NO. 25
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$2.50
TAMBOUR VIDEO CABINET TURNED CANISTER SET OAK COFFEE TABLE TECHNIQUE: STAVE CONSTRUCTION
~I"'I:LI •
HOW TO MAKE A TAMBOUR
Wrodsmith, Number 25
Jan.lFeb., 1983
Editor Donald B. Pesc~ke Design Oirect(N' Ted Kralicek
AssistantEditor Steve Krohm.er
Graphic DeSigners Oavld KreyUng
Matera Simmons Subscripllon Manager Sandy J. Baum Subscription Assistants C~rlslel Miner Vicky Robinson Kim Melton Jackie Stroud S~Ir'ley Feltman
Sawdust A80lJ'l'T1I1S ISSUE.1 have to ndmiL something. I've always been fascinated wjth tambours (l-oll-lops). And it doesn't tlllie much fu talk me into building 3 project with one of these "moving wood" doors. When we were building the video cabinet for this issue, J thought it was a good opportunity to include a tambour. But this raised a question of practicality. Would anyone really lowe.' the tambour to coverup the T. V. screen? After we fini$hed this cabinet, 1 took it home for a few weeks, and found I couldn'; resist closing the tambour every once in a while. I~ was then' discovered that once theT.V. wasoutofsight ... well, Leompletely forgot about Love Boat and F antasy "land. (Maybe this tambour is more
practical than 1 thought.) PHO'I'OCRAPIIS. There's something dif· ferent about the photographs in this issue. We've been experimentingwith a new pho-
tographic process. In past issues, all of the phOtOgl·.phs were printed ill a process Ken Minar known as a duo-tone. This is basitaUy a Admlnlstrallve Assistanl black-and-white photo that's printed in C~eryl Scott two colors (brown and black in our ease). The photos ill this issue are still printed in only two colors (which is \\'h,' !(reen leaves look brown ill the photo on the cover), but we've changed the way lhe ISSN: 01644114 photographs are processed so rhey nave a WOODSMITH is published bimonlllly (January. little more life in them. We're still ill the experimental stages. March, May, July. Septembel. November) by Woodsmilh Publishing Company. 1912 Gran&X.We're including a ~pecial.j-Ilage Company.All Rights ReseNed. • Compul.r O~ralions
Subscriptions: One year (5Iosue5) S10. Two years (12 Issues) S18. Single copy prlce, $2.50
(ClInada and Foreign: add $2 per year.) Change 01 Address: Pleasebe sure 10include
bolh your old SIld new .
Oes Moines. Iowa 50309. Second clo&8 postage paid ~. Oes Molnes. Iowa.
seeuon in this issue; an index to the contents of the first 24 issues of IVoodsmith, plus a page of sources for mail-order woodworkh)g catalogs. The indexshoutd help locate articles and projects in past issues. We'll up-date it again next year ill the January issue. The list of catalogs includes almost all of
the mail-order sourees we've used for the p)'ojects shown in past issues of lVood~mith. This list is by no means 1I complete ac.<:ountingof all th~ catalog. available, but
it does include some of the best sources for tools and supplies we know of. But why do those catalog companies mal
STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP. )IANACE}tENT AND CiRCULATION (R~~Iby~' u.s.G.~. 1. TItre Qf MU
·: m(6). 3b.. Annual "'~JltiOCI rrit«tlO.-OO. •. Comp\l;h! mlll1!l'IJt~ or kno....llut'lX'eo! publhtioft: 1.9~2:GraM A\'elt.K!. Df!1 "foltlf!ll.(VolkCtlWSty.),lb'lql ~ti. C«tlple(~maItln, #dilrtwr. 191t CJ'OJIIfiI\'tfIt», I)., :'ol')fnes. Jo"'" 60309. Ii. Comp!(I'~116d~ o( r.mbl~ .>ditor. aM 1I~~t'dttor;
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T_i~s& Techni9!!e_s __
__
router and a trammel point on the back side of the blank. Recently, I experienced considerable diffiThen I position the jig on the router culty trying to put a sanding sleeve on my table SOthat the bit is only h"Lkinga light drum sander. Then I remembered a trick r cut when the blank is held against the sides of the "V". After the jig is clamped ill learned in my high school physics class. To reduce the size of the sanding drum position the blanks are "outed in a counter-clockwise direction, keeping presSO that the sleeve would slip on without (lifflculty, I put the drum into the freezer sure against both sides of the jig, and f'or about .fifteen minutes. As the drum against the surface of the table. cools off, it contracts enough -so that the Bria.1!Smith sanding sleeve can be slipped on without Key_s',., West VilyiniCL any problems. Dat'i
ing fixtures, but it does take a little time and patience. The end result is three absolutely flat surfacea. S. IV. !1athaway
Sudb",'y, ,llassaciUlsetts ARTIST'S TRIANGLES
Ihave a suggestion fo" quick and accurate setLing orlhe miter gauge on the table saw. For common angles (30°, 45', 00', 90"), I use good 12"-14"drafting triangles (available at art supply stores) to set the miter gauge. They're extremely accurate, and you get the same angle every time. Bruce WaldvogeL
Ma.nteno, Illinois
DOVETAIL CHISELS
I'd like to make 8 suggestion to the readers ofl'l'ooosmitil that J find to be very helpful when hand-cutting lap dovetails. I've found that the hardest, part 'in cutLinglap dovetails is cleaning out the waste
CARRIAGE BOLTS
•
that have no pilot bearings (since the jig ilselflimits the width of cut the bit makes). And finally, when it come& lime to rout the edge on the finish side of around blank, I can do it accurately wttheut, ha\'ing to mar the face of the blank with a trammel point (which requires "tilling a hole On the race sides of 8 blank for the trammel point to ride in.) To make the jig. I used a piece of 0/," plywood approximately 12' x 30". Then I made bl'Q cuts for the opening as shown in the diagt·aln. (Iuied to keep the two sides of the "V" at a 45°angle from the f"ontside or the jig). Then where the two "ides orthe "V" meet, I cut a 3" square opening for clearance around the routei- bit. Next, Iattached a hinged bit guard to the back side of the 3"'square opening. This way, the guard can be flipped up out orlhe way when not in use. To use the jig, I've found the key thing to
watch fo,' is that the round blanks are cut out as cleanly all possible. And the best method I've Iound to do this is to use the WOODSMITH
I've fount! that whenever ('m using ear"iage bolts in wood, the square shoulder (that's supposed to hold the bolt securely) has a tendency to slip when I'm tl'ying to remove a nut on the other end. What l've done to counter this effect is to cut a slot into the end or the bolt with a hack saw. Then 8S I'm removing the bolt, I can insert a screw driver in t.,heend of the bolt to keep it from turning. This bas been particularly helpful when working with woods Lhat have deteriorated frorn age, or when the nuts on carr-iage bolts have to be removed frequently.
in the corners between the pins. What I've done to eliminate this aggravation is purchase lWO inexpensive V( chisels and regrind ~hem at a skew (one has a 15· right-handed skew. and the other has 0 15°
skew). Paul /nutl14l1son left-handed The long point of t.he skewed chtsels MOl·stillts, nUnois really helps to !1et into the tight corners between the pins when it comes time to IT TAKES THREE TO GET ONE clean everything up. In WoOds-mitk No. 23, you described a Joh,. R. l,[ot."tjoy technique to flatten the bottom of a hand TVj"slon-Sale1Il,North Carotin(f plane using two surfaces. '1:0 be honest, you must have gotten lucky because the t----------------i only way to get a tnlely Oat surface is by SEND IN YOUR 'DrAS using three surfaces, not two. t-----------------l Start by marking the surfaces 1, 2, and It you'd like 10 sIlare a woodworking lip wilh olhe, a. Then rub SUI-faces 1 and 2 together readers 01 Woodsmilh. send your Ides 10: (using the silicon carbide slurryas an abra- WoodSmilh. TIps & Techniqu8S, 1912 Grand sive) until they show good contact all over. Av&.,Des Moines, Iowa 50309. Theil rub surfaces 2 and 3 togethel" and W. pay a mlnimuln9t$10 lorlips. and SIS or finally surfaces 3 and 1. By using finer and more for special lecl1nlques-(Ihal ere accepled finer grades of silicon carbide slurries, you torpublica lion).Please givea comple!eexplanacan get any degree of polish you want, tion 01 you, Idea. If a skelcl1 is needed, send it 'fhis method doesn't take any fancy hold- along; we'll draw a new one.
3
__ S_h_o~ Sto~e Cabinet A PLACE FOR EVERYTHING
"Where am 1 going to put all this stuff? I've nm out of baby-rood ja'')S and littl'l plastic drawers; and I need a place to put all theae screws, brads, sandpaper, bolts, nuts. and a dozen little tools. "HoW about j' caPine~? Something about the &ize of R three-drawer file cabinet that doesn't take up much flool' space. That should work. And it should have a lot of shallow drawers ... and the drawers should have 'medular' divide..,>,that can be arranged any way I want them." I had these thoughts one Saturday as I was going through my monthly "clean everything in the shop" routine. ( was getting frustrated with little plastic drawers tllat don't hold enough, and big workbench drawers tbat force you to pile
tool. on top of tools.
4
I finally decided to build this Shop StOI" age Cabinet. lb takas up less than 2 square reeL of Ooor space, yet there's almost 13 square feet of storage "rea. THE DRAWERS
The cabinet shown here has 12 d...awers: six small, five medium, and one large drawer. However, the size and number of Ihe drawe •." can be sltered to suit your needs. Each drawer is a multiple of the others: A medium-size drawer takes up exactly twice the space of two small drawers. And the large drawer equals one medium and one small drawer. (If I W!1l" building another cabinet, I'd skip the large drawer and replace it with three small drawers. These small drawers are really handy for all sorts of things.)
In addition to being multiples of each other, the dimensions of these drawers allow you to cut all the pieces from standard construction lumber (t.4's and Ix6'5) with very tittle waste (see CULting Diagram on page 1). One last thing, these drawers are designed to take full advantage of multipJeculting techniques. Once you make a setting for one drawer, it's Ihe same on all drawers (no matter what size they are). THE CABINET
In normal construction proeedures, you would decide on the size of the cabinet lir.t and then build the drawers to ti~the cabinet. But since there are so many drawers, J wanted to simplify the drawer eonstruction as much as possible. WOODSMITH
•
The best approac:h, I decided, would be to determine the ronal dimenslons of the drawers (so they would be easy to cut), and then build the cabinet to accept these
FIGURE I
1----1$'1,.-----'-1
•
drawers,
After a little experimenting 1 found it works best if tile outside dimensions of the drawers are 1514' wide by 15v.;"deep. This gave me the dimensions I needed for the cabinet. TOP A.~O BO'ITOM. First cue I;WOpieces for the top and bottom ofthe cabinet 15V,. wide (this is the depth of drawers), The length of these pieces if 16'1. (thi" allows 16\{,"for the width of the drawer, plu~ v..for clearance on the sides. plus 11'0:for the rabbet. used to auaeh the cabiue; sides.) Then cut \6" x 'Yo" rabbets on the ends of the both pieces, .see "ig. 2. Also cut a v..' X V." rabbet on the back edgJ! (LO attach the cabinet's back). THE SII)E$. The side> have a lot of grooves for the drawer runners (see J)ig, 1), and I wanted to make sure these .grooves lined up perfetU)' 00 both side~. To do this, 1cut a piece gfplywood to tbe f;It1:grooves on a table saw with a dado blade, The measurements for these CIIt.< (sho" n in Fig. I) are the distance from the funt", to the "beginning" edge of the groove. I'm USing the term "beginning" edge because the six grUPI'i,B at the top of the cabinet are cut with the lop edge of the workpiece againsr the fence. But the lower five grooves are cut "ith the bl>ltom edge of the workpiece against the fence, Note: There's no need for a 1"'00\'. (01' a runner) for the bottom drawer, RII'1'O \\'10'1'11.Aftel' the gI"OOV.' are cut in the double-wide workpiece. rip the two sides to final width to match the lop and bottom. Then eut a rabbet on the back edge of both pieces for the cabinet's back. ASSb:lIBLY. Before the top, bottom and sides are assembled, I cut lhe \1<' Masonite back to final size, Theil glue and 1)8i) the four pieces for the cabinet logethel', and also glue and nail the back in place. (The back will help hold the assembly square). Finally, I added e(jging strips to the front oil the cabinet (to covel' the exposed plywood edges), see Fig. 3.
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5
D~AWER CONSTRUCTION
The censtruction method 1used fOl' these drawers is a little out of the ordinal)" and probably needs and explanation, Tbe $tI."nges~ thinf( about these drawers is that the sides extend beyond the drawer's front and back. 1'his was done for two reasons. First, Ineeded a little extra "meat" at the front Slid back to strengthen the tongue and groove joint, 'Ole other reason has to do with what 1 didn't wal\b to happen. r didn't want to put a stop on the drawer (so I could pull it out e"lIdO(I beyond the drawer's back. As the drawer is pulled out, you naturally stop when you see the drawer back. But if you pull a little too far on these drawers, (her~8 still enough left on the drawer Sides so they don't fall out of the cabinet.
RGURE 5 SWLlL D!tAW£R SlOE. lSV.
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THE CUTTING SEQUENCE
of a day cutting all the pieces fQr the 12 drawers. To speed thing>
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MEDIUM DRAWER SIDE
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SMAU DRAWER DIVIDER
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____
DADOS FOR OtVIDtRS
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the inside or the dado blade, and make acut on one end, then turn the piece around.and Cllt the other end.
6
WOOOSMITH
1 worked (Inall the side pieces 01'St,see Fig. 6. The dadoes on the (ront arid back pieces and the dividers are all the same (see Fig. 7). except the dividers are cut on both sides, 6. 'TONGUtlS. After the dadoes were cut. I cut the tongues on the ends of the Irontand back pieces to fie snugly in the dadoes. (This is just a matter of cutting two rabbets on each end to leave a tongue.) 'Ihen reset th~ saw to cut tongues on the dividers so they fit somewhat loosely in the dadoes. (you want lo be able to remove these dividers easily.) It!s best to make test cuts for these tongues on 8 piece of scrap fust, Then join ebis test piece between two sides to check the rmalwidth. (This test assembly should fit between the sides of the cabinet with about, of elearanee.) 7. GRQOV£ fOR IIO'ITOM. Cuta groove lor the drawer b.ottom on the inside edge of all the fronts, backs and sides. This groove starts V,n (rom the bottom edge and is wide enough to accept a v." Masonite bottom. 8. lIA.8UETFOR IttJNN£R.Next. rabbets A are cut on tile outside, bottom edges ofthe sides to fit the drawer runners, To get a PLYWOOD Sloe smooth cut here, 1cut these rabbets on the router table with ,\ straight bit. J 9. N(YI'(:IJ FOR1I.'NDLF.S. The final step is to match up Pair'S of drawer sides an<)mark the front edges. Then cut a V..·.deep by o/,t·high notch on the front edge o( each side piece for the drawer's handle. II. clEAaANCE 10. DR.'WEIt BO'M'OMS. Dry-assemble the Cow,pieces for the drawer to get the mea- ' .. .w •• N CASE surements for the drawer bottom. (1cut all OR,.WE, 510' the bottoms out of 1(" Masonite.) II. Ml$I;MBLY.Finally. the drawers can be assembled. Apply glue to the tongue and groove joints and join the fOlll' pieces and the drawer bottom. (I tacked" small brad through the drawer side to hold each joint together while the glue dried.) 12. OR,IWF.R IIANIlLES. The drawer handles a'~ ripped YO" wide from some of the remaining stock. Then they're glued and nailed into the notch on the front edge of the drawer's sides, see Fig. 9. 13. ~UNNJ;;RS. H all has gone well, the drawers will IIIin the cabinet with a total of Yi' of ph~)'.All you need now are the runnel'S. 1 ripped V"n·wide strips from some of the remaining stock. Then Lresawed each strip so there would be about VIti' clearance between the runner and the l"abbet on the drawer side, see Fig. 11. 14. IHVIO&1lS. Use the remaining Mason· ite to cut dividers for the drawers. (Some of the options are shown in the detail pheros on page 4.) Since theSe dividers are not glued into the dadoes, they may have a tendency to raise up. 1cut them about VIII' less than the height of the drawer sides). 15.~'TERS. 1 added foul' swivel casters to the bottom or this cabinet so J could move it where I needed it.
FIGURE 10
It.'" EOG{NG
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stR'P
Gllie RUNNERS
INro
GROOVES
MATERIALS LIST
~N
WOODSMITH
A Plywood Sides (2) o/.:It 15'1,.34'.4 8 Plywood Top/Bot (2) 'I,,)t IS'/•• 16~. C Masonito Drawer Bot (12) 'I..x 14!A . 11~ D Ma.onift Cale 80cle (') V.. X 34'/, . 16V. E Mosonlte Dividers cut to fit F SmQIISid., (12) "Iit. x 1"lro ... 15'/" G SmoU Fron', (6) V.x 1"/1.~14Y" H Small Bo,k. (6) 'I. x I'l/III ~ 14'1. 1 Small DIviders (6) 1/.1x IV.· 14V. J Runners {24} V.xYt·tS K Handl •• (12) 1,1, xV;· lS'/. l Largo Sides (2) :v.. x S~,•. t5v.. M Largo Front (1) 'f,J )t 5'11 •• '.'/.1 N lorge B.,k (I) '/ ...x 5'/10 - 14¥.t 0 lorg. Divider (1) 0/., x 4'4 ~ 14'1. P Medium Sidos (10) 'I. )r 37/, •• IS'V'" Q Modium ',ont. (S) 0/.. )t 3Y',<'1~ T4V. R Medium 80ck, (S) 'I.. x 3¥1 •• 14VA S Medium Dividors (4) .)/.,x 2Y/ •• 14V.
ClEAAA,NCE IIETWEEN
oltAwefts
CUTTING DIAGRAM PLYWOOD 48'"
'1....MASONITE
x 48"
A
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A
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48")(
96"
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7
Stave Construction JOINERY THAT TURNS INVISIBLE Almos; every tUllling project begin. by gluing' up enough wood to work with. This usually means laminating several small pieces to get One big chunk of wood. If the shape you're wO"king with is a cylinder, the size (and weight) of that chunk of wood can quickly get oul of hand ... unless you use stave construction. This method of laminating isjust a variation on a mitered fI-amc. The only difference is that the miters (or bevels in this case) are cut on the sides of each board, rather than on the ends. 'l'hen lhese boards are glued together to form a six, eight, ten or twelve-sided "cylinder." It's just like building a barrel (or a hot tub, for tbose of you under 40). The result ofthis method oflamination is a woodtumer's dream come true. Stave construction eliminates the nagging P"oblem of end t,...·ain on ~he perimeter of the
cylinder.
'fhe,biggestadvantage, however, is cost savings. stave construction uses very Iitt.ie lumber because (he whole point is to create an almost round surrace to begin with. This, of course, also speeds up the turning prOCO$$. CHOOSINCTTHE
WOOD
The fu'SLstep in stave construction is to choose the lumber. From a visual standpoint, certain types of wood work better for this type of assembly. In fact, if the light type of wood is used, the joint lines are almost invislble. (Thus. the cylinder doesn't look like a bunch of SCI'llPS glued logether.) The best woods are the open-grained species: oak, ash, butternut, walnut and mahogany. used butternut for on the canisters shown in the follo\\'ing article, and kotl for the bowl on page 24.) There's one other factol' in choosing [he wood. If the lumber is warped, twisted, or bowed, i~s almost impossible to cut the staves cOrl·eetly. And the joints will neve,' be Light. The solunon is to use only Oat, straight (expensive) wood.
The best \\Jily to determine the "right" number of sides for the size cylinder you want is to draw it out on paper fir,t. For all four canisters shown in the next article, I knew ( wanted It wall thiekness of 0/,.•• plus at least Vi' for "'aslo (when t,ruing up the cylinder walls), Since the largest canister presented the most problems, I started with it. I drew a circle wtth a radius o( 3,),'(' (for a diamete" of 60)(0, see Fig. 1. Then r drew another one inside it with a radius of 2JI..' (which is enough for the %" wall thickness, plus the W' for waste). It turned out that using ~/4.stock 1'01' an eight-sided assembly worker! [(U' the largest canister, and it also worked well on all the smaller sized canisters.
sides so it can be divided into halvas.) Although some corrections can be made on these sub-assemblies, it's rather important tc got as close as possible when cutting the bevels. (Por eight-sided assembly the blade angle is set to 22110·.) SP.'M'IKGTIIES,\WlJIAI>~. The most aceurate method I've found to set the bevel of lite blade is to use an adjustable triangle. (Adjustable triangles thaI can be set to any degree between if and 90'. Sec IVood$),lith No. 20 fo,' more Oil these triangles.) Set the angle on the adjustable triangle and hOldit against the body of the blade (so it doesn't touch any otthe teeth). To check this setting, go ahead and cut a pi'ICC of scrap wood, and thell check the l)evel o£ihc aclll~,1cut. (The best way to do this, is to duplicate the angle on a sliding bevel CUnlNG THE BEVELS gauge.) Once I decided on eight sides, l had to If the angle is off, adjust the blade and bevel-rip the sides to make the cylinder. make another test cut until you get as close The angle of the blade for tbese cuts is as possible, (Sligh~ errors can be comc"itical - even a slight.error can lead to bill' pensated fOI' later.) headaches. In the case of an eight-sided CUnlNG THE STRIPS a~sembly tot' example, there are eight joints. BuLeachjoint consists of two sides. Once Lhebevel is set, Icut eight strips to So, there are 16 cuts involved. the widths needed for all of the cylinders. (See p8g~10 fo)' the widths of each stave for the four dirfel'~nt size eanisters.) Just to be on [he safe side, ( cut one ext ra slave per cylinder. After all of the staves are bevel-ripped to width. cut them to length. ero compensate for some Joss dUling the turning process. cut the staves about 2" longer AJlC Of CytINO'1t than their finished lengths.) MUST FITWITHIN 'HE 'flICI(N~SSOF STOCK
a
THE NUMBER OF SIDES
Once the wood has been selected, the next hurdle is deciding the number of sides for the cylinder. This sounds simple enoug\l, but it takes some planning. The ultimate goal is to tum a cylinder (a true <;ircle)out of a bevel-ripped assembly. \Vhich means a circle has to fit within a cross-section of the assembled pieces ... and there has to be enough width to get the wall thickness needed (or 8 cylinder.
8
LA
vour
AN 0 111;.\ RKJ N(; Trl£
When the staves have been cut, la)' the eight staves side by 'Sideand arrange them to get a nice grain pattern. Then to keep eve"ylhing in order, number aU of the staves to maintain theil' sequence during the ~Iuing process, ASSEMBliNG
Any error in the angle of the bevel is multiplied by 16- a \/,' error in the bevel setting' adds up to • 4' e""OI' when the assembly is glued together. That's more than enough to create some unsightly gaps. SOI,t,J'rtON. The
best way I've found to get around this problem i. to make two sub-assemblies for the cylinder. Each subassembly consists of one-half the total number of sides. The. advantage of two half-cylinders is that they can be sanded to mate pe,'fectly (which we'll get to Inter). (This also means the cylinder must have an even number of
ST-A,rES.
THE CYLINDER
It's possible at this point to glue all eight staves together at once to form a cylinder. But whenever i I,·), this, I wind up with frayed nerves and an expanded vocabulary. Instead, I glue the staves into sets Of two, then into sets of four, and tinally into the completed cylinder. The first two steps of this gluing procedure are done with hand pressure only. Hand pressure only? Does that "eally work without using Clamps? Ie's surprising what you can do with a little pre ss ure and the right glue. I use Titebond glue, which is a tnst-setling glue th•• makes it possible to "clamp" the WOODSMITH
Sanding the beveled edges like this pro- being glued to the plywood disc, Spread some glue on one surface of the duces two flat surfaces that can be easily However, before gluing on the cylinder, joined, However, it .1.0 changes the anyou should drill pilot holes in the plywood jOint, Then slide the beveled edges tolt~th"" ana hold them firmly rOl' about gles of lhe bevel. just slightly, and alters disc to mount it to the faceplate, Once one minute, see Fig. 1. As you slide the the final proportion. of the assembly. This again. draw l\ circle that has the same two stave. together, tlj' to keep the out- Is usually not a problem, but you want to radius as the outside row of holes on the side corners of the bevels tightly together. remove as little material as possible to faceplate, keep the assembly close to (he original Lay the faceplate on the plywood disc, Also b'Y to keep the bottom edges flush, Once all of the staves have been joined shape, cente,ing the outside row-of holes over the into sets aCtwo, join these sets together to Once the two halves match, glue them lin" and mark the location of all the screw (Ol'D! sets of row', using exactly the same together using' 1;\\,0band clamps. I
staves together with just hand pressure,
/
........ :~
.7l(flPBOTTOM
~)....
'..,0<5 flUSH
~'GAO" ~S~;~~~fAC~
(;lll.e tJl/i $tat'es into set» of tWQ, the» illto sets ollolil'. l{old litem IPith IIalld
1
prqssllre mllil for ab,,,,t mIll minnie. Be ~u,'e aU ojflw bottOm erlgeswreflush.
•
CYUI'.'Y
l<~
:~
•
HA"
WI«", the gl". is dry on I"~ 1w.1fTo con'eel, a"y i'l u« be-vels, 2 assemblies, Ow beveled lUlges sllould 3 sand rJw assemblies v.jlaJ.l""face, « $i1'<1iigltlIi"e. If they don't, it.cali be Occ(),••iO'lUllll/ rolaw Ihe aS$embly e1ll1fo)' .11'01' 011
1(11'>11
cOI"l-.u:ttd belo!'efinal a8$ltmbly, CUlClf EQUAJ,S WlPEST
[
I'OINT OF
eltd to preve'lt rounding OW,,. Ihe edge.,
~==~~~ -PL'tWOOD OI$C
CYUNDER
K£f-P CYlINDE8 CENY£$IftI
wHEN ClAMPING
f';:: ..... :::;;;:::;~
---~, w• ..,.
aOTlOM "-
EOOESflUSH
?'
Wlte" lite bl!lvela ,m the ('wo /tU/Ue8 To mD',,!!(tn« cyliru~1' the lathe, Cla"IP 'h. cyli'ldtrr t~th« plywo04 4 meet 1(1.(0"" lighl jOUI!. ul)1Jlyglue 5 prepare. a plywood disc by draJving 6 disc !Isiy'g a
It
(I
Olle,.,
n;I/ltt. Be .lO'C tJI. bottom etlgesu"6jlilslt. WOODSMl'fH
@e4,,'I
))U!1I:UIlU''''
the C'ytilldel', Cellltrr cylinder
Oll
tllis If».,
of mm'k
!L$
pms""';$ applied,
9
Turned Canister Set FOUR TURNS FOR THE KITCHEN I just couldn't take it anymore. Every morning as I stumbled to the kitchen fOI· my fi'eat cup of coffee, those awful canisters were staring me in the face. You know the ones. 'rhose ceramic things that look like a brown log with a little squirrel handle glued on the Side. I finally decided they had to be replaced . . . I had to turn a set of
wooden canisters.
Por the canisters shown here, r used butternut for Ibe main body, and walnut for Ihe base and lid. And just to make things interesting, I thought this would be a good opportunity to use stave construction to laminate the cylinders. (See the previous article for a detailed description of stave construction.) Turning a canister (cylillde,·) that's built using stave construction requires procsdures that are different ... even by a woodturner's standard. First. the cylinder is partially turned even before the base is attached. Then later, the base is added, and the whole assembly is reversed on the lathe before the turning is finished. A strange procedure, 1 admit, but it's the bes~ way ('ve found to get the job done. TURNING THf CYLlNDfR The first step is to bevel-rip the stave.
needed for the four canisters. 1 used eightsided assemblies for each of these canisters. ('this means a bevel setting of 2214<.)But to get the four different sises, I vaned the width of each stave, as shown in the drawing below. The final length of each stave (which is the height of the cylinder) is eq~al to the final diameter of th" cylinder. I cut each stave about 2" longer' than needed to allow a litlie waste for turning. Once the staves are cut, they're asscmbled to form the rough eight-sided cylinders. Then these cylinders are mounted to
"l'-I-
r- "--:I 2
plywood disea (as described on the previous page). I)ETER~IINE\V,\JIL ,'IDCKl'lESS. The most critical part of turning the~ canisters is determining the thickness of the walls. I started by turning the largest size canister because it will have the least amount of Wallthickness afte,· it's trued-up on the lathe. Then the other three canisters are turned to the same thickness. Mount the largest cylinder on the lathe, Then the outside walls of the cylinde,· (and the plywood disc) are turned true using a large gouge, see }'ig. 1. Remove only as much material as needed to turn tne wails
FOR fAOf CANISTER WALLS ~." THiele:
j--1W'--j
WJ7IJ I,.'RABSET DEEP
6Y.-
7'1./'
10
walls.
The section of the cylinder right ne-'1t to the plywood disc is dimcI!lt to get to with a gouge. so I switched to a square-nosed scraper here. Then I checked the walls to make sure they were st'"lIight. (Use outside calipers to measure the outside diameter along the length of the canister.) SMOOTHTilE WALLS. Once the diameter is consistent, the next step is to improve the finish le(l by the roughing-out gouge. Normally. the tool I'd reach for is a skew. But in this case, there's a problem. The NOTE: ClUE A PIECE-OF 4(4 STOCK ON TOPOf ue BlANK to fORM KNOB
4'" SlOCK SLIGHT SHOULDER
5'4 SlOCI(
RABBET 'I....DEEP
CUT £tGHT STAVES
clean and stl"aight. You want to leave as much thickness as possible for the inside
1 1
'22'A· BEVEl
r-
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1 1 6-
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o~ STAV~)
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WOODSMITH
•
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1001rest on the Sears lathe ( was usins{ ean't be raised high enough for the skew to eut at the proper angle. Instead. l cleaned UI) the walls of the cylinder in a two-step procedure, First, I made a couple of very light passes with a fre$hly sharpened gouge, (Depending on the wood, a he.vy scraper may also help.) Then for the tinal clean-up, I used an orbital sander, see Fig, 2. Although a sander is not a typical turning tool, it does a terrific job for the Jinal cleaning on tbe outsjde of the cylinder, Set the lathe to the slowest speed and use only the lower half of the sander's pad (to prevent the "leading edge" from grabbing the cylinder), TRUI,:TilE RDI. \Vhen the outside is smooth, cheek t'Ol' straightness again, and then true the rim of the eanist ••-, 1 used a pa"ling tool (0.' the initial cut 011 the rim (see Fig. 3). Then to ensure the .;m forms a clean joint when the base is attached, 1 made a second pass with a skew to improve the finish. PREI'ARING POR THE lIASE. To prepare the cylinder for the base, true the inside walls 1.0 a depth of 3" or 4". Here, I used a square-nosed scr-aper, making only very light passes until the. high points were removed, see Fig. 4. (Shop Note: Normally, a rabbet wouJd be cut ill cylinder walls to accept (.he base. But Oil these canisters, [ cut the rabbet in the base because the walls of t he cylinders are too fragile to accept a rabbet.)
1
with the lathe, reducing the diameter of the blank to I" larger than the corresponding cylinder. Before.the base-is completed. a rabbet is rtlt on the rim of the base So the cylinder can be mounted toil. Mark the width of the rabbet so it's 0/,," from the edgenearest the liailstock. Then use a parting tool to cut the rabbet until it's slight~v larger than the inside diameter of the cylinder. see Fig, 5. 'Vbe,l you start to get close to the ronal size, use the cylinder itself as a guide to determine the final size of the rabbet. Be THE CANISTER'S BASE sure the rabbet fits quite snugly in the The base of each of these canisters is cylinder, 0" the ...! will be a gap where the turned from 514 stock, (I used walnut.) cylinder walls meet the base. Edge-glue enough stock to cut blanks l~" Once the rabbet is cut, finish sand the larger than the outside diameter of the inside face of the base to eliminate having corresponding cylinder, Then, to avoid to sand thiS area when the canister is screw holes in the bottom of the base assembled. (when it's mounted to the faceplate), I MOUNT THE CYLINDER mounted these blanks to a plywood disc with the paper-and-glue method. Finally, with the base blank still on the First, cut. plywood dise I' larget' than lathe, apply glue to the rabbet and attach the blank. Then pre-drill pilot holes in the the cylinder. (Don't apply 1.00 much glue, disc (to match the holes in the faceplate). 0r it will squeeze-out into the inside corner Next, cut a piece of papel' slightly larger of the canister.) t-han the plywood disc and glue the paper Since the plywood dise is still mounted to between the diS"cand the blank, Let this the cylinder, I could use the tail stock of assembly dry overnight. the lathe (and a live center) to clamp the Finally, attach ~heblankassembly to the cylinder against the base blank, see Fig. 6, faceplate. (l used 6" faceplates for the two As you appJy pressure with the tailetoek, largest canisters, and 3' faceplates for the make sure the edge of the stave assembly two smallest canisters.) and the bottom bla.lk meet securely Oil all I'REPARING Till: 1),\$1>. After the blank is sides of the cylinder. Allcw this assembly mounted to the faceplate, Ws (UI'!led true to dry overnight. O~lYuse 80l'{OM
rURN CYLINDERlauE WiTH lARGE" GOUGe
•
After tha walls are roughed down to a depth off 3", I turned them to their final thickness, and cheeked for uniform wall thiekness with Outside calipers. Shep Note: By tuming the illside walls slightly deeper than needed for mouming' the base, 1 eliminated having to IUI'!l this area later, ('l'his will be the bottom of the canister, and difficult to get to.) Finally, the cylinder is taken off the lathe, and the faceplate is removed so it can be used to turn the canister's base.
f1!UE 111MO~ CYlINDER wnH PARTINGTOO~
EOGE OF SANDER
TI'1I.6the majlYl'ity of the cylinder (and
tlte I WOI'k-iilg'near tile plYlflOod di-.c, w.ke light "1
2
After 1M "''(Ills of tke cl/lindtrr (U'e
3
Therim. oftl~cytind,eris trued wi.th,(l pc.rti,tg toolj'rs·t, 1'Ium it's cleruted "V
clea1
REDUCE WAllS 10 fiNAL 'HICKNESS fOR A
DEPTHOf 3-
After tM rin, is clean,ed up, tlte Use a 'fI
Olt
Sit,,,,
sq"a.,·e·>wsed screper. This (Wea. ea" be tl'r>wd to a Mpth of abo"t ,~. or 4'.
WOODS},{jTli
with the cyli"Mr itself.
cyli1ldel' meets the base to form, It tight. joint. Let this assII1nbly d:/'Y ovtmigilt.
11
TURN THE INSIDE WAllS
Before the inside walls can be turned, the plywood disc must be removed (rom the "top" of the canister. Mark the finished length of the canister on the outside of the cylinder. Then sla,r/ a cut with the parting too! about v.r to the outside of the marked line, see Fig. 7. Make this cut only about W'deep.
'I'hen, turn off the lathe and
USe
a hand
saw to (inish the cut. After the plywood is removed, trim the cylinder to its finished length with the parting tool, and clean up the rim with askew .. 11JRI
or
_L~ '\ CUT GROOVE I, ..
oeEP.
TOOl
~
-
SECTiON
n,:_on°itJ!
< \'
1 _.-' ~
.
. ~..-JO
..
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I~~"i...-"f~_PlljV~~~ ~\
~ , ~ ----'i
r-: ~
....-\\~--
'Fo remove lite plywood di$¢[ron: tile
7cyli11d(w, moks
The lids for these oanisters are probably the most difficult aspect or this project. The problem is tryin!: to turn four different sized lids to look the same. To do this, t turned a tapered be'Ld on t he lim (see Fig. 10) so it was exactly Lhe same on all four of Ihe lids, 'Then I siinflly reduced the size of the knobs (and the hollow around the knobs) On each suecessivelv smaller lid. All of this begins by cutting out fow' blanks. l nsed 514stock for the majo,' portion octhe lid, and added a small piece ef-t 4 stock in the center or the blank fOl' the knob. Then I used the pape,' glue method again to attach the blanks to a plywood disc and finally to a faceplate, Turn each lid blank true with the lathe, and reducing' the diameter of the lid blank to "/,,1' larger than the cylinder. IL\URt:T. 'VIlen the blank is trlled, cut a
ov••
'\ ~
flNISH CUT WITH HANDSA.W
TURNING THE LIDS
Y,.. -wide rabbet 011 ehe bottom of the lid. see Fig, 10. This rabbet should be cut deep enough so the lid fits loosely inside the rim of the canister Vi/hen you get close to the .ight size, remove the entire assembly and test it on the canister. $HAI'ING ras RIM. Afte,· the rabbet is turned, mark the apex of the bead on the remaining edge of the blank, see Fig, 11. The apex should be slightly to the left to allow a little exll'll "meat" on the light side for the tapered shoulder. ( turned the left side of the bead first, "hen the -sized .ight hall' is turned to match the left side. And finally. I used II round-nosed scrape.' to form the taper that flows from the bead. This taper ends with II definilOlshoulder I" from the outside et.lge of (he bead. (l cut this V,~"-deepshoulde r with a square-nosed scraper.) TlfE "'''OD. Next. I worked 011the knob. Form the neck of the knob with a roundnosed scraper, see !'ig, 12. At the same time, fOl1O the hollow around the knob so it flows smoothly out Lo the shoulder of the tapered bead. Then the edges of the knob are rounded over, and the slight hollow is carved in the lop of the knob. Finally, sand the lid, and then separate it f"om the plywood disc with " chisel. f')~ISIlL"(;, I finished the Qu/sideof the '
TURN WALLSto M.:!1;0
....... e-, PARTING
REM._OVEORIGINAL PLYWOOO OtSC
RE~t'OVINGTHE (lANIST~n. After the bead is turned, the entire canister can be finish sanded, inside and out. Then the canister is remeved from the lathe and the base is separated from the plywood di$c by driving a 1· wide chisel right, at the paper joint. (This will split the paper washer and separate the two piee.a.) Finally> I sanded off all unees of the paper and gille off the bottom of the caniste.r.I also hollowed out the bottom or the base (with an orbital sander) so it would sit on a nat surface wnhout. rocking.
/)0,1#01 tul .vitlt a
parting 1001,Tile» IW'/I off tile lath« «lid (),lIIplete lite cut wilh a 11«nd saw.
To.finiJ;/. the il,Mde Qf IIUl cylinder.
L'$~0
~!I/ ..n
/xlile sa
"III(1U gouge it) Cit! a
bead (111(he
8 tile ,uall with square'llosed 9 it e:dends Vo·[rtnn iler. SIt'ildt to a 8qllare-nO$e¢ $c''Ilprn' ""tii the t/tjckn ..~s matciles tlu: II
pl'cviow;i,,-Iu,",u;ds6Cti(IIl "~ar tlte bottom,
u:lir;re
llle cylill. SCj'wpet
the bel/Ii meets the cylind..e". STARTING POINT
FOR TAPU
. r<
11
w'W
\ -J
HOllOW
d.f( I- ..t""" __:...l._ t' '
.; ~I
\
L-
1/1' ,
-KNOB flOUNDNO$EO
~CRA''£.
\VZ<\·
Til form Ihe lid, first cu: rabllel, 7'lIt lid is.fVl?lled with a tapered hC(ld Wlw>! the ou4ide rbn i.done, jorlll 0 11 fit the cylinder. Tile,. Cl't Ilead 12 tlie neck oj'tlte knob ami he IwIlO'It· 1 around lite pe"i?lleter, 1'I1is bead is Uli! same size allli
II
tt)
I
Oll
0)1
tlie !tollo'Wgetsmallt~Q" each S'Ilwlle:1'lid.
l2
wW, U "o""d-Iwsed scraper.
•
M''«per. l'Jlenfi,,;sh
tUT1Ii?>.g/1<£ knob. WOODSMITH
•
Index of Contents INDEX FORISSUESNO.1 THROUGH NO. 24 This index covers aUlhe articles shown in 'he UM 24 issues of
11'oo
·!trough No. 24). In order to make It easier t., (mel lnfol'mation on specific topics, \\te'ye divided this index into six sections, The Iirs ! section is a general catalog of articles. whereas the last (jve sections deal specilicully with techniques. projeets and ioiTI~n·. , The number. follOWingeach listing refer t" the Issue Numbel' and lhe page number, Fur example, 16:10-11 refers to IVno/{
The atlicles listed in bbi. section give information on genct".!I wocdworkinll' topics (excluding' joinel'Y and techniques), Also
listed in thisseetion
W'e general ''efcrences to "constl'tlction examples" that, mal' be helpful if you're looking for ideas fo!'bu.lding dOOI'S.drawers, table lops, etc.
Angles
CornpounclI6:10-l'I For Mile!'s 12:14
Bell Rail Fasteners 21:2:3 Bench Hold-Down 23:3
Branding Irons to-3 Bullet catches 19:12 Cabinet ScrapeJ'l1 14:2, 14:12-1'<1,17:3
CarJle~ter's Triangle 1:6, IS:6 Chait"!, Constructlon E1I8mpies 2:6.4:1 t, 1~:8
Clamp.' Finger Boards 1:6
•
Dra'X"I' Guides, Construclion Examples Dado 13:14
Met~l 7:9, 12:7 IVeb Frame 8:10 'Vooden 14:7, 1.8:12, 22:14, 22:18, 24:20
Finishes Fillers 2:2, 15:3, 17:8 Non-Toxic 19:2;1 Potyurethane 16:15, 17:J1 Shellac 1'1:9, 17:1~ Staining Pine 19:23 Tuug OH24:ll Tung Oil Varnish 16:1
Varnish 14:9 Glue Bottles 9:3, 10;3 Brl,Ish 7:3
Clean Up 9:3 Frozen 20!23 Hid~ (Scotch) 19:23 Removal 17:20. 18:3 Resin 1:1, 3:11. 6:'1 Resorcinol 3:7. 3:11, 16:10 'VUlel'pl'oof 3:7, 3:11, 16:10 Grinding'The"IS 20:4-6. 2.0:12.23:23 Dressers 20;6-7. 20: 12 1'001 Rest 20:7. 2·1·:~ Hardware CampaiJ,'I1 7:7 \Vall.l.lounting 18:23
Hing ..,
Butlel's Table 1-1:16 D"OIl Leaf 14:8 Wooden 9:~-8.9:11. 20:16 Lathe
DriUing 2$:·1-5 Faceplate 1\Iounling 2:~:4-5 Pipe Clump Pads 15::l Gouge. 21:22 \Vell!,re Clnmps 5:3 Scrapers 2) :22, 22:23 Dado Blade 17:~, 23:23 Lazy Susans 21:10-11 DOOl'S, Construction Examples Leaf Supports 14:1;'7. 23:11 Oane Panel 22:14 Legs. "X" folding 3:6. 16:4 GlaS\19:11.13:4.21:12, 22:J8 Mu¥king Cauge 19:12, 19:)3. 21:3 Plywijod 22:14. 2'2:16 lIlathematies Plywood Panel 13:4 'lIfitel'$ 12:14-15 Raised Panel 8:7, 8:8, 18:4, 18:12. 18:11l. Tapered LCj(S l1:j 1 21:12. 22:12. 24:14 MU$ic ROle Moveme.\ts 6:(;-7 TamboUl'17:6. 17:10 Planes. Bench Dovetails flattening·Sole 23:22 Layout and Marking 19:(;.7 Parts 23:11;"17 Tools Needed 19:'1-5 Setup 2.3:20-21,23:22 Drawers, Construcdon EXllmJlles Use 23;21 Box Joint 11:16 PIastic Laminates 21:1()..1l Curved Front 14:5 Plywood Eelging 22:11. 22:22 Dovetailed 19:14. 22:12 Pumice Stone 14:9 Flush 11:4. 12:4. 20:14, 24:20. 24:24 Rosan Inserts 19:13. 22:11, 24:.3 Frame and Panel 8:8, 22:21 Router LlrJpe(i 13:14, 18:4, J.8:IG,21:12 Bits 9:3. 12:3, 12:11. 2$:2:) Mitered P'l'Onl21:3 Collets 7:3, 9:;). 12::~ Plywood 7:8, 22:10 Dovetait Fixtures 22: 10 Recessed 13:1.1, 17:6 J\lulti-Purpose Sdge Guide 17:J. 17:~ WOODSMITH
Router (continued) Stalld 22:16-17 'J'able 5:&-8. 9,3, 20:18-19. 24:3 $andillg Disk J 1:12, 13:3. t5:a Sanding OI1RU 12:1J. la:8. 15::3 Saw Blades Band Saw 10::) Oleaning 17:3, 21:23 1)ado 17:12, 17:20 Dovetail 19:5
Protectors 18:8 screws
Brass 1$:3 Dl'.\' IVali 18:~. 19:2:1 Scribe 19:4-5 Sharpening
Chisel$ 20:8-11 Plane Irons 23:1&.1\) Shal'penin!\, Stones Cleaning 20:13
Diamond Stones 20:13,23:18,2·1:7 ]>'Inttening 20:13 Jap3l1~SC'V~te,'Stones
2$:18-19.24:4-6 Oil Stones 20:·I-G,21):10.20:12-1:! Silicon Carbide Slul1'y ~:6. 2,1:23 '('able Legs, Const"uction Examples
Cnte Leg 20:14-16
Pedestal 11:6 Straight 14:10, 1;;:4 Tapered 11:4. 11:8. 14:4, 23:12. 2H:2<1 Trestle 22:14. 23:12. 2al2'l T"rneel 12:4
Table Tops. Conatrucrion Examples Bread Board Ends 23:12. 2:1:24 Butler's Table 10:8 DIXlPLear lI:S. 14:4. 20:14, 23:8 f',-ame and Panel 16:4. 21:12 Laminated 15:4. 19:14 Molded Edge 1<1:4,18:4, 24:1'1 0",\1 }'1:4 Rc)und 11:16. 20:14 Tambours ~:G-8.17:4-11. 20:3
T-Nuts 16:li) Triangle. A(ljust.able 20:2.3 Tool. Cabinet Scraper 14:12
D"i11 Press E:le.~tor 16:20, l!J:3
Dovetail Reuie» Fixtuses 22:10 Rockwell Speed Bloc Sander 1·1:12 Seal" 13el\ Sandel' Stand 10: to Slow-SI)eed Shaper ruts 12::) Stanley "No-Mar" Hammer 19:5 'Vagnel' Safe-T-Plnnne,' 10~}0 Trammel PQinl 17:4-5, 17:7, 17:20. 20:13 upholstaring' 2:8. IfI:ll
Veneer Pliant Wood 14:10-11 'rape 13:6. 17:S. 22:11 Wood Dimension,' 22:28 Stol'al,
1
FURNITUru
PROJECTS
F'lUQldng i~ a list of the major f\w"ilul'e IIl'Oje<:ts showi ill the first 24 issues of W'JI'''.'",ilb. Where possible. we have tlied to j(roup them by "tltegor)" such as Cabinets, Tables, etc,
Tables «'OntinuetJ) Gate Leg 20:14 Oak, Kitchen 15:4 Prembroke M:'I Shaker Stah(l J I.:.J Trestle 1:3, 23:10 T. V. 'I'.'3Y 16:,1
Book Cllse 7:6
OTHER PROJECTS
All of the smaller pl'ojecls ana projects for lhe llhOp are listed ill this section.
Cabinets
Bcd~~deStand 18:4 CabinetIHutch, European 2Z:18 Chail'-Side Commod~ 24:14 Curio Cabinet 21:12 Pry Sink, Colonial 18:12 ~'rame and Panel, Oontempcrary 8:$ Hutch/Cabinet, Contemporary 13:4 M.odul"" ~tor(,ge Cabinets 22:1Z Stereo, Tambour 17:6 Cart, Sen'ing/Mic''01I'3vc 23:8 Ca.~e~, Wall-Htmg Colonial Raised Panel 8:7 Di~pl.y Case, 0111." Door 9:11 Tambour Door Ca"" 1'1:10 Chairs
Contemporary 2:6 Peek. Canvas 8:ti
Oak Kitchen 15:8 Chests Blanket 16:.12
Six Drawl'!' 17:.16 !:l,veat." !l:8
(Jlocks lJ•• k 10:4 Manlel 24:8 Schoolhouse 21:4 Wall, Octagonal 12:8 Desks Lap 1):1;
stant 'fop, Shake,' 12:4 File Cabinet 7:R
Lamps
AdjllNlahle Bracket 1):4 Dovetail Base 22:24 Hanging 2:9 Hutch, \Vall-Hllng (;010nia 118:16
Jeweh'Y Case 2·1:20 Mi.Tol'S Hall Min'or ~1:1G Round Prame 12: 10 Vanit;,<. Small SWivel 10:5 Vanity. With DI'1Iwe.'.24:24 I'I:mtcl-;; Gedal' Plant Pillars 3:4 Hanging 3:12 Redwood Plant Tub 3:3 Tape"cd-Sided Tub 16:10 Step l:\tool, Shake.' 19:20 Tnbl~$ BlIlIer'. T"ay Table l'I:U) Candle Stan.d, Shnker 11:6 Colree 1:7 Col1'ee. 'three Drawer 19:14·17 Drop Lear, Shake.' 11:8 End 1:7
2
Race Cal' 5:1Z Train 5:10
Turned Projects Canistel' 1·1:1,1 Fruit Bowl 21:8 Goblets 23:4 JOINERY: StEP-8Y-STEP
Benches Garden 3:8
'rl'estl~ 23:2<1
To)'s
Boxes, Small End Grain 'rop 1;;;1:1 Jewelry 9:5 Music Box 6:6 Recipe Box 10:8 Routed, Pree Form 18:12 Slide-Top 17:14 Spice Box, Six-Drawer 6:;) Frames
Elall Mirl'o" 21:16
Octagonal 12:8
Oval 5:9 Note Board 18:24 Round Min' ••' 12:10 SI\OI>PI'Ojects Bow Saw 5:5 Diamond Point Holder 20:7 Drin Bit Storage 4:9 Improved 'fOol Rest 20:7 Leather Slt'Opping Pad 20:7 Marking Gauge 19:13 Nul and seu Storage 4:5, 15:J~ Pencil and Card Holde" 2:12 Revolving Tool Holde" 4:9 Routar Case 4:3 Rouler Table 5:6-8. 20:18 Router Table Stand 22:16 Sharpening Slone Box 20:7 ShOI) Cart 1~:1'1 Shop Stool ,1:11 'fool Holder 4:12 Trammel Point 20: 13 Wedge Clamps 5::~ Small Projects Belt Buckle 10:6 Bindel' 7:4 Book Rack 7:12 Bread Beard 1:1, 20;24 Candle Sconce 6:5 Chrlstmss Ornaments 6:·1 Coin Holder 10:6 Coin Sorter 16:9 Compass 7:3 CooHng Rack 1:2 Cookbook Rack 6:4 Knife H.olcler 10:7 Letter Opener 10:7 Pencil and Card Holder 2:12 Rack> Shaker Peg 2:3 ServingTI-ay 19:19 Spice Box 6:3 Spinning Server 21:10 'ric Rack 1:2 Ti'ivel21:24 Waste Basket 7:0
The articles listed in this section gh'e illformation on how to cul a ll'Il'ticulal' joint, These articles include complete step-bystep drawinga and Insuuctions. Box Joint 2:4, 17:12-1a Dadorrongue (al~o taU~d Rabbet/Dado I 6:8. 10:9. 1$:20·21 Dovetail Lap (Hair-Blind), Hand-cut 22:4-6 Lap (Half-Blind), M"Qhinc-cut 22:(;.9 'through 19:6-11 Throngh Rabbeted 21:$ Tongue and Groove 9:7, 20:22 Dowel. Blind 12;9 D''01l Leaf (Rule) lillO, 1~:8 F,dge-LQ-Edge 15:6-7, 16:12-15. 17:6-9.
•I
18:111-19 ~'ingel' Joint 17:12-13
Stopped 2:5, 15:4 Half Lap. l\1itered 2:! I Mite., Cross 12:9. 21:8-9. 21:17 Locked 9:10 ~lalhem.li cs 12:14 RipiBevel 7:11, 9:9. 16:11 ~Io''lise AIld Tenon Haunehed (for Groove) 8:3-6, 13:10-11, 18:8,9 Molded Edge 24;12-13 Open (Mite.'ed) 16:16-17, 16:18 Open ('fh.'ough) 24:18-19 Staggered Shoulder 13:10-11 'l\dn Tcnoll* 8:5, 12:12 '''edged 15:12 RabuetlDaclo 6:8. 10:9, 18:20 (rl'OOI'C,
Splines Edge-to-Edge 1;;:4,23:22 ~til:oU,'$('Roll 'fop) 17:4-5 JOINfIlY:
CONSTRUCTION EXAMPLES
The artielea listed in this section refer Lo
projects that use a particulru' joiot. These referenees may be-helpful in deciding when and how ~ joint can bo used, Box JOint 17:16-19 Dado 6:4, 6:5, 1:8-9, 12:6, 13:6, 22:20 DadQI'l'ongue (RabbetJDado) 6:6-7, 9:5, 9:U. 10:8, 18:7,21:7,22:14,24:10,24:22,
24:24 Dovetail Lap (Flalf-Blind) 11..4, 12:7. 22:14 Through 19:14-15, 19:19, 19:20-22, 19:24 Tongue and Groove 9:6-7, 11:6-7, 20,26-21, 20:24 WOODSMITl'I
I
-
-
ll
Cutting Duplicate. 23:3 Plywood 22:11 Small Pieces 9:2, 15:15.16, 17:8 Small Strips ~:12 'ramooll< Strips 17:5 Doors, Bllilding 13;8, 18:8, 24:17 Muntillll 13:9 Stops 18:9 Dowels Chamfeling 10:3 Custom Made 19:3 Cutting 16:3 Grooving 16:;) Making 19:3 Sanding 9:l'l U:>e 24:23
Jigs (conlinued) Radial Arm Cut-OCf 17:3 Radial Arm Moruse 16:18 Rnised Panel 2:10, 20:3 ReSOWing6:9 Tambours, Gluing 17:5 Taper CutLing 1:6, ,:;:4, U :3, 11:11 'I'enon Cutting 24:18 Laminating 10:9, 15: 13 ~Iarking Gauge so.is, 21::1 Miters Cutting 12:1~. 20:&-9 Mathematics 12: 14 Panels, Raised 2;10, 8:6, 1-5:12,18:10,20:3, 2>1:21 Plywood, Edging 22:3, 22:11, 22:22 Radial Ann Saw CuI Off 17:3, 22;;3 M.o,tise Jig 16:18 Replacement Inserts 2tl:ll Routel' Jig 20:3 Resawing 6:9, 17:5 Rosa" Inserts 22:11. 2.1::) ROllting CiI:tleg 20:1$, 20:17, 21:10·11, 24:9 DJili Pres.< 10:J 1-}2 Round Corners 17:5 Router Table 7:10. 10:1l, 18:3, 22:16,
F ," .Joint 17:14-15 Ihlf Lap 16:7 II ... Lan. Cross 2:12, 6:12. 13:5. 13:8. 1;:1~·15 Alla·, """".1:6-7, 9:8, 12:11.12:JO,21:10-11, 21:12-[5.21:16, 21:24, 2.~:21,24:16 Rip Bev~l 3:3, 7:5, 8:~11, 13:7. 16:10, 21 :4-6 'I..rtise and Tenon Angled Shoulder ll:S.9 Haunched (for Oroove) 8:8,11. 1l:4-~. i:l:8, 14:10·11, 18:7·8, 18:15. 18:11-18 Drawer Consrruerion Box Joint 11:19 ~1"lded Edge 24:8-9,24:16·17 Open (Mitered) 16:4-5, 16:12.1a Lipped 18:20·21 011011(Tru'Ough) 24:20-21 Dovetail 19:J8 $tl'8igh~ 12:5, 14:~·6, 16:15, 23:8·9, Drawer Gllid~$ 18:22 22:14-15 Drilling Angle -1:10 Stub 22:1,13.·19,24:15 Evenly Spaced Holes 22:23 Twin 12:5, 14:6. 1$:4·6, 18:12·14, HOIizQulal 12:1$ 20:14·1~ t.~the 2:3:4 Wedged 1:3, 15:8-9 RabbetS:3, 6:3, 9:6, 18:22 Drill Press ,Jigs I :6, 18:2;~,22:3 Rule (Drep Leal) 11:8-9, 14:7 Ellipllc. Drawing 5:8, 1,I:;l.16:3, 19:3. 24::~ 24:3, 24:2$ Finishing 'I'echniques \Vith Template 4:'1. 13:~:l Spline Edge·to-E:dge 15:4, 23:1$ Dents, Removing .15:3 Sanding l1iter (Cross) 21:10.11, 21:12-15, 2hlG, Hand-Rubbed Finish 14:9 Circles 11:12, l~:lJ MeaslU;ng 17:3 21;24,22:21,24:1. Dowels 9:12 Glass IS:3 Miter (Rip) 7:5, 7:7, 9:a-!" 21:4·7 Pumice Stone 14:9 SmaU Areas 13:3, 15:3 Parallel 9:8·9 Sealing End OJ'll'n 9:3 'I'ambou,' (noll Top) 4:6-7,17:6-9,17:10·11 Sesler And Varnish 1~:9 Sharpening Tambours 17:4, 20:3 Cabinet Scrapers 1,1:1;! Tongue and Groove 16:1'1,23:12-18, 2S~24 Chisels 20:8·1) Frames Half-Round Arch 21:16 Clearance Angles 20:8. 2.1:18 TECHNIQUES Hexagonal 12:11 Diamond Stone$ 23:18, 24:7 The arucles listed in this section .give Octagonal 12:8-9 Hollow Grinding 20:~, 2.~:IS Japanese \Vater StoJWs 24:,]·6 inlin'mation and detail. fol' speciJi~ woodOval 5:9 wo,'king techniques and procedures (ex. Round 12:10-11 Lathe Tools 21:22, 22~23 cept for joiner)'), Mict'o-BeveIR 20:11, 2a:19 Class Cutting l3:16. 17:20 Plane Irons 2;3:{~ 19 ,"-.t\glc Cutting Sanding 13:3 Stropping 20:It Hexagon 12:11, 16:8. 18:3 Gille Sharpening Stones Mite,' 12:14, 21:8.21:17 CI~.ning 20: 13 Clean up 9"~ Octagon 12;9 Removal 7:3, ) 7:20, 18:a Flattening 20:4-6, 20:13 Tapered Bevel 16:11 Gluing SI)linos Beads, Cutting 14:11, 16:3 Edge-w·E'!ge 15:6-7, 17,20,23:22 Culting 10:3, 21:9 Cabinet Scraper 14:12-13, 17:8 ~fitel'ed Splines 21:!1 USC$ 16:10,21:(>,21:10,21:12,2:1:13 Carpenter's Triangte 15:16 Table Stl\\', Alignment 20::), 28:3 Tambours 17:4 1'8ble TOI~q Circle liinges, Mounting Cutting 19:3 Butler's Table 14:16, 1(;:3 Leaf Sqppo)'I$ 11:8, 1<1:4,20:14, 2:i:U, Routing 20:13, 20:17, 21: lO·11 Door 18:\), 18:3 Mounting 1·1:7, 15:5. 18:6.20:16,21:23 Sanding 11:12 Drop Leaf J 1:10, 14:8 Tambours (Roll-Top) 11:4·fj, 20:3 Clamping Jigs Tapered Legs. llIaU,emalics 11:11 Finger 1:6 Angle Dolling 4:·10 TlI~nin!l Hexagonal Frame 12:11 Bead Cutting 16:3 Bowls 21:18-19 Octagonal Frame 12:9 Box Joint 2:4, 17:1:3 Callipet' SeltiQg 21::3 Table 1'01):; 15:7. 11:3 Circle Sanding 11:)2, 12:11 Canisters 1-1:l'I·J5 Wedge 3:3 Cove CUlling 12;6 CUlting V$, Scraping 21: 18, 2'1:2S Cut.Off 8:12, 11:3,18:28, 22:3, 22:11 Qoblets 2a;,j.7 Cleaning Oil Stones 20:13 Dl111Press )8:2.3 Faceplate Mo\U\ting 2:~:4-7 Saw Blades 2J:23 Fret Work 6:10 UphoL~tering 2:8. 15:11 Cove, Cutting 12:16. 20;23 Horizontal Boring 12:18 Wall Hanging-Techniques 4:12, 18:2.1 Curves, Drawing 21:23 Miter 12:15 \VIIod Storage 19:23 \VOODSMITH.
3
Sources MAIL-ORDER WOODWORKING One of the biggest headaches in Woodworking is lryiltg to find the tools, hardware and finishes needed to build a project. More and more we've come to depend on mail-order CtIUlI()gs for easy access to almost every woodworking product we need. Hel'e'" a list of the eatalogs we use most
ruJllines of quality woedworking tools lind supplies, Each one is. well worth having in lUlY
sholl Iibl'8",V,
WQOOC'llAP'!' SUPPL.Y ,11 Atlantic ,A venue
"WORTH HAVING" CATALOGS P.O. Bo~ ')000 lVobnrn, MaS$achusoll'l Ol81j8 The following catalogs tend to Toll F"ee: (Soo) 22ij·1J5.3 specialize ill certain areas. Catlllog; 82,50 (128 pages) Each one is certainly worth having, if you're interested ill Majrrr qmplta~i8:Quatity hand its individual area, (Listed tools for wood\~or!ring, turning alphaoolieally, l and carving; Hard-to-find tools; Spedality small power CRAP'!' rROllL'C'TS tools: 800k&, 2200 Dean Street 'V'ood~ral't Suppl)' has pro. St. Charlo», Illinois 60174 duced a very complete tool cat- Tel; (312) 5t;4-9000 .log that always Seems to have Glock Book: si.se (11(; pages) Ihe edge when it comes time til emil Pr'odl'cl~ Qfj'e,'; OI1~of pay the fiddler. They also have the best seleeticns of clock a knack fo,' keeping current on movements parts "no kits of the lOOl. (whether new 01' eld) any eatal(.g we've seen, Mold, that ate in demand - the ones ings and other clock 3C~S"Oryou've heal'd about and can't ies are also available. Highl,l' seem to find anywhere else. recommended if you're looking fOl'Clock P"I't~, 21801Indu$lrial Boulevard Rogers, Minnesota 55374 ,'el; (612) 428·4101 Catalog: $1,00 (114 pages)
Maj"r ~1)/JI"fJ,"i":Quality hand
hardware: Veneers, molding! hardwood: Finishing supplies, Whenever W. need cabinet hardware, (hi" i$ the li1-stplace we look, 'rhey carry a complete line of specialty hardware that not only looks nice, but solves a lot of problems, They .I~o earl'S a wide \"ariety of wood finishes "lid supplies, and a good selection of veneers and hardwoods.
\Vf'\,e ~Ce.tl;)n~",'h(l)"e(I)elter
thall most books). This catnlog i~ hi!(hly recoommencled,
4
KT"OClCl'r
P.O. Box (529
Laki! Geneva. Wisconsin 5alJ7 Tel: ('Il-l) 248-1 ~ CaUllog: Free (48 pages) Good selection of quartz (b"tteI'Y operated) clock movements, (lnd also parts and
accessories. LE:)CH1'UNG
4914.Commerce Parkway Cleveland, Ohio 44128 Toll Free: (800) $o31../l840 Catalog: $1. 00 (66 pages) Specializes in quality, jill' ported hand tools at vel'Y reasonable prices, They also Cart')' Lervad workbenchesand M~'
!rita power lOOls. [,eichtung of· rers a number of''sales'' during' the year tbat 'U'C worth getting ill on.
'rJoiE WOODWORKERS' STORE
GARIUm WAOt~ HIl Avenue Of T.he Americas New York, New York 100J3 Toll Free: (800) 22),2942 Catalog: $8.()()(:M.I pages) tools for woodworking. [urnillg and carving: ~'il1ishing supplies: Japanese tools: WOI'kbenches; Inca power tools: Books. Withou; " doubt, thi~ is the tlnC:.~tcatalog we've seen. Gal'''' rett Wade has reeognized the need for quality wootlwn1'king tool. and provides them in one or Ihe mest beautiful catalOg\< on the market. But more important their catalog also Slipplies a wealth of solid huormatiun ~tthe ooglnning of each "ch,.pter." The description of linishing ~upplie~, for example. j:; ~'n)()I\gthe be:~l jurorrnation
CATALOGS
Ma.io" c"IPh(J$is: Cabinet
WOOD FIN ISHINC SUPPLY
Dept. 2C 1267 Mat';' Drive Macedoll, New York 14:;02 Tel: (3t5) 986-1517 Catnlog; $.~,(J()(56 I,ng.$) .I10.iOl'emp/(n,';": Fillishes and linishing $UIlI)lics. 'l'hi. is tho mosLcomplet. ent.· log of wood finishes and I'elated SUI'I)lieSwe."'. founel. Not only do they 011(,1'evcry finish we've ~\'(\l' heal11of, but they provide rxeellent inf(wmation on "'hen ond how to use it.
();RA~·rS)IAloIIVO(lU!
and veueere, but the se..
leetion of tools and hardware is 1IIsoquite good. However. it'. organized in a "random search" method that's very ,1IInoyinl(, anel the descriptions "I' the pt'Oduets need to be expanded. TH£ fiNE TOOL
suor
P.O, Box 1262 20 Backus Avenue Danbury, Connecticut 06810 Tel: (203) 797-0772 Catalog; $1,00 (1)8 pageR) Fille Tool ClIl'r!es" goo(1$e· leetioll of quality woodwol'!
~IASON A}lD SUI"[,IVAN
ij86 Higgins Crowell Road \Ve~lYarmouth
Cape Cod, Mass. 02678 Tel; (617) 778,0475 C.talolC: free ($2 pages) A ""mbinalion of clock kits anet movements, Their emphasis is on the kit" but (hey also oltel' the movements and parts needed to build docks of l'0IQ' Own design. II'QOD(:ARVER'S SUPPJ.Y
30$ ExcelSior 'Blvd. ~linneapoli~, Minne.ota 554W Tel; (6~2) 927·7491 Catnlog: $2,00 (7l'-pages) One of the mos; eompleie tatalog,; of woodcarving tools and accessories on the market. A1S<1o)cludes .landat~1 Ivol)(1· working powe,' and hand tools, IVOOD,"IN£
ITJ1 Clement Avenue AJcm~dQ,Calilol'nia 94001 Tel: (415) 521·1810 Catalog: $1.50 (50 pagl!s) Woodline pl'ovitles the Im·,est selection of J aponese woodworking tools in the U,S, Since Japanes. tools nre all they oITer, Woodline has the best setection, and the best infOl1llatio)1on the pl'Ol)Ilr Cal'e and use of the Japanese tools. WOODSMlT~
\oV
___
S_b_o~Notes SOME TIPS FROM OUR SHOP
•
•
Temporarily tack the plywood to the .,ble saws can do II lot of things, but. mctimes !.hey need atitt,le help, We used runner with small brads, Then pick up the . ,'u llifferenl cutting jigs (0 make some of' base and turn it over to drill pilot holes and . be "specialty" cuts needed for the projects drive SCI'e"'$ to secure the runnel' to Lhe this issue, base, Return this assembly to the saw and mount the outside runner so .it fits sl)ugly PANEL/CUT-OFF JIG against the wooden sl,,;p on the end of the The Iirst Jig is one we oliginally used to cut extensicn wing, "Iued-up panels to size back in lVoQdsmilit Now Illim lhe working end of the base :-;0, 18, Since then we've been using it tor square l)y pushing it lhl'ough the saw more and more "specialty" cuts. btade. (This way you know the end of the Cl"l'TINO 1.0l!lC PANfllS, For instance, the base is exactly on the path of the blade,) TI)E PI!NCE,Finally, add the fence to the plywood top of the Cortee Tuble in this issue had til be cut to a length of 44 !&", This trailing edge of lhe base, Chamfer the i.< a difficult cut to make because the Tip inside edge of this fence to create It Sawrence (on most saws) can't go beyond 24", dust relief, Then use a large framing and a miter gauge is too small to give square to position the fence square with adequate support for a workpiece this the working edge (and the blade), and glue and nail it in place, large, Instead, I used the panel-cuttingjig k. n giant miter gauge to sUpPO,'Lthe Up LO this point the jig is the same as tbe one shown in Woocfflmit/I No, 18, But replywood while cross-cutting it. LO length, Cl'1'-(W~'rro. This same jig served an- eently I added a moveable stOll to lile other role when (cut the legs (01' the Coffee Table and the pieces fol' the drawers 6f the Shop Storage Cabinet, In both cases, I wanted to cut several pieces to identic,,1 length, And I was able to use the panelcutting jig as a cut-off jig bJr adding a moveable stop block, CONSTRUCTION, The basic jig i~ very "allY to make. CUt a piece of II,· plywood for the base about 16" wide and long enough to extend 12· past the wing of the table saw, The base is gl!ided with LWO runners. f~nce, This il; ~impll' a matter of cutting' The first runner is cue to fit the miter anothel' strip the same width 8$ the fence. gauge channel. The second runner is Before adding this second strip, cut two mounted to the outside edge of the small squares of \I.i" plywood. GlUe the plywood base so ill'ides sgatnst the ed!,'t!of plywood squares to the ends of the first. the extension wing, (Some extension fence, and then add the top strip, This will wings have bolts along the edge.s, so you form a II..' groove for a carri age bolt that holds the wooden stop block to the fence, IISINGTH~JJ(~. To gel the best.Ieleanest) cuts when using this jig, [ use a three-cut procedure. Pi,'St, cut all of the pieces to a I'ough length (about y," longer than needed), Then cut a clean end on one end of each rough piece, ~lnt'k the final length on one ofthe pieces (measu,ing from the clean end), an(\ adjust the stop block so the cut is made on this mark, AU remaining pieces can be cut to identical length using the block as a sure may wat to add a wooden strip to the edge stop for the !llllli length. of the wing.) RIPPING JIG ASSEMBLY, To assemble the jig. place the fit'St runner ill the miter gauge channel '!'he second jig is used for ripping very and spread a thin bead of glue along the top nal'IOOW strip,', like the tambour strips fOl' of it. Then position the plywood base over the T, V, Cabinet shown in this issue, The ~he runnel' so the "working" end of the normal procedure when cutting narrow plywood extends into the path Mtlle blade. strips is t.o work otT the outside of the WOOOSMITM
board. (If the cut is made so the all'ip is between ,he blade and the rip fence, there's a danger klckback.)
or
But this procedure is kind of a hassle because you have to re-set the fence fo,'
each cut. To get around this problem, I use a push shoe that allows you to rip very 1181'1'OW pieces with-a'llt re-setting' Lhe fence, 'fo make this shoe, ril) a piece ofplywood to a width of about 6", 11lell make asecond (Ilal'tial) cut about II," from the outside edge of the shoe, Stop this cut 3" to 4· from the end of the plywood and cut.offthe loose edge with a hand saw. This will create a small "heel" ($tOII)at the end of the shoe, To rip the tambour strips, hold the shoe firmly against the fence and measure the width of cut you want (Yo.in this case) Irom tbe lert side of the shoe to the inside of the blade, Then use the shoe to push the workpiece through the blade, ROUTING NARROW PIECES
One last (very simple) jig, When I chamfered the top edges ofthe table legs for the Coffee 'table, j wanted til use tbe router table, BuL making any kind of cut on the end ora long-narrow workpiece (like a table leg) is tlWkW81'd at best, and sometimes CUT PlYWOOD SQUAR.E, FENCE ,
IOUTQ lABU
dangerous, The problem is that you can't hold the workpiece square to the fence as you feed it through the bit, '1'0 get around this problem I use a simple piece of plywood as a stabilizing guide, Just, hold the workpiece against the plywood to keep it square with the fence as you move it th,'o.ugh the bit,
13
Tambour T.v. Cabinet VIDEO EQUIPMENT -
OUT OF SIGHT
Donkey Kong. Can you believe that'. the name for one of those new video games? Of course as soon as 1found out about it, 1had to be the first on my block to get in on all this excitement. All you need, I discovered, is a video home computer (A tari), some ''joy sticks" and a collection of game cartridges, There is one drawback however. One evening while I was absorbed in a hot game o[ Space Invaders, Imissed the latest episode ofoOallas." So, now I needed a "ideo cassette recorder to tape the shows I missed while I was playing video games. Modem electronics has made "elaxation a real challenge. Ahnos~ overnight, all sorts of video attachments have come out to keep everyone glued to the tube. But there is a silver lining to this electronic cloud, All of these gizmos need a home. A good excuse, r thought, to break away from the tube, head for the shop and build a T. V. cabinet to store all these gadgets. Idecided to have some (old-fashioned) fun and build this cabinet with a tambour (roll-top) door in front of the T. V. Then, with a bow to contemporary styling, [also though; it would be nice to have smokedglO$$ doors in fron~ of the video storage compartment. And 0$ it turned out, these two features provided more challenges than Pae ,Man. DIMENSIONS
This cabinet is designed to hold a 19" television set, a video recorder and .a video
computer game. Since all of these things can vary widely in size from model to model, you may have to alter the dimensions of this cabinet. The maximum usable space in the T. V. compartment (with the tambour door open) measures 28" wide by 1914' hil1h. And the usable area for the two shelves (behind the glass doors) is 26' wide by 814' high, and 16V," deep, These dimensions should be large enough for most video components. But you may want to check before you build. THE CA81NET 51DE5
Istarted construction with the two "web frame" sides of the cabinet. These frames are fairly easy to build - they're just 514 solid oak frames with 0/,' oak veneer plywood panels. TOE STll.ES. After I had decided on t.he overall dimensions of cabinet (allowing for the usable space requirements given above), J cut the pieces for the frame from
l4
514 oak. (514 stock is 1y,." thick.) The stiles (G, vertical pieces) are ripped to a width of
2' and cut to length to the full height of the cabinet (48"). THE RAILS. The rails (H, horizontal pieces) are also ripped to a width 0(2" and a length of HW,".
rabbets on the ends Of each rail. making sure the shoulder-to-shoulder distance between the rabbets is IS", see Fig. 1P[' YWOOD rAN .. i., Now, the frames (rails and stiles) can be dry-clamped togutha,· to get measurements for the plywood panels (A). Icut these panels a bare V,." short of the groove-to-groove measurements of the frames to allow fo,' glue squeeze-out. Next, cut rabbets 011 the i"8'id~raceoiall fow' sides of tbe plywood panels. This should leave:Y'( x%" tongues that fit in the grooves in the frames. These rabbets should be cub so the inside face to the plywood panel is exactly flush with the inside face of the frame, see fig. 2, Finally, the frames and plywood panels can be glued and clamped together, WOOOSMITH
GROOVES FOR SHELVES !,:' er
the frames are assembled, mark out • p!)£ition of the stopped grooves used to Ill" the top (B), the bottom (D) and the , " • shelves (C and E), see Fig, 1, I cut each of these Yo. x '1',- grooves with router (using a piece of scrap plywood <..unped to the frame as a guide for the ......,or tit. router), Each groove stops l y,,' -nort of both the front and back edges of '., frame . , , except the frOnt edge of the nird groove from the tap; it's stopped 3" {rom the front edge, see Fig, I. I'HA.".'ER encss. After the gt'ooves .ere cut, I chamfered all edges of the frames on a router table with u chamfer bit, see Fig, 3.
AGURE I
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RAB8ET INSIDE Met! or: fIlY'WOOD
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TAMBOUR GROOVE
The tambour for this cabinet rides in an L-shaped groove, Since the tambour l!1'oO\'es on both sides must match perfectly, Imade a template to cut them. TilE 'rE~rpl.ATE, The dimensions for the template (shown in Fig. 4) are based on using a router with a o/t~'outer-diameter guide bushing. This is a fairly standard .i~e, and should be aV3ilabie for any make of router, '1'0 make the template, cut a piece of v.' ~'1asonite1m wide by24"long, and clamp it to one of the cabinet's side frames so the tOP edge of lhe template is 1¥.· from the top edge of the frame, Next, 2Y." radius curves are marked on the front and back corners. The center point for the f,'Ont curve is 2\4" from both edges of the template. The center point of the back curve is 2l1" Irom the top edge and 3l1.' from the back edge, After marking this back radius, con, tinue the curve gently out to the back edge, see Fig. 4. (Any gentle curve will work here, as long as it's not too abrupt.) Once the curves are marked, cut lhe template to shape with a sabre saw, Then carefully sand out any roughness on the cut edges of the template. ROUTINe) rns GROOVE. Making the template was the hard part, Routing the groove is relat.ively easy. Tack the template. in place with small brads as shown in Fig, 'I, (This will position the template so the groove is cut only on the solid wood, and not on any part of the ply\yood panel.) Then rout tha groove with a v,. carbidetipped straight router bit set to a cutting depth of 0/,.-, When routing the tambour groove On the left side frame, strut the router on the back edge (as shown in Fig, 4). Then to rout the groove on the right side frame, start. the route" at the front edge (a~ the ..elf groove). By using this procedure, the router always moves to the left so the rotation of the bit forces the guide bushing against the template,
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TOP, BOTTOM AND SHELVES
Once the cabinet's sides are completed, the top (B). bottom (D) and &WO shelves (C and E) call be cut from the remaining o/.i" oak plywood (see Cutting Diagram on page 19), Three or these pieces (the top, che T.V. shelf, and the bottom) are ripped to a width of 150/.0".'the second shelf (El i. ripped to a ,,'idtb of 14%', see Fig. 6. Then aU tour pieces are cut to. length of 2S'Y". [('5 rather impcrtant that all four
DiRECTION"
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NOTl; NO RA&~fT ON FROtJt EDGE
01'all foul'E!dges of'three orthel?ieces (B, D
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pieces be eui to exactly the same length. To do this, Icut them a little long to begin with and then trimmed them with the panel cutting jig SbO\\1. on page 13. IUllBETS. Next, rabbets aloe cut on all rOUI' pieces in order LO form 0/,' x 'v.," tcngues, see Fig. Ii, These rabbets are cut and C). However. the front edge of the base £01' the sllding $heU' (E), iij )IQI rabbeted, see ~'ig.8, Shop Note: When cutting rabbets in plvwood, you get the cleanest cut with a raUI.I', ~Ilt.her than a table saw blad., 1 used the router tabltl (shown in l'{ood$>II#h N u. 20) to cut these rabbets, After the rabbets are cut, all foul' pieces can be glued and clamped into the grooves in the-side frames.
fiGURE 7
EDGING AND MOLDING STRIPS
1-, I 1 V.
FIGURE 8
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The I'$\\' plywood edges ot these fou)' pieces are covered with solid 0111utof oS 'I stock to fit exactly between the cabinet side" rOnly seven pieces IU'e needed beeause the ti'Ont edge of the "liding ahelf base is eevered with a simple y., edging .lIip, see Pig. 8,) Xext, cut a ""'. x 0/,( groove on the edge Qf each edging strip to Iit On l he tongues Of the plywood. see Figs. 7 and 8, Once these strips are. cut Ihe;' elm be glued and elamped to the plywoOd tongues. )!OL01:;G STRII'S, The top and bottom of the eabinet also have molded racing strips, see l-'ig. 7. Two of these strips (one on the ihmt and one on the back of the top) are used to cover the curve of the tambour. The third molding strip (on the bottom)
"1
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MOt1)tNG STRIP
tAMBOUR GROOVE
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To make these strips, lip three boards 2J1,,'wide and cut them to length to fie between the sides. Then cut a SO' beveJ on the back of the L\\IO strips for the top, see detail in rig. 8. Next, round over the top outside corner of nil three pieces with a ¥,," COrner round bit, (I did Lhis on the router table.) And finally. cut a y.,N deep x 0/.... wide rabbet opposite the rounded corners. , After these sttips are cut, they can be glued to the edglng strips. THE SLIDING SHELF
NO AP~ONON
I-f-BACK 'OG'
Depending on what you plan to use this cabinet for, the sliding shell' may IIOL be WOOOSMITH
!\o,iI
eeessary. I added it for a video recorder ...-eause most recorders need ,ICOOsSto the : 'J) co load the video caSsette, Tbe width of this sliding shelf is CUL a .~ta1ofZ"less than the inside width of the .abinet (to allow I" space on both ends), The depth is exactly the same as the depth f the base shell' (E), Afte,' tbis slidingshelfis cut to size, cuna . !"abbet on the frollt edge to leav. a ·.ngue, see Fig. 9, Then the pull bar (0) is ripped to a width of 2", and a 'Yo' x :v.' l!l'O<>"cis cut to mate \\;Ih vhe tongue on the shelf, Finally, • fingergrip is cut.on the back of the (lull bar with a 14-cove bit (on 'he router table), see detail In Fig. 9, The sliding shett is mounted to the base ,hclf with metal drawer (shelf) slides, The ones I used require two dadoes on the bottom of the sliding shelf fo,' plastic guide runners, These slides (with complete instructions) are available from The Wood. workers" Store Catalog
Allhaugh thet'e'. no back on the p.rtofthe cabinet behind the T. V. set, I wanted to add • back behind the shelf area to strengthen the cabinet (to prevent racking), j went all out and made a web frame with a v,o" plywood panel. see fig. 10, 'I'his frame fits between lhe sides of the cabinet and is attached (screwed) to the back edge oflheT:V. shelf and to the bsek edge of the cabinet's bottom, First, cut the rails and stiles to size to fit thls.area.Thsn cut a YI" x licit groove 011 the inside edge of each piece for the plywood panel. Finally, cut ~"-long $tub tenons on the ends of the rail. to fit the grooves, see detail in Fig. 10, Before gluing this web frame together, J CUt two slots in the plywood panel to nul the wtres fm' the video equipment,
FIGURE 9 SliDING SH~LFTOP
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2
you sand.)
~Vhenyou're done sanding. wipe off Ute excess paste and oil, and let tbe whole thing sit foJ' about 1 hour, Then add another coat of oil (without ~anmng), This method produces a natoral-looking' finish that'. as soft as a baby's bottom. WOODSMITH
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FINISHING
The tambour door and the glass doers still have to bemounted to the cabinet, (See the next two pages.) However, before these doors were mounted, r finished the cabinet \\~th Watco Danish Oil. The best way we've found to apply wacco oil (especiaUy on open-pored wood like oak) is to use a liberal amount ofoil and wet-sand all surfaces with 22G-gtit (Wetor-Dry) silicon carbide paper, As you sand, small amounts of sawdust \\;11 mix with the oil to form a thin paste that fillS the pores of the wood. (Itthis paste gets too thick, just add more oil as
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EDGING STRIP
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LV, SHElf SCREW
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SllOlNG SHElF TOP
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S.,.ttF BASE-
D 80TTOM SHltf
- EDGING SliUP
17
THE TAMBOUR
It just, doesn't seem fair that somethi.ng as InyltteMous as a tambour should be so easy to build. 'l'heseeret behind a tambour (rolltop) is a simple piece of canvas. The tambour strips are glued to a canvas backing that's flexible enough to follow tile grooves in the cabinet. That's it. Easy enough, but it does require some work. The tambour I made for the T. V. cabinet is kind of a "roll-nod-pleat" design. Each tambour strip is a "custom-made" halfround molding strip, You need 30 strips in all, but it's best to make at least 40 because there's bound to be some waste. All of these strips are cut from 4/4 ('0/,," thick) boards. As shown in ~he Cutting Diagram, I used (OUI' 51'?· wide boards, cut to length to match the final width of the tambour. (This width should be 28%', which is ~. less than the distance between the tambour grooves in the cabinet.) ROIlND EDGES. I used. router table and table saw to make the half-round strips. First 1 rounded over both edges of each board with a %" comer-round bit (on the router table), see Fig, 1. Then I used a notched jig to cut off 'Ys'-thick strips on a table saw, see Fig. 2. (More
over the ends of'theetrips. ~J\1akeSUl'" the strips are square with the hold-down bars.) Then tack the back cleat in place, push the strips tight against this cleat, and tack down the front cleat to bold them _II in place. GLUE ON C,,",WAS. Now the canvas backiugcan be glued to the backs of the strips. I used a light-weight artist's canvas that's available at art stores. However, denim (blue jean material) could also be used. Spread a thin layer of glue (I used Titebond) across all of the strips. Then lay the canvas (or denim) over the tambour strips and press it in place with a veneer roller 0" a rolling pin. Aftet about 1 hour, wry Cf),rejl,lly take the tambour out of the jig and "crack" the joints. [f any glue has seeped through the This strip is 'Yo" thick by 1" wide (see r'ig. cracks between the strips, you want to 3). I used the jig again to resaw it off a crack them apart before the glue has a piece of 514 scrap. chance to harden, As you crack the joint." SllLECTION. After the sL"ips are cut. let roU the tambour into a loose cylinder. them sit for a day or two until they get all Stand this cylinder on end and le~ the glue the warping and twisting out of their S>'.- cure overnight. tern. Then the selection process begins: RAllS!."!'. Since the strips of this tambour thick, the outside edges of the choose the best of the bunch, avoiding are those that are badly warped or twisted. tambour need to be rabbeted to fit the 'CLUING JiC. To hold .11 these strips v.r·\\ide greaves in thecabinet. I cut these together while gluingQIl the canvas, Iused rabbets on a table SaW, see Fig. 6. a.simplejig, see Fig. 4. This jig is just two Set the height of the blade to leave a side bars with a %'-deep rabbet on one 'Y,"-~ick by VI'-Iong tongue. It's best to edge, and front and back cleats. kind of sneak up on this cut, testing the fit Lay the mounting strip and the SOtam- in the tambour groove until the tambour bour st.ipsface down on a piece of scrap slides easily (without binding) but doesn't plywood, and tack the rabbeted side bal'$ rattle around too much.
0/,.
\S£lK130 GOOD STRlps CUT
FOA TAMBOUR
on-
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.v.AOUNO CORNER all Cut 51/."·,.,ide boa-I·d. to the final Use a notJ:hed jig to ,·tp tJUJ lam/)Qul' You'll also need a -l{,".lhick ",o"nting 1 wngtk of th« talltboltr. Then: rot"ui· 2 strips to a lilickmess oj' ";'". The'l re- 3strip. I cut this from a pi(Jl;eof 511i ouer /)Qlltedges witka 0/1'comer-TOllnd bU. Peat untif, yo" have 40 strips. 8crap 10get 1M final ,uidtlt of 11/,,,. [IrOC6$8
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PRES.SAND SMOOTH CANVAS OVfR GLUED STRIPS
DOWN HO~O DOWN
BAR
CLEAT PlACE 3D STRIPS
FACEDOWN
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SPREAO THIN lAYER Of GlU£ ON STRIPS
TO HOLD DOWN BAR
Use a jig witl, ''(lbbeted side /)QTS to hold tlte strips in pUu:s. ll1.oke slIre slrips are positilYl.ed square with bars.
4
18
5
Spread tlli:1Lla,YBrof gl1le over back of
tambo",·. Then lay can"as (qrde:nill~) in pillee atld roll down witl< a ·rolli1lQpill.
c,,! rabbets 01. both edge.
of Ike /0.11\' bolt" to lea:V8 I/t-wide by 'Y,,···thick ttm{Jllesto fit tne I/;"·,vide gYOOlJ6S.
6
WOODSMITH
THE lifT BAR
_
The last step On the tambour is to make a iill bar (0 match the molding strips on tbe 'Oil and bottom of the cabinet, Rip a board o a width of 2W' and to a length that's Vi' sees than the inside measurement of the cabinet (to allow clearance). Then resaw it ,rip 011 edge) to a thickness of 0/,1'. FINGERSLOT. I decided to get a little (ancy with the finger slot on the lift bar. Drill two )"·dlameter holes 4' apart, see Fig. 7. These holes are centered 100' down from the top edge of the lift bar. Since Ihe bottom "dge of the lin ba,''). rounded-over, th1l puts the finger slot at tbe lIislwice'lle,' or the lift bar. After the holes are drilled, clean out the center with a sabre saw and file the edges smooth. Then round-over the inside edges of the linger slot with a v.,' cornerround bit (on the router table). Also, round tbe bottom edge of th.• lilt bar with a Y,' eomer-ronnd bit, see Fig. 7. A1'1'ACII, To mount the lilt bat', fil'St slide the lambolIl' into the cabinet. Then the bar is attached (from the back side) to the mounting strip with 0/,;' pan-head SCI'eWS. \ I used pan-head screws because Ineeded to add a washer so the point of the SCI'ew didn't go through the front of the lift bar, see cross-section in Fig. 8.) Finally, [ added a piece of weathe rs trip Ui the bottom of the mounting strip to act Ill' a shock absorber, see Fig. 9,
FIGURE 7
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1 -fiNGER SLOT
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ROUND OVER EDGES Of SlOt WIIH y. eO/NEt .!lUND N01E1 af.S'AW
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STRIP
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_'I. GlASS 'IVO' HINGE
'I.-GlASS
MATERIALS LIST
'1..- PLATE GLASS
Ovorall Dimensions: 48!h"H x 3rrw . 19"L 0/",)( 15~·44'1. B Top Sh.ff (I) )/'" x 150/.. - 28Y", C T.V. Sh.1I (I) 'I", x 1 so/.. • 28'1.. 0 Bohom Sholf (I) 'I", x 150/.. • 280/" E Sliding Sholf Bo•• (I) 'I..x t 40/•• 28'1", f Sliding Sholf (I) 0/.. " 16.26 G Side StU., (2) l'h6x2.48 H Side Rails (2) "I. .. x 2: .. 15'1. Edgin9' Slrip$ (1) 1 V'6 x 1".14 . 28 J Tombour Strip' (40) '0/'6 x 'f... l8'n I(' Molding Pieces (3) "1,. x 2Y, .. 2.8 L Lift 80' (1) Yo.x 2V, .. 270/. M Bock Rail. (2) 'V,. x 2'1. . 28 N Bac&!Stiles (2) '0/,. x 2V. . 17 ,;sI,. x 2 . ~6 o Pull Ou' 60r(l) A Sides (2)
GLASS DOORS
The last step on this cabinet is to mount the srneked-glass doors. The whole triek to mounting glass doors is the hardware. The hardware I used is available from Tbe \Voodworkers' Store catalog. The door hinges are listed as "PiVot Hingel; 1"0\' Glass DOOI'8"Cat. No. D5612 (pol. ished chrome), $2.35 pel' pair. ( went ahead and mounted the hinges (see Fig. jO) in order to ge~ tho fillal measurements for the glass doors. 1'h~height of each door should be a total of %' less than the height of the cabinet opelling. (This allows ;y.,' at the top and bottom for the hinges.) The width of each door should allow 0/'4" 'bel-ween the two doors and about ;y.,,' on the outside edge (between the door and the side of the cabinet). !had the doors cut (at a local glMs company) a total of 0/.' les.q than one-hhlf with width of the cabinet opening (0 allow a little extra clearance. 1'he doors.are mounted in the U-channel of the door hing'!! and held in place with two small screws and a friction plate. r also mounted two "No-Bore Glass Door Pulls" Cat. No. D3410 (Polished Chrome), 82.95 each, These handlesjust.mount to the edgll of the glass. Finally, 1 added small mag· netic catches behind the handles to hold the doors closed.
Oftlll!
olAMfTElt HOLE
aRlll HOIE-ljIf'
fROM fllOHT EDGE OF EDG.NG snup. :V.• fftOM ~OE
CUnlNG
5/4 (1 Vi....) x
DIAGRAM
5'/,<" .. 12"
i C
E
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A
19
Coffee Table CLEAN LINES WITH SUBTLE ACCENTS
Most of thl} time think of using a router. [ think in terms of making a lot of fancy molding cuts. But l\ router can also be used to add a few subtle touches that help define the shape and design of a pl'Oject. This coffee table is a good example of putting a router to work. Actually, I should say a router table (like the one shown in IVood8!)litit No. 20). I used a router table to make most of the joints for this table, as well as the molding (chamfer) cuts on the pieces for the top and legs.
tongue and groove joints, refer to Fie, S. I found it was best to cut the grooves in the banding stlips before cutting the ton~'1l'" on the plywood, Cut the four strips to a final width of 1 and to Toug:hlength (about I" longer than needed), see Fig. 1. Since these strips are'¥t," thick (the actual thickness of I I hardwood) and the plywood is only
BANDING STRIPS
All four edges of the plywood top are banded with solid (oak) edging strips. These strips are joined to the plywood with
20
Il.p<'CIIS ) To cut thh; rabbet, switch to a 0/<" stnil!ht bi, .,,( to 1\ depth of cut of \I.,'. T1wn ;uJju<\ the fence so the rabbet laavca •• .~ t..ngue. see Fig. 4. This cut b made with the banding strip Ill) 0<1;:< "",I the marked race of the strip tiIcin
THE PLYWOOD TOP
Normally, when building a table, I would start with the base (the legs and aprons) and then add the top, But for this coffee table I found it easier to start with the top because of the ·way the notched comers of the top fit,around the legs, see detail photo at right. Cll'lTINGTHE !'LYWOOO. The fil'St step is to cut a pieceofo/.i·plywood to size. (l used oak-veneer plywood for this table.) The plywood is ripped to a width of 1811i' first and then cut loa length of44 11"., see Fig. 1. However, cuLtinga2' x4' sheet ofplywood down to a 4411," length is "eI'Y awkward because you can't use the rtp fence to guide the piece. Instead, 1used the panel cutting jig (shown on page 13) to cut the plywood to length.
I rabh.:t on th.. outside !lC1~.(This rabbet is u..~!at.!r tu mount the table top to the
thick. the grooves shoukl be Illightly olrcenter (so t he top face ofthe banding strip, is llush with the top face er the plywood I. CGTTHf.GROO"f.S. Mark what will be the toll face of each handing strip. Then [used aYo" straight bit on the router table to CUl the 0/,,' -deep grooves. Set lfte fence exactly Yo' from the bit (see Fig. 3). and use a reathel' clamp to force the marked lace of the strip against the fence, see Fig. 2. When the groove is cut. it should leave II v." shoulder 011 the top edge, then the v." groove in the middle, and finally a 0/,0" shoulder on the bottom, see Fig. 5. RAIlBt.'T.Each of these pieces .11\0 has a
;
After lhetongues
are cut on [he plywood top, tbe banding
~lJ,ps can be cut to final length. 'l'he end of each strip should stop at the shoulders of the rabbets on the top face of the plywood, refer to Fig. 10. This will leave an open corner Lhat (its around the legs of the table. ASSEMBLY
Now the banding strips ean be glued and clamped to the edges of the plywood top. WOODSMITH
MATERIALS UST
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Since there's a rabbet.on the outside edges of all the banding SImps, iL helps to cut a small filler strip so the clamp contacts a full-thickness edge, see Fig. 7, TRIM CORNERS. Once the glue is dry, trim the excess plywood from the open eornees of the top, see Fig. 10, F'inally, the surface ofthe table top should be sanded to remove any variation between the bSI\ding strips and the plywood, V·GROOVES AND CHAMFER CUTS
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No matter how hard r t,'Y, r find it ve,'y difficult to get the face of a plywood LOPto match porfectly with solid-wood banding strips, Even when I'm successful, the .Glid wood st"ip.o;and plywood top will expand and contract at different rates with seasonal changes in humidity - so there's a1mo.,t aJway~some variation between lhe 'w ",,"aces, 'T ",,'I around this problem, I cut a smaU \'.I!' ·vc right at thejo;nt Iil)eofthe bandinl! !!tr." .md the 1>lywood,This V-groove mak .. " ".'T difficull tq see (or feel) any vrui:,tl' n j..[, :h~ two surfaces. r u,...., i • \'-zroeve router bit on the router \l.bl. '., make these cuts, see Fig. 8, I ~ The point .,[ tbc bit should be right on lhe IF
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scant ~.. "'hf." routil\!l' this V-groove. I eonunued iL out a!· ng the end grain of the banding ~trip;;,.
CIMMF£RI!.(>(;F';:Aflel' the V-grooves
,., I were cut, Imad. a malching chamfer CUI on all of the ~u\:
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21
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In order to get blanks big enough for the 2"-'l(juare legs, I laminated three pieces of 414 stock for each leg. First cut a total of 12 pieces to a rough Iength of 1'1"and rough width of 2",.". Then glUe three pieces together to fOl'meach leg. When the glue is d~y, lip the legs down to final size of 2" x 2", making two cuts in order to keep the Joint lines an equal distance from the outside faces ofthe legs, See Fig. ll. MORTISES. The legs are joined to the aprons with mortise and tenon joints. (See l¥oods"'ith 1'10. 18 for complete step-bystep instructions on making a mortise and tenon joint.) The mor~ises Oil these legs are cut- 0/,,,. noomthe outside edge, and 'YoN down from the top edge of tbe leg, see Fig. 11. (This top measurement allows enough room for the top edge of the apron and the tongue of the banding strip, re fer to Fig. 16.) I arranged the legs in their final position and marked out the mortises so the face grain of each leg would be on the long side of the table, and the edge grain (with the glue lines) would be at the ends. Then Icut the morti$es on a drill press by drilling a series of holes with a 'Ys" bit. CHAMFJ;:R J;:OGES. After the mortises were cut. I chamfered all four corners and the top and bottom edges of the legs on the router table with a chamfer bit. (See page 13 for more on this teehnique.)
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THE APRONS
Since the table's top has already been built, the aprons must be cut to accept the dimensions of the top. Rip the four aprons to a width of 2\4". Then the aprons are cut to length so they're equal to the length of the banding strips on the table top, plus enough for the tenons on each end. I used the banding strips as a gauge to mark all' the sboulder-to-shoulder length of the apr-ons (the distance between the shoulders of the two tenons.) Then t added 2" (for the two l"_IOngtenons). Wnen cutting the tenons, r set up the saw to makea test cut on a piece of scrap to make sure the outside face of the apron met the chamfered edge of the legs, see Fig. l~. Once the outside face was cut, I made a cut on the inside (ace to set the thickness of the tenon so it fit sml~ly in the mortise. (This, in effect, is cuttillg two rabbets, leaving a tenon to fit the wialh of the mortise.) Then the shoulders on the top and bottom edge of the tenon are CUl to fit the height or the mortise. Finally, round-over the come rs of the tenon with a file so it fits therounded ends of the mortises, see Fig. 12. ROUT secss, The last step on the aprons is to cbamfer the two bottom edges of the
22
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CORNER OETAJl CflOSS SECTION
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GLUE UNES PARAllEL WITH LONG APRON
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aprons, see Fig. 13. And then round over the top outside edge with a Vii' cornerround bit, see Fig. 14.
j RGUJlE 16
--
ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING
Now the aprons and legs can be glued and clamped t<>gether. Before tight:.cning the damps, set the top in place to hold everything square. AI)DTIlETOP. \Vhen the glue i~dry, the top can be glued and clamped to the aprons, Since there isn't a good clamping surface on the top, place a piece of scrap wood across the width of the table top to use as a surface fOl'the C·clamps. FllUSU1NG. I applied three coats of Hope's Tung' Oil Varnish to the table top and two coats to the legs. This finish is very easy to apply and has just enough varnish in it to protect the top.
CHAMttR eOnOM EDGES
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WOODSMITH
______ T:~a~lk~i~ngSho~ _ AN OPEN FORUM FOR COMMENTS AND QUESTIONS CHAIR SEATS
I hart ll,coodworki>lUquestio>~tlUIt[ hope go.t can answer. /''111. in tit. "l'Ocessof nUl"· ill{/ a set of walnut bar stools, and so far, ['116cut, all of tile pieces tvit/UlIIt a'fY "rob. le'lll~,But when it ca'llletime to hollo>. out t/1.6 <,h4i1' seat; I was stuck. lVhat I 'IOOS hoping io do ill disk Qut ti,e seat si.1I.ila'l' to til!' old. office chair seats. Sift 1ca,!'t/iu",'. out the belftmethod to do I/.~ (a router, or asallder?), Do 1/ou have
All of these tools are available from either the Garrett Wade or Woodcraft Supply catalogs. (Addresses are given in the special catalog section of this issue.) For more information on old tools and how they're used, an excellent source is the book Ollt IV wys of Wo,.king Wood by Alex W. Bealer; $12,50 in the Garrett 'Vade catalog, SOURCES FOR TURNING
FINISHES
However. I have to agree with Mr. Wallace that a warning should be made. Du."recommendation is that if your plane has either a cast iron Y-yoke, or if you're not quite sure what type of metal it's made of, don't try to crowbar the leg.s or the Y-yoke with a screwdriver. After all, it's a tot bette,' to live with a working plane that has a slightly sloppy adjustment than to have one with no adjustment at all.
THE HAIR·LlNE CRACK \Ve've received. lot of mail asking where to purchase Behlen'S Salad Bowl Finish In the article on the Manlel Clock (Wooda"y 8uggestions? (used on Ute goblets, Wo()d"",itk No, 2,~), smith No. 24, page 8), we described a Ray Fort and Renaissance Wax (used on the fruit method of cutting glass to fit the odd shape orthe clock door, We also mentioned how Bloomfield, 10'IJi1, Bowl, II'0oclsmilh No, 21), Both products can be purchased from we got lucky berOt.. we ran out of glass. Whenever I'm faced with a task like this either Woodcraft Supply or Garrett Wade, \Vell, we spoke too soon. Soon aftru' the that.requries alot Ofwork, my rnitial reac- Their addresses are listed in the special issue was sent to the printer.Dave noticed lion is to grab the closest power tool. But catalog section in this issue. a small problem. The glass had a 6" hairthere are times when POWIll' tools simply One follow-up note ['d like tomake about line fracture running t'ight across the face won't work. Hollowing-out a chair seat is using the Renaissance wax for the fruit or the dial. one of those times, bowl: After using lhe bowl fat' a While, it's Undaunted, 1set out to try to cut the become apparent that Behlen's Salad Bowl glass again. Unfortunately, this timel ran In this case, you'll have to resort to traditional hand tools (and traditional finish would have been a better choice. III out of glass, twice, And in tbe process, 1 methods) to get the job dono, There are fact, from now on, whenever we make else ran out of patience, But I was too several hand tools that could be used; an anytbing that comes in contact \\~th food stubborn to admit, defeat. , , there had to ada, a seorp, and inshave, or even a car- (like the Canister Set on page 10), this is be a way. ver's spoon gouge. the finish we'll lise. I finally decided to try a piece of PlexiTraditionally, chair-makers used an adz glas, just to see how it would work, And to A PLANE WARNING (pronounced add's) to rough-out chair be honest, Iwas pleasantly surprised, seats. An 'adz is an oldtimsr's tool that III \Voodsmith No. ;!;;, you desoribed {I The nicest thing about using Plexiglas is looks something like a small garden hoemetltOO to ti!Jitten up 1/", Y.yoke of a hand that it can be cut on a band saw, or with a the blade (either nat Or curved) is a~ a 90· plane, U$ing II""" m.elilOd, I rel'll1l:ea.the sabre saw, just like a piece of plywood, angle to the handle, b"ass knob and used a screwdriver 10 This eliminated having to rely on Lady The chair- maker would stand on the c,'owbar one of l/te tegs forw{n-d (so it Luck when it came time to cut the arch, edges of the seat blank, and swing the adz touche~ tne '/"")111 shOll/d." of tue groove), After cutting out the arch in the Plexibetween his feet to rough out the hollow, and tne otl®' leg "{Iek (unlil it louchesIhe glas (on the first try, by the way), 1 applied However, ifthe adz fades off the mark and buck sholl.J.{I.,' alike groove). a coat of paste wax to both sides of my hits your foot, you'l) lose a pail' of shoes at As iltur"ed out, the Y-yoke lumd "unbreakable glass" to protect it from best. Rather than skipping around the plane U-(J,smade of ectst iron. A 1«1 as I ,oos scratches, Then I installed it in the door shop with a bloody fOOt,I'd rather just skip I.rgingthis )J)'Ocfl{[w'e, olie of the legs oflhe frame of the clock, this step and use an inshave or a scorp to Y'1Iok" broke off. I lhi"k .ome sort of corTo unknowing eyes, it looks exactly like rougb-eu; the seat, ,'ectiol~8Itouldlw made $0 thai tu: 011•• 18e I got lucky again. An inshave is b;tsically a, two-handled 111;n8 It 9004 piau" .tiling (his "r()<;edure. SHIFTY MITERS draw knife with a curved blade that makes a concave cut. A scorp is kind of a small Rmpn01ul B, Wallace I I"'jed (/1.6 »l,ethOOof,u sillg sa.ulpaptl· OIL inshave; it has a single handle with a UPeoria,IUino~ fllll 11~iW1'QQllI/e fence to Slap ttu pieces shaped cutting blade, Another tool that from creeping «s d«t,wiiHId ill Woodsmith could be used is a carver's spoon gouge, (Of After reading ~{t'. Wallace's letter, ( No. ~.9.The only ,/»'Ohlem I hod tha: all these, I think my first choice would be cheeked all of the planes in our shop to see the grit of the salldpap~ feU off, and a scorp.) if ally had a cast iron Y-yoke. [ did find one: .",'Olcked the tOPof my lable saw. Aftet' the basic shape of the seat is my grand rather's 90·year·old wooden I'w fowut R1lOt/z"" method. Ihut uorks roughed-out with one of th esse tools, the [ointer plane. The mere Lhollght of break- '""u f01' ?)le. J 8;".pl1/ apply dOllble-Jlu;ed bigges~ headache is trying to smooth out ing the Y-yoke, on that particular plane lape to tile mite>l.nce, Then t» prevent: tlte the ridges, Here, I'd use a curved scraper made me "c.ry nervous, stockfro1>' iHlcomi>(!} overly atLache!U of sawdust, bital sander, to sand tbe chair seat abso- dozen planes, some of them .'athe~ old), lutely smooth (to eliminate any chance of were equipped with a steel Y·yoke which Kelllwlh C. Ha"''>! splinters in the hind-quarters), can be bent without breakage. IVisc01Will.Rctpids, lVisco1lsi'l
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wooosscrn
23
B_o~cornBowl
___
HOW TO TURN POPCORN INTO SOMETHING SPECIAL Several years ago Sunday night meant one thing: watching 801tlmoa ••. with a big bowl of popcorn. 1 miss the weekly episodes of Bonanza, but the tradition of watching Sunday T. V. with a big bowl of popcorn is alive and well. The only trouble is that my plastic popcern bowl has finally begun to show its age. So [ decided to turn R. wooden replacement out (If koa (a native hardwood of Hawaii). With the price of !tol' being what it is, 1 used the stave conswuction method described on page 8 to reduce the amount of lumber needed, THE BOWL
[ wanted the popcorn bowl to be about 10" in diameter, and 4" in height (to hold 101$of popcorn). So with these dimensions in hand. r drew oin th~pl'om. 011 paper and found that 1 needed a twelve-sided cylin· del' with 2.o/.llf_\\ri(l~staves. TIn: CYLINIIER,To
make ~ twelve-sided
cylinder, the bevel on each piece is CUL~t 15'. Aftc,' the pieces are bevel-ripped. they',,,,cut to a rough length of 6" (to allow for some waste during the tutning P"Ocesss), '[,hen the eytinder 1:; assembled, and mounted on the lathe using the method described (In page 8. A'rr.ICIIJNG TIn; IlASE.Alle,· the cylinder is trued on the lathe. I reduced the thickness '111 the inside walls to %". Then the base is mounted on the lathe, and a v."
slightly, I used a square-nosedscraper t. The pop"'O"nbowl lid has a double rabbet taper the walls to 14"thickness at the rim, l'llt on the rim. This double rabbet keep. TlIt: FI.OATINGIJAS&.The (ina! step the out$ideedge otthe lid 'I." above the lim the bowl is to create R "Oo~ting" base, 'ro of the bowl, see Fig. 2. This gap \'isul1lly do thi:!. I simply used a parting teol to separates the vertical grain of the bowl undercut the remaining part of the rabbet from the horizental grain on the lid, onthebase. ('rhisislheshaded area in Fij!. After tlje double rabbet is cut 011 the rim. :).) The" the bottom corner of the cylinde)' I used a round-nosed scraper to form the waU is chamfered, and the bowl is finish neck aroun8 the knob. sanded and removed from the lathe. Then Icut a slight hollow on top of the knob, and a genlle curve on the main body THE liD ofth.lid, Finally the lid is fini.hed sanded. There's really only one major differellcc: and separated f1'01lI the faceplate. between the Ii(l for this popcorn bowl and To finish Ihe popcorn bowl, I used three the lids used for tile canisters (pag<: 10), eeats Behlen's Salad Bowl Finish.
0"
,,,jc)e. rubbet is cut so th-e remalning'
shoulder fit.~the inside of the cylinrie,', see Fig. 3. Finally. the base and cylinder are clampedtogethe.·u,ing the tail stock of the lalbe. (For a detailed description on turning a stave constructed bowl. see page 10.) THE INSIDE w.~J,I.S. For this bowl, I wanted to taper the inside walls just fIGU~E 1
"GURE 2
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WOOOSMITH
