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Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume II: LAG Play Free $50 Copyright © 2010 by Jeff Hwang Published by Dimat Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the author. Cover Illustration: El Gonso Book Design and Graphics: Andrew and Eva Kuczynski ISBN 978-09846194-05 eBook created by www.ebookconversion.com
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Table of Contents
Introduction Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Part I: Continuation Bet (C-Bet) Frequency • C-Betting: Applying Variable-Ratio Reinforcement • Sample Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Schedules • C-Betting in Position: Practice Situations Part II: The LAG Approach • Opening Fire on the Blinds • Playing Out of Position: The Impact of Stack Sizes • Attacking the Limper • Facing a Raise in Position: 3-Betting vs. Small Ball • Playing from the Blinds • LAG Play: Post-Flop Play • Controlling the Turn-River: The Check-Back Range and The Float • Playing Out of Position After the Flop • C-Betting Situations: Out of Position Special Insert: Playing In Deep-Stack Ante Games Hand Walkthroughs Part III: Opening Fire on the Blinds Part IV: Attacking the Limper Part V: Playing Out of Position Part VI: 3-Betting in Position vs. Small Ball Part VII: Blind Defense Closing Thoughts Acknowledgements About the Author Glossary
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To Billy Talent, the greatest rock band America has never heard of; and to everyone who has made it this far with me.
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Introduction
The basic philosophy is this: Defend the button, attack the blinds, and 3-bet at your discretion. In Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume I: Small Ball and Shorthanded Play (APLO Vol. I), we talked in depth about defending the button (Small Ball), or flat-calling in position against a pre-flop raiser, and using the positional advantage to control both pot size and our opponent via the float. We also discussed 3-betting before the flop in position (situational LAG) as well, both in low stack-to-pot ratio (SPR) Pump-and-Shove scenarios and in deepstack, mid- to high-SPR tactical scenarios. Now that we have mastered the loose-passive pre-flop, Small Ball elements of our overall playing strategy, we can turn our collective attention to our elements of pre-flop attack: loose-aggressive (LAG) pre-flop tactics. These elements are: 1. Opening fire on the blinds 2. Attacking the limper 3. 3-betting in position In APLO Volume I, we covered the basics of blind stealing and playing behind a limper in our discussion on Small Ball (Part IV), while 3-betting before the flop (Part V) was also covered in detail. Here in Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume II: LAG Play (APLO Vol. II) , we will examine these LAG tactics in greater depth in order to allow you to comfortably -- and profitably -- open up your game even further than before. Using This Book This book is designed to provide as little or as much case study as you, the reader, may require in order to grasp its ideas. It is meant to be an exhaustive -- but efficient -- study of LAG play. We begin by applying the concept of variable-ratio reinforcement to continuation bet frequencies in Part I: C-Bet Frequency. Then in Part II: The LAG Approach, we will discuss our LAG approach both before and after the flop. This will be followed by a discussion on playing in deep-stack ante games, which have become prevalent online in the year since APLO Vol. I was published. But then, following Part II, our focus shifts squarely from theory to application. Parts III through VII contain hand walkthroughs -- case studies, if you will -- covering the three LAG elements: opening fire on the blinds, attacking the limper, and 3-betting before the flop in position. The hand walkthroughs in each of those chapters are arranged by order of increasing stakes, with the exception of the beginning -- each chapter starts with hands from $2-$4 blind play, followed by $0.25-$0.50, $0.50-$1 and $1-$2 blind games, and then deep-stack ante games ranging from $0.50-$1 with $0.20 antes ($200-max) to $2-$4 with $0.75 antes ($800-max). That said, I recommend that you start by reading only the $2-$4 blind hands your first time through the book, and then go back and use the remaining hands for additional study as desired. Part III: Opening Fire on the Blinds includes 80 hands representing the most basic element of LAG play. Part IV: Attacking the Limper (33 hands) covers the second element of LAG play. Part V: Playing Out of Position (64 hands) deals with situations in which you have opened with a raise but wind up playing out of position after the flop, either because you raised and got called or 3-bet by a player with position on you, or because you were in the blinds and raised into either the big blind or a limper. Part VI: 3-Betting in Position vs. Small Ball (85 hands) deals with situations in which a player has opened with a raise in front of you, and you have a choice between flat-calling and playing Small Ball, or 3-betting in position -- our third element of LAG play. Part VII: Blind Defense (29 hands) covers situations in which you are in the blinds and out of position against the pre-flop raiser, and must choose between calling, 3-betting out of position -- a play that is generally not recommended -- or otherwise folding. All of the hands in this book are from short-handed online play, though these strategies and case studies apply to live play as well. By now, if you have read both my first book, Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy (PLOP) and Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Vol. I: Small Ball and Short-Handed Play (APLO Vol. I), you should have acquired virtually all of the technical skills and concept knowledge you need to play PLO at an advanced level. You should have a thorough comprehension of big-pot science, the straight draws in PLO, and starting hand construction from Pot-Limit Omaha Poker. You should also be familiar with floating and SPR, as well as the application of advanced skills such as check-raising, checking-andcalling (check-calling), and picking off bluffs as discussed in APLO Vol. I. The text that follows assumes that you are familiar with these concepts. And now, without wasting any more time on introductions, let’s talk about the key concept that drives our approach to c-betting, and in turn makes our LAG approach tick.
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Variable-Ratio Reinforcement
Once you get to a certain point in your development as a poker player -- once you’ve learned hand valuations and attained the necessary technical skills to play the game -- the next big step to opening up your game is figuring out how to regulate your opponents’ behavior in such a way as to make them easier to play against. That is, the next step is founded in large part on psychology. Enter variable-ratio reinforcement.
Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Variable-ratio reinforcement is generally defined as delivering reinforcement after a target behavior is exhibited a random number of times. Let’s take a slot machine, for example. A gambler sits down at a slot machine and bets $1 a pull. Now as you would expect, most of the time, the gambler will bet $1 and lose, which of course is great for the casino. But if all the gambler does is bet $1 and lose every time, eventually he will quit (and/or go broke) and never want to play again. And so every few spins, the slot machine will reward the gambler with a payoff: $1 here, $1 there; $5 here, $1 there. And then every once in a long while, the machine will reward the gambler with a big payoff in the form of a jackpot. Now none of this quite adds up, which is how the house wins in the long run. But the promise of the big payoff, along with the intermittent rewards, is generally enough for the casino to reinforce the target behavior, which is to have the gambler keep betting $1 a pull. That brings us to our next topic, which is the reinforcement schedule.
Reinforcement Schedules: Variable vs. Fixed There are two basic types of reinforcement schedules: variable-ratio reinforcement schedules, and fixed-ratio reinforcement schedules. Let’s start with the latter, which is the most basic. A fixed-ratio reinforcement schedule is a schedule in which reinforcement is delivered at fixed intervals. Let’s say, for example, that you are the casino and you want the slot machine to pay out 20% of the time, or every fifth spin. That is, the gambler will lose $1 four times in a row and get a payout on the fifth every time. The reinforcement schedule would look something like this: Slot Machine: Fixed-Ratio Reinforcement Schedule
Adjusted for payouts, the schedule might look more like: Slot Machine: Fixed-Ratio Reinforcement Schedule with Payouts
In this scenario, for every 25 spins, the gambler would win $18 on the five winning spins and lose $20 on the rest, for a net loss of $2. For the house, this represents a payout rate of 92% and a house edge of 8%, which isn’t too far from the real thing, depending on what casino you are in. Now all of this sounds great, but there is a major problem: Nobody would ever play a game with a payout (reinforcement) schedule like this one! Ok, so maybe “nobody” and “ever” might be a little strong, but the point remains: It wouldn’t take long for the gambler to figure out that this slot machine pays out every fifth spin, and only every fifth spin. And as a result, the gambler would eventually quit playing on the spins they know they are going to lose (assuming the payout amounts are still random, meaning that the location of the $10 payout on the schedule is either random or unknown, for example). Using a variable ratio is the fix for this problem.
Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Schedule A variable-ratio reinforcement schedule uses a predetermined ratio while delivering the reinforcement randomly. Going back to the slotFree machine,$50 let’s
say that you once again are the casino and want the slot machine to pay out 20% of the time, or every fifth time on average. Free $50 Now your reinforcement schedule may look something like: Slot Machine: Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Schedule
And adjusted for payouts: Slot Machine: Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Schedule with Payouts
In aggregate, the expectation is the same: Over 25 spins, the gambler will still net a $2 loss, giving the casino a 92% payout rate and an 8% house advantage. But in reality, this scenario is far, far more likely to achieve the desired result, which is to have the gambler keep playing. Because in contrast to the fixed-ratio reinforcement schedule, a variable-ratio reinforcement schedule with a 20% reinforcement ratio allows for clusters of payouts (e.g. backto-back wins), as opposed to having spins (or blocks of spins) where the gambler can say for certain that he would lose, and quit playing as a result. This is because the variable ratio does not specify when the payouts occur, only how often they occur on average. That said, with regard to PLO, there is one major application for variable-ratio reinforcement. That application is the continuation bet (c-bet).
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Pot-Limit Omaha: C-Betting Concepts
1. When heads up in position with the pre-flop initiative, you want to follow through with a continuation bet (c-bet) as often as you can get away with it without becoming a magnet for check-raises. 2. If you have a hand that can stand a check-raise, you should generally bet. 3. If you have no piece of the flop and have little chance to improve -- such as when you have 8♠ 7♠ 6♦ 5♦ on a K♥ Q♣ 2♥ board -- you should generally bet in a heads-up pot, but check in a multi-way pot. 4. If you have a marginal hand or draw that cannot stand a raise but has some value -- such as a non-nut flush draw, a gutshot or open-ended straight draw, or top pair or less -- you should tend to check behind. Ditto if you hit a pivot card (such as Q-J-9-8 on a T-5-2 board), where a lot of help can arrive on the turn to give you a big draw. 5. The weaker, or more straightforward the opponent -- the less likely he is to attempt to check-raise you -- the more often you should bet hands like one pair or air, and open-ended straight draws. 6. The trickier the opponent in a heads-up pot -- the more likely he is to attempt to check-raise you -- or the more opponents in the hand, the more often you should check behind those one-pair hands and open-ended straight draws.
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Part I: Continuation Bet (C-Bet) Frequency To c-bet or not to c-bet.
Here’s a typical situation, one that represents the majority of the hands you will encounter when playing against the blinds. You open with a raise from the button before the flop, and only the big blind calls. The flop comes x-x-x (any three cards), and your opponent checks. The SPR > 8. The question is this: How often do you follow through with a continuation bet (c-bet)? 50% of the time? 75%? 100%? The answer is that you c-bet as often as you can get away with it, without becoming a check-raise magnet. And how often that is depends largely on your opponent. Let’s say your opponent is the type who never check-raises, never checks-and-calls, and always folds to a c-bet after he checks. Against this opponent, you can safely follow through with a c-bet roughly 100% of the time (you might check the nuts) because you are going to win every time you bet. But if, instead, your opponent is on the other end of the spectrum and is the type to go for a check-raise every time he checks to you in this situation, you are basically doing one of two things: 1. Betting only the nuts or close to it, because that is better than betting air and then folding to a raise, betting a weak or nonnut draw and then folding to a raise, or betting a marginal hand like one pair and then having to guess how good it is when your opponent raises, or... 2. C-betting/3-betting virtually any time you catch a decent piece of the flop -- maybe even top pair or better -- if you can stomach it.
Obviously, most players fall somewhere between those two extremes, and of course you are going to flop the nuts more than 0% of the time as well (*again, if you were actually up against a 100% check-raiser, you might be c-betting/3-betting with a good chunk of your range), but you get the point: Your optimal c-bet frequency is going to be player-specific and dependent on how often your opponent check-raises, and to a lesser extent on how often he check-calls. In a perfect world, you would simply bet every single time your opponent checks. The problem is that you are going to miss the flop about as often as your opponents do, and -- this being Omaha -- you are going to miss (or simply not flop strong) more often than not. As a result, if you simply bet every time, you are going to wind up getting check-raised often by your more astute opponents. This is something you (or, at least, I) would prefer to avoid, because it makes your opponents less predictable and harder to play against, when you really want to win the small pots where nobody really has anything without much of fight. Obviously, against the weakest opponents who never check-raise and/or will always fold to c-bet when they check, you can go ahead and bet every time they check. But against everybody else, you should check back from time to time, and the trickier the player -- the more often they are willing to checkraise -- the more often you should check behind. PLO Tip: The less likely the opponent is to check-raise, and the more likely he is to fold to a c-bet after he checks, the more often you should follow through with a c-bet. PLO Tip: The trickier the opponent -- the more often they check-raise, and to a lesser extent the more often they check-call with marginal hands -- the more often you should check behind. Target Behavior and Reinforcement Now you don’t have to play a perfectly balanced game -- you just have to check back often enough to make your opponents more predictable and easier to play against. You want them to bet when they have it and check when they don’t. Every time you check behind reinforces the idea that you don’t bet every flop, which makes those times you do bet appear stronger by tightening your perceived betting range, while also discouraging your opponents from going for a check-raise with their strong hands by virtue of your threat to take the free card. And every time your opponent sees you check back top pair, undertrips or overpairs on paired boards, flush draws, gutshots, open-ended straight draws, etc. on the flop reinforces the idea that you don’t always have nothing every time you check behind on the flop, which will discourage your opponents (some, but not all) from blasting away on later streets. And again, you cater your check-back/c-bet range to your opponents, meaning that you go ahead and bet as often as you can get away with it, while checking behind more often against your more sophisticated opponents. This gets messy at times -- sometimes you will check and get outdrawn when your opponent would have folded to a bet, and sometimes you flop top pair and still just have top pair on the turn when your opponent comes out firing (which you often aren’t folding for one bet), etc. But nobody said the game was easy. Full-ring PLO and playing in multi-way pots is fairly straight-forward and fairly easy to teach; short-handed PLO and playing in short-handed pots is a lot trickier with a lot more gray area.
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In the case of the continuation bet, the target behavior is that you want your opponents to become predictable by virtually eliminating their check-raise Free $50 move, subsequently betting when they have it, and checking when they don’t. And you reinforce this behavior by checking behind with some frequency, varying that frequency based on the particular opponent. PLO Tip: You want your opponents to bet into to you when they have it, and check when they don’t. PLO Tip: Every time you check behind reinforces the idea that you don’t bet every time, which makes those times you do follow through with a c-bet appear stronger.
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C-Betting: Applying Variable-Ratio Reinforcement
The gist of the discussion thus far is that you want to discourage your opponents from check-raising you when you take the pre-flop initiative, while encouraging them to bet when they flop strong and check when they don’t. And in order to do so, you reinforce the “no check-raise” and “bet when they have it, check when they don’t” behaviors by checking behind from time to time; how often depends on the opponent. A 20% reinforcement schedule might look like this: C-Betting: Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Schedule (Illustration Only)
Note that the schedule is for illustration purposes only -- I’m not saying 20% is the magic number, only that this is what a 20% variable-ratio reinforcement schedule might look like. But the question is, how exactly would you go about applying such a schedule in real life? The answer is in the cards. VRR in Practice: Built-In Randomization is in the Cards There’s a key point to be made in all of this, and it is that randomizing your game doesn’t mean that you play randomly. It doesn’t mean that you look at your watch and base your playing decisions on the position of the second hand, or that you bet four times and then check once, or whatever. The key to randomizing your game is simply that you don’t play every flop the same way every time, while at least giving the appearance that you can hit most any flop hard. The appearance part is related to starting hand selection, which we will discuss in Part II: The LAG Approach. But there is a built-in mechanism for randomizing our play, and it is that flops are inherently random. In other words, the flop is different every time, because that is what happens when you deal three random cards out of a 52-card deck. Meanwhile, we have a different answer for any given flop depending on what we hold in our hand. Let’s take a 9♣ 7♦ 3♣ flop, for example. The situation is standard -- we open with a raise from the button and only the big blind calls, and the SPR > 8. The flop comes 9♣ 7♦ 3♣, and our opponent checks to us. You hold any one of a group of hands you might have opened with from the button. What do you do? Flop: 9♣ 7♦ 3♣, Your Opponent Checks*
Here’s how I approach it: Flop: 9♣ 7♦ 3♣, Your Opponent Checks*
Some of the decisions are fairly clear cut, while some of them are somewhat player dependent. For example, I am almost certainly betting the strong hands -- J♣ T♦ 9♠ 8♣ for top pair with a 13-card nut wrap and a flush draw; T♠ T♦ 9♠ 9♦ for top set; and A♣ A♦ J♠ 2♣ for an overpair and the nut $50 flush Free
draw. These are hands that I will not fold to a check-raise. Free $50 I am most likely checking K♠ Q♦ J♠ T♦ for a nut gutshot but no flush draw, having hit a pivot card (the 9♣) that could lead to a wrap on the turn, as well as a fistful of overcards. This hand has a lot of potential value that I would lose if I were to bet and get check-raised, in which case I would most likely have to fold. I am also likely checking K♦ Q♣ J♣ 2♥ for a non-nut flush draw, as it has some value I would lose if I were to bet and get check-raised, and then most likely have to fold. The other two hands -- A♥ K♠ Q♦ 9♠ for top pair and overcard improvers, and 7♠ 6♥ 5♠ 4♣ for middle pair and a sucker wrap -- are fairly player dependent. I would go ahead and bet these hands against weaker, more predictable opponents, but might check these hands back against trickier opponents for pot control purposes. So you can see how the variable ratio would change depending on the opposition, as I would bet five times out of these seven hands against a weaker opponent, but might only bet three times and check four times against a trickier opponent. You can also see how our play on any given flop is naturally randomized by the cards we hold in our hands. PLO Tip: Our play on any given flop is naturally randomized by the cards we hold in our hands.
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Sample Variable-Ratio Reinforcement Schedules
Let’s take another look at the contrast in variable-ratio reinforcement schedules over a sample of 25 hands against two different opponents -- a weak opponent who rarely check-raises, and a strong opponent who check-raises with some frequency. It is the same situation: You are heads up with position on the big blind, with the pre-flop initiative and an SPR > 8, and your opponent has checked to you. The shaded boxes represent hands you might bet against the particular opponent given your holding; the white boxes represent hands you might check back. VRR Schedule Against Weak Opponent Who Rarely CheckRaises
VRR Schedule Against Tricky Opponent Who CheckRaises with Some Frequency
Again, note the disparity in our reinforcement schedules against weaker opponents vs. trickier opponents. In this particular 25-hand sample, we would follow through with a c-bet 19 out of 25 times (76%) against the weaker opponent, but only 12 out of 25 times (48%) against the trickier player. Also note that these tables are for illustration purposes only, and that they by no means imply that 76% is the optimum c-bet percentage against a weak player or that 48% is an optimum c-bet percentage against a tough player -- the intention is only to illustrate the disparity between how we approach the two types of players given the same set of hands.
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C-Betting in Position: Practice Situations
1. It’s a $1-$2 game online, five-handed, and you are dealt T♦ T♠ 6♠ 6♥ in the cutoff seat. The UTG player folds. You ($221.05) open with a raise to $7, and only the big blind ($250.20) calls. The flop comes A♥ 9♥ 4♣. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Bet. You have an underpair without much in the way of improvers, and the ace-high flop provides a good c-betting opportunity. 2. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt A♦ K♥ T♦ 5♥ on the button. You open with a raise to $7, and only the big blind calls. The flop comes 9♦ 6♦ 3♥. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Check. With the bare nut-flush draw, you should generally take the free card. 3. It’s a $2-$4 game online, four-handed, and you are dealt A♥ K♥ J♠ 3♦ on the button. The UTG player folds. You ($1,151.90) open with a raise to $14, and only the small blind ($320.30) calls. The flop comes T♣ 9♥ 6♥, giving you the nut-flush draw with a nut-gutshot-straight draw. Your opponent checks. Do you check or bet? Answer: Bet. You have a nut gutshot with the nut-flush draw, and as such have enough draw that you do not fear a check-raise. 4. It’s a $1-$2 game with $0.30 antes online, six-handed. You are dealt A♥ J♦ 9♥ 3♥ in the cutoff. It gets folded to you, and you ($585.35) open with a raise to $8.80. Only the small blind ($147.70) calls. The flop comes 9♠ 9♣ 7♠, giving you trip nines with an ace kicker. Your opponent checks. Do you check or bet? Answer: Bet. Generally speaking, you should tend to bet overtrips. 5. It’s a $2-$4 game online, three-handed. You are dealt K♣ Q♦ T♣ 4♣ on the button. You ($400) open with a raise to $14, and only the small blind ($245.30) calls. The flop comes K♥ Q♣ 5♣, and your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Bet. Top two pair should generally be bet. 6. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $400 stacks. You are dealt J♥ T♦ 9♥ 8♣ on the button. The cutoff opens with a raise to $7. You re-raise to $24, and only the cutoff calls. The flop comes 8♦ 7♥ 4♣. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Bet. You cannot get check-raised off of top pair with a 13-card nut wrap. 7. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $400 stacks. You are dealt J♥ T♦ 9♥ 8♣ on the button. The cutoff opens with a raise to $7. You re-raise to $24, and only the cutoff calls. The flop comes Q♥ 6♦ 3♥. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Check. In a mid-SPR situation, you should take the free card with the bare-flush draw. 8. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed. You are dealt J♥ T♦ 9♥ 8♣ on the button. The cutoff ($400) opens with a raise to $7, and you ($400) re-raise to $24. The small blind folds, but the big blind ($75) calls. The cutoff now folds. The flop comes Q♥ 6♦ 3♥. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Bet. There is $56 in the pot, and the big blind has a $51 remaining stack, making this an ultra-low-SPR situation with less than one pot-sized bet left. With no money left to play, you cannot get check-raised off your draw. That said, you should bet and take a shot at winning the pot without a fight. 9. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt A♠ K♥ Q♠ T♦ on the button. You open with a raise to $7, and only the big blind calls. The flop comes Q♥ 6♦ 3♥. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Sometimes check, sometimes bet. With top pair and a fistful of overcard draws to top two pair, you can comfortably check back the flop for pot control purposes. But against a weak player, you should generally go ahead and bet it. 10. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt A♠ K♥ Q♠ T♦ on the button. The cutoff opens with a raise to $7. You re-raise to $24, and only the cutoff calls. The flop comes Q♥ 6♦ 3♥. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Bet the pot. You have top pair in a low-SPR situation. The play is to bet the pot and commit if check-raised. 11. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $400 stacks. You are dealt A♠ K♥ Q♠ T♦ on the button. The cutoff opens with a raise to $7. You re-raise to $24, and only the cutoff calls. The flop comes Q♥ 6♦ 3♥. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Sometimes check, sometimes bet. As in situation #9, you have top pair with a fistful of overcard outs, and with the pre-flop initiative in a midSPR situation (in contrast to situation #10); the only difference is that you 3-bet in this hand. The overriding consideration is SPR, and not the fact that you 3-bet pre-flop. In other words, it would be a mistake to say that you should c-bet top pair when you 3-bet pre-flop, because the fact that you 3-bet is not the deciding factor. 12. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt K♦ Q♣ T♥ 7♦ on the button, and open with a raise to $7. Only the big blind calls. The flop comes J♦ 5♥ 3♣. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Usually check, sometimes bet. You hit the pivot card, and have a backdoor diamond draw as well. That said, you should tend to check this. However, if your opponent is a weak player and rarely check-raises, you might venture a bet on this flop. 13. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt J♦ T♦ 8♥ 5♣ on the button, and open with a raise to $7. Only the big Free $50 blind calls. The flop comes K♦ 7♥ 2♣. Your opponent checks. What do you do?
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Answer: Bet. You have no hand, no draw, and little prospect for improvement on a relatively dry board. 14. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt K♥ Q♦ J♠ 9♥ on the button, and open with a raise to $7. Only the big blind calls. The flop comes T♥ 6♦ 4♠. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Usually check, sometimes bet. You hit the pivot card with backdoor hearts as well. Most of the time, you should check and take the free card. But against a truly weak opponent, betting is OK. 15. It’s a $1-$2 game online, six-handed, with $200 stacks. You are dealt A♠ K♠ J♦ 5♦ on the button, and open with a raise to $7. Only the big blind calls. The flop comes A♥ 8♦ 4♦. Your opponent checks. What do you do? Answer: Sometimes check, sometimes bet. This is a flop that offers some conflict, as you have top pair with a flush draw. The problem is that your flush draw is rather weak, and as a result, you may not be able to stand a check-raise. That said, you should tend to check back the flop and play pot-control, though you may still bet against weaker opponents.
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Part II: The LAG Approach
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The LAG approach to playing short-handed pots both before and after the flop. Our LAG (loose-aggressive) pre-flop playing approach encompasses three basic elements: 1. Opening fire on the blinds 2. Attacking lone limpers in position, and to an extent 3. 3-betting in position to isolate and build the pot for value. In other words, the basic elements are technically nothing we haven’t already talked about before. Our LAG approach does not so much represent a strategy in itself completely distinct from Small Ball, but rather a shift in emphasis from pot control to attack when playing against the blinds, when playing behind a limper, and when playing behind a pre-flop raiser. Put differently, the difference is not in the starting hands that we play, but rather what we do with them when there is one limper or are no limpers in front of us. Our focus is still on playing short-handed pots (heads up or three way) with the positional advantage. Under Small Ball, we are already playing a wide variety of hands in position. However, our Small Ball strategy allows for open-limping with a wide variety of hands from late position -- particularly the more marginal- and speculative-class hands -- where the positional advantage tends to trump the pre-flop initiative, and where we favor pot control and ease of play over aggression, the pre-flop initiative, and bloating pot size. That said, the more comfortable you become playing with the pre-flop initiative, the wider the range of hands and the more often you will be able to comfortably bring it in for a raise. Doing so will allow you to: 1. Pick up the blinds more often without a fight. You can’t win the blinds pre-flop by limping. The more often you open with a raise before the flop, the more blind money you can pick up without risking any more money. 2. Build the pot for value in a favorable situation where you have the positional advantage. The consolation prize for those times when the blinds defend is that you will generally be in a favorable situation in which you have the positional advantage, and now there is more money in the pot than there would have been had you merely open-limped. This is generally an advantage, unless raising pre-flop and taking the initiative causes you to make playing errors. 3. Have the versatility to take advantage of your opponents any way you see fit, and the ability to tailor your play to both your opponents and your opponents’ stack sizes. Having the ability to play both with and without the pre-flop initiative gives you greater versatility to tailor your play to your opponents, and to your opponents’stack sizes as well. It gives you the ability to changegears at will. You can open fire on the blinds and/or limpers, or limp in and play pot control, or otherwise force shorter-stacked players to play deep and see a flop, should you so choose. It’s important to note that playing a predominantly LAG pre-flop style does not preclude you from playing Small Ball, and vice versa. Playing LAG against the blinds does not mean that you can’t flat call raises pre-flop in position; nor does it mean that you can’t open limp with marginal or speculative hands -especially dry big pairs. The point to be made is that you don’t mold your playing style to fit a label; you don’t say “I want to be a LAG player” and then copy what “LAG players” do. Rather, labels such as “LAG” are meant to describe a general style of play, and not the other way around. In other words, you develop your own style of play -- which may incorporate elements of both the Small Ball and LAG approaches, and perhaps more of one approach than the other -- and then you can classify the overall body of work. In fact, if you truly become a complete player, you should not even be able to “label” your overall style as one thing or the other. You should be able to adjust your style of play to the situation and be able to vary your play between LAG and Small Ball as the situation dictates. Also note that playing a LAG style doesn’t mean that you play LAG in every position, but rather when you are in late position, or when you are in the hijack (and sometimes UTG in 6-handed play) and the players behind you are fairly tight. Because generally speaking, you don’t want to spend a lot of time getting caught playing heads up out of position with sub-premium hands, no matter what you label your style of play. Consequently, when playing out of position, you still want to open with predominantly premium-class hands. That said, our goal here is to develop the skills needed to further open up your game and enable a more LAG-heavy style of play. Let’s take a look at our LAG approach before the flop.
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Opening Fire on the Blinds
The first thing to note about starting hand considerations is that the set of playable starting hands under a LAG-heavy approach is identical to the set of playable starting hands under the Small Ball-heavy approach (which in itself is an extension of the starting hands prescribed in Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy). Again, the only real difference is what you do with those hands. And in this context, “LAG” simply means “taking the pre-flop initiative,” whereas “Small Ball” means playing without it. In other words, we are already playing rather loosely under Small Ball; our LAG approach simply adds the aggression factor. When opening fire on the blinds -- the first and most basic element of our LAG approach -- you still want a hand that has big-pot potential. Playing LAG does not mean that you throw all starting hand criteria out the window. Rather, your hand may or may not have some structural weakness (like a gap, for example), but it should still have the potential to develop into a big-pot hand. All hands should be at least single-suited -- if you are on the button with Q-J-T-9 rainbow and everybody has folded to you, you should tend to avoid raising and bloating the pot, as this hand lacks real big-pot potential without having the benefit of a suit. From the button, this means: - Premium-class hands. Any four-card rundown with a suit from A-K-Q-J down to 6-5-4-3, big double-pair hands with a suit, premium-plus AAhands, premium pair-plus hands such as Q♠ Q♣ J♠ T♣, suited-ace hands with rundowns such as A-9-8-7 with a suited ace, etc. Also, any four-card rundown with a single gap from A-K-Q-T down to 6-5-4-2, A-K-J-T down to 6-5-3-2, and A-Q-J-T down to 7-5-4-3, though the top gap hands (K-J-T-9 down to 7-5-4-3) are technically more marginal hands. - Speculative-class hands. Speculative-class wrap hands with high-card strength, such as Q-J-9-7 and Q-J-T-7; smaller pairplus wrap hands such as 9-8-7-7; suited aces with connectors, such as A♠ 9♦ 8♥ 2♠; suited aces with big pairs, such as A♠ Q♣ Q♦ 4♠; and suited-aces, Broadway-wrap hands like A♠ K♦ J♣ 3♠. - Three Broadway cards. Any three cards ten-and-higher, such as K-Q-J-x, K-Q-T-x, and A-J-T-x. - Three middle rundowns with an overcard kicker. In other words, you can bring it in for a raise with Q-9-8-7, but you should generally open limp with 9-8-7-2. - Small-Ball hands. Any three cards with 13-card nut wrap potential, at least single-suited. In other words, you can open fire on the blinds with potentially your entire playing range with the exception of dry pairs. With that list in mind, the tighter the blinds are, the wider your blind-stealing range should be. If the blinds are extremely tight, you might consider raising with virtually any hand you choose to play, with one caveat: You should generally avoid trying to steal the blinds with hands with dry pairs in them, such as J-J-5-3 with a suit, Q-Q-T-7 with a suit, or K-K-J-2 with a suit, as you are likely going to be handicapped after the flop unless you flop a set. However, a hand like A♠ Q♣ Q♦ 4♠ for a big pair with a suited ace is good enough for a raise, as is a hand like K♠ K♦ Q♠ J♣. Again, playing “LAG” doesn’t mean that you have to raise with every hand you play. If you are more comfortable open-limping with speculative wrap hands like 7-6-4-2 with a suit or a marginal Small-Ball hand like J-6-4-3 with a suit, then you can go ahead and openlimp with them. PLO Tip: You want a hand that may or may not have a structural weakness (like a gap), but at least has legitimate potential to develop into a big-pot hand. All hands should be at least single-suited. PLO Tip: You should generally avoid raising with hands that you don’t want to get 3-bet with, namely dry pairs. Adjustments for the Cutoff Seat When everybody folds to you in the cutoff seat, you have another obstacle to overcome, and that is the player on the button. Generally speaking, you should tighten up a bit in the cutoff seat. But how much so depends on how loose, tight, and/or aggressive the player behind you is (his or her stack size is another major consideration, which we will discuss in the next section: Playing Out of Position). Ideally, you’d like to have a really tight player on your left who rarely -- if ever -- calls raises pre-flop. This way, you effectively get to have the button twice, and therefore don’t have to adjust your game much. But if, instead, the player on your left is extremely loose and will call any pre-flop raise, you need to tighten up your blind-stealing requirements -- otherwise, you will often find yourself playing heads up out of position after the flop when the button calls your raise, but the blinds fold. In fact, with this type of player on your left, you can still open limp with a wide range, so long as the button doesn’t raise much preflop, but you should avoid opening with a raise with most everything except the premium-class hands. Now if, instead, you have a maniac on your left who raises and 3-bets pre-flop at every opportunity, then you have even more problems, as you can no longer figure on seeing the flop cheaply. In that case, you need to tighten up considerably. You should also look to change seats, or otherwise find a different game From the Hijack Seat Clearly, you should tighten up more from the hijack seat. You can still take some liberties if the players behind you are fairly tight; otherwise, if the players behind you are fairly tough and/or loose, you may want to restrict your open raising range to premium-class hands. As we have discussed in both Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy and Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume I: Small Ball and ShortHanded Play, the one thing you want to avoid is getting stuck playing pots heads up out of position, and especially with sub-premium hands. PLO Tip: You want to avoid getting stuck playing pots heads up out of position, and especially with sub-premium hands. With tough and/or loose players behind you, you should tighten up your open-raising range considerably.
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UTG Free $50 Playing UTG six-handed, you should be playing reasonably tight, unless the players behind you are unbelievably tight, or are really just so weak after the flop that you just don’t care. The Size of the Raise Generally speaking, when you are on the button and there is nobody else in the hand but the blinds, you should go ahead and bring it in for a full pot-sized raise. In other words, in a $1-$2 game online, you should go ahead and bet the full $7, especially since it is natural in online play to simply bet the max (3.5x the big blind in this case); alternatively, in a $2-$5 game live, it is natural to open with a raise to either $15 (3x the big blind) or $20 (4x the big blind). However, if the blinds are extremely tight, but you have a hand like Q-J-T-9 double-suited and you really want to see the flop, you might consider bringing it in for a minimum raise to encourage action. Not only is a pot-sized raise the most natural bet size in online play, it is the one that has the greatest chance of either picking up the blinds, isolating limpers, or otherwise resulting in a heads-up pot in position after the flop. In addition, a full pot-sized raise also maximizes the value of the positional advantage by building a bigger pot before the flop than a smaller raise would. When playing out of position, you really need to consider the purpose of the raise. If you are opening fire on the blinds, then you should probably bring it in for the full raise. If, on the other hand, the players behind you are fairly loose but you still want to juice the pot a little, you might consider bringing it in for a smaller raise to encourage the blinds to come in and create a multi-way pot.
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Playing Out of Position: The Impact of Stack Sizes
When playing out of position -- meaning any position but the button for the purposes of this particular discussion -- there is another major consideration other than how loose/tight, passive/aggressive, or weak/strong the players behind you are, and it is stack size. Consider the following two scenarios. It is a six-handed $1-$2 blind game, you are in the hijack seat, and the UTG player has folded, so that action is on you. Your actual hand is irrelevant. Assume that all opponents are competent, but not strong. In which situation would you be more likely to open with a raise? Situation A, or Situation B?
The best answer should be fairly obvious, and it should be Situation A. You see, when everybody has 100BB stacks, the main consideration is how loose/tight, passive/aggressive or weak/strong the players behind you are. But when you are sitting deep in a game where there are other big stacks in the neighborhood of 200BBs+, the location of those stacks becomes extremely important and the overriding factor in your decisions. In Situation A, you have position on all of the big stacks, and, therefore, are not so concerned with the players behind you, though you should still tighten up a bit if the players behind you are strong, loose players who are likely to challenge you in position. That said, generally speaking, you can afford to play quite liberally from the hijack seat in this type of situation. But Situation B, on the other hand, is suicide. In this situation, you are really playing two games: a 50BB to 75BB game against the players you have position on, but a 250BB game against the players who have position on you. And not only should you play squeaky tight, but you really need to pick up and find another game. This is a situation with not a lot of upside, but a lot of downside.
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Attacking the Limper
The second element of our LAG approach is Attacking the Limper. Let’s say that you are on the button, and only one player has limped in front of you. Generally, in this spot, you should revert to normal full-ring strategy, which is to raise with the premium-class hands, and limp in with the speculative and marginal hands -- which now include the additional Small Ball hands presented in this chapter. However, if the blinds are extremely tight and the limper is a weak player, you might consider raising with additional hands, which should generally be composed of high cards -- hands such as K-Q-J-8 or K-Q-T-7 at least single-suited, or a Broadway wrap hand like A-K-T-3 with a suited ace. By raising, you are looking to knock out the blinds and isolate the limper, while building a bigger pot for value when you have the positional advantage against weak players. Playing Behind Two or More Limpers When two or more players have limped in front of you, you can anticipate playing a multi-way pot after the flop. In this case, you should generally revert to normal full-ring strategy and restrict your raises to premium-class hands, while limping in with speculative and marginal hands.
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Facing a Raise in Position: 3-Betting vs. Small Ball
When you face a raise and have the positional advantage on the pre-flop raiser, you have three choices. You can either: 1. Fold 2. Call and play Small Ball, or 3. 3-bet (re-raise) to improve your chances of isolating the raiser, while building the pot for value. We discussed 3-betting pre-flop -- the third and final element of our LAG approach -- in Part V of Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume I: Small Ball and Short-Handed Play, and if you haven’t already done so, I recommend going back and reading that discussion. That said, the most important thing is that you maintain control of the hand. And assuming that you are not folding, there are a number of factors that may affect your decision whether to 3-bet to isolate and build the pot for value, or whether to call and play Small Ball: 1. Absolute Position. If you are on the button, you can 3-bet comfortably knowing that nobody else can come in behind you. But if you are in the hijack seat and the UTG player opens with a raise, you might think twice about 3-betting with K♥ 7♦ 5♥ 4♦ or J♠ 9♦ 8♠ 6♦ -- if somebody else is liable to call (or raise) and keep position on you after the flop. These types of hands do well enough heads up with the positional advantage, but are less valuable in multi-way pots. 2. Stack sizes. Let’s say it’s a $1-$2 game, and you ($200) are dealt J♠ 9♦ 8♠ 6♦ on the button. The cutoff seat opens with a raise to $7, and it is your turn to act. You should be more inclined to 3-bet your opponent if he has $200 or 100BB stack than if he has a $40 or 20BB stack, as 3-betting light against the short stacks serves merely to neutralize your positional advantage. 3. The contents of your hand. Let’s say it’s a $1-$2 game with $200 stacks. You are on the button, and the cutoff opens with a raise to $7. In this case, you should be more inclined to 3-bet with a hand like J♠ 9♦ 8♠ 6♦ -- a double-suited rundown with two single gaps, and the kind of hand that does well enough in either Pump-and-Shove (low-SPR) 3-bet situations or deep-stack isolation 3-betting situations -- but flat call with a pure Small Ball hand like Q♦ T♥ 9♦ 5♣, a single-suited rundown with a top gap and a dangler. Also, as noted, you should generally avoid 3-betting with hands containing single pairs other than A-A-x-x -- such as K♠ K♦ Q♥ 5♦ or 9♦ 9♠ 8♦ 7♠ -as these kinds of hands are hard to improve to when they miss the flop, and they are going to miss the flop more often than not. The exception is when the stacks are really deep -- maybe 200-300BBs or more -- and you have a real premium pairplus hand like K♠ K♦ Q♠ J♦. What you really want to avoid is a situation where you get 4-bet and get stuck with a dry pair in a low-SPR situation and have to guess at how good the pair is (against what often -- but not always -- will be A-Ax-x). At least when you flop a pair while holding a hand with four cards of separate rank (like T-9-8-7), you can generally shove comfortably in a low-SPR situation, knowing that you probably have about 11 (or more) outs against A-A-x-x, depending on what else you have in addition to two pair or trips draws. You don’t have this luxury when holding dry kings. 4. The action in front of you. If you are on the button and the cutoff opens with a raise in front of you, you can generally afford to be quite liberal when 3-betting. However, if there is a raise and a call in front of you, you should generally restrict your 3-bets to the premium-class hands, as you are very unlikely to see the flop heads-up in this case -- or at least not for 3-bets (you might see a 4-bet from the original raiser that knocks out the player in between, though!). 5. Your opponent. With extremely weak opponents over whom you have complete control afterthe flop, you might be able to get away with doing just about anything you want before the flop. But with more sophisticated opponents -- particularly those who may be strong enough to outplay you in 3bet pots from out of position -- you might save your 3-bets for your stronger hands, while flat-calling and playing Small Ball with everything else. 6. Your own comfort level. This aspect is almost completely ignored when most players talk about the merits of 3-betting. Usually, whenever the topic of 3-betting is discussed, there’s always at least one guy who says “3-betting is the nuts!” But as I have stressed before, post-flop play dictates pre-flop playing strategy. 3-betting in itself is not actually the nuts -- how strong the play can be depends greatly on your comfort playing after the flop in 3-bet pots. That said, the more practice you get and the more comfortable you become playing in 3-bet pots with the initiative, the more often you should 3-bet. On the other hand, if you find yourself constantly getting outplayed after 3-betting in position, you might be better off tightening your 3-bet range, or otherwise try spending time practicing the play in smaller games than usual. 3-betting and taking the initiative vs. flat calling and playing Small Ball is the subject of Part VI: 3-Betting in Position vs. Small Ball.
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Playing from the Blinds
The place the average player screws up most is when playing in the blinds. The first big mistake the average player makes is loosely defending their blind against raises, and as a result winds up playing big pots out of position with sub-premium hands. The second big mistake the average player makes is thinking that they need to attack limpers -- or attack the big blind when in the small blind -- and as a result winds up building big pots out of position with sub-premium hands. No matter what you label your playing style -- “LAG” or otherwise -- you should focus more on attacking the other players’blinds when in position than defending your small blind or trying to attack them from out of position. And in either blind position, you should tend to avoid “attacking limpers” with a whole lot less than premium-class hands. When Everybody Has Folded to You in the Small Blind When everybody has folded to you in the small blind, you should avoid trying to steal if the big blind is a tough player, as he is liable to call (or 3-bet) any raise you make, at which point you will be heads up out of position in a raised pot, in a game (PLO) where making the last raise doesn’t yield as big an advantage as having the positional advantage. Generally speaking, you wouldn’t be giving up much if you simply gave up your small blind every time. That said, you should generally fold if the big blind is tough, though you will probably play the premium-class hands, anyway. And that said, open-limping with premium hands from the small blind against a tough opponent in the big blind isn’t nearly as bad as it sounds if you consider the importance of position. I’m not saying you shouldn’t raise with the real premium hands; I’m just saying that it’s something to consider. After all, limping in and calling a raise might be better than raising and getting 3-bet. On the other hand, if the big blind is a weak player over whom you might have some control even from out of position, you might play a little more liberally. You probably raise with the premium-class hands, though you might limp in and try to play a small pot with some of the more mediocre hands. Playing from the Big Blind When Only the Small Blind Has Limped When you are in the big blind and only the small blind has limped in front of you, how to play it is really up to you. Generally speaking, the more comfortable you are playing with the pre-flop initiative and/ or the weaker your opponent, the more often you should raise in order to either build the pot for value, or otherwise win the pot outright. 3-Betting Out of Position No way. Well, maybe I shouldn’t say “No way.” Players can often get away with 3-betting pre-flop from out of position in online games where the stacks are often less than (and sometimes considerably less than) 100 big blinds -- and there are probably times where stack sizes may dictate that 3-betting from out of position and creating a low-SPR situation with a real premium-class hand may be preferable to flat calling and playing a mid-range SPR situation heads up out of position -- but the play has little to no application in deeper stacked play, and especially deeper stacked live play. I’m not saying I’ve never done it -- in fact, I’ve included several hands in Part VI: Blind Defense in which I’ve 3-bet from out of position myself. But you have to think carefullyabout what you are trying to accomplish when doing so. For example, if you are trying to discourage the button raiser from trying to steal your blinds in the future, then forget about it: It’s probably not going to work. Personally, I’ve never raised from the button in PLO and folded to a 3-bet from the blinds before in my life. If the stacks are reasonably deep -- 100 BBs or so or bigger -- the button raiser is usually licking his lips when a player in the blinds comes out with a 3-bet; if the stacks are little shorter to the extent that there is one bet left or so, the button raiser usually will say “OK” and go along with it. Just about the only time the player on the button will reallybe annoyed by a 3-bet from the blinds is when the 3-bet is all-in or near it, and that is assuming the player on the button doesn’t have A-A-x-x. Much like being the first raiser out of position, 3-betting out of position usually serves to merely build a bigger pot out of position. If there is any advantage in it, it is probably marginal at best. I think most of the time, most players are better off giving up their blinds to the first raise than 3-betting and either compounding the problem or otherwise chasing a small edge. This will become even more true as some online sites move to raise the minimum buy-ins on their PLO games.
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LAG Play: Post-Flop Play
In terms of hand valuation, post-flop play is essentially identical regardless of pre-flop playing approach; the real difference between post-flop play using a LAG-heavy approach vs. a Small Ball-heavy approach is that you will be playing with the pre-flop initiative more often when you take a more LAG-heavy approach. This, in turn, means that you will probably be checking behind more often when taking a LAG-heavy approach than a Small-Ball-heavy approach. Here’s the basic situation once again: You open with a raise before the flop from the button, and only the big blind calls. The SPR > 8, so this is a deepstack scenario where there are three legitimate bets left to play. At this point, there are two basic possibilities on the flop: Your opponent will either (a) Check, or (b) Bet. Situation A: Your Opponent Checks This is the situation we’ve been talking about thus far: Whether to follow through with a c-bet or whether to check behind. If you have a hand strong enough to withstand a check-raise -- such as top set, the nut flush, a nut wrap, or the nut flush draw with a gutshot -- or if you have no piece of the board and little chance of improving whatsoever, then you should go ahead and bet. If you have a marginal hand or a draw that cannot stand a raise but has some value -- such as a non-nut flush draw, a gutshot or open-ended straight draw, or top pair or less -- you should tend to check behind. You should also tend to check if you hit a pivot card (such as Q-J-9-8 on a T-5-2 board), where a lot of help can arrive on the turn to give you a big draw. And the weaker, or more straightforward the opponent, the more often you should bet those marginal hands or draws. Meanwhile, the trickier the opponent -- the more likely he is to attempt to check-raise you -- the more often you should check behind those one-pair hands and open-ended straight draws. Situation B: Your Opponent Bets Into You This is a different scenario from the one described thus far in this book, but if you have already read Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume I: Small Ball and Short-Handed Play, then you are already equipped to handle it. And basically what it comes down to is mastering the float, the subject of Part I of Volume I. If your opponent bets into you, you should tend to call (float) if you catch a piece of the board (such as top pair or two pair) or flop some kind of nut draw, such as the nut flush draw, a big wrap that contains some non-nut outs, a nut open-ended straight draw and perhaps a nut gutshot straight draw as well. The key thing to remember is that the big-pot hands are still the big-pot hands, and the small-pot hands are still small-pot hands. So if you flop a big-pot hand like the nut straight with a flush draw, the overfull, or a 13-card nut wrap with a flush draw, then you should still raise if your opponent bets into you. On the other hand, the small-pot hands such as the bare nut straight, middle set, top two pair and undertrips are still small-pot hands in a heads-up pot, and as such, you should tend to smooth call with these hands when facing a bet. In addition to keeping the size of the pot down, one of the main benefits of smooth calling with these strong small-pot hands is that doing so will add weight to the float. This is because if your opponents think you only smooth call with air, they will start firing second shots more and more often, which will devalue the float. If, on the other hand, your opponents know that you will smooth call with the nut straight, a set, and trips, they will be less inclined to keep firing once you’ve called on the flop. Now if you miss the flop completely and your opponent bets, you should tend to fold, though you might consider a bluff raise if the board is paired or there is a possible flush on the board. Below is a table using K♠ Q♥ T♠ 7♦ as an example. K-Q-T-7 with a single suit is a fairly representative LAG hand in that it is imperfect with a gap and a relative dangler (the seven does not help form a wrap and thus is a dangler, but does help form a nut straight and thus is not a complete dangler), but it has 13-card nut wrap-plus flush draw potential. As a result, this hand is going to flop a small-pot hand the vast majority of the time, but at the same time has some potential to develop into a big-pot hand.
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Controlling the Turn-River: The CheckBack Range and The Float
So far, we have discussed the importance of checking behind with regard to LAG play and deflecting check-raises on the flop. That said, once you have checked behind on the flop, your control of the hand on the turn and river is a function of two things: 1. Your check-back range on the flop 2. The float The Check-Back Range The first part is your check-back range on the flop, which must be wide enough -- and must have enough value in it -- in order to make checking back the flop work. Let’s say you open with a raise before the flop, and are heads up with position on the big blind after the flop. Let’s also say you are c-betting whenever you catch any piece of the board, any time you flop air, or any time you flop a draw bigger than a gutshot -- in other words, you are betting every time unless you flop a gutshot straight draw. Obviously, how often that happens depends on what your pre-flop raising range is, but for the sake of discussion, let’s say you flop a gutshot 5% of the time, and thus are c-betting 95% of the time. There are a few problems with this. One is that there is no way you flop strong often enough to stand a check-raise on 95% of flops, and thus you are going to get check-raised often. Secondly, there is no pot-control element to your play, and you might find yourself having some problems with small-pot hands like A-A-x-x on a paired board, non-nut flushes, undertrips, etc. But the other main problem -- and the point of this particular discussion -- is that your opponents will start to recognize how weak your check-back range is, and begin to pounce on you every time you check back the flop. This is a problem because you only hit the gutshot 9% of the time on the turn, and unless you are calling on the turn with the bare gutshot (assuming you don’t pick up anything else), then your opponent will win the pot about 91% of the time on the turn with a bet. But what if you include open-ended straight draws and flush draws in your check-back range? Well, with these draws you still only hit about 18% and 20% of the time on the turn, respectively. How about checking top pair? Now we are starting to get a little stronger, as you will improve to two pair or trips by the turn about 24% of the time, and thus will have enough hand to call a bet on its own merits. However, if you are only calling a turn bet less than 24% of the time after checking the flop, you are still going to get run over. That said, merely checking behind a lot on the flop carries little value unless you are also consistently blocking steal attempts on the turn -- otherwise, you pretty much are just giving up the pot when you check back the flop. Enter the float (again). The Float The float is the final piece of the puzzle, and the one that holds our LAG approach together like glue. Because not only must you deflect check-raise attempts on the flop, but you must also discourage steal attempts on the turn, river, or turn-river by blocking them with the float. Moreover, you must block them often enough to raise your opponent’s perceived risk profile of attempting to steal such that your opponents will stop trying, allowing you to either take a shot at the pot on the turn yourself, or take the free card again. Your opponent has to know that he will have to fire two shots to win the pot, and that your check-back range is wide enough -- and has enough value in it -to withstand two shots often enough that trying to steal is futile. The bottom line is that when you check back the flop, you are going to see the river, almost without fail (almost -- you’d probably check a pivot card like KQ-T-7 on a J-4-3 flop, but fold unimproved, and you probably fold a bare gutshot as well, and probably bare non-nut flush draws, too). And at this point, it is now quite relevant that you are going to hit that gutshot straight draw 17% of the time by the river, that open-ender 33% of the time, and that flush draw 36% of the time. Meanwhile, when you check back top pair, you will improve to two pair or trips about 43% of the time, assuming you don’t have another pair in your hand. In other words, when you check back the flop, you are going to have something legitimate to call (or raise) a bet with on the river -- if not the turn -- a healthy percentage of the time, and we haven’t even taken into account whatever other combinations of draws you might pick up on the turn. And the threat of that outcome will serve to discourage your opponent from initiating a turn-river steal sequence to begin with, thus giving you greater control of the pot. That said, in order for this to work, you must consistently make the stopping call -- the float -- and block your opponent from stealing the pot on the turn.
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Playing Out of Position After the Flop
You shouldn’t strive to do it intentionally, but if you raise before the flop from any position other than the button, you are inevitably going to wind up playing hands heads up out of position from time to time, either because somebody called or 3-bet your raise. The main adjustment you have to make is that you can’t fold every time you raise before the flop and then check to your opponent, particularly against your more astute opponents who float often or are otherwise inclined to bet if you check. What that really means is that you have to include legitimate holdings in your checking range -- hands that you would be comfortable either checking-andcalling or check-raising with. Good candidates for checking-and-calling include top pair or overpairs, or the bare nut flush draw, perhaps with some overcards or other potential help to go with it. You should generally go ahead and bet your stronger hands or draws, but you should have the check-raise in your arsenal as well. And so, good candidates for a check-raise might be the nut flush draw with a gutshot, a nut wrap, top set, or other big-pot holdings. That said, you should tend to bet your strong hands. Meanwhile, having the check-call and check-raise in your arsenal will discourage your opponents from stealing every time you raise before the flop and check to them on the flop, which will at times buy you a free card and/or a steal opportunity on the turn. Low-SPR Situations and 3-Bet Pots Out of Position In low-SPR situations in general, the low-SPR rules apply -- you are basically either going to bet/commit or check-raise top pair-or-better, or an openended straight draw or better. Now when you open with a raise and get 3-bet by a player behind you and only you call, your opponent has the pre-flop initiative. In these spots, the standard play will generally be to go for a check-raise with your strong low-SPR (small-pot) hands, which means anything you would shove in a low-SPR situation. Getting 3-Bet in a Mid-to-High-SPR Situation When you open with a raise and get 3-bet by a player with position on you, only you call, and the SPR > 4, the situation is a bit trickier. Sometimes, if you flop strong, you might simply lead into your opponent and hope he raises so you can 3-bet. But as the SPR climbs towards 13 and reaches high-SPR territory (4-bet territory), the one thing you stop doing is check-raising with marginal hands, like bare top pair, or top- and bottom-two pair. Remember, the SPR rules pretty much always apply: 3-bet territory (SPR is between 4 and 13) is judgment territory, which means you check-raise with small pot hands at your own discretion; but anything higher than 13 is clear 4-bet territory, which means big-pot hands (or air) only. And so, for marginal hands or draws in mid- to high-SPR situations, your best play is often the check-call and/or reverse float (check-call, bet turn).
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C-Betting Situations: Out of Position
1. It’s a $0.50-$1 game with $0.20 antes, six-handed, and you are dealt A♥ Q♥ J♣ 3♠ in the cutoff seat. You ($279.80) open with a raise to $4.70. The button ($136.90) calls. The small blind folds, but the big blind ($416.90) calls. The flop comes K♣ T♥ 6♠. The big blind checks. Do you check or bet? Answer: Bet. You cannot get raised off of the 13-card nut wrap. 2. It’s a $2-$4 game with $0.75 antes, five-handed, and you are dealt A♥ K♣ T♣ 8♣ in the cutoff seat. The UTG player folds. You ($1,480.55) open with a raise to $17.75, and only the button ($416.35) calls. The flop comes T♥ 5♥ 3♣. What do you do? Answer: Either check-call or bet. You have top pair and a handful of overcard draws to top two pair. Rather than bet out and risk bloating the pot or otherwise getting raised off the hand, a check-call may induce a bet from a worse hand. Meanwhile, you also have the dry A♥, and so you don’t really fear a heart falling, as a third heart may serve to help you win the pot. In the actual hand, I bet the pot and my opponent folded, but I do like the check-call here as well. 3. A $0.50-$1 game with $0.20 antes, five-handed. You are dealt K♠ 9♠ 8♦ 7♣ UTG. You ($572.90) open with a raise to $4.50, and only the cutoff ($459.70) calls. The flop comes Q♣ 8♣ 3♥. Do you check or bet? Answer: Bet. This is a half-awkward situation where you have a marginal hand (middle pair) and no draw. Checking and calling will not alleviate the situation. I think the best option is to simply bet the hand through (pot/pot/half-pot, a.k.a. The Betting Machine). 4. It’s a $0.50-$1 game with $0.20 antes, six-handed. You ($200) are dealt A♣ T♣ 9♦ 8♠ in the small blind. The first two players fold. The cutoff ($59.65) limps in. The button folds. You raise to $5.20, and both the big blind ($147.25) and limper call. The flop comes 7♠ 7♥ 5♣. Do you check or bet? Answer: Check or bet. With two players behind you, the best you can do here is guess, and there are no good options. You could bet and hope neither of your opponents have anything, or you can check-pray. In the actual hand, I checked and gave up the pot to a bet from the cutoff. 5. It’s a $1-$2 game with $200 stacks, six-handed. You are dealt A♠ K♦ Q♠ J♥ UTG, and open with a raise to $7. Only the button calls. The flop comes 7♠ 7♦ 3♠, giving you the nut-spade draw. Do you check or bet? Answer: Check-call, sometimes bet. Betting is always an option when you are in a heads-up pot. That said, you have the nut flush draw and a full slate of overcard outs. Moreover, checking on these paired boards does not necessarily signal weakness -- in fact, if your opponent is at least moderately competent, he is more likely to give you credit for A-A-x-x if you check and then call a bet. I like checking and calling any bet and seeing what your opponent does on the turn. If your opponent checks the turn, then you can go ahead and bet the river unimproved, either check-call or bet if you pair up, and probably value bet if you make the flush. This would be a form of semi-bluff reverse float. Checking and calling in this situation is a little bit more palatable than in the previous hand, if only because you are heads up rather than three way.
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Special Insert: Playing in Deep-Stack Ante Games
In the year since APLO Volume I was published (June 2009), deep-stack ante games have sprung up on some of the bigger online poker sites. These games generally feature 200BB max buy-ins and antes of varying size, depending on the stakes and the site. For example, a $0.50-$1 blind game might have $0.20 antes and a 200BB max buy-in, while a $1-$2 blind game might have $0.30 antes along with a 200BB max buy-in. Because of the dead money in the pot, these types of games strongly favor the loose-aggressive pre-flop player -- these games are tailor made for the primary LAG tactic, which is opening fire on the blinds in position, as well as attacking the limper in position. Meanwhile, the deep buy-ins allow for deepstack 3-betting, as opposed to low-SPR Pump-and-Shove type 3-betting. Basically, these types of games favor LAG players who understand the fundamentals of deep-stack play -- big-pot science, the straight draws, SPR, floating, and the positional advantage -- or basically, exactly the type of player who has been reading what I have been writing thus far. Blind LAG players who do not understand the fundamentals and just LAG it up because aggression is easy to justify will get killed. Tight, passive players may not get killed, but won’t get very far. Meanwhile, players who defend their blinds liberally or 3-bet out of position are committing suicide. Adjustments for Playing in Ante Games The first adjustment that should be made when playing in ante games is to favor opening fire on the blinds, as opposed to open-limping with marginal hands. For example, if you are dealt J♣ 6♦ 4♣ 3♦ on the button -- very much a Small Ball hand -- and everybody has folded to you, you might open-limp on the button in a standard $1-$2 blind game with no ante. But in a $1-$2 blind game with $0.30 antes, you might be more inclined to put in a raise and open fire on the blinds. Not only does the dead money from the antes provide an extra incentive to put in a raise and try to pick up the blinds and antes, but the antes also provide leverage to knock out the blinds -- the extra money means a bigger pot, which means that a pot-sized raise is going to be bigger, which means that you are no longer raising to 3.5x the big blind when you open with a pot-sized raise, but rather more than 4x the big blind, depending on how many players posted antes. In a six-handed $0.50-$1 game with $0.20 antes, for example, a pot-sized raise is to $4.70 or 4.7x the big blind, rather than $3.50 or 3.5x the big blind, as would be the case in a standard game. In a five-handed $0.50-$1 game with $0.20 antes, a pot-sized open would be to $4.50 (with one fewer player and one fewer $0.20 ante, a pot-sized open would be reduced by $0.20). Open-limping is still OK, but you now have more incentive to put in a raise. In addition, you have both more incentive and more leverage to attack limpers for the same reasons -- the dead money adds incentive, while allowing you to make bigger raises to discourage the blinds from defending. It is important to note however, that you should probably still exclude dry pairs when opening fire on the blinds, as they still typically result in flopping a small-pot hand (one pair) after the flop. PLO Tip: The dead money from the antes provides extra incentive to open fire on the blinds and attack limpers, while also providing extra leverage to encourage the blinds to fold. Non-Adjustments for Playing in Ante Games Another key concept is that the only time there is dead money in the pot is before the flop. In other words, post-flop play in ante games is identical to post-flop play in standard games. This is because a pot-sized bet after the flop is still a pot-sized bet, rather than a sub-pot-sized bet with an overlay. This is in stark contrast to limit poker games, where extra dead money often provides an overlay, and can cause changes in post-flop strategy by virtue of the extra money in the pot. This is a very important idea, as it is easy to figure some players trying out ante games and wildly overplaying their hands after the flop because of the dead money in the pot before the flop. PLO Tip: In ante PLO games, the only time there is dead money in the pot is before the flop. PLO Tip: Post-flop play in ante games is identical to post-flop play in standard games. The second non-adjustment you need to not make is to start defending your blinds liberally on account of the dead money. As in a standard structure game, this is inviting disaster. It’s a trap. Again, a lot of players will look at the dead money as providing an overlay, but that overlay only exists before the flop. Meanwhile, the more you defend your blinds (or 3-bet out of position!), the more you will be playing in deep-stack situations out of position, situations which by default have little upside and a lot of downside. Instead, what you need to do is sit tight in the blinds, but unleash fury on the blinds when in position yourself. PLO Tip: Don’t start defending your blinds liberally. Deep-stack ante games will be covered towards the end of each of the walkthrough chapters in this book.
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Part III: Opening Fire on the Blinds The most basic element of LAG play.
Opening fire on the blinds is the most basic element of LAG play. Part III: Opening Fire on the Blinds, deals with situations in which you will open with a raise and have the positional advantage after the flop. Most of these hands are from the button or cutoff seat, whether playing three- to six-handed, while some are from the hijack seat or UTG in five- or six-handed play. A few of the hands are contrasting examples where open-limping and playing Small Ball may be the better option. Note that situations in which you open with a raise and wind up playing out of position after the flop are covered in Part V: Playing Out of Position.
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Hand #1:$50 Delayed Semi-Bluff Float Free The game: $ 2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($521.20) open with a raise to $14, and only the small blind ($400) calls. A standard open with a premium-class hand from the button.
Flop ($32): My opponent bets $24. I call. A standard/semi-standard float. In a heads-up pot, the first bet is always suspect. There’s no rule that says you have to float here, and you probably should avoid always floating here. That said, I expect my opponent to have air here much of the time, unless he is an utterly complete nit. Moreover, I think my opponent is more likely to attempt to check-call with an overpair, or check-call or check-raise with trips-or-better, so his bet here seems particularly fishy. In addition, if my opponent is in fact betting light -- say with either a medium pair or air -- then I should have either the best hand and/or a fistful of overcard outs. I’ll take one off and see what happens on the turn.
Turn ($80): My opponent checks. This is an interesting card in that I picked up the nut flush draw to go with my overcards. I could go ahead and bet here and attempt to pick up the pot, but having picked up the flush draw, I’m going to do something more circumspect and go ahead and check and take the free card. Action: I check. This is, in effect, a sort of pot-control check -- by doing so, I am essentially dictating that there will be one bet or less left in the hand. The plan is to call virtually any bet if I improve (i.e. I pair up or make a flush), fold (or raise depending on how I feel) to a bet unimproved, and bet unimproved if my opponent checks the river. I will most likely check down if I pair up and my opponent checks, though I will leave the option open to put in a value bet if I do in fact pair up and/ or make the flush. Note that the action I’ve taken thus far is consistent with the way I might play A-A-x-x, which is one of the main reasons why checking behind on the turn works.
River ($80): My opponent checks. I bet $44 and my opponent folds.
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Hand #2:$50 Top Pair Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($439.20) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($583.30) calls. This is a standard open with a premium-class rundown hand.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I check. I could have gone either way with this hand. I chose the pot-control check.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. I picked up an open-ended straight draw. That said, in the face of two checks, the coast appears clear for a bet. Action: I bet $30 and my opponent folds.
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Hand #3:$50 Getting 3-Bet, Nut Gutshot and Nut Flush Draw Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($651) open with a raise to $14. A standard open from the button with a more marginal, Small-Ball type hand. Action: The small blind ($400) re-raises to $46, and the big blind ($599.80) calls. I’m not folding on the button for one more bet. Action: I call.
Flop ($138): I have the nut flush draw and a nut gutter. Action: The small blind bets $100, and the big blind folds. I am not going anywhere, and in a low-SPR situation, if I intend to play, I should shove and give my opponent a chance to fold. Action: I raise and set the small blind all-in for $354 total, and he calls, showing A♠ Q♣ J♠ 8♠ for top two pair. Sometimes he has air in this spot, sometimes he doesn’t. Either way, I could not be in bad shape regardless of his holding. As it is, I have 44% equity, which is dead on for a low-SPR situation of 4, but well over par equity in this SPR 2.6 situation.
Turn ($846):
River ($846): I win. Hand #4: Double Barrel, Ace-High Flop The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($402.80) calls. This is a loose open from the hijack. With loose players behind me, K-8-7-5 with a suit would probably be a fold.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I bet $20, and my opponent calls.
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Free $50 Astandard c-bet on a board in which I have no hand, no draw, and little-to-no chance to improve.
Turn ($70): My opponent checks. Now I have a real decision to make. I basically am not winning this hand if I check. The question is whether or not I can make my opponent fold to a bet, which in turn depends on whether or not he is on the draw. A lot of times, players will check-call with a bare A-x-x-x or maybe A-3-x-x for top-and-bottom two pair -- and sometimes even A-Q-x-x or Q-Q-x-x or 3-3-xx on this flop. That said, this type of opponent may be willing to give up the small pot to a legitimate second barrel in the face of possibly having to call a third bet on the river with a marginal hand. And if my opponent is instead on the draw -- perhaps with some kind of combo flush/straight draw -- he might call the turn, but check-fold the river if he misses, a sequence that generally favors the player firing away (me). Action: I bet $70 and my opponent folds.
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Hand #5:$50 Triple Barrel, Ace-High Flop Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($400) raise to $14, and only the big blind ($543) calls. Standard.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I bet $18, and my opponent calls. Standard. No hand, no draw, acehigh flop -- just like the previous hand.
Turn ($66): My opponent checks. I bet $66, and my opponent calls. As before, roughly a two-thirds pot c-bet followed by a pot-sized follow through -- only this time I got called.
River ($198): My opponent checks. Now is not the time to stop firing. Action: I bet $120, and my opponent tanks and calls, showing 9♣ 4♥ 3♠ 2♥ for bottom two pair. Sometimes, they don’t give up.
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Hand #6:$50 Trip Aces Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($432) raise to $14, and only the big blind ($695) -- the same opponent from the previous hand -- calls. This is an OK open. I have a suited ace with some high and low straight potential.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I check. A pot-control check with dry over trips, and little in the way of improvers. This is a small-pot hand.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. I should bet now. Action: I bet $20, and my opponent folds.
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Hand #7:$50 Top Pair Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($405.50) raise to $14, and only the big blind ($826.10) -- the same opponent from the previous two hands -- calls. An OK open with a marginal hand from the cutoff. I got the action I wanted -- heads up against the blinds.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I shouldn’t check every top pair. That said, this hand is a good one to bet, as it is easily outdrawn. I would be more comfortable checking A-J-T-9 than J-T9-3. Action: I bet $30, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($90): My opponent checks. Having bet the flop, I must continue to bet -- turning top two pair is a bonus. Action: I bet $90, and my opponent calls.
River ($270): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down, but little more. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♣ K♣ 9♥ 7♣ for a pair of nines and a busted flush draw. I win. Hand #8: A-A-x-x The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($509.80) open with a raise to $14. It gets folded to the small blind ($1,289.80), who calls. The big blind ($449.30) re-raises to $56. I should 4-bet here with my double-suited aces. Not only do I have position, but if I raise the full pot to $182, there will be at least $378 in the pot if I get called, and thus less than one pot-sized bet left to play, given my $509.80 stack. Action: I re-raise to $182. The small blind folds. The big blind calls.
Flop ($378):
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This is a great flop for me, giving me the nut flush draw with an overpair. Free $50 Action: My opponent checks. I bet $327.80 all-in, and my opponent calls all-in for $267.30, showing J♥ T♣ 9♥ 8♠ for a pair of tens. I am a 76%/24% favorite.
Turn ($912.60):
River ($912.60): Figures. Hand #9: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($440.50) open with a raise to $14. The small blind ($283.80) re-raises to $44, and the big blind folds. This is mostly standard. I could have limped in with this hand as well, but once I raise and get re-raised, I am not going anywhere when I have position. Action: I call.
Flop ($92): My opponent checks. I have to take at least one shot at this. Action: I bet $92, and my opponent folds. Hand #10: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $14. The button folds. The small blind ($396) re-raises to $46, and the big blind folds. I call. Standard. I am not raising and then folding for one bet when I have position. Worrying about pre-flop domination in heads-up pots is way overrated.
Flop ($96): My opponent checks. We have a low-SPR situation (SPR 3.6). That said, Pump-and-Shove goes both ways: The play here is to bet my top pair plus gutshot and commit if Free $50 raised.
Free $50
Action: I bet $96, and my opponent folds. Hand #11: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Flopping Top Pair The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
The small blind is the same opponent from the previous hand. Pre-flop: I ($442) open with a raise to $14. The button folds. The small blind ($408) re-raises to $46, and the big blind folds. I call. I don’t see why I would do any different this time.
Flop ($96): My opponent bets $88. Again, a low-SPR situation (SPR 3.8). The play is to shove top pair. Action: I raise to $360, and my opponent folds.
Free $50
Hand #12: Gutshot, Second-Nut Flush Draw Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($400) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($554) calls. This is a bit on the looser side. It’s not on the recommended list, but I am double-suited. I thought I’d give it a shot. Incidentally, my opponent is the same player from the previous two hands.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I have a nut gutshot and king-high diamonds. I might bet against some of my weaker opponents, but the standard play should be to check and take the free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($30): My opponent bets $30. I call. This is a stopping call, the kind which you make on principle. I don’t have so much draw that I have to call -- I don’t even have the nut flush draw -- but the looser I call (or the looser I appear to call), the less likely my opponent is to take stabs in the future when I check the flop, as he knows he will always have to make more than one bet to steal, thus making it more risky for him to try to steal on me.
River ($90): My opponent bets $40. I fold. The flip side is that I don’t give up many pots, and sometimes it looks good to give one up here and there so that my opponents don’t think that I never have it. Hand #13: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($413) open with a raise to $14. The small blind ($453.85) re-raises to $43.45, and the big blind folds. I call. Standard open, standard call.
Flop ($90.90): My opponent bets $38.45. I fold. I can’t float them all, and like I said before, sometimes I have to fold just to make it look good. This one is OK to give up, as I have no nut outs.
Free $50
Free $50 Hand #14: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($453) open with a raise to $14. The button ($627.85) calls. The small blind ($160) re-raises to $60, and the big blind folds. I call, but the button folds. These small blinds never give up. This worked out in that now I have the button.
Flop ($138): My opponent bets $100 all-in. I have trip queens. Action: I call. My opponent shows K♦ 6♦ 3♠ 2♠. I’d like to see whatever book these guys are reading.
Turn ($338):
River ($338): I win. Hand #15: Check Down on Flush Board The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($517.30) open with raise to $14, and only the big blind ($162) calls.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I check. Flush flops are easy c-bet boards, but also easy check-raise bluff boards. That said, I have some potential value in a 13-card wrap. I could have gone either way here.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. I check. I picked up a pair, and some additional straight outs.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($30): My opponent checks. I made the straight. I can show this down. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♥ T♥ 9♦ 7♣ for two pair, and I win with the straight.
Free $50
Hand #16: J-J-x-x, The Betting Machine Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($644.60) limp in UTG, and the button folds. The small blind ($254) limps in, and the big blind ($362) checks. I’ve raised with a lot of marginal hands thus far, but dry pairs is where I really draw the line. This hand is basically a limp-or-fold in this spot -- a limp if the player behind me is passive, but a fold if he is a maniac.
Flop ($12): Both blinds check. I bet $12, and the small blind folds. The big blind calls. I took a stab at the ace-high flop and got called.
Turn ($36): My opponent checks. I am probably not going to win the hand if I check, while my opponent might fold a weak ace to a second barrel. Action: I bet $36, and my opponent folds. The Betting Machine.
Free $50
Hand #17: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Floating Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($410) open with a raise to $14. The small blind ($630.50) re-raises to $24, and the big blind folds. I call. I’ve never raised with this hand before.
Flop ($52): My opponent bets $24. I call. A weak-stab float with the pair of sevens and backdoor nut hearts and straight potential.
Turn ($100): My opponent checks. I bet $100. My opponent raises to $400, setting me all-in. I fold. Just a friendly reminder that floating does not always work, as sometimes you run into the bet-flop/check-raise turn sequence.
Free $50
Hand #18: Getting 3-Bet, Facing a Token C-Bet on a Paired Board Flop Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($1,268.50) open with a raise to $14. This is a loose raise from the cutoff. The button needs to be tight. Action: The button ($334) and small blind ($150.80) both call. The big blind ($522.15) re-raises to $70. I call, but the other two players both fold. It’s possible I could have folded to the 3-bet with a player behind me. But it worked out for the best, as now I am heads up with the positional advantage.
Flop ($168): My opponent bets $32. I gotta say that I really like that token c-bet, because it is much harder to float the token bet on the paired board than it is to float a more legitimate bet of around half to two-thirds of the pot. Because now if I call here, it’s almost as if no action occurred, as my call is meaningless. If I want to win this pot against what is likely A-A-x-x, I have to put in a raise, which is riskier when I figure to get called at least once. And then my only play is to hope my opponent check-folds the turn. Basically, my opponent’s token bet makes it riskier to bluff-raise him, as in order for me to be successful I have to assume a parlay -- that my opponent will call the raise but then check-fold the turn to a second barrel -- which heightens the risk profile of the play. Action: I fold.
Free $50
Hand #19: Top Pair, Top Two Pair Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($1,168.30) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($536.30) calls.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I check. I chose to check back top pair this time. I could have gone either way.
Turn ($30): My opponent bets $30. I call. A standard pot-control stopping call with top two pair.
River ($90): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♣ J♥ 9♦ 7♣, having flopped two pair. I win with the new top two.
Free $50
Hand #20: Bottom Two Pair on Straight Flop, Combo Float Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($809.80) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($560.70) calls.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. If I bet, I am going to have a tough time getting action from a hand worse than bottom two pair with a sucker gutshot. I think I am better off checking behind. Action: I check.
Turn ($30): My opponent bets $24. A possible steal bet. So far, all my opponent has seen me do is check behind the flop. The turn didn’t change much, though it did make another possible straight. This is an interesting spot in that it requires some flexible thinking. I mean, I might have the best hand. But then again, I might not. And if I don’t, there are two possible flush draws that I could represent, or the board could pair and I can either fill up or simply act like I did. Action: I call.
River ($78): My opponent checks. The situation is a bit clearer. If my opponent has anything whatsoever, it probably beats me. At the same time, the board paired and flushed up as well.The safe play is to bet. Action: I bet $52 and my opponent folds. Hand #21: Middle Set on Straight and Flush Board The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($615.70) open with a raise to $14. The button folds. The small blind ($693.20) re-raises to $30. The big blind folds. I call. Standard. I’m not 4-betting here just to pray my opponent doesn’t have A-A-x-x.
Flop ($64): My opponent bets $24. I can’t fold middle set in this spot, and raising is wrong where I could be blowing myself out of the pot should I get re-raised.
Free $50
Action: I call. Free $50
Turn ($112): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check. There is little value in betting.
River ($112): My opponent bets $21. Ooh. I hate that. It looks like a token value-bet or a blocking bet, which probably means that I am beat. There’s an outside chance that it is two pair -- which I can beat -- but I should probably fold. Action: I call. My opponent shows Q♠ J♠ T♣ 9♣ for a straight. I had to see it. $21 was my price. Hand #22: Getting 3-Bet, Top-and-Bottom Two Pair, Low-SPR The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($1,009) open with a raise to $14. The small blind ($271) -- a maniacal 3-bettor -- re-raises to $46. The big blind folds. I call. Standard raise, standard call.
Flop ($96): My opponent bets $96. I have a decision to make. I have top-and-bottom two pair without much in the way of improvers, and it is a low-SPR (SPR 2.3) situation. I feel like in this spot, unless my opponent has to have A-A-x-x, then I have to go with it. He is far from a nit, so… Action: I raise and set my opponent all-in for $225 total. My opponent calls. My opponent shows 8♥ 7♠ 6♣ 4♠ for bottom two pair and a gutshot.
Turn ($546): I win.
River ($546): Hand #23 Small Ball, Flop Wheel and Flush Draw The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me. I ($1,308.60) limp in. The small blind folds. The big blind ($345.25) checks. My hand’s not even really playable. I kind of just wanted to see a flop. That said, rather than bloat the pot with a raise, I chose to limp in and play Small Ball.
Flop ($10): Bingo. The nut straight with a gutshot improver and a straight flush draw. Action: My opponent bets $10. There’s no slow-playing this. The play is to raise and try to freeroll my opponent if he has the wheel, or to get him to pay up with whatever he has if he doesn’t. Action: I raise to $40, and my opponent folds. Maybe next time. Hand #24: Check Down The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($560.70) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($160) calls. With a suited ace and 13-card nut wrap potential, this kind of hand is an acceptable open from two off the button.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I check. I generally should go ahead and bet this without much in the way of improvers.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check. At this point, the hand is basically a one-street affair.
River ($30): My opponent checks. This would be a thin value bet. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♥ 9♥ 8♦ 7♥ for air, and I win. Hand #25: The Nuts with Re-Draws
Free $50
The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed Free $50 My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($598) open with a raise to $14, and both the small blind ($400) and big blind ($602.80) call.
Flop ($42): Jackpot. The nut straight with a flush re-draw, right out of Chapter 1, Book One. Action: Both opponents check. I bet $32, and only the small blind calls. Well, I wasn’t checking it.
Turn ($106): My opponent checks. I bet $106, and my opponent folds. You might notice my bet pattern here, which is that I am OK c-betting less than the size of the pot at times on highly polarized flops -- flops where I basically either have a strong hand or I have nothing to put in a c-bet -- but if I get called, I am back to betting the full pot on the turn. Hand #26: Small Ball, Value-Betting the River The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) limp in on the button. The small blind ($1,112.20) limps in, and the big blind ($1,317.75) checks. 5-4-3-2 with a suit is another hand that is typically unplayable, but I felt like playing it three-handed on the button. That said, rather than bloat the pot with a raise, my preference is to limp in and play a small pot.
Flop ($12): Sometimes you get really lucky and flop something decent. I have bottom pair with a wheel wrap and a straight flush draw. Action: The small blind checks. The big blind bets $12. I call, and the small blind calls. I’m not sure why I didn’t raise, which I probably would do in this spot about 9 times out of 10. I guess I might have been concerned about running into a Broadway wrap with a bigger flush draw, or something like that.
Turn ($48): Bingo. I have the nut straight with two pair and a flush redraw. Ram and jam. Action: Both opponents check.
Free $50
Typical. Free $50 Action: I bet $48. The small blind calls. The big blind folds.
River ($144): My opponent checks. The Broadway wrap card hit. That said, I still think this is a good value-betting opportunity, where my opponent can call with something like two pair or a set. My hand is still fairly well disguised given all of the possibilities on the flop. The play is to bet and fold to a raise. Action: I bet $106, and my opponent calls with K♥ 5♦ 5♥ 4♠ for a set of fives. Hand #27: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($655) open with a raise to $14. The small blind ($878.20) re-raises to $24, and the big blind folds. I call. This is a loose open; I am double-suited with two hold’em hands. Again, not on the recommended list, but I don’t mind trying to expand my horizons.
Flop ($52): My opponent checks. I bet $52, and my opponent calls. I flopped top two pair.
Turn ($156): My opponent checks. This is a tough choice here, given that the flush card hit. I would be more likely to bet with one pair, or basically anything with no outs. That said, I think two pair for a full house draw dictates taking the free card. Action: I check.
River ($156): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows A♠ A♥ Q♥ 7♦ for aces up. If I had known he had that, I would have bet the turn. Unfortunately, I don’t get to see my opponent’s cards. Hand #28: Bottom Two Pair The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($789.10) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($1,241.75) calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I have bottom two pair without much in the way of improvers. This should be bet. Action: I bet $30 and my opponent folds. Hand #29: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $14. The small blind folds. The big blind ($413) re-raises to $44, and I call. This is fairly standard, though I could just as easily have limped in with this speculative wrap hand from the button.
Flop ($90): My opponent checks. I have bottom pair and a flush draw in a low-SPR situation. My problem with betting is that I would likely have to fold to a raise, where my flush draw may have value if I check. Action: I check.
Turn ($90): My opponent checks. I check. Ditto.
River ($90): My opponent bets $90. I fold. It sucks checking two streets and then having to fold to a bet on the river, but you can’t win them all. Hand #30: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($444.30) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($656.80) calls. Standard. I prefer a suited ace to open UTG five-handed, but I am OK with this hand if I can consistently get this result.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. This is kind of a tricky spot. I have top two pair, which is likely the best hand, and I also have the nut spade blocker. The problem with betting is that I am unlikely to get called by a worse hand, whereas I may be able to induce a bluff later in the hand if I check. The plus side to betting is that I am unlikely to get check-raised by an actual flush, considering that I have the nut spade card myself. Action: I check.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. Well, I can go ahead and put in a bet and maybe show down the river unimproved, if called. Action: I bet $20, and my opponent folds. Hand #31: Nut Flush Draw, Check Down The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($1,106.70) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($1,340.40) calls. This is an OK open UTG four-handed with the suited ace and connectors.
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. The standard play with the bare nut flush draw is to check. Action: I check.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. I am still in checking mode. Action: I check.
River ($30): My opponent checks. I have enough hand to show down with my two pair. Action: I check. My opponent shows Q♣ 8♦ 7♣ 2♦ for a pair of queens, and I win.
Free $50
Hand #32: Flush Draw, Double-Nut Gutter Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($549.70) open with a raise to $14, and only the big blind ($824.30) calls. This is a little looser open from the hijack. I am double-suited, though!
Flop ($30): My opponent checks. I have the third-nut flush draw, but a double-nut gutshot straight draw to go with it. I can probably stand a check-raise. This must be bet. Action: I bet $30 and my opponent calls. That’s fine.
Turn ($90): My opponent checks. I bet $60 and my opponent folds. The Betting Machine. Hand #33: Checking Top Pair, Combo Float The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($179.05) open with a raise to $1.75. Only the big blind ($52.95) calls.
Flop ($3.75): My opponent checks. I have top pair with some overcard two-pair draws, and a backdoor nut heart draw. I could go either way. Action: I check.
Turn ($3.75): My opponent bets $3. This is interesting. I now have middle pair with a gutshot, heads up with the positional advantage, facing a possible weak stab steal bet. Perhaps a combo float is in order? Action: I call.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($9.75): My opponent checks. I have the dry K♣ blocker against the nut flush, but I also have two pair now to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♠ J♥ J♦ 8♥. I win. Hand #34: Check Down The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($50.20) open with a raise to $1.75, and only the big blind ($54.50) calls. This is an OK open from the button and the cutoff, but probably a loose raise from the hijack. It worked out OK in this hand, but if you are playing with loose players behind you who are liable to call your raise, then you are better off limping in or folding than raising.
Flop ($3.75): My opponent checks. I could go either way here. That said, there are a lot of cards that can bring legitimate help on the turn, including any heart, any king, queen, jack, ten, or eight. This is as good a spot as any to take the free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($3.75): My opponent checks. I picked up a heart draw to go with my overcards. Action: I check.
River ($3.75): My opponent checks. I paired up, but value-betting doesn’t seem like a strong proposition, where I am unlikely to get called by a worse hand, and at the same time if my opponent actually has a king and calls a bet, I am liable to get outkicked. Checking and showing down is the play. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♣ 7♥ 6♣ 4♥ and I win. Hand #35: Nut Flush Draw, One Pair, Two Pair The game: $0.25-$0.50 online, five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The first two players fold. I ($53.50) open with a raise to $1.75, and only the small blind ($27.50) calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($4): My opponent checks. The standard play is to check back the bare nut flush draw. Action: I check.
Turn ($4): My opponent bets $4. I made top pair. I can’t fold here for one bet, particularly when I have the nut flush draw as well.
River ($12): My opponent bets $12. I made top two pair, and really what this comes down to is that I either believe my opponent or I don’t. Basically, he either has the straight or he doesn’t, because I would expect that my opponent would be more likely to check something like two pair or a set, and probably even a non-nut straight as well. I have reasonable doubt, and so I can’t fold top two pair in this sequence. Action: I call, and my opponent shows A♦ A♠ A♣ Q♦ for a pair of aces. Hand #36: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($54.65) open with a raise to $1.75. The small blind folds. The big blind ($52.55) re-raises to $5.50. I call.
Flop ($11.25): My opponent checks. I have middle pair and a nut gutshot on a board with a possible straight on it. There’s little value in betting this, as I don’t rate to get action from a hand/draw worse than mine. At the same time, I have enough hand and draw that I don’t necessarily need to bet as a bluff, unless I think my opponent has to have A-Ax-x here. I could probably go either way here. Action: I check.
Turn ($11.25): My opponent checks. I check. Ditto.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($11.25): My opponent bets $7.50. This is a judgment call. I have a hard time folding for one bet, particularly given the lack of action. I can beat a bluff, and I have to figure my opponent would check and try to show down if he had a king or a smaller pair. He could be value-betting A-A-x-x, or there is a remote possibility that he filled up. But there is enough doubt in my mind that I have to call. Action: I call. My opponent shows 5♦ 5♠ 3♦ 2♠. I win. Hand #37: QQ66 Blocker Bluff Raise The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($100.35) open with a raise to $3.50. Both the small blind ($74.25) and big blind ($67.45) call. I like these double-paired hands.
Flop ($10.50): The small blind checks. The big blind bets $10.50. I have an overpair and blockers to the straight. I could fold. I could call (float). Or… Action: I raise to $42, and both opponents fold. All standard, really. Hand #38: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Top Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($234.05) open with a raise to $3.50. J-9-8-6 with a suit is a good enough open, again, assuming the players behind me are tight enough to let me play with the blinds. Otherwise, I might be better off limping in (if the players behind me are loose but passive), or folding (if they are aggressive). Action: It gets folded around to the big blind ($192.80), who reraises to $11. I call. Standard.
Flop ($22.50): My opponent checks. I check. With middling cards in my hand, this hand probably should have been bet, because now any overcards are liable to beat me. When you have A-K-Q-J, on the other hand, there are no overcards.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($22.50): My opponent checks. There’s nothing ambiguous about top two pair with a flush draw in position against two checks. Action: I bet $22.50, and my opponent folds. Hand #39: AAKTds, Check Down The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($100) open with a raise to $3.50, and only the small blind ($134.80) calls. A no-brainer open with premium aces.
Flop ($8): My opponent checks. I check. Apot-control check with an overpair and nut gutshot on a straight board.
Turn ($8): My opponent checks. I check. Ditto. Ideally, I’d like to show this hand down unimproved.
River ($8): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows Q♥ 8♠ 7♦ 3♥ for a pair of queens. I win. Hand #40: Double Combo Float, Bluff Raise The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($100) open with a raise to $3.50, and only the big blind ($123.55) calls.
Flop ($7.50): My opponent bets $5. I have top pair and an open-ended straight draw against a possible weak stab steal. That said, in a virtual high-SPR situation with an SPR near 13, I am hesitant to put in a raise and risk getting re-raised off my draw.
Free $50
Free $50 Action: I call.
Turn ($17.50): My opponent bets $9. Well, I could raise. But now I also have two pair. I am conflicted, but I prefer to smooth call and play bluff catcher for the moment. Action: I call.
River ($35.50): My opponent bets $15. Now my two pair has been counterfeited, and I can no longer beat a hand like A-A-x-x or A-T-x-x. Meanwhile, I didn’t give my opponent credit for much of hand before; nor do I now. Action: I raise to $64. My opponent folds. Hand #41: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff posts $1 blind and a dead $0.50 small blind. I ($100) open with a raise to $5. It gets folded to the small blind ($171.05), who reraises to $15. The big blind folds. I call. Standard open with a premium rundown, and standard call of the 3-bet.
Flop ($32.50): My opponent checks. I have top pair and a flush draw with a nut gutshot. I like betting just because I like betting when my opponent checks, but the overwhelming consideration here is that it is a low-SPR situation (SPR 2.6), and I have enough hand that I am pot committed when I bet. Action: I bet $32.50 and my opponent folds. Hand #42: Jacks Up, Overfull The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($369.55) open with a raise to $3.50. Only the small blind ($147.40) calls. Standard.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($8): My opponent checks. I check. Standard pot-control check with jacks up. In these kinds of spots, I don’t rate to get much action from hands worse than mine if I bet, and I don’t want to get check-raised and have to guess how good my hand is. The no frills checking approach is often best.
Turn ($8): Jackpot. Action: My opponent bets $4. Obviously, I am not folding. The question is whether or not I call and try to trap, or whether I should raise and try to get as much money into the pot as possible. And the clear answer is that I need to raise here and hope my opponent has at least a six and try to play for stacks if possible. Another alternative outcome is that if my opponent has nothing, he may read my raise as a bluff and play back. Action: I raise to $15. My opponent calls. Very promising.
River($38): My opponent checks. I bet $38. My opponent calls with A♦ 7♣ 4♦ 4♠ for the underfull. I’d say the flop check worked out pretty well. Hand #43: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($107.40) open with a raise to $3.50. It gets folded to the big blind ($134.20), who re-raises to $11. I call. Fairly standard, if on the looser side for the open-raise. I’m not folding to the 3-bet in position, however.
Flop ($22.50): My opponent bets $22.50. I flopped bottom pair with an openended straight draw. I could easily fold here, unless I think my opponent doesn’t have trips-or-better and may fold to a raise. Action: I raise to $90. My opponent re-raises and sets me all-in for $96.40 total. I call. My opponent shows A♠ A♣ 5♦ 3♦ for aces up. I thought it was worth a shot, anyway.
Free $50
Turn ($215.30): Free $50
River ($215.30): Hand #44: Combo Float The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($167) open with a raise to $3.50. Only the small blind ($390.30) calls. I’d prefer the ace to be suited, but this is good enough to open from the cutoff.
Flop ($8): My opponent bets $4. I call. This is a sort of combo float with bottom two pair and a nut gutshot straight draw, heads up with the positional advantage against a weak stab c-bet.
Turn ($16): My opponent checks. I bet $10. My opponent calls. I bet as planned, but I got called. I have to figure I am beat here.
River ($36): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows J♦ T♣ 9♠ 4♥ for a smaller two pair. I win. That’s not what I expected to see, but I’ll take it. Hand #45: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Floating The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($126.05) open with a raise to $3.50. The small blind ($213.40) re-raises to $12. The big blind folds. I call. Standard.
Flop ($25): My opponent bets $12. I call.
Free $50
Float. Free $50
Turn ($49): My opponent checks. I bet $32. My opponent folds. Standard. Hand #46: Top Pair, Open-Ended Straight Draw on Paired Board The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The first two players fold. I ($259.80) open with a raise to $3.50, and only the small blind ($273.95) calls. Standard.
Flop ($8): My opponent checks. I check. I have top pair with an openended straight draw. I think most opponents would fold most hands here to a bet, which probably in itself dictates that a bet is in order. But I thought I’d try something new while keeping the pot small.
Turn ($8): My opponent checks. Well, I can’t check this now because I am losing to any pair or A-T-high. I can faithfully represent A-A-x-x here, and use leverage -- the threat of a river bet - to encourage a fold. Action: I bet $4 and my opponent folds. Hand #47: Overtrips The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: Both players fold in front of me. I ($146.85) open with a raise to $3.50. The button folds, but the small blind ($92.55) and big blind ($100) both call. A-J-8-6ds1 is not a real premium hand as far as premium hands go in PLO, but it is way more than enough to open fire on the blinds.
Flop ($10.50): Both blinds check. Overtrips with a handful of overcard kickers (overcards to the three on the board, that is) should definitely be bet. You want to bet your strong hands in order to build the pot for value.
Free $50
Free $50 Action: I bet $7. The small blind folds, but the big blind calls.
Turn ($24.50): My opponent checks. I check. This is a pot-control check. I am unlikely to get more than one more bet if my opponent has an overpair, and if my opponent has trips or better than I am either going to get check-raised (if my opponent has 8-7-x-x, or maybe less) which I may not be able to stand depending on the size of the raise, or I may be unlikely to get more than one bet of value if my opponent does have trips but with a smaller kicker. Moreover, I did not improve, and the 7 appearing on the turn means that I am less likely to improve and win, because if my opponent has 8-7-x-x, then a six is not an out. On another day, I might have bet again. 1 “ds” is standard notation for double-suited.
River ($24.50): My opponent checks. I bet $12. My opponent calls with T♥ T♠ 6♣ 2♣ for tens up. I win. As intended. Hand #48: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me. I ($178.45) open with a raise to $4.50. The small blind ($113.90) re-raises to $11.50. The big blind folds. I call. By now, it should be apparent that my play here is standard.
Flop ($24): My opponent bets $15. I call. I have top-and-bottom two pair and position against a possible weak stab c-bet on a board with a possible straight on it, and in a virtual low-SPR situation (SPR ~ 4). Raising is not correct, because I lose my opponent when he is c-betting air and I am not bluffing out anything. My view is that my opponent either has Q-J-x-x for the straight, A-Ax-x for top set, or perhaps air like 9-8-7-6ds. That said, I don’t necessarily believe him for one possible weak-stab c-bet heads up. But again, raising is not the play, and so if I am not folding, I am calling.
Turn ($54): My opponent checks. The T♦ is either a real sweet card, or the card that will cost me a chunk of my stack. Because now I have the underfull, which beats a straight if my opponent had one, but loses to A-A-x-x. Now if I give my opponent credit for Q-J-x-x, I am probably not getting more than one bet out of him. And if he instead has air, then it does me no good to bet and have him fold, when he may take a stab at the river. And then in the case that my opponent actually has A-A-x-x for the overfull, I am better off checking here and calling a bet on the river than betting and giving my opponent a wide variety of options to try to get more money in the pot. Action: I check.
Free $50
Free $50
River($54): My opponent checks. I bet $15. My opponent folds. Hand #49: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($197.10) open with a raise to $3.50. This is basically the bottom of my range. Action: The small blind ($105.70) re-raises to $11.50. The big blind folds. I call. And of course I am not folding to a 3-bet when I get to play heads up with the positional advantage.
Flop ($24): My opponent bets $24. I have middle pair and a gutshot in a low-SPR situation (SPR ~ 4), which is basically a shove-or-fold situation. It’s probably a marginal decision either way, but I prefer to have top pair or better to shove when the SPR is 4. Action: I fold. Having said that, I kind of wish I went ahead and shoved. Hand #50: Middle Set, Low SPR Against a 3-Bet Pre-flop The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($117.50) open with a raise to $3.50. The small blind ($89) re-raises to $11.50. The big blind folds. I call. Standard. I have a near-premium-class hand, and with the positional advantage. I don’t necessarily mind getting 3-bet, but I don’t want to 4-bet because getting 5-bet would be a disaster where I would likely be getting smoked by A-A-x-x, and where if I 4-bet and get called I would be negating my positional advantage by creating a low, low-SPR situation.
Flop ($24): My opponent bets $24. I have middle set in a low-SPR situation (SPR < 4) against an opponent who 3-bet pre-flop from out-of-position. The situation is basic: I can fold if I believe my opponent has to have A-A-x-x; or if I choose to continue, I am essentially pot-committed, as I am not calling one bet and folding. Because even if the board flushed or straightened on the turn and my opponent bets, I still have 10 outs to a full house draw, and my opponent is likely to follow through on the turn pretty much no matter what, whether he has two pair, or a straight or flush draw (meaning that combined with my outs, I should still have the best hand often enough on the turn to make calling correct no matter what). That said, the first question is whether or not my opponent has to have A-A-x-x to 3-bet pre-flop, and in the age of online instructional poker videos -- and from many of the examples we’ve seen so far in this book -- I would say most players these days who 3-bet from out of the blinds are capable of doing so Free $50 without A-A-x-x.
Free $50
So let’s say I decide to go with it. Technically, this is shove-or-fold territory, though this (flopping a set in a low-SPR situation) is an exception to the rule. Now as I’ve just explained, I am still basically pot-committed, but rather than just shoving all-in here, I can call the flop and commit on the turn whether or not my opponent bets and regardless of what the turn card brings. And I like calling here because if I raise and shove all-in, my opponent will fold if he has air, where he might bet light on the turn if I just call him on the flop. Action: I raise and set my opponent all-in for $77.50 total. OK, so I didn’t call but shoved instead. But in retrospect, I do like calling the flop and committing on the turn here. And we are going to see another similar situation later where calling heads up in a low-SPR situation is correct. Action: My opponent calls.
Turn ($179):
River ($179): My opponent shows A♠ A♥ 6♣ 3♦, having flopped a set of aces. The cost of doing business sometimes. Hand #51: Undertrips The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($486.80) open with a raise to $7, and only the small blind ($1,025.10) calls. K-J-T-8 with a suit is a solid open from the hijack if I can consistently get heads up with blinds, but a loose open with loose players behind me.
Flop ($16): My opponent checks. I check. A pot-control check with undertrips and the open-ended straight draw.
Turn ($16): My opponent checks. Time for a value bet. Action: I bet $8, and my opponent calls.
River ($32): My opponent checks. Having checked the flop, I can safely value bet the river. Action: I bet $20, and my opponent calls, showing A♣ Q♦ 7♣ 2♣ for queens up, ace kicker.
Free $50
Free $50 Mission accomplished with the undertrips, which is generally a two-street hand at best. Hand #52: A-A-x-x The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($477.10) open with a raise to $7. Only the small blind ($159.60) calls. Standard.
Flop ($16): My opponent checks. I check. I could just as easily have bet. That said, there is some pot-control merit to checking. For one thing, I deflect any check-raise attempts, as this is an easy check-raise bluff type board. I do have the dry ace of clubs, which may have some value if a club hits. Plus I have backdoor straight draws as well.
Turn ($16): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check with aces up, and the third club hitting. With aces up, I am not easily outdrawn.
River ($16): My opponent checks. There is little value in betting. I can show this down. Action: I check. My opponent shows J♠ T♦ 8♠ 7♠ for trip sevens. Sometimes you just get beat. This is an outcome you have to deal with in order to play in an overall winning manner. Hand #53: Floating The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($473.10) open with a raise to $7. It gets folded to the big blind ($406.45), who re-raises to $22. I call. Loose open from the cutoff, standard call of the 3-bet in position.
Flop ($45): My opponent bets $30. I call. Float.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($105): My opponent bets $70. This is a tricky spot. Now I have a hand, but am facing a second barrel. I think the most likely hands for my opponent to have here are Q-Q-x-x, Q-8-x-x, or a second barrel of air. I don’t expect him to bet again with A-A-x-x, though bare trip eights is a possibility, as is A-Q-x-x. I have a judgment call to make. My choices here: 1. Fold if I think I am beat, or 2. Call and show down the river if checked to, or otherwise fold to a third bet. Action: I call.
River ($245): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows A♦ A♣ 5♦ 4♠, for aces up. I didn’t expect that, though the fact that he picked up nut diamonds may have encouraged him to bet the turn. Nobody said that floating was risk free! Hand #54: Top Pair, Plus The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), three-handed, one blind My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($532.20) open with a raise to $6. The blind ($337.35) calls.
Flop ($12): My opponent checks. I bet $12. My opponent raises to $28. This is a tricky spot. I have top pair and a nut gutshot with backdoor hearts, and it is not at all clear to me that my opponent isn’t raising in response to my c-bet -- in other words, he might be raising light because he expects me to be c-betting light. Action: I call.
Turn ($68): My opponent bets $40. This bet looks like a weak follow through. Plus I picked up an open-ended straight draw with middle pair. This looks like a good spot to make a play. Action: I raise to $188. My opponent re-raises to $303.35. Whoops. I am virtually pot-committed now. Action: I call.
River ($674.70): My opponent shows 9♣ 8♣ 8♠ 6♠ for a full house.
Free $50
Some players routinely underbet the pot; others don’t. Sometimes you just run into players who have games that appear tailor-made Free $50 sometimes you just get coolered. But then again, I might not have raised the turn had I not picked up a bigger straight draw.
to beat you;
Oh well. Shit happens. Hand #55: Nut Wrap, 3-Betting After the Flop The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to me. I ($195) open with a raise to $7, and both the small blind ($37.50) and big blind ($80) call.
Flop ($21): The small blind bets $6. The big blind raises to $12. I flopped a 13-card nut wrap with backdoor diamonds, in a low-SPR situation facing a weak stab and a weak stab raise. Perhaps I can get them both to fold to a re-raise? Action: I re-raise to $63. The small blind folds. The big blind re-raises all-in to $73. I call. My opponent shows A♠ 8♥ 5♠ 4♠ for a sucker gutter and acehigh. I wonder what game he thinks he’s playing. He does have the best hand, technically, with his ace-high. However, the game does not end on the flop, and I am a 59%/41% favorite to win the hand.
Turn ($173):
River ($173): I win with the bigger straight. Hand #56: Flush Draw The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to me. I ($404.60) open with a raise to $7, and only the small blind ($80) calls. Three middle straight cards with 13-card nut wrap potential, with an overcard kicker. Another one from towards the bottom of my range. I like it.
Flop ($16): My opponent checks. I have a flush draw, with some outside straight help possibilities. I want the free card. Action: I check.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($16): My opponent checks. I check. I probably should have bet this, having hit the middle pair with my opponent checking a second time.
River ($16): My opponent checks. I have something to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows Q♠ J♦ 7♥ 2♠ for a pair of deuces, and I win. Hand #57: Top Pair, Top Two Plus The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($237.85) open with a raise to $7, and only the big blind ($594.50) calls. This is an OK open from the hijack if you have tight players behind you, but in a loose or aggressive game -- or with strong players behind me -- I would prefer to limp in (or maybe even fold, though I don’t remember the last time I folded this hand for one bet!) and keep the pot small and multi-way pre-flop. In a looser game, I would prefer to restrict my raises from here to premium-class hands.
Flop ($15): My opponent checks. I check. Again, I could have gone either way with top pair and a full set of draws to top two pair. But then again, if I had bet and my opponent had folded, then I wouldn’t have anything to write about.
Turn ($15): My opponent bets $7.50. I now have top two pair and a flush draw, and we are in a high-SPR situation with an SPR of 15. The best play is probably to smooth call and play smallpot poker. If I raise here and get called, I am probably not far ahead; and if instead I get re-raised it probably means I am smoked perhaps by a slowplayed Q-Q-x-x. And if instead my opponent has nothing but air, I only gain his bet if I raise, whereas I could possibly earn another bet on the river if I just smooth call. I think in the grand scheme of things, raising here is a mistake. Action: I raise to $37.50. My opponent calls.
River ($90): My opponent checks. A possible straight appeared, and if my opponent was drawing with something legitimate like A-J-T-x for a nut wrap, then he hit it. If instead he was on the flush draw and missed, then there is little value in betting. I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows T♥ T♦ 7♥ 5♥ for a pair of tens. I win.
Free $50
Free $50 Well, I don’t like my opponent’s play, either. He basically had an underpair and a nut open-ended straight draw but without a flush draw. With his hand, I probably fold to the raise on the turn; or, having failed to do that, I would at least have bet the blockers on the river. Hand #58: Heads Up The game: $1-$2 online, heads up My position: Small Blind/Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($293.45) raise to $6. The big blind ($200) calls. Standard open heads up from the SB/Button.
Flop ($12): My opponent checks. I bet $12, and my opponent calls. I’ll give my opponent credit for a queen here.
Turn ($36): My opponent checks. I paired the ace, and picked up a flush draw. I could check and take the free card if I give my opponent credit for 3-5-x-x; but if I bet, I give my opponent a chance to fold a queen -- which has outs against me -- or maybe a smaller two pair. Action: I bet $36 and my opponent calls.
River ($108): My opponent checks. I’m not really sure where I am at, but I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♠ T♣ 4♠ 3♣ for two pair. Well, nice hand. It is what it is. Can’t win them all. Hand #59: Standard The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($275.80) open with a raise to $7. Only the small blind ($151.70) calls. Standard open with a premium hand.
Flop ($16): My opponent checks. I bet $16, and my opponent calls.
Free $50
Free $50 I decided to follow through with a c-bet this time with top pair and overcards.
Turn ($48): My opponent checks. I bet $30, and my opponent calls. Standard follow through with the board pairing and the flush card appearing. Having gotten called, I am pretty much done with the hand.
River ($108): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent has J♦ 5♦ 5♣ 2♠ for a flush. In chess literature, my opponent’s play pre-flop and on the flop would be marked with a “?” for “dubious.” His hand should definitely be folded out of the small blind. I don’t like his call on the flop, either, though I suppose I’ve done worse myself. I’ll give him credit on the turn because he did have the best hand. I suppose he played the river right, too. Hand #60: Overtrips, Heads Up The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), heads up My position: Small Blind/Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($200) raise to $6. My opponent ($254.50) calls.
Flop ($12): My opponent checks. I bet $8, and my opponent calls. Standard. Overtrips should be bet.
Turn ($28): My opponent checks. I check. A pot-control check. The king appearing hurts the strength of my hand, and turns my hand into a one-bet hand. Because if I bet, I am only likely to get more than one street of action if I am up against trips or better, which I am either a small favorite or now a big dog; moreover, my opponent is likely to fold most any hand that does not contain trips, whereas he might be willing to call another bet on the river if I check. The latter case is key, because I think it is most likely that my opponent does not have trips. Had I filled up or an undercard (like a three or a four or a deuce) appeared, I would almost certainly have bet again.
River ($28): My opponent checks. I bet $16, and my opponent folds. I’m not sure what that means -- it might have been something like Q-Q-x-x or J-J-x-x. Hand #61: Top Pair The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed, one blind
Free $50
My position: Button Free $50 My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($601.20) open with a raise to $6. The big blind ($74) calls. This is on the looser side. I am double-suited, though.
Flop ($12): My opponent checks. I have top pair and a nut gutshot with two backdoor flush draws in a low mid-SPR situation (SPR ~ 5.7). I could probably go either way here. The answer I think depends somewhat on my opponent (i.e. How often does he check-raise?), and somewhat on how comfortable I am shoving if I get check-raised. Action: I bet $12, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($36): My opponent checks. I have little reason to believe that card hit my opponent. That said, the play is pretty much to fire away and probably go ahead and go with it if I somehow get check-raised. Action: I bet $36 and my opponent folds. Hand #62: Small Ball The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: Both players in front of me fold. I ($461.90) limp in. The small blind folds. The big blind ($464.95) raises to $7. I call. I didn’t even realize that the hand wasn’t suited at the time, or I might not have played it.
Flop ($15): My opponent checks. With the nut open-ended straight draw, the play is to bet the hand through. Action: I bet $15, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($45): My opponent checks. I bet $45, and my opponent calls.
River ($135): My opponent checks.
Free $50
At this point, my best play is to check and show the hand down. Free $50 Action: I check. My opponent shows Q♠ J♣ T♣ 8♠ for a pair of eights. It’s tough playing out of position, as it causes you to call down with hands like that. Hand #63: K-K Blocker Play The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($200) open with a raise to $7, and only the small blind ($244.95) calls. I don’t typically raise with sub-premium kings (anything other than kings with rundowns or single-gapped rundowns and a suit, as in K-K-Q-J or K-K-Q-T with a suit, or double-paired kings like K-K-Q-Q), but I thought I’d try it this time. I am double-suited with gapped connectors.
Flop ($16): My opponent bets $6. I call. A stopping call/combo float with the overpair and double-sucker gutshot.
Turn ($28): My opponent checks. I have the blockers to the straight. Action: I bet $28, and my opponent calls.
River ($82): My opponent checks. The play is to follow through. Action: I bet $61. My opponent calls, showing 9♠ 8♦ 7♣ 4♣ for a straight. My opponent read my hand perfectly and called the turn bet with the intention of betting the river unimproved. Either that, or he could just be a donkey. Hand #64: AirM The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($200) open with a raise to $7. The button folds. The small blind ($318.85) and big blind ($364.20) both call.
Flop ($21): The small blind checks. The big blind bets $10.50. I fold, and the small blind folds.
Free $50
Free $50 I had to show at least one of these. I didn’t want you think I make a play every time.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Deep Stack Ante Games
The remaining hands in this chapter are from deep-stack ante games ranging from $0.50-$1 with $0.20 antes to $2-$4 blinds with $0.75 antes. Hand #65: Floater The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($509.25) open with a raise to $4.50, and only the big blind ($292) calls. This is definitely on the looser side as far as suited ace hands go. A-5-4-3 is not typically on the playable list, which runs down to A-6-5-4, A-6-5-3, A-6-52, and A-6-4-3. A-5-4-3 cannot physically flop a 13-card nut wrap, or a nut straight with a nut straight re-draw.
Flop ($10.50): My opponent bets $10.50. I call. A semi-bluff float. I flopped the nut flush draw, and hit the pivot wheel wrap card as well.
Turn ($31.50): My opponent checks. I check. The typical play when floating on the flop is to bet when checked to on the turn. The board pairing on the turn presents a tricky scenario, where my opponent is more likely to follow through with a bet with most of his range, but may sometimes check if he has, say, a set and filled up. This time, I chose to take the free card rather than bet.
River ($31.50): My opponent checks. The fact is I can’t win by checking. Action: I bet $18, and my opponent folds. This is in part what the positional advantage does, particularly against weaker opponents. I cannot take credit for making a brilliant play -- I simply made the only play that was available to me. And with position, I had the luxury of having my opponent check the river after checking the turn as well. Hand #66: A-A-x-x The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($200) open with a raise to $4.50, and only the big blind ($1,159.20) calls. I have a suited ace and a wheel card, with another straight possibility as well. This is an OK raise in position. Meanwhile, the presence of the antes pushes the decision towards a raise.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($10.50): My opponent bets $10.50. I can fold for one bet, but I probably shouldn’t. Action: I call.
Turn ($31.50): My opponent bets $31.50. I call. It’s much harder to fold when the board pairs the middle card.
River ($94.50): My opponent bets $47.25. Hmmm. I have a tough choice to make. My opponent should know that I have to have something in order to call on the turn after the board paired. In that case, for my opponent to bet again on the river, I should expect to be beat here. Action: I call. My opponent shows 9♦ 7♦ 6♥ 3♥ for trip sixes. I had to see it, if only for future reference. Hand #67: Delayed Float The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($215) open with a raise to $4.70, and only the small blind ($171.40) calls.
Flop ($11.60): My opponent checks. I check. I flopped a gutshot. Checking is not as weak as it often appears, as I can legitimately represent A-A-x-x later on in the hand on these paired board flops.
Turn ($11.60): My opponent bets $5.80. I call. Semi-bluff float. I picked up the diamond draw. The plan is to check and show down the river if I improve and my opponent checks, or bet if I don’t improve. If my opponent bets again on the river, I’ll have to use judgment to determine the best course of action. This is gray, gray area. There’s nothing wrong with folding. I just don’t like giving up.
River ($23.20): My opponent bets $23.20.
Free $50
So far, I’ve pretty well represented A-A-x-x. That said, my opponent’s pot-sized bet here somewhat polarizes his range between air and something like 9Free $50 9-x-x, 5-5-x-x, and T-T-x-x. Obviously, I have nothing to call him with, as I literally have the worst possible hand (it’s not every day that happens in PLO!). However, I don’t feel strong enough that I am compelled to attempt a bluff raise. Action: I fold. Hand #68: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Semi-Bluff Raise The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($383.80) open with a raise to $4.70. The small blind ($114.10) re-raises to $15, and the big blind folds. I call. Standard.
Flop ($32.20): My opponent bets $19. I flopped the nut gutshot with a flush draw in a low-SPR situation. I could fold here and think nothing of it tomorrow, as my hand could be easily clobbered by a bigger flush draw. Or I could make a play on this possible weak-stab c-bet. Action: I raise to $89.20, and my opponent folds. Note that one of the effects of SPR is that being in a low-SPR situation limits my downside in making this play. In a high-SPR situation (SPR ≥ 13), it would be incorrect to make this raise without the nut flush draw, as I do not have strong enough a hand to withstand a re-raise. That said, in a high-SPR situation, the better option is to smooth call and float, rather than raise on the semi-bluff. Hand #69: A-A-8-7, Backdoor Nut Straight The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($428.95) open with a raise to $4.50, and only the small blind ($218.15) calls.
Flop ($11): My opponent checks. I could go either way here. Action: I bet $11, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($33): My opponent checks. Having picked up the double-nut gutshot to go with my overpair, betting again is the clear best play. Action: I bet $33, and my opponent calls.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($99): My opponent checks. I bet $99, and my opponent calls, showing T♠ 7♥ 4♣ 2♥, having flopped top two pair. Well, he got what he deserved for calling pre-flop from the small blind holding garbage. I’m just lucky I didn’t get check-raised on the flop. Hand #70: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Double Barrel The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($529.80) open with a raise to $4.70. The button folds. The small blind ($215.10) re-raises to $16.30. The big blind folds. I call. This isn’t a real premium hand with the top gap and small pair, but I am open to trying new things.
Flop ($34.80): My opponent checks. I think my sixes need to be bet, as I am too easily outdrawn. Action: I bet $17.50, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($69.80): My opponent checks. Chances are I am beat. That said, I probably cannot win this hand by checking down. I could either give up now, or fire one more shot and see if I can make my opponent fold something like A-A-x-x, K-K-x-x, or J-J-x-x, T-T-x-x, or 9-9-x-x, or maybe even a weak flush. Action: I bet $37, and my opponent folds. Hand #71: Bottom Pair, Open-Ended Straight Draw, Check Down The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($200) open with a raise to $4.30, and only the small blind ($201.95) calls.
Flop ($10.60): My opponent checks. I check. I decided to take the free card with my nut open-ended straight draw. I do have bottom pair to go with it.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($10.60): My opponent checks. I check. Betting here wouldn’t be wrong, either.
River ($10.60): My opponent checks. I have something to show down with my sixes up. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♦ Q♦ 7♣ 4♥. I win. Hand #72: A-A-x-x The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) limp in UTG. Without suits, this is not a premium AA hand. Action: The button folds. The small blind ($404.85) limps in. The big blind ($321.50) checks.
Flop ($7.20): The small blind checks. The big blind bets $7.20. I’ve gotta call at least one bet with my aces up. Action: I call, and the small blind folds.
Turn ($21.60): My opponent bets $21.60. Judgment territory. I could either fold, or call one more bet and try to show down the river. Action: I call.
River ($64.80): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows K♦ T♥ 8♣ 3♠ for trip tens. Could I have folded the turn? Maybe. Am I usually beat there when he bets the pot on the turn? Probably, but I don’t really know. All I know is that I probably would have played his hand differently. Hand #73: The Betting Machine The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button
Free $50
My hand: Free $50
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $8.50, and only the big blind ($272.60) calls. This is basically the bottom of my prescribed range. I might sometimes open limp with this hand on the button as well. That said, the presence of the antes may push this hand towards a raise.
Flop ($19.50): My opponent checks. Bottom two pair should probably be bet. Action: I bet $19.50, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($58.50): My opponent checks. I bet $58.50, and my opponent calls. Standard procedure.
River ($175.50): My opponent checks. I bet $95, and my opponent folds. To tell you the truth, I didn’t realize at the time that I had flopped bottomtwo pair. I actually misread my hand while multi-tabling; at the time, I thought I had just the middle pair. Had I known that I had the two pair, I more likely would have checked and showed down the river rather than followed through. Hand #74: Delayed C-Bet The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($800) open with a raise to $17.75, and only the big blind ($892.75) calls.
Free $50 This is a loose open UTG, five-handed. Stack sizes played a role, however: The two players behind me had $252.70 (the cutoff) and $407 (the button)
stacks, while Free $50the blinds had deeper $937.15 (small blind) and $892.75 (big blind) stacks. Basically, I am playing to play against the blinds. We are 200BBs deep, while the players behind me are fairly unthreatening at about 60BBs to 100BBs deep.
Flop ($41.25): My opponent checks. This is not a bad board to bet at. That said, I flopped a nut wheel draw and backdoor hearts. I could go either way. Action: I check.
Turn ($41.25): My opponent checks. There’s no checking this now. I am unlikely to improve. My play here is to bet and figure out what to do on the river if called. Action: I bet $28, and my opponent folds. Hand #75: A-A-x-x Up The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($918.35) open with a raise to $18.50, and only the big blind ($1,118.35) calls. Standard open with real premium aces.
Flop ($43.50): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check with aces up.
Turn ($43.50): My opponent bets $43.50. I call. Can’t fold for one bet.
River ($130.50): My opponent checks. I can show this down. Action: I check. My opponent shows Q♥ 6♠ 3♥ 3♠ for trip sixes. It’s funny how they always seem to have the trips when they bet the pot on these paired boards and I have A-A-x-x. Maybe it’s a pattern?
Free $50
Hand #76: Check Down Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($1,502.50) open with a raise to $17, and only the big blind ($1,182.60) -- the same opponent from the previous two hands -- calls.
Flop ($39): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check with nut aces up.
Turn ($39): My opponent checks. I check. Ditto now that the diamond hit.
River ($39): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows Q♥ J♥ T♥ 3♠ for air. I win. Hand #77: A-A-x-x Check Down The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me. I ($1,517.30) open with a raise to $17.75, and only the small blind ($367.10) calls. I do have a suit and some straight potential.
Flop ($43.25): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
Turn ($43.25): My opponent checks. I check. I have a gutshot now, too.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($43.25): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows J♦ 8♠ 6♣ 5♥ for two pair. Sometimes you lose these, sometimes you win. The important thing is that you control the hand such that you get to show down the hands you want to show down at the river. Hand #78: Getting 3-Bet, Floating The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I post a $4 blind UTG. I guess I must have been anxious to get into the game and play this hand. Action: I ($800) open with a raise to $17, and the button and small blind fold. The big blind ($600.75) re-raises to $42.45. I call. Standard.
Flop ($89.90): My opponent bets $47.50. I call. Combo float against possible weakstab c-bet.
Turn ($184.90): My opponent checks. I bet $134, and my opponent folds. Standard. Hand #79: Q-Q-x-x, Top Set The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($872.95) limp in on the button. The small blind ($703.70) calls, and the big blind ($422.70) checks. I prefer to limp in and play small pots with sub-premium big pair hands.
Flop ($15.75): The small blind bets $12, and the big blind folds. I’m not the slowplaying type. Action: I raise to $51.75, and the small blind calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($119.25): My opponent checks. I picked up a diamond draw. Not only is it not likely for my opponent to have the nut straight here after checking, but I have enough hand to stand a checkraise with my top set and diamond flush draws. Betting again is the best option. Action: I bet $119.25. My opponent raises to $288. Re-raising is probably gambling at best. Action: I call.
River ($695.25): My opponent bets $359.20 all-in. There’s not a whole lot I can do now. If my opponent doesn’t have a straight, then good bet. Action: I fold. Hand #80: Getting 3-Bet, Floating, Hitting The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($836.25) open with a raise to $17.75. The button folds. The small blind ($847.90) re-raises to $61, and the big blind folds. I call. Loose open, standard call in position.
Flop ($129.75): My opponent bets $104. I call. Float with nut gutshot and backdoor clubs.
Turn ($337.75): Hey, what do you know? Action: My opponent checks. I bet $337.75. My opponent raises and sets me all-in for $670.50 total, or $332.75 more. I call. My opponent shows A♣ K♠ K♥ T♠, drawing dead.
River ($1,678.75): I win. It’s a fair question whether I actually won vs. this opponent in this hand as played out. What I mean is, if we play the sequence a million times with his range vs. mine on this flop, do I win? I think it’s hard to say. What I do feel pretty strongly about is that my opponent overplayed his kings -- I think if he plays this sequence (3-bet OOPpre-flop, bet flop, check-raise turn) with this hand against the universe of opponents who took my line (float flop, bet turn), my opponent will lose handily over the long run.
Free $50
And if it is$50 incorrect for my opponent to take this line, then he should be check-folding the turn more often, which adds value to my float. Free The flip side from my perspective is that if my opponent is betting the flop and check-raising the turn this light, then it’s possible that I need more than a bare gutshot to float against this particular opponent. Again, this is part of that gray area of PLO that is not easily defined.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Part IV: Attacking the Limper An opportunistic LAG tactic.
The second element of LAG play is attacking the limper, or putting in a raise and taking the pre-flop initiative after one or more players has limped in and entered the pot in front of you. In general, you should revert to basic full-ring strategy when playing behind a limper, meaning that you should tend to raise with the premium-class hands such as A♠ K♦ Q♠ J♥, Q♠ Q♣ J♠ T♥, J♠ T♦ 9♥ 7♠ or double-paired hands such as J♠ J♦ T♠ T♥, but limp in behind with most everything else you play. However, if the limper is a weak player and/or the blinds are tight, you might put in a raise with additional hands composed primarily of unpaired high cards like K-Q-T-7 or K-Q-J-8 with a suit, or Broadway wrap hands with a suited ace like A-K-T-3. In addition, ante games provide additional incentive to put in a raise and isolate limpers, given the extra dead money in the pot. These games also provide extra ammunition, as the extra money in the pot also means that you can put in a bigger raise, which is more likely to help you successfully knock out the blinds and isolate the limper. However, when two or more players have limped in front of you, you can anticipate playing a multi-way pot after the flop. In this case, you should generally revert to normal full-ring strategy and restrict your raises to premium-class hands, while limping in with speculative and marginal hands. This is generally true in both the standard no-ante games and the deep-stack ante games. Note that dry pairs such as K♠ K♥ Q♠ 3♦ or Q♠ Q♥ J♠ 4♥ are generally limping hands, regardless of the opposition, as these kinds of hands generally want to play a small pot after the flop, whether in ante games or not. Hand #1: BB vs. SB The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button folds. The small blind ($178) limps in. I have enough hand to attack the small blind in position, with three Broadway cards, double-suited. I either steal his limp, or build the pot for value in position -- and if 3-bets me, so what? There’s not a lot of downside. Action: I ($510.30) raise to $12, and the small blind calls.
Flop ($24): My opponent checks. I should tend to bet the top pair and diamonds. Action: I bet $24, and my opponent folds. Hand #2: Attacking the Limper The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the cutoff ($282.30) -- the same opponent from the previous hand -- who limps in. A♠ K♣ 8♣ 6♠ is not a premium-class hand by any means, but if the limper is not strong, and if the blinds are tight -- as generally is the case at $2-$4 -- it is enough of a hand to warrant trying to isolate with a suited ace and gapped connectors, and an additional suit for kicks. Action: I ($663.90) raise to $18, and only the limper calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($42): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check with top pair and a gutshot. I probably should have bet this in the absence of live two pair draws.
Turn ($42): My opponent bets $42. I’m not folding for one bet. Action: I call.
River ($126): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows 9♥ 9♠ 7♥ 6♣, and I win with my pair of kings. Hand #3: Getting Limp 3-Bet The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($172.40) limps in. The next player folds. The standard play is to limp in with this speculative-class drawing hand. That said, I probably have enough high-card strength in order to isolate. Action: I ($444.50) raise to $18. It gets folded back to the limper, who re-raises to $60. I call. I suppose I should pay more attention to stack sizes when I try to make an isolation play.
Flop ($126): My opponent bets $112.40 all-in. Nothing I can do now. Action: I fold. Hand #4: Attacking the Limper The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
The UTG player is the same opponent from the previous hand. Pre-flop: The UTG player ($199.90) limps in. The cutoff folds. He can’t have A-A-x-x every time. And even if he did, there’s not a whole lot of downside to raising the pot, as even if the blinds fold and he re-raises, he Free $50
can only make Free $50it $60 to go, leaving over a pot-sized bet left to play if I call. In other words, the downside is not much worse than gambling. Action: I ($593.40) raise to $18, and only the limper calls.
Flop ($42): My opponent checks. We have a low mid-SPR situation, with an SPR just over 4. The play is to ram and jam top pair. Action: I bet $42, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($126): My opponent checks. No real reason to stop betting now. If I’m beat, then I am beat. Action: I bet $126. My opponent raises all-in to $139.90. I call. My opponent shows K♦ T♦ 6♠ 4♣, and I am drawing dead. Whatever. I don’t really see checking the turn as being an option. That said, with his hand, about 99% of players would have check-raised the flop rather than check-called, with or without the pair of kings to go with the nut open-ended straight draw.
River ($405.80): Hand #5: Attacking the Limper The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($309) limps in. The cutoff folds. A Broadway wrap hand with a suited ace is more than strong enough to try to isolate with. Action: I ($1,177.50) raise to $18. The small blind ($392), big blind ($168.80), and limper all call.
Flop ($72): Everybody checks to me. I hit the middle pair, but also hit a pivot card with backdoor spades. In a four-way pot, I should check and take the free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($72): Everybody checks to me. I should bet the undertrips.
Free $50
Action: I$50 bet $40, and only the small blind calls. Free
River ($152): My opponent checks. There’s really little reason to think my trip sevens with the ace kicker is not the best hand. Avalue bet is in order. Action: I bet $80 and my opponent folds. It’s possible my half-pot bet scared away my opponent. Hand #6: Small Ball, Overfull The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($415.40) and cutoff ($120) both call. With two limpers in, the play is to revert to basic full-ring strategy, which is to limp in behind with speculative-class drawing hands like this one. Action: I ($1,070.20) call. The small blind folds. The big blind ($889.50) checks.
Flop ($18): Nice. I flopped the overfull with redraws. Action: It gets checked to the cutoff, who bets $9. At this point, I have to balance the merits of raising and trying to play for stacks if my opponent has a full house or trips, vs. the merits of smooth calling trying to suck out one more bet if my opponent instead has air. I think in aggregate, the better play is to jam the pot and hope my opponent has a piece of it. Action: I raise to $45, and everybody folds. So he didn’t have anything. At least I tried. Hand #7: QQJT, Combo Float The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($335.65) limps in. I ($400) raise to $18, and only the limper calls. This is a standard raise with this premium-class hand, which I will make in position behind any number of opponents.
Flop ($42): My opponent bets $21. I call. Stopping call/combo float.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($84): My opponent checks. If I check here, I am liable to face a bet on the river I can’t call. But if I bet, I can represent the flush, and shut down on the river if called. Action: I bet $52, and my opponent calls. I am pretty much done with the hand.
River ($188): My opponent bets $94. Whether he had the flush or had a set and made the full house is pretty irrelevant, unless I am considering making a bluff raise. Maybe some other time. Action: I fold. Hand #8: AQQ6, Small Ball, Middle Set The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($334.50) limps in. This is basically a limp-or-fold situation, where my hand is not strong enough to want to build the pot with a raise. Action: I ($400) call. The button folds. The small blind ($1,631.30) calls, and the big blind ($850.35) checks.
Flop ($16): Both blinds check. The UTG player bets $16. The standard play with middle set is to smooth call and play a small pot. Action: I call, and both blinds fold.
Turn ($48): My opponent checks. I now have a flush draw and a gutshot to go with my set of queens. This hand should be bet. Action: I bet $48, and my opponent calls.
River ($144): My opponent checks. There’s little value in betting. This hand should be shown down.
Free $50
Action: I check. My opponent shows K♣ K♦ 4♣ 3♠ for a set of kings, having also turned the king-high flush draw. Free $50 I guess I got lucky the straight card hit the turn, which might have saved me a bet. Hand #9: Small Ball, Flopping the Second-Nut Straight The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($759.30) limps in. This hand is a very marginal Small Ball hand that does not warrant a raise on its own merits. That said, I do have the button, and I like seeing flops. Action: I ($400) limp in, and the small blind ($715.20) limps in. The big blind ($119.60) raises to $20, and the UTG player calls. I’m really not the type to limp in and fold for one more bet while on the button. Action: I call, and the small blind calls.
Flop ($80): Both blinds check. The UTG player bets $25. I flopped the second-nut straight, and am staring at a weak stab. I don’t see much value in raising -- but I don’t see how I can fold, either. Action: I call. Both blinds fold.
Turn ($130): My opponent checks. At this point, I have to figure I have the best hand. Action: I bet $78, and my opponent calls. Keeping in the theme of small bet sizes in this hand.
River ($286): My opponent checks. There is still no reason to think I don’t have the best hand. The only real question is how much to bet. That said, I can bet all-in. Action: I bet $277 all-in, and my opponent folds. Hand #10: Attacking the Limper The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($32.25) limps in. The next player folds. I ($95.55) raise to $2.25, and only the limper calls. Fairly standard isolation play with high-card strength.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($5.25): My opponent checks. I bet $5.25, and my opponent folds. This time, I bet the pair plus nut open-ended straight draw. Hand #11: A-A-x-x, Small Ball The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($88.60) limps in. The cutoff folds. Without a suited ace or a second pair, my A-A-x-x hand is not a premium-class hand. Action: I ($70.20) call. The small blind ($20.05) calls. The big blind ($49) checks.
Flop ($2): Both blinds check. The next player bets $1. I call, and both blinds fold. Stopping call.
Turn ($4): My opponent checks. I bet $4, and my opponent calls. Standard play.
River ($12): My opponent checks. Showdown. Action: I check. My opponent sows 9♥ 5♦ 4♣ 2♣ for a pair of fives, and I win. My opponent misplayed the hand from start to finish. He should have folded pre-flop, bet the pot on the flop, and bet the pot again on the turn once I called the flop. But then, having checked the turn, he should have folded his weak draw, unless he knew that I had specifically A-A-K-3 and that he had as many live outs as he did. But then if he knew that I had A-A-K-3, he should have raised in order to try to make me fold. Hand #12: Check Down The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($34.05) limps in. The cutoff folds. I ($99.40) raise to $2.25. The small blind ($71.30) calls. The big blind folds. The limper calls. Free
$50
Free $50 Standard raise with a premium hand.
Flop ($7.25): Both opponents check to me. I hit the pivot card and flopped a gutshot, and am up against two opponents. I also have a backdoor nut club draw. I suppose I could probably stand a check-raise with all that, but I could also use the free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($7.25): Both opponents check. I suppose I could bet…but I could also take the free card. Action: I check.
River ($7.25): Both opponents check. I can show down the queen. Action: I check. The small blind shows A♥ K♠ Q♣ 6♥ for a pair of queens, which splits the pot with me. The hijack has 9♥ 8♠ 5♠ 4♥ for a pair of eights. Hand #13: Getting 3-Bet from the Blinds, Semi-Bluff Raise The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I post a $0.50 blind in the cutoff. The UTG player ($31.25) limps in. The hijack folds. I ($50) raise to $2.25. This is a loose isolation play. The standard play would be to check my option, given the dangler in my hand. Action: The button folds. The small blind ($43.25) calls. The big blind ($70.85) re-raises to $9.50. The UTG player folds. I call. The small blind folds. Standard.
Flop ($21.75): My opponent bets $12.35. This time, I have the smaller stack, and the SPR is about 2. I have the second-nut flush draw facing a weak-stab c-bet. I can make a case for just about any play here. I could fold because I only have the second-nut flush draw and could be smoked if my opponent has the nut flush draw, or I could call if I think there’s a good chance my flush draw is live. Or…I could go ahead and shove with my second-nut flush draw and hope I can get my opponent to fold a weak hand like A-A-x-x or air. Action: I raise to $40.50 all-in. My opponent folds. Hand #14: Combo Float The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), five-handed
Free $50
My position: Free $50Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($40) posts the big blind and checks. The cutoff folds. I ($185.80) raise to $2.25. The small blind ($64.40) calls. The big blind ($50.30) calls. The UTG player calls. Ok, so I failed to isolate and ended up with a multi-way pot. But whatever -- I have a decent hand and position on the field.
Flop ($9): The small blind checks. The big blind bets $5.50. The UTG player folds. I call. The small blind folds. I have middle pair and a gutshot, with a backdoor club draw. This is a combo float against a possible weak stab.
Turn ($20): My opponent checks. This strikes me as the steal sign. I did pick up a flush draw -- if the stacks were deeper, I’d probably at least consider checking behind. But I am probably not betting $20 and folding for $23 more, so I feel pretty safe betting here. Action: I bet $20, and my opponent folds. Hand #15: K-K-x-x The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($54.45) limps in. The cutoff folds. I ($94.65) raise to $2.25. The small blind folds. The big blind ($33.30) and UTG player call. I usually limp with these, and reserve the raises for real premium hands containing kings like K-K-Q-J with a suit. I just thought I’d try it.
Flop ($7): Both opponents check to me. I’m not betting this -- I am either beat by an ace or I am not. Ideally, I want to make this a one bet affair at most. I can pick off a bluff at best. Action: I check.
Turn ($7): I picked up the nut flush. Action: The blind checks. The UTG player bets $3.50. I have a hard time folding the nut flush here for just one bet given the action thus far. Action: I call. The blind calls.
Free $50
The overcall makes me real nervous, however. Free $50
River ($17.50): The blind checks. The UTG player bets $8.75. I have to figure I am beat here. The UTG player bet the turn when the flush hit and got called in two spots on a paired board. I seriously doubt he is betting a smaller flush or bare trips here, much less double-barreling air into a hopeless situation. Action: I fold. The blind calls. The UTG player shows A♦ J♣ 7♣ 6♥ for a full house. The other guy shows 7♠ 7♥ 6♦ 4♥ for a flush. Apparently the other guy didn’t get the memo. Hand #16: Top Pair, Top Two The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($44.65) limps in. The cutoff folds. I ($104.55) raise to $2.25, and only the limper calls. A somewhat loose play with a sub-premium hand, but I got what I wanted: heads up with the positional advantage.
Flop ($5.25): My opponent checks. I have top pair with a fistful of top two pair draws. Action: I check.
Turn ($5.25): My opponent checks. I turned top two, and picked up a flush draw as well. Plus my opponent has checked twice. This must be bet. Action: I bet $5.25 and my opponent folds. Hand #17: Checking Down, Picking Off Bluffs The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The cutoff ($69.60) limps in. K-J-J-9 double-suited is a tweener hand, that is not quite a premium-class hand. This would be a semi-loose raise. Action: I ($105.10) raise to $4.50. Both blinds fold. The hijack calls.
Free $50
Flop ($10.50): My opponent checks. I check. Free $50 Pot-control check. I have an overpair and a gutshot. There’s little value in betting, and I don’t want to get raised.
Turn ($10.50): My opponent checks. I check. Now I have jacks up, which I feel better about, though it is a one-bet hand at most.
River ($10.50): My opponent bets $6. Given the action -- or rather lack of it -- I have to call here. Action: I call. My opponent shows K♥ Q♦ 4♦ 2♥ for a smaller two pair. I win. Hand #18: Top Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($136.50) limps in, and the next two players fold. I ($226.80) raise to $4.50. Both blinds fold. The limper calls. Successful isolation.
Flop ($10.50): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
Turn ($10.50): My opponent bets $10.50. I call. I am not folding top pair for one bet. Plus I picked up a flush draw.
River ($31.50): My opponent checks. The second-nut flush should be bet. Action: I bet $18. My opponent folds. You can see one of the benefits of playing top pair or other marginal hands or draws in this manner, and it is that you are basically going to see the river any time you flop anything of value, and without having to bloat the pot. This time I backed into the flush. Hand #19: BB vs. SB Check Down The game: $ 0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed
Free $50
My position: Big Blind Free $50 My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($141.85), who calls. I ($120) raise to $3. My opponent calls.
Flop ($6): My opponent checks. I have middle pair and a nut gutshot. I like checking here. Action: I check.
Turn ($6): My opponent checks. The board paired and flushed. I do have the dry king, but I also probably have the best hand. I could just bet, but I prefer to showdown the hand. Checking here will give my opponent a chance to bluff the river, while not giving my opponent the chance to check-raise bluff, which I would not be all that comfortable trying to pick off. Action: I check.
River ($6): My opponent checks. I check. My opponent shows K♠ K♣ Q♥ 5♠ and wins with trip queens. OK. I probably wasn’t winning the hand with a bet anyway. Hand #20: Trips The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button The hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($40.25) calls. The cutoff folds. I ($62) call. The small blind ($35.25) calls. The big blind ($71.50) checks. Dry queens is a marginal hand that will likely want a small pot. I’d like to see a cheap flop.
Flop ($4): Both blinds check. The next player bets $4. I call. Both blinds fold. Undertrips is also a small pot hand. I should call at least the one possible steal bet.
Turn ($12): My opponent checks. I picked up a diamond draw. There are probably two ways I could play this -- I could bet the turn and show down the river unimproved, orFree check the$50 turn
and call if$50 my opponent bets on the river, or bet if he checks. Free Action: I bet $6, and my opponent calls.
River ($24): My opponent checks. I have enough to showdown. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♣ J♥ J♣ 4♣ for trip fours and a King kicker; we split the pot. Hand #21: BB vs. SB The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($110.95), who limps in. A Broadway wrap hand -- with or without a suited ace (but at least single-suited) -- is more than enough to hammer the small blind. Action: I ($100.35) raise to $3, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($6): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
Turn ($6): My opponent bets $6. I call. Standard stopping call after checking flop.
River ($18): My opponent checks. I am clearly betting the nut straight, the only question being how much. I think a big bet is in order given that it is easy for my opponent to have a smaller straight to call me with on this board. Action: I bet $18, and my opponent calls, showing Q♣ J♥ 6♣ 3♠, for the second-nut straight, having flopped top-and-bottom two pair. Hand #22: Delayed C-bet The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack posts $1 big blind and dead $0.50 small blind. The UTG player folds. The hijack checks. I ($310.40) raise to $5. Ordinarily, I would just call here with this speculative drawing hand behind a limper, but I decided to take the initiative with the hijack having posted the blind rather $50 than Free
limping after having seen his cards. Free $50 Action: The button folds. The small blind ($89.90) calls. The big blind and hijack both fold.
Flop ($12.50): My opponent checks. I hit a pivot card -- the nine -- and so considerable help could arrive on the turn in the form of a seven or a queen or anything that gives me a straight draw, perhaps with a potential diamond draw to go with it. This is a good spot to take the free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($12.50): The small blind checks. Well, my opponent doesn’t appear to have much interest in this pot -- otherwise, he probably would have bet by now. I did pick up a gutshot, but if I think there is a very strong chance that my opponent will fold to a bet here, then I should take it, because my opponent is much more likely to fold to a bet here than if I check the turn and then bet the river out of the blue. Note that one of the benefits of routinely checking behind top pair on these types of flops is that it makes it much more plausible for me to have something like A-K-x-x for top two pair here. Action: I bet $12.50 and my opponent folds. Hand #23: Wrap on Flop, Semi-Bluff Raise on Turn The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($72.15) limps in, and it gets folded to me. I ($196.85) raise to $4.50. The small blind ($3.90) calls all-in for $3.90. The big blind ($40) calls. The UTG player calls. Ok, so we have a four-way pot with one player all-in.
Flop ($15.60 main pot, $1.80 side pot): The big blind checks. The UTG player bets $5. Well, I’m not folding my 12-card nut wrap. But right now I have nothing, and so it doesn’t make much sense to raise here with my 12-card nut wrap unless I feel real strongly that I can make the bettor and the blind both fold, because I am probably not even a favorite to win the main pot. Action: I call. The big blind calls.
Turn ($15.60 main pot, $16.80 side pot): The big blind checks. The UTG bets $5. Well, technically, my hand got worse because (a) I missed, and (b) a second spade hit, devaluing my draw. But in reality, I think the situation has improved, because (a) the side pot is now considerable, and (b) the UTG player appears really weak, while the big blind doesn’t look like he has anything. I think I will make a play for the side pot. Action: I raise to $47.90, and both opponents fold. I win the side pot.
Free $50
Yes! Free $50
River ($15.60 main pot): The small blind shows A♦ K♥ 8♥ 5♠ and wins the main pot with trip aces. I did what I could with what I had. Hand #24: Overtrips The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($28.35) limps in. I ($100) raise to $4.50. The button folds. The small blind ($34.20) calls. The big blind and limper fold. A-9-8-5 with a suited ace is not a real premium hand, but is decent enough for this sort of thing. It has the suited ace and connectors with a top-end 17card wrap possibility, and so it at least has some potential and some versatility.
Flop ($11): My opponent checks. I bet $8, and my opponent calls. Standard.
Turn ($27): My opponent bets $21.70 all-in. I can’t fold here. If my opponent had Q-8-x-x, I would expect him to check the turn. And even if he actually has trips, I can beat bare trips with my ace kicker. Action: I call.
River ($70.40): My opponent shows A♦ 6♦ 6♠ 5♣. I win. Hand #25: KKTT, 4-Way Check Down The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($63.10) limps in. I ($102.80) raise to $4.50. Both players behind me fold. Both blinds ($23.25 and $50) call. The UTG player calls. Standard play with premium-class double-paired hand.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($18): Everybody checks to me. The ace or eights either beat me or they don’t. There is no value in betting the kings, and I don’t need to bet to protect my hand from being outdrawn, as my two pair will not be outdrawn and anybody holding a pocket pair is drawing thin. Ideally, I want to show this hand down. Action: I check.
Turn ($18): Everybody checks to me. I check.
River ($18): Everybody checks to me. I check. The big blind shows A♥ 9♠ 7♠ 6♣ for aces up and wins. The UTG player had K♥ J♦ 6♦ 5♥. The small blind had K♦ Q♥ T♥ 5♠. I suppose I could have made the A-9-7-6 hand fold by betting, but he also could just as easily had A-K-x-x (we’ll ignore the fact that all the kings were out in the actual hand) and called. Hand #26: BB vs. SB, Undertrips The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded around to the small blind ($99), who limps in. I ($192.70) raise to $3. My opponent calls. J-6-5-4ds isn’t all that strong a hand, but I figure it is OK enough to build a pot heads up in position.
Flop ($6): My opponent checks. I check. I suppose I could just as easily have bet the undertrips with the gutshot. But my mindset is small-pot poker for small-pot hands -- and undertrips is far more often than not a small-pot hand.
Turn ($6): My opponent bets $3. Obviously I’m not folding for one bet, and probably not two, either. I also picked up a flush draw. That said, I don’t really want to raise and bloat the pot, either -- all my hand is really good for is picking off bluffs, or maybe getting a bet or two from an overpair. Action: I call.
Free $50
River ($12): My opponent checks. Free $50 The third spade appearing dampens my opportunity for a value bet. Action: I check. My opponent shows Q♥ Q♣ J♣ 7♥ for queens up, and I win with a straight. Hand #27: Shortstacked The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
This hand took place before the days of the auto-top-off option; I had just lost a hand, and didn’t get a chance to top off my stack. And as a result, I am playing only 28.5BBs deep. Pre-flop: The hijack posts a $0.50 dead small blind. The UTG player folds. The hijack ($66.50) calls. I have a premium-structure rundown with a suit, and am behind a limper. My stack is a little short, but what the hey… Action: I ($28.50) raise to $5. The button folds. The small blind ($20.15) calls. The big blind folds. The hijack calls.
Flop ($16.50): Both opponents check. I have top pair with a nut gutshot and backdoor wrap possibilities in a low-SPR situation (SPR 1.42) where both of my opponents have checked. There’s only one thing to do: Bet and commit. Action: I bet $16.50. The small blind folds. The hijack raises and sets me all-in for $7 more. I call. My opponent shows A♥ 9♥ 8♦ 2♣. That’s not a terribly unreasonable play by my opponent with a pair and gutshot, especially since he probably gives me credit for an overpair. But my question is, if he knew he was going all the way himself, then why not just lead out and give me a chance to fold rather than let me bet and commit myself?
Turn ($63.50):
River ($63.50): Well, he played bad and I played good. I win. Hand #28: Top Pair, Low SPR The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($20.45) limps in. I ($100) raise to $4.50. I have a premium-class hand. I attack the limper. Action: The cutoff ($34.85) calls. The button folds. The small blind ($279.75) calls. The big blind folds. The limper calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($19): The first two players check. I have top pair, and we have a low SPR and ultra-low-SPR situation with two of the players. The only player I might be concerned with is the small blind, who has already checked. This hand should be bet. Action: I bet $19. The last player calls. The small blind folds, and the other player calls all-in for $15.95.
Turn (Main Pot: $66.85, Side Pot: $6.10): The spade hit, but there is already $72.95 in the pot, and my last live opponent has only $11.35 left. There’s more than enough room for my opponent to have something other than spades -- perhaps a pair, or a straight draw. Action: I set the other player all-in for his last $11.35. He calls, showing K♦ Q♠ T♥ 9♠ for spades, and I am drawing dead. The other player shows J♣ 8♥ 8♦ 2♥ for jack shit.
River (Main Pot: $66.85, Side Pot: $28.80): Irrelevant. Hand #29: Overquads The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($277.90) limps in. The cutoff folds. I ($235.50) raise to $9. Both blinds fold. The UTG player calls. Standard raise with a premium hand in position.
Flop ($21): Overquads. I am probably going to win this one. Action: My opponent checks. I bet $8. My opponent raises to $45. In truth, I probably should have checked this back, because it is very difficult for my opponent to have much to call more than a bet or two with, considering that I have both jacks in my hand. But my thought at the time was that if I want to win big, I need to bet now. Now given that I bet small and got raised a healthy amount (the full pot), my guess is my opponent is on the steal, which of course is what I was hoping to get him to do. Re-raising at this point would be absurd. Trap away. Action: I call.
Turn ($111): My opponent bets $111. I call.
Free $50
Of course. Free $50
River ($333): My opponent sets me all-in for $70.50. I call. My opponent shows K♣ T♦ T♠ 4♦, having flopped the underfull. Yeah, OK, I understand now. I’m not so sure I like his play, though -- the underfull is a small-pot hand in my book… I mean, how far does he expect me to go with something he can beat? I suppose he read me OK assuming he put me on trips if you assume that the 7♥ (and then logically the 4♠ in turn) was unlikely to hit me. Hand #30: Middle Pair, Middle Two Pair The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed, one blind My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($48.60) limps in. The next two players fold. I ($392.55) raise to $8, and both the blind ($196) and limper call. Loose isolation attempt. It failed.
Flop ($24): Both opponents check. I check. I dunno. I flopped middle pair in a three-way pot. I probably could have bet this.
Turn ($24): Both opponents check. I picked up two pair, and both opponents checked, supposed disinterested. I can probably bet safely here. Action: I bet $24, and only the blind calls.
River ($72): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows 9♠ 9♥ 8♦ 6♦ for a pair of nines. I win. My opponent’s play makes sense, though I probably would have bet his hand on the turn if I were in his shoes.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Deep Stack Ante Games
Hand #31: Attacking the Limper, Paired Board Double Barrel The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($176.25) limps in, and it gets folded to me. Limping behind is the standard play. That said, with the antes, I have additional incentive to put in a raise and try to isolate the limper. Action: I ($240.80) raise to $5.70, and only the limper calls.
Flop ($14.10): My opponent checks. A c-bet is in order. I have no hand, and no real draw. Action: I bet $7, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($28.10): My opponent checks. Again, I have no hand and no draw, and a free card would be of little benefit. Checking would be akin to giving up. That said, it is conceivable that my opponent is in call once mode with something like K-K-x-x, Q-Q-x-x, or a jack. If that is the case, I may be able to win the pot with a second, more legitimate-looking barrel. If I get called, I can give up the pot then. Action: I bet $16.50, and my opponent folds. Hand #32: Basic Strategy The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($255.75) calls. The cutoff ($101.50) calls. I would consider making an isolation raise behind one player, but not behind two. Action: I ($263.35) call. The small blind ($236.75) calls, and the big blind ($189.70) checks.
Flop ($6): Everybody checks to me. I bet $6. The small blind folds. The big blind and UTG player both call. The hijack folds. Standard bet with top pair; the gutshot is a bonus.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($24): Both opponents check. The 9♦ makes a possible straight, but I must follow through behind two checks. Besides, if somebody has the straight, I am drawing dead anyway, and so taking the free card would be of little benefit. Action: I bet $24, and both opponents fold. The Betting Machine. Hand #33: A-A-x-x, Combo Float, Combo Semi-Bluff Raise The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The next player ($298.80) limps in. The cutoff folds. I have fairly premium double-suited aces. This hand merits a raise in position behind any number of opponents. Action: I ($890.50) raise to $10.80. The small blind ($501.40) calls. The big blind folds, but the limper calls.
Flop ($36.20): The small blind bets $36.20, and the next player folds. On the one hand, I have to give my opponent credit with at some kind of hand or draw (or some combination of the two) to lead out into two opponents on a highly coordinated flop like this one. On the other hand, I do have an overpair for set potential, two backdoor nut flush draws and backdoor straight possibilities as well. Basically half the deck could give my hand real value. I could fold…or I could take one off. Action: I call. If a small spade or heart -- say the 2, 3, 4, or 5 (a 6 hits the obvious straight) and my opponent bets, I will strongly consider raising, as I am well ahead of any draw, and am not far behind a set or two pair. On the other hand, if the J♥, J♠, T♥, or T♠ hit to give me a gutshot with the nut flush draw, and my opponent bets out, I’ll likely give him credit for the straight (unless he weak-stabs it), but I will also have enough draw to call (or maybe raise a weak-stab). If my opponent checks any of these cards, I will, of course, bet. We’ll discuss any other possibilities as they occur.
Turn ($108.60): My opponent bets $54.30. I turned the nut spade draw, and my opponent made a weak-stab follow through. I am clearly not folding, and so the decision is between calling and raising. That said, if I believe my opponent is betting light, then raising is the all-purpose best option -- if my opponent has a weak made hand like two pair, then I am on the semi-bluff; if instead my opponent is on the draw, then my raise is for value, as my nut flush draw means that I am ahead of any draw. Action: I raise to $271.50, and my opponent calls.
River ($651.60): My opponent bets $182.60 all-in. I can’t really call this. Basically, if I wasn’t beat before, then the obvious straight card hitting most likely beat me. Action: I fold.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Part V: Playing Out of Position Playing when you are out of position after the flop.
Part V: Playing Out of Position deals with situations in which you open with a raise and wind up playing out of position after the flop, either because you got called or 3-bet by a player with position on you. These situations represent some of the toughest, most complicated situations in this book, and in PLO in general. That said, I recommend spending some time playing a few levels below your usual stakes, and raising liberally from out of position. Because while you shouldn’t be looking to play pots out of position at your normal stakes, these situations are inevitable; getting practice with marginal hands at smaller stakes will better prepare you to play out of position at your normal stakes when these situations do occur.
Free $50
Hand #1:$50 Getting 3-Bet, Top Pair Plus Gutshot Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($463.40) open with a raise to $14. This is a standard open with a near-premium-class hand. Notice that the player behind me has over a 200BB stack. That said, stack size is not nearly as much of a concern when I am only 115BBs deep myself as it is when I am 200BBs deep. Action: The cutoff ($818.80) re-raises to $48, and it gets folded back to me. I call. Standard.
Flop ($102): I have top pair with a gutshot and a handful of draws to top two pair. The SPR is basically 4, making this a low-SPR situation. The play here is to go for a check-raise and commit. Action: I check. My opponent bets $102. I raise to $408. My opponent re-raises and sets me all-in for $7.40 more. I call for $415.40 total. My opponent shows K♦ K♠ 5♥ 3♦. I am a 53.5%/46.5% favorite over my opponent’s bottom two pair.
Turn ($932.80):
River ($932.80): I win. Justice served. Hand #2: Undertrips, Nut Flush Draw The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Free $50
Free $50 Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($1,610.05) open with a raise to $14. The button ($490.10) calls. The small blind folds, but the big blind ($564.60) calls. Standard.
Flop ($44): The big blind checks. This is a good flop for me in the sense that I likely have the best hand with my trip fives, ace kicker, and a flush draw to go with it. However, this is still a small pot hand. Action: I check. The button bets $6.10, and the big blinds folds. The problem with raising here is that it would be difficult to get a lot of action with a hand worse than bare trips. The play here is to call, and perhaps try to suck out some money on the turn and/or river. Action: I call.
Turn ($56.20): I bet $14. The idea behind this token bet is to prevent having the turn get checked through, while keeping the pot size down in the event that my opponent raises, and perhaps draw a call from an overpair or worse trips, or maybe even a bluff raise. Action: My opponent folds. My guess is he had a jack and was just putting in a stab probe bet. His play makes sense in that it doesn’t allow the free card, and where my flop checkcall signals at least an overpair. Hand #3: SB vs. BB, Top Pair, Combo Reverse Float The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button folds. I ($576) raise to $12, and the big blind ($400) calls. I felt like this was strong enough to open fire on the big blind. You do need to consider the opposition, however -- if the big blind is the type to 3-bet frequently, you may reconsider raising here, or even playing the hand at all.
Flop ($24): With top pair and a fistful of overcards, this is a good spot for a check-call. Action: I check. My opponent bets $16, and I call.
Turn ($56): This is trickier. I usually say when in doubt, bet. Action: I check. My opponent bets $36.
Free $50
Free $50 Weak-stab follow through? Action: I call.
River ($128): I bet $88, and my opponent folds. This is often the trouble with playing out of position; it is very easy to get lost in the hand. The result is that you sometimes are forced to make up stuff, which involves a lot of guessing. That said, a lot of guessing leads to a lot of mistakes. This time I bet the spades and got away with it. Hand #4: Getting 3-Bet The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($645) open with a raise to $14. The button ($400) re-raises to $48, and both blinds fold. I call. Standard, if not ideal.
Flop ($102): I flopped a sucker-end 13-card wrap with a small flush draw, and we are in a low-SPR situation (SPR 3.5). This calls for a check-raise. Action: I check. My opponent bets $61. I raise to $285. My opponent re-raises to $352 all-in. I call. My opponent shows A♦ K♥ K♣ J♥. Uh-oh. I am a 42%/58% dog in this matchup, or just under the 43.7% break-even equity. That said, there are a lot of other hands that he could have had to bet the flop, like a dry pair (I am a 68%/32% favorite against A♦ K♥ K♣ J♣ for example).
Turn ($806): I made the straight.
River ($806): He made the bigger flush. I lose. Hand #5: Getting 3-Bet The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($400) raise to $14. The button ($806) re-raises to $31, and it gets folded back to me. I call.
Free $50
This is a little on the loose side, and a spot where I am probably better off folding to the 3-bet rather than play the hand out of position with a marginal, Free $50 marginal hand.
Flop ($68): I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($68): Having the flop get checked around, I must take a stab here. Action: I bet $38, and my opponent calls. Hand over. Once I get called there, I am pretty much getting called on the river if I bet.
River ($144): I check. My opponent checks, showing A♦ A♠ 6♣ 2♥ for aces up. Hand #6: Small Blind The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($234) limps in, and the button folds. While I like my hand, it is not a premium hand out of position, and I do not want to raise when I am basically guaranteed to pick up at least the one caller, if not two. Moreover, the big blind and I are both over 150BBs deep. Action: I ($630) limp in. The big blind ($613.85) checks.
Flop ($12): I flopped the nut diamond draw and hit a pivot card. I have enough hand/draw to call a bet if I check, but I have mixed feelings about betting out. Action: I check, and both opponents check behind me.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($12): This looks like a good betting opportunity, as I would expect my opponents to have bet the flop with a jack if they had it. Action: I bet $8. The big blind folds, but the other player calls. I don’t give my opponent here credit for a jack yet, as he is the player most likely to have bet a jack on the flop if he had it. I will fire again on the river if I don’t improve, but probably check if I do.
River ($28): I bet $20, and my opponent folds. Hand #7: Overpair The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $14, and only the cutoff ($505.80) calls. I don’t like the fact that I don’t have a suit, but whatever. I have the double pair.
Flop ($34): I don’t like the idea of check-calling with queens, as they are too easily outdrawn. Action: I bet $34, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($102): The heart flush appearing dictates a follow through shot. If I get called here, I will likely give up on the river. I do have the Q♥ blocker! Action: I bet $66, and my opponent folds. Hand #8: Getting 3-Bet The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed, one blind My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($421.90) limps in. I ($400) raise to $16. The button ($477.60) re-raises to $56, and it gets folded back to me. I call. Standard open with a premium rundown with a suit, and standard call.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($120): I check. My opponent bets $60. I fold. Well, what can you really do? This is the strength of 3-betting in position -- it puts you in an uncomfortable spot out of position where you are more likely to give up the pot than risk making a big mistake. I suppose on some days I might have bet, and on other days I might have check-raised looking to pick off a bluff. Hand #9: TT88 UTG The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($487.90) open with a raise to $14. The hijack folds. The cutoff ($327.60), button ($285.60), and small blind ($392.30) call. The big blind folds. Like I said before, I am comfortable opening with these double-paired hands because for the most part, you either hit or you don’t. I don’t mind the fourway action.
Flop ($60): The small blind checks. Well, I have two overpair on a decently dry board, and checking is essentially giving up as I am going to get outdrawn if another card comes off. Action: I bet $60. The cutoff raises to $240, and it is folded back to me. I fold. In retrospect, I probably could have shoved here with an SPR of about 5, which means I would need better than 36.9% equity on average to justify shoving and playing for stacks ($253.60 more to shove, divided by a total pot size of $687.20). Let’s just run down some of the hands a reasonable opponent might have:
I don’t think there’s necessarily a clear cut answer. Note that I have 49% equity against 8♥ 7♣ 6♥ 5♣ for top pair and a 13-card nut wrap, which is a reasonably strong hand on this flop that I just happen to match up OK enough against. So let’s say my opponent’s range is two pair-or-better, plus any 13card wrap or better -- in that case, where it is probably more likely my opponent has some kind of a wrap rather than a set, I’d say it looks like a pretty close play, but not a clear shove one way or another. Widen my opponent’s range to top pair and overcards -- like A♣ 9♥ 8♣ 7♠ -- and I can better justify a shove. If, on the other hand, my opponent’s range is two pair-or-better, but no draws, then folding is clearly correct because there is really no way I am averaging 36.9% or better equity against this opponent in aggregate.
Free $50
Free $50 Hand #10: Paired Board The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($420) open with a raise to $14, and only the button ($453) calls. Standard. I love this hand, but not this position.
Flop ($34): No hand, no draw, paired board. Most of the time against most opponents, this dictates a bet. Action: I bet $20, and my opponent folds. Hand #11: Getting 3-Bet The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($426.70) open with a raise to $14. The hijack ($240) re-raises to $48, and everybody folds back to me. I call. Standard play with a premium-class hand.
Flop ($102): I flopped top pair with the second-nut flush draw in a low-SPR situation. I can either bet out and commit, or go for a check-raise. Action: I check. My opponent checks. Damnit.
Turn ($102): I might as well bet the jack. Action: I bet $56, and my opponent calls. OK.
River ($204): I check. My opponent checks, showing A♣ K♥ 6♠ 6♦ for sixes up. I win.
Free $50
Free $50 A-K-6-6 rainbow is probably one of the last hands I would 3-bet pre-flop with, as it has a few major flaws -- the single non-A-A-x-x pair, the lack of suits, and the lack of wrap potential of any kind. My opponent got what he deserved, as there aren’t too many flops that would be easy for him to play. Meanwhile, if I were my opponent, I probably bet that flop with little hand and not much in the way of improvers. Hand #12: Second-Nut Flush Draw, Picking Off Bluffs The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($102.30) open with a raise to $1.75, and only the cutoff ($64.30) calls. A loose raise UTG. Certainly a bad idea in tougher games, and now I am heads up out of position, which is a poor outcome.
Flop ($4.25): I flopped the second-nut flush draw and hit the gap -- a ten on the turn would give me a top-end 17-card wrap. I suppose I could bet, but I prefer checking here and seeing what my opponent does. I would prefer the free card -- if I can get it -- to bloating the pot out of position with a non-nut draw. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($4.25): I now have top pair and a gutshot. Given the lack of action on the flop, I have to figure my queen may be good. This is a bet. Action: I bet $4.25, and my opponent calls. I give my opponent credit here for some kind of draw, though there are all kinds of straight draws and two flush draws out. Consequently, it is difficult to know exactly what draw(s).
River ($12.75): I have top pair, which is enough to show down, which is part one. Part two is that if my opponent was on a flush draw or a Broadway wrap, then he missed it. The best play is to check and show down. Action: I check. My opponent bets $12.75. I think my opponent would have checked a queen if he had it. He basically either hit a small straight or has air, and I think with all of the possible draws out, it is a lot more likely that he has air. Action: I call. My opponent shows A♣ T♠ 4♣ 3♠ for a pair of fours and a busted nut flush draw and busted double-nut gutshot. This hand was poorly played on my opponent’s part. If I had his hand, I would have bet the flop 100% with the nut flush draw and nut gutshot, and having failed to do that, I probably would have raised the turn. Just think about how much harder it would be for me to play my hand had my opponent done any of those things. Hand #13: Inside Wrap, Double Barrel The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: I ($50) open with a raise to $1.75. The hijack ($27.70) calls. The cutoff folds. The button ($87.30) calls. The small blind folds, but the big blind ($51.90) calls. OK open UTG. The three diamonds aren’t perfect, but hey.
Flop ($7.25): The big blind checks. I bet $7.25, and only the button calls. I want to c-bet as many hands as I can comfortably get away with. The inside wrap is marginal in that it is only a nine-outer like the nut flush draw, but I probably have adequate fold equity, and the draw is probably well enough disguised to have some implied value.
Turn ($21.75): I picked up another four outs, though the potential club draw appearingtaints my draw a bit. That said, unless it hit my opponent, the A♣ is also a good scare card; moreover, I am shallow enough that I am pretty much pot-committed if I bet and get raised. The gist of it is that it is hard for betting to be wrong. Action: I bet $21.75, and my opponent folds. Hand #14: A-A-x-x The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($100.75) open with a raise to $1.75. Only the cutoff ($65.60) and big blind ($40.70) call. I have relatively premium double-suited aces with a Broadway card and a wheel card.
Flop ($5.50): The big blind checks. With the gutshot and overpair, I am more inclined to bet this than check and hope it gets checked through. Action: I bet $5.50, and only the big blind calls.
Turn ($16.50): My opponent checks. I picked up the nut spade draw and a nut gutshot to go with my overpair and wheel draw, and am fully committed to seeing the river. Continuing is automatic. Action: I bet $16.50 and my opponent folds. Hand #15: Flush Draw, Semi-Bluff Reverse Float
Free $50
The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed Free $50 My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($42.90) open limps. The small blind ($50.45) calls. I ($50) raise to $1.50. Both opponents call. I don’t ordinarily like raising out of the blinds, but I don’t mind building the pot sometimes with a real premium hand like this one.
Flop ($4.50): The small blind checks. I have the second-nut flush draw with a backdoor nut spade draw and a host of cards that would vastly improve my hand on the turn. I want to see the turn card -- preferably for free -- and I don’t want to bet out and get raised off the hand. The play is to check. Action: I check. The button bets $2.50. The small blind folds. I call. This winds up being a semi-bluff reverse float against a weak stab probable steal bet.
Turn ($9.50): The 8♦ gives me the nut open-ended straight draw to go with my second-nut heart draw. And if I give my opponent credit for a weak stab steal on the flop, then I need to bet this and try to take down the pot. Action: I bet $9.50 and my opponent folds. Hand #16: Top Pair, Wrap Plus Nut Flush Draw The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($107.50) open with a raise to $1.75. Only the hijack ($71.25) calls. Standard open with a true premium hand.
Flop ($4.25): I like checking and playing pot control with top pair and a bunch of improvers in this spot, because: (a) My opponent may bet a worse hand that he might instead fold if I bet. (b) Checking helps balances my checks in these spots between air and non-air, and (c) I don’t want to bet out and get raised and have to fold my hand, when it may have legitimate value in a small pot (against steals and such) but not a big one (against big hands or big draws). Action: I check. My opponent bets $2. I call.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($8.25): Now I have top pair and a 13-card nut wrap with the nut heart draw. I can only check this if I know my opponent is going to bet so I can raise him. Otherwise, I need to bet this hand myself. Action: I bet $8.25. My opponent calls. Ok.
River ($24.75): I have a tough choice between checking and betting. On the one hand, I have enough hand to pick off a bluff; meanwhile, I may have a tough time getting a better hand than mine -- like two pair, for example, to fold if I bet. On the other hand, I might also be up against a straight. The play here is to either check-and-call, or otherwise put in a blocking bet. Action: I bet $15. My opponent folds. I might have bet more than I needed to. Hand #17: Top Two Pair, Flush Draw on Straight Board The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($55.50) open with a raise to $1.75, and only the hijack ($17) and button ($47.95) call. This is a loose open from UTG six-handed. But then again, we are not terribly deep at about 100BBs, and about 34BBs with the hijack.
Flop ($6): I flopped top two pair with a gutshot and the second-nut flush draw. If it were just me and the hijack, this would be a low-SPR situation and an automatic bet/commit. However, we have a mid-SPR situation (SPR 8) with the button, and so my action is not so clear, as I don’t want to bet out and get raised. This is a tricky spot with no clear action. Action: I check, and it gets checked around.
Turn ($6): With the flop getting checked around and a blank hitting the turn, the only play is to bet. Action: I bet $6. The next player raises to $15.25 all-in, and the button folds. I am pretty much pot-committed with the top two pair and flush draw. Meanwhile, there is little reason to believe that I don’t have the best hand at the moment, either. Action: I call. My opponent shows A♠ A♦ Q♣ 4♣ for aces and the third-nut flush draw.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($36.50): I win. Given the hijack’s stack size, his play before the flop should have been to 3-bet the pot pre-flop with his A-Ax-x hand -- creating a one-bet pot max on the flop -- and then commit to any flop. Hand #18: Getting 3-Bet The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($100) open with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff ($79.25) re-raises to $12, and it gets folded back to me. I call. All standard. I like opening with the suited double-pair hands, as they are relatively easy to play. I don’t like getting 3-bet, but I can’t fold, either.
Flop ($25.50): I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($25.50): I have two set draws (which may or may not be live), and I picked up a flush draw. I have a choice between betting out and doing something else involving checking. My fives are blockers to the wheel, but they aren’t worth a whole lot if my opponent has an ace, because in that case I could bet and my opponent may decide to just not believe me, considering how unlikely it is for me to have flopped a wheel. I think the better play is to check. If my opponent bets, then I may take a shot at raising him. If instead my opponent checks behind, then fine -- I get the free card. Action: I check. My opponent bets $12.75. My opponent’s roughly half-pot bet makes it easier to raise him. Action: I raise to $63.75, and my opponent folds. Hand #19: Getting 3-Bet, Flopping the Overfull, and Playing Against the Float The game: $0.50-$1 (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($299.90) open with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff ($87.75) calls. The button ($172.55) re-raises to $9.50. Both blinds fold. I call, and the cutoff calls.
Flop ($30):
Freehas$50 YES! I flopped the overfull. The question is how to play it. And if I want to win a big pot here, there are really only two ways -- one is if somebody trip
deuces or 6-2-x-x and overplays the hand; the other is somebody has basically nothing and I can get him to bluff at it. Otherwise, if I am up against an Free $50 overpair like A-A-x-x, I am probably looking at one or two streets of value, as opposed to the $163.05 left in the button’s stack. That said, it’s fairly unlikely that one of my two opponents has a deuce. Now checking is OK, but here’s the thing: If I check and the cutoff checks, then the button will be in a situation where he might check an overpair but only bet air. This is bad in the sense that I will pretty much only get action on this street if the button has nothing, in which case it will be difficult for me to win a big pot by checking the flop. But if instead I choose to bet, I force the button into action if he has an overpair, and I give him a chance to make a big mistake if he has air (like T-9-8-7) and wants to try to represent A-A-x-x by flat-calling (floating). I like the counterintuitive play. Action: I bet $12. The cutoff folds. The button calls. Ok, so I chose a puny amount, but I have a taker.
Turn ($54): Here’s another tricky decision point: Do I continue to bet, or do I check? The thing about betting is that if I bet, my opponent may fold an underpair (i.e. QQ-x-x through 7-7-x-x, and maybe even 5-5-x-x through 3-3-x-x) or air, whereas he might call another bet on the river with those pairs if I check, or he might be planning on betting air (the second part of the float) if I check. Really, I don’t want to bet if my opponent is only going to give me action with K-K-x-x (which I am now getting crushed by) or A-A-x-x (which I might get only one more bet out of, but could conceivably get two). Action: I check. My opponent bets $27. I call. I’m not sure my opponent doesn’t check back A-A-x-x if he has it, and I don’t want to raise if the only other calling hand in my opponent’s range is K-K-x-x. Meanwhile, if my opponent instead has air, the best play is to call.
River ($108): Another card, another decision. Just note for a second how tricky this situation is playing out of position -- if instead I am in position, I just bet every street and hope he comes along, and there’s a whole lot less guessing and deliberating over these decisions. Now at this point, I should almost certainly bet, because I don’t want to check and have my opponent check back a pair (any pocket pair, or K-x-x-x). The tricky part is when I give my opponent credit for air. And in that case, I need to bet small enough that my opponent has room to raise. I need to make it look like a blocking bet. Action: I bet $45. My opponent raises all-in to $124.05. I call. My opponent shows Q♦ Q♣ T♦ 9♥. Yeah. So my opponent pretty much knew he was beat when I called him on the turn. That said, if I was in his shoes, (a) I don’t 3-bet the single-pair hands because they are so difficult to play when you only have an overpair such as in situations like this one, and (b) I check back the turn, because if I have the best hand, I am not easily outdrawn, and I am probably not getting a hand worse than queens up to call me if I bet. I thought I played the hand pretty well. That said, I gave my opponent a way out when the king hit and I checked, and so my opponent blew the hand probably about as well as I played it. Hand #20: Getting 3-Bet, Top Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I post a dead small blind in the cutoff. The first two players both fold. I ($131.65) open with a raise to $4. The button ($88.90) re-raises to $14. The small blind ($313.70) calls. The big blind folds. I call.
Free $50
Standard, standard. We now have a low-SPR situation (SPR ~ 3). Free $50
Flop ($43.50): The blind checks. I think my line is pretty simple. I have top two pair with a gutshot and a flush draw. I am pretty much committed with the two pair alone. That said, I do not want the flop to get checked through. Action: I bet $43.50. The button raises all-in to $74.90. The blind calls. I call. I would have raised all-in if I could, but I couldn’t.
Turn ($268.20): The blind checks. The K♥ could be bad, but I don’t have much of a choice here other than to shove my last $42.25 in and give the blind a chance to fold. Action: I bet $42.25 all-in, and the blind calls.
River ($268.20 main pot, $84.50 side pot): The blind shows 9♠ 7♦ 6♠ 4♠ for a sucker 13-card wrap, and the button shows A♦ A♣ 9♦ 6♥, having flopped an overpair, the nut diamond draw, and a gutshot, and having improved to aces up. I win the side pot, but lose the main pot. Hand #21: Top Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed, one blind My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($96.25) open with a raise to $3. The button ($85.30) calls. The blind folds. Standard open. I have a three card Broadway wrap headed by a suited ace, and with a wheel card. I also have a second suit (the king-high spades) as a bonus. This is a speculative hand in multi-way pots and full-ring play, but is a relatively premium hand in short-handed play, though it is a much stronger hand with position on the blinds than out of position against the button.
Flop ($7): I bet $7. My opponent raises to $28. This is pretty much a re-raise all-in or fold situation, with a mid-highSPR situation (SPR ~ 11.7) -- judgment territory. I don’t think I am giving up a whole lot by folding here, unless I think my opponent frequently raises with air here. Action: I fold. Note for a moment the effect of position, and it is that the player with the positional advantage has greater control over pot size, and often has leverage as well. With top two pair here, I am forced to either bet, or otherwise check and risk giving a free card. My opponent in position, however, has the option to either smooth call or raise and take the hand to another level. Whereas I may have been able to call my opponent down had the positions been reversed and my opponent led into me, instead I am pretty much forced to bet out and face a tough decision with my two pair. Hand #22: Check-Raise Bluff The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed
Free $50
My position: Small Blind Free $50 My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the button ($200), who limps in. I ($131.15) raise to $4. The big blind folds. The button calls. I don’t like doing this often, but I thought I’d try it.
Flop ($9): I hit the pivot card, though there are two clubs. Betting is always an option, but at the same time, I’d like a chance to see the turn card. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($9): I picked up middle pair with the top end of a 17-card wrap -- only problem is that there are now three clubs on the board. I have mixed feelings about both betting and checking. I mean, it is hard for betting to be wrong, but there are other ways to go about this problem. I could check and take the free card if I can get it… Action: I check. My opponent bets $4.50. Or I could do something else. Basically, my opponent either has a flush or he doesn’t. Action: I raise to $15, and my opponent folds. Hand #23: Stop ‘n Go (Improvised) The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($100) open with a raise to $3.50. A loose raise UTG. Limping is generally the preferred play, as you want to keep the pot multi-way when playing out of position, particularly with speculative-class drawing hands. But again, we are not terribly deep at 100BBs max. Action: The next player folds. The cutoff ($123.05) and button ($92.50) call. The small blind folds. The big blind ($174.20) calls.
Flop ($14.50): I have the nut open-ended straight draw, but there are two spades on the board. I should probably check. Action: The big blind checks. I bet $14.50. The cutoff raises to $29, and it gets folded back to me. At this point, it is hard to fold getting 4:1. I mean, technically I’m not really getting odds to call, as I am 6.5:1 against turning the nuts (six nut straight outs, vs. 39 non-nut turn cards). But just generally speaking, it is hard to fold against a seemingly non-committal raise. Action: I call.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($72.50): This is potentially a great turn card if my opponent had the straight (7-5-x-x) or is on the draw. Action: I bet $37.50 and my opponent folds. This kind of play requires having the right mindset, as the play is made in real time. When I called on the flop during the actual hand, I didn’t even really think about the board pairing being an opportunity. That said, aggressive players are always looking for ways to win the hand. And when the opportunity presents itself, you have to be in the mindset to act on it. Hand #24: SB vs. BB Check Down The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me. I ($322.40) raise to $3. The big blind ($63.80) calls. I’ve done worse. At least the hand is double-suited.
Flop ($6): I have top pair with some draws to top two pair, and some other backdoor possibilities. I prefer to check-call here than betting and folding to a raise, or otherwise setting myself up to get floated. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($6): If I had the best hand before, I probably still have the best hand now. If I check, I am giving the free card, but if I bet, my opponent will probably fold if beaten and call if he has me beat. I don’t mind checking again. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
River ($6): Nothing’s really changed, except that I have a bigger two pair. Value-betting would be adventurous. Action: I check. My opponent checks. My opponent has A♦ J♥ 2♦ 2♣. I win.
Hand #25: Getting 3-Bet The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: I ($117.50) open with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff folds. The button ($50) re-raises to $12, and both blinds fold. I call. The button has been 3-betting pre-flop at pretty much every opportunity, and has re-loaded for 50BBs every time he has gone bust. I’d say he’s a pretty loose 3-bettor. I suppose 4-betting would be a reasonable option against this player and with his smallish stack size.
Flop ($25.50): I check. My opponent bets $25.50. I checked out of reflex. That said, I’m not so sure I don’t have the best hand with my A-Q-high, and I have four overcards. I’m not convinced my opponent bets the full pot with a hand like A-A-x-x (which has me smoked) when he only has a $38 stack (SPR 1.5). A half pot bet would seem more appropriate; meanwhile, I am ahead of a rundown type hand like J-T-9-8 or 9-8-7-6 (for example). And with an SPR of 1.5, shoving is not a terribly risky play. So let’s just say I think it’s unlikely that I am smoked by trip deuces or a big overpair like A-A-xx or K-K-x-x or Q-Q-x-x. In that case, shoving makes sense in that I wouldn’t be far behind a smaller pair; alternatively, I would be ahead of a smaller aceless (or maybe an A-J-x-x or less) rundown, a hand which could conceivably fold if my opponent gives me credit for a pair, or which I would be ahead of if called. Action: I raise and set my opponent all-in for $38 total. My opponent calls, showing Q♠ J♥ 4♥ 4♣ for a pair of fours with a flush draw.
Turn ($101.50):
River ($101.50): I win with trip tens. As it turns out, I would be a 25%/75% (3:1) dog against A♠ K♠ Q♣ J♣, a 23%/77% dog against A♠ K♠ Q♣ 4♣ (wheel draw), and a 46%/54% dog against J♥ T♣ 9♥ 8♦ for a smaller rundown with a flush draw. I would, however, be a 76%/24% favorite against J♥ T♠ 9♠ 8♦ for a rundown with no flush draw. But basically, I am a dog against any rundown containing hearts. And against a pocket pair or trips, I am in even worse shape -- I would be about a 1%/99% dog against a hand containing a deuce or against A-A-x-x, about a 14%/86% dog against K-K-x-x or Q-Qx-x unsuited, or a 7%/93% dog against K-K-x-x or Q-Q-x-x with hearts. In addition, I would be a 25%/75% dog against J-J-x-x, or a 13%/87% dog against J-J-x-x with hearts, as well as a 33%/67% dog against 7♦ 7♠ 6♦ 4♠. The gist of it is that I’d have to feel reasonably strong that my opponent has a rundown that I can beat. In the actual hand, I was a 22%/78% dog against Q♠ J♥ 4♥ 4♣ (a pair of fours with hearts), though for the sake of reference, I would have been a 39%/61% dog had my opponent not had hearts. That said, I needed roughly 37.5% equity to justify playing for stacks. This would be a much more reasonable play had I had the nut heart draw myself. Give me the A♥ instead of the A♣, and I become a 53%/47% favorite over the Q♠ J♥ 4♥ 4♣ hand, and a 55%/45% favorite against A♠ K♠ Q♣ J♣. In fact, I would only be a 37%/63% dog against A♠ A♣ Q♠ J♣. Hand #26: Middle Set The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($206.65) limps in. 7-7-2-2 is not the best two-pair hand you can have, but I don’t mind attacking the limper with it. Action: I ($234.05) raise to $4.50. The cutoff ($260.55) re-raises to $16, and it gets folded back to me.
Free $50
Free $50 I have a tough time folding for one more bet. Action: I call.
Flop ($34.50): I flopped middle set. Do I check or bet? Action: I bet $26.50. My opponent raises to $114. We are in a mid-SPR situation (SPR 6.3) -- judgment territory. That said, I think there are so many hands my opponent could have besides J-J-x-x here, including a straight draw of some persuasion, one or two pair, or perhaps even air depending on how he views my “donk” bet. He’d probably expect me to check my strong hands. Action: I re-raise all-in to $219.05 total, and my opponent calls, showing A♦ A♠ K♥ T♦.
Turn ($472.60):
River ($472.60): I win. I really like leading into the raiser strong. With the sub pot-sized bet, I’d confuse even myself. That said, my opponent messed this one up with the raise on the flop in this mid-SPR (SPR 6.3) situation. With the overpair and the pivot card, his play should have been to smooth call on the combo float. Hand #27: SB vs. BB The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to me, and I ($104) open with a raise to $3. The big blind ($69.15) calls. I probably could just as easily limped or folded.
Flop ($6): This kind of flop is part of what makes playing out of position so tricky. This is kind of a good flop for me with middle pair and an open-ended straight draw, but it could easily be a bad flop for me depending on what my opponent has. I think there’s no question I have to bet this, but there’s a lot of downside. Action: I bet $6, and my opponent calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($18): I turned the second-nut straight. This could be bad if my opponent has something like A-K-Q-x or A-Q-9-x. But at the same time, I don’t necessarily see checking as the right play, as I don’t want to give the free card, and my dilemma is not any easier if I check and my opponent bets. Also of consideration is that there are only two bets left. I think if the stacks were deeper, I would bet and fold to a raise. With these stack sizes, I should still bet, but I might be committed to calling a raise. Action: I bet $18, and my opponent calls.
River ($54): I think at this point, if my opponent has me, then he has me. There is one bet left. I may be able to get value out of a worse hand -- like 9-8-x-x for the weaker straight. Action: I set my opponent all-in for his last $45.15. He folds. Hand #28: Top-and-Bottom Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($101) open with a raise to $3.50. The button ($91.55) and small blind ($322) both call. The big blind folds. This is a bottom-range open, and unfortunately the button called behind me.
Flop ($11.50): The blind checks. I flopped top-and-bottom two pair with a sucker gutshot. There’s really only one play here. Action: I bet $11.50. The button calls, and the other player folds.
Turn ($34.50): This is a problem turn, as I am pretty much in no man’s land. If I instead had just top pair or a wrap, the clear play would be to follow through with another bet and give up if I face resistance. But with two pair, my action is not so clear. The problem with checking is that I risk getting bluffed out by a straight draw, or even by a one-pair combo float. Checking-and-calling isn’t any better than guessing, and has drawbacks even when I am “right” and my opponent does not have the flush, as I am liable to get outdrawn (by a straight draw, for example), or otherwise bluffed out if my opponent fires another shot on the river. On the other hand, if I check, my opponent may check back a weak flush and give me the free card to beat him. Really, the only sure thing here is that it sucks playing out of position. Action: I check. My opponent bets $21, and I fold.
Free $50
Hand #29: Top Pair, Check-Call, Check-Call, Check-Call Free $50 The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($191.85) open with a raise to $3.50, and only the button ($111.50) calls. Standard open from the cutoff.
Flop ($8.50): I flopped top pair. If I bet, I don’t rate to get much action from a hand worse than mine, whereas a check may induce a bet. Meanwhile, checking-andcalling serves to deflect any possible bluff raise attempt, while keeping the pot size down. The downside is that I risk giving a free card. Action: I check. My opponent checks. Ok.
Turn ($8.50): I could bet this. Or I could continue the check-call operation. Action: I check. My opponent bets $8.50. I call.
River ($25.50): There’s little value in betting naked top pair. Meanwhile, my opponent may bet hands I can beat (like air). That said, my two main choices are to put in a blocking bet, or check and try to induce another bet from my opponent. I think the fact that I am extremely unlikely to be able to draw a call from a hand that I can beat if I bet dictates that checking-and-calling is the superior play. Action: I check. My opponent bets $25.50. I call. My opponent shows T♠ 7♦ 5♠ 4♠ for a busted straight draw. Hand #30: Underpair, Gutshot, Attacking the Limper OOP The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($73.80) limps in, and it gets folded around to me. I ($100) raise to $3.50, and the UTG player calls. I have a premium-class hand, though the pair weakens the hand when playing out of position. I could just as easily have checked and seen the flop. On the other hand, my opponent’s 74BB stack does not scare me.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($7.50): I have a gutshot and set draw. My choice here is mainly between c-betting and trying to win the pot outright, or checking-and-folding. Action: I bet $7.50, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($22.50): The spade draw may add some value to my hand. This is kind of a tricky spot where if I check, my draw is probably too weak to call, but if instead I follow through with another bet, I can continue to represent a strong ace (like A-A-x-x), a straight, or whatever it takes to make my opponent fold if he has a weak ace himself. If instead he is on the straight draw, I may even have him beat. The other consideration is stack size, where if I bet, my opponent has less than a pot-sized bet left to raise me. This is real gray area. My preference is to bet and try to take the pot down, and probably suck it up, and call and pray if I get raised. Action: I bet $22.50, and my opponent folds. Hand #31: Triple Barrel Whoops The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max, deep), five-handed, one blind My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($200) raise to $3, and only the cutoff ($248.65) calls. This is a loose open from the hijack, and a poor result.
Flop ($7): I have no hand, no draw. Action: I bet $4, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($15): I picked up a wrap, which may be live if my opponent has a bare ace. Meanwhile, my opponent may be willing to fold a weak ace to a second bet. Action: I bet $12, and my opponent calls. Whoops.
River ($39):
Free $50
Free $50 Well, I can’t win by checking. That said, if my opponent indeed just has a bare ace, maybe the flush card might scare him? Action: I bet $25.50, and my opponent calls, showing A♥ J♦ J♣ 4♦, which beats queen-high. Gutsy play on the part of my opponent, I suppose. Either that, or he could just be a donkey (I love that line). Hand #32: Attacking the Limper from the Big Blind The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($130.55) limps in, and it gets folded to me. I ($330.30) raise to $3.50, and the limper calls. I just wanted to jack the pot with a premium drawing hand, even with the three hearts.
Flop ($7.50): I have top pair and overs. I could bet and risk bloating the pot, or I could check and call. Action: I check. My opponent bets $7, and I call.
Turn ($21.50): Same deal. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
River ($21.50): This is one of those spots where I’d rather bet myself than check and let my opponent make a bet I don’t want to call. Action: I bet $8.50 and my opponent folds. Hand #33: Top Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($430.35) open with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff ($98) calls. The button and small blind fold. The big blind ($139.35) calls. A loose open from UTG. Not recommended from here.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($11): The blind checks. Three-way with top pair and a player to act behind me, I think I have to bet my hand here. I am not as comfortable giving a free card with Q-J-9-4 for top pair as I am with A-K-Q-J for top pair, as the latter hand is less likely to be outdrawn. Action: I bet $11. The player behind me calls. The blind now raises to $55. We have an SPR > 12 between me and the blind -- a high mid-SPR situation. Meanwhile, the blind check-raised into a bet and call, signaling real strength. It would be a mistake in aggregate to continue with bare top pair. Action: I fold. Note that had I had position and had the pot been 3-way, I would have had the option to check this flop. I know that sounds ridiculous in the sense that it’s a bit like saying that if I had had J-J-x-x, it would have been OK to continue. But what I am saying is that I put myself in this position by raising with this hand UTG. If instead I limit my raises with this hand to when I am in late position (preferably the button) and nobody has entered the pot in front of me, this type of situation doesn’t come up as often. And if instead I shorten up my open-raise range from UTG, I will more often have a hand I am comfortable checking this flop with. Hand #34: Top Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($145.55) open with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff ($61.90) calls. The button and small blind fold. The big blind ($288.60) calls.
Flop ($11): The big blind checks. I bet $11. The cutoff folds. The big blind raises to $44. I call. With an SPR just under 13 -- basically a high-SPR situation -- this probably should be folded, though I do have a nut gutshot. That said, I am basically guessing that my opponent is on the draw (flush and/or straight).
Turn ($99): My opponent checks. I caught a good (or bad) card, giving me the underfull. That said, betting is probably the wrong play, because if my opponent is on the draw, he will probably fold, and if I get more than one bet from my opponent it would probably mean that he has Q-Q-x-x. The play is to check behind, and give my opponent a chance to put money in on the river, either on the bluff (if he misses whatever he is drawing at), or for value or as a bluff catcher (if he hits something). Action: I check.
River ($99): My opponent bets $38. This is an interesting decision point, because now both the flush and straight card hit. Raising is probably incorrect because if I do so, my opponent will realize that I checked back the turn because I filled up, and will probably fold anything I can beat. Just about the only thing I can raise here and expect to get called with is Q-Q-x-x -- which obviously beats me -- or maybe Q-9-x-x for a split. But at the same time, I can’t fold for one bet, because I don’t necessarily give my opponent credit for Q-Q-x-x, either.
Free $50
Free $50 Action: I call. My opponent shows A♦ T♠ 6♠ 5♦ for a flush. I win. Hand #35: Getting 3-Bet The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($156.95) open with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff folds. The button ($256.95) re-raises to $12. Both blinds fold. I call.
Flop ($25.50): I suspect my opponent’s 3-betting range includes a bunch of hands that don’t contain an ace. I have both an ace and a gutshot. That said, if I bet here, my opponent will likely just fold if he can’t beat an ace but call or raise if he can. In addition, with an SPR of about 6 (in judgment territory), I don’t feel all that comfortable playing for stacks. The play is to check and see what my opponent does. Action: I check. My opponent bets $20. I call.
Turn ($65.50): I check. My opponent checks. The check-call with top pair on the flop has an interesting effect in that it looks the same to my opponent as if I was on the flush draw, which would have hit the turn had I had it. There’s an interesting dynamic in these spots, where the player out of position with the marginal hand is worried about getting run over, while the player with the initiative in position is constantly concerned with avoiding getting sandbagged or bluff-raised. The result is that flush cards appearing often leads to hands getting checked down.
River ($65.50): I made the second-nut straight, which is probably a bluff catcher at best. Action: I check. My opponent checks. My opponent shows K♠ K♥ 7♠ 7♣. Hand #36: Check-Raise Bluff The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($132.80) open with a raise to $3.50. The hijack ($172) calls, but everybody else folds.
Flop ($8.50):
Free $50
Free $50 I have the third-nut flush draw and four overcards on a well-coordinated flop. I think check-calling or check-folding both sound better than betting out and folding to a raise. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($8.50): I could bet this. However, I don’t want to bet out and get bluff-raised in a situation where I probably have a lot of live outs, and where my opponent has to know that it is unlikely (though maybe not impossible) for me to have trip eights or better here. Action: I check. My opponent bets $8.50. Now my opponent betting is another matter, because he is more likely to be full of shit than he is to have checked an eight on the flop. Acton: I raise to $26. My opponent folds. Hand #37: Overpair, Trips The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($176.60) calls. I have a premium hand with position on the limper in addition to the blinds. This is a raising situation, where raising is virtually all-purpose in the sense that I could potentially isolate the limper while building the pot for value, or otherwise build the pot with a premium hand in a multi-way pot. Action: I ($100) raise to $4.50. The cutoff ($87.30) calls. The button, both blinds, and the UTG player all fold. This is an outcome I did not anticipate. Now I am heads up and out of position, which is suboptimal. I still have a pretty strong hand to fall back on, however.
Flop ($11.50): This is a good spot to check-call with the overpair. I don’t really want to bet out and bloat the pot. In addition, if I check, my opponent will bet a lot of hands (like air) that he might fold if I bet. Action: I check. My opponent checks behind.
Turn ($11.50): Another good card to check, as I now have kings-up. Again, if I check, my opponent will bet a lot of hands he might fold if I bet. Action: I check. My opponent bets $5. I call.
River ($21.50): Well, now I have the nut trips. This is an interesting problem. I think my opponent most likely has air, and he has to know that I have at least an overpair. If I bet, he will most likely fold, whereas if I check and he has air as I suspect, he may bet and try to represent the trip jacks that I have. Free $50
Free $50 Action: I check. My opponent checks with A♦ 9♦ 6♣ 5♣ for trips sixes. Ok, so that’s not what I expected. That said, with his hand I would probably have value-bet the river, because from his perspective he should give me credit for an overpair, which is enough to pick off a bluff. And in retrospect, another alternative from my end would be to have put in a small token value bet that looks like a blocking bet and hope to induce a bluff raise. Hand #38: Trips The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The first two players fold. I ($355.80) open with a raise to $3.50, and only the button ($48.90) calls.
Flop ($8.50): This is a check-call scenario. I don’t want to bloat the pot with dry trips, and my opponent will often bet hands (air) if I check that he would otherwise fold if I bet. Action: I check. My opponent bets $4. I call.
Turn ($16.50): The situation remains the same. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
River ($16.50): I’m still in check-call mode. I can really only value bet if I give my opponent credit for trip aces, as my opponent is not likely calling with less. But then even if I give my opponent credit for trip aces, I should still not be value-betting, as it is not that easy for my opponent to have bare trip aces and a worse kicker, either. Action: I check. My opponent checks, showing Q♥ T♣ 8♣ 8♠. I win. Hand #39: Nut Flush Draw, Nut Straight The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($125.10) open with a raise to $3.50. Only the button ($148.40) calls. I think this hand -- a Broadway wrap hand with a suited ace -- is good enough to open with from the hijack in most games, despite the three diamonds.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($8.50): Sitting this deep (SPR 14.3), the play is to check and call with the nut flush draw, as I do not want to bet and get raised out of the pot. Note that a lot of help could arrive on the turn in addition to a diamond. An ace, king, or queen, would give me top pair and a nut gutshot with the nut flush draw, while a nine would give me a gutshot. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($8.50): Having picked up the nut gutshot to go with the nut flush draw, the play is to bet. Action: I bet $8.50. My opponent calls. I would guess my opponent to have some sort of straight draw, probably Q-J-x-x or so.
River ($25.50): I made the nut straight. I don’t see checking as a truly viable option, as I expect my opponent would simply check back anything less than a straight, where there is a possibility that I could get my opponent to call a bet with something like two pair or a sucker straight. The real question is how much to bet, and the answer really depends on what I think of my opponent. If I think he would call a token bet in the $5-$10 range with two pair but fold for $15-$25.50, then I think a token bet is probably the best bet. But if I think my opponent is the type that would read a $15-$20 bet as a follow through bluff but a $5-$10 or $25.50 (pot-sized) bet as a value bet (for example, the type of player that knows that I use token bets), then it might be more appropriate to make the $15-$20 bet if he is more likely to interpret that as a bluff. Without really knowing anything about this opponent, it is really hard to say what bet size is most appropriate. That said, because of the possibility that my opponent made a non-nut straight and may be willing to call, I would lean towards putting in a bigger bet. Action: I bet $19. My opponent folds. Hand #40: Top Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed, one blind My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($334.35) open with a raise to $3. The button ($16) calls. The big blind ($112.90) calls.
Flop ($9): The blind checks. I don’t normally check top two (or three) pair on the flop, and a 3-way pot is probably not the spot to do it. Having a player behind me also takes away some of my flexibility. My only real choice is to bet. Action: I bet $9. The button folds. The blind raises to $36. This is a tough spot. This is a mid-high-SPR situation with an SPR of about 12, which puts us in judgment territory. In the absence of possible flush draws and on a flop with two big cards that -- from my opponent’s perspective -- could easily hit me square in the face, I am going to guess that he is not bluffing and give him credit for K-K-x-x, Q-Q-x-x, or maybe a wrap like A-J-T-x. Worse, I have no re-draw, so I am basically running with a naked two pair.
Free $50
There are better spots to get my money in. Free $50 Action: I fold. Hand #41: Middle Set The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($407.15) open with a raise to $7. The button ($173.40) and small blind ($362) call. The big blind folds. Standard open in position with a premium pair-plus hand.
Flop ($23): The small blind checks. I don’t see myself checking middle set here very often, if ever. Action: I bet $23. The button calls. The small blind now raises to $70. This is a tricky spot, as we are in high-SPR situation (SPR 15) on a board with possible big draws on it. On the other hand, my opponent has made a rather smallish raise, which could be a response to my c-bet. But on the third hand, he is not likely bluffing, given that there is another player in the pot who has already called my bet. Add it all up, and I should probably fold in this small-favorite/big-dog type situation. Action: I call. The button folds. I just wasn’t convinced he had me beat. The other thought is that with the other player in the pot, wouldn’t you want to bet the max with top set? Maybe or maybe not. I guess you can’t make too many assumptions about how other people think.
Turn ($186): My opponent bets $186. Having called the raise on the flop, I have pretty much decided to go with it. Action: I raise all-in. My opponent calls all-in for $285 total, showing A♠ Q♥ T♣ 8♠ for top pair with the nut flush draw and a nut gutter.
River ($756): I win. I dodged one there. In retrospect, I think folding the flop is probably the percentage play. Hand #42: Bottom Two Pair The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($526.90) open with a raise to $7, and only the button ($217) calls.
Free $50
This is not the desired result. Free $50
Flop ($17): I have an enigma, where I don’t want to bloat the pot with bottom two pair, but at the same time, I am easily outdrawn even when ahead, and I want to end the pot right here. There’s not much upside, but a lot of downside when playing out of position. Action: I check. My opponent bets $14, and I call.
Turn ($45): Sweet. I’m saved! I think. Now, unless I somehow give my opponent credit for an overpair (something he could call a bet with that I can beat), the clear play is to check to induce a follow through bet. Action: I check. My opponent bets $30, and I call.
River ($105): My problem is that I can only guess about what my opponent has, which means that I can only guess about how my opponent will react. At this point, he could have any four cards. The one thing I do know is that my opponent has to give me credit for at least a jack, if not an overpair like A-A-x-x, K-K-x-x (which is now the overfull), or Q-Q-x-x. My view is that given the way the hand has played out, my opponent is much more likely to have air than to have something to call me with that I can beat if I bet. Because even if he had something like top pair on the flop, he is unlikely to call a bet on the river. Just about the only thing that he could call with would be backdoor clubs, which is unlikely. I’m inclined to give my opponent the opportunity to bet air if he has it. Action: I check. My opponent checks, and shows A♦ A♥ 7♣ 4♦ for aces up. I win. Not the most likely hand for my opponent to have. Hand #43: Getting 3-Bet, Flopping Flush The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $7. I’m OK limping in with this hand as well. That said, stack size is a consideration here: The cutoff and button had $85.65 and $210.40 stacks, respectively, while the blinds are considerably deeper with $929.65 and $474.50 stacks. Really, what I am doing is setting myself up to play a bigger pot against the deep-stacked blinds, while the guys behind me don’t concern me as much. Action: The cutoff ($85.65) re-raises to $24, and it gets folded back to me. I call. Well, I’m not folding.
Flop ($51): I think this is a good flop. That said, with an SPR of just over 1, the only play is to check and let my opponent commit. Action: I check. My opponent bets $51. Of course I could raise. But with only another $10.65 left to play, the main thing to realize is that I am pot-committed no matter what comes, and so there are no scare cards for me. My problem is just figuring out how to get my opponent to commit his last $10.65 when behind. Action: I call.
Turn ($153): I check. My opponent checks.
River ($153): I set my opponent all-in for his last $10.65. He folds. Whatever. Hand #44: Top Two Pair, Nut Flush Draw, and Nut Gutshot The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($327.75) calls. It gets folded to the small blind ($252.60), who calls. I ($217.35) raise to $4. Both opponents call. I couldn’t help but juice the pot a little. Sure, I probably could have raised a little more, but I prefer keeping the pot multi-way to playing the hand heads up out of position.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($12): Sweetness. I have top two pair, the nut flush draw, and a nut gutshot. I am going to bet the crap out of it. Action: The small blind checks. I bet $12. The UTG player raises to $48. The small blind folds. Well, I am not going anywhere with the nut flush draw and the nut gutshot. The question is whether I should re-raise here or just call and commit to a nonboard pairing (or rather non-four) card on the turn. And I think the answer is that the latter option in this case would probably be ridiculous, as there are five cards maximum (two tens and three fours) that could possibly be really bad, and I am probably not going anywhere if a ten hits.
I am well ahead of any draw or two pair, am only a small dog against middle set with a straight draw, and am a substantial favorite against bare bottom set. Really, the only hand I don’t want to see is top set, which also happens to be the least likely. It’s worth noting that there’s actually only about a half a percentage difference between K♠ Q♥ J♣ J♦ and K♣ Q♥ J♣ J♦, in favor of the hand with the flush draw. That said, I think the play here is to re-raise in order to: a. Suck out value from my opponent if he has two pair or is on the draw b. Try to bluff out my opponent if he has middle or bottom set (or accept his challenge with bottom set). Action: I re-raise to $156. The UTG player re-raises all-in. I call for $57.35 more. My opponent shows T♥ 4♠ 4♦ 2♦ for bottom set. I am a 54%/46% favorite here against that bottom set. He does have the T♥ blocker against my bigger full house draw.
Turn ($438.70):
River ($438.70): I lose. Hand #45: Getting 3-Bet The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: I ($200) open with a raise to $7. The hijack ($114.55) re-raises to $24, and it gets folded back to me. I call. I might have been tilting a little bit to open with this from UTG, but I cannot fold to the 3-bet.
Flop ($51): I have top-and-bottom two pair, the nut open-ended straight draw, and a flush draw. Meanwhile, my opponent only has $90.55 left. I am definitely committed to going all the way. That said, the first question is whether or not I should lead out or go for a check-raise; question 1a is if I do lead out, how much should I bet? I could go for a check-raise, but I like leading out. That said, I want to bet an amount that commits myself to the pot, but is small enough to give my opponent room to shove light. In other words, I don’t want to bet $10, because my opponent cannot raise all-in; and I don’t want to bet the full $51, because it looks too committal. It needs to look like a weak lead. Action: I bet $36. My opponent raises all-in to $90.55. I call. My opponent shows A♣ A♥ 5♣ 4♠ for a dry pair of aces. I am an 82%/18% favorite.
Turn ($232.10):
River ($232.10): I win with the straight. Hand #46: Delayed C-Bet The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. J-9-8-6 (rundown with top and bottom gap) with a suit is not a premium-class hand, and so the value in raising really depends on how often it enables you to play heads up against the blinds. Action: I ($315.10) raise to $7. The cutoff folds. The button ($46) calls. Both blinds fold. Mission failed.
Flop ($17): I check. My opponent checks. I could just as easily have c-bet, but decided to check the gutshot. Checking becomes a stronger play against opponents who will give you credit for top pair -- or perhaps better -- when you check to them after raising pre-flop. These opponents are generally the type that would check top pair or an overpair Free $50 (or better) themselves after raising pre-flop.
Free $50
Betting is probably more appropriate against weaker opponents.
Turn ($17): The board pairing is a signal to bet, as my opponent is not likely to have anything given his inaction on the flop. Action: I bet $10 and my opponent folds. Hand #47: Queens The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. Sub-premium queens dictate a limp. Being double-suited does not in itself make Q-Q-x-x a premium hand. Action: I ($205.35) limp in. The button ($213.60) and small blind ($65.80) both limp, and the big blind ($717.30) checks.
Flop ($8): Top set. Ram and jam. Action: Both blinds check. I bet $8. The button raises to $26. The small blind re-raises to $63.80 all-in, and the big blind folds. I re-raise to $203.35 all-in, and the button folds. The small blind shows Q♦ 7♥ 6♣ 4♣ for top two pair with a gutshot, drawing dead to a gutshot, running clubs, or running sixes.
Turn ($161.60): My opponent is now drawing dead to a five.
River ($161.60): Of course. Hand #48: Top Pair, Nut Flush Draw The game: $1-$2 (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $7. Semi-loose open from the hijack. Action: The cutoff folds. The button ($174.05) calls. The small blind folds. The big blind ($181) re-raises to $29.
Free $50
Free $50 Personally, I have difficulty folding for one more bet against a 3-bet -- even with a hand with an ace in it, and particularly when I have position on the 3bettor. Recall from our discussion on “The Nut Flush Draw” in Part II of APLO Vol. I, that the bare nut flush draw is basically not going to be worse than 3:2 against A-A-x-x (if this seem higher than you might think, it is because of the extra two pair, trips and other draw possibilities present in Omaha, and because the extra two cards in your hand and the presence of the A-A in your opponent’s hand mean that there are four fewer non-outs accounted for in the deck), and I am pretty much going to be pot-committed with it in a low-SPR situation. What probably pushes this toward a fold is that the player behind me could potentially put in another raise, and the one thing I really want to avoid is playing for stacks pre-flop, because that would amount to little more than gambling at best. The better play is probably to fold. Action: I call. The button calls.
Flop ($88): The big blind checks. Bingo(ish). I flopped top pair with the nut flush draw in a low-SPR situation (SPR < 1.75 against both opponents), and the blind has checked. I am going all the way. Action: I bet $88, and the button calls. The big blind raises all-in for $152 total. I call, and the button calls. The blind shows A♦ A♠ Q♦ 8♣. The button shows K♦ J♣ 9♣ 6♦.
Turn (Main pot: $523.15, Side pot: $13.90):
River (Main pot: $523.15, Side pot: $13.90): For reference, the pre-flop equity was 37% for the A-Ax-x hand, 33% for the K-J-9-6 hand, and 30% for my hand. I improved to 51% equity on the flop for the main pot, to 29% for the K-J-9-6 hand with the wrap, and 20% for the A-A-x-x hand. For the side pot against the A-A-x-x hand, I had a 53%/47% equity edge. Heads up against the A-A-x-x hand pre-flop, I was at a 37%/64% give-or-take (rounding error) disadvantage.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Deep Stack Ante Games
Hand #49: A-7-5-4 The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($287.55) open with a raise to $4.70. The button ($152.70) calls. The small blind folds. The big blind ($363.55) calls. Loose open without the suited ace.
Flop ($15.80): The big blind checks. This flop hit me pretty square, giving me the middle pair and an openended straight draw. I can venture a bet. Action: I bet $15.80. The button folds, but the big blind calls.
Turn ($47.40): My opponent checks. I bet $47.40, and my opponent calls. Standard follow through.
River ($142.20): My opponent checks. The obvious straight (7-8-x-x) hit, while other straights are now possible as well. That said, I have enough to show down with the two pair, though I can’t figure they are good. Action: I check. My opponent shows T♦ 8♥ 4♠ 2♠ for two pairs, tens and fours. He might have been calling the flop planning to bluff the turn. Or he might just be a donkey. Some jokes are just worth repeating. Hand #50: Top Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($240.15) open with a raise to $4.50, and the cutoff ($94.55), button ($263.90), small blind ($113.20), and big blind ($154.95) all call. Standard open with a near- premium-class drawing hand. I don’t mind five-way pots.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($23.50): The small blind checks. The big blind bets $11.75. I flopped top two pair with an openended straight draw. However, I am facing a bet, and there are two players left to act behind me, plus the small blind as well. Moreover, in addition to the straight possibility, there is also a 13-card nut wrap possibility, as well as flush draws. So even if by chance my two pair is best, I am easily outdrawn, and I do not close the action. This should be a clear fold. Action: I fold. The cutoff calls. The button folds. The small blind calls.
Turn ($58.75): The first player bets $58.75. The next player folds, but the last player calls.
River ($176.25): The first player bets $38 all-in, and the other player folds. Hand #51: Cutoff The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($278.75) open with a raise to $4.50, and only the button ($235.35) calls. This is an OK open UTG.
Flop ($11.50): I flopped a double-gutter, though only one way to the nuts. I don’t want to bet out and get raised. I could use a free card if I can get it. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($11.50): I now have top pair and a flush draw, and my opponent hasn’t acted like he has anything. Action: I bet $11.50, and my opponent calls.
River ($34.50):
Free $50
At this point, I may very well have the best hand. A value bet would be enterprising, but of dubious value. On the other hand, there is the possibility that my Free $50 opponent was on the flush draw, which he might bet if I check. Action: I check. My opponent checks, showing K♦ K♣ 9♥ 7♦. I win. Hand #52: Undertrips The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($562.60) open with a raise to $4.70. The cutoff ($192.10), button ($181.10), small blind ($218.80), and big blind ($190.35) all call. Whoops.
Flop ($24.70): The small blind checks. The big blind bets $20. I can beat a bluff with my undertrips, but that’s about all I can beat. In this four-way pot with two players still in the hand behind me (the button and small blind), I am probably best off giving this hand up. Action: I fold. The cutoff calls. The button folds. The small blind calls. I’m curious what everybody else has.
Turn ($84.70): Both blinds check. The last player bets $42.35. The small blind folds, but the big blind calls.
River ($169.40): The big blind checks. The other player bets $84.70, and the big blind folds. I’m gonna guess that the big blind had the case five, and that the cutoff had 8-8-x-x. Hand #53: 7-6-4-2 The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($289.75) limp in. 7-6-4-2 with a suit is a speculative-class wrap hand with 16-card nut wrap potential. In a tougher game, I might fold this up front, but otherwise I’d like to limp in and keep the pot multi-way, and see a cheap flop if possible. Action: The next player ($119.80) limps in. The cutoff folds. The button ($411.30) and small blind ($274.15) both call. The big blind ($191) checks.
Flop ($6.20): Both blinds check.
Free $50
Free $50 I have bottom pair, a nut gutshot and small clubs. That said, with only one player left to act behind me, I am in position to bet my overall marginal hand. Action: I bet $6.20. The next player folds, but the button and small blind both call. The big blind folds.
Turn ($24.80): The small blind checks. I have the initiative, and the J♠ is unlikely to have materially helped anybody. Action: I bet $24.80, and both opponents fold. The Betting Machine. Hand #54: Straight Board Flop, Two Pair and Dry King Turn The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($592.90) open with a raise to $8.20. The button ($404.20) calls. The small blind folds. The big blind ($403.90) calls. Standard.
Flop ($26.80): The big blind checks. This is obviously not a good flop for me, and I don’t see how I can bet it. Action: I check, and the button checks.
Turn ($26.80): The big blind checks. Well, now I have top two pair and the dry king of hearts, which happens to be the nut card. I may very well have the best hand, but I also have outs if behind. I should bet here on the all-purpose semi-bluff for protection, or whatever you want to call it. Action: I bet $19, and both opponents fold. Hand #55: A-A-x-x, Straight Flush River The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: I ($764.20) open with a raise to $8.80, and only the button ($227.70) and big blind ($400) call. This is a bit of a ‘tweener’ as far as A-A-x-x hands go. In position, double-suited aces are automatic raises. Out of position, double-suited aces are more speculative without connectors to go with them. That said, not only does the dead money from the antes provides extra incentive to put in a raise, but so do the stack sizes -- I am over 380BBs deep, and the players in the blinds are 200BBs deep to over 800BBs deep, while the players behind me are relatively shallow. My play is aimed at the blinds.
Flop ($29.20): The big blind checks. I have aces up with the nut flush draw and a gutshot straight draw. The play is to check: I don’t fear giving a free card, and I don’t rate to get more than one, maybe two bets of value if I bet. Action: I check. The button bets $20. The big blind calls. This is a poker situation where you have to see the situation from both opponents’ perspectives. The button will often be on the steal here, while the big blind has to know that the button is often on the steal. And if I figure the button for air and the big blind for an overpair, then I have to figure my aces are good. Action: I call.
Turn ($89.20): The big blind checks. The situation hasn’t really changed, as I am not getting value if I bet. If I bet and do get action, it probably means that the big blind can beat A-A-x-x. Action: I check. The button checks.
River ($89.20): The big blind checks. I rivered the straight flush. At this point, I am unlikely to get called if I bet, as the board is paired and I have the nut flush. Meanwhile, the one guy who could have had anything on the flop -- the big blind -- has checked, and so he is unlikely to have a full house. So the big blind is weak, and I think the button most likely has air. The question now is how the button will act. If I check, will he bet? Maybe. If I bet, will he shove and try to act like he flopped a boat? Maybe. I think the safe play is to bet my hand and hope the button shoves. The next question is bet size. That said, I need to size my bet so that the button’s play is to shove all-in with his $198.60 stack. This means I need to bet big enough that the button can shove all-in, but small enough so that he can think his shove will have some meat and some chance of success.
Free $50
Action: I bet $59. The button shoves all-in for $198.60 total. The big blind folds. I call. My opponent shows Q♠ Q♥ T♠ 7♠ for queens up. Queens Up < Free $50 Straight Flush. Yeah. So he actually had an overpair himself on the flop. I think he checks that river if I check, but he turned his hand into a bluff when I bet the flush. Hand #56: XXX The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), three-handed My position: Small Blind My hand: X-X-X-X
We’re going to do something a little different with this hand. For this hand, you get to see the hand from the villain’s perspective. Pre-flop: The button folds. I ($409.65) raise to $6.90, and the big blind ($429.95) calls with 9♦ 8♠ 8♣ 6♠.
Flop ($14.70): The villain has a set of eights with a flush draw. Action: I bet $14.70. Vader raises to $40. I call.
Turn ($94.70): I bet $94.70, and Vader calls.
River ($284.10): I bet $267.75 all-in. I don’t see how the villain can possibly lay this down, because it’s obvious that I have the blockers and not the straight, because obviously I would re-raise the flop with the straight even though there are two spades on the board, and I was obviously drawing at the backdoor diamonds on the flop and missed. Action: Vader calls with his set of eights. My actual hand was K♦ K♣ T♥ T♠. Next time the K♥, J♣, J♥, or J♦ will hit the river. Excuse a guy for being creative. Hand #57: Nut Gutshot The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: The cutoff posts a dead small blind and a big blind. I have a premium-class drawing hand, though it would be nice if the ace were suited. The cutoff posting a dead small and an extra big blind provides extra incentive to put in a raise. Also note the stack sizes -- the two blinds are about 225BBs and 250BBs deep, while the two players behind me are 50BBs and 115BBs deep. Again, I am very much targeting the blinds here. Action: I ($987.10) open with a raise to $11.50. The cutoff ($100) calls. The button and small blind fold, but the big blind ($449.05) calls.
Flop ($38): The big blind bets $33.30. I have a gutshot, but the big blind says he has the straight, and I am inclined to believe him given this flop -- it is too easy for somebody to have J-T-x-x -and there is a third player in the pot. This is not a good floating opportunity. Action: I fold, and the other player folds. Hand #58: A-A-x-x, Flopping Top Set The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($883.80) limp in UTG. Without a suited ace, this is not a premium-class A-A-x-x hand but rather a speculative one, which dictates a limp from UTG. It’s important to note that the presence of the antes does not make up for the weakness of my hand and my position. Raising here is a mistake where I will be an extra bad position after the flop if I get called by the cutoff or button, as my hand is too dependent on flopping a set to have any value after the flop. Regarding stack sizes, this situation is about the same as in the previous hand, and in fact this hand is from the same game. Still, the players behind me Free $50 are deep enough that I don’want to play them from out of position. Meanwhile, this A-A-x-x hand is still a small pot hand.
Free $50
Action: The cutoff ($126.90) and button ($236.10) both limp in. The small blind folds, and the big blind ($453.25) checks. This is a good outcome. A multi-way pot is preferred when playing out of position.
Flop ($10.50): The big blind checks. I bet $10.50. The cutoff raises to $23, and it gets folded back to me. I’ve gotten the action that I wanted with my top set. Now the question is how to play it in this high mid-SPR situation (SPR 12). The answer depends on what I think my opponent has. He could conceivably have air. He could also have middle or bottom set, or top two pair and just want to see where he is at. If my opponent has a made hand, then he has clearly made a mistake by raising. But at the same time, his near-min-raise seems non-committal -- as if he just wants to see where he is at -- and I don’t want to risk losing him by re-raising. On the other hand, if I think my opponent has a draw, then re-raising is probably the best play. But then again, I don’t necessarily see him making such a small raise on the draw. Action: I call.
Turn ($56.50): Well, if my opponent has air, then I should generally check and give him a chance to follow through. Action: I check. My opponent bets $42. I raise and set my opponent all-in for $101.60 total. My opponent calls, showing K♣ K♥ T♠ 4♦. So he had middle set on the flop. I don’t know that the result would have been any different, but his play on the flop should have been to smooth call.
River ($259.70): I win as planned. Hand #59: Getting 3-Bet, Nut Flush Draw on Ace-High Board The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($722.80) open with a raise to $8.50. The button ($167.40) re-raises to $15, and both blinds fold. I call. Standard.
Flop ($34.50): I have the nut flush draw, and the SPR is 4.4, for a lowish-SPR situation. Leading out is not the right play, as I don’t want to only get action by an ace. But if I check, I expect my opponent to follow through with a c-bet, and his range would be virtually any four cards. In that case, I pick up an extra bet when he doesn’t have anything, but settle for gambling if he does. My play is to check-raise. Action: I check. My opponent bets $30. I raise to $124.50, and my opponent folds.
Free $50
Hand #60: Check-Fold Free $50 The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. K-T-8-7 with a suit is generally a loose open from the hijack, but stack sizes are a consideration here. Both players behind me have relatively small stacks at $134.30 and $119.45 each, while the blinds have deep stacks at $434.60 and $2,056.10. As a result, there is little risk in raising here and getting called by the players behind me, while I may have the opportunity to play with position on the deep-stacked blinds. Action: I ($830.80) open with a raise to $8.80, and only the button ($119.45) and big blind ($2,056.10) call.
Flop ($29.20): The big blind checks. I could bet, but this is not the best flop to bet at, as it is too easy for one of the other players to have either an ace or a queen, if not both. I’m inclined to check and hope for a free card and help. Action: I check. The button bets $18. The big blind folds. He can have this one. Action: I fold. Hand #61: Getting 3-Bet The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($400) open with a raise to $8.20. The button ($400) re-raises to $28.80, and both blinds fold. I call. This is standard playing four-handed. There is only one play from UTG four-handed with a suited ace and connectors, and with antes.
Flop ($61.80):
Free $50
I flopped $50 bottom pair. The SPR is 6, and my play is not too clear. That said, I am inclined to check-raise here. Free Action: I check. My opponent checks. OK.
Turn ($61.80): I turned top-and-bottom two pair. If I bet, I risk bloating the pot and being in a tough position on the river; if I check, my opponent may bet air. Action: I check. My opponent best $46. I call.
River ($153.80): I now have a better two pair, but I don’t see much value in betting. The obvious straight card hit. Meanwhile, my opponent could easily have A-8-x-x given the way the hand has been played, and I don’t see him calling with much less. Action: I check. My opponent checks, showing K♠ K♣ 7♠ 2♠. I win. My opponent made a mistake in bloating the pot pre-flop with the dry kings. If instead my opponent flat calls with the dry kings, there is no reason for him to check back the flop. I’m not saying the outcome would have been any different -- only that the dynamic would have been different. Hand #62: 9-8-7-5 Multi-Way The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to me, and I ($571.70) open with a raise to $8.80. The button ($831.20) and small blind ($385) call. The big blind folds.
Flop ($30.20): The first player checks. I have a gutshot. That said, checking isn’t necessarily akin to giving up, where I can faithfully represent A-A-x-x. Action: I check. The last player checks.
Turn ($30.20): The first player checks. I picked up the top pair and a flush draw. I should not check twice. Action: I bet $20. The button calls, and the other player folds.
River ($70.20): Well, I am clearly not winning. My only chance is to bet and hope to get my opponent to fold a weak pair.
Free $50
Free $50 Action: I bet $40, and my opponent calls, showing A♦ A♣ K♦ 3♠ for trip threes, having flopped aces up. Ok, nice hand. Hand #63: Top Pair, Nut Flush Draw The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. I ($811.70) raise to $18.50, and only the cutoff ($519.90) and small blind ($894.50) call. Standard open with the Broadway wrap hand with a suited ace and a wheel card. This table situation is also favorable to raises from the hijack seat.
Flop ($64): The small blind checks. I have top pair with the nut flush draw. I’m not checking. Action: I bet $42. The cutoff folds, but the small blind calls.
Turn ($148): My opponent checks. I bet $148, and my opponent folds. Another use of the two-thirds pot c-bet and pot-sized turn bet. Hand #64: SB vs. BB The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to me, and I ($1,464.30) open with a raise to $15.75. The big blind ($425.85) calls. Standard with a premium A-A-x-x hand, despite the three spades.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($35.25): This is a tough flop to bet. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($35.25): The board pairing fours is good for me. Action: I bet $16 and my opponent folds. My opponent lost this hand more than I won it. He should have bet the flop.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Part VI: 3-Betting in Position vs. Small Ball Facing a raise in position -- flat call or 3-bet?
Part VI: 3-Betting in Position vs. Small Ball deals with situations in which you are facing a raise before the flop, and have the positional advantage on the pre-flop raiser. Do you 3-bet, or call and play Small Ball? Hand #1: 3-Betting BB vs. SB The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded around to the small blind ($396), who opens with a raise to $8. K-J-T-5 with a suit is ordinarily a Small Ball hand, but BB vs. SB matchups are fundamentally different; on the one hand, I am guaranteed to be heads up with the positional advantage, and as such there is less incentive to 3-bet, considering that I don’t have to knock out the blinds, as I would if I were on the button facing a raise. On the other hand, my hand also has more value since I am guaranteed to be heads up with the positional advantage. Meanwhile, I don’t fear a 4-bet from the small blind, since we still have some room to play, and because I never really fear a 4-bet when I am in position with an unpaired hand, anyway. Action: I ($400) re-raise to $24, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($48): My opponent checks. The standard action is to follow through with a c-bet and represent trips. Action: I bet $28, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($104): My opponent checks. My opponent could have a queen, or an underpair of sorts. I did pick up a wrap. Action: I check.
River ($104): My opponent checks. I’m clearly beat here, but my opponent doesn’t have to have a queen. There’s only one play to make. Action: I bet $64, and my opponent folds. I wish I could take credit for brilliant play, but I can’t -- I made the only play I could make. Position and the initiative won this hand. Hand #2: 3-Betting BB vs. SB, Top-and-Bottom Two Pair The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: The button folds. The small blind ($436.80) raises to $12. I don’t ordinarily 3-bet this hand ever, but hey -- I have a suited ace with connectors and Broadway potential, and it’s just me and the small blind. Action: I ($419) re-raise to $36, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($72): My opponent checks. With top-and-bottom two pair, there is roughly one play to make. Action: I bet $72. My opponent raises to $288. I have a commitment decision to make. The problem here is that my opponent’s check-raise range against my c-bet in this lowish-SPR situation (SPR 5.3) figures to be fairly wide -- it could be a wrap, or as little as one pair. I think I have to go with it. Action: I re-raise all-in to $383, and my opponent calls, showing A♥ K♠ 6♦ 4♥, for the same two pair.
Turn ($838):
River ($838): Well, that was exciting. Hand #3: 3-Betting, Getting 4-Bet, Bottom Two Pair on Flush Board, Ultra-Low SPR The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($397) opens with a raise to $14. I could go either way with this speculative wrap hand, but 3-betting does have its appeal. Plus I am double-suited, armed and ready for Pump-and-Shove. Action: I ($522.40) re-raise to $48, and both blinds fold. The cutoff now re-raises to $150. I call. Well, I wasn’t folding.
Flop ($306): My opponent checks. I flopped bottom two pair on a flush board in an ultra-low-SPR situation (SPR < 1). My opponent either has a flush or he doesn’t. Action: I set him all-in for his last $247, and he calls, showing A♣ A♦ 9♣ 2♦ for a pair of aces.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($800):
River ($800): I win. Hand #4: 3-Betting The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($266) -- the same opponent from the previous hand -- opens with a raise to $14. I ($904.40) re-raise to $48, and only the cutoff calls. A semi-loose 3-bet, and now a low-SPR situation.
Flop ($102): My opponent bets $102. I fold. Sometimes you just miss completely and there’s nothing you can do other than fold. Hand #5: Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($400) opens with a raise to $14. I have a suited ace and some straight potential, in position. It’s enough to call, but not so much as to necessarily dictate a 3-bet. Action: I ($406) call. Both blinds fold.
Flop ($34): My opponent checks. I bet $22, and my opponent folds. Standard Hand #6: Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($288.60) opens with a raise to $14. This hand is similar to the previous one, only that it is double-suited. It is still not a premium-class hand, as it does not have 13-card nut wrap potential. Action: I ($740.70) call. The button and both blinds fold.
Flop ($34): My opponent bets $28. I have a nut gutshot with the nut flush draw, against a c-bet. I’m definitely not folding. That said, I am inclined to raise on the semi-bluff against this possible steal bet. Action: I raise to $118, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($270): My opponent checks. I must follow through, particularly since I paired up -- I could be beating a draw. Action: I set my opponent all-in for his last $156.60, and he calls, showing K♦ J♠ T♦ T♥ for a pair of jacks with an open-ended straight draw and secondnut flush draw. OK. So my opponent has a pair of jacks with an open-ended straight draw, the second-nut diamond draw, and a dead set draw. I was a 37%/63% dog on the flop, and am now a 30%/70% dog here on the turn.
River ($583.20): I lose, as my opponent made the nut straight. Hand #7: BB vs. SB Small Ball, Combo Float The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($440) -- the same opponent from the previous hand -- who opens with a raise to $12. This is not a good hand without a suited ace, but I don’t like folding many hands when I am guaranteed to be heads up with the positional advantage. The play is to call and play Small Ball. Action: I ($443.90) call.
Flop ($24): My opponent bets $20. I call. Combo float with bottom pair and a gutshot wheel draw against a possible steal bet.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($64): My opponent checks. I bet $64 and my opponent folds. Standard Hand #8: 3-Betting Pre-flop, Flopping a Flush The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($364.80) opens with a raise to $14. The cutoff folds. I ($470.90) re-raise to $48, and only the hijack calls. This is a loose Pump-and-Shove 3-bet with a marginal -- but doublesuited -- hand.
Flop ($102): My opponent checks. I flopped the second-nut flush. I am pretty much going with this hand in this low-SPR (SPR 3.1) situation, in which there are less than two bets left. If I give my opponent credit for creativity, I could bet this flop and hope my opponent check-raises as a bluff. Otherwise, I am probably better off checking the flop and then betting the turn and river. Action: I check.
Turn ($102): My opponent bets $102. I could shove. That said, if my opponent does not have a flush, calling will not cost me the pot -- given these stack sizes, my opponent is pot-committed with a set, and will likely feel pot-committed with two pair as well, so the board pairing will not cost me a pot I would not otherwise have lost anyway. I think my best bet is to smooth call and call a bet on the river no matter what comes, and bet a blank if my opponent checks. Action: I call.
River ($306): My opponent checks. I set my opponent allin for $214.80. My opponent calls, showing A♣ J♣ T♠ 4♠ for the ten-high flush. I think my opponent was doomed from the start no matter how the hand was played, given these stack sizes. Hand #9: Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($408) opens with a raise to $14. 3-betting with a dry pair is not the right play.
Free $50
Action: I ($838.70) call. The button folds. The small blind ($216.70) calls. The big blind folds. Free $50
Flop ($46): Both opponents check to me. I bet $46 and both opponents fold. Standard. Hand #10: Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($529) opens with a raise to $14, and it gets folded to me. A-Q-J-T is not a premium hand without at least a suit. Folding is OK; 3-betting is not warranted. Action: I ($1,213.90) call. The small blind folds. The big blind ($287.20) calls.
Flop ($44): Both opponents check to me. I will bet top pair and a 13-card nut wrap, despite the two diamonds on the board. Action: I bet $44 and both opponents fold. Hand #11: 3-Betting Pre-flop, Getting 4-Bet from the Blinds The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($594.50) opens with a raise to $14. The cutoff folds. Sitting about 150BBs deep with a near-premium hand, this is a classic deep-stack 3-bet scenario. Action: I ($1,399) re-raise to $48. Both blinds fold. The UTG player now re-raises to $150. Whatever. I’m OK with that. Action: I call.
Flop ($306): My opponent bets $306. I fold. Whatever. Hand #12: Small Ball, Combo Float The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($139.70) opens with a raise to $12. Q-J-8-6 is not a real premium hand, and while I’ve 3-bet with similar hands before (in this chapter), stack size is a consideration here. Small Ball is preferred against the 35BB stack. Action: I ($412.50) call. Both blinds fold.
Flop ($30): My opponent bets $16. I call. A combo float/stopping call against possible/probable weak-stab c-bet.
Turn ($64): My opponent checks. If I were floating, I would bet this. Action: I bet $36. My opponent raises all-in to $111.70 total. I call. My opponent shows A♥ 7♥ 5♣ 4♦ for air + no re-draw.
River ($287.40): I win. Ok, so he actually had a flush draw, but whatever. The joke stands. Hand #13: Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($457) opens with a raise to $14. Only I ($1,148.80) call. Again, 3-betting the pair -- suited ace or not -- is not the correct play.
Flop ($34): My opponent bets $20. Calling is the standard action, where folding would be too weak, while there is little to no upside in raising the bare trips, no kicker, and little improvers. Action: I call.
Turn ($74): My opponent checks.
Free $50
I am looking at about one more bet of value at best. The play here is to check behind and play for one more bet at the river. Free $50 Action: I check.
River ($74): My opponent checks. The flush appearing dampens the value of my trips if my opponent had an underpair, and beats me if he has a flush. There’s little value in betting. The play is to check and show down. Action: I bet $12 and my opponent folds. So I actually tried a token value bet. However, unless my opponent folded a flush, it’s clear to me in retrospect that betting was a mistake. Hand #14: BB vs. SB, 3-Betting Pre-flop The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($540.80), who raises to $12. I ($400) re-raise to $36, and my opponent calls. A discretionary 3-bet. A-Q-8-4 is not a premium hand by any measure.
Flop ($72): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check. 50/50.
Turn ($72): My opponent checks. I bet $72, and my opponent folds. I probably could have checked back the two pair on the turn as well. Hand #15: 3-Betting Pre-flop, 5-5-5 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($433) opens with a raise to $12. I ($400) re-raise to $42, and only the hijack calls. This is another discretionary 3-bet, as A-J-T-9 is not a premium-class hand without a suited ace.
Flop ($90): My opponent checks. I check. My goal here is to mimic A-A-x-x.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($90): My opponent checks. Obviously, if I am going to mimic A-A-x-x and steal, I can’t check down until the river -- I need to put in a bet now and apply leverage to encourage a fold, or otherwise add weight to a river bet if I get called. Action: I bet $54. My opponent raises to $132. Game over. Having 3-bet pre-flop and checked the flop, my hand should appear very strong. That said, if my opponent does not have the case five, then good bluff. This is a bad spot to challenge him, unless the player is someone I am very familiar with and someone who I know is capable of bluff-raising here. Action: I fold. Hand #16: 3-Betting Pre-flop The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($526) opens with a raise to $12. I ($406) re-raise to $42, and only the UTG player calls. Standard 3-bet with a premium-class hand.
Flop ($90): My opponent checks. With the open-ended straight draw and overcards, the play is to take the free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($90): My opponent checks. I could try to check this down, or venture one bet and try to take the pot down. Action: I bet $46, and my opponent calls.
River ($182): My opponent checks. I made my straight. At this point, my opponent probably has to give me credit for at least A-A-x-x or maybe Q-Q-x-x if I bet again, and so it is questionable how much value there is in betting. It’s a judgment call. I decide to check this one. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♣ J♣ T♦ T♥ for the nut straight. Hand #17: BB vs. SB, 3-Betting, Low, Low-SPR Situation The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($161), who opens with a raise to $12. I ($499.80) re-raise to $36, and my opponent calls. I just felt like doing it on principle. This is a Pump-and-Shove 3-bet against a relatively short stack. Flat calling is generally the preferred play. That said, I am double-suited.
Flop ($72): My opponent checks. With an SPR < 2, this is a low-SPR situation. My middle pair and sucker gutshot should be bet. Action: I bet $72. My opponent raises all-in to $125. Well, now I am just plain pot-committed, getting about 5:1 to call. Action: I call. My opponent shows A♥ T♣ 8♣ 3♥ for the nut gutshot and a club draw. I am only a 39%/61% dog here.
Turn ($322):
River ($322): I win. Hand #18: 3-Betting Pre-flop, 13-Card Nut Wrap The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($765) opens with a raise to $14. The cutoff folds. I ($411.80) re-raise to $48, and only the UTG player calls. A Pump-and-Shove 3-bet.
Flop ($102): My opponent checks. I flopped the 13-card nut wrap -- minus the diamonds -- in a low-SPR situation (SPR 3.6). This should be bet, with the intention of calling a raise. Action: I bet $102, and my opponent calls. Interesting.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($306): My opponent bets $306 all-in, setting me all-in for my last $261.80. I am getting a little better than 2:1 to call, but I have maybe 13 outs max if I am live, and probably less than that if my opponent has a jack or an overpair, or a pair along with any of my outs. I can’t do much else other than fold. Hand #19: 3-Betting, Top Two Pair The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff posts a big blind. The UTG player ($1,388.80) opens with a raise to $18. I ($400) re-raise to $64, and it gets folded back to the UTG player, who calls. A Pump-and-Shove isolation 3-bet.
Flop ($138): My opponent checks. In this low-SPR situation (SPR 2.4), the play is to bet and commit my top two pair and open-ended straight draw. Action: I bet $100, and my opponent folds. Hand #20: Basic Strategy The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($413.80) raises to $14. The cutoff ($1,258.80) calls. I have a double-suited pair-plus rundown. But two things dictate that calling is the superior play to raising: 1.The pair in my hand 2.The caller in front of me The pair is a handicap after the flop when it doesn’t hit, and the caller makes it unlikely that a 3-bet would isolate anybody. Meanwhile, my hand isn’t so strong that I want to build the pot (further) for value, as I don’t want to promote a low-SPR situation with a deep-stack hand. Action: I ($429) call. The small blind folds, and the big blind ($698.10) calls.
Flop ($58): The big blind checks. The hijack bets $30. The cutoff raises to $148. I have middle set and a flush draw in a mid-SPR situation (SPR 7.1) -- judgment territory -- and in a multiway pot, facing a weak-stab c-bet and a potsized raise. I think the cutoff doesn’t have to be that strong to raise against the weak-stab c-bet, meaning that he doesn’t have to have top set. Moreover, even if he does have top set, he doesn’t have to have a bigger flush draw to go with it. The gist of it is that it is hard for one player (the cutoff) to have me beaten both ways, and there is more than enough doubt that shoving here is the clear correct play. Free $50
Free $50 Action: I re-raise all-in to $415, and everybody else folds. Hand #21: 3-Betting A-A-x-x, BB vs. SB The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds around to the small blind ($1,523.20), who opens with a raise to $12. These are relatively premium aces, with a suit and connectors. Action: I ($633) re-raise to $36, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($72): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
Turn ($72): My opponent checks. I picked up two pair, while a spade flush is now possible. The play is to check and take the free card, while making this a one-street affair. Action: I check.
River ($72): My opponent checks. There’s little value in betting. The play is to show this down. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♦ Q♦ 8♣ 5♠ for a pair of eights, and I win with my two pair. Hand #22: 3-Betting, Flopping Flush The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the cutoff ($400), who opens with a raise to $14. I ($413.90) re-raise to $48, and it gets folded back to the cutoff, who calls. This is a loose, discretionary 3-bet. I generally flat call the raise with this Small Ball hand in position.
Flop ($102): My opponent checks. I flopped the second-nut flush in a low-SPR situation. I am pretty much going with this hand one way or another. I checked the second-nut Free flush in a hand $50
earlier in this chapter; this time I will bet and hope to draw either value from a smaller flush or maybe two pair, or otherwise draw a bluff raise. Free $50 Action: I bet $60, and my opponent folds. Hand #23: 3-Betting BB vs. SB, Flopping Straight The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($400), who raises to $12. I ($446.90) re-raise to $36, and my opponent calls. I can do pretty much whatever I want in these BB vs. SB matchups.
Flop ($72): My opponent checks. I bet $58, and my opponent folds. Note the sub-pot-sized c-bet. Hand #24: BB vs. SB Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($642.80), who raises to $12. I ($458.80) call. J-8-7-4 is a Small Ball hand, though I can’t say I haven’t 3-bet with less.
Flop ($24): My opponent bets $24. I call. A semi-bluff float with a jack-high flush draw and a nut gutshot.
Turn ($72): My opponent checks. Having turned the flush, the play here is to check and play for one bet. It would be difficult to get more than one bet of value with this hand. Action: I check.
River ($72): My opponent bets $20. This looks like a blocking bet, which could mean a flush, a straight, or maybe even less. That said, raising is not the right play, as I would have a difficult time getting called by a hand worse than mine. Action: I call. My opponent shows Q♣ 5♠ 3♠ 2♣ for a queen-high flush.
Free $50
Free $50 It happens. Short-handed PLO can be a messy game, and you are going to lose some of these if you are to play in an overall winning manner. Hand #25: Small Ball, Semi-Bluff Float, Semi-Bluff Raise The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($406) opens with a raise to $14, and only I ($533.70) call. Q-T-9-2 is a clear Small Ball hand, with an absolute dangler.
Flop ($34): My opponent bets $34. I call. A semi-bluff float with a flush draw, gutshot, and having hit the pivot card.
Turn ($102): My opponent bets $100. I turned a 17-card wrap to go with my diamond draw. I could call, or I could raise and take a shot at winning the pot right here. If I think a bare pair -- or even less -- may be a chunk of my opponent’s range, then I think the percentage play is to take the shot. Action: I raise and set my opponent all-in for $358 total. My opponent calls, showing A♦ K♦ 7♦ 6♥ for two pair with the nut flush draw. The nut flush draw is killer -- I am a 32.5%/67.5% dog.
River ($818): I lose. Going back to the turn, note that I would be close to 50/50 had my opponent had the dry two pair; 47.5%/52.5% against 9-8-7-6 for bottom two pair with the nut open-ended straight draw; and a 41%/59% dog against T-9-8-7 for a pair and wrap. I needed 43.8% equity to justify shoving (I put in $358 on the turn in what turned out to be an $818 pot), assuming that my opponent calls my shove 100% of the time. However, my opponent probably won’t call the shove 100% of the time. Let’s see how often my opponent needs to fold in order for shoving to be the correct play, assuming shoving is better than calling. When I shove and my opponent folds, the result is +$202, or the $102 already in the pot plus my opponent’s $100 bet. But what if my opponent calls? Let’s say I average 40% equity when my opponent calls my shove, which seems pretty reasonable given how I stack up against the actual hand, as well as some of the other likely big hands my opponent would call a raise with. In this case, my equity is 40% of $818 (the total pot), or $327.20, which would result in a loss of $30.80 ($327.20 - $358). And if my opponent calls the shove 100% of the time and I have an average equity of 40%, then the expected value of shoving is a loss of $30.80. But of course, my opponent probably doesn’t call my shove 100% of the time. And so the next question is -- assuming I have an average equity of 40% when called, and I will lose $30.80 on average when called -- how often does my opponent have to fold in order for shoving to be correct? Well, if I win $202 when my opponent folds, and my opponent folds X percent of the time, and I expect to lose $30.80 when my opponent calls, and my opponent calls (1 - X) percent of the time, then the math is as follows: $202x = $30.80 (1-x) $202x = $30.80 - $30.80x $232.8x = $30.80 X = 13.2%
Free $50
In other words, my opponent only needs to fold to my shove a little over 13% of the time in order for shoving to be profitable, assuming I average 40% Free $50 equity when called. I think unless my opponent never double barrels with less than top two pair or a 13-card nut wrap with a flush draw, it’s a safe assumption that my opponent will fold over 13% of the time. Hand #26: 3-Betting, Pump-and-Shove The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($49.50) calls. The hijack ($59.15) raises to $2.25. I have an excellent Pump-and-Shove type hand, and a chance to knock out the blinds and limper and isolate the hijack… Action: I ($74.85) re-raise to $8. The button folds. The small blind ($190.10) calls. The big blind folds, but the other two players both call. …or play a multi-way pot.
Flop ($32.50): The first two players check. The player in front of me bets $32.50. I have top pair in a low-SPR situation on a relatively dry board. Shove. Action: I raise to $66.85 all-in. The other two players fold, and the bettor calls all-in for $51.15 total, showing A♥ 6♣ 6♥ 4♣. I am a 2:1 favorite.
Turn ($134.80):
River ($134.80): I win with a pair of eights. Hand #27: 3-Bet Pump-and-Shove The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($31.80) opens with a raise to $1. The hijack folds. I ($100.60) re-raise to $3.75, and only the UTG player calls. We now have a low-SPR (SPR 3.4) situation, where we are pretty much jamming the pot if we catch any piece of the flop.
Flop ($8.25): My opponent checks. I hit the pivot card, but on a board with two spades on it. Betting isn’t necessarily wrong, but I’d like to see the turn card.
Free $50
Action: I$50 check. Free
Turn ($8.25): This is the card I was looking for. I now have top pair with a 13-card nut wrap (minus the spades). The play is to shove if my opponent bets, and bet if my opponent checks. Action: My opponent checks. I bet $8.25. My opponent calls.
River ($24.75): My opponent checks. I can show this down. Action: I check. My opponent has J♣ T♠ 9♥ 4♣. I win. In retrospect, I probably also could have value-shoved the river as well, because I am way most likely to have the best hand, and I cannot get check-raised. Hand #28: Overtrips, Undercards The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: I post a $0.50 blind in the cutoff. The UTG player ($156.80) opens with a raise to $2. The hijack folds. I ($100) re-raise to $6.75, and only the UTG player calls.
Flop ($14.25): My opponent checks. I check. This is a unique pot control check situation, where I have the overtrips, but all of my improvers wouldn’t beat the nuts (J-T-x-x). The simple play is to check behind and try to play for two bets, as I am unlikely to get three streets of value with my trips. Doing so will avert the tricky situation where I bet and get raised and have to make a judgment decision about how good I think my trips are.
Turn ($14.25): The UTG player bets $1. I call. The hand is still tricky, as I am drawing dead to both A-J-x-x and J-T-x-x, but at the same time can’t really fold for one bet.
River ($16.25): My opponent bets $1. I don’t really give my opponent credit for A-J-x-x here, though I am also behind a straight or K-J-x-x or Q-J-x-x or T-T-x-x. On the one hand, I feel like I am letting my opponent off too easy if he doesn’t have trips or better; but on the other hand, there’s not a whole lot I can get value from by raising, unless my opponent has an ace and is willing to call. And then the question is how much can I raise and still get value? Because if I raise too much, I might only get called if I am beat. Action: I raise to $2.50. My opponent calls with A♥ Q♣ T♠ 9♠ for aces up.
Free $50
Free $50 Hand #29: Small Ball, Combo Float, and the Bluff Raise The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($167.25) opens with a raise to $1.75, and the cutoff folds. I ($83.15) call. The small blind folds. The big blind ($43.70) calls. I’ve 3-bet before with hands like this, and maybe worse. That said, there’s no rule against playing Small Ball with marginal hands.
Flop ($5.50): The big blind checks. The UTG player bets $4. I call. The big blind folds. Combo float.
Turn ($13.50): My opponent bets $6.75. I raise to $17.75, and my opponent folds. A bluff raise against the follow through. Hand #30: A-A-x-x with Nut Flush Draw Against Reverse Float The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($51.85) raises to $1. I ($60) re-raise to $3.75. Only the UTG player calls.
Flop ($8.25): My opponent checks. I have an A-A-x-x with the nut flush draw. This should be bet 100%. Action: I bet $8.25. My opponent calls.
Turn ($24.75): My opponent bets $11. I have a hard time folding for one bet here given the action. That isn’t to say that my opponent couldn’t have a nine here; it just seems like an awfully convenient card for him to bet. Action: I call.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($46.75): My opponent bets $13. I suppose my opponent could have made a straight, or could just be value-betting trips. I dunno. But at this price, I am inclined to look him up. Action: I call. My opponent has 7♥ 7♠ 6♥ 4♣. I win. Ok, so he flopped bottom two and I outdrew him with the 9♣. I don’t know that I understand the motivation behind his token river bet, because pretty much anything I call him with beats him, which makes his bet pretty much a bluff. That said, if I am in his shoes and am going to bluff, I probably bet a bit more than $13. Hand #31: Pivot Card, Flush Draw, and Deep Stack Play The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($93.65) opens with a raise to $1.75. The cutoff folds. I ($284.15) re-raise to $3. Both blinds fold. The hijack calls. On another day, I might have raised the pot. I am comfortable playing deep, however.
Flop ($6.75): My opponent checks. I flopped the third-nut spade draw and hit the pivot card; I also have the backdoor nut heart draw. I want to see the turn card. Action: I check.
Turn ($6.75): My opponent bets $5.50. I now have the 13-card nut wrap and a pair of tens with the flush draw, and am facing a weak bet. It is hard for raising to be wrong -- I have probable fold equity, and my hand is strong enough that I cannot get re-raised out of this pot. Action: I raise to $23.25 and my opponent folds. Hand #32: Double Delayed C-Bet The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($51.20) opens with a raise to $1.10. The cutoff folds. I ($144.90) re-raise to $4.05, and only the hijack calls. SPR 5.3.
Flop ($8.85): My opponent checks. I check.
Free $50
Free $50 I probably could have bet this, but chose to take the free card this time with the dry open-ended straight draw. Note that had the SPR been < 4, a bet and commit on the flop would have been automatic
Turn ($8.85): My opponent checks. I check. I probably could have bet this, too. There is an aspect of transparency, however, where most opponents will realize that I don’t have much if I bet this turn having checked the flop, and some might raise me. I don’t necessarily think that much of this opponent, but taking the free card is not the worst thing.
River ($8.85): My opponent checks. I might be able to win by checking; but then again, I might not. The safe play is to bet and act like I have something, maybe A-A-x-x or trip threes, or whatever will make my opponent fold. Action: I bet $7 and my opponent folds. Hand #33: Paired Board Flop, Three-Way Pot The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($63.50) opens with a raise to $1.10. I ($51.30) re-raise to $4.05. The small blind ($66.60) calls. The big blind folds. The cutoff calls. I don’t know why the small blind calls in these spots. Whatever.
Flop ($12.65): The blind checks. The next player bets $6.30. I flopped the bottom pair. That said, calling here is probably not the right play, as it is easy for the cutoff to have a queen, and I still have another player in the hand who could be slowplaying a queen as well. I’m best off giving this one up. Action: I fold, and the blind folds. Hand #34: Getting 4-Bet The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($100) opens with a raise to $3.50. The cutoff folds. I have a decent hand for Pump-and-Shove (low SPR) action, as I am double-suited with a three-card rundown plus a two-gap. It is not a real premium hand, but it would be pretty strong in a low-SPR situation. Moreover, it does not contain an ace, which means I should fare OK against A-A-x-x. Action: I ($100) re-raise to $12. Both blinds fold. The UTG player re-raises to $37.50. This is not ideal, but now I have to go with it against what is probably -- but not always, depending on the opponent -- A-A-x-x. Action: I call. The SPR < 1, making it an ultra-low-SPR situation in which I will commit if I catch any piece of the board.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($76.50): My opponent bets $62.50 all-in. Having paired up with an SPR < 1, I am essentially pot-committed. The flush draw and gutshot are merely gravy. Action: I call. My opponent shows A♦ A♥ 6♣ 4♦. Ok, this is quite favorable. In fact, I am a 69%/31% favorite. There is an element of luck, in that had my opponent instead held A♥ A♦ 6♣ 4♥ for the nut heart draw, I would have been a 41%/59% dog. He just happened to have diamonds this time instead of hearts.
Turn ($201.50):
River ($201.50): I win with a flush. Note that even if he had A♥ A♦ 6♣ 4♥ for the nut heart draw and overpair, it still would have been correct for me to call all-in on the flop, and by a healthy margin: I only needed 31% equity for a call to be correct, as my $62.50 call only represented 31% of the $201.50 total pot. You can also see the importance of being double-suited and having a multi-way hand in these 3-bet (or 4-bet in this case) low-SPR situations. Because even if my opponent happened to have something like K-K-x-x- or K-Q-x-x, I still have a gutshot and flush draw. And while both draws are non-nut, it remains difficult for my opponent to have me beat in every direction with his range. Hand #35: AKQJds The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($159.90) opens with a raise to $3.50. The next player ($148.80) calls. The cutoff folds. I have a premium-class hand that warrants a pot-building re-raise, so long as the UTG player is not a complete nit that only raises with A-A-x-x UTG. Action: I ($128.30) re-raise to $15.50. Both blinds fold. The UTG player calls, but the other player folds.
Flop ($36): My opponent checks. The nut flush should generally be bet. Action: I bet $21.50, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($79): My opponent checks. There is $79 in the pot, and I have $90.30 left. Giving a free card is out of the question. Action: I bet $49.50. My opponent raises to $99, and I call all-in for $90.30 total. My opponent shows A♣ T♣ 9♥ 5♥ for a smaller flush.
Free $50
Yeah, that’s a tough hand to get away from, heads up in what was a low-SPR situation on the flop. Free $50
River ($259.60): I win. Hand #36: Pair Plus Wrap The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($102) opens with a raise to $3.50. I ($104) re-raise to $12, and only the UTG player calls. A loose Pump-and-Shove 3-bet. 6-5-4-2 has a premium-class structure, but is rather speculative when this small. I am double-suited, however, which is a key to Pump-and-Shove 3-betting.
Flop ($25.50): My opponent checks. I have middle pair and a 13-card wrap in a low-SPR situation. Bet and commit. Action: I bet $25.50. My opponent raises all-in to $90. I call. My opponent shows A♣ Q♥ J♣ 5♦. Uh-oh. My opponent has top pair and the nut flush draw, and is a 2:1 favorite over my hand. This is the drawback of the Pump-and-Shove 3-bet -- these situations where you play for stacks as the dog become inevitable. That is not the case with Small Ball or deep-stack 3-betting.
Turn ($205.50):
River ($205.50): I lose. Hand #37: 3-Betting BB vs. SB The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($100.50), who opens with a raise to $3. I ($118.65) re-raise to $9. My opponent calls. Another loose, discretionary 3-bet in a BB vs. SB situation. There aren’t too many rules concerning these situations, other than that single pair (non-A-A-xx) hands dictate a call, and hands without wrap potential prefer a call and a small pot.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($18): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check with bottom two pair and a sucker gutshot.
Turn ($18): My opponent bets $13. I turned the underfull, which is a small-pot hand. Clearly, I am not folding for one bet -- which could mean any four cards. The play is to call, and likely call a bet on the river, and bet if checked to. Action: I call.
River ($44): My opponent bets $30. This bet is more polarized than the previous one, and is likely either K-K-x-x, J-J-x-x, K-J-x-x, K-9-x-x, or air. If my opponent was bluffing on the turn, then he may look at the K♠ as a good scare card to take another shot at. Basically, there is enough room for doubt that I must call here. Action: I call. My opponent shows A♦ T♠ 7♣ 6♦ for air. Hand #38: 3-Betting BB vs. SB The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button folds. The small blind ($230.90) raises to $3. I ($203.70) re-raise to $9, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($18): My opponent checks. I flopped bottom pair and a sucker gutshot on a board with two clubs on it. With no nut potential, I think c-betting is the preferred play. Action: I bet $12, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($42): My opponent checks. I picked up another gutshot straight draw. I could check, or I could do the usual thing and follow through with a pot-sized bet. Action: I bet $42, and my opponent folds. Hand #39: 3-Betting BB vs. SB The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind
Free $50
My hand: Free $50
The small blind is the same opponent from the previous hand. This hand took place only a few minutes later. Pre-flop: The button folds. The small blind ($177.90) raises to $3. I ($256.90) re-raise to $9, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($18): My opponent checks. I check. This is a similar situation to the last one, only that I have a nut gutshot and backdoor diamonds this time. The problem with betting every ace is that I am liable to get bluff check-raised eventually. That said, having bet the last one, I will go ahead and check this one.
Turn ($18): My opponent bets $16. I turned the nut straight with straight and diamond re-draws. I need to at least give myself a chance to play for stacks. Action: I raise to $66, and my opponent folds. So he didn’t have anything. Hand #40: Multi-Way, Deep-Stacked Play The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($183) opens with a raise to $3. I ($204.50) re-raise to $5. The cutoff ($21.40) calls. The button and small blind fold. The big blind ($99) and UTG player call. A pot-sweetening, semi-isolation attempt. I don’t mind the multi-way pot with this hand. We have an SPR of 8.7 between me and the UTG player, an SPR < 5 with the big blind, and less than one bet with the cutoff.
Flop ($20.50): It gets checked to me. I flopped the nut open-ended straight draw with the overcards. The only player I am really concerned with is the UTG player. I could go either way with this one. Action: I check, and the player behind me checks.
Turn ($20.50): It gets checked to me. With top pair now and everybody with more than one bet left having checked, it is too much to check here. Action: I bet $20.50 and everybody folds.
Free $50
Free $50 Hand #41: Getting 4-Bet The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($91.90) opens with a raise to $3.50. I ($219.55) re-raise to $12. The button ($4.90) calls all-in. Both blinds fold. The hijack re-raises to $42.40. I call. All pretty standard. There’s no rule saying that I have to 3-bet, but once the hijack makes it four bets I am not folding my double-suited rundown (gap or no gap) in position.
Flop ($16.20 main pot, $75 side pot): The hijack bets $49.50 all-in. With an ultra-low-SPR of 0.54, I am committed if I catch any piece of the flop. Top pair is a big enough piece. Action: I call.
Turn ($16.20 main pot, $165 side pot):
River($16.20 main pot, $165 side pot): The hijack shows A♥ A♦ Q♥ T♥ for the nut flush, scooping the pot. The button shows A♣ T♠ 7♣ 6♣. Hand #42: Top Pair, Second Nut Flush Draw The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($225.10) raises to $3.50. The cutoff folds. I ($168.95) re-raise to $6. The small blind ($100) calls. The big blind folds. The UTG player calls. Pot-building, semi-isolation attempt (if it isolates, cool; if it doesn’t, I don’t mind playing a bigger pot). We have a mid-high SPR of about 8 between me and the UTG player, and a low-mid SPR of about 5 with the SB.
Flop ($19): Both opponents check. I check. I don’t ordinarily check this when checked to, but I don’t mind it so much in this situation. I mean, I am not actually that strong in either direction (strong made hand or strong draw with the second-nut flush draw), so I don’t mind making a pot control check.
Free $50
Turn ($19): Both opponents check. Free $50 This is an interesting card, as now I have the nut flush with trips and a draw to a full house, but at the same time I’m not sure what I can get much value from -- maybe a bet from dry trips, or maybe a bet from a flush. And so I could bet, but I’m not convinced that I want to play a much bigger pot. Action: I check.
River ($19): The small blind checks. The next player bets $13. Ok. I definitely can’t fold here for one bet given the action thus far. Action: I call. The other player folds. My opponent shows Q♠ Q♦ 8♠ 3♠, and I win with the nut flush. Hand #43: Small Ball, Bottom Two Pair The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed, one blind My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($85.15) limps in. The cutoff ($100) raises to $4. The limper adds incentive to put in an isolation 3-bet. However, my small, speculative-class drawing hand dictates small ball. Action: I ($173.40) call. The blind folds. The limper calls.
Flop ($13): The UTG player checks. The next player bets $9. I have bottom two pair against a possible weak-stab c-bet. Folding is giving up too easily, while raising is also incorrect, as there is no value in it. Action: I call. The UTG player calls.
Turn ($40): Both opponents check to me. I picked up an open-ended straight draw. Meanwhile, the 5♠ also completes a possible straight. That said, both opponents have checked, showing weakness. This hand should be bet. Action: I bet $40, and both opponents fold. Hand #44: 3-Betting, Floating The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the cutoff ($100), who opens with a raise to $3. I ($585.65) re-raise to $10.50, and only the cutoff calls. Loose 3-bet.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($22.50): My opponent bets $12. I call. A naked float on a flush board against a possible steal. The first bet in a heads up pot is always suspect.
Turn ($46.50): My opponent checks. I bet $24.50, and my opponent folds. As planned. Hand #45: A Multi-way, Low-SPR Pot The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($192.80) opens with a raise to $7. I ($231.10) re-raise to $12. A min-isolation raise, looking to play deep with the positional advantage. Action: The small blind ($203.20) and big blind ($144.10) both call. The cutoff calls. OK, so it didn’t work, but I still have the button with a near-premium class hand.
Flop ($48): Everybody checks to me. I have bottom pair with a 13-card nut wrap but no flush draw, and in a low-SPR situation. Plus everybody has checked to me. I think the low-SPR situation dictates a bet. Action: I bet $48. The small blind calls. The big blind folds. The cutoff now raises to $96. Hmmm. My feeling here is that I am probably behind without the flush draw. But at the same time, for a min-raise with another caller in between, I should have odds to call and see the turn. I think the play here is to call and hope the small blind comes along to give me better odds on my draw. Action: I call. The small blind now re-raises all-in for $191.20 total. The cutoff calls all-in for $84.80, or $180.80 total. Well, that’s not really what I had in mind when I said I wanted the small blind to “come along.” But there is now $468 in the pot, and it is $143.20 for me to call, giving me 3.27:1 to call. I only need a little over 23% equity to justify a call. I am pretty much pot-committed at this point. Action: I call. The small blind shows K♥ Q♣ J♣ 4♥ and the cutoff shows Q♥ J♦ 6♦ 5♦. OK. I don’t understand the cutoff’s play at all.
Turn (Main pot, $590.40; Side pot $20.80):
River (Main pot, $590.40; Side pot $20.80): The small blind wins both the main pot and the side pot with a pair of kings.
Free $50
Free $50 As it turns out, for the main pot on the flop, it was 29% for me (29.43% to be exact), 21% for the cutoff with Q♥ J♦ 6♦ 5♦, and 50% for the small blind with K♥ Q♣ J♣ 4♥ for the nut flush draw. For the side pot, I was a 45%/55% dog against the small blind. Hand #46: Top-and-Bottom Two Pair, Getting Check-Raised The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), four-handed, one big blind My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($100) posts a dead $1 small blind. The UTG player ($467.45) opens with a raise to $7. The cutoff folds. I ($376.60) re-raise to $24, and only the UTG player calls. A loose 3-bet. I saw somebody else do this once with this hand.
Flop ($51): My opponent checks. I have top-and-bottom two pair with no improvers in a mid-SPR situation (SPR 6.9), but most importantly, my opponent has checked. There’s really only one play. Action: I bet $51. My opponent now raises to $120. Now I have a tougher decision. With a mid-SPR, we are in judgment territory. Moreover, I don’t have much in the way of improvers, and so this decision depends entirely on my read. That said, my opponent’s raise seems a little on the small side, and may be a simple check-raise steal, though I’ve seen people make this raise with a set as well. Alternatively, my opponent may be on the draw (like Q-J-T-x). But if I do decide to go with it, the play is to shove. Action: I re-raise all-in to $352.60. My opponent folds. This is another good example of a light bet/3-bet against a possible light check-raise. Hand #47: Limp 3-Bet, Getting 4-Bet The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), six-handed My position: UTG My hand:
Pre-flop: I ($197.20) limp in. It gets folded to the small blind ($223.40), who limps in. The big blind ($247.40) raises to $6. This is a good spot to 3-bet isolate. Action: I re-raise to $20. The small blind folds. The big blind re-raises to $62. I call. Well, the isolation worked, anyway. But this is a pretty favorable spot with a rundown hand with a gap and a suit, heads up with position.
Flop ($126): My opponent bets $126. There’s not a whole lot I can do here other than fold. Action: I fold. Hand #48: Small Ball, Floating
Free $50
Free $50 The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($356.20) opens with a raise to $6. I ($410.10) call. This is a very loose call -- in fact, this hand shouldn’t even really be played, as it has little nut straight potential (A-4-5 flop is about it), zero nut straight with straight re-draw potential, and really is a hand that is going to have a tough time flopping anything of value in a multi-way pot. 3-betting is not really preferred, either. Action: The small blind folds. The big blind ($270) re-raises to $25. The cutoff folds. Well, now I am going to be heads up with the positional advantage. There are not many hands I would fold when I know I am going to be heads up with the positional advantage. Action: I call.
Flop ($57): My opponent bets $30. I call. Naked float on a paired board, heads up against a c-bet.
Turn ($117): My opponent checks. I picked up a wrap with the nut flush draw, but my mind is not really on making a hand. Action: I bet $71 and my opponent folds. Hand #49: BB vs. SB Float The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($343.20), who opens with a raise to $4. This is not a good hand… Action: I ($469.10) call. …but I hate folding when I am guaranteed to be heads up in position, especially to a min-raise.
Flop ($8): My opponent bets $6. I call. Combo float with bottom pair against a possible weak-stab c-bet, heads up in position.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($20): My opponent checks. I bet $20, and my opponent folds. Hand #50: AA Small Ball The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($400) opens with a raise to $7. The cutoff folds. I have bad aces. I’m not folding, but 3-betting is not the best play, as I don’t want to build this flop when I am most likely going to flop a bare pair. Action: I ($400) call, and both blinds fold.
Flop ($17): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
Turn ($17): My opponent bets $10. Clearly, I am not folding for one bet. Action: I call.
River ($37): My opponent checks. I will sometimes bet this, but with the possible straight out, I prefer to check here and show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♥ Q♠ T♣ 5♠, and I win with my aces up. Hand #51: BB vs. SB, Small Ball , Combo Float, Bluff Raise The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($335.95), who opens with a raise to $4. I ($770.65) call. Another weak hand. I could have folded if I wanted to.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($8): My opponent bets $4. I call. A combo float with top pair and a gutshot wheel draw.
Turn ($16): My opponent bets $10. My king may be the best hand, or it might not be. The heart presents a bluff raise opportunity, consistent with my flop call. Really the only way I don’t make a play here is if I give my opponent credit for hearts here. That said, I think he plays any four cards this way, and has air more often than not. Action: I raise to $31 and my opponent folds. Hand #52: BB vs. SB, 3-Betting The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($676.40), who raises to $6. I ($206.70) re-raise to $18, and the small blind calls. A discretionary 3-bet with a Small Ball hand.
Flop ($36): My opponent checks. I should bet the 13-card nut wrap. Action: I bet $36, and my opponent folds. Hand #53: 3-Betting, Delayed c-Bet The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($216.50) opens with a raise to $7, and the next player folds. T-8-7-6ds is a classic Pump-and-Shove type 3-bet hand, as a double-suited single-gap rundown hand. Action: I ($222.60) re-raise to $24, and it gets folded back to the UTG player, who calls.
Flop ($51): My opponent checks. I have bottom pair and some backdoor probabilities. On the one hand, my improvers aren’t great -- I can’t make a good two pair, while a seven, eight, nine, or ten all improve my hand, but not materially so. As such, betting may be the correct play, as my outs are slim. On the other hand, this flop could easily have hit my opponent, while I do have some improvers. Free $50
Free $50 I don’t think there is a clear best option here. This time I will choose to check and await further developments on the turn. Action: I check.
Turn ($51): My opponent checks. I must bet the spades now, as I have little chance of showing this hand down and winning. Action: I bet $32, and my opponent folds. Hand #54: Small Ball, Combo Float, Semi-Bluff Raise The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($206.35) raises to $6. I have a hand that I would open with a raise myself, but the pair dictates flat calling and playing small ball, rather than 3-betting. Action: I ($200) call. The button and both blinds fold.
Flop ($15): My opponent bets $8. I have an underpair and the nut open-ended straight draw, against a weak-stab c-bet. I could raise, or I can call on the semi-bluff combo float. Action: I call.
Turn ($31): My opponent bets $10. One weak stab: OK. Another: No way. Action: I raise to $61, and my opponent folds. Hand #55: 3-Betting A-A-x-x, Blocker Play The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($317.95) opens with a raise to $4.50. I have enough ace to 3-bet isolate in position. Action: I ($785.85) re-raise to $16.50, and only the UTG player calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($36): My opponent checks. I have the blockers and the dry ace on the come. I don’t like my chances checking this down, or checking and having to call a bet later in the hand. Moreover, my blockers lose value if I check. Really, the only case for checking is that the dry ace may have some value if a spade hits, which I may have anyway, so long as I don’t get check-raised. Action: I bet $36, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($108): My opponent checks. When you initiate a blocker play, you bet through. Action: I bet $108, and my opponent calls.
River ($324): My opponent checks. I set my opponent all-in for his last $157.45. He tanks, and finally calls with T♦ T♠ 9♦ 3♥ for a set of tens. Ummm…OK. Hand #56: Small Ball, Semi-Bluff Float The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($479.30) opens with a raise to $7, and the cutoff ($748.65) calls. I have a small speculative wrap hand. The caller in between me and the raiser eliminates isolation play, while my hand is probably too small and speculative to comfortably 3-bet isolate anyway. Action: I ($400) call. Both blinds fold.
Flop ($24): The UTG player bets $16. The cutoff folds. I have a 16-card nut wrap with a flush draw on this paired board, against a c-bet. I could fold, but only if I give my opponent credit for a full house, which is probably too much credit for one c-bet. Assuming I am not folding against the c-bet, the safe play is to call on the semi-bluff float. Action: I call.
Turn ($56): My opponent checks. Having turned the small flush, the play is to check. If I am winning, I am unlikely to be outdrawn; if I am behind, I limit my downside. Action: I check.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($56): My opponent checks. I should check and show this down. Action: I bet $26, and my opponent folds. Well, what I was trying to do was draw value from an overpair, but I either bet too much, or my opponent didn’t have anything. That said, in retrospect, I think checking is generally the better play, unless I know my opponent is capable of calling light, as my bet has no value if my opponent only calls with a flush or better. Hand #57: BB vs. SB, 3-Betting The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: Everybody folds to the small blind ($754.40), who opens with a raise to $4. I ($439.70) re-raise to $12, and my opponent calls. A discretionary 3-bet in a BB vs. SB matchup, with a suited ace and connectors.
Flop ($24): My opponent checks. Bingo. I flopped top pair, the nut open-ended straight draw and the nut flush draw. Bet. Action: I bet $24, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($72): My opponent bets $36. I made the nut flush. Entering the turn, there was $72 in the pot, and my opponent had a $403.70 stack. The only way to get my opponent’s stack is to put in a raise at some point in the hand. Action: I raise to $117, and my opponent folds. It is what it is. The case for calling is when my opponent has air. But if I always assume he has air, then I can basically never play for stacks on the turn when I have the nuts. That said, my preference is to go for the stacks when I have it. Hand #58: BB vs. SB Small Ball, Bluff Raise, Picking off Bluffs The game: $1-$2 online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($534.70) -- the same opponent from the preceding hand, and several of the other preceding hands at these stakes -- who opens with a raise to $4. I ($462.80) call. Well, I’m not folding unless it’s trips, quads, or K-T-7-2 rainbow.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($8): My opponent bets $4. I raise to $11, and my opponent calls. My opponent has seen me float several times already, so I thought I’d mix it up and put in a bluff raise this time. Either he has a nine or an overpair, or is just being stubborn.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. Well, I might have bet the turn to put pressure on an overpair like Q-Q-x-x or J-J-x-x, but now I actually have a hand to show down. Action: I check.
River ($30): My opponent bets $15. I have an interesting decision to make. My opponent could be value-betting trips or A-9-x-x, or maybe a straight, or at least that’s what he is representing. Or he could just be sick of getting picked on. Action: I call. My opponent shows K♣ Q♣ 8♠ 6♠ and I win. Hand #59: 3-Betting, Floating The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($500.85) opens with a raise to $4, and the cutoff folds. I ($206.45) re-raise to $15, and both blinds fold. The UTG player calls. If you can get past the three diamonds, this is a standard 3-bet with a near-premium hand.
Flop ($33): My opponent bets $16.50. I call. A semi-bluff float with a gutshot.
Turn ($66): My opponent checks. I should take a shot at representing the hearts. Action: I bet $42, and my opponent folds. Hand #60: 3-Betting The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
The UTG player is the same opponent from the previous hand. Pre-flop: The UTG player ($316.20) opens with a raise to $4, and the cutoff folds. I have a marginal small ball hand, but with enough high-card strength to attack a limper. Let’s just look at the UTG player’s action as a big limp. Action: I ($226) re-raise to $15, and only the UTG player calls.
Flop ($33): My opponent checks. I hit the pivot card, and flopped the nut gutshot with secondnut diamonds. This is a standard checking spot. Action: I check.
Turn ($33): My opponent checks. I bet $33, and my opponent calls. Standard.
River ($99): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows A♦ 5♣ 3♦ 2♥ for bottom two pair. I didn’t see that coming. Well, my opponent flopped bottom pair with the nut flush draw. I’d say I played that hand about perfectly. Hand #61: 3-Betting The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
The UTG player is the same opponent from the previous two hands. Pre-flop: The UTG player ($309) opens with a raise to $4. I ($285) re-raise to $15, and both blinds fold. The UTG player calls. Same deal as the previous hand.
Flop ($33): My opponent checks. I flopped the nut gutshot and a handful of overcards. The play is to take the free card. Action: I check.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($33): My opponent bets $33. I turned top pair. I am not folding for one bet. Action: I call.
River ($99): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♥ 8♥ 7♦ 3♠, having flopped the nut straight. I’d say he’s raising pretty light. Hand #62: Limp 3-Bet The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: UTG My hand:
I kind of just wanted to see a cheap flop with this hand. The guys behind me aren’t terribly deep, but I didn’t want to raise with this hand and wind up playing heads up out of position, either. Action: Both players fold behind me. The small blind ($256.85) limps in. The big blind ($800.90) raises to $8. This is a good spot for an isolation 3-bet. I have a chance to knock out the small blind, and I have a decent enough hand to play heads up in position roughly 200BBs deep. Action: I re-raise to $26, and the small blind folds. The big blind re-raises to $80. I call. Obviously, I am not folding.
Flop ($162): My opponent bets $162. I have a 16-card wrap. It is not a nut wrap, but in this low-SPR situation, it merits a shove. Action: I raise to $317.70 all-in. My opponent calls, showing A♣ K♣ K♠ Q♥ for a pair of kings. I am a 57%/43% favorite.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($797.40):
River ($797.40): I win with the straight.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Deep Stack Ante Games
Hand #63: J♥-T♥-9♠-8♦ The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($452.05) opens with a raise to $4.70, and it gets folded to me. J-T-9-8 with a suit is a real premium-class drawing hand, designed for a 3-bet almost 250BBs deep. Action: I ($245.35) re-raise to $16.80, and only the UTG player calls.
Flop ($36.30): My opponent checks. I hit a pivot card and flopped a flush draw. Free card. Action: I check.
Turn ($36.30): My opponent bets $18.15. The second-nut flush is a small-pot hand. Action: I call.
River ($72.60): My opponent checks. I should put in a value bet. Action: I bet $39 and my opponent folds. No flush, apparently. Hand #64: 3-Betting The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($192.75) raises to $4.70. I ($200) re-raise to $16.80, and only the hijack calls. Why not?
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($36.30): My opponent checks. I have no hand, no draw. I should bet the ace. Action: I bet $25, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($86.30): My opponent checks. It looks like my opponent either had an ace or K-Q-J-x. I could fire one last shot. Action: I check.
River ($86.30): My opponent checks. I guess he has an ace and not the straight. It’s either take a shot or I give up. Action: I bet $49, and my opponent folds. Hand #65: Small Ball, Re-Steal Float The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The cutoff ($162.90) opens with a raise to $4.50. A-2-4-5 is not a premium hand by any means, even with a suited ace. In fact, folding isn’t even a bad play. Action: I ($281.50) call. The small blind ($172.20) calls. The big blind folds.
Flop ($15.50): Both opponents check to me. I have middle pair with a 13-card wrap, though with only three nut outs (three aces). That said, with both opponents checking to me, I should bet. Action: I bet $15.50, and both opponents call.
Turn ($62): The small blind now bets $33, and the other player calls. The small blind took a weak stab at the pot, and the other player has called. Again, my draw is not that strong, and now looks worse with the two clubs on the board. However, I am getting good odds -- about 4:1 -- and I do have position, and as such should be able to play the river fairly accurately from here. Action: I call.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($161): Both opponents check. Rather than try to show down my four, it might be worth taking a shot at this river. Action: I bet $84.50, and both opponents fold. Hand #66: Isolation 3-Betting from the Big Blind The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The first two players fold. The cutoff ($235.40) limps in. The button folds. The small blind ($87.50) raises to $5.20. Here’s the situation: I am double-suited with an otherwise marginal hand; I have position on the raiser, while the other player has limped in on the button. Perhaps this might be a good spot to 3-bet and try to isolate the small blind? Action: I ($502) re-raise to $17.80, and both opponents call. I wouldn’t fold if I were the button, either.
Flop ($54.60): The small blind checks. I have a gutshot, but checking is nearly akin to giving up the pot. The play is to bet the pot and represent A-A-x-x, and put anyone with a bare ace to the test. Action: I bet $54.60, and both opponents fold. Hand #67: Top Pair, Nut Open-ended Straight Draw, Second-Nut Flush Draw The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($299.50) opens with a raise to $3. I ($200) re-raise to $11.70, and only the cutoff calls. A discretionary 3-bet with a small ball hand.
Flop ($26.10): My opponent checks. I hit the flop about as hard as I could have hoped for, with top pair, a nut open-ended straight draw, and the second-nut flush draw. Action: I bet $26.10, and my opponent calls.
Free $50
Turn ($78.30): My opponent checks. Free $50 Once you set the betting machine in motion, there is no slowing down. Action: I bet $78.30. My opponent raises all-in, setting me all-in for $162 total. I am pot-committed now with my draw. Action: I call. My opponent shows 7♣ 7♦ 6♥ 4♣ for a set of sevens with a gutshot. What are the chances of that?
River ($350.10): I lose. Hand #68: 3-Betting Pre-flop, 13-Card Wrap Plus Nut Flush Draw, Deep The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($1,792.20) opens with a raise to $8.80. The next player folds. There’s no rule that says I have to 3-bet with this hand. But I have position, the stacks are deep (over 550BBs deep), I have a hand with lots of potential, and I don’t fear a 4-bet given the stack sizes. Action: I ($1,117.90) re-raise to $31.20, and only the UTG player calls.
Flop ($67.20): My opponent checks. This is basically as good a flop as I could hope for, though my 13-card wrap is over the sucker variety. But add the flush draw, and I should bet roughly 100% of the time. Action: I bet $67.20, and my opponent calls. I don’t know why, but I love getting action when I flop a big draw.
Turn (201.60): My opponent checks. This is the one card I didn’t want to see, as it fills the obvious straight. Moreover, if my opponent does have the straight, we are sitting deep enough that I could conceivably get check-raised off of my flush draw. Action: I check.
River ($201.60): My opponent bets $164. I made the flush, but the board paired. Raising doesn’t make much sense. But I can beat a bluff. Action: I call. My opponent shows K♥ K♦ T♥ 8♣ for a full house, having flopped top two pair. How exciting.
Free $50
Free $50 Hand #69: 3-Betting, Nut Straight with Re-Draw The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($200) opens with a raise to $8.50. I ($403.25) re-raise to $30, and only the UTG player calls. I was feeling it.
Flop ($64.50): My opponent checks. I flopped the nut straight with a straight re-draw, in a low-SPR (SPR 2.6) situation. I should definitely bet my hand, but it should be small enough that my opponent has room to check-raise on the bluff. Action: I bet $48. My opponent raises to $169.70 all-in. I call. My opponent shows A♥ 8♥ 6♠ 5♠ for top two pair.
Turn ($403.90): No waiting, as my pal Alan Schermer says.
River ($403.90): Hand #70: Small Ball, The Betting Machine The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($351.60) opens with a raise to $8.20. I have a sub-premium suited ace in position on the pre-flop raiser. Action: I ($402.65) call. The small blind folds, but the big blind ($406.15) calls.
Flop ($26.80): Both opponents check to me. I bet $26.80. The big blind calls, but the UTG player folds. I took a shot and bet my position, with the gutshot wheel draw as backup.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($80.40): My opponent checks. I bet $80.40, and my opponent calls. Follow through.
River ($241.20): My opponent checks. I bet $159, and my opponent folds. The Betting Machine. Hand #71: Getting 4-Bet from the Blinds, Two Pair on Flush Board The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($498.75) opens with a raise to $10.50. This suited ace is superior to the previous one, given the connectors and sucker-end 17-card wrap potential. A second suit is a bonus. Action: I ($400) re-raise to $36. The button folds. The small blind ($425.65) re-raises to $122, and both the big blind and UTG player fold. By now, you know I’m not folding heads up with position. Action: I call.
Flop ($258): My opponent bets $258. We have a near ultra-low-SPR situation, with just little over a pot-sized bet to play. I am committed with two pair. Action: I raise all-in for $277.70 total, and my opponent calls, showing A♠ A♣ 7♥ 6♣ for a pair of aces.
Turn ($813.40):
River ($813.40): I win. Just a note on pre-flop equities: I am only a 29%/71% dog against the actual A-A-x-x hand I was up against. But I improve to 35%/65% if my opponent is unsuited with A♠ A♣ 7♥ 6♦, and I improve to 40%/60% if my opponent instead has A♠ A♣ 7♥ 2♥ with smaller hearts than I have, and without the 6♣ to block my two pair potential. And of course, it is conceivable that my opponent doesn’t even have A-A-x-x to 4-bet me. But generally speaking, I am not nearly as dominated as you might think I would be when my opponent has A-A-x-x. I used to avoid 3-betting much with hands with an ace in it for that reason, but so long as the original raiser who I am trying to isolate is not too tight (i.e. A-A-x-x only), I’ve gotten a bit more comfortable with 3-betting with this type of hand.
Free $50
Hand #72: 3-Betting, Flush Draw on Paired Board Free $50 The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($400) raises to $8.80. I ($837.90) re-raise to $31.20. It gets folded back to the hijack, who calls. Sitting 200BBs deep, I’ve become a bit 3-bet happy.
Flop ($67.20): My opponent checks. I have the bottom pair and the nut flush draw. I think taking the free card sounds like a good overall idea. Action: I check.
Turn ($67.20): My opponent bets $58. Sure, I could be behind. But my opponent could have air, too. I hate the idea of folding for one bet. Action: I call.
River ($183.20): My opponent checks. The 8♦ is a great card for me. I have to figure my trips are good with my opponent checking. A value bet is in order. Action: I bet $58. My opponent calls, showing K♠ K♥ 3♠ 3♥ for kings up. I win with my trip eights. Hand #73: 4-Betting A-A-x-x, Nut Flush Draw on Straight Board The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The hijack ($809.35) raises to $8.80. The cutoff ($235.85) re-raises to $20. I ($524.80) re-raise to $73.60, and it gets folded back to the cutoff, who calls.
Flop ($160.80): My opponent bets $160.80. I flopped the nut flush draw with the overpair, and am not going anywhere for what is effectively one bet. Action: I raise $1.15 more and set my opponent all-in for $161.95 total. My opponent calls the extra $1.15, showing J♣ T♣ T♠ 8♠ for a pair of tens and smaller clubs.
Free $50
Free $50 I am a 78%/22% favorite here. Note the drawback of having a pair in your hand -- my opponent improves to 26% equity with a hand like Q♠ J♣ T♣ 8♠ for a pair and clubs, and 34% equity with a hand like J♣ T♣ 9♠ 8♠ with the added gutshot. Having the nut flush draw is also killer. Turn the 4♣ on the flop into the 4♥, and my opponent has 29% with his actual hand, 38% equity with Q♠ J♣ T♣ 8♠ for a pair with two pair and trip draws, and 47% equity with J♣ T♣ 9♠ 8♠ with the added gutshot. The flip side is that if I don’t have the bigger clubs, my opponent is much stronger -- particularly if unpaired -- improving to 38% with the actual paired hand, 59% equity with Q♠ J♣ T♣ 8♠, and 66% equity with J♣ T♣ 9♠ 8♠.
Turn ($484.70):
River ($484.70): I win with my aces. Hand #74: 3-Betting, C-Betting The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($397) opens with a raise to $7. I ($400) re-raise to $25.50, and only the cutoff calls. A discretionary 3-bet with a small ball hand.
Flop ($55.50): My opponent checks. I bet $30 and my opponent folds. You can’t check all of the time. Hand #75: Small Ball The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Hijack My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($365.40) -- the same opponent from the previous two hands -- opens with a raise to $8.80. Only I ($448.45) call. The pair in my hand dictates a call and Small Ball.
Flop ($22.40): My opponent bets $17. I call. Loose floater. Dry underpairs make for the worst floating hands, as they are difficult to improve to. But I can’t help myself sometimes.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($56.40): My opponent checks. I picked up the nut flush draw. That said, the obvious straight card hit, and my opponent has checked. I should take this opportunity to complete the float. Action: I bet $56.40 and my opponent folds. Hand #76: BB vs. SB, 3-Betting The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($658.45), who opens with a raise to $7.20. I ($656.85) re-raise to $22.80, and my opponent calls. Obviously, I would prefer to have a suited ace, but I 3-bet here on principle. Clearly I’ve 3-bet with a lot less.
Flop ($46.80): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check with top pair.
Turn ($46.80): My opponent bets $46.80. I call. Standard stopping call with top pair, with a double-gutshot straight draw as a bonus. Raising here is a consideration, but in that case I risk getting 3-bet off my hand.
River ($140.40): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♦ 8♥ 7♠ 7♦ for a set of sevens. You see how strong position is here -- I made this hand a one-bet hand, while my opponent flopped middle set. It is very difficult for the player out of position to get much value out of his hands. Hand #77: BB vs. SB, Small Ball The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($525.90) -- the same opponent from the previous hand -- who opens with a raise to $7.50. I ($1,251.30) call. I decided to mix things up and give my opponent a different look. And to tell you the truth, I want him to keep raising in these BB vs. SB confrontations, because I have a considerable advantage -- it is way better than having him open-fold, which is what ultimately will happen if I 3-bet him too much.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($16.50): My opponent bets $16.50. I call. Combo float with the middle pair and the sucker-end open-ended straight draw.
Turn ($49.50): My opponent checks. I check. I could have bet. It just seems suspicious sometimes when they don’t follow through on the obvious bluff card.
River ($49.50): My opponent checks. At this point, I don’t really give my opponent credit for T-T-x-x or 9-9-x-x. That said, I have enough to show down with my nines. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♣ Q♣ 5♥ 4♥, and I win. Hand #78: Small Ball The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Cutoff My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($400) opens with a raise to $8.80. I ($996) call. Again, there’s no rule that says I have to 3-bet. And with a dangler, this Broadway wrap hand with a suited ace is a speculative-class hand rather than a premium-class one. Action: The button ($133.15) calls. The small blind folds, but the big blind ($284.80) calls.
Flop ($38): Both players in front of me check. I have top pair and a nut gutshot, while the two players in front of me have checked. This should be bet. Action: I bet $38, and only the big blind calls.
Turn ($114): My opponent checks. I bet $71, and my opponent calls. Standard follow through with trips.
River ($256): My opponent checks. This would be a thin value bet.
Free $50
Free $50
Action: I check. My opponent shows J♥ 9♣ 4♥ 2♠ for imagination, and I win with my trip aces. Hand #79: Small Ball vs. 3-Bet Situation The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($1,801) opens with a raise to $8.50. The cutoff ($400) calls. Two things dictate calling over 3-betting, the first being the caller in between me and the raiser, and the other being that my hand is not that strong. A suited ace with connectors is a marginal hand without wrap potential. Action: I ($1,126.70) call, and the small blind ($120.35) calls. The big blind folds.
Flop ($37.50): The first player bets $18, and it gets folded to me. I can’t make a play every time, and I tend to give the bettor credit for a hand here. It is too easy for him to have a king, and he has to know that it is easy for me or the other guy to have king as well. Action: I fold. Hand #80: 3-Betting, Top Pair The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($468) opens with a raise to $8.50. The cutoff folds. I ($962) re-raise to $30, and only the UTG player calls. This is a fairly strong hand for these kinds of situations, as I have the suited ace, a bonus suit, and some wrap potential.
Flop ($64.50): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
Turn ($64.50): My opponent checks. I picked up the nut heart draw and a nut gutshot. I want to bet it. Action: I bet $64.50 and my opponent folds. Hand #81: Small Ball The game: $1-$2 online with $0.30 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($834.55) opens with a raise to $8.50. The cutoff folds. I could fold this pretty easily. Without connecting cards, this hand does not have nut wrap potential. Action: I ($939.30) call. The small blind ($253.70) and big blind ($181.90) both call.
Flop ($35.50): It gets checked to me. I’ll bet the top pair, flush draw, and gutshot in position. Action: I bet $35.50, and both blinds call. The UTG player folds.
Turn ($142): The small blind bets $32, and the big blind raises all-in to $137.60. I have two pair now, but the obvious straight card hit, and I am envisioning myself being beat. For me to continue here, I have to think that my flush draw is live, and that my two pair are live outs to a full house. I am about 2:1 against improving, but winning is another matter. Action: I fold. The small blind calls. The big blind shows J♠ J♦ 9♥ 8♠ having turned the straight, while the small blind shows A♦ K♥ 9♦ 5♠ for the nut flush draw and sucker gutter.
River ($417.20): Hand #82: Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The cutoff ($845.20) raises to $10.85, and only I ($806.45) call. This is not really a good hand in any sort of way. I have a suited ace, and that is about it.
Flop ($31.45): My opponent bets $31.45. I call. It’s hard to fold for one bet.
Free $50
Turn ($94.35): My opponent bets $54. Free $50 At this point, I have a tough time seeing my A-Q-x-x being good. I am inclined to let him have this one. Action: I fold. Hand #83: BB vs. SB, 3-Betting, A-A-x-x, Nut Flush Draw, Semi-Bluff Raise The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($1,253.35), who opens with a raise to $15. These aces aren’t spectacular, but at least they are suited with some high and low straight potential. Flat calling is an option. Action: I ($1,425.25) re-raise to $48, and the small blind calls.
Flop ($99): My opponent checks. I flopped the nut flush draw. Action: I check.
Turn ($99): My opponent bets $49.50. I picked up the nut gutshot, and now my opponent has taken a weak stab at this pot. The one thing for certain is that I am not folding; the question is whether or not I should raise. If I think my opponent is weak, raising is a viable option. Action: I raise to $247.50, and my opponent folds. Hand #84: BB vs. SB Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the small blind ($440.50), who opens with a raise to $15.75. Dry kings dictate a call. Action: I ($800) call.
Flop ($35.25): My opponent bets $24. I call. I can’t fold for one bet.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($83.25): My opponent checks. I check. Pot-control check.
River ($83.25): My opponent checks. I have enough to show down, and little more. Action: I check. My opponent shows K♥ J♥ 8♥ 7♦ for eights and sixes, and I win with my kings up. Hand #85: A-K-K-7 Small Ball The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: Button My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($1,146.35) opens with a raise to $17. Having a suited ace does not in itself make kings a 3-bet hand. Action: I call. The small blind folds. The big blind ($824.05) calls.
Flop ($56): The big blind checks. The UTG player bets $56. I’d be more inclined to make a stopping call if I had some other potential, like a straight draw or backdoor hearts. Action: I fold, and the big blind folds.
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Free $50
Part VII: Blind Defense Playing from the blinds out of position against a raise.
Part VII: Blind Defense deals with situations where you are in the blinds and are out of position against the pre-flop raiser (in other words, blind defense situations excluding BB vs. SB matchups). The hands in this chapter cover situations in which you defend your big or small blinds against a raise, which you shouldn’t be doing much of -- particularly from the small blind. We’ll also take a look at 3-betting out of position against the steal raise, which you should probably be doing even less of. 3-Betting Out of Position I rarely 3-bet out of position, but my decision to do so is largely dependent on both stack size and what I think of my opponent, in addition to the strength of my hand. At 100BBs deep, you can sometimes get away with 3-betting against a pot-sized raise, as this will result in a low-SPR situation (e.g. in a $0.50-$1 game with 100BB stacks, the button raises the full pot to $3.50, the small blind folds, I re-raise to $12, and my opponent calls; there will be $24.50 in the pot with $88 remaining stacks on the flop, for an SPR < 4). This situation still generally favors the player in position; but if your opponent does not play you accurately and folds to a c-bet too often -- for example, he gives you way too much credit when you c-bet and folds top pair -- then it doesn’t hurt you much to 3-bet out of position. Likewise, if the stacks are shallower, you can get away with 3-betting out of position if your opponents are weak and fold too often to a c-bet. However, if the stacks are much deeper than 100BBs, or if you have 100BB stacks and the raise is less than the pot, then your play is much more dependent on how weak your opponent is. Because let’s say it’s a $0.50-$1 game with 100BB stacks, the button opens with a raise to $2, and the small blind folds. Now you can only re-raise to $6.50; and if your opponent calls, there will be $13.50 in the pot with $93.50 stacks on the flop, for an SPR near 7 -- roughly deep-stack territory. And for you to want to be that deep out of position, your opponent needs to be a weak player who folds too often to c-bets and/or won’t try to steal if you check the flop to him; otherwise, you are just asking for trouble.
Free $50
Hand #1:$50 3-Betting OOP Free The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player folds. The button ($445.70) raises to $9, and the small blind folds. I had just bought in and sat down at the table. The button is a player I’ve never played with before. Now I’m not folding my Broadway wrap hand double-suited. Calling is generally the best response, but I feel like testing my opponent here. I am skeptical of anybody who opens on the button with basically a min-raise. Action: I ($400) re-raise to $29, and the UTG player calls.
Flop ($60): I flopped a pair and the nut flush draw, in a mid-SPR situation (SPR 6.2). I could bet out, check-call, or check-raise. None of the options are particularly appealing. This time, I opt to check with the intention of calling. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($60): I should bet the nut flush. Action: I bet $44, and my opponent calls.
River ($148): Ditto. Action: I bet $102, and my opponent calls, showing K♦ Q♣ 8♦ 8♣ for the second-nut flush. Notice that the bet size on the river was consistent with the bet size on the turn. Hand #2: 3-Betting A-A-x-x The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($274) opens with a raise to $14. The small blind folds. I have a premium-class A-A-x-x against a 68.5BB stack. Generally, with A-A-x-x, you want to be able to get at least one-third of your stack in pre-flop, which would make the flop an ultra-low-SPR, or one-bet situation. But with premium A-A-x-x hands, you can probably relax your requirement a little bit. Action: I ($578) re-raise to $44, and my opponent calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($90): My opponent has $230 left, and there is $90 in the pot. I am pretty much going with this hand in this low-SPR situation. That said, I need to start betting now if I want the money to go in. Action: I bet $40, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($170): I bet $60, and my opponent calls.
River ($290): I set my opponent all-in for $130, and my opponent calls, showing K♣ J♠ 9♣ 2♥ for quads. Oh well. I suppose he could just as easily have had K-K-x-x. Hand #3: A-A-x-xds, 3-Betting, Check-Folding The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($400) raises to $9. The button is the same opponent from the first hand. The big blind has a shorter stack ($249.30 or about 62BBs), and I feel like double-suited aces should be strong enough for a 3-bet. Action: I ($402.80) re-raise to $31. The big blind folds, but the button calls.
Flop ($66): This is a horrible flop. I’m not sure there’s much I can do other than check and hope the hand gets checked down. Action: I check. My opponent bets $51. I fold. It sucks playing out of position, and I am not convinced that double-suited aces alone are strong enough to 3-bet out of position sitting 100BBs deep,
Free $50
much less against a min-raise at 100BBs deep. Because even with double-suited aces, you still only flop the nut flush draw or a set about one-third of the Free $50 time, which leaves you with a bare overpair the majority of the time, heads up and out of position. Hand #4: Reverse Float The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($896.20) raises to $8, and the small blind folds. A-K-T-9 with a suited ace is a premium-class hand. But sitting over 150BBs deep, 3-betting when you are guaranteed to be heads up out of position is not the right play. Action: I ($636) call.
Flop ($18): I check. My opponent bets $12. This is a possible weak-stab c-bet. Meanwhile, I have some backdoor possibilities. Action: I call.
Turn ($42): I bet $42, and my opponent folds. As planned. Hand #5: Undertrips The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($160) opens with a raise to $12, and the button ($1,487.20) calls. This Broadway wrap hand with nut hearts and a wheel card is a playable hand, though I could pretty easily fold this from the small blind just on principle, sitting over 150BBs deep and out of position. 3-betting is clearly incorrect. Action: I ($666) call. The big blind ($375.50) calls.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($48): The play with undertrips is to check and hope to induce a bluff -- most likely from the cutoff -- or a bet from an overpair. Action: I check, and it gets checked around.
Turn ($48): With the flop getting checked around, I should bet my own hand. Action: I bet $26. The big blind folds. The cutoff calls. The button folds.
River ($100): I can beat an overpair or bare trips. It’s also possible I am losing. I think this situation calls for a blocking value bet. Action: I bet $54. My opponent raises all-in to $122. I’ve got to think I am beat here. Action: I fold. In retrospect, I am left to ponder the possibility that my opponent would shove all-in on the river with A-A-x-x. It’s hard to really say unless you see somebody actually do it. Hand #6: Nut Flush Draw, Overpair, Straight Board The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($420.20) opens with a raise to $12. This is very much a premium-class hand, but the pair dictates a call rather than a 3-bet. Action: I ($1,294) call. The big blind folds.
Flop ($28): I have the nut flush draw and an overpair on the flop with a possible straight out. I am in check-call mode. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Turn ($28):
Free $50
Same deal. Free $50 Action: I check. My opponent checks.
River ($28): I made the nut flush, though the board has paired. That said, particularly given the lack of action thus far, a value bet is in order. The play is to bet and try to draw a call from a smaller flush, and probably call if I get raised. Action: I bet $16, and my opponent folds. Hand #7: Top Pair, Losing The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($400) opens with a raise to $14. A-K-Q-9 with a suited ace is a premium-class hand. With 100BB stacks between me and the button, 3-betting might be an acceptable play; however, there is another consideration: The big blind has a reasonably big stack and position, and we have 120BB stacks between us. Calling and seeing the flop is probably the more prudent play. Action: I ($479.90) call. The big blind ($760) calls.
Flop ($42): I have top pair and the nut gutshot, but I am not comfortable betting this into two opponents in this mid-SPR situation. Action: I check, and it gets checked around.
Turn ($42): Now I have two pair, but a possible straight is out. Action: I check, and it gets checked around.
Free $50
Free $50
River ($42): Now my two pair has been counterfeited. Action: I check. The big blind checks. The button bets $42. This is a judgment call. That said, I can’t do much better than guess. Action: I fold, and the big blind folds. Playing out of position sucks. Hand #8: 3-Betting OOP, Top Two Pair The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($957.20) raises to $8. The small blind folds. I ($579) re-raise to $26, and my opponent calls. I wanted to try it.
Flop ($54): Top two pair should be bet. Action: I bet $54, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($162): The obvious straight card hit, but gives me a nut gutshot. With $499 left to play, let’s say I bet the pot; if I get raised all-in, I would be getting $823:$337 or 2.4:1, but I would figure to have seven, maybe eight outs (four outs to a full house, plus three or four outs to the straight, depending on whether my opponent has a flush draw to go with the straight), and would be worse than 4:1 against improving. Or if I bet and get called, I would have a difficult river decision almost regardless of what comes, unless I fill up or make the nut straight. The alternative is checking-and-calling, and perhaps giving my opponent a chance to bet something I can beat. Or…I could checkfold, which has to be an option. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
River ($162): Having filled up, I must bet. Action: I bet $118, and my opponent calls, showing K♠ J♣ 9♦ 3♣ for trip nines. Hand #9: Nut Flush Draw
Free $50
Free $50 The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($759.20) -- the same opponent from the previous hand -- raises to $8, and the small blind folds. I ($788) call. 3-betting is out of the question, as my hand is quite marginal. Folding would be the better option if it weren’t a min-raise. I think for a min-raise, I am pretty much obligated to play on with any suited ace.
Flop ($18): I have the nut diamond draw with a double-gutter. I could go for a check-raise, or I could just bet my draw. Action: I bet $18, and my opponent folds. Hand #10: A-A-x-x, Top Set The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($1,643.70) opens with a raise to $14, and it gets folded to me. I really hate 3-betting out of position. I do have a premium-class A-A-x-x hand with a suit and connectors, though I almost think I need to be double-suited to really merit a 3-bet sitting 100BBs deep. Action: I ($400) re-raise to $44, and my opponent calls.
Flop ($90): Flopping top set makes things easier. I will bet. Action: I bet $68, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($226): I turned the overfull, and now the question is how to play it. There is $226 in the pot, and $288 left to play, so more than one bet needs to go in. I could check here and hope for a bet from a bare ace or air; or I could initiate the action myself and hope to draw a call from a bare ace or king, or even a bluff raise. This means that I need to bet enough that a river shove won’t be out of place, but small enough to give my opponent room to shove. Action: I bet $100, and my opponent folds. Or he could just fold. Hand #11: K-K-x-x Facing a 3-Bet
Free $50
The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed Free $50 My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($1,469.70) opens with a raise to $14. The cutoff ($386) re-raises to $48, and the button folds. I like my kings with a suited ace, but I don’t want to go up against a raise and a 3-bet while out of position. 4-betting with kings 140BBs deep would be suicide. Action: I ($578.40) fold, and the small blind folds. The hijack calls.
Flop ($102): The hijack checks. The cutoff checks.
Turn ($102): The hijack checks. The cutoff bets $102, and the hijack folds. Hand #12: K-K-x-x Top Set The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Free $50
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($1,430.60) opens with a raise to $14. The cutoff ($1,120.10) calls, but the button folds. Free $50 I’m definitely not 3-betting with kings sitting over 200BBs deep. Folding isn’t as terrible an option as it might sound. That said, I will opt to call. Action: I ($925.70) call. The big blind ($400) re-raises to $70, and both the UTG player and cutoff call. Well, I am not folding now. Action: I call.
Flop ($280): I flopped top set, but on a board with a possible Broadway straight on it, and in a four-way pot to boot. I cannot bet. Action: I check, and it gets checked around.
Turn ($280): I turned the overfull, which is likely winning. I could bet, but anybody who can call two bets (K-J-x-x or T-T-x-x, or maybe J-T-x-x) will likely bet the turn themselves. Meanwhile, I don’t rate to get more than one bet out of anything else. But if I check, perhaps somebody will take a stab at it. Action: I check, and it gets checked around.
River ($280): Betting is the only real option. Action: I bet $198, and everybody folds. Hand #13: 4-Betting OOP The game: $2-$4 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
By way of background, the button has been 3-betting at virtually every opportunity. Pre-flop: The hijack ($658.70) opens with a raise to $12. The button ($492.50) re-raises to $42. I could -- and probably should -- fold here from the small blind, facing a raise and re-raise. Action: I ($400) re-raise to $142. My thought here is that I probably have the button beat with my ace-high -- with high cards and double-suits -- and that by 4-betting I might be able to knock out the original raiser, and get heads up with the button in an ultra-low-SPR (SPR < 1) situation. Action: The big blind ($577.80) calls. I don’t know what the big blind thinks he is doing. Action: The hijack re-raises to $610. The button calls all-in. Oh boy. Well, at this point, I can’t fold for less than one bet -- it is only another $258 for me to call, and there is already $1,084 in the pot for me to play for (I am the short stack in this affair, having started with $400, and so that is $400 each for the hijack and the button, and $142 each for me and the small blind, $50 for $1,084 total). Plus I can figure that the big blind is good to call for his stack, so it is implicitly $258 to call for an effective $1,342 pot -- orFree about 5.2:1 --
meaning $50 that I only need 16% equity to justify a call. Free Even if somebody has A-A-x-x, I still have to figure I have better than 16% equity four-ways. Action: I call. The big blind calls.
Flop, Turn, River (Main Pot: $1,600, Total Pot: $2,048.10): The hijack shows A♣ A♦ 3♠ 3♥. The button has K♠ Q♦ J♣ 9♦, and the big blind has 9♣ 8♦ 6♠ 5♠. The actual equities before the flop: Me (A♠ Q♠ J♥ 8♥): 20% Big Blind (9♣ 8♦ 6♠ 5♠): 24% Hijack (A♣ A♦ 3♠ 3♥): 34% Button (K♠ Q♦ J♣ 9♦): 23% So I was probably correct in calling the 5-bet, as my 20% equity > 16%, and this is among the worst case scenarios for me, where A-A-x-x is out. However, I still gave up 5% in aggregate on the play, as my fair share of the pot needed to be 25%, as I put in 25% of the main pot. Interestingly, if you give the A-A hand another club, as in A♣ A♦ 3♣ 3♥ so that it is now suited, I improve to 21%, the Hijack improves to 38%, but the 9-86-5 hand drops to 20% and the K-Q-J-9 hand drops to 21%. Also noteworthy is that heads up against the K♠ Q♦ J♣ 9♦ hand on the button, I am a 59%/41% favorite. But then even those times I do get heads up with the button, the button will have a playing advantage in that I will shove every time, but he will simply fold those times he misses the flop completely. Three-ways excluding the big blind, the equities are 23% for me, 27% for the button, and 50% for the hijack. In that case, I am well short of 33% breakeven equity. And heads up with the A♣ A♦ 3♠ 3♥ hand, I am a 38%/62% dog, though a 36.5%/63.5% dog if you give him A♣ A♦ 3♣ 3♥ for a suit. I think it’s just really hard for 4-betting from the small blind to be correct in this situation, because there is not a whole lot of upside to it -- even in the case where the big blind and hijack fold and I get heads up with the button, I am still not more than a marginal favorite. I suppose the flip side is that even the worst case scenarios aren’t all that disastrous, either, as there aren’t any situations like in hold’em where I am giving up a 40%, 50%, or even 60% edge. I guess the bottom line is that 4-betting from the small blind in this spot is not much more -- or less -- than gambling. Hand #14: 3-Betting from the Big Blind, Delayed C-Bet The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($55.40) opens with a raise to $1.10. The small blind ($15.55) calls. I ($56.30) re-raise to $4.40. The button calls, but the small blind folds. This is not really a great play one way or another, though I’ll qualify that by saying that I didn’t think a whole lot of the player on the button. I am doublesuited with a speculative wrap hand. I’m not real fond of the play. I just wanted to try it.
Flop ($9.90): I flopped a gutshot with two backdoor flush draws. I have a choice between betting out and checking to try to get the free card. I could go either way. Action: I check. My opponent checks. It helps to have a weak opponent.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($9.90): There is about one good play here now: Bet. Action: I bet $6.50. My opponent folds. Hand #15: 3-Betting from BB, Top Pair The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($62.06) calls. The next two players fold. The button ($63.40) calls. The small blind ($74.75) raises to $2.50. I ($45) re-raise to $8.50. The UTG player folds. The button and small blind call. I just wanted to try it and see if I could make two players behind me fold. I probably won’t try it again anytime soon. At least I have a decent hand. The SPR is 1.4.
Flop ($26): The small blind bets $13. Ordinarily, top pair is a shove in a low-SPR situation. But in this case, there is a possible -- and likely -- straight out, and I still have the other player left to act behind me. I also have no flush draw or another legitimate draw. The play is to give this one up. Action: I fold. The last player folds. Hand #16: Clearout The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max, deep), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($112.95) calls. The button folds. The small blind ($50) raises to $2. I have a premium, premium-class drawing hand with a perfect double-suited rundown. I also have an opportunity to re-raise the small blind, which will serve to either isolate him (good result) or build a bigger, three-way pot (also a good result). Action: I ($119.05) re-raise to $6.50. The UTG player folds. The small blind calls. Cool.
Flop ($13.50): My opponent checks. I flopped the third-nut flush draw and a fistful of overcards, on a board with small straight cards. We also have an SPR of 3.2. The problem with betting is that, without the nut flush draw, I cannot reasonably stand a raise. The best play is to check and take the free card.
Free $50
Action: I bet $13.50. My opponent raises all-in to $43.50, and I fold. Free $50 Whoops. Hand #17: 4-Betting from the Big Blind The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The hijack ($70.90) opens with a raise to $1.75. It gets folded to the small blind ($79.05), who re-raises to $5.75. Now here’s the situation: The small blind has been 3-betting from the blinds all session, which has been maybe a dozen rounds now. He probably doesn’t have A-A-x-x, and if even he does, I can’t be in terrible shape because I don’t have an ace in my hand. I have a marginal/speculative hand that does OK heads up with the positional advantage. The problem is that in order to get heads up with the positional advantage, I’d have to 4-bet and try to knock out the hijack, who may or may not fold, and then hope to dodge a 5-bet from the small blind -- which wouldn’t be the end of the world, but is not the desired result. Calling is pretty much out of the question, as my hand isn’t that good and I don’t really need to play for three bets if I am going to wind up in the middle. But even if I do 4-bet and succeed in knocking out the hijack and without having the small blind 5-bet me, I’d be heads up in a low-SPR (SPR ~ 2) pumpand-shove situation. That’s not terrible, but I can do better for my money than that. Folding would be the prudent play. Action: I ($50.75) re-raise to $9.75. Both opponents call. OK, so that didn’t quite go as planned, but whatever. I mean, what’s the worst that can happen?
Flop ($29.25): The small blind checks. I missed the flop, and lack much in the way of help. I can, however, bet and faithfully represent having 4-bet with A-A-x-x, and hope that nobody hit the ace. Action: I bet $20.50, and both opponents fold. I’ll tell you the nice thing about playing for smaller stakes is that it affords opportunities to mess around and experiment a little. Hand #18: 3-Betting K-K-3-3 The game: $0.25-$0.50 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: It gets folded to the button ($22.75), who opens with a raise to $1.50. We are about 45BBs deep between me and the button, though about 150BBs deep between me and the big blind. That said, I think my double-suited kings are enough to attack the button with a 3-bet, while the second pair gives me confidence in a deeper situation should the big blind come along. Action: I ($88.70) re-raise to $5, and the big blind ($74.65) folds. The button calls.
Flop ($10.50): I flopped the underfull in a low, low-SPR situation (SPR < 2). There’s no question I am pot-committed here; the question is whether or not I should bet. And if so, how much? I generally prefer betting here, because a c-bet looks natural. That said, I am more likely to get my opponent to play for stacks if I bet and he shoves than I am if I check and let him bet, because if I check, he will fold air if I raise, whereas he might shove air if I bet. And assuming I am betting, I should bet small enough to give my opponent room to shove, but big enough that my next bet is all-in. Action: I bet $4.50. My opponent raises all-in to $17.75. I call. My opponent shows A♣ K♠ 6♠ 5♣. So he has a nut open-ended straight draw with the nut flush draw. I probably play his hand the same way.
Turn ($46):
River ($46): I win. Hand #19: Dry Board Check-Raise Bluff The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), three-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($146.10) raises to $3.50, and the small blind folds. Sitting nearly 150BBs deep, I don’t like 3-betting out of position. Action: I ($204) call.
Free $50
Free $50
Flop ($7.50): I have no hand, no draw, and little prospect for improving. That said, this is a relatively dry board that may be ripe for a check-raise opportunity. Action: I check. My opponent bets $5. I raise to $22.50, and my opponent folds. Hand #20: Bottom Pair, Gutshot The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($87.30) opens with a raise to $3.50, and it gets folded to me. I ($100) call. Standard call with a suited ace and 17-card top-end wrap potential.
Flop ($7.50): I have bottom pair, a nut gutshot, and backdoor diamonds. I could check and see what my opponent does, or I could bet. Action: I bet $7.50, and my opponent calls.
Turn ($22.50): Now I have two pair, though a possible straight is now out. I am partial to betting the turn and trying to show down the river unimproved. This is a tough spot, because on the one hand, I don’t want to give a free card; but on the other hand, if I get called, the river will be difficult to play accurately out of position. Action: I bet $22.50, and my opponent folds. Hand #21: Overpair, Reverse Combo Float The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($103) raises to $3.50, and the hijack ($99.50) calls. The cutoff and button fold. I ($343.85) call. The big blind folds. This is a loose-ish call with relatively dry queens.
Flop ($11.50): With an overpair and a nut gutshot, I could reasonably bet this into two opponents. I opt to check, however. Action: I check. The UTG player bets $8, and the hijack folds.
Free $50
Against this weak stab c-bet, I could either raise, or call with the intention of betting the turn. Free $50 Action: I call.
Turn ($27.50): I picked up a club draw. Action: I bet $27.50, and my opponent calls.
River ($82.50): This is an interesting river card, as it gives me queens up, which now figures to be the best hand. Meanwhile, my opponent has $64 left, and there is $82.50 in the pot. I could check and hope my opponent has air and will bet, or I can bet and hope my opponent will perceive a follow through bet and call with a ten. That said, if I bet, the bet should set my opponent all-in. Action: I bet $82.50 and set my opponent all-in for his last $64. He folds. Hand #22: Check-Raise Bluff The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($100) raises to $3.50, and it gets folded to me. I ($321.70) call. A reasonable -- or reasonably loose -- call.
Flop ($7.50): This is another board on which I expect my opponent to c-bet a wide range, and where a check-raise stands a good chance of success. Action: I check. My opponent bets $5. I raise to $15, and my opponent folds. Hand #23: Check-Raising The game: $0.50-$1 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Free $50
Free $50
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($50) raises to $3.50, and the button folds. This is a reasonable 3-bet spot at 108BBs max -- factoring the big blind -- and 50BBs between me and the UTG player. I have a near premium-class Broadway wrap hand with a suited ace and a second suit. I guess it’s just not my style. Action: I ($238.70) call. The big blind folds.
Flop ($8): I have bottom pair, the nut flush draw and a nut gutshot straight draw in a mid-SPR situation (SPR 5.8) -- judgment territory. I have enough hand and draw that I am pretty comfortable check-raising and committing if I have to. Action: I check. My opponent bets $8. I raise to $32. My opponent re-raises to $46.50 all-in. I call. My opponent shows J♦ T♠ 9♠ 5♦. I am a 73%/27% favorite over the 13-card nut wrap with a flush draw.
Turn ($101):
River ($101): I win with the nut flush. Hand #24: Semi-Bluff Reverse Float The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), four-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The button ($435.25) opens with a raise to $7. The small blind folds. I ($264) call. My hand isn’t terribly strong.
Flop ($15):
Free $50
Free $50 I have options with the open-ended straight draw. I could bet this. Action: I check. My opponent bets $4. I could raise, or call and bet the turn. Action: I call.
Turn ($23): I bet $23, and my opponent calls. Well, I have a pair for backup.
River ($69): Now I have two pair. The 5♥ also puts a possible straight out. I don’t see value in betting, but I probably do have the best hand. The play is to check, and probably call a bet. Action: I check. My opponent checks, showing J♣ T♣ T♦ 9♠ for a pair of tens. I don’t understand my opponent’s call on the turn. Hand #25: 3-Betting OOP with AA The game: $1-$2 online (6-max), five-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($100) opens with a raise to $6. The button ($512.15) calls. I ($413.70) re-raise to $26. The big blind folds. The cutoff and button both call. Standard value 3-bet with a magnum A-A-x-x hand, double-suited and double-paired.
Flop ($80): We have an SPR of 14.9 between me and the button, but an SPR < 1 with the cutoff. I have a few options here. I could: a. Check and see what happens b. Bet the pot c. Bet smaller Checking might be a viable option if I expect the cutoff to bet and commit. The downside is that my check here might be suspicious, and I may wind up just giving a free card when the pot is already big. The problem with betting the pot is that there really is no point in it, where there is basically nothing I can accomplish with a full pot-sized bet that I can’t accomplish with a $40 bet. If the cutoff is going to commit, he is going to commit whether I bet $40 or $80. So really, I am trying to find a balance between not giving a free card and avoiding bloating the pot. Action: I bet $30. The cutoff raises to $74 all-in. The button folds. This works…
Free $50
Action: I call. The cutoff shows A♥ Q♠ T♠ T♦ for overfull. Free $50 …unless the cutoff has a really, really good reason for shoving.
Turn ($228): Whoops.
River ($228): I win. Justice served. Suckers. Hand #26: AKJJ 3-Bet The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Small Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The UTG player ($166.85) raises to $2. The hijack ($268.45) calls, and it gets folded to me. I ($384.20) re-raise to $10.20. The big blind folds, but the UTG player and hijack both call. I guess I just wanted to build the pot with my premium-class hand with a pair to see what would happen.
Flop ($32.80): I hit the pivot card, but nothing else. Betting into two opponents is a bad idea. Plus I could use the free card if I can get it. Action: I check. The UTG player bets $32.80, and the other player folds. I fold. Again, this is the problem with raising out of position, or playing out of position in general -- the burden is on you to hit the flop. Hand #27: A-A-Q-6ds, 3-Betting OOP The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($94.25) opens with a raise to $4.70, and it gets folded to me. I ($203.10) re-raise to $15.80, and my opponent calls. I’ve gotten a little more comfortable 3-betting out of position with double-suited aces, but I still don’t like it.
Flop ($33.30): With aces up on this paired board, the play is to check and call. The nut flush draw is a potential bonus. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
Free $50
Free $50
Turn ($33.30): I made the nut flush, worth about one bet max -- assuming it’s good. Action: I check. My opponent checks.
River ($33.30): The 9♠ is an excellent card, as it makes it less likely that a full house is out, and thus more likely that my flush is good. I should bet, with the intention of calling any raise. Action: I bet $10.50. My opponent raises to $64.80. I call. My opponent shows 8♦ 7♠ 7♥ 4♠ for not much, and I win. Hand #28: Top Set The game: $0.50-$1 online with $0.20 ante online (6-max, deep), five-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
Pre-flop: The cutoff ($204.10) opens with a raise to $3. It gets folded to the small blind ($110.35), who calls. I ($243.35) call. Standard. 3-betting would have been a horrible idea, unless I knew I was going to flop the nuts.
Flop ($10): The small blind checks. I bet $10. The button folds. The small blind calls. Standard. Sometimes you just have to bet your own hands and hope to draw action.
Turn ($30): My opponent checks. I bet $30. My opponent raises all-in for $97.15 total. I call. My opponent shows 8♣ 5♠ 3♠ 2♣ for bottom pair, a gutshot, and a flush draw.
River ($224.30): I win. My opponent’s play makes sense if he thinks I would have gone for a check-raise with top set on the flop, and thus figured I was weak or had air on the flop. The one thing for certain is that my opponent should have folded pre-flop. Hand #29: The Betting Machine The game: $2-$4 online with $0.75 ante online (6-max, deep), six-handed My position: Big Blind My hand:
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Pre-flop: The button ($400) opens with a raise to $11.45. The small blind ($1,403.20) calls. I ($1,246.90) call. A somewhat loose call.
Flop ($38.85): The small blind checks. I have top pair and the nut gutshot. There are no superior options, but I like betting. Action: I bet $38.85. The button folds, but the small blind calls.
Turn ($116.55): My opponent checks. Must follow through. Action: I bet $116.55, and my opponent calls.
River ($349.65): My opponent checks. One last shot. Action: I bet $232, and my opponent folds. The Betting Machine.
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Closing Thoughts
It’s June 2008, and it is the final table of the $2,500 Pot-Limit Hold’em/ Omaha event of the 2008 World Series of Poker at the Rio in Las Vegas. Playing four-handed, Kyle Kloeckner -- a professional player from St. Louis -- opens with a raise, and only Allen Cunningham calls out of the blinds. The flop comes 4-4-3 with two clubs, and both players check. The turn is a 5, putting out a possible straight. Cunningham checks, and once again, Kloeckner checks behind. The river is a jack. Cunningham checks again. Kloeckner also checks, showing down Q-J-9-6 for jacks up and busted clubs, beating Cunningham’s A-Q9-8, or ace-high. I learned a lot about this game from watching Kyle play that hand, as well as a number of other hands he played on his way to a second-place finish in that tournament. Kyle would go on to use his high-variance, super-LAG style of play to wreak havoc and final-table the $1,500 PLO tournament at the WSOP less than a week later. Checking ≠ Giving Up the Pot (Not Always, Anyway) There’s a certain mindset you develop as a poker player; some of you might know what I am talking about, others might not. And I don’t know if it comes from starting out with limit poker, but it has to do with aggression. You see, it is pretty easy to be aggressive, and it’s pretty easy to keep your foot on the pedal -- all you have to do is keep betting. The problem that aggressive players (and maniacs) have is learning how to check. Now I’m not talking about slowing down and checking when you know you are beat; what I am talking about is firing away because you fear that checking is akin to showing that you are weak, and thus akin to giving up the pot. The truth, as I have come to realize, is that the ability to check a hand down is a sign of control, and a true sign of an expert player. I’ll put it this way: If you can check back the flop and turn and keep a competent player from trying to steal the pot on the flop, turn, or river, it is a sign of respect. It means you are doing something awfully right. It means that your opponent knows that you are checking behind hands that have some value on the flop, whether it is a marginal hand that can pick off a bluff, or a marginal draw that can improve to hand that can pick off a bluff on the turn or river. Granted, it goes both ways -- if you are checking down and not trying to steal the pot in an otherwise obvious steal situation, it also means that you must have some respect for your opponent, because it means that you know your opponent can read an obvious potential steal and potentially check-raise you, on the bluff or otherwise. This is high-level poker. That said, for an aggressive player, learning how to check rather than c-bet with abandon is a big part of reaching that next level. Deflecting Check-Raises Earlier on in the $2,500 Pot-Limit Hold’em/Omaha event, Kyle played another hand of educational value. A player limped in, Kyle raised, and only the big blind and the limper called. The flop came A♣ K♣ 5x. Both opponents checked, and Kyle checked behind. The turn was the J♥, and everybody checked. The river was the 8♠. Everybody checked; Kyle showed down A-K-J-6 for top two pair, and won the pot. I was watching along with Luke Van Cleve, another pro from St. Louis who had developed maniacal tendencies in his PLO game. I turned to Luke and asked him about Kyle’s play on the flop -- my thought at the time was that top two should have been bet. Luke said, “He didn’t want to get check-raised.” Interesting. Later on that evening during a break in play, I asked Kyle himself about the hand. And guess what he said? “I didn’t want to get check-raised.” LAGgy players think alike. Now whether betting or checking in that spot is actually the better play is debatable, but also beside the point. In a tournament situation where survival takes precedence, you can see Luke and Kyle’s point where the alternative to checking and keeping the pot small is betting and folding to a raise, or otherwise risking playing a big pot with a marginal hand. And now, if Kyle is checking behind top two pair on the flop, are you more or less likely to attempt to steal against him on the turn? The Threat of Gambling There’s yet another aspect of Kyle’s play from those tournaments that is worth discussion, and that is pre-flop play and the threat of gambling. In the middle stage of the $1,500 PLO tournament, Kyle -- carrying one of the bigger stacks -- opened with a raise from early position. It got folded around to the big blind, who shoved all-in, and Kyle called, revealing the powerful 7-4-3-2 double-suited. Now I don’t recall who won the hand, but that, too, is irrelevant. Kyle had been blasting his way through the tournament with hands like this one (and better). That most starting hands in PLO have about 40%-60% preflop equity heads up against any other hand is quite relevant at this stage of the tournament, because not only can Kyle not be a big dog in a pre-flop, allin confrontation should you challenge him, but you cannot be big favorite over Kyle, either. Consider this situation. The tournament pays 36 spots, and there are 60 players left. The blinds are $500/$1,000, and Kyle with a $90k stack opens with Free $50 a raise to $3,500. It gets folded around to you in the big blind with a $10k stack. What do you do?
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Now you might object that I haven’t told you what your hand is, but that, too, is irrelevant. Because unless you have A-A-x-x, you have no idea where you stand in relation to Kyle’s hand; about the only thing you can say with confidence is that you are probably not more than a 60/40 favorite. And that’s assuming that you are even ahead. So your choice here is between shoving and gambling for your tournament life, or giving up your blind. The other option is the stop-and-go, or call the raise and then shove the flop no matter what comes (Allen Cunningham did just that a few hands after the hand that opened these Closing Thoughts, holding J-9-7-2; the flop came A♦ 7♠ 6♥, and Kyle insta-called with a set of aces). Of course, that choice is essentially a better version of choosing to gamble for your tournament life, as the result will be an ultra-low-SPR (one-bet) situation, where Kyle is going to call with any piece of the board or any draw. Now I know what you’re saying -- I only gave you a $10k (10BB) stack. What if you have a $40k (40BB) stack? Well, in this spot, you can’t 3-bet, because no matter what you have, and no matter what Kyle has, this is still not much better than gambling. If you re-raise the pot to $12k, Kyle is calling with any four cards, and still committing if he catches any piece of the flop in a near ultra-low-SPR situation (SPR 1.1), and you cannot gain a meaningful advantage. The best you can do is call and play a low/ mid-SPR situation (SPR 4.9), or fold. And as the stacks get bigger, your options do not improve. With a $90k stack, you are still looking at a low-SPR situation (gambling situation) if you 3-bet, but a high/mid-SPR situation out of position against a tough opponent if you call. And for at least one week in one June, Kyle successfully bowled over a pair of tournament fields while putting his opponents to gamble-or-fold decisions. Variable-Ratio Reinforcement and the Metagame Fast forward to August 2009. It’s the first week of the Fall semester at UNLV, and it’s the opening lecture in Dr. Bo Bernhard’s HOA 642: Sociology of Gambling class. Over the course of the lecture, Dr. Bernhard uses the social sciences -- biology, psychology, anthropology, economics, and sociology -to answer the question of why people gamble, and why Americans spend more money gambling than on movie tickets, theme parks, spectator sports, music events, and video games combined. And in one slide during the psychology portion of the lecture, the discussion turns to behaviorism -- which holds that in general, people pursue rewards and avoid punishments -- and in turn, B.F. Skinner, pigeons, and Skinner’s concept of variable-ratio reinforcement. In context, the discussion was both brief and relatively innocent. But for a poker player, the implication of variable-ratio reinforcement is worldly. Because we are not talking about an isolated theory with no application; rather, what we are talking about is the meta game itself -- the big picture, the grand scheme of things. We simultaneously reward our opponents’good behavior in checking to us and punish check-raise attempts by checking behind from time to time. We punish steal attempts on the flop or turn with the float, and we punish double and triple barrels by flat calling with middle and bottom set and top two pair. Every time a weak player runs into a float reinforces the idea that he cannot steal, and thus discourages further steal attempts. Every time an aggressive player barrels through and runs into middle set or two pair reinforces the idea that you are not always weak when calling down, thus raising your opponent’s perceived risk profile of making the play, which in turn discourages further attempts. These things do not always affect every opponent to an appreciable degree, but the aggregate effect is that we condition our opponents’ behavior such that the game becomes easier to play. Throwing to the Batter, Not the Mitt May 2010. I was watching a Florida Marlins-Chicago White Sox game when the announcers -- former major league pitchers Ken Harrelson and Steve Stone -- began talking about how the game has changed from their playing days. One aspect the announcers found particularly troubling was that the average modern pitcher focuses too much on throwing to the mitt, rather than throwing to the batter. According to the announcers, back in their day, pitchers never looked at the mitt, but instead focused on pitching to the batter. The batter, they said, would tell you how to pitch him. If the batter stands off the plate, he probably likes the ball inside; consequently, you pitch him away. If the batter stands on the plate, then he probably likes the ball away, and so you pitch him inside until he proves you otherwise. This kind of thinking gets lost on a lot of poker players these days as well, particularly online. In a day where player stat-tracking is readily available, a lot of players these days seem to want to target their own stats, but that is the wrong approach. You don’t target a personal c-bet percentage, a VPIP/PFR or 3-bet percentage; rather, you play your opponents. You take what they give you. If three players limp in front of you every time you are on the button, you should not be raising often; if, instead, everybody folds to you every time you are on the button, you should be opening with a raise quite often. If the blinds are loose, you should not be attacking limpers with sub-premium hands; if the blinds are tight and the limper is weak, you can be more liberal in isolating the limper with a raise. If an opponent is weak and straight forward, you should c-bet him frequently; if instead he is trickier and more likely to check-raise light, you should check behind more often. Your stats, then, are a reflection of your play, and are not the game itself. And if your play is a reflection of what your opponents are giving you, then your “ideal” stats will also change depending on who you are playing against. Moreover, as the game continues to change and your opponents continue to evolve, your “ideal” stats will also change, even if the stakes don’t. In Conclusion Poker is a constantly evolving game, and there is no better illustration of that than the fact that neither deep-stack PLO games with antes nor shallowstack PLO games (choke) even existed a year ago. But unfortunately, poker’s evolution is not always for the better -- I guarantee there is not a poker player on the planet who does not wish he knew back in 2005 all of the things he knows about poker now. Meanwhile, poker games in general have gotten a lot tougher, and easy pickings get slimmer by the day -- even in some of the small stakes games.
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What all of this requires of a player is an overall game that is more versatile -- and more fundamentally sound -- than ever before. Free $50 I know I’ve come a long way myself, even just in the time since I completed the manuscript Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy back in the summer of 2007. The guys back in St. Louis might recognize APLO Vol. I Jeff, given some thought -- I never showed the floats, except for “The Reverse Bluff-Overcall Float” (Hand #15 of Part I: Floating), and even then I only showed one person at the table (Hi Debbie!). In fact, I never got caught floating -never -- or at least not until I wrote a seven-part series about it in Card Player shortly after I left St. Louis for Las Vegas in August 2008. That said, there is no way that anybody in any of those games back in St. Louis would recognize APLO Vol. II Jeff. As I said in the Closing Thoughts of APLO Volume I, you have to be willing to do things you’ve never done before in order to improve. For me, this meant dropping down in stakes and raising every other hand, and 3-betting with abandon until I became comfortable enough playing with the initiative after the flop to play more normal stakes. The next step was to fine-tune my game to figure out what I was comfortable with. All of this required a change in mindset from pot control to attack before the flop, and all of this was done without abandoning the fundamental principles on which my game is based -- big-pot science, SPR, and position. My goal with Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy was to establish a foundation for playing Omaha games in general, but PLO in particular, in order to make the game accessible and encourage more people to play the game at the stakes I wanted to play. And with Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume I: Small Ball and Short-Handed Play and Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume II: LAG Play, I hope that I have given you, the reader, the tools and the versatility to play pot-limit Omaha at an expert level for as long as the game is played. -- Jeff Hwang, June 2010
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Acknowledgements
For starters, I’d like to thank my publisher, Matthew Hilger and Dimat Enterprises, without whom this project might not have realized its potential to be what I wanted it to be. When I sat down to start writing APLO Vol. II last summer, I kind of hit a rut. I had a plan, but when I started putting it to paper, I wasn’t sure what I had was what I wanted this project to be. I had a mishmash of ideas that I wanted to blow out rather than stuff into one book. By late summer, the concept for what was originally supposed to be one book -- LAG Play and The Short-Handed Workbook -- had become two books, and then three…and then back to one. And then as summer came to an end, I got sidetracked further -- school was starting, and I am a full-time grad student. I also bought a house that had been pretty much gutted, and work on my new home took up much of my time. And yet, throughout the whole process of writing these books, Matthew never said “Where’s the book?” or “When is this going to be done?” And when I talked about turning APLO Vol. II into two books, then three, and then back to one book, Matthew didn’t say “No, I want two books” or “I want three books.” Matthew’s only concern was that I was comfortable with the work that I would ultimately put out. In addition, he exhibited a tremendous amount of trust that I would get it right when I finally found the inspiration to finish it. That trust has been extended both ways, as I finished writing APLO Vol. III without needing to have a contract in place for it. We also have plans for at least one more. Matthew’s input upon completion of the manuscripts for both APLO Vol. II and Vol. III has also been invaluable. Matthew is both an accomplished poker player and poker book author in his own right. And while Matthew hasn’t played a lot of Omaha, he has a high-level understanding of general poker concepts which adds great value to the feedback that he has provided on my work. Another one of the perks of writing for Matthew is that I have a lot of freedom to write the way I want to. Personally, there’s little I hate more than being edited. I write the way that I think, and if I say something a certain away, it is usually because that’s the way I wanted to say it. The problem with editors -- and I have a lot of experience with a lot of different editors -- is that they think it’s their job to “fix” your work, even if there’s nothing wrong with it. And what often happens is that editors will effectively re-write your work in their voice, such that it is no longer your work. As a result, your jokes aren’t as funny, or your work doesn’t say what you wanted it to say, usually because the editors don’t know what they (or you) are talking about. Some writers need a lot of editing; I don’t. But thankfully, Matthew has an open mind about the English language, and I have a lot of control over what goes into the finished piece. I remember back when we were editing APLO Vol. I in Spring 2009, Matthew pointed out a passage that would not have passed any grammar course. “There’s something that doesn’t seem quite right about that sentence,” he said. I said, “No, that’s what I meant to say,” and into the book it went without further objection from Matthew. Matthew is a unique player in the poker book publishing business in that he has not manufactured a large ego for himself such as to interfere with his greater goal of putting out quality poker books. Yet at the same time, he has been quietly building the poker book powerhouse for the new decade. I am extremely grateful to Matthew for the opportunity to help him build it. And, as self-appointed head recruiter for Dimat Enterprises, I encourage anybody with an interest in writing and teaching any form of poker to contact either Matthew or myself. Jason Hughes When I signed with Matthew and Dimat Enterprises, one of the first things I did was reach out to Jason “El Gonso” Hughes. Jason had designed the cover for Professional No-Limit Hold’em by Ed Miller, Sunny Mehta, and Matt Flynn -- among others -- and I knew I wanted him to do mine. I’ll put it this way: Before Jason Hughes, poker book covers looked like stuff my littlest niece could have drawn in crayon. Jason is responsible for the spectacular cover designs on all three Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha books. Since APLO Vol. I, he has gone on to do the covers for several more poker books, including some other Omaha books. All of those cover designs look awesome, but none of them look as good as mine. That said, I would be proud to have you judge my books by their covers. Card Player Magazine I’d like to thank Card Player magazine for giving me a forum to establish the ideas presented in these books, as well as to help promote the game of Omaha. Much thanks goes to Editor-in-Chief Steve Radulovich for his monthly reminder that my column is overdue. Luke Van Cleve and Randy Ohel I put my trust in Luke Van Cleve and Randy Ohel to review the manuscripts for both APLO Vol. II and Vol. III. Luke and Randy both possess the qualities I Free needed in a review: Both are predominantly Omaha players who have read all of the poker books, understand the game on a fundamental level, and $50 have
had some$50 success playing a more LAG-heavy style. Free Both Luke and Randy have had an impact on the material in this book, whether direct or indirect. It’s been a couple of years now since we’ve played together, but Luke single-handedly forced me to learn how to widen my 3-bet range just to get him back for 3-betting me. Luke is also responsible for the idea that if an opponent is check-raising with too great a frequency, he will be exploitable by betting/3-betting with a relatively wide range. Randy, on the other hand, forced me to refine my approach to both floating and value-betting the river by countering my play after I gave him a copy of APLO Volume I to review prior to its release last year. As a result of having to adjust to his adjustments, I have gotten pretty good at playing with players who literally have books on the way I play. I’ve learned a lot about this game from both playing and talking about the game with both of these guys. Greg Schneider My buddy Greg Schneider is responsible for my picture on the back cover of this book. Believe it or not, that was a cell phone picture from a New Year’s party. I’ve gotten a lot of mileage out of that one. Susan Myers Susan Myers did the copyediting work on APLO Vol. II and Vol. III, as well as APLO Vol. I. Much thanks goes to Susan for picking out the little errors, but otherwise keeping my work intact.
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About the Author
Jeff Hwang is an expert blackjack player, a semi-professional poker player, a columnist for Card Player magazine, and the best-selling author of PotLimit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy and Advanced Pot-Limit Omaha Volume I: Small Ball and Short-Handed Play. A graduate of Washington University in St. Louis with degrees in both finance and management, Jeff is also an investment writer/analyst and a long-time contributor to The Motley Fool/Fool.com, a multi-media financial services company. Jeff has been an advantage player since 1999, when he took an interest in blackjack and started hitting up the cruise ships off the coast of Florida near his hometown of Ft. Lauderdale. Shortly after graduating from college in 2003, Jeff began covering the gaming industry stocks for The Motley Fool, where his highly regarded work on the gaming industry in general and the regional gaming markets in particular has led to an appearance in Cigar Aficionado, as well as in publications as geographically diverse as the Las Vegas Business Press, Macau Business, and the Baton Rouge Business Report. At the same time, Jeff also picked up poker, and began playing regularly on the riverboats in his adopted home of St. Louis. Jeff’s interest in blackjack, poker, and the gaming industry has led him to visit virtually every commercial casino in the United States, and has given him an intimate knowledge of the riverboat casinos unrivaled in the financial media. Meanwhile, the time spent playing poker primarily on the riverboats of Missouri, Mississippi, and Indiana provided the impetus for Jeff’s first book, Pot-Limit Omaha Poker: The Big Play Strategy, which was released in December 2007. In March 2008, Jeff was enlisted by Card Player magazine to write a regular column on Omaha poker, and -- given his background as an investment analyst -- bankroll management as well. And thanks in large part to the success of both the column and the book, Jeff has quickly established himself as the world’s leading authority on Omaha poker. In August 2008, in an effort to dive deeper into the gaming industry, Jeff made the move to Las Vegas and enrolled in the MBA/MS in Hotel Administration program at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. In November of that year, in a partnership of mutual interests with North Carolina-based PokerTek, Jeff began hosting a regular small-stakes PLO game on PokerTek’s PokerPro electronic poker tables in the fully-automated poker room at the Excalibur Hotel and Casino on the Las Vegas Strip. And on November 20th, 2008, Jeff hosted the official kickoff event at Excalibur with a lineup featuring Lyle Berman -- a 3-time World Series of Poker gold bracelet winner, as well as Chairman of PokerTek, Lakes Entertainment, and World Poker Tour Enterprises -- and David Sklansky, a 3-time WSOP bracelet winner, as well as perhaps the most influential poker author ever. And in July 2009, in concert with poker room management at The Venetian, Jeff brought small-stakes live PLO to fruition in Las Vegas by starting a regular $1-$2 blind game with a $5 bring-in and $500 max buy-in. That game has since become the longest-running PLO game in Las Vegas in the postMoneymaker era.
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Glossary
Ante: Aforced bet in which all players put an equal amountof money or chips into the pot before the deal begins. Bankroll: the total amount of available funds a player has allocated for poker play. Bare: with no improvers (e.g., bare two pair, or bare nut straight). Blockers: key cards in your hand that make it unlikely that the opposition has the nuts. Blocking bet: a bet made by a player out of position designed to keep the opposition from making a bigger bet. Bluff: to bet with the intention of getting a superior hand to fold. Broadway wrap: a 13-card nut straight draw to the A-K-Q-J-T straight, utilizing three cards from your hand and two community cards (i.e., A-Q-T-x on a K-J-x flop).Button: 1. a hockey puck-shaped disc designating the dealer position for a given hand; 2. the player sitting in the seat designated by the puckshaped disc.Cold-call: to call a raise without having yet put any money in the pot on a given betting round. Combo float: a float with part made hand, part draw, and part air. Continuation bet (c-bet): when the pre-flop raiser bets the flop. Cutoff seat: the player directly to the right of the dealer button. Dangler: term coined by T.J. Cloutier in Championship Omaha referring to a card that does not work in concert with the other three cards in an Omaha starting hand. Deep-stacked: to have a significant amount of money on the table. Domination: when one player is drawing dead or near-dead to a split, or otherwise to a second-best hand. Double-gutshot (double-gutter): to have two gutshot straight draws at the same time. Double-suited: an Omaha hand with two sets of suited cards, and thus two flush possibilities. Draw equity: your share of the pot derived from tangible hand value -- such as a flush or straight draw, or even a draw to two pair or trips in some cases; a combination of direct and implied equity. Dry-Ace Bluff: a bet representing the nut flush when there is three-to-a-suit on the board and you have only the ace of that suit. Duplication: when two players hold the same draw. Fixed-ratio reinforcement schedule: A schedule in which reinforcement is delivered at fixed intervals. Float equity: intangible value derived from a combination of fold equity and the value of the information our opponents give us when they check with the intention of giving up to a bet. Floating: an advanced bluffing technique where you call a bet on one street with insufficient hand values, but with the intention of taking the pot away with a bet on a later street. Fold equity: the expected gain in equity based on the probability of getting your opponents to fold to a bet. Freeroll: when two players have the same hand, but one player has a draw to a bigger hand. Gutshot: a four-out straight draw that requires hitting a card of one specific rank. Heads up: a one-on-one confrontation. High-SPR situation: when there are more than three pot-sized bets left to play; generally speaking, when the effective stack-to-pot ratio is ≥ 13; Big Play or Implied-odds territory. Hijack: the player directly to the right of the cutoff seat, and two seats to the right of the button. Implied odds: odds to call on the draw, factoring further betting action should you make your hand. Initiative: the first right to bluff after representing a made hand by betting on the previous round. Inside wrap: a nine-card straight draw. Isolation Play (3-Betting) - 3-betting to isolate the pre-flop raiser in a deep-stack situation. (Using) Leverage: to use the threat of further betting to magnify the effective size of a bet or call on the current betting round.
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Loose player: Free $50 a player who plays too many hands. Low-SPR situation: generally speaking, when the effective stack-to-pot ratio (SPR) is ≤ 4; shove-or-fold territory. Maniac: a player who is inclined to jam the pot without discretion. Marginal: sub-premium, or less than optimal. Mississippi Straddle: a straddle that is posted on the button. Technically, a pure Mississippi Straddle can be done from anywhere on the table with the button getting first priority to straddle, and the player to the right of the button getting second option, and so on. But in some places, only the button and UTG player get the opportunity to post the straddle, with the button getting first priority. Multi-way pot: a pot in which four or more players see the flop. Naked float: a float with no hand or draw. Open-ended: to have four cards in a row, two in your hand and two from the board (i.e., you hold 9-8-x-x on a 7-6-x-x board), where hitting a card at either end will complete the five-card straight. Open pair: when there are two cards of the same rank on the board (i.e. the board reads 9-9-x). Out: a card that can improve your hand to a winner. Overfull: the nut full house. Passive: disinclined to bet or raise. Pivot card: the board card that fills a gap in your hand to give you the board card that fills a gap in your hand to give you multiple backdoor wrap possibilities. For example, if you hold Q-J-9-8 and the flop comes T-3-2, then you hit the pivot card, which in this case is the ten; a seven, eight, nine, jack, queen, or king can come on the turn to give you either a 13-card or 17-card wrap. Position: where a player sits relative to the dealer button or relative to the other active players left in the hand. Pot-limit: betting structure in which the maximum bet at any point is equal to the size of the pot. Pot odds: odds to call a bet accounting only for money already in pot. Pump-and-Shove: 3-betting to build the pot and create a low-SPR situation such that there are only two bets left. Rainbow flop: a flop consisting of three cards of different suits. Raise: to bet more than the previous bettor on any given betting round. Redraws: a draw to a bigger hand when you have a made hand. Re-raise: v. to raise after an opponent has already raised; n. any raise after the first one. Resteal float: when you bet from late position, a player who suspects a steal may try to float you from out-of-position by calling your bet and then betting out on the turn, and you float him back. Reverse float: a float from out-of-position. Reverse implied odds: what you are giving when you have a hand that rates to either win a small pot or lose a big pot. Rundown: a starting hand consisting of four connecting cards. Scoop: to win the whole pot, as opposed to half or less. Second-nut: the second-best possible hand at the moment. Semibluff: a bet with a hand that does not figure to be best at the moment, but has a legitimate chance to improve to a winner on the next card. Set: three of a kind utilizing a concealed pair matched with a community card (i.e., you hold A-A-x-x and the board reads A-x-x). Short-handed pot: a pot in which either two or three players see the flop. Slowplay: to play a big hand in a weak manner. Small Ball: a loose-passive pre-flop approach to playing short-handed pots, which essentially entails playing short-handed pots with the positional advantage, but without the pre-flop initiative. Speculative: low percentage, high reward. Stopping call: a call designed to steal the initiative, either from the pre-flop raiser or another player on the possible steal. Straddle: an optional blind bet, usually posted to the left of the big blind.
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Free $50 Sucker wrap: a wraparound straight draw consisting mostly of nonnut outs. Suited Ace: an ace that shares the same suit as at least one of the other three cards in an Omaha starting hand. The nuts: the best possible hand at the moment. Three-bet (3-bet): to re-raise. Tight: having strict starting hand requirements. Tilt: emotional steaming that results in poorer-than-usual play; usually caused by a perceived bad beat or a series of perceived bad beats. Top set: three of a kind utilizing a concealed pair in your hand matched with the top community card on the board. Trash: stuff you probably shouldn’t play. Trips: three of a kind utilizing a concealed pair in your hand matched with the top community card on the board. Ultra-low-SPR territory: when the effective SPR is ≤ 1, and as such there is less than one pot-sized bet left remaining to play; pot-odds territory. Underfull: a full house where the three of a kind is of lower rank than the pair (i.e., your five-card poker hand is 9-9-7-7-7 rather than 9-9-9-7-7). Unsuited: a starting hand consisting of four cards of entirely different suits. Value bet: a bet that rates to show a profit if called. Variable-ratio reinforcement: Delivering reinforcement after a target behavior is exhibited a random number of times. Variable-ratio reinforcement schedule: Aschedule of reinforcement that uses a predetermined ratio while delivering the reinforcement randomly. Volatility: the degree of unpredictable short-term swings; the greater the expected swings, the larger the required bankroll to support it. Wheel: the A-2-3-4-5 straight. Wheel wrap: a draw to A-2-3-4-5 using three cards from your hand and two community cards (i.e., you hold A-2-3-x on a 4-5-x board). Wraparound: a straight draw bigger than the standard eight-card straight draws in hold’em; unique to Omaha poker.
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Dimat Enterprises Foreign Translations
Publishers interested in foreign translation rights may contact Dimat Enterprises at pokerbooks.InternetTexasHoldem.com. Other translations coming soon include Czech, Russian, and Portuguese. Spanish -- www.PokerBonosGratis.com La Mentalidad del Jugador de Póker Como Ganar Torneos de Poker de Mano en Mano Volumen I Como Ganar Torneos de Poker de Mano en Mano Volumen II Conceptos Avanzados de Omaha con Límite del Bote Texas Hold’em Odds y Probabilidades Italian - www.dgs3-editrice.it Internet - Vincere I Tornei di Poker Internet - Vincere II Tornei di Poker Internet - Vincere III Tornei di Poker The Poker Mindset Texas Hold’em Odds y Probabilità Pot-Limit Omaha Vol. I Pot-Limit Omaha Vol. II German -- www.sharkbooks.de Das Poker Mindset Fortgeschrittenes Pot-Limit Omaha. Band 1 Erfolg bei Pokerturnieren, Band 1 Erfolg bei Pokerturnieren, Band 2
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Peak Performance Poker: Revolutionizing the Way You View the Game By Travis Steffen
A NEW ERA OF POKER IS DAWNING As a poker player, you have a great deal in common with today’s professional athletes: You’ve dedicated serious time to learning the fundamentals; you practice regularly; you strive to improve by analyzing every move; you use psychology to hone your winning edge—and, if you don’t take care of yourself both mentally and physically, you’ll lose your winning edge... CAN YOU COMPETE WITH THE BEST? Learning to treat poker like the competitive endeavor it is—and yourself like the sportsperson you are—will give you the best chance at success every time you play. Packed with solid research and feedback from top pros, PEAK PERFORMANCE POKER will show you how to prepare your body and your mind to achieve optimal results during that next big tournament or cash game. Being in peak physical condition sharpens every aspect of your play, whereas poor diet and neglect of your emotional life undermine your game at every turn. Just ask Daniel Negreanu, Phil Hellmuth, and the other top pros featured in this book, all of whom understand crucial aspects of PEAK PERFORMANCE POKER, including: • “Flow”—what it means to top athletes and why it’s equally important to you • Chips on the table, not on your plate—eating right to improve your game • Taking it easy—how essential rest and recovery really are • Getting psyched—applying sports psychology to help you win • Time management—the benefits of balancing poker with the rest of your life The modern poker table is the domain of smart, fit, healthy competitors; let PEAK PERFORMANCE POKER seat you with the best of them.
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Small Stakes No-Limit Hold’em By Ed Miller, Sunny Mehta & Matt Flynn
Small stakes no-limit hold’em cash games offer remarkable opportunities...if you come armed with the right skills. To win in today’s game you need to draw on a complete arsenal of the latest theories, strategies, and tactics. Now, available for the first time in print, this ultimate handbook outlines a powerful path to success, as three of the world’s top experts—noted poker authority Ed Miller, top pro Sunny Mehta, and renowned practical theorist Matt Flynn—put their expertise to work for you. Using hand examples from actual play to illustrate key concepts, Small Stakes No-Limit Hold’em translates high-level poker theory into an easy-to-learn format that will give you the edge needed to win in today’s games. You’ll learn solid money-winning tactics and be able to craft winning strategies just like the top cash-game pros. Get the lowdown on: ♦ 7 easy steps to no-limit hold’em success ♦ Making decisions using steal equity and showdown equity ♦ Beating online 6-max games ♦ Isolating bad players and handling tough, aggressive players ♦ Determining optimal bluff sizes and planning big bluffs ♦ Balancing your lines of play to maximize deception ...and much more! Poker is a fun game, but it’s even more fun when you win. With Miller, Mehta, and Flynn as your mentors, you will have all the advanced-yet-practical information you need to dominate any small stakes no-limit hold’em cash game.
♠♦♣♥♣♦♠ Ed Miller is one of the world’s best-known and respected poker educators. He’s authored five books which have sold over 200,000 copies worldwide. Sunny Mehta has been successfully making a living as a no-limit hold’em cash game pro for over five years. Sunny has played as high as $25-$50 and won at every level he’s tackled. Matt Flynn is an expert in no-limit hold’em theory. Matt’s incredible math background and degrees from Harvard, Stanford, and Duke, provide the book with a solid theoretical grounding.
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The Poker Mindset: Essential Attitudes for Poker Success By Ian Taylor & Matthew Hilger
What “secret” separates top poker players from poker wannabes? Is it zen-like mind-reading skills, a computer-like brain or thousands of hours of play? No. It is a series of established approaches and behaviors that enables these experts to bring their “A” game to the table session after session, regardless of short-term results. In this groundbreaking book, Taylor and Hilger lay bare the secrets of the Poker Mindset: seven core attitudes and concepts that ensure you have the optimal emotional, psychological, and behavioral framework for playing superior poker. The Poker Mindset deeply explores vital topics that most poker books only touch upon: • Tilt: What it really is, why and when you are most prone to it, and how you can avoid it. • Bankroll: A complete examination of bankroll management from a technical, but more importantly, from a psychological and emotional viewpoint. • Opponents: How to determine your competitors’ mental and emotional processes so that you can dominate, out think and outplay them. • Downswings: Every poker player experiences them, but you will truly understand and be armed against low ebbs when they occur. • Bad Beats: The Poker Mindset will enable you to overcome the trauma of bad beats and losing big pots. Poker is a fun game, but it is even more fun when you win. The Poker Mindset may be the most valuable poker book you will ever read. Embrace its concepts and you can overcome the unseen obstacles that are limiting your success at the table. When you make the Poker Mindset your mindset, you will take control of your game and walk away a winner.
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Winning Poker Tournaments One Hand at a Time By Eric “Rizen” Lynch, Jon “PearlJammer” Turner, and Jon “Apestyles” Van Fleet
Want to win poker tournaments? Now you can learn exactly how consistent winners REALLY do it. Meet “PearlJammer”, “Rizen”, and “Apestyles”. These top guns of tournament poker are frequent winners in today’s highly competitive online scene, as well as in live tourneys. Their collective experience and track record is staggering: more than 35,000 tournaments played, more than 1,000 final tables made, over 200 major wins, and more than $6,000,000 in cashes. They regularly outplay fields consisting of other top professionals—victories that are documented by detailed online hand histories Are you ready to learn winning ways from today’s true tournament experts? The authors are not only consistent winners, but powerful teachers as well. Step-by-step, they reveal their decision-making processes, using hands drawn from actual play—not examples contrived to fit a particular poker theory. Reading this book is like attending a master class in tournament poker. • You’ll see the way cutting-edge pros use their wisdom and incredibly extensive experience to analyze almost every poker situation imaginable. Deepstacked or short-stacked, against single or multiple opponents, you’ll learn the skills that will make you a winner including: • When and how to play aggressively or tightly • When to make moves • When to make continuation bets and when to hold back • How to induce and pick off bluffs • How to accumulate chips without constantly risking your tournament life Poker is a fun game, but it’s even more fun when you win. If you want to become a great tournament player, shouldn’t you be learning from the best? NOW You can!
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Winning Poker Tournaments One Hand at a Time Volume2 By Eric “Rizen” Lynch, Jon “PearlJammer” Turner, and Jon “Apestyles” Van Fleet
YOU’RE IN THE MONEY...NOW WHAT? You’ve put in the time, you’ve built up your stack, and now, at last, you’re inching ever closer to serious tournament payoffs. At this stage, playing smart is more crucial than ever, and who better to give you the edge than three of modern poker’s greatest tournament pros? THEY’LL TAKE YOU FROM THE BUBBLE TO THE FINAL TABLE Volume 1 of this series shed new light on the fundamentals, and now in, Volume 2, Pearljammer, Apestyles and Rizen—players whose collective stats include, more than 1,800 final tables made, over 300 major wins, and more than $10,000,000 in cashes—return to show you how to crush the final table. When deep in a tournament, the ability to analyze opponents’ play is more than an advantage—it’s a necessity. In this exciting follow-up, you get to sweat the best as they walk you through the key hands of actual tournaments: what they did right, what they did wrong, and what you need to do to win, including: • How to use the changing dynamic of stack size to your advantage as the field narrows • The unique strategies and tactics of Final Table play • How to dominate weak players and outthink strong players • How to take maximum advantage of your table image to confound your competition • How hand selection changes in short-handed and heads-up play Poker is a fun game, but it’s even more fun when you win. Online or live, you need to keep your cool and make the right moves to enjoy big-money finishes. If you’ve gotten this far, these top professionals will help you go all the way.
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