Session 4
Manufacturing Process
Resources
People
Fabric storage
Cutting manager
Equipments storage
Cutting master
Tables
Assistants ‐ spreaders
COSTS The cutting room has a greater effect on excessive manufacturing costs than any other department concerned with the actual production production of garments. of garments.
COSTS Internal costs – those incurred in the cutting
room
itself
(spreading,
cutting,
bundling,
ticketing) External
costs – those incurred by other
departments as a result of the malfunctions of the cutting room
Internal costs • Labour : Effective utilisation • Material : 50% to 70% of the of the cost price of most of the of the mass produced clothing and largest cost component of a of a garment • Efficiency
The factors influencing materials utilization
Pattern accuracy
Marker waste
Spreading waste
External costs Defects Matching Accuracy in sewing Quality
Cuttin utting g room r oom flow proc proce ess
Cutting room flow process
Planning Spreading Cutting Preparation for sewing
Cutting room flow process Spreads
Planning
Markers Production Manual
Spreading
Machine Machine
Cutting
Die Press Computer
Preparation for sewing
Ticketing
Bundles
Cut order planning It translates customer orders into cutting orders minimize total production costs meet deadlines
of labor, labor, equipment, seek most effective use of fabric and space
Responsibilities of Cut of Cut Order Planning Examining incoming orders and piece goods width
and availability Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning
procedures for marker making Determining whether file markers are available or
new ones are needed
Responsibilities of Cut of Cut Order Planning Developing specifications for optimum marker
making and fabric utilization of spreading spreading and Determine most effective use of cutting equipment and personnel Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and
cutting
Most common considerations 1) Number of of sizes sizes in order 2) Number of of colors colors in order 3) Max/min number of of sizes sizes allowed in marker 4) Maximum spread length 5) Maximum ply height 6) Percentage of of overcut overcut or undercut units 7) Fabric cost per yard 8) Usable cloth width 9) Width variation 10) Common lines among pattern pieces 11) Costs of of marking marking markers, spreading, cutting, bundling 12) Fabric roll change time
Results of Cut Order Planning
Cutting Orders Leads to
Marker planning
Lay planning
Marker Planning Planning – – Modes & Methods
Marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of
sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization
Lay is a stack of fabric of fabric plies that have been prepared for
cutting
Lay planning of managing cutting room labor and table is the basis of managing space
Marker Making Marker is a diagram of of a a precise arrangement of pattern of pattern
pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.
Marker Making of determining the most efficient is the process of determining layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
Marker Ch. 13 of of Glock Glock & Kunj Ch. 1 of of Carr Carr & Lantham
What is a marker making? • Marker plan‐The cutting template representing all of the of the individual components of a of a garment laid together in such a way that they fit within the confines of the of the fabric width as closely and efficiently as possible, in order to minimize waste. • Marker utilization‐drawing the marker plan directly on the fabric or on paper. The provision should be made to use the marker many times. Paper marker would be destroyed after one cutting.
Use and importance of a of a marker. • Reduction of fabric of fabric wastage. • Directional properties of the of the fabric like thread directions, pattern direction, grain of nap of nap or pile. Matching of stripes of stripes , checks and designs. – Nonwovens fabric for which neither the orientation nor the direction is important. – Cretonne for which the orientation is important but the templates may be laid in either direction e.g. lining and laminated fabrics. – Corduroy fabric in which orientation and direction are both imporatant e.g. pile fabrics, fabric with directional pattern or pile , knitted fabric.
Pattern matching of pattern matching. • Quality depend on accuracy of pattern Checks and stripes have high consumption and take much time. The coloring the repeat size and prominence of pattern of pattern as degree of matching of matching required determine cost and difficulty in making the lay plan. • During spreading, it is necessary to match the pattern exactly at each end of he of he lay and in every ply. • Cutting may be carried out wit preliminary rough cut and than more precise cutting after matching the pattern • In this lay plan purpose is to achieve the required matching so cutting wastage can not be minimized.
Pattern matching •
Features of accurate of accurate pattern matching:‐ – Symmetry‐the patterns must be symmetrical about the central axis. Front panel, collars and backs. – Lengthwise continuity‐the pattern must not be interrupted or displaces at the horizontal seams . Pockets. – Horizontal continuity‐ the pattern must not be interrupted or displaced at vertical seams or across adjacent parts. Arms and front panel. – Overall continuity‐ the form and the repeat of the of the pattern must be maintained across all seams , facing, trimmings, patchesetc. Patch pockets, flaps, darts, and facing.
The requirement of marker of marker planning • The nature of the of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment – Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the of the fabric – Symmetry and asymmetry – The design characteristic of the of the finished garment
• The requirement of quality of quality in cutting – Freedom of knife of knife movement – Pattern count for a complete garment – Correct labeling of a of a cut garment parts
• The requirement of production of production planning – Length of marker of marker and efficiency
Efficiency of the of the marker plan • Since the reduction of fabric of fabric cost is important so the efficiency of marker of marker is important. • Formula • Area of patterns of patterns in the marker plan X100% Total area of the of the marker plan
Making a marker • Manual method‐ – Simplest method – All the templates are arranged manually – The outlines are then traced on fabric or paper of the templates is – The detailed arrangement of the decided by the experience and know hoe or by following a small–scale printed diagram.
Computerized systems •
Computerized systems – After grading the computer can be used to produce the lay plan and the cutting marker. – User friendly system allows the recall and arrangement of the of the patterns on the monitor screen. – Individual pieces can be moved around the screen to produce an optimized layout. – The more sophisticated programs will make the lay automatically according to predetermined criteria. – The advanced systems will calculate material utilization and cutting waste and make lay plan accordingly. – The finished lay plan is store din computer. It can be recalled and drawn out as a miniature plan at any time. When required the cutting marker can be drawn at a plotter in full scale. – With most modern technology , it is not necessary to make a physical cutting marker. The cutting instructions are send online to a fully automatic cutting and spreading machine.
Types of marker of marker (Single size lay) 1. Half garment Half garment lay‐ include only half garment half garment pieces and are cut on tubular or folded fabric. 2. Whole garment lay‐all the garment pieces, left and right sides, are included in the lay. Used on open width fabric. 3. Single size lay‐ the lay include all of the of the pieces for a single size. Restricting the lay to a single size makes order planning and laying up the fabric easier, but the disadvantage is higher material consumption, compared to multi‐size lays.
Types of marker of marker (Multi‐size lay) 4. Sectional lay‐ the lay is at least two distinct rectangular sections. Each section contains all the parts for a single size. Adjacent sections may be the same or a different size. 5. Interlocking lay‐two or more sections, one after the other, usually different sizes, but the sections are not confined to strict rectangular areas; the pieces for the different sections may merge at the borders. 6. Mixed multi‐size lay‐ in this case there are no distinct sections , the pieces for the two or more different garments sizes are intermingled. This is the arrangement which normally gives the best material utilisation.
Marker Making
Manually produced
Computerized marker making (CAD)
Sectional Marker & Stepped Lay
Markers are of two of two types: a.Blocks or Sections b.Continuous b. Continuous
Dimensions of marker of marker Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of
the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting
a. Sectioned or Blocked Marker
A STEPPED SPREAD plies of varied of varied length, spread at different heights used to adjust the quantity of piece of piece goods to the number of garments of garments
to be cut from each section of the of the marker Sections may be joined be joined to form multi‐size marker Pattern parts of one of one size in close proximity Advantageous when there is end‐to‐end shade variations
b. Continuous Marker
Contain all pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of of the the pieces rather
than by garment size Better utilization because more flexibility in grouping and
manoeuvring large pieces and small pieces
Types of Markers of Markers Open marker – Marker made with full pattern pieces
Closed Marker – Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the of the tube (tubular knit)
Closed Marker tubular fabric symmetric garment/pattern part
pattern parts are folded in folded in half in half in their length their length the pattern parts half ‐patterns are placed where the pattern fold is
superimposed over the fabric’s folded edge when this pattern is cut, the result is a full body
part
Closed Marker
Marker Modes
Marker Modes Is determined by the symmetry and directionality of fabric of fabric Nap either way (N/E/W) Nap one way (N/O/W) Nap up and down (N/U/D)
The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is directional.
N/E/W –with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only consideration for grain line
N/O/W – all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction, e.g. horse print
N/U/D – all pattern pieces of one of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed in opposite direction. eg. corduroy
Requirements of of Marker Marker Planning of the fabric and the desired result in the 1. Nature of the finished garment
– Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric (pocketing fabric)
– Symmetry and asymmetry (velvet, cord) – The design characteristic of the of the finished garment (mitering, print placement, etc.)
2. The requirements of cutting of cutting quality 3. The requirements of production of production planning
Plotting The process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on paper so they can be reviewed or cut. Patterns/graded nests. Bottleneck ‐ when lot of of copies copies required
Manual marker Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk. Time consuming . Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line,
poor line definition, omission of of pcs.) pcs.) Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.
Computerised marker Accurate Shortest response time. Direct or digitized. Manipulate images to determine best utilization.
No overlapping/no omissions Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are
entered into the computer.
Computerised marker
Can be printed/recalled/modified. Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to
determine fabric requirement. A 50‐pc marker takes less than 1 minute!!!
Miniature marker
Marker Efficiency
Marker Efficiency Area of patterns of patterns in the marker plan X 100% Total area of the of the marker plan It is determined for fabric utilization Minimum waste
Marker Efficiency Factors affecting marker efficiency Fabric characteristics
of Pattern pieces Shape of Pattern Grain requirements
Marker Efficiency Fabric characteristics Lengthwise directionality Crosswise symmetry Need for matching the fabric design.
of design design repeat. Length of Fabric width.
Marker Efficiency Shapes of pattern of pattern pieces Markers containing large and small pcs.
of pattern pattern pcs. The shape of Large pcs – less flexibility.
Marker Efficiency Shapes of pattern of pattern pieces Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency: split pattern pieces and create a seam reduce seam allowances and/or hem width adjust and modify grain‐line rounding or slanting corners
Marker Efficiency Shapes of pattern of pattern pieces Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency: Adjusting pattern dimensions w/o noticeable
change to fit & style Adjusting grain lines for hidden garment parts Modifying grain lines specified by the designer
Spreading – Spreading – Modes & Methods
Spreading – Spreading – Modes & Methods Spreading processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading
table
cutting
table
or
specially
designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
Spread or lay total amount of fabric of fabric prepared for a single marker
Spreading mode Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting
Direction of of the the fabric: it may be positioned in two ways face‐to‐face
(F/F) or with all plies facing‐one‐way (F/O/W) Direction of of the the Fabric Nap: it may be positioned nap‐one‐way (N/O/W) or
nap‐up‐down
Spreading modes F/O/W N/O/W F/F N/O/W F/F N/U/D F/O/W N/U/D
Requirements of Spreading of Spreading process of cloth cloth pieces Shade sorting of Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
of plies plies Alignment of Correct ply tension Elimination of of fabric fabric faults
of static static electricity Elimination of Avoidance of of distortion distortion in the spread
of fusion fusion of of plies plies during cutting Avoidance of
Setup for spreading Verifying cutting orders Positioning materials Preparing cutting tables Preparing machines Loading machine
Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of the time required for the entire spreading operation
Methods of spreading of spreading Spreading by hand Spreading using a travelling
machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)
