NO.22
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$2.50
Sawdust Number 22
~uly. 1982 Editor Donald B. Peschke Design Director
Ted Ki'aJlcek An Elire<:tor Jon Snyder
;A;ssista,nt Editor Steve. Krohmer <;lraphlCQeslgnecs David Kteyllng Marcia Simmons
SubScription IManager Sandy J. Baum SubSC!iptlon Assistants Chrislel Boric Vicky Ro.blnson Kim Mellon Jackle.Slrolid Olr. €ampUler 0pe~1lQns
Ken Miner AdminIStrative Assistant Oheryl Scott
ABOUT 'JlIUS ISSUE. If you've been read-
ing this column for the j)Q"stfew issues, you know that r keep coming up with reasons why we.didn't run an-article on cutting lap (halFblind) dovetails. W"II, we finally got it-in this issue. And we managed todoifthe way we originally intended: showing both hand-cut and machine-cut dovetails. !:Jutting dovetails with a machine (a router) certainly eliminates that eld- time craftsmanship. But it gets the job done. And 1 was quite content to-use the router when it came time to build the gaggle of drawers needed for the modular storage system (shown on ,page 12). Yet, 1have to admit s6mething. r really e!\ioy the hand-work that goes into lap dovetails when it's done the old-fashioned way. It's almost like working On one' of those intricate Japanese joints. 1 can sit back in the shop and saw and tal' and chisel to my heart's content. It's elljo,l'able work. MODUI,,'R SrORAGt:. For thOSe of ~'ou who get into the design o[ projects, tHe modular storage system in this issue ought to -strike a responsive chord, No, there's nothing'particularly fancy about it. And if you want to get ''e1llly cynical, t,his whole project is just a' bunch ofboxes stacked on top of one another. But what-inbrigues me about this pl'oject is the complete flexibility you have ... aft~'· the project is built, The door, drawers and shelves can all be -moved around to suit whatever need (or whim)
arises.
WOODSMITH (lSSN 0164-4114) Is publisjied bimontl1ly (January, M9(Ch, May, July, Sep· temoor. November) by Woodsmlth Publishing Co.•2200 Grand AVG.• Des Moines. Iowa 50312. WOODSMITH is 8 registared tradamar!
2
All ofthis flexibility is due in P31'c to the desjgn (give Ted a Jl'!t on the back) and in part to the special' hardware we used. AU of the hardware (except fo.· the resan insorts) for the m
in the mail to you. NEW FACBS. The gang here at WOixl.. "it" is turning into a thundering herd. Since the last issue, we've added four new faces. Ken Miller has been associated with Woodsmit" almost from the beginninghe developed the computer programs we use to process and keep track of everybody's name and address. \Ve'vejust undergone a majorexpansicn of our computer operation, and Ken has agreed ~ work with us full-time to !>eel? those 'machines wllirling and clicking. As a side note, I've even joined the computer ag:e. Instead of pounding keys on the old type"~iter to write the copy, now 1 "key-in" on a word processor. (Datapoint is the brand.) It's afaney machine that saves a lot of time. Dave Kreyling hasjoined Ihe arc team to help Ted with the drawings. Along with gaining an appreciation for the artwork in lVoodSlltifh, Dave is quickly lea"ning bhe amount of work U)at goes into each drawing (3 to 4 hours pel' drawing), Since we typicllily have about SO 91'awinllS in each issue, we needed some help With this workload, and Dave 'is anxious to work, Vickie.Robinson. Kim lI1eltonand Jackie 'Stroud have all signed on to help with the mail opening, processiJ:'g and shipping. Ted likes to say that this whole business comesin in a m3JJ bag and goes out'n a mail bag. J lhink Vickie, Kim and Jackie will h'elp keep those mail bags moving, TRBSCIlEI)I)LE. This issue ofWoods,niU, will probably be In the mail during the week of August 16th. That's about six weeks behind OUI'intended schedule. Althougb I know it'!>frustl'ating to all.of our subscribers, jive never wanted to keep a rigid schedule for publishing each issue. That's one of tl,e reasons we refer to each issue by the issue Number (this one is Number 22). rather than the date (the July
issue.)
But you're running a business. Don, why don't you keep to 8 sehedule? When we get behind, there's IItendency to want to slap togethe.· an issue just to meet the schedule. But that's not fair, I'd rather put. full effort into each issue ... even ifibmeans we'll be "late". To me, it's
bettel' to watch the quality of what goes into ~Vood8mith.rather than to wafch the calendar for when it comes out. showing the legs and storage unit we However, I will guarantee that we'll added to make, it a 11001'model. publish six ISSUe!! a y~ar, and we'll put Since \V~ gave the Plan Booklet ,six 100% effort in each issue. With that in pages, we had more room for more (and mind, our next mailing (Woodsmith No. larger) d,-awings. If you'd like this new 23) should bein the mail dluingthe week of Plan.Booklet, send $1 to us and we'll get it Octo00" 'Ith. 1982. scrtbers are not missing out on anything, this is the same router table wefeatured'in 1V00ihmith No. 20. And in this issue we're
WOOOSMlTH
T_i~s& Techni9_ue_S__
__
EVENLY SPACED HOLES
The article on buildin~ the waU shelf in Woodsmith No. 20 reminded me of how many times I've willed holes in the sides of cabinets only to find that I've spaced them a UtUe bit differently on one side of the cabinet than tbe otber, Theresult is a shelf that teeters. Now r use a jig for boring holes in cabinet sides which assures that the shelves will sit solidly on all four corners, Even if the holes are slightly unequal in spacing up and down the sides, the shelf will sitsoUdly on all fom' corners because b.oth sides of
510' PEG
o
WORkPtKE
OR(llP-R£S5 TABlE--
fENCE
F-
=_@_._6"_"-G-_-.-I 1--'--
hole, Then clamp the baseboard to the drill press table ,vith C-clamps. Drill the fil'st hole and then move the stop peg to thenext hole.and tepOsWionthe board to drill the second hole, l:;arger spacings between holes being drilled' can be made ):>yskipping holes in ihe bnseboard. This jig has saved me hours of.~ayout time and all my holes are drilled uniformly, It really works. OarlRagelt UncasvU/.e, eOlinecticllt SOLID WOOD CORNERS FOR PLYwOOD
With the limited equipment T have in the shop, I've always baa problems cutting mitere,d corners on plywood cabinets. It seems that the veneer is always spUtting or the comers don't meet exactly as planned. And beeauseof the thin veneer on the plywood, you can't even sand them flush. Consequently, I've adopted a corner joint which is very easy to cut, easy to glue and has the appearanee of a mitel'eq COI'ner. And it can be sanded to fit perfectly flush with the plywood cabinet sides. The jOint. is a half rabbet with a solid wood corner. First I cut a rabbet in the side that's only wide enough to overlap one half of the top piece (this is what Icall a half ..abbet). Then the cabinet is glued t.ogether, without any corner strips.
losing allY accuracy. The jig itself consists of two 2'x4' pieces of'Y."plywood, and two 36" aluminum wall standards. Istarted by dadoing two gr:ooves.(%'·wide and as deep as l4 the thickness of the shelf standard) down the length of the plywood in exactly the same position on both pieces. The piece that becomes the top is flipped over and a O/i'xW' dado is cut for the fence. This dado is cut across the width of the plywood, 3' in from the end. and a ",,'x2111" fence is then glued into the dado. On the base piece, 1attached a o/.txlW' strip to the back.edge so lhat the jig can be secured with the .·.dial arm saw's clamp CUT OAOO ;0 iii
THIGKNESS
Of
~lAMP TO SAW TA6LE
STANDARDS
~--------.~--------~ the cabinet are drilled exactly lhe same, The jig consists of a piece of plywood, a fence, and a stop-peg. Th.e jig I use is 10" wide, 48" long, and is large enough to handle almost any project. To layout thejig, draw two lines parallel to one edge of the basebcard, one 5"(A) from the edge for a row of W' holes fot the stop pegs. And the other line (B) is drawn 6' from the edge, for aligning the front edge of.the fence. The holes are laid out-carefully along line A and are spaced the same distance apart the finished holes will be (f use I" spacings). Drill the holes to within about W of going through the baseboard. A 1y,' wide fence is attached to the baseboard along line B. This leaves about 2" behind the fence to clamp the baseboard to the ruin press table, The stop peg is merely a dowel about 4" long with a sUght chamf(lr ,on one end. To use the jig on the Will press, insert the stop peg into a hole in the jig that is far enough toward one end to accommodate moving the workpiece, through, from the first bole to the last. Thel} hold the work piece against the fence and the stop peg. Align the bi!Seboard so that the spur of the bit is directly over the location of the first W00DSMITH
screws. Then the \\:311standards are screwed into tbe dados on the opposite side, I've found that the wall standards in tha baseboard \\~IIslide easily ill dados of the top if all the wooden parts are given a coat o[ seale!" and then waxed.
fll.UlI $1111'--_ SUGHTL't OV&RSfZED
SAND RUSH
RAB8£T
JI111rffll Jacobsen
WinChester, Kelltucky SEND IN YOUR IDEAS
Then I cut.a small CO''I1e!'strip of solid f----------------1 wood approximately y". oversized, This We invile you 10 share your woodworking lips strip is glued into the come r and sanded an~ techniques wilh olhe, readers 01 Woodflush with the' plywood surface. S(7i/th,W. will pay a minimum01SS lora lip, al)d or mora lor a speclallQchnlqua. Allmalerlal Jan i'ederselt SfO submiHodbecomes Iho property 01Wood,milh Kam(,olYp8,B.,itisk Columbia Pubnshiog Co, Upon parmenl, you ljive Woodsmith the righllo,use the malerial in any manner RADIAL ARM CUT-OFF JIG lor as 10hgas we ",ish, Squaring' up andlor· cutting to lengUt stock II your idea involve. a dtllwing or photo to lhat's wider than tbe reach of the radial explain II, do your best and, il n_$S'ICY, we'll arm saw (14') has always been somewhat make a new drawing. or bUild the project or jig of a problem for ",e. Even 011 a table !l8W, ana pholograph it. (Any drawings or photos there's just not enough suPP.ort to cut off a submilted cannot be ",Iuroed,) wide table top (80') ,vith good accuracy. Send your i~eas 10:Woodsmilll, 'Op,.&TechI came up with. a jig for the radial arm niques, 2200 Grand Ave.. Des Moines, Iowa saw that can handle cuts up to 30" without 50312,
3
Hand--Cut La~Dovetails CUTIING DOVETAILS THE TRADITIONAL WAY Lap dovetails require more pure handwork than any o.therjointin woodworking, Although thisjoint.can be cut \\tith a router and speeial template (as described on page 6), if you're building a piece of furniture that has only one 01' two drawers, it~ probably Jaster (and a lot more fun) to cut lap dovetails by hand. CO:
The first step is to cut the drawer front to fit the opening in t.he cabinet, For a lipped drawer front you want to overlap the opening by y"., so the drawer front is CUL a total of 0/.," larger ,in both 'dimensions, Then cut a :y.o-wide rabbet on all four edges of the drawer front. CUT PIECES TO SIZE,
LAYING OUT AND CUnlNG
THE PINS
Fal' a ,lapdovetail, the pins must be cut on the drawer front first. This works out fine because the pins require the most hand, work (and thus the most chance for error). B,ASt:LINE, The first step is to mark the base line for the pins, To do this, hold olie of the side pieces flush with the rabbet on the drawer front, Fig, 1. Then r use a sharp pencil to mark the base line, Ailtbough it's,notnecessary, Iusually go back, and cut along this line with an X-Acto knife, Fig, 2, O'his knifed line helps to position the chisel later.) ~IARK1NG THE PINS, Next I mark the layout of the pins, Fig. 3, First I mark the position of the half-pins on the two outside edges, and follow by marking the position of the full pins, spacing them gvenly between the half pins, MARKING Tal> ANGLt:S, 1f the drawer front is )lot lipped, the cutting angle can be marked with an adjustable bevel using a 1:5 angle, However, on a lipped drawer fl'On~,the adjustable bevel won't fit, So I 4
define. the chipped ouLwaste, But as you get deeper, the saw cuts simply aren't there anymore. and things start to look a little ragged, Fig, 8, Ljust keep chopping until I reach the lip of the drawer front (the rabbet). Then I use the chisel like a small hand plane to carve the bottom Ievel witll the lip, Finally, you have to clean up the l'llgg!!(1 sides of the pins, Fig, 9, This is sort of a delicate woodcarving operation. Just hold the chisel at an angle and carve in,on tbe sides of the pins (following the pencil lines on the top and end of the board). The hardest part of this operation is getting the sides pithe pins s'llooth and the corners cleaned out, This can take some time, but it's very pleasant work. CUnlNG
THE TAIlS
Once the pins are ct,! and cleaned up, hold the drawer side against the ends of the pins use a template cut from a piece of scrap, Fig. 4, (Fig, 10) and mark the cut lines for the tails To make this template, set the scrap on with a sharp pencil, edge on a table saw and make. l"-deepcut No matter how sharp the pencil is, tbe ~t 11°, Then flip the piece around and make pencil line will always be slightly to the another cut (about 1" away from the first inside (on the "good" side) of where you want to cut, So, when cutting the tails, I one), Finally, clean out the waste between the two cuts, start the cuts about \(",. a,yay (on the waste or "X" side), Pig, 11. . THe SAIl' CUTS, After marking the angled lines, use a small try square to mark vertiC~g'\N otrr WAS'I'E. If the pins on the cal tiiles down to the base line, Then I drawer front are narrow and delicate, the always mark the waste sections between con'es~nding waste sections between the tails \vUl be narrow and delicate, This the pins to avoid confusion, Now grab the tJ-usty saw (I use a Tysak causes problems, If this waste is narrower back saw), and start cutting down the than your smallest chisel, you'll have to lines., Fig,;;, Be sure to set the saw so you turn the chisel at an angle to chip out the cut On the waste side ("X,"-side) of the line, waste, Fig. 12, It only takes a few strokes and almost Only the middle waste sections need be seems like a waste of time because the saw chopped out this way, The outside waste can only 'make a partial cut, But it does sections (for the half-pins) are cut off with a help when the initial chisel-work begins, back saw, CUT 1'HE BASE l.INE, Mer making the THE FIT, If all has gone well, the sides saw cuts, the waste sections are chopped (tails) can be tapped onto the.drawer froot out with a sha7p chisel. The best way to do (pins), [ usually do this with great care, It: this is to use a backing' fence (as shown 'in thejointis too tight, there is the-danger of Woods.nith No. 19), However, we're splitting the drawer .front, showing an alternate method this-time, After tapping the joint about halfway '1'0 define the base line of each waste together, 1 knock it apart and check for section, drag'the point of the chisel until ih black rub m3!'J
Ste~.-By.-Ste~ ~============;:==, HAll PIN
use- X·ACTO
UPPEoD
kNife TO
DRAWER fRONT
DEfINe- BASE'UNE
'/drmuer you"'e worki.'!g with a lippocl After "!a)'kitty wit" pencil.. an Hold edge of ,.IlI",' alollg should61' of 1 front, cllt rabbets to form lip 2 X-Acto ""ife to cut a small u''Oooe. 3.,«b.betto mark position of pins. There first. Then hold sids pi8Ce shoulder Of Late,', ,.he" chopping out waste, ·this should be a Itallpin on ouieide e(ige8a,1d ?/.So
0"
rabbet a.,1d?na"" the base tine for pin«.
0''00116
helps pollition chisal
on base li,Ul.
full,pins evenlll spaced betW68llllleIll. C/lIIYE our
"'V" stOlON
)
Since an awjusi4.bt. bevel ca't'I b. Place draw.. ' frhltt ·in vise alld lISe To establish base li11e,slide chisel into used to mario arzglell, li'les, make a. back·saw w saw marked: lines, knifed lille and tap sf:l'aigh~dolU't1QiU, temp/ale on o,t"ble saw. Set bladeto 1l0to stayimgon "X" (waste)·side of lines. J/. only mallet. 1'het, ca"ej'uLLy carve out as-mal/ ,nuke angled
4
5
TO c/UYP out'lI<1ste,T!(Jsi/iUnt. chisel in
7
"V" and
chop stJ'fJioht dolJ))~. Tnen hold chisel <»! end (witlt. bevel up) and chip out wast. wi/h a light tap.
u'm'l
(/pl."
6
1:4'1/6 SectiollS of luastewill """(Li't in 8 9 the To clean this ou~,lwld 1M d''(J,U!urfi'Ont,usechise; as as'mall plan« to chi~eJat an angle to fat/ow the marked O<»,Unue to chop ou/,.aste belt.ee., pins: Wh." yolt ,·ea.I< thl! lip 0/ the
ca''V8 (mt
receee eve" with lip.
cO>"lf:rS.
lines,
OJId 8l1wOtl<
tM sides of liM 1),(IIS.
DRAWER
SIDE
a,'.
Afler pi'l$ completed, Mid side 1VI!8'~sawing o"t waste, pqs-itioll piece against 6"ds of pi'l$ and 'USe sa,v abam '1n"front tlte'1]aTked lsne. s","'1/ pencil /0 mork: the allgled lilies as Hold saw at a·sttep anul6" nUt ba.s.e.lirteis well es th« base lint for Ihe tails. reached, then. level it Qut to finish /l!tL
10
WQODSM\TH.
11
I/t.heuY1stc sections are toosmallfor you,' smalle.s~ chiset, hold chisel at Il1l{!le. Chip out ·was/e betweBlt tails, ml!i then saw off O1usi.det1l)0 waste sections.
12
5
Machine-Cut Dovetails ONLY YOU AND YOUR ROUTERWILL KNOW If someone walked up to a cabinet-maker 100 years ago-andtold'him there was a way to cut'half-blind dovetails,Utili, '" machine, he probably would have been delighted, All of the time required to cut dovetails by hand, he might reason, could be spent on other (less arduous) laslrs, Nowadays. in this world of machines and robots, we have a tendency to romance that old-time hand-work and disdain modern machine.work. aU,t romance aside,
machine-cut (routed) dovetails do have their place, even in a home shop, If you want to build a cabinet that has a lot of drawers, one of the best (most efficient) way$ to get the job done is with a router and dovetail fixture, DOVETAIL fiXTURES
Once you've resigned yOUI'SeIf to the fact Ihat machine-cut dovetails are not such a terrible thing, all you have to do is collect the tools to cut them. 0nly four things are required: a router, a dovetail bit, a guide bushing (template guide), and a dovetail fixture. This last item (theooveiail fixture) is the key to the whole process. VOVET.UL fL'XTURBS. The fixture that allows you to cut lap (hair-blind) dovetails with a route" is just a comb-shaped ternplate that fits on an aluminum base. 'l'he base has clamping bars to hold the workpieces in place while the router is guided in and out of the "fingers" on the template to cut evenly spaced dovetails on a drawer's front. and sides. Although these fixtures cut dovetails quite efficiently, they have two major drawbacks: 1) they're expensive ($60 to $SO), and 2) they take time to set up. But when you have a lot of drawers to build, a dovetail fixture is probably worth the money because of tbe long-run savings in time. All dcvetail fixtures work about the same way" but in order to avoid some confusion (and repetition), we're only showing the Sears 12" model No. 25'110 in this article. (For an evaluation of three obhel' dovetail fixtures, see page LO.) GUIVE BUSHING. The "outer (and hence the rout er• bit) is guided in and out of the fingers on the comb with the aid of a guide bushing(slso called a template guide). This is just a metal "eoliar " or bushing (with an outer diameter of v..") that mounts to the plastic base on the bottom of the router. The Sears guide bushing, for example, screws to the plastic base \Vi~h three machine screws.
6
The thickness of these pieces doesn't matter too much either. The drawer front and sides can be dUrerent thicknesses, (i.e, a' ;y."cthick h'ont \\~th yt"·thick sides), 01' the same thickness (the front and sides are both 0/." thiek). However, if you're making several drawers, it's very helpful if all similAr pieces are exactly the same thickness. That is, all drawer fronts exactly the.same, and all sides exactly the same. Once you know the final dimensions for the drawer front.~ and sides, you can go ahead and cut them to sise, However, all of the initial work will be done on scrap pieces, which we'll get to later. SETTING UP THE ROUTER
Before you can start cutting dovetails, the router has to be set up. In order to use the dovetail fixture, a 'VI'" outer-diameter guide bllshing has to be mounted to the ROU'l'~R srr. Jli§, for dovetail router bits, they come in two sizes: 14' and Yo'. ,Ve'.re plastic base or$he router. Then, the doveconcentrating-en !4" dovetails in tllis,arti· tail bit can be mounted and adjusted to the cle because the standard template that proper depth o£ cut. comes with dovetail fixtures is made for a The Sears instruction sheet (tba~ comes with the dovelail fixture) says to adjust V." dovetail bit. Since you've alre-ady spent a lot of this dep~h of OUt to "!..,n. But ~" (exactly money on the. fixture, you might as we.U 'hi seems to work better for me, so I empty your pocket and get a carbide- usually start at a y.' depth of cut, and tipped dovetail bit (they're worth the extra fine-tune this setting later, money in this ease). AJ.IGNalEXl'. Once the bit is in place, you may find that It's not aligned with (cenLAYING OUT THE CUTS tered on) the ttl.l'oat of the guide bushing. Onee you have the tools, there's only one Cfhis is a problem with Sears routers beother thing you need - some wood. And cause the mounting holes fo" both the this wood (the drawer front and sides in bushing ana the plastic base are slightly this case) should be cut to final size. lal'gerthan they need to be, which means Since the finished size of the drawer is liley can slide off-center.) To check the alignment, unplug the dictated by the opening in tile cabinet, you don't have much choice here- juSbcue the power cord, and rotate the dovetail bit by hand to make sure itdoesn't scrape against pieces to fit the opening. Also, since the layout for machine-cut the bushing. As you rotate the bit, also dovetails is determined by the dovetail check the distance between the inside of fi.xture, YOU'l'e basicaUy stuck with astatic the bushing and the edge of the bil for the pattern of Yi' dovetails that repeats every entil'e rotation to make sure the bit is 'Yo', see Fig. I. centered. If there aloeproblems, adjust-ruents can HO\VeV6JJ, tner(! is one consideration to keep in mind. Because the dovetail layout be made by loosening the.mounting' screws on the. plastic base or on the bushing,Hnd has a set size, the dimensions orthe-eablnet opening should be planned ahead of time to moving one or both to get the bushing easily accommodate this layout, centered on the bit, I11snice (but not absolutely necessary) if SETTlNG UP THE FIXTURE the drawer Wont is sized for a'pattern bhat puts a half-pin on the top and bottom edge The router is ready to go, but now you (just like the layout for a hand-cut have to set up the dovetail fixture. There dovetail). aloe two options here. The fixture can be TfIE ~l;\TE~JAL. ~s for the wood itself, set up for 1) routing dovetails for a nu~h one advantage of machine-cut dovetails is drawer (the sides are flush with the edges that they can be successively cut in either ofthe drawer fl'Ont), 0" 2) routing dpvetails on a rabbeted drawer front (the sides are solid wood 01' plywood. WOelDSMITH
set in 'Yo" to allow a lip on the drawer front). The only difference between these operations is the position of the small guide pins located on the top and the front edge of the dovetail fixture, see Fig. 4. These pins position the drawer front and side so they're offsct the proper amount for either a flush or rabbeted drawer, Alll~STINC TilE TF.~IPLATE. Next, the template "eomb" is adjusted to position. 'This is partly a matter of measurement and parUy a matter of experimentation. \Vhat 1do is "djllst the template comb so the seat of each channel (finger) is from the front edge of the base, see Fig. 3. (On the Seal'S fixture this is done by tuming an adjusting nut in or out to reposition the template, see Fig. 6) At this point, it would be nice ~ the fixture were ready to rout perfect dovetail joints. But it's not. In fact, you have to do a lot of fiddling around before everything is aligned properly,
ftoUI' 1
:
,
!
knobs to hold it in place. At last, you're ready to cut a trial dovetail.
'~~
,
WIDTH Of"
I
DRAWfR
INCREASES IN
AU you want to do with this trial cut is ~~
INC.R£M£NTS OF '.'"
THE TRIAL CUTS
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holding bar on lhe/rout ofthe fixture), soit can be used to align the drawer frenr, I usually slide this piece against the left guide pin for the trial cut. Next. mount the scrap piece for the drawer front under the holding bar on top ALIGNMENT: TRIAL CUTS of the fixture (also aligning it against the Getting the dovetail fixture aligned re- lell.guide pin), Now push the drawer front quires making' a trial cut, making an ad.. tight up against the side piece, and clamp it justmcnt, OInking another trial CUt,mak- tight. Finally, loosen the fl'Ontbar (that's holding another adjustment, etc" etc, Natul'nUy, all of this should be done on ing the drawer side in place), and I-e posiSCI'lII}\Vood, The length of the scrap doesn't tion the side pi4)CC.0 the tol,)edge is level matter too much as long as it fits in the with the top face of the drawer Iront, see fixture. However, the width and especially Fig. 4, When both pieces are in place. mount the thickness shOUldbe exactly the same as the template comb in the fixture. (Note: the good pieces, I mount the scrap pieces in the fixture the :Yo' spacer thai comes with the Sears with a three-step procedure (refer to Fig. fixture should be behind the arm of the 2), First, the 8<'rap piece for the drawer comb. sec rig. 6). Hold the comb down side is temporarily mounted (under the (IIat) on the drawer front and tighteh the
determine if the router bit and the template comb are positioned correctly. And (or now, let's assume you're "forking with solid wood, and the drawer front is :y.thick and the drawer side is ~" thick, Place the router nat on the comb so the bit is near (but nol touching) the far left corner of tho drawer Ride. Turn on the router and push it (gently) into the first finger. Continue to foUowthe Ongel'S in and out. moving from left; to right. AJ'er you make the last cut on the right side. follow the path in reverse to clean off any spots you may have missed "ith the first pass. Before removing the pieces from the Iilctw-e, cheek them over to make sure you've routed each dovetail evenly. There should be about a ~" lip of wood around each of the fingers. The one problem I usually run into here is that I didn't go deep enough into one of the fingers. If there's a problem like this, return the router to the template and rout out any excess. When lhe template comb is removed. tile routed picceR should look something like what's shown in Figul -e 5. Tt:ST POll .·IT. Once everything looks okay in the fixture, remove the pieces and tap them together. IIyou're very lucky, the pieces will go together perfectly. If you're like me. you'll have to do SOmeadju.sting to get a good fit, fIGURE J
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WOODEN
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TO WORI(BENCH
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WOODSMITH
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ADJu'nNG
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SUP1'Ottt AIM
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7
short. And to correct this. lhe template
MAKING ADJUSTMENTS
"tomb" must be moved in or out.
After the trial cut is made, youll probably be faced with some bad news and some worse new s. The bad uI>W8is that the joint won't fit just righl. And the worse news is that trying to figure out what's wrong-can be very confusing. There can be two basic problems with the fit ofa routed dovetail joint. 1) The tails (the pal'l at' Lhejoint On the side piece) fit too light 01' too loose in the sockets in the drawer fl'ont; 01' 2) the side piece goes into the front piece too far 01' not Iar enough. And now for the good news. There are only two basic adjustments to solve these problems. TOO LOose. If the joint is too loose (the pi= kind of wag around when they're put togl'ther), the depth ofcutis too sbaIIow Jnerease the depth of cut about Y",.. (so the depth is '~i, and test again. TOO TI(;IIT. If the trial cut is too tight (so tight that the joint can't be tapped together), decrease the depth of cut about ¥.t,' (so the depth is '~i. and test the cut again. If you have enough scrap wood (and patience), refine the depth of cut until you're making Q
in this esse.) After milking these adjustments. you should be able to tap the joint together with very light Laps. O£I'TII AllJI.'STMBNT. Once the joint goes together, the "tails" on the side piece may fit into the sockets on the front piece too far or nOLfar enough, see Fig. 7. The cause of this problem is that the sockets in the drawer front arc either too long or too
On the Sears fixture this is done by turning the adjusting nut (located behind the arm of the template comb), see Fig. 6. U this nUL~ turned in (clockwise). the template comb will be moved back (toward the back of the fixture), which means the sockets will be longer, which in turn means the side piece will go farther into the n'Ont piece. Conversely, U'this nut is moved out (eounter-elockwlse), the template will move forward (toward you), and the side piece will not go in as far. ROUTING THf GOOD PlfCfS
Once the joint goes together properly. you're ready to cut dovetails in the good pieces, These pieces should recut to finish size. Then it's best to mark the mating corners on each piece. I just mark an "L" on the inside race of tbe left corner of beth lhe drawer front and the drawer side; and an "R" on the right corner, see Fig. 8. I also mark an arrow to indicate which edge will be the bottom (the edge where Lhe groove for the drawer bottom will be cut.) Then these pieces nre mounted in the fixture inside out. That is, the instdetace of both pieces will be facing out (facing )'ou). Then the pieces lot· the lell. corner of the drawer (marked with an ''J.,'') 1U'e mounted on the loft side of the fixture; and the pieces for the riglu, corner are mounted on the right side of the fixture, Also, the bottom edge of each piece should be agairn
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All of what'. been discussed so far is the typical approach to building a drawer. That is: solid wood drawers with a 'Y,N-thickdrawer front and ~I,..-thicksides. However, there are some situations that change the way you go about things. WORKING wl1'1I PI.YWOOD. As mentioned earlier in this article, machine-cut dovetails can be successfully cut in plywood. And it's a preLty good joint . . . if you accept the fact thaL the "tails" on the side piece are prone to a lot of splintering and chip-out, But the biggest problem with plywood is excessive splintering of the face veneer. Since the face veneer is so thin and fragile, it tends to splinter and chip right along the shoulder of the side piece. 'l'IIlCK 1)1!AI\'fJRSIOE5. The same problem OCCUI'S in solid wood when the drawer sides are thicker than v,". In this case a portion of the drawer side slicks out beyond the ends of the template' "flngers" and the rouuion of lhe router bit chips off this excess material instead of making a clean cut. THE SOI.t!TION. The solution in both cases iM the same. Before pushing tbe router into the fingers of the template, first. make a light p"-"S straight across on the face of the side piece.
L,
, ~
~
SPECIAL SITUATIONS
ROUlt9
OOtStn
GO IN fAR ENOUGH
need for any adjustments because everything was set with the trial cuts. After the dovetail joints are cut. you can cut the groove for the bottom. This groove should be centered on the bettom socket in the drawer front (see fig. 9), so it doesn't show when the joint is assembled.
I
SlOE HALF PIN
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Nonnally, the router is moved from lell to right. But in this case it's best to make the Ii""t pass in the reverse direction start at the right and move to the lell, see ~'ig. 10. As thi~ cut is being made, the rotation of the bit Ilctually pushes the ''Ouoo,· nway from the workpiece, making a vC"y 8h'1110," cut - exactly what you want. The shape of the "outer bit Corms a small "V" groove which establishes a clean shoulder line. Since you can't see what's going on (from a standing position), I kneel down to see under the router's base. (Alway. wear goggles, or better yet, a full-size face maak when doing this - the sawdust will be hurling toward your faee.) Aller this initial light pass, I usually make another pass (ag-ain Crom l'ight to lell) to remove most of the waste on the side piece. Then proceed as before, moving the router in and out of the finge''ll fl'Om lell to right.
the "right" pieces on the right side of the fixture. Then mount the drawer (ronts. However, to stop the router (rom going into the "unused" portion of the (ront, clamp a stop block to the template comb, see Fig. 11. '!'hen rout the same number of sockets as there are "tails" in the side piece.
allows for a :Y." tip on all four edges of the drawer front.) '!'hen subtract V•• to allow (or clearance. '!'he drawer sides are cut a little larger than necessary. For the initial size, measure the height oflhe cabinet opening, add about 11..-, and .UL the.drawer sides to this width, 'I'his extra width wiD be on the top edge of the drawer side, and can be trimRABBETEDDRAWER fRONT med off later. The method for cutting dovetails in a Using the Sears fixture again. mount lipped (rabbeted) drawer front can get con- the drawer front and side the same way (using. We have (our dovetail fixtures in described previously (for a flush drawer). the shop. And the instruetionsfor each one except the guide pin OD top of the fixture is give a differentexpluDlltion of how to make moved to the "B" hole, see Fig. 13. ('!'he arm o( the template comb should be in this joint In a lipped drawer. However, the~' all agree on one thing: fron! of the ¥,. spacer.) you start by cuuing 8 Yo",wide rabbet on Now make the first cuts exactly the the fOUl' edges of tIIo drawer front, The same way a. onaflush drawer. A{tcrthese problem with this method is that the rab- tirst ems arc made, the side piece can be bet creates a g"dpright behind the drawer removed (it's finished), but do )/01 move the u'Onl piece. side, see Fig. 12. Once the router bit "breaks through" the The sockets on the drawer u'Ont need to side piece, there's a strong likelihood of be cut '1'," longer (allow for the rabbet). SHAllOW DRAWER SIDES splintering on the "back" face of tbe Loosen the knob. holding the arms of the One of the options you have with building drawer side. (Since the drawer side is template comb in place, and move the j>" drawers is to trim the sides so they're an mounted 'inside out" the "back" face is spacers in/ront of the eomb arms, see Fig, inch or so below the level of the drawer really the face t hal will show on the outside 14. What all of this does. in effect, is move front. (This was done on the drawers (or of the drawer.) the comb back %. so the sockets in the the modular storage units shown on pH!:,e ANOTHER AIf;TIIOI). To prevent this drawer front, can be routed an extrll 'Y." 12.) The best approach in this case is to splintering, we go about thia whole process tonger, ~'ig.15. rout the drawer Iront and side separately. backwards. Briefly . . . Lhe dovetails al'e After the drawer front is complete, tap I"irst, mount one of the drawei sides, cut first, then the "abbets are cut. Since the two pieces together (Fig. 15), and and a piece of scrap wood where the the drawer front iJ! 1101 rabbeted with this mark lines for the rabbet cuts on the drawer front would normally be. (This method, itserves as a backing piece for lhe drawer front. Go ahead and cut the scrap prevents excessive chipping on the drawer side, and this solves a lot of tbe rabbets, and then trim the top edge of the "hack" side of the eut.) Go ahead and cut all splintering problems. drawer sides to fit flush with the shoulders the side pieces. The first step is to cut the drawer front of the rabbets. You should wind up with a tipped drawer [hat looks something like Note: Be sure to mount all the "Iell" to size. lleasure the opening in the cabinet pieces on the left sideorth. fixture, and all and add Y' to both dimensions. (This the one shown in Fig. 17. flGURE13
DRAW!R..Ff«)NT
RGUlE '" DRAWER flONT
SHIFT TfMPlAlt
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SOCKETS",. D~I'
OM IiTWflH \..O.u.W(1 saD( ANO SHOUlDf,
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f.1QURI 17 DRAWER SIOl!
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FRONT fACE DOWN
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TO MAKE SECOND CUT
WOOOSMITH
MA1UCPOSlnON OF TO' AND BOTTOM I!OGIi OF SIDE
DRAWER SIDE
MAl. THKJ(NESS /OF SIDE:
-BonOM
CORNER
DRAMR FJlONT
9
I
Tools of the Trade DOVETAIL FIXTURES:THE CHOICES, AND OUR OPINIONS When we decided to do the article on cut-
ting lUI)dovetails with a router and dovetail fixture (page 6). we thought it would be a good opportunity to get several rlXturea in the shop to test them out. The Courdovetailfixtures we bought are very similar, Each one cuts lap dovetails with a router, and each can be used with any brand of router (provided it has a v... guide bushing). Bllt after we had a chanee to use euch of them for a while, we began to develop some likes and dislikes. We quickly teamed that three things became the deciding factors Cor our opinion s, T~;)JPLATEADJliSTlIEXT. Ffrst., we looked at the method ofruijusting the ternI plate for the "length" of cut. Thi. a more fiddling around. The Sears Ir model has no provision for this a
The
second
fc.lture we looked at is the method of
switching the template to cut.either a flush Or rabbeted drawer fl·ont. The standard template 011 three of the fixtures (the Sears 12". the Sears 8". and Porter Cable) can be easily switched from one function to the other. However. all three go about it in dilTerent ways. The Sears l2" model use. a 0/.- spacer to reposition the template Cor flush or rabbeted drawer fronts. 011 the Porter Cable model, the template is mounted to a sliding arm that moves In and our by Ieosening holding screws on the back of the arm. There is little diff"mnte in ease of adjustment between these two systems, so we judged them equally "good. ,. The Sears Ir model uses a metal fiJler strip on the template to stop the router for a Ousb drawer. This works fair, and was rated "fair." As for the Boshe model, the Standard template will only cut a Gush drawer front. You have to buy a separate template to eut • rabbeted drawer front.
Mer using etlell lixtul'e [01' a while, we found lhat an Insignificant thing like theknobs made II big difference on the wear and tear on your fingers as you change workpieees. The Perter Cable and Sears Ir models use wing' nuts that are just barely adequate to their purpose: hence the "j>oor" rating. The Sears 12"model has small plastic knobs with deceptively sharp (painful) corners; also a "poor" rating. The Boshe model hll" "uoge"three-wing" plastic knobs which we fQundvery easy to KNOBS.
work with (and easy on the fingers); a Ugood" rating.
The chart below compares the cost oC each fixture, and gi\'es our ratings oCthe featu res. The last column represents our opinion of the instruction. that come with the Iixture. COX(,Lt:SIO~'S. or the dovetail fixture. we tested. our first choice would probably be the Seal'S 12·model. If Sears would just chung" those pain-producing knobs, it would be u very good fixture in all respect •. The Boshe fixture is also quite good except it's expensive to begin with. and then you have to buy two different templates for Oush and rabbeted drawers. The Perter Cable fixture rated in that middle ground. It works, but the Sears and Boshe have better features. As for the Sears Irmodel, it's the cheapest of the bunch, and may be usoful if you plan to usc it only occasionally. 1)1I11,t..')XTI1RF.. One other fixture we looked at (from the Princeton '1'001c~t.nlog) is designed for use with an electric drill. There are two major drawbacks with this fixture: I) it's difficult to duplicate cuts on several pieces because the set-up depend!' on pencil lines; and 2) you're KUPposed to use a 0/... drill rated at 3000 RPM (8 heavy-duty commercial drill). \Ve tried using a lIlakitn drill ()800 RP~I), and have to admit the fixture worked ... very slowly. But the drill alone costs $60. All things consldered, 1 would go with one of the router fixlureij. CHART OF COlU'ARISON.
SEARS 8·. No. 26760
rORTER CABLE. No. 5008
CHART OF COMPARISON FOR DOVETAlt FIXTURES Switch From
Mod.1 Num"r
C",.
UlObl. Width
Tt.mplatt Acfiu5tment
Flu.h to Upped
Kn6b
Inttr.
315.25710
$59.99
12-
good
good
POO'
foit
'otl., Cabl.
SOO8
$47.85
12
fait
good
POO'
good
8""'.
82913
S82.30
12
good
no
good
POO'
S.on ."
720.25760
$29.99
8-
POO'
folr
f>OO'
fait
Princeton
2564
$39.95
5-
fair
faIr
NlA
fair
Brand S.on
10
12'"'
I~
PRINCETON. No. 2661
WOODSMITH
____
S_h_o~Notes SOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP
We decided to use plywood for both the major projects in this issue. And as it turned out, the decision to usa plywood was a mixed blessing. Although.there are a lotof'advautagesto using-plywood - no gluing of random sized pieces of lumber, no planing is required, and the amount of Ume r'equired (01' •• project is usuatly reduced-« there we also several disadvantages. Plywood has a nasby habit of splintering, it comes in very awkward sized sheets, and the exposed edges always present a problem. While we were building the cabinet/ hutch and the modular storage. system f()!' this issue, we came up with few "tricks" to help solve some of these problems. PANEL CUTTING JIG
In Wootismitlt. No. 18. we showed the panel cutting' jig we use when we need to cut large wockpieces on our tabla saw. \Vhat 'prompted us to change its design was a nagging problem that kept popping up - the runner kept binding in tbe miter gauge groove. This caused the jig to "jitter" as the cut was made, causing a "burned" edge. 'We changed the design on a ne'" pal.,el
grained wood Oike oak) is used for·the face veneei of plywood, it will splinter (to some extent) no matter what saw blade is used. The trick. we use to eliminate this problem is simple: we apply masking tape over the layout lines on the plywood. This gives the face veneer enough support to keep it from being torn out. by the saw blade. Then we cut the plywood in the normal manner and remove the tape slowly, pulling;t toward the edge. ThIS method eliminates splinte.l'i(lg evw;y time. ROSAN INSERTS Pi. rosan insert (also called a threaded insert) is a handy little piec~ of'hardware ...
and a pain in the heck. These little gizmos are designed with thread. on both the Inside and outside - so you can use the outside threads to screw itlnto.a hole, and the inside threads to mount a bolt. 'rhe problem, is in trying to screw them
ers' Sto,·e.) adheres better, and is easier to use. than all:' other brand we've hied. APPLIOATION. men applying: veneer tape, the firsbstep is to cuta strip about 14' loilger than is needed. (I use a pair of old SCiS"Ol'$I keep around the shop, and they seem to work just fine.) To apply the veneer tape. heat lip an iron to the "cotton" setting. Lay the veneer tape on the plywood with one edge o( thg tape flush with one face of the plywood. T)ieltslowly move the iron down the length orthe veneer tape to "melt" the adhesive. Immediately aft:er.passing the iron over the tapjl, 1 press it in place with a small pine block. 'This block also absorbs heat to "set" the adhesive .. MISTAK:&S.One of the nicest things about iron-on veneer tape is that it's easy to fix mistakes. AU you have to do.is to go over it again with the iron. This softens the adhesive so that the veneer can be lifted and repositioned correctly. TitillAtING. After the adhesive has cooled (about a minute 01' so), the veneer overhan~ng one edge of the plywood can be trimmed flush witb a sharp chisel. Hold ti)e chisel so theilat side is agains! the face of the plywood and slowly push it into the
into the hole. They have screwdriver-slots SlOP $loc;l(
on the "shank,' but because the rosan insert, is hollow these slots are only on the
~OLDCHISEL FWSH very outside edges. This means there's an AGAINSr fACE Of PlYWOO~ extremely smaU area of contact between the serewdnver and the slots. ~~ Then to add to the pl'oblem, rosan inserts are made out of brass, which is relatively soft. This all adds up to a real chance of stripping out the slots before .the I Inserts are cO.mpletely seated. VENEER fAIt GUIDE BOLTeD TO WING The procedure I use to mount rosan tnserts is two'fold. Fir.st I coat the threads cutting jig by adding a second runnel' that, with bee's wax (or soap) to reduce the veneer tape (cutting with the grain). As rides along the outside edge of the table fricton between the threads and the wood. long .as the chisel is held flush against the saw's wing. This second runner helps keep 1;hen instead of using the slot in the body of plywood, it will trim the edge without the jig lined up with the blade and it also the insert, Iscrew a machine bolt all 'the gouging the p!ywood or the veneer tape. keeps the first runnel' from binding in the way into the insert.iand use it to SCl'eW the SQUARE ENIlS. There are times when the miter gauge groove. insert into the wood. veneer tape needs to be cut square on one On some table saw models, there are end to butt against another piece. To do IRON-ON VENEER TAPE boles on the outside edge of the wings. To this, 1 use a tittle trick tliat requires notbkeep the heads orthese bolts from catching Ancther' major problem with using 'ing more than a 1" chisel. the new runner, we bolted a piece of wood, plywood is trying to hide the exposed Stand the chisel 'On the veneer tape so to the outside edge of the wing, counter- edges. One of the easiest wa~s is with you can look straight into the flat side of boring to recess the heads of the bolts. Iron-on veneer tape. (This was used on the the chisel. You should see a reflection of modular storage system, page 12). the-two outside edges of the veneer tape. THE MASKING TAPE SOLUTION Iron-on veneer tape is just a thin piece of The trick is to twist the chisel until the One of the most ann,!ying problems with veneer about 't,' wide and has heat- edges of the tape in the reflection are in a plywood is that it splinters along the edge activated adhesive on one side. straight line with-the edges of the yen eel' as it's being cut. The most common reacAlthough there are several different in frontofthe chisel. \Vhen'both edges look tion to this problem is. to blame the saw types of iron-on tape available, Edgemate like one continuous straight line, the chisel blade. Unfortunately, when an open- Real \Vood edging (sold by Tire Woodw01'k· is positioned to cut a·square end.
WOODSMITH
11
Modular Sto~e Systetn MIX AND MATCH A MILLION WAYS
V.,'SaWe is the best word to describe this modular slo"age system. Not only can the individual units be arranged in any order, but the components (the doors, drawers and shelves) are completely interchangeable between units. Besides just being versatile, the design nJlowseach unit to be made out of a single sheet of lV,' plywood. (I 4'x4' sheet of V," plywood, and some specialty hardware, On page 15 we've shown three cutting dia((rnm. utilizing the same basic box, but with different combinations of the interchangeable eemponents-cdrswers, doors. and shelves. Although these three cutting diagrams are very efficient, they definitely do not represent the only combinations. If more than one unit is being made, the cutting dingra ms can be adapted to fit the combination you want. 'l'here's one other thing I should mention at the start. 'l'o eliminate the nagging problem of plywood splintering. we used lhe router table (shown in WoodsmitftNo. 20) to cut the "joints" for these units. So, you mighl ccnslder building the router table to help with this project. THE BASIC BOX
The basic box consists of six pieces: LIte sides (AI. the top and bottom (B), and the
center divider (Cl. These six pieces are cut from approximately 2/3'$ of a uS sheet of ". plywood. So. the tir~t step is to cut the plywood into three pieces: 2&Y," long. as" long, and 350/,." long ,,. shown in the Cutting Diagrams. 'l'hese measurements nre rough dimensions, providing about v,' leeway on each piece. After the three pieces cut. set aside
.'"e
12
the 35W' piece (for the components) until the baslc box is built. The remaining two pieces arc rough cut into six panels 15'1fl"·wide.Then two of these panels (one that's 2&\I.i" long for the center divider, and one that's 35" long fo,' the shelves) are trimmed to final width: 160;.."wide. The other fOIll'panels are trimmed to ISV," wide for the sides (A) and the top and bottom (0). To keep things straight, follow the cutting diagram and label all of the pieces right after they're cut. Now all six pieces are cut to their finished lengths using a panel jig on the table saw (see Shop Notes. page 11). Cut the tOP and bouom sections 34W long, and the center divider and both sides 24V. long. CENTER OI\'IO&R. Since the interchangeability of the drawers and doors relies on the inside measurements of'each side of the box being t~actly the same, the center divider must be perfectly centered on the top and bottom pieces. The WILY I made sure that the dado for the center c1ivid&,'was exactly centered was to cut it with a route,' and a simple jig, see ~'ig. 2. 'rhis fence is just a piece of plywood cut to length so it guides the base of the router down the center of the workpiece. It works great , .. if it's exactly centered on the workpiece. To make sure it is centered. Iclamped the fenee on one end of lhe workpiece and made II cut Ihat just barely entered the back edge of the plywood. Then 1moved the fenee to the opposite end of the workpiece and checked to see if the location of the bit WIIS exactly on the first cut. The fence may have to be adjusted until the dado is dead center 011 the workpiece. 'rilE CORNEll JOt:;,·. The joint used to connect the sides with the 101>and bottom
is a rabbeted tongue/dado, see Detail A in Fig. J. '1'0 make this joint, rout the dado on the top and bottom pieces lirst. Using a %' bit, I set the fence Onthe router table 'h" from the closest edge of the bit and the depth of the cut at %", (This V," measurement allows for a y." over-hang on the ends of the top and bottom pieces.) After the route- table is set up, cut the dado on both ends of the top and bottom pieces. Now: This cut should be on the same side 85 the dado for the center divider, THE TOSCt:FS To cut the tongue on the side pieces. set the fence %" from the jarlhesl t'dge of the bit. This set-up will cut a rabbet, which in tum leaves the tongue you want. 1 had to make several trial cuts (using scrap) until the tongue fit properly in the dado. When the router table is adjusted, cui tongues on both ends ofeach side piece (A). (Note: the l-ablllll,is cut on the "outside" of the ~ide pieee. Noll', to cut the tongue on the center divider, you have to adjust the depth ofcut of the bit (but don't move the fence), This tongue is formed by cutting a double rabbet so the tongue is centered on the thickness of the plywood, see Detail B inFig. L (You shouldn't move the fence for this cut because the shoulders ofthe rabbets on the center divider must tine up with the shoulders on the side pieees.) RABBETS FOR BACK. At this point, the only thing lel\ to do ts cut the rabbets for the plywood back, Once again Iused a %" straight bit on the reuter table. Figure 8 shows how the rabbet far the plywood back is stopped at the dadoes at beth ends of the top and bottom pieces.
Y'
WOODSMlTH
This double stopped rabbet is really fairly easy to cut on the router table by marking "start" and "stop" lines on the fence. To make these cuts, slide the workpiece sideways into the bit, usingtne "strut" line as a reference point to start tbe cue. Theil cut the rabbet down the length of the workpiece, moving (rom j'ight to left. As you approach the "stop" mark, feed the workpiece very slowly. As tbe bit begins to break into the dado, it'llbave a tendency to jump forward and cut too far. These. double-stopped rabbets a,-e only cut on the back edges of the top and'bottom pieces (B). The rabbets on the sides (A) don't have to be stopped, see Fig. 3. ASSEAtBLY. Now the six pieces of the cabinet can be dry-clamped to cheek for fit. After I goteverything to fit,1cut.a piece of :Yo{' scrap plywood exactly to the. Inside measurements of opening on one side of the unit. As you glue the unit together, use the plywood insert to keep the cabinet square as the clamps are tigbtened. DRII'.I.lNG TEMPLATE. After che cabinet is assembled, the nex~step is to· make a drilling' template to drill the holes for the shelf supports and the drawer runnel'S. To make this template, 1 used tbe piece of plywood that was used when the cabinet was clamped toge.ther. Fil'St, I laid out the position of the holes on the template, and marked the top and fr.ont edges on both sides, see Fig. 4. Then 1 used a POI'talign attachment on a hand. drill to drill the 14' holes. When the template is complete, clamp it to oneof the inside faces or the cabinet, and use a Portalign to drill the V,"-deep holes. Then move the template ttl the other inside face" and eventually to both faces of the center divider. As the template is relocated, always keep the top of the template at the top of the cabinet, and thefront of the template lined up with the front edge of the cabinet, TilE BAS,E. !'fow it's time to retrieve \pe 35%' piece of ply.wood that was set aside. Rip two 2V,·-wide pieces for t\1e base, and cut them to length, see. Fig. 5. Aftel' the pieces are cut to size, the comers are joined with a rabbeted tongue! dado joint. l'hen the base is assembled and set.aside. until after tbe shelves, drawers, and doors are cut, which should produce some scrap for the COrner blocks. V.ENEF.RTAP~. There are only two things left to do to the basic box and the base. First, apply veneer tape to all. the exposed edges on thefront and sides of the box, and the front edges of the base. (For more information on applying veneer tape, see Shop Notes on page 11.) The lash step is to cut a piece of v.' plywood for the back, and tack it into place. (The back is cut from a 4",4 sheet of ~. plywood. The lefl:.over scrap is used for the drawer bottoms.) WOODSMlTH.
RGUR;E1
NOT6 POSITIONDADO TO
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DETAIl. OF BACK C::OaNER TO eDTIOM Of CABIN,a
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DETAil OF JOINT FOR BASt: fRAME
13
AGURE 6
-
-
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Now it's decision time. The units are designed so that either the drawers, doors, or shelves will work in any position, and in any combination. The Cutting Diagrams show three possible combinatiol1$ that can be cut from the plywood that remains alter building the basic box. TlIE SHELVES- The shelves (D) are the easiest of the three components to make. In fact, other than cutting them to size to fit the cabinet, all that needs to be done is to apply veneer tape to lhe front edge of each shelf. Then lhe shelves are mounted in the cabinet with small "paddle" shaped supports that fit in the y,. holes. RECESSED DOORS. The recessed doors are about as simple to make as the shelves thanks to a nifty little hinge called a pivot binge. What really makes this hinge so special is that it only requires a Va." hole chilled in the cabinet (which tran~lntes into 110morti8e8).
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A plastic socket (that comes with the hinge) fits into this v....hole. Normally, lhe shoulder on this socket provides II V,," clearance so the door doesn't rub on the cabinet. But in the event that the unit is rearranged so a door is replaced with drawers, I had to make a small change in the w~ this hinge is mounted. To get the plastic socket out ofthe way, I had to recess it in a counterbore and odd a small washer, see Fig. 7. Now, the doors (E) can be cut to size, allowing for twice the total thickness of the washer, the pivot half of the hinge, and the veneer tape. After the doors have been cut, apply veneer tape to all four edges. Then serew the stationary half of the hinge to the bsck of the door (see Fig. 7), and push the pivoting half ofthe hinge into the plastic socket . THE DRAWERS
We laid out the cuts for the drawer fronts so there would be a continuous grain pat.tern from one to the next, see Cutting Diagram. Then, since we were making several drawers, we decided to use a router Jixture to cut lap dovetails to join the drawer fronts to the sides. However, there is one precaution when making tMse cuts. The drawer sides are about ¥Co less in width than the drawer fronts. So, when cutting the lap dovetails (see page 6), be sure to use a stop on the dovetail fixture so only 6 sockets are cut on the drawer front (F) to match the 6 pins in the drawer sides (G), see Fig. 6. ORAWER BOTroM AND B~CK. AftAlr the lap dovetails are cut, go ahead and cut the groove for tbe drawer bottom so it's centered on the bottom socket of the drawer front, see Fig. 6. Then cut the drawer back (H) to size (see Fig. 8) and join it to the sides with a rabbeted tongue/dado joint. WOODSMITH
TIlE GROOVES. Finally, a groove must be
CUl in the drawer sides to accept the drawer guides. This groove is~" Wide, 'IIi' deep and is positioned on the drawer sides so that it's centered 3" from the bottom edge, see Fig. 8. The easiest way to CUt this groove is on the router table, UShlg a stop block to stop the gnoove.just short of the dovetail pins, see Fig. 6. After cutting a 14"plywood bottom (I), the drawers can be glued up. Then the last step is to apply veneer tape to the top edges of the drawer's front and sieles.
of the groove ill the drawer sides, and then they're trimmed to fit the width of the
groove,
To determine the length of the guide, insert it in tlie groove iii the drawer side and mark where the guide meets the back edge ofthe drawer sides. Then cut it.to this le~gtII. ~IOUNTING"UE CL'll>ES. '('0 mount the drawer gUides, counterbore a shallow hole for a washer, and-then drill a'ii.· pilot hole Cor the #8-32 bolt that screws into tbe rosan inS
THE DRAWER GUIDE SYSTEM
MATERIA~SLIST
I've mentioned how aIJ the components are interchangeable, but the flexibility of the drawer guides is really the slickest part. Thedrawer guides at.. held inplace with a small bolt that screws into a threaded (rosan) insert. If you want to change tbe position of the drawer, all you have to do is unscrew the bolt,and move the rosan insert U> the new position. CUTTINGTHE GOIDES. To make the guides (J), start by rounding over the end ofapiece ofhatdwood that's apout 15" long and 5' wide. (I used the router table and a ~" rounding over bit to do this.) The individual guides are then sliced off so they'L.. about V,,,,' thicker than the depth
OvemU Dimensions: x 34'h'W x lS'h"'O 0/.... x lSV," . 247~1o A 80. Sid•• (2) 8 Box Top{Botlom (2) ,"' .. x lS~"· 34112" 28%"L
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Thi~ '>',iI' hole illthe.drawer guide is 18~ge enough so there's some "play" around the #8·32 bolt. When the guides are attached to the cabinet. they can be adjusted UI>01' down so the drawers are evenly spaced, see Fig. 9. FlNISlllNG. We finished these units with Watto Danish Oil because it produces a nice natural finish and doesn't clog the holes in the cabinet. THE HARDWARE Alloithe bard ware for the units tame from two sources: Tlie Woodwo,k.rs' StOl'C, 21801 Iudustnial Blvd., Rogers. ~fN 55374, and lVoodc.-cifI Supply Co,·p.. 313 Montvale Ave" Woburn, A~, 01888. From The Woodworklll'8Store: For each drawer and each door: (1) Oak WU'e,Style Pull. Stock # 1)5620, $S.95@ For each door: (1) pr. Pivot Hinge for Wooden POOI"$, Steck #0 D56oo, $1.9;; PI'. (1) Roller Catch, Stock # D4$OO,~.60@ Eor each s/relF. (4) Shelf Supports, v.,' pins, Stock # D.9154, $.12@ For each unit: (5) rolls Edgemate Wood Edgillg, $2.60 per 8' roll From Woodc."o/lSupply: For each drawer: (4') v..' Outside Diameter 'i'hreaded inserts, Stock #12K41·FT, ;s
NOTE.:tACH UN.ll REQUIRES ONE SHEET v.. OAK PlYWOOD
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Router Table NOW IT CAN STAND ALONE "'hen we built the bench-top router table (shown in IVood.mith No. 20), I thought it would be a helpful little addition to the shop. Iwas wrong. '!'his router table has become almost indispensible. In fact, we've used it on almost every projeet we've built for the last three issues, Okay, 1'U stop the sales pitch. But I wanted to mention aU of this for a reason, Once the router table was in operation for a while, we found that we were using it mere (and for longer periods) than a router by itself, This could present a problem, Most of lbe small (tow-horsepowerdcw amperage) routers on the market today won't hold up to this kind of constant (prolonged) usc, With that in mind, we've been testing out several routers to see how they perform, The three we like the most lire: Sears Craftsman I Hp. No, 316,17460, the Rockwell 7,6Amp, No, 6761, and the Makita 8,6 Amp, No, 3001B, Most of the time we usc the Sears route" _ especially ie we're working on 80m~~ thing that requires frequent changing bits, This particular Sears route: is relatively new, and it has one very good rea· ture, There's II locklunlock switch that holds the collet in place when you want to change bits, This means you only need one wrench (and one hand) to tighton lhe collet nut, That's a great help, especially when the router is mounted under the table where it's a little awkward to gel to, This Sears router works fine most of the time, but when we know we're going to be giving the router table a good work-out. we usuaUy switch to the Rockwell (which is now caUed Porter Cable) or the Makita, Both of these arc eommereial-duty mao chines. built to hold up during prolonged use,
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THE BOTTOM LINE. All of that sounds great, Don, But what if I can't afford the luxury of having three or four routers in my shop? [suppose it ge!..~down to how much you plan to use the router (and the router table). I personally would buy the Sears router (when it's on sale), Although it's made with 8 lot of plastic, it's a good deal for the money, and it does what it's supposed to do, However, if you do a lot of woodwork. ing, Iwould seriously considerinvestingin either the Rockwell or the Makita router, As you might expect, both of these routers are a tad on the expensive side, but they're worth it in the long run, PROBI.,&lIS, Enough talk about routers. Now. back to the router table, After we featu,rOOthe plans for the bench-top router table, we received some letters asking for
clarification Onhow the Cence is mounted in the guide slots, Figure 1, below. should give a better picture of how the fence is mounted, The original design calls (or cutting the table top 21" deep (from front 10 back), while the support arms are only 19"' long, Since the support arms arc mounted flush to the back edge oftbe table, thi.lcaves a 2"' gap on the front edge, The reason for lhisgap is to allow enough room ror the carriage bolt and the plywood washer that hold the fence in place, The fence is mounted to the table ,,1th 2".long carriage bolts, wing nuts, and "shop-made" v.- plywood washers, These plywood washers arc cut to size to fit in the groove in the support arms, Then they're pressed over the square shoulders on the bead of the carriage bolts, Since there's no way to ge~ a wrench inside the grooves (to hold the bolt when it's tightened), the plywood washer' serves this purpose, The was he,' binds (twists against the sides of the groove) to stop the bolt fl'om twisting as the wing nut is tightened, DIRECTION OF FEED
Once you start using the route,' table, there's one thing that seems to cause some confusion (especially fa" me): the diJ'CC· tion of feed, There are three general rules that help me keep things straight (refer to Fig, 2): 1) If the cut is being made on the >!ear side of the bit (the side oflhe bit closest to you), feed the workpiece (rom right to lell, as shown in 2a and 2d, 2) If the cut is being made in the middle of a workpiece, the direction of feed is also from right to lell, as shown in 2b, 3) However, if the cut is being made on
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GROOVES FO. MASONfJE BACk GLUE ANO NAIl-
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LEGS AND STORAGE
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After building the bench-top version, we
quickly discovered that we wanted to make this router table a permanent member of the shop. So we added some legs and a storage cabinet for bits and attachments. THE LEGS. The leg units consist of three pieces: two uprights and a pedestal. These three pieces can be cut Roomone 2x4, 8' long. (Sc you need two 2x45, one for each side.) Istarted by tutting the legs to a length of36'. However, lhe length of the legs can (should) be changed so your router table fits yo". One way to judge the right height is to stand with both hands out- as if you were pushing a board along the top of tbe table. Hold that position, and with yow' third hand measure the distance to the noor. This should be the height that's right for you. Onco you've determined the table height, subtract 1" (for the thickness of the top), and cut the legs to this length. Then CUt halt-lap joints at the lOp and bottom of each leg, see Fig .• J. Note: The original design of the benchtop router table has II cross brace under the table top which will be in the way when you try to mount the legs. Trim about ]. 0(1' eaeh end of this brace so there's enough room to get the legs fastened to the support arms. TH!! I'EOESTALS. AIle,. cutting the legs. use the stock that remains to make the two pedestals. First, cut notches in these pedestals to mate with the half-laps in the legs. Then use Y... xliI,"lag screws to fasten the legs to the pedestals and the support arms. (If your shop floor is uneven. it helps to tack small Y.t plywood pads at both ends of the pedestals.) STORAGE CABI....ET. '1'0 store router bits and attachments, Ibuilt a simple plywood box to fit between the legs. Nato: this box also help~ stabilize the legs. If you don't want to build the storage box. you should add cross braces to tie the legs together to prevent "racking." The pieces for this box are cut from 2' x 4' sheet of :V,' plywood, see Fig. 3. The length of the top and bottom pieces will probably have to be altered (from the dimensions shown) to fit your router table. Measurc the distance between the legs (at the top), and cut the top and bottom pieces for !.he box to that measurement. Next, cut the sides 10 size, and join them to the top and bottom with a simple rabbet joint, see detail in F'ig. 3. The last step is to cut two doors lind mount them \\;th butt hinges. Then the box is bolted to the legs with carriage bolts.
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Euro~eanCabinet & Hutch A CONTEMPORARY VERSION OF A CLASSIC CABINET I feel right at home with this cabinet. (guess it's because the design combines all the things ( like best. In fact. "eombination"is sort of the key word for this project because it incorporate s s everal different (yet compatible) design features and a fuil range of woodworking techniques. For example, there arc ghu's doors on the hutch, while the base cabinet has paneled doors using woven cane. The shelves in the hutch are stationary (they're set into dadoes), while the shelf in the base cabinet is moveable. And this whole PI'ojeet is built with a combination of oak-veneer plywood lind solid oak, Yet all of these design features seem comfortable with one another. And granted, there's a lot of work Involved, but building this cabinet is really the best combination of all: it's both fUll and challenging. THE BASE CABINET
I started construction on the base cabinet by cutting the sides (A) and the bottom (C) out of a sheet of 0/,' oak plywood, see CuUing Diagram. TII& 1)'\001>:;, Once the sides CA) arc cut, the next step i$ to cut three dadoes (sec Fig. 1) to join the two web frames and the plywood bottom, Sinee these sides are plrwood, you'll get the cleanest cut with a router. (1 used the router Lable to cut these dadoes, SUI you can achieve the same thing by clamping a remporary fence to each piece to guide a hand-held router.) '!'he top dado is \4" wide, \4" deep, and is centered :y.. down from the top edge, sec Fig. 3. The next dado is cut so it's centered 6%" below the top one. (This 6'1'." measurement is the distance between the center of the top dado and the center of the second dado. Thus, there should be 6'K<" between the two dadoes.) Finally, there's a \I.," x V," dado on the bottom, centered Zy,," from the bottom edge. After this bottom dado is cut, ~wo grooves are cut to intersect with it, These
18
grooves are for the base boards. and arc centered 'YoI" from the front and back edges, sec Figs, 1 and 5. The last step is to drill a series of 14" holcs in each side (A) for the adjustable shelf brackets, see Fig. 1. 1drilled these holcs ~. deep, using a Portalign attachment on a drill (being very careful not to drill all the way through the side piece). THE WEB FRAMES
Next the two web frames at the top of the cabinet are built. Normally web frames are constructed of solid wood using mortise
and tenon joints, Sut I had some:y.- plywood Icft over, so I used it instead of solid wood. Then to make the joinery a little easier (and much faster), I used a modified version of a mortise and tenon, Istarted by cutting a total of four rails eE) 2" wide and 84" long from some of the plywood scrap, see fig, 2, Thcn J cut the four end stiles (F) 2" wide and 11~"long, and two middle stiles (G) 4" wide and II V,' long. All that'S required to join these pieces is a groove in the rails (long pieces) and a "stub" tenon (which is just n simple tongue) on the ends of the stiles (short pieces), (Note: the dlmensions given for the stiles include the amount necessary fOr the stub tenons.) All ten of'thcsc pieces have a \4/1 x v..,.. groove ctll down the center of the inside edge, This groove serves IIYOpurposes, On the top web frame. the groove is SOI't of a replacement for mcrtises. The same is true on the second web frame, except the groove also serves to hold the plywood dust panels in the frame, After these grooves are cut, the rails arc complete, Next you have to cut stub tenons on the ends of the stiles. STVB rsxcxs. All six stiles have a 14- long stub tenon cut at both ends to fit in the grooves. Cutting these tenons is simply a matter of cutLing two rabbets (one on the top face and one on the bottom face) at both ends of the stiles, \\'hat's left. is a stub tenon (or a tongue) that fits in the grooves, Before assembling the two web frames, cut a notch exactly in the center of each of the rails (El), sec Fig, 4. (This notch is needed to join the vertical divider stiles
later.) THE PANELS. Dry-assemble both web frames at this point, and get the measurements for the v." plywood dust panels for the second frame (the one below the drawers). Once these dust panels are cut, dry-assemble this fl'arne once again to rest thc fit.
WOOOSMITH
AS::;£MBL r, Now go ahead and glue-up the two frames. After the glue is dry, both frames should be exactly the same If they're not. trim the largest one down to tile same size as the smaller one. Then eut the "'c" plywood bottom (C) to match the dimensions of the two web frames. (Also cut. notch centered on the front and back edges of the plywood bottom to mateh the notches in the frames.) Tilt: TONGUES. Now lhe two web frames and the plywood bottom need tongues on the ends to male with the dadoes in the cabinet sides. Once again. cut tWO rabbets (one on each face) at both ends of these three pieces. This should leave a tongue that fit.' in the dadoes in the side pieces. I used the router table to cut these tongues. But no matter what tool you use. it's best to make all the cuts at the same time. Since the two web frames and plywood bottom are trimmed to the same size to bellin with, if the rabbets (tongues) are all eut the same, you'll be sure the measurement from the shoulder of one rabbet to the shoulder ot the other rabbet is lhe same on all three pieces. TIli; 111\II)EII STI~&'~.The last step is to cut two solid wood divider stiles (M) for the front und buck of'the cabinet. Half-laps are cut in these stiles to mate with the notches that were cut in the web frames and the plywood bottom. However, the halt-lap should be cut so the fnce of the stile sticks out about y,." to allow for the thickness of the veneer tape that will be added to the front edge of Ihe rails, see Fig. 4. THE u.\S.: 1I0AROS. The last step is to cut two base boards. As shown in Figure 5, these board. are trimmed so tIle~"re Y." abort ofthc bottom dado (to leave room Cor the plywood bottom). AS.';£~IULY.No" you're ready to glue-up the cabinet. This requires a lot of clamps. (I used eight pipe clamps in aU.) The divider stiles should be PUI in place to hold the frames steady while tightening the clamps, but [ didn't actually glue them in until later, Now thc base cabinet is complete, except fa" Ih~ plywood top. But before adding the top, I went to work on the hutch.
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the plywood top and bottom (J), and the two plywood shelves (K) are cut to ~ize. The length of these pieces should be exactly the same as the web frame and the plywood bottom on the base cabinet, 'fhin way you'U be certain the hutch is Ih.same width as the base cabinet (In Cact. these pieces can be cui at the same time.) 'l'hen the double rabbets can be cut to Corm tongues to fit the dadoes. RABBETSt'OR O,\(;Ii. The last step on the top, bottom, and the sides is to cut II," x 1(,. rabbets are cut on the back edge fo,. Ih~ plywood back. sec fig. II. The only dif· ficult part is cutting the rabbets en the sides because they must be stopped at both ends when they intersect with the dadoes. TOI'Gm: FORum.L.'
I GROOVE
TO"GU'~
Yo- RASSET'OR
DIVIDER STILE. Before assembling the
hutch. cut notches in the top and bottom (J) Cor the divider stile. Then go ahead and cut this stile (N) to lenJrth. Also cut halC.laps to fit the notches. and dadoes to fit the tongues on the shelves, sec Figs. 8 and 10. DOOR AND DRAWER FRAMES
TONGUE
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Fig. 9.
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As with the base cabinet, the sides of the hutch are cut to size first. Then dadoes are cut for the hutch's top and bottom (.1) and the two shelves (K). see fig. 6. (Once again, aU the measurements shown are to the center of the dadoes.) C=G THE DAOOSS.. The dadoes at the top and bottom edge ofthe sides (I) are cut all the way through (from front to back). which is relatively easy to do on the router table, or with a router equipped with an edge guide. However, the dadoes for the shelves are stopped from the front edge, see Fig. 9. To ensure that the dadoes line up perfeetly on both sides. I clamped the tIVOsides together - back edge to back edge. Then 1 clamped a fence across both of them to guide the router. \Vith this method r had to plunge lhe router to start the cut 14- from the left. edge, and then stop it 14" from the right edge. THE TOr. UO'M'OM AND susi.ves.
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THE HUTCH
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The hutch and the base cabinet have mitered frame doors, and the drawers have mitered frame false fronu;, sec Fig. 12, AU cf these frames are built the same way - with a miter/spline joinl. (See lVoodsm,U, No, 21 ror complete step-bystep on cutting this joint.) Although the joinery for these frames is easy. gelling them to fil exactly right can be II liltle nerve-racking, Ibuilt each of these frames so they were just a scant v.~' larger than needed. Once the pieces fOI'the Irumes UI'e miteJ'cd to WOODSMITH
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length, cut the gt'OO"es for the splines. Then cut. Yo" wide. ~. deep rabbet on the inside back edges of all the pieces. At last. the six frames can be glued up. SflUNlS CANE PAN£LS. The frames for the base cabinet and the drawers have 14" plywood panels, cut to fit loosely in the frames. These panels are covered with sheet (prewoven) cane. The best way to apply this cane to the plywood is to soak it in warm water until il becomes pliable (Ltet itsoak for about 30 minutes). Then while it's still wet, stretch it OVeJ' the plywood and staple it down with a staple gun. [ used a lot of staples, placing them shoulder to shoulder all around the perimeter of the plywood. \Vhen the cane drie~. it will stretch ~ery Ught and should be nat against the plywood. Then lhe panels can be mounted in the door and drawer frames with small wooden Slops, see Fig. 13. TII£ CLASS. I took the frames for the fOl HUlCH hutch to a local glass store and had them cut the glass to size. (Don't.install the glass yet, the frames have to be trimmed first.) TRIM TO $IZf:. Once the four door frames DOOR fOR HUTCH 810e assembled cut mortises fo,' the hinges. (There 8"C two hinges on each of the base cabinet doors, and three hinges on each of the hutch <1001'S.) Temporalily mount the frarnes to those hingos, DOOR '-OR U5.' CAalNET AND FALSI ,ItONr In the finAlstage. of this pl'ojeet (aft.e,. I.!.' 'OR DRAWER the drawers and bullnose molding are added) you have to trim all the frames to size. This is just a matter of using a hand AGUtEIS plane to skim off just enough around the DRAWER CONSTRUCTED WITH edges to allow clearance. Afu.r all the STOCK frames fit, round over the outside edges VINYl GUIDE with a ~. corner-round router bit.
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fiGURE T4
THE DRAWERS
The two drawers for lhe base cabinet are built of W stock. I used a router and dovetail fixture to cut lap dovetails to join the drawer fronts to the sides. Then I cut a rabbeted tongue/dado to join the drawer back to the sides, sec detail, Fig. 15, If you don't want to usc lap dovetails on the drawer l\'Ont, rabbeted totigueldado joints can be used at all four corners. Once the drawers II,'e built, the false front is screwed in place. As shown in Figure 16, mnke sure the bottom edge of the frame extends below the bottom edge of the sides of the drawer. ORAWER CCIOt:s. The guide system for these drawers is easy. Simply cut a notch in the middle of tho drawer back (before the drawers arc assembled) and pop in a stem bumper (vinyl guide). or a thumb tack. Then cut two drawer guides
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MATERIALS LIST P
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Sid., (21 Cobin •• Top tt) Cobin., Bottom (1) Coblnel Shelf (I) Web Fram. Roil. (4) w. F. StU.. (41 w. F. Center 5111., (2) Cobinet 60.. 800rd (2) Hulch Side. (2) HUlChfopla.m (21 Hutch Shelve. (2)
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Cab. Door $til •• (4)
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From the y." Plywood
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From the solid oak:
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Draw.r Panels (2) 0"". Ponel, Drawer Bottoms
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the base cabinet. and lh. false lop (L) for the hutch. To gel the Ilnal length ofboth of these pieces. measure the width of the cabinet and add Y:t (for the tongues). Por the linal width (front to back mC;l.'1U1'ement) add Vo" fOI'the tongue, and "YI." fol' tbe thickness of the door frames. UULI.NOSE MOLDING. 'rhe exposed plywoodedges of these two tops plus the hutch shelves (K) are concealedwith shopmade bullnose molding. This molding is made in a three-step procedure, fig. 17. First cut long blanks. Then cut a V: x !!.t. groove in these strips to male with the tongues. The last step is to round over both front corners with a Yi corner round bit. Now it's just a matter of CUllingthis molding to length and gluing it onto the tongues. see Figs. 18 and 19. FI"1StU~G.Allother edges errhe cabinet are covered with iron-on veneer tape. Then the tops are mounted and screwed into place. And fi"ally. the shelf for the base cabinet is mounted with pop-in shelf supports. To finish this project, 1 used w.~o )ledium Walnut oU(the stain is pre-mixed in the oil). 1 applied two coats or lhe premixed (stAined)oil. and then added a final coat of natural \Vateo oil. SOURCES. We purchased the following items from The \Voodworkers' Store catalog: .. . Sheet. cane 64 linear mches (18" WIdth): Cat. No. H1!2I, 49~ per linear inch. Drawer Pulls: Cat. No. D5620, $3.95 ca. Edgemate velleer(4 kits): Cal. No. A2804, $2.60 per kit (8' length). St.em Bumpers (vinyl guides) (10): Cat. No. 03508, 6O~per 10. WOODSMITH
Talking Sho~ ------------------------------' -----------------AN OPEN FORUM FOR QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS
lIe3s has challged. And Otisis where a 101of combined with the relatively coarse grind. tlte (0,I/I .. i01l brgi... , ing on the bevel, produces a fragile raised In the tiled trivet pl'Oject in lVood$mith In order to ass"re the C).. tollUlr that he's burt. A simple inspection with a ten power No. 20, there was no listing for a source of actually co,npclI'i119 "app/68 to apples" glass will show this inconsistent (saw, supply for tho tiles. I've been unable to find from Ol1e yard I,) a nother, the lumber ill, tooth) edge. With n high carbon steel tool a suppller for them lind would appreciate «"slru has ClJtablisfled cerlain standards in a highly resinous wood, all edge proyour help on locating a source, wilh ConCaI'll10 tlte tJI'iIJkne88of 81,r/aced duced this way breaks down quickly, One solution I've found is to take a newly lumbel'. IlIdivid'lCIllumber yards are 81' a large scleeliOlI of inll'l \Vood.mith abolll bool8 (or are a>lOliwrstandard (8/~lumber is surfaced IIley called shil'S?), To beperfecl/y IlOlIest, IVm. If. Del. Solar to 11/,"), 7'ltis i. wlty the 51~ pille in yo",' ,tI¬ don't kno» Iile jirsllhiltg abo"t tile",. \I'estll101lt, IUi.lOi$ qUClItiolt ha« a different tlctual (or >Iom· And IItt Dilly real expc,'ie>wt we've had witll a boat is lUi/h ttie O1>etlllJ,t 100 find inal) Ihicklles. 111011SIJ c/terry. ~I'IIc" we list Ihe thiclt,lCss of a boa}-d;'1 oW'selvos in wllNlwe go "p tho;l.particular 7'0 ''!!(IlIya".wer I/OIl'rqIUJ8ti01I, ('Inafraid \Voodsmlth, 'we tty to illelude tlie Uq"'~'1..,r" crock Illit/tOllt a l>«d,lle. I'U have to an8wr>' two other right8ide to YOlO'p,j·oblelll. first: Wllat dl ,\lOI<71ced fil'e-quarfer), and t.echnique,; most worthWhile, 1 would COltlact\VoodenBoat, P .0, Box 18, Brook· HOIl.¥!t'tr, IIIi8 dtsig7lalion is lIOt Ih~ like to add a suggestion that your readers lin, .Ifoi>lc Q~616. aetllol tlt;cklle., of the lumber as it's sold may find helpful. Jl.. t for Ihe heck of it, I looked ,1t a all tlte "etoit mllrkel. ft10st lumber is SlIT· Your advice for grinding and maintain- dictionary to find Oltt what a goose1leek is faced at individlllll'"",ber yards. ing t he domed sCI'aper depends too much and it said Iha! il'. sOlllething tlw),'s cwved After th~ Illmber is IrUrfaced, i! sliU ?'t. on living with the manufactut'el"s supplied like th. "eck of a goo.e, as ill a d'roin pipe. grinding surfaces. For the mOSbpart, this t think Ive ltad on
'I. ,.'
WOODSMITH
23
Dovetail La!!m
_
SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE DOVETAILS move piece #2 to the top of the jig and mount piece #3 in the front of the jig. \Vhen piece is finally moved to the top of the jig. retrieve piece" I and insert it in the front of the jig to complete the box. Then the >!COOnd box is made the same way. Once the boxes have been routed. glue them together and round over all the edges with a YZ" corner round bit. To make the top. the center divider, and the bottom, first cut three pieces to y,," larger than the openinltSin the boxes. Then rabbet all three pieees, see Details A, BandC. ~'inRlly, the edges of the top piece nre rounded over with the \'Z" corner round bit, and the edges ofthe bouom piece are slightly chamfered. 'fo mount,the lump, we used a hoUow.threaded rod, On the top end of the rod, them's a decorative sleeve tha~ Ills between the lighllixture and the base. On the bottom end, there's a nul attached tA> the rod (it fits into the counter-sunkhole. Fig. 1)to pull eve"ythillg together. All or these parts can be found at any local lamp store.
This is an unconventional use of
the dovetail joints to say the least. But we thought that it was time to bring the dovetails out of the drawer. and into the tight. The first step for the lamp base is to rip a 9" wide, 22" long board into two 4¥.··wide pieces. (The width of these pieces must be a multiple of y,.. so there's a half pin on both edges of the joint.) Then cut each board into four pieces, 5" in length. To get a continuous grain pattern around each base, number each piece consecutively, and label the tOI)edge of each one. The next step i$ tA> set up the router template jig .IS described on psge 6. AU of the pieces receive tails on one end and sockets 011Ihe othe,·. Slad by pl~cing piece #1 on the top of the jig (as it it WCl·. a drawer front), and piece #2011 the front ofthe jig (as irit were the drawer side). The side of each place thllt's labeled should be facing outward, and the lop edge should be against the guide pins. Ane,' these two pieces have been routed. remove piece III and set it aside for now. Then AGURf I
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24
WOODSMITH
