Sew Better, Sew Faster - Supplies & Resources

Sew Better, Sew Faster: Garment Industry Secrets

 with

Janet Pray What You'll Need

Supplies & Resources SUPPLIES • •

• • • • •

Pattern: Islander Sewing Systems Jacket Express #218 (included with class) 3–3¾ yards (2.75-3 (2.75-3 m) 45"-wide (114 cm-wide) fabric OR 2½–3¼ yards (2.25-3 m) 60"-wide (152 cmwide) fabric Suitable fabrics: lightweight denim, linen or cotton twill fabrics. ¾–1 yard (0.7-1 m) light- to medium-weight fusible interfacing All-purpose thread to match jacket fabric All-purpose thread to match wrong side of jacket fabric, if different from right side Topstitching thread to contrast or match jacket fabric (5 small spools or one large spool) Eight ¾" (19 mm) buttons or snaps FABRIC NOTES

TOOLS • • • • • •

Sewing machine Steam iron Topstitching needle, size 12, 14, or 16 depending on your fabric Fabric shears and/or rotary cutter and mat Scissors or snips for cutting threads Marking tools such as chalk wheel or Chakoner, erasable Pilot FriXion marker or water-soluble pen

•

Quilting cotton is not recommended. RESOURCES

OPTIONAL TOOLS • • •

Janet demonstrates with 8 oz. denim and 30-weight topstitching thread but recommends that students start with a lighter fabric. Some fabrics mentioned in the class include Echino cotton-linen blends and Kokka cottons, jacketweight cotton from Moda, and ne-wale corduroy.

Serger Press Pressing supplies: clapper, point presser, point turner and seam stick Sewing machine accessories: Straight-stitch throat plate, ¼” foot, topstitch foot

SEAM ALLOWANC ALLOWANCES ES

Seam allowances in this pattern range from ¼" (6mm) to 3/8" (9mm). Consult the video lesson for each piece or the pattern booklet for specic seam allowances for each piece.

• • • • • • • •

Janet Pray’s website: islandersewing.com Janet’s sewing machine, Jane by Baby Lock, and serger, Imagine by Baby Lock: babylock.com ElnaPress 720: elnapress.com/en Interfacing: fashionsewingsupply.com Topstitching thread t hread (Gütermann): wawak.com Wooden pressing tools: angelawolfpatterns.com Sewing machine cabinets: mykoalastudio.com Fabrics: • SuperBuzzy: superbuzzy.com • Moda: unitednotions.com

CONTINUED » © 2013 Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

C raftsy.com  raftsy.com 

1

Garment Industry Secrets

 with  Janet Pray

What You’ll Need Glossary

TECHNIQUES

Burrito The “burrito” is a term coined by Margaret Islander that describes a sewing industry technique used to clean-nish the ends of the cuff. The name “burrito” was chosen to help the student remember the procedure because “a burrito must have a lling or it is  just a tortilla.” Crimping A method of easing that allows excess fabric to be stitched to a shorter length without puckering. When performed correctly, it requires no pins, pre-pressing or basting. Topstitching Final stitching applied to the outside of the garment, used for looks and strength. This is a very visible technique and when done accurately will lend a very professional look. (Sloppy topstitching looks very unprofessional.) Topstitching a Needle Width Away Topstitching located just a needle’s width away from the edge. A very professional looking nish.

© 2013 Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

C raftsy.com 

2