Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SWEATER KNITS INTRODUCTION:
The Ann Taylor Global Sourcing Construction Guidelines represent the base standards for garment construction methods, terminology and components. These guidelines provide a common approach to achieve consistent construction and superlative quality for all AnnTaylor , Loft and Ann Taylor Factory Stores apparel products. The guidelines are a resource to establish requirements for styling, garment construction and component parts. NOTE:
See Garment Specification Package for style specific construction and components.
Plaid is to match around garment. Horizontal stripes are to match around garment. Pockets & Flaps to match vertical and horizontal pattern (unless otherwise specified in Spec Package). Left and right of garments are to have balanced placement. Style specific plaid & stripe placement requirements are to be reviewed and d ocumented on Development Spec Package. NOTE: Placement is to be confirmed prior to fit approval and documented in Production Spec Package. All knitting width limitations are to be advised and confirmed prior to Fit Approval.
STANDARD GENERAL DETAILS FOR SWEATERS:
Linking Yarn: Self yarn or dyed-to-match yarn. Fashioned Seams (unless otherwise indicated): • Armhole • Side Seams • Sleeve Cap • Underarm • Cardigan Front Edge • Shoulder Neckline to be clean finished (Full-fashioned or linked trim). Knit Trims: • Made of self yarn unless otherwise specified in Spec Pkg. • Linked to body unless otherwise specified. Floats: Floats are to be knitted in a vertical position to avoid possible pulling or breaking, when feasible.
STITCH TENSION & HANDFEEL:
Count Stitches per Inch. Stitch Tension approved per Spec Pkg. Handfeel approved per Spec Pkg.
Handfeel must be consistent within a specific color range.
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Handfeel may differ from light to dark.
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Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SEAMING FOR SWEATERS: LINKED SEAMS:
ST-101 Basting/Single thread Chainstitch
Stitches per Inch (SPI) base on yarn type, stitch type and tension. Fashioned seams are to be linked unless otherwise indicated. Shoulder ♦ Side Seam ♦ ♦ Under arm Armhole ♦ ♦ Neckline Seam / Trim Setting Front & Sleeve Hem Edge Trim (style specific) ♦
SHOULDER CUT & SEW CONSTRUCTION:
Stitches per Inch (SPI) base on yarn type, stitch type and tension.
Shoulder Seam: ♦ Set Stay Tape to Front Shoulder w/ Chainstitch. ♦ Quality as per Spec Pkg. ♦ Length of Stay Tape must accommodate Shoulder Width spec. Shoulder seams must not draw in or dimple. ♦ Clean finish raw edge w/ 3-Thread Overedge.
Topside
ST-504
3-Thread Overedge
Topside
♦
Link seam w/ Chainstitch (see above sketch).
Underside
Underside
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SIDE SEAM OPTIONS: NOTE:
Seam can be with or without visible “Fashion” marks. See Spec Pkg.
Shaped Chest to Sweep
Shaped Chest to Waist, Straight from Waist)
S1-a Side Shaped from Chest to Sweep
S1-b Side Shaped from Chest to Waist; Straight to Sweep
Back View
Front View
A r m h o l e
Front
A r m h o l e
A r m h o l e
See Spec Pkg S id e s e a m
m a s e e id S
l e o h m r A S1-b Side Shape; Straight from Waist
Side seam
Back
Knit Straight
Back View
Front View
l e o h m r A
Top Side View above Waist
Front
Back
Knit Straight
Knit Straight (See Spec Pkg)
See Spec Pkg
A r m h o l e
Knit Straight (See Spec Pkg)
Knit Straight
m a s e e i d S
Knit Straight
See Spec Pkg
Front
S i d e s e a m
See Spec Pkg
Waist
Back Knit Straight
Waist
See Spec Pkg
Side seam Knit Straight
Knit Straight Side seam
Bottom Opening
Bottom Opening
Bottom Opening
Bottom Opening
Side Shaped at Ribs set away from Side Seam S1-c Side Shaped at Ribs (away from Side Seam) A r m h o l e
l e o h m r A
Front
Back
m a e s e d i S
Bottom Opening
S i d e s e a m
*See Spec Pkg for # of Ribs from Seam to Fashioning Stitches
Bottom Opening
Top Side View above Waist Back
Front
A r m h o l e
e l o h m r A
Sideseam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines FASHIONED ARMHOLE / SLEEVE CAP & RAGLAN SLEEVE: NOTE:
Seam can be with or without visible “Fashion” marks. See Spec Pkg.
S2-1c Fully Fashioned Armhole at base of Curve
S2-1f Fully Fashioned Sleeve at base of Armhole Curve * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam
* Shaped Armhole * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam
Knit Straight 1/2" (Unless specified otherwise in Spec Pkg)
Knit Straight for 1/2" (Unless specified otherwise in See Spec Pkg.
S2-1g Fully Fashioned Sleeve at Top of Cap
S2-1h Fully Fashioned Raglan Sleeve Neck
Knit Straight (unless specified 3" at Top of Cap otherwise in Spec Pkg)
Front
Back
Natural Shoulder
* Shape Cap * Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam
* Full Fashioned * See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" spacing from seam Knit Straight for 1/2" (Unless specified otherwise in See Spec Pkg.)
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines CAMISOLE – Full Needle Armhole Trim / Strap: S2-2 Camisole Fully Fashioned Armhole w/ Full Needle Rib Strap
S2-2 Camisole Fully Fashioned Armhole w/ Full Needle Rib Strap
Full Needle Rib Strap
Full Needle Rib Armhole / Strap
Armhole / Side Seam Pt. * See Spec Pkg for # of Ribs from seam to Fashioning stitches
FULL NEEDLE RIB FACING FINISH & JERSEY ROLL EDGE FINISH: Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing S5-6a Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing Inside of Garment
FNR Strapping / Facing w/ Zipper S5-6b Full Needle Rib Strapping / Facing w/ Zipper Inside of Garment
CF
Jersey Roll Edge Finish
S5-7 Jersey Roll Edge Finish Roll up
Roll under
CF
Full Needle
* Link to body at bottom finish * See Spec Pkg for Bottom Ht
Full Needle Rib Strapping
* Link to body at bottom finish * See Spec Pkg for Bottom Ht
Full Needle Rib Strapping
Full Needle Jersey Roll Jersey Roll
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines POCKET OPTIONS: Link all pockets: Use self yarn unless specified otherwise. Pocket Bag Terms: • Under Pocket Bag: Layer showing on inside of garment. • Top Pocket Bag: Layer between garment and Under Pocket Bag. Pocket Bag for “heavy gauge” knits: Use Jersey stitch to reduce bulk, unless specified otherwise.
Welt Pockets: S6-1a Welt - Full Needle Rib [FNR] (set Paralled to Welt seam)
S6-1b Welt - Rib (right angle to Welt seam)
See Spec Pkg for Rib Type (1 x 1, 2 x 2)
Patch Pockets: S6-2a Patch Pocket
S6-2b Patch Pocket
S6-2c Full Fashioned Patch Pocket Linked to Body
Pocket Opening Finish See Spec Pkg
Linked to Body
Pocket Opening Finish See Spec Pkg
Pocket Opening
Linked to Body
Full Fashioned
Linked to Body
Linked to Body
*See Spec Pkg for "Fashion Mark" Spacing from seam
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines LOOP CONSTRUCTION OPTIONS: Crochet Belt Loops
Hanger Loops
A12-4c Crochet Belt Loop/ Tear Drop
A12-4d Crochet Belt OpenLoop (set in Seam)
S8-4 Hanger Loop at Side Seam S8-4 Hanger Loop at Side Seam Inside of Garment
S8-3b Button Setting - "X" Stitch w/ Functional Buttonholes * "X" Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
* Parallel Stitch * Set Button w/ lockstitch machine
Thread Shank w/ Wrap
Thread Shank w/ Wrap
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines OTHER CLOSURES: Loop & Frog Closures
A10-6a Crochet Button Loop Kissing Setting
A10-6b Crochet Button Loop -
A10-7c Button Loop Closed Setting
Open Setting
A10-7b Button Loop Open Setting
A10-7a Button Loop Kissing Setting
A10-8 Folder Button Loop
A10-9 Decorative / Frog Closure
Top Side
Under side of Loop
Hook & Eye Closures
A11-1a Hook & Loop Eye
A11-1b Hook & Straight Eye
Hook & Loop Eye Setting
A11-1c Hook & Loop
Hook & Thread Loop Setting
A11-1 Setting Hook & Loop Eye
Tack under base of Hook
A11-1 Setting Hook & Thread Loop
Tack under base of Hook
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines DECORATIVE EMBELLISHMENT SETTING HANDTACKING Initial Knot
Initial Knot
Self Fabric
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
To form initial knot the thread must passes through self fabric or yarn
Circle the needle 2 times, then pull out the needle to form initial knot.
Initial knot formed must be tied to the fabric or yarn Tail extending from knot must be trimmed to ¼”.
Rosette/embellishment Initial Knot
Ending Knot
Step 5 Step 4 Affix the embellishment to the body using same needle from initial knot on self fabric.
Affix the embellishment by using 2 plies of thread with 2 passes through the fabric. Do not make the length of the passes more than ¼” long.
Step 6 After affixing the embellishment on the face side, pass the needle through to the inside for ending knot finishing i n the same manner as step 1 and step 2.
MACHINE TACKING 1. If factory has adjusted the normal buttonhole machine into 2 hole stitching for tacking purposes, only “lockstitch” buttonhole machine can be used for Ann Taylor product. 2. If factory uses single lockstitch machine for tacking purposes appropriate and sufficient back stitches must be applied to secure 3. Bar tacking machine application is limited to heavier fabric. Please advise when using this application to Technical Designer or QA for approval.
BEAD AND SEQUIN CONSTRUCTION HAND TACKING 1. Initial knot must be tied up to fabric or yarn in designated position following design layout 2. At least 2 plies of thread with 2 pass of needle must be passed through the fabric or yarn for each tack point. 3. Ending knot must be added to secure each tacked position. 4. Floating thread in between in between tacking cannot exceed ¾” on wrong side of the fabric. Floating thread longer than ¾” is not acceptable. 5. For beading spacing longer than ¾” or all over beading, beading should be tacked separately to secure beads.
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines ZIPPER SETTING: NOTE: • See
Specification package for “Right” for “Left” Zipper Pull.
Zipper illustrations are generic.
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Common Zipper Types
Sealed at Top
Sealed End
(A) Closed end Invisible type
(A) Closed end Normal type
(B) 2 - Ended Closed
Zipper Dimension Terms
Basic Zipper Construction Terms Top Stops
Bead Teeth
Tape Width
Stringer
Tape
(D) 2 Pulls 2 Open Ends
(D) 1 Pull Open End
(C) 2 Pulls - 2 Ended Closed
Opened
Closed Retainer Pin
Cord
Slider Pull
Length of Fastener
Chain
Retainer Separable Pin Bottom Stop
Tape Ends
Chain Width
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines STANDARD LINING REQUIREMENTS: Pattern Requirements • Lining pattern pieces each 1/8” larger than shell. Lining Attachment to Shell:
Hand Baste Lining to Shell along Neckline and Front Edge
Seam CB Seam
Front Lining
Back Lining
Close Lining at wearer's Left Sleeve
Pleat opening 1 1/2" down from Neck seam
Knife Pleat 3/4" deep Press to wearer's right
Taper pleat to 0" at waist CB Seam Hand Baste Hem
1/2" Curtain Pleat Hand Baste Hem
Hand Baste Hem
Ann Taylor Global Sourcing – Standard Construction Guidelines SWEATER TERMS: Floats: A portion of warp or filling yarn that extends (floats) over one or more adjacent end(s) to form knitted design. Gauge: The distance between knitting needles related to the number of wales per inch on a knitted fabric. Interlock stitch: Jacquard:
A fabric where the long & short needles are directly aligned one behind the other, thus forming a pattern where the face & back of fabric are almost identical. Fabric will have a slight 1x1 rib appearance.
A versatile knitting mechanism that allows intricate pattern works to be achieved by using a series of punched cards fed into the machine. Each of these cards is punched in a manner to achieve a portion of the total patterns design. The face and back of the fabric will appear different depending on the pattern selected.
Jersey stitch: A circular knit or flat knit fabric made with a plain stitch which knitting loops intermesh in only one direction. As a result the appearance of the face of the fabric is di fferent than the back.
Rib:
A double knit fabric where the vertical rows of stitches intermesh alternately on the face and back of the fabric. Odd vertical rows on one side of the fabric intermesh with the even rows on the other side of fabric.
Tension:
A term used to determine the density of a stitch. Or how compact the rows of knitting are in a garment either relaxed or stretched to maximum width. To verify knitting tension, please refer to “minimum construction” section of this manual.
