SHAKER-STYLE WORKBENCH
© 2012 August Home Publishing Co.
Heirloom Project
shaker-style Workbench This traditional and solid design is as useful today as it was 200 years ago. It has all the features you need for building great projects. I’ve designed and built several workbenches over the years, some traditional and some more modern. But when it comes to Old-World, hand-tool craftsmanship, this very traditional style is tough to beat. This bench — inspired by the massive benches used by Shaker craftsmen — has sound construction, an ample worksurface, and an easyaccess storage cabinet. It’s also designed to hold just about any size or shape of workpiece
1
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at whatever angle you need for sawing, planing, scraping, or sanding. The tail vise and accompanying dog holes can accommodate flat workpieces. The leg vise works in con junction junction with with a sliding sliding board board jack to to hold even the largest workpieces on edge for work with a hand plane. Whether you’re jointing an edge, cutting dovetails, or surface planing stock, this solid-wood bench will absorb the forces of most hand-tool operations without a wobble.
I used a combination of mortise and tenon joinery along with a few long bolts to make sure the base is sturdy enough for any task or project. The bolts allow you to periodically tighten things up to eliminate racking. On top of the rugged design, the beautiful Douglas fir will inspire your craftsmanship for years to come. All in all, this bench will be an indispensable tool and provide generations of service.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 331 ⁄ 4"D x 90"L x 341 ⁄ 2"H Benchtop is a lamination of edge-grain strips ripped from 8/4 stock
NOTE: Assembling benchtop in sections allows you to flatten each section using a planer
Square bench dog holes are cut before assembling the top (see page 8 for details) NOTE:
Updated tail vise is easy to build Cleat screwed to upper rails fixes benchtop in position
Stretchers attach to legs with carriage bolts, nuts, and washers
Board jack supports workpieces held in the leg vise
Tenons on rails are secured with pegs
Traditional leg vise is built with off-the-shelf hardware
Solid-wood track on front rail and underside of front edge of the benchtop allows board jack to slide to any position
Chamfer softens the corners while the decorative lamb's tongue adds another traditional detail
Shop-made decorative plate serves as a washer for the carriage bolts that connect the stretchers to the rails
Plans for the cabinet, shelf, and drawers that fit below the top of the workbench begin on page 15 NOTE:
For information on where to find the hardware necessary to build the bench, see Sources on page 21 NOTE:
{
2
The tail vise features strong jaws, but it really shines when holding a workpiece flat between bench dogs.
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Contrasting walnut pegs lock rail tenons in mortises
{ One
way to personalize the bench is to add decorative stippling. The details can be found on page 12.
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{
A sliding board jack makes supporting long boards a snap. The peg can be set for any width of workpiece.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
a.
mortises in 3 !/2" - square legs are centered on width
NOTE: All
3!/2
2
3%/8
B
A
B
5 &/8
!#/16" -dia. A
1#/4
LEG A
3 31!/2
1
2
2
3%/8
6
b.
3!/2
2
through hole
&/16
Mortise is 2" deep
2#/4" square mortise
31!/2
B
VISE LEG
1!/4
1!/8
2
1&/8" dia.hole
2#/16 SIDE SECT. VIEW
2!/4
8 !/4 3
SIDE SECTION VIEW
Mortise is !/2"deep 1
c.
TOP SECTION VIEW
d.
A
LEG
8 &/8 9%/8
A
12!/4
6 !/2
3!/2 1
&/16" dia. NOTE: All
parts are glued up from 8/4 stock !/8" roundover on
bottom and side edges
starting with the LEGS The first requirement for any workbench is, of course, stability. It needs to be able to stand up to the weight of heavy projects, blows from a mallet, and the racking forces of hand planing. And while the solid-wood top you’ll add later provides part of the solution, it all starts with a sturdy base. For that, I relied on heavy-duty
2 !/2
3!/2
A
Drill 2"-dia. counterbore first, then the 1!/8"-dia. through hole
a.
2#/16
END SECT. VIEW
Template
Center piece of template is width of mortise
Mortise. Attach the template to the leg with double-sided tape. Then use a plunge router to rout the mortises. 3
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Drill &/16 "-dia. through hole , centered on mortise width
A
Drilling Bolt Holes. After routing the stretcher mortises, drill the bolt holes at the drill press. WS20028
Forstner bit END SECTION VIEW
a.
Pattern bit
A
BACK VIEW
legs, rails, and stretchers assembled If you cut them a little oversize, using mortise and tenon joinery. it’s a simple matter to joint them I started work on the base by square and plane them to final building two rock-solid end assem- thickness and width. JOINERY. After the legs are cut and blies. Although the left end needs to accommodate the leg vise and has a squared up, you can turn your few different details, the construc- attention to the joinery. But before tion of both is similar. Stretchers tie you begin, you’ll want to label the ends together. each leg according to its position. No two legs are the same, so it’s LEGS. The end assemblies begin with a pair of legs. All but the left important to avoid confusion. I front leg are 31 ⁄ 2" square. In order to also laid out the position of every accommodate the leg vise, the left joint on the face of each leg while I front leg is wider (6"). had them on the bench. I glued up 8/4 stock to attain the All of the legs have mortises for necessary thickness for the legs. both the upper and lower rails.
How-To: Mortise & Counterbore
Waste
Lamb's tongue and chamfer on outside corner of legs only
B
B
2" dia. 1!/8" dia.
Drilling the Counterbore. Drill the large diameter hole first, then swap bits and drill the through hole of the leg vise screw. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
And they also have mortises for the stretchers. Because these mortises are all quite long and deep, I used a plunge router to cut them. To guide the router, I made a template for each mortise. This technique guarantees they’re all sized accurately. It also leaves very smooth walls in the mortises to ensure strong glue joints. ROUTER TEMPLATES. There’s nothing fancy about the templates that I made. All you need to do is use some scrap wood or plywood to assemble them. Just cut two pieces to the width of the mortise and glue them between two longer pieces, making sure to size the opening to match the mortise. After laying out the location, affix the template to the leg with double-sided tape and begin routing. Start with a dado-cleanout bit, then switch to a pattern bit. The left drawing at the bottom of the previous page has the details. Take several shallow passes, increasing the depth after each one. Then clean up the corners using a chisel. LAMB’S TONGUE. Now, you can start on the lamb’s tongue chamfer on three of the legs. (The vise leg does not share this profile.) For this, start by installing a chamfer bit in the router table. I also marked the centerline of the bit on the fence. This way, you can make start and stop marks on the leg blank to define the length of the chamfer. You can see what I mean in the How-To box at right. You’ll complete the lamb’s tongue with a chisel. BOLT HOLES. At this point, I drilled the bolt holes in the stretcher mortises on the back legs. By drilling them now, you can use the drill press to keep them straight and make sure they’re centered on the width of the mortises. As you can see in the right drawing on page 3, I also routed another square mortise to hold the vise hardware on the back side of the leg. Then I drilled holes in the vise leg for the vise screws. On the front side, the hole for the vise screw needs to be counterbored for the nut. For this, I just used a Forstner bit. 4
How-To: Lamb’s Tongue Pull leg away from bit when second layout line reaches bit centerline SECOND:
1
6 !%/16
Layout line 4
Tall aux. fence
B
Centerline of bit
Round Hollow
a.
END VIEW
!/2 !/2
1&/16 "-dia. chamfer bit
FIRST: Pivot leg
into bit so that top layout line aligns with bit centerline
LAMB'S TONGUE TEMPLATE (full size)
Stopped Chamfer. The key to accurate stopped chamfers is the layout marks on the workpiece and the fence. After that, all you need to do is match them up and hold the workpiece flat while routing.
2
3
Waste B
Use a chisel to square up ends of chamfer
V-notch blocks help to secure leg while chiseling
Lay template along leg chamfer and leg edge to trace lamb's tongue profile
Square the Ends. You’ll need to clean up the ends of the chamfers with a chisel before moving on to carving the lamb’s tongue.
4
Lamb's Tongue Profile. Use the template above to trace the lamb’s tongue profile onto the sides of the workpieces.
5
Work from both sides to shape hollow
Take light cuts to prevent tearout
Chamfer Avoid marring chamfer surface
Waste
Carving the Profile. Take light cuts and pay attention to the grain direction as you rough out the profile with bench or paring chisels.
6
Completing the Rough-Out. Make the last few paring cuts with the grain and check the profile from both sides.
7 Hand sand round to smooth surface Use a dowel with sandpaper to clean up hollow
Refine the hollow with a carving knife
Refining the Shape. A carving knife is the perfect tool for cleaning up the chiseled surfaces and refining the profile.
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Sanding. If necessary, wrap a small piece of 220-grit sandpaper around a 1 ⁄ 2"-dia. dowel for the final cleanup.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
#/8"-dia. x 3"
walnut dowel
Notch cut at front end of rail only
2
4!/2
!/2
!/2
C C
#/8
b.
a.
Add !/16 " chamfer around end of dowels before inserting
#/8
UPPER RAIL
22
4!/8
1
26
!/4
#/8
&/16 "-dia.
hole
3
6 !/4
1
1
8 !/4
#/8
1#/4
9
D
C
D
1
1#/4
c.
D
!/2
Drill #/8"-dia. x 2!/2"-deep hole for dowel pins after assembly
LOWER RAIL
Rails are made from 1#/4"-thick stock
#/8
1 2!/4
#/8
#/4"-dia. x #/4"-deep
hole to store board jack peg 17
4!/2
6 !/4
NOTE:
d.
10!/2
C
completing the
Leg
Tenons are pinned in mortises with #/8"-dia. x 3 " walnut dowels NOTE:
BASE FRAME
D
Dowel sits !/16 " proud of leg surface
FRONT SECTION VIEW
Once you’ve completed the four legs, it’s time to get busy on the rails and stretchers. The rails connect each pair of legs and form the end subassem blies. After that, you’ll connect the two ends with the three stretchers. RAILS. As you can see in the drawing above, the two rails are different widths, but both need a 1"-thick x 2"-long tenon. You can start by cutting both rails to final length and width.
TENONS. The
box below shows how I cut the tenons using a dado blade and a long auxiliary fence on the miter gauge. I also set the rip fence to match the length of the tenon. Now you can cut the tenons by raising the blade to sneak up on a snug fit in the mortises you cut in the legs earlier. Then cut the small notch in the upper rails (detail ‘a’). CUT THE RABBET. You’ll notice that the upper rails are rabbeted on the top
edge to form a long tongue. This tongue fits into a dado you’ll cut in the benchtop later. I cut the rab bets using the dado blade in the table saw by attaching an auxiliary rip fence and burying part of the blade. Then, it’s a simple matter to cut perfect rabbets. The left drawing at the bottom of the next page shows the details. STRETCHER MORTISE. The lower rail has a shallow mortise in order to hold
How-To: Tenons & Notches C
Rip fence
Rip fence
a. #/4"dado
blade
C
Tall aux. miter fence
C
Aux. rip fence
a. END VIEW
END VIEW
2
a.
END VIEW
!/4
2 !/2
#/8
#/8
Tenons. With a long auxiliary fence on the miter gauge and the rip fence used as a stop, cut the tenons using a dado blade. 5
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Shoulder Cuts. You can use the same blade and fence setup to make the shoulder cuts on the tenons. WS20028
Upper Rail Notch. Install an auxiliary rip fence and bury part of the dado blade to cut the notch in the upper rail.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
BACK STRETCHER E
#/8"-dia. x 8"
4
carriage bolt 57
the center stretcher. The box below walks you through the process. I made a template and routed out the waste, then squared up the mortise with a chisel. Finish up by drilling the holes for the bolts. At this point, you can dry fit the rails into the legs and clamp everything in position. After making sure everything is square, drill the holes for the dowel pins at the positions shown in the main drawing and detail ‘d’ on the previous page. Remove the clamps and cut the walnut dowels to length. Brush glue in the mortises, on the tenons, and on the dowels, then assemble the ends.
58 Back and center stretchers are attached with #/8"-dia. x 8"carriage bolts, nuts, and washers
NOTE:
7 58 #/4
Shop made aluminum plate, refer to page 19
59#/4
54!/2
Stretchers are made from 8/4 stock b. Lower rail NOTE:
55 !/2
G
FRONT STRETCHER
NOTE: Front stretcher is assembled without glue
d.
TOP SECTION VIEW
1#/4
5 !/2
1!/2
E
Back leg
#/8 #/8
#/8
Aluminum plate
G
STRETCHERS
The two end assemblies are joined with three stretchers: One at the back, one at the front, and one centered on the lower rails. While the mortise and tenon joints on the end rails are glued, the stretchers are joined using long bolts. This is a great way to allow for periodically tightening up the base. RIP TO WIDTH. The stretchers are made from 13 ⁄ 4"-thick stock ripped to the widths shown in the drawing above. After ripping them, cut each one to final length. Each stretcher also requires a 1 ⁄ 2"long tenon on both ends. While all are the same length and thickness, you’ll note that the tenons on the
3
CENTER F STRETCHER
c.
!/8"
F
1#/4
4
1!/4
E
a.
!/2
1!/4
1!/2
roundover #/8
Lower rail
TOP SECTION VIEW
Back leg
2
upper back stretcher are a little different. There is no shoulder cut on the upper edge. Instead, this edge of the tenon sits flush with the top of the leg (detail ‘d’). POCKETS. The back and center stretchers have another feature — D-shaped pockets in the back. These pockets hold the nuts and washers for the bolts (details ‘b’ and ‘c’). To cut the pockets to shape, I made another router template, as shown in the right drawing below.
F
BACK VIEW
PLATES. As a finishing touch, I made decorative plates for the ends of the center rail. (Details in Shop Notebook on page 19.) The bolts fit through the plates. ASSEMBLY. Now it’s time to assem ble the base. Just fit the stretchers into the mortises (without using glue) and drill the holes into the end grain of the stretchers using the holes in the rails as your guide. Then add the nuts, bolts, and washers to complete the assembly.
{ The
decorative plate also serves as a washer.
Rabbets, Mortise, & Pockets Aux. fence
C
!/2" dado clean-out bit
Clean up corners with chisel
a.
Plunge router with pattern bit #/4" radius
D
#/4"dado blade
END VIEW
1#/4
Clean up corners with chisel
Template !/2
Template
1
D
END SECTION VIEW
Rabbets. Using the auxiliary rip fence again, cut the long rabbets to form the tongue on the upper rail.
Stretcher Mortise. Attach the template to the lower rail with double-sided tape and rout the stretcher mortise.
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F
1!/2
a.
a.
!/2 #/8
6
Template
F
B
1!/2
END SECT. VIEW
Rout pocket in multiple passes NOTE:
Stretcher Pockets. The bearing on a pattern bit follows the template to rout the pockets in the back and center stretchers. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Top sections are made from 1#/4"-thick hardwood, ripped into 3!/8"widths and turned on their side to expose straight edge grain NOTE:
NOTE: Benchtop is glued up in sections to allow planing prior to final assembly
H
BENCHTOP
H
a.
!!/16
TOP VIEW
2
12
H
1!/16
Benchdog holes
3#/4
86 !/2
5 #/4
b. H
1
80#/4
85°
3!/2
!/2
1
J
!/2
59!/2
1
70
!/4 !#/16
I
7 !/4
TAIL VISE SECTION
70
J
BENCH DOG STRIP NOTE: Bench dog section and back strip of benchtop are glued on after cutting the dadoes on the underside of the benchtop
Finished width of top is 29 #/4" NOTE:
NOTE: See Shop Notebook, page 16, for more information about routing bench dog holes
c. H
1!/4
building the TOP As I said earlier, mass is important in a workbench. And this laminated, solid-wood top provides mass in spades. Assembling the top in narrower sections is the way to go. This method also allows you to make a few preparations for the tail vise assembly. PREPARE THE BLANKS. The first step in a successful glueup is to start with properly planed and square blanks. The strips will be turned on their sides to expose the edge grain in the assembled top, so by planing both
FRONT SECTION VIEW
3#/4
2
1 !/2
!/2 FRONT SECTION VIEW
sides you effectively joint the edges that will be glued up. Remember, you’ll be planing the assembled sections later, so don’t cut the pieces to final width or length yet. This gives you the option of cutting off any checking or planer snipe and planing the sections to final thickness. RIP THE STRIPS. I started at the table saw with a good rip blade. Just set the rip fence and rip the stock into 18 strips (this gives you one extra to help out with grain matching).
LAY OUT THE STRIPS.
Now you can arrange the strips for the best appearance. Once you have a layout you like, mark the top so you can reassemble the strips in order. (I used a triangle mark as shown in the center drawing below.) GLUING UP SUBASSEMBLIES. The main drawing shows how I grouped the strips into subassemblies. The idea is to glue up each subassembly, then flatten and thickness them by running them through the planer.
How-To: Build the Laminated Benchtop Outfeed support Rip blade
a.
A large triangle allows you to reassemble the strips in order
3 !/8
END VIEW
Ripping. Rip the individual strips a little bit wide. This allows you to plane the glued-up sections to final width. 7
Grain Matching. Experiment with different color and grain patterns until you’re satisfied, then mark the final positions.
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Planing. After gluing up the sections, scrap off the glue squeezeout and run each section through the planer.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
If you plan to add the drawer cabinet on page 15, don't attach the benchtop to the base at this time NOTE:
29#/4 86 !/2
Finally, assemble them all to form the full-sized benchtop. All this contributes to an easy final assembly of just a few joints. I started by breaking the main part of the benchtop into three sections of four or five pieces each. (I left the outside piece off for now.) I also glued up another, shorter section for the tail vise. Before you get started, let me give you a piece of advice. When gluing up multiple segments, the key to success is to be thoroughly prepared. Dry assemblies, including laying out the clamps, help everything go according to plan. With your clamps and cauls in place, assemble each section with glue. After the glue dries, remove the squeezeout with a scraper and head over to the planer. DADOES. The next step is to rout the dadoes on the underside of each section. You can see how I did it in the drawings below. I started with the wider dado on the end of the outside section that holds the flange block for the tail vise. After that, you can glue up the main slab and rout the two dadoes on the main section to fit over cleats attached to the base. THE DOG HOLES. The tail vise will line up with a series of square dog holes in the benchtop. I routed the dog holes using a simple template and
H BENCHTOP
5 !/4 16 !/2
LEFT CLEAT K
22&/8 J
BENCH DOG SECTION
!/4" roundover
!/4"-dia.
hole
b.
TOP SECTION VIEW
1!/8
1!/2 Upper left rail
L RIGHT CLEAT
c.
(Top removed) Right back leg Back stretcher
2%/8 K
Back holes in cleats enlongated to allow top expansion
23#/4
#8 x 2!/2" Fh woodscrew
a.
24!/2
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
&/8
3!/4 Vise leg
16 #/8
!/2
1!/2
H
Dadoes in top fit over top of rails
1
&/8
Right upper rail
L
!/4
Upper rail
L
FRONT SECTION VIEW
TOP SECTION VIEW
(Top removed)
CLEATS. With the top complete, you pattern bit. For the details on this quick and easy template, turn to can turn your attention to the two Shop Notebook on page 20. cleats that help secure the top to the FINAL ASSEMBLY. For the final assem base. You don’t need to add glue in bly, simply spread glue on the edges the benchtop dadoes or on the tenof each section and clamp them all ons on the base. The cleats attach to together. I also used clamps with the rails and reinforce the joint. You cauls spanning the width of the can see the elongated screw holes assembly to help keep each joint in detail ‘b’ that allow the wood to aligned. After the glue dries, scrap move. After cutting the cleats to off the squeezeout and clean up the length, all you need to do is cut the top. Then you can cut the assembled rabbets and drill the screw holes. benchtop to final length. Then attach them to the rails.
Dadoes & Dog Holes Guide fence
Guide
Pattern bit H
J
Dog hole template
Flush at ends
a. a.
a.
For more on making this jig, see page 20 NOTE:
!/2"
straight bit 2
!/2 END VIEW
Wide Dado. Mark the location of the dado, then clamp a pair of guides to the underside of the top to rout the dado. 8
Strips are cut flush at ends
!/2"
straight bit
!/2
1
H
END VIEW
Narrow Dado. Use the same technique to rout the narrow dado that fits on the tongues on the end assemblies.
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Template SECTION VIEW
!!/16 J
Dog Holes. Once again, I relied on a template and a pattern bit to rout the recesses that will hold the bench dog. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1#/4 3!/2
a.
TAIL VISE TOP BLOCK
TAIL VISE N SIDE BLOCK
N
O
16 !/2
20
Dog holes spaced 5 #/4" center-tocenter
TAIL VISE FRONT BLOCK P
3!/2
%/8 %/8 %/8
FILLER Q STRIP
1!/4
#6 x #/4" Fh woodscrew
2%/8
1#/4 1!/4
4#/8
2%/8
12
M
%/8 %/8 %/8
2
1!/8"-dia. vise screw
1!/2" -dia. knurled knob
3!/8
3
7 !/2 2
1!/4
4!/2
S
#/8 U FLANGE
1!/8" -dia. through hole
4
1!/8" -dia. x 3"deep hole
2
10!/2
1#/4
4!/2
3!/2
1!/8" I.D. rubber O-ring
BLOCK
GUIDE RAIL END
!/2" -dia. hole through
!/2" x 16 !/2"- !/4"
Baltic birch plywood
4#/8 1!/4 18 #/4
#/4" -dia. x #/4"-
M
deep hole centered on end of dowel
3
TAIL VISE END BLOCK
T
GUIDE STRIP
#/8"-dia. x 4"
lag bolt with washer
b.
R
GUIDE RAIL SIDE
1!/8" -dia. x 12" hardwood dowel
END SECTION VIEW
Tail vise assembly attached through flange block into dado of benchtop %/8
2
N
O
Benchtop dado
#/4
U
2#/4
adding the TAIL VISE One of the features I was determined to include on this bench was a classic tail vise. This type of vise is very versatile, especially for hand-tool work. A tail vise can hold workpieces flat between a pair of bench dogs, and the opening in the vise jaws can be used to hold awkward shapes and long workpieces vertically.
2
T R
S
2!/2
10!/8
START WITH THE BASICS. The tail vise end
opposite direction from holes in the and side blocks define the shape and benchtop. I routed these using the size of the vise, so they’re the first same basic template, but reversed order of business. For the end block the angle of the slots. FINGER JOINTS. The vise body calls for I laminated 8/4 stock, then cut the block to final size and drilled the a tough joint. I chose to use a finger 11 ⁄ 8"-dia. hole for the vise screw. joint here because it offers so much glue surface. Turn to Shop Notebook DOG HOLES. The side block also houses three dog holes that point the on page 19 for more details.
How-To: Make the Flange Block 1#/4" Forstner bit
Aux. miter fence
B
#/4" dado
blade
U
2#/4
2
END VIEW
&/16
Drill. After the mounting holes are Dado. With an auxiliary fence on the miter drilled, install a Forstner bit and drill the gauge, nibble away the waste to create a large-diameter hole for the flange. square recess for the flange. WoodsmithPlans.com
Aux. miter fence
END VIEW
2#/4
#/8
Waste shown for NOTE: Drill through proper part orientation entire workpiece
9
U
a.
a.
10!/8
2!/2 Rip fence Dado blade
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2 #/8
Notch & Rabbet. First cut the notch for the guide rail, then flip the block over and cut the long rabbet on the opposite face. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
TOP BLOCK. The
next piece to add is the top block. It’s the piece that rides on a guide strip attached to the benchtop. After cutting it to size, I cut the long groove on the edge at the table saw with a dado blade (Figure 1). To keep the top block aligned with the end block during assem bly, I added a dowel. Just drill a hole in the top block, then use a dowel center to transfer the position to the end block (Figure 2). Now glue the top block in place. FRONT BLOCK. The front block houses the end of the vise screw. All you need to do here is drill the hole for the end of the screw. Glue it flush with the front edges of the side block and top block. Figure 3 shows how I added a filler strip to cover the dog holes. GUIDE RAIL. A guide rail assembly completes the moving portion of the vise. It’s simply an L-shaped bracket that fits on the underside. I used a bridle joint to connect the side and end pieces of the rail (Figures 4 and 5). Then, mark the location of the end and front blocks and cut the rabbets. After assembling the guide rail, attach it to the end block and the front block with screws (no glue), as shown in Figure 6. GUIDE STRIP. I made a guide strip for the vise out of Baltic birch plywood. After cutting it to size, just drill the countersunk screw holes as shown. Then, attach the guide strip to the bench using screws. VISE HANDLES. I made a pair of custom vise handles from 1 1 ⁄ 8"-dia. maple dowel. You’ll need to drill a 3 ⁄ 4"-dia hole in the ends of the dowel for the knobs. You can find out more about the knobs and other hardware that I used for the bench under the Sources on page 21. FLANGE BLOCK. The flange block holds the flange for the vise screw. The box on the previous page shows how to make the block. Install the flange with screws (Figure 7), then use lag screws to attach the block to the benchtop in the 2"-wide dado you cut earlier. 10
How-To: Build the Tail Vise 1
2
N O
Dowel center
O
a.
Rip fence
END VIEW
%/8
Top of top block flush with top edge of side block
M
!/2 !/4" dado
!/4
blade
Top Block. Cut the centered groove on the top block by making the first cut, then flipping the block for a second pass.
Dowel Hole. First drill a hole for the dowel in the top block. Then use a dowel center to transfer the hole location to the end block.
N
3
4
a.
END VIEW
!/4
R
O
M
2
P
Q Q
End of filler strip fits into inside corner of end and side blocks
Tall aux. fence
!/4
Sides of filler block and front block are glued to inside face of side block
Rip blade
Front Block & Filler Strip. In addition to housing the vise screw, the front block and filler strip cover the edges of the dog holes.
5
Aux. miter fence
Bridle Joint. Install a tall, auxiliary rip fence and use a push block to cut the groove in the end of the side guide rail.
6
Guide rail is just screwed in place (no glue)
NOTE:
M
#8 X 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
S
O
Rip fence Dado blade
a.
END VIEW
2
Q
!/4
R
N
!/2
!/4 S
P
2
Bridle Joint Tongue. Sneak up on a Attaching the Guide Rail. Predrill and snug-fitting tongue by slowly raising the countersink holes for #8 screws and then attach dado blade between passes. the guide rail to main body of the tail vise.
7
8
Flange fits in dado flush at top and bottom
Vise screw bracket attached with #8 x 1 !/2" Fh woodscews Flange
M
Vise screw P
U
#10 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew U FLANGE BLOCK
Attach Flange to Block. Carefully fit the flange into the recess and secure it in position with screws.
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Flange block screwed to underside of benchtop NOTE:
R
S
#/8" x 4" lag
screws with washers
Final Steps. All that remains is to add the vise screw bracket and handle before attaching the flange block to the bench. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
! /8"-thick leather
pad cut-to-f it
a.
3!/2
#10 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
1" radius 6
b. LEG VISE
Leather pad
Vise leg
V
V
6 2!/2
SIDE SECTION VIEW
1!/8"-dia. vise screw
8 &/8
Vise plate
1!/8"-dia. hole !/2 " radius
Flange #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
Flange bolt wit h screw s
!/2
1!/8"-dia. x 12" hardwood dow el
25 !/4
c.
Vise leg
Mortise for square nut
Vise leg
# /4"-10 x 13"
thread ed rod 1!/8" I .D. rubber o-ring
#/4
Knurled knob
Square Depth of nut washer
#/4"-10 x 3"
k nurled knob
1!/2"-dia. k nurled knob
hole
SIDE SECTION VIEW
1!/2"-dia. counterbore
#/4"-10 square nut
# /4"-10 c ap nut w ith washer
FRONT VIEW
installing the LEG VISE Up to this point, the traditional workbench bears a striking resem blance to a more modern design. That’s no surprise since the needs of a woodworker today are largely the same as they ever were. But the addition of the leg vise leaves no doubt that this is a departure from the modern world.
V
Cap nut SIDE SECTION VIEW
3
#/4"-dia.
1&/8
Threaded rod
The leg vise is really just a lever, with an adjustable pivot point at the bottom and a moveable jaw on top. Both rely on threaded steel rods. The combination provides plenty of holding power. In addition to the workbench's practicality, I also wanted to add a unique feature to make it stand apart
from other benches — a stippled pattern on the face. For this, I used a rotary tool, a few different bits, and a fair amount of patience. The Shop Tip on the next page has the details. VISE FACE. Once you’ve drilled the holes in the leg for the vise hardware, you can get to work on the vise face. After gluing up and cutting the blank to size, the next step is to drill the holes for the two vise screws and threaded rod. The How-To box below walks you through the process. You’ll also need to chisel out a square mortise for the nut in the lower hole.
How-To: Build the Leg Vise Back of leg vise #/4"
a.
Forstner bit
Chisel mortise to fit square nut Leg vise blank
Vise side profile layout line
Cut to waste side of layout line
SIDE SECTION VIEW
Vise back
Leg vise blank
Depth of square nut Drill holes through blank
NOTE:
Drilling. Use the holes in the vise leg to position the matching holes in the vise, then drill them out using a Forstner bit. 11
Hole for a Square Nut. The next step is to chisel out a square hole for the large nut on the back side of the vise.
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Inside Face. Cut the curves of the vise at the band saw. Start with the inside face, ending in a tight curve at the jaw.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
With that done, you can start shaping the vise. As you can see, it’s curved on the outside face, tapered on both sides, and recessed on the inside to create the protruding jaw. I did most of this work at the band saw. In order to make sure you have a flat surface to rest on the band saw table, you’ll need to make the cuts in the sequence shown below. I started by working on the inside face. With the piece on edge, all you need to do is make a straight cut, curving at the end near the jaw (right drawing at the bottom of the previous page). The box below shows the sequence and techniques for shaping the rest of the leg vise. Note that the area near the vise screw fitting stays flat. With the cuts completed, you can feather in the curves with a little sanding. After cutting the tapers, I glued a piece of leather to the jaw to protect workpieces held in the vise. STIPPLING. Stippling is simply adding a textured look to a field by carving dimples. It’s an easy thing to do, but adds an interesting detail to the vise. ROTARY TOOL. I used a rotary tool to do the carving. The great thing about these tools is the wide array of small bits available for this kind of work. I relied on just three ball mill bits to get the look shown in the photo at right. SHAPING.
Shop Tip: Stippling the Vise Use a veining bit to cut a shallow V-notch on field border layout line
#/4
#/4
Lay vise plate and washer in place to lay out border curves
#/4
Layout line
Border. It pays to experiment on a piece of scrap to get a feel for the veining bit. Then use it to carve the border. %/32"-dia.
ball bit
Start by making largest dimples randomly spaced
FRONT VIEW
Fill in space between previous dimples using !/8"-dia. ball bit
{ Stippling
Start Large. Begin in Go Small. Move to a corner with the large the smaller bit to fill in ( 5 ⁄ some of the spaces. 32"-dia.) bit first.
I started by defining the border with a veining bit. The top drawing in the Shop Tip shows how to do this. After completing the border, it was just a matter of creating the random textured pattern with the 1 ⁄ "-dia. and the 1 ⁄ "-dia. bit. 32 8 MOUNTING THE VISE. The final step is to attach the vise to the leg.
adds an interesting visual detail to the leg vise.
I began by attaching the flange for the vise screw into the back of the leg. It’s held in place with four screws. Next, mount the knurled knob in the lower hole of the leg. After that, it’s just a matter of threading the rods through and screwing the vise plate to the vise and the cap nut below.
Shaping the Leg Vise SECTION VIEW
Layout line 1!/2" Forstner bit NOTE: Sand surfaces smooth after cutting
Use double sided tape to attach spacer to inside face of vise
Outside. Cut the sweeping arcs of the outside face. Stop each cut at the flat spot surrounding the vise screw. 12
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Spacer holds workpiece level
Sides. Attach a spacer to the cutout area in the inside face to hold the workpiece level. This makes cutting out the sides a snap. WS20028
Counterbore to depth of washer thickness
Bottom Screw Hole. Use a Forstner bit to drill a shallow counterbore for the washer.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
!/4
a.
If building optional tool cabinet, install board jack after adding cabinet
NOTE:
3" radius 1
3
54!/2 10
&/8"
2!/4
radius &/8 FRONT VIEW
Board jack is made from #/4"-thick stock NOTE:
Soften edges
X
#6 x #/4" Fh woodscrews
BOARD JACK RAIL
21#/16 BOARD JACK W
#/4"-dia.
hole
4 W
Board jack peg
4
SIDE SECTION VIEW
c.
!/16 "
Bench top
X
roundover
#/8
Board jack peg is made from 1 !/8"-dia. hardwood dowel NOTE:
5 !/8 3!/8
b.
2!/2
2!/2
8 !/8"
chamfer
!/4
%/16
SIDE SECTION VIEW
Right front leg
#/8 W
adding the
Board jack peg
#/4"
!/8" roundover
dia.
BOARD JACK
To get the most out of your leg vise and bench, there’s one more thing to add — a board jack. It’s a very simple and traditional device used to support long workpieces held in the leg vise, usually for edge jointing. The board jack slides on rails, allowing you to position it to accom{ A handy spot to modate just about any store the board size workpiece. jack peg.
d.
W
#/8
W X
2!/2
#/4
After cutting the blank to size, you’ll need to cut a centered groove on both ends of the workpiece. These grooves fit over two rails on the bench. I installed a dado blade in the table saw and a tall auxiliary fence to the rip fence to support the blank. For more details, check out the box below. After drilling the holes for the peg, you can cut the board jack to shape at the band saw. Install the board jack by positioning it in the opening in the front of the bench. Then, attach
%/16
#/16
BODY.
SIDE SECTION VIEW
Front stretcher
the rails with screws. To make the board jack peg, refer to Shop Note book on page 20. After adding a couple coats of oil and a light coat of wax to the top of the bench, it’s ready to be put to work. But if you want to add some drawers and a shelf for handy storage, then check out the cabinet plans starting on page 15.
How-To: Make the Board Jack Tall aux. fence
Aux. fence
a. Board jack blank
END VIEW
#/4" Forstner bit
#/16
W
Cut to waste side of layout line
BOARD JACK
#/8
Board jack blank
%/16 !/4" dado
blade
Grooves. Cut the centered grooves with a dado blade by making the first pass slightly off center, then flipping the blank. 13
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Peg Holes. By staggering the position Final Shape. The decorative shape of the of the peg holes, you make sure the jack jack consists of just a few simple cuts on the can accommodate any size workpiece. band saw. Finish up with a little sanding. WS20028
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Materials & Supplies A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O
P Q R S T U V
31 ⁄ 2 x 31 ⁄ 2 - 311 ⁄ 2 31 ⁄ 2 x 6 - 311 ⁄ 2 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 41 ⁄ 2 - 26 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 9 - 26 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 4 - 58 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 7 - 59 3 ⁄ 4 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 3 - 551 ⁄ 2 3 x 241 ⁄ 2 - 861 ⁄ 2 3 x 31 ⁄ 2 - 70 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 3 - 70 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 1 - 227 ⁄ 8 1 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 1 - 23 ⁄ 4 31 ⁄ 2 x 4 3 ⁄ 8 - 101 ⁄ 2 1 3 ⁄ 4 x 4 3 ⁄ 8 - 20 13 ⁄ 4 x 31 ⁄ 2 - 161 ⁄ 2 ⁄ 8 x 31 ⁄ 2 - 41 ⁄ 2 25 3 x 25 - 12 ⁄ 8 ⁄ 8 3 ⁄ 4 x 2 - 18 3 ⁄ 4 3 x 2 - 71 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 1 ⁄ 2 - 161 ⁄ 2 2 x 2 3 ⁄ 4 - 101 ⁄ 8 31 ⁄ 2 x 6 - 251 ⁄ 4
Legs (3) Vise Leg (1) Upper Rails (2) Lower Rails (2) Back Stretcher (1) Center Stretcher (1) Front Stretcher (1) Main Bench Slab (1) Tail Vise Section(1) Bench Dog Section (1) Left Cleat (1) Right Cleat (1) Tail Vise End Block (1) Tail Vise Side Block (1) Tail Vise Top Block (1) Tail Vise Front Block (1) Tail Vise Filler Strip (1) Guide Rail Side (1) Guide Rail End (1) Guide Strip (1) Flange Block (1) Leg Vise (1)
W X •
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
3 x 8 - 21 3 Board Jack (1) ⁄ 4 ⁄ 16 1 x 3 - 541 Board Jack Rails (2) ⁄ 4 ⁄ 8 ⁄ 2 (1pc.) 12" x 12" Leather (1) 11 ⁄ 2" x 12" - 1 ⁄ 8"-Thick Aluminum Plate (6) 3 ⁄ 8"-dia. x 8" Carriage Bolts w/ Nuts & Washers (2) 11 ⁄ 8"-dia. Vise Screws (1) 3 ⁄ 4"-10 x 36" Threaded Rod (2) 3 ⁄ 8"-dia. x 36" Walnut Dowel (8) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews (14) #8 x 11 ⁄ 2" Fh Woodscrews (2) 3 ⁄ 8"-dia. x 4" Lag Screws w/ Washers (17) #6 x 3 ⁄ 4” Fh Woodscrews (8) #10 11 ⁄ 2” Fh Woodscrews (1) 11 ⁄ 8"-dia. x 36" Maple Dowel (4) 11 ⁄ 2"-dia. Knurled Knobs (4) 11 ⁄ 8"-Inside Diameter Rubber O-Rings (2) Square Bench Dogs (1) 3 ⁄ 4"-10 x 3" Knurled Knob (1) 3 ⁄ 4" Flat Washer (1) 3 ⁄ 4"-10 Cap Nut (1) 3 ⁄ 4"-10 Square Nut (1) 1 ⁄ 2"-dia. x 3" Hardwood Dowel
Cutting Diagram 1#/4" x 7 !/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.) A
A
A
A
A
A
1#/4" x 7 !/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.) P
C
B
B
P
1#/4" x 9!/4"- 96" Fir (12.3 Bd. Ft.) O
C D
D
M
M
N
1#/4" x 7 !/4"- 96" Fir (7 Boards @ 9.7 Bd. Ft. each) H H 1#/4"x 7 !/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.) H J 1#/4" x 7 !/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.) I I
V
1#/4" x 7 !/4"- 96" Fir (9.7 Bd. Ft.) E
Also Needed: !/2 "x 16 !/2"- !/4" plywood strip for part T
V
G 1#/4" x 9!/4"- 60" Fir (7.7 Bd. Ft.)
1#/4" x 7 !/4"- 60" Fir (6.1 Bd. Ft.) F
W
K R
U
L S
U
Q X
14
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WS20028
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Heirloom Project
workbench storage Cabinet & Shelf Get even more from your heirloom workbench by adding a cabinet that features a bank of drawers topped with a large, open shelf.
{ Drawer Cabinet.
You can’t beat handy storage. This set of drawers offers plenty of storage and versatility to keep your tools where you need them, within easy reach.
15
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
The Shaker-style workbench project will give you years of great service in the shop. This simple cabinet and shelf make the bench even more useful. The cabinet features five drawers: a deep drawer in the center flanked by a pair of shallow drawers on each side. You’ll also note that the cabinet only fills a portion of the opening beneath the bench and is topped by a shelf. This makes it easy to keep tools, hardware, and supplies close at hand when working at the bench — without cluttering up the benchtop. Just like the workbench, I built the cabinet with rocksolid joinery. The plywood case features tongue and dado construction. And it’s tough to make a stronger drawer joint than the locking rabbet. The drawer fronts and face frame of the cabinet are finished with an old-fashioned milk paint. This complements the heirloom quality of the workbench while providing an interesting contrast to its oil finish. It all comes together for a first-class shop fixture. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
NOTE: Attach
back after drawers are installed
A
CASE TOP
E
53!/2
building the CASE
54
BACK
B C
7
Construction of the cabinet starts with the plywood case. As you can see at right, it’s fairly straightforward. The case consists of top, bottom, and end and divider panels. A plywood back panel and edging complete the case. TOP & BOTTOM. A good place to begin is with the top and bottom. These identical panels need a tongue cut on each end to fit into dadoes you’ll cut later in the end panels (detail ‘b’). I formed the tongue by cutting a rabbet on each end at the table saw (left drawing below). Then cut two dadoes to house the divider panels, as shown in the center drawing below. END PANELS. Next up are the end panels. Each panel has a dado cut near the top and bottom edge to hold tongues in the top and bottom, as you can see in the right drawing below. The panels also need a rabbet on the back edge to hold the case back (detail ‘c’), so you can cut these now, too. ASSEMBLY. When the joinery is complete, you can dry assemble the parts and cut the two divider panels and the back panel to size. Then apply glue to all the joints of the case, except those that hold the back panel in place. It’s best to
11!/4 6
11!/4 A
15 !/4
C
CASE BOTTOM
11!/2
DIVIDER
7
D
EDGING
5 !/2 B
15 !/4
END PANEL
a. Case is made from #/4" plywood. Case back is !/4" plywood. Edging is !/4"-thick Douglas fir NOTE:
53
FRONT VIEW
#/4" ply.
7
!/4
#/4
b. !/4
c. A
!/4" ply.
#/8
A
!/2
B
D
FRONT VIEW B
TOP VIEW
!/4
keep the back open for easy access as you position and install the drawer runners later. With that in mind, you’re ready to glue up the case. You can set the back panel in place temporarily to help square it up. EDGING. With the case assembled, the edging that conceals its front edges comes next. To make the edging, plane a board to the same
thickness as the plywood case components, and rip strips to width on the table saw. At this point, it’s just a simple matter of adding the strips to the front of the cabinet. Work your away across the front of the cabinet, cutting the length of each strip to fit, and then gluing and clamping each one in place. And then you can move on to the drawers and shelf.
How-To: Simple Case Joinery A
Aux. rip fence
END VIEW
a.
a. END VIEW
A
#/4"ply.
A
Cut the first dado, then rotate the workpiece for the second cut
#/8
Rabbet the Ends. With the dado blade buried in an auxiliary rip fence, start by cutting rabbets on the top and bottom. 16
B
#/4" ply.
!/4
Dado blade is buried in aux. fence
END VIEW
a.
Size width of dado to fit tongue on mating piece
!/4
Dadoes. Cut the dadoes after installing a long auxiliary fence on the miter gauge to keep the workpieces square.
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B
!/4
Dado the Ends. Now cut a pair of dadoes in each of the end panels to fit over the tongues in the top and bottom.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
M
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
3
DRAWER STOPS
SMALL DRAWER SIDE F
2@!/32
5 !/2 G
14#/8 F
I J
L
LARGE DRAWER BACK
DRAWER RUNNER
11
H
LARGE DRAWER SIDE
20&/8
SMALL DRAWER BOTTOM
G
5 #/8
21#/8
K
14&/8
SMALL DRAWER FRONT
a.
TOP VIEW
LARGE DRAWER BOTTOM
I
!/8 F
#/4
11!/4
5 #/8
10#/4
b.
!/4
#/4
H G
Drawer fronts, backs, and sides are made from !/2"-thick hardwood. Drawer bottoms, stops, and runners are made from !/4"plywood NOTE:
!/4" ply.
J
LARGE DRAWER FRONT
!/2 SECTION VIEW
c.
!/4
add the DRAWERS & SHELF
!/16" shim
Add Runners. With the drawer on shims, slide the runner into place and mark its location. Then screw it in place.
Now that the case is complete, the a centered groove to fit over the drawers are the next order of busi- drawer runners. I cut this groove ness. Since the drawer fronts get before I assembled the drawer. painted, I used poplar for the front, This way, the front of the drawer back, and sides. The drawer bottom remains intact. You can use a chisel is made of plywood. to complete the groove through the drawer backs after assembly BUILD THE DRAWERS. The drawers are sized to create a 1 ⁄ 16" gap all around (right drawing below). when placed in the cabinet. They Your final steps for the drawers are joined with locking rabbets, are to cut the bottom to size and and the bottom fits in a groove. assemble the drawers. After cutting the parts to size, see DRAWER RUNNERS. The drawers are the How-To box below to make the used to position the runners in the locking rabbet joints. case, as shown in detail ‘c.’ Start by When the drawer joinery is cutting the runners to size and drillcomplete, cut the groove for the ing a countersunk hole near each bottom on the inside face of each end. Check the fit of the runner in workpiece, as shown in detail a drawer groove, and sand for a ‘b.’ The drawer sides also need smooth, sliding fit.
SECTION VIEW
#6 x #/4" Fh wood screw J
#/4
G
#/4
!/16 shim "
#/4
Use shims for spacing
Next, insert the drawers in the case. At the front and back, use shims to establish a 1 ⁄ 16" gap all around the drawers. Then insert the runners from the back (margin illustration at left). Measure and mark the location of the runners, and install them with screws. BACK & STOPS. With the runners in place, you can now glue and clamp the back to the case. The back seals the contents of the cabinet and holds the drawer stops.
How-To: Make Locking Rabbet Drawer Joinery Take light, paring cuts to remove waste
J
Tall aux. fence
Aux. miter gauge fence
G
!/4
!/4
!/4
DRAWER BACK
Aux. miter gauge fence
!/2 J
Groove. Install a tall auxiliary rip fence to cut a groove in each end of drawer fronts and backs. 17
G
Tongue. Use the miter gauge to cut the inside tongue to length to fit into the side.
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
!/4
F
I
Dado. Now cut a kerf dado at Side Groove. A chisel cuts a each end of the side pieces to clean notch to continue the side hold the tongues. groove through the back. ©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
NOTE: Add
cabinet and shelf before installing benchtop
Speaking of the drawer stops, there are four of them attached to the inside of the back, one each for the two sets of end drawers and two for the center drawer. The two stops on either end have countersunk holes drilled before they’re attached to the interior of the case. These holes are for screws used to attach the cabinet to the center stretcher on the workbench. Once the holes are drilled, apply glue to all the stops and hold them in place on the inside case back for about a minute until the glue sets up. FINISH UP. The back and the interior are now complete, so you can turn your attention to finishing the exterior of the cabinet. You’ll add paint and hardware in these final steps. For a finish, I used milk paint on the front of the drawers and cabinet. Then I installed the drawer pulls. Before installing the cabinet, you need to add four shelf cleats to the workbench to support the ends of the shelf. As you can see in the illustration and detail ‘b’ at right, these are just strips of wood that are cut to size and screwed to the lower rails at each end of the bench. Then you can attach the cabinet to the bench by driving screws through the stops at the back of the case to hold the cabinet to the center stretcher. Now slide the drawers into the cabinet.
O
58 #/4
SHELF
24!/8 54!/2 N
SHELF CLEAT P
SHELF EDGING
#/4
Cabinet removed for clarity NOTE:
1 10!/8 #/4
Shelf is #/4" plywood. Cleats are hardwood. Edging is Douglas fir NOTE:
a.
b.
TOP VIEW
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
SECTION VIEW
O O
2#/8
!/4 3#/8
N
Cleats align with top of center stretcher
&/8
P
SHELF. A
shelf on top of the bank of drawers makes a great place to keep tools close at hand. You can cut the shelf to size and then notch out the front corners with a jig saw to fit around the legs (detail ‘a’). The shelf gets an edging strip to conceal its front plywood edge.
Cut this strip to size and then glue and clamp it in place. Now lower the shelf in place from above so that it rests on the cleats. Secure the workbench top (page 7) and the board jack (page 13) to complete your new, greatlooking workbench.
Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram A B C D E F G H I J K
3
⁄ 4 ply. - 111 ⁄ 4 x 531 ⁄ 2 3 ply. - 111 x 7 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 2 3 ply. - 111 x 6 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 4 1 x 3 - 140 rgh. ⁄ 4 ⁄ 4 1 ply. - 7 x 54 ⁄ 4 1 x 221 - 11 ⁄ 2 ⁄ 32 1 x 221 7 ⁄ 2 ⁄ 32 - 14 ⁄ 8 1 ply. - 10 3 x 14 3 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 8 1 x 5 3 - 11 ⁄ 2 ⁄ 8 1 x 5 3 - 21 3 ⁄ 2 ⁄ 8 ⁄ 8 1 ply. - 10 3 x 207 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 8
Case Top/Bottom (2) End Panels (2) Divider Panels (2) Edging (1) Back (1) Small Drawer Sides (8) Small Drawer Fronts/Backs (8) Small Drawer Bottoms (4) Large Drawer Sides (2) Large Drawer Front/Back (2) Large Drawer Bottom (1)
!/2"x 5 !/2"- 96" Poplar (3.7 Sq. Ft.)
F F
F F
F F
F F
G G
18
I
I
J
WoodsmithPlans.com
WS20028
⁄ 4 ply. - 3 ⁄ 4 x 111 ⁄ 4 1 ply. - 3 x 51 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 2 3 x 1 - 101 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 8 3 ply. - 241 x 58 3 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 8 ⁄ 4 1 x 3 - 541 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 4 ⁄ 2
#/4" x 3"- 72" Poplar (1.5 Bd. Ft.)
G G
J
1
• (20) #6 x 3 ⁄ 4" Fh Woodscrews • (8) #8 x 11 ⁄ 2" Fh Woodscrews • (5) Drawer Pulls w/Screws
G G
!/2"x 5 !/2"- 96" Poplar (3.7 Sq. Ft.)
G G
Drawer Runners (10) M Drawer Stops (4) N Shelf Cleats (4) O Shelf (1) P Shelf Edging (1) L
N D ALSO NEEDED: One 48"x 96" Sheet of !/4" Birch Plywood, One 48"x 96" Sheet of #/4" Birch Plywood NOTE:
Part P is cut from Douglas fir
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Cutting Long Finger Joints Cutting the finger joints in the lay out the notches on the tail vise end block for the Shak- side block (Figure 1). Then, er-style workbench is a simple in order to get a deeper cut, task with a dado blade installed I swapped out my dado on the table saw. blade for a standard rip But when it came to cutting blade and cut each notch by the finger joints in the mating making a series of passes, as side block, I couldn’t use the shown in Figure 2. Even with a 10"-dia. same technique. The finger joints 1 on the side block are 3 ⁄ 2" long blade though, I couldn’t — too long to cut with an 8"-dia. cut the notches to their full dado blade. So I had to come up depth. So the remaining waste with another method. needs to be removed by hand. I started by using the fingers This is simply a matter of cutalready cut on the end block to ting along the sides of each notch
1
2
with a hand saw, as shown in the photo above. (I used a Japanesestyle rip saw.) Then the remaining waste can be removed with a chisel (Figure 3).
3 Take multiple passes to remove waste between fingers
Tall aux. fence
Rip blade
Use fingers cut on end block to lay out fingers on side block
Pare away remaining waste with chisel
Making Draw Bolt Plates 1!/2 %/8 %/8"
rad .
5 #/4
The end assemblies of the work bench base are tied together with a stretcher. They’re connected with carriage bolts and nuts. A pair of shop-made plates are used with the carriage bolts. These serve two purposes — they add a decorative element but also act as washers for the bolts.
To make the plates, I started by laying out the profile on a piece of 1 ⁄ 8"-thick aluminum bar stock. Using a hack saw to remove the bulk of the waste, I roughed out the rounded profile at each end. Then you can use files to refine the profile and create the chamfers on the edges, as in Figure 2.
To create the square holes for the carriage bolts, start by drilling a 3 ⁄ 8"-dia. hole near each end of the plate. Then with a small triangular file, you can square up the holes to hold the carriage bolts (Figure 3). The last step is to paint the plates and carriage bolts using a black spray paint.
#/32"
chamfer
1
Hack saw 4!/2
%/8
2
3 File profile edges smooth
Square up hole with file
#/8 #/8 !/8
&/16
NOTE: Enlarge pattern 200%
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©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Making Round Tenons To create the round tenon on the end of the board jack peg for the Shaker-style workbench, I used a clever router table technique. SETUP. As you can see in the drawing at right, the diameter of the tenon is determined by the height of the router bit. An auxiliary fence covers the opening in the router table fence and acts as a stop to control the length of the tenon. And a support block clamped to the top of the router table helps to control the workpiece. To establish the shoulder of the tenon, hold the dowel used for the peg against the support block and slowly push it into the bit until the end contacts the fence. Then rotate the dowel clockwise to cut the shoulder of the tenon. The rest of the waste can be nibbled away by moving the workpiece back and forth over the bit until the tenon is complete.
Backer board keeps dowel centered over bit
Aux. fence
Dowel is rotated over !/2" straight bit to create rabbet
a. Auxiliary fence and backer board are secured with clamps
END VIEW
Auxiliary fence
#/4
#/16
Template is made from #/4" plywood. Notched Cleat bottoms are !/4" hardboard guide
!/2" straight bit
NOTE:
#8 x 1 !/4" Fh woodscrew holds template secure to dog rail
2!/2 @%/32
Cleats 9!/2
Cleat bottom
Dog rail
1!/32
Guide
2!/2 Cleat bottom 9!/2
a. Guide
Notched Cleat guide
b.
END SECTION VIEW
Hold-down screw
!/4
Guide Dog rail edge 95°
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TOP VIEW
Cleat
!#/16
Cleat
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Dog rail Cleat bottom
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Routing Dog Holes Armed with a template, a mortising bit, and a router, creating consistent dog holes for the workbench is a snap. The template straddles the workpiece and is held in place with a screw. The bearing of the mortising bit rides against an opening in the template to create a perfectly shaped dog hole. As you can see in the drawing at left, the template consists of two guides attached to a pair of cleats at a 5° angle. One of the guides is notched to create the recess for the head of the bench dog. To use the template, simply position it on the workpiece and secure it with a screw. Note: The dog holes in the tail vise side block face in the opposite direction of the dog holes in the top of the bench. So to rout the tail vise dog holes, you’ll have to remove the guides from the cleats and flip them over. Then reposition the cleats to straddle the wider side block.
©2012 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
MAIL ORDER SOURCES Woodsmith Store 800-444-7527 Lee Valley 800-871-8158 leevalley.com McMaster-Carr 630-600-3600 mcmaster.com Rockler 800-279-4441 rockler.com
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Project Sources The Shaker-style workbench requires some hardware, including tail vise screws (70G01.52) and bench dogs (05G02.01), both of which can be found at Lee Valley . You’ll also need a 3" knurled knob (6121K132), a 3 ⁄ 4"-10 acorn nut (91875A190), and 11 ⁄ 2" knurled knobs (6121K25). All of these were purchased from McMaster-Carr . The workbench was finished with two coats of General Finishes Seal- A-Cell wiping varnish. Paste wax was also applied to the benchtop. For the storage cabinet in the workbench, you’ll need cast Victorian pulls (02W26.32) from Lee Valley , and blue milk paint (39130) which is available at Rockler .
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