sew essentials
measur e up
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MAKING BEAUTIFUL CLOTHES TO FLATTER YOUR FORM STARTS WITH TAKING THE RIGHT MEASUREMENTS
Accurate body measurements are the foundation to successful dressmaking. Use these easy-to-follow steps to determine the correct pattern size to use and if any alterations might be required.
supplies sew se w supplies
CHEST: With your arms by your side, measure above the bust, with the tape measure lying flat at the top of your armpits.
HEIGHT: Stand straight with your back against a wall and remove your shoes. Place the ruler on top of your head and mark. Measuring from the marked point to the ground will indicate your height.
Measuring tape Ruler
BUST: Wearing a good fitting bra, measure around the fullest part of your bust.
Wear loose fitting clothes Take off your shoes!
smart sew se w smart Think you know your size? Sewing pattern sizes will differ from ready-to-wear garments, so it is crucial to measure yourself before you start.
Sizing
WAIST: Wrap the measure around your middle to find your natural waist and take the reading at the smallest part.
HIPS: Circle the tape around your hips and let it drop to the fullest part to take the measurement.
Use this sizing chart to identify the corresponding dress size to your body. Once you have selected the size you require you are ready to start working from our pattern.
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Size
8
10
12
14
16
Bust
80cm (311/2’’)
83cm (323/4’’)
87cm (341/4’’)
92cm (361/4’’ )
97cm (381/4’’)
Waist
61cm (24’’)
64cm (251/4’’)
67cm (261/2’’)
71cm (28’’)
76cm (30’’)
Hips
85cm (331/2’’)
88cm (343/4’’)
92cm (361/4’’)
97cm (381/4’’)
102cm (401/4’’)
Back-neck to waist
40cm (153/4’’)
40.5cm (16’’)
41.5cm (161/4’’)
42cm (161/2’’)
42.5cm (163/4’’)
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sew essentials
pa tt er n symbols
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DON’T LET THE MARKINGS ON PAPER PATTERNS PUT YOU OFF – WE DEMYSTIFY THE CODES! KEY TO PATTERN SIZES:
Size 8 Size Size Size
GATHER: Work a loose straight stitch between these markers and pull to gather up.
Size
CUTTING LINES: Multi-sized patterns feature a series of different cutting lines, one for each size.
GRAIN LINES: The double pointed arrow indicating the placement of the pattern piece on the fabric. Ensure that the line of the arrow runs parallel to the lengthwise grain of the material.
NOTCHES: The symbols to help you accurately match seams. All pieces that require joining will have corresponding notches.
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS: This indicates which garment from the variations of design that the pattern piece corresponds to. It also instructs how many times you need to cut the piece from the fabric.
4 FRONT FULL SKIRT DRESS A CUT ONE IN FABRIC
FOLD LINES: This arrow indicates the placement of the pattern piece on the fold of the material. Aligning this to the fold means you will have a finished cut piece twice the size of the paper pattern without having to add in a joining seam.
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sew essentials
pa per perfection
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FIND YOUR WAY AROUND A PATTERN WITH EASE AND BUILD YOUR CONFIDENCE TO MAKE YOUR OWN GARMENTS Fold
Pattern preparation
To fold
I In addition to starting with your fabrics
Cut on the fold Cut two
Grain
Grain
laundered and pressed, it is also advisable to press your pattern pieces. You can either choose to do this before you cut the tissue (with the paper as a whole) or after the pieces have been cut out. I Unfold the tissue paper and with an iron on
Grain Selvedge
Sewing patterns have three main components, the first being the envelope – this shows you the garment, any variations that can be made, and sizing information. Secondly, there is the pattern – which is printed on thin tissue paper. Finally, there are the making up instructions. I At Sew we have secured these instructions
here within the Pull-out section, so that you can easily refer to them as you work. You can detach this section, fold it into your pattern envelope and keep it in your collection ready for the next time you want to use it! I Most commercial patterns are made with
more than one size printed on the tissue. Each size is identified by a different style of markings on the cutting line. When only one line is visible, the piece will be suitable for all sizes.
Fabric preparation I It is advisable to launder the fabric as you
would the completed item before you start cutting. This reduces the possibility of shrinkage later on. Once dry, iron the fabric on a suitable setting and place it on a large flat surface, ready for pinning. I Fabric is usually folded selvedge to selvedge
with right sides facing. The pattern pieces are then pinned to the top and cut out. If your fabric is patterned it is advisable to place the fabric right side up, so that you can lay the pieces in a pleasing manner on the printed design.
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it's coolest setting – taking care not to burn the paper – gently smooth out the creases, so that all the folds are pressed flat. I By ironing the paper you will ensure that the
pieces lie flush with the fabrics when pinned, resulting in cleaner, sharper lines when cutting. If in doubt about which heat setting to use, press a blank section of the paper first as a test.
Placing pattern pieces I The ‘To fold’ symbol means that the piece
should be placed against the folded edge of the fabric. This will create a mirrored piece when cut – perfect for bodice fronts and skirts. I The other pieces should be placed onto the
fabric with the grain arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from both ends of the arrow to the selvedge, to ensure that it is laying straight.
I Most patterns will offer a layout guide for the
placement of the pieces on to the fabric. This will ensure that you get the pieces laid out in the most efficient manner for cutting with the least wastage. Follow these simple principles to ensure that you get outstanding results every time 1 Taking the time to make careful, smooth cuts around the pattern pieces will help the pieces fit together better when you are making them up. 2 Always cut on a flat smooth surface, like a table. Ensure that the scissors you're using are sharp. Use the full blade of the scissors for the long, straight edges and work with smaller cuts around curves. 3 If you are right handed, place your left hand on the pattern piece and fabric to hold it securely. Holding the scissor blades at right angles to the fabric, begin cutting cleanly around each section. 4 When you are faced with a pattern point at which the lines for a number of sizes appear to merge, you should set the outer point of the scissor blade towards the line that you want to end on. This will create a smooth, clean cut that relates to your size.
Fabric know-how Always cut your fabric on the correct grain this will produce finished items that hang in a pleasing manner. Taking a critical look at the composition of the material will help you to ascertain which techniques to use. Identify the grains of the fabric with this guide. BIAS: The bias grain is the diagonal line running 45 degrees to the warp and the weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that follows the contours of the body. SELVEDGE: This is the non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain.
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WARP: These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric, they are stronger than weft yarns and are less likely to stretch. WEFT: These run over and under the warp yarns across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. As these yarns double back, they fix the weave of the selvedge.
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bett e pattern FEEL VIVACIOUS IN THIS TIMELESS PIECE Your FREE SEW Pattern allows you to create a fabulous dress that is guaranteed to impress! Bette is a figure flattering flirty frock, with stunning bodice and skirt that c an be worked up in a variety of different fabrics to create your own individual style. We love the stand-out-from-the-crowd stand-out-from-the-crowd effect of bold polka dot cottons – but our full skirt frock will look equally beautiful worked up in solid cottons or embroidered silks. Once you have prepared the fabric and pattern pieces for your size, you're ready to start stitching – follow these step-by-step instructions instructions to make your own vintage-style dress! Each of the pattern pieces has a 1.5cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated on the individual section. This means that once you have cut the tissue pattern pieces and pinned them to the fabric, you will cut them directly from the material – so you don't need to worry about adding additional additional borders to accommodate seams.
BETTE Dress A
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piec e b y piece As always, the latest pattern in your collection is printed on dressmaker's tissue. Once you have taken it out of the envelope and opened it you will need to identify the pieces required for each garment. Use this chart to locate the pattern pieces for the garment before cutting.
Prep & Pin 1 Once all the pattern pieces have been cut and laid onto the fabric as specified (see fabric layout guides), pin each one around the edges to secure it onto the material. 2 With dressmaking scissors cut all the pattern pieces from the fabric. Use careful clean cuts and work close to the edge of the tissue paper. 3 Once all pieces have been cut, leave the pattern pieces pinned in place until you're ready to work with them. This makes identifying each section easier.
IDENTIFYING PATTERN PIECES
2 1
1
2 BETTE Dress A
4
4 5 5
CUTTING LAYOUT 8
7
6
1 FRONT BODICE, Dress A 2 BACK BODICE, Dress A 3 FRONT FULL SKIRT, Dress A 4 BACK FULL SKIRT, Dress A 5 SIDE FULL SKIRT, Dress A
3
3
4
4
3 3
Dress A Fabric Width 150cm , you will need 2.4m BETTE Dress A
e g d e v l e S
pattern pieces
sew supplies
1 Front Bodice, cut two on fold (one becomes lining)
Printed cotton, 150cm x 2.4m
2 Back Bodice, cut two pairs (one becomes lining)
Net, 3.5m
3 Front Full Skirt, cut one on fold
Matching lining, 150cm x 50cm
4 Back Full Skirt, cut one pair
Concealed zip, 51cm
5 Side Full Skirt, cut one pair
d l o F
2 2
1
1
CUTTING LAYOUT
5 5
5 5
2 2
e g d e v l e S
e g d e v l e S
single layer open 150cm width 5
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ma king up Bette Dress A Refer to cutting layouts Pattern pieces 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 1 Layout your fabric as instructed in the cutting layouts, adhering to all fold lines. From the printed cotton place Pattern Piece 1 (Front Bodice) on the fold and cut out two (one of these will act as lining). Then cut two pairs of Pattern Piece 2 (Back Bodice), again one pair will become the lining. Place Pattern Piece 3 (Front Full Skirt) on the fold, cut one. Next cut one pair of Pattern Piece 4 (Back Full Skirt). These pieces form one front skirt piece and two back skirt pieces. With fabric laid flat, cut one pair of Pattern Piece 5 (Side Full Skirt). With tailor's chalk mark on the relevant notches to the wrong side of the fabric. 2 Fold the net in a rectangle 124cm wide, cut along the fold but leave the two layers together. Cut a 38cm x 135cm rectangle from the lining fabric, this will become the top of the net under skirt. 3 With wrong side facing and using a straight machine stitch sew the darts in the front bodice and then the back bodice pieces. Once stitched in place, press the darts towards the centre of the garment. Repeat this process to dart the lining pieces. 4 With right sides facing, align the shoulder seams of the front and back bodice pieces and pin to secure. Using a straight machine stitch join the two pieces together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Repeat this process for the lining. 5 Lay the lining on top of the bodice with the right sides of the fabrics facing. Match the necklines together, aligning the shoulder seams and the centre backs and front and pin to secure. Working with a straight machine stitch join together with a 1.5cm seam allowance. Trim away half of the seam allowance and then clip around the curve to allow the piece to lay smooth. 6 Stay stitch the neckline. This line of stitching gives the neckline a smooth finish and prevents the lining from rolling out to the right side of the garment. Fold the seam allowance towards the lining and then stitch on the right side, as close as you can to the seam line through all three layers and press. 7 Stitch the armholes; this is achieved in two sections, the front (up to the shoulder seam) and then the back. Place the bodice in front of you with the right side of the fabric towards you. Start by folding in the seam allowance of the bodice and the lining on the corner of the armhole and the front side seam; pin together. Continue working along the armhole matching and pinning the lining and the bodice together until you reach the shoulder seam. Stitch together with a straight machine stitch leaving a 1.5cm seam allowance, trim away the seam allowance and clip the curve. Pull the stitched part of the armhole to the right side again. Next repeat this process starting at the back side seam and armhole corner, stitching up towards the shoulder seam,
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The fullness of this dress is acheivable due to the skirt being made up from five panels. Here it’s boosted with an additional net underskirt.
BETTE Dress A in line with the previous stitching line. Again trim and clip around the curve before turning back to the right side. Repeat the process to the remaining armhole. 8 Join the side seams together. The bodice side seams and the lining will be treated as one long seam. With wrong sides outermost match the underarm seams together, folding the seam allowances over onto the lining side of the bodice and pin into place. With a straight machine stitch work a consecutive seam from one end of the main fabric
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to the other end of the lining, leaving a 1.5cm seam allowance. Press the seam open and press the armholes. 9 Make up the skirt. With right sides facing, align the side skirt pieces to the front skirt piece, ensuring that all the notches match up and pin into place. Work in a straight machine stitch to join the pieces together. With the right sides facing pin each of the back pieces to its corresponding side piece, ensuring all notches are aligned, and join with a straight machine stitch. Finally,
Sew magazine FREE pattern! www.sewmag.co.uk create the back seam by working a straight stitched seam up to the marker for the zip notch. 10 Work two rows of gathering stitches1cm apart, just below the top edge within the 1.5cm seam allowance, around the waistline of the skirt. A gathering stitch is the longest stitch length setting on your machine, it allows you to pull the threads through the fabric and create a gather in the material. To do this, draw up the threads, pulling an even tension on both threads, the material will begin to bunch up and create the gathering at the top of the skirt. Measure the base of the bodice, and continue gathering the top of the skirt until it is the same length as the base of the bodice. Ensure the gathers are even by working the ripples of fabric along the thread to the full width of the waistband.
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BETTE Dress A
11With the right side of the bodice and the right side of the gathered top of the skirt facing, pin the bodice and skirt together. Stitch the skirt to the bodice with a 1.5cm seam allowance using a straight machine stitch. This stitching line should appear just below the second gathering line. 12 Make up the net underskirt. Stitch a gathering stitch through the centre of the two layers of net and gather until it measures 134cm to correspond to the rectangle of lining fabric. Neaten one of the longer 134cm sides of the rectangle by either zig zag stitching along the edge or overlocking. Fold the lining in half, matching the two shorter edges and stitch the two edges together from the neatened edge upwards, leaving 20cm open at the top of the seam. 13 Place the gathered area, through the centre of the net, along the neatened edge of the lining, pin and then attach the net to the lining by stitching on top of the gathered line of stitching. Pleat the top of the lining to the same measurement as the waist area of the full skirt. Position and pin the pleated edge along the inside of the waistline and use a straight stitch along the top of the gathered waistline of the skirt to join the two pieces. 14 Insert the zip. Stitch the concealed zip into the back opening using a zipper foot or a concealed zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the back opening. Open out the seam allowance and with the right side of the fabric facing place the opened zip face down matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance. Pin in place. If you are using a concealed zipper foot then place the teeth of the zip into the groove and as you stitch the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will be placed right alongside the teeth. If you are stitching with a normal zipper foot you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips; stitch to the top of the back seam. It is impossible to stitch to the end of a concealed zip so leave approximately 5cm of the zip base un-stitched. Back stitch and then stitch the other side of the zip in place. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side at the top of the back seam and pull up to close. 15 Fold the seam allowances in along the edges of the bodice lining and lay over the seam allowances of the bodice on the inside around the waist, matching all the seams and darts together; pin and then hand slip stitch along the bodice waist seam and along the sides of the zip. 16 Overlock or zig zag the base of the hem working around the entire length of the full skirt. Turn 5mm in towards the wrong side and then machine edge stitch all the way around the skirt hem to finish.
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m e h m c 1
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k o o b e c a F n o e n i z a g a m w e S h c r a e S
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2 1
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e c n a w o l l a m a e s m c 5 . 1
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p o t s s o r c a r e h t a G
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8 2 FRONT FULL SKIRT Dress A Cut one on fold 1.5cm seam allowance
9 2
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1 3 3
F o l d
