Handicraft for Handy Boys

I J;

/

BOSTON PUBLIC UBRT^RY

.._7—

—1~^'

12

HANDICRAFT

FOR HANDY BOYS

BOOKS BY 8vo.

Cloth.

A.

NEELY HALL

Illustrated with hundreds of full-page

and working drawings by the author arid Norman P. Hall

THE BOY CRAFTSMAN

.

.

5 (

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

THE HANDY BOY

.

.

^"ce «^/^

1.60

Postpaid

1.82

^"""^ \

'f^^

^

^'^

i

Postpaid

2.25

^

Price «./^

i. 60

I

Postpaid

1.82

.

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD

CO.,

BOSTON

A Boy Craftsman

^Modern Electrics.

in His

Workshop.

Factory of the Juvenile Manufacturing Co., of Dayton, Ohio. Fitted up in a Play-House. {See

Page

103.)

HANDICRAFT

FOR HANDY BOYS Iractical Plans iorA^ferk and Play

withMany Idoas ior EarningMonGy i?j;

ANccly Hall

Author of'Hio Boy Craftsman, Eic. mill nearly sixliunArcJ Jluftratiom an J working-drawings Ly tKc auiliDr and NormanP Hall

BOSTON

LOTHROP. LEE grSHEPARD

QO.

Copyright,

1911,

by Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. Published, August, 1911.

All rights reserved.

Handicraft for Handy Boys.

TTI(pO

J. S.

Gushing Co.

— Berwick & Smith Co.

Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.

When you when you

play hard; and

play,

work, do not play at

— Theodore

all.

Roosevelt.

INTRODUCTORY NOTES This is

intended for the same class of

latest ideas for

and school

There are

new volume.

'*

maki7tg things, practical p kins for earning tnoney,

for games and

up-to-date suggestions

Jiome

The Boy Craftsman," and readers, — boys who want the

a companion volume to

is

all

sports,

and

novelties

for

e7itertai7iments.

of Handicraft for

sorts

Some

Handy Boys

of the ideas will appeal

more

in this

directly to

younger readers, while other ideas will be better suited to the older lads who have become more capable through experience with earlier ventures and advancement in school. At the time of the publication of "

The Boy Craftsman,"

the opinion that

well to provide a boy with a book which

it is

the author advanced

contains not only a goodly measure of the simple ing

little

work

requir-

or no experience in the handling of tools, but also the

proper instruction to help him grow more proficient, and such advanced work as he will then be prepared to undertake and the ;

success of this former volume has proven that such a book gets right next to a boy's heart, that

it

furnishes him with ideas for

many

years' work, and that it produces the best possible influence over him in encouraging him to be industrious. Every

young fellow loves to plan and dream about what he is ''going to do " some day, and in simply looking over the more advanced ideas in a book of this kind, he experiences, in his imaginative mind,

much

of

the pleasures that his older brother or friend

gets out of the actual

too

young

to

work

no school boy is enjoy such a book, and the act of placing a copy ;

for this reason,

INTRODUCTORY NOTES

vi

in his

hands

at

an early age

will

be the means of instiUing

him an ambition to make the best possible use of his time, before he has had a chance to acquire a tendency to be

in

an

idler.

As

"

in

The Boy Craftsman,"

the author has

planned

tJie

suggestions on an ecojiomical basis, providing for the use of old boards, the materials which a boy ordinarily has at hand,

—

grocery boxes, cigar boxes, barrels, tin cans, worn-out pans and spools, discarded clocks, broken tins, pails, broom-handles, chairs

and other

clothes-line,

furniture,

a few cents.

hats and clothing, stovepipe,

screen wire, and other things too numerous to

— besides

mention,

old

The

many

things which can be purchased for

greater part of the ideas require very

little

any outlay of money, and many suggestions for earning mo7tey have been included to make it possible for a boy to provide himself with all the tools which he requires or wishes to own, without having to call upon the home treasurer for the means These features were brought together for such purchases. for the first time in ''The Boy Craftsman," and have won the confidence of parents who realize that, in giving a book of this kind to their boys, they are providing something which will encourage self-reliance and resourcefulness rather than a dependence upon home for money for tools and working which is often the cause of endless worry where material

if

—

such cannot be furnished.

The work

is

as will interest the boy with unlimited funds

along such

lines

at his disposal, as

well as the boy in moderate circumstances, and, inasmuch as it

has been planned on a small cost basis,

of doing tion for

it

should be the means

him more good, and help him to form a firmer foundalater years, than something which might tend to culti-

vate a love for extravagance.

Much of the zuork is closely allied to the studies of the inodern grammar and high schools, as will be seen by glancing over the table of Contents, and

it is

hoped and believed that

•

INTRODUCTORY NOTES this outside instruction will

vii

be the means of helping boys

to

appreciate the value of close application to studies.

impossible to

It is

make

in the sense of covering

boys are interested

;

a book of this character complete,

every scope of work and play in which

for the field

is

practically inexhaustible,

Every new development in the scientific world is being investigated by an eager army of boys possessing an unquenchable thirst for something new, and generally some young mechanical genius discovers how and if to introduce the idea into the boys' realm of work costly apparatus was used in the original experiments, he " plugs away" until he finds out how this can be made, wholly or partly, with the materials boys are accustomed to work with, and

growing larger day by day.

is

;

—

the truck to be found about the house, in the shed, in alleys

and

in

junk shops, and inexpensive

stuff.

This sort of original

and no better way can be found than by providing them with a book of modern and ingenious work which will appeal to their mechanical investigation should be encouraged in boys,

natures.

Here

an example of the pace at which boys' achievements are following the developments of the day. Every up-to-date boy is now experimenting in electrical work and wireless telegraphy, work which has put into the background experimental chemistry not long ago one of the principal scientific pastimes, and one of the features of boys' handy books and he is producing original forms of model aeroplanes, while aeronautics now occupies more of his attention than kite-flying, a fact which no one, a few years ago, would have beUeved to be possible. With the shifting of boys' interests in work and play, it is only natural for the book which contains the greatest variety of modern ideas to win the greatest amount of popularity. Whether or not this book will meet the present demands of boys, the author is willing to let his readers decide. The manual training in the first portion of the book has been is

—

;

INTRODUCTORY NOTES

viii

provided for the benefit of the boys

who have not

the advan-

tages of such instruction at school, as well as to help those who have these advantages, in providing themselves with equipment for

home

The chapter on working-drawings has been

use.

enough of the principles of mechanical drawing to enable them to design and work out their own ideas accurately on paper, and the numerous plans for easily made furniture, for toys and gifts, and for such handy contrivances for the house as a fireless cooker will furnish them with a good supply of ideas to make selections from for shop work. The suggestions for fitting up a boy's room and for making box furniture and gymnasium apparatus will enable boys to provide themselves with rooms furnished to suit their inserted to instruct boys in

The chapter on a boy's wireless telegraph outfit practical ideas for home-made apparatus in its simplest

convenience. contains

forms, the chapter on model aeroplanes shows

model

flying machines,

practical

cable in

some

and

some

of the best

the " auto-airship " described is a

scheme for a boy's airship that runs along a rope which the safety of a toboggan slide is combined with

of the thriUing sensations of flying through the

To encourage work treated with as

much

m

the open, outdoor pastimes

air.

have been

care and consideration in the selection of

material as indoor work.

Designers of home-made furniture for amateurs generally omit dimensions on their working-drawings, probably figuring but that the work will thus appear less complicated to them ;

designers of furniture and machines would not think of omitting these from drawings that are to be turned over to skilled

workmen, so

boys to get along without them. The dimensions upon the furniture-drawings in Chapter VI may make them appear complicated, but after studying the instructions for making working-drawings, any boy will find

them

it is

foolish to expect

clear

sary information.

and

explicit

and

to contain only the neces-

INTRODUCTORY NOTES

ix

All of the material in this volume has been thoroughly tested,

and hundreds of thousands of boys have already had an opporsome of the ideas which have been included in the author's articles for boys published recently in TJie Ladies' tunity to carry out

Home Joarjial 3.r\d Good Housekeeping,

in his

"Boy Carpenter"

department of The Boys' Magazine, and in The American Boy. The author wishes to extend his thanks to the editors and pubHshers of the above publications, for their care in preserving and returning the original drawings for the illustrations to these articles that they might be used in this book. With a few exceptions, the photographs used were prepared by the author, either from the models he made or from the work constructed by his readers from his plans and instructions.

The author invites correspondence, and is always glad hear how his boys succeed with their work, and pleased receive photographs of their handicraft for his collection. A. N. H. Chicago, Illinois,

May

31,

19H.

to to

PART

I

A UTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT CHAPTER

I

PAGE

The Home Workshop Introduction — What

I

Do — Selecting a Boy should be able — Gas or Electric Light — Cabinet-made Benches — A Home-made Bench — A Solid Work Bench — The Bench-vise — An Iron Bench-screw — An Iron Vise — A Work Bench with Tool Drawers — A Tool Tray — Home-made Benchstops — An Adjustable Bench-stop. Suitable Place for a

a

to

Shop

CHAPTER

II

Tools and Home-made Shop Equipment Purchasing Tools A Handy Guide for Purchasing The Principal Tools Required A Small Outfit and how it may be added

— — — to — Jack-knife — Hatchet — Hammer — Tack Hammer — Crate Opener — Nail-set — Wooden Mallet — Cross-cut Saw — Rip-saw — Compass-saw — Keyhole-saw — Back-saw — Coping-saw — Bracketsaw — Scroll-saw — Jack-plane — Smoothing-plane — Fore-plane — Rabbet-plane — Dado-plane — Ratchet-brace — Auger-bits — Expansive-bit — Wood Bit — Brad-awls — Scratch-awl — Hand — Spiral-ratchet Gimlet — Rose Countersink Bit — Automatic Screw-driver — Hand Screw-driver — Screw-driver Bit — Firmer Chisels — Framing or Mortising Chisel — Gouge — Cold-chisel — Draw-knife — Spoke-shave — Half-round Wood-file — Handiest Forms of Files — Two-foot Folding Rule — Try-square — CarpenDrill

Drill

xi

H

— CONTENTS

xii

Steel Square — Bevel — Marking-gauge — Wing Dividers — Level — Pocket Level — Odd-jobs — Cutting Pliers — Wrench — Wood Handscrews — Cabinet-maker's Clamps — Home-made Clamps — Grindstone — Oilstone — Oiler — Grocery-box Tool-chest — Tool-cabinet — Tool-rack — Open Shelves — Material Boxes — Screws, Partitioned Nail Box — Another Box — Receptacles and Brads — Horse — Saw-bench — Chair Saw-bench — Miter-box — Bench-hook — Shooting-board.

PAGE

ter's

for Nails,

CHAPTER

III

Elementary Manual Training

42

Working Material — Structure of Wood — Cutting — Plain Sawing — Quarter Sawing — Knots — Cupup the Log shakes and Heart-shakes — Checks — Seasoning — Kiln Drying — Stock or Stuff — Undressed Stuff— Dressed Stuff— Matched Stuff — Matched-and-beaded Stuff — Boards — Planks or Dimension Stuff — Timber — Stock Sizes of Lumber — Purchasing Material — A Mill List — Estimating Cost of Material — Laying out Work — Gauging A Planing Exercise — Winding-sticks — A Sawing Exercise — Joints and Splices — Common-joint — Butt-joint — Common-splice — Fished-splice — Halved-joint — Halved-splice — Mortise-andtenon Joint — Pins — Wedging — Rabbet — Rabbet-joint — Grooves — Housed-joint — Tongue-and-groove Joint — Mitered-joint — Mitered-sphce — Dovetail-joint — Dovetail Half-lap Joint — Doweljoint — Battens — Cleats — Taper — Bevel — Chamfer — Gluing up Work — Screws — Nails — Carriage-bolts. Selection of

CHAPTER Wood

IV

Finishing

The

75

Finishes best adapted to

Boys'

Work — Paint — Mixing

— Painting — Staining — Water Stains — Oil Stains — Shellacking — Filling — Waxing — Varnishing — Rubbing — Polishing — Oiling — Sandpapering — Puttying — A Home-made Paints

—

Brushes

Putty-knife

— Caution about Oily Rags. CHAPTER V 86

Working-drawings

What have

a Working-drawing

Difficulty

in

is

Reading

Purpose — Why Some People and Working-drawings — Definitions of its

A

•

CONTENTS

xiii

PAGE

Detail Drawings, Specifications, Plans, Elevations, Cross-sections,

— Scales — A — — Drawing Outfit A Drawing-board A Drafting Table — A T-square — A 45 -degree Triangle — A 60-degree Triangle — Compasses — A Ruling-pen — A Set of Instruments — A 12-inch Ruler — A Scale — Drawing Pencils — Pens — Drawing Ink — An Ink Eraser and a Pencil Eraser — An Erasing Shield — A Home-made Pencil Box and Inkstand — Thumb-tacks — Drawing-paper — Blueprints — Tracing-cloth — Tracing-paper — A Home-made Printingframe — Preparing Working-drawings — Dimension-lines, Dot-anddash Lines, and Dotted Lines — Titles — Marginal Lines — Lettering. Longitudinal Sections, and a Perspective Drawing

CHAPTER Easily

VI

Made Furniture

103

— What Boys generally want — The Juvenile Manufacturing — — A Whisk-broom Holder — A Clock-shelf — A Necktie Rack — A Towel-rack — Book-racks — An Extension Book-rack — Popularity of Tabourets and Plant Stands — A List of Material showing Exact Finished Dimensions — A Tabouret — Leveling up Uneven Legs — Another Tabouret — A Plant Stand — A Footstool — Upholstering Material and how Upholster — A Bench — Two Magazine Racks — A Music-cabinet — An Umbrella-stand — A Roman Chair — A Mission Chair — wire up the Mission Writing-desk — An Electric Lamp — How Lamp with a Socket and Drop-cord — A Drafting Table — A Desk A Good

—

Test of a Boy's Skill

to

Plan for Earning Money Make Choice of Material Company

to

to

Table.

CHAPTER

VII

Handy Contrivances for the House

135

—

Things a Boy can make and Sell How to sell Home-made A Fireless Cooker The Fireless Cooker used by the United States Army A Pot-cover Rack A Bottle-rack How to cut Large Holes A Flat-iron Rest A Flat-iron Rack A Sleeve-board A Knife-box A Scrub-pail Platform A Towelroller An Ice-pick and Ice-chisel Rack How to finish HouseArticles

—

—

—

—

hold Conveniences.

—

—

—

— — —

—

—

—

CONTENTS

xiv

CHAPTER

VIII PAGE

A

Boy's

Room

in

an Attic

149

A Dividing Partition — A Plumb-line — A Plumb-board — Lockers — Wainscoting — A Large Clothes Closet — Trousers Hangers —

— The Entrance-door Transom — An Old-fashioned Cabin Latch — An Oil Heater or Stove — A Wash-stand — A Broomhandle Towel-rack — Lighting the Room — A Home-made Hanging Lamp — Furnishing the Room — Home-made Picture-frames — The Furniture — A Pirate Chest — A Window Seat — Suggestions for Doors

Boys who have no

Attic.

CHAPTER

IX

Box AND Barrel Furniture The Hand

160

Making Things out Writing-desk A Shelf for Books

Possibilities for

of the

Materials

at

— — An Office Chair — — A Waste-basket An Arm Rocker — A Barrel Table — A Chiffonier — How to Box Furniture. —A

finish

CHAPTER X Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus for a Boy's Room .170 A Chest-weight — A Striking-bag — A Striking-bag Platform — .

A

Chinning-bar

—A

Hitch-and-Kick

Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and

—A

Wand — A Rack

for

Wand.

CHAPTER

XI

Cigar-box Toys and Gifts

178

— Material — Finish — Cutting Articles to give away and to — An Express-wagon — A Cart — An Auto Delivery-wagon — A Jack-in-the-Box — A Round-seated Chair — A Round Centertable — A Dining-table — A Square-seated Chair — A Doll's Cradle — A Key-board — A Corner Clock-shelf — A Whisk-broom Holder — A Kitchen Match-box — A Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box — A Cottage Match-box — Suggestions Other Gifts. Sell

for

CHAPTER

XII

Clockwork Toys The Necessary

A

Merry-go-round

i8g

— How to prepare the Clockwork — — The Standard — The Tent — The Tent-poles Materials

CONTENTS

— The Riders

Horses

— The

— The

Sleighs

Platform

— The

— How

XV

Shafts

— The

to operate the

PAGE

Girl

and Boy

Merry-go-round

—

Other Animals the Merry-go-round — A Miniature Ferris Wheel — The Standard — The Station Platform — How make the Wheel — How to make the Cars — The Car Axles — How to mount the Wheel — Steps to the Platform — The "Flying Airships" — The Standard — The Mast — The Cars — How to increase the Speed of for

to

the Clockwork.

CHAPTER

XIII

Brass Craft

206

The Tools and Materials Required — Enlarging Designs by Squares — Piercing — Polishing the Brass — A Home-made Antique Green Lacquer — A Tea-pot Stand — A Calendar Board — A Pen Tray — A Lamp-shade — Chain Fringe — A Candle-shade — Shadeholders — A Candle-stick — A "Paul Revere" Lantern.

CHAPTER XIV A

Boy's Wireless

Telegraph Outfit

219

Marconi and his Experiments — What Some Boys have Accomplished — The Chicago Wireless Club — Code Cards, Call and Aerogram Blanks — Amateur Commercial Stations — Fundamental Principles of W^ireless Telegraphy — The Aerial — Masts for the Aerial — Insulating the Aerial — Grounding the Aerial — The Receiving Outfit — Telephone Receivers — Detectors — A Microphone Detector — A Razor-blade Microphone Detector — A Silicon Detector — A Tuning-coil — A Fixed Condenser — A Potentiometer — The Transmitting Outfit — An Induction-coil — A Spark-gap — A Storage Battery — Dry Batteries — A Wireless Key — A Knife Switch — A Good Arrangement the Instruments — Operation of Instruments — How to receive a Call — How to make a Call — Codes — A Good Way to learn a Code — Electrical Measurements — Connection of Dry Batteries. Lists,

for

CHAPTER XV Stunts for a Boys' Vaudeville Show

The Best Kind Strong

of Stunts for a Boys'

Man — Holding

out a Chair

256

Show

— Sam

upon which a Boy

is

Dow,

the

Seated

—

CONTENTS

xvi

.

.

—

PAGE

—

The Dumb-bell Lifting Feat Juggling with Heavy Balls BoneThe Professor head The Magical Mortar The Wonderful Hat Trick Other Mortar Stunts The Professor's Final Exhibi— tion The Dummy Assistant Falsetto, the Boy with a Wonderful Voice The Ventriloquist How to make the Ventriloquist's Doll Willie Shute, the Crack Shot of the World The Targets

—

—

—

—

—

—

His Blunderbuss

—

—

—

— — A Program Board — Admission Tickets.

—

CHAPTER XVI Moving Pictures

A

270

Simple Moving-picture Machine

Cylinder

— The

Clown and

—

Hound Pictures How The Revolving Wheels

— The

Ball Pictures

to operate this

Wooden Base — The

— The Circus Horse and Toy — The Automobile —

— The Boxing-match. CHAPTER XVH

A Snow Battleship A New Idea for a Snow Fight — The Central Station — The Hull — A Torpedo Tube — The Superstructure Deck — The Conning-

279

— The Forward Turret — The Midship — The Mast — The Fighting-tops — Rapid-fire Guns — The Crosstree — A Coach-whip Pennant — Paper Signal Flags — A Union Jack — A National Ensign — The Funnels — The Ventilators — The Mainbattery Guns — The Secondary-battery Guns — Arrangement of Ammunition Stores — Duties of the Captain — A Naval Battle-^ Rules the Battle — A Flag of Truce — The " Torpedo Boats " — tower

Turret-r

for

Repairing the Ships after a Battle

— Marksmanship.

CHAPTER A

XVIII

Coaster and a Bob-sled

A Coaster — How to lay out the Runners — Shoes for Runners — Connecting the Runners — The Seat — Sled Handles — The Foot-bar — Painting the Sled. A Bob-sled — The Four Runners — Connecting the Runners — The Sled Seats — The Plank Seat — How to hinge the Seat to the Stern Sled — Check-chains — The Steering Foot-bar — The Steering Lines — Handle-bars — A Seat Cushion — Painting the Bobsled.

287

CONTENTS

PART

xvii

II

SPRING AND SUMMER HANDICRAFT CHAPTER XIX PAGE

Model Aeroplanes

297

Spring Activities — " Aeroplane Time — Length of Model Aeroplane Flights — Junior Aero Clubs — Model Aeroplane Meets — Types of Machines Used — Support of Aeroplane — A Cardboard Bird Glider — A Simple Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Planes — A Glider Race — An Easily Made Propeller — Shaft and Shaft Bearing — Motive Power — Winding up the Motor — A French Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Propeller — Running-gear — Skids — Planes — Adjustment of Planes — An Antoinette Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Propeller — Wings — Tail — Fin — Rudder — Running-gear — A More Elaborate Monoplane Model — Center-pole — Material Binding — Running-gear — Propeller — Shaft and Bearing — Motor — Planes — Bracings — Rudder — Finish — Flights Monoplane capable of Making — Field ''

for

this

for

is

Experimenting.

CHAPTER XX A

Boy's Auto-airship

327

— The Framework of the Balloon — Barrel-hoop Ribs — Rib-bands — Stays — The Balloon Envelope — Construction of the Car — The Propeller — A Starting Platform — A Push-off Platform — The Rope Cable — Attachment of Car — Windlass pulling back the Airship to Starting Platform — An Auto-airship Club. A

Safe and Practical "Boy-carrying'' Airship

for

CHAPTER XXI Camping Equipment

"A"

— —

—

and Wall Tents How to make an "A" Tent The Ridge-pole and Uprights Tent Stakes Pitching a Tent A Tent Ground-cloth A Pine Twig Mattress A Sleeping-bag Other Equipment An Electric Flash Lamp Packing A Safety Match-box A Duffle Box Food Supplies If you are to Prices of

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

— —

—

337

CONTENTS

xviii

— Making an Open Fire — The Backwoodsman's Camp Fireplace — Pothooks — A Sheet-iron Camp Stove — A Dutch Oven — A Camp Fireless Cooker — To build a Fire — Camp Furniture — A Camp Chair — A Camp Table — A Good Table Bench — A Com-

PAGE

be Cook

fortable

Box Bench

— Box Cupboards. CHAPTER

A Home-made Punt

.

.

XXII 351

.

— Material — The Side Boards — The Stem- and Stern-pieces — The Bottom Boards — An Inner Keel Board — Seats — Rowlocks — Thole-pins — The Painter — Finishing. Dimensions

CHAPTER A Home-made

XXIII

Sharpie

Dimensions

— The

356 Side-pieces

— The

Stem-piece

— The

Stern-

— The Stretcher — To put the Pieces Together — The Bottom Boards — The Skeg — An Inner Keel Board — Seats — Finishing the Bow — The Painter — An Easily Made Rudder — The Rowlock Blocks — Rowlocks or Thole-pins — Finishing.

piece

CHAPTER XXIV

....

Pushmobiles and Other Home-made Wagons

364

— The Flushing Where get Wheels — What a Pushmobile Pushmobile Club — The Vanderbilt Cup Race — Description of a Pushmobile Race — Organizing Pushmobile Clubs — To construct a Pushmobile — The Iron Axles — The Wooden Axles — The Wagon-bed — The Steering-wheel — The Hood — The Radiatorfront — The Seat — HeadHghts — Side Lamps — A Clock-case Side Lamp — Painting — The License Number — A Racing Pushmobile. An Auto Wagon — The Steering-wheel — Another Steering-gear — The Seat — A Trip Gong. A Simple Push Wagon — The Wagon-bed — The Rear Wheels — The Axle for the Front Wheels. to

Is

CHAPTER XXV Bird-houses

—

Designing the Bird-house and choosing a Location for It Materials out of which to make Bird-houses A Box Bird-house

—

379

CONTENTS

xix

— Another Box Bird-house — A Bird Tower — A Tin-can Bird Tower — A Bird Castle — A Bird Ark — A Wall Bracket Bird Ark — A House and Swing — A Hanging House — A Shelter. CHAPTER XXVI Houses for Pets

389

—

^

—

A Dog-house A Rabbit-hutch Galvanized Poultry-netting, Twist Wire Cloth, and Wire Cloth for Fronts of Hutches and Casres A Breeding Hutch A Two-story Rabbit-hutch A Rabbit Yard A Cage for White Rats An Elevated "Race-track" Drinking Receptaclec Painting Floor Covering A Pigeon-

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

cote.

CHAPTER XXVn A

Castle Club-house and Home-made Armor

— The Framework — The Floor — Boarding up the Walls — To cut

Material

Turrets

Leaks — The

.... —

Joists

404

The Corner The

the Openings

Battlement — Secret

—

— the Roof Treasure — The Drawbridge — To counterbalance the Drawbridge — A Windlass — A Moat. Home-made Armor — A Helmet — A Shield — A Sword. Roof

If

Vaults

CHAPTER XXVni A

Band of Home-made Instruments The Neighborhood Parade — Materials out

Boys'

416 of which to

make

the

— A Cornet — A Trombone — A Bass Horn — A Fife — A Bass Drum — Cymbals — The Drum-stick — Snaredrums — The Drum Major — A Splendid "Bearskin" Cap — The Drum Major's Staff — The Major's Whistle — Uniforms — Organizing a Band — How the Band be useful the Home Circus, — Vaudeville, and Other Shows A Boy Scout Band. Imitation Instruments

will

Index

in

427

LIST OF

HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS

(In addition to

more than

five

hundred

PART A Boy

Craftsman

in his

text illustrations.)

I

Worksliop

Frontispiece

Factory of the Juvenile Manufacturing Co. FACING PAGE

A A

Basement Workshop Corner of the Author's

Home Workroom

— Whisk-Broom Holder Fig. 109. — Clock-Shelf Figs 10 and III. — Necktie-Racks — Book-Racks 2-1 Figs Figs 122 and 123. — Tabourets] Fig. 124 — Plant Stand Fig. 125 — Footstool Figs. 13 and 132. — Magazine-Racks Fig- 133 — Music-Cabinet Fig. 134 — Umbrella-Stand Fig. 139 — A Roman Chair Fig. 140. — A Mission Chair Fig. 141. — A Mission Writing-Desk Fig. 142. — An Electric Lamp Fig. 206. — Construct Your Chest-Weights First Fig. 210. — Where to Hang the Striking-Bag Fig. 215. — The Doorway Chinning-Bar Easily Put Up Fig. 223. — An Express- Wagon 224. — A Cart Figs. 225 and 226. — Two Views of an " Auto Dehvery-Wagon " Fig. 228 — A Jack-in-the-Box Fig. 229 — The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-Box Fig. 230 — A Round-Seated Chair

86

Fig. 108.

104

1

1 1

14.

[

.

no

J

124

128

170

is

Fiof.

Fig. 231 Fi<

232

Fig. 233 Fig. 234

—A

178

180

182-183

Round Center-Table

— A Dining-Table — A Square-Seated Chair — A Doll's Cradle

XXI

LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS

XXll

— A Key-Board Fig. 239 — A Corner Clock-Shelf Fig. 240 — A Whisk-Broom Holder Fig. 241 — A Kitchen Match-Box Fig. 242 — A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box Fig. 253 — A Merry-Go-Round Fig. 254 — A Clockwork Motor Fig. 255 — A Ferris Wheel Fig. 256 — A Flying Airship Furnish the Only Means 360 — The " Torpedo-boats

FACING PAGE

Fig. 238

184

,

"

Fisf.

at

190

of Attack

Close Range

280

PART

II

Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School A Model Aeroplane Meet of the Calumet Aero Club Some Good Forms of Model Aeroplanes Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly Flapjacks for

Some

297 302

340

Two

of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races

Winning Car in the Vanderbilt Cup Race At the Start Off. A Flushing Pushmobile Club Race Fig. 483. A Bird Tower Fig. 484

Fig. 485 Fig. 486

Fig. 506

Fig. 515 Fig. 530 Fig. 531

Fig. 532

364

366 J

— — A Bird Castle — A Bird Ark — A House and Swing — The Castle Club-House — A Boy Knight with His Home-Made Armor — The Cornet — The Trombone — The Bass Horn

....

382

404 412 416

PARTI

Autumn an(l^\^ntcr Handicraft

With the

new

autumn and

the coming of

school year, the

have enjoyed

all

summer

the beginning of

majority of you the

freedom

of

boys

outdoor

who life

probably pick up your books with a feeling of regret

must knuckle down again to studies. But as soon as you meet all the boys and get to talking over last year's good times, your old school enthusiasm returns then when some one proposes something that you

;

interesting to do,

you

once

at

fall

into line with

the

other fellows in offering suggestions, and the chances are that before the day

that school of a

life

is

is

pretty

day or so football

is

over you are ready to admit

good

after

all.

In the course

under way, and possibly plans

have developed for an athletic club and literary society,

schemes have been undertaken by groups of boys who have found that they can work together congenially, and very likely each boy has while

all

sorts

of

work to do. These outside interests help probably more than anything else to keep school from becoming monotonous.

mapped out

a lot

of

individual

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

2

To

be able to

your own room, construct apparatus for a

for

and

prepare

various

the

neighborhood

"

shows

just a

little

made; will

to

;

properties

be able to

to

make

be presentable as

pieces of

Christmas

your friends and relatives

in

;

you boys should

of

is

but before you can expect to do

to use

will

be necessary for you to

all

strive

be handy

know This

to

attain;

these things

of

not only

carpenters' tools properly, but also

about the v/ork in the right way.

gifts

an accomplishment

which every one

general

handicraft which

short, to

in

it

or

build wagons,

and birthday

about doing things

well

for school

"

than those the other fellows have

better

to be able

"

"

"gym"

model aeroplanes, and other things

boats, sleds, kites,

to

up a club-room or make furniture

fix

is

how

to

how go

the author s

book of handicraft for you with instructions upon manual training. Unless you have a workshop, or at least a space large enough in which to set up a work bench, you will be handicapped for any kind of home carpentry, for to get good results it is necessary to have something strong and solid to work upon and a vise which reason for beginning this

v^^ill

attic,

hold your pieces of work a spare room, the

wood

firmly.

The basement,

shed, and the barn sug-

gest possibilities for fitting up a good workshop, but in Selecting a Suitable Place there are several important

things to consider. it

The shop should have good

light,

should be dry, to prevent your stock from getting wet

THE HOME WORKSHOP and your

from rusting, and

tools

it

-

3

should be located

conveniently, so that material can easily be carried in

enough away from the living-room and bedrooms so that your hammering will not disturb any one. Of course, some of you will have no choice in the matter and will have to take any place you can and

and

out,

get,

but in this case

far

for the time being

turn up later on.

ment or

attic,

it

make

the best of

the conditions

and perhaps something better will If you locate your shop in the basebe a good idea to partition

will

off

a space as large as you will need and provide a door

with a padlock which can be locked

from being

tampered with

building of a partition illustrated

Gas off, it

or

will also

2),

over

175.

within

nearest

the

electric fixture (see

to

If

there

isn't

the space

any

partitioned

be a good plan to run a piece of rub-

ber tubing from

from an

Light

The

by younger hands.

described on page 149 and

is

by Figs. 172 to Electric

keep things

to

when

or

a

drop-cord

photograph opposite page

a point near the

so you can have light

gas-jet,

left

end

of

your bench,

the days are dark or when-

ever you wish to work in the evening.

can be bought

Cabinet-made Benches large stores

where

tools

$50, but one of these will

at

any

of the

from $7.50 to serve your purposes no better are

sold,

for

than the old-fashioned

Home-made Bench ter shop.

One

to be

of these

found

in almost every carpen-

can be made by any boy, out

of

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

4

The well-made

whitewood.

or

cypress,

pine,

benches have maple tops, but

it is

cabinet

not necessary to go to

the expense of buying maple for your bench, as softer

Dressed

material will do just as well. or 2-inch stock for the rails

;

may

ij-inch,

i-inch,

be used for the top, 2-by-4-inch stuff

framework, and i-inch boards for the aprons and

4-by-4-inch stock

" 2-by-4's "

is

often used for bench legs, but

enough and generally

are plenty heavy

easier

to get.

shows

Figure

i

A

Work

feet

Solid

Bench,

2 feet

8 inches high, with a top 5

This

long and 24 inches wide.

make your bench would

like to

if

have

is

you are crowded it

longer,

it is

a

good

for room.

size to

you

If

a simple matter to add

whatever you wish to the lengths given for the different pieces,

you,

and

it is

the vise. ferent

if

you

find that

it

is

going

to

be too high for

making

easy enough to saw off the legs before

Figure

members

2

shows the framework with the

lettered.

Cut the four legs

A

dif-

feet

2

8 inches long, less the thickness of the crosspieces (if inches) and the top, the 2-by-4-inch crosspieces 22-inches

long, the

end

rails

C

B B

22 inches long by

inches wide, and the front and back

rails

D4

feet

3^ long

by 3f inches wide. Spike crosspieces B to the tops of the legs, and rails C to the sides 8 inches from the lower ends

;

then stand the frames thus formed on end

and connect them by means and a rear apron {E, Fig. 2) 5

of rails

D,

Cut a

feet long, out of

front

lo-inch

Fig.

I.

— a Solid Work Bench

Fig.

2.

— Detail of Framework. 5

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS saw

boards,

off the

ends on the diagonal as shown, and

then either nail or screw them to the bench legs, placing them with their top edges even with the top of crosspieces

B

and with

their

ends projecting the same

The

tance beyond the ends of the bench framework.

bench top may be made

of three pieces 8 inches wide, or

Cblock out-

SOCKET_

of

'^

back of leg

screwis not threaded N AS FAR BACK \ AS SHOWN

any combinawidths

tion

of

that

will

up a

total of

if

JN

I

dis-

FIG. 4.

inches,

make 24

and these

pieces should be

fastened to cross-

B

iffi-'

pieces

with

screws. Counter-

sink Fig. Figs. 3-5.

Fig.

4.

— Details of the Bench-vise.

bench by

fitting pieces

aprons, as

shown

Figures

3.

3, 4,

in Fig.

and

5

heads.

screw-

Finish

the ends of the

lo-inch board between the

i.

show

Cut

The Bench-vise.

of

the

the details for

\}c\Q,jaw

making

about 31 inches long out

of a piece of i^-inch or 2-inch stuff 6 inches wide,

and

the sliding strip 3 inches wide and 14 inches long out of a

I

-inch board,

and bore ten

sliding strip about

shown. strip to

-l-inch holes

through the

J inch on centers and staggered

as

There are several ways of fastening the sliding the jaw, two of which are shown in Figs. 3 and 4.

THE HOME WORKSHOP By 3,

7

nailing the jaw to the end of the strip, as in Fig. is

it

necessary to mortise the bench leg for

slide through, while

the jaw, as in Fig. of the leg.

If

4,

if

you

it

to

set the strip into the side of

a pocket

must be

you mortise the

leg,

built

on

make

to the side

the mortise

about ^ inch larger all around than the strip, so there will be plenty of clearance, and locate the bottom of it 3 or 4 inches above the floor. strip to the jaw, slip the

After fastening the sliding

end through the mortise

— or

through the pocket, push the jaw up against the apron of the bench,

hold

it

An 4),

and drive a couple

circle

through

it

to

temporarily in place.

Iron Bench-screw, socket

If

and wooden handle

(Fig.

almost any hardware store for 50 this screw is ij inches in diameter, describe a

can be bought

cents.

of nails

at

i^ inches in diameter on the face of the jaw, 8

inches below the bench top, and then bore a hole of the

same diameter through the jaw, the apron, and the benchleg (see " Cutting Large Holes," page 142). With a chisel enlarge the hole on the inside face of the leg (you had better turn the

bench over upon

its

side to

do

this) so

the iron socket will set into the leg flush with the surface

;

then, after screwing the socket to the leg, trim the

hole in the jaw so the collar on the handle end of the

screw place.

will set flat against the jaw,

Some

of the

heavier stuff than

and screw the plate

in

bench-screws are made to go through

we have used

for the legs,

and

their

threads stop within 3 or 4 inches of the collar plate

;

in

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

8

becomes necessary to set the socket into an extra block of wood (Fig. 5) and to spike this block to the back of the leg; otherwise, the jaw would not close entirely. Trim off the top of the jaw even with the bench top and this case

it

bevel the outer edge (Figs,

and

i

4),

then remove the

Cut a peg to fit in the holes in the sliding strip, and whenever you use the vise, stick this peg into the proper hole to keep the bottom of the jaw from pushing in farther than the upper portion the jaw must temporary

nails.

;

be kept vertical in order to

make

grip a piece of

it

wood

squarely.

Bore several rows of J-inch holes through the front apron, as

shown

in Fig.

i,

and cut a peg

to

fit

in

This peg may be adjusted to support the end

them. of

any

length of board placed in the vise.

Never clamp screws,

nails,

or other pieces of metal in

your vise without placing them

wood, as they

will cut

first

up the face

between blocks of jaw and bench

of the

apron and soon make the vise unfit to hold your nice work.

An

It is

a

good plan

Iron Vise for metal

to

have

work

;

one

of these

chased for from 50 cents to $1 and

may

the right end of your bench (Figs,

and

i

can be pur-

be screwed to 6).

Figure 6 shows

A Work simple to

Bench with Tool Drawers, which

make

on the upper

and

rails of

slide into the

almost as

The drawers

as the one just described.

are grocery boxes

is

ends of the bench

the framework (Fig.

7).

The bench

Fig. 6.

— A Work Bench with Tool Drawers.

Fig.

7.

— Detail of Framework.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

lO

illustrated

is

6 feet long, 24 inches wide, and

inches high, but as mentioned before you these dimensions to suit your conditions, and to

make

feet 8

2

may change if

you prefer

a cabinet for your tools instead of keeping

in the bench, the

may be

drawers

them

used to hold supplies.

Figure 7 shows the framework of the bench. Make the end frames as described for the other bench, fasten

them 4 feet 2 inches apart with the front and back rails D, and then cut the upper rails which form the drawer slides and nail them to the legs 8 inches below If you cannot find boxes of the proper crosspieces B,

E

size for

The Tool Drawers, larger boxes may be cut down, or you can build up drawers to

removable

fit.

Provide the drawers with

trays,

such as are described for

the tool-chest

shown

Nail two guide

bottom

of the

Fig.

8.

— Box

Tool Drawer,

nail

(^, Fig.

strips

{G,

Fig. 8)

wooden handle

two striking blocks 7)

to

page

31.

to the

drawers and fasten an iron

drawer-pull or a

Then

Fig. 43,

in

to the front. to the

back

prevent the drawers from

pulling out of the bcnch, and two cross-

pieces {F) in the proper places to stop the drawers

when

they have been pushed in flush with the ends of the bench.

A

Figure 6 shows

Tool Tray recessed in the bench top

ment, as

it

— a good arrange-

provides a place to lay tools while working.

This top may be made by placing a 12-inch plank along

THE HOME WORKSHOP

II

the front of the top, an 8-inch board back of

piece of 2-by-4 back of that again

(Fig.

9),

it,

and a

and then

blocking out the ends of the

board flush with the top

To finish off

the planking.

the ends of the bench, strips

of

fit

in

around the drawers.

Fig.

9.

— Plan

Before adjustable bench-

Bench Top with Tool Tray. for a

upon the market, a carpenter had to devise various makeshifts for shoving work against for planing and for other operations, and as many of these are still in

stops were put

use,

I

am going

to show^

you a few

of the

good forms

of

Home-made Bench-stops, so in case it is not convenient to buy an iron stop, you can equip your bench with one Fig.

Fig. 12.

II

Fig

~"~—

Fig. 14.

^^

/

^->

13.

Fig.

Figs. 10-14.

of these. strip

of

The

stop

— Home-made Bench-stops.

shown

wood, which

10.

is

in Fig. 10 consists of a short

screwed in place to the bench

12

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

top, arid the

screw-heads are cotmtersunk as a protection

for

your edge

removed when you wish

easily

Figure

clear.

This

it.

By screwing

tools.

will

Screw stops

the strip in place,

it is

have the bench top

to

shows a block with a " V " notch cut in hold the ends of narrow pieces of work. 1 1

(Fig.

12) are a favorite form, as they are

by giving them a few

easily adjusted to a required height

turns with a screw-driver.

The peg

stops

shown

in Fig.

13 have a big advantage in the fact that they are quickly

removed.

Bore twof-inch holes through the bench, cut

the pegs to

fit

them so they may be adjusted to different pieces of work, and drive

loosely in

the proper heights for in a

hammer

pegs

to hold

14

is

wedge, or a

them

wooden wedge,

in position.

similar to that

shown

in

The

at the side of the

stop

shown

in Fig.

Fig. 10, except that

it

is

held in place with bolts instead of screws.

Get two f-inch carriage-bolts about 4 inches long, and cut several strips of

wood about 8 inches long and

of different

Bore two |-inch

thicknesses.

holes, 5

inches apart, through the bench top and Fig. 15.

— An

Ad-

justable Bench-stop.

heads.

,i

i

Strips for the bolts to ,

,

•

i

r

j_i

drop i

ij.

through, and countersmk tor the bolt-

This stop

changed 15

through the

to suit

is

may

be inter-

of different thicknesses.

Figure

handy, as the strips

work

shows

An Adjustable Bench-stop which pin

in the center of this stop is

50 cents. The released by giving the

retails for

THE HOME WORKSHOP screw marked

may

A

13

a few turns with a screw-driver, and

be set to the proper height for your work and

dropped flush with the plate when not

in use.

Mortise

the bench top for the stop, and set the plate flush with the top.

The

other shop equipment

ing chapter.

is

described in the follow-

Better

may be

results

obtained with a few tools of

the best quality than with an entire outfit of cheaper

grade.

Remember

that, boys,

when

Purchasing Tools, and be sure that you get those

made

by reliable manufacturers instead of the toy variety, for

though they

will

wearing qualities run.

You

will

will find

able form of

work

considerably more, their better

cost

make them cheaper

in the long

new-fangled tools for every conceiv-

modern carpenter

in the

not imagine for a minute that

it

is

shop, but

do

necessary to have

these in order to perform the operations for which they are especially

made.

A

good mechanic can complete

almost any kind of a job with a handful of special tools

do the work so very much quicker that they

are adopted as time-saving devices,

many

but

tools,

and usually are worth

times their cost in a large shop.

Unless you have received instruction in manual ing, the variety of styles

made may make

and

sizes in

which

train-

tools are

the selection of an outfit difiicult

to provide 14

;

so

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

A Handy and

15

Guide for Purchasing, the more desirable forms

which an amateur

sizes of all the tools

is

ever likely

have been described and illustrated upon the

to require

following pages.

A

hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife, screw-driver and square are mentioned

hatchet,

and brace, "

The Boy Craftsman

"

Fissure 16

can.

A

start,

shows

in

as

The Principal Tools which a boy requires. not afford more at the

bit

If

you can-

add to them as soon as you

illustrations of

Small Outfit which a boy will find

kind of ordinary carpentry.

Every

suflficient for

any

tool in this outfit is

an important tool and one which you will find necessary

As your money

for general use. to

add

permits, you will wish

to these tools several sizes of chisels

and

bits,

one

or two saws, and such other tools as are used in advanced

work, and in this

way you can

increase your outfit, until

before long you will have a fairly complete set of tools of

which you may be proud. First of

all,

Jack-knife.

you

will

By

this

need a good is

not meant a four-blade pocket-

knife with a polished pearl handle, but just a knife, strongly

made, and having blades

tempered so they

will

hold an edge.

common

of steel properly

A

two-blade knife

with wooden handle similar to that shown in Fig. 16 a desirable

form

for all-round work,

medium-priced knife with blades steel.

and

of a

is

made

is

in a

good quality

of

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i6

For general use

A

Hatchet with a claw (Fig. i6)

one without, as

it

may be used

Fig.

1

6.

for

— A Small Tool

is

to be preferred to

withdrawing

nails as

Outfit.

The most important tools, showing desirable forms and sizes. Additional tools may be selected from those shown and described upon the following pages, as your money permits and your work requires their use.

well as driving them. of

medium weight and

In buying a hatchet, select one see that

it

balances nicely

when

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT you swing to

for,

it,

handle and

This

lessly.

A

unevenly balanced,

if

it

is

a point also to be looked out for in

Hammer.

— and

—

An

it

to loosen

it

does not

possible get one with the head

if

fastened on with patent-lock wedges which possible for

buying

Get a medium-sized claw hammer, either

with a bell face (Fig. 16) or a plain face,

matter which,

cumbersome

out the hand and arm muscles need-

tires

is

17

and

make

im-

it

fly off.

ordinary

Tack Hammer

ha-ndy for working in small corners,

is

A

but can easily be dispensed with for ordinary work.

much more

hammer

useful

shown

is

the

for prying boxes apart, but also for

handy not only driving and withdraw-

may

be used for numerous

Crate Opener

in Fig. 17,

ing tacks and small nails. small

jobs,

'

and

its

venient size makes sible to carry

it

it

It

con- ^^ ^_^ pos-

about

Nail-set

is

Fig.

^

-

FigTisT

required .

-

low the surface before finishing is

Fig.

of

it.

work

A

16.

You

will

cut iron nail

find

it

-Crate Opener.

— W^ooden Mallet.

may

be used, but

regular nail-set

handy

for finishing-nails^ the other for It is

17.

Fig. 18.

,

not as satisfactory as the

Fig.

17.

'

for drivincr nail-heads be.

is

in

one's hip pocket.

A

which

to

have two

common

shown sizes,

it

in

one

nails.

advisable to have

A Wooden

Mallet (Fig.

18) for

mortising and cutting

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i8

where

it is

use of a

This

is

necessary to drive the chisel or gouge, as the

hammer soon also useful for

and other

The Cross-cut Saw (Fig. teeth

^

the end of the handle.

knocking together the members

halved^ mortise-aiid'tenon^

grain of wood.

down

splits

It will

joints.

made

i6) is

to cut across the

also cut with the grain, but as the

work

are not properly prepared for ripping, the

When money

slower to do.

of

permits,

is

you should add a

22-inch

Rip-saw to your

outfit.

Compass-saw (Fig.

i6)

The is made

i

especially for cutting

curves, the teeth being filed to cut with as well as across

the grain, and finer

it

handy

is

saw which you may prefer

Keyhole-saw,

made

would imply, and used is

often

made

to

fit

fits

in

2l

to the

name

for various other small jobs.

This

handle similar to that

of the

in a

common form

pad, as shown in Fig.

saws which you

want

will

compass-saw is the

for cutting keyholes as the

compass-saw, but the more

which

A

sawing thin wood.

for

to

add

19.

the one

Other forms

your

to

is

outfit as

of

soon

as possible are the

Back-saw, shown in Fig. 59, a saw made with fine teeth (get one with fourteen teeth to the inch) and intended for very fine cutting

cutting tenons,

etc.,

— such

as for

making

miter-joints,

and either a

Coping-saw or Bracket-saw (Figs. 20 and 21) for saw^

See notes regarding the teeth of the Cross-cut

page 21 of " The Boy Craftsman."

Saw

and the Rip-saw on

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT ing very thin wood, such as that of cigar boxes.

own

you

answer the purposes

will

it

of both of the

shop use.

latter for

iron

If

a

Scroll-saw,

A

19

Jack-plane (Fig. 16) fitted with a s7noo thing-plane is

to be preferred to a smoothing-plane,

must be chosen, for (bottom face) makes

long

its

if

one plane

sole

easier to

it

plane up a surface without hollowing

it.

This plane, thus equipped,

may be used thicknesses of

moving

both reducing

for

and

material

re-

tindressed surfaces

purpose

the

of

(the

jack-plane),

up surfaces

well as planing

dJL

as

true Fig

and smooth

(the

purpose

its

out the

19.

jack-

Fig. 20.

cutting edge

Fig. 21.

slightly rounded, instead of like the

the Fig.

The

smoothing-plane). plane iron has

of

smoothing-plane

a surface.

it

— Keyhole-saw. — Coping-saw. — Bracket-saw.

being ground straight across

iron, in

order to

wood and thus reduce thicknesses

will readily see that

19.

make

it

gouge

quickly, so you

cannot be expected to straighten up

Of course you can buy the two

irons

and make

the plane the equivalent of a jack- and a smoothing-plane.

The Stanley "Bailey" the illustration

is

adjustable iron plane

in

a better form to purchase than the old-

fashioned plane with a wooden stock, as adjusted.

shown

The No.

5

size (Fig.

16) is

it

is

so easily

14 inches long

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

20

As soon

and about the right length.

as

you can do

so,

buy a Smoothing-plane In addition to the jack-plane, for the

two planes

save you a considerable

will

for the

the

has an

purpose

jack-plane

1

8-inch

sole,

and

made long

is

removing the high places

of

and

straightening

the

left

many

may

it

Among

by the amateur.

by

before

surface

smoothing up with the smoothing-plane, but easily be dispensed with

of ad-

The

justment of the cutting irons. Fore-plane

amount

the

other forms of planes upon the market, you will

find a

making

Rabbet-plane (Fig. 22), useful in cabinet

for

—

rabbeting your work (Fig. 75, page 59 the plane-iron, or cutter, can be adjusted to any desired width of rabbet up inches), Fig. 22.

— Rabbet-plaac.

to

\\

and the

Dado-plane

made

for

59).

As

(Fig.

which

23),

grooving (Fig. the

75,

plane-stock

is

page the

of

dado-plane must be of the same size as the cutter, Fig. 23.

— Dado-plane.

which you

will

likely wish to

course,

if

you

it is

necessary to select

one having the width

have the greatest need,

you

will

purchase more than one dado-plane. live

near a

mill,

you can get

rabbeting and grooving done there, and

you

for

of cutter for

to bother with

it,

it

will

or to purchase these

all

of

not

Of your

hardly pay

tools.

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT It is

good plan

a

Ratchet-brace in so

many

to invest in a

when buying

a bit-stock, as

when boring

makes

it

The

possible to so set the brace

a hole or driving a screw in a corner

or close to something which prevents a

handle

can be used

it

places where an ordinary brace cannot.

ratchet arrangement that,

21

may be worked back and

full

forth.

sweep, the

Buy

a brace

with at least an 8-inch sweep; a shorter

sweep than

this

does not give sufficient

8

fl

leverage.

A

f-inch and a f-inch auger-bit are in-

cluded

among

the tools

shown

in Fig. 16. d

Of

course,

it

is

often necessary to bore

Fig. 25.

holes of other sizes, and

I

as

Auger-bits J inch, -| inch, f inch, and inch in size should be added to these

you

need

find

of

them.

and the number

of six-

stamped upon the shank.

Fig-

in Y^g-inch sizes,

Fig.

made

Bits are

24.

Fig. 24.

— Expan-

sive-bit.

teenths

is

Fig.

ure 24 shows an Expansive-bit, the small size of which

two cutters

— one adjustable

25.

— Wood

Drill Bit.

is

to bore holes

provided with

ranging from

^ inch to I" inch and the other from |- inch to ij inches; and the large size with two cutters one boring holes

—

from

-|-

inches. is

inch to if inches, the other from

By

inches to 3 having one of the large sizes of these bits it i|-

not necessary to buy auger-bits larger than | inch.

This tool

is

very convenient for boring large hol^s, but

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

22

Is

not required, as holes larger than

may

i

inch In diameter

be cut as described on page 142 and Illustrated in

Figure 25 shows a

Fig. 156.

Wood Drill Bit. This Is made In -^^'i^^^ sizes, running from -^ Inch (No. 2) to || inch (No. 14). Unless you have an automatic

a few of these will be required

drill

hard wood.

for drilling holes for screws in

They

are

very delicate tools and "twist off " very easily, and must not be removed from a hole by reversing the brace, but

by continuing on the head loosened

to turn

It

same direction, pulling up the same time until It has

In the

of the brace at

Itself.

Brad-awls are the simplest and cheapest tools manu-

(Fig. 16).

making very small holes They are sold in various

which

be useful.

factured for

will

for nails sizes,

and screws

one or two

of

A

Scratch-awl differs from a brad-awl in the end, which is

pointed instead of chisel-shaped.

It is

used for mark-

ing work, but a jack-knife will serve the purpose just as well.

A

Hand Gimlet

(Fig. 16)

is

also

handy

for boring small

holes.

For countersinking screw-heads below the surface piece of

wood you should have

Rose Countersink Bit to

This

is

fit

of a

a in

your brace (Fig.

16).

used after a screw hole has been bored, and

bevels off the edge of the hole

head drop below the

surface.

enough

to let the screw-

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

An Automatic screws and

It is

in

With

size

come

used largely for drilling holes for

and

finishing-nails,

from

especially

is

handy

for

where even a ratchet-brace cannot be

drilling in places

used.

convenience and time

Drill is a great

saver (Fig. 26).

23

this tool

furnished eight

is

drills,

varying

inch to -^ inch, which

-^^

either in the handle or in an extra

A

box.

handier tool than

this,

costing about twice as much,

may

This

a

is

Screw-driver

Spiral-ratchet

(Fig.

27).

be set to drive or withdraw by

moving a small

s/ide to

one end or the

other of a slot on the side, or

may be locked driver

though

make

to

spiral

a ratchet screw-

by giving the milled

the slide a half turn.

tlie

shell just

below

Three screw-drivers

different sizes are included with this

of

tool,

and a chuck to hold

with eight sizes of

drills,

drills,

may

be purchased

small additional amount, which

for a

serve the double purpose of

drill

the spiral-ratchet screw-driver

with

together

if

makes

this

and screw-driver.

may

tool

But

easily be dispensed

you have an ordinary 6-inch

Hand Screw-driver and a medium-sized Screw-driver Bit (Fig. 16).

A 16.

|-inch chisel

This

is

size will

included in the outfit

be found best for a

soon require a smaller chisel

— one

shown

starter.

in Fig.

You

will

about \ inch wide,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

24

and when you have advanced with your work you

will

find that at least five

—

Firmer Chisels, the kind made for ordinary light work,

—

will ^ inch, | inch, J inch, ^ inch, and i inch, For any very heavy work, such as outside be necessary.

sizes

building,

you

Framing

will also require a

or Mortising Chisel,

purpose

for this

— i^ inches

which

or

i|-

is

made stronger

Some

inches wide.

upon the face edges of the blade to make them handy for getting into corners (Fig. 28). For cutting curved grooves and curved

firmer chisels are beveled

surfaces a

A

Gouge

is

required.

lar to a chisel is

This

except that

is

simi-

blade

its

curved instead of straight (Fig.

29). will

A

|-inch and a f-inch

answer most purposes.

gouge Chisel

and gouge handles are rounded on Fig. 28.

Fig. 29.

Fig. 30.

Beveled

Gouge.

Cold-

the ends for hand use (Fig. 29), but

chisel.

for heavier work,

Chisel,

where a mallet

is

necessary, they should be protected by a leather cap (Fig. 16) or a metal ferrule (Fig. 28), to

from

splitting.

handle (Fig. 29) but those

The is

gouge which fits into the strong enough for hand use (yparing)^

made with

chisel or

sockets for the handles to

(Fig. 28) are better for mortising

driving

is

keep the wood

necessary.

A

fit

into

and other work where

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT Cold-chisel (Fig. 30)

good you can do so. and

A

a

is

surfaces. fully,

It

wood

of

in

is

as

is

paring with a it

your

outfit

for quickly

and

when

reducing a

for cutting curved

care-

wood

more than danger

the

is

Fig. 32.

A

hatchet.

Spoke-shave (Fig. 32) surface after

to

will follow

it

apt to split off

desired,

add

handy

is

must be used

however, as

to

in thickness

the grain of a piece of

is

you

Draw-knife (Fig. 31)

narrow piece

and

often needed for cutting metal

is

tool for

25

— Spoke-shave.

used to smooth up a curved

has been roughly cut with a draw-knife, hatchet, or chisel, just as the smooth-

n n n

ing-plane

is

used

smooth up

This

straight surface.

pensive tool and to

to

will

may

Half-round

not an ex-

be of more use

you than a draw-knife

A

is

a

buy

;

Wood-file

it first.

(Fig.

be used for smoothing up

sorts of irregular surfaces

and

is

16) all

the

best kind to purchase for a small outFig. 33.

— Five Handy

Forms of in Fig.

'^i

fit

of tools.

The

Handiest Forms of Files are shown

Files.

The wood-rasp

is

a very coarse

file

for

wood

working, while the rattailfile, the slim taper file, and the flat metalfile are for metal work.

made with

A

finer teeth

wood-file

and are intended

must not be used upon

/ HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

26

metal,

as

it

not

is

made

for cutting

surfaces

harder

than wood.

For laying out work a Two-foot Folding Rule (Fig. i6)

a try-square or a carpenter s square

and either

required,

is

is

necessary for lay-

ing out lines at right angles to another line or to the

edge

of

a piece

of

work, for testing corners to

see

whether or not they are square, and for testing surfaces for irregularities.

The

writer prefers a

Try-square with a mitered handle (Fig.

45 degrees

may

be laid out with

it.

The

i6), as lines at

large size of

Carpenter's Steel Square has a body (the long end) 24

inches long and a tongue (the short end) 18 inches long;

but a smaller size with a body 18 inches long and tongue

1

long (Fig. 16)

your pur-

will serve

pose just as well and to ;

buy and

a—

lighter to handle.

grees, for laying out bevels,

and

for re-

producing angles upon several pieces Bevel.

of work.

It is like

instead of being fastened rigid

it

is

a try-square, only

made

adjustable.

can easily do without this tool for ordinary work, but

will

A

be cheaper

Bevel (Fig. 34) is a handy tool for laying out angles other than 45 de-

Pig. 34.

it

inches

A

o','-

You

will

2

be useful when you get into advanced work.

Marking-gauge (Fig. 16) consists of a block of wood (the head) through which slides a graduated stick (the

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

27

bar) with a point (the spur) near one end (see Fig. 68,

page

The head may

52).

be set to any desired distance

from the spur, then by placing the head against the edge of a piece of work and pushing the spur along the surface,

a

line

and

parallel to

The

can be scratched which

will

at the required distance

be exactly

from the edge.

marking-gauge has only one spur; that Fig. 68 has two spurs, is what is known as a

ordinary

shown

in

mortise-gauge (see "Gauging," page 52), and

is

the better form to buy.

Wing number

Dividers (Fig. 35)

of operations, but are

The

in

thu7nb-screws

handy

for a

used principally

and laying

for describing circles

ments.

come

make

off it

measure-

possible to

adjust the dividers very accurately to any desired

measurement.

of these

through

you may use a it,

stick with a couple of nails driven

or a piece of cardboard with a pencil and pin

pushed through

may

Until you can get a pair

wing Dividers,

it,

for

a compass, and

measurements

be laid off by means of a rule, a straight-edge (a

stick with a straight edge), or a piece of paper.^ /

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

28

but

level,

useless

is

It

up whatever your piece But a testing.^ is

^^^a^

^ Fig.

37.

of

rests

upon

before

is

'^'])

tions can be performed

Odd-jobs

— Pocket

shown

in

three operations

the

Level.

work

level

handy for getting approxicheap enough so every boy can own one. A tool with which ten different opera-

Pocket Level (Fig.

mate levels and

the shop unless you

in

illustration,

employed

it

may

is

the

Besides

Fig. 38.

indicated

in

the

be

as a tnarking-

gauge, a 7norlis e-gauge, depth-gauge,

a

square,

a

scratch-awl, Fig.

38— Odd-jobs.

with the

which a

^^

tool).

this tool

handy one

^^.j^^j^

a

try-

T-square,

a

and a rule

^^^^^

^^j^^

The many purposes for may be used make it

to carry

about for "odd

jobs."

A

Pair of Cutting Pliers (Fig. 16) will

serve as pincers and nippers.

Besides

these you will often be in need of a

Wrench

(Fig. 39) for tightening

and

Fig.

39.- Wrench,

loosening nuts, and other operations; this will be a good addition to ^

page

A

make

satisfactory

153.

to

your

outfit

when you can

home-made plumb-board

for large

work

afford is

it.

described on

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT For holding together glued-up work

29

until the glue

has

set a pair of

Wood Handscrews

(Fig. 40)

are handy, as are also

a pair of

Cabinet-maker's Clamps

glued-up pieces

;

(Fig.

41)

for

holding

wide

n

but you can dispense with

^

both of these by providing yourself with several

Home-made Clamps of different lenorths similar to those shown in Fig. 42. These consist of two strips with two blocks of wood A and B screwed to them 4 or 5

^^Z

J

n Fig. 40.

— Wood

Handscrews.

inches farther apart than the width of the glued-up piece of

N

-y Fig. 41.

— Cabinet-maker's ^^^"^P^"

1

work.

edge

of

Taper

its

Fig. 42.

inner

blocks A, but leave

that of blocks

B

square.

The

work

upon the

strips

is

laid

with one edge against blocks B, then a strip against

the

other edge for

2.

filler,

and a pair

is

of

placed

wedges

— Home-made Clamps for Holding Glued-up Work.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

30

with one edge square and the other cut to

on the edge

A

of blocks

are driven in

fit

the taper

between the

filler

Care must be taken to prevent the

and the blocks.

edges or the center of the work from springing up, when "

driving

home

"

the wedges, or the surface will be wind-

ing when the work

A is

removed.

is

Grindstone can usually be dispensed with, as grinding

not often required

tools

and when

;

it

friendly carpenter

proper care

if

is

taken of the edge

necessary you can usually find a

is

who

will

allow you to use his stone.

But you must have a good Oilstone.

Of the manufactured stones the India

oil-

being very extensively used, while the Lily-

stone

is

white

and the

Rosy-red

Washita oilstones are two

the best natural stones on the market.

Besides an

of

oil-

stone you must of course have an Oiler

and a

bottle of sperm-oil

or sewing-machine lubricating If

you have not

work bench

built tool

and

(Figs. 6

— or bicycle, automobile,

oil.

drawers

7),

in the

ends of your

you must make a chest or

cabinet as soon as possible to protect your tools from injury and from being borrowed without your permission."

When a boy, he

A

the author received his

first outfit of

tools

when

made

Tool-chest out of an old grocery box, this being the

best material at to turn this

box

hand

;

and as

into a chest

well he has decided to

tell

it

and

was such an easy matter it

served the purpose so

you boys how

to

make one

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

31

Figure 43 was drawn from this old chest, which the author still has in his possession. The box

just like

it.

used was, approximately, 26 inches long, 13 inches wide,

and 9 inches deep, but yours need not be

Fig. 43.

— A Grocery-box Tool-chest.

dimensions, only be sure

your large

of these exact

it is

long enough to accommodate

tools.

After selecting your box, renail replace any that

happen

to

be

all

split

loose boards

and

with pieces from

another box.

Fasten together the cover boards with a

batten at each

end {A, Fig. 44) and hinge to the box Buy a hinge-hasp strap-hinges as shown.

with a pair of

32

Fig. 45.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT well,

then give the inside and the tray a coat of boiled

and the outside a coat

linseed-oil

A

33

plan for an easily

Tool Cabinet

This

Craftsman."

made

illustrated

is

of paint or oil stain.

and described

a very simple affair

is

in "

The Boy

made out

of a

box with the cover boards battened together for a door. The author has been asked for a plan for making a paneled door for a cabinet, and as others of you

wish

panel

to

the

door, to

make

a

may

also

neater-appearing

you follow the directions given the Music Cabinet described on

cabinet, he suggests that for

making the door

of

page 124 (see Fig. 137), which a boy to make a paneled door.

A

tool

cabinet

if

is

the simplest

way

for

the handier receptacle for keeping

is

tools within easy reach

a chest

is

;

but

to be preferred

the tools must be carried

about, which

is

often neces-

shop

sary where

the

located in a

damp

place, to

keep them from

rusting.

In case you

A back

make

is

a chest,

Tool-rack on the wall of the

bench

arrangement ^

for

is

a

good

holding^ °

Fig. 46. — A Tool-rack, you are In the photograph opposite page 2 is shown working. such a rack, and Fig. 46 shows how it may be put ,

the

tools

,

.,

while

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

34

The

together.

chisels, auger-bits,

wood

and

drills, awls,

screw-driver stick into the holes bored through the bottom shelf,

and the ends

Nails and spools

small bracket fastened below the shelf.

hold the other tools. see

supported by a

of the small bits are

In the

same photograph you

how boxes may be bracketed

will

to the wall for

Open Shelves for your paint-cans, varnishes, and other

may be supported above rack for miscellaneous articles; also how the under of the work bench may be utilized for supplies,

and how a

the

shelf

part

Material Boxes by fastening boards across the rails to

hold them. Nails

and screws should be kept

order, so the sizes

some kind

in

of

wanted may be got quickly without unnecessary ing,

hunt-

and several

re-

ceptacles for these are

shown

47 to

52.

in Figs.

The

Partitioned

Box will

Fig. 48.

Figs. 47-49.

47-49)

hold six

differ-

SECT'ON

ent lengths of nails.

Fig. 49.

Cut the back and

— Details of Partitioned Nail Box.

(Figs.

Nail

bottom (A and

C,

Fig, 48) 3 feet long

by 8 inches wide, the front (B) the same length by 5 inches wide, and the partitions and end pieces (Z?, Fig.

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

35

49) 6 inches wide by 6 inches high at the back and 5 Nail together the front, back, inches high at the front.

and end

pieces, then nail

partitions

as

hung upon hooks.

wall or

fore putting

on the cover.

If

you screw

it,

do

this be-

Cut the hinge-strip {E, Fig.

place to the partition tops.

one piece, or

Mark

strip.

in

two

it

in

The cover may be made

in

as in Fig. 47; hinge

the sizes of the nails

and fasten

nails of

six

either be screwed to the

inch wide by the length of the box and nail

I

box,

box into

the

to divide

The box may

equal spaces.

49)

so

place

in

on the bottom and fasten the

it

to the hinge-

upon the

corresponding

front of the

sizes in front of the

receptacles with small staples or bent-over brads to help

you

associate

to

the

lengths

with

the

size

numbers.

This box has been planned for co?nmoii nails and to hold sizes

ranging from li inches to

3^-

inches long (4-penny

to i6-penny).

Another Box

may be made

to

hold fijiishing-nails,

papers of brads and tacks, and spikes

and 60-penny

nails).

Bolts and screws

(20-, 30-, 40-, 50-,

may

be kept

in a

third box.

Empty to get

tin

cans and cigar boxes are easy for any boy

and make excellent

Receptacles for Nails, Screws, and Brads.

There

is

a

which molasses and sirup comes (Fig. 50) that is very handy, and baking-powder cans and even tomato cans, if the solder around the rim

can with a removable

of their

opened end

lid

is

in

melted and the end pulled

off,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

36

The

purpose.

will serve the

by side on the

wall,

if

cans

may

be hung up side

mounted upon pieces

of

board

provided with screw-eyes or holes (Figs. 50 and 51).

mount

To

punch four holes through each and wire them to pieces of board as shown in Fig. 51. Cigar

may

boxes Fig. 50.

wooden

Fig. 51.

Can Receptacles Brads, and Screws

Figs. 50 and 51 for Nails,

the cans,

in pip-

be fastened upon

brackets

as

shown

co

After you

have

fitted

up

your workshop with a bench, shelving, racks, and receptacles,

are

and made a chest or cabinet

still

a

before you

number will

of pieces of

for

your

equipment

tools, there

to construct

be ready to

open up your shop

for busi-

ness.

Figure 53 shows A Horse which is very

much

handier than the simpler forms of carpenters' horses, in so far

as

the

board

broader surface

upon and the to lay

top to

shelf

gives lay

a

work

Fig. 52.

— Cigar-box

Receptacles

for Screws, Bolts, or Miscellane-

ous Hardware.

underneath makes a convenient place

saws and other

tools.

This horse

is

very com-

monly used by carpenters. Details for its construction are shown in Figs. 54, 55, and 56. Cut the body A 3

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

10 inches long out of a piece of 2-by-4, and cut the

feet

B

four legs I

37

-inch stuff,

dimensions shown in Fig. 55 out of with one edge to the

Trim

tapered f inch.

off

the upper ends of the legs

shown when the

as

ends apart.

56,

so

legs are nailed

body the

the

to

Fig.

in

be

will

Nail

16

the

lower inches legs

in ^^^- S3-

place about 5 inches from

— Horse.

the ends of the body, then cut the end rails (C, Fig. 54)

and the side

rails

D

and

inches wide

3

of the required

length and nail them to the legs 9 inches below the body.

Cut the tray bottom boards

>F^

to

fit

between the

rails

them

Fig. 54) and fasten

B

with nails driven through the

!-L

Fig. 55.

54.

FiGS. 54-56.

When

-Details of Horse.

the horse has been

probably find that

it

edges.

rails into their

F

Cut the top board

Fig. 56.

Fig.

(^,

feet

long

stuff

and screw

out

of it

4

i-inch to the

body, countersinking the

screw-heads

as a

protec-

^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^1^^ nailed

together,

does not stand evenly

—

at

you

will

any

rate,

the legs will not be cut to the right angle on the bottom

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

^S

and

not rest squarely upon the

will

trimming, an extra inch was added

place

will

it

occupy

your shop, so

in

may be made

out of level the horse

up the top

inch thick, slide

mark

it

;

length of the

in case the floor is

to stand evenly in that

and put a chip under

place, locate the short leg, to level

to the

allow for

Set the horse in the

pattern (Fig. 55).

legs, in the leg

To

floor.

it

so as

then take a block of wood about

around the bottom

of

each

leg,

i

and

a line across each face even with the top of the

Saw

block.

the legs off on these lines

;

and

if

the

work

has been done carefully, the horse will stand perfectly even.

If

pleting

it,

you find that the horse it

the legs as

will

much

is

too high after com-

be an easy enough matter to trim off as

is

necessary to

make

suit

it

your

heio^ht.

You to lay

should have two horses

in

your shop across which

long pieces of work for marking and sawing.

may be used make these. You will

course a couple of packing boxes

have plenty

of

time to

until

Of you

also find

that a chair will serve the purpose of

A

Saw-bench for small work about as well as a horse

would.

Such usage

will

however, unless the seat

be rather hard on the chair,

is

protected in

some way,

so

if

you want

A Chair

Saw-bench, prepare a wooden cover that can be

placed over the seat as shown in Fig. 57.

cover 20 inches long and

Make

this

16 inches wide; fasten the

boards tosrether at the ends with battens of

iust

the

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

Fig. 57.

39

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

40

enough

practice in sawing so you can

saw very accurately,

you had better have a carpenter cut these

A

Benoh-hook (Fig. 60)

is

used for a number of opera-

For paring with your

tions.

for you.

chisel

and chopping with

your hatchet protection

furnishes

it

bench

the

to

which would other-

top,

wise be cut up badly in a short time

is

it

;

handy

to

and other small

lay sticks

pieces on for sawing with

the back-saw, and by Fig. 6o.

right-

ing a right-angle kerf (slot

— Bench-hook.

made by

and a left-hand mitered kerf

and

of a piece of

in the stop strip

board about

nail the Jiook cleat to the

and the mitered stop

may

handle try-square easier to cut

The

them

(Fig.

1

2

it

may

Make

the

inches square,

under side

to the opposite

kerfs in the stop strip

and a

saw)

a

be used for sawing small work accurately.

bench-hook out

mak-

one edge

of

edge as shown.

The

be laid out with a mitered

67,

page

52),

but

it

will

be

in a miter-box.

operation of truing the edge of a board

as jointing or shooting,

and

to

is

known

hold the work and guide

the plane while shooting short, narrow pieces of work,

A Shooting-board

is

generally used.

show the construction out of

I

-inch stuff,

A

of

one

Figures 61 and 62

of these.

Cut the pieces

\\\ inches wide by 24 inches long,

TOOLS AND HOME-MADE SHOP EQUIPMENT

B

inches wide by 24 inches long,

7-|

C

2

41

inches wide by

D

2 inches wide by 24 inches long. 7J inches long, and It is necessary to have the faces and edges straight and

true in order to it

make

possible to true up

other pieces of work

by means

of a shoot-

Bevel

ing-board. off the

lower right-

hand edge 62), it

of

then nail or screw

to board

A

with Fig. 61.

left-hand edges

the

Nail

flush.

C

B (Fig.

to

^

Figs. 61-62. — Shootinor-board.

strip

so that

its

end

exactly at right angles with

is

the right-hand edge of board B. left-hand

edge

In using

of

D

Nail strip

to the

board A.

upon the against the bench apron and

the shooting-board,

it

is

placed

strip

D

close

the end of board

A

shoved against the bench-stop, then

bench with

the board to be jointed

end against

C, w^hich

is

placed upon board

forms a

stop,

B

with one

and the edge

to be

planed projecting over the right-hand edge of board with the plane turned on

worked back and forth off

accurately.

The

its

side

upon board

until the

A

it is

of the plane

bevel on the edge of

and throwing

then

edge has been planed

B

forms a

groove which keeps small shavings from getting

way

B\

it

out of

line.

in the

m^a CHAPTER

III

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

you boys, no doubt, are studying manual training and learning the use of wood-working tools, how to select material, and how to lay out and carry to com-

Many

of

pletion a piece of work.

But the majority

not provide these advantages, and the course of

Instruction

many

only to

of schools

do

that do, furnish

boys of the higher

number of my readers are boys who must depend largely upon handicraft books and their own power of observation for a knowledge of how

grades, so that the greater

to

do things.

There are

all

sorts of things

which the average boy

can construct without having had instruction in the making of wood joints, and in putting together an article

and finishing

making

it,

but for any particular work, such as the

of furniture

or give away, you

and things which you wish

must understand how

order that the work

may

to

to sell

proceed In

not only be substantially con-

structed, but be pleasing to the eye as well.

The

sug-

gestions and pointers presented in this chapter are in-

tended to help you to attain these 42

results,

and those

of

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

43

you who are studying manual training will do well to read over the instructions, as you will likely find some-

new among them which will aid you in carrying out the work described in succeeding chapters. Every boy should, first of all, know something about thing

the Selection of

The

Working Material.

softer

woods

are

better for the beginner to use, as they are easier to work.

Of

hemlock, redwood, white-

these, pine, cypress, spruce,

wood, and basswood are probably best adapted to amateur work.

The

depends largely upon the

selection

certain varieties

than another.

locality,

being easier to procure in one place

Clear white pine

is

the choicest of the

woods for cabinet making and all other nice work, but is becoming so scarce that it is now almost impossi-

soft

many

ble to get in

parts of the country.

other very easily worked is

also good,

and can be had

whitewood (from the the

linden

The

latter

wood

tree)

the California

in very

tulip tree)

furnish

two woods

;

Cypress

is

an-

redwood

wide boards

;

and

and basswood (from

excellent

working material.

are close-grained, take stain ex-

ceedingly well, can be procured in boards of considerable width, and are especially

good material

amateur work, one feature

in their favor

that they are not easily split in nailing.

jectionable point

is

their

for

all

sorts of

being the fact

The only

ob-

great tendency to warp, but

warping may be prevented by cleating together wide pieces used in large work.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

44

work of It is cheap, easily worked, and the amateur craftsman. easier to finish than the more expensive woods, which

Of the hard woods, oak

very exact

require

is

best suited to the

workmanship, the slightest defect

showing through the highly polished or satin-finish surOak takes stain faces customarily put upon them. readily and looks best when treated in this way and then

waxed

— one

of

on successfully.

the finishes easiest for a boy

to

put

Ash, maple, cherry, birch, mahogany,

and walnut are other hard woods which you will likely have occasion to use later on when you have had more experience in your work.

Many

of

you boys have seen how logs are cut up into will

be well for

know something about the of Wood and how this must be

taken into

boards, planks, and heavier pieces, but all of

you

to

Structure

it

consideration in converting the log into lumber, as will

it

enable you to select and handle your material more

intelligently.

Figure 63 shows a cross-section

In the center, or generally a center,

is

rounding

a circular core

known

to

one side

of

the

as the pith, then sur-

known as annual rings, bark. The wood between

this is a series of circles

and around the outside each two

little

of a log.

rings

is

the

represents the

amount

of

one year's

growth, and the annual rings are produced as a result of the suspension of growth during

counting the rings of a tree.

The

it is

autumn and

winter.

By

very easy to determine the age

inner portion of the tree

is

known

as the

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING more

heart-wood and supplies the

45

and desirable

solid

material (unless the tree has started to decay, first

when

the

signs are generally to be found here), while the outer

wood

is

known

the sap-wood^

as

as

contains

it

the

greater portion of the tree's

In the cross-sections

juices.

63 and 64) you

of logs (Figs.

notice a

series

of

lines

radiating from the pith,

some

will

extending as far as the bark

Fig. 63.

Fig. 64.

Tree Structure.

Cracks in Loss.

and others running but part way.

These, called the viedtillary

formation in a tree and produce what

grain upon the surface

of all

are a peculiar

7'ays, is

known

as silver-

quarter-sawed wood.

The

must be taken into consideration in Cutting up the Log, and different methods of sawing are employed according to the purpose for which the wood is to be used. The common method of plain sazuing is shown in Fig. 65. tree structure

With

produced Fig. 65.

Plain-sawed.

is

Quarter-sawed.

illustration, that

When wood

the sawdust

and bark removed.

But you

by looking

at the

with the exception of one board taken

through the center boards

in

waste

Fig. 66.

will notice,

the

only

the

this

of the pith, the

obliquely

;

this

is

the

annual rings cross cause

of

drys out (seasons)^ the greatest

warping.

amount

of

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

46

shrinkage occurs along the Hne of the annual rings, therefore the longer the arc of the ring crossing the cross-sec-

tion of a board, the greater the shrinkage along that arc

and plain-sawed

will be,

lengths crossing

Warping

the result.

of

different

shrink unequally and warp

will

it,

having arcs

stuff,

is

more

as

noticeable, of course, in

wide than in narrow boards and must be taken care of by cleatmg or some other method of holding the wood in position.

The board sawing

cut from the center of the log in plain

the

is

only one which

To

marked degree.

grain to a

show the

will

get

silver-

this effect

upon

every board Quarter Sawing

is

necessary (Fig. 66).

sawed into quarters, then each quarter

is

The

log

sawed up

is first

radially

so the surface of each board will be parallel with the

medullary

A is

rays.

Strictly speaking, the quarter

shows the only proper method

of quarter sawing, as

the only one in which each board

rays,

but methods B, C, and

considerable waste of

sorted into different grades. fact

that

more time

quarter-sawed stock

sawed

The

stuff.

is

is

D are also

material,

marked

parallel with the

used, as they save

and boards so cut are

The

big waste, and the

required in the cutting,

much more

it

make

expensive than plain-

irregular pieces cut from between the

boards are usually utilized for moldings and other small pieces,

and

this

Besides the

reduces the amount of waste somewhat.

beautiful

markings, quarter-sawed boards

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

47

have the advantage of uniform shrinkage and are not likely to warp.

Knots

cup-shakes, heart-shakes,

^

and checks are defects

occurring in logs and produce a big waste in the manufacture of lumber.

The

portions containing these are either

away or, where not very marked, the boards cut from them are sorted into the poorer grades of lumber. First and second grades generally admit boards with small, cut

sound

— pin knots and standard knots, — but

Knots, to a

lumber yard or

mill for

your material, you

if

you go

will

prob-

ably be allowed to pick out pieces from the pile which are clear or

which have knots

in places

where they can

easily

be cut out without spoiling the boards for your purpose. Cracks, however, such as

Cup-shakes and Heart-shakes, the former being cracks

between the rings and the lary rays

latter cracks

(Fig. 64), should not

along the medul-

appear upon any boards

but those of the poorest grade of lumber, so do not dealer pass

them

off

on you for first-grade

stuff.

let a

Boards

are likely to split at the ends through drying out unevenly,

and these

rifts

are

known

as

Very long checks extending

Checks.

a board are not admitted in likely to occur

time and

is

a

first

entirely through

grades, but checking

is

even after the piece has seasonediox a long

common

fault with large

timbers where the

outside dries out long before the center.

After the boards have been cut,

it is

necessary that the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

48

sap be evaporated before they are

fit

The two

to use.

methods employed are known as up the boards

Seasoning, which consists in piling

large piles in the open, with narrow strips of

between each layer

to

throughout the

and leaving them

for

from two

pile,

in

wood placed

allow a free circulation of air

to four years,

in this position

and

method of which consists in piling similar manner in large chambers or

Kiln Drying, the best

up the lumber

in a

kilns 2iXidi passing condensed steam through and around the

boards for a period of two weeks, to open up the pores and cause the water to run out, and then shutting off the steam

and passing a forced circulation for another

The

two weeks.

on lumber used

of heated air

latter

for fine furniture

through them

method

is

employed

but as a rule material

;

for ordinary purposes remains in the kilns not over forty-

eight hours, and often a

this.

The

for the

wood,

much

of the

much shorter time than

slower the process of drying, the better

it is

for the reason that rapid drying destroys elasticity

On

and toughness.

fact that kiln-dried stock

is

this

more

sensitive to atmospheric

changes, weather-seasoned lumber

Lumber

is

spoken

account and for the

is

much

to be preferred.

of as

As produced from a log, it Undressed Stuff, and when the roughness Stock or

Stuff.

saw has been removed by the Dressed Stuff

only one side

is

(specified

D

smoothed,

it

planer,

it is

is

left

as

by the

called

upon material is

known

bills).

If

said to be surfaced-one-

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

49

two sides and one edge, surfacedtwo-sides-and-one-edge (marked S-2-S'&-i-E), etc.

side

(marked S-i-S)

;

if

Toiigued-and-grooved boards (Fig. 75) are

known

as

Matched Stuff (specified M), and when they are also beaded, they are said to be

Matched-and-Beaded (specified M-&'B). material

is

called ceiling,

and

is

The beaded

used for porch ceilings,

backs of pantry cases, wainscotings,

etc.

Lumber up to 2 inches thick (undressed) is known Boards, when 2 inches or more in thickness as Planks or Dimension more,

Stuff,

as

and when four inches or

called

it is

Timber Stock Sizes of Lumber. thickness and \ inch in

Boards are reduced \ inch in width from the original dimen-

must be taken into In some localities

sions in the process of dressing, which

consideration in this is is

laying out

w^ork.

allowed for in cutting up the log, but as a rule

Thus, a board

not.

in the rough,

i

inch thick and 12 inches, wide,

would be | inch thick and

wide when dressed, but as a matter of fact stock

now being sawed about -^

is

2

\\\ inches i-inch

all

inch under

i

inch,

only ^| inch thick when dressed. inches or more in thickness is reduced \ inch in

and as a Stock

it

result

dressing.

is

Thus, a 2-inch by 4-inch piece

is

only

if

inches thick and 3f inches wide when dressed. To avoid the use of fractions as much as possible, stock is

generally

known by

its

undressed dimensions, as follows:

-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

50

i-by-i 2-inch I

stuff,

2-by-4-inch stuff (or simply 2-by-4's),

-inch stock (generally spoken of as J-inch stock,

which

was the dressed thickness), etc. The regular thicknesses of dressed lumber are f inch (i-inch stock), originally

:

I inch (|-inch

stock), ^-f inch (i-inch stock),

i|-

inches

(ij-inch stock), if inches (if-inch stock), i| inches (2-inch

3I inches (4-inch), 5f inches (6-inch), yf inches (8-inch), etc., each succeeding width increasing 2 inches, and the standard

stock), etc., the widths are if inches (2-inch),

lengths run from 10 feet to 20 feet in even numbers. In Purchasing Material,

there

if

is

not a mill or lum-

ber yard near by where you can go and place your order

you can probably arrange with a friendly carpenter to buy your stock for you when he is purchasing direct,

some

for himself.

Make

out

A Mill List with the number of pieces of each size desired, the kind of wood, the dimensions (place the thickness

then the width, and dressing,

Pieces

last the

matchmg, beading,

first,

length) and the directions for etc.,

in the following order

:

—

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING Lumber

sold by the thousand feet (per M), so after

is

finding the existing retail price

it is

an easy matter

A

To Estimate the Cost of your material.

board

i

51

piece of

inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long

Upon

figured as a board foot.

this basis a piece

i

is

inch by

would contain 4 board feet, and a piece 2 inches by 4 inches by 12 feet would contain 8 board feet. Any thickness under i inch is figured the 4 inches by

same

1

2

feet

The

as i-inch stuff.

retail price ordinarily

covers

dressing, but matching, grooving, rabbeting, beading,

other machine

work

is

and

extra.

Before attempting any shop cabinet making, a boy

should spend some time

in

getting accustomed to hand-

work accurately, plane up a surface true and smooth, and saw " The Proper Handling of Tools " is described to a line. in " The Boy Craftsman," and it is not my intention to

ling his tools properly, so as to be able to

lay out

repeat these instructions here, only so far as essary to to cut

show

and

join

the right its

way

is

nec-

to lay out a piece of work,

various parts, and to finish

Laying Out Work.

it

its

surface.

Unless you lay out a piece of work

you cannot expect to turn out a satisfactory because nothing will fit, and if you are careless at the

accurately, job,

start,

well.

you

will likely

To

be careless in the other operations as

guard against mistakes,

it is

always best to

check up measurements as you go along. Use a 2-foot rule or a carpenter's square with which to lay off measurements, and a carpenter's square or try-square for

j-^r/^-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

52

mg lines

between points and carrying them around the (See Fig. 67; also Pla7i-

four sides of a piece of work. tjig

page

Exercise on

A

54.)

sharp

be

lead-pencil

used

may

scribing,

for

but the work can be

done more accurately with a jack-knife; however,

a knife line can

be made only upon surfaces

where

will

it

be

removed by cutting or concealed Fig. 67.

— Scribing with

Knife and Try-

piece of wood.

square.

When

scribe a line parallel to

operation

is

known

an edge

marking-gauge.

you wish

of a piece of

to

work, the

as

Figures 68 and 76 show

Gauging.

bv another

Suppose you wish

how

to

gauge with a

to cut a piece 3 inches

wide from a 4-inch You must first board. test it

one edge and true

up,

make

necessary, to

if

straight for a

it

working edge

(see

Plan-

ing Exercise)^ then place

the

head

of the

s^auffe ag^ainst this edsre

^ » Fig. with board, and the of

<^

<=>

<=>

,^

68.

— ^Gauging with a Marking-gauge ..u

^^r

(a Mortise-gauge).

1

•

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

53

the spur in the shaft pressed into the surface of the

wood

along the board for a

(Fig. 68), scratch a line

distance equal to the length of the piece to be removed;

upon the opposite face and you will then have a guide-line upon both faces to saw and plane to, which is exactly parallel to and at a distance of The gauge is also used 3 inches from the working edge.

also scribe the line

for laying out various

spur upon the shaft

forms of wood

joints.

of the mortise-gauge

is

The

double-

provided for

laying out the two sides of a mortise or groove

one operation (Fig.

in

76), the

outer spur being fixed and

made adjustby means of a thumb-

the inner one able

screw in the end of the shaft.

This form

of

gauge saves

lots of time, especially

you have a number tises or

when

of

grooves of one

morsize

to lay out.

Figure

69 shows

how

FiG. 69.

— Gauging with Pencil and

gauging may be done with

Carpenter's Square.

a pencil and carpenter's square.

Hold the body

of the

square against the edge of the work, with the tongue ex-

tended across the face upon which the line

and the pencil held against the edge

and then, with the fingers braced

as

is

to

be scribed

at the desired point,

shown

to hold the pen-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

54

move the square toward you with your left hand The same operation may be performed with a try-square and pencil. You will require some practice before you cil

steady,

be able to gauge successfully in this manner, but it is easy when you get

will

the knack of doing it.

A

cil

may

for

rule

and pen-

also be used

gauging,

shown

in "

as

is

The Boy

Craftsman."^ While these

methods

will

answer the purpose for

rough work,

marking-gauge

is

a to

be preferred for great accuracy. FiG. 70. Fig.

71.— Testing

Fig. 72.

For a Planing Ex-

— Testing with a Try-square.

— Testing

with a Carpenter's Square.

©fClSe

an Edge from the Working

of

take a piCCC

board about

inches long.

one

test

side,

eyes and of

the

The

12

F'irst,

holding the board on a level with your

sighting across

try-square

it

while you

move

the edge

along the entire length (Fig.

70).

and you

will

square will strike the high places

them

be able to distinguish

as

the light

will

beneath the edge of the square, in the hollows. 1

Page 43.

show Locate

;

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

55

the high portions as you pass over them, by drawing

them

a line around

Also

A

good

by means

is

of exactly the

test,

winding (twisting

in

of ^j-^.

Get two pieces

same

size for the sticks.

Winding-sticks (Fig.

the

Fig. 70, so you will

71).

w^ay to test a board for

the length)

molding

in

board lengthwise with the carpenter's

test the

square (Fig.

shown

the places are which require the most plan-

know where ing.

as

of

square

To make

place both sticks across the board, one at the

farther end and the

other

the

at

end, and

near

hold the

board level and at the proper height to

make the

tops

the

upon

sticks

level with

sicrht sticks,

of

a

your eyes

across

and

may know

if

Fig. 73.

the

—Testing with Winding-sticks.

their tops appear to be exactly on a line,

that there

is

no windXo the board

;

if

you

one end

one stick appears above the corresponding end of the other stick, you can easily determine where and how^ much of

the wind

is.

After determining w^here planing

is

necessary, place

the board in your bench-vise and plane up the face, test-

ing true.

it

again and again until you find

This

first

trued surface

is

it

to be perfectly

called the

working face

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

56

and should be marked with a cross (Fig.

With

67).

ha7idle of the try-square held firmly against this

working

and the blade extending across an edge (Fig.

face

move

it

plane

72),

along the surface, locate the high places, and

up and

it

the

test

it

as

you did the working

face.

Mark

which now becomes the working edge, with two Next, set the markingshort parallel lines (Fig. 68). this edge,

gauge to any thickness desired for the board and, with the head of the gauge pressed firmly against the working

gauge

face,

face to the

a line along each edge.

gauge

lines, test

Plane up the second

The ends of With the handle

and true up.

the board should be trimmed off next.

of the try-square pressed firmly against the first

scribe a line across the

working

face,

working edge, then, with the

handle of the square against the working edge, continue this line across the

working face and the opposite

From the working face carry the Then, from the scribed

edge.

which you wish

line across the unfinished line, lay off

to cut the piece

around the four sides

face.

the length to

and scribe another

at that distance.

Saw

off the

line

ends

board about \ inch outside of the lines, to allow for planing them up smooth. In planing across e7td of the

grain, the farther edge will split

This

difficulty

of

wood

it

is

90),

may

in front of

better

which

unless protected.

be overcome by placing another piece it

when you clamp

it

in the vise,

chamfer the unfinished edge

to is

down

the only reason

before the ends.

for

not

but

(see

Fig.

finishing

this

After planing off both ends square, set

;

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING the gauge to the width you wish to

make

57

the board and

gauge a Kne along the faces and across the ends, sHding the head of the gauge along the working edge (Fig. 68) then saw off the edge to within about |- inch of the lines with a rip-saw and finish the edge with the plane. For a Sawing Exercise, scribe a series of lines around a trued-up block of wood with your try-square, then place the block in your vise and see

how

well you can keep to

the line while sawing through the block.

Stick to this

saw the block through exactly on Guide the without running off at any point.

exercise until you can

the line,

saw with your a

little

line,

left

thumb

until

it

has cut into the

wood

way, hold the saw exactly at right angles to the

and use long, steady strokes.

No

better exercises in laying out work, planing,

and

sawing can be found than the makingof the Joints and Splices used for joining together pieces of

wood, and

it is

important to practice upon such joinings

before attempting to use in

order that you

may

them upon a

nice piece of work,

not run the risk of spoiling material.

Any odd-sized pieces of wood which you have on hand may be used for these exercises as the proportions of the joints may be worked out to suit the size of the piece. The most important

joints

and splices are shown

in

By a joint is 74 and 75 (pages 58 and 59). meant any kind of a connection between two pieces placed Figs.

at

an angle

to

one another, while a

between two pieces placed

splice is a

in a straight line.

connection

Fig. 74.

— Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 58

Fig. 75.

— Common Forms of Joints and Splices. 59

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

6o

You

are familiar, of course, with the

Common-joint and the Butt-joint, though perhaps you

do not know them by name, and no doubt you have used a better form the Common-splice and the Fished-splice of splice

—

—

in joining

together pieces which have been too

short in putting up the frameworks for your club-house, tree huts,

one

and other work.

You

will possibly

have

of these in constructing the partition for a

workshop, or

an

Chapter VIII.

attic

room such

The above

joints

as

and

is

to

use

basement

described in

shown

splices are

and require no explanation.

clearly in the illustrations

In the preparation of

A

Halved-joint, or Half-lap joint, as

called, a piece equal

thickness will fit

cut

is

to the

sometimes

width and one half

away from each member

may

of the

so the pieces

The

be done at the ends of the pieces as at

and B, or away from the end the center of both pieces as

of

one piece as

shown

saw

if

at C, or in

in Fig. 126 (page 113).

pieces.

The wood should be removed

with a

the ends of the pieces are halved, or with

a saw and chisel

The end

if

the lap

is

halved-joint

made

at the center of the

must be fastened together

with nails or screws, but the cejtter halvedjoint

ra2iy

some-

times be fastened with glue alone.

By joining two

A

A

a square and marking-gauge for laying out the lines

for the halving. fine

is

together with their surfaces even or Jlusk.

cutting

Use

it

Halved-splice

pieces lengthwise with a halved-joint is

obtained (Fig. 74).

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

6i

The Mortise-and-Tenon Joint is one of the most Important of cabinet-makers' joints, and you will have occasion to

employ

in joining together

it

work when

it

is

necessary

make strong connections. Several forms of this joint are shown in Fig. 74, and the method of laying out the to

mortise and the tenon is

shown

and

Figs.

in

76

Both mem-

^'],

bers of the joint should

be finished up to

first

the proper

size,

except

that additional length

must be

left

on

the

tenon piece to allow for the cuttinor ^ of the

Fig.

Fig. 76.

.

'j'].

tenon, and the mortise

Laying out a Mortise

Tenon

piece should also be a

with the Mortise-gauge.

out ready to be Cut.

little

to

longer

if

the cutting

is

done near the end,

to be

Ordinarily the mor-

prevent the end from splitting.

tise

should not be more than one third of the width of the

piece

it

is

cut through, and the tenon not less then one

third of the width of the piece

neither piece will be I

Piece laid

shall

and-tenon

explain, joint,

in

it

is

cut on, in order that

weakened by the cutting. first, the making of the mortisewhich the mortise

through the piece.

Lay

off the

is

cut entirely

length of the mortise

equal to the width of the tenon piece and scribe lines

around the four sides

of the block to

determine the ends

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

62

(Fig. 76), then set your mortise-gauge to the width of the

mortise and scribe the two side Hnes (Fig. 76) on both faces of the piece.

The width

should be

of the mortise

made one

of if

the exact width of

your

chisels,

possible, so that the

cutting of the entire

may

width

be done in

one operation (Figs. "jS

and 79)

this will

;

leave

little

or no trim-

ming

to

do on the

sides.

To tise,

cut

mor-

the

place the piece of

work upon the bench with one end toward you,

then

with

chisel held as Fig. 78.

— Cutting a

in

Fig.

jS,

the

shown

with the

Mortise.

Fig. 79.

— Trimmins

up the Ends.

beveled

facing

you, start at the middle

Fig. 78.

side

of

the space

marked out and drive the chisel into the wood, then withdraw the chisel, set its

edge about | inch back

into the

now and

wood again

;

of this first cut

and drive

it

continue cutting in this manner,

then prying out the pieces between the cuts

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING until the farther

63

guide-Hne has been reached, then reverse

work and, starting at the center cut from there back to the other end of the

the position of the piece of again,

The

space.

mortise should be cut through one half the

thickness of the piece, then the piece should be turned

over and the remaining one half cut through from that face.

The ends

must then be trimmed

of the mortise

work the

this part of the

toward the

flat

line as in Fig. 79.

made by boring

and for

must be held This trimming, ox parmg,

side of the chisel

should be done without the use of a mallet. very often

up,

a

number

A mortise is

of holes

and then

trimming up

to the guide-line with a chisel, in the

manner

described for cutting large, round holes on

as

is

page 142 (see Fig.

Lay for

off the

same

156).

length of the tenon with enough allowance

trimming the end

later,

then scribe a line around the

four sides of the piece to locate the shoiclder of the tenon (Fig.

Set the spurs of the mortise-gauge a

77).

farther

apart than the width of

the

mortise, to

trifle

allow

saw in cutting, and scribe the side lines of the tenon from the shoulder line to the end, across the end, and down the other side to the shoulder

for the thickness of the

With

line.

shoulder

line,

a

back-saw cut the shoulders along the

being very careful to saw exactly on the

line,

then place the piece in the bench-vise as shown in Fig. 80

and cut down the sides tenon should that

it

will

fit

of the

tenon

to the shoulder.

fairly tight in the mortise,

not drive easily

The

but not so tight

when coated with

glue.

If

a

;

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

64 little

too large for the mortise, trim the tenon with a

Short tenons

chisel.

may be

cut entirely with the chisel.

After fitting the pieces together, trim off the end of the

One

tenon flush with the face of the mortise.

of the

tenon pieces shown the

in

illustration

has a shoulder cut

upon which done

all

four sides,

is

commonly

to conceal the

edges of the mortise,

while one of the

shown but part way

mortises cut

is

through (a

the Fig. 8o.

-Cutting

the Sides of a Tenon.

the

blmd

piece

mortise)

tenon for the

j^^^^^ mortise

mUSt

be made \ inch shorter than the depth of the mortise to allow plenty of clearance for the end. The open mortiseand-terion joint illustrated to

make than

is

a

the closed joint,

common form and simpler as the mortise may be cut

with a saw and chisel. In

making the

furniture detailed in Chapter

VI you

wuU use the full-depth mortise only on pieces through

which the tenon

projects,

and

iox pins, as

you

will see

by

looking at the working-drawings, the blind mortise being

made

in all other cases.

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

65

Tenons may be fastened in place with glue, nails, For gluing see page 72, for screws, pins, or wedges. nailing see page 74, and for screwing see page 72.

The form

of

Pins which you will use most are those described for the construction of the furniture in Chapter VI.

In Fig.

74 you will see another common way of pinning together the members of a mortise-and-tenon joint. First of all, a small hole

the tenon hole

is

bored through the sides

of the mortise,

then

slipped into place and the position of the

is

marked upon

and then the hole

it,

is

bored through

the tenon about

j^ inch nearer to the shoulder than where located. By changing the position of the hole you will see that the pin will draw the shoulder on the tenon piece tight against the mortise piece, place.

into

For

Wedging the tenon (Fig.

sawed

when driven

in the

end

of the

74),

one or more kerfs are

tenon, and after the tenon has

been slipped through the mortise, wood wedges are coated with glue and driven into the kerfs, thus spreading the

end

of the

of a

hammer

A

Rabbet

tenon

is

is

the

in

same way

in

which the handle

fastened in the head.

a square-corner groove cut in the edge of

a board (Fig. 75), and

A

Rabbet-joint

may

be made by fitting a square-edge

piece into a rabbeted piece, by fitting together two pieces

with rabbeted edges, and by fitting a rabbeted piece into ?i

grooved "^x^Q.^.

A

rabbet

may

be cut with a chisel after

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

66

the

manner described

for cutting a mortise (Fig. 78), or

if it

extends along the

full

be cut with a saw it

;

but

if

length of a short piece,

it

may

you have much rabbeting to

do,

be well to have a rabbet-plane (Fig. 22) for the

will

purpose, or have your work done at a mill.

Grooves

may

be cut with a chisel in the same

mortises are cut, but this work

is

also simplified

way

that

by using

a dado-plane (Fig. 23).

The

A

similarity

Housed-joint often causes a confusion of

But there

edge

between a rabbet-joint and

of

is

no rabbeting

one piece being

cut in the other; so

if

the two.

in the housed-joint, the entire

fitted,

you

will

or housed, into a groove

remember

this,

you

will

have no trouble in distinguishing one from the other.

The Tongue-and-Groove Joint

is

one which you

probably never have occasion to make, and do,

it

will

You

will,

you ever

be best to take your work to a mill and have

done by machines especially made

it

if

will

however, have need

of

boards for work requiring tight

for the purpose.

tongued-and-grooved joints,

and

these, of

course, are stock stuff.

The Mitered- joint

will

be used a great deal in making

picture-frames and other cabinet work.

made in The accuracy.

45-degree cut and should be

It

is

always a

a miter-box (Fig.

show A Mitered-splice, or beveled-lap splice, used a good deal in splicing long stretches of interior woodwork. The Dovetail-joint is a joint you will never need to 59'

P^g^ 39) ^o insure

illustrations

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINLNG apply to your work, in of

accuracy

required in

is

for this reason

and

The

besfinner.

it

and sides

probability, but a great degree

making

it

to secure a neat job,

furnishes a splendid exercise for a

dovetail in modified forms

is

used in the

boxes, and in the joining of the

of small

manufacture front

all

67

of drawers, in

which case

it is all

done by

a machine.

Figures 81 to 84 show the necessary steps for dovetailing the ends of two pieces by hand.

First,

plane up the

pieces true and to the

same width and

thick-

ness,

then taking the

piece

upon which the mortises

dovetail

are

be

cut

(Fig.

81),

scribe

the

line

AB

to

around the two faces and edges

at

a

Fig. 82.

Fig. 81. YiGS. 81-84.

dis-

Fig. 84.

Fic;. 83.

— Details of the Dovetail-joint.

tance from the end equal to the exact thickness of the

tenon piece.

upon

nately,

Lay

off

this

line

spaces of | inch and | inch,

and scribe

alter-

to the

lines parallel

edges of the piece from these points to the end, around the end.

and back

to line

AB on

lay off the oblique side lines of the mortises faces,

Next,

the other face.

on both

then place the piece in the bench-vise, end up,

and saw down along these lines as a fine saw for the purpose,

after

wood between, marked M, with

far as line

w^hich

AB,

cut

a chisel (Fig. 82).

using

out

the

Place

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

68

the finished

mark

piece and

move

mortise

the

piece upon the end of the tenon

off the tenons, then, to allow for cutting,

over about

lines

inch each side of the

-^q

tenons and, after this has been done, scribe their ends across

to

AB, which

line

this piece at a distance

from the end equal

ness of the mortise piece (Fig. sists in

be scribed around

should

The

87,).

sawing down along the side

last step

con-

lines of the tenons

and cutting out the wood between, marked

A

to the thick-

T (Fig.

84).

Dovetail Half-lap Joint (Fig. 75) has the advantage

over an ordinary half-lap joint of so locking the pieces that

it is

impossible to pull

apart, lengthwise of the

it

pieces, without breaking the tenon.

The Dowel-joint (Fig. 75)

is

are fastened together with

The form

wooden pins

the right

joint,

but

or

at

satisfactory than to cut of the holes in the

for doweling,

them out

some

practice.

fit

to a

measurement equal

and, from the

The boring

together yf^/i-// andyf^/,

After you

edges of the pieces (see page

gauge

yourself.

proper positions and at right angles

to the edges, so the pieces will

requires

Dowel sticks

and you can get any furniture shop, which will be more

of all diameters are

what you need

of a

more boards may

be doweled together to form a wide piece.

made

called dowels.

often used in cheap work.

is

shown how two

is

members

and neatness

at the left lacks the strength

mortise-and-tenon

At

a butt-joint, but the

working face

40),

of

to

have jointed the

set

your marking-

one half their thickness,

each board, gauge a line

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING

69

along the entire length of the edge for a center-line.

Then

place the boards back to back in your bench-vise,

with the edges even, locate the centers of the holes along

one center-line and scribe lines from these points across the

to

other center-line.

the boards are perfectly

If

and the holes are bored

straight

carefully, the

dowels

will

bring the pieces together exactly right, but in case

you

find they

do not

fit,

it is

easy enough to adjust the

trouble by boring extra pairs of holes at the points where the boards are out of line, shifting the centers just as

much

as

Bevel the edges of the holes with

necessary.

is

a knife or a countersink to form pockets around the

To

dowels for glue.

allow plenty of clearance, cut the

dowels about \ inch shorter than the combined depths of the holes, then, after you have found that the boards fit together perfectly, coat

one half

of

the length of the

dowels with glue and stick them into the holes of the edges. of

Allow the glue

to

set,

in

one

then coat the edge

each board and the other half of each dowel with

glue, put

the pieces together and clamp

Allow the glue

to set for

them

tightly.

about a day before releasing

the work.

Battens are strips fastened across two or more pieces of

wood

Fig. 44,

for the

page

purpose of holding them together {A,

32),

while

Cleats are strips often used for the

same purpose, but

generally so secured that the pieces will have a chance to swell

and shrink.

It

is

well

enough

to nail battens

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

70

across boards in rough

work where

for cabinet work.

not important

not, but

whether the joints remain closed or

do

is

it

it

will not

woodwork expands and con-

All

tracts to a certain extent with

changes

in the

temperature,

and when battens are securely fastened across glued-up work they do not check this movement, nor do the nails or screws give

enough

to take care of

thing possible takes place

it,

so the only other

— the wood breaks away from the fastenings and possibly splits

from

end

Figure 85 shows

end.

to

how

the

movement may be taken care of by attaching cleats Fig. 85.

— The

Proper

Way

to cleat

^^^''^^'

tO the

WOrk.

are held

in

These

cleats

place with

screws, but the screw holes are bored about twice the size of the screws,

the

holes

are

used

and washers large enough to

support

the

cover

to

screw-heads.

By

placing the screws in the exact center of the holes, the

ends are free to work back and forth with the movement of the

wood.

Cleats are attached to the back of single

boards and glued-up work in the same way, to prevent warping, and sometimes they are grooved on to the ends of work.

A

strip fastened

up

for a shelf or

drawer sup-

known as a cleat. You have now learned the difference between

port

is

also

a rabbet,

groove^ bead, 7nortise, tongue, tenon, dovetail, and miter,

used in making joints and splices, but there are several

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING other cuts which you should know.

7X

When

you read

about the Taper on a piece of work, you must understand this to

ma-

refer to a gradual decrease in the thickness of the terial,

forming a slanted surface or edge (Fig.

there

is

Then

86).

the

Bevel, a flat surface cut obliquely to its adjoining sur-

and a

faces (Fig. ^']\

Chamfer, three forms of which are 89,

and

The

90.

but the latter

is

<^^^'^/and the

shown

in

chamfer bevel

Figs.

2.\'t

^'^,

similar,

usually

used only on end grain for the

purpose of pre-

wood from splitting down when planing against it. Use a marking-gauge venting the

with which to lay out these cuts, and

make Fig. 86

and

bevel

the

the

chamfer bevel with a plane siop

or

chisel,

the

chamfer with a

Fig. 89.

— Tapered Surface. — Bevel. Figs. 88-90. — Three Forms of Chamfers. Fig. 86.

Fig. 87.

chisel or spoke-shave,

and the cham-

fer groove with a gouge.

Woodwork

is

usually fastened together by

means

gluCy pins^ dowels^ wedges, screws, nails, or bolts.

use of pins, dowels, and wedges has been discussed. best glue for

you

to use for

of

The The

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

72

Gluing up

Work

in bottles at the

is

the liquid glue such as you can buy

drug

store, or in

one half pint and larger

The can form

is

preferable to the bottle glue as the screw cover seals

it

cans at a hardware store or paint shop.

up tighter; but when the glue thickens,

easily

is

it

thinned by adding a few drops of vinegar and setting the

can or bottle for a few minutes in some boiling water.

Glue must be thin

shown

that

to

in Fig. 91

work

^^f)

Use a brush similar to with which to apply it.

fit

every part together and

well.

(page

Before gluing any work,

make

sure that no further trimming of the joints

sary

then wipe the portions to be glued with a cloth to

;

remove

all

is

neces-

sawdust, and apply the glue thoroughly, but not

too thick, to one part at a time.

been glued in

After the pieces have

place, unless the joints are mortise-and-

tenon joints or other joints which

will drive together, the

work must be held by haiidscrews

page

(Fig. 40,

29),

cabinet-makers clamps (Fig. 41), or home-made clamps (Fig.

42),

until the glue has

thoroughly

about a day's time should be allowed.

which has oozed out of

set,

for

which

All surplus glue

joints should be scraped off

and

the surface sandpapered clean and smooth before any finish

is

Screws

J

applied. will

hold work together better than

nails,

in

places where the latter cannot be clinched, and are to be

preferred wherever cipal

it is

possible to use them.

The

prin-

forms of wood-screws are the flat-head, the round-

head ox finishing- screw, and the square-head or lag-screw

ELEMENTARY MANUAL TRAINING The

last

form

being made

is

used for

rough work, the heads

large,

they

like bolt-heads so

73

may

be turned with a

wrench. In fastening together two pieces of hard wood, or very thin wood,

it is

necessary to

drill

holes for the screws be-

make

fore driving them, in the first case to easier,

and

in the

The

splitting.

the driving

second case to prevent the wood from

hole in the upper piece should be

made

a trifle larger than the diameter of the stem of the screw,

so the screw will slip through

it

without binding, while

the hole in the lower piece must of course be enough

smaller than the screw so the

wood and take

a

it

good

will

its

way

into

some cases it is the upper piece a good deal

hold.

necessary to bore the hole in

thread In

larger than the stem, as in the case of clcating (see Cleats,

page

In rough work, or in unexposed places, the

69).

screw-heads

may be driven

in flush

with the surface, but on

work the heads must be countersu^ik (driven below the surface) far enough so the heads may be concealed with putty and whatever finish is placed upon the particular

done with the countersink (Fig. 16, page 16), which bevels off the top edge of the screw hole enough to allow the head to drop below the Countersinking

wood.

surface.

Screws

soaped, that

is,

will

drive

into

hard wood easier

rubbed over a piece

threads are coated.

of

forced very hard.

off,

if

soap until the

This also prevents the possibility

slender screws twisting

when

is

which they are

likely to

of

do

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

74

Nails are

made

vanized), brass,

Of

and copper.

the brad and finishing-nail for drive

to

the

rough work,

for

work where

below

heads

gal-

these you will seldom

common wire nail

use others than the

sary

and

of wrought-iron, wire (bright

the

is

it

surface

necesof

the

wood, and in so doing to make as small a hole as | possible, and copper or galvajtized wire 7iails for boat building and other outside work where nails are exposed

:

to rust.

wood to prevent splitting, and it is necessary to do the same in hard wood to prevent the nails from bending. The holes must be a trifle smaller than the nails and may be made Holes should always be started

with a brad-awl (Fig.

i6,

page

in very thin

i6),

or a small

drill (Fig.

work but of the roughest kind, the nail-heads should be set low enough so they may be con-i 26,

page

23).

In

all

cealed with putty before the setting

is

done by means

Carriage -bolts are used

wood

is

finished.

of a nail-set (Fig. 16,

more or

page

The\ 16).

less frequently in car-

pentry with which to pivot one piece to another, or to hold several pieces together (generally in large work)

where they are or screws bolts in

likely to be subjected to a strain that nails

would not stand.

You

^ *

will use these as king-

making your bob-sleds (Chap. XVIII) and your

wagons (Chap. XXIV), and

for securing in

rowlock blocks of your boats (Chaps.

XXII

place

the

and XXIII).

{

\

J

m^a CHAPTER WOOD

The

work

finishing of

IV

FINISHING

is

equally as Important as the

constructive part because the final appearance of the

depends upon the care with which

article

Many

done.

a well-made piece of furniture has been ruined by

poor taste

in the selection of finish, or as a result of care-

lessness or inexperience on the part of the

man

is

it

applying

master the

stammg,

it.

With

common

amateur

practice, however,

forms

of finishes,

crafts-

any boy can

such as paintings

shellacking, waxing, varnislmtg,

and

oiling, so

as to be able to turn out a satisfactory job.

The kind

of finish to be selected for a piece of

depends, of course, upon the variety of

wood

nature of the article and the wear to which subjected.

and most as

much Paint

paints

of

work

used, the it

will

be

For your sleds, wagons, boats, club-houses, your home-made outdoor equipment, as well

of that

made

for indoors.

makes the most durable

may be

obtained In

finish.

Ready-mixed

various colors, and this

is

probably the most satisfactory way for a boy to purchase paint

if

he wants a large quantity, but for small work 75

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

76

where only a small amount best to

one color

of

buy the lead grou7id in

oil,

and thin down with turpentine the job paint may be bought

as

The balance

cans. soft

by pouring

the surface

this

;

much

as

is

form

may

it is

be poured

needed in

may

of the paint in the can

enough water or

in

required

of the color desired,

in this

;

is

i

for

-pound

be kept

linseed-oil to cover

again

off

when you

wish to use more paint.

As most of red

you boys probably know, the combination

of

and yellow makes orange, yellow and blue makes

makes purple, green and red makes brown, and black and white makes gray. Different shades

green, blue and red

may be

obtained by using a larger proportion of one or

the other color, and black and white will darken or lighten

By purchasing

the color.

Prussian you

will

blue,

Venetia7t red^ chrome-yellow^

lampblack, and white lead (or zinc-white)^

be able to mix up almost every shade of any

color you wish to use, but you will probably find in burnt

umber or burnt

the shade

sie^tna just

of

brown you

want, and in chrome-green or olive-green the right shade of green, in

which case

it

will

pay you

to

buy a can

of

each. In Mixing Paints,

mix up

be necessary to complete a

match a color will spoil the

exactly,

one time as much as

at

job, as

and a

it is

slight

will

usually difficult to

change

in the

shade

appearance of the work you are finishing.

Try the color upon

a piece of

wood

that of the article to be painted,

same kind as before you go ahead with of the

WOOD the painting, and allow

or not

it is

Brushes.

it

going to look

FINISHING

77

you can see whether

to dry so right.

Figure 91 shows a number

of

brushes which

generally answer every purpose of

will

The two

amateur.

the

large brushes will be needed for general paint-

ing, the

two sash-tools for small work and

corners,

and the smallest brush

Then

lettering.

there

is

for getting into

for striping, marking,

and

the medium-sized

varnish brush which must be used only for

varnishing and

shellacking,

brush mentioned

in

and the glue

Chapter

When

III.

you are through painting, staining, or nishing, tine,

or

wash out your brushes if

you expect

to use

var-

in turpen-

them

in

the

2'-

TlAT VARNISH -BRUSH

I- SaSm tool V2'-

Sash -TOOL

same material within a day or so you may ^ 4 MaSkinG-BRuSH place them in water, which will keep the ^D: GluE-BRUSh

paint from hardening without injuring the cz: mzzzD PuTTY-KNiFE

bristles

resting

To

if

the brushes are prevented from

upon the bottom

of the receptacle.

support the brushes, bore holes through

the handles in the proper places so that a piece of wire

and the wire

is

^^^^

Brushes and

^^"^'

"^ ^'

when run upon

laid across the

rim of

the can or other receptacle, the ends of the bristles will

not touch the bottom. In Painting wipe off your brush

paint can after dipping drip

it

upon the edge

into the paint, so

and spatter over everything.

thinly and always start at one end of a

it

of the

will not

Apply the paint surface and work

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

78

toward the other. wood,

If

there are any resinous knots in the

give them a coat of shellac to set the resin so

first

there will be no danger of after

it

it

oozing through the surface

The

has been painted.

first

coat

is

known

as the

priming coat. After it has dried, the work should be gone over carefully and all nail holes, and cracks and After other defects puttied up (see Puttying, page 84). puttying, sandpaper

all

rough places

(see

page 84) before applying a second will

be sufficient for

all

coat.

of white or

other coats will cover

it.

For the finishing

any

varnish).

it,

of furniture

and then apply wax or

Any

of the soft

work the

light color, as the

work, the modern method of treatment fill

coats j

In three-coat

priming coat may be

wood,

Two

ordinary work, but three coats

are better for particular work.

Staining.

Sandpapering,

and other nice is

to

stain the

2ijlat varnish (dull

woods and

hard woods take stain exceedingly well

a ;

number of oak is now

the fin-

way more generally than any other wood. The purpose of staining should be, not to imitate a more

ished in this

expensive wood, as

is

frequently done, but instead to

bring out the beauty of the grain, or at least to give

it

if it

has a decided grain,

a beautiful soft tone.

There are many prepared

upon the market which may be had at a small cost, and any paint store handling these will have a color card from which you may These stains are made select the color you wish to use. in water stains, which are dyes mixed in water, and oil stains

WOOD which

stains,

FINISHING

mixed

pigments

are

79

in

or

linseed-oil

spirits.

Water stains roughen the grain of wood, making

it

necessary to sandpaper the surface after an application has dried, but they have an advantage over the in the fact that they

the grain, the

of

bring out

oil stains

much

being

stains

oil

stronger the lines

less

transparent and

concealing, somewhat, the delicate lines and pores.

But

for the fine-grained woods, oil stains are easier to apply,

and produce better Oil

results.

Stains are easy to

his readers to

With

the

mix, and the author advises

do some experimenting along

colors

this

mentioned under Paint, any

standard shades of green, gray, and brown

may

line.

the

of

be made,

and with a stain manufacturer's sample color card

work from, you of

will

be able to get pretty close to any

the shades shown, although

different card,

when applied

on account

to

to the

they

will

look a

little

wood than they do on

of the difference in material.

the

Always

same kind of wood as your work is made of, upon which to try out a stain before deciding on it. The prepared stains are accompanied with full instructions for application. Before using your home-made stain, sandpaper the surface of your work thoroughly, use the

then apply the stain with a brush or piece of cloth, and rub

it

in vigorously with a piece of soft

cloth.

and

fill

muslin or cheese-

Allow the work to dry for a day, then go over it up all nail holes with putty colored with the stain;

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

8o

crumbs and apply a second coat

clean off the putty

The

the stain.

ment, but

over the to

oil,

be

left

without further

treat-

advisable to put a coat of white shellac

and when

produce a hard

this has dried to

wax

it,

in order

Unless you protect the sur-

finish.

become spotted, as the oil the stain never entirely dries, and rubs off. Some very pleasing effects upon oak have been ob-

face in in

is

it

may

surface

of

some such way,

will

it

tained by the author by applying the two coats of stain in

two

different colors, instead of

and putting them on produce a green

was of

rubbed

first

this a coat

of

well

a thin into

the

low and Prussian blue, can of a slight

The

it).

result

suggestion

The Draftmg

instance, to

coat of Venetian

red

on

top

grain,

then

chrome-green was applied (chrome-

may be made by mixing

green

For

one color.

as

finish,

mixing them together

if

together chrome-yel-

you do not wish

to

buy a

was a pretty green with

of a reddish

tinge

the

to

Table and Bench shown in

graph opposite page 86 were finished

in

the

this

just

grain.

photo-

way.

By

applying a thinner coat of the green than of the red,

and wiping

it

off a little

more, a pretty dark brown hav-

ing a tinge of red showing through

The

it

may

be obtained.

only difficulty an amateur will experience in put-

ting on a stain in

this

manner will be upon the work

in

using the

same amount of stain that he has used upon his sample, and in rubbing it down to the same tone but with a little experience he will be ;

able to obtain excellent results.

WOOD

FINISHING

8i

must be used for Shellacking stained woodwork, as the commoner kind White

shellac

— orange

—

shellac

will

alter

and probably ruin the work. white

shellac already prepared.

brush such as

shown

is

thick, dilute

it

must be thin enough

Start at

one end

is

better to

Use

buy the

the shellac

if

to flow freely over

surface

to

stain

a 2-inch varnish

and

Fig. 91,

in

the

of

It

the

of

alcohol just before using

with

is

it

tone

the

as

it,

the work.

be covered and

work toward the other end, using long, even strokes and being careful not to skip any places and not to go uncovered over the same part of the surface twice portions and laps will show through the finish and give it an uneven appearance. Shellac alone makes a splendid finish for articles made such as kitchen and pantry conveniences, of soft wood, ;

—

etc.,

— and

is

quickly put on.

The orange

better than the white for this purpose, as

wood

a richer tone.

chips and

You

it

shellac

is

gives the

can buy the orange shellac

them by placing them in a glass empty varnish can, and covering them

ctil (dissolve)

preserve-jar, or

wood alcohol. Dilute the much as is necessary to make with

ready to use

it.

Three coats

shellac with alcohol as it

thin,

when you

are

of shellac are sufficient for

Allow each coat to dry for at least a day before applying another, and sandpaper the surface after each coat has dried, to remove all rough-

an ordinary piece

ness.

After the

of

work.

final coat, instead of

sandpapering

it,

a

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

82

may be

better finish

obtained by rubbing the surface

with a piece of flannel, or other soft cloth, dipped in

-

powdered pumice-stone moistened with linseed-oil. Besides smoothing the surface, this rubbing cuts the gloss and produces an even, soft tone. All nail holes should be puttied up after the Filling ing, to

first

coat has dried.

necessary in preparing a surface for varnish- j out the grain and make a smooth, level surface,

is

fill

on wood having a coarse grain, such as oak.

especially

Factory furniture, finished in Flemish-oak, weathered-oak, or any of the other

modern

the staining has been done

;

filled

is

of the

after

but you will secure richer I

by omitting this from such work, as

effects

much

stain finishes,

it

conceals

beauty of the grain, especially in the open-

grained woods. Filling

Paste

The

is

best done by the amateur with a

Filler,

filler

I

which can be purchased

at

any paint

must be thinned with turpentine

sistency of

wood with

store.

to the con-

cream and then be spread evenly over the a brush or cloth, allowed to set for ten or

fif-

teen minutes, and then rubbed off across the grain so as to

fill

all of

the pores

piece of burlap.

;

The

do the rubbing with excelsior or a filler

must be allowed

about twelve hours before the shellacking

may

is

to

dry for

done.

Filler

be bought in the natural and colored to suit the

finish to

be applied to the wood, or

it

may

already prepared in the color of one of a

standard

wood

finishes.

be obtained

number

of

"

WOOD

FINISHING

Waxing gives a stained surface varnish, and is easier to apply. purchased

at a paint store.

It

a

83

much

richer tone than

Prepared wax can be

should be rubbed on with

a cloth, allowed to stand ten or fifteen minutes, and then

rubbed vigorously with a obtained.

Waxed

soft

surfaces

with water, for they

cloth

until

must not come

become spotted

will

if

a polish in

is

contact

they do and

require re waxing.

Varnishing

seldom

is

done

nowadays by amateur

craftsmen in finishing woodwork, but

it

is

necessary as

upon surfaces which are subjected to water, If the wood has an so a few pointers are given here. open grain, it must first be filled, then given a coat of Flow the varnish shellac to form a body for the varnish. over the surface with a varnish brush such as is shown a protection

crosswise of the grain and finish

in Fig. 91, then

brush

by brushing

lengthwise of the grain.

it

be sufficient for

duce a

all

finer finish.

to elapse

between

it

One

coat will

ordinary work, but two coats will proSeveral days' time should be allowed coats.

The

glossy surface

may be

cut by

Rubbing

it

down with

a soft cloth dipped in

pumice-stone wet with linseed-oil or water. face has been

cleaned

off, it

powdered

After the sur-

rubbed and the pumice-stone thoroughly

may be improved by

Polishing with rottenstone and linseed-oil, rubbed on

with a piece of cotton-flannel. In buying varnish

it

pays to get a good grade, as

its

1

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

84

make

better wearing qualities will

it

cheaper

in the

long

run than the low-priced varnishes, which are usually very unsatisfactory. Oiling the surface of a piece of

markings

and gives

of the grain

rich tone.

This

made out

of cigar

it

and wipe

for

medium

articles

Apply the

oil

vigorously with a soft

it

into the grain as

have occasion

will

four grades of sandpaper

and o

a beautiful

much

as

off the superfluous oil.

You

Sandpapering.

wood

boxes (see Chap. XI).

you have worked

will take,

to the

an especially good finish for

is

with a brush or rag, then rub cloth, until

work accentuates the

— No.i|-

to use

about

for coarse work, Nos.

J

work, and Nos. o and oo for fine work.

Nos. o and oo are of the proper degree of fineness for

sandpapering painted, stained, and shellacked surfaces.

To

avoid scratching a surface always sandpaper length-

wise of the grain.

For sandpapering

surfaces, the

flat

(On page

paper should be attached to a block of wood. of

"

The Boy Craftsman

" is

shown a

specially

1

formed

block for this purpose.) Puttying.

now

Putty can be purchased at the paint stores

one-pound cans,

in sealed

at

about

A small quantity will go a long way, and small

amount

at a time, as

it

air.

placing

can of water.

it

in a

Putty

Before using putty, knead into

it

the

oil

which

it is

best to

buy

a

hardens very quickly when

may be kept

exposed to the

five cents a can.

it

in

soft,

however, by

your hand to work back

rises to the surface,

and

if

the article

WOOD upon which

it

the stain into

ways best

is it

to be to

used

make

to putty after the

in painting,

and

FINISHING is

stained,

85

work enough

of the right color.

it

of

It is al-

priming coat has been applied,

after the first coat of stain has

been put

on, in oil staining, as the oil soaks into the holes

and

cracks and the putty sticks better as a result. Painters use a putty-knife (Fig. 91) with which to press

putty into the crevices

of

work, but you can use the

blade of your jack-knife for the purpose, or a fairly good

Home-made Putty-knife may be obtained by cutting off square the end of a five-cent potato knife. As a final word upon the subject of wood finishing, the author wishes to caution you boys to

Be Careful to

lie

of Oily

Rags and waste and not allow them

around, for they are

very likely to catch

through spo7itaneous combustion. of this

fire

Burn up everything

nature as soon as you are through with

it.

By

meant a mechanical representation of an object, either drawn accurately to measurements or laid out roughly with dimensions marked upon it, with which a mechanic can get to work and

make

a working-drawing

is

the entire object complete.

Sometimes, every part

work can be so shown upon a single sheet that no other word of explanation is required by the mechanic; again, on more complicated work, general working-drawings showing the main portions of the structure or machine must be prepared, and then all the minor parts taken up singly and worked out {detailed) on other sheets, forming what are known as detail drawings. In very complex work hundreds of these drawings are often necessary in order that the designer or draftsman may

of the

make

certain that

every part of the construction will

work out properly and that the workmen will understand his intentions, and in many kinds of work it is necessary to furnish in addition to all these details printed or type-

written instructions,

known

as specifications, to explain

the kinds, grades, and sizes of materials, and complicated 86

A Corner

of the Author's

Home Workroom.

(lor Working Drawings of the Table and Bench see Figs.

147

and

130.

Chapter VI.)

WORKING-DRAWINGS portions

87

which cannot be covered by notes upon the

drawings.

The average person

usually has difficulty in reading a

working-drawing, for the fact that he looks at

as

it

he

does a picture, expecting to see everything standing out in a

photographic form.

stands what

2^

plan

^

And

elevation,

until the

and

section are

To make

tinue to have this difficulty.

beginner under-

he

will con-

the explanation

as simple as possible, the working-drawings for a dog-

house are shown

in Fig. 92.

the floor of the house as

The plan shows

you would see

it if

a view of

you sawed

through the walls and removed the upper portion, and then could look

same time.

A

down

squarely upon every part at the

view looking down upon the roof

in the

same way would be a roofplan, and a top view of any object is also known as 2i plan. A view of the front of the dog-house, which you would see if you could look squarely at

every portion of the front at the same time,

front is

elevatio7i,

and the same kind

called a side elevation, while

necessary to show special work

if

it

of a

is

called a

view of the side

a rear view had been

would be known

as a

rear elevation, and in case there were two side elevations they would be

named

to distinguish

one from the other, or

left elevation

and right elevation in the case of a

building or any stationary work the elevations would be

designated by the points of the compass. By sawing the dog-house in two, crosswise, from the peak down

through the base, removing the front portion and then

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

S8

you would see a sectional view the house, and a true drawing showing this view would

looking toward the of

rear,

be called a section (see Fig.

92).

A

may

section

be

taken through an object either horizontally or vertically (a plan

taken through an object

section), ject is

in reality a horizontal

is

and a section through the short way

known

of

and one through the

as a cross-section^

long way as a longiiudiiial section.

A perspective draw-

ing shows the object as you would actually see

viewing

it

from one

point,

which

an ob-

is

the view a camera would show.

it

when

more or

less similar to

In this

drawing the

horizontal lines converge (approach one another) as they

recede from the eye, which produces the same effect that is

obtained

when looking down

a railroad track

— the

coming together of telegraph wires and tracks at a point on the horizon. A perspective of the dog-house is shown in Fig. 495, page 390. Working-drawings are made to different Scales, determined largely by the size and construction of the work. size,

A

very small object

while a building or a large

may be piece

detailed fullof

machinery

would be shown at a small scale with \ inch or \ inch upon the drawing representing 12 inches on the object to be constructed,

and different portions which are more

or less complicated would be redrawn at a larger scale to

make them

(Fig. 92)

that

is,

clear.

The drawings

were made to a scale

of

the dog-house

of i^ inches to the foot;

\\ inches on the drawing represents 12 inches

©„ Trimming Line-

1

1

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

90

of the dog-house.

from

this size in

They have been reduced considerably order to show them upon the page, but indicates the original size to

top

the ruler across the

which they were drawn. reduced to odd scale placed

ings \*-o"

=

Maps and

printed drawings

this case,

have a graduated

sizes, as in

upon them, but the

scale of working-draw-

usually expressed in this form:

is

{full size)

\

Scale

6"=

\'-o"

Scale

{half size)

12"

=

Scale 3"

\

Scale I" = I'-o"; Scale y' = i-o\ etc. The stands for inch or inches and the mark iox foot

i-o'\

mark

''

'

ox feet.

Every boy should be able drawings

in order that

for furniture,

to

he may work out

wagons, boats,

own workinghis own designs

prepare his

kites,

aeroplanes,

etc.,

no important work should be attempted before been carefully drawn out upon paper,

for, as

the

it

and has

maxim

goes,

"Working without a plan

and work so constructed in the

is

is

sailing without a

bound

to

show

defects either

design or in the misfitting of parts.

ture described in the following chapter tailed

compass,"

and

will give

you a good idea

should be laid out, but

many

of

is

The

furni-

completely de-

how such work

of the other articles de-

book are illustrated only by sketches or perspective drawings, and before making these you should prepare drawings showing the work as you have scribed in this

determined to make

A

it.

Drawing Outfit does not need to be an expensive

WORKING-DRAWINGS one, but as in the purchase of in the

end

any kind

buy only the best

to

91

of tools

of materials

;

it

pays

these are

usually to be found in the medium-priced equipment.

A

may

Drawing-board

be

made by

several boards as described on

cleating

page 70 and

together

illustrated in

you can buy one so cheaply that it hardly The board must be absolutely to make one.

Fig. 85, but

pays to try

upon the seasoned and true

left-hand edge,

and the wood must be

well-

from

free

winding, knots diXid other

which points are

defects,

taken

care

you

boards

good ings

in

the

buy.

A

of

size for small is

a student's board,

16

size

draw-

by 22

inches

The

inches (Fig. 93).

board

may be

—

Fig. 93. A Student's Drawing-board (size 16" X 22") and T-square and Triangles.

placed

upon your desk while you work, or you may make A Drafting Table such as is shown opposite page 86, if

you wish.

top, if

This table has a large drawing-board for a

but an ordinary table top

may

you have a small drawing-board

be constructed instead

to use

on

it.

Working-

drawings for the construction of the table are given

in

Fig. 147, page 132.

A

T-square

is

ing horizontal oblique lines.

used as a guide for the pencil in draw-

and a guide for the triangles for The crosspiece upon the end slides along lines,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

92

edge of the drawing-board and

the

left

left

hand.

the

A Triangle

45-degree lines at

moved with

is

required

is

drawing

for

oblique

an angle of 45 degrees, and a 60-degree Triangle for draw-

ing oblique lines at angles of

60 and 30 degrees (Fig. "

With

93).

the addition of a ruler,

a couple of pencils, an eraser,

and Compasses, a boy will

have

as large an outfit as he probably B

will

Fig. Fig. 04. FiG. Q7. ^ ^

Fig. 94.

—A

Fig. 96.

oi;.

Cheap Pencil-com-

pass.

F1G.95.

— Compass with Pen, Pen-

and Divider Points. Fig. 96. -Ruling-pen. Fig. 97. Chisel-shaped and Pointed Pencil Ends. cil,

—

mgs

A

r

making draw-

1

.

^hich

... but

will

rr

such aS

you

serve the purpose, i

you Can afford a pair

if

for a greater variety of work. latter pair,

require for

i-* tor shop r'iQ:ure 04 ^ use. ^ shows a cheap pencil-compass •

'n

will

is i

shown

be

i

in

Fig. 95, •

--

better

In the illustration of the

represents the body of the compass,

needle point

which

point which

fits

fits

into one leg,

and

into the other leg, while

divider points which

may

C

D

drawing

in ink,

is

and

either leg of the

B

the

the pencil

and

E are

be substituted in place of the

needle and pencil points to form a pair of dividers, the pen point which

i

equipped

F\%

used in place of the pencil point for J

G

is

the extension bar with which

compass or divider may be extended.

WORKING-DRAWINGS Swing the compass with one hand, For drawing ink Ruling-pen

The

lines other

as

93

shown

than arcs of

in Fig. 98.

circles, a

necessary (Fig. 96).

is

ruling-pen must be held in a per-

pendicular position, with the ends of

upon the T-square

the fingers resting as

shown

in Fig. 99, so they will slide

along the T-square ness of the lines

is

easily.

The

thick-

governed by turning

the screw upon the pen, which draws to-

gether or spreads apart the two blades.

The

ink

Fig.

9S.

— How

to

swing a Compass.

is

dropped between the blades by

upon the end

means

of the quill

of the

cork furnished with the

bottles 102).

of

drawing ink (Fig.

Figure 100 shows

A Set of Instruments which, in Fig. 99.

— How to

hold a Ruling

pencil.

C, extension bar

addition to the

compass^, com-

pass adjusting key B, pen point

D, and ruling-pen

E, has a pair of dividers F, a small sized ruling-pen G, a small pair of

dividers

H

{bow-dividers), a small

pencil-compass

/

small pen-compass a box

of leads

{bow- pencil)^ a

J {bow-peft), and

K.

A

moderate

Fig. 100.

— a students' Set

^^^^^^^§ instruments.

priced set of these instruments will cost about $6.50.

of

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

94

For laying

measurements, an ordinary

off

2-inch Ruler (Fig. 92) will do, but at a slight addi-

1

tional cost a specially prepared

may be

Scale

making

in

like

a

scale drawings.

while others

ruler,

shown

One of these is a time saver Some scales are made flat

purchased.

are

Upon

in Fig. loi.

triangular in shape as

the triangular scales eleven

sets of graduations are provided

—

12'' (full size),

3'',

i^'\

F' and 3V'. In the illustration the and J'' graduations are shown along one edge and 3" and i^" divisions along the other. Each end division I"'

-r>

¥^ I" r>

A"

f

j

^^m-T

^

^

\^

»

\^

^

*

\

\

-^^

^-

\

Fig. ioi.

\

-^

'^^

\.

\

'^'

\

four

^'

\

'^-

\

^'

\

•^'

VV^ V '^^'\^

twelve parts, each of which

for that particular scale represents

made with

\

— A Triangular Scale.

of these is also divided into

are

'^'

i

inch.

Flat scales

or eight different kinds of divi-

sions according to whether one side or both sides are

graduated.

Drawing Pencils are made by

letters,

6B, which

in various grades designated

ranging from 9H, which is

very

soft.

A 6H

machine drawing, while a

3H

drawing.

If

in architectural

pencils, get a

No. 4 or No.

drawing pencils) 2

for

5

I

pencil is

very hard, is

down

to

usually used in

about the hardest used

you wish to use ordinary (equivalent to

2H

and

3H

drawing upon hard paper, a No.

(equivalent to a B) for a

No.

is

medium

soft pencil,

(equivalent to a 3B) for a very soft pencil.

and a

For

WORKING-DRAWINGS drawing straight

lines,

chisel-shape {A, Fig. 97),

upon a piece

a pencil

should be sharpened

which may be done by rubbing

No. 00 sandpaper, and

of

drawing curved

lines

it

95

for lettering

it

and

should be rubbed to a point {B,

For ordinary

Fig. 97).

lettering in ink, Gillott's

Nos. 303 and 170 Pens are most

satis-

No. 659

factory, while a

should be used for very

work.

fine

Drawing .

11

Spe-

Ink.

ITT India

—

Drawing-ink Bottle with Cardboard Collar to prevent Upsetting;.

^^^- ^°--

prepared

cially

ink (Higgins' Waterproof India Ink

is

almost universally

used) should be bought for use in preparing ink drawings.

This comes

the end of (Fig.

102).

in

small bottles with a quill upon

the cork with which to

Drawing inks may

An Ink

fill

the

ruling-pen

also be

had

in

colors.

Eraser and a Pencil Eraser

are also required, and an

Erasing Shield (Fig. 103)

is

convenience as a protection Fig. 103.

— Erasing

Shield.

may be lines will

lines close to those erase, as

a great to

the

which you wish

to

an opening of the proper size

placed over that portion, and the surrounding

be covered.

One

of these shields

can easily be

prepared out of a piece of thin brass.

About the most unfortunate thing which

a

young

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

96

draftsman experiences

on a drawing

upon

it.

after

This

the bottle

is

frequently

when

is

the upsetting of his ink-bottle

is

working perhaps three or four days certain to happen sooner or later, if

set without a holder

the boy

is

upon the

and

table,

Figure 102 shows

careless.

a simple protection, consisting of a cardboard collar cut to

fit

over the neck of the bottle and of a laree enough

diameter to

make

it

impos-

sible to upset the ink.

A Home-made and

such

Inkstand

shown

in

Fig.

convenient.

off Fig. 104.

— Cigar-box

Pencil

the top of the cork

Box and

when

box

the

to hold

104

as is

is

very

made out One corner

It is

of a cigar box.

of

Box

Pencil

is

partitioned

the ink-bottle,

and the cover has a hole cut through it so it will fit over

closed.

The box

will serve the

purpose of a receptacle not only for pencils, but for your pens, thumb-tacks, erasers, and erasing shield as well.

You may use small -ounce flat-head tacks for holding down drawing-paper, but these are not as easily removed i

as regular

Thumb-tacks,

the

best form of

which

is

shown

in

Fig- 93.

Drawing-paper specially prepared for pencil or ink

be purchased in sheets or

rolls.

For

common

use,

may how-

i

WORKING-DRAWINGS

97

Manila wrapping paper

ever, butchers'

serve the

will

purpose, and the back of smooth medium-weight wall-

paper has a good surface.

Out-of-date

stock of wall-

paper can be purchased for a few cents a chief trouble with the

up when erased, but

common

paper

this will not

is

that

The

roll.

roughens

it

be a serious objection for

your shop drawings, and when you wish to prepare better

may copy them upon

appearing drawings, you

better

paper.

The

white-lined drawings which you have seen

known

blue paper are

as

Blueprints and are printed the

same way that

a

upon

paper

sensitized

photograph blueprint

The

a plate or film.

upon

is

negative in this case

in

made from is

prepared

upon which

Tracing-cloth,

a linen specially prepared so as

is

to be very transparent, or

Tracing-paper,

cloth or paper

everything

is

is

which tacked

is

The

a very transparent paper.

down over

traced off upon

upon the drawing below. dull side, the

upon

it

The

former the right

the drawing, and then

with ink exactly as cloth has a glazed

side,

it

is

and a

but the latter the one

generally preferred by draftsmen as the better working surface. is

To make

the ink flow smoothly, talcum powder

dusted upon the cloth and rubbed over

to cut

any

oil

it

which may have collected upon the surface.

Ink lines erase very easily from the cloth, and lines

and

with a rag

dirt

may be

all

pencil

cleaned off after the tracing has

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

98

been finished by wiping with a rag wet use water, for

it

in

benzine (do not

on the

cloth),

of the cloth for ink tracings

almost

will ruin the finish surface

which makes the use

Trac-

universal.

ing-paper

used,

is

generally, for I making pencil copies ings,

draw-

of

and

for

mak-

ing one drawing

another

over when Fig. io6.

same

the

measurements are to be used in both,

as will

explained

be

later.

After a tracing

been pre-

has

pared in

105-107.— Details of Home-made Blueprint ^^^"^^*

of blueprint paper

exposed and washed

picCC glass

placed over

is

the

placed

printing-

frame upon

FiG. 105. Figs.

it is

in the

it,

of

a

clear

and a piece

then the paper

is

same way that an ordinary

you own a photograph printingframe, you can make your drawings to a small enough blueprint

scale to

is

made.

fit it,

but

If

it is

a simple matter to construct

\

;

WORKING-DRAWINGS

A Home-made in Fig. 105.

or a similar

A good scheme is shown

Printing-frame.

may

99

made out of frame can be made with the This

be

a picture-frame,

corners mitered

and a rabbet formed on the inside by tacking narrow strips to the frame strips, as shown in Fig. 107. The

wooden back must be provided with a spring attachment to make an equal pressure upon all parts, so there will be perfect contact between the paper and tracing at all points

Make

(Fig. 106).

piece

end

possible,

if

to

keep

C

cut strip

and

back out

and fasten a

cleat across

(A and B,

from warping

it

it

near each

Fig. 106), then

proper length to reach from

of the

one

of i-inch stuff, in

A

to

B

D

to

reach from side to side of the frame.

C and

D

together at their centers, boring a hole

strip

Screw

this

through

D for the screw to

run through so this strip

Cto

turn easily, and screw the ends of

^ and B.

will

Fasten

upon each side of the strip I? enough so they

a metal sash-lift in the proper place

frame, and bevel off the ends of

The

under them.

will slip

strips

proper thickness so that strip I? the shape of a

bow

to slip its

this places a pressure

strips

A

upon

and B, and the

of the frame.

must be cut

will

have

ends under the

strip C,

which

latter distribute

The back

of the

smoothed out

wrinkles.

A

it

be bent in sash-lifts

transfers

it

to

over the back

frame should be covered

with a piece of thin cotton-flannel place and

to

to the

;

this

carefully so

must be glued

in

there will be no

cheaper grade of paper than that used for

photographic work

is

manufactured for blueprinting, and

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

loo

this

can be purchased in

Use a small piece

put up in sealed tubes.

rolls

paper to make a test print upon, to

of

determine the proper length of time for exposure. Preparing Working-drawings.

Before laying out a set of

working-drawings, the general plan of the piece of work

must be sketched out, and the various dimensions and All this the method of construction determined upon. preliminary work may be done very roughly.

The

first

part to lay out

and sections.

It is

is

the plan, then the elevations

work out a secthe same time, as in the

often necessary to

tion before the elevations, or at

case of a house where the heights of the exterior features are determined

by the wall and

By

floor construction.

shown in Fig. 92, the lines of the plan may be continued down (^projected) for the cross-secplacing the drawings as

tion,

and the heights maybe projected horizontally

left for

the front elevation and to the right for the side ele-

vation, while the corner spaces

drawings. of the

to the

may

be

filled

with detail

In the details of the dog-house, the side lines

ends were projected up from the front elevation, and

those of the sides w^ere carried up from the side elevation.

Although there are many other schemes set of drawings, this is to use in

about the simplest method for you

your work, which

more complicated work in the

for laying out a

it

will is

be more or less simple.

In

general practice, especially

planning of buildings, to place a piece of

trac-

ing-paper over the plan after that has been laid out, and to lay out the section

upon

this,

then to place another

i

;

WORKING-DRAWINGS

loi

piece of tracing-paper over the section and lay out a front

upon

elevation

makes

it

The

this.

transparency of the paper

possible for the draftsman to see through the

sheets and, without having to lay out the

the heights again, to

mark them

just as they are located

off

main widths and upon the top sheet

upon the plan and section sheets

After the front elevation has been laid out, one

below.

of the side elevations is

prepared in the same way, from

the plan and either the front elevation or section

;

opposite side elevation and the rear elevation are

made

the

by reversing the side elevation and front elevation sheets and tracing

off the

similar portions

and changing the

rest to suit the plan.

Lay out your drawings with check up your measurements, and right,

a light line if

go over the work and make

first,

then

everything appears, all

all

the outlijies heavy.

Cross-hatch (shade with diagonal lines placed at equal distances apart)

all

portions of the plan and section which

are " cut through," in order to

and which

in elevation,

show which

is

in section

and change the direction

of the

cross-hatching upon adjoining pieces to accent the point

where one piece ends and another begins.

After the draw-

ing has been completed.

Draw

upon the plan, section, elevations, and details wherever measurements are necessary (these should be broken lines and be lighter than the outlines) then fill in the dimensions in feet and inches. Besides the heavy and light full lines, and the broken Dimension-lines

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

I02

dimension-lines, you will have occasion to use

dash

and

line for center-lines

92),

dot-and-

upon the plan

to indicate

where sections have been made (Fig.

2i

and the dotted

upon plan, sections, elevations, and details the work concealed and that which is above or upon the opposite side (see Furniture Working-drawings, Chap. line to indicate

show where material

VI), and to

(see Fig. 262,

is

to be cut or folded

page 194).

Always leave a space

in

one corner of the sheet,

preferably the upper or lower right-hand corner, in which to

Letter the Title of your Drawing, your 7iame, the scale of the drawing,

(Fig. 92).

and the date upon which

may Draw

This lettering

drawing by heavy

lines.

it

is

finished

be separated from the

Marginal Lines around the outside of the drawing, and leave a margin of about of this line.

\ inch upon the sheet outside

Plain

Gothic Letters look best well made.

Always

between which to

rule

letter,

for

two

titles

and notes, when

light horizontal guide-lines

so that

it

will

be easy to keep

the tops and bottoms of the letters on a line, and

if

making vertical lines, you may use a angle with which to straighten them. have trouble

in

you tri-

If

you have carried out the exercises

chapters and studied carefully

all

of the

preceding

instructions, there

is

no reason why you should not be prepared to undertake

some simple cabinet making.

This work

better test of your skill as a craftsman than

be a

will

would any

other kind of carpentry. If I

am

not mistaken, what you boys want to

make

in

furniture are things which will be of practical use for

your

own room and

for other parts of the house,

things which will be suitable to give articles described

selected

with

away and

to sell.

and

The

upon the following pages have been

these points

in

mind.

After you have

turned out a few well-made pieces so you will have some

good samples

to show,

you should have no

securing enough orders relatives, to

enable you

business, especially a

when

at fairs,

to

and from friends and

work up a

month or

difficulty in

profitable

little

so before the holidays,

much in demand. Many boys are earning money in this way. The frontispiece shows the factory of " The Juvenile Manupractical gifts are

103

— HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

I04

Company," an organization of six energetic boys of Dayton, Ohio Masters Charles Deeds, Pres. and Gen. Mgr., Fulton Davisson, Jr., Vice Pres. and Supt, Robert Canby, Secy., Charles Whidden, Treas., and Stanley Raugh and Evan Whidden. These boys are doing a flourishing business, and from the excellent work they are turning out it is no wonder that they are facturing

—

succeeding so

The

well.

firm has issued an attractive

catalogue of 8 pages containing illustrations of their line of goods, a

group photograph

of Directors,

which boys,

an exterior view

up

is fitted

in a

— and two views

of the oflicers of the oflice

and Board

and

factory,

playhouse belonging to one of the of

completed orders loaded on

to

automobiles ready for local delivery and shipment to out-

The

of-town customers. following

:

—

" The plant

and

all

is

catalogue states, in part, the

running Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays after school,

day Saturdays.

Visitors are

welcome on Saturdays.

" Only the best materials are used, and no cheap laborers are em-

ployed *'

;

the officers and Board of Directors

The purchaser more value

getting

of any article produced by this

"

men Our

is

is

not only

money paid than he could get at any store, encouraging a Company of energetic little busi-

is

to get a training

business

Company

for the

but at the same time ness

do the work themselves.

which

is

most

practical.

meeting with great success.

We

are always behind

Our customers are our best advertisers because we them more for their money than they can get anywhere else."

with our orders. give

You

will

what these

have to hustle some, boys, to accomplish lads have, but there

is

no reason why you

Fig.

Fig. 110.

111.

o^

f1tW^'

~'-~-:^A

Fig. 108.

Fig. 113.

Fig. 109.

Fig. 112.

Fig. 108.

Fig. 109. Figs. 110

Figs. 113,

Whisk-Broom Holder. Clock-Shelf. Necktie-Racks. 111. Book-Racks. 113 and 114.

and

MADE FURNITURE

EASILY

105

cannot make a success of a similar enterprise in your

you know of a number of fellows who would be good workers and would have enough stick-toit-iveness in them to keep up an interest in the work. The articles shown opposite page 104 are especially good material for the beginner to start upon on account

own home town

if

of the simplicity of their construction.

There are a number of varieties of wood well adapted to amateur furniture making, and these are mentioned in Chapter III, while the matter of Choice of Material.

Chapter IV.

finish is discussed in

A a

Whisk-broom Holder such as

handy

of l^-inch stuff

parts

different

(Fig. 115).

back piece of

wood

(which

is

cut as

It

in Fig.

108

is

should be made out

| inch thick dressed) with the

shown

in

In order to get the alike, first

shown

draw a

the working-drawings

two side edges

center-line

of the

upon the piece

as shown, then lay off the dimensions each side

Draw

of this. it

bedroom.

article for a

is

the curve

upon the other

center-line, tracing

upon one

side,

side at an equal it

get the curves alike.

then reproduce

distance from the

off with a piece of tracing-paper to

Lay

off the tapered

edges

of the

same way. pieces prepared, nail them

front piece each side of a center-line in the

With

the front, back, and side

together with

i-inch

sandpaper, putty, and

A

Clock-shelf

which

is

is

brads, set

the

brad-heads,

then

finish.

a neat

gift,

easily constructed.

and Fig. 109 shows one

Make

this out of

i-inch

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

io6

After cutting the top and

stuff (J|- inch thick dressed). two brackets as shown in Fig.

1

16,

bevel the upper front

and the two diagonal j gauging the width and

of the top piece

and end edges

edges of each bracket piece,

Cer-j-reR-LiN/e--.^

FiG.

117.

— Detail

of Back of Necktie in Fig.

Rack showa

no. 8-

-4.

Fig. 115.

— Whisk-

broom

Holder

shown,

in Fig. 108.

r Fig. 118.

— Detail of

Back of Towel-rack shown

in

Fig. III.

TT

-^:...

....T-R

1+ ii. 8-

\^2'-j

FiG. 116.

depth

lA

— Details of Clock-shelf shown in Fig.

of the bevels

page 71 (see Bevel),

i

109.

and cutting them as described on Fasten the brackets to the top

piece with i^-inch finishing-nails in the positions indi-

cated by dotted lines in the drawing.

In the back view

EASILY

MADE FURNITURE

completed shelf (Fig. 109)

of the

fastening

under side

A

to a wall.

it

is

screw-eye

shown the method is

slip

of

screwed into the

of the shelf top, just inside of

and these eyes

107

each bracket,

over a couple of nails or screws driven

into the wall in corresponding positions.

The Necktie Rack shown of ^-inch stuff (see

in Fifi-

working-drawing

for

back

in Fig.

screwed into

seven brass screw-hooks

with

10 has a back cut out

1

it

1

17)

two

in

Scribe two pencil lines across the center of the

rows.

board about

inch apart, then starting at the center of

i

mark the

the length of the board,

location of the center

each side of this locate the other hooks

hook, and

inches apart, alternating

Fasten two screw-eyes

them on the two

in

lines as

2

shown.

the top of the board, one at

each end, by means of which to hang the rack upon the wall.

In Fig.

1 1 1

is

shown

a rack which

may

be used either

for a necktie rack or

A

Cut the back board out of l-inch out according to the working-drawing (Fig.

Towel-rack.

laying

it

stuff, 1

18),

and procure a short brass extension curtain-rod for the

The

front.

rod will be furnished with screw-hooks with

which to fasten

it

to the

in so the rod will set

i

board

;

these should be screwed

inch away for a necktie rack or 3

inches away for a towel-rack.

Book-racks of three forms have been designed, for they are so to

commonly used upon

keep

in order the

books

the library table of the in

immediate

home

use, that

you

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

io8 will

probably wish to

rack shown in Fig.

make more than one

1 1

the base piece

2

each end for the end pieces to

fit

1

of the base pieces to

mortises

fit

3

In the

grooved near 119), while in

in (Fig.

tenons are cut on the ends

the rack show^n in Fig.

1

is

kind.

and these tenons are held

made

in the

place by

in

end

means

pieces,

of pins

The

driven into holes bored through them (Fig. 120). latter rack possesses

one advantage over the former, and

that Hes in the fact that

any time and

its

compact form.

its

pins

may be withdrawn

pieces pulled apart and put

To

away

in a

prevent sphtting, do the cutting of

the grooves and mortises in the

members

of the racks

before trimming off their ends, so there will be as

wood

at

much

as possible outside of the portions cut.

(For mak-

ing mortise-and-tenon joints, see page 61.)

After the

racks have been put together and finished, glue strips of felt to

the bottoms to prevent

surface

upon which they

them from scratching any

stand.

An Extension Book-rack is a little more complicated to make than the above two, but the work is not difificult. The rack shown in Fig. 114 is 16 inches long between the ends when pushed together and 28^ inches long when extended. Figure 121 shows the details for this rack. The base is made out of a i-by-4-inch tonguedand-grooved board, a piece about 3 feet long being quired, while the

end pieces are cut out

of

re-

i-inch stock.

The

idea of using the tongued-and-grooved board for the

base

is

that the tongues

and grooves

for the slides are

•

Center

Line INE

K

2" i

2."-A

^^''^'

Section-through base

^IW

ijtit'fh

T PLAN OF BASE

-ICM

1 16"-

FlG. 119.

— Details of Book-rack shown

in Fig. 112.

-16"

r't 5'MOLe FOR

Pi

Bevel-'

-It

PLAN OF BASE /

-MORTJijti)

V

I

If

fa

i'^.EBl' "I'D

Fig. 120.

— Details of Book-rack shown in Fig. t<

r^f'-j^ ^l'^

h

-^1

113.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

no

already made, and you will be saved the trouble of cut-

A

ting them.

The tongue on

pieces, Fig.

121), with the exception of a 2-inch piece

is left

on piece

and

groove

to slide in the

B is

left for

B may be

in piece

(see plan of base

D, while the groove

D

the tongue on

A

to slide in.

ripped from opposite edges of the tongued-

and-grooved board. width of

piece

Piece

D (without

C should

be cut to the exact

tongue or groove), while

strip

E

should be equal in length to the combined widths of A^

B, and D.

After the base pieces and the two end pieces

have been prepared,

B to

the ends of

nail

C and

one end

of base pieces

A

and

the opposite end to the upper

face of piece E.

The ends

of the rack

may

ends of the base pieces, but place, as the

ends

may

be nailed directly to the

it is

better to hinge

be folded

doing, and the rack packed

away

flat

at

them

in

any time by so

Buy

in a small space.

two pairs of f-inch by i-inch brass hinges, and hinge one end to piece C and the other end to piece D, notching the ends of

C and

D just enough

The drawings show

to receive the hinges.

Strip

the locations for the hinges.

prevents the ends of

A and B from

springing apart.

E To

prevent the rack from pulling apart lengthwise, drive a small nail into the under side of piece D, as sectional drawing, so strips of felt to the

it

shown

in the

E.

Glue

will strike against strip

bottoms

of the

Of the medium-sized pieces

end pieces and

strip

E,

of furniture,

Tabourets and Plant Stands are probably most In de-

Fig. 122.

Fig. 124.

Fig. 125. Fig. 123.

Figs. 122

Fig. 124.

Fig. 125.

and 123, Tabourets. Plant Stand. Footstool.

I

MADE FURNITURE

EASILY

mand,

for the living-room or library

is

iii

not complete now-

adays without one or two of these to hold fancy vases, jardiniers, fern dishes,

limit to the

for them,

number

but you

and potted

There

no

is

which could be devised

of shapes

will

plants.

probably find the three designs

shown opposite page no of varied enough character make the construction of one of each worth while.

to

In

presenting the working-drawings for the tabourets and plant stands, as well as those for the other pieces of furniture of an equal or a larger size,

A

sions of each part of

showing the exact finished dimenthe work, and the number of pieces

of like size required,

has been placed alongside or above

List of Material

the details.

amount

These

lists will

help you in figuring up the

of material necessary for each piece of work, but

they are not in proper shape to take to the mill or lumber yard from which to order, for

it

will

be cheaper to com-

bine pieces which can be cut out of boards of stock widths

and lengths and do the sawing what

articles

you wish

to construct,

matter to estimate exactly

Of

After deciding

yourself. it

how much

is

a very simple

material you will

enough additional length and width over the finished dimension must be allowed on each piece for the waste produced in sawing and truing up. require.

course,

In preparing the top for

The Tabouret shown

in Fig. 122 (Fig. 126), first plane

up the piece to the proper dimensions, then mark the triangular pieces

which are

to

off

be removed from the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

112

corners and saw them the

carefully,

legs

will

Bevel the edges of the

The

exactly

right.

±

shown, with a

chisel.

I

corners

the

fit

work has been done

the

If

off.

legs, as

diagonal leg braces, or stretchers, are halved at

their centers (see Halved-joint,

page

Wnfen these

60).

them across the top piece in the position indicated by dotted lines on the plan, to see that the ends come even with, and at right have been joined

angles

to,

together,

lay

Then procure No.

the corners.

9,

round-head,

blued finishing-screws, if inches long, and screw the pieces together as shown (see Screws, page 72). After making a tabouret or any other piece of furniture. If

you

find the

Legs rest unevenly upon the

simple matter to correct the

and put a chip under of

wood

of just

it

it is

a \

Locate the short leg

fault.

to block

floor,

it

up, then cut a block

.

the right thickness to slip under this 1

short leg, and, with,

it

as a gauge, sUde

it

around the

four sides of each of the long legs, and scribe a knife line across It is

each side on a line with the top

of the block.

then a simple matter to finish off the legs to these

lines.

The Tabouret shown

work than

in

Fig. 123 requires a

little

that in Fig. 122, as the panel pieces

127) are tenoned into the rails

A

more \

C (Fig.

and B, and the ends

the rails are tenoned into the legs; but mortising

simple operation once mortise-and-tenon

is

it

one

is

of

a

has been mastered, and the of

the most

commonly used

•Ill

^

List of

mate"

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

114

and one

joints

methods

of the strongest of the

of joining

cabinet-maker's

The

together work.

operation of

mortising and the preparation of the tenons

The

scribed on pages 61-65. pieces

inch

is

tion of

fully de-

mortises for the ends of

C

need not be more than \ inch deep, while \ and B. See descripsufficient for the ends of

A

Bench on page

tenoned work. of

is

1

1

assembling mortised-and-

7 for

Secure the top piece to the legs by means

round-head screws such as are specified for the other

tabouret.

The Plant Stand

more or furniture.

less

illustrated

along the lines

by Fig. 124 is designed of the much-used mission

For the working-drawings see Fig.

The

128.

preparation of the mortises and tenons for the connection of the stretcher to the

end pieces

will

be easy,

if

you have

carried out the exercises suggested in Chapter II L

mortises are slightly ujtderctct on the outer end to

them correspond with the taper on the -jlg

pins,

The make

and are cut

inch inside of the line of the side pieces, as you will

see by looking at the dimensions on the stretcher, so

that the pins will drive the end pieces tight against the

shoulders of the stretcher.

A

Footstool, with a shelf

magazines may be for a

den or

simple lines ings for this

piled,

library.

below on which the current

makes

An

handy piece

of furniture

attractive design for one along

shown in Fig. are shown in Fig. is

top, the shelf,

a

and the end

125.

The working-draw-

129.

After preparing the

pieces, fasten the shelf

and

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

ii6

ends together by means of the pins, then secure the top

between the ends with round-head screws. quarter-round

upper side

A

strip of

small molding) should be nailed to the

(a

of the top

along each side edge, as shown in

the cross-section, for a

ground

to hold out the sides of

the upholstering, and a narrow strip should be nailed to

each end piece ^ inch below the top for a ground to tack the upholstering cover to. Upholstering Material can be purchased at almost any

You

dry-goods store.

will require

some

hair for

filling,

cheese-cloth or light-weight muslin for covering the hair,

2-ounce cut tacks for fastening the cloth, leather, imitation leather, or

heavy denim for the top covering, and large-

match the top material. Perhaps you can get some hair from an old pillow or mattress, and your mother probably can furnish you with the head tacks covered

to

Leather

cloth covering.

is

rather expensive, about $3 a

yard, while the imitation leather can be purchased for

about $1.25 a yard

The

cents a yard. leather use.

and

is

(i

yard wide), and denim

imitation leather wears better than real

probably the most satisfactory material to

Tacks with

large heads,

match leather or imitation from 3 to 5 cents a dozen. To upholster the top of the cloth

side

and

over

it

made

leather,

of a

composition to

can be bought for

of the Footstool, first lay a piece

and tack

it

to the

ground along one

grounds along the ends, thus forming a which to stuff the hair. The cloth must be

to the

pocket in

will cost 15

;

MADE FURNITURE

EASILY loose

enough

117

to allow for sufficient packing,

may be

but as

it

will

Pack the hair into the farther side and the two ends, first, and use a small stick with which to push it into the right The work is not difficult, but it must be done places. carefully, and all hollows must be filled out as you go stretch considerably

make

along in order to near side

and tack

is filled,

to

it

it

pulled fairly tight.

When

a nicely shaped top.

the

stretch the cloth tightly over the hair

quarter-round

the

hair held in place

With

groufid.

by the cloth covering,

it

is

the

an easy

Draw

matter to put on the leather or other covering.

a

upon the edges of the wood top to indicate the edge of the covering, and f inch or J inch above this draw another line parallel to it upon which to locate the tack holes; also draw a guide-line along the top of each end ground for the end tack holes. Space the holes upon these lines \\ inches from center to center, or as near to line

make

that as will

all

the spaces equal, and punch holes

for the tacks with a brad-awl

they

are.

Turn

in the

around, then fasten

The Bench V,

in the

it

which

is

trifle

smaller than

edge of the covering material

in place

all

with the tacks.

photograph opposite page 86, Chapter

a neat-appearing piece of furniture suitable for a

is

bedroom or any

of the living-rooms.

construction are

shown

legs

a

and end

then,

when

rails,

in

Fig.

1

30.

The

details for its

First,

prepare the

and mortise and tenon them

the pieces have been fitted properly,

tenons and the mortises with letters in such a

shown mark the way that

as

EASILY

you

will

know

just

MADE FURNITURE

which

up and which face turns

which edge

into which,

fits

119

.

is

Next, cut the mortises in

out.

the lower rails for the stretcher, then prepare the stretcher as in the detail, trim its rails

ends

and mortise them for the

be cut next.

Where

and a tenon, as should be

all

in the

fitted

the mortises in the

fit

The

pins.

side rails should

the joints consist of a mortise

member when all the

case of this bench, each

and tested

members have been

to

as cut;

then,

them together and go over the whole piece of work, and if any trimming is required, mark the locations. Then take the members apart, trim where you have found it necessary and sandpaper each The beveling of the tops of the legs and ends of piece. the stretcher

may

cut,

be

fit

left until this

stage of the construc-

tion (do this beveling with a chisel).

Assemble the pieces in the order in which you prepared them, and coat the end of each tenon and the inside of each mortise with glue before fitting them in place. After the glue has had time to set, cut the top piece to fit between the upper rails and fasten it in place with screws. Before boring holes for the screws,

where the large tacks are

to

locate

the places

go so you can avoid them.

Nail a piece of qtiarter-round along the top edge of each of the

ing

upper

rails to

hold in the edges of the upholster-

filling.

Finish

then

upholster

manner described for the material must be cut very

Footstool.

the

w^ood,

the

top

in

the

The covering

carefully at the corners

and

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

I20

be turned

about

1

neatly around the legs.

in

Space the tacks

1 Inches on centers.

With

the general increase in the reading of monthly,

semimonthly, and weekly magazines comes the pilAlem taking care of the back numbers with which the

of

family are not entirely through, for the accumulation rapid,

and a place must be found where they can be piled

some kind

in

is

of order.

Magazine-racks

made upon

the plan of open bookcases,

but with the shelves spaced closer together, solve the

problem at the

keeping them within convenient reach and

of

same time

Fig.

illustrated in

As

131

shown

is

The magazine-rack

manner.

in a tidy

in detail in Fig.

135.

the ends of this spread out at the bottom, the end

must have their ends cut off on The way to get the proper angle for

pieces and the shelves the diagonal.

trimming

off these

ends

to lay the

is

end pieces upon

the floor on their edges, at the given distances apart, and

near the top and

then tack a strip across the edges

bottom

to hold

them temporarily

in that position.

Then

place the finished top piece against the tops of the end pieces and you will see just quire.

If

you have a bevel (Fig.

and mark

this angle

accordingly

very careful or

also

;

the bevel the

same,

now much trimming

off the

mark

off

34,

page

they

26), set

it

re-

to

ends of each end piece

the

shelf

ends.

Without

work may be done with a square, but be to lay out each end of each piece the

the

pieces

will

not

fit

satisfactorily.

The

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

122

shelves and top are

fastened

the end pieces with

to

round-head screws.

The magazine-rack shown

Fig. 132 has shelves of

in

the widths vary, as

equal length, but

cross-section detail (Fig.

is

shown

in the

Fasten the shelves to

136).

the end pieces with round-head screws.

The Music-cabinet shown in

Fig.

attractive piece of furniture for a

133 will

make an

music room.

First,

prepare the end pieces and the J^helves (Fig. 137), then after these pieces

have been fastened together, put on the

back boards and make and hang the paneled door. The best scheme for making a tight-fitting back is to use matched-and-beaded boards (known as M-&-B

A

ceiling).

board always shrinks crosswise of the grain (but not

lengthwise), and also expands and contracts to a certain

extent with the changes in

movement must be provided

for

gether, or there will be trouble. net, for

example.

atmosphere, and

the

Here the back

in joining

Take will

this

pieces to-

the music-cabi-

shrink and swell in

the width of the cabinet, but the shelves will not, as their

grain runs the other way, and under these conditions, the back

boards are wide, and are

nailed to the shelves, they are

ing or buckle (bulge out) in

bound

fitted

if

snugly and

to split in shrink-

swelling, for

the

shelves

move with them but if the boards are narrow, the movement in each piece will of course be very slight, and the small amount that there is may be taken care of will

not

in the joints,

;

where,

if

the boards are matched and beaded,

>

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

124

Rabbet the two side pieces and the top and bottom shelf (see Rabbet, page 65) so the boards of the back will set flush with the edges, and it

will not

be noticeable.

plane off enough of the back edge of the middle shelf to allow the boards to pass (see Cross-section).

Cut the

rabbets about ^ inch wide by the thickness of the boards.

Use

finishing-nails

and

pieces,

nail the

for

together the

nailing

cabinet

boards of the back to the rabbeted

shown in the rear elevation. The details show an original idea for constructing a paneled door, which so simplifies the work that any boy

surfaces as

will find

such a door easy to make.

stiles of

the frame are

made

board with the groove

left

of a

on

it

The

rails

and the

tongued-and-grooved

to receive the

edges

of

Tenons are cut upon the ends of the rails, and mortises are made in the stiles to receive them, and the panel.

the board used for the panel of

one face to

fit

is

rabbeted on the edges

the grooves in

the frame.

The

rail

tenons should be about \\ inches long, and the mortises a

trifle

deeper, and the panel board

must

fit

loosely in the

edges and the

frame, with plenty of space between

its

bottom

movement caused

of the groove, to allow for the

by the expansion and contraction of the wood. Glue the frame together, but leave the panel loose. A paneled door

is

usually

opening it

to

this.

in

made

which

a

it is

trifle

to

the opening; the

larger

all

around than the

be hinged, to allow iox fitti^tg

dimensions given provide

for

Fig. 134

Figs. 131

Fig. 133.

and

— Music-Cabinet.

132.

— Magazine-Racks. — Umbrella-Stand. Fig, •

134.

EASILY

Buy

MADE FURNITURE

a pair of brass butts of

the

125

shown with

size

which to hinge the door in place, and screw these to the edge of the door, notching the edge enough to receive

A

the full thickness of the folded hinge.

which stile,

shown

in the detail

(a Mortise-lock),

shown

neatest appearing job, but the lock (a

Half-mortise lock)

is

easier to put

done on the inside face of the

makes the above

it

on as the cutting

is

With

stile.

lock,

edge of the door

sets into a mortise cut in the

as

cupboard

just

either lock the

selvage-plate [the front plate

through which the ^<9// passes]

must be

edge

set flush with the

of the stile.

Upon

the

face of the stile carefully locate the key-pin, then cut a

hole a

trifle

mortise.

larger than the key through the stile into the

After the lock has been screwed in place and

properly adjusted, tack an escutcheon plate over the keyhole to finish

it

off.

Locate where the lock bolt strikes the

side of the cabinet, for

it

and cut a small pocket

to turn into.

side of the top shelf

strip of

strike against.

that point

Directly inside of the door tack a

wood to the under and another down each side, as stop narrow

at

strips for the

door to

These must be adjusted so the door

will

close properly.

Figure 134 shows a new idea for

An

Umbrella-stand, and

construction.

The

Fig.

138

base holds a

the

tin

details

for its

muflin-pan, each

cup of which forms a receptacle for an umbrella end.

These pans are made with so

you can plan your stand

six,

eight, or twelve cups,

to hold as

many

umbrellas

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

126

as

Make

you wish.

the two frames of equal size and

enough to hold the rim of the muffin-pan (the the pan used will determine the dimensions of

just large size of

these

using strips

frames),

2

inches

then cut

wide,

them

four uprights of the sizes shown, and fasten

to the

four corners so that they will just conceal the joints in

The

the frames (see plan).

muffin-pan should

enough ff

in

frame so

moved PUAN^

ing.

it

fit

loosely

the

lower

may be

re-

easily for clean-

should

It

be

painted w^ith a couple of coats

enamel

to

Make two frames) like this''

Fig. 138.

ENO- ELEVATION

give

— Details of Umbrella-stand shown

makes

the ends of the rails as

to

in the

rails,

posts

|-

to

shown

in Fig. 139

is

First

rails (Fig. 143),

inch deep to receive

then prepare the front and rear

shown and make mortises in the posts ^ inch Next cut the stretcher as it is receive them.

detailed in the plan, mortise the lower

end

ends to run through, and prepare pins to er's

as

Chair such

a pretty seat for a hall or reception-room.

and cut mortises

from

a finish.

prepare the four corner posts and the end

deep

well

it

A Roman

in Fig. 134.

as

it

register-

keep

as

rusting, SIDEELEVmTION

dull

of

mortises.

Read

fit

rails for its

the stretch-

the instructions given upon page

117 for marking, fitting together, and gluing the mor-

!

LIST OF MATERIAL

|

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

128

and tenoned pieces

tised in

Roman

assembling the

inside face of

then

slats,

the

cut

four

the

Bench^ and follow these

of the

Chair.

Nail a cleat to the to support the seat

seat rails

proper length

the

to

slats

and

them to the cleats, spacing them \ inch apart. Screw the arm pieces to the tops of the posts and to the top end rails, using round-head screws. nail

You

mother or

assistance of

your

the cushion for the

seat.

probably require

will

sister

in

making

the

This should be about 2\ inches thick, and should be stuffed with hair and tacked every 4 or 5 inches with strong

examining

method

of

to hold

thread

linen

cushion,

a

or

to

mattress,

By the

sewing together the cover so as to give the be understood.

will

have to be pliable enough

will

around the corner

fit

bed

even a

cushion a square box effect

cushion

the filling in place.

The

at the corners

as shown.

posts,

Figure 140 shows an attractive design for

A

Mission Chair, and Fig. 144 includes the necessary

working

The

details.

waste piece

left

may be

front legs

after cutting out the

tised rails

\ inch

and the seat

shown

\ inch

rails

are

of the rails, the lower

for the

ends of the stretcher,

braced with corner blocks, as

in the small detail plan.

two pieces

of

The

an 8-inch board and

of the seat rails flush

legs are mor-

ends

to receive the

are mortised

back legs; bevel

The

the tops of these pieces as shown.

cut from the

is

seat

is

made

out of

nailed to the tops

with the outside face of the

rails.

Fig. 140.

Fig.

Fig. 139.

Fig, 142.

—a

—^Ax

Fig. 141 14:^.

Roman

Chair.

Electric Lamp.

Fig. 140.

A

Fig. 141.

A

Mission Chair. Mission Writixg-Df.sk.

EASILY

MADE FURNITURE

129

Upholster the seat as described on page 116 for the Footstool, only

do not put on a greater thickness

the hair filling than

is

shown

in

the

of

cross-section of

the chair.

A

Mission

Fig. 141

is

Writing-desk such

easy to construct.

as

that

illustrated

in

After preparing the legs LIST

0'=

MATERIAL

)

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

I30

the end rails for

its

ends to set

The

in.

material box

is

completed by adding two boards, one for the bottom and the other for the back

As

with iinishing-nails. top

hinged

is

these

;

may

the front portion of the desk

back portion,

to the

material box, you will be saved the

wide

The back board

top.

be fastened in place

neatly around the back legs.

of

to give access to the

work

of gluing

up a

the top must be fitted

Hinge

the front portion of

the top to the back portion with a pair of brass butts

inches by tised as

2

inches in

shown,

letter-rack,

and

The back

size.

this

must be morthe back of the

legs

receive the ends of

to

i|-

back piece must be slipped into place

same time that the shelf ends are slipped into the mortises in the end rails. The front of the letter-rack is at the

screwed to the front face of the back

As mentioned number

legs.

before, in a big piece of

work where

of the parts are mortised-and-tenoned,

thing together,

first,

before gluing or nailing

fit

a

every-

any part

in

place permanently.

With

electricity

ing dwellings,

oil

coming

into general usage for light-

and gas lamps are being displaced by

electric lamps.

An

Electric

Lamp with

very simple to make.

a

wooden stand and base

is

Figure 142 shows an attractive

design for a desk or table lamp, fitted with one of the perforated brass lamp-shades described in Chapter XIII.

The 146).

stand

is

made

in four pieces

(A, B, C, and D, Fig.

After cutting these to the dimensions given, and

MADE FURNITURE

EASILY

B

beveling pieces

and

C

as shown, bore a f-inch hole

As

through the center of each. be too long for your

bit,

^31

bore

the hole through

it

A

will

halfway through from

each end, being careful to bore perfectly straight so the holes

the

meet af

will

Also

center.

bore a hole

same

the

of

diameter

through the center .

•

1

base

oi

as

shown,

meet the

vertical

piece to

f

1

one side

or

C,

These

hole.

are

Plan of Octagonal Cap

made

holes

deta-ls of "Separable

puug

.^

rPT 'Brass Smell

,:i'

-i'WOLE

<

''Binding-

SCRfWS

the

for

electric wires to

FOB

DROP-COfiO

Socket/ Binding ScRE*v-»

run

^

"BINDING"

Screw

Base

through.

The Socket for the

(Drop-CordI

OROP-CORD Kite

I

lamp

is

switch tacle,

a

Snap-

purchased

or 70 cents at

The

detail

C O^l' Fig. 146.

— Details

together

with a Separable

RECEPTACLE"

b:

Wall Recepand may be

»

Details OF KEY

Plug and

"Q"-^

of Electric

Lamp shown

in

Fig. 142.

lo feet of d^^op-cord for 65

any store where

electrical

goods are

drawings show the different parts

receptacle and plug, and the

of

sold.

the

co7inections caji safely be

made by any boy, for the whole thing is wired up, first, without any connectioji with live wires, then the upper part of the plug is screwed into a lamp socket in the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

132

same way is

that the plug of

any lamp or electrical appliance

attached, and the lower portion

The Wiring Operation twist the

ends

is

is

siiapped into

a very simple one.

of the wires as

'-FRONT RAIL

I

^5 CQ

^E.NC

-FRONT ELEVATION

First un-

shown, and scrape

^ORavvinG BOARD Top (3r-x42'^

I

L

it.

off the

MADE FURNITURE

EASILY

133

and tighten the screws to hold them in place. Next run the other end of the wire through the top of the lampstand and work

it

out through the hole in the side of the

base piece, then screw the base of the socket to

put the shell and bushing back in place. of the

drop-cord should be connected

The

D and

other end

the binding-

to

screws of the lower part of the plug.

The shown

holder required in Fig. 289,

the

lamp-shade

is

page 215.

Opposite page 86

A

support

to

shown

is

a view of

Drafting Table the author has used in his

number of do enough

Probably not

home workmany of you

room

for a

years.

boys

will

drafting to require such a table for

makes a splendid desk table, and reason working details for its construction are

the purpose, but for this

it

also

The

given in Fig. 147.

aprons, back,

legs,

rails,

and

lower shelf are screwed together, no mortising entering into the table's construction.

and

for the top of the table,

as shown,

by means

A drawing-board was used

this

is

held securely in place,

hooks and screw-eyes.

of

A

large

drawing-board can be purchased as cheaply as you can have one made, and

it

will

be built up of well-seasoned

material and be properly cleated so that

out of shape or

A (see

Desk

Table,

split.

If

you want

to

it

will

not warp

make

dowel and glue together the top boards

Dowel-Joint, page

68),

or,

better

still,

have

this

It will work done at a mill if there is one near by. not cost much, and you will save a good deal of time by

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

134

doing.

SO

Of

course, the

for drafting also, as a

desk

table

may

be used

drawing-board can be laid upon

the table top.

The Electric Fixture shown over the author's table the photograph opposite page 86 of brass tubing

end

of a piece of

was made out

table,

if

of a piece

from an old gas-lamp, fastened to the tubing from an extension curtain-rod.

Use your ingenuity and construct a your

in

there

is

electric light in

similar fixture for

your house.

m^a CHAPTER

VII

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE

Modern work of in

inventions are doing

of the

much

to

lighten the

housekeeper, and the extensive advertising

numerous labor-saving devices now being carried on the various newspapers and miagazines is awakening

a oreneral interest in all sorts of

The

fact that

women

household conveniences.

are adding these articles to their

working equipment more and more, as they begin to realize the time and labor which may be saved by their use,

should be enough to suggest to you energetic boys

who have an eye

for business that there

money

portunity to earn ing advantage

is

a splendid op-

outside of school hours, by tak-

of the publicity that is

being given to

these household contrivances and manufacturing a line of articles of

expect

to

your own

to sell.

Of

course, you can hardly

have vacuum cleaners and

electric fiatirons,

and other such conveniences, but the simpler things which you can con-

toasters, percolators,

there are

many

of

struct, especially

just as

As

good

those

made out

of

wood, which

will

be

as those sold in the stores.

a line of samples could not be carried 135

around very

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

136

easily, unless

you

built a

wagon

especially for the pur-

and as a prospective customer would naturally wish see what an article is like, the best method of showing

pose, to

goods to those who cannot conveniently your house would be to take some photographs

your

line

come

to

of

them,

of

or,

you haven't a camera,

if

make drawings

to

from the objects and prepare blueprints from these as described in Chapter V. /

The

shown upon the following pages will give you a variety of good ideas to start with, and you will probably get suggestions from your mother and her friends for things which they have found very handy by adding the latter to your list you can make it more comarticles

;

You

plete.

one idea often suggests

will also find that

another.

The

A

ease with which

may be constructed, together with demand for them is growing greater

Fireless Cooker

the fact that the

every day, makes this a good article to begin work upon.

This kitchen convenience in

Norway, where

many

it

years, but over there

sils for

packing.

Its

advantages which of cooking. fire

It is

it

common

hay

use for a great

generally

is

it

is

popularity

known

as a

used around the uten-

is

number of cook-stove method

due

possesses over the

to a

only necessary to place the food over

long enough to start

into the cooker,

claimed to have originated

has been in

hay-stove from the fact that

a

is

it

cooking before putting

which not only makes a big saving

it

in

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE the gas-bill,

if

cooler kitchen time.

The

gas

is

used for

— which

is

fuel,

137

but also results in a

appreciable in

the

summer

insulation around the receptacles keeps the

cooking odors from getting out, and outside dust from getting

in,

and from the time the food

is

placed in the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

138

be converted into a cooker, but as the insulation around

must be as nearly perfect as it is possible to make it, such a box must have its boards driven toIf you make the box, and that is gether with tight joints. the better way, buy matched boards out of which to conthe receptacles

Figure 149 shows a plan of the box with the These two cover opened, and Fig. 150 a cross-section. struct

it.

working-drawings have the dimensions of the cooker

marked upon them, but the

sizes

so long as you allow for the

around the receptacles as

The box should

first

need not be adhered to

same amount

shown.

is

be lined, and for this purpose

Tack

newspapers are good as anything. layers of the paper

of insulation

a couple of

around the sides and to the bottom,

and over these paste

dozen thicknesses.

half a

The

first

sheets form a foundation to paste to; the other sheets

cover the breaks

make

made

in the

paper by the tacks and Batten together the

the insulation continuous.

cover boards upon the inside as shown, hinge the cover to the

back

hooks

to hold

of the box, it

down

tight,

from opening back too

bottom

of the

and a pair to

and provide far.

box so that

it

it

with a couple of

and a check-chain

to

keep

it

Fasten four casters to the

can be moved about

of trunk handles to the

ends to make

easily, it

easy

lift.

The

receptacles are

tin pails

make

the

or

shown

porcelain-lined

best kind

in Figs.

pails

1

of

of receptacles,

50 and 151. the

and a

sizes

Two shown

kettle small

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE enough

to

into the larger pail provides a

fit

139

good inner

Buy two pot covers to fit the large pails The kettle will hold cereals and all foods (Fig. 151). for steaming, and when this is used, the outer pail must be receptacle.

filled

with hot water to within about

Shallow pans

the kettle.

the tops of the pails

in

of food

directly in one of the pails, but

much

is

it

of the receptacle as possible,

draw away the heat from the

will

the advantage

comes

may

be placed

essential to

with

filled

fill

as

because waste space

food.

This

in of using the kettle or

where

is

pans when

cooking small quantities of food, for the outer be

fit

be provided for smaller

Large quantities

receptacles.

proper diameter to

of the

may

inch of the rim of

i

pail

may

Furnish your customers

boiling water.

with these instructions.

Boards

A,B,

C,

and

D

(Fig. 149) set even with the

Locate the

brims of the pails and conceal the packing.

brims of the pails on these boards,

and saw out the openings with a small saw. along the two sides of the box to boards

to, at

must be

nail

Nail cleats

the ends of the

the proper height for the larger

set 2 inches

pail,

sior in the

it

pack

bottom

which

above the bottom of the box.

Procure excelsior for packing and dampen water to make

shown,

in the positions

well.

of the

it

with

Place enough of the excel-

box

to

make

it

of the

right

height for the larger pail to set upon, and then put in

enough more pail

;

pack

to obtain the proper level for the smaller

in this excelsior as tight as

you

can.

The

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

I40

openings in the boards in the right positions.

around the excelsior,

will

guide you in setting the pails

Fill

up the balance

pails to the level of the cover boards with

and press

down

it

so as to

Allow the excelsior

as possible.

to

make

Make

it

compact

as

become thoroughly

The

dry before nailing on the cover boards.

draw out

of the space

pails will

of the excelsior easily, as their sides taper.

a cushion similar to that

shown

in

Fig. 152 to

the space between the top of the pails and the box

fill

This should be made

cover.

gether across the top so one show^n, to

make

it

upon the

You

it

thick

sections, joined to-

will fold

over the other as

possible to get at one receptacle with-

Stuff the cushion with excelsior,

out uncovering both.

and make

two

in

enough so the cover

wdll press

boys probably

means

will

be interested to

know

of

The

cooker

preparing rations while the troops are on

undoubtedly,

it

will

satisfactory

be adopted for such service.

cookers used in the test w^ere

scale,

that

fireless

the march, and that results have been so that,

down

pail covers.

The United States Army has tested the as a

it

made upon

were packed with the meat, beans,

a large

cereal, or other

food, at breakfast time, then carted along with the other

camp equipment, and when opened

at the

end

day's march, supplied a steaming hot meal to the

troopers without delay

method of awaiting the setting up fires, and cooking of food.

the of

— an improvement,

of the

hungry

certainly, over

of stoves, kindling

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE

A

Pot-cover Rack such as

the most satisfactory

one desired

way

of

shown

141

in Fig. 153 provides

keeping these covers, as the

always

is

within convenient reach

— which case

is

never the

when they are piled

up on a

shelf or

in a

drawer.

Figure 154 shows the pattern

the

for

pieces

of

Space

the

the

side rack.

slots

as

shown, then cut along the side lines of each slot

with a saw and remove the

wood with

a chisel.

Notch the back edges

as

Fig. 153.

— Pot-

Fig. 154.

— Pattern

for bide Pieces.

cover Rack.

shown, and cut the two connecting cross-pieces 8 inches lonor

to

notches.

fit

in

these

Nail or screw

the

cross-pieces

place,

and bore a couple

of

holes

in

through the

upper one so the rack Fig. 155.

— Pantry

may

be hung up on

Shelf Bottle-rack.

nails in the pantry.

The Bottle-rack shown in Fig. 155 is a contrivance which your mother will appreciate, as it will hold all

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

142

of her bottles of

olive

extracts, catsup,

Worcestershire sauce,

and prevent one bottle from knocking over

oil, etc.,

when lifted out from behind them. The rack is made out of a piece of board measuring

several others

9 inches wide and 15 inches long, and the holes for the

and cut as shown

bottles are laid out

cutting the board and planing off

it

After

in Fig. 156.

up smooth and

true, lay

along the edges the measurements given for the cen-

and square

ters of the holes

The

these points.

2^ inches

board at

centers will be at the intersections

For the two rows

of the lines. circles

lines across the

in

of large

holes describe

diameter, and for the row of slots describe a circle

i

inch

]^2i'-

in

diameter each side of

the vertical center-lines,

with a center J inch away from the lines, as

shown. Cutting Large Holes.

Unless you have an ex-

— Plan of Bottle-rack.

Fig. 156.

(Showing the four steps your largest auger-bit

in cutting holes larger

will bore,

and in

pansive-bit than

page

you

will

156),

to

the

In the

first

can

proper

have to bore a number of small holes

side of the large circles

a chisel.

which

21),

24,

cutting slots.)

be set radius,

(Fig.

and then

row

in-

finish the cutting with

of holes

on the diagram (Fig.

A shows the first step — describing the circle; B the

second step

— boring a ring of holes inside

of the circle;

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE

C the

— spHtting

third step

holes;

D the fourth

and

wood between

out the

step

the

— trimming up the hole

The diagram

the circle with a chisel.

143

also

to

shows the

^ shows the centers center lines, F the two

four steps required to cut the slots.

marked I

each side of the

off

G how

-inch holes bored at these centers,

tween the holes

trimmed

The

up.

good practice chisel.

out,

is split

and

Z^how

wood

the slot

is

be-

finally

preparation of this board will give you

handling the

in

the

bit

and brace and the

Place the board in the vise for boring the holes,

and bore only

until the

screw point comes through the

opposite side, then turn the board over and bore through the rest of the the

wood around

would do one

way from

if

This

side.

the hole from chipping

is

to prevent

off,

which

it

the holes were bored entirely through from

Be

side.

that

hold the brace exactly

careful to

A

cal while boring.

verti-

|-inch or l-inch chisel should be

used for trimming the holes, and a half-round wood-file

page 25) and sandpaper smoothing them. (Fig.

'TiZ'^

will

be a great help in

Nail a cleat to the under face of each end of the board as

shown

in Fig. 155,

The Flat-iron Rest housekeeper

will

and the rack is

will

be completed.

another convenience which a

be glad to have, as

it

is

much

handier

than an inverted pie-plate or folded newspaper to set an iron upon,

and the

rubbing

on the piece

it

half of the board.

sole of the iron

This

of is

may

be cleaned by

emery-paper fastened

shown

in Fig. 157.

to

one

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

144

Cut the board about 8 by 12 inches In size, tack a piece of tin (a piece from a tomato can will do) over the half

which

is

hold

to

the iron, and a piece of

No. o sandpaper over the other half, and then

tack some narrow wooden strips around the edge of the tin for

— Flat-iron Rest.

Fig. 157.

a

rim

iron

Screw a couple of screw-eyes by which to hang it up.

.

r'ji'

Fig. 159.

into

to

from

one end

prevent the sliding of the

off.

board

— 4i'—

>[

— Pattern

for

Side Pieces

Fig. 158.

— Flat-iron Rack.

The Flat-iron Rack (Fig. 158) is easy to make. Lay out the end pieces to the dimensions given on the pattern (Fig. 159), with the top

and bottom beveled and the

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE back edge notched as shown

then, after cutting these,

;

prepare three back strips 22 inches long and to notches, and nail

them

145

fit

the

Cut the two shelves

in place.

4! inches wide by the proper length to

fit

between the

end pieces, and fasten them to the end pieces and to the back strips so the bottoms

and

strips are

Bore a couple

flush. of

of the shelves

through

holes

upper back

the

and

strips

furnish your customers

two

with

screw-hooks

with which to hang the rack to a wall.

Figure 160 shows a

good scheme

A

for

and

Sleeve-board,

patterns

161

Fig.

making

Prepare the

it.

two pieces

shown

for

A

and

B

Fig. 160.

as

in Fig. 161, bore

— Sleeve-board. Pieces A and B. 161. — Patterns

Fig. 160.

for

Ficj.

the -|-inch holes where indicated,

and cut four dowels

Before connecting

them.

edges with a plane.

by means of in

A

is

Fasten

inches long to

and B, round the

the

put on, but this

is

in

their

through the edges

cloth covering on that

off

fit

dowels in the holes

finishing-nails driven

The same way

and B.

the

board

of

A

5

A

is

pinned on

covering of any ironing-

never provided with sleeve-

146

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

boards, so

you need not furnish

you make

it

with the boards

to sell.

The Knife-box shown

has a bottom piece 8

in Fig. 162

inches wide and 15 inches long, two side pieces 2| inches 8-— ^ wide and 15 inches u

—

END5

J^

two end pieces

long,

the

shape

and

size

Fig.

163,

Fig. 163.

shown

in

and a center partition 3 Fig. 162.

Fig. 162. Fig. 163.

— Knife-box. — Pattern Ends. for

the side pieces

enough

bottom and end

pieces.

partition, to

inches high by the

inside

length

box.

Bevel the top

the

of

and bottom edges

of

make them square with the Cut the slot shown in the center

to

form the handle, by boring a f-inch hole

2

inches each side of the center of the piece and then cutting out the

same way

wood between

as that described on

slots in the Bottle-rack,

between the end

page 142

for cutting the

Before fastening the partition

pieces, tack a piece of

bottom of the inside

A

the holes with a chisel, in the

felt

over the

of the box.

Scrub-pail Platform will be appreciated

by any

woman

who

has experienced the tiresome work of lifting the

pail

every few minutes while scrubbing, to set

it

in a

mounted upon casters so that it may Figure 164 shows easily be pushed along on the floor. the completed platform, and Fig. 165 a view of the under

different spot, as

it is

HANDY CONTRIVANCES FOR THE HOUSE You

side.

quickly as

will see that this platform

it

147

can be made very

consists of only a board a

trifle

larger each

way than the diameter bottom

the

of

pail,

of

the

with strips nailed

around

its

edges to keep

the pail from

slipping

off

and a caster screwed

to

each

of the four

Fig. 164.

— Scmb-

Fig. 165.

— Bottom

View of Platform.

pail Platform.

corners.

A

handy arrangement for holding a kitchen hand-towel, and one similar to that shown in Fig. 166 and finished to match the woodwork of the Towel-roller

is

a

Fig. 168.

CUT-SLOTS

LIK E

THIS

IN

Fig. 167. End PIECES)

OR USE WINDOW-SHADE SOCKETS LIKtTHESE^

Fig. 166.

— Towel-roller.

— Section showing Slotted End Piece. 168. — Broom-handle Roller showing Pivot in End.

Fig. 167. Fig.

kitchen can be screwed to the face of one of the doors.

Cut the back board 3J inches wide and 24 inches long, bevel its edges, and bore a couple of holes in the positions shown through which to screw it to the door. Cut the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

148

end pieces

2-|

inches square, and round the ends as shown

the ends.

them

back board f inch from Procure a broom-handle and cut a piece from

(Fig. 167), then nail

to the

the lower or straight portion for the roller, and drive a

piece of a 20-penny nail into the exact center of each

end of

to

Cut a

for pivots (Fig. 168).

each end piece down to

its

slot

from the top edge

center for the roller pivots

turn in (Fig. 167), or buy a pair of sockets (Fig.

them

to the

window-shade

and screw

167)

end pieces.

For cutting and chipping an ice-pick and an should

be

kept

ice,

ice-chisel

within

easy

reach of the refrigerator, and

An

Ice-pick

Rack screwed Fig. 169.

— Ice-pick and Ice-chisel ^^^^-

169).

Make

Ice-chisel

to the

side of

the refrigerator will keep these tools within

this

and

easy

reach (Fig,

out of a short block of wood, bore

a hole for the pick,

and cut a groove

enough for the chisel. Household conveniences such

in the

back edge

large

in this chapter

may

be

made

as

have been described

out of pine, cypress, white-

wood, basswood, oak, and ash, and they

may

be painted,

stained, shellacked, or varnished, according to the choice of

finish

make. finish

your mother, neighbors, or other customers

For kitchen, pantry, or laundry use, there better than shellac, or shellac and varnish.

is

no

The

attic of the

average house presents the best pos-

up a boy's room, for generally it a large unfinished space where a boy will have an

sible conditions for fitting is

excellent opportunity to partition off as large a

may

he

require,

and furnish

home-made furniture and Usually an

all

it

to suit his

of his

own

room

as

taste with

knickknack keepsakes.

attic is the storage place for old trunks, anti-

quated furniture, and household truck, and this could very easily

be packed together in such a way that a large

enough space for a room would remain at one end. Figures 1 70 and 1 7 1 show how a room can be made in the attic of a

fers

house having a gable

from another

in plan

just as the

house

and design, the suggestions

fied to suit the

but as one

roof,

conditions of your

differs will

from another

have

attic.

attic dif-

to

be modi-

Take

a run up

to the top of

your house, boys, and look things over

you can

better just

A

tell

what you can

Dividing Partition to separate the

of the attic should

be

built, first,

then

do.

room from

the rest

and Fig. 172 shows the

proper method of erecting the studs. 149

;

If

the attic walls

ISO

151

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

152

are unfinished and of frame construction, as Fig. 170,

it

will

shown

in

look best to space the partition studs

directly opposite the wall studs

and

nail the

boarding

on the outside face (Fig. 171); but they may be spaced 3 feet apart, to save lumber, and yet be close enough to support the boards.

Fig. 172.

— Studding Dividing Partition. — Toe-nail the End of Studs Way. — Entrance Door. of Outside of View 174. 175. — Plan showing Construction of Door Opening.

Fig. 172.

for

Fig. 173. Fig. Fig. If

you run the

roof rafters, locate

in this

tlie

same direction as the so the upper end of the studs may

partition in the it

be spiked to the rafters (Fig. 172)

;

if

the other way, nail

A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC

153

a strip across the bottoms of the rafters to spike your

studs

The

to.

illustrations

show

in the direction of the rafters, so

erect

in this way.

it

To

the partition running

you how to

shall tell

I

get the bottom of the studs in

a line, run

A

Plumb-line from a nail driven into the face of one

of the

two

rafters,

i

inch or so above the

rafter, as in Fig. 172.

driven into the face of the opposite

Any

strong cord

may be used

should also h^ plumbed

\v^

The

for this line.

and down,

This consists

Plumb-board.

studs

as the rafters

board

of a 4-inch

may

make

not run exactly straight, and for this purpose

A

a nail

floor, to

5 or

6

long whose edges have been planed up straight and

feet true,

with a

"V"

notch cut in the center

of

one end and

a cord with a weight attached tied to a nail driven into

By placing

the center of the opposite end.

against the side of a stud, you can is

plumb by

tell

when

(This home-made plumb-board

is

of " If

The Boy

toe-nail

the

the stud

illustrated

hang is

it

ex-

plumb.

on page 13

Craftsman.")

you locate the door

first set

whether or not

the position of the cord, which will

actly in the center of the notch

board

this

\.\\o

them

jamb

in the center of the partition,

studs 3 feet apart (Fig. 172) and

to the floor

and

to the rafters (Fig.

173),

then spike a cross-piece between these studs, 6 feet 9 inches above the floor, to form the head of the door, and fasten another horizontal piece about 20 inches above for the

head

of the

transom.

it

Next, spike the end studs

154

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

in position,

and

shown

on the temporary diagonal braces

nail

in the illustration to

keep the studding plumb

the boarding has been nailed on.

until

Space the intermediate

studs at the proper distances apart, and, as soon as each piece

made plumb, tack

is

the brace to

it

to hold

it

in

position until you spike the ends in place. It is

new lumber

not necessary to have

Boards and studs can usually be bought very

tion.

cheaply wherever a frame building this

for this parti-

second-hand

stuff

is

and box boards

any roughness can be concealed.

being wrecked, and will

Studs

do very

may

well, for

be spliced

with fish-plates when too short (see Fished-splice, on

page

58).

If the

Roof runs down to the Floor along the sides of

the room, a partition should be built along each side at a

point where the roof

is

above the

3 feet

behind these partitions

may

floor,

so the space

be utilized for

room which cannot very These partitions are made as

Lockers, an addition to a boy's well be dispensed with.

shown

in Figs. 176

tween the

floor

and

i-by-2-inch strip

is

and

177.

rafters at

Short studs are

fitted be-

about every other

rafter, a

nailed across the studding near the

top and another near the bottom, the studs being notched so the strips will set flush with their face, as

shown

in

Fig. 177, and then burlap, denim, or dark-colored muslin is

tacked to these

strips.

The

strips

and covering should

be carried around the other two walls of the room, to

form a similar

also,

A BOY'S ROOM IN AN ATTIC Wainscoting. nail a 6-inch

When

155

the cloth has been

tacked on,

board around the bottom and another board

same width around the top, and cut a board to fit between the rafters to form a shelf or cap over the wain-

of the

scoting (Fig. 177).

Fig. 176.

— How the Wainscoting put up. — Cross-section of Completed Wainscoting. 177.

Fig. 176. Fig.

A the

is

Large Clothes Closet should be built in one corner of

room

as

shown

in Figs. 171

and

178,

and the inside

should be fitted up with shelves, hooks, and coat and trousers hangers.

pole

may be

A

piece of broom-handle or curtain-

fastened across the rafters upon which to

hook coat hangers, hooks may be made out of spools (Fig. 179), and the Trousers Hangers (Fig. 180) consist of two pieces of wood about 8 inches long, with one face of each beveled

(A and B,

Fig. 180),

and a wooden button

(C, Fig. 180).

156

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

Screw block

B to

parallel to

so the bevels will be about \ inch apart, and

it

the under side of a shelf, place block

A

screw one end to the shelf;

ton

then screw but-

C in

position

the proper

so

when

the ends of a pair of trousers are

placed

between the beveled sides

of

can

it

A

and B,

be

turned

against strip ^4 as a

lock to hold the two Fig. 178.

Fig. 178.

show

— Clothes

Closet, with

strips together. Wall broken

Inside.

— Spool Hooks. 180. — Details of Trousers Hangers.

Fig. 179. Fig.

shown

in Figs. 171

and

178.

to

The Doors should be made of boards battened together as

To make

a nicely finished

entrance to the room, conceal the studding around the

doorway with jamd and /lead boards, and nail a board ^rim around the opening as shown in Figs. 171 and 1 74. In the plan of the doorjamb (Fig. 1 75), the stud on one side of the opening is shown at A, the finished y^;;2<5 board at B, and the inside and outside casings or trim at C\ the door

shown hinged is

in place at

D, and the stop

strip

shown

at

is

E

nailed around the inside of the opening for the door to

strike against.

Hinge the entrance door and the locker

doors on to the casings with sfrap-hinges (Fig. 171).

A BOY'S

ROOM

The Entrance-door Transom together (Fig. 171) and It

is

AN ATTIC

IN

made

is

hinged

of

boards battened

at the top to the trim.

operated by means of a cord which

is

157

run from a

is

screw-eye in the bottom of the transom up over a small pulley in the ceiling,

and from that down

to a nail in the wall.

Figure 181 shows the details for

An

Old-fashioned Cabin Latch which will

By looking

for the doors.

A

the latch

screwed

at

(Fig.

place over

C is

calck

you

will see that

is

one end to the

door, \ht guard in

181)

at Fig. 171,

do very well

set

B

is

screwed

A, and the into the jamb

The entrance door

board.

should have a latch-string with which to open

it

Fig. 181

from

.

— Details of Door Latch,

Guard, Catch, and Button.

the outside (Figs. 174 and

181) and also a to lock of the

it

wooden

on the

inside.

door similar

Few

btitton {D, Fig. 181) with

to

unfinished

Make

guard

attics

B

are

which

a handle for the outside

(Figs. 174

and

181).

provided with heat, but

probably you can obtain

For a coal stove you will have to run a pipe through the partition and over to the chimney, and if there is no opening into the

An

Oil

chimney

Heater or Stove for your room.

flue, it will

be necessary to get a mason to cut

one and set a thimble into pipe

;

but the latter work

it

to receive the

will not cost

much.

end

of the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

158 If

A

there isn't any running water in the

Wash-stand

in

hold a wash-bowl and pitcher.

A

shown

a corner, as

attic,

in

make

Fig. 171, to

Fasten

Broom- handle Towel-rack above the wash-stand

to

the rafters, as shown.

Get a

common

barn lantern for

Lighting your Room,

been installed

70.

and construct

in the attic,

A Home-made 1

neither gas or electricity has

if

Hanging Lamp out

of

it

as

shown

in Fig.

Besides the lantern, you will need a harness snap^

Barn lantern

Fig. 182.

harness Snap

Screw-Pulley

— These things are required

6rick Counterbalance

for the

Home-made Hanging Lamp.

some clothes-line and Screw the pulley into

a screw-pulley^ a f-inch screw-eye^ cord,

and a brick (Fig.

182).

the ceiling in about the center of the room, then run the of

a rafter

;

over the pulley and

down

the

face

screw the screw-eye into the rafter

just

clothes-line

above the wainscot cap (Figs. 176 and 177), slip the clothes-line through this eye and then run it through a hole bored through the wainscot cap, just below, and tie

the brick to the end with cord for a counterbalance

(Fig. 177); fasten the harness snap to the other

the clothes-line and adjust

it

end

of

so that the lantern, whose

A BOY'S ROOiM IN AN ATTIC handle

is

snapped into

enough

to

down

to within easy

must be

of the brick

counterbalance the lantern

if

;

too heavy,

Figure 170 shows the lamp pushed

break off a piece.

up out

will pull

The weight

reach of the floor. just

it,

159

of the way.

Every one

of

you

have to suit your

will

Furnishing the Room, so the

own

taste in

serve

illustrations will

merely as suggestions for the arrangement

of pictures,

posters, pennants, fencing foils, tennis rackets,

and other

things.

Home-made Picture-frames can be made out very easily

of miteriiicr

planing

of

bictt

;

the ends of the laths together instead

them and

it

off

of laths

st?in the

wood

in the roiio^k instead

smooth.

The Furniture may be very simple,

like the

box

shown in the following chapter, or some designs shown in Chapter VI may be carried out wish to spend more time and labor upon it. ture

You

will

furniof

the

if

you

probably wish to make

A Pirate Chest such as is shown in Fig. 17 and A Window Seat as shown in Fig. 170. Ask r

mother

to

make

your

a few sofa pillows for the seat.

you Boys will not have an Attic in which to make a room, but those of you who have not will probably find ideas among these suggestions that can be adapted to

Some

of

your present room, whatever part of the house that in.

If

you already have an

some ways

in

which

to

attic

room, you

improve upon

its

may be

will likely see

furnishings.

mr^Ti;

CHAPTER

IX

BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE

Grocery

boxes, packing-cases, crates, barrels, kegs,

and much

of the " truck " to be

ment, and

wood shed suggest innumerable

for

making

things,

be utilized for

makes them Furniture

and the

found

in the attic, basepossibilities

fact that these materials

many purposes

with

can

or no expense

little

especially well suited to boys' work.

made from

the above materials

is

naturally

somewhat rough, compared with what can be produced with better wood, and some of it will appear clumsy, but no boy will object to this "home-made" appearance on furniture for his in fact,

he

The

if it

will serve his

will generally prefer

order that his

rooms

own room,

room may be

"

something

different "

purpose

—

like this in

from the other

of the house.

following pages

show

a

niture which are easy to make,

number

of pieces of fur-

and other ideas

will prob-

ably suggest themselves while you are working upon these.

The Writing-desk shown

in

Fig. 183

is

fitted

around

the wall studding, which would be exposed in your i6o

room

BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE if It

it

were

may

also

ing

it

In the unfinished attic of a

i6i

frame house

but

;

be fastened upon a plastered wall by support-

upon brackets nailed

to the wall, or

by hanging

it

with chains from hooks screwed into the wall.

Procure a box about 30 inches long, 14 inches wide,

and 16 inches deep

body

for the

The

of the desk.

top Fig.

y/////////i

185.

Fig. 187. L

.

J

Fig. 184.

Fig. 183. Fig.

183.— The

Writing-desk.

— Section through Writing-desk. Fig. 185. — A Desk or Cupboard Mortise-lock and Escutcheon Key-hole. Figs. 186-187. — How to set the Lock into the Drop-leaf of the Desk. Fig. 188. — Cigar Box Desk Drawers.

Fig. 184.

for

for

of

this will

bottom

will

around the

form the front

of

the desk, and then the

be the back, but in case* the desk studs, the

is

fitted

bottom boards should be removed,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i62

as a

back

will

Figure 184 shows a good

be unnecessary.

shape for bracket supports for the desk

after nailing

;

these in place at the proper height, fasten the box to

Make

their tops.

out of

I

the drop-leaf for the front of the desk

-inch boards

strips (yA, Fig. 183).

and batten them together with four Cut the two end battens a little

shorter than the width of the

leaf,

but

make

the two

center ones long enough to project about 10 inches, as in Fig. 184, so they will strike the

prevent the

leaf

bottom

of the

box and

from dropping further when opened to

shown by the dotted lines. Hinge the leaf in place as shown in Fig. 183. If you want a lock for the desk, go to a hardware store and buy a desk or the position

cupboard mortise-lock (Fig. 185); Cut a mortise in the edge of the

this will cost 15 cents. leaf of the

to receive the lock (Fig. 186), locate

and then screw the lock

in place

(Fig. 185) over the keyhole.

proper size

and cut the

keyhole,

and fasten the escutcheon

A

slot

must be cut

in the

lower face of the desk top for a pocket for the lock bolt to turn into, and in order to

make

it

possible to cut this

pocket, the front board of the top must be removed and

a board about will

make

i

inch wider nailed on in

its

place; this

a projection over the drop-leaf as

shown

in

Fig. 187.

Very thin wood should be used with which to partition off i\\Q pige 071- holes, and pieces of cigar boxes will do

Make the drawer openings of the boxes may be used for drawers (Figs.

nicely.

right size so

cigar

183, 184,

and

BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE and drive brass rug tacks into the ends

188),

for

163

of the

boxes

knobs.

To

give the drop-leaf a better writing surface, pad

it

with a few sheets of newspaper and then cover the paper with a piece of white oil-cloth. foot-rest

A

may

is

chair,

may

be bracketed to the wall 10 or

above the desk as shown

12 inches

how a

be fastened to the wall, below the desk.

Shelf for Books

It

Figure 183 shows

generally

an

and you ought

matter

easy to

in Fig. 183.

second-hand

the

more

store, as

find

a

broken

be able to get a discarded

piano-stool in your storeroom, from at a

to

some neighbor,

or

they are being replaced by

modern

piano bench, and having procured

two

articles,

these

you can

make An Of&ce Chair such as is shown in Fig. Remove the 189. chair legs, then set

the

seat

upon the

and

back

stool (Fig.

Fig. 189.

— The

Office Chair.

190)

and screw

it

to

the top; countersink the screw-heads, in

over

the

fill

heads

with putty, refinish

^^^^

T' ~ ?" upon

are fastened

office Chair.

'^''

^'p''

'/'

"'"^/wto form^t^' the a Piano-stool

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

164

the chair to match the stool, and the office chair will

be completed.

keg for A Waste-basket, wash it out thoroughly, and paint it inside and outside. One of these kegs which has been used by the author for this purpose for a number of years Procure a

is

shown

fish

in the

photograph opposite page

The Arm Rocker shown

The

seat

is

made

in Fig. 191 is

86.

easy to construct.

out of a box with the cover boards nailed on, and the back

and arm

strips are cut out of pieces of

or other boards.

If

boxes

you can

find

a pair of rockers from a broken chair, use

that

them and you

much ahead

laying a chair on

marking

not,

make

simple matter to

board,

if

;

its

be

will it

is

a

a pair by

side

upon a

out around

the

moving the chair over far enough to mark out the second rocker, and sawing out the pieces and smoothing them up. rocker, then

FlG. 191.

— The Arm

Rocker.

Figure 192 shows to the

bottom

how

the braces

of the box,

should be cut to

fit

A

should be nailed

and Fig. 193 how

over the rockers.

their ends

By looking

at

any

rocking-chair you will see that the rear ends of the rockers are set several inches closer together

ends

;

than the front

provide for this in preparing strips A, and be care-

BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE both rockers the same distance

ful to set

will

Screw the rockers

rock evenly.

i^S

In,

so the chair

to

strips

A

as

shown.

The

lengths of the strips for the back and arms will be

determined by the size of the box used for the

seat,

.n n n^n C

I

but in

fl.

-

.

D D D

Fig. 192.

Fig. 194.

Fig. 193.

Fig. 192.

— Chair overturned

to

show how the Rockers

are Attached.

— Brace for the Rockers. How the Back Constructed. — 194. — Pattern for the Wide Arm. 195.

Fig. 193. Fig.

Fig.

is

order that you

may have an

tions, sizes will

be given for a box 18 inches by 16 inches

by 12 inches. piece as

shown

long, strips strips

D

has been strips

£

The back should be in Fig. 194,

Strips

Fig. 192.

I

-I

C

B are

2|-

and nailed

to the

box as

2 feet

in

9 inches

2^ inches wide by 21 inches long, and

made and

strips J^ to the

constructed in one

inches wide by

inches wide by

(Fig.

idea of the proper propor-

192)

2 feet long.

After the back

fastened to the box, cut the two side i|-

inches wide by 20 inches long,

same width by 10 inches

long,

and

strips

1

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

66

G

to the

strips to

same width by i6 inches long. Fasten these the box and to each other as shown in Figs. 191 and 192, then cut the right arm

H

(Figs.

192 and

195) 18 inches long

by

inches wide

3

narrow end

at the

and

inches

8

at

the wide end, and

cut the the 3 \\Q Fig. Fig.

After

arms

Fig. 198.

— Cross-pieces

in

is

of

the

in place, brace

arm with

Made.

Open End of Barrel

which the Top

nailins: ^

the right is

arm

same length by inches wide.

196.

Fig. 197. 196. — The Barrel Table. 197. — How the Table Top

left

the small triangular

\£>

Built.

/

block

(Fig. 192).

When

you have completed your chair, give the measurements of the seat to your mother or sister, and ask her to

make

a cushion for

it.

Procure an apple or potato barrel for the base of

The Barrel Table

illustrated in Fig.

1

96.

The

(Fig. 197) should be about 30 inches square

three pieces of boards 10 inches wide. to the proper length side.

table top

and made

of

Cut the boards

and lay them upon the

floor side

by

Place the barrel bottom end up upon the exact

center of the square formed by the boards, then cut the

BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE cross battens

B

of the right length

and

and the

shown

at

A

in Fig. 198,

By covering

Turn the

barrel.

two pieces

again, nail

fit

to

and cut

between the

barrel right side

of 2-by-4 in the

and

fit

to the

the strips

close to the sides of the barrel,

the triangular corner blocks strips

them

nail

boards close against the side of the barrel,

C between them

167

up

open end as shown

nail the top to these cross-pieces.

the top with a piece of heavy wrapping-

paper and then tacking a piece of oilcloth

table

over the top and

edges, you will have a smoother

any

table;

unevenness

may

be

padded out with paper before the oilcloth

is

put on.

Three boxes size,

of exactly the

same

about 3 feet long, 12 inches

and 12 inches deep, are

wide,

re-

quired for

The Chiffonier shown

in Fig. 199.

A dealer in

shoes or dry goods will

most

have boxes

likely

of

uniform Fig. 199.

size.

— The Chiffonier.

Set the boxes on top of one another as in Fig. 200, and then fasten them together at the four corners with strips 6 inches longer than the

combined height

Nail together the edges of the strips, to the

boxes as shown

of the strips will

in Fig. 199.

first,

The

of the boxes.

then nail them projecting ends

be the legs, so they must be of exactly

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i68

the

same length

the floor.

or the chiffonier will not rest evenly

Fit horizontal strips to the front

upon

and ends

of

the boxes, between the leg strips, to conceal the joints

between the boxes (Fig. 199); cut these to the exact Figure 201 is a view of part width of the front edges. of the

bottom

of the chiffonier

and shows the leg

strips

and how the lower portion of the chiffonier is finished off, by nailing a strip shaped similar to that

in place

shown

in Fig.

202 across the front and a straight strip

across the ends (see Fig. 199).

Cut boards projection of

of the proper length to i

make

a top with a

inch over each end, and nail them to the

Fig. 200.

Fig. 201 Fig. 202.

— Three Boxes of exactly the Same 201. — View of Bottom of Chiffonier.

Fig. 200.

Size are required for the Chif-

fonier.

Fig.

Fig. 202.

a Strip like this to the Front at the Bottom.

— Cut Spools in Halves for Knobs. — Prepare two Pieces like this for the Mirror- frame Supports. 205. — Fasten a Strip like this in Front of the Mirror-frame Supports.

Fig. 203. Fig. 204. Fig.

—Fit

BOX AND BARREL FURNITURE top box so there will be the

The drawers may be made

of the box.

down

to the proper size, or

with doing in the

(Fig.

same projection

this,

if

01

you do not

cr the front

.

1

l.cL

you may hinge drop-leaves

same way that the writing-desk drv^ 183). Cut spools in halves for knobs

169

^t

boxes cut

e

to bother

to the boxes

vleaf

put on

is

(rig. 203),

and

screw two of the halves to the face of each drawer or drop-

shown

leaf as

A mirror can

be

in Fig. 199.

10 by 12 inches in size, set in a

purchased for 50 or 60 cents.

wooden frame,

To

fasten the

frame to the chiffonier, cut two uprights 16 inches long,

shown

Fig 204, bore a \inch hole near the upper end as shown, and drive a nail taper one edge of each as

in

through each hole into the exact center of the

mirror frame (Fig. 204).

of

each side edge

Nail or screw the lower

ends of the uprights to the back of the top box so the mirror will be exactly in the center of the chiffonier top

and about

3 inches

that in Fig. 205,

above

Shape

it.

and fasten

it

a piece similar to

below the mirror

to the

mirror-frame supports as shown in Fig. 199, and your chiffonier will be ready iox finishing.

After making your box furniture either stain oil

stain or give

it

two coats

of paint.

it

with an

It

not necessary to go to the basement or attic

is

to

up a home gymnasium, boys, unless you wish to make large pieces of apparatus, for you can easily equip your fit

own room with dumb-bells,

A call

J

chest-weight, chinning-bar^ hitch-and-kick,

and Indian

Chest-weight, or it,

^

is

STUD

shown

"

clubs.

some boys and Figs. 207, 208, and 209 give the details for making

exercising machine," as

in Fig. 206,

it.

Select a portion of a

HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS which the laths are

nailed.

For cross-piece

A

171

(Figs. 207

and 208) cut a i-inch piece of oak, pine, or white wood, 4 inches wide and 20 inches long, plane it up and bevel its

Two-pulley Scheme. Fig. 208.

— Two

Schemes

for

One-pulley Scheme.

FiG. 208.

Assemblmg

the Weights, Rope,

and Pulleys

of

Chest-weight. Fig. 209.

— Prepare

a Pair of Bicycle Handle-bar Grips like this for Handles.

four face edges.

Locate holes

a, b,

c,

and

d,

2

inches

from the ends, and bore them \ inch deep with a |-inch bit. Spike the board to the wall about on a line with your shoulders, using 20-penny nails and driving them through holes

a,

b,

c,

and d into the studs.

the heads below the surface of the

wood with

Drive

a nail-set,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

172

and

fill

d

holes b and

with chips of

wood

cut to

the spike heads (holes a and

c will

B as

Cut cross-piece

is

shown

in Fig. 208).

long by \\ inches wide, bevel

A

board

its

over

fit

be concealed by strip i5 19 inches

edges, and screw

it

to

with round-head finishing-screws (Fig. 208).

Procure two bricks of uniform size for weights, make

wooden bracket for each as shown in Fig. 208, and strap them to these brackets with a couple of skate, trunk, a

or shawl straps.

brackets at /, I

Drive staples into the backs of the

k,

and

/,

m

(Fig. 208),

placing/ and k

inch to each side of the center and / and

m

directly

under them. Purchase two enameled-iron awning pulleys at a hard-

ware

about 25 feet of sash-cord, or closely

store, also get

woven

clothes-line,

for

lifting-lines

Fasten the pulleys to cross-piece

from the ends. e

and

f in

The

board

These screws

A

and guide-ropes.

B with staples,

guide-ropes are fastened to screws

and

to

g

and h

should be placed

2

in the baseboard.

inches apart, and

should center on the pulleys on strip B. ing the ropes, slip

their

and m, and

h.

lifting

in

\\ inches

them

In attach

^

and f^ then lower ends through staples / and /, and k the weight brackets, and tie them to screws g

You

first

fasten

to screws e

can make either a one-pulley scheme

for

your weights as shown on the right of Fig. 208, cr

scheme as show^n on the left of the illustration. The latter way has the advantage of a longer rope, but costs a little more on account of the extra rope and

a two-pulley

HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS In the

pulleys.

first

method the rope

is

173

attached to the

bracket strap, then run through the pulley and tied to the handle, while in the latter

it

tied to screw i on

is

board A, run through a pulley, slipped over the bracket

and then slipped through the upper pulley and

strap,

tied

to the handle.

The handles which,

if

are

made from

you haven't an old

bicycle handle-bar grips^

pair,

may be purchased

Glue a wooden plug

10 or 15 cents.

for

open end

in the

of

the grip (Fig. 209), then bore a hole through the center of

it

tin

and punch another hole through the center

cap on the other end of the grip.

Run an

piece of heavy wire through the holes and the shape

which

shown

in the illustrations, with a

18-inch

bend

it

into

hook through

Leave the bricks

to tie the lifting rope.

of the

in their

them with oil paint, and either stain varnish the woodwork if it is of oak, or paint, stain,

natural color, or stain or

or shellac

A

it if it is

of pine or

whitewood.

Striking-bag with an elastic cord at each end can

doorway by screwing a screw-eye in the head and another in the threshold, to which to tie the cords. The upper screw-eye maybe left in place and But the lower one removed when you detach the bag. easily be fastened in a

for a

bag with a single cord

form for

A

it

to strike against.

it is

necessary to have a plat-

You

can put up

Striking-bag Platform in your

detachable, as

shown

moved and put out

in

of the

room by making

Fig. 210, so that

way when not

it

may

in use.

be

it

re-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

174

Make

the platform 3 feet square, battening together

A, B, and

the boards with strips

D

screw hooks

E

and

of this platform

side

face smooth,

first

over the boards

To

if

with

F

(Fig.

oilcloth

(Fig.

211),

and

Cover the under

into strip B. to

make

the

sur-

tacking several thicknesses of paper

there happens to be any uneven places.

the inside of your

2-by-4

C

212),

2

room door screw

the piece of

inches above your

head,

then

Fig. 214.

Fig. 213.

Fig. 211.

— How to make the Striking-bag Platform. — 212. Fig. Attachment of Strips form Groove Platform; also buckles. Fig. 213. — Block out the Strips thus the Door has Raised Panels. Fig. 214. — Details of the Swivel which holds the Bag Cord. Fig. 211.

to

for

Turn-

if

leave a space wide fit in,

and screw

enough

strip

G

for

end

A

of the platform to

to the door.

If

raised panels (Fig. 210), block out strips

shown at a

in Fig. 2

hardware

1

3.

store,

the door has

F

and

G

as

Purchase two buck-saw tur^ibuckles

and fasten one end

of each to the

/(Fig. 212) put them just high enough so the lower ends will catch in hooks and (Fig. 211) when the platform is slipped between door trim with

D

E

staples, at Z^'^and

;

HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS

F

175

The platform is made solid by turning the The swivel shown in Fig. 214 costs about turnbuckles. The plate / is fastened to the under side of 50 cents. and G.

the platform with screws, the

A" and knotted, and

A

Chinning-bar

(Fig. 215).

A

K

is

bag cord

slipped through

screwed on toy.

very easily put up in a doorway

is

piece of a curtain-pole will do for the bar,

and the socket-blocks

for

it

to set

should be made as shown

in

is

in

Cut the blocks 4 inches square and make the holes a little Fig. 216.

larger than the ends of the curtain-

how

Figure 217 shows

pole.

cut the holes by of little holes

first

boring a ring

and then cutting out

the center and trimming

up with

^

a chisel.

B like out

Make

fic. 216.

Fig. 216. -Socket-blocks for the Chinning-bar.

,

the hole in block

fig. 217.

A, then saw a piece Screw the blocks the top.

that in

of

about

to

to

cut

a

Large Hole,

to the

door jambs

below the door head.

3 inches

The Hitch-and-Kick (Fig. 218) that will give

— How

you a chance

by practicing the high

is

a piece of apparatus

to limber

kick.

The

up your leg muscles plate (Fig. 219)

may

be an o\^pot cover or a cake-tin, with three holes punched

A, B, and C. them at D, and

at

Attach brass chains at this point

of chain 12 or 14 feet long.

at these holes, join

connect the end of a piece

Fasten a small screw-pulley

or a screw-eye in the ceiling (Fig. 218), slip the chain

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

176

through

and bring

it,

the

end down through a screweye and then to a hook which has been screwed door or window

into the

You may have

trim.

long feet to

graduated into

stick,

and inches, with which

measure the heights

your kicks

or

;

piece

short

a

a

through one

you may

of tie

thread

of

of the

Hnks

of

the chain, within a foot or loose end, and

of the

so

then lay off some measure-

ments upon the door or

window /r2;;^, in lead-pencil, in such a way that you can easily

determine the height

218.— The Hitch-and-Kick will give you a Good Chance to Limber

O* the plate

up your Leg Muscles.

sition of the

Fig.

With

the

addition

of

.

a

,

,

pair

.

,

,

by notmg the pothreaded

link.

of

dumb-bells^ a pair of Indian clubs, and

a

wand made by

splicing together two

broom-handles, as shown at A, B, and (Fig.

220),

equipped

"

you

will

have a

gym," without

floor space of

C

fairly well- Fig.

sacrificing

any

your room for apparatus.

219

— How

to

."^t^ick Pla"e'ou; ofan Old Pot Cover.

HOME-MADE GYMNASIUM APPARATUS

177

A V^^^^^-^^^

B d: ygsm

Fig. 220.

— A Wand made of Two Broom-handles spliced together End

A Rack may as

like

A

is

the

board

A

of

Board

End.

your Dumb-bells, Indian Clubs, and

for

made

be

to

the

same

one

illustrated

by

Wand

Fig.

221.

size

the Chest-

weight (Fig. 207) and

is

spiked to the studs in the

same way, while board is

2

Make

2\ inches wide. places for the

and in

wand

and

shorter

inches

bells,

B the

chibs,

shown cutting them

to set in as

Fig. 222,

as described for the

Chin-

B

(Fig.

ning-bar

Screw

216). strip

socket

B,

strip

A

to

Fig. 221.

Fig. 222.

Plan showing

how

to

cut

the Sockets.

Rack

for

Dumb-bells,

Indian Clubs, and

Wand.

Make craft will sisters,

your Christmas

gifts,

boys

your own handi-

;

be better appreciated by your brothers and

the older folks, and the friends and relatives you

wish to remember than anything you can buy, and as the materials

may

be such as

you can save the greater part Christmas shopping.

spend

in

work

to friends

it

will cost little or nothing,

of the

money you

Besides, by

usually

showing your

should be easy to secure orders for

duplicate articles.

many

Probably no material presents as

possibilities

making inexpensive and at the same time attractive You articles as the white cedar wood from cigar boxes. boys very likely know what handy receptacles these

for

boxes are for stamps, coins, marbles, and the hundred

and one other things which your pockets

will not hold,

but here are some ideas for making use of the boxes

which you probably never thought The Material glue, at

and

will cost

finish,

—

any cigar store

of.

you nothing,

— except the

nails,

empty cigar boxes may be procured Pick out a good assortor drug store. as

178

Fig. 334. Fig. 333.

An Express-Wagon.

Fig. 334.

A

Cakt.

CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS ment

of

shapes and

sizes,

place the boxes in a tub or

wash-boiler of hot water and allow the paper labels

179

them

to soak until

and bindings loosen, then, when

paper has been removed, bind the covers

flat

this

against the

bottoms with cord to prevent them from warping, and

When

put them in the sun or near a stove to dry.

the

boxes are thoroughly dry, pry them apart, sort out the

and remove the manufacturers' trade-marks with sandpaper (grade No. o). best pieces

Brads f inch or J inch long should be used for nailing, and the heads should be set below the surface of the

wood and

the holes

filled

with putty colored to match

the wood.

work with two coats The oil gives the wood a beautiful out the markings of the grain. Finish the

A

of boiled linseed-oil.

rich tone

and brings

scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp

jack-knife should be used where

Cutting

is

Do

necessary.

wood, as the grain

is

not attempt to

seldom straight, but lay

split

the

down way in

it

upon a board and score it with a knife in the which you would score a piece of cardboard then break ;

it

along the scored

piece

is

cut in two.

line, If

or continue cutting until the

you use a saw, cut a

little

away

from the outlines of the work and then trim up with a knife

and sandpaper.

The wagons, in this

Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture

shown

chapter were designed with the idea of saving as

J

I

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i8o

much

cutting as possible, and you will see by the

trations that in

many

cases the boxes are not altered.

The Express-wagon shown a Ions

box.

flat

in

Fig. 223

Cut down the sides

Cut the front wheels about

2J

is

made

out or

at the front

construct a seat on top of the sides as 227.

illus^

shown

and

in Fig.

inches in diameter

and the rear wheels about 2| inches in diameter. If you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, you can mark out the wheels Seat

:^

W-

V////y>/A'//A^y /yyy/yy , v. ^^,\>/////^/^/^^/A>

with cups or glass

tumblers.

Cut the wooden axles

as

in Fig. 227,

i

FRONT Axle

axle

Rear Axue

I

— Cross section of the

front of the

making the

than

the rear one,

wagon-box and

the wheels to

nail

ends. tie

have a small toy horse to hitch

The Cart with

its

Make

in Fig.

their

Drive a tack into the a cord to

the

to

it,

or

if

you

wagon, fasten

a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as

upon the two-wheeled

front

then fasten them to the wagon

and

Express-wagon.

shown

for the smaller wheels

— deeper

CENTER-UNE—

Fig. 227

—

\

is

%

shown

cart.

224

is

made out

of a square flat

wheels fastened to the center of the under

box I side.

the wheels about 2^ inches in diameter.

The Auto Delivery- wagon (Figs. 225 and 226) requires two boxes about 8^ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2^ I inches deep. that one box

You is

will see

inverted

by looking

upon the

at the illustrations

other.

Before fasten- i

Figs. 225

and

226.

Two Views

of an

"Auto Delivery- Wagon."

I

CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS

i«i

remove the two ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the front end for the dashboard), and cut 2 inches off the sides at

them

ing

together,

the front and an additional piece

from the sides

end

by nailing

of the

wagon and hinge

wagon-bed with cloth

Tack

a cloth strap.

it

may

Make

two

the dashboard.

wagon

A

to the curtain, so

as

roll,

shown

in the

the wheels and axles like those of

Cut out a small

axles, of equal size.

ing-wheel and fasten

the

a curtain of black cloth to the top

wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels,

the express

to the seat,

ends of

Support the end-gate with

strips.

be fastened up in a

photograph.

also the

the

to

a drop end-gate to the

and sew two cloth straps

cross strip that

strips

Fasten

Nail a narrow strip across the top of the

side pieces.

rear

inch by if inches

upper box for windows.

of the

together

the boxes

i

it

Make

steer-

on a short wooden rod inside a seat

and seat back,

nail the

back

and then fasten the seat between the sides just

of

of

below the windows.

Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 228)

than you might imagine.

is

a simpler toy to

make

The box should measure about

inches by 5f inches by 5 inches. Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth glue one piece to 5|-

;

the inside of the cover and box, side.

and the other

to the out-

Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover,

and below

it

fasten a small

may be bent from

hook onto the box

;

the

hook

a short piece of wire.

A spiral spring from

an old bed-spring

will

do

for Jack's

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

l82

body, but

matter to

you cannot get one

if

make

Take

a spring.

of these,

a piece of No.

wire about 10 feet in length and wind ing-pin or anything that

is

cylindrical

it

a simple

is

it

1

2

gauge

around a

roll-

and about 2^ inches

Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed

in diameter.

tacks upon a piece of

wood cut

to

fit

the inside of the

box (Fig. 229), then procure a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and to this

Make

sew the head.

on Jack's head, covering loose jacket to

fit

a cloth fool's cap to glue

his hair entirely,

and also a

over his spiral body; for these use any

bright-colored cotton cloth that will

Tack

fall

into folds easily.

the base of the

spring

to

the bottom of the box.

Make

the seat for

The Round-seated Chair shown

in

Fig. 230 2 inches in diameter, the

back

5

inches high, 2 inches wide

at the top,

the seat

high by Fig. 236.

Leg

of Din-

ing-table.

;

and 1^ inches wide

cut the front leg ij-

Pedestal of Center-table.

inches wide.

four strips as shown in Fig. 235.

Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter, may be used with which to mark this out. flat

inches

The Round Center-table (Fig. 231) should have a base built up of

Fig. 235.

Select a long

2 J-

at

box

A

saucer

for

The Dining-table shown

in Fig. 232,

and

after

making

Fig. 234.

A

Doll's Cradl

A KoundSeated Chaik.

Fig. 230.

Fig. 231. Fig. 228.

A

Jack-in-the-Box.

A Round

Center-Table.

—

Fig. 232.

Fig. 229.

—A

The Skeleton of

THE JaCK-IN-THE-BoX.

Dining-Table

Fig. 233.

—A Square-Seated

Chair.

Fig. 239.

Fig. 338.

Fig. 238.

A Key-Board.

Fig. 239.

Fig. 340.

A Whisk-Broom

Fig. 241.

Fig. 242.

A Corner

Clock-Shelf.

A Kitchen

Holder. A Cottage Pipe-Rack and Match-Box.

INIatch-Box.

CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS edge

A

of

projecting over that of B.

bracket pieces as

in Fig. 247,

long or front edge

of the

Fig. 247) so that of

shown

D will

project

of

when they beyond

C

C

and

185

Cut the three

then cut \ inch off

E (see

dotted Hne,

are nailed together the edge

and

E as shown

in Fig. 245.

and bracket should be placed under a heavy The photograph shows weight until the glue has set. how to hang the shelf in the corner by means of brads

The

shelf

and screw-eyes, the brads being driven into the under side of the shelf

and the eyes screwed into the wall

them to stick through. A Whisk-broom Holder such

as

is

shown

in Fig.

for

240

is

a gift which any one will appreciate for his or her room.

Make

the back and front pieces

similar

A

and

B

(Fig.

and cut the side pieces

248)

\^

to

inches high by i^ inches

Place the side pieces

wide.

between the front and back

in

putting the holder together.

A

large match-box

handy

is

a very

article for the kitchen,

where the supply

of

matches

Fig. 248.

— Patterns

for

Whisk-

broom Holder.

generally disappears so rapidly that an ordinary size of

or so,

box requires

refilling

every day

and

The Kitchen Match-box shown

in Fig.

241 will be ap-

preciated by your mother, because the large receptacle in

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i86

the lower portion will hold a

upper part

A

box

of the

is

full

box

The

of matches.

intended for burnt matches.

Figure 249 shows the patterns for the different pieces. the ends, C the front of the upper reis the back,

B

FiG. 249.

ceptacle,

and

D of

for

Kitchen Match-box.

the front of the lower receptacle.

sides these pieces

by the length

— Patterns you

will

C for the

need a piece i\ inches wide

bottom

of the

upper receptacle

and a piece 2\ inches wide by the length bottom of the lower one. The photograph

how

to put the pieces together.

completed and given

A pipe

of the

of

D

will

show you

glue a strip of No. o

lower receptacle.

gift suitable for the relative or friend

who smokes

a

is

The Cottage Pipe-rack and Match-box shown 242.

for the

After the box has been

its oil finish,

sandpaper to the bottom

Be-

The

little

cottages are

made out

Fig.

in

of cigar-box

wood,

but the back and bottom pieces (Fig. 250) are cut out of thicker material; i-inch pine, whitewood, or basswood will do.

Figure 251 shows the dimensions for the

cot-

CIGAR-BOX TOYS AND GIFTS tages and the

method

them

of putting

187

together.

As

the

end cottages are match-boxes, cut an opening in the outer

Use glue and |-inch

side of their roofs as in Fig. 251.

t

.-# h

I

H"

-<^

©

^H" H^3f-4— 3i'-^

5f

Fig, 250.

Fig. 252. Fig. 251. Fig. 250.

— Patterns for Back and Bottom Pieces of Cottage Pipe-rack and

Match-box.

— Details of Cottages. — Patterns for Paper Doors and Windows. Fig. 252. Fig. 251.

brads in fastening the pieces, also cloth strips for attaching the roof.

Give the cottages two coats the top

and edges

of linseed-oil, then paint

of the roofs red

(

Venetian red) and

With a rule and pencil lay out the doors and windows upon a piece of white letterpaper, then draw the lines in ink, paint the shutters green and the glass black (use water-colors), and mark off the the under side white.

divisions in the glass with white

then cut these out and

;

glue them on to the cottages as

shown

in the photo-

graph.

After the back and bottom pieces have been cut

9.rLd

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

i88

the holes have been bored in the bottom piece (Fig. 250),

down with sandpaper and

rub them

edge

of the

bottom

nail the

back to the

Give the back piece two coats

piece.

form a pretty

of white lead

and chrome-yellow (mixed

cream

and the bottom piece two coats

color)

Glue the cottages

greejt.

shown

in

place,

to

spacing them as

photograph, then cut out the

in the

of olive-

little

chim-

them red with white caps {yenetia7i red and white lead), and glue them in place. Cut the trees out of a piece of cigar-box wood, paint them green, and fasten them to the back piece with brads. Screw two screw-eyes into the top edge of the back piece neys to

the roofs, paint

fit

and glue a which

strip of

sandpaper below each end cottage on

to strike matches.

and four cottage pipe-racks may be made by changing the proportions of the back and bottom

Two,

pieces,

A

three,

and

made by attaching a single cotsimilar to A, Fig. 249, will be a

Cottage Match-box,

tage to a back piece pretty

gift.

The

cottage

may

center for good and burnt

opening must be cut

Among

the

in

be divided through the

matches, in which case an

each side of the

roof.

many

Other Gifts which

may be made

out of cigar boxes are

a letter opener, a hall letter-rack, a cube-shaped box for

and a handkerUse your ingenuity and work out your own

string, a tooth-brush rack, a glove box,

chief box.

designs for these,

m^fi CHAPTER

XII

CLOCKWORK TOYS

The

shown opposite page 190

toys

many mechanical

are a few of the

toys which can be operated by clock

work, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no

mechanical ability than old

enough

is

more

possessed by the average boy

to handle the simplest of tools.

Generally

it

is

easy to find an old clock somewhere

about the house, and a clock which has been discarded simply because it has become worthless as a timekeeper is

perfectly

mainspring have a

good is

set of

in

for operating these toys, provided the

working

works

for

order.

each

It is

toy, for

fastened in place that but a minute fer the

not necessary to

they are so quickly is

required to trans-

works from one toy to another.

Before

commencing work upon the

The Other Necessary Materials.

toys, get together

These

will consist of

cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads,

and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two additional articles which are mentioned later on. Brads f inch and i inch in length should be purchased for fastening the framework of the toys together, and the 189

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

190

cigar boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by

inches in

2

Remove

size.

the paper from the boxes

as described in the preceding chapter.

To prepare the Clockwork for use, remove case, detach the

hands and

face,

and pry

wheel pivoted directly under the hands

shown

at

Fig. 257.

in Fig. 257.

Remove

— How the Clockwork Motor

(This

B

A

Box has been

(Fig. 257)

cut

down

and the

to the

lever

is

;

it

from

Its

off the small

this

wheel

is

also iho^ balance-wheel

fastened to the Cigar-box Cover.

Proper Length

for the Ferris

C pivoted

Wheel.)

next to

it,

to in-

crease the speed of the remaining wheels.

Fasten the clockwork motor for

The Merry-go-round shown

in Fig. 253 to the cover of

Fig.

A

Ferkis Wueel.

A Merry-Go-Eofnd

Fig. 253.

B

3r)5.

^

Fig. 254.

A Clockwork Motor.

yig. 256.

A Flving

Airship.

CLOCKWORK TOYS

191

a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 254 and 257, boring holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends

on the back

of the

works to

flange from a spool

Remove

of the

formerly occupied by wheel

clockwork

The

A.

in

sealing-wax.

To do

this,

above the spool and melt it

full,

spool,

it is

and make a dent

in

exact center of the hole. a lighted match,

it

is

about half

with the end of a match off

it

on the bottom

of the

with a pencil to indicate the

Heat the end

and press

up with

with a lighted match, allow-

down

compact, smooth

filled

hold a piece of sealing-wax

to drip into the hole until the latter

then press the wax

until

it

the position

hole in the spool

be too large for the pivot and must be

will

the lower

Fig. 257) and fasten the spool

(Z>,

on to the central pivot

ing

set into.

it

of the pivot with

into the dent in the wax.

being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon

Cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar box belonging to the cover to which you have attached the pivot.

the works, for spool

D

to project

through (Fig.

257).

To make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four strips of

wood

8 inches long, and fasten one to

each

corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the

box up; then cut a piece square, locate

its

center

of

F by

from corner to corner as shown hole through

it

|-inch board

drawing diagonal in Fig. 258,

at this point for spool

D

lines

bore a i-inch

(Fig. 254),

then nail the box to the center of the board as

Fig 258.

10 inches

and

shown

in

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

192

laid out

The Tent shoifld be as

shown

upon heavy white paper

After describing a circle with a

in Fig. 259.

radius of 9 inches, describe

another

Fig.

circle

258.— Plan

of

within

Top

it

Fig. 259.

of Stand-

— Pattern

for

Tent of Merry-

go-round.

ard for Merry-go-round.

with a radius of y^ inches, this inner circle (shown by dotted lines in the diagram) being drawn for a guide in fastening the tent upon

its

Cut out the

tent-poles.

along the outer it

— The Tent ready

to be

fastened upon a Tent-pole.

edge

KL

and from

cut a triangular piece about

the FiG. 260.

circle,

tent

that included be-

size of

tweCU

KL

linCS

^hc diagram.

and

ML

in

Covcr the Under

ML

A'Z and the upper edge of with glue, lap over to about 7VX, and rub down the edges with of

a cloth to

make

as neat a joint

possible (Fig. 260).

the standard top (G,

between the pieces as

Bore a hole through each corner

H,

/,

and/, Fig.

of

258), then cut four

CLOCKWORK TOYS sandpaper them

sticks 7 Inches long,

193

until

smooth, and

glue them into these holes for

When

The Tent-poles.

the tent has dried, tack

the ends of the poles, being careful to

upon them

;

and

The Horses.

it

Fig. 261.

to the

edge

A

full-size

all

around as shown

pattern for these

a piece of tracitig-paper

in

shown in or any thin is

— Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round.

transparent paper, and place

make an

set evenly

stick a small flag in the peak.

Take

Fig. 261.

it

to

cut a scalloped border out of red or blue

paper and paste Fig. 253,

make

it

exact copy

;

it

pattern

and

soft lead-pencil

over

over the

then rub a

the other side of the paper, turn the paper over with the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

194

blackened side down, and transfer the drawing six times

upon a piece

of light-weight cardboard.

Paint the horses

with water-colors, using the pattern as a guide for shading

and marking them, then cut them out with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors.

Figure 262 shows the pattern for

The Sleighs. board, cut

it

Draw

this

out upon a piece of card-

out and fold along the dotted lines, then turn

r-§

-1

T -iTT

Seats

L Fig. 262.

in the flaps

back.

— Pattern

and glue them

Merry-go-round Sleighs.

to the

dashboard and to the

Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down

the flaps and glue

make

for the

them

to the sides of the sleigh,

and

the back for the front seat like that on the back

seat (Fig. 263).

Then make another

sleigh similar to

the one just completed, for two are required for the merry-

go-round.

mings

Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trim-

of a lighter shade.

CLOCKWORK TOYS

195

Figure 254 shows

The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted. Cut them ^^ inches long, whittle them round,

and rub them down with sandpaper. fastened in a spool

hub

The

shafts are

w^iich

has five holes bored in

it

(^,

Fig. 254); bore the holes with

a gimlet or small

them

off first

drill,

marking

with a pencil to

be sure of getting them spaced at equal distances.

ends

of the shafts

Point the

and glue them

—a

Fig. 263. ^^^^^'^^^

Completed sieigh Attachment to Shaft.

into the holes in the hub, then connect this spool to spool

D with a piece of a lead-pencil To

the

fasten

horses

through three of them at

to

2

inches long (Fig. 254).

punch

the shafts,

X (Fig. 261)

and

slip

a hole

each one

over a shaft, then tack the other three horses to the ends of these shafts at the point

X.

To

fasten the sleighs to

the remaining shafts, glue one end of a piece of paper to the back of the front seat

and the other end around the

shaft (Fig. 263).

The

Girl Riders for the sleighs are

Fig. 264,

Make

that of the horse

for the horses are

size in

shown

full

size in

tracings from the patterns as you

and prepare four

Paint their clothes in bright colors. for

full

and

The Boy Riders Fig. 265.

shown

each boy

rider, so

girls

and

six

made boys.

Cut a second leg

he can be made to

sit

astride of his

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

196

horse,

and glue the leg

Cut a

slit

in

to his hip as

shown

in Fig. 266.

each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on

o^irl riders in them. the o For the Platform shown directly under the horses and

sleighs in Fig. 253, cut a piece of cardboard 11 inches in

Fig. 265.

Fig. 264.

Fig. 264.

—

Full-size Pattern for the

Fig. 266.

Fig. 266.

— How

the Second

Girl Riders.

of the

Boy

Leg is

At-

tached.

Fig. 265.

diameter;

if

— Full-size Pattern for the Boy Riders.

you choose

the merry-go-round, you

moved Punch

in

to

make

may

the Ferris wheel before

use the center pieces

re-

cutting out the rims, as noted in Fig. 271.

a hole through the center of this disk large

D

E

enough

peg connecting spools and to slip through. This platform rests upon the top of spool and revolves

for the

D

with

it.

CLOCKWORK TOYS

The key by which

To operate the Merry-go-round. the mainspring

is

wound up

is

197

shown screwed

on the under side of the cigar-box cover

in place

Fig. 257.

in

While winding the mainspring, it will be necessary have somic means of checking it so it will not unwind the same time, and the best scheme for a check is

to at

to

bore a small gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar

box and stick a match through

this

and run

it

between

the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent it

from turning.

Then when you have wound up

spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round,

have to do

can

you

to pull out the match.

is

The model him runs

all

the

of this toy

for five

minutes with one winding, and any boy

make one which

directions given

which the author has before

will

run as well

if

he follows the

and uses a reasonable amount

of care-

fulness in the work.

Other Animals than horses follow the arrangement of

may be used

some

rounds, and pictures of these

of the

may

if

you wish

latest

be found

to

merry-go-

among

colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or

if

the

you

may copy them from books and Great fun may be had by changing the

can draw well, you magazines.

boy riders, making them ride backward the time and sometimes two and three boys on a

positions of the part of horse.

Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel,

and a good many of you have ridden

in the smaller

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

198

wheels patterned after

you

A

it,

amusement

at the

parks, so

be interested in making

will

shown

Miniature Ferris Wheel like the one

Fig.

in

255.

The Standard consists of

for

supporting the

wheel

(Fig.

267)

two triangular supports, one with a spool

hub fastened

to

top for

its

the axle of the wheel to run

through and the other with the cigar box inclosing the

clockwork fastened

to

it.

Figures 268, 269, and 270

show the construction Cut

these supports.

P

and

and

P

Q

12

of

strips

inches long

10 inches long, and

trim off the upper ends of

f iG.

ends

267.

— Standard

will

ends of

for the Ferris

p and

Q, SO

nailed

together, the lower

be 8 inches apart; nail strip

P

and

to its support,

glue and wind

Q

smear one it

To

(Fig. 268).

P

are

to the lower

fasten the spool

hub

side of a piece of tape with

several times

269), then set the spool

when they

on top

around the spool (Fig. of the support

and press

the ends of the tape against the sides of strips

P

and

Q

(Fig. 270).

The Clockwork Motor for the Ferris wheel to the cover of a cigar

box

is

fastened

just as that for the merry-

CLOCKWORK TOYS

199

go-round was fastened (Fig. 257), but the length of the box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to the box as square and compact as possible.

make It

very necessary to

is

the

have

axle

bearings

exactly on a line in order to

have

run

wheel

the

in fastening l^^' the cigar box to its sup-

smoothly,

port,

so,

be sure that the cen-

ter of the hole in spool I?

(Fig.

257)

is

with the spool

on a

level

hub on the Nail

support.

opposite

the supports to a

lO-inch

12-inch board, 8 inches by ^ ^

apart,

Fig. 268.

Fig. 268.

— Make

'^'''

Figs. 269 and

and fasten a cigar

270.

fastened to the

box between them for

Two

^°^ the Ferris

^^^ ^

Supports

like

wheel standard.

— How

Top

a Spool

is

of the Support

^^^•

The Station Platform (Fig. 267). To make the Wheel, of

first

lay out the rims

heavy cardboard, using the

for describing the circles,

radii

shown

upon a piece in

Fig. 271

then lay the sheet of cardboard

upon a board and Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful not to run off of the pencil line.

Hubs

them

of the

wheel are spools with

for the spokes to

Spokes

5|-

The

fit

six holes

in (Fig. 274).

Cut

bored in

six

inches long by ^ inch thick for each hub,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

200

and cut a to

fit

slot in

in (Figs.

one end

of

each for the cardboard

272 and 275).

Use a saw

Fig. 272.

Fig. 271.

rirns

rather than a

Fig. 273.

— How to lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.

Fig. 271.

into the Spool Hub. Fig. 272. — The Spokes Fig. 273. — The Rim slipped into the End of the Spokes. fitted

knife in

making the

make

slots, for it will

a kerf of just

the right width to receive the cardboard and will not

be so apt to

split

the

ends

the

of

spokes.

slender

Whittle the hub ends of the spokes to

:6^

in

the

fit

spool

272 and 275). Fig.

274. — A

Spool

Hub

for

the Wheel.

rim into the

the holes

hubs (Figs. In

Putting together the Fig. 275.

-How the

Rims

spokes, Hubs, and

Spokes, Rims, and

i

i

Axles are fastened

the wheel,

Together.

spokes

slots in their ends,

in a

r first

•

i

of

i

stick three

hub and

slip a

then stick the remaining

spokes into the hub, one at a time, and spread the rim

enough so

When

it

can be slipped into their

slots (Fig. 273).

the hubs, rims, and spokes have been assembled,

CLOCKWORK TOYS lay

them aside and get some heavy wrapping-paper

The

To make the Cars. in Fig. 276,

and on

Fig. 276.

it

it

pattern for the cars

you

— Pattern

necessary for laying

will find all the

for the Ferris

Wheel

out to the proper

understood that the unfigured portions the

them.

same

The

or

which

thin cardboard out of

are

20I

shown

dimensions

Cars.

size.

of the

It will

be

drawing

marked upon door and window open-

as those with dimensions

dotted lines at the

is

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

202

ings indicate where the cutting

is

to

be done, while

other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard

finished

it,

illustration

to be

is

making the drawing to get the lines straight, and when you have go over it carefully and compare it with the to be sure it is correct, after which make a Use

scored and folded. of the car

all

careful tracing of

it,

a ruler in

turn

it

over and transfer the draw-

ing five times upon cardboard.

These and your

original

you the required number of cars. Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do punch the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors a J-inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil drawing

will give

;

(Fig. 276), being careful to get the holes exactly opposite.

In folding and glu-

____^

ing

the

cars,

slip

the flaps inside and

bend the they Fig. 277.

— A Completed Car for the Ferris Wheel.

roofs so

will follow the

curve of the ends (Fig. 277).

When

the cars have been completed, cut six sticks 5 inches long, whittle them down until they are about \ inch in diameter,

and sandpaper them

round and smooth.

These

until they are perfectly

sticks connect the rims of

the wheel and form

The Axles from which the cars are hung (Fig. 277). Great care must be used in fastening them between the rims, for they are easily split,

and the best way

to

do

is

CLOCKWORK TOYS to start a hole first

ends of each axle with an

In the

by driving a brad part way

awl, or

drawing

it

;

203

in

and then with-

then drive a brad through each spoke of

one rim into an axle (Fig. 275) slip the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. ;

277),

and

nail the

spokes of the other rim to them.

To mount the Wheel upon

8^ inches long to

its

standard, whittle an axle

the hubs, then hold the wheel be-

fit

tween the two uprights, with the hubs on a

line

with the

and run the axle through the holes (Fig.

spool bearings 255).

Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy

cardboard back and wide, for the steps, the balustrades

Make

Fold the paper or

cardboard.

writing-paper or light

forth,

and

making

after

pleats about

gluing

and glue them

it

to the

^ inch

in place, cut out

edges

of the steps.

enough so there will be about J-inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars the top step low

(Fig- 255)-

After you have

made

a final

inspection to see that

everything has been put together properly, your toy will

be ready for operation, and the clockwork

machinery

I

am

sure that

in motion,

begins to revolve slowly with each

upon

its axle,

you

will

when you

and the little

little

set

wheel

car balancing

agree that you have constructed

a very interesting toy.

The a

"

Flying Airships

number

of cars

" is

a riding device consisting of

suspended by

steel cables

from large

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

204

arms pivoted

When

to the top of a tower.

the machin-

and the motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the center. As the speed of the arms increases, the cars swing out farther and farther, until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the cars some distance above the ground then the speed of ery

is

started, the

arms begin

to revolve slowly,

;

the engine

is

gradually diminished, and the cars finally

This piece

regain their former position.

known You will

also

easy to

of apparatus

is

as an aerostat. find the miniature flying airships (Fig. 256)

making a merry-go-round

construct after

many

Ferris wheel, as

or

of its details are identical with

those of the other toys.

The Standard for the toy

is

made

similar to the one for

the merry-go-round (Fig. 253), except that the top board is

omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the

of the disks

Ferris wheel

removed

in

substituted

is

through the exact center will

fit

cutting out

over spool

D

in

its

rims of the

the

Cut a hole

place.

of the piece large

size

enough

so

it

(Fig. 254).

Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the spool 3 inches

below the top

four horizontal

and

stick

of the

it

into spool

D

;

then

mast fasten a spool with

arms 6 inches long glued

into

holes

Fasten a cross-piece \\ inches long to the end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend bored in

it.

Cars cords.

made

CLOCKWORK TOYS

205

similar to those of the

Ferris wheel with

Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the

mast and then run cords from the top the ends of the

With as

arm

of the

mast out to

pieces.

this toy the cars

cannot be swung out obliquely

on the large flying airships except by Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork.

This can be

accomplished by removing one or two of the wheels the clockwork, but

than one

wheel

merry-go-round

it is

not advisable to take out more

in addition to those

(F'ig.

of

removed

for the

257) because the mainspring would

require rewinding too often to

make

the toy enjoyable.

Of

the

modern

handicrafts requiring materials other

than wood, those in which metal

is

used are probably

the most interesting to boys, for metal principal materials for

chanical nature

;

work

all

an

of

one of their

is

electrical or

and as metal handicrafts require

me-

tools

such as most boys are accustomed to handle, the work probably better suited to boys than to Brass-piercing is

is

girls.

an interesting metal

inexpensive, and the

work

is

simple.

The Tools and Materials Required

:

is

—

craft,

the material

Following are

Hammer Piercing Tool (see Fig. 278)

\" Cold-chisel (see Fig. 278) Flat

or

Half-round

Metal-file

(see Fig. S3> page 25)

Board

(Whitewood or Basswood) i" X 12" X 20"

Pencil, Eraser,

FlLEOTTO A P0|nT

NaUl- set J.D TO

Use one

A PO'NT ofthese

for a piebcer

Fig. 278.

— Some

and Compass

Drawing-paper and Carbon *^ '/8" ROUND-HEAO •

'Escutcheon Pin

of the Tools

and

Materials Required.

Paper

No. 30 Gauge Sheet Brass small work

206

for

BRASS CRAFT No. 28 Gauge Sheet Brass

for large

207

work

Tacks

6-oz.

I" Round-head Escutcheon Pins (Fig. 278) Brass Shanks or Paper Fasteners (Fig. 278)

\" Brass Screw-eyes

Box of No. 20 Brass Chain

Bead Fringe)

(or

(Fig. 278)

Metal Polish and Lacquer

To make

easy the work

of laying out designs

for

the articles illustrated in this chapter, suitable designs are

shown

Those which

at a small scale.

less elaborate

may

be drawn

full size

Enlarging by Squares, which of the small

is

thing to do

first

and marginal

by the process

easy to carry out.

of

Each

sions given

is

^ inch square

(Fig. 281).

to lay out, full size, the outlines

lines of the piece of brass required for the

upon a piece

article

more or

squares drawn across these designs represents

a space on the full-size pattern

The

are

of drawing-paper,

upon the diagram.

using the dimen-

Take one

side of

the

i2-by-20-inch board for a drawing-board and use the other side to

do the piercing on

Then when you have ments

;

tack the paper to the board.

carefully

checked up the measure-

upon the diagram, lay off the squares upon it, making each of those shown ^ inch each way; then number one end of the horizontal lines and letter one end of the vertical lines as shown, and it will

with

those

a simple matter to locate each portion of the

be

design upon your pattern just where book,

for,

it

is

shown

in the

by the lettering and numbering, corresponding

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

2o8

When

squares can be located quickly.

been drawn out

full size, it is

pattern

off the entire

the design has

a simple matter to trace

— outline

and design

— upon

a

piece of brass, by placing a piece of carbon paper between the drawing-paper and the brass and then carefully trac-

ing over the lines with a sharp pencil.

such as stenographers use upon

making duplicate copies

Carbon paper

their typewriters for

of typewritten

matter

may

be

Where two sides of a design are similar (Fig. 285), enlarge one half, make a tracing of it, reverse the tracing, used.

and trace if

it

off

the design

is

upon the opposite

repeated several times, lay

one section and then trace

By doing

this

side of the center-line;

it is

it

off

it

out upon

upon the other

sections.

easier to get all portions alike.

Leave

a margin of about to

\ inch around the edges of the outline turning in. Be sure not to cut out the

allow for

piece

fromi

the sheet until after you have pierced the

design, except in cases where the brass

upon wood,

is

to be

mounted

for the square piece will be easier to hold to

the board during this operation.

When

ready

To pierce a Design,

first

follow the outlines of the entire

design and pierce a continuous row of small holes along

them, placing the holes as close together as possible and

making them

of equal size;

then

fill

in a series of coarser

holes in the spaces between these rows of holes to form

a background to the

design.

As

the piercing tool

tapered to a point, the size of the hole

is,

is

of course, deter-

BRASS CRAFT

209

mined by the depth to which it is driven through the Drive the tool with a hammer. The backo^round brass. holes should not be spaced off in even rows nor in the

form of a pattern, for the effect would be such as detract from the design, but they should

over the field in such a

way

to

be scattered

that the spaces between will

be about equal; this will give the background an even tone.

Wire brushes

are sold for

Polishing the Brass, but you will find that any sort of

metal polish or scouring powder will answer the purpose very well.

Of course the brass

will tarnish

polished from time to time to keep finish

is

in color

put upon

— may

it.

it

and must be

bright, unless

Brass lacquers

some

— transparent

or

be purchased at the art stores, but you

will find

A Home-made

Antique Green Lacquer of the following

formula very pretty and a simple solution to I

part

I

part

make up

:

—

ammonia muriate ammonia carbonate

12 parts cold water

The metal should

be cleaned thoroughly and the solu-

tion should be applied with a brush. of the

Several applications

lacquer will improve the depth of the finish.

With

these

general

instructions in

mind, you can

begin work upon some of the simpler articles illustrated in this

A

chapter.

Tea-pot Stand such as

is

shown

in Fig.

279 consists

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

2IO of a circular

brass

is

wood

mounted.

upon which a piece of perforated Use a piece of ^-inch whitewood or basswood for the disk. Make it

disk

5^1 inches in diameter, cut it out with a compass-saw or other fine saw, and smooth the edges with a wood-file

paper the

or

chisel

Cut a

it.

;

then

sand-

strip of brass of

proper width and length to

form a metal band for the edge Fig. 279.

the base, and tack

Fig. 279.

— A Tea-pot Stand.

Fig. 280.

-Section through With

The

After the de-

Fig. 281.

sign has been laid out

upon

full

brass, the piece

should be cut out before the perforating

is

done and

fastened to the base with

escutcheon pins. a circle about side brass,

to the

edge

.

escutckeou plUS (Fig. 278),

spacing them about f inch apart. pattern for the top brass covering is shown in

Stand.

size

it .

of

of

the

Describe

^ inch

in-

edge of the

locate positions for

A

B

C

D

e

BRASS CRAFT

The edge

pins into the base.

211

of the brass top will pro-

about yV inch over the brass band (Fig. 280). Drive three rug tacks into the base, as shown, for feet.

ject

A

Calendar Board like the one

make

New

a pretty Christmas or

struction

is

shown

in Fig. 282 will

Year's

gift.

Its

con-

similar to that of the

tea-pot stand, with the omission of the feet

and the addition

of a

brass screw-eye screwed into the

top by which to

calendar

small

bought this

hang can

up.

A

usually

be

it

at a stationery store,

and

should be attached to the exact

center of the board by

means of two

escutcheon pins driven through

Fig. 282.

— A Calendar

Board.

the corners of the top margin.

The Pen Tray illustrated

in Fig.

283 requires a bottom

block of the size shown in Fig. 284.

Fig. 283.

—A Pen Tray.

Fig. 284.

Brass

this,

After preparing

— Wood Bottom and

Rim

for the

Pen Tray.

cut a piece of brass of the exact width and length

of the

block and fasten

it

to the top with

escutcheon pins,

spacing the pins about as shown in Fig. 283.

Then

en-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

212

large the design brass,

shown

and perforate

in Fig. 285, trace

to

it

— Design

for

for the left half.)

should be

made

to lap at

File off the top

edge

of the

strip

of

felt

bottom

to the

of

A

Lamp-shade

of

the

tray

sides,

when laid out on shown upon two of

sides appear

sign

is

the

edge

form

to

to the

The ends

to

tray.

the

of

in Fig. 283.

to prevent it is

among

from

it

placed.

the most popular

shows

Fig. 286

six

it

rim smooth and glue a piece

candle shades are

pierced brass articles.

Fig.

and tack

one corner as

scratching any surface upon which

Lamp and

in

284,

a rim

Bottom of Pen Tray. it

bottom block,

shown

as

Fig. 285.

the

around the edge

fit

of the

(Enlarge the right half and reverse

upon

After this has been done, cut a

it.

J inch wide, bend

strip of brass

off

it

and Fig. 287 how the a sheet of brass.

The

de-

the panels, in the pattern:

on one as

will

it

appear

when the background is perforated,

and on the other

wdth the squares marked off

upon

it

larging

to help it.

out the design

The

you

After

in en- Fig. 286.— A Lamp-shade of six

laying

full size, trace it off

Sides.

(See Fig. 142, chapter vi.)

upon each

of the panels.

piece should be cut out, after the perforating has

been completed, and folded along the dotted

lines.

Bend

BRASS CRAFT the brass over the sharp edge of

213

your board.

The

flaps

along the top and bottom edges should be turned in and

Fig. 287.

hammered

flat

— Pattern

for

Lamp-shade of Six Sides.

against the sides of the shade, and the

end edges should also be turned

in

and one lapped over

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

214

Fasten the end edges

the other.

with brass

paper fasteners, or escutcheon pins (Fig. the ends over

upon the

inside.

If

278),

shanks,

bending

you use the

pins,

them off short and clinch them upon the inside by placing them on the head of a hatchet and hammering the heads with a hammer. Chain Fringe is cheaper and more interesting to put on than the bead fringe frequently used upon brass shades.

cut

Figure 278 shows the size which should be bought. this

up into 3-inch lengths and fasten the pieces

Cut to the

lower edge of the shade about ^^ inch from center to center, hooking the opened link on the end of each piece of chain through a hole

then pinching

it

punched through the

brass,

and

Fig.

291

closed.

on the candle-stick

The Candle- shade

in

should be laid out by the pattern in Fig. 288. landscape design to enlarge

it

is

very simple,

will

it

As

the

not be necessary

After piercing and cutting out

by squares.

the piece of brass, snip the top and bottom edges, cutting

out

small triangular pieces as shown,

over the flat

little flaps

and then bend

hammer them down shade. The edge of

thus formed and

against the inside face of the

one end of the piece should also be turned line

on

pattern),

and

this

in (see dotted

should either be lapped over

the other edge and the two fastened as described for the

other shade, or the other edge should be folded out and

one edge hooked into the other as the edges are joined; and the two

hammered down

of a tin

so as to

can

make

BRASS CRAFT neat

a

edge.

215

Attach chain fringe

to

the rim as

de-

scribed for the other shade.

Figures 289 and 290 show two forms of

Shade Holders, the former for an electric lamp and the latter for a candle.

These can be

bought where light-fixtures are sold and cost about 10 cents apiece. The Candle-stick shown is

easy to make, and

in Fig. 291

when is

the

wood ^f"^'-

carefully cov-

ered

289.

with the

brass,

makes

^^^- -9°-

a Fig. 280.

very

neat-ap-

pearing

brass,

292

them.

sizes

together

which are

— Candle-shade

Holder.

•

shows the

of

the pieces of

with

the

designs

to be perforated

First

Lamp-

.^^je Holder. Fig. 290.

article.

rr rigure

—

Electric

prepare

the

upon

wood

blocks for the base, upright, and top pieces,

making them -^ inch

less

than the dimensions given upon the patterns, to allow for the thickness of the brass.

Before fastening the

blocks together, prepare the brass

them in place, lay out ^he designs, and perforate them,

pieces, nail Fig.

291.- A Brass Candle-

stick with Circular

Shade.

The

sidcs should bc

made

in

one

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

2l6

piece and be bent around the corners.

The upper

ing of the top and base pieces should project about

cover-

^ inch

^1" EDGE OF TOP

MO

(CotSto.p lons

ENOytH FO« 4 CD«e&) '

'T

1

i

Fig. 292.

Patterns for Brass Pieces of the Candle-stick.

(Cut the wood blocks Jg inch less than the

dimensions to allow

as

shown

above

for the thickness ot the brass.)

in Fig. 291.

After naihng

the blocks together, glue a strip of to the

bottom

felt

mm

of the base piece.

The "Paul Revere" Lantern shown in

Fig. 293 differs from the lanterns

used in the colonial times only in this respect

—

it

is

lighted

by removing

— A "Paul

Fig. 293.

Revere

" Lantern.

the bottom instead of through a door-

way

in the side.

The door has been omitted

the construction simpler

an exact copy, you

;

however,

may make

with pieces of wire.

For

if

to

you wash to

a door and hinge

this lantern the

it

proper

make make

in place size for

an opening would be 3^ by 6| inches.

The

right-hand portion of the

patterns for the side

BRASS CRAFT

217

296 and 297) shows the main measurements for the design, and at the left the design (Figs.

and top pieces

shown

After

out lines

laying

to

the

measurements given, divide up the spaces between

into

is

the

perforated.

number

made with

design

are

piercer,

and the

The

shown.

of spaces

small holes of the

a

are

slits

cut with a cold-chisel (Fig.

Space the perfora-

278).

shown, and be

as

tions

careful to

the

of

keep the ends within

slits

295^- The

the

Fig. 294.

f^^. Lantern Bottom.

— The

Lantern Sides.

guide-lines

The

on the upper edge

tips

slots cut in the top piece

through the

and hold the top

297),

of the side piece slip

to the

sides

(Figs. 296 and

when bent

over,

two holes near the bottom edge are made receive the pins which hold the bottom in place the

while to

and 295). the ends of the

(Figs. 293, 294,

Fasten

side

piece

together with

shanks (Fig. 294), then cut a circular block of wood to fit in the bottom end of this cylinder (Fig. 295), brass

and fasten to

it

enough diameter the of

sides

a

strip

of of

the

a to

circular

make

lantern.

brass, as

the

lantern are

of brass of a large

projection

a ^-inch

Make

shown

in

beyond

candle-holder out

a

Fig.

295,

The pins for holding made out of two brass

this to the base block.

in

piece

and tack

the bottom

screw-eyes,

E HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

2l8

by filing off the threads, and these are held to the bottom with short pieces of brass chain to keep them from being lost when the bottom is removed for lighting:

the candle.

Before fastening the top to the sides Fig.

2(

BRASS Strip fop lanteon ring

Fig. 298.

A

U,t Fig. 296,

— Pattern of Lantern Sides. — Pattern of Lantern Top. 298. — Brass Strip for Lantern Ring.

Fig. 296.

Fig. 297. Fig.

Cut a

prepare the lantern ring.

shown it

stiff,

in Fig. 298,

bend

and then bend

it

it

over along the center to make

and clinch the ends can are clinched. Wire

into a ring

together like the sides of a tin the ring to the peak as

strip of brass of the size

shown

in Fig. 293.

Marconi's experiments from 1895 to 1899 to devise instruments for the transmitting and recording of messages without the use of wires, resulted of successes

which astonished the

in a

number

scientific world,

but

when he so perfected the apparatus that he was enabled on December 12, 1901, to transmit across the Atlantic Ocean from Newfoundland to England, this crowning success was accepted by one and

all

as one of the greatest

achievements of modern times.

upon by many as depending upon a mysterious phenomena, far too deep for the amateur to understand, it was not long after articles treating at length upon the subject began to appear in the newspapers and technical journals Soon after the that boys started to study into it.

Though

wireless telegraphy was looked

establishment of a wireless station at the Charlestown

Navy Yard, the operators became aware one day that somebody was tampering with their messages, for they began

to pick

unofficial

up remarks, which were

character.

The 219

interference

of a decidedly

became very

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

220

annoying,

and

it

was a number

days before the

of

source could be located; then a crudely arranged mast

upon a shed

roof, a

few squares from the Navy Yard,

furnished a clew and, as might naturally be expected, wires from the

down

top

of

mast were found

the

lead

to

was discovered that two boys had fitted up a home electrical shop and installed a complete sending and receiving apparatus. The where

into the shed

it

investigators were of course greatly surprised to find that they

had been

well imagine their

by mere boys, but you can chagrin when, upon examining the baffled

was mostly home-made and that though part of it was constructed out of nothing more or less than junk, it was serving the purpose of the government's complicated and costly equipment, they found that

it

apparatus.

This just goes to show, boys, that

something out close to

it,

of nothing,

can't

make

you can often come pretty

and that with the things you can ordinarily and

find about the house, the shed,

stores

you

if

you can construct

all

in the

junk

sorts of things,

dealers'

many

of

which your father and men manufacturing those very things the

would not believe could be made except with

materials

customarily

convey the impression by wireless outfit out of

used.

I

do not mean

to

you can construct a but it can be alone

this that

such stuff

;

used to advantage to help out.

Other boys naturally followed

in

the

footsteps

of

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT boy

pioneer

the

and

outfits,

it

time, there

experimenters

making

in

221

wireless

has been estimated that, at the present

are

the neighborhood of five thousand

in

amateur stations

the

in

country,

to

countless thousands of boy enthusiasts

say

nothing

of

who would own

knew what is required, what parts can make, how to do the work,, and how to go

outfits

they

they but

if

Everywhere you go, now, you are likely to see the earmarks of the amateur station in the masts set up on the housetops, used about installing the

outfit.

In Chicago

support the aerials.

to

there are nearly

three hundred of these stations, and in

some

parts of

where the enthusiasm runs high you can count

the city

more of poles within the range of the eye. To show you What Some Boys have accomplished let me quote from

a score or

•

two

Richard Cobb, who

of their letters.

published in the Boston Herald:

I

I

have erected at

receive

all

each night

cutters, the

Rock,

my

it

stations in the

Gresham and is

very

Once

in

Aciishnet,

high-pitched

a while

At 10 o'clock

hear the

two

revenue

in a while I

hear Brant

When

sending a

and sends D.

repeats each word.

o'clock each day. in

I

and once

"I suppose each boy that has a receiving

comes

district.

hear the wireless telegraph station Wellfleet, and amateur

I

which

message

—

house a simple wireless telegraph station.

the government

between times.

stations

Cam-

Massachusetts, writes the following in a letter

bridge,

"

lives in

very loud.

I

set receives

receive the time each day except I set

my

watch by

it

each day.

the time at 12

Sundays.

My

call is I

It

L

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

222

in the Continental

and

I

X

My

Morse code.

the

in

set

comprises a

one pair

silicon detector, fixed condenser, double-slide tuning-coil,

500-ohm

receivers,

10 1 feet antennae and a gas pipe for a ground.

of I

have very good results."

The making

of

the same

forms of instruments as

Richard mentions, with the exception Rindge, also of Cambridge, says

receiving and a very simple

tuning-coil, a silicon detector set

was a good deal

quite a

" All

:

—

began to study wireless telegraphy about two years ago,

before the Republic sent out that famous for

number of

my

Most stations,

better,

sets,

one.

I

had a pair of

but the one

I

now

have

My

D.

I

My

receiver. receivers.

I

think

is

I

just

was only

set

first

consisted of a poorly

It

instruments are home-made.

of the

Q

C

and a telephone

and

is

In the same paper, Fulton

described in this chapter.

" I

of the receivers,

made

second

have had

pretty good.

can send about 10 miles."

boys are highly successful with their home

and with simple apparatus are able

to receive

everything within a radius of 100 miles and to transmit a distance of several miles.

Any boy

is

free to receive

government and commercial station messages,

for this

does not cause any disturbance, but he must not interfere

with such messages^ for such interference has made much trouble and resulted in the enactment of a law forbidding it

under a severe penalty.

The Chicago amateurs have

a society

known

as

The Chicago Wireless Club, and under the guidance of their president, Mr. Royal C. Dickson, a pioneer amateur wireless experimenter and.

now an

expert for one of the

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

223

commercial companies, they are making remarkAt the regular meetings lectures upon able progress. large

the subject are given,

all

are

details

members have had difficulty clearly explained. Each member

the

of

a

and

code card,

large

PRIVATE

upon

the

w^hich

Morse and Conticodes

nental

printed type,

are

large

in

and a sheet

containing list of all

a

the

call

mem-

owKEO

mo

onntrco

ii

about which any in is

understanding furnished with

2

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

24

a wireless outfit, and, realizing that he could give you

boys the most practical suggestions, the author succeeded

him

in getting

to consent to

you the material presented tions

work up and describe

The

in this chapter.

of these models, boys,

lished articles

on wireless

have been tested

Many

out on one of the large lake boats.

of the pub-

outfits describe parts of the

equipment which are very

difficult for a

boy

to

such as the construction of an induction-coil,

boy undertaking the work is

illustra-

have been made directly from the models furnished

by him, and some

it

for

more than

finished

it

is

it

not

will

— and

— a

often discouraged before

half completed, or

that

make,

finds after

operate.

Mr.

he has

Dickson's

suggestions wiU be found easy to carry out, and the

apparatus will work splendidly.

The

illustrations

show, besides the pieces which you

can make, the best forms of the parts which must be purchased. Before undertaking the construction and installation of the wireless instruments,

you should know something

about

The Fundamental

Throughout

all

though nothing stance,

which

and called

is

ether,

for transmitting

Principles

of

space a substance definite

is

is

Telegraphy.

supposed to

known about

colorless, odorless, is

Wireless

it,

and

exist,

this sub-

and without weight,

supposed to have remarkable qualities

vibrations

through space.

You

have noticed how when a moving boat disturbs the

boys sur-

Fig. 300. in

— A Good Way to arrange

the Wireless Instruments

your Room.

upon a Table

(See Wiring Diagram. Fig. 325.)

225

;

2

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

26

body

face of a in the all

form

of

communicated the surrounding water, and that

of water, the disturbance

waves

to

is

other craft within range of these waves start to bob

up and down as soon as they are reached. Now, just for example, let us imagine that a body of water is the ether I

have been telling you about, that there are a number

of yachts,

each

Then of

of

motor

these

let

is

boats,

and other

craft at anchor,

and

that

the aerial of a wireless telegraph station.

us suppose that one of the boats in the midst

the others weighs anchor and gets under way, and

upon the water represents the transmitting of a message through the ether, and each wave which rolls out from the wake of the passing boat represents a dot or dash of a message, and you will get a pretty good idea of how a wireless message travels that the resulting action

but the waves in the ether (they are netic or fact,

Hertzian waves)

known

2^^

electromag-

travel very rapidly, so rapidly, In

that they are recorded practically the instant that

the electric discharges are made, no matter what length of space they

Electricity

have is

to travel

through.

used by which to produce the waves

sending a wireless message, and in our small is

in

outfit this

obtained from batteries, the current from which

is

passed through an induction-coil to increase the voltage

and then jumped across the space between the ends

of

two metal rods of a piece of apparatus known as a sparkgap^ producing a spark whose duration determines the (/^/ and dash (these are used in "wireless" just the same

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

227

The

current

codes of the ordinary telegraph).

as in the is

then carried by the wires to the aerial wires and

discharged in

it

directions, in the

The earth has

discharges.

and

all

electricity will

that

when aerial

is

of a

the

form

of

tliere

long and short

a great capacity for electricity,

run through anything connected to

proper conducting material.

Therefore,

waves produced by the discharges from an

spread out,

all

the aerials within their range which

them

are groMiided receive

same

just the

as the lightning-

rod receives the lightning discharges, and the current

runs of

down

into the

lightning runs

The long and

ground

down

in the

same way

that a bolt

a lightning-rod into the ground.

short discharges are recorded by

means

of

telephone receivers after they have been regulated by a

number

which

of pieces of apparatus,

be taken up

will

later.

The

first

thing to consider

The Aerial or antennce. undertaking rests so

is

The

success

much upon

this that

be the best that can possibly be made. aerial results

whole

the

of it

ought

With

to

good

a

can be secured even with inferior instru-

ments, but the most excellent instruments will not

re-

Two

things

should be figured upon, the height and the length.

Each

spond when connected to a poor

is

aerial.

important, and the longer and higher the aerial

better the results will be.

high

at

one end and

the

should be at least 30 feet

It

at least

is,

50 feet long.

vertical, horizontal, or slanting,

It

may be

but usually the best

re-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

?28 Si:

*^:l

are obtained

when

it

is

supported horizontally

or

between two supports (Fig. 301). A very satisfactory aerial is one which is 70 or 80 feet long and 50 slai'-ting

Fig. 301.

— The Length of the Aerial Mast can be reduced by erecting

a Roof.

Use Two Masts

if

One End cannot be supported

as

it

upon

Above.

more high. With such an a'erial and the instruments described upon the following pages receiving can

feet or

be accomplished within a radius of several hundred

Of course the dimensions of the aerial will necessarily depend upon the character of the place, and if the masts are erected upon the housetop or the roof

miles.

of a shed, the height

can be obtained with shorter ma-

terial (Fig. 301).

The wire,

aerial should

have not

and eight or ten are

less

better,

than

six strands of

and these should be

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT Spaced

i

A

foot apart (Fig. 302).

end

require a spreader at each

229

six-strand aerial will

5 feet

6 inches long and

an eight-strand aerial will require one 7 feet 6 inches

THESE Wjnti SHOULD BE AT LE AST 50 'EtT LONG

Should be 5P
Fig. 302.

1

fOOT

— How to construct a Six-wire Aerial or AntenncB.

These can be made of any Hght, strong pieces of wood. The heavy end of a bamboo fish pole furnishes excellent material as it is very light as well as tough and

long.

The

strong.

wires should not be fastened directly to

the spreader, but

first

Ordinary porcelain

302.

lent insulators

and cost

cleats less

you cannot get these, necks After

stead.

wires

the

shown

spreaders as

shown in Fig. 303) make excel-

to an insulator as (Fig.

than

i

cent a piece, but

of bottles

been

have

may

be used

fastened

to

if

in-

the

in

the diagram of Fig. 302,

and

ropes

attached

have

to

been

screw-eyes

Fig. 303.

— Porcelain

Fig. 304.

— Battery

Porcelain insulator.

^leat.

screwed into the spreaders near the ends, rope stays

must be run from these ropes back to the spreaders as

shown at the

in Fig.

;

otherwise, the spreaders will

bow

in

center and cause the center wires to slacken.

Any and

302

this

sort of wire, except iron or steel,

may

be bare or insulated.

may be

Bare wire

is

used,

cheaper,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

230

but sometimes the builder

of course,

may have

The

wire on hand that can be used to advantage.

should not be smaller than No. 1 6 B.

insulated

wire

& S. gauge, and larger

No. 14 being standard for small outfits. The wire leading in from the aerial must be insulated

wire

is

better.

very carefully at the point where

by passing

it

it

enters the house,

A

through a porcelain insulator.

insulator (Fig. 304) will serve the purpose.

Figure 300

shows how a hole may be bored through the top the upper sulator.

window sash

large

enough

battery

rail of

to receive the in-

This wire must be supported on insulators

wherever support

is

necessary,

all

the

way from

the aerial

to the instruments.

The Masts which support the

aerial

should be equipped

with pulleys, like rigging a flagpole, so that the aerial

may

be

hoisted

or

lowered at any time for repairs.

Clothes-line pulleys such as are

171) and a stout rigging.

The

hemp

poles

shown

clothes-line

must, of

in Fig. 208 (page

may

be used for the

course, be

strongly with wire stays (Fig. 301), and

braced very

good idea and /, Fig. 212, page 174) to set in turnbuckles (see If one end of the so that the stays may be kept taut. aerial can be run down to the house and fastened to it is

a

H

the window-frame, as in Fig. 301, of course only one

mast

will

be necessary.

Grounding the Aerial.

When

not in use, the aerial

should be disconnected from the instruments, and be

connected to the ground wire, as a precaution against

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

The ground

lightning.

wire

fastened to a water-pipe

is

or to a metal rod driven 6 feet or

ground connection

is

one

into the ground,

makes an

A pump

deep well

will

good

excellent ground,

but where none of these are installed, other

be adopted.

A

of the essentials of a wireless

In cities a water-pipe

outfit.

more

ways described below.

or in one of the other

231

means must

with a pipe extending

down

to a

be satisfactory, or a metal plate placed in

any stream or lake and connected

to the

instruments

will

work very well. If none of these are available, connection must be established by digging down to moist earth, embedding a sheet of metal of 10 square feet or more of surface,

upon

it

and then pouring several bucketfuls of brine before replacing the earth dug from the hole.

The buried

plate

may

be of any metal except iron or

steel.

A

wire should extend from the switch of the instru-

ments

to the £'ro2C7id wh'Q {Fig. 325).

Instead of removing the aerial wire from the instru-

ments

after use,

handier scheme

and connecting is

it

between the

throw, double-pole knife switch

six is

to the

ground

wire, a

to get a doiible- throw, single-pole knife

switch and connect

331.

it

aerial

shown

in

and the doubleFigs. 325

and

This switch has three connections instead of the

on the double-throw, double-pole switch, and the

aerial

connected at the center, the ground at one end, and

the wire from the aerial connection on the switch in Fig.

325 to the other end.

shown

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

232

As many boys this will

A

are satisfied with a receiving set only,

be described

first.

Good Receiving Outfit consists of one or a pair

of

and condenser,

to

telephone receivers, detector, tMumg-coil,

which a pote^itiometcr and a dry battery and a second condenser must be added

when

a detector of the micro-

Of these the The Telephone Receivers must be purchased remaining instruments can be made by any boy. The

phone type

is

used.

;

cheapest good

telephone

consisting

receivers,

receivers

of

two

mounted on

a

head-band with a double connecting cord (Fig. 305) cost about $4, while a single receiver without a

Coil-Sl»der

TO- Detector /or TO- Battery

head-band (Fig. 306) can

.

POTENTIOMETEfy

Fig. 305.

— A Good

be bought for about Fig. 306.

Pair of Telephone

A

Receivers with Head-band and

Receiver,

When

Single

.

a buying ^ ^

$2.

resinsfle ^

cciver, take care to get one

a part of a double

that

is

set,

so that you

Cord.

the other parts as you can afford them, and thus

may add make up

a complete set without having any unused parts

left over.

The

ordinary receiver such as

not at

all

especially

ohms

sensitive enough.

made

receiver

The

for " wireless "

resistance (see

used on telephones

is

receiver should be one

and should have 1000

Ohm, on page

may be used

until a

is

"

An

252).

wireless

"

ordinary

one can be

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

233

obtained, and interesting results can be secured with

much depends on

but as so

good

a

receiver,

it,

most experi-

menters have a pair and pride themselves on possessing a very sensitive set.

There are a great many types of Detectors, some of which require a battery in conThe detector nection, while others work better without. " waves into such is necessary to change the " wireless form that

will

enable the telephone receivers to render

them audible, so that each wave and be distinguished easily.

The silicon

very best

detector

and as the experimenter without

made

at certain

of

batteries, a

detectors

be given

first.

of

Microphone Detector, you

from dry

buzz

supply houses,

some good

of easily obtainable materials will

For making one form

like a

usually anxious to proceed

is

descriptions

delay,

sound

the silicon type, but as

is

can be obtained only

will

will require

two

flat

wood base about f inch by

carbons 3 inches

by 4 inches, four binding-posts (these may be taken from carbons

copper, or

dry

old

of

tin,

batteries),

a needle,

some

and a paper

strips

of

brass,

fastener, or other

small piece of metal, for a weight.

Figure 307 shows the completed detector and Fig. 308 how the pieces of carbon should be cut from the battery a

sharp

carbons,

how

should be tapered to

and how the brass, copper, should be cut and bent. Cut the carbon

edge with a

or tin strips

their ends file,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

234

pieces

ij inches high and the brass pieces 2^ inches

Cut the projecting

long by the width of the carbons.

shown a means

on

tips

as

space

of

the

top

edge

of

the

brass

pieces,

preventing the needle which spans the

between the carbons from being knocked

off,

End to a Sharp edge thus

/-File >\^

5E"CT10(si

Fig. 309.

A Home-made

Fig. 307.

Microphone Detector.

(See Fig. 326.)

Fig. 308.

How

Fig. 309.

Section showing

to prepare the

Carbon and Brass Pieces.

how

to fasten the Pieces Together.

and make the edge between the carbon tops (see

on the carbons

Punch places

holes for

Fig.

only,

309), as

tips

the

lower than the

needle

must

rest

and not touch the metal anywhere.

through the brass pieces in the proper

connecting them to the carbon pieces, and

make others for connecting them to the base block. The carbons should be placed parallel and about i inch apart. The needle should be considerably longer

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT than the distance between

its

235

bearing points, and

the

paper fastener, or other metal weight, should be placed at the center to

amount

right

make

it

bear upon the carbons with the

By varying

of pressure.

the weight the

most satisfactory adjustment can be found. should the weight be heavy, for not operate at

will it

method

of

it

is,

the

you bend the needle

be easier to keep

will

it

in position.

detector slightly,

The

proper

connecting the detector to the other instru-

shown

307 and 326. Razor Blade Microphone Detector requires a base

ments

A

If

all.

if

In no case

is

in Figs.

of

the size specified for the other detector, two old blades

from a safety

razor, four binding-posts, TO POTENTIOMETER

two

strips of

SLtDEB;

TO Condenser no. 2 ,TO TONiNG-CorLSLIDER;

'Also to telephone Receiveps

Fig. 310.

— A Safety-razor Blade Microphone Detector. (See Fig. 311. — How to prepare the Brass Pieces.

Fig. 310.

Fig. 326.)

brass, copper,

detector

is

shown

The metal in

Fig.

or

311,

tin,

and a No.

3

lead-pencil.

This

in Fig. 310.

strips should

be cut and bent as shown

and holes should be punched

through

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

236

upper part opposite the center hole In the razor blade and in the center of the lower part, as shown, the

connecting the blades to the strips and the

for

to

When

block by means of the binding-posts.

the

strips

resemble, somewhat, the

completed, this detector will

one previously described, the razor blades being placed The No. 3 pencil parallel and about i inch apart. should be of

split

placed

it

open, the graphite removed, and a piece

across the blades just as the needle was

The

placed across the carbons in the other detector. projecting tips should

be cut on the brass pieces, as

shown, to prevent the graphite from the pencil

jarred

or

wave

and

wave has actuated

tapped before if

The

when

Silicon

the

very quickly. sized

lump

Detector

silicon

strip of

enough (Fig.

is

too hard,

Silicon

it

will

best degree of hardness

is

is

easily

undoubtedly

is

the it

not be is

found

made and best,

and

can be made

not expensive, a generous-

Figure 312

of this detector.

should be held to a base block by a

brass having holes

punched through

for the bolt of a binding-post to stick

313),

is,

must be

it

it,

usually being sold for 25 cents.

silicon

If

be ready for another

has been obtained,

shows a simple form

The

will

This detector

No. 3 pencil. works well.

in a

The

it

the graphite

sensitive enough.

off.

the detector will not restore, that

soft,

"wireless"

after a

;

is

rolling

and a small piece

of springy

it

large

through

wire should

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

shown

be bent as

in

Fig. 314

and be secured

end to the base block by a binding-post

way will

press very lightly on

the

silicon,

as

shown

in

Fig. 312.

In using this de-

tector the

end

which

spot

The

found.

is

silicon

most sensitive

the

until

Fig

NJING-COIU Si_iotR; Also to

SwITCh.

moved around

should be

wire

Fig. 312

—A

Fig. 312.

Fig. 313.

— Strip

Silicon

this

Silicon

De-

(See Fig. 325.)

is

of Brass with which

held to Binding-post.

—

Bend a Piece of Wire like and connect as shown in Fig. 312.

Fig. 314.

silicon.

Home-made

tector.

must never bear heavily on the

such a

in

of the wire

on the

rests

one

at

end

other

the

that

237

Since no two wireless stations, probably,

exactly the it

have exactly the same

same adjustment

would be very

of the

size aerials, or

sending instruments,

difficult for different stations to

municate unless some arrangements were made

to

comcom-

pensate for the differences in construction and adjust-

ment.

The

simplest device for this

tuning, as

it

is

called, is

The Tuning-coil the outfit tor has

The

or Tuner.

a very essential part of

been completed. tuner consists of a single layer of wire

rolling-pin

the pin

is

and should be constructed as soon as a detec-

upon a cylinder not

A

It

is

may be

less

than 2\ inches in diameter.

of just the right size, left

on

it

wound

to turn

it

and the handles

of

by while winding on

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

238

For a cylinder

the wire, and sawed off afterwards. this thickness, a length of

a sufficient

amount

1 1

of wire.

inches

is

necessary to secure

The tuner should be wound

&

with copper wire not larger than No. 20 B.

and not smaller than No. or any other

wire

obtain that which

but as

best,

it

24.

Do

The

enameled.

can be obtained

supply houses, you

may

S.

gauge

not use cotton-covered

kind of insulated wire,

is

of

you can

if

latter is the very

only from the larger

not be able to get

it,

in

which

case you will have to use bare wire.

Before winding, give the core two coats of shellac; this will

form a yielding surface

and

keep the wire

will

in place

for the wire to cut into

even though the wood

core shrinks after the coil has been completed.

you

If

use enameled wire, simply fasten one end to the rollingpin with a tack, near

its

end, and have an assistant turn

the pin while you guide the wire on to

it

closely and

you reach the other end then secure the ware with another tack and cut it off, leaving about 12 neatly, until

;

inches for connections.

more

difficult to

The

bare wire will be a

wind than the enameled

wire, as

little it

will

be necessary to keep each turn from touching the adjacent turn by winding a thick thread, or thin cord, in

between the wire as thread on at the

Even though ter

this

is

shown

in Fig. 316,

winding

this

same time that you wind the wire. requires some patience, it is much bet-

than winding the tuner with the ordinary cloth insu-

lated wire

and then attempting

to scrape bare the strip

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGkAPH OUTFIT along which the sliders run.

wound, give adds to

its

it

239

After the tuner has been

two more coats

of shellac (this not only

appearance, but helps to keep the winding in

ROLLING-PIN

Fig. 3 1 7,

— A Home-made Tuning-coil or Tuner. Fig. 316. — How to wind Thread between the Turns of Wire Fig. 315.

if

Bare Wire

is

used.

Fig. 317.

Prepare

Fig. 318.

How

Fig. 319.

Use

place),

Two End

Pieces like This.

the Sliders should be cut and bent. this

Form

of Binding-post.

then cut off the handle ends of the rolling-pin.

Two

end pieces 2f inches square and f-inch thick, with J-inch notches cut out of two corners (Fig. 317), should

now be prepared and screwed

cylinder, to support

it

and the

to the ends of the

slider rods.

The

rods

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

240

should be of brass of the size marked in Fig. 315, and two l^-inch holes should be drilled through each near

one end, and one other

The

end.

hole through each near the

|^-inch

rod can be procured

machine shop, and you can

also get

almost any

at

the holes

drilled

there for a few cents.

The

sliders

round

off

one end

end into a square rod,

made

Cut two pieces

sheet brass. 318,

should be

of thin

of the size

of each,

sleeve, as

but very springy

shown

and then bend the other

shown, to

fit

over the slider

and bend the rounded end so that

make

against the tuner and

contact with

should have another very slight bend

rounded end

it

it.

made

form a spring that

face as shown, so as to

in Fig.

will bear

Each

slider

in its

upper

keep the

will

in perfect contact with the wire.

When

them on

to the

rods and screw the rods to the end pieces with

small

the sliders have been bent properly, slip

round-head screws.

enameled

wire, the

enamel must be scraped

along the path of the used, the shellac sliders with

the tuner has been

If

slider,

and

wound

off carefully

bare wire has been

if

must be removed from the path

sandpaper.

The

with

sliders

of the

must make good

contact both with the square rod and the wire winding, or the wireless outfit will not operate.

Fasten a one-hole binding-post such as

is

shown

in

Fig. 319 in the two remaining holes in the rods, and fasten

shown.

an ordinary binding-post to one end piece as Fasten the end

of the wire

winding to the

last-

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT mentioned

post,

and the apparatus

will

The proper connections

stallation.

241

be ready for

in-

marked

in

are

Fig. 315-

The Fixed Condenser. edge

of electricity,

the part

such

a

it

would be hard

played by the big difference

received that

it is

Unless one has a

condenser in

knowl-

fair

him makes

to explain

however,

;

the strength of

necessary to use one.

—

to

it

the signals

When

a micro-

Cut 2 PIECES OF CARDBOARD AND 21 SHEETS OF WRITINGPAPER Like this

Fiti. 320.

.2*-

Fig. 321.

Fig. 322.

Figs. 320-322.

— Details of a Home-made Fixed Condenser.

phone detector is used, a second condenser must be wired up in connection with it as shown in the wiring diagram (Fig. 326).

The

materials

required are a few sheets of

which can be procured from any

florist,

tin-foil,

some sheets

good writing-paper, cardboard, and some ordinary tire Cut as many sheets

of

in Fig. 320, of the size tin-foil

cardboard and paper as

is

of

tape.

specified

shown, and the number of pieces

of

indicated in Fig. 321 of the shape and size shown.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

242

Begin building up the condenser by placing one

of the

upon a flat surface; upon this lay a the paper, then on this place a sheet of the tin-

pieces of cardboard

sheet of foil

with the tab projecting at the

end; over this lay

left

another sheet of the paper, and then place another sheet

on top

of the tin-foil

the right end.

the tab projecting at

this with

of

Continue

up the condenser

to build

this

way, reversing the tab on the alternate layers of

foil

(Fig. 322)

in

tin-

have been used.

until all of the sheets

Over the top sheet of paper lay the second piece of cardboard. Cut two pieces of insulated wire 12 inches or so in length, bare one end of each, run them through the ends of the cardboard top, and give them a couple of twists (Fig. 322); then carefully press together the projecting

tabs

on the

tin-foil,

and wind the bared ends

of the wires

around them as shown on the right

end

in Fig.

By

323.

run-

ning the wires through the card-

board as directed, whatever strain

— The

FiG. 323.

is

Fixed Con-

denser

is

ering

as above with Bicycle

Tape.

it

completed by cov-

(See Figs. 325 and 326.)

...

minal wires

will

cardboard and not

.-.,

tm-roil.

ttt'i

the delicate •

i

i

With the terminal wires

in place

wrap the entire condenser with

ning

one end as shown

at

upon the tercome upon the

brousfht to bear

in Fig. 323,

turn partly over the previous turn.

tire tape,

begin-

and lapping each

One

of these con-

densers should be connected directly across the telephone receivers

as

shown

in

Figs. 325

and 326, and when

a

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT microphone detector

243

used, a second condenser should

is

be set in between the detector and the switch (Fig. 326). If

you have constructed the siUcon detector

do not care to use any not be necessary to

will

A will

and

the other forms described,

of

it

make

Potentiometer, but with a microphone detector you

require one.

purpose

Its

is

to regulate with great

precision the battery current in the receiving is

first

made

like the tuner, except that

instead of

two and

is

much

it

circtiit.

It

has only one slider

smaller (Fig. 324), and must

TO RECEIVEPS Also to

DAy-CELL

Fig. 324.

— A Home-made Potentiometer. (See Fig. 326.)

be

wound with German-silver

This wire ounces

inches long

not

be expensive to buy, as about two

be enough, and this

will

25 cents.

Wind

v/ill

wire instead of copper.

A is

amount

costs about

piece of a i|^-inch curtain- or rug-pole 8 of

ample

size for the cylinder.

thecylinder with a layer of No. 24 bare German-

silver wire, separating the

between as directed

turns with thread

wound

for the bare-wire tuner (Fig. 316).

in

In

the tuner only one end of the winding was connected to a

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

244

binding-post, but in of

the wire

making the potentiometer each end

must be attached

Give

to a binding-post.

6 WlBE Ae CSee Large DEXArt)

r^5Vt

^^ Switch

—

* r= Battery Where Silicon Detector is used A Potentiometer and Battery ARE NOT NECESSARY- (SEE

10

in

Scrifs-Parallcl'

TRANSMITTING SET

Receiving Set

Fig. 325.

Dry Cells

FlG.32a)

— Complete Wiring Plan — when a Silicon Detector

the coil a couple of coats of shellac, then slider similar to the

make

ones made for the tuner

;

is

used.

a rod and

screw the

rod in place to the end pieces and fasten a binding-post

The

to its end.

slider

must make good contact with

both the wire and the slider rod.

This

completes

the

receiving

instruments.

They

should be arranged upon a board or table in some such

manner

as

shown

in Fig.

300 and wired up as shown

Fig. 325 or Fig. 326, according to

With

which form

in

of detector

you should, be able to hear commercial companies for a distance of a hundred miles, with the proper aerial, and all amateur stations in is

used.

your

vicinity.

either receiving set

The arrangement

discussed upon page 248.

of the instruments

is

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT The Transmitting receiving

set, for

Outfit

nearly

all

Is

245

more expensive than the

of the instruments

have to be To MAST OP OTHER SupPOBt'

Kev --I

X

BATTERY

10

Receiving

Fig. 326.

ORV CELLS

Transmitting Set

Set

— Complete Wirino; Plan — when a Microphone Detector

purchased, as they are too complex to make. fit

IN SERlES-PARALLiL

is

The

used.

out-

consists of an mduction-coil (spark-coir), spark-gap,

battery, key,

The

and switch.

Induction-coil (Fig.

327) consists of a few layers,

usually three or four, of a large size of Insulated copper Batterv

Zinc-,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

246

many

a great

this is called

is

it

which to send out are

layers, of a very fine wire;

As

the secondary.

part of the chapter,

alone

many

turns, in

"

explained in the

first

necessary to have a spark with

The dry

wireless " waves.

cells

not capable of producing the right kind of

spark as their voltage

is

But by sending a

too low.

cur-

rent of a few volts' pressure through the primary of the coil

another current of quite high voltage will be induced

secondary

in the

;

in fact, the voltage will

jump

cause the electricity to

depending on the

be sufficient to

across a considerable gap, Coils are usually rated

size of the coil.

according to the length of spark they are capable giving.

The

rent, so

an hiterrupter

coil will

of

not operate on a continuous curis

used in connection with the

primary.

A will

I

-inch coil costs about $5,

send several miles.

A

and with a good

-|-inch coil

cheaper than the i-inch, while

its

is

aerial,

only a

sending radius

is

little

less

than one half as much.

The Spark-gap can be made by binding two battery /To

Sccondabv or

TO'SECONOADVOP'

Fig. 329.

zincs

shown

— A Home-made Spark-gap.

on the secondary terminals in

of the spark-coil, as

Fig. 328, or a simple frame

may be made

to

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

shown

hold the zincs, as

in

Fig. 329.

If

you make a

shown

frame, set in a couple of screw-eyes as

247

for set-

screws.

The

may be

induction-coil

operated by dry

cells or a

storage battery.

A

Storage Battery

satisfactory

expensive in

is

and cheaper

cost,

first

but more

Sometimes

in the end.

a

good

second-hand one can be bought cheap at a near-by garage.

Dry

Batteries, or

dry

cells,

can also be obtained from a

garage, where they are discarded

an automobile

these are

;

The

the "wireless" coil.

dry

but

cells,

if

another

one next to

is,

it

all

ten

in

(Fig. 333), connect each five

parallel.

of

multiple (Fig. 333). to

complete set of

connection If

end

is

five cells

add more

five,

in series

is

cells (Figs.

known

cells

325

as series-

the zincs are joined together, also

all

carbons, the

and you wish

of the

one pair of end

of the other pair of

When

series,

cells in parallel, or 7nnltiple;

This form of connection

^^d 333).

cells

can be obtained, they should

connect the carbons

and the zincs

the

i-inch coil will require five

five

and then connect the end

all

too

connecting the carbon of each to the zinc

is,

that

weak to spark plenty good enough for

Instead of connecting

also be used.

that

still

when

as there

cells,

must

called parallel, or

are used in a series

you must add another be the

same

7ium.ber of

in each series.

The

dots

and dashes

of the telegraph

code are made on

'

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

248

The Wireless Key (Fig. 330), which makes the spark

jump

how

for a longer or shorter period of time according to

A

pressed.

good cheap key

costs about 50 cents,

a full brass key about $1.

As

the aerial

ceiving,

used alternately for sending and

is

some means must be employed

re-

for connecting

To Battcrv^

•TO-P«IMARV OF iNOUCTION-COIk

Fig. 330.

To SROUNO

— A Good Form of

Fig. 331.

— A Double-throw,

Double-pole Knife Switch.

Wireless Key.

the sending instruments and then in turn the receiving

instruments.

This

is

accomplished by

The Knife Switch shown

in

Fig.

331,

known

This

double- throw, double-pole kjiife switch.

as

a

will cost be-

tween 30 and 50 cents, according to where purchased. The connections are marked upon the illustration of the switch and are also shown upon the wiring diagrams (Figs. 325

and 326).'

By studying of

the diagrams you will find the manner-

connecting up

all

the instruments clearly indicated.

This should not be done ranged upon a board or

A

Good Arrangement

have them

in

until after they

table.

for the

have been

ar-

Figure 300 shows Instruments

your bedroom, and that

is

if

you wish to

where most boys

generally keep them so that they are always within easy

you haven't a desk or table in your room, you can construct one similar to one of those illustrated in reach.

If

— A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT Chapters

The

VI and IX.

idea

is

to place the instruments

Screw the base

where they can be operated handiest. each instrument to the table to keep

When

Operation of Instruments.

mitting set

box

spark-coil

buzz,

will

of

in position.

it

the key of the trans-

pressed, the vibrator on the

is

249

and a shower

of

end

of the

sparks will

jump across the gap between the zincs of the spark-gap. When the aerial and ground are not connected to the spark-coil,

rated

as

it

a

give a long spark (about

will

i-inch

coil),

enough; but when the

i

inch

provided the battery

aerial

is

if it is

strong

and ground are attached,

one to each secondary binding-post of the

coil,

—

it

will

be impossible to get a spark longer than ^ inch, as the aerial

and ground

will

be acting as a "capacity"; that

the coil will be carrying a "load."

If

is,

the coil gives a

good spark with the ground connection, but no spark at all when connected to the aerial, it shows that the insulation of the wire leading in from the aerial is defective This wire must be supported on insulators

somewhere. at every

pomt from

To Receive a

the aerial

Call.

If

down

to the switch.

two complete stations are erected

within a few miles of each other, one station should begin calling

the

other at

certain

times

previously agreed

upon, while the operator at the station called should listen

carefully

through his receivers, slowly moving

backward and forward the

sliders

on

sionally adjusting his detector until

calling him.

When

his tuner

and occa-

he hears the station

the station ceases calling, the receiv-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

250

ing operator should throw over his switch and answer.

Each

station should be designated by a call^ usually the

initials of

The amateur should

the owner.

not do things

haphazard way, but should become familiar with the

in a

regular practice used in commercial wireless

To

government and commercial

receive

must

know

of course

know who

stations

you

their calls in order to be able to

The

calling.

is

stations.

pamphlets containing

all

electrical journals advertise

the principal stations, which

can be purchased for lo or 15 cents.

To make a

Suppose

Call.

station

CGS

station

CMW, He

several

times and at intervals signs his

this:

proceeds to

CMW CMW

and then

CGS\

the letters

call

own

call

CMW

call,

like

followed by a slight pause,

then he repeats the operation, finally

ending by making the operator at

CMW,

wishes to

J,

which

CMW

is

When

the finish signal.

picks up the

call,

he does not

answer until he hears the J signal; then hearing nothing else, he knows definitely that the operator at CGS has stopped calling, has placed his switch in position for ceiving,

Two

and

is

waiting for him

(CMW)

re-

to answer.

Codes are used in " Wireless," the Morse code and

While there is not very much difference between the two, the Morse code is used almost entirely in this country and is the one you the Continental code (Fig. 332).

should learn.

The

do/(s

and dashes

of the

code

v/ill

be

heard through the receivers as short and long buzzes.

Adjust the

sliders

on the tuning-coil

until

the signals

^

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT

251

and adjust the sHder on the potenthe same way if you use one in your receiv-

are heard the loudest,

tiometer in ing

Do

set.

not regulate the latter

so that the current cell

have

from the battery

too strong, for

is it

a

too

little

Morse

it

is

better to

weak than so

strong: ^

Way

Good

to learn the Code

is

1... 'l.\

o

•

After the code has been

rized, a friend

may

can sc7id on the buzzer

•

;

take your turn sending

while he receives.

period,

well as the letters, should be -

rized, as

.

.

it

is

7^

J ^

'.ZZ.

J

Z'SL

.

memo-

-

punctuation and numerals. interested

in

_"3_

',

i

.1111.

3 A

.

a very great mistake to

Although any boy

'

^

7— JT.*

get a smattering of the alphabet and neo^lect the

^

".Z7S

as

—

•*

',",,]

and question mark,

—

n p

A good buzzer costs

In learning the code, the numerals,

—

l.

''J^^

about 25 cents.

comma,

h u

memo-

while you copy the message he sends

then you

f

— —

ordinary electric buzzer and one dry

"^"'

Q

to

connect your telegraph key with an

cell.

—

—

that the detector will not operate.

A

continental

A B

—

5 v 9

— The

yig. 332.

Two Wire-

"wireless" can successfully install and

Codes used

operate an outfit from the directions ^

m!!..^^ !f!^T ,r.n^ gencode L' is Morse

given, visit, if

it

will

be a very great aid to

possible,

for the use

some amateur

and purpose

station,

of the different

erally

used

in

in

this

country.

instruments will

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

252

be better understood and

from seeing them

While many

many

valuable

gained

ideas

in operation.

units are used in

Electrical Measurements, only three

by the amateur operator.

need be considered

These are the

volt,

the ohm,

and the a^npere. The Volt

is

the unit of electrical pressure,

The Ampere

Ohm

The

is

is

the unit of current strength, and

the unit of resistance.

The

latter

is

prob-

ably most readily understood by those not familiar with

Any

electrical work.

wire, sheet-metal,

conductor of

carbon-rod,

electricity,

such as

offers resistance just

etc.,

as the sides of a ditch offer resistance to water flowing

through that

ditch.

If

the ditch were

cement, the water would flow through

made it

of

smooth

more

readily

the sides were of rough projecting logs.

In the

same way some substances have low resistance

to elec-

while others have high resistance.

Silver

than

if

trical currents,

has the least resistance, copper comes next, iron has considerable,

much

and an

that

it is

alloy,

known

as

German

used for making resistance

other purposes where resistance

silver,

coils

has so

and

for

is

required (see Poten-

in a ditch

unless forced to do

iiometer).

Water so.

If

will not flow

the ditch

ran

down

the hillside, of course the

water would flow downhill in the ditch, and the steeper the

hill,

the greater the pressure would be.

way, electricity will not flow unless there

In the same is

a pressure

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT behind

it,

readily

it

and the higher the pressure

is,

as this

the more

{voltage),

will flow.

The ampere that

253

represents the broadness of the "ditch,"

the depth and breadth of the " stream of water," is

decidedly a differ-

ent quantity than the pressure

behind

it. Di-TS

A

2<,>

A

better understanding of

ampere

the volt and the

will DRY-CELLS WIRED

IN

"SERIES"

DRr-CElLLS WIRED

IN

SERIES-PARALLEL

5

be gained through

The ohm grasped when it work.

practical

readily

is is

learned

that about 150 feet of No. 18

copper wire has a resistance of

I

ohm.

Connection of Dry Batteries. Batteries, or,

speaking,

dry

connected in (also

more properly

known

cells,

series,

may

be

parallel

as multiple), or a

10

Fig. 333. of

combination

both

of

called series- parallel.

ways,

These

connections are described under Dry Batteries on page 333.

Now

for

and amperes. whole

set will

an application If

— The

Three Methods

Wiring Battery

Cells.

(Showing 5 cells and the voltage and approximate amperage obtained by each method.)

247, of

and shown

in

Fig.

the two units, volts

the cells are connected in series, the

have the combined voltage

of all the cells,

but the current in amperes will be only that of one cell

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

254

the cells are alike and uniform)

(if

are

connected

all

only one

while,

;

each dry

and 20 amperes,

cell is

five cells

333) would give 5 times

amperes.

If

be that of

in parallel, the voltage will

be equal to the combined amperage of if

the cells

but the current strength, or amperage,

cell,

example,

if

all

will

For

the cells.

capable of giving

1.5

volts

connected in series (see Fig. 1.5

volts, or

7.5

volts,

and 20

they were connected in parallel, there would

be no change like this in the voltage, which would

main

1.5 volts

or the voltage of a single

cell,

re-

but the cur-

rent strength would be 5 times 20 amperes, or 100 am-

peres (Fig. 333). It is

not

difficult to

cells in series-parallel.

determine the result of connecting In Figs. 325 and 333 there are

ten cells connected in series-parallel, five cells in each of

two

series.

but

when

Each

and 20 amperes,

the two sets are connected parallel, the com-

bined output will

set will give 7.5 volts

will

be 7.5 volts and 40 amperes, which you

understand from the examples given.

borne in mind, however, that while a dry as

high as

amount

20 amperes by

test,

this

is

It

must be

cell will

give

an excessive

draw from it and would exhaust it Four or 5 amperes is as much as in a very short time. should be used, and if more than this is required, the As mentioned cells must be placed in series-parallel. before, each series of a series-parallel combination must of current to

contain the same of three

number

of cells.

For instance, a

set

cannot be put in parallel with a set of four, for

A BOY'S WIRELESS TELEGRAPH OUTFIT the voltage of the four set

three

set,

and

it

set

and

set

in time exhaust the four set.

ordinary spark-coil requires considerable current,

pays to lessen the heavy burden on the battery by

using two series in parallel.

each

greater than that of the

and a current would flow from the four

through the three

The

is

255

series,

but

Four

five are better.

cells

may be used

for

About

show

the best kind of

for a

neighborhood

boys, a boys' club, or a school organization to give in

of

is

one

which each boy can do a special act or "stunt."

It

may

be an exhibition of magic-lantern views, a sleight-

of-hand performance, panorama or puppet show, boxing-

match, or one of an endless variety of entertaining

acts.

The strong man, magical mortar,

boy with a wonderful

and ventriloquist

acts described in this

voice, crack-shot,

chapter are easy to prepare.

Sam Dow,

the strong

man

(Fig.

334),

should wear a

long-sleeved shirt with the shoulders and sleeves padded

out to form large calves of his legs

muscles, ;

if

this

and should

pad the

padding throws the muscles

out of their natural positions, so

For the great

also

much

the better.

act of

Holding out a Chair upon which a

Boy

is seated,

you

will

need an old seatless chair or a box with the ends

knocked out and two uprights and crosspieces nailed to Drape the chair or box with it for a back (Fig. 335). a sheet or a piece of cloth of any kind large 256

enough

to

FOR A

Fig. 334.

BOYS'

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

— Sam Dow, " The Strong

257

Man/' holding a Seated Boy

at

Arm's

is

held

Length.

hang down

to the floor all

around when the chair

out at arm's length (Figs. 334 and 336), leaving the seat

opening uncovered.

Next get a pair

of short trousers,

stuff the legs, fasten a pair of stuffed stockings

to the knees,

fit

the feet into a pair of shoes,

and then fasten the legs in

Fig. 336.

seated

to the chair, as

The boy who

is

upon the chair stands

in the seat

shown

to appear to be in

the

opening

with the waist of the false trousers

fastened and concealed under his coat (Fig. 334).

While the chair stands on the rests

on

his knees, but

when

floor,

the boy ^ ^^' ^^^*, Framework

the strong

•^

man

of Chair.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

258

grasps the back of the chair with his hand and com-

mences

boy slowly

to Hft, the

the position

Two

arises to his feet, taking

shown by the dotted

lines in Fig. 334..

attendants should carry the chair on to the stage,

and the

"

seated

"

boy should hold on lift

and

to the sides

his feet so as to give the

boys an actual load to carry

Sam Dow

After

in.

has

held the chair by each hand,

and then by one audience

will

with laughter

finger, the

be convulsed if

the chair

allowed to remain in the

is

air

a few seconds after he has

upon

released his hold

A Fig.

336.

—The

Draped Chair with

False Legs * Attached.

away

"

ance

of this kind.

the trick in

it.

great deal of additional

fun Can always be furnished t to the audience by givmg j.

i.i

some such manner

•

^^

1

•

after a perform-

The famous

Make

Dumb-bell Lifting Feat must not be overlooked. the

2000-lb.

dumb-bell like that

preparing each end

out

shown

Make

curtain-pole or iron pipe;

struck by the strong

man

Fig.

337,

two barrel-hoops crossed

of

at right angles with the cross-piece

center (Fig. 338).

in

A

fastened in the

the handle out of a piece of if

the latter

to

is

used,

it

show the audience

can be that

it

FOR A really is

made

BOYS'

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

Fasten the ends of the handle in

of iron.

A.

holes bored through cross-pieces

with cloth, then on top of this place

Cover the hoops

enough padding

to

— How

Fig. 338. the

259

Ends

are

Constructed. Fig. 337.

— The Strong

Man's

Heavy Dumb-bell.

fill

out the flattened portions and

make them

perfectly

round, and cover the padding with black cloth. the handle black and letter the weights

Paint

upon the ends

with white paint.

A

couple of boys should drag the dumb-bell on to the

stage, then

by

Sam Dow

should demonstrate his strength

upon

lifting

it

with each hand, holding

balancing

it

on end upon his head, lying down upon

back and

lifting

teeth

by means

handle.

it

with his

of

feet,

a piece

of

and

it

lifting

it

his chin, his

wath his

rope tied around

the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

26o

The

man may

strong

demonstrate his ability as a

juggler by

— croquet

Juggling with Heavy Balls

or bowling balls

covered with silver or black paper, and he should intro-

duce as a special attraction Bonehead, the

which

man

with a head of solid ivory, upon

can be dropped without any

500-lb. cannon-balls

apparent

effect.

must be used

Two

balls

in this stunt

basket-ball for one,

of

exactly the

same

size

— an association foot-ball or a

and a large bowling

for the

ball

you can get them, otherwise use a croquet ball and a rubber ball of the same size. Cover the balls with black paper or tin-foil to make them

other are just the things

if

look as nearly alike as possible.

Sam Dow allow

should

first

pick up the heavy ball and

upon the stage floor to let the audience solid then he must pick up the rubber ball were of the same weight and with an aptoss it into the air so that it will land upon

to crash

it

see that

it is

as though

it

parent effort

;

the head of Bonehead. as soon as

it

bounces

Sam Dow

off of

should catch the

Bonehead and

toss

side of the stage out of view of the audience.

ing sound should be

made

make

it

to

one

side.

The

A

to

one

crack-

the instant the ball strikes

Bonehead, and a louder crashing noise when throws

it

ball

Sam Dow

strong man's stunts always

a big hit.

The Magical Mortar (Fig.

339).

Get a sugar

barrel

from your grocer and a packing-case about 30 by 30 by

FOR A 40 inches

in size at a

struct the mortar.

them

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

dry-goods

If

store,

261

out of which to con-

the barrel has wire hoops, fasten

wooden hoops, staves with small nails. Knock out barrel and saw away part of one side,

to the staves with small staples

;

if

them to the bottom of the shown in Fior.

fasten

the as

little

of

one end

the

barrel

to

of

A

the box for end

fit

of in

set

end

inside of the

box

(Fig.

339);

(Fig. 339)

hoops

its

a

— v"^

and cut aw^ay a

340,

B

BOYS'

and fasten {D,

Fig.

340) to the box sides.

Make

the bearing

blocks

as

shown

Fig. 339.

— The Magical Mortar. Fig. 340. — How the Barrel Cut. Fig. 339.

at

is

C(Fig. 339) and tack a piece of cloth over

end

Cut a 20-inch opening

in

B and

to the

one side

edges of the box.

of the

box for a door

(see dotted lines, Fig. 339).

The Professor exhibiting the mortar must have two assistants,

box,

No.

and No.

i

2 to

to operate the

wait upon him.

The Wonderful Hat

Trick, the

an old derby, fedora, or straw

mortar from within the

For

hat, a duplicate of

has been placed inside of the mortar, and in of

the

audience tear

it

take

professor should

which

full

view

into bits, then put the pieces

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

262

bag

into a paper bag, throw the

into the mortar, and

shoot the hat from the mortar in a whole

Of course

as the mortar

throws out the

bag

in the

after

The mortar cans

duplicate

having

hat,

it,

first

placed

i

it

of the torn hat.

charged from the

is

by having some one a

discharged assistant No.

removing the pieces

standing behind

"

is

condition.

nail

keg "powder

and the report

is

produced

sheet-iron with

strike a piece of

hammer. Other Mortar

dog

in the

mortar and

of a string of sausage, in a similar

The

Stunts. fire

may

professor

place

a

out his "remains" in the form

and transform

sorts of things

all

manner.

Assistant No.

2

should wear a false-face in order to

be prepared for

The Professor's Final Exhibition.

"gun powder,"

Having run out

of

the professor sends assistant No. 2 for

more, and after he has gone, moves the mortar to one side of the stage in such a position that assistant No.

can crawl out through the opening in the

i

The

side.

professor no sooner turns around to the audience than

there

is

the sound of a terrific explosion (strike a piece

of sheet-iron with a

hammer), and what appears

the assistant's body

is

thrown upon the

to be

stage, with

its

head, arms, and legs dismembered.

The

professor

"powder," then

mourns the thinks

announces that he

will

of

loss of his assistant

the

put the

magical

man

mortar

and and

together again.

FOR A

He

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

BOYS'

members

gathers up the

263

of the body, places thern

mortar, goes out and rolls a barrel of

in the

powder

"

"

moving the mortar back to the center of the stage, loads and discharges it. Instantly the assistant jumps forth whole and very much alive. Of course he crawls into the box, through on to the stage, and

after

the hole in the side, while

is

it

over

at

one side

of the

stage.

Make

Dummy

the

Assistant,

thrown

in at the

time of

the explosion, out of old clothes, ripping off the sleeves

and legs

of a coat

and pair

Make

part with newspapers.

upon

of trousers

a stuffed head, and fasten

a false-face similar to the one

it

and stuffing each

worn by the

assist-

ant so the heads will look exactly alike.

great

success

front

in

in

curtain

this

voice,

are

proved a

He

an amateur vaudeville.

curtain stretched

a

of

back of

boy with a wonderful

the

Falsetto,

stands

across the stage, and

four assistants,

— two

boys,

one with a bass, the other with a tenor voice, and two

Your

voice.

you out

At the

one with an

girls,

first

sisters will

in this

the

alto,

left

verse

probably

unseen part of

of

the

the other with a soprano

stage

be

of the

the

willing

to

help

performance.

young

vocalist sings

a song in panto7ni7ne, while the as-

sistant with the tenor voice stands directly

behind him

on the other side of the curtain and does the actual

Responding

singing. certain

to

receive,

to the

Falsetto

applause,

bows,

— which

he

is

walks over nearer

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

264

the

center of the

second verse

in a

he moves a

little

his

voice

sings

changes

the fourth

stage,

and goes through with the

soprano voice

for the

;

third

farther over to the right, to

verse

bass; and at

and here

an alto voice he

in

extreme

the

verse

right

of

the

stage.

With

a

little

practice a

boy

will

proper expression to the mouth

you

will find that this act will

;

be able to get the

and when well done

make one

of the biggest

hits of the show.

The Ventriloquist who throws his voice into the mouth of a doll in such a way that it sounds to the audience as though the doll were actually speaking

always a good

is

entertainer. It is

make

ter to

A

a simple mat-

Ventriloquist's

Doll (Fig. 341), and

if

you haven't the power of

throwingyourvoice

and talking without moving your lips, you can obtain just about as Fig.

341.— The

Ventriloquist operating the

Speaking Doll.

good

having

results

an

by

assistant

behind a curtain back

FOR A

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

BOYS'

265

do the talking while you operate the

of the doll

doll's

head and mouth.

Make

the head framework (Fig.

and buy a

strips,

C

<^\

inches

long,

E5

inches

long,

and

F

inches

false-face for the face.

\6

A

and

A

long. Fig. 343.

B

between

C,

strip

2[^

Fasten the end of

Cut

B

4 inches long,

and

342) out of i-inch

Fig. 342. for

and center

of Ventrilo-

quist Doll.

E upon B and C

— The Doll's False-face. Fig. 344. — Complete

Fig. 343.

Cut

(Fig. 342).

— Framework

Head

the false-face as

Framework

shown

Body.

in

Fig.

of DolTs

343, tack the upper portion to

A

strips

4

nail.

the

;

E

Fig. 344.

Fig. 342.

D

342 and 343), and the chin to strip pivot the end of and C with a between strips

at 1,2,

at

and

and

3 (Figs.

D

With mouth

a rubber

a

jaw

in place,

open and close

to a nicety.

Fasten

D

and a piece

of string

little

will

B

care in pivoting

band between

A

and

with a small ring tied to

its

D

(Fig.

F

B

and

342). C,

and

Set strip after

under side

of

between the lower end

of

end

fastening

lower part round as shown.

the

it

to the

in place whittle

the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

266

Cut the body

strips

H and

in length, the foot blocks

the shoulder cross-piece

/

344) 30 inches 6 inches long, and

(Fig.

/ and K G 15 inches

Nail the

long.

pieces together as shown, and fasten a barrel-hoop to

H and

strips

I2X L\ bore a hole

center of

in the

G

F

to turn in. enough for the neck strip With the framework prepared it is a simple matter to put a suit of clothes upon it and stuff it out with rags

large

Paste paper across the eye-openings

and newspapers.

and paint the pupils with water-colors back

of

build out the

;

the head with paper and cover

Fasten a collar and necktie around the

it

with cloth.

neck and

doll's

a pair of stuffed gloves in the ends of the sleeves for

Pin up the

hands.

tails of

the coat, so you can reach

the end of stick F, and slip your finger through the cord

jaw-manipulator.

Prepare a conversation to carry on with the several songs for to

talk

entirely

with him.

upon how

head and jaws time

him

with the

doll, select

and request your audience The success of this act depends to sing,

well the ventriloquist manipulates the

of the doll

talking

and keeps the movements

assistant.

If

there

is

in

enough

space behind the curtain for the assistant to walk from side to side of the stage, the ventriloquist

may

carry the

doll about.

Willie Shute, the crack shot of the world, shoots portraits

upon

audience.

targets,

an act

which

will

interest

any

FOR A

BOYS'

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

The Targets are easy to prepare. pieces

fresh

grocery

of

store.

(Fig. 345)

267

For these get some

heavy manila wrapping-paper Sketch

upon one

a

simple

outline

of

the

at

a

head

sheet, then get a piece of small brass

tubing (an old gas-burner

will do)

and

file

one end to a

Fig. 348.

Fig. 346.

Fig. 347.

Fig. 345-

— The Outline of the " Portrait shot out by " Willie Shute." — The Reverse of the " Portrait showing the Paper Strips the Holes. Fig. 347. — The Blank Paper which the Audience " Willie Shute." Fig. 348. — Blunderbuss made "

Fig. 345. Fig. 346.

"

over

first sees.

for

sharp cutting edge.

Lay

the sheet upon a piece of lino-

leum, and, with the tubing as a punch and a

hammer

to

punch out holes along the sketched outline (Fig. 345). Lay this punched sheet upon another sheet of the same kind of paper and mark the location of each hole, then cut away all except enough to cover the holes. Tack the punched sheet upon a wooden frame, strike

it,

"

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

268

stretching the paper as tight as possible, then fasten the cut-out portion of the second sheet over the back of the

Make

holes with small paper strips (Fig. 346). portraits, also write out the

whom you

ence

on which

names

of a

few

several

of the audi-

expect, and for a final stunt have a target

to shoot the

words

The frames should be

"

Good Night

!

row upon a

set in a

table

and

be surrounded by draperies to conceal the assistant be-

hind them.

from

The

thrown upon the targets

light should be

in front, to prevent the holes

from showing as a

result of shadows.

Willie Shute announces that he will shoot the portrait of a

boy upon the

aims

at the target

As

trigger. off the

first target,

then with a small gun he

and commences

fast as the trigger

to

cock and pull the

snaps the assistant tears

paper backing, beginning at

A

(Fig. 346).

The

audience will see nothing but a blank piece of paper first

(Fig. 347), but as each hole

up black

in

one

A

fastening a tin funnel upon the

you haven't a toy gun, you can a stick and attach some kind of trigger If

a clicking sound.

Program Board upon which

your performance long and

show

shot.

make

12 Inches

will

(Fig. 348) an entire portrait can be

whittle one out of that will

it

gun

of a toy

made

uncovered

With

(Fig. 345).

A Blunderbuss made by end

is

at

by 18

C and

is

shown

In size,

D8

to

announce each act

In Fig. 349.

Make the board

and cut strips^ and

inches long.

of

B

\6 inches

Paint the board white

FOR A and

letter the

paint.

BOYS'

word

Cut the

'^

"

VAUDEVILLE SHOW

Program

"

269

across the top with black

7iu7iiber'' slips

4 inches by

19,

out of

cardboard, and letter the names of the acts upon them.

Hancv

this

board at

one side of the stage

where an attendant can reach to

it

easily

change the num-

ber

slips.

Have the boy who owns a print-

^

M.

sPROGRAM SAM DOW B

u Fig. 349.

— A Program Board.

ing-press

Print the Admission Tickets, with the type set up in the

form used

for theater tickets.

You may have your own moving

home by

pictures at

making

A Simple Machine such as shown consists

cardboard cyHnder with

of a

sides,

which

base

fastened

is

slots cut

mounted upon end

the

to

are

while the pictures of

This toy

in Fig. 350.

a

in its

wooden a

stick,

made on

strips

of

cardboard and represent a man, horse,

dog, or some other subject, in action,

drawn in just the would appear in a

positions in which

it

photographs

series of

The

taken in rapid succession.

strips of

pictures are placed, one at a time, inside of the cylinder close Fig.

350.— AMov-

ing-picture Machine.

it

is

sides

pivoted,

in,

then the cylinder .

,

around by means

,

.

,

01 the stick

and by looking through the

you see a number

ever the figures

upon

facing

the sides and

to

of

is

whirled •

i_ upon wnicn i

slots, in

the

men, horses, dogs, or what-

may be, moving

just as they

would appear

the screen at a regular moving-picture show. 270

MOVING PICTURES

271

The Wooden Base for the cardboard cylinder

make

thing to

first

about

inch

-^

Upon

(Fig. 351).

thick

describe

is

the

a piece of board

a

5J inches in diameter with a compass, or if you haven't a circle

compass, hunt up a jug or china saucer of this diameter and

With

out around

its

saw or

coping-saw

a

rim.

mark

a scrollwill

it

be

easy to follow the circle in sawing out the base, but with a large

saw

Fig. 352 it

will

be necessary to cut corners of the

off first the four

board close to the

circle,

then the

eight corners thus produced, then the

sixteen corners, and

until

it

is

as

so

on

round as you can get

Fig. 351.

— The

Base

for the

Cardboard Cylinder. Fig. 352.

— The

Spool

and

Pencil which are glued to the Base.

it,

and then

finish off

the edge with a chisel and sandpaper.

Bore a ^-inch hole through the center

of

the base,

then get a lead-pencil 6 inches long (or whittle a stick to

same size) and three spools, two of which will fit The holes tight upon the pencil and the third loose.

the

in spools of different shapes vary a trifle in size, so prob-

ably you will find that mother or sister has just what

you want. spool it

A

Push the upper end

of the pencil

through

\ inch projects (Fig. 352), cover the spool with glue, and stick it through

so that about

and the top

of

the hole bored in the base (Fig. 351); then press spool

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

272

A

against the base until

it

is

on to the pencil and glue spool

glued

Con

fast.

to the

Slip spool

end (Fig.

B

354).

For the Cylinder get some light-weight cardboard that will

be easy to

tf-i|-

cut,

mark out

a piece 3^ inches wide and If-

Sl.

-|fM

'

3"

cu

— Pattern for Cardboard Cylinders.

Fig. 353.

inches long (Fig. 353), and mark off the ten slots at equal distances apart. Cut out the cylinder with a pair of i6-|

shears or a sharp knife, then tack

its

lower edge to the edge of the wooden

shown

base, as

in Fig. 354,

and glue

the ends of the cardboard together.

The Clown and Ball Pictures (Fig. 355) are

shown four

pieces, as are

The Circus Horse and Hound Pictures (Fig.

356).

Each

set

together end to end will just

when make

joined a strip

long enough to reach around the

inside

of

drawn full do will be piece of transfer

the size,

cylinder.

so

all

you

them

They will

are

have to

upon a transparent paper and then them upon a piece of heavy to trace

off

paper or light-weight cardboard, plac-

FiG.

354.

— The

Com-

pleted Moving-picture

Machine.

MOVING PICTURES ing the ends

continuous

A, B, and

strip.

To

C

273

together so

as

to

form a

hold the strips in place against

number of small brads into the top of the base just far enough away from the edge so the strips will slip between them and the cylinthe sides of the cylinder, drive a

der (Fig. 351).

To operate the Toy, hold

it

by the middle spool with

one hand and make the cylinder revolve by turning the

bottom spool with the other hand (Fig. 350). The Automobile. Figure 357 shows a modern adaptation of an old form of optical illusion. Give the book

Fig. 357.

— Give the

Book a Circular Motion and see

a circular motion, at the

the Automobile Run.

same time looking

steadily at

the center of the picture, and the wheels will immediately

appear to revolve and the machine to run.

By

cutting out a side view of an automobile from a

magazine or newspaper advertisement and mounting

it

Fig. 355.

— Moving Picture Set No.

i.

Fig. 356.

— Moving Picture Set No.

2.

274

J

®

*•

K •c

rhe Clown and

Bi

hall.

^ ff Adapted from

M lybridc/e's

*'The Circus Horse and Hound." 275

"Animals

in Motion.'

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

276

upon a piece disks of the

of cardboard,

same

size as the

then preparing two circular

wheels with a series of con-

upon them

shown in Fig. 357, and pasting these over the printed wheels, you will have this optical illusion in a more convenient form to handle

centric circles inscribed

Fig. 358.

— The

Revolving Wheels.

The

as

inner wheel runs in the opposite

direction from the outer wheels.

and

in

such shape that you can carry

it

about in your

show to all your friends. Another interesting optical illusion is The Revolving Wheels shown in Fig. 358. By giving the book a circular motion and gazing at the center of pocket

to

;

MOVING PICTURES the

Illustration the outer

rapidly, just as those of the

wheel that in

will turn

If

wheels

will

277

begin to revolve

automobile did, and the inner

very slowly in the direction opposite to

which the outer wheels run.

you own a pair

of

compasses, you will find this

tration very easy to lay out

cardboard.

The

upon a piece

of

illus-

paper or

inner circle should be described

first,

then a larger circle upon which to locate the centers of the outer wheels should be

—A

drawn with the same

center.

Gaze steadily at the center of the picture, draw the book up to your face, and the boys will appear to come together lower and raise the book in succession, and you will see a lively boxing-

Fig. 359.

match.

Boxing-match.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

278

and the radius

this larger circle will

of

be the proper

spacing for the centers of the wheels.

An

illusion of

interesting

an entirely different kind but no

is

The Boxing-match shown

in

for looking at this are printed

You may make motor

less

cycles,

The

Fig. 359.

below the

directions

illustration.

cards with pictures of automobiles,

and aeroplanes

in similar positions, as

it is

easy to find side views of these machines in the adver-

tisements in magazines

;

then when you have mounted

these at the proper distance apart, you will have a set of

moving

pictures showing automobile

smash-ups airship

and motor cycle

— which are now common occurrences — and — which we probably witness

collisions

within a short time.

will

(TBr^

CHAPTER XV A SNOW BATTL

Here, boys, battleship

addition

is,

of

snow fight. A snow construction, really a snow fort, with the

is

in

a

turrets,

fighting-tops (Fig. to

A

make and adds little

to do,

new

idea for a

conning-tower,

This extra equipment

360).

greatly to the sport of a

carpenter work

and

all

may be done to the spot

The

pieces

may

is

snow

necessary, but this

is

sawing and a good portion indoors.

mast, and

funnels,

is

easy fight.

simple

of the nailing

then be carried

on which you are going to build the ship and

set in place.

The

central portion of the ship, directly below the con-

ning-tower and

known

as

The Central Station, requires a framework such as

shown

in

Fig.

Out

of

any boards you can get

similar

to

that

361.

make two frames

driving three or four

nails

clinching their ends.

The

diagonal strips, but this will

is

is

be held rigid enough

shown

in

Fig. 362,

through each corner and corners

may

be braced with

not necessary, for the frames

when embedded

in

snow.

Cut

two boards 3 feet 6 inches long for the cross-pieces 279

E

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

28o

and F, and enough boards to roof the top of the

Fig. 361.

On

same length with which

framework.

— Framework of the Central Station.

the site selected for the battleship set up the two

frames as shown in Fig.

E

of the

and

F between

nail roof

board

G

them

361

;

2 feet

fasten the cross-pieces

above the ground, and

in place; leave a

space of 22 inches

for the conning- to wer^

then roof the rest

of

the top with the boards

you have cut

for the

purpose (Fig. 361). If

there

is

plenty of

snow, Build

the

Hull

your battleship Fig. 362.

— Make Two Frames

like This.

on both

sides,

there

not

is

of

alike

but

if

enough

A SNO'V BATTLESHIP do

to

this,

281

stand the framework against the fence or wall

and build only one side. Figure 361 shows how the hull should be marked

snow with

out in the

bow and about

the

of

and by

taper from

inside

bow should be

the

of

stern about 4 feet from the framework.

illustration

built up,

The

from the central station framework, the

7 feet

inside

The

stern.

the sides converging toward the

a

shows the stern end this

you

will see

of the hull partly

how

the sides should

thick base to a thinner wall at the top.

The inside of the walls should be straight, so as not to make the inside space too small, but you will find it much easier to build the wall roughly and then finish

off

it

with a shovel afterward.

Set a barrel in the

A

bow

for

Torpedo Tube (Fig. 363), and

when

the sides have

reached a height of 30 inches, set the ends of a 4-foot

board

H, at

in

them

Fig. 363)

the

2 feet

forward of the central station (see

upon which

same height

set

to build

two or three boards into the

walls inside of the framework, at

conning-tower platform. to a

the forward turret;

/

(Fig.

363), for the

Build up the sides of the hull

height of 3 feet 6 inches, and inclose the framework

of the central station with a 5-inch wall of

ing a passage fore and (Fig.

363) wide

enough

wall above the hull a j_^

Cover the top

aft

snow, leav-

below cross-pieces

to crawl

through.

trifle.

of the central station

—

E and F Offset the

282

A SNOW BATTLESHIP The Superstructure Deck

283

— with enough snow

to hide

Build the wall of

the boards.

The Conning-tower 12 inches above the superstructure deck (Fig. 363), and that of The Forward Turret 12 inches above the sides hull

;

of the

build

The Midship Turret on to the side

of the ship.

The

shap-

ing of the conning-tower and turrets can be done with a

To

shovel or a shingle.

apparent height of the

lessen the hull,

bank

snow around the base (Fig. 363). The Mast should be about 1 1 feet long and can be made by splicing together

a

couple

or

curtain-

of

clothes-poles.

For the Fighting-tops

(Fig.

366)

take two barrel-hoops, fasten a piece 2-by-4

of

in

each

(Fig.

bore a hole in the center for the

mast

to slip

and

364),

o enousfh o through. Tack larcre

a 4-inch rim of cardboard

around the

hoops and cover the bottoms with

same material Wire pieces 366).

the

(Figs. of

and

365

broom-handle

Guns (Fig.

365).

The

fighting-tops should be supported

blocks of

wood

Figs. 364, 365, and 366. Construction of the

—

to the cross-pieces for

Rapid-fire

Fig. 364.

upon

tied or nailed to the

Fighting-tops.

trestletrees

— two

mast (Fig.

366).

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

284

Fasten the upper top lower one

2 feet

3 feet

below the masthead, and the

6 inches below that.

The Crosstree should be 2 feet long its center to the mast at /(Fig. 363).

Make or

a

Coach-whip Pennant

cloth to fly from

the

;

tie it

securely at

out of wrapping-paper

masthead, and to one of the

maststays, which should be fastened to the

masthead and

to the

ends of the crosstree,

fasten three or four

Paper Signal Flags (Fig. 363). Pictures of these flags, in color, may be found in an encyclopedia.

After rigging up the mast, run

it

18

inches into the wall of the conning-tower

and

tie

the ends of the maststays to stakes

driven into the snow.

Make

a Union Jack for the

bow

of the

ship and

A

National Ensign for the stern, and tack

them upon Fig. 367.

Framework of the Funnels.

make them

sticks for staffs.

The Construction of the Funnels is shown Unfasten four barrel-hoops and in Fig. 367. 12 inches in diameter,

3 feet 6 inches long.

and cut twelve

sticks

Nail the sticks to the inside face of

framework with heavy wrapping-paper. Place these funnels upon the deck as shown in Fig. 363, and pack enough snow around For their bases to hold them in position.

the hoops (Fig. 367), then cover the

A SNOW BATTLESHIP

285

Ventilators procure a couple of stovepipe elbows.

Stovepipe or pieces of fence-posts

may be

used for your

Main-battery Guns, two of which should be placed in

each of

Cut three 8-inch portholes

turret.

the sides

and make four depressions

hull for peepholes,

the

in

or recesses, as shown, for the

Secondary-battery Guns, which

may be

pieces of broom-

handle.

Figure 363 shows the interior of your ship while action. This illustration w^ill suggest

The Arrangement

of

Amunition Stores, the idea being

keep the main supply of snowballs in the central station

to

fill

in

— the

in baskets

magazifie

to

and boxes

— and from

these

the pockets and baskets in the turrets and on

the deck.

The Captain hand, will

of the Ship,

command from

whom

the conning-tower (Fig. 363),

and must appoint the other men on the forward deck, station,

and

aft.

He

you must choose before-

in the

to their respective places

forward

turret, the central

boy torpedo

also selects the

boats.

For a Naval Battle there should be at least two ships built with broadsides opposite (Fig.

you can have a land and naval

363).

battle

prefer to build a fort, but there will be battleships.

Rules

the

enemy

more fun with

Certain

must be observed

in

a

snow

any other boys' game, and the rules will differ

if

Of course

somewhat from those

fight, just

as

in

for a naval battle

of a snow-fort battle.

"

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

286

The main damage

object of this

game

is

to inflict as

much

upon the enemy's ship (nothing but snowballs being allowed), and to capture and sink the " torpedo boats." A battleship is sunk if its mast is knocked

when

A side,

as possible

to the ground.

it is

If

neither ship

badly disabled

necessary to discontinue action for any reason,

should be displayed by each

White Flag

of Truce

and during

this period of truce

work and

is

you can

all

set to

repair the ships.

The "Torpedo Boats" furnish the only means

of attack

Each side should have two of these two boys who must each wear a small flag stuck in his cap, as shown in Fig. 360. The " torpedo boats must not fire upon one another, but if the flag is knocked at close range.

—

from the hat

of

one boy and a

enemy reaches him

"

torpedo boat

before he can replace his

the

" of

flag,

he

game until torpedo boat," when an

is

considered captured, sunk, and out of the

his

side captures an enemy's

ex-

change may be

"

effected.

The paper-covered funnels, the fighting-tops, and the signal flags will be damaged the most and will have a fine battered appearance. These may easily be Repairs.

removed, carried indoors, and repaired in a few minutes. In this kind of

snow

fieht

Good Marksmanship counts for more than strength, and the small boy with an accurate aim as his big brother.

is

as valuable a

man

m^s.. CHAPTER X A COASTER A BOB-SLED

A

HOME-MADE

sled that

is

properly put together gen-

more subperhaps, but because the boy who has because

erally outlasts the store sled, not stantially built,

spent the necessary time to construct

and takes a pride

in

keeping

The Coaster shown in cutting

in Fig.

it

in

368

it

it

is

realizes

its

worth

good condition. is

simple to make, but

out the various pieces and putting them together

Fig. 368.

— A Home-made Coaster.

you must do the work carefully

in order to get the best

results.

Lay out the Runners by the pattern shown in Fig. 369. This has been marked off into squares, at the ends, to Measure off the total aid you in laying out the curves. length of the runner upon a i-inch or ij-inch board, 287

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

288

iirM-l

'

II

'

'

•

A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED

289

Cut the three Connecting Cross-pieces {A, Figs. 370 and 371) 12 inches long, 2 inches wide,

and i| inches thick and prepare

the ends of each as

shown

at

A

(Fig.

372); then cut

the six braces

B

(Figs.

370 and 371) as shown

m

Fig.

372, to

fit

the

mortises in the ends of

A.

Fig. 371.

Fig. 372.

— Con-

to

— Cut

to

the Crass-pieces

nect the Runners

and Braces

like This.

^^^^^"

Screw the braces the cross-pieces and the

37l),

like

then

(Fig.

SCrew

the

cross-pieces between

the runners.

They should be ^

one

from the front end, another

II inches

runners

inch below the top 7

—

inches from

the rear end, and the third halfway between the two.

Make

the Seat in two pieces (a wide board would be

likely to split)

There

are a

and screw the boards

number

of

forms

to the cross-pieces.

of

Sled Handles, any one of which

you may

use.

One

of

the sim.plest kind of handles consists of slots cut through

The slots 369 and 371. should be cut as described on page 142 (see Fig. 156). To make the handle shown in Fig. 368, cut two pieces the runners as

of 2

shown

in Figs.

broom-handle 28 inches inches square

;

nail

two

Ions:

and four wooden blocks

of the blocks to each runner,

then bore |-inch holes through the broom-handle pieces

and through the blocks and runners, and bolt the handles

290

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS Drawer-

in place with f-inch carriage-bolts 4 inches long.

such as are used upon the

pulls,

fronts

kitchen pantry drawers,

of

are another form of handles which

may

be used.

Bore a i-inch hole through the

bow ends

of the

piece

broom-handle

of

runners and cut a

them for The Foot-bar.

to

fit

in

you drive a nail through each end of the broomIf

handle, close to the runners,

prevent the

bow end

it

will

of the runners

from spreading. Paint your coaster with at least

two coats

You may

of paint.

yourself about the colors, but a

suit

good

combination would be to paint the runners yellow or green and seat

and handles red

want

to letter a

;

then

name upon

the

if

you

the seat,

on with black paint. Every one of you boys can own

put

it

A

Bob-sled, for there

difficult

about

is

constructing

and the material required FiG. 373.

— "Every

boy

can own a bob-sled."

nothing

is

one, inex-

pensive.

A

bob consists

of

two sleds

built

t

A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED

291

.

along the lines of a coaster, placed tandem, and connected with a plank long enough to hold three or more

boys (Figs. 373 and 374). The sleds must be built

first,

and as they are identical

in construction

The Four Runners may be cut out by the same pattern (Fig. 375).

The

pattern shows the curved ends

Fig. 374.

marked

— A Home-made Bob-sled. runners of the

off into squares, just as the pattern for the

coaster was shown, and one runner should be laid out first,

just as described for the other sled,

marked out from strong wood,

if

Make them

this.

possible, as the

wood, do not

to reenforce

fail

out of oak or other

bob-sled's

subjected to a great deal of strain. soft

and the others

If

them

runners are

you must use as

suggested

for the runners of the coaster.

For connecting the Runners and bracing them, cut six cleats

I

J inches thick,

2

inches wide, and 10 inches long

{A, Figs. 376 and 378), and buy twelve 2-by-2-inch iron angle-braces, such as are

ware

store.

shown

in

Fig. 377, at a hard-

Nail the runners to the ends of the cleats,

using three cleats for each sled and spacing them as

shown

in

Fig. 378,

and then screw the angle-braces

the runners and to the cleats (Figs. 376 and S?^)-

to

^^^

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

292

The Sled Seats 22 inches long out and screw them The Seat

of lo-inch boards

to the cleats.

of the Bob-sled

shown

In the illustration is a

2-by-io-inch plank 7 feet 6 inches long and the

bow

sled

and hinged

to the stern sled.

is

bolted to

Cut the two

A COASTER AND A BOB-SLED plank, block,

and sled

the bolt-head

and

293

putting a washer between

seat,

another between blocks

seat,

B

and

C

and a washer and nut upon the lower end.

The Seat

is

will rise

and

pendent

of

hinged at the Stern End so the stern sled fall

the

as

it

runs over uneven ground, inde-

bow sled. hard wood 2

D

Cut block

(Figs. 378

inches thick, 4 inches wide, and 381) out of and 10 inches long, and plane off the top edge as shown.

Get a pair

of 4-by-4-inch wrought-steel butts at a hard-

ware store for the hinges, and screw them

to

this block

plank seat with screws if inches long; then Connect the bow ends spike the stern sled to the block.

and

to the

of the

runners of the stern sled with the bottom of the

plank seat with or

Check-chains,

fastened to screw-eyes (Fig.

ropes,

378).

E (Fig.

Cut the Steering Foot-bar nail

it

to the runners of the

The Steering Lines

to its

bow

2^']'^)

sled,

and attach

ends (Fig. 374).

For Handle-bars cut the cross-bars inches long and screw

plank as

seat,

shown

and

20 inches long,

them

bolt pieces of

to the

F

(Fig.

2)1'^)

under side

20

of the

broom-handle to their ends,

in Fig. 374.

The Seat should have a Cushion, and an old carriage, wagon, or boat cushion top of the plank

may

may

be remodeled for

or the

be padded with excelsior or straw

and then covered with a piece 378).

it,

of oilcloth or carpet

(F'^ig.

The padding should be spread out evenly and be

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

294

secured to the plank by stretching a piece of cloth over it

and tacking

fore putting

to the

it

edges of the plank with cord

be-

on the top covering (see directions for up-

holstering on page

ii6); then the covering should be

pulled tight over the padding and tacked to the under

Tufting the cushion every 4 or 5 inches, by driving nails through the covering and pad-

side of the plank.

ding into the plank,

will

prevent the padding from

ing and becoming lumpy (Fig. 374). Two Coats of Paint applied to all the give the sled

covered will

hill

its

shift-

woodwork

will

finishing touches, then, with a snow-

or slippery toboggan-slide to coast upon, you

be ready to give

new home-made

bob.

all of

your friends a ride upon your

PARTE Spring and

Han(

Summer

Aero Club of the Chicago Calumet High School.

A Model Aeroplane Meet

of the Calumet Aero Club.

'f7if^F=W^il^ B 1.^

^=^

r^

I

1 I

I

CHAPTER XIX MODEL AEROPLANES

Boys cannot study well while some one or something from without is attracting their attention, and it is this very condition of things which makes indoor work difficult have arrived.

after the first signs of spring

As soon

as

Weather Man throws over the switch marked " balmy weather," Mother Nature takes heed and sends forth her the

messengers

in

their

little

"

airyplanes

"

to

arouse a

greater activity in every living creature, and to

awaken

each growing thing from

winter sleep.

We

all

airygrams," which

reach

us

receive

the

call

in

the

"

its

through the gentle breezes, and through the fragrance from the fields and forests which fill our nostrils and ;

each

little

squealing or chattering animal, and each chirp-

ine or scolding bird, seems either to invite us to

out into the open and work, or to so.

Then

mock

come

us for not doing

there are the brooks and the streams, whose

jumping fish remind us that the " fishin' " is fine, and the old "swimmin"' hole, the sight of which tempts us to take an afternoon off and go " swimmin'." So it is no wonder that, with all these invitations thrust upon us at

L

297

;

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

298

one time, we become it

difficult to

and that you boys

restless,

keep your minds upon your

to these calls of

Nature that

all

studies, for

within us

is

find it is

responding.

But the days are getting longer now, and soon there will

be lots of time before and after school to devote to

outdoor work and play, and, with dition

and the spring vacation

have very

little

all

day Saturday

in sight,

in ad-

you fellows

will

reason to complain.

Since the making and flying of model aeroplanes has

developed into one of the greatest of pastimes for boys, has been added to the

list

it

of boys' sports, and, although a

model aeroplane requires calm weather rather than the breeze necessary for kite flying, aeroplane flying seems to

belong to the spring of the year, for

first

opportunity to try

out

the

it

furnishes the

models which have

been devised and constructed during the winter months so the

warm weather of each year is probably known hereafter as aeroplane time, as

first spell of

destined to

be

well as kite, marble,

A

and top time.

model aeroplane contest

is

as

much more

ing than a kite contest as an automobile race horse race, and what makes

fascinat-

is

than a

more interesting than kite flying is probably the fact that it requires more skill to build a light and evenly balanced model, and that a successful flight depends upon the model itself, rather than the guiding hand of its flyer, as in kite flying. The Lengths of Flights have been limited on account of it

the lack of a long-running light-weight motor, but the dis-

MODEL AEROPLANES

299

tances covered have gradually been Increased from

60 odd

feet,

one

of the first records

made

Courtesy of " The

some

several years

CMcago Daily News.'

Junior Aeronautics. Ideas which are more Ingenious than Praiseworthy. (See details in Chapter

XX for

a safe

2iT\d

practical

"

boy-carrying

"

machine.)

h

350 feet, recently obtained. boys have succeeded in developing bet-

ago, to a distance

This shows how ter

of

over

and better models, through the discovery

of

more

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

300

working material, better forms and propellers, and improved methods for satisfactory

for the planes installing the

motive power and for joining together the various parts J of the models. Junior Aero Clubs have been organized in schools in branches of the in

many

Young Men's

and

Christian Association,

parts of the country, and

very probable,

it is

if

the model aeroplane increases in popularity at the rate at

which

it

has during the past few years, that fully two

thirds of the boys of

America, as well as a large propor-

tion of their English cousins,

and the boys

in all other

countries in which aeronautics are holding the public's attention, will

soon become enthusiastic builders of model

aeroplanes.

The Chicago Calumet High School boys an aero club

in the

organized

winter of 1910, and, under the tutor-

age of Mr. Arthur Booth, their instructor

and

in

many

mechanical

drawing,

have

models.

The photographs opposite page 297 show the club members with their home-made

some

of

designed

built

successful

models, also the start of one of their aeroplane races, while two of the photographs opposite page 302 show other views of several of their models.

Model Aeroplane Meets.

Each aero club has

rules for its contests, but they rially.

corder,

do not

its

own

differ very mate-

—

There are usually three judges a starter, a reand a head official to govern the race, and it is

—

generally stipulated in the rules that

all

models

shall be

|

MODEL AEROPLANES the product of the boys entering them. it is

301

some

In

races

required that the models start from the ground

others

in

;

they must be released from the hand without

giving them any forward motion

;

in a third

form of race

they must be launched from a table top, chair, or bench

;

and for a fourth way they are launched from the hand and may be given as much of a push as the contestants Sometimes a dozen models are started off at one wish. time, but usually the

number

is

limited to five or

six, to

avoid collisions.

The

lengths of the flights are figured from the starting

line to the points at

The winner

which they

of a race is usually

first

touch the ground.

awarded 10

points, the

and the holder of third In the races in which the machines place 3 points. start from the ground, the model which rises wathin the holder of second place

least

number

of feet

5

points,

from the starting

points,

and the one which

which

results in

line

10

scores

rises next best scores 5 points,

heavy handicaps for models capable

covering long distances, but slow in taking to the

of

air.

Three cups, each having a valuation of $100, were awarded last year by business men of New York City for the winners of the contests held under the auspices of the

Young Men's

of these

Christian Association.

was deeded with the condition that

The

first

be

won

it

three times in succession by a contestant before becom-

ing his property, the second was for the longest flight of the year,

and the third

for the

best-designed model

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

302

among

the winners of

all

have stimulated a desire their very best efforts,

in

These

the contests.

New York

prizes

boys to put forth

and have resulted

in

some

surpris-

ing records and an astonishing array of styles of models,

from careful reproductions

of the large successful flyers

forms which only boys' ingenuity could

to a variety of

produce.

The Three Types

of

Machines used

are the glider, or motorless model is

;

in

designing models

the inoiioplmie, which

constructed more or less along the lines of a bird; and Gliders

the biplane, or double-decked aeroplane.

may

be of either the monoplane or biplane type.

The it

is

glider

the best form for a boy to

is

the simplest and will enable

him

points to be observed in building

a

make

first,

as

to learn the

main

successful

flyer;

good glider, he can go a little farther and add a motor, and then he will be prepared to undertake the construction of some A number of sucof the more elaborate monoplanes. then, after he has succeeded in producing a

cessful biplane

models have been made, but so

far

none

has been produced which can equal the records of the

monoplane model.

They

are

usually not as stable a

machine, the greatest difficulty being that a very slight disturbance in the air will upset them and cause them to crash to

the earth, usually resulting disastrously,

if

not in total destruction.

The Support

of

an Aeroplane.

There are several funda-

mental principles which must be taken into consideration

33

O 'A

< .-J

"A

a

o

MODEL AEROPLANES in

designing an aeroplane, in order to

ride the air successfully.

303

make

so

it

will

it

necessary to so plan the

It is

wings, ox planes, that the center of the upward pressure

exerted upon them by the supporting air beneath will

come

of balance. The instant the center pressure shifts to one side, the planes tilt, with

at the ce^iter

of this

the result that the

To

upsets.

machine

loses

illustrate this action,

or cardboard

and drop

that as long as

it

its

take a piece of paper

You

from your hand.

it

remains

flat

and

equilibrium

floats,

it

will find

but the instant

the center of the air pressure beneath shifts to one side, the opposite edge drops, and the piece overbalances and

Cardboard

falls.

is

stiffer

and

will

keep

its

balance

longer than the piece of paper, as the air pressure

under

its

center of balance for a longer time.

If

is

held

you

let

a piece of cardboard glide out of your hand, you will

discover another factor which must be counted on; you will find that the forw^ard result,

end

is

forced upward, and, as a

the card instantly slips backward, then upsets and

drops to the ground.

This

is

caused by a change

in

the center of the air pressure, immediately the card starts to

move

forward, from the center of balance to a point

between that and the forward end. upset

is

This tendency to

neutralized by counterbalancing, or by adding

stability planes in

such positions as

will help to retain the

original center of balance.

A

Cardboard Bird Glider

of the

body

of a bird, as

may be

shown

fashioned on the lines

in Fig. 382.

Mark

out a

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

304

compass or the rim

circular piece of cardboard, using a of a small plate for the

purpose; cut a couple of wedge-

shaped pieces Seauno Wa

out

of the

of equal size

edge, leaving

the piece between for a

and turn over about

tail;

^ inch

of the

opposite the

and

stick a

edge directly tail,

as shown,

piece cut in

the shape of a head and

neck

in a slit

the

folded

made through edge.

front

The head should

have

some sealing-wax dropped Fig. 382.

-A Cardboard Bird Glider.

this can then be

^^^^^

j^

^^ ^j^^^

j^

weight;

used as a counterbalance, and be ex-

tended or pushed back into the body as

much

as

is

upward pressure upon the forward end. The bird should glide to the ground in a long, graceful curve; if it dives head first, you may know that the weight is too heavy, and that the head must be pushed closer to the body; while if it rises and then collapses, the head must be extended a little farther necessary

to

equalize

the

front.

A

Simple Monoplane Model

makes

is

shown

in Fig. 383.

a splendid form of glider as well.

This

Figure 384

shows the model without the planes, and Fig. 385 shows the details for the propeller.

MODEL AEROPLANES Use a The

|--inch or |-Inch

Center-pole,

center,

if

pine flagstaff for

and get one which

is split

which

possible, so the slot in

Fjg. 383.

305

an old

flag has

the

to slip the card-

— A Simple Monoplane Model.

board wings will already be prepared. find

down

If

you cannot

up somew^here, from which the

staff nailed

been w^ashed by the

you may use a cabinet-

rain,

(Wire Shaft

•0-.

Bead

tin propeller blade (Cut two of these out of

a

BRASS BEARING

tomato can)

Fig. 385. -Flag staff -.

qla^^ Screw hook

Fig. 384.

— Center-pole of Monoplane with Motor in Place. Fig. 385. — Details of Propeller, Shaft and Bearing. Fig. 384.

maker's dowel stick and rip one end for a distance of inches and the other for a distance of 6 inches. this center-pole

about 18 inches long.

5

Cut

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

3o6

Before attaching the propeller,

Two

Cut the

Planes out of cardboard of a light weight,

enough to support itself. The sizes of these planes must be determined by experimenting, as they will depend upon the weight of the material, but will be approximately 5 inches by 12 inches and 4 inches by yet

stiff

The

6 inches.

large plane should be fastened about

i

inch from one end of the pole, and the rear plane should

be placed about the same distance from the opposite end.

You have now completed tried out before the

plane fore and ful

sweeps

you intend in place

A roof,

;

aft until

building,

if

and

it

should be

Adjust the rear

attached.

model

this

will glide in long, grace-

permanently

in place

to install a motor, for after this has

if

been put

be necessary to readjust this plane.

Glider Race or,

the

is

but do not fasten

will

it

motor

a glider,

you

may

live

in

be started from a shed or barn

an upper story

of

an apartment

you may use the rear porch from which

to

start the models.

The details for An Easily Made

Propeller are

shown

in Fig. 385.

The

blades are cut out of tin from a tomato can, which you will find of just the

edge

of the cut

end

right curve. of a can,

Remove

the ragged

by holding the can over a

flame until the solder melts and the end drops

off;

mark out one blade to the dimensions given, cut it and mark out the second blade with it as a pattern. Cut a block f inch by f inch by

i;^

then out,

inches in size out

MODEL AEROPLANES of

hard wood for a hub;

307

a small hole

drill

through the

center for a shaft, and slot each end diagonally for a dis-

tance of ^

inch with a saw, as

Notch each edge

shown in

shown

of the blades near the

in the pattern

;

then

slip the

the detail.

in

narrow end, as

blades into the slots

the hubs, bend the ends over against the hub, and

drive a tack through the

wood and

the tin to help hold

them in position. Cut a short piece of wire for The Shaft, and after slipping it through the hub bend the end over and stick it into another small hole made in the hub.

The Shaft Bearing should be made out brass | little

inch by i^ inches in

of a piece of

Drill a hole of

size.

a

larger diameter than the shaft, near one end, and,

^ inch aw^ay from into the split end

this end,

bend

it

shown then set it and bind it in place

as

of the center-pole,

;

by winding the end with strong linen thread. thread with glue, or with shellac,. to hold

it

Coat the

in place.

Strands of rubber are used for

The Motive Power sively, as this is the

of

model aeroplanes almost exclu-

most

efficient light-weight material

which has as yet been found

for the purpose.

For the

simpler models, No. 32 rubber bands are often looped together chain fashion, and several strands of these used

;

but for the larger machines strands of rubber about yV Rubber strands 3-^ inch inch thick are generally used. thick can be purchased wherever model aeroplanes are

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

3o8 sold,

and

will cost

you

will

find

specialty

addresses

the

of

dealers,

who make

furnishing model aeroplane parts,

of

magazines.

about $i for a piece loo feet long;

Some

High School have and have found

The number

of the

the

boys of the Chicago Calumet

tried the

this

in

a

rubber from old golf

balls,

very satisfactory.

of strands necessary for a

motor

will de-

pend, of course, upon the age of the rubber, and

its

you use No. 32 rubber bands, which are ^inch wide and 3 inches long, from four to six strands will usually be sufficient, while if you use -^ inch rubber,

diameter.

If

there should be from ten to eighteen strands. Slip a glass bead on to the propeller shaft for a thrust-

bearing, then slip the shaft through the hole in the hub,

bend the end into a hook, and

The

slip

the rubber over

it.

other ends of the strands should be looped over a

screw-hook, and the hook should be screwed into the

away from the propeller shaft. The strands should be just loose enough to remain taut when unwound. The propeller of model aeroplanes is usually placed at the forward end, rather than in the rear as on the large machines, and the model is really drawn through center-pole about

12

inches

the air instead of propelled.

model

flies

It

has been found that the

steadier by this arrangement.

When winding up

the Motor for a Flight, the propeller

should be given from 100 to 175 turns, according to the strength of the rubber and

number

of strands used.

MODEL AEROPLANES

A

Running-gear

plane like

this,

not necessary for a simple mono-

is

but

311

it is

easily

made and

a big protection to the propeller blades, to

be bent out of shape

if

attached, and

which are

broken

of metal, or

if

of

is

likely

wood,

by coming in contact with the ground. Figure 389 shows a simple way to construct the frame out of wire and bamboo, and

how

boo axle run through the wheels.

the ends of the bam-

Button molds can

be purchased at any dry-goods store for about dozen, and these

make

the axle and are

A

with

cents a

excellent wheels; they turn

upon

held in place by driving short pins

through the bamboo ends. block

5

small

tacks

Fasten the wire frame to or

thread,

or

with

both

(Fig. 387)-

Some boys provide

their

models with bamboo

Skids constructed similar to the runners w^hich were

upon the large machines, but wheels look neater upon the model machines, and produce less originally used

friction.

The Planes

Only two

model do not require a framework.

for this

sticks are necessary for each,

through the hems sewed on the edges

and these of the

slip

covering

Silk should be used for the covering of the

(Fig. 390). planes,

and,

enough

in

if

your

mother hasn't any scraps large

her scrap-bag, you can buy enough for the

two planes for 25 cents. If your mother or sister will do the necessary sewing on the sewing-machine, the rest of the

work can be

finished

up very quickly; however,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

312

any boy who thread well

handy can manage a needle and enough when he has to, and does not find it Is

at all

Make

hard, either.

a

hem along each END LOOPS

THiS

(See

to

OVER

JOP OF END BLOCK

long edges

of the

run the sticks

'a'

and a

into,

Fig. 387.)

nar-

row one along

narrow

each

edge to keep the silk

from

ing.

tern

ravel-

The

pat-

(Fig. 390)

shows the proper dimensions

for

The

the planes.

may be

sticks

out of

whittled pine,

boo

but is

bam-

lighter

and stronger. After the

Tie TO Ring E'-

Fig. 390.

— Pattern

silk

has been prefor Planes

and Connections

Monoplane Model shown

in Fig. 386.

for

pared

and

the

sticks have been

slipped

into

the

hems made

for

them, sew a dozen

small brass rings to the edges, in the positions indicated

upon the

pattern, being careful to place each

pair of

same distance away from the center. To the two center rings on the front edge of the front plane fasrings the

MODEL AEROPLANES ten the ends of a piece of wire bent as

with a loop in the end to

shown

in Fig. 390,

A

over the top of block

Attach a cord

center-pole.

the

fit

313

the

to

rings

ends of the front plane, for warping the plane

;

of

the

at

connect

the two planes about \o\ inches apart with cords tied to

shown

the end rings as

;

and

a short piece of cord

tie

each of the remaining rings by which to fasten

to

the planes to rings

attaching the

In

the

wire

E

D, and

C,

planes

loop over the

to

the

top

of

on the center-pole.

center-pole,

block

A

slip

first

(Fig.

387),

then pull the cords on the rear edge of the rear plane sticks in the front plane are

until the

them

to ring

rings

C

and

E\

D

tie

bowed, and

tie

the cords on the center rings to

keep the planes centered upon the

to

center-pole.

After you have completed this model, go over

examine each part see that the ;

is

stretched taut

;

it

and

covering of the planes

silk

sight along the model, lengthwise, to

see that the planes are in line with each other; test the

warping

of the front

plane to

same on each end; and,

if

make

certain that

it is

the

necessary, readjust the bracing

cords to correct any of these faults. If

the model dives

move

cords and

and then back

slips

until

when you

try

the rear plane a

backwards

it,

little

is

Some boys

tie

;

move

obtained.

planes have been properly adjusted, slip.

forward

to the ground,

a perfect balance

so they will not

loosen the bracing if it

rises

the plane

When

the

the cords securely

coat the knots with glue

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

3^4

make them doubly secure, but two half-hitches will make a perfect fastening. The upper center photograph in the group opposite

to

page 302 shows

with the

When

up, ready to be released for a flight.

model

carefully made, this

200

aloft

— Antoinette Monoplane Model.

Fig. 391.

motor wound

model monoplane held

this

100 to

will fly distances of

feet.

The Antoinette Model shown plane and one that

The Center-pole piece of a

bamboo

is

is

easily

shown

in Fig.

391

is

A

and

and fasten

Run

B

in Fig. 392,

fishing-rod or

and consists

bamboo umbrella

B similar to blocks A in place

a piece of

stiff

mono-

made.

24 inches long and | or i inch in diameter. blocks

a neat

and

B

of a

ha'ndle,

Prepare the in Fig.

388,

2\\ inches away from block A.

wire through the center-pole at C,

which should be 2\ inches from A, and another at D, which should be 6 inches away from C\ also run a piece ^\ inches long and having its lower end bent into the form of a hook, through a vertical hole bored

of wire, cut

through the center-pole

-^

inch back of block B.

Drive

MODEL AEROPLANES

i

a screw into the top of the pole at /%

315

which should be

7

inches away from block B, and fasten a brass ring to the rear end of the pole, as

Use the

at G,

details given in Fig.

The Propeller for

motor

shown

this model,

388 in preparing

and connect up the rubber

as described for the other model.

Figures 393 to 396 show the patterns for the wings,

and rudder.

tail, fin,

A

B

D Fig. 392.

Fig. 393.

RUDDER Fig. 396.

Fig. 392. •

F^G. 393. Fig. 394.

— Center-pole of Antoinette Monoplane Model. — Pattern Wings. FiG. 395. — Pattern — Pattern for Tail. Fig. 396. — Pattern for

The Wings require frames made

bamboo

sticks

bound together

of

for Fin.

for

Rudder.

wire, or of four

at the corners with linen

thread, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 393,

they are covered with

silk.

The

and

projecting ends on the

side pieces are provided for connection to the euds^ of

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

3i6

wires

C and

bind them in

D

on the center-pole (Figs. 392 and 391); Connect place with linen thread (Fig. 391).

and make

the ends of the wings with a thread or cord,

enough to warp the wings 2\ inches (measurecenter, and from string to center-pole).

this short

ment

at

The Tail has one

stick,

which

slips into a

hem

short edge of the cloth, and cords run through

in

the

hems on

Fasten one end of each cord to

the other two edges.

This

the stick and the other end to a small brass ring.

plane should be warped f inch, by attaching a warping cord to the ends of the stick, as shown in Fig. 391.

The Fin

is

prepared similar to the

stead of having a stick run through

plane, but, in-

tail it,

short edge slips over the upper end of wire

The

rings on the fin and

The Rudder has a piece give

it

and the ends

stiffness,

hooks and fastened 391 and 392).

run through

its

of this wire are

to the lower part of wire

Attach a thread to the rear

and fasten the ends

E (Fig.

392).

over the nail at F,

tail slip

of wire

seam on the

the

of this to the

ends

edge

to

bent into

E

of the

(Figs.

rudder

of the tail plane,

setting the rudder in line with the center-pole, or at an angle, according to whether fly

you wish

to

have the model

straight or in a curve.

The Running-gear

is

to be constructed the

same

as for

the other model.

A

shown in Fig. This is one of the forms of monoplane models 397. used by the boys of the Chicago Calumet High School More Elaborate Monoplane Model

is

MODEL AEROPLANES in

their

study of aeronautics.

make than

is

more

difficult to

built

some

of

the simpler models

should be prepared to undertake

struction; for he

ship

Is

those which have been described, but any

handy boy who has successfully

It

317

Its

con-

win have learned that exact workman-

necessary in model making, that the weight and

Fig. 397.

— A More Elaborate Monoplane Model.

strength of materials used must be carefully considered,

must be carefully tested as prepared, that the planes must be warped or bowed to the same degree at both ends, and that an efficient propeller is one half

that each part

of the secret of

As

so

producing a record-breaking model.

many measurements

model, in order that each part

are

necessary for this

may

be properly propor-

T' Rudder--*

MOVE REAR PLANE BACK AND forth until correct Balance

is

obtained.

-Center- Pole

tDGE STBIP^

DOTTEd-.LlNIES^'SHOW METHOD of bracfng.'and warpins

Planes

EDGF

Fig. 398.

^'^^^

strip 2i_

— Plan or Top View.

(Scale i"

=

i".)

i^ri)

RuNMING-GEAR BPACE

Button Mould

Fig. 399.

— Front Elevation of Monoplane Model shown (Scale I"

=

318

I".)

in Fig. 397.

MODEL AEROPLANES

319

tioned and properly placed, working-drawings are to a scale of

^ Inch to the Inch; that

is,

shown

the plan or top

view (Fig. 398), the front elevation (Fig. 399), and the side elevation (Fig. 400) are reproduced upon the pages at such a size that i Inch of the drawing on the page represents if

I

inch on the model, which you will understand

you have studied the instructions

in

Chapter IV

for

making working-drawings. By placing an ordinary ruler upon the pages you will be able to tell exactly what any measurement is. Unless you have had some experience in reading mechanical drawings, there you, and which

I

is

one thing which

shall explain.

peller in Figs. 398

If

and 399, you

may

you look

will see that

shorter In the plan than In the front elevation

puzzle

at the proit is ;

shown

the plan

does not, in this case, show the correct length, but represents the top view

when

the propeller

angle shown in the front elevation. in the plan.

The

propeller

is

It

is \'$>

turned to the fores horte7ied

foreshortened in the same warping thread Rear Plane

HOOK FOR

ENDS OF STB4NDS OF Rubber f-ioTOR

Fig. 400.

— Side Elevation of Monoplane Model shown in Fig. 397. (Scale I"

=

i".)

;

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

320

way

would be seen

it

shown

in a side

view when

As

in the front elevation.

an angle are foreshortened

at

which shows

in the side elevation (Fig. 400),

all

is

it

it

as

turned as

other portions set

in a similar

manner, in

all

views in which you do not look squarely at them, be

drawing which shows the true length,

careful to use the

measurements.

in taking off the

The Center-pole

bamboo, handle

is

made out

be used, and should be about

and the framework backbone and split

model

of a piece of

which a fishing-rod or Japanese parasol

for

may

of this

bamboo

inch thick

of the running-gear, the braces,

ribs of

^g-

-|

and the

each plane are made of strips of

inch thick by ^-^ inch wide, and the edge

and rudder are made of pine about The ribs from a Japanese parasol inch in diameter. may be used for the bamboo strips, and the sticks from a contrivance made to keep the walls a sink splasher,

strips of the planes

^

—

around a sink from being splashed, which can be purare chased for 5 or 10 cents at a department store

—

just the thing for the 3^-inch sticks

boo may be used instead

of the

;

small strips of bam-

round

sticks,

if

they are

easier to obtain.

Strong linen thread

is

The Best Material

for

Binding the sticks

together.

sometimes used, but thread is very much lighter and easier to handle, and if you brush the connections with a thin coat of glue after wrapping the thread around

Wire

is

them, they cannot possibly separate.

The binding was

MODEL AEROPLANES not

321

shown on the connections on the plan and

tions,

make

in order not to

eleva-

the drawings complicated,

but you will readily see where

it is

necessary by looking

at Fig. 397.

The Running-gear consists each of which a pair of

Measure

wheels.

two triangular frames, on button molds are mounted for

off the lengths of the strips,

drawings, and fasten the

Whittle

401.

of

down

ends of the axles to

from the

strips

together as

in

Fig. 401.

— Running-gear

of

Fig.

the the

fit

holes in the button molds,

and drive pins through them to hold the molds in place.

After

completing

bind them to

the frames,

the center-pole and

brace

each upright with a diagonal brace, as

shown

in Figs.

398 and 400.

The Propeller show^n the drawings of

is

a true form

screw-propeller.

making

of

difficult,

and

The

one of these it

in

is

requires a great deal of accuracy in both

laying out and cutting to produce one that

Many boys pellers

Mono

plane shown in Fig. 397.

is efficient.

succeed in preparing very satisfactory pro-

out of pine, spruce, or walnut, and sometimes

laminations (layers) of walnut

and white holly wood,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

322

A

while other boys buy them already made.

lo-inch propeller can be purchased for about $1.

tive If

very effec-

you make your propeller, follow the dimensions shown

upon the drawings. The Shaft Bearing

Make

this

of

brass

to

keep

its

enough

is

or

shown

in

copper,

detail

of

Flatten

— Propeller Shaft and Two

the

side

of

pole

for

which to

fit

side

make

to

the bearing, you

The Shaft

is

of this, as

made

centerto

rest

and wire about

J-

^\^q

it

inch ^^d.

brass, copper, or tin out of

may

prepare a block

on the pole and tack the bearing

and ends

it

^^^y ^^^^

you have only very thin

under

the

in place

Forms of Shaft Bearing. If

inch thick.

-^^

against, Figs. 402 and 403.

402.

any gauge heavy

shape, and not over Fig. 401.

Fig.

in

shown

in

the under

to

Fig. 403.

out of a piece of

stiff

wire (Figs.

400 and 402). File a square taper upon the propeller end of this, so that the propeller w411 not turn upon it, and, after slipping

bead on

to

it

propeller of

i

all

it

through the bearing, solder a glass

inch from the end, as shown, to relieve the

motor

strain.

Drive the propeller on to

the end of the shaft, carefully, so as to avoid the danger of splitting shaft,

there

if

is

it.

It is

not necessary to clinch the end of this

you drive the propeller on

to

an advantage in not clinching

that the propeller can easily be

properly; and

it

it,

removed

in the fact

then, in case

MODEL AEROPLANES of accident, or

if

you have a number

of

forms of pro-

you can quickly interchange them.

pellers,

the hole through it

323

the

bearing, be sure to place

shaft

low enough so the hook

In drilling

will clear the center-pole, in

revolving.

The hook

for the rear

end

of the

rubber motor should

be bent out of a piece of brass, and be wired to the under side of the center-pole to a flattened surface, as

shown

in

Fig. 400.

The Rubber Motor described for the other models

will

be satisfactory for this machine (see page 307).

The Construction

of the Planes is clearly

Bend the

the working-drawings.

shown

in Fig. 404,

Fig. 404.

ribs to the exact

and be careful to get them

all

curve alike.

— Curve the Ribs of the Planes like This. of the

backbone,

sticks carefully, then test each

framework

Bind together the ends balances at the center

;

this

have cut the sticks of equal at equal

shown upon

it

must

size

do,

ribs,

and edge

to see that

and

it

will

if

it

you

and have connected them

distances each side of the center.

Cover the

planes with silk or with Japanese rice-paper, stretching the covering as tight as possible, and cross-stitching the silk

or gluing the

paper.

first,

before putting

it

drumhead.

on,

If it

you dampen the paper

will dry out as tight as a

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

324

Bind the planes

to the center-pole at

398 and 400), being careful

in

to

B

(Figs.

The

rear plane will

be readjusted, after the model has been completed,

which

to a point

produce a perfect balance

will

machine, but the position shown tion

and

doing so to place them

exactly at right angles to the pole.

have

A

and a good one

for a first

an approximate loca-

is

trial.

The Bracings, shown by the dotted tions, are fastened to the

of the

ends of the

lines in the illustrasticks.

Use strong

linen thread and fasten each end with two half-hitches.

You may

notch the ends of the sticks on the edges,

the same

way

that

you notched the frame pieces

of the

running-gear, to avoid the possibility of the thread

ping

slip-

but with well-tied half-hitches this precaution

off,

in

is

not necessary.

The Rudder Frame should be lashed as

shown

in

Figs. 397

and 400.

to the center-pole,

Cover the frame with

thin paper or silk. Finish.

To make

the framework

should be finished in some way. carefully with sandpaper, then give of

shellac or

such as

is

aluminum

paint.

more shipshape, First rub it

this the model's

down

a couple of coats

The aluminum

sold for stoves and radiators

and by using

it

it

framework

is

paint

inexpensive,

will

appear to

be made of aluminum. Flights this Monoplane

is

capable of Making.

the boys of the Chicago Calumet

club have

made models

of this type

Some

of

High School's aero which have covered

MODEL AEROPLANES distances of from 200 to 325 feet.

mechanic, you will

may

325

you are a good

If

be able to turn out a machine which

exceed this longest

flight,

and

if

you are a genius,

you may be able to discover improvements which develop

opposite pages 297 and 302 sizes,

and some

center-pole,

show

of the models,

vided with additional

The photographs

breaker.

a record

into

it

this

you

model

made

in various

will notice, are pro-

placed below and above the

fins,

while others have a horizontal

After you have

will

tail

plane.

the model for which the working-

drawings are given, work out some of these extra

parts,

using your ingenuity, as well as the photographs, to

determine the proper proportions for them.

Model aeroplane making, carrying machines,

is

like

the building of

in its infancy as yet,

and

man-

for this

reason probably offers a better opportunity for the boy

inventor to

show

his skill

and originality than does any

other experimental work occupying the attention of

and boys

at the present time.

the small machines ones.

is

flying of

keeping pace with that of the large

Each boy owner

a determination to

The making and

men

of a

make

machine usually a

name

sets out with

for himself,

and the

made and smashed in would make it difficult for any

frequency with which records are the junior aero contests

one but an enthusiast to keep track of the

Some

of

my

readers will doubtless be holders of model

aeroplane records, and

want you

to let

latest records.

when

me know.

the honor

comes

to you,

I

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

326

The boy who

devises a motor which will be

cient than the rubber strand

motor used

more

effi-

at the present

do more to advance this new pastime than can come from any other form of development, so here is a time, will

good

field for

your experiments.

—

1

I

J

CHAPTER XX A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP -iih-wsr/n

\\v.

-

-

\\\

-

-^

Probably after making a number of different forms of model aeroplanes, you boys will become ambitious to construct something in which you yourselves can ride. Although the airship and aeroplane have been developed to the point feat,

where successful flying

However, fly, I

able

an accomplished

they are a long ways from the stage of perfection

whereby one can to

is

you

fly

without endangering

to help satisfy

am

you

life

restless fellows

who

going to show you a scheme which

to sail

through the

air.

This

will

or limb. desire

will en-

not contain

the elements of danger or foolhardiness attendant

upon

leaping from a tree-top or shed roof with an umbrella for a parachute, or

any

of the

ingenious ideas shown in Mr.

Bradley's cartoon on page 299, which any lad suffered the consequences

who has

by breaking a limb or smash-

ing the dining table and other furniture in such reckless endeavors, will

tell

airship described will

you are not a success

and

illustrated

;

instead, the auto-

upon the following pages

provide a greater safety to the pilot than

the coaster

upon a toboggan-slide, or coaster 327

is

afforded

railway,

to-

•

/^'^

siii>^

328

A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP gether with see

many

by looking

As you

of the thrills of flying.

at Figs.

which the airship

329

flies

will

405 and 406, the rope cable along is hung low enough to keep the

Fig. 406.

— Making a Landing.

course of the young aviator always close to the surface

Mother Earth. For the Framework of the Balloon (Fig. 407), procure eight barrel hoops and three i-by-2-inch strips 12 or 14 feet long, and purchase at a hardware store two wooden single blocks (the size for f-inch rope, with Jiooks and beckels, Fig. 41 1), 3 pounds of No. 12 steel wire, and \ pound

of orood old

of small

From

copper staples (Fig. 408). the i-by-2-inch strips cut

A, B,

8 inches long, and crosspieces E, F, G,

the lengths

shown

in the

C,

and

H,

/,

D

5 feet

and

/

of

top view of the framework (Fig.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

33^

Remove

409).

the beckets from the single blocks, un-

screwing the bolts which hold them in the iron straps

and bore a

(Fig. 41

1),

through

strips

C and

hole, the size of those in the straps,

J?,

Then

i^ inches from each end. Rib-band

Fig. 410,

Fig. 411.

Figs. 407 and 408.

Fig. 409.

— Side and End Views of Framework of Balloon, —

Top and End Views showing Framework before Ribs and Rib-bands are attached.

Figs. 409 and 410.

Fig. 411.

bolt

— Wooden Single Block.

C and

D to the

using 4-inch

bolts.

becket straps (Figs. 409 and 410), Nail the crosspieces to

spacing them as shown in Fig. 409

and

B

wooden

to the crosspieces,

;

and D,

then nail strips

and screw

shells of the blocks (Fig. 410).

C

A

their

ends

to the

Two

nails

should

be used at each point of nailing, to insure a strong frame-

work.

The Barrel Hoop Ribs are fastened to the ends crosspieces (Fig. 407).

Remove

of the

the nails which hold

the hoops together, and turn in the ends until the inside

A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP

331

diameters equal the length of the crosspieces, then drive several nails through the ends

To

inner side of the hoops.

and clinch them on the

build out the

bow and

stern

framework (Fig. 407), cut the two remaining hoops

of the

in halves, cross a pair of these halves at right

each end, and fasten their centers together

ends to the end ribs and drive

angles for

then nail the

;

in a nail at the points

D

where the hoops cross strips A, B, C, and Clinch all nails wherever it is possible to do Cut Twelve Rib-bands from the No.

1

2

(Fig. 408).

so.

wire, fasten

one

across the bottoms of the ribs, another across the tops

and space the remaining ten between them

(Fig. 407), at

The

equal distances.

in Fig. 408,

intermediate rib-bands are

but have been omitted

in

shown

make

Fig. 407 to

Fasten the rib-bands to the

that illustration clearer.

ribs

with staples (Fig. 408). Before

inclosing

framework, cut twelve

the

6-foot

lengths of heavy cord for Stays, and tie one to each rib just above the crosspiece (Fig. 407); also run a cord through the blocks, so that

when you cable,

are ready to slip the balloon on to

you can

by means

of

it,

tie

its

rope

the end of the cord to the rope and,

pull the rope

through the wheels

of the

blocks.

You

will require

\\ yards

A

The Balloon Envelope. bric or muslin will

make

any cloth you can

get,

of cloth for

black, brown, or gray cam-

the most durable covering, but

such as old sheets, can be used.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

332

Put the cloth on lengthwise of the framework in two strips, stretch it as smooth as possible, and fasten it to tacks and to the rib-bands with thread.

the ribs with

On

top of the envelope sew a band of white cloth around

the center of the balloon (Fig. 405).

The Construction tion, as Figs.

of the Car requires

little

explana-

412 to 418 show the details clearly.

Pro-

Fig. 412.

FiG. 413.

Fig.

but

412.— The

Car.

— First Step making over a Box Front of Car. Fig. 414. — Gate — Details of Propeller. to Figs. 415 418.

Fig. 413.

in

for a Car.

for

cure a box about 16 inches deep, 20 inches wide, and

remove the bottom and one end, nail the bottom boards crosswise to form the car seat (Fig. 413), and saw off the projecting ends. Reenforce the sides Cut the of the box with vertical boards (Fig. 412). first two boards long enough to support the pitched foot3 feet long;

A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP board, which should be fastened seat,

and make the

first

333

14 inches below the

board on each side project

inch

i

beyond the box (Fig. 412) to form a rabbet for the gate Nail cleats and L to the side boards, where to set in.

K

shown, and fasten the foot-board upon them.

Fit the

between the seat and foot-board, make a seat back as shown in Figs. 412 and 415, and attach a pair of

seat-riser

wagon wheels

to the sides.

Fasten the gate boards together

three battens,

w^ith

making the top and bottom battens long enough

to pro-

ject

i^ inches on each side; drive a 20-penny (4-inch)

nail

through each end

screw four screw-eyes sockets, in

which to

of

the projecting battens, and

into

the

them

set

front

of

(Figs. 412

the

car for

and 414).

Bore eight f-inch holes through each side of the \\ inches below the top, through which to (Fig. 412); then cut

two

for the suspension stays,

tie

car,

the stays

6-foot lengths of J-inch rope

and

tie

the ends of one through

the two front holes, and the ends of the other through

the two rear holes (Fig. 412).

The Propeller (Figs. 415 to 418) requires a hub

strip

i-by-i-by-io inches in size, with a 3^-inch slot in each

end (Fig. 417), and two blades similar Notice that the of the

other.

hub

strip,

slots are cut

to

Fig.

diagonally across the ends

and that one

is

at right angles to the

Bore a J-inch hole through the center

side of the in the slots.

418.

of

one

hub strip (Fig. 417), then fasten the blades Cut a stick 1 inches long for the propeller 1

;

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

334

shaft (Fig. 415), fasten the propeller to

end

sert the other

the car

wooden If

side,

A

nail

;

it

in a hole

one end, and

in-

bored through the back of

securely in position, and brace

it

with a

bracket.

you stretch the cable you

for

your airship upon a

hill-

will require

enough to lift the car the ground is level, or nearly so

Starting Platform just high

off the

ground, but

(Fig. 405),

be necessary to construct a platform

will

it

if

8 feet or so above the surface to give the rope cable sufficient pitch.

This platform apart,

and

is

built

is

between two

trees, 3 or

4 feet

Each bracket

supported by four brackets.

consists of three pieces of 2-by-4, as you will see by look-

Cut the piece marked

ing at Fig. 405.

and iVand of and

N

O O,

2 feet

and

M4

feet long,

6 inches long; miter the lower ends

let

their

upper ends into M.

Nail

the pieces together and spike two brackets to each tree

then spike crosspieces

under top piece ports.

Cut the

M

P and Q

across the trees, directly

of the brackets, as additional sup-

railing

T

uprights R, S, and

5

feet

long, mortise the upper ends for the gate {[/) to slide

through, and spike them to the brackets.

lower ends with the diagonal pieces

upper ends with boards

X

long enough to reach from in a hole

strip

and V.

R

F and

Brace the J4^,

and

their

Cut the gate (C/)

to T, insert a short stick

bored near one end, for a handle, and

across the other end to prevent

it

nail a

from pulling

A BOY'S AUTO-AIRSHIP through the mortise

in

upright R.

335

Nail the platform

boards in place, and fasten

A

Push-off Platform (Z) between the trees, 18 inches

above the main platform, for the

car.

Build a ladder from the ground to the main platform.

The Rope

Purchase |-inch Manila rope for the cable, and get whatever length you will require in one Fasten one end of this rope to a tree a few feet

piece. in

back

run

Cable.

of the

upper station platform (Fig. 405), then

through the single blocks

it

work, and while

much

of the

you

pull

in the balloon frame-

on the rope to take up as

slack as possible, have

some one

tie

the

lower end to the center of a rope stretched between two trees at the lower If

end

of the airship's course (Fig. 406).

there doesn't happen to be a tree directly in back of

the upper station, you can attach that end of the rope

same way that you fastened the lower end. Tie the lower end of the rope low enough so the car will run upon the ground for a few feet, and slow up, before reaching the end. Throw some loose earth over the point of landing, and from there as between two

far as the

trees, in the

end

of the rope, to retard the speed of the

wheels.

To attach the

Car, hitch the loops of the

stays over the block

hooks (Fig.

of the intermediate stays

405),

and

through the holes

suspension

tie

the ends

in the sides

of the car.

To pull back the Airship to the Starting

Platform,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

2,2,6

hook

attach a strong cord to the it

in the stern block,

through a small pulley attached

the

(Fig.

cable

platform to a

405),

windlass

to the

and bring

it

constructed

run

upper end

down below as shown in

of

the

the

illustration. If

you boys club together

several of

auto-airship,

have the

you

first

ride

workmen have enjoy a

trip.

will ;

have to

"

then, after

ridden,

you

By charging

toss all

will

up

"

in

building an

to see

for material.

shall

of the " directors "

and

want your friends

a small fare you can

the airship pay back, in a short time, what

expended

who

to

make

you have

,1

I

I

izz^

CHAPTER XXI CAMPING EQUIPMENT

When

the last day of school arrives, isn't

it

with a

you pack up your books, carry them home, and throw them on to a high shelf, or into your somewhere out of siorht bedroom closet ? And isn't it o sense of

relief that

—

hard to realize that you need not think of lessons again for

more than two months, and

that

whatever you choose for the balance It

you are

of the

do

summer days ?

used to be that way when the author was a boy, and

conditions probably haven't changed

Some

of

you boys

out for the

first

will

much

in this regard.

experience the joys of camping

time this summer,

— the

always remains freshest In one's memory, as is

free to

amusing

so full of

incidents,

have camped out before

w^ill

— and those

trip

which

it

generally

of

you who

probably not miss an oppor-

do so again this year; but, if it is not possible for you to go away from tow^n, there is no reason why you cannot camp out near home, in some vacant lot, or in your back yard, or on the porch or roof. tunity to

A

Tent

is

one

ment to look

of the first parts of the

after.

The

camping equip-

prices of tents vary in different 337

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

338

you can get an 8 foot by lo foot

locations, but

New

for about $7,

and a wall tent

of the

same

size (see photo-

— An "A" Tent.

graph opposite page 340) for about $g, while cost about one half as much as the tent. the

you wish

work

cost.

to

make

and you

difficult,

The sewing will

machine.

ay^

will

a tent yourself, you will not find will save considerable

on the

together of the strips of canvas

be willing

is

work for a boy probably your to do this for you on her sewing-

the hardest part of the

mother

tent

York, Chicago, Denver, or San Francisco,

FiG. 419.

If

A"

lo-ounce duck, complete with poles and

(Fig. 419) of stakes, in

"

;

Eight-ounce duck, 29 inches wide,

retails at

about 15 cents a yard, and the lo-ounce weight, which is

better for the purpose, at about 18 cents a yard.

For making an

diagram (Fig.

"

A"

420),

The diagram shows

Tent of the size shown upon the

you

will require

30 yards of material.

the completed tent as

it

would appear

CAMPING EQUIPMENT when spread out mensions

flat

and that

A, B,

E, G,

strips

C,

/,

are also the

as

angular pieces F,

and

upon the ground, and

also the di-

for cutting the different lengths of canvas.

will see that strips

size,

339

and

and

D

K

You

are of equal length,

are of one shape and^

tri-

H,

/,

L and strips Mand N.

Lap each

strip a full

i

inch

over the edge of the adjoining pieces, as indicated

I

by the dotted lines on the

sew each

and

diagram,

seam near the edges with a double row of stitching. After

the

of

all

pieces

have been cut and sewed together,

back

turn

outside edges

i

the

inch,

Fig. 420.

"A"

as

them

Buy one dozen

off

and

for

Making an feet

and

5 inches.

indicated by dotted lines, to finish

— Diagram

Tent, 7 feet by 9

at the

same

time, reenforce them.

i-inch iron harness rings for the ridge

and

guy-rope eyelets, set two in the canvas at the ends of the ridge,

and one

at the

end

of

each of the side seams, and

buttonhole stitch them in place.

The canvas should be

reenforced with a square patch in the places where the eyelets are to be set in in the ridge.

and straps tie

Sew

canvas loops

to the flaps, in the locations indicated,

and

the guy-ropes through the eyelets provided for them.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

34°

Figures 421 to 423 show the details for The Ridge-pole and Uprights. These should be cut out of pieces if inches square,

Cut the uprights about

ioiece of 2-by-4. l^ong,

t^ie

which

5 feet

of a

10 inches

allow for setting the ends 3 inches into

will

and the ridge-pole 9

ground,

^ ound

which may be ripped out

feet 5 inches long.

Drive

off the top of the ridge-pole as in Fig. 423.

^ hiece of f-inch or |-inch iron rod into one

end

of

each

upright (Fig. 422), and bore

"w-

two

holes,

I

inch

larger

than the rods, through the ridge-pole

in

the

proper

positions for the rods to (Fig. 421).

in

tin

A

fit

piece of

bent around the ends

of the pole, as in Fig. 423, will Fig. 422.

Fig. 421.

— Connection of Ridge-pole Upright. Fig. 422. — End of Upright. Fig. 423. — End of Ridge-pole.

prevent the rods from

splitting them.

Fig. 421.

Fourteen Tent Stakes will

witli

be

required,

and these

should be prepared at home,

to save delay in pitching the tent after

you reach your

camping ground. Pitch your Tent

supply

if

possible,

upon a

level spot, close to

and dig a

little

your water

trench around

it

to

catch the surface rain-water, which would otherwise run into the tent

on the low

;

make

a couple of outlets from the trench,

side, so the

water

will drain

away.

Do

this

A Wall

Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly.

Flapjacks for Two.

CAMPING EQUIPMENT

341

trenching as soon as you have pitched your tent

you may be caught unprepared

wise, is

;

for a storm,

other-

and

it

unpleasant to be compelled to do the work during a

drenching

A

rain.

Tent Ground-cloth, which should

material, should

dampness

of waterproof

be laid upon the ground and lapped

up around the sides the

be

of

the

of

the

tent

;

this

will

prevent

ground from penetrating your

bedding. If

there are spruce or pine trees in the vicinity of your

camp, be sure To make a Mattress upon which to spread your blan-

Cut a number

kets.

of

boughs, and lop

off

enough

of

the tips of the branches to form a good-sized pile of twigs.

Then

carry

these

to

your tent and, beginning

at the

proper point for the head of your bed, place a row of the twigs

back

upon the ground-cloth with the

of the tent.

tips

toward the

Next, place another layer of the twigs

over these, and lap the tips over the butt ends of the

first

row, and continue to lay row after row in this manner,

which

is

just the

way

in

which the shingles on a roof

are lapped, until you have reached the foot of the bed.

The degree

of softness of this mattress will

depend en-

upon the care with which the twigs are placed and how well the butt ends are concealed by the tips. To

tirely

avoid hard lumps, use only the slender portions of the branches.

your bed

Spread your blanket upon the mattress, and will

be complete.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

342 If

the nights are cold in the region in which you intend

to camp, take along

A

By

Sleeping-bag.

folding over your blanket along

the center, lengthwise, and then sewing

it

along the side

and across the bottom, a very satisfactory bag may be made. The author has found such a bag very comfort-

when camping

able, and,

in the

mountains where the

temperature at night drops below "freezing," has used

two

of these bags, slipping

With

double warmth.

around your neck, there

one inside

of the other, to give

the top of the bag pulled snugly is

no

possibility for the cold air

The bag can be turned inside out every morning and aired. With covers in common, you are to reach you.

likely to

one

awaken some

of the other

with

night, feeling cold, to find

boys has been over-generous to himself

the clothes, unless you

your portion

that

know how

to " cling " to

but with a sleeping-bag you are safe from

;

disturbance.

Other Equipment.

No

two boys

will carry the

same

equipment with them when going camping, and every boy will find after he has reached camp that he has taken along lots of needless things and

which would add greatly

left

behind many

to his comforts

;

but this

thing which most campers experience, and ever a

man

carries exactly the

the reason that he

he can make

it

est trouble lies

is

same

outfit

continually finding

it is

articles is

some-

doubtful

on two

if

trips, for

some way wherein

more compact and complete. The generally in taking along too much.

great-

The

CAMPING EQUIPMENT camp

location of your

what special

articles

will

343

determine to a great extent

should be included in the

outfit,

an experienced camper, familiar with that part

and

of the

country, will be a good one to consult about your require-

ments.

A

frying-pan, kettle, saucepan, baking pan, coffee-pot,

wash-basin, two water pails, tin plates and cups, spoons,

knives and forks, and a can-opener will be required for the kitchen outfit

and towels,

;

matches, a lantern and a can of kerosene

about complete the general equipment. to take

several sizes of nails,

penny, and 20-penny,

which you

An

will

—

It is

good plan

a

lo-penny, 16-

for there will probably be things

Lamp

for locating things in

nails, will just

— 8-penny,

wish to make while

Electric Flash

candles, an

oil,

sharpening stone, hammer, saw and

ax, a

and twine,

rags, soap, rope

is

a very

in

camp.

handy

and about the

article to

tent,

have

when you do

not care to bother with lighting your lantern. Packing.

Wrap your matches

in parafiine paper,

and

then place them in a tin can to protect them from dampness

;

and put

in small

sacks all

all

the other small articles of your equipment

bags provided with draw strings

maybe

fixed for the purpose.

other things

belonging

which are not too bulky,

;

salt

Pack the

to the general

in grocery boxes.

and

flour

sacks,

and

equipment

When

you

get to camp, you will find the boxes handy for keeping

and those not required make good stools and will be good things

in,

for this purpose will for setting things on.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

344

A

Safety Match box, a strong jack-knife, and fishing-

made a part of the personal equipment the camping party, and if each has

tackle should be of

each boy

A will

Dufile

of

Box

(Fig. 424) in

which

to carry his outfit, he

save a general mix-up of things, possible loss of small articles, and result-

ing

unpleasantness

the other fellow

may

think

is

with

whom

he

to blame.

A grocery box will serve the

purpose,

but

this

should be gone over carefully,

and

nails

show signs

all

boards whose of loosen-

ing should have additional nails

Fig. 424.

— Camp Duffle Box. — Strap Handle. Fig. 426. — Pocket on Inside of Cover. Fig. 424.

Fig. 425.

into

them.

Batten together the cover

boards on the inside, hinge

them hinges,

driven

to the

box with

strap-

and fasten a hasp to the front so the box may be

padlocked for transporting, and whenever you are away

from camp.

Handles may be made out

strap, or several thicknesses of cloth tape,

to the

of

box with screws

(Fig. 425).

By

of pieces of a

and be secured

fastening a piece

canvas or heavy cloth to the inside of the cover,

over the battens (Fig. 426), tacking edge, and

making buttonholes

in

it

along the bottom

the side and upper

edges to button over large-head tacks, the space be-

;

CAMPING EQUIPMENT tween the battens

a pocket for writing

serve as

will

345

materials.

any boy

If

your party has had experience

in

cooking, leave to

him

the matter of purchasing

But

Food Supplies.

if

you are

had better get your mothers grocery

Each mother

list.

camp

in

"

all

green

" at

you

it,

you make out your have a pretty fair idea

to help will

of the size of her son's appetite,

and

it

ought

be an

to

easy matter for her to estimate on the proper quantities

and

varieties of supplies to

do him.

But she should be

warned, beforehand, to allow for an increased appetite also

to

such things as can easily be prepared.

select

Then compare

all

the

lists

and compile one complete

list

from them. Fish and

but

upon

this as a certainty,

and

know

that

along plenty of everything, unless you

your camp If

possibly be secured while in camp,

best not to count

it is

to take

game may

you are

to be Cook, find out

ham mui^ns, mother

biscuits,

to see

and tea

;

be within easy reach of supplies.

will

also

how try

how

to

make

flapjacks, gra-

and johnny-cake, and watch your

she prepares breakfast cereals, coffee,

your hand

at

cooking these things

while at home, instead of waiting until you get into

and starving your companions, as well as the experimental period.

ness

all

The

It will

yourself,

camp

during

save lots of unpleasant-

around. trouble

met with

Making an Open Fire

in

for

cooking generally arises from

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

346

getting

What

it

is

too large, so that

necessary

is

a small

it

is

fire

all

blaze and smoke.

of hot coals.

If

have watched an experienced camper prepare his

you fire,

you have noticed that he confines it to a small place. The Backwoodsman's Scheme of building his fire between two logs placed alongside of each other, about 6 inches apart at one end and 1 2 inches apart at the other end (Fig.

Fig. 427.

— The Backwoodsman's Camp Fireplace.

very satisfactory for a fireplace, as the

427),

is

fined

between the

logs, and,

is

obtained. fire

from

mud against

their

logs should be green, and, to prevent the

getting under them,

Two

inner faces.

it is

con-

by keeping the wide opening

turned toward the wind, a splendid draft

The

fire is

well to plaster

forked branches are driven into the

ground, one at each end of the fireplace, and a horizontal pole,

known

as a lug pole, rests in the forks

the pothooks.

and supports

CAMPING EQUIPMENT

347

The Pothooks may be made from forked sticks cut to the proper length, with nails driven into

them near the

lower ends (Fig. 428), or out of pieces of heavy wire bent into

hooks

at

one end and loops

made

429), the loops being

large

at the other

enough so they

end (Fig. will

shde

back and forth on the lug pole. Both the stick and wire pothooks

may

made

be

short

enough

to

accommodate the largest pot you have, and then lengthened to suit the small utensils by means of

Fig. 429.

S-shaped extension hooks bent out of wire (Fig. 430)

.

from an empty

tin

tacked

the

across

coffee-pot

and

A piece can logs

of tin

may

1

be

/Fig. 430.

the

for

u

for handleless uten-

Fig. 428. sils

which are too small

for the pic.

Fig. 429-

logs to support. f^

'

^

Such

a

428.'

r

ii

^

i

above

fireplace as the

FiG.

4'?o.

-Stick Pothook Wire Pothook.

— — Extension Hook.

back yard, with perfect safety, and any boy can use his ingenuity to rig up his pothooks and supports out of plain sticks if he cancan be built anywhere, even

in a

not find suitable branches for the purpose.

A

Sheet-iron

Camp

Stove,

tograph opposite page 340, campers, and

open

fire.

A

is

shown in the phovery commonly used by

such as is

is

handier and easier to cook on than the

stove of the size

shown

in the illustration

can usually be bought complete with stovepipe for $1.50.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

348

A

Dutch Oven

is

a

good

substitute for the

camp

stove,

It consists of a and answers almost every purpose. shallow iron pan or kettle, supported upon iron legs and

furnished with a tight-fitting cover. of red-hot coals,

meat,

roasted

then after the biscuits, muffins, beans,

or other food which

fish,

is

to be baked, stewed, or

placed in the pan, the cover

is

a bed

It is set in

is fitted

on and

A

hot coals are heaped up at the sides and over the top.

medium-sized oven

A Camp

will cost $i.oo.

Fireless Cooker

inasmuch

is

another handy contrivance,

as food can be prepared in

while you are

it

away from camp, so that it will be ready to eat immeA diately upon your return at night tired and hungry. cooker

may

be constructed out of a grocery box; and

hay or dried leaves may be used

for packing.

See

direc-

By on page 136 for making a fireless cooker. setting the cooker box into a hole in the ground, and tions

throwing earth over the cover within, the insulation will be

after placing

more nearly

the food

perfect.

To build a Fire properly, whittle a few shavings and cut a

number

of small sticks,

of a lead-pencil

and others a

— some

to

about the

size

— spread

the

little larger,

shavings along the bottom of the fireplace, and upon these pile up the sticks, loosely and crisscrossed, so as to

allow plenty of openings for draft. ings,

and

as soon as the sticks

larger pieces of

put on too

many

wood

Set

fire to

the shav-

have kindled, add a few

to the pile;

pieces before the

but be careful not fire

has

made

to

a good

CAMPING EQUIPiMENT Start,

or you will choke out the flame.

349

A

good

fire

Is

obtained only by careful building, and requires continual

camp cooking. good supply of wood at hand, some

attention to be satisfactory for

Always keep a

place under cover where

and dew, so you

which

to kindle

Camp

comforts of

camp

fire.

A

Furniture.

be protected from rain

never be without dry wood with

will

your

will

it

life,

and a few seats add

table

and the making

interesting occupation for days

to the

of these furnishes

when you wish

to stay

The three tools mentioned among the camp equipment are all that are necessary for making camp furniture, because fine around

work

is

camp.

neither required nor desir-

able in the woods.

Figure 431 shows

A Camp You

Chair that

is

easily

will notice that the

the pieces are

left

being beveled to

made.

edges of

all

square, instead of fit

the adjoining

surfaces, that the seat board

B

is

Fig. 431.

nailed to the diagonal brace C,

— A Camp Chair.

and

D

A, with cleats nailed on to support them, and that the diagonal and is slanted as much as you wish to have the chair leg back slant, and Is braced by the two side braces G. the two fastened to the chair back

E F

A Camp Table (Fig.

432).

By fastening

together several

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

350

boards with battens, a good table top can be made, and this

may

be supported at one end on a cleat nailed across a tree trunk (Fig. 433), and at the other end

on a couple

of stakes

driven into the ground (Fig. 432).

Boxes can usually be picked up in the vicin-

A Camp Table

and Bench. Cleat Support on Tree.

Fig. 433.

an old camp, and

these,

added to those

in

Fig. 432.

Fig. 432.

ity of

which you brought

your

outfit,

ized for

A

Good Table Bench

is

can be

many

util-

things.

obtained by laying a plank across

the tops of two boxes (Fig. 432), and

A

Comfortable Box Bench

is

made by removing one

side

of a box, then placing the

box on the ground, bottom up,

and

constructing

back as shown

To keep

it

Use

in Fig. 434.

from overturn-

ing, nail the

driven

a

into

your

box

to stakes

the

ground.

ingenuity

in

constructing

Box Cupboards to hang in the tent and upon the trees.

^^^- 434-

-A Comfortable Box Bench.

fHMlMy^HX^ '

_i

CHAPTER XXII A HOME-MADE PUNT

Good workmanship is necessary so much for the sake of appearance ability,

but neat appearance

in a properly

will

in boat building,

as for safety

not

and dur-

not be found lacking

The

planned and carefully built boat.

nearer a boat approaches the square lines of a box, the easier

it is

to build,

and

it is

well for a

the simplest forms, such as the punt for a first attempt. easily learned, will

and

The after

boy to

shown

try

one of

in Fig. 435,

principles of boat building are

you have constructed a punt you

have had enough experience

to enable

you

to tackle

other forms of craft of more complicated construction. Dimensions.

The punt shown

feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide,

in the illustration is 12

and 18 inches deep, but

these dimensions can easily be increased or reduced

you wish a boat Material. terial,

free is

of other proportions.

Get pine or cypress

and be sure

to see that

from knots and other

generally

if

hard to

it is

defects.

find,

for

your building ma-

well seasoned, dry,

and

Stock 18 inches wide

nowadays,

in

most

localities,

so probably you will have to use an 8-inch and a lo-inch 351

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

352

board, or a 6-inch and a

1

2-inch board, for each side.

The

bottom boards should be either 4 or 6 inches wide and BEV/EL

Fig. 435-

— A Home-made Punt. — How the Bottom Boards are Put On. the Bottom Edge of the Stem and Stern Pieces. Fig. 437. — Bevel

Fig. 435. Fig. 436.

off

have plain edges, not tongued and grooved, and the seats

may

be

made

of

Fig. 438.

any scraps you have on hand.

— Batten Together the Side Boards

Figure 438 shows

like this.

how

The Side Boards should be battened

toofether.

Make

the center batten 10 inches wide and the other two battens about 4 inches wide

;

fasten the latter in place about

A HOME-MADE PUNT Short nails

24 inches from the ends.

353

will

not hold such

pieces as battens very well, and the clinching of

where they are exposed

nails,

able, so

it

a

is

good plan

long

to view, is not very desir-

to use screws of the

proper

length for the purpose.

When

the boards of the side pieces have been battened

B

together, locate the points

4 inches below the top edge,

then connect them with points

AB,

as shown,

and saw

off the

A

by the diagonal

ends on these

lines

lines.

Cut the Stem and Ste:n Pieces 4 inches wide and 3 feet 4 inches long, then turn the side pieces over on their top edge as

tween

shown

and

in Fig. 436,

fit

these pieces be-

their ends.

Cut the Bottom Boards

3 feet 6 iiiches long,

4-inch or 6-inch boards mentioned before.

and the edges

of the side pieces

of

out of the

Coat the edges

each bottom board

with white lead, and drive each board as close as possible

Use copper or galvanized

to the preceding piece.

for fastening the boards; these will stand the

nails

exposure

to water, but wire or wrought-iron nails without galva-

nizing will not, and will soon rust through and break

The bottom edge

of the

stem and stern pieces

to be beveled off with a plane as

also

edge

one edge of the

the boards

of the first

and

bottom boards fit

shown

last

will

off.

have

in Fig. 437, as will

bottom boards, and one

at the ridges, in order to

make

together perfectly at those points.

Fasten an Inner Ke>

along the center,

1

fre ,n

Board to the bottom of your boat

bow

to stern, as a protection to

354

..._

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

A

HOME-MADE PUNT

355

and a ^-inch hole from the center of the top down through each for the rowlock to drop into. The

end

for bolting,

socket plate (Fig. 440), which comes with the rowlock,

should be set into the block flush with the top.

Bolt the

blocks to the sides of the punt (Fig. 441) so the centers will

be 14 inches from the center of the center seat.

In case you cannot conveniently get rowlocks. Thole-pins

may

made and used

be

as

a substitute.

Figure 442 shows a pin cut from a piece of broom-handle, and Fig. 443 shows how a pair of them should be set into holes bored in a block similar to those

The

rowlocks.

shown

for the

holes for the pins should be placed about

3 inches apart.

The Painter

may

be knotted on the end and slipped

through a hole bored notch

may

in

the stem piece, and a circular

be cut in the top edge of the stern piece to

admit an oar or paddle for steering. Finishing.

made, and

all

Set

all

nail-heads, putty

other holes and defects,

up the holes thus and then give the

boat two or three coats of lead paint, inside and out, color to suit your taste.

in

CHAPTER

XXIII

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE

Although

there

is

more work

to the construction of

a sharpie than the punt described in the last chapter, is

much

easier to

bow; at the same no more than that boat

is

row on account

of its

it

wedge-shaped

time, the material required will cost for the other boat.

The

flat-bottom

generally considered one of the best forms of

cheap rowboats, and you

Fig. 444.

upon the

rivers

at private piers.

find

it

in

common

use

— A Home-made Sharpie.

and small It is

will

lakes, at

summer

resorts

and

not difficult to build one.

Figure 444 shows a sharpie 1 3 feet long, 3 feet 6 inches wide amidships, and 18 inches deep Dimensions.

356

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE

You may you

do,

alter these proportions

every part will it

you wish,

draw out your revised plan and

sizes for all the pieces before

As

if

is

fit

357

but, in case

figure

out the

beginning work, so that

properly.

difficult to

get boards wider than 14 inches,

Fig. 449.

— Pattern for the Side Pieces. — Two Forms of Stem-piece. Fig. 447. — Pattern for the Stern-piece. Fig. 448. — Pattern for the Stretcher. Fig. 449. — How the Above Pieces are put Together.

Fig. 445. Fig. 446.

and 12 inches will

have

is

usually the widest stock material, you

to use either a 12-inch

and a 6-inch board, or a

lo-inch and an 8-inch board, for

The Side

Pieces.

The boards should be

of i-inch stock,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

358

and should be dressed on both

Figure 445 shows the pattern for the lower boards, with the dimensions for cutting the slants

sides.

on the bow and stern ends.

Cut the Stem-piece like one of the forms shown in Fig.

A

446.

is

neater appearing bow, as side pieces;

B

the simpler form to cut, but

finishes off the ends of the

it

the side boards

the sides of piece B.

If

makes the

fit

form

into the rabbets cut in

A

is

used, the ends of

the side pieces must be finished off by nailing a strip 3 inches wide to the edges of the side pieces and the stempiece (C, Fig. 452).

Figure 447 shows the pattern for The Stern-piece, and Fig. 448 shows the pattern for

The

Stretcher,

both

which should be prepared as

of

soon as the stem-piece has been To put together the

sides,

the stretcher (Fig. 449),

first

cut.

stem-and stern-pieces, and nail

the

ends of the side

them

pieces to the stem-piece, then nail

to the

ends

of

the stretcher, which should be placed in the exact center of the

length of the sides.

Draw

the stern ends toward

each other until they are of the required distance apart for the stern-piece to

fit

between, and tack a temporary

piece across the edges to hold 449).

It is

amount,

them

in position

(Fig.

necessary to bend each side piece the same

in order to turn out a boat

which

will

not have

a tendency to swerve to one side with each stroke of the oars,

and the best way

to get the sides symmetrical

is

by

attaching a cord to a nail driven into the center of the

I

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE end

of

the

stem-piece, stretching

length of the boat and holding stern-piece (Fig. 449) stretcher,

;

if

it

359

along the entire

it

at the center of the

this crosses the center of the

you may know that the work

right,

is

can fasten the stern ends permanently

in

does not cross the stretcher at the center, simple matter to bend one side piece a other a

little

less, until

little

and you

place; it

will

if

it

be a

more and the

the string crosses the center of

the bow, stern, and stretcher in a straight line.

The

may may be

stretcher

or the nails

Fig. 450.

they

may

be fastened permanently driven part

way

in place,

in (Fig. 450) so

— How the Bottom Boards are put On.

be removed and the stretcher taken out after

the center seat has been put in place and the bracing

no longer required.

The

is

top boards of the sides should

be nailed on as soon as the framework has been trued up,

and the ends

of these

should be cut off even with the

stem- and stern-pieces.

The Bottom Boards should be either 4-inch or 6-inch boards of i-inch stock, dressed on two sides and two edges.

Get the dryest material you can,

for the pieces

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

360

must not shrink to any marked degree after being put in place or the seams will open and cause the boat to leak dry stuff will swell when exposed to the water, and ;

up very

the seams will close

The boards must

tight.

Before putting on

not have tongued-and-grooved edges. the boards,

it

be necessary to plane

will

off the

bottom

edges of the side pieces, because, as a result of the

change

in the twist of the

stern, these

edges

will

is

bottom

to.

Do

be slightly curved.

carefully so as to provide a straight nail the

bow and

boards between the

this

work

and true surface

Cut the boards a

little

to

longer than

necessary, and then, starting at the stern end, nail the

pieces in place, driving each board as tight as possible

The edges

against the preceding piece.

of the boards

and the side pieces should be given a thick coat lead to caulk up the seams.

See instructions given on

putting /^^^ 72/

It

of white

the

bottom

(page 353). will not be

attach

a

keel

of

for

the

necessary to

along the entire

length of the bottom of the boat,

but Fig. 451.

— Attachment Skes:.

in I

Fig. 451.

-inch stuff

of

A for

Skeg

should

be

prepared

the sloping stern as shown

This triangular piece may be cut out

and should be

of the

proper size

nailed in place, the lower edge will line straight part of the

bottom

of the boat,

so,

of

when

up with the

and the end

will

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE up with the face

line

361

The

of the stern-piece.

illustration

shows how the piece should be attached and braced with small wooden strips. The skeg must be in an exact line with the center of the

bow and

stern

;

position can be

its

determined by stretching a cord through the centers.

The

end

strip at the

of

the skeg not only holds this

piece to the stern, but forms a strip in which to screw

the screw-eyes for the rudder hooks.

Fasten an Inner Keel Board in the bottom as described

on page 353

for the

Punt.

Seats should be fastened in the

shown

in the center as

ported upon is

to

bow and

cleats,

make them continuous

between the side boards.

bow and

in Fig. 439,

The

Bow

stern seats as

444.

as

shown

of the

will

Batten together the pieces of

shown

you have made stem-piece

Fig. 446), cut strip 3 inches wide,

C

{A,

(Fig. 452)

and long enough

from i^ inches above

the stem-piece side of the

down

under

to the

bottom boards

;

^^^ ^^^.-FiniThingof Bow.

then

prepare two triangular pieces similar to strip

cover the seams

Boat should be

If

wedge-shaped

to extend

in the illustration,

page 354.

completed next. a

and

These should be supand the neatest way to put on the cleats in Fig.

and fasten them low enough so they the

stern ends

C and screw them in place

as

D to

shown.

If

fit

against

stem-piece

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

362

B

was

used (Fig. 446),

(Fig. 452) against

it

fit

in the

two pieces similar

to

D

same way.

For the Painter secure a small staple, and a yacht or harness iron ring, and attach these to the

bow

as

shown

in Fig. 452.

An

Easily

Made Rudder

is

shown

in Figs.

453

to 457.

Figure 453 shows it completed; Fig. 454 shows how screweyes are screwed into the strip fastened to the stern-piece,

Fig. 453.

Fig. 456

Fig. 454Figs. 453-457.

into

which

to

hook the rudder hooks and

and 457 show the

The

— Details of an Easily Made Rudder. ;

Figs. 455, 456,

details for constructing the rudder.

rudder (Fig. 457) should be mortised to receive the end of the rudder, as shown, cross-bar of

the

and a hole should be bored through the rudder through which to drive a pin to hold the cross-bar in place

Get two 7-inch iron hooks {A, Fig. 456), bend the ends out straight, and then bend a new 4-inch hook on each {B, Fig. 456). Screw these hooks in the (Fig. 455).

A HOME-MADE SHARPIE proper positions so they

will

hook

^6s

into the screw-eyes in

the stern.

The Rowlock Blocks should be prepared and attached as shown in Fig. 441 or Fig. 443, page 354, and either Rowlocks

or Thole-pins

should be

fitted into

them

(Figs.

440 and 442, page 354). Finish the Boat as directed for the P?iu^ (see page 355)-

—

'jl:'

r^

—

m——rn — I

r"

I

r'

\

I

T-

I

CHAPTER XXIV PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER

HOME-MADE WAGONS '.Wy-.-jlh-wv-i/i

With make

all

cart to

-^T

the necessary wheels in hand, sorts of wagons,

a

own

It

is

possible to

from a simple two-wheeled dog-

There are

model automobile.

a

number

which a boy can procure wheels

sources from doesn't

-

\\\-

of

he

if

Oftentimes a pair can be picked up

any.

second-hand store or at a junk shop, for 50 or 75 cents a pair; sometimes a neighbor who has a grown son

at a

can find a few for you by a

shed or barn

loft;

whom you can

A

and often you

strike a

cycle, velocipede,

Pushmobile

when

rummaging through

the

run across a boy with

will

Wagon, bicycle,

good bargain.

tri-

and baby-carriage wheels may be used. is

home-made wagon simple wagons which

a unique form of

that has been developed

the boys used to

little

make

from the

for coasting,

the automobile was

and

for

pushing from

unknown.

is

pat-

terned as nearly as possible after an automobile, and

it is

behind,

It

pushed by the mechanician, who runs behind, while the driver rides and attends to the steering. tails for

making one

in Figs.

458

of these

to 471. 364

Working

de-

unique wagons are shown

Some of the Competing Cars in the Flushing Pushmobile Club Races.

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS

Towne

Paul the

boy

first

rivalry

of Flushing,

to build a

Long

Island,

365

was probably

pushmobile, and as a result of the

which sprang up among the boys who made

Fig. 458.

— A Pushmobile.

similar "machines," each of

vantages for his

whom

claimed superior ad-

car,

The Flushing Pushmobile Club was organized

autumn

of

1906 for the purpose of promoting pushmo-

The Brooklyn Daily

bile races.

in the

Tzjnes of Dec. 15, 1906,

contained an interesting account of the work of the club,

from which the following details are taken

:

—

/'The Flushing Club has held reer.

The

first

of several of its races

three great races during

was an intersuburban

affair

its

active ca-

and was to determine

whether championship honors should go to Flushing, College Point, or Bayside, membership in the club being from tries.

The honors

in this race

all

these

went to Flushing,

*

foreign

'

for President

counPaul

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

366

Towne and

his brother

Herbert were the winners.

Many

for the Vanderbilt cup, so called.

ing merchants contributed toward tion

came from Mr.

Vanderbilt.

According to the deed of

come

gift

the

the property of the winner.

fluke, for the car

it,

The second

of the Murray Hill and Flush-

but the largest individual subscrip-

The trophy was valued at over 1^50. trophy must be won three times to beThe first race for this cup ended in a

winning the race was protested.

that the race should

be run over.

and Lawrence, who won the

first

The

under the circumstances.

race was

The second race.

It

was then decided

event was

won by Brown

This was a very popular victory

was a race

third big event

Reiger

for the

cup, a beautiful trophy presented by Charles Reiger of Flushing.

event brought out the cars in the race.

This

strength of the club, for there were twenty

full

The trophy was won by Donahue and Johnson."

The photographs

show

opposite page 364

several of

the competing machines, while those opposite this page

show the

start of

one

of the club's races

The winning team

winning teams.

and one

of the

in

The Vanderbilt Cup Race covered the course, which was ten times around a city block, in 27 minutes and 12 seconds.

You

This was one

of the

most interesting

races.

by the photographs that the boys have shown considerable ingenuity in working out the plans for

will notice

their

pushmobiles.

Various

kinds

and

sizes

of

wheels have been used; some of the bodies are built low

and others high

;

some

of the

after foreign racing machines,

models have been copied

and others have been

terned after roadsters and runabouts.

been made

The hoods have

of grocery boxes, sheet metal, barrel

covered with canvas, or built up with box boards boy,

who wanted

pat-

;

hoops

and one

to get the pointed nose effect of the

Winning Car

Xi

iiiE

Start Off.

in

A

the V^anderbilt Cup Race

111 suing Pi shmobile Club Race.

•

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS French

used the sawed-o£f bow of a row boat for

racer,

To furnish

his.

and

the " chug," " chug,"

dummy

automobile, one lad equipped a line engine,

367

and

"

smell

the

car with a gaso-

was run over the course

this

" of

for the

benefit of the spectators.

The Brooklyn Daily Times published interesting Description of a Pushmobile Race "Is a pushmobile race exciting? tators

who crowd

interesting as a real auto race.

score-cards, pencils,

come to

that one leads.

One

The

car

is

There are spurts

This car

gaining a lap on in

it is

happens,

only there

The

first

is

with

The

cars

takes an expert

now ahead, and then

is

the rest and looks like a

which the boys on the cars use every

not a breakdown

woman

by each man and finish.

all

It

As the contest comes

Now

seen that some two or three are leading.

if

almost as

cars are timed for each lap.

at a time.

of strength and endurance they possess. close,

is

men and women

be

will

it

not more, than in the big races.

the records accurately.

all

winner.

There

and half a dozen

singly, three, four,

keep

if

you that

will tell

and stop-watches.

Seconds count as much,

—

:

Ask any of the hundreds of spec-

They

the course.

the following

!

That

with the score-card.

is

the

Then

if

bit

to a

no accident

hope expressed the rush for the

car to complete the ten laps, and then the figuring for

elapsed time, and finally the declaration of the winner and the shouts for the successful car."

Now, boys, if you have not become after reading the

fired

with enthusiasm

above accounts of the

work

of

the

Flushing Pushmobile Club, the author has missed his

work and construct a machine like the one shown in Fig. 458 and described upon the following pages, then show it to your boy friends, and the

guess

;

if

you

have, get to

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

368

chances are there

be enough machines in your town

will

make

within a few days to

it

possible to

a Pushmobile Club, or to

Organize

make pushmobile

racing a feature of your present neighborhood or school club.

When

To construct a Pushmobile.

procuring wheels

for a pushmobile, get the iron axle rods

washers that belong to the wheels, easy enough to are lost, but

if

refit

New

;

will

it

nuts and washers to the axles

you

A

Axles.

fit

if

be

they

find another

have

will

the proper diameter to

procured

possible

you cannot get the axles or

pair that will do,

To make

if

and nuts and

couple of round iron rods of

the hubs of your wheels can be

almost any hardware store, wagon shop, or

at

blacksmith shop, and you can have them

proper length,

and

threaded for nuts,

cut

to

the

drilled

in

two

places near each end, by a machinist, plumber, or gasfitter.

You

wagon

before you can determine the length for the rods,

and

have

will

of course the length of the

The

be considered also. for

to decide

an iron

pin, the

from running too hole

is

made

first

upon the width wheel hubs

hole in the rod

purpose of which

far

will

back on the

is

to

axle,

is

of

your

have to

provided

keep the wheel

and the second

for a stove-bolt or screw for fastening the

iron axle to the

wooden

axle and

wagon-bed (Figs. 477

and 478). The Wooden Axles should be constructed first (Figs. 459 and 460). The sizes of these will depend upon the

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS

369

length of the iron axles, the height of the wheels, and

The drawings

whether you want a high or low body.

show

a machine with a

body that

higher than most of

is

^

E D

B-^

~D Iron Brace Fig. 460.

— The

Fig. 461.

that

shown

is

in the

— The

Rear Axle.

photographs, but this makes a car

easier for the mechanician to push, for he does

much.

After cutting out

B and ^ of

the proper widths

to stoop over as

not have piece

Fig. 459.

for the

Front Axle.

Front Axle.

those

— Brace

A, you must make

so the top of

B will

wheels are in place.

C

is

fastened to

B

A

when the by means of a

be level with the top of

king-bolt (Fig. 460).

Connect the wooden axles by means of a piece of 2by-2 {D, Figs. 459 to 462), and brace the king-bolt of the front axle to this strip with an iron strap, to prevent

it

from bending (Fig. 461); the brace should be about |inch thick and i inch wide, and should be bent and drilled as

shown

in Fig. 461.

The Wagon-bed pieces B^ and the tops of axle pieces

These

will

make your For the

A

B are 2-by-4's and connect

and B,

to

which they are

nailed.

be of whatever length you have determined to car.

Steering-wheel

driving-wheel,

if

possible,

get

an old sewing-machine

and use a broom-handle

for a

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

370

(The

front

end

Fig. 462.

— Framework of the Push mobile.

of the strip

F is

broken

off so that

you can see the

Serew the wheel

shaft (Fig. 463).

steering-gear.)

to the

end

of the

broom-handle (Fig. 465). If you cannot get a sewingmachine wheel, a wooden or iron wagon-wheel may be

The

wired to the end of the broom-handle (Fig. 466). -^<~. 1\^

Fig. 465.

Screw

must be provided with a drum upon which shaft

to fasten the steering ropes

(Figs. 462 this

Drum

— Steering-wheel — Three Disks

— How

machine Wheel Fig. 466.

Wheel

and Shaft

— How

to a

SewingBroom-handle.

to attach a

to a to

shown in Fig. 464. Lay out the center block

as

like these for

of Steering-wheel Shaft.

Fig. 465.

mxade

Fig. 464.

Pushmobile.

for the

Fig. 464.

drum should be

out of three circular blocks

Fig. 463.

Fig. 463.

and 463), and

wire

Broom-handle.

a

Wagon

3 inches in diameter,

and

the outer, or flange, blocks

4 inches before

in diameter,

cutting

and

them out

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS bore a i-inch hole through the center of each.

371

Nail the

drum over the fasten the drum

blocks together, and slip the completed

end

broom-handle

of the

in place until after

but do not

;

you have mounted the shaft on the

framework.

G

Fasten a board to the wagon-bed, as shown at

on blocks similar

462),

to the

to

H and /; the blocks must be cut

proper slant so the position of the board

at right angles to the steering-wheel shaft.

the cross-piece

and

Board

nails.

through

/to

its

the under side of strip

G

should have a

connect the

fasten

D with

a bolt

i-inch hole bored

way through

some strong

take

drum on

rope, pass

it

be

Then

strip

in line with the hole in G, for a socket for the

To

will

center for the steering shaft to turn

a hole should be bored part

shaft.

(Fig.

D,

in,

and

directly

end

of the

the shaft to the wheels,

around the drum, cross the

ends on the underside (Fig. 463), run them through screweyes screw^ed into the cross-piece /on each side of strip

D, and attach them

to the

ends of the wooden

important to cross the rope after passing

it

axle.

around the

drum, for otherwise the pushmobile w^ould turn left

when you

When fasten the

It is

to the

turn the wheel to the right, and vice versa.

the steering-gear has been carefully adjusted,

drum

to the shaft with a screw,

nail the steering line to the

drum

;

and screw or

also drive a pin into

the broom-handle about \ inch in front of board

G

to pre-

vent the shaft from pulling out of place (Figs. 462 and 463)-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

372

When the it is

frame of the pushmobile has been completed,

a simple matter to finish the body.

The Hood

is

made out of

a box with the cover

and bottom

removed, and a three-sided top constructed upon

cannot find a box of the right large box or build the

hood out

size,

it.

If

you

you can cut down a

of boards.

Figures 458

Fig. 470,

— Radiator-front. — Lard-can Headlight and Bracket. Fig. 469. — Clock-case and Can for Side Lamps. Fig. 470. — The Completed Clock-case Side Lamp. Fig. 471. — Seat for Auto Wagon. Fig. 467.

Fig. 468.

and 467 show the shape of the top. Fasten a small pill box to the top of the hood, as shown, for the cap to the "radiator" (Fig. 458).

After fastening the hood to the frame of the pushmobile, tack a piece of screen wire over the front for

The Radiator-front, and then attach a the edge, as

shown

strip of tin

in Fig. 467, to finish

it off.

around

\

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS

373

body are made out of a box cut down, and the rear end is built up of boards. The

Seat, back,

and arms

Two

Headlights.

of the

lard cans with their covers fitted

make splendid imitation headlights (Fig. 468). wooden brackets similar to A (Fig. 468), nail them

to the sides

of

on

Cut two or screw

the radiator-front, and then nail

or screw the cans to the brackets and to the radiatorfront.

Side Lamps.

Bicycle lamps

you can make lamps out

of

may

be used for these, or

the cases of two old alarm-

clocks (Figs. 469 and 470).

To make a Clock-case Side Lamp, remove the works from the case and put back the screws necessary to hold the glass in place of the

;

bottom

then cut a f-inch hole through the center for the candle,

and wire the case

top of a small tin can of about the size of a

i

to the

-pound

paint can, punching holes through the clock-case and the can through which to run

down

sets tin

back

in the

can and

of the clock-case.

is

the wire.

The

candle

lighted by removing the

Nail or screw the case to the

side of the hood.

Paint your Machine with two coats of paint, using any color

you choose.

body

of

Of course you

will

one color and the trimmings

want

to

make

the

of another.

Paint your License Number upon the radiator-front with

white or red paint.

A

Racing Pushmobile

may have

a

than the machine just described, or

much simpler body you may make por-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

374

tions removable so the

machine may be dismantled

for a

race.

An Auto Wagon. body

The wagon shown

built similar to that of the

Fig. 472.

the bed

is

made

in Fig.

472 has a

pushmobile, except that

— An Auto Wagon.

solid out of boards

i

inch thick.

Make

the sides out of 8-inch boards with a 2-inch strip nailed

along the top edge, and make the dashboard out of two pieces of board battened together.

The Steering-wheel should be made out of a sewingmachine wheel and piece of gas-pipe as shown in Fig. 473.

Get a

gas-fitter to

prepare a piece of gas-pipe with

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE WAGONS a

T connection

T

run through the tion,

and have him

of pipe near the

one end, and a short piece

at

crosswise, as

of pipe

in the illustra-

a hole through the vertical piece

drill

upper end, and two holes through the

— one near each end.

cross-piece

shown

375

Screw two screw-eyes

into the inside face of the dashboard, then slip the steer-

ing shaft through a hole bored through the bottom of the wagon-bed, and through the screw-

Fasten the wheel to the end of

eyes.

the pipe by

means of

through the hole

in the

Screw-eve

pipe and wheel

some wire around the pipe

hub, wrap

on a

a metal pin driven

line with the top of the

and solder

it

in place, to

dashboard,

keep the pipe

from slipping down (Fig. 473), and run rope or chain from the ends of the lower

Fig. 473.

— Details

of

Sewing-machine Wheel and Gas-pipe

a

cross-piece to the axle ends.

The steering Steering: wheel. shaft and cross-piece may be made of wood, but of course the iron pipe scheme is much stronger and is much better Another Steering-gear.

in the case of the

auto wagon, where the weight of the

comes directly over the wheels, bringing a greater If you want to, you may rig up strain upon each part. a dummy steering-wheel and shaft, and provide for steer-

driver

ing by running ropes from the axle ends around the sides of the

wagon

attend to

method

it.

to the back, It

where the mechanician can

might be a good plan

of steering,

anyway, so

to provide for this

in case

you give a child

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

376

a ride at

any time you can place him

do the steering yourself from the Build the Seat as into each of the

to hold

end

wagon it

shown

of the seat, in the

rear.

in Fig. 471,

and screw a hook

and a screw-eye into each side

proper position for

securely to the

and

in the front seat

wagon

it

to

hook

into,

sides.

Procure a Trip Gong for the front of the dashboard, or

upon

fasten an electric bell side of the

A

2-inch plank, 6 or 8 inches

should be procured for

Fig. 474.

The Wagon-bed but of course thicker

in-

wagon.

Figure 474 shows A Simple Push Wagon. in width,

and place a dry battery

it

piece

it

;

— A Simple Push Wagon.

a board will

would

i

may be

inch thick

used,

not have the stiffness that have.

Also

get

a

strong

the box.

PUSHMOBILES AND OTHER HOME-MADE VVAGOxNS

377

knock out one end, nail a cleat to the ends of the side and bottom boards to hold them together, and fasten the box to one end of the wagon-bed as shown in Figs. 474 and 475. The Rear Wheels should be 16 or 18 inches in diameter and should set under the center of the box (Fig. 475). Nail two blocks of the same thickness as the wagon-bed to the

bottom

of the box,

and fasten the axle across them .NUT

/^Washer

-Batten

— Bottom View of Wagon-bed. — The Way attach the Rear Axle. attach the Front Axle. Figs. 478 and 479. — The Way

Fig. 475.

Figs. 476 and 477.

to

to

running a stove-bolt or screw through the holes (Figs. 477 and 478), and using either staples or nails bent over as additional fastenings (Figs. 476 to

as shown,

Drive a metal pin through the outer hole in the axles to keep the hubs of the wheels from rubbing against the wood (Figs. 477 and 478).

478).

The Axle

for the Front

Wheels

is

fastened to a

wooden

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

378

axle (Fig. 478),

which

in turn is pivoted to

bed by means of a king-bolt as shown 479.

in

the wagon-

Figs. 478 and

Bore a hole through the wagon-bed for the

bolt,

and put washers where shown before screwing the nut in place.

T'lI

I

,

CHAPTER XXV BIRD-HOUSES \\v

-iih-\\\^//l

\\\

Birds seem to show a practical rather than an sense in choosing their homes, and, unlike

us,

artistic

do not care

whether their houses are plain or highly ornamented.

A

common box

an

attraction

as

properly arranged

is

one on which a great deal

been spent in working out fancy doorways,

provided

it

ample protection from and where there insects

food

for

will

placed

is

roofs,

of

porches, and

and other enemies

cats

of

time has

where there

will

be

of birds,

be a plentiful supply of seeds and

near

by,

and

water for

But carefully designed houses,

bath.

much

just as

drink and

of course,

appear

more pleasing to us, so it is best to take pains in planning and constructing our garden neater

and

bird homes.

Tomato

cans, apple

and sugar

barrels, fish kegs, nail

kegs and white lead kegs, cheese boxes, butter

firkins,

wooden pails, and small boxes such as soap and starch come in can be procured by any boy, and from these ma-

many kinds of houses that can be made. variety of new ideas for easily made houses

terials there are

You

will find a

379

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

38o ill

this chapter,

and the materials mentioned are

suffi-

cient for the greater part of the construction of these.

A Box

Bird-house such as

made out pieces

shown

is

in Fig.

480 can be

may

cut out the

an empty starch box, or you

of

and put together the box

In case you

yourself.

make

the box, the

top edge of the end pieces can be cut

slanted to allow for Fig. 480. Details of a

the

Fig. 481.

Box Lean-to

Bird-house.

but

ready-made box, a triangular piece to the

edges {A, Fig. 481),

will

slanted

roof,

you use a

if

have

to

be added

you make the box, cut the

If

center partition, which divides the box into two bird com-

partments, the same size as the end pieces; but for a box already made, cut this piece

and then use

first

it

for a pat-

tern for laying. out the triangular pieces to be added to the

The doorway

ends. knife

;

in

each end can be cut with a jack-

this will be very easy to

pieces, for

do

if

the ends are in two

one half of the hole can be cut out of the edge

of

each piece (Fig. 481).

For wrens and other small birds the holes need not be more than i inches in diameter; and 3 inches will admit J-

any

of the larger birds that

may

be attracted to your

boxes.

After the ends of the box have been pieced out, nail a strip to the

back

to

the roof board large

make

it

enough

of the

so

it

same

height, then cut

will project

about

i

inch

BIRD-HOUSES

381

over the front and ends of the box, and nail Fit the perch sticks into holes bored in the

box as shown

may be mounted upon

look better

will

if

A

and nailed

to the wall, or a

or 8

than the box

longer

inches

may

a clothes-post, but

wooden bracket may be cut out

its roof.

6

ends of the

bracketed to a wall on account of

the style of

strip

in place.

in Fig. 480.

This house it

it

be nailed to

the back and the ends of this nailed to the wall (Fig. 480).

Another Box Bird -house

shown

in

Fig. 482.

is

This

is

similar to a house which the

boys of some of the Chicago public structed

schools

and placed

trees of the

addition

The how

have

of

conin

the

parks, with

the

pan

the

bath. Fig.

482,

— Another

Box

Bird-

shows clearly house with a Pan for Drinking Water. the back, sides, and roof are cut and fitted together, and how the water pan is bracketed out from the low^er end of the back board, and I

am

illustration

going to

let

you work out the

sizes for the various

what you think they ought to be. The lower portion of the back board may be screwed or nailed to a wall or post, or if you omit the pan and place the box in a tree, it can be tied securely by running pieces according to

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

382

a piece of clothes-line several times around

it

and the

tree

trunk.

A

cheese-box cover and one of the small kegs in which

mackerel and herring come to the market furnishes the materials for

A

making

shown in Fig. 483. The keg must be thoroughly washed out with hot water and either Bird Tower such as

washing soda or

remove the

lye,

fish odor.

is

and should be painted Bore four openings

inside, to

in the side of

the keg, and fasten a perch stick in a

small hole below each opening.

The illustration shows the keg mounted upon the end

of a rug-pole, but

cannot get one

you

the top of a

these,

of

if

clothes-post, or a piece of 2-by-4 set into

the

ground,

will

serve

the

purpose.

Nail the keg to the support, then set top and

the cheese-box cover on it

nail

in place.

The lower perches should run through the support as

and may be

shown

in the illustration,

of pieces of

broken

flagstaffs

or cabinet-maker's dowel sticks.

Figure 487 shows Fig. 487.

—A

Tin

can Bird Tower.

A

Tin-can Bird Tower.

This

out of empty tomato cans.

Is

made

Cut a hole

i^ inches in diameter in the side of three cans about i^ inches

from the top; do not remove the piece

of tin,

3D

o

CO

O

Q

ac

O

QO

6 Cm

BIRD-HOUSES but bend

3^3

out as shown in Fig. 488 to form a perch.

it

Then remove

the top of one can {A, Fig. 489) and the top and bottom of the other two

As

cans {B and C, Fig. 489).

the

ends are generally soldered on, is

ch

it

only necessary to hold a can over

D a flame until the solder melts, and

then

The

knock them

(Fig.

off

cans are joined

488).

together by

means of two circular blocks of wood {£ and /% Fig. 489), which divide

also

the

^

tower into three

compartments.

A

6-inch

tin

roof (D, Fig. 489),

and

a piece of a hatpin

(G)

fits

forms the

funnel

Fig. 488.

a cork with

stuck

into

it

Fig. 489.

into the spout of the funnel

for a spire.

Figs. 488 and 489.

Tack the edges of the cans to the wooden blocks, and wire the funnel roof to the upper can as shown in one end

of

to a small

— De-

of the Tin-can Bird

Tower shown

in Fig. 487.

Fig. 487, fastening

each wire to the funnel rim and the other end staple driven into the

the wires until the funnel to the top of

is

firm.

upper block.

Twist

Nail the bottom can

whatever support you provide for the tower.

Paint the tin to prevent

The Bird Castle shown built

tails

it

from rusting. in

Fig.

by the author a few years ago

484 was designed and for his garden.

The

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

384

corner towers of this are built like the tower in Fig. 487.

The

castle

measures 12 inches long,

inches high at the highest point, and the lowest point, and

is

made out

of

inches wide, 16

7

inches high at

1 1

box boards.

Figure 490 shows an end view of the castle with the tower of the opposite end in position. First cut the two

end pieces H, and a third piece

same shape and tion,

of the

size for a center parti-

then nail the front and back boards

/ and /

to

Cut the pieces

them.

K

dicated by the dotted lines

in-

to

fit

between the center partition and the end pieces, for a loft floor. Cut an opening for each compartment

in the

end pieces (Fig. 490). Nail the roof boards

— EndJ ^T View

place and fasten strip ^ ^

shown in Fig. 484, with One Tower in Position.

at the front (Fig. 490),

ir

Fig. 490.

X7

of Bird Castle

L

N

and

M

in

to the base

then mount the

^ platform II inches wide ^

^^^^j^ ^ ^ ^

and

24

inches

long.

Build

towers at the two corners, and nail each can corner of the castle as you put

The drawbridge

it

up the to

the

in place.

{O, Fig. 490) measures

2-J-

inches by

and suspend the other end by small brass chains fastened to the under 3I inches

side

and

;

hinge one end

to the

base

strip,

to the front wall.

Each can

of the towers has a circular

opening cut

in

it,

but the long narrow windows in the towers and front wall

BIRD-HOUSES

385

and the large doorway are painted. The walls should be painted white, and the roof green or red. of the castle

The nails

and the weather-vane are mounted upon stuck into corks, and the corks are pushed into the little flag

spouts of the funnels (Fig. 490).

Set a cup in the plat-

The

form, at each end. for drinking water.

castle

be bracketed upon a wall as shown in Fig. 484, or

may may

be mounted upon a post.

A

For the bird ark show^n

Bird Ark.

in Fig. 485, three

cans are joined together in the same manner as those of the towers are joined (Figs. 488 and 489).

Both ends

the center can are removed, but the bottom

end cans.

Cut a i|-inch hole

is left

of

on the

in the side of the center

same diameter through the bottom of each end can do not remove the pieces of tin from the openings, but bend them out for perches as shown. Cut the roof boards of the proper size to project over the ends and sides of the cans, nail them together, and then fasten them in place by driving nails through the boards can and a hole

of the ;

into the connecting blocks

between the cans.

Fasten the ark between blocks upon a board platform, then mount the platform upon a post support, and brace the supports with

brackets

to

make

it

Run

secure.

several perch sticks through the brackets, as shown.

A

Wall Bracket Bird Ark (Fig. 491).

same way

structed in the

the shape of sticks

is

shown

is

as the ark described above,

the brackets

clearly

This

and arrangement

in the illustration.

of

con-

and

perch

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

386

A

House and Swing made out of a wooden

and bracketed

to a wall as

Fig. 491.

shown

in Fig. 486, so that its

— a Wall Bracket Bird Ark.

handle hangs down and forms a swing, little

pail inverted

is

an attractive

house for the back yard.

Make

the vertical partition to divide the pail into two

compartments, and cut a circular piece the top.

board to

of

fit

Nail the roof board to the bottom of the

cut an opening into each compartment, and

fit

in

pail,

a small

wood beneath each opening for a platform. a short block of wood to the wall where the house

block of Nail is

to go, for the pail to rest on,

the proper height above

it

and

nail a

longer strip at

to nail the roof board to.

The Hanging House shown

in

Fig. 492

may

be

made

from a 25-pound or a 12^-pound white lead keg, which can be procured from any painter.

Cut the square roof

board wide enough to project 3 or 4 inches over the sides of the keg, and bore two holes in the proper positions for

BIRD-HOUSES the wire handles to run through.

have a perch fastened below

means shown

it.

387

Each opening should Suspend the house by

two cords as

of

in the illustration.

Birds seek the protection of

trees,

roof eaves,

and covered ways during storms, and

A

Shelter on the

shown

in

plan

Fig.

493 will make your yard

help to

a popular resort at such

You

times.

also will find

Fig. 492.

A

Hanging House.

that the birds will fly to

these perches to dry and

preen their feathers after

taking their morning baths.

Figure 494 shows one of the two uprights which support the perches and roof.

These may be cut

Fig. 493

out of strips 3 or 4 inches wide.

Miter the top ends

as shown,

— that

is,

cut off

Figs. 493 and 494.

— A Shelter.

the two corners at an angle of 45 degrees; holes

A

and

B

i

below the top and

inch in diameter,

B

A

— bore

about

3

the

inches

6 inches below that again, and then

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

388

slip a piece of

keep them

broom-handle through two of the holes

and

in line,

nail the

to

lower ends to opposite

sides of a clothes-post, or to a post set into the

ground

especially for the purpose.

The long perch

sticks are pieces of broom-handle,

and

the small ones are cabinet-maker's dowel sticks, broken flagstaffs,

diameter.

The

bored through latter

about | inch in small perch sticks are run through holes

or sticks

the

whittled

round,

broom-handle, after the

pieces of

have been slipped through

the

holes

in

the

uprights.

Cut the roof boards about i8 inches long, one 12 inches in width, and the other as

much

to allow for the lapping of edges.

less as is

necessary

Nail the face of the

wide piece to the edge of the narrow one, and whittle a short

wooden

spire

and

stick

it

into a hole bored in the

peak; then set the roof on the end of the uprights, shift it

until its projection at the

ends

is

the same,

and drive a

couple of nails through the roof boards into the uprights to hold

it

in position.

CHAPTER XXVI HOUSES FOR PETS \V-ilh-\\\^///

Although

-

--

\\\

boy does not have as good an opportunity to keep pets as his country cousin has, he the

city

manages

generally

own

to

a dog, unless he lives in an

apartment building, and often there

The

space in a wood-

which he can keep a few pets such white rats, fancy mice, and pigeons.

shed or a barn as rabbits,

is

in

of a

size

dog-house depends upon the

size of

the dog, so get your dog and see what he looks like before

you build

his kennel

breed, be sure to

;

but

make

if

you get a pup

of a large

the house plenty large

to allow for his growth, otherwise

you

will

soon have to

remodel the house or trade the dog for one that

A or

Dog-house

may be

built

omitted

size,

in

will

fit.

constructed out of packing-boxes

up of any boards you can

find about

Figure 495 shows a well-planned house of

the place.

medium

may be

enough

with

a

feature

building one

which

— provision

is

too frequently

for ventilation.

upon the ground, the floor usually damp, for there is little or no chance for it dry out after a rain, but by raising it a few inches the house

is

set directly

389

If is

to

as

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

390

shown

by mounting

in the illustration

and boring a number

of holes

Fig. 495.

it

upon a

through the base, the

base, floor

— A Dog-house.

(See working-drawings on page 89.)

never comes

in contact with the

circulation of

air,

will

which

ground, and a constant

will pass in

and out

of the holes,

keep the ground underneath dry.

Figure 92 on page 89 shows complete w^orkingdrawings for this dog-house, it having been taken for

an example

in explaining the proper

out a sheet of working details.

method

for laying

Of course you may

alter

the dimensions on the drawings to suit your needs. First

construct a frame

for the

base

of

the house,

then cut the floor boards of the proper size and nail

them

to

the

top

edge

of

the four walls in sections,

the

base.

Next construct

making the two

sides alike

HOUSES FOR PETS

The

front

is

covered with wire netting tacked to

a frame, and the frame also

will

length of the box

hinged

is

Make

form a door.

and

be notched and

place so that

;

2

inches

use strips about of

2

less

inches

the strips may-

together as shown, or they

fitted

it

the frame equal to the

The ends

inch thick.

i

in

width about

in

than the width of the box

wide and

393

may

be mitered, like the corners of picture-frames. Galvanized easiest for

Poultry-netting

most boys

front of the hutch.

the

is

probably

material

procure for covering the open

to

This

is

made

in

widths ranging from

inches to 72 inches, and can be had in i-inch, i^-

12

inch,

and 2-inch mesh

formed by the crossed

(the

meshes are the openings

plenty small enough for large size

is

The

wires).

mesh

large

rabbits, but the

best for breeding hutches, as the

can crawl through larger openings.

little

is

i-inch

fellows

Poultry-netting has

an hexagonal-shaped mesh. Twist Wire Cloth

is

another form of covering which

very good for the purpose.

Its

meshes are somewhat

similar to those of poultry netting, but are

and ^ inch wide. Wire Cloth has a square mesh door and window screens.

is

i

inch long

like the wire

The

used for

heavier grades

are

and are often used. Buy small nettmg staples with which to put on the

suitable for rabbit-hutches

wire netting or cloth.

After covering the frame with the netting or cloth,

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

394

hinge

it

to the top

2-inch steel butts.

box and

of the

directly

2

hutch with three 2-by-

edge

of the

Then

cut a strip of just the length

inches wide, and hinge

bottom

to the

it

below the frame with a pair of 2-by-2-inch

Screw a hook

into each

end

of the strip,

butts.

and fasten a

screw-eye or nail into each end of the box in the proper place for the

hook

to catch

on

Cut

to.

a couple

of

wooden buttons, bore a hole through the center of each large enough for a screw to slip through, and screw them to the

bottom hinge-strip about 12 inches from the ends frame closed (Fig.

for button catches to hold the wire

The

497).

hinge-strip

is

provided to keep the sawdust,

or other floor covering, from dropping out of the hutch

every time the front so

it

may

is

opened, and

it is

hinged

in place

be dropped as shown in Fig. 496 when clean-

ing out the hutch, to the old sawdust. nail a strip of

make

easier the

To hold open

wood

to

work

of

removing

the front while cleaning,

one end of the hutch, and fasten

a hook in the edge of the frame and a screw-eye in the

proper position in the stick for

it

to

hook

into, as

shown

in Fig. 496.

The hutch should set up on something high enough keep

it

at least

to

18 inches above the ground or floor, as

rabbits are very sensitive to dampness.

may be the hutch may

Brackets

fastened to a wall at the proper height, or

be placed upon an overturned packing-box. If

you intend

A

Breeding Hutch, in

you should have addition to this hutch which

to raise rabbits,

will

HOUSES FOR PETS

395

then be used to ke^p the male rabbit in after the baby rabbits have arrived.

The breeding hutch may

be con-

same size as that used for the hutch just described, but one end must be partitioned off for a nest, and a doorway 5 inches wide and 6 inches high must be cut through the partition to connect it with the main runway of the hutch. The nest must be kept structed out of a box of the

dark, so, instead of running the wire front along the length, tition.

it

must be stopped

off

upon a

full

line with the par-

In place of the wire, hinge a board over this por-

This provides a doorway by which the nest can be reached from the outside.

tion.

The Two-story Rabbit-hutch shown

Fig. 498.

in Fig.

— A Two-story Rabbit-hutch with

498

is

Yard Beneath.

made

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

ig6

portable so

it

may be taken

severe weather, and

end

is

to a place of shelter

provided with a handle at either

Then by

convenience in carrying.

for

during

stretching

wire netting or wire cloth around the supports, which

should be i8 inches or more high, a good playground provided

in

which your

"

bunnies

If

you can

inches

find a

wide,

Remove

them

in while

is

also a conven-

you clean out the hutch.

packing-box i8 inches deep,

and 4

is

can be allowed to run

This yard

about for a while each day. ient place to put

"

feet long, use

1

8 or 20

that for the hutch.

the boards from one side of the box (which will

be the front of the hutch), then rip up two of the boards removed,, into pieces 3 or 4 inches wide, and nail these to the front,

Fig. 499.

one

at the top of the

box {A, Fig. 499) and

— The Two-story Rabbit-hutch before the Roof has been put On.

the other at the bottom B.

Upon

the inside of the

back boards, mark out a 14-inch square feed and cleanout door 6 inches from one end, and a 6-by-io-inch door-

way

to the

compartments

3

inches from the other end.

Before cutting out these openings, nail a vertical batten

HOUSES FOR PETS

397

across the boards each side of the Hnes to hold the cut

ends together.

Cut enough boards second-story

of the

proper length to make the

batten them together upon the under

floor,

and cut a 5-by-io-inch stairway opening about 18 inches from one end, and in the center of the width of

side,

the floor

;

fasten this to the ends

midway between

and back

and bottom

the top

of the

{C, Fig. 499).

box

Then

prepare two partitions with an arched doorway about

5

inches wide and 6 inches high cut in each, and fasten

one

in

each story

ment end

1

inches away from the compart-

2

hutch (Fig. 499). gular pieces and nail one to the top the

of

the

of

Cut three of

trian-

each end piece

hutch for gable-ends, and one to the

top

of

partition D{-E, Fig. 499).

Cut a piece long for it

to

stairs,

of

board

5

inches wide and about 18 inches

and tack a number

of small cross-pieces to

keep the rabbits from slipping while running up

Hinge the

and down.

stairs to the

second floor with a

small hinge, or. a piece of leather, and leave the lower end loose so

it

may

be raised up out of the way every time

you clean out the

first story.

Board up the front

and

A

of the

nail a vertical strip of the

same width

(Fig. 498),

as the top rail

B (Fig.

499) to the opposite end Cover the remainder of the front with wire

and the bottom

of the hutch.

compartments

rail

netting or cloth, and tack of the wire to conceal the

wooden

strips

over the edges

rough ends (Fig. 498).

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

398

Make

the door to the compartments out of a single

board, and the feed door out of several pieces battened

Hinge the doors

together.

in place,

and provide them

any danger

of curious

ones opening the hutch while you are away.

Leather

with hasps and padlocks,

may

strips

if

there

is

be substituted for iron hinges, and wooden

may

buttons or hooks

be used in place of hasps,

if

the

hutch does not require a padlock.

For breeding purposes the stairway may be omitted; then the doe and her young can be kept by themselves in

one

story; but

it is

better to build separate one-story

breeding hutches.

The Rabbit Yard.

As you must know,

if

you have had

any experience with raising them, rabbits are great burrowers and will dig under the walls of any inclosure you can build for them, unless you provide a floor or carry the walls

down below

their reach.

keeping them within a small yard

The is

best

method

for

to extend the wire

netting with which you cover the framework about i8

inches below the surface of the ground.

After laying out

the lines of the framework of the yard, dig a trench on four sides to the required

depth, then set

all

up the four

corner posts, which should be long enough to stand at least

1

8 inches above the ground, and nail on the top

pieces, the baseboards,

and the side braces.

Then

stretch

framework and tack it in place; at the gate end cut the wire off at grade and fasten it to the baseboard. Construct the gate as shown, cover it on the the wire around the

HOUSES FOR PETS outside with netting, hinge

and provide If

the

it

it

to

of the corner posts,

with a hook.

ground where you build the yard

some sod and plant

it

raising

of

is

bare, dig

up

inside of the inclosure, so your

rabbits will have grass to play

The

one

399

white

rats

profitable business for boys,

time and an expenditure

in.

and fancy mice

and

of

it

is

requires very

a

little

only a dollar for a pair

to start with.

A

Cage for White Rats or fancy mice should be con-

structed out of a box about 14 inches deep, 14 inches

«g*=^

P'iG. 500.

wide, and 3 feet long. in Fig. 500.

cured

(this side of the

box

A

Remove one

(Fig. 501), then cut of the

— Cage for White Rats.

inside,

two

box

good form

of

side of the box will

cage

is

shown

you have pro-

be the front of the cage)

strips 3 inches

wide by the length

and fasten them midway between the

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

400

Hinged Top

f

^^

1

^/////y//////A\\\\\\\\\.\v\v

•5TAPLES

Fig. 502-

Fig. 501.

— View

of

Nest Boxes and Fig. 502.

Inside

of

White Rat Cage showing Arrangement

of

Stairs.

— Section through the Hinged Top.

top and bottom of the box, one along the back and the

other along the front.

Make

a Couple of Nest Boxes as

shown

in Fig. 503, as

wide, 5 inches wide (inside), and 4 divide them into two compart(inside)

long as the cage inches deep

is

;

ments each as shown, and cut a doorway in

i\

inches

diameter into each

compartment. board to

fit

Cut a

the top of

each box for a cover,

Fig. 504.

—^^-^n:^^^

'"^

Fig. 503.

-Nest Box

tlG. 504.

— Corner of Front

for

Frame and Attachment

and bend a piece 503.

White Rat Cage. Screen showing

of Wire.

of

wire into the shape of s ^ j^^^i^ (p^^^ o ^ ^/ fasten it in the proper ,

,.

HOUSES FOR PETS position to

hook on

to a short nail or

A

of strips

screw driven into

Fasten the nest boxes

the edge of the cover (Fig. 501).

on top

401

and B, and tack a

strip to

each end of

the cage just above the nest box cover to hold

back edge (Fig.

When

501).

can be slipped from under

Make

the cover

this strip

is

down

the

unhooked,

it

and removed.

the stairs out of a piece of board 3 inches wide,

tack cross-pieces to

it

about \\ inches apart, and fasten

it

A and to the floor, in the center of the cage. Strips A and B, together with the platforms in front of

to strip

the nest boxes, furnish

An Elevated "Race-track" which your rats or mice will make good use of, especially the frisky young ones who love to chase one another about as well as any children do.

Ordinary screen wire cloth

is

the most satisfactory

covering for the front of the cage, and the best method

on

of putting this

is

by making a wooden frame out

strips 3 inches wide, with the corners

of

mitered and nailed

together (Fig. 504), and tacking the wire to the inside face of this.

The frame can be

cage (Fig. 500).

This

is

nailed or screwed to the

a better

method than

that of

tackino[ the wire over the ed2:es of the box, as the wire

can be stretched tighter and looks neater, and, what

more important,

it

prevents the wire from bulging out

between the tacks and providing the to

gnaw away

the space

The

is

is

rats with a

chance

the edge of the box at those points until

big enough to escape through.

top of the cage should project about \ inch over

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

402

the ends and 2 inches over the front. strip across the top at the back,

First nail a hinge-

then batten together the

remaining boards, and hinge them to this

By

strip (Fig. 502).

driving a staple into the under side of the cover and

another into the screen frame, so the two will come gether side by side the cage

may be

Paint your

when

the top

is

to-

closed (Fig. 502),

padlocked.

Hutches and Cages on the outside, and

whitewash them on the Floor Covering.

inside.

Cover the

floors

with a thick layer of

sawdust, which you can get from your grocer; and clean

out the hutches and cages twice a week, and replace the old sawdust with fresh, so as to keep conditions sanitary.

Place hay in the breeding

compartments for the nests. Drinking

Receptacles.

Get a small earthenware dish for drinking

This

stand

will

upon the

floor

water. solidly

and not be

so likely to overturn as a cup, bowl, or other receptacle with

a small base.

Use a very shallow dish for the rat-cage. Fig. 505.

one shown box.

— A Pigeon-cote. in

Divide

Fig. 505 it

into

^

Pigeon-cote

may be made

two

stories,

like

the

out of a packing-

by fastening a

floor

HOUSES FOR PETS midway between

403

the bottom and top, and divide each

story into two compartments.

Nail the cover boards to

the box, fasten a triangular piece to the top edge of each

end

to

form the gables, and then cut and

boards in place. the

roof

fastening

may

The

be

nail the roof

space between the box cover and

divided

into

two compartments by

a triangular piece similar

to the cover boards, before nailing

to the gable-ends

on the

roof.

Cut openings through the gable-ends and the sides of the box, into the compartments, and fasten perches below them.

The

pigeon-cote

ported upon a post.

may

be bracketed to a wall or sup-

—

^

1

''

•

—

'

H—r—

r-"^-!

r

'

I-

I '

CHAPTER XXVII CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND

A.

HOME-MADE ARMOR \\\-

\V--ilh-\\\r///

The

castle club-house

shown

in Fig.

506

is

an idea

which the author has been holding in reserve for you for a good many years, for he originated it and carried it out on similar lines in his city back yard

The work

is

not

difficult,

when

a lad.

and the plan may be simplified

upon according to how much time you care spend upon it. A boy's interest in a thing often

or enlarged to

ceases the

work which

does not.

It

is

perfected to the point where impossible, therefore any piece

suggest alterations and additions

will

from time to time

is

it

improvement

further of

moment

is

more acceptable than one which

can be said for the castle club-house that

many schemes besides those described in this which may be developed by the builders, and

there are

chapter

which

will

MateriaL

probably suggest themselves.

As

the castle

may

be built in the corner

the back yard, the material for two walls

and the lumber required cost very tions.

little,

as

you

be saved,

for the rest of the building will

will see

The framework,

may

of

by looking

at the illustra-

with the exception of the corner 404

Fig. 506.

The Castle Club House.

CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR

405

built of boards, the corner turrets of barrels,

and

post,

is

the sides of box boards and scraps of

and

lumber can

Second-hand

widths.

sorts of lengths

all

generally

bought very cheap wherever a frame building

down

torn

is

be

being

or remodeled, and this will answer the pur-

pose as well as new material. Before starting work

on

you

just w4iat

it

is

best to do a

and then

will need,

little

sort out

boards you have succeeded in getting and see

have enough

if

;

you

no possibility

of

matter to cut

down

you

will

it

not,

the

you

will

if

and there

is

then be an easy

will

the dimensions of the castle so that

to rest the wall

Then

two pieces

Mark out

the dimensions upon the

lay a board along the

upon which

it

will

all of

be able to complete the job.

ground and

stand

you

procuring more,

The Framework.

507).

find that

figuring

end and

side for plates

framework {A and B, Fig.

take a 6-foot piece of 4-by-4-inch of

2-by-4-inch

upon the

stuff

spiked

or

stuff,

together,

and

plates at the corner for a corner post

V

Q

£

and brace it temporarily. and Cut uprights to fit between the fence rails, if the rails happen to be upon the inside face of the fence, and nail them to the fence directly in

line with

the

horizontal boards 7% G,

corner post.

H, and

and

Next, cut

the

them to the corner post C and the fence uprights and E, placing and G about 8 inches above the ground-plates, and and /even with the tops of C, D, and E. Boards^ and /,

nail

D

H

F

K

will

be necessary only in case boards

H and / extend

4o6

CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR above the top

My N,

Z,

Cut uprights

of the fence, as in Fig. 507.

O, P^ and

Q

7 feet 6 inches

407

and

long,

nail

them to plates A and B, and to horizontal pieces F, G, H, and /, 1 1 inches in from the corners formed by boards H, /, /, and K, Cut uprights R and 6' 7 feet long, and fasten them in the center of the front wall 2 feet apart and

for the entrance jambs, of the

end wall

for

set upright

T

in the center

an intermediate support.

marked U in Fig. 507, are 4-inch boards placed on edge, and are fitted between the fence and horizontal piece G, If there isn't a rail on the inThe Floor

Joists,

side face of the fence at the proper height to rest the

ends of the

joists on, nail a horizontal piece to the fence

for the purpose.

Before putting on the wall siding, get three barrels for

The Corner

Turrets.

from these, and

nail

Be sure that no hoops are missing

each stave to each hoop to keep the

barrels from falling apart. tin

about 3 by

5

inches in

Cut a number size,

of pieces of

and tack them

to the in-

side edge of the tops of the barrels, about 3 inches apart (Fig. 509), to

form the battlements; then

set the barrels

on boards H, /, /, and K, between uprights Z, M, N, Py and Q, and nail them to these uprights (Fig. 507).

(9,

Board up the Walls regardless of the openings, with the exception of the entrance, around which the boards

may

be

fitted,

boards so that each end right,

Cut the

and cut the openings afterwards. will strike the center of

and use up the short pieces wherever

it is

an up-

possible

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

4o8 to

do

so, in

order to save the long pieces for places

When

quiring them.

re-

you are ready

To cut the Openings, mark them out upon the walls and,

about

I"

inch outside of the lines, nail a vertical strip

across the boards which are to be cut to hold

gether (Fig. 511).

main

The upper row

and those

walls,

of

them

to-

openings on the

in the turrets, are painted

on the

wood.

The Roof. ing,

it

will

To

support the upper end of the roof board-

be necessary to

nail the horizontal piece

Fto

Fig. 508. Fig. 508.

Fig. 509.

uprights

M, R,

at the sides

— How the Roof should be put On.

— Construction of the Turret Battlements.

S,

you

and will

A^,

even with the tops

have

of

R

and S]

to fasten the diagonal pieces

IV znd X\ and around the barrels extra blocking will be Figure 508 shows how the roof boarding required. should be

laid.

First place

one layer

of

boards about

i

CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR

409

inch apart, as shown, then cover the spaces between with

The

another layer.

best

way

to

ings around the barrels and walls

and tack a

strip of

to the walls

and

it

make is

water-tight join-

to get

some

tar

up on But if you

to the roof along the walls, lap

barrels,

and daub

cannot get the roofing-paper and

it

with

paper

tar.

it

the cracks

tar, stuff all

with newspaper, using a pointed stick with which to push the paper lap

in,

and then tack pieces

them up on

Roof leaks a

If the

and

to the walls

little after

of tin over

them and

barrels.

you have finished

it,

do

not worry; the castle will dry out quickly after a storm,

inasmuch

as the floor

is

beneath for the

of space

high

is

made by

board 6 inches square to the

shown

The

in Fig. 508.

ground with plenty

air to circulate.

This

The Battlement.

off the

walls,

nailing pieces of

above the

roof,

turret battlements have

as

been

described.

The

space beneath the floor

is

plenty large for

Secret Treasure Vaults, without which, of course, the castle

would not be complete.

the floor

joists,

vaults in

which

as

shown

in

Boxes fastened between Fig. 507, will

to store the castle's " gold,"

make good

and the

boards over these should be battened together

floor

in sections

may

be removed to gain access to the vaults. The Drawbridge should be i inch larger all around than

so they

the entrance, and

its

boards should run horizontally and

be fastened together with battens (Fig. 511). Cut a piece of broom-handle 8 inches longer than the width of the

1

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS entrance {A, Fig. 510), and nail

it

to the lower

edge

the drawbridge, then

of

make

a socket for each end of the

broom-handle to

by nailing two blocks {B and C,

Fig. 510.

— Sockets for the Drawbridge.

Fig.

510) to the wall

each side

of the entrance,

and nailing another block (D) over these broom-handle

to hold the

in place.

To counterbalance pulleys,

set in,

tlie

Drawbridge, get two clothes-line

four

screw-eyes, and about 18 feet of clothesline.

Bore

hole

through

a

each batten of the drawbridge

near

end

the

{A, Fig. 511),

cut two slots in the castle wall

above the entrance (B, Fig. 511), screw the * '

1

pulleys ^ -^

Fig. 511.

.

into

the lower edge

Fig.

„ 511. — How

Fig.

5 12.

^

,^,.,.^ Drawbridge

the

is

u,

j

Counterbalaricea.

— Details of Counterbalance.

CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR of the horizontal board

Fat

C,

411

and two screw-eyes into

the ceiling at E.

For the counterbalance take two flour sacks, potato sacks, or two pieces of carpet sewed together in the form of bags; fill them full of sand or gravel, and tack the top of each around a block of wood, in one end of which a screweye has been screwed {D, Fig. 512). Cut the clothes-line in halves tie a knot on one endof the pieces; pull them ;

A

through holes

as far as

the knotted ends will per-

mit

run them around the

;

ends

of

the

draw^bridge,

up through

slots

pulleys

through

C,

B, over the

screw-eyes Z^ on the counterbalances, and through screw-

eyes

E

pull

up the drawbridge

far as

Then

(Fig. 511).

will go, low^er the

it

counterbalances ropes until they

on

tie

eyes

E\

the

come within

about 6 inches of the

and

as

floor,

the ropes to screwFiG. 513.

cut off the ends of

the rope.

A

— Windlass

for

raising the

Drawbridge.

Windlass

stituted

Fig. 513.

for

may be the

sub-

counter-

(You may make and use one of these instead of the counterbalances shown in Fig. 511.) Fig. 514.

— Shaft for Stovepipe Drum.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

412

balances,

you wish

if

to

make

Figure

one.

simple scheme, requiring a section of

shows a stovepipe, a broom3

1

Make

handle, a grocery box, and a few boards. for the stovepipe out of the

5

broom-handle

a shaft

cut two disks

;

equal to the inside diameter of the stovepipe, bore a hole

through the center handle to

slip

shaft (Fig.

of

each large enough for the broom-

through, and fasten these disks to the Slip the shaft

514).

through the section

and tack the metal to the wooden disks. Mount the completed drum on two board uprights, and nail the lower ends of the uprights to the ends of the Construct a crank for each end of the shaft, fasten box.

of

stovepipe,

them

in place as

shown, and provide a loose pin

to

run

through a hole bored through each crank and each upright, as a

means

for locking the windlass

bored through each upright

will

make

the windlass at any point desired.

it

;

several holes

possible to lock

Tie the ends of the

ropes leading in from the drawbridge to the

them

windlass, and fasten

drum

of the

to the metal so they will not

slip.

As

noted in the

illustration, the

back

of the

should be nailed to the rear wall of the castle

;

box base also con-

nect the upper portions of the uprights to the walls with cross-pieces, to brace them.

A

Moat.

for a moat,

Dig

a trench around the outside of the base

and your

Home-made Armor.

armor with which

castle will be completed.

Of course you

to dress

up

will

want some

like a real knight, so

I

Fig. 515.

A Boy Kxight with

His IIo^ie-Made Armor.

CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR have invented for you a home-made helmet, a

shield,

413

and

a sword, which, with the addition of a pair of gauntlets

and a sweater

(this resembles,

coats of chain mail), will

somewhat, the texture

make

of

a fairly complete outfit.

Figure 515 shows a boy knight equipped with made armor.

this

home-

The Helmet.

Get an old worn-out derby hat (Fig. 516); remove the brim, sweat-band, and ribbon, make slashes i

KlG. 516.

Fig. 524

Fig.

Fig.

518.

519.

Fig. 520.

Figs. 516 to 524.

Fig. 521.

Fig. 523.

— Details for making the Helmet.

inch in length in the edge of the

felt

from the center of

each side around to the front, and bend up the pieces be-

tween the slashes (Fig. 517); cut two vizors out

of card-

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

414

board (Fig. 518), and glue one of these to the tops of the turned-up felt flaps and one to the under sides (Figs. 517

For the cape or neck portion of the helmet, cut a piece of cardboard to the shape shown in the diagram, and slash the lower edge (Fig. 520); bend this piece of cardboard as in Fig. 521, and bend out the pieces and 519).

slashes, then

between the

coat about 2

top of the cardboard with glue, place

hat and press (Fig. 523).

it

against the

felt

it

inches of the inside of the

until the glue

has set

Prepare the two crown ridge-pieces (Fig,

522) out of cardboard, glue the pieces together back to back, and glue the flaps to the crown of the hat (Fig. 523).

Cover the helmet with tin-foil this can be obtained from a florist, or from the wrappings of chocolate, etc. Glue the tin-foil to the felt and cardboard, and do not ;

try to

smooth out the wrinkles too

will give the effect of rich

particularly, for these

carvings such as you will see

on ancient helmets. Figure 524 shows our helmet. The Shield. Make a bow out of a narrow stick, bending it so there will be a distance of 2 inches between the center of the stick and

bowstring (Fig. 525), then cut the shield out of a piece of heavy cardboard

to the

dimensions given

bow.

Cut two blocks

of

the

in Fig.

526 and tack

wood 4 inches

long,

it

to the

and fasten

a piece of twisted wire to the ends of each with screws (Fig. 527) for the

arm and hand

straps;

wrap the wire

with cord (Fig. 528), and tack the shield to these blocks. Remove the bowstring and cut off the ends of the bow

CASTLE CLUB-HOUSE AND HOME-MADE ARMOR even with the cardboard; tin-foil

then

415

cover the shield with

or silver paper.

The Sword.

Cut

i^ inches wide, as

about 3 feet long, with a blade

this

shown

inch hole through the

in

stick, 6

whittle the handle round

Fig. 529.

First bore a J-

inches from one end, then

and bevel

blade until the edges are sharp.

off the sides of the

Drive a piece of iron

rod of the size marked through the hole in the handle, for the hilt of the sword; then cover the

hilt,

handle, and

the entire blade with tin-foil or silver paper.

Fig. 528. Fig. 526.

Figs. 525 to 528.

— Details of Shield.

Fig. 529.

Fig. 529.

— Sword.

T' J j

I

I

I

I

'

I

CHAPTER XXVIII A BOYS' BAND OF HOMEMADE INSTRUMENTS \\\-

\V--llh-\\\r-//f

The neighborhood

parade would be headed by a boys'

band, no doubt, were

it

not for the lack of instruments.

This need suggested to the author the idea of devising

home-made cornet, trombone, bass horn, fife, and bass drum shown in the illustrations upon the following pages. They are imitation instruments, to be sure, but they will make plenty of noise, and music, too, if they -are properly the

The

handled.

notes are produced on the horns by the

and not by the manipulation of keys, so it will be easy for any boy who can carry tunes by ear to play them without having to do very much pracvariation of the voice,

ticing.

If

you are not familiar with the tones

struments, you can soon

become so by

of the in-

listening to the

playing of a real band.

The

band equipment can be completed in a days, if each boy makes his own instrument, and

entire

couple of

the material should cost but very

little,

as

much of it can be

found about the house most likely something that you ;

will

need can be supplied by one of the other boys, in exchange for

which you can give him something that he wants. 416

Fig. 531.

Fig. 532. Figs. 530-532.

The Tromboxe.

The Bass Horn. Fig. 530. The Cornet. Home-Made Instruments for a Boys' Band.

A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS The Cornet (Fig.

Procure a quart-size

530).

for the bell of the cornet |-

and several

feet of

417

tin funnel

round stick

inch in diameter for tubing; for this some old flagstaffs

can be used, or cabinet-maker's |-inch dowel sticks can be purchased for a few cents a

can be formed of rubber tubing as tration (Fig. 533), or

is

shown

by bending a piece

h— 3 -H

In the illus-

of tree

branch

k-3-—

A

Ti"

h

Fig. 533.

to

The curved tubing

stick.

— Details of Cornet.

the proper shape (Fig.

538).

The

lengths

of

the

marked on the diagram, and the pieces the order in which they should be assem-

straight tubing are

are lettered in bled.

If

rubber tubing

is

used for the ends, run several

pieces of heavy wire through (see dotted lines

C and

it

to give

77, Fig. 533).

it

proper stiffness

Bore holes

in the

ends of the wooden tubing where Indicated, and whittle

them and the rubber tubing. Fasten the pegs place with glue, and fasten the other pieces with brads.

pegs in

to

fit

Drive rug tacks (Fig. 533) into the ends of the key tubes for keys. A " kazoo " is necessary for a mouthpiece.

This

little

instrument,

shown

In the illustration, will cost

a dime, and can be purchased from any music dealer;

if

you

in

he does not carry

it

In stock,

he can procure

It

for

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

4i8

Fasten the kazoo in place by means

a few days' time. of a

—

wooden peg will

it

;

then

—

as

you have stopped up

its

end

be necessary to puncture three holes in the top

as shown.

When

the tubing, keys,

bell,

and mouthpiece have

been put together, procure some cigar boxes,

buy some from a

tin-foil

florist,

or get several 5-cent

sheets of silver paper at a stationery store. foil

from empty

Cut the

tin-

or silver paper into short pieces, and paste these

around the tubing;

after sticking

piece with a clean rag to remove

work pend

carefully, as the

largely

all

rub each

wrinkles.

appearance of the cornet

Do

the

will de-

upon the neatness with which you cover

Fig. 534.

The Trombone funnel for

in place,

it

its

— Details of the Trombone.

(Fig.

bell

it.

531)

and

a

requires

kazoo

for

a two-quart a

tin

mouthpiece.

Figure 534 shows the details for the main portion of the trombone. The large tubing is made of a broom-handle, the smaller tubing of ^-inch sticks, and the curved ends as described for the Cornet.

A BOYS' BAND OF HOxME-MADE INSTRUMENTS

The

419

pieces are lettered in the order in which they

should be put together, and their lengths are marked.

Bore

all

shown or indicated by dotted

the holes

the proper size for the smaller tubing to

and

b in

fit

lines, of

Cut

into.

B

one piece, and do not separate them until after

you have bored a hole in the end 2 inches deep, which will run entirely through b and \ inch into the end of B.

The

idea

is

to hinge

eye in the end of

G

between

and B.

b

The

screw-

G

should be \ inch in diameter, inside. with glue, run it through b, Cover the end of tube

H

through the screw-eye in G, and into the hole

in

Wrap

in the

the end of the kazoo with paper, and glue

hole bored in the end of

shown, to

let

/.

Make

a gimlet hole in

536 the

first

step

Fig. 539.

strips

in

making

it.

Cut

slide,

a

and

number

Fig. 535.

Figs. 535 to 539.

of

/ as

out the tone from the kazoo.

Figure 535 shows the completed trombone Fig.

it

B.

of

— Details of Trombone Slide.

newspaper about

3

inches wide and

a \-

inch stick about 30 inches long; wrap the stick with a

dry strip of paper, then on top of this wrap in paste,

and gradually build up the tubing

strips

until

soaked it

is

as

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

420

thick as the broom-handle tubing (Fig. 537).

Let the

tubing dry thoroughly, then pull out the stick and prepare

The curved end O

another tube similarly.

may

be

made

(Fig. 535)

out of a tree branch (Fig. 538) or out of

M

P

rubber tubing (Fig. 533). Fasten between and A'with brads (Fig. 535). Screw a screw-eye i inch in

diameter (inside) into each end of

them over the paper tubing (Fig.

Q

(Fig. 539),

and

slip

When all the pieces

535).

have been put together properly, cover the tubing with silver paper.

The Bass Horn (Fig. 532) is made out of a brass phonograph horn

and a piece If

of

an old garden-hose.

you haven't an old phonograph

from which you can take the horn,

you can probably pick up a horn

at

a second-hand store for half a dollar.

The

length of this horn will deter-

mine the length of the hose tubing, also that of A and B, but you can follow Fig. 540 in working out the Fig. 540.

— Detail

of Bass

Horn.

proportions of the instrument.

horn shown in the

28 inches long, and the garden-hose

The

is

The

illustration

is

7 feet 6 inches long.

shows how the hose should be fastened at C, D, E, F, G, H, and /, and that rug tacks are driven into the ends of tubes y, A", and L. The full tone of the horn can be detail

produced by the

voice, as the

hose tubing

is

unobstructed.

A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS

As you

probably know, whistling upon the edge of a

card makes a pretty

A

Fife

we

;

shown in bend up one it

will

fair imitation of

use this same principle in making our

Cut a triangular piece

Fig. 541.

fife

tack

corner,

through

^

this corner

Fig. 541.

from one end.

inches

File

blunt and smooth.

of tin

0==D Fig. 543.

Drum

— The

of tin,

and

to a stick 13 inches long, 2

421

The

Fife.

the edge of the piece

Bore six "finger holes" in

the stick as shown, and cover tin-foil

it

with

or silver paper.

Figure 542 shows

Stick.

The Bass Drum, and Fig. 544 the detail of its framework. Procure eight barrel

hoops

for the

framework

;

also

Soak four of the hoops in water, then bend them out and fasten them together so as to make a small drum.

two hoops 30 or 34 inches Place the of C, Fig. 542.

— The

Bass

drum

in the exact

one hoop, and fasten

and

D around

in diameter.

it

strips

(Fig. 544).

center

A, B, Brace

the other hoop with strip E, then con-

Drum.

nect the two hoops with 12-inch strips

drum

placed horizontally as shown.

Fasten the small

in place with cords (Fig. 544).

Cover the entire frame-

work with wrapping-paper, then cut away the portion covering the head of the small drum (Fig. 542). Nail

;

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

423

the four remaining barrel hoops around the bass

drum

for rims.

Use small

staples for the brace-coj^d

hooks (Fig. 545)

cut the braces out of canvas by the pattern of Fig. 546,

Fig. 549-

Fig. 547. Figs. 545 and 546. for

Fig. 544.

— Detail of Bass Drum.

and sew edge

A

for the brace cord,

drum, as shown

Figs. 547 to 549.

and lace

in

— Details of Cymbals.

Get heavy wrapping cord

edge B.

to

— Details of Braces

Bass Drum.

it

back and forth around the

Fig. 542.

Screw a screw-eye intp

each rim from which to attach a rope or tape

slijig (Fig.

542).

For Cymbals procure two pot covers; mount one on a spool upon the

drum framework

(Fig. 547),

and fasten a

knob

(Fig. 548) to the top of the other for a handle (Fig.

549).

Pot-cover knobs such as that shown can be bought

at

any hardware store

Saw

off

handle for

a

at 5 cents apiece.

14-inch piece from the end of a broom-

A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS The Drum-stick; cut a hole it

run through, and drive a

to

in

423

an old tennis-ball for

nail

through the

ball into

the end of the stick (Fig. 543).

Snare Drums can be easily

made by

heavy cloth over cheese boxes, but to tone

stretching canvas or

drums

real

up the band and should be used

if

will

help

you can get

them.

The Drum Major

(Fig.

major the boy who can

Choose

550).

for

your drum-

twirl a stick the best.

make

If

an old fur muff can be had,

A

Splendid "Bearskin" Cap; sew a piece of elastic to

one end

l-iG.

of

it

550. — The

Drum

Major.

to

it

go around the chin

will

(Fig. 551).

In case

Fig. 552.

Fig. 553.

Figs. 551 to 557.

Fig. 555.

— Details of Drum Major's Outfit.

you cannot get a muff, make a cardboard cylinder 10 inches in diameter and 12 inches high, and fasten a

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

424

circular piece of cardboard to the top (Fig. 552);

cover

it

then

with cotton (Fig. 553).

Cut a piece

of

broom-handle 3

The Drum Major's

Staff,

feet long for

paint

it

black,

and screw

to

from a curtain-pole (Fig. 554); then wrap the joint between the ball and piece of broomthe head a brass ball

handle with cord until

it is

filled out, as

and cover the cord with a band

shows

Any

Uniforms.

has

of tin-foil.

this

Figure 556

he signals the band

toy whistle will do.

The drum major may wear

a pair, but these are not necessary.

have a red or blue sash braid stripes pinned his cuffs.

in Fig. 555,

r

The Major's Whistle; with to play.

shown

boots

He

tied across his breast,

down

his trousers legs

Small safety-pins

may

if

he

should

and red

and around

be sewed to the stripes

Figure 557 shows the Cut a cardboard form similar

so they can be attached quickly.

way to make the epaulets. to A, pad it on top with

cotton,

and cover

cloth; then cut fringe out of yellow cloth

it

with red

B

and sew

A BOYS' BAND OF HOME-MADE INSTRUMENTS it

side oi

Sew

edge C.

to the

425

a small safety-pin to the under

A,

Figures 530, 531, and 532 will suggest the uniforms for the other band musicians a soldier cap, a pair of

—

made

epaulets

drum

major's (see Fig. 557), and red braid stripes for the cuffs and trousers legs.

Now,

similar to the

boys, get to

work and organize your band, and

made and you have given a public performance, write and tell me how you succeeded. When your town has a parade on some after the

special

instruments have been

occasion, probably you can get permission

to

head the procession, and when you boys have a vaudeville,

a circus, or any kind of a

the band will

you belong Band.

fill

show or entertainment,

the requirements of an orchestra.

to the "

Boy

Scouts," organize a

If

Boy Scout

;

INDEX Annual Admission

tickets, 26g.

form and

Aerial, a wireless telegraph, 227;

dimensions

227; construction of, 228; masts for, 230; 229;

of,

insulation of,

Aerogram blanks,

room

an

in

(see

Room

in

an

Attic).

223.

;

;

;

;

a simple 303 monoplane model, 304 a French monoplane model, 309; an Antoinette monoplane model, 314; a more elaborate monoplane model, 316; center-poles, 305, 309, 314, 320; propellers, 306, 310, 315, 321; motors, 307 winding up the motor, bird

rocker, 164.

Attic, a boy's

Aeroplanes, model, 297 ; length of flights, 298, 324; junior aero clubs, 300; meets, 300 glider race, 306 types of machines used, 302 support of models, 302 a

cardboard

;

Arm

grounding of, 230. Aero clubs, junior, 300.

rings, 44.

Antennae (same as Aerial). Antoinette monoplane model, 314. Ark, a bird, 385 a wall bracket bird, 385. Armor, home-made, 412; a helmet, 413; a shield, 414; a sword, 415.

glider,

;

;

Auger-bits, 21.

Auto-airship, a boy's (see Airship). Auto deli very- wagon, a toy, 180.

Automatic drill, 23. Automobile moving picture, an, 273. Auto wagon, 374 steering-gears for, 374, 375; seats for, 376; trip gong for, 376. ;

Awls, brad-, 22; scratch, 22. Axles, wagon, 368.

B

;

warping 308; planes, 306, 311, 315, 323 the planes, 313, 318 (Fig. 399); adjusting the planes, 306, 313, 324; bracing cords, 313, 324; binding material, 320; ;

tails,

316, skids,

rudders, 316, 325 running-gears, 311, 321;

316, 325

324; 311;

;

fins,

finish,

324;

;

Back-saw, 18. Bag, a sleeping-, 342. Balloon for auto-airship, framework envelope of, 331 stays, 331.

of home-made instruments, a boys', 416; a cornet, 417; a trombone, 418; a bass horn, 420; a fife, 421; a bass drum, 421; cymbals, 422; a drum-stick, snare drums, 423; the drum 423; major's "bearskin" cap, 423; his staff,

ments, 326.

327; framework of 330; rib-bands, 331; balloon envelope, 331; stays, 331; car, propeller, 333 starting platform, 332 334; a push-off platform, 335; rope cable, 335 attachment of car, 335 windlass for pulling airship back to platform, 335 an auto-airship club, 336. Airships," clockwork "flying, 203. ribs,

;

;

Amateur wireless telegraph stations, 223, Ammunition for snow battleship, 285. Ampere, 252. Animals for merry-go-round, cardboard, 197.

424

;

;

;

his

whistle,

424

;

uniforms, 424.

Barrel table, 166. Basket, a waste, 164.

Bass drum, a home-made, 421. Bass horn, a home-made, 420. Battens, 69. Batteries, dry, 247

;

connections

of,

253193,

329;

Band

field for experi-

Airship, a boy's auto-,

balloon, 329;

of,

;

Battery, a storage, 246. Battle, rules for a snow naval, 285. Battlement, a castle club-house, 409.

427

247 and

;

INDEX

428

snow (see Snow Battleship). Beaded boards, 49. Bearings, model aeroplane shaft, 307, 309, 322. "Bearskin" cap, a drum major's, 423. Bench, a cabinet-made, 3 a home-made, 3 Battleship, a

;

;

a chair saw-, 38 a solid work, 4 a work, with tool-drawers, 8; a bedroom or living-room, 117; a camp table, 350; a box, 350. Bench-hook, 40. Bench-screw, an iron, 7. Bench-stop, an adjustable, 12. Bench-stops, home-made, 11. ;

Bench-vise,

;

6.

Boy's room in an

attic,

a (see

Room

an

in

Attic).

Brace, ratchet-, 21. Bracket-saw, 18.

Brad-awls, 22. Brass craft, 206 tools and materials for, 206 enlarging designs by squares, 207 pierc;

;

;

208

ing,

polishing,

;

209

a home-made

;

lacquer, 209; tea-pot stand, 209; calen-

dar board, 211; pen tray, 211; lamp212; candle-shade, 214; fringe shade holders, 215; candlefor, 214; stick, 215; "Paul Revere" lantern, 216. Brushes, 77. shade,

Butt-joint, 60.

Bevel, 26, 71.

Biplane type of model aeroplane, faults of the, 302.

Bird glider, a cardboard, 303. Bird-houses, 379; material for, 379; a box another box bird-house, bird-house, 380 a tin-can bird a bird tower, 382 381 a bird a bird castle, 383 tower, 382 ;

;

;

;

;

a wall bracket bird ark, 385 a house and swing, 386 a hanging-house, 386; a shelter, 387. wood drill, 22 counterBit, expansive-, 21 ark, 385

;

;

;

;

sink, 22;

;

Cabinet, a tool, 33

;

a music, 159.

Cabinet-made work benches,

Cabin Cable

latch,

an old-fashioned, 157.

for auto-airship, 335.

Cage, a white rat, 399. Calendar board, 211. Call, to receive a " wireless," 249

Calumet Aero Club, The, 300.

Blanks, aerogram, 223. Blocks, single, 329. Blueprints, working-drawing, 97. Blunderbuss for "WiUie Shute," 268.

Camp

list,

349 350

a,

;

;

box cupboards, 350.

tent, tent,

;

"A" and

cost of

make an "A"

to

338; ridge-pole and uprights for a 340 tent stakes, 340 pitching the tent, 340; a tent ground-cloth, 341; a

undressed, 48;

dressed, 48;

a sharpie, 356. Boats, a punt, 351 Boats," "torpedo, 286. Bob-sled, 290; runners, 291; seats,

;

;

;

matched, 49; beaded and matched-and-beaded, 49; rabbeted, 65. (See Lumber.)

49;

make

furniture, 349 a chair, 349 a table, a box bench, a table bench, 350

Camping equipment, 337; wall tents, 337; how

foot, def. of, 51. of,

to

a "wireless," 223.

Call

Bits, auger-, 21.

Boards, stock sizes

;

250.

screw-driver, 23.

Bit-brace, 21.

Board

3.

Cabinet-maker's clamps, 29.

;

;

spruce or pine twig mattress, 341 ^ a other equipment, 342 sleeping-bag, 342 an electric flash lamp, 343 packing, 343 ;

;

;

;

Bolts, 74.

a safety match-box, 344; a duflSe box, learning to food supplies, 345 344 a backan open fire, 345 cook, 345 woodsman's fireplace, 346; pothooks, a a sheet-iron camp stove, 347 347

Bonehead, 260.

Dutch oven, 348

check-chains,

293 293

;

;

293

;

steering

steering lines,

293 seat cushion, 293

Book-racks, 107 Book-shelf, 163.

;

292;

foot-bar,

handle-bars,

;

painting,

294.

;

;

;

;

;

extension, 108.

Bottle-rack, 141.

Box and

;

;

barrel furniture, 160 (see Furniture). Boxing-match, moving picture of a, 277. Boy riders for merry-go-round, 195.

a

fireless cooker,

348 building a fire, 348; a camp chair, 349; a camp table, 349; a table bench, 350; a box bench, 350; box cupboards, 350. ;

Camp

stove, a sheet-iron, 347. Candle-shade, 214; holder for Candle-stick, a brass, 215.

a,

215.

;;

;;

INDEX Can

and screws,

429

Clockwork

Cap, a drum major's "bearskin," 423. Captain of snow battleship, duties of, 285.

toys, 189 (see Toys). Clothes closet for an attic room, trousers hangers for, 155.

Car

Clown and

receptacles for nails

35.

for auto-airship, 332.

;

Carriage-bolts, 74. Cars for Ferris wheel, 201;

300

for "flying air-

;

auto-airship, 336.

Coach-whip pennant,

ships," 205. Castle, a bird, 383.

seat, ;

Code

card, a "wireless," 223. Codes, Morse and Continental, 250

;

;

;

;

for, 287; shoes, 288; handles, 289; foot-bar, 290;

289;

painting, 290.

material, 404 a, 404 framework, 405 floor joists, 407 corner walls, 407 openings, 408 turrets, 407 secret battlement, roof, 408 409 drawbridge, 409 treasure vaults, 409 moat, windlass for drawbridge, 411; ;

way

;

Coil, a

;

a good

home-made

"wireless " tuning-, 237;

Cold-chisel, 25.

known

Commercial

as, 49.

Cells (see Batteries).

Chain fringe

Common-joint, 60. Common-splice, 60. Compasses, 92. Compass-saw, 18.

for brass craft, 214.

Roman, 126; a Mission, 128; an

Chair, a

163; a doll's round-seated, 182; doll's square-seated, 183 a camp,

office,

;

Condenser, a home-made "wireless," 241. Contests, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325. Continental telegraph code, 251.

Contrivances for the house, handy, 135 a fireless cooker, 136; pot-cover rack,

349-

Chair saw-bench, 38. Chamfer, 71.

flat-iron rest, 143; 141; bottle-rack, 141 sleeve-board, 145; rack, 144; knife-box, 146; scrub-pail platform, 146; ;

Chamfer bevel, 71. Chamfer groove, 71.

flat-iron

Check-chain, bob-sled, 293. Checks in lumber, 47. Chest, a tool-, 30; a pirate, 159. Chest- weight, 170. Chicago Wireless Club, The, 222. Chiffonier, a box, 167. Chinning-bar, 175. framing or mortising, Chisels, firmer, 24

towel-roller,

;

cold-, 25.

Cigar boxes, preparation finish,

178;

of,

cutting,

179.

Cigar-box toys and

gifts,

178 (see Toys; also

147

;

ice-pick

and

Clamps, cabinet-maker's,

29;

home-made,

Cooker, a fireless, 136, 348. Coping-saw, 18. Cornet, a home-made, 417. Cote, a pigeon-, 402. Counterbalance, castle drawbridge, 410, Countersink-bit, 22.

Countersinking, 73. Cradle, a doll's, 183. Crate opener, 17. Cross-cut saw, 18.

Cupboards, camp, 350.

Cup- shakes,

29.

Cleating boards, 69. Cleats, 69; porcelain, 229. Clock-shelf, 105; a corner, 184. 190, 198

;

to operate, 197

to increase speed of, 205.

;

ice-chisel

rack, 148.

Crosstree, 284.

Furniture).

Clockwork motors,

amateur "wireless,"

stations,

223.

Center-poles, model aeroplane, 305, 309, 314, 320. Center-table, a doll's, 182.

179;

;

to learn the, 251.

an induction- or spark-, 245.

412. Ceiling, def. of boards

24;

284.

runners

Coaster, 287;

Cart, a toy, 180.

Castle club-house,

pictures, 272.

Club-house, a castle (see Castle). Clubs, workshop, 103, 105 wireless telegraph, 222; vaudeville, 256; junior aero,

Carpenter's horse, 36. Carpenter's steel square, 26.

a

moving

ball

155

47.

Current strength, electrical, 252. Cutting cigar-box wood, 179. Cutting large holes, 142. Cutting pliers, 28. Cymbals, home-made, 422.

INDEX

430

Dummy

D Dado-plane, 20.

Deck

of

snow

assistant to professor with magical

mortar, 263. Dutch oven, 348.

battleship, 283.

E

Delivery- wagon, a toy auto, 180.

Desk, a Mission writing-, 129; a table, 133; a box writing-, 160. Detail drawing, 86. Detectors, home-made "wireless," 233; a a razor blade micromicrophone, 233 ;

a silicon, 236. phone, 235 Dickson, Mr. Royal C, 223. ;

Dimension

stufif,

sizes of

Electrical measurements, 252.

Electric fixture, 134. Electric lamp, 130.

Electromagnetic waves, 226.

Elementary manual

training, 42.

Elevations, def. of

lumber known

and as,

49.

Dining-table, a doll's, 182. Dividers, wing-, 27.

left,

front,

rear,

side,

Enlarging by squares, 207, 287. Estimating cost of material, 51. Exercising machine (see Chest-weight). Expansive-bit, 21.

Dog-house, 389. a round-seated chair, Doll furniture, 182 182 a round center-table, 182 a diningtable, 182; a square-seated chair, 183; a cradle, 183. Door, a paneled, 124. Doors for partitions of attic room, 156; transom for, 157; cabin-latch for, 157. Dot and dash, 226 and 247. Dovetail half -lap joint, 68. DovetaiUng, 67. ;

Express-wagon, a toy, 180. Extension book-rack, 108.

;

;

Falsetto, 263.

Ferris wheel, a clockwork, 198.

home-made, 421.

Fife, a

Fighting-tops, 283. Files, handiest forms

of, 25.

Filler,

a paste, 82.

Doweling, 68.

Filling

woodwork,

Dowel-joint, 68.

Finishing woodwork, 75. Fins, model aeroplane, 316, 325. Fire, an open camp, 345 to build

Dovetail-joint, 66.

Dowels, 68. Drafting table, 91, 133. Drawbridge, castle, 409.

Firmer

Fished-splice, 60.

outfit, 90.

Drawings, working-, 86; perspective, 88. Draw-knife, 25. Dressed stuff, 48. Drill, an automatic, 23. Drill bit for wood, 22. Drop-cord, how to wire up a, 132. Drum, a home-made bass, 421 a home-made ;

snare, 423.

major, 423; a "bearskin" cap, 423; a staff, 424; a whistle, 424. Drum-stick, a bass-drum, 423. batteries (see Batteries).

;

U.

S.

a,

348.

Army, 140

;

a

Fireplace, the backwoodsman's, 346.

for tools, 10.

Drawing

Dry

136

camp, 348.

Drawing-board, 91.

Drum

82.

;

Fireless cooker,

Drawer-pulls, 32, 288.

Drawers

right,

87.

chisels, 24.

Fixed condenser, a home-made "wireless," 241.

Flags for snow battleships, 284, 286. Flash lamp for camping, an electric, 343. Flat-iron rest, 143.

Flushing Pushmobile Club, The, 365; of, 365-367. "Flying airships," clockwork, 203. Folding rule, a 2-foot, 26.

Food

races

supplies, camp, 345. Foot-bar for coaster, 290; for bob-sled, 293.

Footstool, 114.

Duffle box, 344.

Fore-plane, 20.

Dumb-bell lifting stunt, 258. Dumb-bell rack, 177.

Foreshorten, def. of term, 319.

Framing

chisel, 24.

;

INDEX Fringe for brass craft, 214. Funnels for snow battleships, 284. Furnishing an attic room, 159. Furniture, box and barrel, 160; writing-desk, waste-basket, office chair, 160; 163; 164; arm-rocker, 164; barrel table, 166; chiflFonier, 167; pirate chest, 159; win-

dow

431

Gymnasium

apparatus, for a boy's room, chest-weight, striking-bag 170; 170; platform, 173; chinning -bar, 175; hitchand-kick, 175; wand, 176; rack for dumb-bells, Indian clubs, and wand, 177.

H

seat, 159.

Furniture, camp, 349 a chair, 349 a table, 349; a table bench, 350; a box bench, ;

;

350 ; cupboards, 350. Furniture, doll, 182; a round-seated chair, a dining 182; a round center-table, 182 ;

table,

182; a square-seated, chair, 183;

a cradle, 183. Furniture, easily made, 103 a whisk -broom holder, 105, 185; a clock-shelf, 105; a corner-clock shelf, 184; a key -board, ;

183; a match-box, 185; a cottage piperack and match-box, 186; a cottage match-box, 188; a necktie-rack, 107; book-racks, 107 an a towel-rack, 107 tabourets, extension book-rack, 108; no, 112; a plant stand, 114; a footstool, 114; bench, 117; magazine racks, 120; a music-cabinet, 122; an umbrella-stand, 125; a Roman chair, 126; a Mission chair, 128; a Mission writing-desk, 129; an electric lamp, 130; a drafting table, ;

;

133;

a desk table, 133.

Half-lap joint, 60. Halved-joint, 60. Halved-splice, 60.

Hammer,

17; a tack, 17.

Handle-bars,

sled, 293.

Handscrews, 29. Hanging lamp, a home-made, 158. Hatchet,

16.

Hay-stove

(see Fireless cooker).

Headlights, 373. Heart-shakes, 47.

Heart-wood, 44. Heater for attic room, 157, Hertzian waves, 226. Hinge-hasp, 31. Hitch-and-kick, 175. Holder, a whisk-broom, 105; Holes, cutting large, 142.

Home

workshop, the,

a shade, 215.

i.

Hood, a pushmobile, 372. Hooks, spool, 155. Horn, a home-made bass, 420. Horse, a carpenter's, 36.

Horse and hound, moving pictures, 272. Horses for merry-go-round, 193. a dog-, House, a bird- (see Bird-houses) ;

Gauge, a marking-, 26; a mortise-, Gauging, 52.

27.

Gears, model aeroplane running-, 311, 316, 321. Gifts, cigar-box, 183 (see Furniture). Gimlet, a hand, 22. Girl riders for merry-go-round, 195. Glider, a cardboard bird, 303 ; a

simple monoplane, 304 a race, 306. Gong, a trip, 376. Gothic letters, for working-drawings, 102. Gouge, 24. ;

Grindstone, 30. Groove, 66. Ground-cloth, a tent, 341.

Grounding an

aerial, 230.

Grounds, 116.

Guns

for

snow

battleship, 283, 285.

389.

Housed- joint, 66. Household conveniences,

135

(see

Contri-

vances for the house). Houses for pets, 389; a dog-house, 389; a a breeding hutch, rabbit-hutch, 391 a two-story rabbit-hutch, 395 394 a rabbit yard, 398 a cage for white rats, ;

;

;

a pigeon-cote, 402. Hutch, a rabbit-, 391; a breeding, 394; a painting, 402 two-story rabbit-, 39S drinking receptacles, floor covering, 402 399;

;

;

402.

Ice-pick and ice-chisel rack, 148.

Indian club rack, 177. Induction-coil, a "wireless," 245.

;

;;;

INDEX

432

Inkstand, a home-made pencil box and, 96. Instruments, drawing, 90; "wireless" re"wireless" transmitting, ceiving, 232;

Lock, a mortise-, and a half-mortise, 125. Lockers for a boy's room, 154.

a boys' band of home-made, 416. 24s Insulation of the "wireless " aerial, 229.

Lug

;

Insulators, porcelain, 229.

Logs, cutting up, 45. pole, 346. Lumber, preparation

seasoning

of,

stock sizes

of,

defects In, 47 drying of, 48; 49; estimating cost of, 51. of,

45

;

kiln

48;

M Jack-in-the-box, 181.

Machine, a simple moving-picture, 270.

Jack-knife, 15. Jack-plane, 19. Joints, 57;

common-, 60;

butt-, 60; halved-,

mortise-and-tenon, 61; 60; tongue-andhoused-, 66 65 mitered, 66 dovetail, 66 groove, 66 dovetail half-lap, 68; dowel, 68. or

lap-,

rabbet-,

;

;

;

;

;

Juggling with "heavy" balls, 260. Juvenile Manufacturing Co., The, 103.

Magazine Magazine

of

snow

battleship, 285.

racks, 120.

Magical mortar, 260; stunts with

battery of snow battleship, 285. Mallet, a wooden, 17.

Manual

training, elementary, 42.

Marconi, Guglielmo, 219. Marking-gauge, 26.

Mast

for

Masts

K

snow

battleship, 283.

for aerial, 230.

Match-box, a kitchen, 185 Keel board, an inner, for punt, 353

;

for

and, 186;

cottage pipe-rack a cottage, 188; a safety, 344.

Matched-and-beaded

sharpie, 361.

Matched

Key, a "wireless," 248. Key-board, 183.

;

stuff, 49.

stuff, 49.

of workshop working-, purchasing, 50 estimating cost of, 43 51; upholstering, 116; brass craft, 206. Material boxes, 34. Mattress, a pine twig, 341.

Material, selection

Keyhole-saw, 18. Kiln drying, 48.

;

;

Knife, a jack-, 15; a draw-, 25. Knife-box, 146. Knife switch, a double-throw, single-pole, a double-throw, double- pole, 248. 231 ;

Knobs,

the, 261.

Main

spool, 169.

Medullary rays, 45. Meets, model aeroplane, 300;

pushmobile,

365-

Knots, 47.

Merry-go-round, a clockwork,

L

for,

193;

sleighs for,

194;

190; girl

horses

and boy

riders for, 195 ; to animals for, 197 operate, 197. Microphone detector, a home-made, 233 a razor blade, 235. ;

Lacquer for brass craft, 209. Lamp, an electric, 130; a home-made hanging-, 158.

Lamp-shade, 212 holder for Lantern hanging-lamp, 158; ;

a,

Mill

215.

a "Paul Re-

vere," 216.

Latch, a cabin, 157. Laying out work, 5 1 working-drawings, 100. Lettering working-drawings, 102. Level, 27; a pocket, 28. ;

LeveHng up uneven

legs of furniture,

112.

License number, a pushmobile, 373.

Light for workshop, 3 for attic room, 158. Lines, dimension, loi center-, dot-anddash, dotted, and marginal, 102 plumb-, ;

;

;

153.

list, preparation of a, 50. Mission chair, 128. Mission writing-desk, 129. Miter-box, a home-made, 39.

Mitered-joint, 66.

Mitered-sphce, 66.

Moat, 412.

Model aeroplanes (see Aeroplanes). Monoplane model aeroplane, a simple, 304 a French, 309; an Antoinette, 314; a more elaborate, 316. (For parts see Aeroplanes.)

Morse telegraph

code, 250.

INDEX

433

Mortar, the magical, 260.

Paper

Mortise, 62. Mortise- and-tenon joints, 61.

97Parallel, batteries connected in,

Mortise-gauge, 27. Mortising chisel, 24. Motors, clockwork, 190, 198; to operate, 197 increasing speed of, 205. winding for Motors, model aeroplane, 307

Paring with a

;

;

flights,

Moving

308.

a simple machine for, the circus 270; the clown and ball, 272 horse and hound, 272; the automobile, the the revolving wheels, 276; 273; boxing match, 277. Multiple, batteries connected in, 247 and 253. Music-cabinet, 122. pictures, 270;

;

for

working drawings, 96

for tracing,

;

247, 253.

chisel, 63.

Partition for attic room, 149.

"Paul Revere"

lantern, a brass, 216.

Pencil box, a home-made, 96. Pencils, drawing, 94. Pennants for a boy's room, 159; battleship, 284.

for

a snow

Pens, 95.

Pen

tray, 211.

Perspective drawing, def. of a, 88. Picture-frames, home-made, 159. Pictures, moving, 270.

Pigeon-cote, 402.

Pins for mortise-and-tenon joints, 65.

N

Pirate chest, 159. Pith of a tree, 44.

Nail boxes and cans, 34 and 35. Naihng, 74; toe-, 152 (Fig. 173).

Plain sawing, 45. Plan, def. of, 87.

Nails, 74. Nail-set, 17.

Plane, a jack-, 19; a smoothing-, 20 afore-, 20 a rabbet-, 20 a dado-, 20. Planes for model aeroplanes, 306, 311, 315, ;

Naval battle, a snow, 285; Necktie-rack, 107. Nest boxes, rat-cage, 400. Netting, poultry-, 393.

rules for a, 285.

323; stability, 303; warping

of,

313, 318

(Fig. 399).

Planing exercise, 54. Planks, sizes of lumber known Plant stand, no, 114. Platforms for auto-airship, 334.

O Odd

;

;

jobs, the, 28.

as, 49.

Pliers, 28.

Office chair, 163.

Plumb-board, 153.

Ohm,

Plumb-line, 153.

252.

-^

Oiler, 30.

Pocket

Oil heater for attic room, 157 Oiling woodwork, 84.

Polishing, wood, 83 brass, 209. Pot-cover rack, 141.

Oil stains, 79.

Potentiometer,

level, 28. ;

Oilstone, 30.

a

home-made

"wireless,"

243-

14; a wood finishing, 75; a drawing, 90; a brass craft, 206 a "wireless" receiving, 232; a "wireless" transmitting, 245 a camping, 337. Oven, a Dutch, 348.

Outfit, a tool,

;

;

Pothooks, 347. Poultry-netting, 393. Pressure, electrical, 252.

Priming coat,

78.

Printing-frame for blueprints, a home-made, 99.

Professor for a boys' vaudeville show, the, 261; his magical mortar, 260; stunts,

Packing a camp

outfit, 343.

mixing, 76. Painter for punt, 355 Painting, 77.

Paint, 75

;

Panel door, 124. Paneling, 124.

261-263.

Program board

;

for sharpie, 362.

for vaudeville

show, 268

an auto-airship, 33s. Propellers, model aeroplane, 306, 310, shafts and bearings for, 307.. 321 Punching-bag (see Striking-bag).

Propeller,

;

.3i.5»

;;

INDEX

434

Punt, a home-made, 351; dimensions, 351; material, 351; side boards, 352; stem-

and 353

;

stern-pieces, ;

353

;

bottom boards,

inner keel board, 353

rowlocks, 354

;

seats,

thole-pins, 355

;

354

;

painter,

;

finishing, 355. 355 Pushmobile, a, 364 a, club, 365, 368 a 367; to construct a, 368; axles, wagon-bed, 369; steering-gear, hood, 372; radiator-front, 372; 373; headlights, 373; side lamps, ;

;

painting, 373

;

license

;

race,

368; 369;

Rest for flat-iron, 143. Revolving wheels moving picture, 276. Rib-bands, auto-airship balloon, 331. Ridge-pole, a tent, 340. Rip-saw, 18. Rocker, an arm, 164. Roller, a towel-, 147.

Roman

chair, 126.

seat,

Roof, castle, 408.

373; a

Room

number, 373

;

racing pushmobile, 373.

Push wagon, a simple, 376; wagon-bed, 376; rear wheels, 377;

Resistance, electrical, 252.

front wheels, 377.

an

in

attic,

a

boy's,

149;

parti-

tions for, 149; lockers for, 154; clothes closet for, 155; heater for, 157; wash-

stand

for,

158; lighting, 158; furnishing,

159-

Puttying, 84.

Rowlocks, 354.

Putty-knife, a home-made, 85.

Rubbing woodwork, 83. Rudder, a model aeroplane,

316,

a

324;

sharpie, 362.

Rule, a 2-foot folding, 26. Ruler, a 12-inch, 94. Ruling-pen, 93.

Quarter sawing, 46.

R

Runners

Rabbet, 65.

shoes

for coaster, 287 for,

;

for bob-sled, 291

288.

Running-gears, model aeroplane, 311, 316,

Rabbet-joint, 65. Rabbet-plane, 20.

321.

Rabbit-hutch (see Hutch). Rabbit yard, 398. Races, model aeroplane, 300, 306, 325 pushmobile, 365-368. "Race track," a rat-cage, 401. Rack, a tool-, 33 a necktie-, 107 a towel-, an extension book-, a book-, 107 107 108; a magazine-, 1 20 a p)ot-cover, 141 a bottle-, 141; a flat-iron, 144; an icepick and ice-chisel, 148; a broom-handle towel-, 158 a dumb-bell, Indian club, and wand, 177. Radiator-front, a pushmobile, 372. ;

;

;

;

;

;

;

Ratchet-brace, 21:

.

aerial,

227; insulating, 229; grounding, 230; telephone receivers, 232 microphone ;

razor blade microphone 233 detector, silicon detector, 236 235 tuning-coil, 237 fixed condenser, 241 potentiometer, 243 arrangement of instruments, 248; to receive a call, 249;

detector,

;

;

;

;

codes, 250.

the strong man, 256; stunts 256-260. Sandpapering, 84.

Sap-wood, 45. Saw, cross-cut, 18; keyhole-, 18; bracket-, 18;

for,

rip-, 18; compass-, 18; back-, 18; coping-, 18;

scroll-,

19.

Saw-bench, a chair, 38. Sawing, plain, 45 quarter, 46 ;

;

exercise in,

57-

Scale for mechanical drawing, 94. Scales to which drawings are made, 88.

Ratchet screw-driver, 23. Razor blade microphone detector, 235. Receivers, telephone, 232. Receiving outfit, a "wireless," 232;

Sam Dow,

Scratch-awl, 22. Screw-driver, a spiral-ratchet, 23 ; a hand, 23; a, bit, 23. Screws, 72; fastening together work with, 73.

Scribing, 51. Scroll-saw, 19.

Scrub-pail platform, 146.

Seasoning lumber, 48. Seat, a window, 159; bob-sled, 292.

a coaster,

289;

a

;

;

INDEX bob-sled, 292 punt, coaster, 289 354; sharpie, 361; wagon, 373, 376. Secondary battery of snow battleship, 285. Seats,

;

;

and longitudinal,

Section, def. of cross-,

88.

connected in, 247, 253. Series-parallel, batteries connected in, 247, Series, batteries

pennant, 284 signal flags, 284 Union Jack, 284 national ensign, 284 funnels, ventilators, 285 284 main-battery and secondary battery guns, 285 ammunition stores, 285 duties of the Captain, 285 a naval battle, 285 ; rules for a naval ;

a candle-, 214.

;

;

;

;

;

boats,"

holders, 215.

ship,

Shafts for model aeroplanes, propeller, 307, 310, 322. heart-, 47. Shakes, cup-, 47 ;

Sharpie,

home-made,

a

356

dimensions,

;

:

;

battle, 285;

253-

Shade, a lamp-, 212;

Shade

435

286; "torpedo 286; marksman-

flag of truce,

286;

repairs,

286.

Socket and drop-cord for lamp, 131. Spark-coil, 245.

Spark-gap, 246. Specifications, 86.

side pieces, 357; stem-piece, 358; stretcher, 358; putstern-piece, 358;

Spiral-ratchet screw-driver, 23.

the pieces together, 358; bottom boards, 359 skeg, 360 inner keel board,

Splices,

356; ting

;

;

bow, 361 painter, 362 seats, 361 rudder, 362; rowlocks, 363. Shelf, a clock, 105 a corner clock, 184. 361

;

;

;

;

;

Shellac, 81.

Spirit level, 27.

57; common-, 60; halved, 60; mitered-, 66.

Spoke-shave, 25. Spool hooks, 155; knobs, 169. Spreader for aerial, 229. Square, a try-, 26 a carpenter's Squares, enlarging by, 207, 287. ;

Shellacking, 81. Shelter, a bird, 387.

Stability planes, 303.

Shelves for workshop, 34; for books, 163. Shoes for sled runners, 288. Shooting-board, 40. Shop equipment, work-benches, 3-13 tools, 14-30; tool-chest, 30; tool-cabinet, S3'^ tool-rack, t,s material boxes, 34-36 horse, 36 chair saw-bench, 38 miterbox, 39 bench-hook, 40 shootingboard, 40. Show, stunts for a boy's vaudeville (see Vaudeville show). Side lamp, a bicycle lamp, 373 a clock-case,

Staflf,

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

373Silicon detector, a Silver grain in

home-made, 236.

26.

a drum-major's, 424.

Staining, 78. Stains, water, 79; Stakes, tent, 340.

oil,

79.

Stand, a tea-pot, 209. Steel square, 26.

Steering foot-bar, sled, 293. Steering-gears, wagon, 369, 374, 375. Steering lines, sled, 293; wagon, 371, 375. Steering-wheels, wagon, 369, 374, 375.

the sharpie, 358. Stem-piece, the punt, 353 the sharpie, 358. Stern-piece, the punt, 353 sizes of, 49. Stock, def. of term, 48 ;

;

Stop, an adjustable bench-, 12.

Stop chamfer,

Sled, a coaster, 287

;

Stops,

a bob-, 290.

71.

home-made bench-,

11; door, 125.

Storage battery, 246. Stove, camp, 347.

Sleeping-bag, 342. Sleeve-board, 145. Sleighs for merry-go-round, 194.

;

;

;

;

;

;

crosstree,

284;

Stove for attic room, 157. platform Structure of wood, 44. Striking-bag, 173;

Smoothing-plane, 20. Snare drums, home-made, 423. Snow battleship, 279; central station, 279; hull, 280; torpedo tube, 281; superstructure deck, 283 conning-tower, 283 forward turret, 283 midship turret, 283 mast, 283 fighting-tops, 283 rapid-fire 283;

steel,

Stool, a foot-, 114.

wood, 45.

model aeroplane, 311.

guns,

60;

;

Skeg, 360. Skids,

fished-,

coach-whip

StufT,

def.

173.

term,

of

dressed, 48

for,

;

48; undressed, 48; matched, 49 matched-and;

beaded, 49. Swing, a bird, 386. Switch, a double-throw single-pole knife, 231; a double-throw double-pole knife, 248.

;

;;

INDEX

43^

a drafting, gi, 133; a desk, 133; a barrel, 166; a doll's round center-, 182 a camp, 349. a doll's dining-, 182 Tabourets, no, 112. Table,

;

;

Tails,

model aeroplane, 316, 325.

Taper, 71. Targets for Willie Shute's vaudeville stunts, 267.

Tea-pot stand, a brass, 209. Telephone receivers, 232. Tenon, 63. Tent, cost of a, 337; how to make an "A," 338; to pitch a, 340.

248; arrangement of instruments, 248; operation of, 249; to make a call, 250; codes, connection of batteries, 250; 253-

Transom

for door, 157.

Tray, a tool, 10; a brass pen, 211. Treasure vaults, castle, 409. Trestletrees, 283.

Triangles, 92.

Trip gong, 376. Trombone, a home-made, 418. Truce, a flag of, 286. Try-square, 26. T-square, 91.

Tuner

(see Tuning-coil).

home-made

Thole-pins, 355.

Tuning-coil, a

Thumb-tacks, 96.

Turnbuckles, 174.

Tickets, admission, 269.

Turrets,

Toe-nailing, 152 (Fig. 173). Tongue-and-groove joint, 66.

snow

"wireless,"

283

battleship,

237.

castle,

;

407.

Twist wire

cloth, 393.

Tool-cabinet, S3Tool-chest, 30.

Tool drawers,

U

10.

Tool-rack, 33. Tools, purchasing,

14; a handy guide for purchasing, 15; the principal, 1 5 a small outfit of, 15; a chest for, 30; cabinet rack for, ss drawing, 90 for, 2)3

Undressed stuff, 48. Uniforms for a boys' band, 424.

brass craft, 206.

Upholstering,

;

;

Tool tray,

"Torpedo

;

Umbrella-stand, 125. Undercutting, 114.

and material

for, 116.

10.

boats"

for

snow

battleship,

286.

Torpedo tube for snow battleship, 281. Towel-rack, 107; a broom-handle, 158. Towel-roller, 147.

Tower, a

bird, 382 a tin-can bird, 382. Toys, cigar-box, 178; an express-wagon, 180; a cart, 180; an auto delivery-wagon, 180; a jack-in-the-box, 181; a roundseated chair, 182 a round center-table, 182; a dining-table, 182; a squareseated chair, 183; a doll's cradle, 183. Toys, clockwork, 189; merry-go-round, 190; "flying miniature Ferris wheel, 198; ;

;

airships," 203.

Tracing-cloth, 97. Tracing-paper, 97.

Transmitting

outfit,

a

"wireless,"

245; aerial, 227; insulating, 229; grounding, spark-gap, an induction-coil, 245 230 246 storage battery, 246 dry batteries, 247; "wireless" key, 248; knife switch, ;

;

;

;

Vanderbilt Pushmobile Varnishing, 83.

Cup

Race, The, 366.

Vaudeville show, stunts for a boys', 256 Sam Dow, 256; lifting feats, 256-260; juggling, 260; Bonehead, 260; magical mortar, 260; the professor, 261; the trick, 261 other mortar the professor's final exthe dummy assistant, 263 Falsetto, 263 the Ventriloquist, 264 his his doll, 264; Willi^ Shute, 266; his blunderbuss, targets, 268; 267; program board, 268; admission tickets,

wonderful hat stunts,

262 hibition, 262

;

;

;

;

;

269. Vaults, castle secret treasure, 409. Ventriloquist, how a boy can be doll for the, 264.

Vise, bench-, 6

Volt, 252.

;

an

iron, 8.

a,

264;

; ;

;

INDEX

W Wagon, a toy livery-,

1

364;

237 tentiometer,

a toy auto de-

express, i8o;

80.

a racing push-

a pushmobile, 368;

373

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

;

250.

Wireless telegraphy, development

of,

219;

basket, 164.

amateur commercial stations, 223 fundamental principles of, 224 what some boys have accomplished, 221. Wiring a socket, plug, and drop-cord, 132. Wood, structure of, 44; defects in, 47.

stains, 79.

Wood

.

(Fig.

399).

Wash-stand

Waxing,

for attic

room, 158.

Whisk-broom

holders, 105, 185.

drum

targets, 267

polishing, 83 stunts,

266

;

his

his blunderbuss, 278.

;

84

;

oiling,

puttying,

;

;

;

;

8.

aration

47.

scales of,

Wire

cloth, 393. Wireless Club, The Chicago, 222.

219;

code card, 223; call list, 223; aerogram 223; aerial, 227; masts, 230; insulating, 229; grounding, 230; doublethrow, single-pole knife switch, 231 telephone receivers, microphone 232 detector, 233 razor blade microphone detector, 235 silicon detector, 236 tunblanks,

light

for,

3

;

equipment

location for

(see

of,

28.

Writing-desk, a Mission, 129; a box, 160.

;

Yard, a rabbit, 398.

2

Shop

equipment).

Wrench,

;

;

'>re'>-

of, 43.

;

boy's,

'

100.

of,

Working edge, def. of, 56. Working face, def. of, 55. Working material, selection Workshop, the home, i

dividers, 27.

a

;

sandpapering, home-made putty-

84

;

;

Wings, model aeroplane (see Planes).

outfit,

;

;

Working drawings, 86;

Wind-shakes (same as Cup-shakes),

;

;

;

84 caution about oily rags, 85. Work bench, a cabinet-made, 3 a homemade, 3 a solid, 4 a, with tool drawers, ;

knife, 85

seat, 159.

telegraph

mixing paint, 75 75 76; painting, 77; brushes, 77; staining, 78; water stains, 79; oil stains, filler, and filling, 82 79; shellacking, 81 varnishing, 83 waxing, 83 rubbing, 83 finishing,

paints,

;

Winding, testing a board for, 55. Winding-sticks, 55. Windlass, a castle drawbridge, 411.

Wireless

drill bit, 22.

;

major's, 424.

White rat cage, 399. WiUie Shute's vaudeville

Window

;

Wood

joints, 65.

Wheels, the moving-picture revolving, 276. Wheels, wagon, 364, 368, 377. Whistle, a

;

Wood-file, a half round, 25.

83.

Wedging mortise-and-tenon

Wing

;

;

a an auto wagon, 374 simple push wagon, 376. Wainscoting for attic room, 155. Wand, a home-made, 176; rack for a, 177. Warping, cause of wood, 45. Warping model aeroplane planes, 313, 318

Waste Water

fixed condenser, 241 poinduction-coil, 245 243 spark-gap, 246 storage battery, 246 dry batteries, 247 wireless key, 248 doublethrow, double-pole knife switch, 248; arrangement of instruments, 248 operation of instruments, 249 to receive a call, 249; to make a call, 250; codes, ing-coil,

Wagons, pushmobiles and other home-made, mobile,

437