description of construction of sweater knits. you will get all the details here.Full description
instruction
Icelandic knitting patterns
aaaaFull description
Manual de Manutenção dos Redutores SEWDescrição completa
Full description
harry potterFull description
Clothes knits patterns for Barbie and Ken dolls.
Full description
Special issue - Fall 2012 - Knit 31 inspired projects
Clothes knits patterns for Barbie and Ken dolls.
Spec
Science Grade 1-3 Cut and PastDescripción completa
For chidren Grade 1-3Full description
Science Grade 1-3 Cut and PastFull description
Descripción completa
High strength steel
economics and finance
Ann Taylor Ann Taylor Loft Ann Taylor Factory Stores Construction Guidelines CUT & SEW KNITS
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines CUT & SEW KNITS INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts. NOTE:
See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment ( unless confirmed otherwise prior to Fit Approval. Confirmation must be documented in Spec Pkg.) Sleeve is to match front at pi tch point. Top Collar –Center Back to match body on vertical pattern. Front Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in S pec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. One-way fabrics are to be cut in same direction unless otherwise specified to be “A”/”B” marker. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and documented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package. Circular Knits: Position fabric crease lines on back body or back sleeve.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS – CUT & SEW KNITS:
Interfacing:
Quality and weight must be compatible with fabric. Interfacings are to be tested for all fabrications to verify compatibility and performance. Stitches per Inch (SPI): Shell: 10-12 SPI Topstitching: 10-12 (unless special thread & SPI required per Spec Pkg.)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD SEAMS & SEAM ALLOWANCES - CUT & SEW KNITS: Join Seams
A2-1c Bodice Waist Dart Single Point (Front / Back)
1/2" Tail
Chainstitch
Press Dart toward Center Frt
Press Dart toward Center Frt
Press Dart toward Center Frt
1/2" Tail
A2-3b Bodice Bust Dart from Side / Panel seam
A2-3c Bodice Bust Dart from Empire Seam
A2-4 French Dart
A2-0a Dart Seam w/ Lockstitch Single Point
Back Tack
*Follow Dart Guide on pattern Press Dart toward Hem
Press Dart toward Center Frt Press Dart toward Hem
1/2" Tail
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines NECK FINISHES: Neck Finished w/ Binding K3-1a Neck Finished w/ Binding
K3-1b Neck Finished w/ Binding Back Neck
* Binding Set w/ Chainstitch * See Spec Pkg for "Binding Type"
Binding Set w/ Chainstitch
* Closing Seam - Left Shoulder * Stitch tack seam allowance toward back
Outside of Garment Wearer's Left Front
Set-In Neck Trim – Left Back Join Seam K3-2a Set-in Neck Trim w/ Left Back Join Seam
K3-2b Set-in Neck Trim w/ Left Back Join Seam Back
K3-2c Set-in Neck Trim Back Join Seam Detail Inside of Garment
K3-2d Set-in Neck Trim Back Join Seam Detail Raw Edge Fold to one side Imaginary Fold Line
* Tri m Join seam 3/4" back from Wearer's Left Shoulder seam
* Topstitch w/ Chainstitch unless otherwise in Spec Pkg.
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Fold to side (opposite from other end) Raw Edge
Set-In Neck Trim – Center Back Join Seam K3-3a Set-in Neck Trim w/ Center Back Join Seam
K3-3b Set-in Neck Trim w/ Center Back Join Seam Back
K3-3c Set-in Neck Trim Center Back Join Seam Detail
K3-3d Set-in Neck Trim Center Back Join Seam Detail
Inside of Garment Raw Edge
* Topstitch w/ Chainstitch unless otherwise in Spec Pkg.
Fold to one side
* Trim Join seam at Center Back Neck
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Fold to side (opposite from other end) Raw Edge
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines NECK FINISHES (continued): Set-In Trim / Border with Facing K3-4a Set-In Trim / Border w/ Facing
K3-4b Set-In Trim / Border w/ Facing
Backstitch
Inside of Garment Back
Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Neck Edge Shoulder Seam
Front Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
“V” Neck with Set-In Trim – Mitered Center Front K3-5a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front
K3-5b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front
K3-5c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Mitered Center Front
Outside of Garment
* Mitered Seam at Center Front "V"
* Mitered Seam at Center Front "V"
Inside of Garment Outside of Garment
* Mitered Seam at Center Front "V" * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Topstitch: Chainstitch (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
“V” Neck with Set-In Trim – Stitch-Tack at Center Front K3-6a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Stitch-tack at Center Front
K3-6b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Stitch-tack at Center Front
K3-6c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Stitch-tack at Center Front
Outside of Garment
* Stitch-tack at Center Front "V"
* Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Outside of Garment
Topstitch: Chainstitch (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Stitch-tack at Center Front "V"
Inside of Garment
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines NECK FINISHES (continued): Low “V” Neck – Trim Overlapped at Center Front K3-7a Low V-Neck w/Trim Overlapped at Center Front Outside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
K3-7b Low V-Neck w/Trim Overlapped at Center Front
Outside of Garment
K3-7c Low V-Neck w/Trim Overlapped at Center Front Inside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Overlap at Center Front * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
High “V” Neck – Trim Overlapped at Center Front K3-7d High V-Neck w/ Trim Overlapped at Center Front Outside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
K3-7e High V-Neck w/ Trim Overlapped at Center Front
K3-7f High V-Neck w/ Trim Overlapped at Center Front
Outside of Garment
Inside of Garment
* Overlap at Center Front * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Overlap at Center Front * Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
“V” Neck with Set-In Trim & Elasticized Center Front K3-8a "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Elasticized Shirring at Center Front
K3-8b "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Elasticized Shirring at Center Front Outside of Garment
Outside of Garment * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V"
Inside of Garment * Stitch-tack at Center Front "V"
Topstitch: Chainstitch (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
Elasticized Shirring
K3-8c "V" Neck w/ Set-In Trim Elasticized Shirring at Center Front
Seam: 4-Thread Overedge (Unless otherwise per Spec Pkg)
* Stitch-tack at Center Front "V" * Topstitch: Chainstitch (unless otherwise per Spec Pkg) Elastic Tape Note: Distribute Shirring evenly
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines NECK FINISHES (continued): Keyhole at CF w/ Drawstring through Casing K3-11 Keyhole at CF Neck w/ Drawstring through Casing
Lockstitch to form Casing
3-Thread Overedge
Keyhole at CF w/ Binding Trim & Tie K3-12 Keyhole at CF Neck w/ Binding
Binding Trim w/Edgestitch
Self Fabric Binding w/ Edgestitch
* Drawstring in Casing * See Spec Pkg for Drawstring quality
Tie continuous from binding
Lace Neck Trim Appliquéd to Shell
K3-13b Lace Trim at Neck
K3-13a Lace Trim at Neck Outside View
Inside View
Lace Trim
Stitch through along shell neckline finished edge.
Edgestitch
Stitch through along shell finished neck edge
Edgestitch
Edgestitch along Lace Trim Edge
Inside of Lace Trim Miter at Center Front
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines Notch Collar with Facing
K3-9a Notch Collar with Facing
K3-9b Notch Collar with Facing
Clean Finish at Back Neck * Facing shaped to Shoulder * Tack at Shoulder
Inside of Garment
* Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.
Outside of Garment
Facing w/ Overedge Finish
* Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.
Notch Collar with Partial Placket & Facing
K3-10a Notch Collar - Partial Placket Clean Finish at Back Neck
Outside of Garment
* Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg.
K3-10b Notch Collar - Partial Placket Inside of Garment
* Facing shaped to Shoulder * Tack at Shoulder
* Backstitch if no Topstitching. See Spec Pkg. Facing w/ Overedge Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines COLLAR OPTIONS: NOTE:
Collar sketches are for construction only, not for Collar shape.
2-Piece Collar K3-14a 2-Piece Convertible Collar - No Topstitch
K3-14b 2-Piece Convertible Collar - with Topstitch
Top Collar
Top Collar
* See spec pkg for Topstitch Detail
Backstitch
Under Collar
Topstitch (See Spec Pkg)
Under Collar
Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand DT2-2a Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand - No Topstitch Top Collar
DT2-2b Shirt Collar w/ Full Stand - Topstitched Top Collar
* See spec pkg for Topstitch Detail
Edgestitch @ Stand Seam
Under Collar Backstitch
Under Collar
Clean Finish @ Neck
Edgestitch @ Stand Seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines COLLAR OPTIONS (continued): NOTE:
Collar sketches are for construction only, not for Collar shape.
Stand Collar
DT2-3a Stand Collar - No Topstitch
DT2-3b Stand Collar - Topstitched
Outside of Collar
Outside of Collar
Neck seam
Inside of Collar
Backstitch
See Spec Pkg for Topstitch Detail
Neck seam
Inside of Collar
Neck seam
Neck seam
Collar w/ Banana Stand DT2-5a Collar w/ Banana Stand - No Topstitch
DT2-5b Collar w/ Banana Stand - Topstitched
Outside of Top Collar
Outside of Top Collar
Open Press w/ Edgestitch
Open Press w/ Edgestitch
Outside of Under Collar
Back Stitch to 1" from Collar Point
* See Spec Pkg for Topstitch Detail
Outside of Under Collar
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES: A8-1 Top Applied Placket
Outside View Wearer's Right
A8-2b Attached Placket w/Shaped Front Facing
A8-2a 1-Piece Attached Placket
Outside View (same construction for Right & Left Front Edge)
Outside View Wearer's Left
Inside View Weaerer's Right
Outside View
Inside View
(same construction for Right & Left Front Edge)
(same construction for Right & Left Front Edge)
*Join Seam w/Crackstitch or Topstitch (see Spec Pkg) Bottom of Placket
Inside View (same construction for Right & Left Front Edge)
*Backstitch (NOTE: No Backstitch if Placket Edge is Topstitched)
Interlining
See Spec Pkg for Facing Edge Finish Wearer's Right
Wearer's Left
A8-3 Mock Placket
A8-4b Partial Placket w/ Shaped Facing
A8-4a 1-Piece Straight Partial Placket
Raw Edge Enclosed in Fold Outside View Wearer's Right Inside View Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Right
Inside View Wearer's Right See Spec Pkg for: * Placket Length * Button/Buttonholes * Bottom of Placket Detail
Outside View (same Right & Left)
Inside View (same Right & Left)
Outside View Wearer's Left
*Join Seam w/Crackstitch or Topstitch (see Spec Pkg)
*Backstitch (Note: No Backstitch if Placket edge is Topstitched)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FRONT PLACKET CLOSURES (continued): A8-8 Hidden Placket-Attached; set w/ Crackstitch
A8-8 Hidden Placket-Attached; Crackstitch Interior Construction (before Facing set to Front)
Outer Finished View Finished Wearer's Right Facing
Finished Outside View Wearer's Right
Attached Placket Seam w/ Crackstitch
Wearer's Right Front
Interior Tack
Wearer's Right Facing
Facing
Button Separator/ Inner Tack between Buttonholes
Lining
Button Separator / Inner Tack
Attach Inner Layers (see Spec Pkg): A) Attached Button Separator or B) Interior tack (Note: Machine or Hand Tacked)
Inside View Crackstitch
Lining or Fabric layer
*Note: Placket may be topstitched, see spec pkg.
A8-6 Hidden Placket w/ Facing; Topstitched
A8-10 Hidden Partial Placket
Outer Finished View
Finished Wearer's Right
Continuous Fold
Finished Wearer's Right Facing
Outside View Wearer's Right
Facing
Topstitch Button Separator Inner Tack
See Spec Pkg for Detail
Raw Edge
Inside View Wearer's Right
Outside View Wearer's Left
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines KEYHOLE CLOSURES: Keyhole Lined to Edge
Keyhole w/ Continuous Lapped Placket
DT6-b Key Hole Closure
DT6-a Key Hole Closure - Lined to Edge Lined to Edge
Continuous Lapped Placket
*See Spec Pkg for Neck Closure
Backstitch
Full Clean Finish Binding over raw edge
Mitered Stitch-tack Center Back Seam Keyhole Clean Finish w/ Facing
Facing Edge Straight to Neck Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Outside View "Wearer's Right" Front
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Outside View "Wearer's Right" Front
Bendback w/ Edgestitch
Backstitch
3-Thread Overedge Finish
Backstitch
3-Thread Overedge Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FACING OPTIONS (continued): Bendback Facings K5-3b Single Bendback - Shaped Facing w/ Bendback Finish
K5-3a Single Bendback - Shaped Facing w/ Overedge Finish
Facing Shaped to Shoulder
Facing Shaped to Shoulder
Outside View "Wearer's Right" Front
Outside View "Wearer's Right" Front
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
3-Thread Overedge Finish
Bendback Edge
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Bendback w/ Edgestitch
Bendback Edge
3-Thread Overedge Finish
K5-3c Single Bendback - Straight Facing w/ Overedge Finish
K5-3d Single Bendback - Straight Facing w/ Bendback Finish Facing Edge Straight to Neck
Facing Edge Straight to Neck
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Outside View "Wearer's Right" Front
Inside View "Wearer's Right" Front Facing
Outside View "Wearer's Right" Front
Bendback w/ Edgestitch Bendback Edge
3-Thread Overedge Finish
Bendback Edge
3-Thread Overedge Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FACING OPTIONS (continued): Attached Facing w/ Notch Collar K5-2a Attached Facing - Notch Collar; Overedge Finish
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SLIT OPTIONS (continued): Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner - Blindstitched A14-8a Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner; Blindstitched - No Tack
Outside Garment
Inside Garment
m a e S
Outside Garment m a e S
Stitch-tack
Overedge
Blind Stitch
A14-8c Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner; Blindstitched - Bartack at Top of Slit
A14-8b Slit-Bendback Facing w/ Mitered Corner; Blindstitched ; Stitch-tack at Top of Slit