fire-polished rounds: San Gabriel Bead Co., (626) 447-7753, www.beadcompany.com. Natural brass flower: Vintaj Natural Brass Co. (wholesale only), (815) 776-0481, www.vintaj.com. FireLine braided beading thread: Bass Pro Shops, (800) 227-7776, www.basspro.com.



2/26/14 3:22 PM

rickrack bracelet CAROLE OHL

Triangular components come together for a rickrack ribbon effect. Using contrasting colors or finishes accentuates the triangular connectors.

TECHNIQUES circular herringbone stitch circular peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


075-077 Ohl-Rickrack Bracelet.indd 75

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MATERIALS 3 g matte metallic teal iris size 14° seed beads (A) 3 g semi-matte metallic bronze iris size 11° seed beads (B) 30 matte metallic bronze 3mm cubes (C) 1 antiqued copper 13mm spiral toggle clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread


Artist’s Tips • If you want a sharper point on each triangle, add 1A between the 2A on the “points” in Round 6. • If you need to add more length, add more connector rows to each end before adding the clasp, or add another row between each triangle. You can even add more triangles, but there must be an even number in order to keep the clasp straight. • It’s possible to use 4mm cubes in this design without changing the bead counts. • Using similar colors for the cubes and the size 15°s will accentuate the color of the size 11°s. If you want a more monochromatic look, use a combination of matte and shiny colors to create a subtle contrast.

1) TRIANGLES. Stitch triangular compo-

Round 6: String 6A, pass through the next

nents using herringbone and circular peyote stitch: Round 1: Use 6' of thread to string 3C, leaving a 10" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle; pass through the beads again and exit from the first bead strung (Fig. 1, aqua thread). Round 2: String 2B and pass through the next C; repeat twice to add a total of 6B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1, orange thread). Round 3: String 2B, pass through the next B of Round 2, the next C of Round 1, and the following B of Round 2; repeat twice to add a total of 6B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1, green thread). Round 4: String 1B, pass through the next B of Round 3, string 6A, and pass through the following B of Round 3; repeat twice to add a total of 3B and 18A. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1, pink thread). Round 5: String 2B, pass through the next 6A of Round 4, string 2B, and pass through the next B of Round 4; repeat twice to add a total of 12B. Step up through the first 2B added in this round (Fig. 1, blue thread).

2B of Round 5, string 2A, and pass through the next 2B of Round 5; repeat twice to add a total of 24A (Fig. 1, red thread). Secure the thread, but don’t trim. Set the component aside. Repeat this entire step nine times using 2' of thread for a total of 10 triangles. Secure and trim the thread on all of the triangles except the first one.

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 1–6

2) CONNECTING THE TRIANGLES.

Weave the long thread from the first triangle through beads to exit a set of 6A from Round 6. String 6A and pass through the set of 6A just exited; repeat the thread path to reinforce, exiting the 6A just added. Pass through a set of 6A of Round 6 of a second triangle and through the 6A added in this step (Fig. 2). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from the other side of the triangle just added. Repeat entire step to connect all 10 triangles in a strip. Weave through beads to exit from the set of 6A of Round 6 at the end of the bracelet. Note: Use the bracelet photo to help determine where each triangle will connect. They should form a zigzag.

Fig. 2: Joining the triangles



2/26/14 3:24 PM

3) CLASP. Stitch the clasp to the bracelet: Toggle ring: String 6A, pass through the

last 6A exited, and repeat the thread path to reinforce; repeat twice to form a tab (Fig. 3, blue thread). String 3B, pass through the connector loop on the ring half of the clasp, pass back through the last B added, string 2B, and pass through the opposite end of the set of 6A just exited (Fig. 3, red thread). Repeat the thread path twice to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Toggle bar: Weave the 10" tail from the first triangle through beads to exit from the set of 6A of Round 6 at the open end of the bracelet. String 6A, pass through the 6A just exited, and repeat the thread path to reinforce; repeat twice to form a tab. String 7B, pass through the connector loop on the bar half of the clasp, pass back through the last B added, string 3B, pass back through the third B added, string 2B, and pass through the opposite side of 6A just exited (Fig. 4). Repeat the thread path twice to reinforce. Secure the threads and trim. ✦

CAROLE OHL lives in Dayton, Ohio, where she has been a freelance graphic designer since 1980. She has been beading since 2005 and has always wanted to make sculptural flowers. When she started playing with mandalas and found the teardrops in her stash, it was her “little bead dream come true,” and this project was born. Carole teaches her designs at her local bead store, The Bead Cage, in Kettering, Ohio, and sells many of her design patterns online at www.bead-patterns.com. Contact Carole at [email protected].

Fig. 3: Attaching the toggle ring

Fig. 4: Stitching the toggle bar

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread: Artbeads .com, (866) 715-2323. Miyuki seed beads: Charlene’s Beads, (760) 530-9436, www.cbbeads.com.



2/26/14 3:24 PM

this & that M E L I N DA B A R TA

Connect two quick-to-stitch strips of peyote into a bracelet using simple netting and very few materials— just a little bit of this (size 8° seeds beads) and a little bit of that (size 11° seed beads).

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES flat peyote stitch flat netting See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


078-080 Barta-This & That.indd 78

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1) FIRST STRAND. Use even-count, flat

peyote stitch and netting to work a base strand: Rows 1 and 2: Use 3' of thread to string 77D and 7A, leaving a 4" tail. Pass through the top loop on one half of the clasp and back through the last D added (Fig. 1, blue thread). Row 3: String 1D, skip 1D, and pass through the next; repeat for a total of 38D. String 7A and pass through the top loop on the other half of the clasp. Tie a knot with the tail and working threads and exit the nearest D of Row 2 (Fig. 1, red thread). Row 4: String 1D and pass through the next D of Row 2; repeat for a total of 38D (Fig. 2). Pass through the 7A of the clasp loop and exit the nearest D of Row 1 (Fig. 3, blue thread).

Row 5 (netting): String 3B and pass

MATERIALS

through the next D of Row 1, D of Row 2, and D of Row 1; repeat to add a total of 19 nets (Fig. 3, red thread). Exit the end D of Row 2. Row 6 (netting): Pass through the 7A of the clasp loop and exit the nearest D of Row 4 (Fig. 4, blue thread). String 3C and pass through the next D of Row 4, D of Row 2, and D of Row 4; repeat to add a total of 19 nets (Fig. 4, red thread). Secure the threads and trim.

1 g matte metallic light green size 11° Japanese seed beads (A) 2 g gold size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 2 g silver size 11° Japanese seed beads (C) 3 g matte metallic leaf green size 8° Japanese seed beads (D) 1 sterling silver 14×28mm 2-loop hook-andloop clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 7¼"

2

3

1

Fig. 1: Working Rows 1–3

2

3 2 4

3 4

1

1


Artist’s Tips • If adjusting the length of the bracelet, make sure the number of beads used in the peyote rows is divisible by four, plus one. • A little twisting is okay, but hold the beadwork as flat as possible while working the peyote-stitch rows to prevent the work from twisting too much.

Fig. 3: Working Row 5 off Row 1

4 3 2 1

Fig. 4: Adding Row 6 to Row 4



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Fig. 5: Connecting the 2 strands

2) SECOND STRAND. Make a second

strand that attaches to the other loop of the clasp: Rows 1–4: Repeat as for the first strand, connecting to the clasp’s bottom loop. Row 5: String 1B, pass through the nearest center B of the first strand’s Row 5, string 1B, and pass through the next D of Row 4, D of Row 2, and D of Row 4; repeat to connect all nets. Pass through the 7A of the clasp loop and exit the first D of Row 1 (Fig. 5).

Row 6: Repeat Row 5, passing through

beads of Rows 1 and 2, using C in place of D, and connecting to the center C of the first strand’s Row 6. Use tight tension to pull the 2 strands together. Note: Row 3 of both strands will form the sides of the bracelet. Secure the threads and trim. ✦

MELINDA BARTA is editor of Beadwork and author of several best-selling books, the latest of which is Mastering Herringbone Stitch: The Complete Guide (Interweave, 2014). Visit www.melinda barta.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Clasp: Objects and Elements, (206) 965-0373, www.objectsandelements.com. Seed beads and FireLine braided beading thread: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com.

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2/27/14 9:04 AM

heavenly hexagons

MIKKI FERRUGIARO

Worked in analogous colors for subtle contrast, this bracelet is reversible to complement any outfit.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUE circular peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


081-083 Ferrugiaro-Heavenly Hexagons.indd 81

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MATERIALS

1) SIDE 1 (COLOR SHADING). Form the

Rounds 10 and 11: Work 1 round with 1D

1 g hematite size 11° cylinder beads (A) 1.5 g dark steel size 11° cylinder beads (B) 2 g galvanized tarnished silver size 11° cylinder beads (C) 2.5 g dark nickel size 11° cylinder beads (D) 7 g galvanized silver size 11° cylinder beads (E) 3 g metallic bright copper size 11° cylinder beads (F) 10 dark gray 4mm crystal pearls 4 copper 4mm crystal pearls 14 silver 6mm metal bicones 1 sterling silver 18mm 2-strand slide-lock clasp Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

first side of the hexagon, working from the inside out in circular peyote stitch and following Fig. 1 and Fig. 2: Round 1: Use 6' of thread to string 6A; pass through all the beads again to form a tight circle, leaving a 6" tail. Round 2: String 1A and pass through the next A from the previous round; repeat around to add a total of 6A. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead of the current round (Fig. 1). Round 3: Work 2A in each stitch for a total of 12A. Rounds 4 and 5: Work 1 round with 1B in each stitch, splitting the 2A of Round 3. Repeat to add a total of 12B in each round. Round 6: Work 1B in each stitch for the odd stitches and 2B in each stitch for the even stitches for a total of 18B. Note: Notice that these and subsequent increases will line up with those from previous rounds and cause the hexagonal shape to form. Rounds 7 and 8: Work 1 round with 1C in each stitch, splitting the 2B of Round 6. Repeat to add a total of 18C in each round. Round 9: Work 1 stitch with 2C and 2 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Repeat around for a total of 24C.

in each stitch, splitting the 2C of Round 9. Repeat to add a total of 24D in each round. Round 12: Work 3 stitches with 1D in each stitch and 1 stitch with 2D. Repeat around for a total of 30 beads. Rounds 13 and 14: Work 1 round with 1E in each stitch, splitting the 2D of Round 12. Repeat to add a total of 30E in each round (Fig. 2).


Artist’s Tip To make the bracelet ½" smaller, change the 6mm bicones to 4mm bicones. To make it ½" larger, change them to 8mm bicones.

Fig. 1: Starting Rounds 1 and 2 of Side 1

2) SIDE 2 (SWIRL PATTERN). Form the

second side of the hexagon, working from the outside in circular peyote stitch and following Fig. 3 and Fig. 4: Round 15: Work 1E in each stitch except form decreases (don’t add a bead) in the third, eighth, thirteenth, eighteenth, twenty-third, and twenty-eighth stitches for a total of 24 beads. Unless otherwise noted, step up for the next round, and all subsequent rounds, by passing through the first bead of the current round (Fig. 3). Note: As you work this round, the work will curve inward. Round 16: Work 1 bead in each stitch in this color order: 1E, 4F, 4E, 4F, 4E, 4F, and 3E. Step up through the first bead added in this round. Round 17: Work 1 bead in each stitch, adding the same color bead as the last one exited for a total of 24 beads. Step up through the second bead added in this

— — — — — — — — — — — — — —

Round 1 = Round 2 = Round 3 = Round 4 = Round 5 = Round 6 = Round 7 = Round 8 = Round 9 = Round 10 = Round 11 = Round 12 = Round 13 = Round 14 =

Fig. 2: The shaded pattern of Side 1

Fig. 3: Working Round 15, the start of Side 2



2/26/14 3:26 PM

Fig. 4: The swirl pattern of Side 2

Round 16 = Round 17 = Round 18 = Round 19 = Round 20 = Round 21 = Round 22 = Round 23 = Round 24 = Round 25 = Round 26 =

— — — — — — — — — — —

round. Note: From now on, you’ll always add the same color bead as the last one exited. Round 18: Work 3 stitches with 1 bead in each stitch, then form a decrease by passing through the next bead from the previous round; repeat five times to add a total of 18 beads. Round 19: Work 2 stitches with 1 bead in each stitch, then string 1 bead, skip over the decrease from the previous round, and pass through the following bead from the previous round; repeat five times to add a total of 18 beads. Round 20: Work 1 bead in each stitch for a total of 18 beads. Round 21: Work 1 stitch with 1 bead, then form a decrease by passing through the next bead from the previous round. Work 2 stitches with 1 bead in each stitch, then form a decrease by passing through the next bead from the previous round; repeat four times, then work 1 stitch with 1 bead for a total of 12 beads. Round 22: String 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round (covering the decrease), then work 1 stitch with 1 bead; repeat around to add a total of 12 beads. Round 23: Work 1 bead in each stitch for a total of 12 beads. Round 24: Work 1 stitch with 1 bead, then form a decrease by passing through the

Fig. 5: Joining the hexagons

next bead from the previous round; repeat five times to add a total of 6 beads. Round 25: String 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round (covering the decrease), then work 1 stitch with 1 bead; repeat around for a total of 6 beads. Round 26: Work 1 bead in each stitch for a total of 6 beads (Fig. 4). Pass through the beads added in this round again to tighten and reinforce. Pearl: Pass up through the center of the hexagon to the first side. String 1 gray pearl, pass back through the center hole, and pass through the 6 center beads again. Repeat this step to secure the pearl in the center of Side 1. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 five times for a total of 6 hexagons. 3) JOINING THE HEXAGONS. Start 12" of new thread that exits a bead at one corner of a hexagon. String 1 bicone and pass through a bead at one corner of a second hexagon, making sure the pearls are on the same side. Weave through the 4 corner beads to turn the thread around to pass back through the bicone. Repeat the thread path several times to secure. Weave through beads to exit from the next corner. In the same manner, connect the nearest corner of the second hexagon (Fig. 5).

Fig. 6: Adding the clasp

Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step to join all the hexagons in a line. 4) CLASP. Start 12" of new thread that

exits a corner of an end hexagon. String 1 bicone and pass through the top loop of one clasp half, front to back. String 1 copper pearl and pass back through the clasp loop. String 1 gray pearl, pass through the clasp loop, and back through the bicone. Weave through the 4 corner beads of the hexagon to turn the thread. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Weave through beads at the end of the hexagon to exit the next corner; attach to the second clasp loop in the same manner as the first (Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim. Repeat entire step at the other end of the bracelet to secure the other clasp half. ✦ MIKKI FERRUGIARO discovered beadweaving in 2008. Self-taught, she now teaches others; sells her work in galleries; sells kits and patterns of her original designs online (www.mikkiferrugiarodesigns.artfire .com); and blogs about her beading experiences at www.thebeadedcarpet.blogspot.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: All Delica cylinder beads: Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323. Clasp: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 423-2319, www.firemountaingems.com.



2/26/14 3:26 PM

go for baroque

MELANIE POTTER

Use peyote stitch and netting to create this holiday-ready pendant inspired by the extravagant and elegant Baroque period of Italy in the 1700s.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES tubular peyote stitch circular and flat netting picot See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


084-087 Potter-Go For Baroque.indd 84

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1) LARGE BEZEL. Work netting and

peyote stitch to form a bezel for the large rivoli: Round 1: Use 4' of thread to string 10A, leaving an 8" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle; exit from the first A strung. Round 2, Loop 1: String {1B and 3A} four times for a total of 16 beads. Pass back through the first B and the next A in Round 1 (Fig. 1). Round 2, Loop 2: String 1B and 3A; pass back through the nearest B of the previous net (Fig. 2, blue thread). String 3A, 1B, 3A, 1B, and 3A; pass back through the first B added in this loop and the next A in Round 1 (Fig. 2, red thread). Round 2, Loops 3–9: Repeat Loop 2 seven more times to form a total of 9 loops. Round 2, Loop 10: String 1B and 3A; pass back through the nearest B of the ninth loop. String 3A, 1B, and 3A; pass back through the nearest B of the first loop. String 3A; pass back through the first B added in this loop and through the next A in Round 1 (Fig. 3, blue thread). Weave through beads to exit the third B of Loop 1 (Fig. 3, red thread).

Fig. 1: Adding Loop 1 of the large bezel

Round 3: String 5A and pass through the

MATERIALS

B at the tip of the next loop; repeat around to add a total of 50A. Exit from the first 5A (Fig. 4, black thread). Round 4: String 1A, skip 1B (a loop bead), and pass through the next A from Round 3. Continue around in tubular peyote stitch with 1A in each stitch for a total of 30A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 4, green thread). Round 5: Work 1 peyote stitch with 1A, then pass through the next 2A from the previous round to form a decrease; repeat around to add a total of 15A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 4, orange thread). Round 6: Place the 18mm rivoli inside the beadwork faceup. Work tubular peyote stitch with 2B in each stitch for a total of 30B. Step up through the first 2B added in this round (Fig. 4, blue thread). Round 7: Work tubular peyote stitch with 1B in each stitch, treating each 2B in the previous round as 1 bead, for a total of 15B (Fig. 4, red thread). Round 8 (optional): If necessary, to tighten the rivoli in place, work tubular peyote stitch with 1B in each stitch for a total of 15B.

4 g platinum-lined clear size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g amethyst-lined clear size 15° seed beads (B) 1 g hematite 2mm rounds (C) 2 g silver 3mm drops (D) 4 foil-backed medium vitrial 8mm (size SS39) crystal pointed-back cabochons 1 foil-backed medium vitrial 18mm crystal rivoli Clear 4 lb braided beading thread Beading wax Chain or rope necklace for hanging the pendant

TOOLS Scissors Chain- or flat-nose pliers Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 1 × 2" (pendant)

Round 9: Weave through beads to exit the

first A in Round 3. String 3C, skip 3A of Round 3, and pass through the next A, then string 1D, skip the next B (at the tip of a loop), and pass through the following A of Round 3 (Fig. 5); repeat around to embellish the edge of the rivoli. Secure the thread and trim. Set the large bezel aside.

Fig. 2: Adding Loop 2

Fig. 3: Completing Loop 10 of the large bezel

Fig. 4: Completing Rounds 3–7 of the large bezel

Fig. 5: Embellishing the large bezel



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Fig. 8: Working Round 4 of the small bezel Fig. 6: Completing Round 2 of the small bezel

Fig. 9: Embellishing the small bezel

Fig. 7: Working Round 3 of the small bezel

Fig. 10: Adding the small bezel-embellishment picot

Fig. 11: Stitching the bail strip

2) SMALL BEZEL. Work netting and pey-

Round 3: String 1B and pass through the

Loop 3: String 3B and pass back through

ote stitch to bezel a small cabochon: Round 1: Use 3' of thread to string 8A, leaving an 8" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle; exit from the first A strung. Round 2, Loop 1: String 1B, 1A, 1B, 4A, 1B, and 1A; pass back through the first B added and the next A of Round 1. Round 2, Loop 2: String 1B and 1A and pass back through the nearest B from the previous loop. String 4A, 1B, and 1A; pass back through the first B added in this loop and the next A of Round 1. Round 2, Loops 3–7: Repeat Loop 2 five more times to form a total of 7 loops. Round 2, Loop 8: String 1B and 1A and pass through the nearest B from the previous loop. String 4A and pass back through the second B in Loop 1. String 1A and pass back through the first B added in this loop (Fig. 6, blue thread). Weave through beads to exit 2A at the edge of Loop 1 (Fig. 6, red thread).

2A at the edge of the next loop; repeat around to add a total of 8B (Fig. 7). Step up through the first B added in this round. Round 4: Place a 6mm cabochon in the beadwork faceup. String 2A and pass through the next B of Round 3; repeat around to add a total of 16A, securing the cabochon inside the beadwork (Fig. 8). Weave through beads to exit from a B in Round 3.

the ninth bead (a B) of the previous loop. String 3B, 1D, and 6B; pass back through the first B added in this loop and through the next A in Round 3 (skipping the B). Loop 4: String 3B and pass back through the twelfth bead (a B) of the previous loop. String 2B, 1D, and 4B; pass back through the first B added in this loop and through the next A in Round 3. Loop 5: String 2B and pass back through the tenth bead (a B) of the previous loop. String 1B, 1D, and 3B; pass back through the first B added in this loop and the previous 2A in Round 3 (Fig. 9). Picot: String 1B, 1D, and 1B; pass back through the previous A in Round 3 (Fig. 10). Don’t trim the thread; set the small bezel aside. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 three times for a total of 4 small bezels.

86

3) SMALL BEZEL EMBELLISHMENT.

Work netting off the edge of the small bezel: Loop 1: String 4B, 1D, and 3B; pass back through the first B just added and through the next A in Round 3. Loop 2: String 2B and pass back through the seventh bead (a B) of the previous loop. String 2B, 1D, and 5B; pass back through the first B added in this loop and through the next A in Round 3.



2/26/14 3:30 PM

Artist’s Tips • You can use 3mm rounds in place of the 2mm rounds for a bolder look on the large bezel. • Instead of using a purchased chain or rope, bead a thick chain using spiral rope or peyote. A chain that is 3mm or 4mm in diameter looks great.

Fig. 12: Zipping the strip into a bail

Fig. 13: Attaching a small and large bezel

Fig. 14: Connecting the remaining small bezels

4) BAIL. Form a bail for hanging the

Zip: Fold the strip so the final row touches

pendant:

Round 1 of the bezel. Work a peyotestitch thread path to turn the strip into a loop (Fig. 12). Weave through beads to exit Round 2, opposite the bail connection. Connect: Stitch the small bezel to a B at the tip of one of the large bezel’s loops, repeating the thread path to reinforce (Fig. 13). Secure the bail’s thread and trim.

Strip: Weave the working thread of 1 small

bezel through an A in Round 3 so the thread exits over the first B added in Loop 3, toward the back of the cabochon. Flip the piece over and work a strip of odd-count peyote stitch off the bezel that’s 3A wide and 17 rows long or long enough to fit over the rope or chain (Fig. 11). Embellish (optional): Exit from an A at the edge of the strip. String 3A, pass down through the next A at the edge of the strip, and pass up through the following A; repeat down both sides of the strip to add a picot edging. Weave through the beads to exit from the A in the final row of the strip.

back of pendant

5) FINISHING. Attach the 3 remaining small bezels to the large bezel and to each other by first following Fig. 14’s blue thread, then following the red thread. Note: Be sure to connect the small bezels underneath the large bezel's embellishment round. Repeat the thread paths several times to reinforce. Secure all threads and trim. Slide the bail onto the necklace. ✦

MELANIE POTTER lives on the central coast of California with her husband, Scott. She revels in the beauty of this area and spends time outside hiking, walking, swimming, and sometimes just resting in her hammock. Her favorite inspiration for her beadwork designs comes from nature’s beauty and especially that of flowers. Along the many local trails is awe-inspiring scenery as well as myriad flowers to gaze upon. View more of Melanie’s work at www .melaniepotter.com and learn about her bead retreats at www.schoolofbeadwork.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed beads, magatama drops, FireLine braided beading thread, Swarovski crystal rivoli: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyond beadery.com. Kits and Swarovski article #1028 Xilion Chaton crystal cabochons: School of Beadwork, (805) 440-2613, www.schoolofbeadwork.com. Necklaces: Rio Grande, (800) 545-6566, www.riogrande.com.



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petite pearls toggle C S I L L A C S I R M A Z

Use this lovely beaded toggle clasp to finish off any of your favorite projects or string it with the pearls and crystals featured here. Graduated sizes of beads worked in tubular peyote stitch form a sturdy dimensional ring.

TECHNIQUES

MAIN COLORWAY

tubular and flat peyote stitch stringing See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


088-090 Csirmaz-Petite Pearls Toggle.indd 88

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1) TOGGLE RING. Use tubular peyote

stitch to make a band of different-sized seed beads. Curl the band into a tubular ring with the small beads on the inside; zip the small beads to close the ring: Rounds 1 and 2: Leaving a 6" tail, use 3' of thread to string {1A and 1B} twentyfour times for a total of 48 beads. Tie the working and tail threads to form a circle. Exit from 1B (Fig. 1). Round 3: Work tubular peyote stitch with 1F in each stitch for a total of 24F. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round. Round 4: Work 1E in each stitch for a total of 24E. Round 5: Work 1 stitch with 1E and 1 stitch with 1G; repeat around for a total of 12E and 12G. Round 6: Work 1F in each stitch for a total of 24F. Round 7: Work 1B in each stitch for a total of 24B. Round 8: Work 1A in each stitch for a total of 24A.

Rounds 9 and 10: Work 1C in each stitch

MATERIALS

for a total of 24C in each of the 2 rounds (Fig. 2). Zip: Exit 1C of Round 10. Curl the beadwork into a ring so Rounds 1 and 10 interlock like a zipper. Weave these beads together to form a seamless ring (Fig. 3). Secure the thread and trim.

1 g yellow-lined amber size 15° seed beads (A) 1 g light bronze metallic size 15° seed beads (B) 1 g green metallic size 15° seed beads (C) 1 g light bronze metallic size 11° seed beads (D) 1 g gold luster size 11° cylinder beads (E) 1 g opaque green metallic luster size 11° cylinder beads (F) 1 g gold luster size 10° cylinder beads (G) 32 green iris 6×6–7mm potato pearls 30 golden shadow 4mm crystal bicones Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

2) TOGGLE BAR. Use even-count, flat peyote stitch to form a toggle bar (Fig. 4): Rows 1 and 2: Use 3' of thread to string 14E. Rows 3 and 4: Work 1F in each stitch for a total of 7F in each of the 2 rows. Rows 5 and 6: Work 1E in each stitch for a total of 7E in each of the 2 rows. Row 7: Work 1F in each stitch for a total of 7F. Row 8: Work 1A in each stitch for a total of 7A. Row 9: Work 1D in each stitch for a total of 7D. Row 10: Work 1C in each stitch for a total of 7C.

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 or 13 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 6½"

Editors’ Tip To keep the beadwork firm, use tight tension when stitching the ring.

1 2

7

3 5 7

3 5 7 9 11 13

2

8

Fig. 1: Working Rounds 1 and 2 of the toggle ring

8 10

1

6

9

1

9

4

6

3 5

10 Fig. 2: Stitching the toggle ring

9

4

Fig. 3: Zipping the inside of the ring

8

10 11 12 13 14 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

2 4 6 8 10 12 14

Fig. 4: Toggle bar’s bead pattern

Fig. 5: Zipping the ends of the toggle bar



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option Use the toggle ring to create an eye-catching pendant. Embellish the toggle ring by stringing a seed-bead-andcrystal center and adding pearl and crystal dangles and fringe. Fig. 6: Embellishing the toggle-bar end

Rows 11 and 12: Work 1E in each stitch for

a total of 7E in each of the 2 rows. Rows 13 and 14: Work 1F in each stitch for a total of 7F in each of the 2 rows. Zip: Exit from the first F in Row 13, toward the edge. Fold the beadwork so the beads of Rows 1 and 14 interlock like a zipper. Weave these beads together into a seamless tube (Fig. 5). Weave through beads to exit an end F of Row 13, away from the beadwork. End embellishment: String 3B, 1 pearl, and 3B. Pass down into the edge F of Row 3 on the opposite side of the tube. Pass up through the edge E of Row 5. String 3B, pass back through the pearl, string 3B, and pass down through the edge E of Row 11 (Fig. 6). Repeat the thread path to secure. Weave through beads to exit the other end of the tube and add a pearl in the same manner. Secure the thread and trim.

2 crystal sections. Pass through an E or G of the ring’s Round 5. Weave through beads to exit an adjacent bead of Round 5 and pass back through the strand to exit the first D added. String 4B and pass through the center F of the bar’s Row 14 (Fig. 7). Secure the thread and trim. Strands 2 and 3: Add 2 more strands, 1 on each side of Strand 1, that connect to adjacent seed beads of Row 14 in the bar and Round 5 of the ring. Begin each strand with a section of crystals (instead of pearls) for a varied pattern. ✦

Artist’s Tips • For a wider bracelet, string additional strands. String 2D where the additional side strands connect to the ring to accommodate the curve of the ring. • To strengthen the toggle bar, place a trimmed toothpick inside of the beaded tube before working the second end embellishment. CSILLA CSMIRAZ has been making beaded jewelry for four years. Her favorite beads include Japanese seed beads and crystals, but she hopes to learn to make her own lampworked beads one day. By nationality Hungarian, she now lives in London. Visit her website, www.beadtimes.co.uk, and e-mail her at [email protected]. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Pearls: Buffy’s Beads, www.buffysbeads .com. Delica cylinder beads, FireLine braided beading thread, and all other materials: JBS Beads, www.jbsbeads.co.uk. Similar materials: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.

3) STRINGING. Join the toggle bar and

Fig. 7: Working the strands

90

ring with strands of seed beads, pearls, and crystals: Strand 1: Begin 3' of thread that exits the center F of Row 14 of the toggle bar. String 4B, 1D, 3B, and 1D. *String {1 pearl and 1D} five times. String {1 crystal and 1D} five times. Repeat from * for a total of 2 pearl sections and



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jasmine pearls

NANCY CAIN

Create this stunning Japanese-inspired necklace with silvery beaded beads that resemble pearls.

TECHNIQUES tubular peyote stitch tubular herringbone stitch tubular netting stringing See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS

FOCAL

5 g palladium-plated size 15° Japanese seed beads (A) 16 g 24k gold-plated size 15° Japanese seed beads (B) 4 g palladium-plated size 11° Japanese seed beads (C) 2 g 24k gold-plated size 11° Japanese seed beads (D) 9 rosaline gold 4mm crystal bicones 5 gray 4mm crystal pearl rounds White and yellow size D nylon beading thread Beading wax (optional)

1) BEADED BEAD. Work tubular peyote

Side 1, Round 9: Work 1 stitch with 2A

stitch to form a beaded bead: Side 1, Rounds 1 and 2: Use 6' of white thread to string 36A, leaving a 3' tail. Pass through the beads again to form a circle and exit through the first 2A. Side 1, Round 3: Work 18 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Work the beads tight and flat. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in each round. Side 1, Round 4: Work 18 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Pull tight to form a tube. Side 1, Round 5: Work 18 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Side 1, Round 6: Work 5 stitches with 1A in each stitch and pass through the next A from Rounds 4 and 5 to form a decrease (Fig. 1); repeat twice. Side 1, Round 7: Work 4 stitches with 1A in each stitch, then work 1 stitch with 2A over the decrease in Round 6 (Fig. 2); repeat twice. Step up through the first A added in this round (a single A). Side 1, Round 8: Work 1 stitch with 1A. Form a decrease; work 1 stitch with 1A and another stitch with 1A, treating the 2A from Round 7 as one bead. *Work 2 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Form a decrease; work 1 stitch with 1A and another stitch with 1A, treating the 2A from Round 7 as one bead. Repeat from * once. Work 1 stitch with 1A (Fig. 3, black thread).

over the decrease from Round 8, 1 stitch with 1A, 1 stitch with 1A over the next decrease from Round 8, and 1 stitch with 1A; repeat twice. Step up through the first 2A added in this round (Fig. 3, brown thread). Side 1, Round 10: Use tight tension to work 12 stitches with 1A in each stitch, treating each set of 2A from Round 9 as one bead (Fig. 3, orange thread). Side 1, Round 11: Work 1 stitch with 1A, form a decrease, work 1 stitch with 1A, and 1 stitch with 1A over the decrease from Round 9; repeat twice (Fig. 3, pink thread). Side 1, Round 12: Work 9 stitches with 1A in each stitch, always adding only 1A over the decreases from Round 11 (Fig. 3, green thread). Side 1, Round 13: Work 1 stitch with 1A, form a decrease, and work 1 stitch with 1A; repeat twice (Fig. 3, blue thread). Side 1, Round 14: Work 1 stitch with 1A and, without adding a bead, pass through the next up bead to form a decrease; repeat twice (Fig. 3, red thread). Don’t pass through these beads again; it’s important to leave a small hole in the beadwork here. Secure the working thread and trim.

TOOLS No Tangle thread bobbin or small reclosable plastic bag Scissors Size 12 beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 19" (necklace); 2" (focal)

Fig. 1: Forming the first decrease on Round 6 14 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4


13

Fig. 3: Stitching Side 1, Rounds 8–14

92



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Side 2

Side 1

{

{

9 6 4 2 1 3 5 7 9

7

8

5 3 1

Fig. 4: Stitching Side 2, Rounds 1–9

2 4 6 8

10 11 12 14

13

Side 2, Round 1: Use the tail thread to

work 1A, then form a decrease. Work 5 stitches with 1A in each stitch, then form a decrease; repeat once. Work 4 stitches with 1A in each stitch. Note: Cup the first half of the beaded bead with three fingers and a thumb while stitching (Fig. 4, black thread). Side 2, Round 2: Work 1 stitch with 2A over the decrease from the previous round, then work 4 stitches with 1A in each stitch; repeat twice. Step up through the first 2A added in this round (Fig. 4, yellow thread). Side 2, Round 3: Work 2 stitches with 1A in each stitch, form a decrease, work 1 stitch with 1A, then work another stitch with 1A, treating the 2A from the previous round as one bead; repeat twice (Fig. 4, brown thread). Side 2, Round 4: Work 1 stitch with 1A, 1 stitch with 2A over the decrease from the previous round, 1 stitch with 1A, and 1 stitch with 1A over the next decrease from the previous round; repeat twice (Fig. 4, purple thread). Side 2, Round 5: Use tight tension to work 12 stitches with 1A in each stitch, treating each set of 2A from the previous round as one bead (Fig. 4, orange thread). Side 2, Round 6: Work 1 stitch with 1A over the 2A from Round 4; work 1 stitch with 1A, form a decrease, and work 1 stitch with 1A; repeat twice (Fig. 4, green thread).

Fig. 5: Assembling the focal

Fig. 6: Starting Side 1 of the rope

Side 2, Round 7: Work 9 stitches with 1A

Round 2: String 1B, 2D, 1 bicone, 2D, and

in each stitch (Fig. 4, pink thread). Side 2, Round 8: Work 2 stitches with 1A

and form a decrease; repeat twice (Fig. 4, blue thread). Side 2, Round 9: Without adding a bead, pass through the next up bead. Work 1 stitch with 1A; repeat twice (Fig. 4, red thread). Leave a small hole. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this entire step three times for a total of 4 beaded beads. 2) FOCAL ASSEMBLY. Assemble 3 beaded

beads into a focal: Round 1: Begin 2' of new white thread that

exits Round 13 of 1 beaded bead. Pass through the beaded bead’s center to exit the opposite hole. String {1D, 1 pearl, 1D, and 1 beaded bead}; repeat once. String 1D, 1 pearl, and 1D; pass through the first beaded bead (Fig. 5, blue thread). Repeat the thread path twice to reinforce. Exit from a beaded bead.

1B, then pass through next beaded bead; repeat twice (Fig. 5, red thread) and repeat the thread path twice to reinforce. Exit from a beaded bead. Rounds 3 and 4: Repeat Round 2 twice, laying each strand on either side of Round 2. Set the focal aside. ROPE 3) CONNECTOR END, SIDE 1. Work

tubular herringbone stitch to form the curved end of the rope that will attach to the focal: Round 1 (starter base): Cut 8' of yellow thread and wind half of it onto a bobbin or put in a reclosable bag. String 4B and pass through all again to form a circle, making sure not to pierce the thread. These are the starter beads. Note: Redo this if the circle of beads doesn’t slide, since these beads need to be removed later.



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Round 2: String 2C and pass through the

next B in Round 1; repeat. String 2B and pass through the next B in Round 1; repeat. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing up through the first C added in this round (Fig. 6, blue thread). Note: Be careful not to pierce the base thread. Rounds 3–27: Work 2 stitches with 2C in each stitch, then work 2 stitches with 2B in each stitch, and step up through the first C added in this round (Fig. 6, red thread); repeat for a total of 27 rounds. Round 28: Work 1 stitch with 2C, pass down through the column to Round 26, and up through Round 26 of the next column; repeat once, then repeat again using 2B in each of the next 2 stitches. Round 29: Work 1 stitch with 2C, but before passing up through the next column, string 1B, and pass up through the first bead of the next column; repeat once, then repeat twice more using 2B in each stitch and working 1B between the columns (Fig. 7, green thread). Round 30: String 2C, pass down through 2 beads in the next column and the nearest B, and up through the nearest 2 beads in the following column; repeat once, then repeat twice more using 1B in each stitch (Fig. 7, blue thread). Round 31: String 1C, pass down through 3 beads in the next column and the nearest B, and up through the nearest 3 beads in the following column; repeat

Fig. 7: Stitching Rounds 29–31

94

once (Fig. 7, red thread). Secure the working thread and trim. Note: This flared end will connect to the focal. 4) NETTING, SIDE 1. Transition to tubular netting to embellish the rope: Round 1: Remove the tail thread from the bobbin or bag. Remove the 4 Round 1 starter beads. Exiting the first C of the first C column, string 1C, pass down through the next C, and up through the following one. String 1B, pass down through the next B, and up through the following one; repeat once. String 1B, pass down through the next C, and up through the first C of the first C column. Step up through the first C added in this round (Fig. 8, green thread). Round 2: String 2C and 1B; pass through the next B of the previous round. String 3B and pass through the next B of the previous round; repeat once. String 3B and pass through the next C of the previous round. Step up through the first 2C added for this and each consecutive round (Fig. 8, blue thread). Round 3: String 2C and 1B; pass through the middle B of the next net from the previous round. String 3B and pass through the middle B of the following net; repeat once. String 3B and pass through the middle C of the next net added in the previous round. Step up through the first 2C added in this round (Fig. 8, red thread).

Fig. 8: Transitioning to netting

Rounds 4–21: Repeat Round 3 to form a

total of 21 rounds. Note: To check, count 42 spiraling C beads along the spine. 5) HERRINGBONE, SIDE 1. Convert to herringbone stitch to complete the rope: Round 1: String 3B and pass through the middle B of the next net from the previous round; repeat twice. String 3B and pass through the middle C of the next net from the previous round. Step up through the first 2B added in this round (Fig. 9, green thread). Round 2: String 2B and pass through the middle B of the next net from the previous round; repeat three times. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 9, blue thread). Round 3: String 2B, pass down through the next B from the previous round, and up through the following B; repeat three times to work tubular herringbone stitch. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 9, red thread). Rounds 4 and on: Repeat Round 3 until the herringbone-stitched section is 7" long. Don’t trim the thread; set the rope aside. 6) SIDE 2. Repeat Step 3. Remove the tail

from the bobbin or bag and remove the 4 Round 1 starter beads. Work herringbone stitch for 9" using 2B in each stitch. Don’t trim the thread; set the rope aside.

Fig. 9: Transitioning to herringbone stitch



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Fig. 10: Adding the clasp bead

Fig. 11: Adding the clasp loop

7) CLASP BEAD. Form the bead end of a

bead/loop clasp: Round 1: Use the working thread of the Side 1 rope to string 1B, then pass down through the next B of the previous round, and up through the following B; repeat three times and step up through the first B added in this round. Round 2: String 1B and pass through the next B of the previous round; repeat three times. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Bead: String 2C, 1 pearl, 1 beaded bead, 1 pearl, and 1B; pass back through the pearl, beaded bead, and pearl. String 2C and pass down through a B on the opposite side of Round 2 (Fig. 10). Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 8) CLASP LOOP. Use the working thread of the Side 2 rope to repeat Step 7, Rounds 1 and 2. String 2C and 48B; pass back through the second C just added. String 1C and pass down through a B on the opposite side of Round 2 (Fig. 11).

Fig. 12: Attaching the focal and joining the ropes

Check to make sure the loop fits over the beaded bead and make adjustments as necessary. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. 9) FINISHING. Attach the ropes to the

focal and to one another: Focal: Begin 18" of new white thread that

exits a C of Round 31 of one of the ropes, toward the second C column. Lay the focal on the work surface so there are 2 beaded beads at the top and 1 at the bottom. Position the ends of the curved portion of the ropes on either side of the top of the focal so the ends hug the upper left and right corners. Allow the rope with the netted portion to lie on top of the other rope. Stitch into the beaded bead and back into the nearest C in Round 30. Follow the herringbonestitched thread path to exit from a B in Round 29 and back down the next column to exit from Round 30. Stitch into the beaded bead and back into the nearest C in Round 31. Weave through beads

Make a pair of matching earrings.

to connect the B at the end of the rope in the same manner. Secure the thread and trim. Repeat this section to attach the second rope to the other side of the focal (Fig. 12, blue thread). Ropes: Begin 8" of new yellow thread that exits the second C of Step 4, Round 2 (the beginning of the netted section on Side 1). Adjust the ropes to find the best stitching attachment point, be sure to hide the thread between the ropes, and securely stitch the ropes together (Fig. 12, red thread). Secure the thread and trim. ✦ NANCY CAIN has beaded since 1990, and her work has appeared in national and international beadwork exhibitions. She teaches her bead-craft workshops throughout the United States, Japan, and Europe. Peyote stitch, herringbone stitch, and netting are her three favorite stitches and are all beautifully combined in this project. She considers them “sister stitches,” since they blend so effortlessly. Visit Nancy’s website, www.nancycain.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystal bicones, crystal pearls, One-G nylon beading threads, and all other materials: Creative Castle, (877) 232-3748, www.creativecastle.com.



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miriam bangle JEAN POWER

Inspired by a piece by Miriam Haskell, this memory-wire–supported bangle uses simple beading techniques to encase a rivoli at each end.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES tubular peyote stitch wireworking See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BEZEL 1. Work tubular peyote stitch to

bezel a rivoli: Rounds 1–2: Use 6' of thread to string

36D, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the first D strung to form a circle. Round 3: Work 1A in each stitch for a total of 18A. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round (Fig. 1). Rounds 4–5: Work 1B in each stitch for a total of 18B in each of the 2 rounds. Weave through beads to exit Round 1. Round 6: Work 1D in each stitch for a total of 18D. Round 7: Insert 1 rivoli into the beadwork facedown. Work 1C in each stitch for a total of 18C. Round 8: Work 1B in each stitch for a total of 18B (Fig. 2). Round 9: Work 1 stitch with 1B, then work 4 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Pass through the next up bead from the previous round to form a decrease. Work 5 stitches with 1C in each stitch, then form a decrease; repeat once (Fig. 3).

Round 10: Work 1 stitch with 1B, then

MATERIALS

work 14 stitches with 1C in each stitch (Fig. 4, blue thread path). Round 11: Work 1 stitch with 1B, then 2 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Pass through the next 2 up beads from the previous round to form 2 decreases, then work 1C in each of 3 stitches; repeat once (Fig. 4, red thread path). Round 12: Work 1 stitch with 1B, then 8 stitches with 1C in each stitch (Fig. 5, blue thread path). Round 13: Work 1 stitch with 1B, then 5 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Note: The second, fourth, and sixth beads will bridge over large gaps (Fig. 5, red thread path).

1 g clear lavender size 15° cylinder beads (A) 2 g gunmetal-lined clear size 15° seed beads (B) 9 g galvanized silver size 15° seed beads (C) 2 g galvanized silver size 11° cylinder beads (D) 2 foil-backed violet 14mm crystal rivolis White size D nylon beading thread Silver bracelet-size memory wire (2 rings long)

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle Memory-wire cutters Round-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: Adjustable

Artist’s Tips • Always make sure you step up at the end of your rounds to be in the correct place to continue. • When working the rope, you know you’re ready to step up for the next round when you reach a B bead. • Forming the wire loops so they sit perpendicular to the memory wire makes it possible for the rivolis to sit facing up and away from your wrist rather than pointing toward each other. Fig. 3: Adding Round 9 of the bezel

Fig. 1: Stitching Round 3 of the bezel

8 6 2 4

7 1 3 5


Fig. 4: Stitching Rounds 10 and 11 of the bezel

Fig. 5: Adding Rounds 12 and 13 of the bezel



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2) ROPE. Stitching right off the bezel,

Editors’ Tip

work 1 stitch with 1B and 5 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Repeat until the rope is 12" or long enough to wrap the wrist twice. Set the beadwork aside.

Use mint and forest green beads combined with a crystal AB rivoli for a different, bold look.

3) BEZEL 2. Repeat Step 1 to bezel the sec-

ond rivoli, then work 3 rounds of the rope from Step 2.

ends like a zipper, making sure the Cs align to continue the spiral. Weave back and forth through the rope ends, seamlessly connecting the ropes (Fig. 6). ✦

4) ASSEMBLY. Finish the bracelet: Memory wire: Use round-nose pliers to

Fig. 6: Zipping the rope ends

form a simple loop at each end of the memory wire. Pass one end of the wire through the beaded rope. Zip: Place the rope section of Bezel 2 over the opposite end of the memory wire. If necessary, stitch more tubular peyote rounds so the ropes are long enough that the final rounds of the two bezels can meet. Interlock the beads of the rope

JEAN POWER is an award-winning jewelry designer, author, and teacher. When not teaching or writing, she loves to combine beads with mixed materials and techniques and play roller derby. Visit her website at www.jeanpower.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystal rivoli (article #1122), Delica cylinder beads, Nymo nylon beading thread, and all other materials: Bead Merchant, www .beadmerchant.co.uk. Similar materials: Fusion Beads.com, (888) 781-3559.

Colors inspired by nature . . . Quality inspired by pride . . . TOHO Beads! Tambrook Bead & Trade, supplying a bead store near you. Wholesale only [email protected] 503.826.0878 www.tambrookbeads.com



2/26/14 3:36 PM

Enhance your

BEADWORK SKILLS with 115+ projects, and all the must-know beading tips & tricks! Discover the entire 2013 season of Beadwork magazine, exactly as it was printed in this space saving, easily searched CD. • Get all the projects from the 2013 Designers of the Year Jill Wiseman, Maggie Meister, Sabine Lippert, and Smadar Grossman. • Be inspired to use shaped beads in your beadwork with 25+ stylish projects. • Unlock your beading potential with steps for learning the hot bead stitches including peyote stitch, herringbone, square stitch, and more. • And so much more!

Learn more at:

shop.beadingdaily.com/BW2013CD Projects by: Jill Wiseman, Miriam Shimon, Sabine Lippert

099_FBS14.indd 99

2/25/14 3:55 PM

edwardian ruffles LESLIE FRAZIER

Weave this bracelet with Japanese seed and peanut beads in colors that flow into one another in a ruffled design, reminiscent of Edwardian styles. The focal point, a sparkling beadwoven dome, hides and protects a small magnetic clasp.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES circular peyote stitch circular right-angle weave circular herringbone stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


100-103 Frazier-Edwardian Ruffles.indd 100

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MATERIALS

1) HEPTAGONS. Use peanut and seed beads to circular peyote-stitch a 7-sided piece of ruffled beadwork: Round 1: Use 8' of thread to string 7D, leaving a 6" tail. Tie a knot to form a tight circle. Exit from the first D added. Round 2: String 1D and pass through the next D of Round 1; repeat six times for a total of 7D. Step up for the next and subsequent rounds by passing through the first bead added in the current round (Fig. 1, blue thread). Round 3: Work 7 stitches with 2D in each stitch for a total of 14D (Fig. 1, red thread).

Round 4: Work 1 stitch with 2A and

1 stitch with 1A; repeat six times for a total of 21A (Fig. 2, green thread). Round 5: Work 1 stitch with 2A and 2 stitches with 1A in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 28A (Fig. 2, blue thread). Note: The stitches worked with 2A form the first herringbone stitches. Round 6: Work 1 stitch with 2A and 3 stitches with 1A in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 35A (Fig. 2, red thread).

4 g silver metallic size 11° Japanese seed beads (A) 7 g antique silver metallic size 11° Japanese seed beads (B) 11 g bronze metallic AB size 11° Japanese seed beads (C) 7 g gold-lined clear 2×4mm peanut beads (D) 1 silver 8mm magnetic clasp ¼" of silver french wire Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread


Artist’s Tips • Use very tight tension with this project to achieve the proper ruffling of the heptagon and hexagon components. • After each section of peyote stitch, keep your tension tight by pulling firmly but gently by the thread, not the needle, after entering the first bead of the herringbone column. • Slight size adjustments may be made by changing the location of the clasp. You can also lengthen or shorten the bracelet by varying the number of hexagons.

Fig. 1: Stitching Rounds 2 and 3 of the heptagon

Fig. 2: Adding Rounds 4–6 of the heptagon



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Fig. 4: Zipping the heptagon and hexagon together

3

3

3

3

3

3

2

2

2

2 1

2

2

2

2 1

3

3

3 3

Fig. 3: Stitching Rounds 7–12 of the heptagon

Round 7: Work 1 stitch with 2B and

4 stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 42B (Fig. 3, purple thread). Round 8: Work 1 stitch with 2B and 5 stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 49B (Fig. 3, orange thread). Round 9: Work 1 stitch with 2B and 6 stitches with 1B in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 56B (Fig. 3, pink thread). Note: The piece should begin to ruffle. Round 10: Work 1 stitch with 2C and 7 stitches with 1C in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 63C (Fig. 3, green thread). Round 11: Work 1 stitch with 2C and 8 stitches with 1C in each stitch; repeat six times for a total of 70C (Fig. 3, blue thread). Round 12: Work 1 stitch with 2C and 9 stitches with 1C in each stitch; repeat once. Work 1 stitch with 3C and 9 stitches with 1C; repeat four times for a total of 82C (Fig. 3, red thread). Secure the thread and trim.

3

3

3

3

3

3

Fig. 5: Planning the zipping of all bracelet components (numbers refer to the number of beads worked at the points in Round 12)

2) HEXAGONS. Use peanut and seed beads to circular peyote-stitch a 6-sided piece of ruffled beadwork: Rounds 1–11: Use 6' of thread to repeat Step 1, Rounds 1–11, this time beginning Round 1 with 6D. Note: Because the first round starts with 6D instead of 7D, you will add 1 less herringbone-stitch column and one less peyote-stitch section per round between the 2-bead stitches for all of the rounds. Round 12: Work 1 stitch without adding a bead at the corner. Work 9 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Work 1 stitch with 3C and 9 stitches with 1C in each stitch. Work 1 stitch with 2C and 9 stitches with 1C in each stitch; repeat once. Work 1 stitch with 3C and 9 stitches with 1C. Note: Only five sides of the hexagon are stitched in this round. Zip: Place the unstitched side of Round 12 next to the heptagon on a side that has a 2C column on each corner. Zip the sides together to form a seamless join (Fig. 4, blue thread) and weave through it again to reinforce (Fig. 4, red thread). Secure the thread and trim.

3) ASSEMBLY. Stitch and connect 3 more components to finish the bracelet base, following Fig. 5 for placement: Hexagons 2 and 3: Repeat Step 2 twice, each time zipping the current hexagon to the previously made one. Heptagon 2: Repeat Step 1, but in Round 12, work 1 stitch with 1C (at the corner) and 9 stitches with 1C in each stitch; repeat once. Work 1 stitch with 3C and 9 stitches with 1C in each stitch; repeat four times for a total of 80C. As in Step 2, place the unstitched side of Round 12 next to the final hexagon on a side that has a 2C column on each end. Weave the sides together to form a seamless join. Secure the thread and trim. 4) CLASP COVER. Use circular right-angle

weave to stitch a domed cover for the magnetic clasp: Round 1: Use 9' of thread to string 6A, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the 6A again to form a tight circle; exit from the first A strung.



2/26/14 3:38 PM

Round 2, Unit 1: String 4B; pass through

the last A exited and the first B added in this unit (Fig. 6, purple thread). Round 2, Unit 2: String 3B; pass back through the next A of Round 1, the nearest B in the previous unit, the 3B just added, and the following A of Round 1 (Fig. 6, orange thread). Round 2, Unit 3: String 3B, pass through the nearest A of the previous unit, the nearest B of Round 1, and the first B just added (Fig. 6, green thread). Round 2, Units 4 and 5: Repeat Round 2, Units 2 and 3 (Fig. 6, blue thread). Round 2, Unit 6: String 2B, pass through the nearest B in Unit 1 of Round 2, the open A in Round 1, the nearest B in Unit 5 of Round 2, and the 2B just added (Fig. 6, red thread). Round 3, Unit 1: String 3C; pass through the last B exited and the first C just added. Round 3, Unit 2: String 2C; pass back through the next B of Round 2, the nearest C in the previous unit, the 2C just added, and the following B of Round 2. Round 3, Unit 3: String 2C; pass through the nearest C of the previous unit, the next B of Round 2, and the first C just added. Round 3, Units 4–11: Repeat Round 3, Units 2 and 3 four times. Round 3, Unit 12: String 1C, pass through the nearest C in Unit 1 of Round 3, the open B in Round 2, the nearest C in Unit 11 of Round 3, and the C just added (Fig. 7, blue thread).

Round 4: Repeat Round 3, using C to form

4-bead units off of Round 3 (Fig. 7, red thread). Weave through beads to exit from Round 1. Embellish: String 1D; pass through the opposite A of Round 1 and the nearest B of Round 2 (Fig. 8, green thread). String 1D and pass through the next side B of Round 2; repeat five times to add 1D to the center of each Round 2 unit and exit from the nearest side C of Round 3 (Fig. 8, blue thread). Continue to add 1D to the center of each unit in Rounds 3 and 4. Exit from a C in Round 4 (Fig. 8, red thread). Round 5: String 1D and pass through the next outside edge C of Round 4; repeat eleven times for a total of 12D. Step up through the first D added in this round. Round 6: String 3D and pass through the next D of Round 5; repeat eleven times for a total of 12D. Secure the thread and trim. Clasp: Start 3' of new thread that exits down through Round 1 at the top of the beaded dome. String 1A, one half of the clasp, and 1A; pass through the opposite A in Round 1. Repeat the thread path several times to reinforce. Weave through beads to exit from Round 6; securely stitch the side of the beaded dome to Round 4 of the first heptagon. Secure the thread and trim.

Add a needle to the center of 2' of thread and join the ends to double it. Secure the thread so it exits from Round 4 of the heptagon at the other end of the bracelet. String the french wire and the other half of the clasp and pass through the last A exited. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ Central California artist LESLIE FRAZIER has been creating and teaching her distinctive designs since 1995. Although largely selftaught, she credits early classes with NanC Meinhardt, Carol Wilcox Wells, and Robin Atkins for influencing her to further explore the world of beading possibilities. Her inspirations range from nature to architecture and from antique to contemporary fashions. Years of art training are reflected in her color choices as well as the overall concept of her designs. Visit www.leslie frazier.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Seed and peanut beads and FireLine braided beading thread: Out On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads.com. Clasp: Jewelart, (559) 229-4066, www.jewelartfresno.com. Kits: Leslie Frazier, www.lesliefrazier.com.

Fig. 6: Stitching Round 2 of the clasp cover

Fig. 7: Adding Rounds 3 and 4 of the clasp cover

Fig. 8: Embellishing the dome



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metallic ribbon bracelet VENETIA PERRY

This classic bracelet can go casual or dressy. The tumbled appearance of the metallic cornerless cubes provides an attractive contrast to the perfect symmetry of the matte hex beads.

TECHNIQUES flat peyote stitch flat right-angle weave picot square stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


104-107 Perry-Metallic Ribbon Bracelet.indd 104

2/26/14 4:10 PM

MATERIALS

1) BASE. Form the bracelet’s base using

Artist’s Tips

odd-count peyote stitch: Rows 1 and 2: Use 6' of thread to string 2B, 1C, 2B, 1C, and 2B, leaving a 4" tail. Row 3: String 2B; pass back through the nearest C of Row 2; repeat. String 2B; pass through the first 2B of Row 1 (Fig. 1). Row 4: String 1C and pass through the next 2B; repeat once. Row 5: String 2B and pass through the next 1C; repeat once. String 2B, loop around the exposed edge thread between the previous two rows, and pass back through the 2B just added (Fig. 2). Rows 6–119: Repeat Rows 4 and 5 fiftyseven times. Note: If you need to shorten or lengthen the bracelet, just add or subtract rows, but be sure to end with a row identical to Row 5. Secure the thread and trim.

• For a different look, make 1-inch sections and join them together with jump rings.

2) LAYER 1. Use cubes to form the first

layer of right-angle-weave embellishment: Unit 1: Start 4' of new thread that exits the first C of Row 2. String 1C; pass through the nearest C of Row 4; string 1C; pass through the C of Row 2 last exited, the first C just added, and the nearest C of Row 4 (Fig. 3). Units 2–58: Continue using C to work right-angle-weave units off the base C down the left side of the bracelet.

Fig. 1: Stepping up for Row 3

• Before committing to an entire bracelet, test different colorways by stitching several small samples. Units 59–116: Weave through beads to exit

the nearest C on the other side of the bracelet. Use C to work right-angleweave units down the right side of the bracelet as before. Exit toward the end of the bracelet from the last C added. 3) LAYER 2. Use seed beads to form the

second layer of right-angle-weave embellishment: Unit 1: String 1A; pass up through the nearest C from Layer 1’s Unit 116. String 1A; pass down through the first C exited. Pass through the first A just added and up through the next C of Unit 116 to complete a new right-angleweave unit (Fig. 4a). Unit 2: String 1A; pass down through the nearest C in Layer 1’s Unit 1. String 1A; pass up through the first C exited. Pass through the first A just added and down through the next C of Unit 1. Unit 3: String 1A; pass up through the first C of Layer 1, Unit 1. String 1A; pass down through the second C of Unit 1. Pass through the first A just added, up

3 g metallic dark bronze size 11° seed beads (A) 10 g matte dark bronze size 8° hex beads (B) 240 brass 2.5×2.2mm cornerless cubes (C) 1 antiqued brass 10mm ball-and-socket clasp with attached 5mm jump rings Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 73⁄8"

through the first C of Unit 1, through the second A just added, and up through the nearest C of Layer 1, Unit 2 (Fig. 4b). Unit 4: String 1A; pass down through the second C of Layer 1, Unit 2; the nearest A from Layer 2, Unit 3; and up through the first C exited in this unit (Fig. 5a). Unit 5: String 1A; pass down through the nearest C of Layer 1, Unit 115; the nearest A from Unit 2, Layer 2; the first C exited in this unit; the A just added; and down through the nearest C of Layer 1, Unit 115; the second A added in Layer 2, Unit 1; and up through the nearest C from Layer 1, Unit 115 (Fig. 5b). Unit 6: String 1A; pass down through the nearest C from Layer 1, Unit 115; the second A added in Layer 2, Unit 1; up through the nearest C from Layer 1, Unit 115; the A just added; and the nearest C from Layer 1, Unit 114 (Fig. 5c). Continue adding A and working units off the C of Layer 1, maintaining the figureeight right-angle-weave thread path with each stitch. Secure the thread and trim.

Fig. 2: Working Rows 4 and 5 a

b

c

b

a Fig. 3: Stitching Unit 1, Layer 1

Fig. 4: Working Units 1–3 of Layer 2 embellishments

Fig. 5: Working Units 4–6 of Layer 2 embellishments



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4) FINISHING. Add a picot edging along the outside edges of the bracelet and the clasp: Picot edging: Start 6' of new thread that exits out through a corner B. String 3A, pass down through the next 2B stack, and up through the following 2B stack (Fig. 6); repeat down the edge of the bracelet. On the final stitch, pass down through 2B at the end of the bracelet. Socket: String 1A and pass through the next 2B at the end of the bracelet; repeat. Weave through beads to exit from the nearest A of Layer 2 at the end of the bracelet. Pass through the second A added in this section and the A just exited to square-stitch the beads together (Fig. 7). *String 3A, the socket half of the clasp, and 3A; pass through the mirrored A of Layer 2 on the other side of the bracelet. Square-stitch this A to the first A added in this section, exiting through the first A added. Repeat from * to add a second loop of beads through the same clasp half (Fig. 8). Repeat thread path several times to reinforce.

Fig. 6: Adding the picot edging

Fig. 7: Setting up to add the clasp loop

Fig. 8: Completing the clasp loop

Picot edging, second side: Exit from the

corner B at the other edge of the bracelet. Repeat the picot edging to mirror the first side. Ball: Repeat the socket thread path to add the ball half of the clasp. Secure the thread and trim. ✦

VENETIA PERRY uses bead therapy to unwind from her busy health-care job. Her work may be viewed at www.jdnative.etsy.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Cornerless cubes: Hands of the Hills, (206) 232-4588, www.hohbead.com. Similar clasp: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559. FireLine braided beading thread: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com.

the market {stop to shop}

To be listed in “Stop to Shop” please contact Camille Vogt at (800) 272-2193, x424 or [email protected]. The cost is $65 per issue with a 6 issue minimum.

Arizona

Bead & Art—Lighthouse Point (Pompano)

www.beadworldinc.com

South Florida’s friendliest bead store. Tons of semiprecious, pearls, Czech, Swarovski, sterling, tools, and supplies. Original lampwork beads. Classes and kits. Check out our website for store location and class schedules.

Bead World Inc.—Phoenix ,Scottsdale, and Glendale Arizona’s largest silver selection! Quality gemstones, copper, Swarovski, pearls, wood, horn, bone, Czech, seed beads, 100s of .925 charms, findings, wire, mixes. Something for everyone! Open 7 days a week. Service. Selection. Savings. 6068 N. 16th St., Phoenix 8764 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale 20280 N. 59th Ave., #107, Glendale

(602) 240-BEAD (480) 948-2323 (623)463-2323

Florida

The Beading Boutique —Altamonte Springs

3,100 Sq. ft. of fabulous beading magic. Largest collection of Toho and Delica seed beads in Central Florida. Extensive selection of beads, findings, pearls, crystals, etc. A beader’s dream come true. Must see to believe. Instruction offered daily. Parties, Girls’ Night Out, and so much more. Come in and relax at gourmet coffee bar while choosing a new creation to make and take. Spend the morning, afternoon, or entire day. Open 7 days/week. 224 W. Central Parkway, Suite 1018

(407) 574-7164

Laura’s Beads—Hudson www.laurasbeads.com

www.beadandart.com

5034 N. Federal Hwy.

(954) 418-3390

BEADS! – Tampa www.eBeads.com

KNOWN FOR THE LARGEST SEED BEAD COLLECTION IN THE TAMPA BAY AREA! Over 950 Delica colors, 91 Tila colors, SuperDuos and more! Huge selection of gemstones, freshwater pearls, base metal findings, Swarovski Crystals, and lampwork beads. Amazing classes including Bead Weaving, Copper Etching, Dichroic Glass, Enameling, and more! Visit our website for hours and class schedule. [email protected] 12807 W. Hillsborough Ave. Ste. H (813) 258-3900

Tampa Bead Café—Tampa www.tampabeadcafe.com

www.gonewiththebead.com

Come and see our unique and exciting shop. We have 2,400 sq. ft. featuring artisan beads and focals, Czech beads and buttons, Kumihimo, vintage beads and stampings, Miyuki, Swarovski, Venetian beads, TierraCast, Wire Lace, and Wire Knitz, Hill Tribe Silver, Kazuri, African metal and trade beads, pearls, stone, wood, and horn. See our gallery tour at www.gonewiththebead.com. We have magazines. Hours: Wed-Fri 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat 10 a.m.- 5 p.m. 16 N. Main St., Ste. D (Entrance at the back)

(706) 769-2012

Illinois

City Beads—Chicago

www.citybeadschicago.com

Seed Bead and AIKO Specialists! Nationally renowned teachers, Gary Wilson cabochons, Kathy Hoope lampwork, Czech glass, pearls, and semiprecious stones. DISCOUNT PRICES! Showroom hours by appointment. For class schedules and more information, visit our website or call to be added to our mailing list.

Largest selection of Delicas and seed beads in Tampa; wide variety of semiprecious stones and Czech glass; the only shop in Tampa for PMC classes and supplies. Enjoy a cup of java while you bead!

3928 N. Rockwell St.

320 W. Fletcher #107

For All Your Beading Needs! Great selection & prices! Best little bead shop in southern Illinois! Unique ceramic beads, Czech glass, findings, Soft Flex wire, all kinds of cord, seed beads, gemstones & more. Watch for our trunk shows. Classes & Parties Available. Follow us on Facebook & Twitter! Thurs-Fri 12-6, Sat 10-6, Sun 12-5, or by appointment.

(813) 374-9099

Georgia

Artzy Beads LLC—Gwinnett

Laura’s Beads is more than just a bead shop, it is a place to gather, to learn, and to create. With a warm and inviting atmosphere, we’re here to assist you in finding what you need for your latest project. Specializing in bead-weaving, we offer a range of classes for both beginners and experienced beaders. Best of all, we are stocked with a gorgeous selection of beads, findings, and supplies at great prices.

The artzy jewelry design center for NE Georgia. Offering basic to advanced classes, specializing on bridal and birthday parties. Large selection of Swarovski crystal, Toho beads, gem stones, hemp, metal findings, java beads, hand crafted jewelry gifts and more!

8142 State Rd. 52

178 E. Crogan Street Ste #250

(727) 495-0803

Gone With The Bead—Watkinsville (Athens)

www.artzybeads.com

(770) 545-8000

(312) 316-1910

Southpass Beads—Cobden www.southpassbeads.etsy.com

203 East Ash Street

(618) 893-6170

Louisiana

A Bead Boutique—Alexandria www.abeadboutique.com

A beading paradise! Mulitple rooms for classes, parties, and gettogethers. Great selection of beads, tools, books, and supplies. Tue-Fri 11-5; Sat 11-4. Located on the edge of the Garden District, near Hill St. traffic light. 2924 Jackson St.

106

(318) 442-2575



3/3/14 1:43 PM

Maryland

East Street Beads—Frederick www.eaststreetbeads.com

922 N. East St.

(301) 881-2003

Bead Boutique—Prince Frederick www.mdbeadboutique.com

Large variety of unique and quality semiprecious beads, Swarovski, lampwork, freshwater pearls, seed beads, findings. Precious metals, PMC, charms, and tools. Great prices. Free work tables. Classes. Parties. Share our synergy! [email protected] 28 Solomons Island Rd. South

(410) 535-6337

Michigan

Largest selection outside Manhattan. Classes, Swarovski, Preciosa, Pearls, Thunder & Fire Polish, 1000’s of semiprecious Strands, Myuki, Delicas, TOHO, Hanks, Pendants, Cabachons, Donuts, Findings, Chain in all Metals & Finishes. Tools & Books. Open 7 Days. Belt Pkwy, Exit 17. 137–20 Crossbay Blvd

www.stonycreekbead.blogspot.com

Supporting the artist inside of you! Huge collection of Seed & Czech Beads. Bali, pearls, and stones. Lampwork & polymer Clay by MI artists. Classes, kits, books & so much more! I-94 to exit 183. South 1 mile. Closed Mondays. Tues-Fri 10-6, Sat 10-4, Sun 10-2. www.stonycreekbead.blogspot.com

Let’s Bead!—East Rochester www.letsbead.com

3,200 sq. ft. bright full-service bead shop. Ever-growing selection of tools, books, beads, stringing materials, findings, wire, chain mail, kumihimo, Swarovski crystals, classes, and more! Relax, use our tools, and get friendly help at our in-store design station.

www.beadfeather.com

We care to share. Free classes monthly. Always new inventory and ideas. New Store in New York! Seed beads, lampwork, handblown glass, pearls, semiprecious, huge selection of Swarovski Crystals, ceramics, base metals, precious metals, Unicorn, Grace Lampwork, Vintaj, Tierra Cast, Soft Flex, tools, classes, and parties! Low prices. 27 Division St.

www.justbeadingaround.com

We carry a huge selection of high quality beads, findings, and beading supplies. Miyuki and Toho seed beads, Swarovski, Preciosa, Pearls, Kazuri, Czech, Lampwork, Gemstones & more. Classes and Parties. Plenty of parking. Handicap accessible. Awesome staff!! (603) 734-4322

Santerre’s Stones ‘N Stuff—Exeter

North Carolina

42 Water St.

(603) 733-9393

Ladybead and Rook—Wilton www.ladybeadandrook.com

Beautiful, quality beads to inspire your creativity and accentuate your style. Emphasis on European beads: Czech cyrstals, pressed glass, seed beads, pearls, and semiprecious. Artisan-created jewelry for fine gift giving. Ample parking. Thu-Sat 9-5:50, Sun 11-4. At the Riverview Mill Artist Shops. 29 Howard St.

(603) 654-2805

New Jersey

Beads by Blanche—Bergenfield www.beadsbyblanche.com

Only Miles from NYC. Visit East Coast’s premier bead shop. 3,000+ colors/styles of Japanese seed beads, glass, crystal, semiprecious, lampwork, and more! Classes by local and nationally known artists. Extensive inventory for unlimited possibilities! 106 N. Washington Ave.

(201) 385-6225

Jubili Beads & Yarns—Collingswood www.jubilibeadsandyarns.com

Everything you need under one roof! Fabulous full service source for beads, classic and novelty yarns. Eight-torch lampworking studio, spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, PMC, and more! Repairs, custom jewelry, and parties. Contact us via email at info@jubilibeadsandyarns. com. 713 Haddon Ave.

(856)858-7844

The Birds and the Beads—Morganville www.thebirdsandthebeads.com

Surround yourself in beads! Incredible collection of hand-selected stone, pearl, glass and shell beads. Plus, all the best seed beads, tools, books, findings, and Swarovski crystals. Please call or stop by for further information and our extensive class schedule. 411 Rt. 79

(732) 591-8233

Bead Dazzle—Point Pleasant www.beaddazzlenj.com

Visit our beautiful bead store for a huge selection of Swarovski, semiprecious, Czech crystal, seed beads, and many unique items. We offer classes in a warm and friendly atmosphere. 2319 Bridge Ave.

(732) 295-6679

Bazaar Star Beadery—Ridgewood www.bazaarstarbeadery.com

Take a journey into the colorful wonderland of beads galore. Eclectic collection gathered from around the world awaits you! Come one, come all, sit and stay, we’ll help you create it all. Ladies’ parties/birthdays/ original kits and instructions. 216 E. Ridgewood Ave.

(920) 208-BEAD (2323)

Canada

STUDIO BBG—Montreal, QC www.studiobbg.com

Come check out our therapeutic bead pit! We carry a wide range of beads, tools & findings…Swarovski Element Components, Semiprecious, Freshwater Pearls, Seedbeads, Chain by the foot, Sterling Silver findings, Pandora like beads, Beadalon, Bead Smith, Books, and more… We offer Birthday parties, Courses/Workshops for Children & Adults, Fundraisers & Ladies Fun Nights, Jewelry Restoration & Custom Design Creations. Store hours for Pointe Claire: Tues-Fri 10-6pm, Sat 10-5pm, Sun 11-5pm. Be sure to follow us on Facebook at BBG Studio & sign up for our monthly newsletter at www.studiobbg.com. 46 Ste-Anne, Pointe-Claire, QC H9S 4P8

(514) 674-3481

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

www.aintmissbeadhaven.com

We are a full-service bead store offering classes, handmade jewelry, and beading supplies. Birthday and private parties, Wine & Bead Night, BYOB Socials (bring your own beads), and Girls Night Out. We offer a large variety of Vintage jewelry and components, Seed beads, Swarovski Crystals, Precious and Semi-precious gemstones, Crystals strands, Sterling Silver, Silver filled, Gold filled, and Vermeil findings. Hours: Monday-Saturday 10-6; Email: [email protected] 152 N. Main St.

(704) 746-9278

Oregon

www.santerresstones.com

Looking for the real thing? We have a huge selection of semi-precious & precious gemstone beads, Miyuki seed beads, Delicas, Swarovski, Kazuri, Czech & more. Custom cutting & drilling. Classes/parties. Easy to locate. Helpful, friendly staff.

931 N. 8th St.

(607) 563-2829

Ain’t Miss Bead Haven—Mooresville

New Hampshire

285 Calef Highway, Rte 125

(585) 586-6550

Beads of a Feather—Sidney

(734) 544-0904

Just Beading Around—Epping

www.jsmbeadcoop.com

Sheboygan County’s bead store! Offering a wide variety of beads, findings, tools, books, and more. Workspace, tools, and a friendly, knowledgeable staff available- create right in the store! Classes and special events. Tue-Sat 10-7.

(718) 835-7651

349 W. Commercial St.

Stony Creek Bead & Gallery —Ypsilanti Twp.

2060 Whittaker Rd.

www.ladyjanecraftcenter.com

Wisconsin

JSM Bead Coop—Sheboygan

BeadFX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Beadies Beadwork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 BeadsRfun.Com/Odyssey Beads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Bello Modo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

Azillion Beads—Bend

Craftoptics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

www.azillionbeads.net

“More beads than you can imagine!” NEW LOCATION IN BEND. Over 2,000 sq. ft. of beads. Call for directions. Email azillionbeads@ gmail.com. 240 NE Emerson, Ste. 110 (541) 617-8854

Bead Mecca—Canyonville www.beadmecca.com

Your Pilgrimage is over! Discover why people travel far and wide to shop Oregon’s most complete selection of Beads & Charms. Easy off/on I-5, exit 98. Hours: Tues-Sat 10:00am-5:30pm. 423 S Main St.

Beadaholique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58

the market {stop to shop}

Growing Selection of Miyuki & Metal Seed Beads, Swarovski Crystals & Pearls, Czech Glass & Pearls, Lampwork, Tools, Semi-precious, Findings, Wire, Chain Mail, Books, Kumihimo, Fresh-water Pearls, Tools, and More! Classes 7 Days a Week!

New York

BEAD SHOP at Lady Jane Craft Center —Queens (Ozone Park)

(541) 839-6688

Pennsylvania

KAT’S BEAD BOUTIQUE—Allentown www.katsbeadboutique.com

Biggest Little Bead Shop in PA. Full secection of cyrstals, seed beads, findings, books, tools, unusual items, and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Classes by local and nationally known teachers. Once a month stitch-for-free day. 725 N. 19th St.

(610) 432-7545

Crystal Bead Bazaar—Pittsburgh www.crystalbeadbazaar.com

A world bazaar of beads. Swarovski, Czech, Venetian, lampwork, sterling and gold-filled, freshwater pearls, and semiprecious. Largest selection of seed beads in area. Classes and custom designs. Mon-Sat 10-6, Thu 10-9, Sun 12-5. 4521 Butler St.

Crystal Creations-Beads Gone Wild . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Fire Mountain Gems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . bc Fusion Beads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Helby Import/Beadsmith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Interweave . . . . . . . . . . 1, 9, 24, 45, 50, 51, 61, 80, 99, 119, 122, 128, ibc, ifc Kandras Beads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Marcia Belonis/Baubles by Balonis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Royalwood LTD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Shipwreck Beads, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Tambrook Bead & Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

(412) 687-1513

Buttercup Beads—Pottstown www.buttercupbeads.com

Let your creativity blossom in our cozy cottage setting. Classes, parties, oh-so-pretty sparkly things, and fun! And nbsp; No experience necessary. Service with a smile and always, free chocolate. Something for everyone. Lampwork Artisan/bead addict, owned and operated. Guilds/ Bead Society discounts, too! 2151 E. High St., Ste. A

(484)524-8231

Virginia

Burke Gems & Beads—Burke www.burkegemsbeads.com

A bead store that is too good to be true! A wide selection of beads, semiprecious stones, unique findings, knowledgeable staff, and classes with famous designers and local artists. Beaders of all abilities are welcome and we have everything to make your project one-of-a-kind! Tues-Fri 11-8, Sat 10-8, Sun 12-5. 9415 Old Burke Lake Rd.

(703) 425 3366

Bead what you love, love what you bead ! Join our free community for beaders just like you! Get started with a

free eBook download and sign up for free!

www.BeadingDaily.com/Free-eBooks

(201) 444-5144



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fiori necklace JEAN  CAMPBELL

This sparkling design,which uses right-angle weave, brick stitch, peyote stitch, and fringe  techniques, resembles a blooming garden of  crystals to grace the neck.

TECHNIQUES circular brick stitch tubular peyote stitch flat right-angle weave basic fringe wireworking See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) FOCAL BEZEL. Use 4' of thread, right-

angle weave, and peyote stitch to make a bezel for the rivoli: Round 1: Use right-angle weave and C to work a strip 13 units long and 1 unit high. String 1C; pass through the end bead of the first unit. String 1C; pass through the end bead of the last unit (Fig. 1). Pull tight to form a ring. Exit from the first bead of this round. Round 2 (back): String 1A; pass through the next up bead of Round 1 (Fig. 2). Repeat around with 1A in each stitch to peyote-stitch a total of 14A. Step up by passing through the first bead of this round. Round 3 (back): Work peyote stitch using 1A in each stitch for a total of 14A. Step up. Round 4 (back): String 1A; pass through the next 2 up beads of the previous round to make a decrease, and pull tight. Repeat around to add a total of 7A (your last stitch will be a decrease). Step up (Fig. 3). Round 5 (back): String 1C; pass through the next up bead of the previous round. Repeat around to add a total of 7C (Fig. 4). Weave through these beads again to reinforce.

Fig. 1: Joining the ends of Round 1

Fig. 3: Stepping up for Round 5

Round 6 (front): Weave through beads to

MATERIALS

exit from 1C on the other side of Round 1. Work peyote stitch using 1C in each stitch to add a total of 14 beads. Step up. Round 7 (front): Repeat Round 6. Round 8 (front): Place the rivoli in the beadwork, face side up. Work peyote stitch using 1A in each stitch. Pull tight to secure the rivoli.

1 g purple size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g metallic fuchsia size 11° seed beads (B) 10 g metallic silver size 11° seed beads (C) 1 foil-backed crystal 10×14mm crystal oval rivoli 16 amethyst 8mm crystal rounds 84 amethyst 6mm crystal rounds 49 violet opal 4mm crystal bicones ½" of silver french wire 1 sterling silver 7×12mm lobster clasp 1½" of sterling silver 6×8mm oval extender chain 1 sterling silver 2" head pin Clear 6 lb braided beading thread

2) FOCAL FRINGE. Weave through beads

to exit from Round 6. String one 8mm round and 1C; pass through the 8mm round and the last Round 6 bead exited. Pull tight to form a fringe. String 1B; pass through the next 1C in Round 6. Pull tight so the 1B sits toward the center of the flower and the fringe falls toward the back. String 1 bicone and 1C; pass back through the bicone and through the last Round 6 bead exited. Pull tight to form a fringe (Fig. 5). Repeat around, adding a total of 14 alternating fringes and 14B. Repeat the thread path to reinforce the beadwork. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside.

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needle Chain-nose pliers Round-nose pliers Wire cutters FINISHED SIZE: 17" (Adjustable to 19")

Artist’s Tips • Be sure to use clear thread for this project as dark thread will show through the crystals. • Use a small paintbrush and Future acrylic floor polish to give the beadwork several light coats; allow to dry on paper towels. The acrylic will keep the fringe in place and will strengthen the thread.

Fig. 2: Working Round 2 with A beads

Fig. 4: Completing Round 5

Fig. 5: Adding fringe to the focal



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Artist’s Tip If you’re having trouble keeping the rivoli in place while you bead the last few rounds, stick a tiny piece of double-sided craft tape to the edge of the rivoli before you place it in the bezel. The tape will act as a third “hand” and will be neatly hidden within the beadwork once you’re done.

a

b Fig. 6: Starting the brick-stitch ring Fig. 7: Adding fringe to the ring

3) MEDIUM FLOWERS. Brick-stitch seed

beads around a crystal to make a beaded base ring, then add fringe: Base: Use 1' of thread to string one 8mm round. Tie a square knot so the thread lies on the outside of the bead. Pass through the crystal again so you have 2 strands of thread laying on top of each other on one side of the bead. Repeat on the other side of the bead. These are base threads. Ring: String 2C; pass under the base thread and back through the second bead to make a brick stitch (Fig. 6). Repeat around, adding a total of 14C. After stitching the final bead, pass down into the first bead of the round and up through the final bead to connect them. Fringe: String one 6mm round and 1C; pass back through the round, down through the last 1C exited on the ring, and up through the next 1C. String 1 bicone and 1C; pass back through the bicone, down through the last 1C exited on the ring, and up through the next 1C (Fig. 7). Repeat around to add a total of 14 crystal fringes. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Note: For a dimensional look, push all of the bicone fringe toward the front side of the 8mm round and all of the round fringe toward the back. Repeat this entire step for a second medium flower.

110

4) SMALL FLOWERS AND CONNECTIONS. Stitch 4 small flowers that connect the medium and focal flowers, beginning with the right side of the necklace: Base and ring: Repeat as for the medium flowers using 1' of thread. Fringe: String 1B; pass down through the last C exited on the ring, and up through the next C. String 1 bicone and 1C; pass back through the bicone, down through the last C exited on the ring, and up through the next C. Repeat around to add a total of 5 bicone fringes and 6 B fringes, exiting up through the next 1C. Small-flower/medium-flower connection: String 1 bicone and pass through

one of the 1C/6mm round/1C fringe legs of 1 medium flower. Pass under the base thread and back through the medium flower’s fringe leg, the bicone just strung, and the adjacent C. Pass up through the next C in the small flower’s ring. String 1B; pass back through the last C exited and up through the following C. Repeat to connect to the next 1C/6mm round/1C fringe leg of the medium flower in the same manner (Fig. 8a). Secure the thread and trim. Note: You’ll have a professional-looking necklace if you orient the holes of the 8mm flower centers so they’re parallel to one another.

Fig. 8: Connecting the small flower to the medium flower

Small-flower/focal connection (right side of necklace): Repeat entire step to

create a second small flower that connects to the opposite side of the same medium flower and the upper-right 8mm round focal fringe; leave 1 unattached fringe between connection points on the left side of the medium flower, causing the beadwork to curve toward the left (Fig. 8b). Note: When working the fringe of the small flower that’s opposite the 2 fringes that connect to the medium flower, string the bicone and 1C as before but before passing back through the bicone, string one 6mm round and pass through the C at the tip of one of the focal’s 8mm round fringes; pass back through the new beads just strung and the small flower’s new fringe. Small flowers and connections (left side): Repeat entire step to connect the

remaining medium flower to the upper left focal fringe, leaving one 8mm round fringe between the connection points at the top of the focal (this will give the necklace a V shape) and stitching the flowers to mirror the first side of the strap.



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b

back of necklace

a

Fig. 9: Starting the right strap

5) STRAPS. Use 6mm crystal rounds,

seed beads, and right-angle weave to make straps that attach to the small flowers, beginning with the right side of the necklace: Unit 1: Start a 4' length of doubled thread that exits from 1C at the tip of a bicone fringe on the rightmost small flower that is farthest from the focal. Note: To maintain the curve in the beadwork, leave 1 unattached fringe between connection points on the left side of the small flower (Fig. 9a). String one 6mm round, 1C, and one 6mm round; pass down through the tip of the flower’s next bicone fringe leg, into the brickstitched ring, under the base thread, and back up through the ring and fringe. Pass through the third and second beads added in this step to exit from the C just strung (Fig. 9b). Units 2–8: String {one 6mm round and 1C} three times. String one 6mm round. Pass through the last 1C exited and the first 4 beads added in this step (Fig. 10). Repeat to make a strap 8 units long.

Fig. 10: Completing Unit 2 of the strap

Clasp connection: String one 8mm round,

1C, ¼" of french wire, and the clasp; pass back through the 1C, the 8mm crystal, and the last 1C exited at the end of the strap (Fig. 11). Weave through the beads of the strap, secure the thread, and trim. Repeat this entire step to complete the other side of the necklace, once again positioning the strap on the remaining small flower to maintain the previously established curve and making the clasp connection on an end link of the extender chain. 6) DANGLE. Use the head pin to string one 8mm round; form a wrapped loop that attaches to the free end of the extender chain. ✦

Fig. 11: Attaching the clasp

JEAN CAMPBELL is senior editor of Beadwork and a jewelry-design artist and teacher. Her Fiori Necklace was spurred on by a challenge from Swarovski’s Nicole Harper to design a necklace with nearly all crystal components. She is the author of several beading books and videos, including Jean Campbell's Best Beading Workshops: Floral Designs and Global Designs, both available at interweavestore.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski bicones and rounds, seed beads, and FireLine braided beading thread: Beyond Beadery, (800) 840-5548, www.beyondbeadery.com. Swarovski rivoli: Shipwreck Beads, (800) 950-4232, www.shipwreckbeads.com. Findings: Fire Mountain Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.



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riviera rivoli CAROLE OHL

Inspired by bracelets that use spacer bars as beads, Carole made her own spacers with cubes and crystals. The rivoli’s bezel is square to reflect the straightness of the bars.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES circular herringbone stitch square stitch flat and circular peyote stitch ladder stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) FOCAL BEZEL. Stitch a square bezel for

the rivoli, starting with the back side: Round 1: Use 5' of 6 lb thread to string 4C,

leaving a 3" tail. Pass through all the beads again and tie a knot to form a tight circle. Exit from the first C added. Round 2: String 2B and pass through the next C from the previous round; repeat around to add a total of 8B. Step up through the first B added in this round. Round 3: String 2B and pass down through the next B from the previous round, the nearest C, and up through the following B; repeat around to add a total of 8B. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 1). Round 4: String 2A and square-stitch them to the 2B below; exit from the first A just added (Fig. 2, green thread). String 2A and square-stitch them to the 2A below; pass down through the second A just added and continue to weave through the A and B below (Fig. 2, blue thread). String 3B and pass up through the next B of Round 3, pulling tight.


Fig. 3: Working Round 5

Repeat around to add a total of 16A. Step up through the nearest 2A on the first corner (Fig. 2, red thread). Round 5: String 2A, pass down through the next A from Round 4, string 7A, and pass up through the nearest top A of the next corner formed in Round 4; repeat around to add a total of 36A. Step up through the first A added in this round (Fig. 3). Round 6: String 2B, pass down through the next A from Round 5, string 9A, and pass up through the nearest top A of the next corner formed in Round 5; repeat around to add a total of 8B and 36A. Step up through the first B added in this round (Fig. 4). Round 7: String 1A, 1D, and 1A; pass down through the next B and following 2A from Round 6. Work 3 peyote stitches with 1A in each stitch, passing through 2A and 1B from Round 6 for the final stitch. Repeat around to add a total of 20A and 4D. Step up through the third A added in this round (Fig. 5).

MATERIALS 3 g green tourmaline amber size 14° seed beads (A) 3 g mottled aqua gold luster size 11° seed beads (B) 4 g olive matte iris 3mm cubes (C) 78 olivine AB2X 3mm crystal bicones (D) 2 olivine AB2X 4mm crystal bicones 28 olivine AB2X 6mm crystal bicones (E) 1 foil-backed aquamarine 14mm crystal rivoli Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread Smoke 8 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Size 11 or 12 beading needle FINISHED SIZE: 7"

Artist’s Tips • When stitching the bezel, keep the tension tight to create a sturdy setting for the rivoli. • To make the bracelet longer, add an extra seed bead or two between the bezel and the spacer bar. You can also add length by making the stem of the clasp and toggle connection a little longer.

Fig. 2: Square- and herringbonestitching Round 4


Fig. 5: Finishing the back of the bezel in Round 7



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Fig. 6: Working the front of the bezel in Round 8

Fig. 7: Embellishing a spacer bar

Round 8: Add the rivoli, faceup, to the cen-

ter of the beadwork. Work 2 peyote stitches with 1A in each stitch; then string 1A, 1D, and 1A; and pass through the first A from Round 7 on the second side (Fig. 6). Pull snug so the beadwork cups over the bezel; repeat around to add a total of 16A and 4D. Secure the thread and trim. 2) SPACER BARS. Stitch an individual

spacer bar: Base: Use 3' of 6 lb thread to form a ladder-

stitched strip 5C long, leaving a 4" tail. Exit from the final C. Embellishment: String 1A, 1D, and 1A; pass through the last C exited so the bead strand sits on the side of the final C. String 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass through the last C exited and into the nearest C (Fig. 7). Repeat this section to add 2 strands of beads to the next C on the base. Add one 1A/1D/1A strand to the center C. Then add the strands in reverse to the next 2C to end up with one 1A/1D/1A strand on the end of the

114

Fig. 8: Making the toggle bar

base. Tie the working and tail thread in a strong knot. Secure the thread and trim. Set the bar aside. Repeat this entire step thirteen times to form a total of 14 spacer bars. 3) TOGGLE BAR. Peyote-stitch a toggle

bar for the clasp: Strip: Add a tension bead 6" from the end of 3' of 6 lb thread. Peyote-stitch a strip 10B wide and 10 rows long. Zip: Fold the strip so the beads of the first and last rows interlock. Weave back and forth through these 2 rows to zip the strip into a tube. Remove the tension bead, secure the tail thread, and trim. Ends: Pass the working thread through the tube, exiting out the other end. String one 4mm bicone, 1A, pass back through the bicone and the tube, and pull tight; repeat on the other end of the tube (Fig. 8). Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread within the tube’s beadwork and trim. Set the toggle bar aside.

Fig. 9: Connecting the components

4) ASSEMBLY. Connect the components: Left side: Start a new 6' length of

8 lb thread that exits the second C of a spacer bar, leaving a 10" tail. String 1E and pass through the second C of another bar; repeat to connect 7 spacer bars. String 1E and 2B; pass through a B of Round 2 on the back of the bezel, the nearest C, and the next B of Round 2. Note: Make sure to string the components so the bezel and the spacer bars are all facedown. String 2B. String 1E and pass through the second C of another spacer bar (Fig. 9); repeat to add the remaining spacer bars. Clasp loop: Pass down through the first C of the final spacer bar and up through the second C. Secure the strand by tying a half-hitch knot between the C beads. String 39B, pass down through the fourth C of the final spacer bar, up through the fifth C, tie a half-hitch knot between the C beads, and pass down through the fourth C (Fig. 10).



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Fig. 10: Adding the clasp loop

Right side: String 1E and pass through the

fourth C of the next spacer bar already placed; repeat five more times to add a total of 6E. String 1E and 2B; pass through the mirror B of Round 2 on the back of the bezel, the nearest C, and the next B of Round 2. String 2B. String 1E and pass through the fourth C of the next spacer bar already placed; repeat six more times to connect the remaining bars. Check the thread tension, making sure there’s no slack between the bicones and spacer bars. Tie a half-hitch knot between Cs on the first bar to secure the thread. Exit up through an end C. Toggle: String 2A, pass up through the next C, down through the last C exited, and the 2A just strung. String 13B and pass through a B in the fourth peyotestitched column from one edge of the toggle, away from the center. Weave through the toggle beads to exit from the third B from the other edge in the

Fig. 11: Attaching the toggle

same row, toward the center. String 1B and pass back through the twelfth B just added. Work 4 peyote stitches along the strand with 1B in each stitch. Pass through the next B on the strand. String 2B and pass up through the second C from the left on the first bar. Pass down through the end C, string 2A, and pass up through the second C (Fig. 11). Repeat the left-side thread path. Exit from the second C added to the clasp loop. Loop embellishment: Square-stitch the second and thirty-eighth loop beads together. Continue square-stitching to form a stem with 4 pairs of C (Fig. 12, green thread). Work 14 circular peyote stitches with 2A in each stitch around the circle for a total of 28A (Fig. 12, blue thread). String 1B; pass through the nearest B and through the first 2A added in this section. Work 6 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch, treating the 2A from the previous round as

Fig. 12: Embellishing the clasp loop

1 bead; form 1 decrease, then work 6 peyote stitches with 1B in each stitch to complete the round (Fig. 12, red thread). Weave down through the right side of the stem. Repeat the thread path for the right side of the bracelet to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. ✦ CAROLE OHL lives in Dayton, Ohio, where she has been a freelance graphic designer since 1980. She has been beading since 2005 and has always wanted to make sculptural flowers. When she started playing with mandalas and found the teardrops in her stash, it was her “little bead dream come true,” and this project was born. Carole teaches her designs at her local bead store, The Bead Cage, in Kettering, Ohio, and sells many of her design patterns online at www.bead-patterns.com. Contact Carole at [email protected]. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: FireLine braided beading thread and Swarovski crystal bicones and rivoli: FusionBeads. com, (888) 781-3559. Miyuki seed beads: Charlene’s Beads, (760) 530-9436, www.cbbeads.com.



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wildflower earrings

MELANIE POTTER

Inspired by flowers seen on walks along California’s central coast, these earrings, made primarily with chevron netting, have subtle touches of crystals that give an extra dose of glamour.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES flat and circular chevron chain tubular peyote stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BEZEL BACK. Use chevron stitch to

form the back for the beaded bezel: Round 1: Use 6 ' of waxed thread to string 8D, leaving an 8" tail. Tie a strong square knot to form a tight circle. Pass through the first D to clear the knot. Round 2, Unit 1: String 5D; pass back through the first D just added and through the next D of Round 1 (Fig. 1a). Round 2, Unit 2: String 1D; pass up through the nearest D from the previous unit. String 3D; pass back through the first bead added in this unit and through the next D of Round 1 (Fig. 1b). Round 2, Units 3–7: Repeat Unit 2 five times. Round 2, Unit 8: String 1D; pass up through the nearest D from the previous unit. String 2D; pass down through the nearest D of Unit 1 and back through the first D added in this unit. Weave through beads to exit 2D at the top of one of the units (Fig. 2). Gaps: String 1D and pass through the top 2D of the next unit; repeat around to add a total of 8D. Exit from the first D added in this section (Fig. 3). Chain: String 1A, one end of one 23-link piece of chain, and 1A; pass through the last D exited. Repeat the thread path to

MATERIALS

reinforce. Weave through beads to exit the next gap D. String 1A, the other end link of the same chain, and 1A; pass through the last D exited. Repeat the thread path to reinforce (Fig. 4). Use the pliers to connect an ear wire to the center link of the chain. Weave through beads to exit the next gap D.

2 g silver-lined cream alabaster size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g seafoam transparent iridescent size 15° seed beads (B) 3 g sage matte metallic size 15° seed beads (C) 2 g sage matte metallic size 11° seed beads (D) 24 jonquil 2mm crystal rounds 2 foil-backed 39ss (about 8mm) Pacific opal faceted crystal pointed-back cabochons 3¼" of sterling silver 2mm rolo chain 2 sterling silver ear wires White nylon or crystal 4 lb braided beading thread Beading wax

2) PETAL. Work chevron stitch to form

a shaped petal: Row 1, Unit 1: String 9B; pass back

through the first B added and through the next D on the bezel back’s edge (Fig. 5). Row 1, Units 2 and 3: String 3B; pass up through the seventh B of the previous unit. String 5B; pass back through the first B added in this unit and through the next D at the bezel back’s edge. Repeat to add a third unit (Fig. 6a). Step up for the next row by weaving through beads to exit the top 2B of Unit 1, toward the edge (Fig. 6b). Row 2, Unit 1: String 9C; pass back through the first C just added and through the last top 2B exited (Fig. 7).

TOOLS Scissors Size 12 beading needles Wire cutters Chain- or flat-nose pliers FINISHED SIZE: 1"

Artist’s Tip If you prefer working with a shorter length of thread and don’t mind tying on new thread, tie off your tail threads inside the units of chevron chain, not along the outer edges of the beadwork.

Fig. 4: Adding the chain

Fig. 1: Working Units 1 and 2 of Round 2

Fig. 5: Working the first unit of a petal

Fig. 2: Completing Round 2

Fig. 6: Adding Units 2 and 3 to Row 1

Fig. 3: Filling in the gaps with D

Fig. 7: Starting Row 2



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2

3

1

4 12 5 11 6 Fig. 8: Finishing Row 2

b

10 a

7 8

9

Fig. 11: Creating the stamen

Fig. 9: Filling in the gaps with C

Fig. 10: Adding the rivoli and bezeling

Row 2, Units 2–4: String 3C; pass up

round by passing through the first bead added in this round (Fig. 10a). Round 2: Work peyote stitch using 1A in each stitch, pulling tight with each stitch to fully encase the rivoli. Exit from 1A of Round 1 (Fig. 10b). Stamen, Unit 1: String 7A; pass back through the first A strung and through the next A of Round 1. Stamen, Unit 2: String 2A; pass up through the sixth bead of the previous unit. String 5A; pass back through the first bead added in this unit and through the next A of Round 1. Stamen, Unit 3: String 2A; pass up through the seventh bead of the previous unit. String 4A; pass back through the first bead added in this unit and through the next A of Round 1. Stamen, Units 4–11: Repeat Stamen Units 2 and 3 four times for a total of 11 units. Note: The top edge beads will alternate 2A and 3A. Stamen, Unit 12: String 2A; pass up through the sixth bead of the previous unit. String 3A; pass down through the third bead of Unit 1. String 1A; pass back through the first bead added in this unit. Weave through beads to exit the top 3A of Unit 2 (Fig. 11).

through the seventh B of the previous unit. String 5C; pass back through the first C added in this unit and through the top 2B of the next Row 1 unit. Repeat twice to add a third and fourth unit. Weave through beads to exit up through the edge 3B of Row 1’s Unit 1 (Fig. 8). Gaps: String 1B and pass up through the edge 3C of Row 2’s Unit 1. String 1C and pass through the top 2C of Row 2’s Unit 1. Continue to add matching-colored gap beads between each unit to edge the petal. Set up for the next petal by weaving through beads to exit from the next 2D on the bezel back (Fig. 9). Repeat this entire step five times for a total of 6 petals. Exit from a D nearest a petal edge. 3) BEZEL FRONT. Peyote-stitch the front

of the bezel and add the stamen: Round 1: With the flower faceup, work

peyote stitch around the bezel back’s edge, using 1A in each stitch. Insert 1 rivoli with the pointed side touching the bezel back. Step up for the next

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Fig. 12: Adding crystal rounds

Gaps: String 1 crystal round; pass through

the top 2A of the next unit. String 1 crystal round; pass through the top 3A of the following unit. Repeat around to add 1 crystal between each unit. Secure the thread and trim (Fig. 12). 4) Repeat Steps 1–3 for a second earring. ✦ MELANIE POTTER lives on the central coast of California with her husband, Scott. She revels in the beauty of this area and spends time outside hiking, walking, swimming, and sometimes just resting in her hammock. Her favorite inspiration for her beadwork designs comes from nature’s beauty and especially that of flowers. Along the many local trails is awe-inspiring scenery as well as myriad flowers to gaze upon. View more of Melanie’s work at www .melaniepotter.com and learn about her bead retreats at www.schoolofbeadwork.com. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Kits, Swarovski article #1028 Xilion Chaton crystal cabochons, FireLine braided beading thread, and all other beads and findings: School of Beadwork, (805) 440-2613, www.schoolofbeadwork .com. FireLine and seed beads also available from: Beads by Blanche, (201) 385-6225, www.beads byblanche.com.



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moroccan tiles H E AT H E R K A H N

Stitch a bracelet using two-hole beads to reflect the geometric mosaic patterns of Moroccan tile designs.

MAIN COLORWAY

TECHNIQUES flat peyote stitch square stitch See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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1) BASE. Work modified and embellished

peyote and square stitch to form the base of the bracelet: Row 1: Use 3' of thread to pass down through the left hole of 1D, then string 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass up through the right hole of the same D. String 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass down through the left hole of the same D, the nearest B/C/B, and up through the right hole of the D (Fig. 1, blue thread). Row 2: String the left hole of 1D and pass up through the right hole of the last D exited; repeat the thread path to reinforce and exit down through the left hole of the D just added (Fig. 1, red thread). Row 3: String 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass up through the right hole of the D added in Row 2 (Fig. 2, blue thread). String 1D, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, and 1A; pass down through the left hole of the D added in Row 2, the nearest A/B/C/B/A, and up through the left hole of the first D added in this row, the right hole of the next D, and the left hole of the top D (Fig. 2, red thread). Row 4: String 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, and 1D; pass down through the right hole of the top D added in Row 3. String the left hole of 1D and pass down through the right hole of the bottom D added in Row 3. String 1D, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, and

MATERIALS

1A; pass up through the left hole of the bottom D added in Row 3 (Fig. 3, green thread). Weave through beads to exit down through the left hole of the bottom D added in this row (Fig. 3, blue thread). String 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass up through the right hole of the last D exited (Fig. 3, red thread). Row 5: String 1D and pass up through the right hole of the nearest D in Row 4; repeat once. String 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass down through the left hole of the last D exited. Weave through beads to exit up through the right hole of the top D in Row 4 (Fig. 4, blue thread). Row 6: String 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, and 1A; pass down through the right hole of the nearest D added in Row 5. String 1D; pass down through the right hole of the next D added in Row 5. String 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, and 1A; pass up through the right hole of the nearest D in Row 4. Weave through beads to exit down through the right hole of the first D added in Row 5 (Fig. 4, red thread). String 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, and 1A; pass up through the right hole of the D added in this row. String 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, and 1A; pass down through the right hole of the nearest D in Row 5. Weave through beads to exit up through the right hole of the D added in this row (Fig. 5).

1 g metallic teal size 15° seed beads (A) 2 g metallic teal size 11° seed beads (B) 100 matte metallic teal 3mm drop beads (C) 80 matte metallic teal/bronze flat 2-hole beads (D) 7 shiny metallic teal/bronze flat 2-hole beads (E) 1 gold 10×8mm 2-strand filigree box clasp with soldered rings Size D nylon beading thread

TOOLS Scissors Extra thin Japanese beading needles or size 13 English beading needles FINISHED SIZE: 6½"

Artist’s Tips • Because two-hole beads are so thin, they are more likely to chip than other seed beads. Take extra care with their storage and handling. • Each additional completed diamond adds about ¾". • W hen working on the center embellishment, leave the thread tension a little looser than usual or the two-hole beads will pull toward the center and distort the shape of the diamond.

Fig. 1: Stitching Rows 1 and 2


Fig. 3: Stitching Row 4

Fig. 4: Adding Rows 5 and 6



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Repeat Rows 1–6 six times or to the desired length, always attaching the D in the Row 1 repeat to the D added in the Row 6 repeat. Weave through beads to exit up through the right hole of the center D in the final Row 4 repeat. 2) EMBELLISHMENT. String 1E; pass up

through the right hole of the last D exited and down through the right hole of the E just added. String 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass up through the left hole of the E just added, down through the left hole of the last D exited, and up through the left hole of the E just added (Fig. 6, blue thread). String 1B, 1C, and 1B; pass down through the right hole of the E just added (Fig. 6, red thread). Weave through beads to exit up through the right hole of the center D in the next Row 4 repeat. Repeat this entire step to embellish the center of each diamond.

Fig. 6: Embellishing the diamond

Fig. 5: Finishing Row 6

3) CLASP. Securely sew one half of the

clasp to the D at each end of the bracelet. ✦ HEATHER KAHN grew up beading at her parents’ bead business, Caravan Beads. She launched her own line of costume-inspired jewelry with her business partner, Jeff Witkavitch. Visit Chrononaut Mercantile at www.chrononautmercantile.com.

RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Tila two-hole beads, Miyuki seed beads, C-Lon nylon beading thread, and all other materials: Caravan Beads, (800) 230-8941, www.caravanbeads.net.

Take your beadwork skills to the next level with gorgeous geometric shapes. Join Beadwork Designer of the Year Jean Power as she shows you how to create flat and 3-D beaded pentagons. Boost your skills in peyote stitch with expert tips and tricks made easy. Enhance your beadwork as you: •Master peyote stitch with expert tips for start-to-finish beaded pentagons. •Skip the guesswork with easy-to-see up-close shots and large color-coded beads. •Add dimension to your pieces with instructions for herringbone and square-stitch increases. •Create individual beaded pentagons or connect several 3-D shapes. •And more!

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floradora necklace

GLORIANNE LJUBICH

Reminiscent of vintage costume jewelry, this necklace features filigree components embellished with flower shapes fashioned from drops and other beads.

TECHNIQUES stringing whipstitch wireworking See p. 126 for helpful technique information.


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MATERIALS 2 g mauve-lined clear size 11° cylinder beads (A) 13 light rose satin AB 3mm crystal bicones (B) 6 cyclamen opal 6.5×11mm crystal briolettes (C) 13 soft pink opal copper 5×3mm fire-polished rondelles (D) 16 opaque amethyst luster 3mm glass rounds (E) 16 opaque topaz/pink luster 3mm glass rounds (F) 12 amethyst 4×6mm glass teardrops (G) 42 opaque light dusty purple luster 4×6mm pressed-glass teardrops (H) 6 milky light amethyst 6×8mm glass teardrops (I) 12 milky opal 8×11mm pressed-glass topdrilled petals (J) 17 gold-plated 19mm round pointed-edge filigree components (K) 1 gold-plated 27mm round pointed-edge filigree component (L) 2 gold-plated 29.5mm domed round filigree frames (M) 1 gold-plated 34mm round pointed-edge filigree component (N) 2 brass 35mm “violet” 6-petal filigree components (O) 13 antique gold-plated pewter 11×5mm scalloped bead caps (P) 57 gold-filled 4×5.5mm 20.5-gauge oval jump rings (Q) 1 gold-filled 12.5mm 2-strand round filigree box clasp with 2×3mm oval jump rings Clear 6 lb braided beading thread

TOOLS

1) LARGE PRESSED-GLASS FLOWER FILIGREE. Embellish a filigree component

with flower shapes made of cylinder beads, pressed-glass beads, and a crystal: Bead ring: Use 2' of thread to string {1A and 1J} six times. Tie a square knot with the tail and the working thread, leaving a 6" tail. Pass through the first 3 beads strung to exit an A (Fig. 1). Weave the tail into the work, secure, and trim. Do not cut the working thread. Join: Working clockwise around 1O, pass down through a hole, about ¼" from the center of the filigree. Pass up through an adjacent hole in O. Pass through the next A. Pass down through the nearest hole in O. Repeat around to stitch all 6A to the filigree (Fig. 2). Center: Pass up through the O as close as possible to the center and through the center of the bead ring. String 1P (small end first), 1D, and 1B. Pass back through

the D and P and down through an opening in the O as close as possible to the center (Fig. 3). Note: Since the filigree used here and many of the filigrees used in the following steps have no center opening, pass down through an opening that is opposite the opening last exited so the beads are centered. Repeat the thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Set aside. Repeat this entire step to form a second large pressed-glass flower filigree. 2) LARGE CRYSTAL–FLOWER FILIGREE.

Repeat Step 1 using the N in place of O and C in place of J. 3) MEDIUM-FLOWER FILIGREE. Repeat

Step 1 using the L in place of O and I in place of J. 4) AMETHYST SMALL-FLOWER FILIGREE. Repeat Step 1 twice using 1K in place of O and G in place of J for a total of 2 amethyst small-flower filigrees.

Fig. 1: Forming the bead ring

Scissors or thread burner 2 size 12 beading needles 2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers Awl (optional) FINISHED SIZE: 17½"

Editors’ Tip If you find a three-strand box clasp that you love, as Glorianne did for this project, you can still incorporate it in this design. Simply omit the middle ring at each end of the clasp when connecting the final filigrees.

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Fig. 2: Joining A beads to O beads

Fig. 3: Forming the center of the large pressed-glass flower filigree



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5) DUSTY PURPLE SMALL-FLOWER FILIGREE. Repeat Step 1 seven times using 1K in place of O and H in place of J for a total of 7 dusty purple small-flower filigrees. 6) ROUND-FRAME FILIGREE. Embellish

a round filigree frame using the small glass rounds: Start: Use a square knot to secure 3' of thread near an opening in the inside edge of 1M, leaving a 6" tail. Pass up through the large center opening. Whipstitch: String 1E; pass up through the edge opening of the next hole. Repeat around to whipstitch a total of 16E to the inside edge of M (Fig. 4). Note: Hold the beads on top of the filigree with each stitch so they don’t twist around to the back side. Repeat entire thread path to reinforce. Secure the thread and trim. Set the amethyst round-frame filigree aside.

Repeat entire step using F in place of E. Set the topaz/pink round frame filigree aside. 7) ASSEMBLY. Starting at the center and

working out toward each end, lay out the filigree components as shown in Fig. 5. Use chain- or flat-nose pliers and Q to connect all of the components. When attaching the clasp halves, connect the Q directly to the clasp’s jump rings. ✦

GLORIANNE LJUBICH has been beading since 2000. Although she is most able to reach a Zen state while bead weaving, she utilizes multiple techniques in her eclectic style. She designs and teaches in Seattle, Washington. RESOURCES Check your local bead shop or contact: Swarovski crystals, FireLine braided beading thread, Delica cylinder beads, and all other materials: FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

Artist’s Tip If you have difficulty fitting the jump rings into any of the filigrees, try using an awl to open the hole in the filigree a bit.

Fig. 4: Embellishing the round-frame filigree

Fig. 5: Connecting the filigree components using jump rings



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techniques PASS THROUGH VS PASS BACK THROUGH Pass through means to move the needle in the same direction that the beads have been strung. Pass back through means to move the needle in the opposite direction. FINISHING AND STARTING NEW THREADS Tie off the old thread when it’s about 4" long by making an overhand knot around previous threads between beads. Weave through a few beads to hide the knot, and trim the thread close to the work. Start the new thread by tying an overhand knot around previous threads between beads. Weave through several beads to hide the knot and to reach the place to resume beading. CRIMPING Crimp tubes are seamless metal tubes used to secure the end of a beading wire. To use, string a crimp tube and the connection finding (i.e., the loop of the clasp). Pass back through the tube, leaving a short tail. Use the front notch of the crimping pliers to gently press the length of the tube, causing the tube to form into an oval and the wire ends to line each side of the tube. Move the tube to the back notch of the crimping pliers and firmly press the tube down, enclosing the wire ends in separate chambers of the crescent shape. Rotate the tube 90° and use the front notch to fold the two chambers onto themselves, forming a clean cylinder. Trim the excess wire. Twisted crimp tubes are added to wire and findings in the same way, but they are secured by squeezing once with chain- or flat-nose pliers.

BACKSTITCH BEAD EMBROIDERY Tie a knot at the end of the thread. Pass up through the foundation from back to front. *String 4 beads and lay them against the foundation. Pass down through the foundation next to the last bead added. Pass up through the foundation between the second and third beads just added, then pass through the third and fourth beads. Repeat from *.

STOP BEAD A stop bead (or tension bead) holds your work in place. To make one, string a bead larger than those you are working with, then pass through the bead one or more times, making sure not to split the thread.

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STRINGING Stringing is a technique that uses beading wire, needle and thread, or other material to gather beads into a strand.

FRINGE Exit from the foundation row of beads or fabric. String a length of beads plus 1 bead. Skipping the last bead, pass back through all the beads just strung to form a fringe leg. Pass back into the foundation row or fabric.

PICOT A picot is a decorative net, most often made with 3 beads, used to embellish a beadwork surface.

BRICK STITCH Stitch a foundation row in one- or twoneedle ladder stitch. String 2 beads and pass under the closest exposed loop of the foundation row and back through the second bead. String 1 bead and pass under the next exposed loop and back through the bead just strung; repeat.

To decrease within a row, string 1 bead and skip a loop of thread on the previous row, passing under the second loop and back through the bead.

To increase within a row, work 2 stitches in the same loop on the previous row.

For circular brick stitch, work increases as needed to keep the work flat; at the end of each round, pass through the first and last beads to stitch them together, then string 2 beads to begin the next round. For tubular brick stitch, join a ladderstitched foundation row into a ring by passing through the first and last beads of the row, with the holes facing up. *String 1 bead and pass under the closest exposed loop of the foundation ring. Pass back through the same bead and repeat, adding 1 bead at a time. Finish the round by passing down through the first bead and up through the last bead of the current round, then string 2 beads to begin the next round.

HERRINGBONE STITCH Form a foundation row of one- or twoneedle even-count ladder stitch and exit up through the final bead. String 2 beads, pass down through next bead in the ladder, and up through the following bead; repeat to the end of the row. Step up for the next row by wrapping the thread around previous threads to exit up through the last bead strung. To form the next row, string 2 beads and pass down through the second-to-last bead of the previous row and up through the following bead. Repeat, stringing 2 beads per stitch, passing down then up through 2 beads of the previous row, and stepping up as before. The 2-bead stitch will cause the beads to angle in each column, like a herringbone fabric.

Begin tubular herringbone stitch with a foundation ring of one- or two-needle even-count ladder stitch. String 2 beads. Pass down through the next bead and up through the following bead. Repeat around the ring. At the end of the round, pass through the first beads of the previous and current rounds to step up to the new round.

SQUARE STITCH String a row of beads. For the second row, string 2 beads; pass through the second-tolast bead of the first row and through the second bead just strung. Continue by stringing 1 bead, passing through the thirdto-last bead of the first row, and through the bead just strung. Repeat this looping technique to the end of the row.

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE For one-needle right-angle weave, string 4 beads and pass through the first 3 beads again to form the first unit. For the rest of the row, string 3 beads and pass through the last bead exited in the previous unit and the first 2 just strung; the thread path will resemble a series of figure eights, alternating directions with each unit. To begin the next row, pass through beads to exit the top bead of the last unit. String 3 beads and pass through the last bead exited and the first bead just strung. *String 2 beads, pass back through the next top bead of the previous row, the last bead exited in the previous unit, and the 2 beads just strung. Pass through the next top bead of the previous row, string 2 beads, pass through the last bead of the previous unit, the top bead just exited, and the first bead just strung. Repeat from * to complete the row, then begin a new row as before.

LADDER STITCH For one-needle ladder stitch, string 2 beads and pass through them again. Manipulate the beads so their sides touch. String 1 bead. Pass through the last stitched bead and the one just strung. Repeat, adding 1 bead at a time and working in a figure-eight pattern.

For two-needle ladder stitch, add a needle to each end of the thread. String 1 bead and slide it to the center of the thread. String 1 bead with one needle and pass the other needle back through the bead just added; repeat to form a strip.


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PEYOTE STITCH For one-drop even-count flat peyote stitch, string an even number of beads to create the first two rows. Begin the third row by stringing 1 bead and passing back through the second-to-last bead of the previous row. String another bead and pass back through the fourth-to-last bead of the previous row. Continue adding 1 bead at a time, passing over every other bead of the previous row.

Two-drop peyote stitch is worked the same as one-drop peyote stitch, but with 2 beads at a time instead of 1 bead.

For odd-count flat peyote stitch, string an uneven number of beads to create Rows 1 and 2. String 1 bead, skip the last bead strung, and pass through the next bead. Repeat across the row (this is Row 3). To add the last bead, string 1 bead and knot the tail and working threads, clicking all beads into place. Start the next row (Row 4) by passing back through the last bead added. Continue in peyote stitch, turning as for even-count, shown above, at the end of this and all even-numbered rows. At the end of all odd-numbered rows, add the last bead, string 1 bead, pass under the thread loop at the edge of the previous rows, and pass back through the last bead added.

To make a midproject peyote-stitch decrease, simply pass the thread through 2 beads without adding a bead in the “gap.” In the next row, work a regular one-drop peyote stitch over the decrease. Work with tight tension to avoid holes.

For circular peyote stitch, string 3 beads and knot the tail and working threads to form the first round; pass through the first bead strung. For the second round, string 2 beads and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat twice. To step up to the third round, pass through the first bead of the current round. For the third round, string 1 bead and pass through the next bead of the previous round; repeat around, then step up at the end of the round. Continue in this manner, alternating the two previous rounds. It may be necessary to adjust the bead count, depending on the relative size of the beads, to keep the circle flat.

For even-count tubular peyote stitch, string an even number of beads and knot the tail and working threads to form the first 2 rounds; pass through the first 2 beads strung. To work Round 3, string 1 bead, skip 1 bead, and pass through the next; repeat around until you have added half the number of beads in the first round. Step up through the first bead added in this round. For the following rounds, work 1 bead in each stitch and continue to step up at the end of each round.

Begin a midproject peyote-stitch increase by working a stitch with 2 beads in one row. In the next row, work 1 bead in each stitch, splitting the pair of beads in the previous row. For a smooth increase, use very narrow beads for both the two-drop and the onedrop between. Work odd-count tubular peyote stitch the same as even-count tubular peyote stitch, but it isn’t necessary to step up at the end of each round.

NETTING String a base row of 13 beads. String 5 beads and pass back through the fifth bead from the end of the base row. String another 5 beads, skip 3 beads of the base row, and pass back through the next; repeat to the end of the row. To turn, pass back through the last 3 beads (one leg of the last net). String 5 beads, pass back through the center bead of the next net, and continue.

For tubular netting, string 1A and 1B six times; pass through them again to form the foundation round. *String 1A, 1B, and 1A; skip 1B and pass through the following 1B in the previous round to form a “net.” Repeat from * twice, then step up for the next round by passing through the first 2 beads of this round. **String 1A, 1B, and 1A; pass through the middle bead of the nearest net in the previous round. Repeat from ** twice, then step up as before. Work each round the same way.

For circular netting, string 1A and 1B six times; pass through them again to form a circle for the foundation round and pass through the next 1B. *String 1A, 1B, and 1A; skip 3 beads and pass through the following bead in the previous round to form a “net.” Repeat from * twice, then step up for the next round by passing through the first 2 beads of the first net. String 2A, 1B, and 2A; pass through the middle bead of the nearest net in the previous round. Repeat twice, then step up for the next round by passing through the first 3 beads of this round. Work each round the same way, increasing the number of A beads as necessary to keep the work flat, and stepping up by passing through the first half of the first net.

LOOMWORK Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for warping your bead loom. Note that you will need one more warp thread than you have number of beads in a row. Tie a thread to an outside warp (tie onto the left warp if you are right-handed, the right warp if you are left-handed). Use a needle to string the first row of beads and slide them down to the knot. Bring the beaded weft thread under the warp threads and push the beads up so that there is one bead between each two warp threads. Hold the beads in place and pass back through all the beads, making sure that the needle passes over the warp threads. End the threads by weaving back through the beadwork, tying knots between beads.

SLIPKNOT With the tail end of the thread in your palm, wrap the working thread around your index and middle fingers, and lay the working thread across the tail end, forming an X. Spread your fingers slightly and push the working thread through your fingers from the back of your hand. Pull this loop up slightly while holding the tail end of the thread to form a knot. Place the loop onto the crochet hook and pull working thread to adjust the tension.

SLIP STITCH *Insert crochet hook in stitch, yarn over and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook; repeat from *.



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techniques (continued) CHAIN STITCH Make a slipknot on crochet hook, *yarn over and draw through loop of slipknot; repeat from * drawing yarn through last loop formed.

Join the stitches into a ring by inserting the crochet hook under the thread that goes through the first A. Make sure the first A is to the right of the crochet hook and that the working thread is passing over the first A.

Repeat from * using medium tension to continue slip-stitching 1 bead at a time. There will be 5 beads in each round; no step up is required at the end of each round, just continue slip-stitching. WIREWORKING To open a jump ring, grasp each side of its opening with a pair of pliers. Don’t pull apart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can open and close it without distorting the ring’s shape.

BEAD CROCHET Work 5 chain stitches, incorporating 1 bead in each stitch.

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Slide 1 bead down next to the work and form a slip stitch. This new bead becomes the first bead in the second round. *Insert the crochet hook under the next thread, taking care that the hook is just to the left of the next bead in the previous round. Slide the next bead down and form a slip stitch. Again, make sure the working thread passes over the previous A.

For a simple loop, use flat-nose pliers to make a 90° bend at least ½" from the end of the wire. Use round-nose pliers to grasp the wire at the tip; roll the pliers toward the bend, but not past it, to preserve the 90° bend. Adjust the pliers as needed to continue the wrap around the nose of the pliers. Trim the wire next to the bend. Open a simple loop by grasping each side of its opening with a pair of pliers. Don’t pull apart. Instead, twist in opposite directions so that you can open and close it without distorting the loop’s shape.

MORE STITCHES & TIPS! Watch free videos at beadingdaily.com to learn valuable beading tips and techniques.

To form a wrapped loop, begin with a 90° bend at least 2" from the end of the wire. Use round-nose pliers to form a simple loop with a tail overlapping the bend. Wrap the tail tightly down the neck of the wire two or three times. Trim the excess wire to finish. Make a thicker, heavier-looking wrapped loop by wrapping the wire back up over the coils, toward the loop, and trimming at the loop.



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A flawless finish every time! Join Beadwork magazine Editor Melinda Barta for this DVD that details the best finishes for your beaded jewelry designs. From embellishing with fringe and picots, to working stitch in the ditch, learn how these embellishments can give your beaded patterns a truly professional finishing touch. h. Order your copy today to: Learn these bead stitches quickly and easily with h Melinda’s expert guidance. Skip the guesswork with up-close shots, thread path diagrams, material lists, and more. See these techniques in action with dozens of inspiring examples of finished beadwork. Learn the stitches you need to know to create lovely professional beaded jewelry designs. And much more!

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