CHAPTER X A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP
To make a model that would be an exact reproduction
vote lots of time to the work. The aut a utho horr would be glad glad if you
FIG . 2 5 1 . - A SUPERDREADNOUGHT TO Y BATTLE BATTLESHI SHIP P
of a modern battleship, you would not only have to possess a set of-scale drawings of the ship, but an abundance of patience, and a willingness to de-
could make an exact model, because he knows that you would get a great deal of enjoyment and practical experience out of the work, but he suggests that
from
CARPENTRY & MECHANICS FOR BOYS by A. Neely Hall ©1918
your first model be simple. You form. Details other than those can elaborate upon a second shown upon the model illustrated can be added if you wish model as much as you please. The way to make a simpli- to spend more time upon the fied fied model of a battleship, build- work. ing, piece of machinery, or any Materials. The best mateother structure, is to get a pic- rial for model making is white ture of it, or to look upon the pine, but cypres cypress, s, spruce, or any object itself, and pick out the other soft wood, will serve the half dozen or so parts which purpose. For the hull of the
F I G . 252. — Plan and Side Elevation of Hull
determine its contour; then reproduce these parts pa rts in as nearl nearly y the correct proportion as you can. Take the author's model, shown shown in the th e photogra p hotograph ph of Fi Fig. 251, for example. example. The essential parts are not n ot many. many. They They are the hull, deck, masts, funnels, main-
battleship model shown in Fig. 251 25 1 a piece piece of 2 by 4 is of the th e right width and thickness. The funnels, turrets, and fightingtops also can be cut out of a 2 by 4. A board 5/8 inch thick is required for for the th e superstructuredeck. The masts require a nar-
F I G . 253. — The Comple Completed ted Hull
and turrets, and the row strip of wire cloth with battery guns and secondary-batterygunsbelow belowthe th e 1/4-inch mesh and four spools. deck. deck. Thedeck-rails, fighting-tops,The deck rails are also made of and wireless aerial might be wire cloth. Spools are used for omitted withou wit houtt destroying destroying the th e wheels to mount the model on. lines which give the skip its The guns are cut from dowel2
F I G . 254. 254. — Plan and Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck
Sticks 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch in diameter, the small gun mounts are cut from a 3/8-inch dowelstick. The pins connecting the various parts are cut from 1/4inch dowel-sticks. Button-moulds 1-1/4 1-1/4 inches in diamete diam eterr fit over the ends of the gun turret pivots.
Figur Figuree 252 shows a plan and side elevation of all of the th e diThe Hull, with all mensions necessary for cutting it out. Figure 253 shows the completed hull. The curves of the th e ends should be alik alike, e, and the best way to get them alike is to draw a center-line lengthwise,
FIG. 255. — Detail Showing How the Superstructure-Deck, Funnels, Masts, Fighting-Tops, Gun-Turrets, and Wireless Aerial are Assembled 3
line with a plane, and sandpaper the edges smooth. The Superstructure-Deck (6, Figs. 254 and 255) may be marked out by placing the hull block upon a board 5/8 inch thick, and marking out around its sides. The deck piece piece is a trifle more than two-thirds of the length of the hull. The dimensions are on the diagrams (Fig. 254). Openings for the guns must be cut in the deck piece along the th e side edges. The openings are made by boring 1/2inch holes 1/2 inch deep (Figs. 251 25 1 and 255). 255). They They are located located in Fig. 254. The centers are placed 1/8 inch inside of the
FIG.
257
FIG.
256
F I G. 256 256.. — Detail of Funnels FIG. 257. — Detail of ConningTower, Fighting-Tops, Tur ret Base Basess and Tur ret
and another centerline crosswise of the th e bloc block; k; then the n mark out one-half of the outline of one side, drawing the straight line with a ruler, ruler, the the curved curved line freefreehand. Trace this much upon tissue paper, reverse the paper, and transfer the line each side of the center-lines, to complete the outline. First, cut out the block roughly with a saw, thenfinish up close to the out-
FIG. 258. — Patt ern for Cutting Wire Cloth for Masts
Bore the th e pin holes in the t he deck where located in Fig. 254, and in the th e center of the funnel ends. Coat the dowel-pins FIG. 260 259 9 FIG. 25 and funnel ends with F I G . 259. 259. — Main-Bat tery Guns glue, before driving the F I G . 260 260.. —Secondary-Bat tery Guns dowel-p dowel-pins ins into the t he holes. edges, so that brads can be Flatten two opposite sides driven through the centers for of block E (Fig. 257) for pivots for the guns. Bore the The Conning-Tower, by holes befor beforee cutting cutting out out piece piece B, cutting away a section of each so there will be no danger of side, as shown in Fig. 255. Peg splitting the edges. Be caref careful ul to this block to the deck with a bore all holes of equal depth. dowelpin driven into a hole Funnels C, conning-tower E, bored at the th e point point located in Fig. fighting-tops K, turret bases AA, 254. and and turrets N (Fig (Fig.. 255) 255) are most most The Masts are built up of easily easily prepared as shown in Figs Figs.. strips of wire cloth (G and H, 256 and 257. If you can get (Fig. 258) rolled into cylinders round sticks of this diameter - with a spool inserted in each rug-pol rug -poles es or portiere portiere poles - use end ( I I and and J, Fig. 255) 255).. Th Thee strips them; otherwise, plane up two of wire cloth can be rolled blocks, one 1-1/2 inches square, around the spools. Turn in the the other 1-3/4 inches square, raw side edges edges of the th e wire strips describe a circle with the given so the wire cylinders will hold radii upon the ends of the their shape. The sticks running blocks blocks,, and whittle or plane the t he through spools J (Fig. 255) are edges edges until the the blocks blocks are round. round. crosstrees from from which which the t he wirew ireFinish up the surfaces with less-telegraph aerial (U) (U) is sussandpaper. sandpaper. With the th e blocks blocks pre- pended. Peg spool I of the forepared, pared, it is an easy easy matter matte r to to saw mast to block E with dowel-pin them up to the lengths lengths required required.. F, and peg spool I of the Thee tops of Th aftermost mast to the deck The Funnels will look bet- where the dowel-pin hole is loter if bored out for a depth of cated in Figs. 254 and 255 with 1/2 inch or so (Fig. 255). Bore another dowel-pin (F). the holes before rounding the Make the spreaders of block the funnels are to be cut The Wireless Aerial (Fig. out of, to prevent splitting. The 255) out of slender sticks, and funnels are fastened to the deck use black thread for the wire with dowel-pins D (Fig. 255). strands(U).
F I G . 261 — Detail Showing Showing How to to Cut the Main-Battery Guns from a 1/4-inch Dowel-Stick F I G . 262. — Detail Showing Showing How to Cut Secondary-Battery Gun Mount Mo untss from from a 3/8-i 3/8-inch nch Dowel-Stick Dowel-Stick F I G . 263. — Detail Showin Showing g How to Cut Secondary-Battery Guns from from a 1/8-inch Dowel-stick
Fighting-Tops K are fastened to mast spool spoolss J by means of dowel-pins L, which are driven into the spool holes. The Turret Bases and Turrets. Holes must be bored through the center of turret blocks N, turret base blocks M, 6
and into the decks (Figs. 251, 253 and 255), 255), fo forr dowel-pi dowel-pin n pivots P to run through. These holes are located in Figs. 252 and 254. Make Make the pivot pivotss out o ut of 1/4-inch dowel-sticks, or whittle sticks to this diameter. Glue the lower ends of the pivots in the holes bored in the decks, decks, whittle the th e upper ends to fit the holes in button-moulds measuring 1-1/4 inches in diameter (Q, Fig. 255), and glue the button-moulds to the pivot ends after the th e turre tur rett base bloc blocks ks and turret blocks have been slipped over the pivots. Holes must be bored in the side side of the turr tu rret et block blockss for for the guns to run into. To lessen the danger of splitting the blocks blocks while boring, it is best to bore the holes before sawing the blocks from the stick from which they are cut. Figure 257 shows the location of the holes. holes. The The Main Battery Battery Guns Guns (0, Fig. 255), mounted in the turrets, are shown in detail in Fig. 259. Take a 1/4-inch dowelstick, or a stick whittled to this diameter, and cut from it eight pieces pieces of the the length length shown (Fig (Fig.. 261), then with a small woodbit or drill, start a hole for the bore in the muzzle end of the guns, and with a jack-k jack-knif nifee carecarefully taper the guns from end to end, as shown in Fig. 259. Smooth Smooth up the th e guns with sandpaper. Glue them in the holes in the turret tur ret blocks. blocks.
F IG . 264.— Detail Detail Showin Showing g How the Deck-Rails are Fastened to Deck
The Secondary-Battery Guns are mounted in the roun round d blocks R. (Fig. 255). Cut fourteen of the blocks from a 3/8inch dowel-stick (Fig. 262). With a small bit or drill make a pivot pivot hole hole through the th e center of the ends of each block, and another hole in the side of the block to run the gun into. Prepare the guns of the shape shown in Fig. 260. Cut them from a dowel-stick 1/8 inch in diameter diameter (Fi (Fig. 263). Start a hole in the muzzle end of each gun for the bore. The The Flagstaffs (F, (F, Fig. Fig. 255) 255) are 3 inches long. Dril Drilll holes for them at the bow and stern of the decks. The
strips of wire cloth. Cut two strips 1/2 inch inch wide, one for the the superstructure deck, the other for the lower deck. Drive 3/4-inch brads into the decks decks close close to the th e sides (W, Fig. 264), bend the wire strips around the brads, and with wire bind them to the brads. brads. By fastening fastening Keel Strips X (Figs.
265 and 266) to the bottom of the hull, and mounting wheels upon axels run through screw-eyes screwed into the th e keel keel strips (Fig Fig. 266), fo forr
F I G . 265. — Side-Elevation Side-Elevation and Plan Pla n of Keel Strips
A Running Gear, your toy battleship will both float upon water and run upon land. Cut off the ends of a pair of spools forr wheels ( Y, Fig. 267), and fit fo 1 /4-inch /4-inch dow dowelel-sti sticks cks into them them for axles (Z).
DeckRails
are made of
266 F I G . 267 F I G . 266. — Details Details of Keel Keel Strips and Running-Gear Running-Gear F I G . 267. — Detail of Spoo Spooll Wheels Wheels FIG.
7
all work done as Painting. With all directed, the dreadnought will be ready for its coat of battleship-grey. The author suggests that you paint all parts before assembling. It wil willl be easier, and the parts can be allowed to become thoroughly dry before they are assembled, which will prevent prevent the sticking sticking of such such pivoted oted parts as the gu gun n turrets and and rapid-fire gun mounts. Surfaces marred while Assembling can be touched up afterwards. There is not
8
much work to putting the model together, when all parts have been properly fitted. In mounting the secondar secondary y battery guns, slip the fourteen gun mounts into the holes bored in the deck piece, then nail the deck deck piece piece to the t he hull, and drive drive brad pivots down through the deck and gun mounts, into the hull. Figure 255 indicates very plainl plainly y where the th e funnels, funnels, masts and other parts go, and fastening them in place place is for for the most part simply a job of glueing.
CHAPTER XI A TOY SUBMARINE
The toy submarine described on the following pages is a model recently devised by the th e author. author. A photograph ph otograph of this toy is shown in Fig. 268, on the page facing page 129, a side elFIG. 26 8. - A T O Y SUBMAR SUBMARINE INE THAT THAT
the bottom of the bath-tub - a tub furnishes a good "zone" for operations - nail F in trigger E comes in contact with the tub bottom with sufficient force to throw trigger E out of position and release catch J. Catch J is sprung sprun g out of of
DIVES THEN RISES TO THE WATER'S SURFACE
evation is shown in Fig. 269, and an end elevation is shown in Fig. 270. This toy submarine dives, then returns to the surface. The Mechanism is best understood by referring referring to the th e diagrams of Fig Figs. s. 269 and 270. 270 . The central section D is a tin can fill filled ed with sand, for ballast. One end is supported upon a brad, the other end upon the trigger E. Trigger E is held by catch J, which slips into a notch cut in the th e edge of of E. Can D is of sufficient weight when filled with sand, to sink the submarine. When the submarine reaches
the th e way by by rubber-band
K, trigger E is sprung out of the th e way way by rubberband G (see dotted lines in Fig. 269), and can D is released. ReRelieved of its ballast, the submarine rises to the surface. To make the boat dive again, it is but necessary to attach the tin can and reset the trigger. Instead of having the submarine dive, discharge its weight, and instantly rise to the surface, you can make the trig9
FIG. 269.—Side Elevation of Completed Toy Submarine Shown in Fig. 268. (See photograph facing Page 129)
ger mechanism less delicate, so that it will not be sprung by slight contact. Then a gentle submersion to the tub bottom will not bring about the springing of of the th e trigger trigger,, and the boat will remain upon the bottom. With a stream of water from a baths p r a y forced against the stern, the boat may be propelled forward, and by directing the th e force force of the stream F I G . 270.—End 270.—End ElevaElevation of To y Subma rine against different portions of the boat you can cause the boat to go through all sorts of maneuvers, even to rising nearly to the surface. Fina Finall lly, y, by driving th the concon10
tact point, forcibly against the foot of the bath tub, or against an obstruction placed on the tub bottom, the trigger may be sprung, and the the boat, relie relieve ved d of its weight, will rise to the surface. The simplicity of the work in making this mechanical toy will surprise you. Figure 271 shows a pattern for The Hull and Upper Decks
04), which are made in One piece. Radii for describing the arcs arcs for for the bow and stem of the th e hull are not given, because after you have located the points for the beginning and end of these the se curves, curves, as shown, you can easi easily ly draw them the m free-hand. free-hand. Th Thee cutting can be done with a saw and chisel. Cut the ends of the pocket for the tin can weight with a saw, then split out the wood between the saw cuts, or kerfs, with a chisel. Taper the sides of the bow as shown in Figs. 268 and 273.
FI G. 271. — Pattern for for Hull and Upper Decks
F I G . 272. 272. — Patt Pa ttern ern for Deck Piece Piecess
Figure 272 shows a pattern for deck pieces B. Lay these the se ou outt in one piece, as indicated, cut o ut the th e piece, saw it in half half,, and nail the halves to the sides of block A in the positions shown (Figs. 269, 270, and 274). Strips C. (Fig. 269) are fastened each side of block A (Fig. 270), directly below deck pieces 6, to complete The Ballast Pocket for can D. Figure 278 shows a pattern for these pocket strips. For the can ballast procure a 1/4-pound baking-powder can. Pack this full of sand, and if the cover fits loosel loosely y coat the edge with paint to make m ake it stick stick fast. Figures Figures 276 and 279 show details of The Trigger for Releasing
the Ballast. Drive Drive t h e nail F, a 3 inch finishing-nail, into the edge of the trigger at the angle shown. Figures 277 and 280 show how the trigger catch J is made. made . The bow of the th e hull hull must m ust be slotted to receive the upper ends of trigger E and catch J, as indicated in Figs. 271 and 273. The sides of the slot can be sawed down to the depth indicated by a dotted dott ed line in Fig Fig. 271, 271 , then the th e wood between the saw kerfs can be split out with a chisel. chisel. Use Use brads b rads for pivoting the th e trigger and catch blocks between the sides of the slot. Positions for for the th e pivots are located in Fig. 271.
Figure 269 and Figs. 273 to 277 explain the assembling and 11
FIG.
275
FIG. 273. — Detail of Hull, Decks and Periscopes F I G . 274. — Detail of Deck Side Side Pieces Pieces F I G . 275. — Tin Can Filled Filled with Sand, for Submerging Ballast FI GS . 276 and 277. — Detail of Trigger and Catch
adjustment of the trigger and catch blocks, blocks, also of the th e rubberrubbe rbands for springing springing them th em.. RubRubber-band G extends from contact tac t nai naill Fto F to a screw / in the bow (Figs. 273 and 276). To keep it from interfering with rubberband K, which extends from a brad in the lower end of catch J to screw / (Figs. 273 and 277), rubber-band G is run up and over a pair of brads (H) driven into block A upon opposite sides, then over to screw 1 (Fig. 273). When you have connected the th e trigger mechanism, mechani sm, you will will 12
probably find slight readjustments necessary to bring about a nicety of operation. To supp s upport ort the stern end of the tin can, drive a brad into block A in the position indicated in Fig. 273. The projecting rim on the can bottom will rest upon the head of this brad. This type of submarine has two tw o
Periscopes. Two brass screw-hooks 2 inches in length (L, Fi Fig. 269) answer the t he purpo p urpose. se. Screw a round-head screw (M, Figs Figs.. 269 and 273) into i nto the bow bo w end of the second deck.
Fig. 278. — Detail of Ballast-Pocket Strips
Painting. Use a battleshipgrey in painting th e toy submasub marine. Remove the rubber-bands, to keep them from being gobbed with paint, and sandpaper all surfaces smooth. Submerging the Submarine Upon Lake or Pond can be done successfully, if provision is made mad e for for recovering recovering,, the t he tin can ballast. Try this scheme. Connect one end of a line to the tin
FIG.
280 FIG. 279.—Trigger F I G . 280. 280. — Trigger Trigger Catch
can, can, and retain the th e other end of the th e line line-i -in n your hand. After fter the ballast has been released, it will be easy easy enough enough to pull pull it out of the water by means means of the line. line.
13
CHAPTER XII A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS
a fleet of toy battleships and submarines, and you will be able to have all sorts of fun. With them mounted on wheels, you can work out your fleet fleet maneuvers on the th e floor floor.. In MAKE
warfare with ships, forts, cannon, and paper and lead soldiers, diers, you don' don'tt know know what wha t exciting fun you have missed. In building the ships for a fleet, fleet, you probably will will not want w ant
F I G . 281. — A Simpl Simplee Toy Battleship
conjunction with the fort and toy cannon described in the following chapter, you can stage wonderful land and naval engagements that will take hours to fight out to a finish. If you have never played at miniature 14
to make them all of the form shown in Fig. 251 of Chapter X. Seve Severa rall of that that size size will will do. Make Make the others simple simpler, r, of the cruiser types shown in Figs. 281 and 293 of this chapter. Figu Figure re 282 shows a detail of
FIG FI G . 282 282.. — Detail Showi Showing ng How How the Hull Hull (A), ( A), Superstruct Superstructure-Dec ure-Deck k (B), (B ), Masts (C), Fighting-Tops (D and E), Funnels (G), Conning-Tower (H, I) Gun Turrets (K), Main-Battery Guns (i), Secondary Battery Guns (N), Running Gear (P, Q, R), and Aerial (S, T, U) are Assembled
15
F I G . 283. — Plan and Side Side Elevation Elevation of Hull
every part required for The Battleship shown in Fig. 281, with an indication as to how each part is assembled. Dimensions for the parts are given in the detail working drawings of Figs. 283 to 292. If you build several ships alike, alike, you will save time by making all of the parts for one ship, first, and then using these parts as patterns. terns . Mark Mark out and and cut the th e hulls all the t he (A)for all other boats, thenthe decks (8), then the masts (C), and so on. Use Use soft pine, cypress, or other soft wood, for the th e models.
alike.
The Superstructure-Deck
(6, Fig. 282) extends extends three thr ee quarters of the length of the hull, and it is of the th e same shape and dimensions as that portion of the hull (Fig. 284); therefore, it can can be marked out ou t with the th e hull hull as a pattern. The holes shown along the edge (Fig. 284) are made to rece receiv ivee the th e guns of the secondary-battery, the holes in
F I G . 284. — Plan Plan and Side Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck Superstructure-Deck
In marking out the upper face are made to reFig. 282), 282), draw draw ceiv ceivee the t he masts, funnels, etc. The Hull (A, Fig. a center-line upon the working (C, Figs Figs.. 282 282 and The Masts (C, material, as shown in Fig. 283, 285) can be whittled out of and lay off the measurements sticks, or dowel-sticks can be each each side side of this, to get the th e sides used. 16
FIGS. 286 and 287.
FIG. 285.—
—Fighting-Tops
Mast
made of two square blocks (H and l, Fig. 282). Figure 289 shows the.sizes of the blocks. Nail the blocks together, and peg the lower one (H) to. the deck deck with dowel-pin dowel-pin .7 (Fig (Fig.. 282 282). ). The Gun Turrets (K, Fig. 282) are small pieces of dowelstick (Fig. 290). The Main-Battery Guns (0- mounted in holes bored in the sides of the turrets (Fig. 290), are small small pieces pieces of dowelstick cut of the shape shown in Fig. 291. Drill a small hole through the center of the ends of eac each h turret tu rret,, through thro ugh wh whic ich h to drive drive the th e nail pivot M (Fig (Fig.. 282 282). ). The Secondary-Battery
The Fighting-Tops (D and E, Fig. 282) are button-moulds of the sizes shown in Figs. 286 and 287 287.. The larger one (D) must have its hole enlarged so it will slip over the mast, the smaller one (E) rests on the mast-top, and is held in place by the nail F I G . 288. 288. — Funnel F driven into the mast F I G . 289. — Details of Conning Conning Tower Tower (Fig (Fig.. 28 282). 2). Figu Figure re 288 shows a detail of Guns (A/, Fig. 282) are the ends The Funnels (G). Use a of burnt matches. Figure 292 dowel-stick if you can get one, shows the length to cut them. otherwise whittle a stick stick to the Th This is toy toy model is mounted mou nted upon given diameter. wheels so that it can be run t he floo floor, r, as well well as floated floated The Conn ing-Tower is upon the upon water. Use (P, Fig. Fig. 282 282), ), Spool Spool Wheels Whe els (P, cut the th e stic stick k axle axless (Qto lit lit snugly snugly in the spool holes, and support the axle ends with screweyes R, screwi screwing ng these into the hull. hull. The The Wirel Wireless ess Aerial Aerial is susF I G . 290. — Turr et and Guns Guns pended between the mast-tops FIGS. 291 and 292. —Guns 17
F I G . 293. — Toy Battleship Battleshi p with with Propelle Propellerr
F I G . 294. — Plan of Complete Completed d Toy Battleship
F I G . 295. — Plan of Hull
(Fig. 282). Use toothpicks for spreaders S and thread threa d for wire strands T and end loops loops U. The Cruiser shown in Fig. 293 is propelled by a paddlewheel operated by a twisted rubber-band. The rubberband 18
untwists rapidly, so that the boat does not travel far before a re-twisting is necessary, but boys bo ys who have made made this model have been satisfied with the results, sults, so the th e author a uthor belie believe vess that th at you will be satisfied, also.
the location of their cen297 ters shown upon the diagram. Holes E are for the funnel ends to fit in. Make them 5/8 inch in diameter. Holes F are for the mast F I G . ends to fit in. Bore them th em in 296 the positions indicated making them 1/4 inch in FIGS. 296 and 297.—Plans of Superstructurediameter. Deck Blocks Cut block C of the same Figure 294 shows a plan of width and length length as bloc block k 8, out o ut the the completed ship. The method of constructi construction on is quite similar to that of the battleship just described, so read over the instructions for making making that model model before beginning beginning work work on this one. The Hull (A) is shown in plan in Fig. 295.. Afte 295 Afterr marking this out and cutting it, it, in the t he same way as described for the. other model, prepare the blocks which form The Superstructure-Deck (8 and C, Figs Figs.. 296 296 and 29 297). 7). Cut Cut block B out of material material 5/8-inch thick, by the width and length given. Bore the turret openings ings along the th e sides before cutting out the block, to prevent splitShowing ng How SuperstructureSuperstructu reting it. Make these F I G. 298. — Detail Showi Deck (Band C) , Gun Turrets (D),Funnels openings 1 inch in di(E ) , Masts (F) , and Fighting-Tops (H) are ameter. You will find Assembled FIG.
19
of material 1/4 inch thick. Bore holes E and and F through it in the same places as those bored through block B, so that when the th e two bloc blocks ks are placed together, the FIG. 299 FIG. 300 holes will will come over over one on e F I G . 299 — Detail of Gun Tu Turre rrett another (Fig. 298). F I G . 300. 300. — Detail Detail of Funnel The eight revolving Guns. s. Set Set fiv fivee of these in holes holes Gun Turrets (D, Fig. 294) Gun can be sawed from a broom bored along each side of the handle or portiere-pole. Figure hull, and three in holes in each 299 shows the size to cut them. them . side edge of deck piece C. (Fig. The hole in the side is made to 293 293). ). Yo You can can cut these thes e like like the receive a gun. The turrets "fore main battery guns. and aft" have two holes each, The Funnels (F, Fig. 298) for two guns. Another small are shown in detail in Fig. 300. hole must be dr dril ille led d through the t he They drive down through the center center of the ends of the turrets, holes bored in blocks blocks B and and C of as a provision for pivoting the the deck. turrets turr ets so tha t hatt they will will revolv revolve. e. The Masts (F) are 1/4 inch in diameter and 6 inches inches long. Slip Slip spools G upon them to come at the foot, and halfway between the spools and the th e mast tops fasten fasten the spool ends H for You u will will Fighting-Tops. Yo
find find it easy easy to cut off off the th e ends of a spool if you FIG. 301 FIG. 303 will slip a stick through FIGS. 301-303. — Details of Propeller the spool, to hold the Figur Figuree 298 shows shows the th e size size to spool by while sawing. The first step in cut the model conconAssembling the The Main-Battery Guns. If you want to save work, do not sists in nailing block B to hull A th e position position indicated by dottaper the sides of the guns as in the shown. The tapering, however, ted lines in Fig. 295. Then adds much much to their thei r appearance. mount the gun-turrets, six to openings in the side sidess The Secondary-Battery turn in the openings 20
of block B, the remaining two "for "foree and aft" 1 /4 inch inch from from the th e ends of block 8. Having mounted the turrets, nail deck block C to block block B. The PaddleWheel (Fig. 301) is made of two pieces (/ and and J, Fig. 302) 302),, halved halved together together-that is, each piece has a slot cut across across half half its its depth, so that th at the th e two will interlock as shown in Fig. 301. Cut the pieces out of wood 1/8 inch thick. Drive a double pointed tack into the center of each end of the assembled paddle-wheel, and connect a rubberband to each tack. Then Then take tak e a pair pair of screw-
eyes, open each eye enough to form a hook (K, Fig. Fig. 303), 303), screw the pair into the corners of the stern of the hull, at the angle shown in Figs. gs. 293 and 294, 294, and slip the ends of the rubberbands over over them. By setting the screw-eyes at the angle indicated, cated, there th ere is greater length length of rubber-band to twist in winding the motor. This is important. If you make this cruiser model for your indoor battleship ship fleet, fleet, you you had better mount moun t it upon wheels in the same manner as the model shown in Fig. 281 is mounted.
21
CHAPTER
XIII
TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE
battles fought with toy soldiers and toy artillery can be made as scientific as MINITAURE
excitement. When visiting several large toy shops recently, the author
FIG . 3 0 4 . - MINIATURE MINI ATURE BATT BATTLE LES S CAN CAN BE FOUG F OUG HT SCI SCIENT ENTIFI IFICAL CALLY LY
those of real war, if one under- was impressed with the comequipm ent for for minstands military military tactics. Without With out pleteness of equipment realized how that knowledge, however, you iature warfare, yet realized impractical al it was to expect that th at can make up your own rules of impractic warfare, warfare, and the author beli believ eves es the average boy with limited that no more interesting game pocket-money might buy for an evening, or for a whole enough of the equipment for a day, day, in fact, could could be found. That That battle-field setting. Then he remore bo boys ys do not play play with-toy membered as a lad how easily soldiers is probably because he had made guns, forts, etc., they haven't sufficient proper- for miniature battles, and he ties for for staging a battle. b attle. A hand- decided to show you how you ful of soldiers and "dummy" can do the same. Accordingly, cannon will will not answer the the pur- when he went home he sumpose. There must be men and moned his own lead soldiers, equipment enough for two op- who had last seen service some posing armies, and the guns twenty-five years ago, and to a must be of a type that th at shoot pla play y man they responded (including shells, else they will afford little three men decapitated by shell 22
The author never owned more than a small company of lead soldiers, and therefore depended upon paper soldiers forr the fo th e main main fighting strength of his FIG. FIG . 3 0 5 . - FIELD FIELD ARTI ARTILL LLER ERY Y GUN armies. Next Next to toy soldiers fire in one of the engagements in importance are guns, and in of the early nineties). A "muni- Figs. 305 and 306 you will find tion factory" was then orga- two excellent models that are nized, miniature fortifications not hard to make. Shaping the built, and a battlefield prepared with men and artillery in battle formation, as pictured in the photograph of Fig. 304. If you do not no t own any lead soldiers, sold iers, you will find a good type of soldiers in the stores right now that Sell at 50 cents a dozen. Paper soldiers can be purchased for 2 cents c ents a dozen. Lead Lead soldiers soldiers look best, of course, bu butt paper soldiers serve excellently.
FIG. 3 0 6 . - SIEGE ARTILLERY GUN. GUN .
guns is a simple problem in boring and whittling. A working detail of The Field Artillery Gun is shown in Fig. 307 307.. The gun tube tu be is made in two pieces, as is shown in the longitudinal section of Fig. 308 (A and and B). Use straight-grained, soft pine, free from knots and other defects for the tube tu be pieces. pieces. Firs Firstt cut a pair of bloc blocks ks to the the dimensions of A and 6 (Figs. 309 and 310). Then with a 3/8-inch bit bore a hole through the entire length of block A, FIG. 307. — Detail of Field Artillery Gun 23
at its center. A hole must be line. bored through thro ugh bloc block k B from from end end With the blocks bored, put to end, also also,, but but three diameters a keen keen edge upon you yourr jackknife jackknife must be used used for for this, hole, as is blade, blade, preparatory to indicated by dotted lines in Fig. Shaping Shaping the Outside Outside of the th e 310. 31 0. To make this hole, first bore Gun. Figures 311 and 312 show a hole 3/4 inch deep with a the diameters to which the 5/8-inch bit, then with a 3/8- blocks should be cut. Shape inch bit and the same center, down the small end of each continue the th e hole for for a distance block first, then work back to of 3 inches inches,, and fro from m that th at point the other end. end. At the muzzle end end bore the hole through the re- of the block A, make the wood maining 3/4-inch length of the around around the th e bore as thin as you you block with a 1/4-inch bit. In or- can cut it without cutting der to produce a bore that is through, and from that point straight, it is necessary to bore taper the wood wood up to the other the holes exactly in a straight end. Round off the breech end end
FIG
314 31 4 FIG.
FIG.
315
Fig. ig. 315 313 313 F I G . 308. — Longitudinal Longitudinal Section Section of Gun Sho Shown wn in Fig. 30 307 7 FIGS. 309 and 310. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun FIGS. 311 and 312. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped FIGS. 313 and 314. — Details of Plunger F IG. IG . 315. — Detail of 3/8-i 3/8-inc nch h Shell
FIG.
24
313
FIG. 323
FIG.
317
FIG. FI G. 316.—Rea 316.—Rearr Elevation Elevation of of Mounte Mounted d Gun FIG. FI G. 320. — Wheels FIG. FI G. 317.—Detail 317.— Detail of Gun Carr Carria iage ge FIG. FI G. 321. — Spool Wheel Wheel Hub FIG. FI G. 318.— Pattern Pattern for for Carr Carria iage gess FIG. FI G. 322. — Wheel Wheel Axle Axle FIG. FI G. 319.— 319.—Car Carria riage ge Separator Separator Block FIG. FI G. 323. — Bed Block Block for Gun
25
of block B, and taper off the other end, as shown. Aft After cutting, sandpaper the th e surfaces of both pieces of the tube until absolutely smooth, and see that th at the end of piec piecee A fits snugly into the hole in the end of B; these sections are to be glued together later. The Plunger (C, Fig. 308) may be either a piece of a dowel-stick, or a stick whittled round, of the th e size shown in Fig. 313. Drill a small hole through the plunger stick 1-1/2 inches from one end, slip a piece of spring-brass wire through the hole, and wind the wire loosely around the stick to about the point shown, to form a spiral spring. Slip the end of the plunger into section B of the gun, and out through the hole in the breech. Saw off the end of a spool (D, Fig. 314), glue it upon the end of the plunger (Fig. 308), and drive a small brad through the spool spool end into the the plunger end, to reinfo reinforce rce the connection. Test Test the the Gun Gun to see that the spring rebounds properly after its compression, before you glue sections A and and B together. Figure 315 shows a detail of the Three-Eig Three-Eighths hths Inch Shells Sh ells.. These can be sawed up quickly, to the given length, if you will cut them from a 3/8-inch dowel-stick. Taper one end of each shell to a point, as shown, and sandpaper smooth. To 26
make the shells discharge from the gun with a minimum amount of friction, wax them and wax wax the bore of the gun. If you find that the spring does not recoil satisfactorily, try a smaller or larger gauge of brass wire. Provided you use spring-brass wire, you should have no trouble with the coil. Spac Spacee the th e turns tu rns of the coil about as shown in Fig. 313. With the spring properly adjusted, glue together the two sectio sections ns of the gun tube, and the gun will be ready for mounting on The Gun-Carriage. Figure 316shows a rear elevationof the mounted gun, and Fig. 317 shows a detail of the carriage framework. framework. Th Thee pair of carriages carriages F may may be prepared in one piece, piece, cut out of a piece of wood 5/8 inch thick, then sawed in half. Figure 318 shows a dimensioned pattern for marking out the piece. The 1/4-inch hole is forr the wheel axle fo axle;; the t he 1 /8-inch hole is for the trunnion screws on which the gun is to be mounted. Separator block G (Fig (Fig.. 31 317) 7) braces braces the th e trail of the carriage. Make it of the size shown in Fig Fig. 319 319.. Befo Before re fastenfastening carriages F to G, cut wheel axle K (Fig (Fig.. 322), and slip it into the holes bored for it, to keep the holes opposite one another while you nail the pieces together. The Gun-Carriage Wheels (l) may be prepared in one
piece, then sawed in half. Fig- the diagram of Fig. 323. Glue ure 32 320 0 shows the pattern. patte rn. The the gun to the bed block, and best way way to cut a wheel is to saw when the glue has set drive a out the pieces roughly, first, small screw through each 1 carthen trim up to the finish line riage into it. The Elevating Device of with a sharp chisel, and sandpaper the edge smooth. The this home-made gun is simple. wheel hubs are spool ends (J, Drive four brads into the top Fig. 321). Fasten them to the edge of each carriage (Fig. 317), wheels with glue. Drive brads and cut the cross-bar H to slip th e brads. brads. The bar can can through the axle ends for pins between the to keep the wheels from com- be adjusted to four positions. The Siege Gun shown in Fig. 306 is made in much the same way as the fiel field d artillery artillery gun just ju st described. described. In the th e detail of the completed gun (Fig. 324), the dotted lines indicate two of the positions to which the gun can be elevated. The carriage is pivoted-like a turntable to provide for shifting the position latFiG. 324. — Detail of Siege Artillery Gun erally. Figur Figuree 325 shows a longitulongituing off. Mounting the Gun. Be- dinal section of the gun. The caus causee of the thinness of the ttube ube tube is made of two pieces (A of the gun gun,, the scre screw w trunnions and 8), and Figs. 326 and 327 cannot be driven driven into it. The The gun show the dimensions of the blocks ks out o ut of whic which h to cut them. must be mounted upon a bed- bloc block (E, Figs igs. 31 316 6 and 323 323), ), and Bore a 5/8 inch hole through the trunnions screwed into the the center of block A, from end block's sides. The upper side of to end, and a hole of the same size through throug h all all but 1 /4 inc inch h of block E must be curved the size same as the t he surfac surfacee of the gun. the length of block B then with To get the right right curve curve,, bore a 1 - a 1/4-inch bit bore a hole remaining ng 1 /4-inch inch hole through a block, then through the remaini cut this block through at the of the length of block B (Fig. center of the hole, and trim it 327). Care must be taken to up to the th e dimensions dimensions shown shown in bore the holes absolutely 27
FIG. 332
FI G. 333
F I G . 325. — Longitudinal Section Section of Gun Show Shown n in Fig. 324 FIGS. 326 and 327. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun FIGS. 328 and 329. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped FIGS. 330 and 331. — Tube Blocks Completed F I G . 332. —Spool Conne Connecto ctorr F I GS . 333 333-33 -335. 5. — Details of of Plunger F I G . 336. 336. — Half-inc Half-inch h Shell Shell
28
straight, straight, else else the bor boree of the gun will will not be straight, and and the toy shells will lose momentum before leaving the muzzle of the gun. Thee first step in Th Shaping the Gun is similar to that of shaping the field artiller tillery y gun. Whittle Whittle off the edges edges of blocks A and and B as shown in Figs Figs.. 328 and 329. Th Thee sides of block B must be kept straight; the th e sides sides of block block.. A must must taper tap er to a smaller diameter at the muzzle end. Figures 330 and 331 33 1 give give the diameters fo forr the finished ends. In trimming up block A, cut the flange at the muzzle, end to the same diameter as the opposite end Clinch), inch), then taper the t he woo wood d from from the opposite end towards the flange, making the thickness over the bore directly back of the th e flan flange, ge, not no t much much more more than the thickness of paper. Round block B at both ends, as shown in Fig Fig. 331. The pieces will will then th en be ready for sandpapering. Pieces A and B are connected by the tube C, a spool (Fig. 332) with its flanges cut off, and its sides whittled to fit snugly in the bores of A and and B (Figs. 325 and 332). Beforejoiningt in gthe he gun-tube sections sections,, however. The Plunger for projecting the th e toy shell shellss (D, Fig. Fig. 32.5) mus mustt be prepared, and be fastened in place in-the breech end of the bore. Dri Drill a hole through throug h rod D
1-1/2 1-1/ 2 inches from from one one end, stick stick the end of a piece of springbrass wire through the th e hole (Fi (Fig. 333), and wrap severa severall turns turn s of the wire about the rod to form a spiral spring (Fig. 334). With the spring prepared, stick the rod through the breech opening, and fasten a spool-end upon it with glue glue and a brad (E, Figs. 325 and 335). When you have tried out the gun and found it to fire satisfactorily with One-half Inch Shells (Fig. 336), cut out o ut of dow dowel el-st -stic icks ks in the way that the shells for the other gun were made, glue together parts A, B, and and C. The Gun Carriage is shown
in detail in Fig. 337. Cut carriages A in one piece, out of 5/8-inch stuff (Fig. 338), then saw in half for the pair. Drill a hole where indicated, through which to run the trunnions on which the cannon is to be mounted. Cut base block B to the dimensions given in Fig. 339, nail the carriages to its sides, and drive lever C into a hole bored bored in one end. Cut Cut turntable base D of the size shown in Fig. 340, bore a screw-hole through its center and drive a screw through the hole into base B of the gun carriage. The The trunnion screws on which the gun is mounted, moun ted, can can be screwed screwed through the holes in carriages A direct directly ly into tub tubee B of the gun gun,, because the thickness of the 29
339 F I G . 337. — Detail of Gun-Carriage Gun-Carriage F I G . 338. — Patter n for for Carriage Carriagess FIG.
340 F I G . 339. — Carriage Base Base FI G. 340. — Turntable Turnt able Base Base FIG.
bores; in fact, be careful not to let any paint run into them, for this would gum them up, and possibly spoil the action of the plunger. Figure 341 shows A Fortification made out of a piece of 2 by 4. Figure 342 shows shows how to mark mark ou outt the emwithout Painting, Paint ing, but a coat of bla black brasures, or openings for guns. or grey paint paint will will much improve Cut down the sides of the emtheir appearance. Do not at- brasures with a saw, and split tempt tem pt to paint the insi inside de of the out the wood between the saw chisel. kerfs with a chisel. Pieces cut from a 1 /2-inch dowel-stick, 2 3/4 inches long, with with a hole started in one end of each (Fig. 343), will answer admirably for play
wood around the bore is 3/8 inch. Do not drive the screws deeper than one-half of this thickness. The Elevating Devic Devicee is the same as that provided for the other gun (Fig. 337). You can leave your guns
F I G. 341. — Fortifica Fortification tion 30
Disappearing Guns. Guns. Drive
up along a wall wall of a room, and a tack into the breech end of covered with a rug, will give eleach gun, and another into the evation and perspective to the fortification, beneath each em- background. Notice that the brasure, then the n connec connectt the tacks borders of the rug used in the with pieces of string (Fig. 341). battle scene shown in Fig. 304 The purpose of the strings is make make roads. r oads. Hang Hang a sheet sh eet fro from m merely to keep the guns from tacks driven into the picture becoming separated from the moulding, fo forr a sky background. fort, and getting lost. Build small houses, churches, A Flagstaff is mounted in and other buildin buildings gs out o ut of cardcard-
FIG.
343
FIG.
344
FIG. 342. — Pattern for Fortification F I G . 343. — Detail of Gun F I G . 344 344.. — Flagst Flagstaff aff
the th e center embrasure embras ure of the forfortification, instead of a gun (Fig. 341). Stic Stick k a small flag in a bloc block k of woo wood, d, set the bloc block k in the t he embrasure, and connect connect a string to tacks driven into the block and into the t he fortific fortificatio ation. n. As the th e flag is to be fire fired d upon, don' don'tt use an Americ American an flag. flag. That That would be an act of disloyalty. You can make a small small flag by fastening a piece of cardboard to the end of a stick, as shown in Fig. 344 Suggestions for Layi Laying ng Out the Battlefield will be obtained from the photogr tograp aph h of Fi Fig. 304. 304. Book Bookss piled
board. Use evergreen twigs for trees. Make tents out of small pieces of cardboard folded Vshape. The author wishes that he might show some of the other battle scenes scenes he has modeled, with hills, hills, valle valleys, ys, stream streams, s, bridges, bridges, etc., but space does not permit it. There are many ways of waging miniatur miniaturee wars. wars. Yo You can make and develop your own rules for for fighting, fighting, and for determining the victors. Mr. H.G. Wells, the English author, literary critic, and war correspondent, wrote an interesting vol31
ume several years ago, entitled "Lit "Littl tlee Wars Wars ," which, if you can procure at your local public library, will give you many valuable suggestions for operating on both a large and a small scale. Mr. Wells has spent several days at a stretch, with friends, in working out miniature war maneuvers, and you will find his descriptions of battles won and lost, intensely
32
interesting. The The author' au thor'ss miniature battles, participated in by his brother, and his chum Captain David Ross Fraser, U.S.A., will always be remembered by each as among the most thrilling of their boyhood pastimes. Batt Battle less were fought out out to a finish, until every gun on one side had been silenced, every man slain.
CHAPTER
XVII
A TOY MACHINE-GUN IF you will carefully follow the instructions and working details given given in this t his chapter, you
twelve revolutions. It will wipe out an army of toy soldiers in no time at all. If you want to,
will have in your possession after a few hours work, the toy machine-gun shown in Fig. 408. This This gun will will fire fire twelve wooden woo den cartridges in as short a time as it takes to turn the firing-crank
you can organize organize a machine-gun squad and drill out in the open as the boys in the photograph of Fig. 409 are doing. A pamphlet on machine-gun drill can be obtained from the Superin33
= •
.
* •
FIG. 409. - SQUAD WITH TOY MACHINE-GUN. THE HELMETS ARE MADE OF TIN WASH-BASINS.
tenden ten dentt of Documents, Go Gove vern rn-ment Printing Office; Washington, D.C Figu Figure re 410 410 shows a detail of the completed machine-gun, and the tripod mount. Figures 411 and 412 412 are longitudinal sections through the stock, barrel, and cartridge chamber and maga-
showing the th e hammer and and zine, showing f iringmechanism. Figur Figuree 413 413 shows a longitudinal section of the gun-stock. This is the first part of the gun to prepare. It is made of three parts (A, B, and C). Figure 414 shows shows dimensions of the. the . bloc blocks ks required for parts A and and B. After planing up these blocks square and true, and of the given dimensions, draw diagonal lines across both ends of block A, and across one end of block B, to locate the centers. Then with a 5/8-inch bit bore a hole through the th e center of bloc block k A from end to end, and another 34
hole hole through the t he center of B for a distance of 7 inches. These holes are for the barrel (F, Figs. 411 and 417), 417), a piece of brassbrass tubing tubi ng 1 /2 inch inch in diameter. The The reason for for boring the th e hole larger larger than the barrel is so that the barrel can be mounted straight even though the hole runs a trifle off center. This will allow for only a slight correction, so you must bore the holes accurately. rately. The brass tubin tu bing g used for the barrel must not be forced into a crooked hole, as it will bend easily, and a bent bore would make a poor gun. It is best to bore from both ends of block A halfway through the length. When the holes have been bored, round off the top of block A from end to end, as shown in Fig. 415, and shape shape off the top of block B at the end through which the barrel hole has been bored, so when blocks A and 6 are joined their their ends will will
match. mat ch. Two Two mortises must mus t be cut cut in block B, one mortise down through throu gh the top as far far as the barrel bore, the other up through the bottom as far as the bore. The mortises are located, and thei th eirr size sizess are indicated, ind icated, on Figs. Figs. 413 and 415. Mark out the mortises carefully. Bore several 1/2-inch holes inside of the mortise lines, boring them as deep as the barrel bore, then cut out the wood between the holes with a chisel, and square up the mortises. When blocks A and B have been prepared, fasten them together with plate C (Fig. 413). Cut this of the same width as the blocks, and 10 inches long, and lap it as shown. Handle E on the breech end is a wire coat-hook. Mark Out side pieces D of the stock frame by the pattern shown in Fig. 416. The easiest way
to prepare these parts so they will be alike is to tack together two 3/8-inch boards, mark out the th e outline upon one board, board, and then saw out the two pieces at
F I G . 410. — Detail of Machine-G Machine-Gun un and Tripod 35
FIG. 411. — Machine-Gun before Hammer has been Drawn Back
one time. time . Plan Planee up and sandpa- must be straight, and its ends per the edges before separating must be reamed out with a file the pieces. Also, bore the holes if burrs remain on the inside shown in Fig. 416 - four 1/8- edges from the cutting of the inch holes near the top edge, pipe. The author author used a piece of of and four holes of the sizes iron gas-pipe in his first model, marked marked,, in the th e positions positions located. located. but found that brass tubing is Use for these holes will be better as it presents presents a smoother shown later. inside surface, surface, it is easier to cut, The piece of tubing for also. Yo You can can get brass tubing tubing at The Barrel must be free almost any machine-shop. If from corroSion on the inside, it they haven't a piece piece of the right size at hand, they will likely get a piece for for you, or be able to tell
F I G . 412. — Machine-G Machine-Gun un with Hammer Hamm er in Position Position for for Firing 36
FIG.
FIG.
415
416
F I G . 413. 413 . — Longitudinal Section Section of Machine-Gun Machine-Gun Stock Stock FIGS. 414 and 415. — Details of Stock FI G. 416. — Detail of Stock Stock Frame
you where where you can get it. A piece piece 20 inches long is required. Figures 417 and 418 show how the chamber end of the barrel barrel must m ust be slotted for a length of 2 inches, and how the upper half of the tubing tubi ng must mus t be cut awa away
for a distance of 4 inches. You can cut the slot with a flat file 1/8 inch thick, using it edgewise, wise, and making the th e slot equal in width to the thickn thickness ess of the file. The upper part of the tubing can can be cut away away by using the 37
FIG. FIG.
420
417 41 7
FIG.
FIG.
419
418
FIGS. 417 and 418. — Details of Tubing for Machine-Gun Barrel FIGS. 419 and 420. — Details of Front Sight
file flatwise. The pair of small holes shown pierced through the tubing near its end are provided for anchoring the barrel in the t he gungun-stock stock by driving driving a finishing-nail through the gunstock and through the holes. The Front Sight (Z, Fig. 410)
is a strip of tin of the th e size size shown shown in Fig. 419, bent to fit over the muzzle of the barrel, with the tip of one end of the strip hammered mered ov over er on to the other end end (Fig (Fig.. 42 420) 0)..
FIG.
The wire for The Hammer Rod (G, Figs.
411 and 412) 412) must must be of No. No. 6 gauge. Figures 421 and 422 show the correct correct shape and size. size. To make the turns at the point for pivoting, bend the wire around a bolt or do,wel-stick. Spools H (Fig. 421) are used to keep the rod centered half way between sides D of the gunstock frame. Cut of off as much of the end of each spool as is necessary to make the pair of the
423
FIGS. 421 and 422. — Details of Hammer-Rod and Pivot F I G . 423. — Detail of Firing-Crank 38
FIG.
428
FIG.
427
FIG.
FIG.
424
425
F I G . 424. — Detail of Cartridge F I G . 425. — Magazine Filled with Cartridges FIGS. 426 and 427. — Details of Magazine F I G . 428. — Weight for Holding Holding Cartridges in Position
right length to fil fill the th e space spac e each side of the th e rod. A 1 /4-inc /4- inch h bolt 3 inches in length is required for the hammer-rod pivot (/, Fig. 421). The Hammer Spring is a screen-door spring (J, Figs. 411
and 421). Pull out several turns of on onee end as shown sh own in Fig Fig. 421, 42 1, and slip them over the upper end of the hammer rod. Pin the other end of the th e spring between pieces D with the nail K (Figs. 410 and 411), slipping the nail 39
FIG.
435
FIG.
437
FIG.
429
FIG. 432
FIG.
433
FIG.
431
F I G . 429. — Machine-Gun Machine-Gun Tripod FIGS. 430-434. — Details of Tripod FIGS. 435-437. — Details of Yoke for Mounting Gun on Tripod
through the holes in the fore end of pieces D. It may be necessary to break off an inch or so of one end of the spring, to make it short enough so it will be held held in tension when when its ends are fastened.
before the latter are fastened to the th e stock. Figur Figuree 41 411 shows the right position for the hammer tip when the hammer-rod has been released, and Fig. 412 shows the point to which the hammer must be drawn by the The Firing Crank (L., Figs. firing-crank rod tripper before released. If you have bent be nt 410 41 0 and 411) 411) is made made of wire of being released. the same thick thicknes nesss as that th at used the hammer-rod and firingcrank rod rod as shown shown in the the drawforr the hammer-rod. Figu fo Figure re 423 crank shows dimensions for bending ings, the hammer tip should the piece. The loop bent in this come at the two points shown. it does not, bending the wires piece of wire acts as a tripper If it on the the hammer-rod end, as you at slightly different angles will will see by looking at Figs. 410 bring about the proper adjustand 411. The hammer-rod, ment. spring, and firing firing-cr -crank ank must must be Before proceeding further mounted in the gun-stock with the construction, it will be frame between side pieces D well well to test test out the machinemachine-gun gun 40
then wax and polish them. To make the bore of the barrel as smooth as possible, pour oil into it, and then, with a piece of soft rag on the end of a slender stick, spread the oil and remove the surplus. surplu s. Give plenty of time to testing the firing efficiency of the gun, and adjust and reFIG. 439 adjust adjust the hammer-rod hammer-rod and firing-crank rod until you are are satisfied satisfied with the results obtained. The The Magazine (Fig. 425) is fastened to the gun-stock directly over the upper mortise, so that the cartridges dropped into it wil willl slip slip into the t he chamber beneath. Figure 426 shows how to cut the piece of tin required FIG. 43 438 8 forr the fo th e magazine, magazine, from from the th e side side of a tin can. Leave the turned over edge on the can side, as shown, to reinforce the upper edge of the magazine. Figure 427 gives the dimenF I G . 438. — Wash-Basin Wash-Basin Helmet Helmet sions for cutting and FIGS. 439-441.—HOW to Attach Rings and Straps foldin folding g the piec piecee of tin. to Wash-Basin Bend the t he lower lower edge to with form flanges through which to Cartridges. These are drive tacks for fastening the pieces of dowel-sticks 3/8 inch magazi magazine ne to the top of the th e gunin diameter, cut to the length stock. shown in Fig. 424, 424, with one end The weight shown in Fig. whittled cartridge-shape. Sand- 428 is necessary to hold down paper the cartridges smooth, the cartridges so the bottom FIG-441
41
cartridge will always be in the right position in the chamber for the hammer to strike. A piece of solder, or a piece of almost mos t any kind kind of metal, will will do. If you use solder, a screw-eye can be set into one side, to which which to attach a piece piece of string as a means for lifting out the weight after after the last last of the carcartridges has been fired, preparatory to refilling (Fig. 425). The slot in the side of the magazine is made wide enough so the t he finfinger can be slipped along it to guide the cartridges dropped into the magazine. Figure 410 shows The Tripod mount for the machine-gun, and Figs. 429 to 434 show show details of its construction. Prepare the head block P of the dimensions given in Fig. 434, and cut three notches in the edge, of the sizes shown, and spaced spaced equidistantl equidistantly, y, fo forr the th e legs. legs. Bor Bore the center hole to receive the yoke spindle V (Fig. 436). Cut the front pair of legs R and the rear leg leg S of the th e sizes sizes shown in Fig Fig. 431 431 Bore Bore a 3/ 3/8inch hole through each leg 1-1/ 11/4 4 inches inches from from the upper end, and cut off the corners of the lower end as shown. To mount the legs, screw a screweye into the tripod head each side of each notch (7", Fig. Fig. 432) 43 2),, then cut the th e dowel-pin dowel-pin pivots pivots U (Fig. 433), and drive them through screw-eyes T and through the holes in the legs 42
(Fi (Fig. 429 429). ). Cut socket block block Q of the th e size size shown shown in Fig Fig. 434, 434 , bore a hole through its center to receive the yoke V, and fasten it to the exact center of tripod head P. Prepare yoke yoke V and lever W (Fig. 435) of the dimensions shown in Fig Figs, 436 436 and 437. Cut the spindle on the lower end of yoke V to fit the hole in socket block Q , and bore a hole through the upper end of the yoke yo ke through throu gh which which to dr driv ivee the t he axi axis bolt for for pivoting the gun, to provide for for changing changing elevations. Use the thumb-bolt X and wing-
bolt Y (Fig (Fig.. 410 410)) for making this th is connection. Paint all parts of the gun blac black k or grey. To make the t hem m less conspicuous in the field, it is common practice to paint guns by what is known as the "rainbow smudge" system. But you will not want to dabble in the art of camouflage when finishingyour toy machine-gun. machine-gun. To be an up-todate machine gunner, you must wear like that th at the t he bo boys ys A Helmet like in Fig Fig. 409 40 9 are wearing. wearing. A detail of this helmet is shown in Fig. 438. It consists of a tin washbasin 11 inches in diameter diameter (Fig. (Fig. 439) with a pair of rings bent out of wire (Fig. 440) soldered to the inside, inside, through throu gh which which to run the chin-strap (Fig. 441) Stitch the strap to the rings, to keep the basin from slipping sidewise.
CHAPTER XVIII DRILL-GUNS
EVERY boy wants to belong to
a drill-club, and if instruction military trainfrom a man with military ing can can be obtained, there ther e is no
When the th e author was a lad, lad, the neighborhood boys organized a drill club, and commissioned him to make guns. guns . These These
FIG. 442. - MAKING DRILL-GUNS.
reason why a boys' club or class should not organize a drill club. INFANT NTRY RY DRILL The handbook INFA REGULATIONS, which can be purchased for 50 cents, should be obtained as a reference book, and should be followed closely. Its instructions will be understood more easily after drill movements have been demonstrated by the drill master.
must have fallen far short of standard standard specific specificatio ations, ns, because there were no dimensioneddrawings in the woodshed "arms plant" to work by; but, as the author recollects, the guns were fearsome looking weapons, with long tinfoil-covered stick bayonets, which, by the way, were "fixed" at all times which is strictly against regula43
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FIG. 4 4 3 . - SQUAD AT "PORT ARM S" (EQUIPPE (EQUIPPED D WITH HOM E- MA DE DRILL-GUNS AND WASH-BASIN HELMETS.)
tions, but unknown to the boys upon a piece of paper, and reat that tha t time. You can can make bet- produce the outline exactly as ter guns than these were, for it is shown upon the small this chapter presents all of the squares. Saw out the piece, working details necessary. round the edges, and sandpaper The-Simple The-Simple Model of Drill- the wood. This will provide Gun shown in Fig. 444 has a A Pattern for Marking Out stoc stock k cut in one piece. piece. A pattern p attern Duplicate Stocks. You will save sav e for this, ruled off into squares time by marking marking out at one time measuring 1/8 inch each way, as many many of the stocks stocks as you you will will each each square representing 1 inch inch,, require. is shown in Fig. 445 4 45.. To lay out The Barrel is made of a a full-size pattern, draw a simi- broom-handle (Fi (Fig. 447). 447) . Cut Cut a lar lar set of squares, 1 inch inch square, shallow groove along the top
FIG. 444 — A Simple Model of Drill-Gun 44
edge of the the stock for for the barrel to fit in, and fasten the barrel with screws and wire bands. For a Trigger, drive a bent nail (C, Fig. 448) into the stoc stock k at the point indicated in Fig. 446, and for A TriggerGuard fasten a plumber's pipestra strap p (D, Fi Fig. 448) 448) to the stock, covering the trigger. For the Front Sight, bend a piece F l G of tin into into the th e shape of E (Fig. 449), for The Rear Sight
FIG.
and bend down the tips of these. Tack the sights to the barrel in the positions shown in Fig. 444. The gun will now be ready for Finishing. Give the stock a coat of stain or paint of a walnut color. Stain is preferable to paint. When the stain has dried, apply a coat of shellac, then a coat of flat varnish. Paint the barrel black; also the trigger, triggerguard, and sights. The drill-gun shown in Fig. 452 is A Springfield 445. — Pattern of Stock of Drill-Gun Drill- Gun Rifle Model. Its stock Shown in Fig. 444 requires considerable more work work to cut than
447 44 7
FIG. 451 FIG. 450 FIG. 449 FIG. 448 446 FI G. 449. — Fron t Sight Sight FlG. 446. — Stock FI G. 450 and 451. — Rear Sight Sight FlG. 447. — Barrel Trigger and Trigger-Guard FIG. 448. • - Trigger
FIG.
(F, (F, Fig. 450) 4 50) cut a piece piece of tin of the stock of the simpler model, the shape shown in Fig. 451, but most boys prefer it for drillbend it in half, turn tu rn up the ends, ing because because its lines lines more nearly nearly
F I G . 452. — Sprin Springfi gfiel eld d Model of Drill-Gun 45
