&
NEW SERIES Expert advice for your designs
p. 24
FEBRUARY 2015 Issue 125
BB
A DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT TO BEAD&BUTTON MAGAZINE
SHAPED BEAD MANIA!
Usher in a new year of beading with a scarab pendant p. 47
4 projects
to make with 2-hole beads Learn a twisted brick stitch technique p. 68
RIBER SUBSCUSIVE EXCrLuary 2015
Make a bracelet with interchangeable bands p. 31
Discover the art & fashion of Jamie Okuma p. 42
Plus!
Bead studs and SuperDuos get cozy in this classic bracelet by Svetlana Chernitsky, p. 31.
• Enamel and stringer magic with JC Herrell p. 90 • Design contest favorites p. 16 • Make a bracelet with new mosaic beads p.22 www.BeadAndButton.com
Feb
Your complete beading resource
Stitching with
shaped beads
Make a casual bracelet with baby spikes p. 14
Craft a cobblestone bangle with twohole lentil beads p. 4
Two-hole daggers make an elegant necklace p. 7
Stitch a pretty tiled bracelet with SuperDuos p. 11
WELCOME!
B&B Extra April 2015
Shape up!
Please support these fine sponsors!
S
haped beads, with one hole or two, have been all the rage the past couple of years. Whether you love them or haven’t quite figured out how to use them, we think you’ll enjoy exploring the design possibilities of
shaped beads in this issue of B&B Extra. Nichole Starman’s bracelet (p. 4) combines two-hole lentils and tiles in an
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each logo below!
elegant look. Peggy Melton’s necklace (p. 7) adds two-hole daggers to a base of SuperDuos for a playful and flirty collar. The SuperDuos in Sandie Bachand’s bracelet (p. 11) add a bas-relief texture in a classic design. And Gail Wing’s edgy bracelet (p. 14) shows that spikes don’t always have to be fierce. Now’s the time to get in on the shaped-bead bandwagon — join us!
Then click on the ad to visit the sponsor’s website, and shop for all of your beading needs!
Happy beading!
Editor, Bead&Button
[email protected]
Contents Cobblestone bangle
4
Earthy girl collar
7
Tuscan tiles bracelet
11
Smooth spikes bracelet
14
© 2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher. The designs in B&B Extra are for your personal enjoyment. They may not be taught or sold without permission.
Editor Julia Gerlach
ADVERTISING
Senior Art Director Lisa A. Bergman
Corporate Advertising Director Ann E. Smith
Advertising Sales Dawn Becker, Lori Schneider Associate Editors AdisServices Melissa Valuch, Cassie Donlen, Kristen Scheuing, Connie Whittaker This logo for useRepresentatives on masthead only. Nanette Hackbarth Contributing Editor Leslie Rogalski Do not use less than 100% of full size. Editorial Assistant Lora Groszkiewicz Graphic Designer Lisa M. Schroeder Photographers Bill Zuback, Jim Forbes Illustrator Kellie Jaeger Publisher Linda Kast
B&B Extra is published bimonthly by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612
PLUS Look for links throughout the pages that will connect you to more great content and resources on the Web.
Visit
www.BeadAndButton.com for access to more projects from Bead&Button magazine.
PRECIOSA PipTM
PRECIOSA PipTM
DESIGN BY OLGA HASERODT
ART No.: 111 01 346, SIZE: 5 x7 mm
Click here for instructions to make the bracelet
The Traditional Czech Beads brand is a guarantee of the finest quality Czech product available only from Preciosa Ornela
distributors of traditional czech beadstM Shipwreck Beads | 800-950-4232 | www.shipwreckbeads.com John Bead Corp., Ltd. | 888-755-9055 | www.johnbead.com John F. Allen & Son, Inc. | 800-334-9971 | www.jfallen.com Fire Mountain Gems and Beads | 800-355-2137 | www.firemountaingems.com Har-Man Importing Co. | 1-800-232-3769 | www.harmanbeads.com Frabels Inc. | 514-842-8561 | www.frabels.com Beadsmith / Helby Import | 732-969-5300 | www.beadsmith.com
to disCoVer More About traditional czech beadstM Visit
traditional-czech-beads.com
Agents for usA And CAnAdA
MAnufACturer
Bead & Trim, Inc. | 212-725-9845 | traditional-czech-beads.com Jablonex Canada Inc. | 416-675-1326 |
[email protected]
PRECIOSA ORNELA Czech Republic
TWO-HOLE PEYOTE
Cobblestone bangle
Stitch two-hole lentils and tiles into a textured pattern inspired by Europe’s ancient streets. designed by Nichole Starman
© 2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.
open up
Make sure both holes are open on all two-hole beads before use. b
6 mm tile bead a
6 mm lentil bead, color A 6 mm lentil bead, color B
FIGURE 1
c
d
FIGURE 2
110 seed bead
FIGURE 3
Round 1
1 On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread, pick up a tile bead. Sew through both holes, exiting the adjacent hole (figure 1) and leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail.
editor’s tip
Work the strand flat on your work surface with the tiles lined up as shown in figure 2.
2 Pick up an 110 seed bead, a color B lentil bead, an 110, and a tile (figure 2, a–b). Slide to the previous tile but leave one tile’s width between tiles. Keep the tension loose. Sew through the second hole of the tile just added (b–c). Repeat this stitch (c–d) for a total of 26 tiles. The 110s and lentils should be loose. There should be a tile at each end, and the beadwork should be about 12 in. (30 cm) long, which will create a bangle with a 21⁄4-in. (5.7 cm) inner diameter. To adjust the finished size, work more or fewer repeats.
Difficulty rating
21⁄4 in. (5.7 cm) inner diameter turquoise/blue bangle
• 26 6 mm CzechMates tile beads (LR1006, luster iris topaz) • 6 mm CzechMates lentil beads - 104 color A (21135, matte iris blue) - 156 color B (CT6313, turquoise copper Picasso) • 3 g 110 seed beads (Toho 995F, gold-lined frosted aqua) • Wildfire or Fireline 8 lb. test • beading needles, #11 cream/gold bangle colors
FIGURE 4
Each tile will add 5⁄16 in. (8 mm) to the finished piece. 3 To add 110s and lentils to the other side of the strand: Sew through the other hole of the last tile. Repeat step 2 (figure 3), keeping the thread tension equal to the first side (photo a). 4 Align the ends, making sure the beadwork is not twisted. Pick up an 110, a B lentil, and an 110. Sew through the end hole of the last tile at the other end of the strand. Pick up an 110, a B lentil, and an 110. Tie the working thread and tail together with a square knot, and sew through the other end tile (figure 4). Gently stretch the bangle to even out the tension, making sure the lentils move freely. End the working thread and tail.
Materials
• 6 mm CzechMates tile beads (90215, bronze) • CzechMates lentil beads - color A (29270, halo linen) - color B (P14413, opaque luster champagne) • 110 seed beads (Toho 989, gold-lined crystal) FIGURE 5
Subsequent rounds
1 Attach a stop bead to 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the inner hole (the hole you already sewed through) of a round 1 B lentil. Pick up an 110, a color A lentil, and an 110, and sew through the inner hole of the next B lentil (figure 5). Repeat this stitch to complete the round. Do not sew through the existing 110s. Retrace the thread path through the round but don’t snug up the thread. The rows should lay flat and not curve
purple/copper bangle colors
• 6 mm CzechMates tile beads (90215, bronze) • 6 mm CzechMates lentil beads - color A (K0177, matte metallic copper) - color B (15726, luster transparent amethyst) • 110 seed beads (Toho 928, purple-lined rosaline AB; www.artbeads.com)
Online Beading Basics www.BeadAndButton.com/basics • peyote stitch: zipping up • stop bead • ending and adding thread • square knot
a
February 2015 5
b
FIGURE 6
FIGURE 7
FIGURE 8
FIGURE 9
c
d
or bunch. Attach a stop bead (photo b), and trim the excess thread to 6 in. (15 cm). 2 Work as in step 1 to add a round on the other side of the bangle (figure 6). Everything should lie flat without curving or bunching (photo c). 3 Attach a stop bead to 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the open hole of an A lentil added in step 1. Pick up a B lentil, and sew through the open hole of the next lentil. Repeat around the bangle, adding color B lentils between
the A and B lentils added in the previous rounds (figure 7). Tighten the thread to cinch up the bangle (photo d). Retrace the thread path through the round, attach a stop bead, and trim the excess thread to 6 in. (15 cm). 4 Repeat step 3 along the other side of the bangle (figure 8). 5 On one edge of the bangle, work as in step 3 to add color A lentils between the B lentils (figure 9). Do not add new lentils to the other side. 6 Attach a stop bead to 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, leaving
know before you go
• The diameter cinches up as rounds are added, so plan ahead to make sure your bracelet will fit. • Do not tie threads for different rounds together. • Work both sides of the ring in each round before moving to the next round. • Always sew in the same direction around the bangle.
a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, and sew through the open hole of an edge B lentil. Zip the B lentils to the A lentils just added: Sew through the open hole of the next A lentil added in step 5 followed by the next B lentil. Repeat around to join both sides of the bangle (figure 10). As you zip up, pull the stop beads and tails out of the way. 7 Retrace the thread path through the join, cinching up any slack. Tie half-hitch knots in multiple places to set the tension. Remove all the stop beads, and end all the remaining threads. w
color cue
Use different colors for the stop beads in each round to easily tell them apart.
FIGURE 10
Nichole Starman has been designing Czech glass bead shapes and colors since 2000. She has been instrumental in creating and marketing the CzechMates 2-hole beading system. Nichole enjoys designing architectural pieces to highlight the textural and sculptural possibilities of CzechMates, particularly in combination with Toho seed beads. Contact her at
[email protected], or visit www.czechbeads.com.
February 2015 6
BEAD WEAVING
Earthy girl collar
Pair SuperDuos and two-hole daggers in this adjustable-length collar that fans out in earth tones. designed by Peggy Melton
© 2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.
b
a
dagger
Difficulty rating
c
Materials
FIGURE 1
necklace 16 in. (41 cm) plus extender chain
fan charm
a
SuperDuo bead, color A d
e
SuperDuo bead, color B
c
b
FIGURE 2
SuperDuo bead, color C 3 mm pearl 150 seed bead, color D 150 seed bead, color E
a b
c
flip it For each new row, you
e
d
FIGURE 3
may flip the piece over to work from left to right or right to left as is comfortable.
Collar
1 On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread, pick up a color D 150 seed bead, a 3 mm pearl, a D 150, a pearl, a D 150, a color A SuperDuo bead, and a pearl. Sew through the first three beads to form a ring (figure 1, a–b), leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. 2 Pick up a pearl, a D 150, a pearl, a D 150, and an A SuperDuo, and sew up through the adjacent pearl in the previous round and the next pearl and D 150 (b–c). Repeat this stitch until you have a total of 86 As, or to your desired length, ending with an even number of As. 3 Sew through the end pearl and the next D 150. Pick up three D 150s, and sew through the open hole of the adjacent A SuperDuo (figure 2, a–b). 4 Row 2: Pick up an A, and sew through the open hole of the next A (b–c). Pick up a D 150, a color B SuperDuo, and a D 150, and sew through the open hole of the next A (c–d). Repeat these two stitches (d–e) to complete the row, ending by adding an A.
a e
d
c
b
FIGURE 4
• 173 3 mm glass pearls (Swarovski, deep brown) • 44 two-hole dagger beads (opaque turquoise Picasso) • 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuos - 129 color A (opaque turquoise Picasso) - 42 color B (opaque red white luster) - 86 color C (umber Picasso) • 150 seed beads - 3 g color D (Toho 457C, dark bronze metallic) - 6 g color E (Toho 389, terra cotta lined topaz AB) • 42 6 x 11 mm fan charms, copper finish (TierraCast, deco fan) • 5 in. (13 cm) antiqued copper chain, 7 x 10 mm links • 1 12 x 7 mm lobster clasp, copper • 4 in. (10 cm) 24-gauge copper wire • 3 2-in. (5 cm) copper head pins • 2 5 mm copper wire guards • Fireline 8 lb. test • beading needles, #12 • chainnose pliers • roundnose pliers • wire cutters
Online Beading Basics www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
note Pick up D 150 seed beads
• ending and adding thread • wrapped loops
on each side of the B SuperDuos only, not on each side of the As.
5 Row 3: Pick up three D 150s, a color C SuperDuo, and a D 150, and sew through the open hole of the end A SuperDuo in the previous row (figure 3, a–b). Pick up a D 150 and a C, and sew through the next B SuperDuo (b–c). Pick up a C and a D 150, and sew through the following A SuperDuo (c–d). Repeat these two stitches (d–e) to complete the row. The D 150s should be added next to the As only but do not add a 150 after sewing through the last A in the row.
Peggy Melton has been an artist all her life, and found beading as a hippie during the ’60s. She previously taught corporate sales teams how to create visual presentations until she was able to devote all her time to beading. The former owner of the shop Firefly Jewelry and Beads in Oregon, Peggy has been teaching beading and selling her original designs for 14 years. She encourages everyone to take classes and have fun with beads! Find more of Peggy’s work at www.etsy.com/shopname or contact her at
[email protected].
February 2015 8
keep it curvy
Make sure the work lies flat in a slight curve to fit around your neck.
6 Row 4: Pick up a C SuperDuo, and three D 150s, and sew through the open hole of the C just added (figure 4, a–b). Pick up a dagger (top hole), and sew through the open hole of the next C (b–c). Pick up seven color E 150 seed beads, and sew through the next C (c–d). Repeat these two stitches (d–e) to add daggers and E 150s to complete the row, ending with a dagger. 7 Row 5: Pick up three D 150s, and sew through the other hole of the last C (figure 5 a–b). Continue through the hole your thread exited at the start of the step (b–c). Pick up three D 150s, and sew through the open hole of the last dagger (c–d). Pick up seven E 150s, a charm, and seven E 150s, and sew through the open hole of the next dagger. Repeat this stitch to the end of the row (d–e). End the working thread and tail.
Finishing
1 Cut a 1½-in. (3.8 cm) piece of chain. Add 8 in. (20 cm) of thread to one end of the beadwork, and exit an end
pearl. Pick up a wire guard, and slide an end link of chain into it. Sew through the end pearl again. Retrace the thread path through this connection, and end the thread. Repeat this step to attach a 3-in. (7.6 cm) chain to the other end of the necklace. 2 Cut a 2-in. (5 cm) piece of wire, and make the first half of a wrapped loop at one end. Slide the end of the short chain into the loop, and complete the wrap. String a pearl onto the wire, and make the first half of a wrapped loop. Slide the clasp into the loop, and complete the wrap. 3 Work as in step 2 to begin a wrapped loop and attach it to the end of the long chain. String a pearl and the top hole of a dagger. Make a wrapped loop, capturing the dagger in the loop and leaving enough room to attach a few dangles above the dagger. 4 On a head pin, string a few beads as desired. Slide it onto the wrapped loop above the dagger, and complete the wrap. Repeat to make two more dangles, varying the beads as desired. w
loosen up Keep the tension easy or the beadwork will ruffle.
b a c
d
e
FIGURE 5
To brush up on the basic techniques referenced in this project, go to www.BeadAndButton.com/basics.
February 2015 9
rystal SWAROVSKI C able Elegance rd o ff A , le ty S Top
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BEAD WEAVING
Tuscan tiles
Shaped beads add texture to this mosaic-tile bracelet. designed by Sandie Bachand
© 2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.
Difficulty rating 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo bead 4 mm glass pearl, color A
knot
Materials green bracelet with 8 components 7½ in. (19.1 cm) with clasp
4 mm glass pearl, color B FIGURE 1
3 mm glass pearl 2 mm glass pearl b
110 seed bead, color C
a
110 seed bead, color D 150 seed bead, color C 150 seed bead, color D
c
d
FIGURE 2
c e b
a d
• 64 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (opaque olive) • glass pearls - 29 4 mm color A (Swarovski, vintage gold) - 8 4 mm color B (Swarovski, Bordeaux) - 32 3 mm (Swarovski, vintage gold) - 32 2 mm (dark sienna, www.beadsgonewild.com) • 110 seed beads - 1 g color C (Toho PF557, galvanized starlight) - 1 g color D (Miyuki 457, metallic dark bronze) • 150 seed beads - 2 g color C (Toho PF557, galvanized starlight) - 1 g color D (Miyuki 457, metallic dark bronze) • 1 14 x 9 mm two-strand oval filigree tab clasp (gold-plated, Fire Mountain Gems, #H20-4516FY, www.firemountaingems.com) • Fireline 6 lb. test • beading needles, #12 purple/black bracelet colors
FIGURE 3
1 On 1 yd (.9 m) of thread, pick up a 3 mm pearl and a color C 110 seed bead four times. Tie the beads in a ring with a square knot, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the beadwork to exit a pearl (figure 1). 2 Pick up a color D 150 seed bead, a SuperDuo, a color D 110 seed bead, a SuperDuo, and a D 150. Sew through the pearl again to form a loop, and continue through the next C 110 and pearl (figure 2, a–b). Repeat three times to complete the round, and sew through the first D 150, SuperDuo, D 110, and SuperDuo added (b–c). Continue through the open hole of the same SuperDuo (c–d).
3 Pick up a color C 150 seed bead, a color A 4 mm pearl, and a C 150, and sew through the next SuperDuo (figure 3, a–b). Pick up a D 150, a 2 mm pearl, and a D 150. Sew through the next SuperDuo (b–c). Repeat these stitches three times to complete the round (c–d). Do not pull too tightly — make sure the piece stays flat. Sew through the beadwork to exit the next 2 mm (d–e). 4 Pick up two D 150s, and sew through the next D 150, C 110, and D 150 in the inner ring. Pick up two D 150s, sew through the 2 mm your thread exited at the start of this step, and continue around the outer ring to the next 2 mm
• 2.5 x 5 mm SuperDuo beads (525032, pastel Bordeaux) • 4 mm glass round druks, matte black (in place of color A 4 mm pearls) • 4 mm glass pearls, color B (Swarovski, white) • 3 mm glass pearls (Swarovski, white) • 80 seed beads (Toho 147, Ceylon opalescent cream; in place of 2 mm pearls) • 110 seed beads, color C and D (Toho 282, gray/gunmetal lined) • 150 seed beads, color C and D (Toho 81, metallic hematite) • toggle clasp
Online Beading Basics www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
• ending and adding thread • square knot
February 2015 12
c b
a
d
a
b
c
FIGURE 4
e a
FIGURE 5
d c b
FIGURE 6
(figure 4, a–b). Repeat these stitches three times to complete the round (b–c). Sew through the beadwork to exit a C 110 in the inner ring (c–d). 5 Pick up a color B 4 mm pearl, sew through the C 110 on the opposite side of the inner ring, and then sew back through the B 4 mm and the first C 110 (figure 5, a–b). Sew through the unit to exit an A 4 mm (b–c).
face up
Make sure the clasp faces the same way as the center pearl, which sits on top of the unit. Also, as you stitch the remaining units, make sure the center pearls are facing up.
6 Use the working thread to attach half of the clasp: Pick up a C 150 and an A 4 mm twice, and then pick up a C 150. Sew through the A 4 mm your thread exited at the start of this step and the next
FIGURE 7
C 150 and A 4 mm (figure 6, a–b). Pick up a D 110, and sew through one clasp loop (b–c). Sew through the beadwork to exit the adjacent A 4 mm (c–d). Attach the other clasp loop in the same manner (d–e). Retrace the thread path through the clasp connections. End the working thread and tail. 7 Repeat steps 1–2 to begin a new unit. To connect the new unit to the previous one, work as in step 3, but sew through the A 4 mm opposite the clasp connection (figure 7). Complete the unit as in steps 3–5. 8 Continue making and attaching units until you have a total of eight units or until the beadwork is the desired length. Repeat step 6 to attach the other half of the clasp. w
Sandie Bachand has been a frequent contributor to papercrafting publications for over a decade. She came to beading after curiosity compelled her to take a class at a local bead shop. She shares a blessed life in north Georgia with her loving husband and two SuperDuo-obsessed kitties. Please contact Sandie through Bead&Button magazine.
open up
Make sure both holes of all SuperDuo beads are unobstructed before use.
February 2015 13
CROSSWEAVE
Smooth spikes
bracelet
Create a dimensional bracelet using baby spike beads for an edgy but elegant look that works up quickly. designed by Gail Wing
© 2015 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher.
Difficulty rating
Materials gold bracelet 7 3/4 in. (19.7 cm)
bb
c
a cc
b
aa 5 x 8 mm spike bead, color A
FIGURE 1
5 x 8 mm spike bead, color B a
cc
cranberry bracelet colors
bb
3 mm bicone crystal 110 seed bead
b
aa c
150 seed bead crimp bead FIGURE 2
Base
1 On 1 yd. (.9 m) of beading wire, string nine 110 seed beads with one wire end, and cross the other wire end through the last 110 added (figure 1, points a and aa). Center the beads on the wire. 2 Work in crossweave stitch: On each wire end, string two 110s, a 150 seed bead, a color A spike bead, and a 150. With one wire end, string a color B spike bead, and cross the other wire end through it (a–b and aa–bb). Make sure the beads are still centered on the wire. 3 On each wire end, string a 150, an A, and a 150. On one wire end, string a B, and cross the other wire end through it (b–c and bb–cc). Repeat these stitches for the desired length of the bracelet minus 11⁄2 in. (3.8 cm) for the clasp.
• 48 5 x 8 mm baby spike beads, color A (satin 24k gold plated) • 23 5 x 8 mm baby spike beads, color B (silky gold iris) • 46 3 mm bicone crystals (crystal vitrail medium) • 1 g 110 seed beads (Toho 509, higher metallic purple/green iris) • 1 g 150 seed beads (Toho 509, higher metallic purple/green iris) • 1 snap clasp • 2 6 mm jump or split rings • 1 crimp bead • flexible beading wire, .012 • Fireline 6 lb. test • beading needles, #11 or #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose, flatnose, and/or bentnose pliers • wire cutters
Tighten after crossing through each B, and make sure all the spikes are pointing upward. 4 On each wire end, string a 150, an A, a 150, and two 110s. On one wire end, string a crimp bead, and pass the other wire end though it (figure 2, a–b and aa–bb). 5 On one wire end, string eight 110s, and pass through the crimp bead again to form a loop. String the other wire end though the 110s just added, and pass it through the crimp bead. Tighten the beadwork. 6 Crimp the crimp bead. Pass each wire though the nearest two 110s (b–c and bb–cc), and trim the wire close to the beads.
• 5 x 8 mm baby spike beads, color A (cranberry agate) • 5 x 8 mm baby spike beads, color B (chalk bronze lumi) • 3 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, Indian pink) • 110 seed beads (Miyuki 4211, light pewter duracoat) • 150 seed beads (Toho 262, gold-lined crystal) black bracelet colors
• 5 x 8 mm baby spike beads, color A and color B (black) • 3 mm bicone crystal (Preciosa 1011, labrador 2X; www.fusionbeads.com) • 110 seed beads (Miyuki 4211, light pewter duracoat) • 150 seed beads (Toho 21, silver-lined crystal)
Online Beading Basics www.BeadAndButton.com/basics
• crossweave • crimping • ending and adding thread • opening and closing jump rings
February 2015 15
FIGURE 3
Edging and clasp
1 Center a needle on 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, and add the doubled thread to the end of the beadwork between the crimp and the first A spike, with your thread exiting the A. 2 Pick up a 3 mm bicone crystal, and sew through the next A (figure 3). Repeat this stitch for the remainder of this edge of the bracelet. Sew through the beadwork at the end of the bracelet, and repeat the stitch along the edge. End the thread. 3 Open a jump ring, and attach the loop at the end of the bracelet to half of the clasp. Repeat at the other end of the bracelet. w
To brush up on the basic techniques referenced here, go to www.BeadAndButton.com/basics.
Gail Wing has been working in the retail beading business for more than 13 years, meeting other beaders and helping them create beautiful beadwork. She has always been in the art world exploring different crafts but loves beads and the way they feel, the colors, and the challenges of designing with them. Contact Gail in care of Bead&Button.
February 2015 16
