Pattern Grading apparel
Pattern Grading is the process where by patterns of different sizes are produced from the original master pattern. This process can be performed manually or automatically by a computerized system. Patterns are graded according to size charts which present the sizes and the average measurements of the population group for which the garments are intended.In order to produce garment that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a
In this page 1. Shrinkage 2. What is Pattern Grading? 3. Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading
Shrinkage When fabric is cut for making making garments, it is important to ensure ensure that fabric is fully relaxed and is not subjected to any additional tension or strain during rolling or unrolling unro lling while layering for cutting. So fabrics are often relaxed prior to cutting to t o ensure that the shrinkage is minimized in a garment. Garments which are unwashed and can shrink while laundering at customers end are made with measurements with shrinkage tolerance included. Woven fabric garments typically shrink just a little . This will usually be about 2-3% which is fairly unnoticeable. Knits that are not garment dyed will be more effected by washing and drying. Shrinkage for knit fabrics can be anywhere from 1-8% and 95% of this shrinkage will take
place the first time it is laundered. In these cases shrinkage is incorporated in all the patterns of a garment. This shrinkage incorporated in patterns could be lengthwise or width wise depending on type of fabric.
Shrinkage adjusting Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments.
What is Pattern Grading? Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." Each company determines its own grade specifications for each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. Grading is the method used to increase or decrease the sample size production pattern to make up a complete size range. For example, the sample size 10 patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16 and smaller for sizes 8 and 6. Each company sets predetermined grade specifications, or rules. For example, a missy manufacturer’sgrade rules might call for increments of one and a half inches in width and a quarter inchin length for each size. Today most manufacturers grade pattern on CAD systems. The pattern maker guides a cursor around the edges of the sample pattern on a digitized table. At each of the key points, he or she pushes a button to record a grade point. Each point is cross referenced by a grade-rule table stored in the computer, which enlarges or reduces the pattern automatically according to the predetermined direction.If the pattern was originally made by
computer, data are already in the computer and can be enlarged or reduced automatically. Pre-programmed grade rules for increase or decrease are automatically applied to the pieces of each grading location. Then the computer can print out the pattern in each new size. Manufacturers often use an out side service to make patterns, grade patterns, and make the marker Although many small firms still use traditional grading methods, grading, like patternmaking, is becoming increasingly computerized. Using a CAD system, the pattern can be resized according to a predetermined table of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can then print out the pattern in each size. Because the productivity gains are so great, small to medium-sized manufacturers are beginning to acquire their own CAD systems for grading. Alternatively, they may use an outside grading service to perform this function.
Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and plays a big role in not only getting correct fit and drape of a garment but also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a technique of scaling a pattern to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It must be done accurately. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. The purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style details. It’s important to remember that grading only makes a shape larger or smaller and isn’t intended to change a shape. Grading also reflects the fact that
individuals of different sized are proportionately different, not uniformly different.
Stacking or “0” point for grading For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the “x” or “y” grading of pattern. It is defined as “0” point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front it is perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleev e the “0” point is centre of sleeve at the bicep line.
Length Grade
Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point. Shoulder line should remain parallel between sizes.
Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and the bottom. Grading is divided between shoulder/beck point, neck drop, armhole, waist, hip and bottom. Body length combined grading is total of centre front length and neck drop.
Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always parallel to check line.
Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and armhole height grade
Sleeve Grade
Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap height grade and sleeve bicep grade along the armhole curve.
Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap grade is applied above bicep line and sleeve cap while balance length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff
Importance of Pattern Making in Garment making apparel
Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction.
In this page 1. Pattern making technique 2. Methods of pattern making
Pattern making technique
Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For successful dress designing pattermaking forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusibles etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment. There are three methods of preparing patterns: 1. Drafting 2. Draping 3. Bought or commercial pattern
Methods of pattern making Drafting
Is a two dimensional basic method of preparing a paper pattern. The pattern is prepared on brown paper using personal measurements of the wearer. The garment prepared by this method fits exactly to the satisfaction of the wearer. It is economical to draft one's own pattern. Also changes in style can be made adopting the basic pattern. This type of pattern can be constructed by drafting manually or produced by a computer which has been programmed to construct basic patterns according to given measurements and proportions.
Draping Draping can be treated as one involving a detailed survey and study of the figure to build up a reliable fitting experience. Draping originally was called modelling. This was the original method of constructing garment patterns and is still widely used in the clothing design houses in Paris Draping is a free approach and is always to a certain extent experimental and cannot be described as a precise technique. Modelling is done in a fitting room on a dressform with a stand. Dressforms vary in size. Generally an average sized dress form of bust 88 cms or 92 cms is selected for this purpose. The designer works from a sketch or a mental picture and gives a 3-dimension form to an idea of a garment. The wrong side of the fabric is draped on the dressform or a figure. The effect of the fabric as it flows and drapes is readily visible on the dress form. Muslin cloth is used for draping. As the fabric is draped on the dress form pin, and mark the stitching line with a pencil. The muslin pattern which is the end product of draping is removed from the stand and each component is copied on to the paper pattern and necessary allowances are then added to give the design effect as planned by the designer.
Bought or Commercial Patterns
These patterns provide fashions in current trend designed to fit certain sizes. It is available in tissue paper. These patterns indicate neck sizes for garments such as shirts, chest or bust measurements for children and women; waist, hip and length measurements for pants and skirts. Even to those with the ability and desire to design their own clothing, a commercial pattern makes a good starting point. These patterns explain the steps in using the pattern and are mostly used by dress manufacturing companies. It also gives information on suitable fabrics, quantity of material required, pattern layouts etc. Most figures differ considerably from the average. Uses of Paper Patterns:
Paper patterns are useful not only to the beginner but also to the expert as there is no risk of the material being wrongly cut.
It is particularly useful to the beginner as it is a better method of learning than cutting the material directly.
Paper patterns can be preserved and used whenever required and is therefore time and labour saving.
Adjustment in paper patterns can be done to ensure perfect fitting. By using the basic paper pattern it is possible to bring changes in the design. For example the basic sleeve can be adopted to puff or bell sleeve.
The use of paper pattern will enable one to cut a garment with a minimum amount of fabric because it is possible for the dress designer to try out the placement of pattern pieces in an economical way.
Contents of Paper Patterns
Margin: Extra safety margins are cut beyand the actual cutting line to make adjustments while stitching. Margins are generally allowed on upholstry items such as sofa slip covers.
Cutting line: This is the actual line on which garments are cut. Stitching line: Paper pattern shows the exact stitching line so that the person stitching the garment will identify where exactly the actual stitching has to be done.
Fold line: When there are two sides to a pattern such as back & front side then the fold line on the pattern has to be clearly indicated marking it as Fold Line.
Grain line: Every pattern piece has an arrow indicating the grainline whether the fabric has to be cut on straight or cross grain, Collars, cuffs and other trimmings are cut on the cross grain to give a better finish to the garment.
Construction details: Tucks, darts, button holes, centre front, centre back, pocket markings, buttons, style features of the garment are all shown on the paper pattern'
Graceful curves and shapes wherever required on the paper pattern are also clearly indicated.
Pattern size and particulars like front, back, sleeve, collar, cuff etc are shown.
If necessary the pattern can also suggest and explain the steps in preparing the garment like marking, cutting and stitching the garment. This is generally done in a commercial pattern to enable the sewer to use the pattern correctly.
Pattern Making apparel apparel-making
The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one of the earliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion. Nowaydays sophisticated software programs are used for pattern making.
In this page 1. History of Pattern Making 2. Pattern Making Process
History of Pattern Making
Prior to the Industrial Revolution the art of patternmaking was highly revered. Tailors meticulously worked with their client's personal measurements to customize patterns. Clothing made by tailors was elaborate and relegated only to the very rich. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the
success of ready-to-wear clothing. Initial attempts to create standardized patterns resulted in poorly fitting garments with little detail. Men's suits were boxy, plain, ill-fitting sacks. After lengthy experimentation and standardized sizing, patternmaking made a triumphant transformation from customization to standardization. Patterns can be formed by either a 2D or 3D process. Often a combination of methods is used to create the pattern. The most common 2D patternmaking methods are flat, drafting and reverse engineering. In the flat method, a pattern is generated from an existing foundation pattern called a sloper or block. A sloper is a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines. From a sloper a myriad of garment styles can be generated. The patternmaker creates a new style by adding design details such as a collar, pocket and pleats. The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate. In the drafting method, patterns are made directly from measurements taken from a preexisting garment, an individual or a body form. Using the collected measurements, the pattern is drawn directly onto paper. Reverse engineering is sometimes referred to as garment deconstruction or a knock-off. In the reverse engineering process, patterns are made from an existing garment. The garment is taken apart, analyzed and the patterns pieces are made. In the 3D patternmaking process, the pattern pieces are generated from a 3D form. Draping is one of the oldest methods used to generate a pattern. In the traditional draping process, a garment is produced by molding, cutting and pinning fabric to a mannequin or individual. Style lines and constructions details of the drape are carefully marked and removed. Fabric pieces with the construction and style details are generated. The fabric pieces are then laid flat over pattern paper and traced. The pattern is finalized by adding directional markings such as grainlines, notches,
buttonholes, correct seam and hem allowances and facings. Draping is especially helpful when developing intricate garment styles or using unusual fabric.< p/> Computers have been used by apparel companies since the early 1980's. Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in much of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking. PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible amount of data that can be quickly retrieved, tweaked and re-filed. Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and make changes. There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious. In today's competitive environment, software companies are zeroing in on the growing demands of the apparel manufacturer. The ability to mass produce customized patterns according to an individual's unique body shape could offer tremendous benefits to the consumer, retailer and apparel manufacturer.The textile industry continues to research this exciting field with a long term goal of bringing superior fit and performance to the customer. The apparel industry is notoriously fast-paced and competitive. Innovative software companies continue to make improvements to their PDS to enable apparel companies to better serve their customers. Current research focuses on generating patterns that produce better fitting garments and 3D visualization tools to help fine tune style. With ongoing technological advances and diligent research, patternmaking software companies continue to successfully address the needs of their customers.
Pattern Making Process
Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of a pattern to smaller or bigger sizes. Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern. "Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a complete garment. For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on paper because the cost of computerized systems remains prohibitive. The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. S/he may "manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces. S/he may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by converting the shapes of the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces. Alternatively, s/he may pin pieces of muslin to a garment being copied and rub tailor's chalk over the seams and darts, making a "muslin rub." The chalk markings are then used to create a flat paper pattern. From this initial pattern, a sample garment is developed. The sample process allows a designer to correct any problems inherent in translating a
one-dimensional sketch into a two-dimensional garment; it ensures that the designer's fabric yardage specifications are accurate; and it provides an opportunity to spot potential production problems inherent in a design. Once the sample is made, the manufacturer makes a small batch of duplicates for its sales force to test market. If they sell well, the garment goes into larger volume production. Although many firms still make patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns on a computer using CAD software. Other systems have been developed that allow patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus attached to a computer. As the patternmaker indicates points with the stylus, the pattern pieces are automatically entered into the CAD system where they can immediately be accessed for grading and marking. Although pattern making is becoming increasingly computerized, patternmakers still must learn the manual method because making patterns manually develops an advanced understanding of garment construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced by a computer.
Pattern grading is the process of
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This isn't something that most people will need to do; but if you're a dressmaker and do bridal wear (for example), or want to design a small line of clothing, you should understand what grading is about.
Women's sewing patterns are generally designe to fit a specific size (usually an 8 or 10). That is the sample size, and the fit is perfected on that sample. Once the fit is approved for that size, the patt er is "graded" for a full range of sizes (usually size to 18, for misses sizes).
The "grade rules" refer to the amount of change between sizes, for each measurement point. For example, the bust, waist and hip "grade" 1" between sizes for most of the Misses size range. If you started with a size 8 dress and needed t o make another one in a size 10, you'd make the bust, waist and hip 1" larger. You'd do this primarily by making the adjustment at the side seam, and Since your dress has a front and back, you'd adjust 1/2" each in the front and back. And since the front and back each have a left and right side, you'd divide that 1/2" in half again - so you'd adjust each seam (each side of the front and each side of the back) by 1/4" - the total will be a 1" difference between the sizes. Generally, you do NOT make adjustments at the center front or center back. The shoulder, armhole, and neck would be made a bit larger also (see the sketch below to get an idea of the difference between a size and and a size 10 bodice).
58 Similar adjustments are made to the sleeve and skirt, as well as any other styling details (the collar would have to be adjusted to fit the ne ckline, for example). The chart below shows a few of the grade rules for a Misses size range. The "+/-" means, for example, if you are starting with a size 8 and are grading to a size 10, you would ADD 1" to that area of the pattern. If you are grading down to a size 6, you would SUBTRACT 1". You'll notice that
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Pattern grading is fairly complex. It's best to avoid it unless it's necessary. Even if you are making a group of garments in a variety of sizes, unless the group of people wearing them are of very similar proportions, it may be easier to fit and pattern each one separately. However, it's worth learning if you are planning on designing and creating your own clothing line to sell.
Make Clothes that Fit You Perfectly
Using Fitting Patterns
Fitting the Bodice Pattern
Full Bust Adjustment
Fitting the Sleeve Pattern
Fitting the Skirt Pattern
Making Your Personal Pattern Block
Making a Women's Blouse Block
The Importance of Sewing Darts
Pattern Grading