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NO. 75
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.95
EDITOR'S
june, 1991
No. 75
COLUMN
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Sawdust Editor Donald B. P.,...bke Oe
inct....Ted KnIIjeek Managing EdIt.". Dou~ (.. Hicl'" J"",.> ~1. Dolan Richard S. P"'_ (,,,,rdon Goippe Proj-.'d OelJIp....r KeD Munktl lliUSlnloN>D.. id KreyIing CaryChriste~n
Rod Stoakes Chris GI....... 1ri Dirk Ver Steeg Kurt Schull%
CirculalionOirec;lJ>rIJzBred.eson SubscriptionMBnager Sandy &um :-r""...tBndSales Kent A. Bu.kton Grophlcs Director Jon Snyd~r Projo.'CI SuppUos kslit Ann Gemhart UndaJones Wa.rcl1ouse J~ carson, Supv, GlorinSh_n RolUlld Long
Dnvid StoUI C~Qml...SI,_1"Vi.ce-Mgr. UncL'l ~torrow CustomerSenice Jennie Enos
Janice. K.et$tD\'t!: C en e1I. BraJl'lOll Mi. Smith Robertll RUM!)
Jo)' Johnsen
ConlJ1lllcr Paul E. Gmy ~1dc .. pil18 Un«a O'Rourke Nt>t\\'()rk:Administrator OouAlas ~I. Udster Administrative A$bL Ch(!ryl A. Scott Sourcebook
J ITi.Jyn Pross Jelln My.....
Shop MIlD3g\.'" s.e,'e CurtL'<;
Buildil18Moiotenlll1c$~I.incs, 1A Mnt Wel.h Berkeley,CA ~fi.had D<>Ha'''In
z
A
"L~
few years ago we remodeled the old
carriage house Ihnl behind our officebuildinjl. ;';1)" weusetheground noor as a photo studio. and the upper Ooor as a
conference center In the process of remodeling, we decided 10 tearup parior the ",,
with flowers-annuals and perenn.ialsand roses. And there's. brkkwalkwayand patio area that .ig·zag. through tll~ garden 10 connect the twu buildings. So, what does all of this have to do with woodworkinll? The patic is a gnoat 1)1a!:~I() relax, But there was 110 where to ,iL So last year we built some outdoor furniture - an Adiron· dack chair, a malching seuee, and a patio table. (The photc on the cover o( IVoodsmitl, No. 69 shows this hlmilu"... jn tile patioarea in iront oftltc.;arriagc heuse.) I had all the best inlenlionsor mOvillJllhi, furniture inside last winter - bul didn't quite make it before 111('fil'S1 ""'ow \VeD. I thought. maybe thl> is a good Op' ponunlty to see how .....d .. ood turnltunweathers the winter.
It made il okay ... but the wann redwood to an unpleasantgray, Another good opponunily, Ithoughl, 10"''\' how to colortumcd
restore the color to redwood (urnitur< ''lith summer jusl around the-corner, 1'1" set to work c1eaoing the furniture "ilh TSP and oxalic acid. I hadn't dune thls before. and was frankly a link> skepdcal that this process would restore the redwood color without having 10 sand down to new wood. It turned out gre.~After refmiMing il with a mixture of spar varnish and oil, it looks like aged redwood - • deep rich red color rather than gray (more like the way cherry ages). PATIOTAIU'£' About the same lime I was workJng on this refinishing project, we started 10 g-et. batch o( requests for plans (or a patio or picnic table - usually aceompanied with the suggestion to "make it dim-rem titan the typical 2x6 (construction lumber) tablcsfound in most Slate parks." So we decided to add to our collection o( outdoor furniture with an ocllJ,gcmal patio table, \Ve ineorporat~d an easy-to-make version o( monise and lcnon joinery on this table. Basically, you create the mortise by
\Vood,mith
cuuing dadoeslntwo boards and join them logctbl'r 10 produce the mortise.
Forth. cther outdoorprojectin this issue (the (annal planltmith, 2200 Grand Ave.. Des Moines. TA50312. Ted wm send more information aboulthe job. NEXTISSI'£. TIle next issue of WoodIt'" illl .. ;uarrive in late Julyoreariy AuguSL
w.
No.75
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A
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LOOK
INSIDE
Contents ITips & Techniques
I. f4l Six tip» from fellow It'oodworker.~: L!J 11 Thi/'d Balld/il/' I1/oullting 1)
Router Bi». 2) SCLI!' Sladi' GlI(II'Ci~, :1) .d S(l/dIOI',~e Table Base. ~) Uhecking ':2'/2' ,11iters,5) Routing In J1«It iple PaRRe,~. Patio Table G) Table Is-Brackets.
IPatio Table
I f"6l1Ve built 0 ·uniqu.e octaqona! llsing two tlifferent toood« -
.....
...J. ~
/Xlge 6
table
Cal-
ifo-rni(t redwood for the fra 1M and OO,'e, and western cedarfor lire slats hI the fop.
IAccent Lamp t,""-""'-
....!..
11121 Nolhin{J /»'ightells all area like a lomp. And all need 10 make this !JOlt
...J
Aaent
Lamp is a lIIeekeluLl-I'e'l-eel'l'Il pro-
oided a source for the hardware, decoratioe sirips. and ti lump shade,
•
IShop Notes .... __
...:..
111611)Beating Shop-Built Kerfillg Jig. 2.1 Pilaf TI'(Ic/'x.il) Clalllping Solu-
...J
Accent Lamp
page
12
tiolls.~) Relllo!'ing (I Router Bearinq.
IRedwood Planter
1.
1181 pa,l't Tne detaite ot theromere ore ontu of what makes lit;,; Red uiood. Planter (/ ('lassie for the qnrde» or patio, In keflpillg with the 11'111/;1;'''111.1 lank, it'«
«ssemblei wilh tradil ionat Illo/'ti,~e and tenoll jOille'I'!/.
IJapanese Saws 1.:.
:,,:::,!~:":":'::"::"'~':"'_':'___
11241 Thel'e'SlIlo/'efoJapClII/iSeIiClII-'stholl razo II a tp It, It '110 II
..J.
1'·1t
tl'l'(
I{'(, It 0II
I(
IiII'
lise them and offi'l' f'i/l'~UII II'h it'll ,~I!III' to buy. Plus, we toke (/ look:(1I(I n'es/el'll l'el':;io)1 of (I Jaj)arw~1' SClIl',
II)
I Sawhorse.
i; ~_"":"""':"""':""
11281 ('on The results a,'e infor Ollr test. ,hid the toin.ner«
Reduuod Planter
~(tl/lhOI',~1!
...J.
are:
(I
Knock-Dount Sawhol'se, (I Foldiiu; Sawhorse, (ll1ci (I Conveniionol Sau-horse.
ITalking Shop
.........:.......:.......:...!:~__:.!:....
:
..J.
1301H(/ll' do !lOll refiuisl: outdoorfuruiIIII'e? And hall' fa prevent S/I'pped tenons toheu culling 01/ 1/11' tabte sal(~
•
1 Sources
11311 Harduiare and project su.pplle« neededfor the projects in this issue. Japanese
No, i5
SCUI),~
page 2.1
FRO
M
FELLOW
WOODWORKERS
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Tips &. Techniques THIRD HAND • I had a problem CVeJ)' time I mounicd a bit in the router at· tached to my lI'otH(.
it wouldn't drop IOf)low and bottom oulin the ccller, and two hands [or the wrenches that tighten the C(llivl To solve the problem, I used SO
an ordinary
1
BLADE GUARDS "lhird hand: see Fig. L Grasp the cutting end of the router bit in the clothespin. :-low set the clothespin on the router table with the bit in th,· COUCL Then adjust the router height until the desired amount of the bit is in the collet. And tighten down the bit, see Fig.la. lJo.,."rrl,1f R"I/II","
clothespin as a
HOlD lIT ON tAJ,Lt WITH ClOfHtSPJN
Lo"cla>llL Colottu/o
o.
• Carbide-ripped circular sa" blades are expensive so I take care to protect the It,,,(h from damage when the blade is off the
To make a guard for a 10" blade. startwith a3-footlength of
'*'" 0.0. plastic tubing,or ~,,;" O.D.lUbing [or thin kerfblades,
saw for storage or to be sbarpTIlt'11. wt;dgt:We tube in a viM" ened, To protect Uwteeth.I use and slit it open with a sharp util 3 piece of plastic tubing that I ilY knife, see Fig. 1. Now spread bought at a hardware store. refer the tube apart and slip itover Ule toFtII.2.ltcoSl
teeth. sec Fig. 2.
JOhl1 SU"tQ/u'" B tt~Jla"(I
It. Tl'Ill';·S$('r.
tHIRD HAND
• SAWHORSE TABLE BASE
CHECKING 221/2. MITERS
• I use sawhorsesfora variCty of hangers. see detail. Auach the • Ihad a hard tin'" setting the
side 01 one piece 3g"c:linSl the rip
jobs. including when I cut down 4><8sheet> ef (1Iyw(Jod. BUI the: plywood usually sags when laid across two sawhorse'S. So I devised an easy way to stop the
hangers so they11pinch thcends of the 2x4·s. Ihis way the Zx4', will SillYin the hangers without being screwed in place
miter gauge on fll)' tabl....saw to cut exactJy 2"2l! when making
fence, 1\eJ
horses. see Fig. I. The support system consists of two 6 f{'K)l2x4' ~ hung between the sawhorseson metal Zx-tjoist
[or those times when my bench the miter gaUlle on test pieces. is 100 hi,l!hand the flooris too low. Here's how. First. (.'tI1 a piece /{(II';11 ll"""ght Q[ scrap in two aITlvl'.Then. to Tr- '11(111" J\'I'U' J')i'~ell check the angle. place the long
triangle. An accurate cutcrcares a 45' angle. [)(u',d Bec«
end of the second piece tighl mitered cuts foran octagon,So I as:ain't the mitered end the developed aSY$ICm u
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MfWt GAUGi SiT_/
AT 22.)",· ANO\.i-
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.11
No. 75
4 •
• ROUTING
MULTIPLE PASSES
Theproblem with my router is grooves for a recent projI'Cl.T" Iypical of many. They have 100 do this. I routed the grooves in much play in the mechanism two 1,/4"-deeppasses. BUI when I that controls the
10 rout some
"'l'-dcep
a.
deplh of the groove. ·11,.n lav a Vi"·thick
spacer (made of Ma· sonite or plywood)
on me router table to "raise" the workpiece for a shallower depth ofcut.see Fig.fa.Nowmakethe first pass. Then remove the spacer and make the final full-depth cut, sec
~ig. 1b. By removing the spacer,
b.
fiRST PASS
SECOND PASS (<
WORKPIKf W(MU(Pl1CE
•
[0 change the depth of cut on the router before making the second passs. To make deeper groov..". use 1;\\'0 or three spacers and remove one after each pass.
you won't have
111isworked,", well, I made a permanent spacer by screwing a pair of cleats on the ends of the spacer, see Fig. I.n'l'Y overlap the ends of the router table and hold the spacer in place. 111is method also works when routing multiple "asses freehand. Just attach a spacer 10 )'our router base plate when making the- first pass.
Krill' P. Broun
De" ,!,lle,
.,fpl"
,/pm(;"
TABLE L·BRACKETS base need slots perpendicular 10 butcher-block style, solid wood table top to move independently about S4.00 for 3 36"·)ong piece, the bend. see Fig. 23. Slots in the brackets on the table ends. top. Bill [ ran into a problem of the table base. the shortest Icould buy. But the "L' brackets sold at What makes il ideal for table however, should be parallel with when I tried to find brackets to attach the table top 10the base. my local hardware store don't brackets is that there are holes the bend. see 1·;".2b. To make table brackets, cut \Vood expands and contracts allow (or any wood movement. opposite some of the slots. see across the grain "ith changes in So I decided to make my braek- Fig. I. To allow the wood to th~ sI~",1angle with a hacksaw humidilY. Since my top is made ets out of sloued steel angle. see move across the grain. the into tVl"·long segments, sec of thick solid wood. I needed Fig. L 1be hardware store sells brackets on the sidesofthe table Fig. l. '[ben screw the brackets 10the table base. To attach the top. use a screw and a washer in 1 ,2_J SlOrs.N each sial
.1 recently built a table with a
brackets that would allow
r-
nI)
it as framing for shelves, It cost
eAACKUS AUOWWOOO TOMOvt
RU88AlfJ'(UIf/pr
Cle~(,/u"d. OMo SIND IN YOU. ftPS
[£ vOU would like to share a
or
tip idea, just send it to lI'ood.miJ)., Tills and Techniques, 22QO Grand Ave.. Des
Moines,Iowa~J2.
a.
•
We will pay upon publica· SIDE aRACI(ff
NIl.
75
lNO 81lACKn
Wood.mith
tion $15 to $100 (depending (In the published length of the lip). Please incJudt an explanation and a sketch or phOIO(We11drawa new one).
5
FEATURE
PROJECT
•
Patio Table It's nor JUSt rhe shape of this Patio Table that's unique. The joinery that goes into buiWing rhe table is similar co what you'd find in an indoor table. Yet aUthe joints are made with just a table saw and a router.
•
r"fhis ratio Table isn't shaped lik!' a standard ~i;icnic table.andit's nOI buill like 011('either. Making it involves culting thre e joints; lap joints. mortise and tenons. and splined miters, Not the joinery you'd expect to findin an cutdoorproject, JOINERY.BUI Ill" biggcst dwlengc i. not in making the joints forthe base, The mainchalltnge comes in accurately culling UI('miters for dIe frame around the top, With sixteen miters to C'UI. any error gelsmullipli<'d when the frame isassembled, So the secret is 10 take your lime and make a test frame from scrap wood firsL Then. when you're done. you11have a table for outdoors that's built with the craftsmanship of indoor fumiture.
6
Stl'I'IJES. I used clear heart redwood (or the table base and top frame. White oak and cedar are good alternatives.In fact.I made the topslais
of western red cedar - they add contrast and hold down the cost, TIlt' main joinlF in the table have no hardware, they're assembled wiUI moisture-resistant glue. Keeperstripsand screwshold tht-lOpslatsin place. The top itself is secured 10 i.bebase with threaded inserts and machine bolts, (fbis makes it easy to break the table down for stOrage in the winter.) To reduce the effects of the elements in the summer, the table is finished with • mixture of sparvamish and tung oil. see Sources. page 31.
• No. 75
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EXPLODED VIEW OVERAU DIMENSIONS: 481/4''W x 29"H
c:iY"
j/
, I=~~~ SPUNE
-SLATS
CROSS ~ BRACE
• ~. ~
1J
5~5~==;::::==;:)..._:~Y --. H KEEPER STRIPS
t
ARM~ G
I
,
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r...,...~
.li.- " , \>'J~ MACHIN! 1!Ol~
NOTE:
rs ARE CUT OvtISJU. THIN TRtMMfO to Frr
...(y
$l.A
CROSS SECTION
flAT -WASHlR
a
LEG
CROSS
IRACI
FOOT ~
i
.ax I' ....fh WOODSCttlW
CUnlNG DIAGRAM
MATERIALS TOP A F,ome{8) 8 ClOSSBtoce a) C SiaI.(4)
o SIa!s(4)
E Slats (4) f SloI5(4)
G Slols(l6) II l(ee;:>elSlIips(4)
•
1 Splines(S) BASE J Armsa} K Feel(2) l tegs(4) MPods(4)
'2
1'·,x4.:!O 11?x.4·A61:.t
'\1,.2'" 9 Rgh 'II. X 2'~'12ilgh l;,. 21<& • 14Rgh '\I•• 2'-t-17 J?gh
l~x 2'~' 19RQh loll. '\Ia- d51lgh '12.6 4Rgh 1%.2~,·4? 21r',. J 42
11k.4 26+.
¥'x~.-4
SUPPUES • (4) <¥t.. Thcd Insem & 1",' Mach BoII$ .( 16) '8. 1'/,' Fh WOQOsctEolNS .(1lO) -6 x l' fhWOOdsclews (64)Brods
No. 75
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S,,,",· 60'"
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{Two
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2. -. 6(' '.,")($'"...l- %- (Two 800nf , •••
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. 11,.·x-71 ....r- 96" (S.3 Ikf~Ft., "
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Boafds:. 5.3 ad. Ft. loch)
2 A 6 t I \.I)" x st.,...• 06" (a ad.
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'2.411
S lid. Fr.loth)
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96* (5.3 ft.d_, F",
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•
TABLE TOP The lOPof the table
®fRAME
1
is an eight-sided frame joined with
o.
-.O'----~~
I"
spliced miters,
SECTION
(ooHTNlmm)
~~~~~= ~ ,. frame, a pairofimer' To strengthenthe
;
oreat" foW'op<'ning» that are later filled with the top slats.
..... " • ..:: e- :-.
11.'~;i·:"i~.
TOPFUME .~ k on II"!IOPbycullmge", • ;,.,. Startwork ..I·fram I' sections (A) from a 2x610 [OUIl" lengths of 22" Then rip these 10 finished width (4").
)1JTERl;.To check Ihal tile miler gauge is set at the exact angle, Ifirst made a series of test cuts on eighl pieces of 4"·widc scrap plywe'od. (Also.sec the lip on page 4.) Then. 10 guarantee that ail the sections "ere identical in length. I attached an auxiliary fence In my miter gaug" and clamped a stop block 10this (<,nee. Once the IC!Opieces form a perfect octagon. mil,,,.all eight sections 10IC1lg\h.S(!C Fig. I. KERFS",'II) sruxes, To strengthen the [oints, I used VZ',lhick splines,The splines fit in kerfs centered on the thickness oi the
22',,' ""'..._Ii<;""-
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on the table saw m;ing a dado blade and a special jig. sec Shop NOI"". pagc' 16. N<"xt. make {he- splines by resawing cn()u~h stock to fi1. the kerfs, Then cut Ole splines 10width and length, refer 10 Fig. ~.
..... I
~o'
--1
receive the cross braces. refer
10
WAXED PAl'1'
t s=r
,,'
•
NOTE:
UPSIOf-OOWN
ONPlTWOOO
WORKSOMAct
~~_u.-
10 within IN' "~fthe IaYOUIlines. Then I cleaned up to the lines wilh a chisel,
a.
OWE AND SCUW CROSSIaACts TO JaAME
APPtY OlUETO LAP JOfNlS
CROSS .IlACES
\
li·~·~' ·~~··~·:._~~-=l~~[~ __~:::::=~;:=~~~~~~ PlYWOOO
r-:-r---:;;;;;;;-;;;:::-----------::;::::=====;::::===;::::;::::"l cuno m
uf2x61O dU5lellgth. aod also 10 filial "idth. ILUP I,\PS. Now lay oul half·lap ioims on 4 the end. and center of ('och cross brace, see I-...J
is cot on the top of one brace and the bollom of the other • •\SS~IHLV.I assembled the lOP upside down on 8 half sheet or plywood. see Fig. 3. Spread some plastic resin glue in eacb saw kerf. then add the splines. (See page 31 for more on outdoor glues.) Clamp the frame pieces10the plywood as you work your way around the table, Then glue and screw the cross braces imo the pockets, see Fig. 3a. TRIM SPUNES. Once the glue dries. trim. the" sand the splines!lush with the inside and outside edges o(th~ frame. see Fig. 4a. '-
0,
fig. 2. Nole; TI'e ccnlerhalflap
8
,
ASS(fI(IU FItAM£
Figs. I and 3. I roughed-out these pockets using the router wilh a strnighl bit. routing ~."
To make th e c roMS braces (8). firstdry-assemble rhe frame and measure between the extremes of each pocket.Then curtwo pieces
-1'0'
HAlF lAP ts-oN lOP Of ONE ClIOSS IlIA« AND JOn'OM Of OTl4lR (-«oSS MACl
on the undcn;id{' of (our o( ihc frame sec10
3'
'=-:i
!
i 'bn ,- : NOTE:
r
• . h-
3
:-laIC: For maximum strength. orient the grain o( the spline across the joint line. I'OCKElS.TIle next step is 10CUI"pocIleIS·
tions
2',,"
ON UNGTH Of<.OSS 1AAct5
.6'~·---
~
' . rEf
(ur~FOa HAIl W'$ CQ
'...: c' :.
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~
r==: ' f
JOlt SPUNIS
'....
.'
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.__~ ~===========::::J
®CROSS BRACE
i
o~
...... -..;;~;;;..
CUT'''''>¥Iot ... , clNn...,ON Tl4OCkN["
IN FOUR........ 5(~CT1~IO~N~$~QH(~"!_
L
frame sections.see FIR. lao I CUi thesekerfs
.'"
SPUN<
SHoULD lX1'I.NO N"I'OHO IOTH.too-u OF ftAM( stCJ10HS
0'
/ SAND OR....,.._ ft.U$K 10 1NSIDt ANO OUTSrMllAMf IQGU
--1 \Xlo
No. 75
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TABLE TOP
C'-"·,r
EO
equal ",,··wide spacing between them, see FIg, 1. To determine how wide each slat should be, fiNt measure across the widest part 01the opening. (All four openings must be the same size.) Then. to alluw fornine 1Jl!"·wideJ('dPS. subtract I from thls measurement, Finally, divide this figure by cigbt to obtain the desired width olthcslats, (In myca se. 21Jl!".) Naweoough :Y~"·thickstocklorall32 slats can be cui to this finished width, refer to the Cutting Diagram on pllge 7. n,"TOROlIGH 1£.'1GTILWith thestockfor the slats ripped til uniform width. the)' can be CUtto length. To mlnimizcwaste.I started by first culling them to five differenl rough lengths. refer to pans C,[).E.F. and C; in the Materials U"on page 7 M.E.lSl'11.E .\''1" m. The procedure for cutting Ihe slats 10 finished lengUI is the same (or each of the four openings. So for each opening. fin.1 cut 3 45' miter across the outTOP SLATS side end of Ihefic.> ./"'rt~.tsial blanks. see Each 01 the four ooenlnzs contains eight Fag. 7 and the Exploded Ir.cw on page 7. NexL po:;itiorllilit slats elVer the C-JlX"nin,g slats, TIl<'slat. start oulas blanksol differing with 3 VJ;"·thi.:k temporary spacerposhioned lengths thai are individually cuI to fi~ on both sides oi each slat Now make a pencil RIP SLATSTO IIIOTII_ The top slats (C.I).E.F.G) filint" the frame openings with mark on the inside end of nil eig'" slats to
With the tOI'frame assembled. the next step isto round over the edgos. ROlNI).()I'ERS. To round over the outsidr edges of the frame. [ used a II." round-ever bit. routinll in 8 counter-clockwise direction. Slairu edges of the frame and also the tOPedges ofthe cross braces=[used a 1'' " round-overbh, routing in a clockwise direction, see Fig. 5. 1Wl8f:rS. When the top slats an' added, they're held in place by a series o( keeper stripsauached 10the underside ofthe frame. refer to I'ill_g, '111"slat. nc-';!011 • ledge rabbeted into the frame. The ledge is formed by routing a ~.·-wide rabbet olonl1the bottom inside openmgs 01the frame. see Fig. 6_ \lakt' at 1.:L'l tWlipasse. to rout !.Iw 1"deep rabbet.leaving a ~"-thick tiptosuppon the slats. see Fig. 6:1. TI,eD SQuare up the Comers with a chisel.
v.r
ROUT ,,"
5
ROUND-OVUt em 1NSIDt IDOlS
indicate where itmeets the edge oflhp cross brace, see FiK_1. Then cress-cut each slat to finished length 311he pencil mark. AAU8£rS. The slats should fil in the openings now, bUI theywon'lbe Rushwith the tap surface 01the table frame. To gel them Hush. cut rabbets on theendsoteach slat. see Figs. 8 and 9. I cut the rabbets with a dado blade on the table saw. ROt St),Ol'lillS. Now round over all fOllr tOPedges of each SL11with a """ round-aver bit in the router table, (~o!e: The bearing on the router bit has to b<- removed (or muting the rabbeted ends, S<'<' Shop Not''''. page 17.) I.NSTi\ll. 11IE ~lATS. Next, to maintain a unifunn space between the slats, I tacked them in place. 0)\" al a time. through th~ rabbeted ends. see Fig. 9, Position the WIIlporary \11" spacers between each slat as !.IIeY arc tacked down. refer to Fig, •. KF.FJ'ER Sl1!J1'S, wnen ali Ihe slats have been tacked in place. rill enough :It,"·thick stock for keeper strips (Ii) 10 a finished width or 314" •• ee Fig. 9. Then cut each keeper strip to fil. and screw them under the slots, S£,(, Fig. 10,Note: Don't glue the keeper strips ill place, Thls way it's no problem 10 replac...damaged or broken sial' later
6
.
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NOTE:
Of OUt-SIDE tOOlS
7
ROUT ~.
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SLATS
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•
TABLE BASE When the tabletopis complete. work can
I
begin 00 th~ base. 11,. base bas four legs joinl-d to crossshaped arm (top) and foot assemblies. I 'tatted b), makingtht.-nrmsand feet from three identical blanks. (rwC) of the blanks are the (eet. The third blank is rippcd in ltalfto become a pair of arms.) """b blank ismade (rom two 2x4s thnt arc glued together. sec ~lg 12.Start by planing (or resawing) one face of each 2x4 (to 1%") to provide a dean. fiat gluing surf.u:c. There's a trick to fomling the mortises iIl t•• ~ f E3<:h blank. Befcre gluilll( the planed ...."" 0 the 2x4s together, cut lI.l"-dcep notches across each faco·. _I·-lit. 11.Then. when the pieces are !!lued together. the notches form mortises. see r,g. lJa. Shop Tip.To keep the dadOt'>alignt.'IIwhilt'you·regluingupilie2x4", fil dIe mortises with k'ffll)()rat)·"1L'IlOIIS." A(terthe pieces
11
ARM/FOOT
BLANK"
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Once the blanksarecur to size.setone blank aside (for tllC arms) and continue working on the other iwo (for the feet). IIAlF lAPS. The rwo feet are joined into a
cross shape with half-lapjoints, refer to "lit.
•
17.To make identical "self-centerinn" half laps. I used the rip fcnc(' as a stop logt'mer with an auxiliary Ience screwed to the miter gauge. (Shop xote: lt's okay 10use the miter
gauge with the rip fcnc(' since you're not culling all the way tbrough the wood.) To make tbese half laps. fin;! lay out the position of a 2(\', "·widen"ICh centered on the length o( one fo••t blank. see Fog. 12/l. Then. to (,."\11 the notches. make ("'e) cuts on each piece.turning the piece end-for-end
tween the first two cuts with additional cuts. CltAlItf'ER!j. When you're donecauing the notches that form the half laps. layout and cut a decorative chamfer on the top ends of each foot. 8<'" Fi~ rs, 13and 133. Note: 111echamfers are cut with the bal(· lap notch doo-n on one foot. and Ihe hall-lap between cuts, Thisdefines tile outside limits notch "1' on the other. see Fig. 12. PADS. To keep the table (tiel dry. I glued of the notches, Then clean out the waste be-
:V,··lhkk pads (lit) to the bottom ends of each fool. see Figs. 14 and 143. ~"-"£lIBL£ FEET. 'Vith the pads in place. the feet can now be assembled into a crossshaped unit. I used plastic resin glue and clamped the two pieces together, Finally. to minimize splintering, I softened the upper edges (and also the outside ends) o( the feet with. round-over bit,
13
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No. 75
•
•
TABLE BASE
COI'.rINtI"O
ARMS
To make the arms. start by ripping the remaining glued-up blank into IWO lW'·thick pieces, Do this by fin;! ripping one w finished size. then ripping the other to match lite firs!. Note: Unless your saw can CUI 3' deep. you'll have to make LwO P3."'" 10 rip each arm. see Fig$. 15.1 and ISb. IlAl.F.1AJ'S.To cut the notches that form the half-lap joint, first lay our the position of the notch cente re>d on the lc.lIR\h of one of lite arms. SI'e Fig. IS. Then cut the notches using the same procedure as on the feet. CHA.\lFER.When thi- arms are cut 10 finished si7'<:. CUIa 45' chamfer across the ends of eacl ••• m. J\gain. orient the chamfers in relation to the center hnlflaps. see rig'. IS. ASSEMBI.E & ROUND O\IF.R. Now glue and clamp the arms together at the lap joint Then complete the arms by routing a V,' round-over on the lower edges, see fig 17. LlGS To make lite ~
•
15
alP IWMINJNG UM}FOOT BlANK TO (:AlAn TWO ARMS
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start by cutting four leQl!lhs
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of2x6 10finished dimensions, see ~ig. IS. TENos".Mter the legs are cut 10 si1.e. the tenonscan beCUI on eachendofthe legs.see Fig. 16. (Note: Since the arms and feet are different thicknesscs.thetenonsat the top of Ihe legs are a different length than the tenons at the bottom of the legs.) To l'UL the tenons, I used a dado blade to make a sh(lUhl~r cut on each piece wilh the end of th~ h'l( butt<'d 10the rip fence. Then 1 made multiplepasses complete the tenon. ROtfNU·OI'ERS, Before assembling the base,rout a 1'." round-overon the edges (bul not the tenons) of all four legs. see Fig. 17.
DRIlL ~ •• SHANK HOlES
17
FO. MOUNTfNG tOP
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base. first glue th~lcgs.oneala time. intothe mortises in the feet assemblr, sec Fig. 17. Then glue the ann aSSl'mbly onto the top ends of the legs.
AnACH
THE TOP
""ath the table base assembled. the table top can beattached to the base. COl'NTERIlORf.$.>\l'm S1~\.\1\ 1l0LES. Begin
bydnlling aceu nterbore and shank hol~ near lilt' chamfered end and centered on the width of each arm. see Figs, 17and 18. nnlF.AllEI> h"'SERTS.Now positiou the lOP
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ROUT ~~.. ROUNO-QVEIl ON AU (oots OF lEGS
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and base upside down and center the arms on the cross braces. Make a punch mark through each shank hole to indicate Ihe 1
•
Then drill holt>
install the threaded Inserts in the cross
brace s, (Forsourcesofbollsand Inserts, see page 31.) Finally. anach the base to the top with r"u;"x II'.!" machine bolts. see Fig. lSa.
No. i5
I!AS( ARM
arossluCU
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11
WEEKEND
PROJECT
Accent Lamp There are three challenges to building this lamp - getting the cord through the post rapeling a short piece and adding decorative strips - and all have surprisingly simple solutions. I
I
•
A
ny lim" you build a lamp with a post, you're f.,ctd with the question of how to
I!ct the electrical cord through the post. Instead of using ao extra long drill bit. or drilling a hole from both ends, Iglued up the po,1 from several pieces and I<..ft a chana e 1 in the center for the electrical cord. TAPER. Another challenge with this projo!cl W,", to lind a safe way to cut a taper 011all (our sides of the short post. To do this. I came up
with a surprisingly simple jig that auto maticall y sets the taper - und is safe to use. It's just. square block of wood with an off-center dowel
((or more information. sec page 13)
12
After I made the origin.llampout of walnut with brass strips (as shown in the I,hulo above). we made severa! variations u$ing different woods: oak and mahogany-s-and decorative strips made out of a variety of metals and contrasting woods. t'~I~H. To prot ec·t both the lamp and the d•..,_ orative strips, 1used a spray can of Defl Satin Clear Wood Finish and sprayed ",I two coats, HARDWARE.. You should be able to purchase most of uie hardware. the electrical supplies and the lamp shade at a local lighting store, 0: W/md.mill, I'mj,et SU/lIJlie. Is offering a hardware kit and the shade. see page 31 WOOD.
\XIoodsmuh
• No. 75
•
POST I began work on the lamp by making the tapered post, Insieadof using solid stockand drilling a hole the length of the post for the electrical cord. it's easier 10 glue up four pieces. S(>(' rig. 1.This way you can build in a channel Cor the electrical cord.
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tL'T po;.'T !'IF-ellS. Star! by ('lllling tWO POSI sides (1\) from ¥.".Ihkk stock 10 a
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POST SIDE
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.... 10"
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fini$hedwidlhof2" and rough l.ngthoC 10". 'Ire rig. 1.Theil. cut twopost spacers (B) from \!'t'·thick stock 10 the same It-nllth as the sides but only 'V."·wide.These spacers POST SPACER are sandwiched between the sides (/\) to ---.--(!) provide the channel for the cord. This also will create a POSIthat starts out as a perfecl square. see Fig. Ia, r--.-==~:::----' eWE-UP POST.The Irick in gluing up the TAPER JIG 3 post is assembling alltill' piecesso the edges 1-_2_J arc flush, This forms the square channel (or the cord in the center. To do Il,is. I inserted a short length of Vz" dowel in each end as a temporary spacer. Then I glut'tl and clamped the sides and sparers together a$ a unit, see Fig. 1a, Afler the glue dries. cui the post to a finished length of9\1". TAPERJI\.. The next Slep is 10CUIa taper NOTE, onallfour sidesofthepcst. Todothis,l made ROTAn POS1'llIID' ~ a simple jig 10hold one end of the lamp POSI &ElWitN CIlT$. JfGPOsmON away from the rip (cnc~ as it's fed through OOESN'TC_ the blade. refer to Fig. 3. Thejia i$ju.la2" x 2" block nhcssme size as the end ofthe lamp pcsn. see Fig. 2 The trick is to mount a V:!" dowt"l()ff·l"P"/t'rol1lilc block 10create an angle 10taper the p
DOwn
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,
2"
2"-~~
a.
ft.'11CC. you"1Ineed toclampor screw an auxiliary fen", 10 II",rip fence first so the post is
supported through the entire cut.) Once the saw is set up. CUi Uw fiTSllapet. (For M(,'ly. I used 1Ipush block. see Fig. :i.) Since this jig works orr the dowel in the endofthe posi.allyou have tud .. isrolnl('th,' POSIbetween cuts, So aft('r making the firsl rul. rotate the post 90' and make another cut. (Note; Do 111)' rotate the ji~ between cuts, Alwayskcepthcedge nl the jiglhal's farllt''''l
•
away from the-dowel againsllh. rip fence.) DAJ)()£$ }-'ORINlAY. Once a taper is cut Oil ali iour sides of the post. CUIshallow dadoes for ioL~l'strips near the bottom. I did this on the table sawwnh a V.·' dado blade, see Fig. lao Use the rip fence as a slop by selling il 'hi' away from the saw blade. '111." angle the miter gauge 10 match the angle of the tapered post. and push the post over the blade. sec fiK 4. Shop NOJe:Since thislsnota through CUI. it's "kay to use the rip fence.". stop.
No. 75
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NOTE, ANGU MrrtR GAUGE. so 10TH rOGES Of POST 'OUCH
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FEN« ATeO'M'OM
SUPPLIES
MATERIALS OVERAll DIMENSIONS (WITH SHAl>E) ll'W x 19"Hx 12"0 A Post Sides (2) • x2 . 9'.-2 & PostSpocel$ro
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11
LAMP BASE Once the lamp POStls complete. work can
On
begin theplatform base. The up (rom a !!tl"·thick thatbase sitsi
frame, reft'r to Fig. II. Both the platform and frame are made by joining four mitered pieces to form squares. Instead of mitering short pieces to (orm the squares, it's "aJerto Sian.with longer blanks, CtTRI.\NKS. First, cut a blank for the pial' form pieces (S('C Fig. 5). and a blank for the frame pieces. see Fig. 6. Mm:R S£T·l P. After cutting these blanks to size, cut four mitered pieces off of each blank. To do this, I first.screwed a long fence to the milergau~ losuppon thepiecc>. Then I st~the mlter gaUl(C 10 45' and clamped the blank to the fence so it wouldn't "creep" as ~c miter is cut. New miter nne end or each blank. see Step I in I"tg 7 PlATI'tlRM PIELa To cut the platfonn pieces (C), measure &W' (rom the mitered pointofthd>lankandnlakeamark. Then align the mark with the blade and clamp the blank to the f.·n,'p, see Step 2 in 1·-!g.7. You can cut four mitered piecce'S to identical lengths by using the rip fence as a step • see SIcp2 in fill. 7. Clamp a block W the rent'C, and then position the fence W the block bulls aJ(ainst the pointed end of the blank. (The block keeps the cut-offs from binding.) After making the cut. unclamp the blank, lum it over. slide the poiruagainst the block.
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NOTE:
BUrP' WIlL cur THtouGH
•
aoTTOM
HAll- OF 'ENCI
and make unother cut, 'Iheo repeat this-procedure (qrthf' remaining pieces, CL1' ~'R.o\.\1£PIECES. To cut the frame
pieces (D) to length. make a mark 7" from the mitered point,Then repeauhe same procedure uSNIforthc Illatfonn Iliccl'5. GU F.·tl'. The next step is to glue up th~ pieces 10 form the platform and Irarne squares. (For more on this, see page 17.) I'\ATFORM I'RO~'lJo:'Next. an angled cut is made on the face (If the platform to "raise" the center section with V4"ohighshoulders. while also leaving a V,"lip at the base. To do rhls, firsl mljuslthe blade for a V.". deepcut, and rut kerfs til (ann ihe shoulders oflht>raised center section,see Fig. S. Tosupport the pillt(nrm (ortheanJlil>dcut. IU5<·d an auxilial')' renee, S!'<: Fig. 9. Sci the blade I ilIG· high. lilt it to nn II' angle, and move 111<' rip renee \I," {rom the blade. TC\'t this cut on a scrap piece, and then cut Ul" platfonn. see ~iJl.9. (Save the 1""1piece for clamping the decorative strips later.) SafelYNote: TIle narrow edge 01the platform can slip lmo the o!><,ningalong the blade. TOpreYl."OlUli., I made a wooden (zero ctearaneel insert that fils tight to the blade. ROI Nil O\ER FtIA~IF..As [or the bast frame. rnund over the top edg(' with a \14" round-over bit. see Fig. 10. ASSE\llll.Y. To assemble the base. flr.;1 sere" the frame to the platform. see fIr:. 11. Then glue on four I"·,;qual'('feet (E).
.,'
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Woodsmllh
N.). 75
•
DECORATIVE STRIPS After the base is assembled.the next step is to cut and miter 14"·wide decorative strips. The strips fil in the dadoes in the post. and around the shoulders of the base, see Fig. 12. I chose brass {or the strips, but you could use thin suips o{ contrasting wood. see photo on Conteots page. (For sources o{ brass. see page 31.) Whether you usc wood or brass. youll need five VI6"·lhick strips. each 12".Joog.lo make one lamp. MrTERnG.Toaccuralely cut and miter the strips, I made a simple jig. The jig has a V.·· wide greovealonz the edge 10hold Ihe strip, see Fig. 13.Then One end is mitered 3145'. and a shallow kerlis CUi near the other end.
8.<\sESTRIPS.To use this jig. place 3 suip ofbrass in the groove and miter one end wnh a file. using the mitered end o( the jig as a guide {orthe file. see Fig. 13. Then hold the strip against the base ofthe lamp and mark therough Icngt)l. Since brass is ea.y to file. l cut the suip oversize (about Vs"too long). Then I mitered the cut-orr end with a file. Note: Sneak upon the final length by periodically checking Ihe 61 of rhe strip againstthe base. curs STRlPS.When the fil is exact, rough up the back or the strip with sandpaper and glue it in place (see Shop NOles on page 17 for more on litis). I used an "instarn" glue 10
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Before assembling the lamp. I applied Ihe finish. I sprayed on two coats or Deft Satin Clear \'load Finish 10 the POSIand base. Ailer Ihe finish dried. I screwed the post 10 the base with two NO.8x lIr," {lalheadwoad· screws. see r,g.15b. IIARIJW;\RE.Nexi comes the hardware. (IV()()(/"",itil P>'())trtSl'pplil'. is offering a complete hardware kil for lhis lamp. see Sources on page 31.) To install ihe hardware. start by screwing Ihe threaded base o{ the tighl socket onto the straighl fixture pipe. sec iCIg.lSa. Theil. slide the pipe through the "harp" and the ll.1i·~iameler check ring and slide this assembly into the square hole in the post. see Fig. 15. Next. use a Ilatwasher.lock washer. and nullo secure the f~~lure pipe 10 the base, see Fig. ISb. \\1RING.The nextsteprstcuiread the wire through the pipe and up lnto the base orthe socket Then 10 provide strain rcllcf for the cord. tie a knot near the cut cnd of the wire. Now separate the IwOwires and strip V'z" of the insulation {rom each wire. see Fig. ISa. Next. wrap a wire around each O{the socket screws and tighren the screws. see Fig. lSa. To complete the assembly. push the light SOCkClinto its base so the tabs lock in place. Now add the lighl bulb and shade. f'mally. before you Ium the lamp 00. make sure \0 plug it in.
14
STlUP ~
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IoIIT"JIG
IltMn(.ON
IN.'''
glue on the strips (see Sources. page 31) Continue fitting and gluing on one suip at " time until the trim on the base is complete. 1'("'''S'I'R.lPS. Since the post is tapered.th ,. inlay strips that fit in the dadoes of the IlOst require a compound miter. To make this compound miter, first cut each suip 10 length and file a miter on both ends. Then place" strip on Ih~JigS()\lle.uip is 5li~hlly skewed (about 2') and refilo the angle to a compound miter.see rIg. 1·1. Nt'x\.lum the strip end-for-end. skew it in the upposite direction, and 61eanothert'Om· pound miter. 1)0 this (or loath of the posi suips and glue them into Ihe dadoes.
PUSH otJTtR SUMlNTO
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•
Shop Notes KERFING JIG With thai much blade ex- mitered frame sections, The Ii"" raise the saw blade to the building the frame (0" the tOPof posed I wanted my hands in a other two parts of th" jig are desired depth, Thenposhlon the th~ Patio Table (page 6). The safe position. bUI
-
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Glut PlYWOOD SlOES TO fA.AM[
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l ROUTER BEARING TRACKS • Alter rounding over the Patio Table frame (J);lge9).1noticed a shallewtrnck" leil by 11ll'muter bit bearing. see Fig. I. \ line of
I'R~'YE»'TINGA TKACK. 0 ne y,
handheld router i~to use an edge guide. see ~ig. 2.The wide edge distributes the pressure more evenly so the bearing
wood fibers in the ,;urI redwood had been compressed, I'v{: seen this on otherwoods. dCX'sn'l press into the wood. and on plywood with softwood :-':Q(': When usi~ an edge inner pi...... (Somctilll{,s it's not guide. adjust the llUide SO it's obvious until finish is applied.) flush with the bearing.
1
To steam out a bearing track. PUt~ledampclolhonlh~aff~ track, there's a simple way to re- area of the workpiece. Then, wiUl move it And it doesn't take a 101 a medium heat settting. slowly ofextra sanding, either 1110 the iron over the cloth. Keep th(' clorh damp and Restore the compressed wood fibers to their original shape by check the wood often to avoid usingatlampcloth and ahot iron. scorching, Then, once the track see Fig. 3. Steamcauses the libel's b raised, sand Ih" workpiece smooth as you normally would, to swell back 10 surface level. RE}IO\'II'G A TR.~C" I( )''''''
can't avoid a router bearing
_ClOTH'SIRON
3
WORJ(PIfC(_
HOTlRONOH
DANoPCLOJH RAlS(S COMPltl$$(I)
,(eras
tOOl GUl'Df DlSTRllUTH
ltAalN
16
DAMP ClOT'H
PRlSSUIt(~E rvtNlY 'rtlAN PilOt lu.RrNO
No. ;5
f
•
•
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CLAMPING SOLUTIONS .1 came across some Interesting solutious 10 a couple Qf damping problems that WP experienced while making the Accent Lamp shown on page 12_ CLAMPING THE BASE The firsl problem was how to keep the small mitered piece, of the [ra11lc and platform square
• \
when gluing up. To solve 111;•. I made a simple form, see Fig. I By repositioning the cleats, it can be used for both the frame and platform. ~1.<\K.:f'C)R't. To make this form, draw an accurate square Ill. same silk as the frame to be clamped Oil the plywood base. Then CUI fourdcats to fitaround Ille square.Next. position three
of the cleats Ilush with the lines and screw them in place. cu t;·uP. To glu~·up ure assembly. apply Illuc to aU [our pie<'.e!land set them in the form. 111en. either screw or clamp the fourth dent in place. CLAMPING THE STRIPS The second problem was how 10
clamp the deceratiw strips onto tile shoulders of the lamp base during glu{.-up. see Fig. 2. Since ure shoulders arc only V." wide. h's tougilgetting aclamp 10 hold. CIA" N~G BU)CK.So I used a CJ...\.\lP S'I1llPS. To usc the blocks. apply glue 10 one strip teSI piece I'd CUI"""U""S
FQAMr
ts CLAMP(D
SQUAU WHEN 'OURTH C1.f.AT is ADO£O
33. Repeauhls procedure fortiit' remaining three strips. To clamp the lower strips. trim the blocks narrower. This transfers the clampingpressure 10 their luwer,·dges. set' Fig. 3a.
-.
3
2
1
I nJM SCAAPS TO TRANSllll PUSSURr TO lOWUt SHIPS
REMOVING
A ROUTER BEARING
Withoul abearing. you haveto bit helps llUide the bil along the use an edge guide or a router edge: of a workpiece. But some- table with " fence 10 guid~ Uw tioll'S the bearing gels in the way. work. 011the l"'atioTable .13Is. I As 1 was building the Patio used the rouicr table.
.The pilot bearing on a router
Ilut there was another prob-
Table. I needed 10round 0\.." tile rabbeted ends of the lOP slats.
lem -the throat openingon the
BUI the bearing prevented the
fence is too wide for the slats. So
the workpiece. sec ~ig.I. Itt:~tll\'EBEAAh'iG. So hook the bearing off the bit by removing Ille screw that holds it in plat-e, see Fig. 2. Note: On some router bits you C(III~,remove the bearing-il hcldsthecunerin place.
get hung up in the opening.
cuner from making contact with the comer of the workpiece can
•
No. 75
1
~\lXIUARY I'ENCE.To gel
2
around this problem. 1 made an auxiliary fence from Masonite with a smaller opening. Then I clamped this to the router table fence, see rag. 3. Woodsmith
SURING
AtMOvto
17
OUTDOOR
PROJECT
•
Redwood Planter This versatile redwood planter fits into almost any garden or patio arrangement. There are four design options to build, and each has an adjustable shelf to accommodate plants of differen.t sizes.
• O
ne oflhe most inlerestingthingsaooulthedesign of this planter is the options. The basic planter is a square unlt, Building one that's twice as wide gives il a different look. And by adding one with longer legs, you can create an attractive grouping (see photo above). AD1t1SL1BLE SlIELF.
Another nice thing about this
planter is something you can't even see from the outside -the sheIL Il'sadjustable like the shewesin some bookcases. so you can change the height of the sbelf to fit different-sized polled plants. This means the same planter can show offshort plants in the spring and taller plants in the summer. Also. the slab that make up the shelf have W1PSbetween them. So rain watercan't accumulare in the bortom and harm your plants. Or the planter. CONSl'RI'cnOS. Since a planter has 10 be strong and stand up to the weather. I used water-resistant plastic
18
resin glue in the mortise and tenon joints that connect the legs and ralls. For the sides. I did SOll1ethingdif("rent. The side slats have to be able 10 expand and contract with changes in humidity, so Ihey aren't glued in place. They're held between the ralls with tongue and groove joints. \\'01)1).1 builnhe planter out of redwood. II's an aurae tive. straight-graioed wood that's resistant 10 rot, But there are other woods, like western red cedar and northern white cedar. thai also stand up well to the weather. Or you could build one of fir or pine, then palm it (see Details. page 32), nxrsu. To keep the redwood looking good throughoulthe year. I finished it with a combination of spar varnish and lung oil.Th is seal. the wood and allows • light sheen to build lip. For more on this finish, see Sources. page 31.
\V()(x!>mitb
• No. 75
•
EXPLODED VIEW OVlRALL DIMENSIONS:
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MATERIALS
C Side SIoIs( 16)
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CUnlNG DIAGRAM U" (31..'1-"31..,"). 96- (10.614. ft., b: Z2JZ'2< z lZZJZlll; ztZZZ%ltZ;"""'tZ1 'm::z&,-r~;;~Zt;;;)I7W{?Z01 2.4
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SUPPUES
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LEGS When I bought the
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as sltaighl as possible. you11nccd 10 estab-
4x4 redwood POSIS lish two Oat sides that meet at a 90' comer. to make the legs. I SQUi\IlE. FlAT SIDF.S.To do this. begin by ..~ learned something placing the Oauest sideof each piece against the rip fence. Now trim a narrow strip off the about redwood 4x4 POSISare rarely opposite side (A). see lOPdrawing in F'1g. I. kiln dried. So they're (Because the post. are too thick tocut all the likely to be wei on way through in one pass, you 11have 10 turn the workpiece end.fer-end and finish trimthe inside. WET RF.O\\'OOO. \\'orking with very we! ming the first sllip wilh a second pass.) Nexi. 10 cui side (8). position side (A) wood can be a real problem. So 10 avoid having the llOsts twist or bend as Ihey dried down on the table and rip off another narrow strip, again in two passes, see second draw ou~ I dealt wilh the llO.LS in three stages, l'ir$l. 10 speed up the drying lime. I jug in fig. I. Side (A) and (13.) should now be trimmed an <'qualamouru (V." 10 W') of dry flat and 90' to each other. Ct'l'TO I'1NISIlED SIZE.Nowyou're ready wood offall (our faces, Then I rough (''UI each leg 2" longer than the finished length 10 10 cut the leg to finished thickness. To do this. set the rip renee 2V.· (rom the blade. allow (or some checking on lite ends. NC.Xl.I put the wood aside for a lew days. Then. with side (A) against the fence. rip a (Don'l PUI il out in the sun. or burry the sllip (rom side (e). see third drawing. rig. I. Then roll the leg one last time. making a process -Ihal'n create more problems.) ",nally. J lrimmed all lite posts aeain.this pass with side (B) against the fence. see timeto finaldimensions. To make the pieces fourth drawing in Fig. 1.
With the blanks CUi square. the legs can be trimmed to finished length. see Fig. 2.
Once the legs are cut 10final size.layoul the locations 01 four mortises on each leg. see Fig. 2. (II helps 10 mark the top of each leg and make allyour measurements from that end.) Then, using the drill press. J bored the mortises VII;" deeper than the desired length of the tenon. see rlg.3a. 'Thisway.the tenon won't bottom out in the mortise. and the assembledjoim willpull tOIlNhertiJ!htly. TOdo 11Iil>.first drill a VI hole at each end of Ihe mortise. see ~ig. 3. (I used a special mortising bit. see page 31.) Then drill a series 01overlapping holes in between the end holes. Now "mill out" the mortise by $liding the workpiece from side 10 side, see Fig. 4. \Vhen uie morusesarcdrilled out, square up the ends and clean up the sides of the morrises with a chisel. see Fig. 5. You can leave the ends round. buuheuyou will have to round off the edzes of the mating tenens . IA\'OUT A.'iDCl T1lIEMOlmSES.
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LEGS ...'-'"II
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OF.CORAl1\'£ CVI'S. After cleaning up the ~ ~ mortises 1 made a series of decorative cuts Onlhe legs. Begin by rutting a sial around the top end of the legs. This isaclually a%" .....t.: dado thar's cut around alIfOUrsides.(p / ~..." To make this continuous dado. first ser ,..,.....:;;> ./'' your dado blade 10CUI II." deep, TIleD posl- ~ lion the rip fence 1~" (rom the blade. see Fig. 6a. Sbop NOIC:Using an auxiliary fence >,' on your miter gauge will give you better control 01 the leg. and also prevent chipout as '0. you cuI Ill. dadoes, S<.'<1 Fig. 6. Wilh the end of the leg butted to the fence. CUI the dadoes on an four sides 01each leg. ~WI)I)£I)CflA"ftER.
The next step is
table. stopped chamfer Utere. the topI cut andthis bottom of the legs on Ute 100. router Stan by setting the height o! the chamfer bilsoi"sr;,~G·abovelherOUlerlablc.seeFil!. &I. Then a1i~'I1the face of the fence so it's Hush with the bearing on the bit To indicate the extremes of the slopped chamfer. I mad" lWO marks on each leg.One mark (S" from the lOp end) indicates where 10 plung~ the rOUI~rII)stan the chamfer. The second mark (ISVi' from the top) indicates the Slopping point Then I made a reference mark: 011 the router fence 10indicate the centerpoint of the router bit, Now tum on the router, and with a pivoting motion. plunge the leg against the fence so the first mark on the leg lines up with the mark on the fence. see fig. 8. Then slide the Iej!10the lefLWhen the second mark Onthe leg lines up \Ooilhthe reference mark on the fence. SLOP and pivot th~ leg away from the fCJ1c~.SCt FiIl.9. TOP CH,\\lt·ERS. Once the corner chamfe rs are completed, )'OU can CUI the chamfers on the lop end of each Iej!.This is aJ$Oa :"lb"·widf·cllamfc:rsoy()u don', have to th,mlle'lhe router bit. Fig. lOa. To make cuning the sec chamfers more accurate.lusedaS" X 8"""uarepiecc of'l""'lhkk ply'\\'cw.rl as
3
push block, SRi'" '-:-"IJ.!, )()
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push block keeps the legs square 10 the
•
routertable fence.and helpspreventchipout on lite back edge or the cui. Now cut the chamfers Onthe top of each leR.holdingthe leg finnly 10the router table f.nce and plywood push block. Again. f
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rout the decorative "stopped" chamfers on the outside corner oi each leg. see Fig 7. (No te: TIle outside comer is the comer formed by the sides without mortises.) You could MIt this chamler wiUt a handheld muter. But since I was going to chamfer
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SIDES Once the legs are cemplete. you can start work on the sides. Each side eonsists of two rails and four slats held in place with longue and groove joints. --I RAIL"-I started by resawing (from 2x4 stock) enough pieces for the railJ! (B) to I V4"thick.Thcnt"Uteighl rails to final width and Iength, see Fig. 11. "'_"O~~.The rails havea I"·long tenon on each end tofitthemortises in the legs. Toset up the saw, posltien 1111'rip fence as astopso the outside edge of a dado blade is I" from the fence, see Fig. 12a. Now, to create 3 centered tenon, make a pass on each face of a piece of scrap rail stock. Slowly sneak up on the final thickness of the tenon until itju$1 fusthemortise.Then the tenons can be cut on the rails by making a series ofpasses over the dado blade. To create shoulderson the top and bouom edges. re-set the height ofthe dado blade to \14". Then stand the workpiece on edge and make a series of passe" over each edge. TO!o;Gt.ES. Once the tenons are cut on the rails. the saw can be set up to cut a tongue along one edge. This tongue hold. lite slats in place, sec Fig. 13a.The V,"-thkk tongue iso(f«nteronthethickncsso(th"rnil-it's set back ~." from the face. To make thetougue.the dado blade has to be "buried' in a wooden auxiliary fence so only V4" of the blade is exposed, see Fig.H. "1"11 raise the blade lV." above the table. Now. with the Iace side onne rail down, cut one side of the tougue. see Step t. Then. lower lite blade and cut the other side. leaving a Vi'·thick tOI\l,.'Ile.sec Step 2. t'IIA~n"R TIlE RAlLS. The last step in making the rails is tochamlerlltrw ofthe four edges (,11)/ the edge closes! to the tongue). Chamfer lite orher edge 011the tongue side with the fence set back 114" from the bi~ sec Slep I.Fig. IS.For the remaining edges. align the bearing Hushwith the fence, sec Slep 2. SI;\'JS, Arter Ih. tongued rails are complete. Ih~ groc>v<.fisiR'" (C) can be made 10 6t between the rails. refer 10Fig. 13. (There arc (our slats on each side.) To determine the width o( each slat, measure the shculder-to-shouder length o( a rall (l4W') and subtract \oi" to allow for expansion. Then divide by four. (This made each of my slalS 3Vt wide. see Fig. 16.) Now cut tile slats to length to equal the distance between the mortises on th~ legs. GROOVE TIlE SI,.\TS. \Vitll tile slats CUI to size.cura V."·...idcgTOOVein the ends lO fit tile tongues on the rail•. see F'lI!. 16. (l:ote:Offset the groove %" from the fronl face, see I~g Ilia. CHAMFER. To complete the side slats. chamfer all (our edges on the (ace side.
11
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RAILS
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ASSEMBLY After aUthe pieces are cut.the plantcrcan be assembled, But first. I laid out and drilled
of the side units. then connect these by
Next, clamp the side assembly together usi~ Iwo pipe damps, see Fig. 18. Lay the assembly on the pipe clamps with the inside 1,1," holes 00 each leg (or pin supports. (acing up. This way the clamp pressure wUl Pt=
LAYOUTHOW 'OR PLN SU9POftt'S
17
18
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NOTE:
ASstMali 0PP0Sm StDU Ran
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ADJUSTABLE ,-------,
SHELF
Arter assembling the sides. enly one step remains before the planter is complete -
ance, (lbismade my cleats 15V."long.) SIA1$. Nex~cut the shelf stats (D). To aUow water to run of{ between the slats. I left VI" gaps between each sial. see Fig. 19. making the adSo. to determine the width of each slat. justable shell. The subtract :V," from the length of the cleat (for sbelf consists of four the three 1,1," IIOp5). Then divide this measand two cleats, urement by (our (for the four slats). In my L-_-=-v -' slats we ~ig. 19. case, this made each $lot3'V4" wide. sec Fig. ClL\1S. Cut the cleats (E) from 'I',"·thkk 19. stock 10 a width of 2lr!'. To determine the To determine the length 01 the slats, length of the cleats (E). measure ll.~ dis- measure from the drilled side of on. POSIto tance on the inside of the planter from side the drilled side of the opposite post and subslat to side slat and subtract ~" for dear- tract W. (My slats are 1~·4"long.)
---
19
-
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-_
.'\S!;t.\WLY.1 romplcoc-oth(.'shelf~s..",,",bl)'
by screwing the dears to the sla.ts.The screws go through the cleats and are centered Onthe widthofeach SL1~"'"Fig.l9a. To put the shelf in place. upone end down into the planter. Then set the ends of the cleats on the shelf pins and lei tbe other end of the shelf drop into place, Sf!(! Fig. 20. ~lNI$H.To finish the planter. I used an equal mixture of spar varnish and tung oil. see page 31. It seals the wood and darkens it only slightly SOthe deep nod tones of the redwood remain visible. It also build. up a soft sheen after two l'OaIS.
20
®
SHElf SLATS
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23
TOO
TECH~IQlJI:S
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Japanese Saws W
,lIld lb. That third bevel across the tip ot each toeth on a Iaf).1nc,,·... w i.j!I'(l
h~n f fiNI pkk,'(j up a
) apan~'(' saw. 1 was '11Irig1l('(1.II was '" lighl. and and thv teeth were
thin.
like. knife point. (.fm,,; 'TOOl-.n. If youwant 10 Iry iljapan<"<' saw. where do YIIU brRin' I starred with a dozuki (th,' japant>Se version of a b .....k .......' I wanted to see how It "Quid work on CUlling d..,·,·,.. l-, tlLy,orbgreaL) On..., III'. thai out of my S)'.'llan to u-e the dozuki for 'mall trimmillg;oo". and graduall) 1)...< ,m, comfortable y,ith Ih, '11U1I-trukc and the fine teeth, II...... much should you pay for
in"redibly sharp. I thought I would ruin Ih(' thin I,..-Ih with the fin-I ...tmke. ~1u~ic.'1\" was not th,·y,a,·lou ' n.t hadto learnto u,,' rl1\,·,....· Youha\'rtoadju>t yourthiDk·
'nlland • ....,.-u;Kh.,·'·CllIOmake the 6rsl,-UI.)apan'_ '3w"hav~ long. thin handle-, usually "'"TlIl'I'<"I y,'Ih rallan You bold tht-m mt.r,-,Iik a hammerthan a ""'''· .... u-m-aw (l 'J', ()'
1'1U. .,TItO,,'_ Bul
Iht' bi!: diffrr,·nct· " Ihat Jap3nt~~c.·,ay,.~ cut on the p,,11 slrok. TIll' 1"('lh art· 3Ill!Ied back toward you, so a~ you pull they dig into the wood \\oil)l only IIII' lis:hl~$1 pressure.
i~ under ten-um. it can be considerablythin-
ncr and Illlul"'~n'tlakt' ncar ule e.ffort to USt' - nil o( whirh nu-an...more accurate cuts, But, )lo\II\l\\,t, to make some adjustments \\1lydld Ilw,lap;lnc>t! design their saws 10 CUIon die pull stroke? Aclually. when you in your appruarh IIIajapruw"" saw, CUlting Ihink nboul it. Ih.· question should be, why on Ih,' Ilull .Iruk" wilh 3 thin, liRbl saw mean ...rl,fingillS: 11(1\\'\'OUl1Uki the sa". ho\\ 00 \l,'('~t'rn ....'W~Cl.lton the push SlJ'Okp? for u we-n-rn sa" blade 10 <'UIon the push much Iln· ......urv )'t,U"I",pl)'.and evenhow you : tll~' "'I. iJ,!:ill ell vour bcdv. 'Irt.kt". Ih. bl.d.· h"" 10 be thick, Sliff. and u ..... . n rm. \\ilh Ih,· firs' ,wkt.· vou tak~. qUilt' ...tront:: '() it ~·(Jn·.btKkk \\'hen forced ) IIUllf ...·1hoy, >harp the l('t·th art'. and ho .. Ihn.lIllh Ih,' ,,,,,,d. '«' ~ig.I. qUK'kl) L)h, -Ion' th."Ouah wood ..-i!h ,urTht"pull 'Lr..k.· of japanese <,n,,·. ,\" lho· teeth are puDreI pri,illwl) lild.·, rrort. f.ach ,·rv".:ul loom on a jap:U1t'''<' sa'" Ihruullh Iht .... od. II pulb th .. blad., under {I n ...ion. in ('(k,"' ..tr.u.:htmin,g il Out and af- ha, thrt I.' b ..·\·c-l.... .-hiTt" \\·t-:-lem- .. t}'lt·
fordin\()l1'\'~«'rcontrol. AI
1
WEsnRN·STYlf lHKK Il.A.Dl
..I':
IUCKllNQ..I';
../
'.""NT. /' .
!loll 1""',
s{."("
F~
fa
deform. I would buy ,I saw in th" S:W 10 $40 ranee (For ""'.Un,·l· .... ':'t4.'t.' pal-f{. 31.) HI'J'I.I(E.o\IJU;
111"".". On.
of the b<'SIap-
•
pn>a
2
OO%UKIIIACI(SAW
BACKS?A,=,W,--""
NlCU$AOY TO
"_/
cro~,,'Ultt,·th h l\
o"' w~(l"n'l buythemost expensiv,·.;Jl" ahhuugh tlu- b<'a"ty I,)f the belief Sfl"'~ i~ ''-'1111l'hll{ C)lIl' of th ... · reasons for the hi.llhc·r pril'<' in Jilpant'~ ",'W$ is that they have thinner black, -lIre!ll in the hands of experience. but alco (~asy to break or
LOOSlN s(1tlW to •• MOVlIlADI
I
CUTS ON IllUlLSll1tOKI
,J
/..
.
p.'N .....
""
NOn:
c:aoss SlOT
AUOWS aI.AD{ 10 at MOUNTlO At ANGlE
\
a.
WESTERN CROSSCUT
......
.........
i
9USH
_ )
THIRD IIVlL
JAPANESE CROSSCUT
=- ?PIIU
.J
3
•
c:; ::t WOttKPlKI
No. i'i
•
DOZUKI One of the mostpopular Japanese sawsisthe doeukl (DOlE-ou·key) backsaw It's the most simtlar (0 iLS western COUDter,Mlr1. and a good one 10 Slart with lt consists of a thin blade that's supported by a metal "back" along the top edge of the blade. And il has a high numberoftecth per inch, u~uaIJyabout 26. TIle u-eth have almost no sri. so Ih,'Y CUI a verv narrow kerf. This makes lhe dozuki <'SpeCiallyltood for doing fine work. Dozuki mean> "shoulder" in Japanese. and the original purpose ofthe
Sl"'·...:~cuish()ul(letl;on tenons, see Fig. 4. But because the blade is so thin. It's ideal for cu[ting dovetails and other precision Joinery. GRIt'. To IISCthe dozuki, hold il in one hand. see FigA. You can use a lighlgripand s llll have good control. To help keep the saw aligned when rutting. extend your index finger on the side ofthe handle. <:ROS$.c~Tl1NG. To start a cut, aligo the blade just to lite waste side of lite CUI line at the far comer oflhe workpiece. (Note: Use your thumbnail or knuckle as a guide.)
5
fXnND tNDIX. flNG¬ 1
TOIMPtovt
a.
Since the width of the blade and the strip
along the back of the dozuki limithow deep you caucut, you'll needaditlerenucehnique 10 rulthrough stock that's thicker than the width of the saw blade. Todothis. start a kerfon one face.see Fig. 5. Then. without Slopping the cUlting motion. rotate the piece 90' and continue the kerf along the cut line. see Fig. Sa. Keep rolating the piece until you have a continuo ouskerfalhhewayaround. Now.deepen the kerf on each face until you've CUIthrough. CUTTING SEQUENCE
CONTROL
""
~
SHAUOW KERF ON AU'ACU
HOtDDOZUXl WitH ONt.RANO ROTAn: WORl
•
CUTCOHr'HVOU5 )(£JtJ
RYOBA Ii nolhing else.a ryoba (R\'E.uh.bah) $3W will considerably lighlen your lool box. 11131's because it can replace two western saws, a rip saw and a crosscut saw. Ryob:omeans "double" and refers 10 the blade-ilhascrosSCtlll""lh on one side, see fig 6. And ripping I('('lh on the other. see Fig. 7. Ryoba saws come in several diCferenl lenglhs-lhe longcrthc saw. the longerthe teeth. The longesl saws (13" or more) arc designed for limber Imming. The teeth on the medium length saws (I l" 10 J2") arc de-
6
signed forcarpenlry work. 111e shorter saws (7" 109Vl1 an' for joinel')' GRIP. The I')'obacan be held in nne hand lik.. the dozuki, or "'lh bolh bands. see Fig. 6. \\'hen using both hands. try a "golf·type" grip with one or bUilt index fingers extendrd. \\'hile it may seem awkward at first. I find usin)! this grip helps keep III. saw aligned. Ialso notice that when ripping thick stock, using both hands is less tiring. RIPt'INC TECHXIQI'E. like the dozuki backsaw.the smallerryoba sawscan be used
US( CiltOSSCUf UtrK
7
WHlNCUlT'ING ACROSS GUtlN
for doing fine work. And when you need 10 do a particularly accurate CUI. tty ripping with the saw in a vertical position. see Fig 7. To do this, first Is),OUl3cut line on the top And bouom faces of the workpiece. Then. hold the piece so il extends ofi the bench. Start the cut using the teeth near the handle. then turn d,e piece overand continuethe kerf from Uleotl,crside. Now turn lhe piece over several times to advance thecut, As you near the end oflheclIl. move the fulllenglh oflhc saw vertically through the wood. see Fig. 7. U.s£ JU,PPINGTEmf TO
-
CUT1£NON ( ....roo
CUT TtNO~ CHUXS
•
WmiSAWlN VIJITICAl POSmON
N ., ') • '(1,
\VooJ.mith
25
•
KUGIHIKI U,ually, wh"n 1counu-rbon- a -;en....to hide the head.J 61111>,' hole "'ith a dowel or plug. But a]Il" II1uiJ1Rlh, dowel in the bole, I'm
eermcn. BUIIhl"\,aJ'l' important differences b<'l",~:n Ihis '3" and other croSS
l,te,'II with th" problem 01 trimming il flush \\11h Ih" ",rl .. ·". II" • problem because I want to "v"id "'rulching Ih.>surface ollhl' wOri
the kugihik] haVl'no '<'I-theycuta kerf the "'lIle width'" Ih,' bl,,,le. Thi. is both good and bad. 11'
<.;t_~
kugihiki [,
"''1'0'....'111"~II'with 2IJ.261eelh
Ilow(",,(·,.11 )·otl nll,h..nlt It tenon, the bindInR ran bt- S(.\t_ n" (smce a tenon is longer and IlIick,.,. Ihan. dow..l), see Fill. 9.
ru':>.IHIJ-.Anolhfr difference between
the kugihiki lind "I her eros-cut saws is the blade i, much more nt·lOblc.This means car ...mu,1 b.·ldken 10nol bl'l'akor"kinlt'"the bladl' - .. SI·riU'" limitation in a blade Iilal o(len bind, in Ihl' k"rl Since a kugihikl rf"I, $.10and i> lridey 10 us." il «'nalfll), 1,"'llh" fin,1 Iapaaese saw
I'd buy. In lar~ IIYIlU have a dozuki, uy Oush cullinll ",111 it ~«' us teeth are set, thev won't bind in the kc n.Just be carerul to protect ihe V.(Jrkpil",(t' from-cratches,
I
8 NOTE: rtmtWlUNOT KUl(H Sl.al-ACl
\
I
GRIJI SA,W WltHONli_
•
TlCAOUOH ftNON
AZEBIKI ·Thtrt· ....aJJtJthcr rvobe ..t\ lc ~'" that has no din-e I"t .....l. rn t'QUlvaIt"lll_ It'~ called me azebiki ,1'.11-1,h·II~.~ k.~,),..,..~i)!.W. It has a
In \~
tlJ.!tlt 'lttlatIOltt.
~) It .. htlptuJ \\ ben
vou'n dlilns: funlTII11T:boat, or home repair work t>-"nu~ )fl1ll"fln u...._It in ('Iu~spaC'( .... ,h,," d..ubh...'tI~,'dblad.. cPfllr,ffl on Iht' 'AililutJI dan'.iij!lnJ,l"II.IT(»UJ1din~...urfaees, Tbr- .•/I·biki', curved blade allows you 10 ,nd ,,[" I"n~ neck IJk" Ih. ryoba.lh,· 32eth on ullesidc lIM'() Ie. rut nlt)11iSt't\ 311(1groove~ in 111(' 311<1('nl ...",ul 1(.'t'lll(111tfll" other. tile- azebiki middl""1 "lx,,,d. lIntblidinJl dovetail<. But l"an ('tit" hll tllt' J,truin or ac..ro~ it. I ~J-':(,nil V.l-lflkJ Ttl ~u13 mortise or:1 bt'rnu~' elr it,'Iniqllt ..llAPf'. '\!11a11si7..t".UJI(l Ji~hl v.(·ilothl.it rail aJ~1 be: tl"(_'() to makt~l'"Ul!'1 ,lui ill II...middl.·"fa board. ,1aJ'I by making
10 Of
STAt' ... , WITH $(itlU
0,
a 'cut line tu 1:'eI Ille kerf ntabTIsht'd.Then apply Ill......pn'''u!'\' a, Ihe k, nllCh d
bl.cI,· nVNa ,mllghl bL,d ... A rlozuki cancul lItl"lV'", inmid l",n<'1 lJut ii' ,lmighl blade won', d"orlh" ",wdu,1. IlWC'JrVl'
11
IJGHT 'ASSU
• No. 75
•
•
CUnlNG GUIDES Among the tools you might find in a traditional) apanese toolbox an: block gauges or cutting guides. These are small wood or steel blocks that help start a saw cutting at the proper angle. set' Fog. 12. I like using them will, )apan<,:«' saws. and thl')' can be a big help witll western saws. 100. I have two sets of blocks in my toolboxone for culling miters and dovetails in !I:l". thick stock and another for cUlting both joints In ~"'Ihick stock. (Note: Each guide am be used lor only one thickness of stock.) One block in each set guides cuts for 45 and 91)'• see photo.The second block guides 10' cuts for making dovetails. see Fig. 12. I made tile guide blocks from oak. but any dense-grained hardwood would work well. )IAKINGTIlF. GliIDES. To make a set of guide blocks. start out ...ith a 12"·long piece of stock, t'V."·thkk, WId2"·wide.lbe length is longer than you need lor two blocks. but tile extra lengtb makes it safer to cut the gT'OOV(>S and angles. First. cut three groove-sIn fit over the edge olaworkpiece.Tndothis.scllhedadoblade for the thickness of the ieepinto ),'llidc blocks with anllk>d sides To do this, I used Ilw table saw. First. forlhe~5' /90' llUide.IiIL the blade to 45' and make a cut close to one cnd. see Fig. 13.Then sei tile blade back 10 90' and make a cut 2" from tlte firsL Next.tt) cut the dovetail block. reset the blade for 10· and then make two parallel cuts about 2" apart. (Aguidewith two parallel angll>d sides will let you cut both angles of tit,· tails and pins byjust turning thcguide block around.) I)SJN(;TIlE GIIIl)ES.To use a guide block.
HOLD oa (!,AMP CU1TJNC G,,"o( ON WORXPIKI
CJ
\
KElP MAOt fWSM WITH aUIDE TO
lSTA8U$1oI KERf
13
ClNTfR GIOOvtS ONSfDES
-
0,
(\~e~~~r~
. ....~
GUlO[
1
10'
IDOmAn. WAn,
oovrrAII.
,.
GU'" -WASTll
..,.".;...;""
Nuw start your cut, k,'Cpiog thl' saw blade set the groove in the block over the edge of the workpiece where you want to make. cut, flush against tlte block until the kerf is wd~ Yeucanclampthccurting gulde In the work- established. Then you can remove the piece. or jusl hold ibc block in place as you block. or keep it there to complete the cut ir your saw blade Is wid,' vnough saw. see Ftg.IZ.
EAST MEETS WEST Ou arecem visitLO mylocalbardwa
western S3W~.this has long. sharp.
( discovered some wcst(!""'llyle saws with saw JapaneSM"tylc teeth, see photGatri!1hl. Instc:ld uf havill!! twO l>
•
•
three-bevel Japanese t('Clh. see photoatlell. One manufacturer, S(aIlley. calfstheir lineof hybrids ·Short Cut" saws. and make!' them in Pennsylvania, The lin(' includfs panel
I~ litis claim py timing h"w long it look IDmake a cut willllhe lSb400g 1"001 Box" saw. and !hen Ilming !he=cul ",it,h a IljIdilional western crosscin saw, The saws. backsaws, and a 1'oolllox saw. <;tanley has mad,' some chang® 10 Ihe "Tool Box" sawdid makt'illbto)lgb wiU15(1¥. lraditlonal .IaJ).'says·eutsthc'W"od5O\Jaster ung-COIlSIlUCtiongradcIwnbef. d(~"'/l/o" ftfll 1)011,IIUS), and pUU(lfJin/(r.jJ. than con~tioJlll] ~ws.·
Nu.7~
li
CO~TEST
SHOP
•
-----------!
Sawhorses R
c
The differences
between
knock-down sawhorse. What I like most about thi, folding model is that it goes 10getherquiddy. And when ir. assembled, it's almost
the
three group' arc mainly related to stab ility, load-beartng strength.and portability. R)\(()CK,I)OWl\, Our favorue knock-down sawhor'l' Is the
like a having a conven-
simplest to build - )'IIU jusl draw the pattern onto plywood and cut il OUI. refer 10 Fill, I And since it knock ...do w1\••t·'!'> ~rfM(or~m('()n~ ..ilh brrated
SHARPINING tiPS Oil:-.tont·... warerstones. grinding wh(~+, and ,.j)arpcnllll1alds- howdo you {)(I!OU11'. tht.'n1>,,(, they're easily accevvibl .. and can be cleaned up qukkl) , If \ Oil have aJI)' storage ideas. or .n) WllClU(.' ,harpcmng lip", we'd
n"~1o."''T10liAL. U you don't mind giving up
storage space. you can
Uk,' 10 ..." them \\ "11 publi-h th< ~sI sharpening ti~and ..(orage idea...in upC'Oming i~ !!t-u(.· ... \\ uuu- ....\\ ill receive S 100 anda 11'",.1." It" \t."tcrTry Square plical~ or ,imih.r entries will be con
no-
SAWHORSE ....
1 S",· .L
The problem wilh most knock(town ~,\\llllO~~lS they're not v"ry :of Mad........ CaUfomia minimi74'" thi"problt'm by using a «'I o( tab-. thaI fil in <10.. to -lock 'Ih,' Pt,...ut the pil'tt>o If you'", building more than one. ust' the ..... a templale. "-""F\tR.' ~EQlEliCE. Start by in",rtjnjl th~ cro" brace into th(' hole. in the leg~, Then. malch Ih(' ,Iot< in the top to the legs. Rnd
-
.304'.-0
CROS5BRACE 6\."
END UN!T5
,l) "..
-"
....
-] TOP RAIL
I ","
.. _.s,"
I
,
2".-
CROSS BRACE
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,
15' ~..
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SltDnMA
TOP RAIL
3':"j
.. .....
pi''''h.'
18
NEXT CONTEST
tional sawhorse,
build a coO\'ellliona] saw SlOtagt' space.In compari-on tl' horse, refer 10 Fig. 3. These sawho ...ses are the other group" the knockdown de;6'5, some: .......... ·hoN'"\ to '('''3ttJl? here sIMlgth (ThoughaCll'rbuildinll 2x4', and lx6'" Thi:. 011(' (W~I,riginallv had Ihc; s.'hl-dulcd a pair. \\-e wert" ..."Urpri~"(1ht)'4 i,no exception. And ifyou 10 fill one 1XI$I~ of 11',,,.£,,,,,11,, strong they actually are.) make more than one, thty bul you can ....... ·wh.t happened.) FOUlDOG,The folding '3'" can be stacked on lOp of II'e quickly noticed most horse we rho",' i, 'iJ(llifi,'.,ntly each other, plans fit int"on.o(!h~~groups: Stronger than the knock-down Since it's made from knock-down sawhorses, folding version, refer to ~ig.2,Alld~ince larger dimension stock. it folds up neatly, it doesn't take it"lhe strongest and InOSI sawherse-; and conventional up muel1 uiore S)J3C(' 111311 a
KNOCK·DOWN
I.l.lybt· Ihar, why you see beatupold sawhorses Uk" this still in U\.;t' on construction sites.
-
"
,
....,.
''''.''-'':
'
., t __ I~ .. "
~
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No, 75
•
•
---=-=-==
FOLDING SAWH0r-RS-,-E 2
SAWHORSE fOLDED
END VIEW
'6-,
CUT l1.t:t'".w'IOE
DAOO~.·on:P
..
'
TOP RAILS
$ll OfT All C _./
(I."
part to thlssawhorse isthe hardware. when it's folded up. there isn't enough clearance to install the bolts or hinge SCI1.'WS.
•
aDOAI ADOING ......
NUT
-'6----4-1
~O\\'the
BRACfS
leg'C
CONVENtiONAL
GWE LtG 10 RAIL
c.
IOlTS
To ,;olvp this. JiM screw the hinges to the top rails. Then remove the hinge pins.
SCUWH£NGES IN PLACi
b.
lOP squeeze lOP Touseil.juSI enos. The I ricky
'-.) ,.toO
I( you
CONS1lIt
SUDlfAllS
\
One reasonwe the fold· ing sawhorse sent by Don Paul of Arthur. North Dakota is the unique way it folds and unfolds.
pick it up by reaching under the rails. the legsclose up, the rails tozerher and the legs spring open.
COONTtRStHIC $11HOlf ..,," OftP
.....
\
... WOOD SCit(WS
o.
fOR HlNCE MOUNnNO
\
AITACH CHAIN W1TH II x 1'f..t-
--,
tlld)
SAWHORSE 3
SIDE VIEW '.·
END VIEW
__
r
v
SfE OffAJl A
TOP RAIL (b6)
SU OUAlL.
A well-built conventional sawhorse gets its
,
•
END BRACES LEGS
(1.6)
(2.0<4)
CUT 10 Frf
/ 20' CUT ON aOlM (NOS
g(·l$
around this. 11came from Rick Schertz of MOWl!'dQUa,Illinois. set' Fill, 3. The legs (II'(' >playl!
b. S'''''
SECOND:
fIRST: GlUt AND NAil UGS IN PLACE
t-
'-~
ITlll<;
SECOND: G.WtAND
SCREW END au.CB TO LEGS
,'Ullil1l1lhl''' angl<'
cut tIlt' .IId, tor limits of the notch wllh • handsaw and re-
,
I
.a
JC. II".. WOODSCUW
mll\,t,('ltU'Y.ll'tl'WJ:':lh~a:chi~·:Iot':I~._-====================================~ ....~';1./') ' --
\VooJsmith
29
COMMENTS
AND
•
QUESTIONS
'Ialking Shop WEAIHERED
FURNIIURE
• Alt~r we buill the redwood Adirondack fumiture last summer. we len it out on the patio, This spring I OOtiCl'(!\hat some otthe redwood had turned gray,
ItWiveme the opportunity to test a couple methods (or 1"i'St0ri,pg outdoorfumiture, I(you like the gray color redwood takes en, you canjust rinse and lilllllly,;crub the wood 10 remove any dirt, see photo A.
c,~f.:·STEI·MEl'IIOn.
To
re-
mc>vc'Ih,> gray and lighll.'ll IIw wood. I tried a "deck cleanerbrightener" available at most
horne centers,
StEPPED
In most cases, you simply spray or brush the product on, Alt"r letlinR the soluuon work, scrub tlte wood with. stilfbrush and then rinse (not shown), lWO.sTF.P METHOD,Another method 1 tried (and preferred since it offers more control) is recommended by the California R,'«wood Association. To remove the dirt and gray, SlTUbthe wood with a solution 01 011'> cup trisodium phosphate (!'Sf is a common cleaner) per gallon of water, see B. Then, rinse and repeat ifnecessary. Now, to lighten the color,
brush on a solution of t-olCUP oxalic acid crystals dissolved in one galJonofwater. (rsPaodox· alic acid are both available at hardware stores.) Then leI the
solution dry and rinse, sec C, R£Fl1
SOUrnONs.we temporarily
the problem by ndjl.sting the tip teuce or the r'dJ1f011 your saw, [( they're not adjustable, Y""
SHOULDERS ON IENONS cuuenonson the table saw. Kct:p
the ....orkpiece beued agrun$l the ""lvet! the problem by clamping rip fence as YOIl make a rut. And a block to the fence, sec fig, 3, make sure sawdust doesn 'I build This method doesn'tcompletely
up along the fence between
can attach an auxiliary fellCP to the rill (enee,S('t' Fig. 4. Then by placing shims between the
eliminate th e problem, but it doesminimize it, For a more permanent solu- fences. you can bring the auxiliplece mayalso b<' part ofthe probIcm. If the ends aren't square, it tion, you may be able to correct ary fent'" go'teI the table top, won't butt flush to the fence So FlHCt 1$ NOT90· each CUI you make will be a 1 to rUlE 2 different distance from the end. • I'm hat1illgl'ro1fblt' C"l(tl;llg Thiscauses stepped shoulders . SETUP. I(your technique and FdIST CUTS .tiJll~··'ith(Jjll(lt'''i!d feUf"'X U~; 11!l(J dntl» bl(1.ap (IU 'tit! Iltblr ~/llfl. workpiece check out, but you're ....MADE fA,C[ OF...._ Ttu fitfJ' rut.~art ox, J'1l1 J,'11I;-',' still !telling stepped shoulders, ON WORKf>lta .-.... your rip fence is most likely the 111/(1(" tilt IIY)"~'pirX" t)Jl (dgr problem (as il was in my case). "",l'llflk, tiel' 4,'(1 and The face of the fence is prob~/''''J,/,Jl'r ('utA. tIff' .'(ltCJ"Idt.t,.-,'" ably leaning ("'''tllvi the blade r(,lll" IJllt It "1'"",,. \\'IIot y;I'fl",t~ - irs not 90' to the table. (It'S Bwl'1rllIl1;'" hl'! III '1,1.• \/It:I,ig~11l shown exaggerated in Fig.!.) Ield Ihe same problem But yuu won't notice Ihis probAUJaI..lAAY FlNCf ANO ...hen making the ICR$ for the lem until you CUl a tenon with 3 NOTE: IoIAKl MOCK Stfl,MS MING FENa 90" 4 ,-=::::!~~5UOHT1.Y HlGHtlt THAN (our shoulders, Here's why. Patio Table in this Issue, F::::!..... TOrAW DIJ'II< Of CUT When you CUI the (wide) F "I~ 1·~()8I..b\I, A "stepped" shoulder is created when the shoulder. on the faces of the four shoulders of a Wnon don't piece, the piece contacts the I align, ntis Call be caused b)' fence near the bottom.see ~ig. But when you fliPlh~pil'Ceon several sttuatiuns. the '0'.3)' you're using til., table saw. U,e rdstelorut the (narrow) mouItk-n;. .condition of the workpiece, and it contacts the fence higher up. 111ispushes the piece away from the way the table saw is set up. TECIlXIQl~, There are two the saw blade creating' stepped \hings 10 remember when you shoulder, see Fig, 2, cuts,
11U; WORKPIECE.The work-
•
"-..-.,
~t"
3(1
\V"odsmlth
:-Jo. 75
•
PROJECT
•
SOlJrCeS ACCINTLAMP \'loodsmith Project Supplies is offering a hardware kit for the N:ceot Lampshown on page 12. The kif includes all the electrical pansand support hardware. The brass inb}' strips. "'in~antghle.··
and shade can be ordered separately, see below. (Nole:This kit does nut include wood, assembly screws. or finish.) Accent Lamp 775·100 Accent Lamp Hardware Klt S7.95 • (1) Six FOOL Coni and FlU)!
(Gold Colored). UL Approved • (I) Slraight Fixture Pipe, II"
Long, W'LP. Thread, 'Illru!d<>d Both Ends. Brass-Plated • (I) B=$ Hex Nut and Sleel Lock washer, fitsF'ixturePipe
•
SUPPLIES
• (1) Steel\Vasher, 1"Dia. • (I) Check Ring. Brass-Plated.
I~"Dia, • (1) Shade Harp. Two Piece. Bras.. PIated,7" • (1) Ught Socket, Brass-Plated,
Push-Through On-Ofl S"iICh, ULApproved • (I) finial Cap.Brass-Plated
IlRASS STRIPS. The l.amp shownonpage 12hasdccorativc brass strips, w. bought theorig-
inal strips from a hobby shop. \Voodsmith Project Supplies is also oflcring the brass strips, 775·150 Brass Accent Strips, .064"1'hick. V,I' \~lde, 12" u'OI:. Box of "'i8ht_ ...•...$5.95 per box
INST,\l\T GU E. Mer some experimenting, we found out that
It should stand up 10 most outMORTISING .ITS door conditions and is available epoxy glue didn't hold the brass To drill the mortises for the Red· at home centers. hardware strips to the wood very well. So wood Planter, we used special stores, or the sources below. we tried using a variety of "in- mortising bits mad" by Vellllont FlXtSH. To finish these outAmerican, These are similar LO a doorprojects.l applied twecoats stant" (l:yanoacrylate) gluc$. The one we chose sets up in 20 Forsmerbit. but have a long Gulf oi a 50/50 mixture of Meto SOseconds and heldthe brass to pull thechips<>ul (If a mortise. Closk.'y'~ Man 0'\"8r Satin strips securely in place. We use them on the drill press, Spar Varnish and McCloskey's Stain Con[l'ol1er& \'{ood Sealer. This instant glue has the con- see Fig. 3 l1l1 page 20. Woodsmith Project Sup- (Thisisa thinned down tung oil.) sisteo~'y of cold honey so it fills offering three individual These productsare sold at home gaps. \" e recommend you also plies L~ order the solvent to remove glue sizes of there bits (you need a centers and hardware stores, or from your hands and clothing. \,<~.bit for the Planter), or ihey can be ordered (rom The Wood· 775·210 Special 'T Glue, 2 uz, can be purchased as a set, workers' Store, see below. PAD1T.On the back cover boule, $9.9S 278-647 8il $8.95 775·220 Ultra Solvent, 2 ot. 278-650~· 8it ,. $9.95 we're showing a pine Planter bonle ~ S4.95 278·653 ~~"BiL SIO.95 Box primed with a coat of Rust!.o\.\lP SHADE. Lamp shades 278-654 Set of3 8its $28.95 Oleum's light gray I'lood Saver Printer. Then it was sprayed can be purchased at many deOUtDOOR GLUE with two coats of Rusl.Qleum's partment stores. Finding a AND FINISHES birch white Wood Saver Enamel square shade may be more diffi· cult. but we found oursata local Since both the Patio Table and from an aerosol can. Rust-Oleum's Wood Saver ligbtingshop, \Voodsmith Pro- Planter are Ukel)' 10 sitout in the rain and sun, Iwanted touseglue products 81'<' available at many ject Supplies is offering the high quality square linen shade and finish that would stand up to paint stores and home centers. shown in the photo on page 12. thc'$C: conditi(lf1~, JAPANESE SAWS 775-175l.amp Shade, 12" Sq. EPOXY. A two-part epoxy glue x 8" lIigh. White Linen ... $27.95 is the strQngesi wru(!fJlroofglue, Japanese saws (shown on pages but it's expensive and cured 24 [0 26) are availablefrom Ille PATlOTAJlU epoxy won't come of! anything follo,",ing catalogs. Please call \Voodsmith Project Supplies very easily . It's dilficulllo scrape each company lor a catalog or is offering ihe threaded insens off squeeze-out mihou! tearing more information. up splimers of soft redwood. and bolts for the Patio Table. Tbe kptm. "'·00U0 Constantine'" ~~ Patio Table PI.AS11C RESIN. Another op- ~ ooo.s37-7820 Gam-u lVook tion is a rnolsture-resistant plas- Rida Japant.ti(' 775-300 Patio T.bl~ Hard~221-2942 ware l
It."
ORDER INFORMAIION
ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES Si)Iliiar
"(lrd~(I(lrntl"d$uppl;'~
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LAST
LOOK
Final Details
... All ACCCltt l.Att/'p
lot)~'1!flood i"S' obovt n"!I' .rltert·go" display it, C/wosethe woods (1) ('(Jillm.
• Til'" Pla/t/t." Box i~»uuie Jj'o", pi", 111('/1 11(11111,11 "/,;Il'. B'lt tllf 1Xl;1'( dorsf"( ",(J, uu drr» rat ,.. r),nu1.I' }"Cd ranfS 0'1 ,1,# It'g~d"d M,tl, A"t1I~.
Japanese Saws
Patio Table
• The blad ••
0'11 Japan'$t 8al<'$ arerervthin
alii/
jlexibl(. Tbis mea"~ tht'!1produce finr kerf. nnd {lit" Utiliprf.ix •• tight-jittingj
32
• Spli"'~ (m lite ''OI',w78 ofl)'1ll PutW Table areflt jt<.
\'(/oodsmuh
•
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