N().76
·Oa~ • Four ue Picture Frames
•
•
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.95
No, 76
EDITOR'S
C{.)LUMN
Sawdust Editor Donald 13, ,)<,<.lIke Ot"QInlJi_Qr To; Jam .. M, Dolan Riclt,U'd S. p"",,,,
G(,rdon Gnippe Proje('tJ)~nl'r Ken :'lunkel lUu~lrnlo"" Da\-id Kr
SubscriJ)
~l·\\~l.J1ldSak... Ke.nlA. Buckren Shop\l:1nllJ!t'l' su_,,~t;urti!. WOODS~flTlJ CALUOG
Mark .. lnn rn",clot
Ruben Mun'),
Grophic> Oin,"
UndaJones \\tun:lu,uS(' JefT) CnnlOn. Sup", GIo';" Sh""I!.'l1l Ronald Long [)"vid 51011r
CustorucrScnit:1:
MW
l..inda :\1of'l"OlA CU~1:0nlCrScr\!h:cJCflni~ F.nO$ (j('n~U~ Branson
~Iic Smith Roberta Ru~h
"Yeah, bUIyou nl",d ~ 1010(1001, HIbuild Not rt!aUy. 'lbt: Jlliije,rity tll "-Iln.: l:,.(lon\~ willljusI3table sa" and a roU1.r, 0(,,,,,1"<', woodworkers arc kl1owl1lor in\'t',"inll «>asons 10 add 100Jis10 their sh~p", And a proi<'clJik~Ihisonf' ,'ould glve)'ou ,I lUI01 good
BuiJdin~~~alnrt
\tt"hi~ Krause
STORE MANAGERS
KwllVeh
&.rIu:~,('A \1..."""1Ocna",,"
2
lelill t,...() \Ica"'e~and (t(lc.I.t dc",r i,t ...t.'dCf In Uli!O:one ~lnaJl projl"Cl you l,a\lt' ;dllh{· basics of (abjn(~lmaking. By Iht- l1JI1(' y,nl \\'C,'O;' done. }'uu'd have h,'arntod.t Itll
Lori Seib<:rt
J O1J)'t\ l~ro~'S
1(,rt,lbl, .
I"'"
a projecllik ...that.·
SQun:dJook Jean ~1)'ets .. \dnlini..u'i,li~'c~ 01("1')'1 ..\. Sc<.u
t., hUII,i:)
~lc..,1 \\'utl a round seal ihJt'~ ,lllIhll) ""0<,,,,.1 111111.make it com\'1'" W.dll
I used to think thaI Ih(' best advic.. was rhal'\o4, ~11111Itt·.'1fIUIII;l blank on the lathe, the prMti. 'aJ approach, start wi th • "'W .1Tla1l turn it rf"llul.Ar'tl thvn turn a r«tOSS in the proje....1Sto get the hang 01 the basics.Tlu n ",',It JII" like turninuu very 'hallnw bowl. work up to Ia.rger p",.jecl$. lint what if >"uu elfin', have-a 1atJle? RUI lhal mighl not be much fun, ..spe()kQ:),. if Y(IU J1R\'l' a 'C'lllt.·r,) au can make ciaDy if you start with n small pm)'....1 Y'''' aji~ 11\31 rou'", 0,11 th.· same .JlalIuw recess, don't like jUllot to learn a basic Il,\-1111iq\It.· 11" )IgI, ""'ph'lu build, and works great, \Vhy not start out wilh a project YI>U'(" (~ot' p.aJ.!t 22 ) really interested in - no mauer how bl~ or '1'\\ I havc u tradition ofimrcduchow complicated it is? SUT<.·Y')U nlighl J:t·t 111 111J.: II"W IlC"(llil, wIle, \\ crk I,t."n."so you getan over your head, bUIyou'd leam an awful luI '~I',Ihi .. hu all rolltribUI," 1011'00000"mili., in the process of tligging your way out. I 'Ilr..rtlln"ld~, I "Ollll'leldy (orgolto menBUIback 10 the original question. Wh,lI', h(1I1 !'t("\'c'l urti ....uur ~C)Pmallager . a R()Od prujf:Ct to start out tIn? ()n4 IXI~."·"l ~t V" ,,,'Iuall) ,;I"rkd ..orking with us bililY i, lit .. Night Stand featured on the abtJ\lt Iive ye,I'''' tI$:u ..., II,.: \"oodsmiU. (CW('r of this issue. You weuld k-arn men~I'rl: '1111"1 nbe)lIl .1 vear~('. y.'e decided woodworking tC\~I'niqut"Swith thi ...(Int' til ct- 1}1,,' we JIC"\-di .. Ifllflll" help in our shop here jcci than almost any other I can think ul. .It 111': 111"J.!.l/lllt'·" IjlI1,·(,·... - sonleone to To build it, you have 10 l(lu.' up " ",lid m,u.'gc IIIl' ,hup, and build some o(th"prowood lop, make frame and panel ,i,ll'S, "",I .it'" I~ Alttl proto.ypc·s (()r prfJj(,_,\·t~St~"e also build dovet.nt.>d draw(,'r$. By .. han,(inl: ,h,' hI 1J)' th,,' l"llll(iN ~Jld1t.·· ....hnIC:11 iUu$lrdlOrs de,ign slighOy,yourould ...limi,,,,,'llw bu., «".nlinat" Ih," ("n~ a, Ih,') build th('
Jo)' Jol\ll ... n
CQRPORATE SERVICES C..OI... lIcr Paul E, CnI.)' Ilookk.. "iIlB Un"" O'!luuri
0,,,, Moin<,,1A
H
ere's a $!ood question. -I want tt' Rt'l started in woodworking. bUll dun'l knowwhauo build, Have any""l!ltc«iun'?·
projl'\l ...(or
l'dt"l, j
~.u:. fJut tnost inlportanl.
SoI"lll·tiJn(~slit: l(·t·~ 11\(-bt'tll him at golL N~'\\ F.\Cf';;,:>I"w befo,," IfO'll,,'_1
"o~~
;_\1..;,r_111a\'t.·1~1 Illt.'nLitln
$t'\lt:rJl
otll~r
n("\\'
ad-
dili"n< Ihal are part of our l"'~r-growing mail ord('r caw.log dhi,;jon.
r-1tS1. Robb Joturr), hasjoin{'d us 10 h('ad up Ihi< group as marketing dirl'Clor_Robb h,$ had a lot of experience ill!he woodwork, ing field, (Hc last worked (or RBJ, a manut~clurer o( >emil saw~and plauen;,) Robb rra.~ns. will help us organize and expand our mail But somctimt."S tht'1'l"'S fun in delemlillorder"",,"c'e_llis main responsibilities are illl( how 10 g~l the jI.b done wilh Ihe tools to SCICCl produ~ls and project supplies for you have al hand_ For~xampl(,',I() glu ...lh... thl' catalog, {Mosl of his ,w.rk w.11be se<'n boanl. (or the (01) of O.e NiJ:11I SI311d It)' in Ihe nexl catalog, 111wail I~ talk aboul it g,'ther cdg<"-ItH-dge, you mighl lhink you b«3u~ we have some nev.'(eatur(,.~in stort (or the calalog,) nerd ajoinl"" 10jointlh" edl!6, To take your ord~~ mId hell) wilh all)' Bul ma)'be nol You could accnmplio'Ue, offices~she'$ our ne~'receptionist. ThCrt' are lim('$ when you need the righl All in all,tha.'sa 101of growth for our mail 1001 (ur tllC job, Bul Ihere are abo time:; order group, when th"IOt.I.al hand can gollhe job dun~, XF.XT ISSUE, The nexl issue of SIlO~ STOOL.AnothH' good example o( \I'""dJ<"tili< will hi' mailed during Ihe la" Ihis is the ShOI) SIOOIill Ihis issuc,l..cI's say w~k ofSePI"mb~r. 1991.
No, 76
•
A
•
LOOK
INSIDE
Contents Useful lips [ellou: ITips & Techniques I [±1 tcorkers: 1) Ea
11100d-
,}10ltllting.
2)
Checking 0 Miter Gauge .. 1) CIOIIIP Cradles. 4) Picture F'I'(UM Splines. 5) Rouier Table.Hold-Dowu.PI us Qa ick Tips.
I Cherry Night Stand I~
This with heirloont alongside
11121 We show sel"elu/ ll'
I Shop Notes
111611)
Shop Stool
pag!' c
classic cherry cnbillet is built traditional joinery. It'» 071 projett (hat looks as good a sOfela.~it does nect (0 a bed.
IDesk Picture Frames
•I
Cherry Niqh! Stand
(I
sililplefrrt me with decorative strips 0/ wood.Thecorllersa l'6joinediJ!!stubtenons I hatfit iuta the &:1 Ill!' gIOOI'e!! a.~thepicture. Drill PI'f!-~1IAng/e Gauge. .t) Drill rlngled Pial/ann. .3) ROlltillg Inside Chamfers. 4) Trimminq Through Te)/all.~. Press
I liSI Tlte legs/or lit i,~ oak stool are dowels wedged ;)/to roul/d nlorlises. A scooped seat mckee it comfortable i1lthe shop orjust (Lbout(til ywhere else.
ISeat Scooping Jig
11221 A s/top-moc{ep/Y'lVoodjighelps
1 Wedged Tenons
11241 A til rf)ngh tenon is st ronqer uhe» «
ITalking Shop
11261 Howlouuoidg/ue-joillf/ailure,alld
IEdge Jointing Basics
11281 Goodedqejoints sluuethreecharac-
•I
Sources
No. 76
PI'O'
duce « /llii/orllllu,colltolll'ecl seat /01' the Shop Stool-or an!! chair seat. wedge locks it ill/he mortise. It's all attractive joint, too. especially i/ the ICedgeis madefrom a tOlltlYlslillg wood.
what to une fora thin toble saui ill' seri. Also, ichat» the difference betlCUIl reaction lVood and case hardening? teristics: lite edges arp .~t.raight. smooth; and square 10thefuce. WeshOll! the tools c(?ldtechniques to aehiece them:
11311 Hardware :
and project supplies needed/or the p''Ojects ill this issue. WoclI.bml(h
Wedged Round: Tenons
pagel!,
3
FRO
M
FELLOW
WOODWORKERS
Tips & Tee
•
•
ques
I
EASY VISE MOUNTING • Bench vises are heaY) 10 lift N'01o\ ju.t lift the 21<4up and and awl..-ward to move around. balancethe viseagainstthefrnnt So installing ene can be a real edge of the bench. see ~ig. 1. chore. I used to dlsassembl« the Then mark the positiOn for the
J
vise orelse tip the bcn.l1 on
I found an easier way Iusca pieceo( scrap 21<4300u1 36" long• see ~Ig. I. On the 21<4 mark the distance frornthe floor to the bottom of the bench lop Oessabout W'). Then damp the 2x4 in tbe vise with Ow vise mounting bracket lined up 10 this mark
Mer drilling pilot holes. raise the 2x'l ag;tjn to hold the vise as you drive in the screws. If you use 1~'O2x I 'Scraps. damped in the vise rather than
cne.thevise willalmost stand up by il5clr. 1\'«/1 Ro:•• Sa" 1,,,:.Obi.,,,J. ('a/((orllin
CHECKING A MITER GAUGE • Gcltinglllt miter gauge on my square 10 see if Ihe go' corner is table saw adjusted $(I the saw accurate, see J~g4lao cutsexactly IS' is tricky. Bill I've IILhealll(l~isexactly9() .theu Cound an ea~)'WlJ)' iu check it you can be sure the miter gauge with a scrap piece of21<4. issei so the saw willcut a perfect First, set the miter gauge 10 ·15' anglc. 45 . Now CUIoff one end of Ih~ But if the angle is less than 2x4 and discard thai piece. Next, 90 • set your miter gaugt' 10 flip the 21<4ov"r and make a sec- slightly mon' than 45' and make ond cut, crl'aling a triangular another lest cut, 11th~ angle is cul~rr piece. <1,,, ~11(.1. grealer than 9(1 . sel YUllr miter Then use this cut-off piece 10 gauge 10 slightly I"". than 45' sec how accuralely the miter and try again.
r;li1--;.... :;:;-;MIltlI;:;;;;;;o~ .. uo;;;;;,:;TOo--:;:::===;;;:;:::;;:====:::l .., AND CUf11UAHOU
Q.
(HECK 90' ANGlf WITH Tl,Y.sQUAD
I
gaulle is set Butdon't check lite 45' comers. Instead. use a try
CLAMP CRADLES .It·s hard 10 keep pipe damps
nlil----------7.~==;;~~~;;==~ a.
the same diameter as thl' oul side diameter of the pipe. :'\ext. stock lor lodge-gluing. To solve cut the block in half through the the problem.! made a set of rub- hole. making two cradles about bet-lined cradles, They hold the 1'1'," high. "''' F"tg. I. clamps finnly in position. Then. 10 k..ep the pipe from The cradles have Ilip added rollingin the cradle. glue a piece benefit of raising the damps of rubber inner tube (or sandhigh enough that the handles paper) into the cradle. The pipe clear the beachtop as they're will rest on the top edges or the turned 10 tighlen the damps. rubber liner. see Fig. ra. To make a palrof cradles. start To keep the cradle from railby ripping a piece of scrap 21<4La ing over. I glue it to • 3" square 11-2'wide and 3\.2" long, Now piece of 114" plywood. bore a hole centered in one side Fred 11. l·u7Id",.hoo! of the block. The hole should be 11«"Ib« ,g. :Vf!lJ1 l·,),·~· from rolling while adjusting
4
GlUt aO.Bat UN!. IHTO CIWIU
, \
• fOP nx;&OF~ RUB&EIIUNlit '\
/
,," ",YWOOD
No. 76
I
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QUICK TIPS SAFI. ~NC L HOLDIR .UNGG.'"I • • Sometimes Ineed a sli~free • \\'ht-o I'd lean over a project
PICTURE FRAME SPLINES .1 recently made a number 01 picture frames 3~gifts. But brads and other Iasteners that hold the picture in the frame are hard to remove when you want to change the picture.
So in-
stead. 1 used splines set into lInJOvesjust behind the backing board in the frame, see fig. la, The splines are W -thick and
:¥a"·wide. They fit snugly into grooves cut into all four frame piece>. see Fig. I. Just remem ber to cut the
groove for the spline 00(011: cutting the rabbet in the back of the frame. (lfyoucut therabbet first, you won't have a wide surface to ride on the saw table when you cut the groove.) Once in the groove, the splines bull ag'~inst each other, so there's no need lor glue or brads.To change the picture, use a knife puint 10 gently work the spline. out of tile grooves. Bob jlfar/()I('fI
Akrcm.Olrio a,
-SACKINO IOARD
I
GlASS
"
SPUNE
grip 00 a piece of round stock. with my shop apron on. the penlike when I insert a round chair cil in the apron pocket would fall rung into a hole. Outor poke n,~ in !be neck. So 1 use one of those small To eliminate this. my wife repend! pocket sheets of rubber designed to moved tt>,;> v~I1i<.",. Pen 'UI.yll/~nia • When du",.. ling. it's onen dilticultto get just tile right amount SIND IN YOUR nps oj 1,(1"" into the dowel notes, To get around this problem.I use a lfyou would like to share a double-headed (duplex) nail to tip or idea, jllst send it to II'ood6111ilh,lips and Tech3wh' glue in the holes. when dipPed io the glue, the niques. 2200 Grand Ave.. double head retains just the Des Moines.Iowa 50312. \V<, will pay (upon publica,ight amount of glue between tinn) $15 to $100. depending wlwobeads. on the published length of A 8d nail is pt!r!cct for V4" do..... ets, It's fast. easy, and it the up. PIe..,,., include an exdoesn't make n mess. planation and" photo or sketch (wclldrdw anewone), Do", 711Q'I"P.W)1
• Lj~'~jl,..::::::::::::::=-~~~~==~~;~===~J ,~~~--------~ "'--CUT
GROOvt eescee ItAaBfT
Th~ Rii~S,ClIhfon,in
ROUTER TABLE HOLD·DOWN • I needed a way to keep a workpiece down ligl\t against my router table. So I made a hold-
down {rom a piece of scrap oak that workslike the leal spring on ncar. sc·,·fig. 1. To mak e a hold-down like this. start with a piece of ~J"·thid, hardwood.aboet 3 wide-and 12" t1
1
NOl.76
thick spacer between tile workpiece and the strip, see Step 2. Then 10 make the strip bow OUI in the middle. bond it nv,·,. the spaccrasyou glue and damp
Step 1 in Ag.2. :-low llIue orsctew the stril) to or SCfE:v.- uin place. To use the hold-down, clamp the edges of the "'orkpi('c<' \\ here tbe wedges were re- it to therouter table fence so that moved. To do this. 61'S1put a .... /'. the workpiece is held firmly to
2
~HQU)OOWN TO ffN
-
•
long. r\l)IJo,' rip a VI6"·widi! strip off one long ~dge. Next, cut wedge-shaped pieces of( the corners of the uther edgv, sec
the table. see F'i~.t. The workpiece should move frl"t'ly
8..-;
it's
passed under tllt hold-down. V()U can also USl' this hukldown on th.· t.blt· saw. To do thi s. damp it to tlw rip tencc o(
the saw Brue» Gralunn Jlr ilum t'(lit'. }\nl'S('S
RtP l,,-·tHIO( sntlP Off EDGE Of WORKPIECE.
.~ 5l1UP OIRKlS SPAINO T£NSlON ON WORKPtf:Cf
GWEOft $1alP
$("-(W
STEP 1
STEP 2
ON !).IDS
5
HEIRLOOM
PROJECT
•
Cherry Night Stand When you set out to build a classically st),led cabinet, it seems only natural to use classic joinery ... dovetailed drawers, frame and panel sides, and raised panel drawer fronts.
• A
s I was "urkilll! on Ih;s Nighl Stand and il was is a frame-and-panel unit, nol just a piece ()( plywood ilellinning to take shape, " Iew people wandered screwed 10the back of lite case. into the shop 10check Ih,· progress. TIley all had the JOINERY.Allbough most of lite JOInery of the cabinet same Initialcomment, "1l's sn small," i,vt'ry traditional, weehose a slightly unusual approach BUIil deceiving. 1'111 il along forjoiningthe drawerrails (that support and separate the ,ide a bed or sofa chair. and il takes on .n 1I1~proper drawers) (0 thesldesofthecablnet, Typically.theserails pruporuons, Anrl, il~ seale trom a creative standpoint is art' joined 10 the cabinet sid~,with mortise and tenon nn diifcrenllhan the challenges offerl-d by a full-sized join". However, we designed the ralls so Ihey could be dresser. (\\'hicll means it'sa great \\'ay to lest your skills. mounted with a tongue and dado arrangement -the same Joint used 10 auach lite facing strips 10 lite front of without u,io)l a 101orlumber.) ~()MPASIO:> PIECE. This Nigbl Stand is designed 10 the mill. (refeno Figs. 6and i). complement IWO earlier lI'OOd81/1I1" projects - the 'IATORlAlS.We chose black cherry forthisprojetlCherry Dresser (l1'ood$1,,;l" No. 58) and the Ungerie includingcherry pl)'Wood panels forthe fram e-and-panel Dresser (:-0:0. 53). UYOIIwere tostretch some of'its parts. side s, The drawer sides are made of poplar. whkh adds you'd end up with one otthose project, (almo,I). a niceconrrasi forthedovetailson the drawerfronts, The Fl>\CK I)SSU;;<.The ~nly major design change we've ctnl~'significant hardware needed isthree brass-and-permade (or lit" "'i)lhl Stand is its finished back. The bock celain drawer pulls (rcfer to Sources. pagp 31).
6
• No. 76
•
MATERIALS
EXPLODED VIEW OVERAll DIMENSIONS:
-------J(
2O"W x 22'~·H " '6"0 ::
•
SIDES --@
.~
TOP
cow
A RoiIs(4) B Sliles(4)
:Yo X2 - 10'\'.
C Panels (2)- Ply
V.x1~·lS'~
¥.x 1">-1~
BACK
MOl.DING
'¥4 x 2 - 14'1. -'V. x 2· 18'\t '4 ~1~·15'h
011011$(2) E Stfles(2) F Pone! (1) - PlV
~£
r RAiL
TOPF~
fRONT 0/, • 1V, 1~
G Ftonl Sllle!(2)
®-
¥. x 1It.!- 16\(0 I Top/Bol.Fo<;:ings(2) ~.x 1"'" . 15". J Middle Facings (2) 0/. - 151>'. H RoIIs(4)
DRAWER
FRONT
~4'
ORAWfR GUIDES/RUNNERS ¥. x I It.!-9¥4(Rgh) ~x 1J?-I~V.(Rgh)
K rl\Jnne($(6)
L GuIdes(6) ~
SIDE STILE
BASE M Fromefr./Bock(2) '1'•• 1!~-2O N frome SIde$(2) 0/. x 1',.- 16 o KJckboold Ff.tllle. (2) '1'. x 2'I1l- 191t.! P KlCkbooId SIdE>s(2) ~. x
m - 151~
TOP & TRIM '1'•• 16·20 ~x~-22(Rgh)
QTopCl) R CoveMoldlng(S)
TOP DRAWER 5 Front (1)
•
T Sock(1} U Sldes(2)
0/. )< 3'.'.1' 15'/. \?x3'1l 15'/. ,,>.3'J.r 12V.
V BoNom(l)-PIy
"•• 12'1'\6- ld7/16
BOnOM/MIODU
DRAWfRS ¥4x51/4 -15"_
~
WFronts(2)
MOLDING
X Bocks(2) y Sldes(4)
I'lx 5'/0' 15'/.
Z Bottom(2)-PIy
V. X12!n. 14~.
cove
SUPPLIES
FRAME
SIDE
..,___r.,
• Drower BoilPulls (3) • DrowerTlXnburtons(3) • Nylon GlIde Slops (6)
KlCKBOARO
SIDE
CUnlNG
PLYWOOD
DIAGRAM
'."Pl'tWOOO
La r
E_
iT
8r
~~. x 6"- 9t.· (4 lid.. ft.)
I
0
=[
,as: ..
.,~ 5V. - 12V.
o T
a
R
o
A
FI
o
..... x.4t"
;11.1
w
v
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No. 76
Wood;tnith
7
CASE GROO\'E:FOR P.""ElS. \V11enall the rails
The nighl .t;and is a
and stiles for the case framl.osare cut 10size, frame-and-pMel units: groovesarc CUton the inside edgestoaccept the panels. Cut these grooves wide enough two side units joined to a back unluhar, to- to accept the plywood panels. I-'l' deep, and gether, form 8 -\1- centered on the thickness or the frame shaped- assembly. pit-res. see Fig. I. ACTO~Sthe front of ShOP '1ote:Thcpanel'lin' made (rom \t4'" thick pl}'Wood.Burmost bardwoed plywood '-------' thecase arefour rails ...ith auached fueing strips which define the actually measun'Sies.thao II,' thick. So cut the grooves just wide enough 10accept the upening;; for three drawers. a(/1
'low cut th« panels (C, f) til size. allowing 'lt6" clearance all around so th~ panels will 61inside lhe frames, see F'(g. I. ,\SSE'lBtE FlUMES. Next. the (rames can be assembkd around the plywood panels. To do this, fil'l'lghl('lhe rails onto the panels. Then glue 011 the stiles. As you clamp each assembly together (across the joints) keep the assemblysquare and full. R.~IIErs.To keep the back and side frames in alignment during assembly of the cabinet, a shallow rabbet is cui on the inside faceofboth back stiles. S('(Ifig. 2. I cuuhese rabbets on the table sa w using. dado blade with an auxiliary fence. see rig. 3.
I b<>gan work on the eablnet by making the
stub tenonson the ends ofall six rails. These
frame-and-panelunits forthe sidesand back. Each unit consistsof a tOJ>and bonom (bori· 7.ontal) rail and two (vertical) .till'S thai surround a plywood panel RAIlS & ~'1lU:S,Stan by ripping (our side rails (A) and two back rails (0) to width and length (rom :V,··thickstock. see Fig. l. Next. rip (our side stiles (B) and two back stiles (E) (0 fmishE'dwidLlt.see Fig. 1.Th4.'O cui all six stiles to the same length (IAA\;',),
The length o( the tenons matches the Jom SU>ES&- I!.~CK..When rabbets have depth o( the grooves (Vi'). The tenons are been cut on the back stiles, lhe case sides centered on the thickness of the rails. and and back are read)' lO be assembled into a the thickness matches the widt It of the -U- shape, refer 10 Fig. 5 on the (acing page, grooves. see Fig. 2. To do this. first spread glue alcng therabP,'""ELS.\\C,thgrooves and tenons COL on bets in the back stiles. Now position the side all of the frame pieces. dry-assemble the frames into the rabbets, then damp across back frame. and also one side frame, to take the back. Note: Check the inside comers (or measurements (or the plywood panels, square aner attaching the clamps.
SIDE FRAME (MAK'lWOI
1
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",," \
t--. ....
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RAIL,;'
®SIDE
STU.E
1----,.....
FRONT
J..-
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".--1 :
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tenons fit into the grooves in the stiles.
,.... ~.
e
©
........
PANfl
PANEL
-t-
@ STllE /
2
BACK CORNER
4
FRONT CORNER
UI' AlUlI IA(K FlAM( 1$
(UT" ....
rnu
®, BACK ItAlI.
•
SID<
mLf
~~r-~' ~M~D
~
fRONT
STIll
I
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8
•
No. 76
•
•
F.ONTSTIUS The (ronl 01 the case is made up 01 a pair oi vertical stiles glued 10 the front of the side frames. see r&g. 5. Then. rails and facing strips are added. refer to Fig. 7. Stan by ripping the front stiles (G) 10 width.then cuIling them 10 the same length as the side frame. refer to Fig. 1. O.o\JlOES.Next. toacceptthe tromrads, cut V." x-V." dadoesacrossthe back of each stile. (Measure tloe location of the dadoes from the top end of each sule, see Fig. 1.) A1TACIISOLES.To mount the front stiles to the side frame. first cut a rabbet along the back (dadoed) fa.,., of each front stile, see Figs. 1 and 4. Then glue the front stiles into place. see Figs. 5 and Sb. f.ONT ItAILS Measure across the inside of the case at the back to determine the length of the four
•
front them 10this length,rails and (H).TIlen rip them tocross-cut finished width. rescues. To iorm tongues on the (ronl ot the rails (1061 the dadoes in the stiles). cut Iwordb1)(:tsonthclrontcdgeolcachrail,see ~ig.6. These tongues also wiU hold the facing strips. refer 10Fig. 7a. rail are gm led' in PACINGSlRIPS. Aliter thecraus place. the focing strips (1 and J) can be ripped to "1dth. NOle: There are two dilterent sizes of (acing strips. see Fig. 7a. CtrrGROOVES.Next. CUIa groove on the back (ace of each strip LOfit. OlltO the tongue on the front rails. NOle: The groove on the top and bottom strips (I) is offset on the width. sec Fig. 7•. CIIT TO LENGnl. Now cui the strips to length 10 fit between the front stiles.and glue them in place. see I~g. 7.
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AND BACK
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GUIDES.Next. cut six \o2".wideguides (L) to length so tiler fit between Ole back of the case and the back o( the front stiles (Gl, see Fig. Sa. Now screw a guide to the lOP of a runner 10make a drawer support, sec Fig. S. Glue and screw the completed supports 10 the inside of the case. with the front ends of the drawer guides (1..) glued to the lOP of the front rails. see Fig. Sa.
TOP FACING
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DIlAWU RUNNIIS & GUIDIS Once the main case is complete. begin work on the drawer supports. Each support consiSts of a runner and guide. sec Fig.S. RUNNERS. To make the runners (1<). rip six pieces of :1'," stock to width, see Fig. S. Then cut these to length 10 fit between the back of the case and the back edge 01 the
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To give Ill. case a finished look. slopped chamfers are routed on the outside edges of aU the stiles, and also around the inside edll'!Sof the side frames, see rill.7. (For routing the inside chamfers, refer to paRe 17.)
No. ;6
\'(/ooJ,mim
9
BASE & TOP
~9~~~rl I'
\Vdh !he bask of the nighl standcase com-
9
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pkit', work au! begin on !he base. TIle base assembly consists o(
•
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a base frame that's glued on lOP ofa kkkboard trame. B,\SE FRAME. To
CROSS SECTION
.,.
BASE
make the base frame, cuta frame front (M). FRAME SIDE .ax t .... frame back (also M) and two frame sides ,,' 1Ih.WOOOSCI!IW O\ltlt· J (N) to width, see fig. 9. Then rollRh cut all HANG Iourpieces to length, 1"larger than the case. Before L'UtUngthe piece. 10 final length, rout a bullnose edge on each piece. First, b. 8ASE FRAME 1,...,·"0. rout a W' round-over on the top edge. see Fig. 9b. Then, to r01l1 the bottom edge, t switch 10 3 v~"round-ever bil raised ~Il" / N above the router table. 8ASEFRAME 8ASE \~••.0. After the pieces arc routed. miter both FRONT/BACK FRAME ends 01all the plecesso the lengths are 214" SIDE f-.... longer ((rom long-point to long·poin!) than Co the case. Now glue the miters together to (oml the frame, (Hold Ihe pieces on a Oal SPUNtD ~ surface untll the gllle sets.) JOINT K1Ch'Jj(),\RII,The rest oflhe base consists /~~ of" kickboard front (0). back (also 0). and two side'S (P). see rig. g, Ailer cutting \ these pieces to width. miter both ends of , ,," each piece so the length o( each is ~" KlCKBOARD ~ FRONT/BA.CK KlCKBOARD .lIuriler than the bullnose frame. CUT SPUN( TO m KtR.f StDE Kf:RFI!t SI'I1."E. To keep the miters aligned while clamping. cut a kerf in each miter. and cut a spline 10 fitl'3ch kerf. see 1"111. !Ie. 10 o. ,\S.~f.)18I.Y.After the joints are cut. giue tbe kickboard frame together, Then center and glue the base frame to the top of the @ kickboard.see fiR. 9. TOP Shop NOle:There 'sa trick tocentering the baseframeoverthe kickboard framewith an equal amount oj overhang all around. FirsL NOTE: In" COVEdraw a centerline On all four pieces of each GLUf(.C)VI MOI,DING1N In frame, see Fig. 9. Thcn simply line up all the !'\ACt AFl'£R \ ® ROUT.UllNOSfmarks and clamp the assembly in this posi- TOP '$ SCJl EWED ON TOP TOCASl tion while the glue dries, "ASF. TO CASE. To attach the base asCl.£ATb. CROSS SEGnON sembly to the cabinet casco drill shank holes through the b3SC"(ramI', see Fig. 9a No" turmhccaseupsidcdcwnundceruer the base frame on the ease. Then mark the 100"3UOnoflhepilul holes through tile shank holes, Finally, drill the pilot holes and screw the base tv tll~ cabinet. CAalNEtTOP ClAT ~ To complete the cabinet, l started work on COVE the solid-weed lop (Q). Uegin by edge-glu- MOLDING ing enough ~." stock to make a blank IS· \IT,\CHIDP. To fasten the lOP 10 the eabi- Now enlaf)(e the shank holesin the cleats 10 wide and 22" lonR·Mer the gluedties. plane the blank flat and trim iI2\1." larger than the net, ) first glued a pair of cleat...inside the let the lOp move with changes in humidily. case.see Figs.IOaJld lOb.Next, with the top Then screw (d()n'Lglu~) the top inplace. topoCthe case. SC'eFill. 10. MOUlIN!;. To dressupthecabinet.Iglued ROI'T El>CES,Next. rout the same bull- lying on the bench and the case posnioned cove molding strips (R) around the case nose profile On all four edges as on the base on it upsidedown.centerthe lOPon thecase. Then drill screw holes through the cleats where ir~joined IQthe base and the lOP, see frame - bUI (or the lop. the \4" round-over into the uadcrside of the lOp.see Fig. lOb. ('igs. 10 WId lOa. is on the "I'percdge.
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No. 76
•
•
DRAWERS Wbeo the molding strips are in place, thi! last thing before the cabinel is complete is
11
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10make the drawers, IlRAWER PARTS.
{k'gin by rutting the
drawer fronts (S. \V) from :v." stock so they're V~· smaller in both dimensions than the drawer openings . see Fig. 11. Next. cut rhe dmw e r backs (f. X) 10 the same dimensions as the fronts. bUI irom ¥l". llIick siock, (I used poplar (or the drawer sides and backs.) Then cut the drawer sides (U. V) Cromthe same Y.!" stock. CUI the drawer sides to Ihe same width as the Cron"'. and 10a uniform length of 1211,". JOL\'ERY. Once all the drawer pieces are cuI 10 size. r01i1 half-blind dovetail jolnts on each comer. SI.' ''-!g. 113. (For more lnformarion on routing halt-blind dovetails, see 5"'" \Vr;od~milhNo. 58).
along the lower inside edge of each drawer piece as a channel 10 hold the drawer bottoms, see fig. 11a. DRAWERB01TOMS. Now cut the plywood Next. CUI grooves
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in the bottom of the drawers, Shop Note: Before assembling the drawers, cut a notch centered OD the bottom edge of each drawer back. see fig. II. This notch lets the drawer slide QVCf" a drawer SLOPthat's added later.see fig. 12. IL\ISE TilE PAXEl.S.To complete the drnwer fronts, I made chamfer <'UISaround
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create the effect of u raised chamfered, drill holes for the drawer pulls. panel. see Fig. lib. (See trood"",UII No. 53 see l="ig.13. Thedrawerpullsarecemereden for information on making raised panel the drawer fronts, ASSE~tRL\"Now glue the drawers up drawer fronts.) 'Vilen the drawer fronts have been square with the plywood bottoms in place, the edges
10
DRAWER STOPS AND HARDWARE Aner the drawers have been assembled. there are a fcwdClailSlhal remain before the niRll1stand is complete. GllDF. STRIPS.To help the drawers slide more smoothly, I added oylon glide strips 10 tho drawer runners. see fillS. 12 and 13. These s.trips raise the drawers off the facillg strips and "reate a continuous. evenlyspaced gap around the drawerfront, DRA\\'£IISTOI'!;. Then.tokeepthefrontsof ihe closed drawers flush with the cabinet
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each frontrail.see rig.a 12. facinR strips. I glued drawer stop pad 10 ~~"'~OC~~K!!:_~::~ 11................._<, 'lute: Sju: these pads smaller than the nOlchonlhebottomofthedrawerbackso 14 l". '1,'1.' ,:.' , the drawers can be slid into their opeJ1ings. -~ TtlR.VBt'TONS. Then. 10 prevent lite '\ ';d--.i.!k, CUAT drawers Crambeinll' pulled all the way oUlI 1"'T'---..l!~~~~~--=--"",--7-;,,:;;;,P screwed rurnbuttons 10 the inside of the front rails. see Fig. 14. SCREW Pl.ASl1C 'MIN FINISH. Tccomplete tile proj~",l.lfinished .UTTON (t:N1tl!lI> the entlre nigbl$tand with Genernl finishes T~S:;IP ~~~laCthel1 anfid.RIIl}d'al rlllish. th \.!! rtn,u y.• ner e nos I nes, 0I0llJlI c ~. drawer pulls onto the drawer fronts,
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No. 76
WocJd..m'th
II
PROJECT
WEEKEND
•
Desk Picture Frames A
t first. it may seem like malting these picture frames is a rather involved process. It looks like there's a lot of fitting Ihin little SQuares of veneer in perfect position on the front or the ftnmes. But it's not that difficult The "veneer" is actlJa1ly a :V."·thkk piece ofwood tbat'sglucQ to the fronl Mlhe 611nw and then trimmed offto leave only ~.I'l"thickness. And the design is routed through the veneer just deep ('nough so Illl' contrasting wood (thl' frame i!SCIJ)shows through, (For variations on the basic design, see page 15.) COltNER JOI~"I'S. There's something else different about these I'nunes-they're 110t joined with miter joints. Instead I used astub tenon and groove jOinl, see ~1g.1. The groove serves a double purpose, In addition to holding the tenon at the corners it also holds the picture, glass, and backing, And by leaving access at the bottom ofthe frame, the picture can be easily changed.
lASE FUME Thefirst thingto decide is the size photo you want to frame, All the measurements shown he re are for a 5" x 7" phuto. see Fig. I. Begin work on the base frame by resawing a 32"·loug piece of stock to ~" thick. Then rip il I" wide. GROOVE. Once the workpiece is cut to size.the next step is to CUIthe groove [or the stub tenon and groove joinL To allow for the correct setback on the front of the frame after the top layer of wood is added. tlu.. groove is CUI off-cenleJ' on tile thickness of
1
CUT"~.··WlDt GROOVE AlONG fHt- ~Gl'M Of
1ltf fRAMt: StocK
the workpiece (I-t" back from the rronl face).
Icutthe groeve!ift6'wide.1ltisaccomm(, dales the averagethickness of glass ~12·). oPlional mat. photo, and I-t'-lhick backing. To CUI the groove on the table saw, adjust the dado blade to tOUI \I,"o(Icep. see Fig. 2. Now pial" the firm! face (If the workpiece against the rip fence and cut the groove. FRAME rlt;CI'S Once the I\TOOVeis cui in the workpiece. the four pieces of the frame can becut to length. see F-rg.1.Cut IWOsides (A) 8~" long. and the top (B) and bouom (C) pieces each r," 10nR. sruHTF.NOI<~. 11,e nCllt step is 10 cut the stub tenons on the ('J1d~of the lOPand bOI' 10mpieces 10fit the ,.,-oove.Since the groove is off-center, the tenons are Oil of{-c:enlt..:fon
see Fig. 3. To cut the tenon shoulders on the/a., of
the thickness
10 match.
each piece, you'll need 10cut a W'-deep rabbet, sceStepl in ~-lg.3.i\l1dthen to complete the tenons, cut a ¥tll"-dcep rabbet on the back side. see Step 2.
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No. 76
•
RESAW aorro»
PIECE. The glass. picture.
and backing slide OUI through the bottom oi the frame, To create the opening. the frame bottom piece has 10 be resawn inlwo. To do this. SCIthe rip fence ~6· from the blade, sec Fig. 4. Next place thejroll( face of the piece againsllhe fence and resaw the piece in two. The ~6"lhick piece is the finished Irame bouom (C). But save the waste piece, see Fig. 4n. (Rcsaw it, if necessary. to ¥l6" thick, It wiD be glued to the oocking board as a backing Sltip later.) FRAMEASSEMBLY.Once all the pieces arc CUI, glue and clamp the frame together, see Fig. 5. To hold tile bottom piece flush with the frame face until the glue dries. I eurremporary spacers and slipped them into the grooves wilh the tenons, see Fig. Sa.
a.
IACt(ING
SlIt..
5
'RAMi FACt
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r" lfMPORARY
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SP"CO
1'OPLAYER
•
Afler tile base frame is assembled. you can glue on lhe top layer 01 contrasting wood. You could glue on a ~"-1hick layer, but there's an easier way. I glued on a thicker layer ~.) and then resawed most ofit leaving a ¥.l:I"-thick layer. Start by gluing on the lOp layer in (our pieces: the two sides (E) arc each 8Yz" long. And the top and bottom pieces (F) arc each 4~" long. see Fig. 6. (There's a variation oflhis thaI has a different wood glued to the comers. refer [0 Design #3 on page 15.) FINAl. nUCKIlMe edge 01 the frame. see Step 2. Now rout these grooves so they intersect al the inside comers of the frame opening, see photo below.
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IN GROOVE WHlI,E OWING UP 'lAME
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No. 76
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WTT T~ LAYER PlEas TOGnKlR
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FRAME fACE
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BACKING BOARD AND STAND The last step inconstructing a picture frame 9 is to make the badting board and 'lalld. The BACKING backing board holds the photo and glass in the [mm~. And the .lalld is a wedg e-shaped 80ARO ®-..._ block screwed to the back of the backing board. see Flg.9. BAt:Kl:SGBOARD.The backing board (G) can be made of any still !1I··thickmat<~ rial. such as Masorute or plywood. CUI the board to ..idth to filthe WOOV~ in the frame. (Mill. measured 5".) A. for length. rut the board to til from the tOP of the groove 10Ihe bottom efthe frame (mOO). STAND srAND. Next, cut the wedgC-$haped block e, for the stand (H) from a ~"4hick piece of . stock (10match the frame) on the band saw. see Fig, 10.TIteDslightly reuiid the top end with a sander. see fig. 93. &\CIQ.~GSTRJP.Now cut a notch in the bottom of the long edge of the stand 10accommodatethe Mekinl! snip (0) Ihat was CUI off the bouom frame piece earlier. l;('t' Fig. 9. Use Oneend otthe strip as a template to indicate the stock to be removed for the notch. see Fig. II. The next step is 10glue the backing strip onto the backing board.see Fig. 9. It fills in the area between the two sidesofthe frame. Finally. screw the stand to the backing board. S('C Fig.9.Note: Idid'flglu~thestand tothe backing board. This way. ifI ever want 10 hang the frame on the wall. it's simply a maaer of unscrewing the stand.
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11
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FINISH AND ASSEMBLY Once the backinK board and stand are aY sembled, you can appl, a fini.h to all the frame parts. I sprayed on IWO coals of clear satin polyurethane. Once the finish is dry. the contents can be inserted in the frame. GlASS.Several things go in Ihe frame along with the phnto. The firsl is the glass. I used a standard thickness (.I'd') piece of glass thai measured 5" x 7". But you could use a piece of W' Plexiglas Slide the I(laSs through the bottom or the frame so it drops into place behind the frame face, see Fig. 12. ~'ATA.~nl'IICYfO. [f you'reusing a mar. it I(""S into the frame next, Pre-cut mats are often available at frame sheps and art supplr stores in a variel), of colors, \11th the mal in place over the R1a:;s.slide the pholo inlo Ihe frame. face down on the mal. '""C Fig. l2. BACKINC UO.<\IU). Finally. slide the backing board (C) intO the grooves in the side pieces. see Fig. 13. l'ush it all the way in. FIIJ..ERS.Depending on the thickness of the glass and the mat ),OU use, the contents of the frame mlght be 100loose. If this is the case. remove the backing board and insert one or more pieces of cardboard or beavy paper as filler on lap of the photo. Then slid,' tbe backing board back in place.
14
12
FIRST: SUDEows INtO FRAMEOPINtNG
CI.
'HOTO
PH010
MAT
suo<
\.'):t"·TKICK
SECOND:
(0VI1O...... ) "'loT AND II'MOTO WTO htAMl
13
TO KOLO (ONTENfS IN 'RAM£.. SUD( BACKING &OME)
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No. 76
.)
•
DESIGN #2 .This frame is a slight variation
of the bask design shown on the bottom of page 13. The differ· ence is thaLan additional groove i, routed in each face of the frame LO create four small squares at each corner, To make this design. first complete the frame as shown on page 13.Then re-position the y. groove bit so the point is centered on the frame side. CEl\'1"£RmEBIT.
TIw most tm-
Thi. simpt» voriation oJ Ihe portant thing about thisdesigu is ba.•ic fNJ)II~ d~siJ1lIi.mlly toget the bit exactlycenmrcd on NJt,till.y (lll ad~f;tlrrPl(l1grool'(' the width of the frame. see Fig. lao To do tbis. start with a V"'I)' C'cntcN'(1 (}i' Mtll.!rn}'lf piece.
1
C1It AOI>I11ONAI. GROOVi UNTUlD ONu.cH
a.
_PIta
HA.lI1H( WIDTH
01 FRAME Pf£
shallow CIII.and then check the groove (to match the other position of the bit to be sure it's t,'Toovesin the frame). Finally. rout the center groove centered. Now. re-adjust the heightoflhebiuocula W'.cJl'CP across all four frame faces.
DESIGN #3
•
71(1trdti all
(,,1NI
n.r(,p)lf
to !jQHr
[lUI"'!, gl".I"·sqlltl rr block. of a scr(f)ld controsli1fY frvJl~1f)"t(J
the rtJr11~'rxoftJI~
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",£
.In this variatlon.two contrasting woods are glut'd 10 the base 2 frame. rather than one. The routed design. however, is the same as that shown on page 13. To make this design. first CUI four 1'14~quare pieces of con-trastingwood for the comers of the LOp layer. Then cut the other 1~SOUARI pieces of the tOP layer from a GlU£ &lOCKS INTO diiferent wood. For the basic £ACHCOINat frame that holds a 5" x 7" photo. make Ih~ top and the bottom pieces 4 yz" long and the sidr frame wilh Ihe square pieces in the corners. All the pieces pieces 6W'long. GI...l E SQl'ARES IN C()K..~f:HS. should butt UI' againsl each Now glue the pieces 10 the base other, see Fig. 2.
GWIE ON \~. TOP
LAYlR AHOAISAWTO LIA VI "»", nutKNUS
Once the glue is dl')'. resaw the frame 10 thickness. Then rout the same pattern shown on page 13on the router table.
DESIGN #4 Start witb the completed • To make the circles in the comersquares.l used. plug cut- frame shown on page 13.TOIlH
•
ter and a countersink. The coun- the circles centered in the tersink is one made by \V. LFul· corner squares. I used a fence and SlOp block on the drill press ler (No. C8countersink).It'sthe type thai fil. around a dnll bit. to align the frame. sec Fig. 3. (For source'S, see page 31.) To do this. mount a lttG"dnll bil in the chuck and aUgn the pointof the bit with ihecenterof one of the squares. Next. move Ihe fence and SlOP block against the frruneund damp them 10 th~ drill press table, see Fig.3. PU c; (ITn'ER. Now. to meke the l"rge circle. plunge a lo:!" plug curter into the veneer jusl deep enough for the base fromto to show through. see Fig. 01. COt)~"'HSI.sK. Next. replace the plugcuuerwiUI the countersink. see rig. 5. Retract the drill Tltl' c;rclfR ,'l th i« rQ"'lle~· bit Into thecountcrsink so the bit 1jtlt(or(1 (lrt' 111IJde Ur;JfllftYJ hits will not enter the wood. Now 11011 migitl "ot ft;t'pecl- a plug make a cuuhcsame depthasthe cutter aJld (I C(}U)tff>nftllk. plug cutter circle.
No. 76
3
USE SMAU DRILL IrT AS A (WID( 10
aNn.
CORNER SQUAU
4 CUT LAttGl ClR
W oodsnu rh
5
IIfTAACf
OIlJU. I--..JOJJ'NTO COUNTtrtStNK
CUTSMAll. CtRCt.< WJtH CQUNtfRSf,.,X
15
SOME
TIPS
FRO
M
SHOP
OUR
Shop Notes
r (
DRILL PRESS ANGLE GAUGE • Drillingangltd holesonadrill press is a Straightforward matter - if your drill press table tilts. (If your table doesn't tilt, see the Shop Note below.) I~ut even if the table 0011 be tilted. you may have a problem setting the table at jUla the right angle: When we WI
a 4"-10118angled block off one end of a scrap piece, see Fig. I. CE~iER T,\BI.£. Before you (lID uSE'this gauge. you'll Deed 10 tine up the drill press table with the centerpoint of the chuck. If these aren't in alignment 10 begin with. you11end updnlling the holes at a compound angle. To align the table 10 the chuck, fil"$l insert a long drill bit
or a Slraighl rod into the chuck. see Fig. 2. Next. loosen the clamp that hold. the table 10 lb. drill PI'<'S>column, Now. pesition the table so the bit l" centered over the center hole in the table and re-tighten me column clamp. TII.TT,\Jll£. To usc Ihe gauge, set itonthe tablewith the angled side againsllh~ biL Then loosen
the bolt (or clamp) that allows the table to be tilled. and tilt the table so the edge of your angle gauge buus up against the side of the bit. see rig 2. Now lock
the table in this position. Note' Before you begin dnllillg. it's a good idea 10check me angte once more. just to make sure the table didn't move when you tighk'lled the clamp.
I.v -ii
2
FIRST: AlJl)N
en W'fTM
(INTER 01 fAet.£
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t>
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SECOND: nlTT,ullA,NO nGHftN WH(N
en: JS.N AUGN#ltENf WmtGUiO(
1
To uSC the platloml. position it on the drill press table M the edge of the platform is paralte! to the edge of the table, see Fig. 2. (If your table b round. orienl the platform pcr~"d;r"lnr' 10 an CE.'''TEK TABLE. Before you can use the plalIorm. ),oul1 need imaginary line [rom !he column to center the table in relation 10 IhroURhwebi!.) Thenclampthe the chuck. (For infommtion on platform 10 th~ drill press table, Note: If you own a small drill how to do this, see the Shop press and need 10 drill angled N{)tcabove.'
Then glue and screw 0",se wedges to a scrap piece of ply· \\'000. No'''' serewa second Pl('''C4! of plywOodto this assembly as a platlorm for clamping the jil! to the drill press table. see Fig. J.
2
r-osmox
ptATJORM
~Ot-TO·SlDEFOJ!; SMA-UtA: WORK9fEC($
PtA11'ORM.
holes in an oversize workpiece Oike Ihe seal uf the Shop Stool on page 18). you can increase your drilling capacity by posilioning the platform differently. To do U.is. position the pial' form so il faces [ronl·lcrback on the drill press table. see ~iJ(.3. Then. before you clamp il in place. check to make sure the edl1es arc prop<'riy oriented in relation to the table.
3 POSITION Pt.ATfORM fRONT·Y04A(K fotl
UJtO(1t WOA.Kmas
16
(
(
DRILL PRESS ANGLED PLATFORM .liow doyou drill angled holes with a drill press if the table duesn'llilt? Simple - you build an auxiliary table 10tilt the workpiece, refer to Fig. 2. A.>;GlJill pI.Xn''ORM. To build an angled plntiorrn. start by cutting a pair of matching wedges [rom scrap SOIhe mitered angle of tbe wedges matches {he desired angle of the holes you need 10 drill. see Fig. J.
.)
WooJsmith
No. 76
• I (
ROUIING INSIDE CHAMFERS • A fmnll' and panel unit looks mor..·lini~hl·difIJ,l·insideedgcs
you can use a V"scr()(.v,·n,ult'rbil
uniform distance from the frame edge, The guide also stops the
of Ih,'
Instead, Sine,' a V·grtlov(' bit no PUOIbearing. Ih,' pond can't interfere. Then. 10 substitute (or tht' pilol bcariJ1J!•• 11.1I:h• -hopbuill edge j(Uide 10 Ihe rout er. An edg~ guide doe s 1"0 tIting>. FiN. il k.~'])SIhe bil a
router a uniform distance (rom the comers (¥.' for thisj(Uidt'l To make the edge guide, fil"l ,.'"ide I<1lhe basco replace the original router base Th"n turn on the router and with one made (rom I," \Ia· rai'C the bit unlil enough is exsonite, see rig. 1. Then, (or the ","l-d 10cut a narrow chamfer the guide itself; cut an()lher ak>og!h,· edge of the frame.
Irame
nrc Iil(hlly chamfered Uik~ on the Night Smnd, P3lIC 6), RUI routing. chamfer on the", edge. is a problt-III if IIw unit i'assembkd - Ih ....pand inll"rleres "ith the
pilot bc3rin~ on a chamfer bit.
1
To lIel around Ihi~ problem
h.,
a.
Of
.1
2
AUG>«DGt
Ili....ce of \1.0" Ma.ooilc 1\'," wide by about :1" lOOK. see Fig. I. Ali"",tlw lodge of the j(Uide will. lh,' c('nll'rof the bil and glue the
I
TO
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OlRlcnOH
wtOnt Of lOOt OUiOIontltMtNts STAll AND STOfi POINTS or CHAMfta
I1ASt
IRIMMING IHROUGH IENONS • AlI"r a""mblinJl the Shop 51001(,hollo" nn pagl." 18).1",,,,, (ac-ed with the pn.blem of tnmlIIing Ih., ,·rnh. of the protruding wnon, flush with the ..cal and the 1e'S!<. "'. ~"jj{.I.
Th~ reason Ihi";'ltkkyis
that
none or Ih~ tenons are trimmed
O",h 10allu' ~urlace. So Ilw procedure I fc.und to be most accurate j, to trim the tenons flush in tour "1f"J)~1!..jnJothalld tool:$.. ROll.II TRI\I.Thl' 6",1 >lep is 10 rou~h'lrim Ihl' .... nd, or the tenon' ".!h a hand '_'''. Iea-ing aboul V,," protruding. see rlj1. I. Thi' k"3'....I''''' II) be chiseled. CIII,fL FlI 'II. Once the l('nJ:t..~lpart of the tenon ha~
r
I
"uaighl scraperwork- fin,' hen-, sun- to the ten )0, not the surthe 1001exit> Itll" other 'ide of """0 5,\IOOTR.The final 'Iell roulldin~ surface. An electric !he tenon. Abo, 10 prevent the is 10 sand the surface 01 the- '3IUl<-f. a I:orJter smding 3I'l'3. chisel from ).'OUI:101[ Inlo Ih. workpiece smooth. Astain. if, would reduce the surroundinl! 111M.' qukkl} tenon itself, hlllet Ih,' "hi""l wilh be<11Odo this by hand. not with (rill" ~"min) thnn Ih,· (end groin) tenon, This Q bell or pad sander, I used n Ihe bevel side 1/"11''', llANO SCRJ\I'~. Aft"r Ih. sanding block made or scrap w()ukl re-uh in a "dished" area around Ihe tenon -not'lenon tenons are chi...,I<'" Ol"h, Itwy wood wrapped with sandpaper, can be scraped. 'nw ·;l0pc."1I1Ih. Using. sanding block Ie" you Ih:Ol', pt'rfcclly flush wilh the seat is gradual t'nc)ut(h Illal .l beuer direct the 'l3lldi~ pre," surrounding surface. \Ole: Don'l "hi""1 '" far lilal
"';u,
",mce
1
FIRST: ItOOGH-TtIM
SECOND:
MOST Of ttNOH
CU1 RUSfot WITH HAHDCHIUl
wrnt aACX SAW
-.
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ri3
2 CHISU TOWARD CLHn. ASYOUWORlC
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bt-'t"nn'll10\t:d, th(>n~t '!'tepi~lo
•
chop ,''''ay Ih~ resl wilh achis.-L To pre,enl j{ouginjt Ihe adjoining "llrfact work your W3)' around Ihe trnnn, chiseling loward Ih,' ,·cnl~r. see Fig. 2.
;
O,
Nil. 76
l..
17
SHOP
PROJECT
•
Shop Stool What's the most intimidating part about building a stooL?All the angles. But locating and drilling holes at an angle doesn't have to be difficult. That is, if you use the right technique - and jigs.
R
(>cp-l1IIY. Steve. our shop manager. showed up in my office with a request, "l think it'sabout time 10 retire theold mew shop stools and gel some newencs," "Okay: I said, "but how about trying to
build some ourselves." t was thinking that I'"" always wanted 10 work on a way 10 hollow out the seallor a stool. Sieve look up the challenge. Wilhin a couple days, he and KeD(our designer). had a protolype $1001.(And even talked me into helping them make the rcst ot the SIOOIs.) JIGS. As expected. the challenging part was designing rhe jig for scooping out the seat - without using a lathe. It's all done with the routerriding on aeouple of runners. We've done a separate article about making and using this jig, SI
excuse
10 try
another technique. see sepa-
rate artklt> on page 24.) To make sure this stool holds up as lonll as the old metal ones, we used solid oak throughoUL (For sources or oak dowels. see page 31.) Then a contrasting wood (walnut) is used toacc,ntlhc wedged tenons,
MATERIALS OVERAll DIMENSIONS: 14'W.
26'H
'.x '4 CliO
A Soot(I)
11
8 LeQ${4) C IJpperSltet¢I'IeB(2)
Iv..' dowel' 26'1.1
Jill' dOwel· 1211,. D Loy/a
.) .
• (1) "'"' of General FInIsh Seatac'" • (I) PInt of
18
General FIlW\ Arm·R·SeaI
W oodsm irh
No. 76
=
•
SEAT I~ ",ork on tbe ,1001 by bwlding tilt· ( seat It 'tan'oula'a"luarebLmkand IMn can bt· cut or turned to a perfect cin:1~ '~.\T To01.'11
o
"'A'''-
SEAT
Now drdw a pair of diagonal line» on b,,//I
sid(', 01 1111'blank, see rig.!. The interseetion ()flh~<,('Ii"," will locate acenterpclotou Ilwblank (I(lr culling the 14"-diamrtrr circle) nnd h,'lp in laying OUIthe position 01 III!' four "'!:).ol," M,nk the position 01each hok- lI,;i' I",m th, centerpoint 00 the lup lace lOrIh,' blank. -ee Flit. I Aft~rthr holt...an' t..idoull"'torlum the "'.ll round ~'olc'll)ou''''lumingthe;;ea1 on ,"II ....you <·""also·'
@
uo
SEAT
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o
"0
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...
~~
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7'
,
,
...
.
....
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tS;
:0, LOWER
UPPER
STRETCHER
STltETCHER
.... TI' TT\lII.. , !lw n.xt"episloliltyourdrill
pres
"'* ShUI>Note', olll>age 16.)
llC'lJ<;ndil.'U\ar10;. line through the bit and Ihe cenu-r of 1111'drill press column. And clamp lit" jig 10111l'wbl" ,0 Ihe bit i$II"(,,,'I1/ over """ of tl u- k'~ layout holes, see fiR 3. Now drill the fnur holes, rotating the work-
IlRiU 11<)....,.. '(.~ J>lace the sear fac e-u p piece (no' till' jig) bll,,('('n drilling. on m(' pin III Ihe indexlng jig and rot.31e it SIL-\,PI-"'h.\T •• \ill'r all Iour holt's: art' until a d;'lIIun,d hne on th~-eat lines up ..ith drilled.the seal can ", .....moved from meM th.. t'llll,-rlin" un Ih" JI~.Here's the tricky andRi'cnihfinal'hapo' FiN.I.cooPl'3' profil.· u,iol1lh,' iiR shown on J)ag<' u(lp<'r <'...ith Ih, poun of )'OUr 1· drill bit. \~.. round over bit and bevel the 10\\er t'dgl' Th( II.aclJUM tilt' (r'lnt t"'d~e ur the jig SO itO, "';Ih a ~houc('nn..: bil • ...,·t" liJo: t
mi'
,..-,h,·
2
1
V
'::=-_..J.. ...:=~===~ ..-
'1'Iay,'II outin all four direcucns.)
Thm' an' a number of stI'pS 10 dning this. FiN. the (lPIlO...ng leg holes haee 10 be aligned dm 1'111/ a('ros, from each other during drillil1l1'lo(k,!hi" I madea"mplcjig. INIW\INGJU:, '1", jig isjust a piece of pi),' wood with R ~•• dowcltharacrsasapieot pin fur Ih., "'81. ,,'to ~-lIt,2. Ii,rolating the seat on !hi, pin ynu ran aliWl the diagoD~ mark, on lht· "'t'ilt \\ uh a centertine on lht JIg. 111l~ ensorr-s tht holes ....iU be-drilled in a lineQlld an ,d, ntilal di,lallct· (mm th"CCI1l1'r T I)bt· able to II'" th"ji~. )'ou1l need 10fiN drill. 1,·-<1<'\'11 hole (or a pivot pin centered unIh, IH1II".'olth,·...."l....,(erIOrlg ~.A1so, """od th,' rd<'f\"k~ lines on the scat blank d""Jllh,· ,-d,:,,,,ol~blal1k.,,.... r~ 3
LEG
•
.- I
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INDEXING JIG
3
14·,.
I.'
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I.- PCVOT .'
DOWn (lA,M" SO
,1tONT (DOt tS 'I.,.,NDKUU. TOllfANO
NOTE:
COlUMN
UXATt ClHttRPCMHT ON TOPAND aonOM
4
•
TllJTA8t£ 10 '0'
SEATCIIOSS SECJlON
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Nil 76
AT 10· ANGU
t.*HOUfO' -
PWOf PIN
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19
LEGS/STRETCHERS \Vilh the seal complete, work can begin on th~ legs and stretchers, I used 111.."dowels forme leJl$and 'is" dowffi1for the Sl!el£hl'l'S. (t'TTO LENG1H.Stan by cutting four 1<'118 (B) 10 length. _ Fig. 5. Next. round over the bottom end of each teg (8) with a W round-over bil in the router table. The lenl,'lh of the =chcr'l dependon the angtp C)[ the legs. Since the legs are ''Playt'
stretchers are cui to length. the tenons can be CUI on me lop ends of the legs and buIll ends of me stretchers, (For nrore information on t"Otting wedgtll round tenons, see the article on pages 24 and 25.) Since the I \I," legs fit into I" holesand the '111" stretchers fil inlo~" holes, I routed 1.11" off the circumference of each to produce I" and ~" round tenons, see Fig. 6. Note: Set the router bit to cui Hhglltly less than \11" deep. Then file or sand each tenon 10 fit its rnortise. (Dowel sizes will vary.) Nter the tenons are cut. Ihey can be kerfcd 10 receive the wedges. I used a kerfing jig 10do Ihis. see Fig. 7.
111~:-=
5
L£G~
•
•
,!------------- 26'''" -------------1 LOWER
STRETCHER (,,>' oowtll
@....
...
1)1'."
:
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fs
1.......
7
6
cur
(ENTIRkfRf OHOOWll
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O.
KfJlflNO JIG
--1\... --.,
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is 10locale the holes (or the stretchers, This could be the trickiest pan to thisprejeet, bUI ) simplified the task by making an assembly Note: For appearance, r rotatedthe legs so platform (see Fig. 8). and a simple marking the kerfs on oPJlosil~legs are parallel to each other, see Fig. Sa. gauge (see Pig. 9). MARKING {:AL'GE. The marking gauge The assembly platform i.a plywood square with (our holes. see l'ill". 8I~ are in- consists of a long guide bar. a spacer. and a pencil, see Fig. 9. when (aped together they serted in the holes to bold thesn auheccrrect [arm ast·lf·aligning marking gauge fordrawangle for marking the stretcher holes.
11,.
ing lines centered on the lega,The key is the spacer - it's CUI so me pencillead hits the center of the leg, sec Fig,9a
To draw a line centered on a leg. hold the gauge so Ihe guide bar touches botll legs. see Fig, 9. Then. move the gauge up and
down 10 make a mark.
9
a.
INSl:lTlfOS INTO Sf AT ANO SET IN PlAt1CMtM
D\I:RJNG
snttTCHIlt
I.()CATESTR£I'CIIER 1I0US. The next Slep
8
HOlDoowtL
,
16- ;It 10·
I'lYWOOO
lW1stUGS so t(lRFS ON OPPOSi:NG LfG5 AA£ PAAAU£L
,
AS.S£M8lY
MAIUC c:tNTtRUNf
PLAf101tM
ON IHHO fACl.S OF AU. fOUR UGS
)
CUT SPACtR SO PINal l1AD IS CENRRlO ON UG
20
Woodsmith
No. 76
t)
•
LEGS ISTRETCHERS
CONTIN'UED
Once theceniered lines have been draw" on the inside faces ofthe legs, the next step is 10 mark the locations (height) of the stretcher holes on these lines. To prevent the holes from weakening the legs. Ioffset the upper and lower stretchers by 3". sec rig. lOa. MARK STR£CTUERROtES. To mark the upper stretcher holes. measure 9" up (rom the bottom of opposing legs and make a mark. see Fig. lOa.Then. measure 6" up on the remaining lines and rnake arnark to indicate the lower Streicher holes.
10
One thing before drilling the holes. The location of the holes (9" and 6" up) are dependent on IWO things: the lingle of the leg holes drilled in the seat, and the shoulder-toshoulder distance of the stretchers. Since irs easy 10 be sligbtly off on one of these measurements. il'sagood idea (0 hold the stretchers alongside the legs and "eyeball" them 10sec if the stretchers align with yourmarks, There'ssemeforgiveness, but if they're way off. you may need to reposition the srretcher holes.
DRIlL sntETC:Ii£R HOtES. To drill the stretcher holes I finn mad. a simple jig 10 hold the round legs steady while drilling. The jig is just a piece of scrap wood with a 'i!s".widegroove. see Fig. 113. To use tlw jig.1irsttih the drill press table to 7'. Then. clamp the jig LO the table so the groove is centered under a W' bil and square to the edge of the table, see ~1g. II. Now drill a hoi. in each of the marked locations. Note: The tenoned end or each leg is al the high end when drilUngthese holes,
11
0,
cmttll DRIWNGJiG
ON &IT AND
MtASUA! UP BOM
CLAMPTOTAaU
80TrOMOfUG TO lDCATli HOUS fOR SntllCHW
•
o.
• ASSEMBLY Now that the holes are drilled. the stool can be assembled. To do this, apply a SIDW"""t· ling glue 10 the upper and lower stretchers and insert them into the legs. TIlen. set til. legs back into the assembly platform and rolate each stretcher so that alltile kerfs in the tenons line up horizontally, refer LaFig. 13. Nexl apply slow-setting glue 10 Ihe leg tenens, and push the seat omo the legs, see Fig; 12. Noto: I used a rubber mallet 10 assist these tenons into the mortises, working around the seal until the tenons bottomed OUl on their shoulders. WEOOES. The next step is 10 cut and trim
12
ASS£M.MI. STOOl. ',ARTS
13
I,.....
AND TAP l'OGETWU
<, .....
to SEAT TtHOft$:
aOTAT,snuTC~E~
r-~~~
so I«RfS
UNf UP
~~~~~~~r HORIIONTAUY
~
the wedges (or the tenons. For more on cut-
•
ting and fining wedges. see page 25. To insert the wedges. 1i"'1 apply glue into each ken. Then, drive. wedge imo each of the tenons, see Fig. I~. Now the tenons and wedges can be trimmed Gush.Formoreon this process. see ShopNotcs.pag~ 17. FlNISII. To finish the stool. I wiped on a coat of General • inishes Sealaeell and IWO coals of Arm·R.&al
No. 76
\'(I,.x!smith
~l
JIG
S
&
FIXTURES
Seat Scooping Jig H
do you make a
OPENINC.\\'hal makes
hardwood $1001 comfortable 10 gil on? Traditionally, YOII migbl scoop out Ill~ dished ,;e31 with. scorp or inshave.
this jig work so well are
OW
tWOfeatures Illat control the workpiece. First, there's an opening {or the
seat blankonthe bottom 01 each rail. So when me
(Or you could smply add a cu'lhion.)
For shown wanted loured
workpiece is slid inlO the jig (like puuing' bread in 3 loaSler) it can't rise up as
the Shop Stool
on pag~ 18. I a '(}lifor~1,J!J4:al Ibal'" nearly impossible to gel with hand tools. Wbal I
came up with was a wa)' 10 shape the seal using a router and a special ocoopingjig. \Vilb titi~jig,llle router moves like apenduJum - but it's nOIsuspended from above. Instead, the router rides "roller coaster" rails over the workpiece, And Ibe workpiece is rotated between cuts, see photos below.
it's being shaped, Pl\'OT riN. Bul rhe most
RAil.PRQFlt£. When you use this seal Importanl pan of this jig is the smaUestscoopingjil( (or anotherttke il foradillN"nI' the v." dowel the workpiece pivols around. size sean the slt«1)I' of IIIe profile on tilt'
ROUTElt IIASE -
•
toun:RSASI
suo••
8D'WUNJlAllS_
;~I "re ~irl{J"(li/~ I,old tJI( SfeQi Oil 1/,,, J~!I .•4 J't·tun'ttlhl,· /,itl()l pi" kr<'11I
bluI,k
el'IU"U
pm'I!1' ',"i It/rolll rot(lij"g lI8 flIt ),'OI'f.err-ut,'i.
BASE
CROSS SECTION
Ridtl/lI alvlIg tlu: (,wl'cd 1'tlil~ofth, j'll. tbr router ~)4t$j)lr/rt dtf'pi!l i "fu lIlt ('I."tt~·r o.ftl" blank tbnn 'h.
JIG BAS(-
PIVOT PIN _.,r
- ANGER.(CiSS
No. 16
.
•
MAKING THIIIG Th ere nrc IWO things tbnl alfe<:l how you make this seat scooping jig. 'n.e first is the size (thickness and diameter) of th(' seal blank. Then rhere'sthe question ofhowdeep you want the "scoop" 10 be. I buill the jiJ{ sho"'1 here for the Shop Stool, The seal is 14" in diameter and the scoop W deep at its centerpoiet, Also. I wanted to leave a I \!.t"·wide Oat rim around the top of the seat, The jig consists of a base with a pivol pin that holds uie workpiece. and a pair of
bon om ofth,· tap.'t1·IOlII'therblanks (or the workpiece 10 6t in. see Fig. La. B.~E.Once the rails are cut out, the next step is 10 make the base thai the curved rails are attached to.Tc do this. first ripa piece of plywoodlo widlb. see Fig. 2. Then cut this to the same length as the curved rails. Now the railscan be glued and screwed to the base. PIVOTPIN. Afler the ralls are screwed down. bore a hole for a removable pivot pin in the base of the jig. see Fig. 2. To make it easlerto insert and remove this pin.counter-
bore. I"holeon the bottom side of the base.
see Fig. 2a.
ROl.'fER IMS£. To make a base tor the router. 6rsl cut a piece of plywood to the 10 rails. a plywood base is attached LUthe same length as the jig base is wide (9\;2"). router. (Allille plywood parts are :h"·thick.) Now driJi a !"'i!ia. hole centered on the plyCUR\1;1) KAt LS. Start the jig by making a wood (or the bit. Next. remove the plastic base (rom your P.1ir of side rails. To do this. first CUIrwe rectangular pieces er plywood 10 the same router and use it as a template to mark lbr size.S(.'(:Fig.L Nowdrawanarcwitha radius posltien of the coumerbored screw holes for mounting the base to your router, of 42" on one of the railblanks. Compittclhe routt'l'base bycuu.ingrabbets Next. remporarilysandwich the blanks tobottom fa<:e.see t\lt. 3a. The rabbets gether (I used double-sided carpel tape) and on i~, prevent side-to-side movement of the router cut the arc on both pieces at the same Lime. Then lay out and <'UIthe openings on the on the rails. curved rails (e)r the
to tide on. Then, steady the router as It slides along the n)ltt(!r
RAil .... HK
'"
USING THE JIG
.....,
SiAl,.lANK
• ,
~
.
--
- -
wo•• __..? $uRJ'ACt
"'-
PIVOT PIN
SlitkU"!$ ..tJt51I1>lk{"lhtJ!~optffliJ!g 1 bet1t>e">llh~ jig ~ alTa ~i.dt""/$.
TIt~/I PI<$/t the pit'OIpi~ lqJ (./I'I'OIifIh Ihe baM lnt()th6ce.!tRt/wl~ j>r 11u
o
Roumt
---
lAS' •
-Mo""t a~' .troig/,t i~ 2 "",(I'r and the ,"')II~r Ihe miL...Ad)i~t Ihftlltti'I{(deplh oj'lheliilso bit
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•
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~
101'~-
'THICKNESS
OF SlAT alANK
2
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No. 76
W(l(>Jsmith
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JOINERY
Wedged Round Tenons A
IoIIMaedmortise and tenon joint is ~iblyslt'Ong. The strength comes from thewedge. The tenon isn'lju!;tglued in lhe mortise. it'slorkodin placewith a wedge. And if the wedge is made of a contrasting wood. the exposed joint looks good too. A variation of this joint. the rr)lj ,Ill wedged mortise and tenon. has another advantage - it's easy 10make. For the tenon. you can useadowel.And the mortise issimplya hole drilled in the workpiece. (NOll!:The wedge is especially lmportaru on ""HId tenons which can shrink and cause the jointlo ral1.) ROUliD1"£NOSS.The tricky part of making thisjoinlislinding a way tocuta round tenon on the end eta round dowel. The easiest way I've found 10do thisison the router table, Although were showing curved ~houlders made with acore box bil (the)'soften the transition between round parts), you could use a stralgin router bit.
challenge is culting the kerf, then culting a wedge 10fil the kerf. But both of these have simple solutions. refer to the next page. KERFSA.'11lW~OG£S. Another
ROUND TENONS Cutting tenons on dowel. is easy when they're cut on 3 router table. The tricky part is finding dowels lhal are truly round and consistent in diameter. To avoid problems,) drill a hole illa block 10match the size otrhe dowel I need. Then I take this to the store a. a gauge to help select dowels. GlllI)EtJSF.s. With dowels in hand. the
next step is 10size
uie tenon. The diameter
of the tenon is easy
to determine. It
has
to
match the mortise (hole) thatit's going into. BUIwhatabouuhe length? r cut thctenon so il will project V," beyond the mating piece in the joint. (For example. I cut Iv.z"·long tenons on the stretchersot the Shop Stool on page 18.They pass through 1V."..tJUcklegs.) SET·l 1-'. To cut the tenons. first COV(."rthe throat opening on your router fence with an auxiliary fence. refer 10 Slep 2. Then. damp a support block 10 the table so the dowel is
centered over the router bit. see Step
I.
Adjusting the bcighlofthe bil isa trial and error process. Using a scrap dowel. slOWly sneak up on the final height When the tenon is just slightly oversize 10fit in the mortise. stop and sand the tenon for an exact fiL TECIISIQUE. To rout the tenon. push the dowel into the bit. see Step 2. Then pull the dowel ou~ rotale it slightly and push it back inlOthe bit, see Step 3.
ROTATl-WOR.i(PIf(! 5UGKTlY
ANO THlH MAkl-AIrf01'HtR PASS
blocJi """itiems IU,,""" at",r bit. To 8tOlt Ihe 1<'110/1, P1Uli! 1M 1811011 .lighU!I /a,yl!'r tnan. '"0,~i8C. Ttte» posilioll the lu,xiliary fence to deter- workpiece .lowly 811'(liglit isuo the roll1,r mi,,~theIlmgt" oft". tenon. bit. The>l,pull the "'Orkpicr~/Kick Ollt.
1
24
Adj".1 ".igld of TOuter bit to C1<1
2
The support
\XIoodsmi rh
NexL rotate tlte workpieceslightly and push it barJi into ths router bit. TiI," pult it 01,/ and rotate again. Continue itllhi$ ')1(1J,,,,('1' unti! tne tmo« is complet».
3
No. 76
•
•
KERFING THE TENON Once the tenon is rot to size, the next Stepis to cut a kerf for a ....'edge in the end of tbe
tenon. To prevent this wedge from splitting the workpiece when u'sdriven in. the kerf is cut 90' to the grain direction of the tenon, refer to Step 5 and photo on opposite page. GUmEUNE$.l3esidesori~ntirwthe kerftu the grain. you11also need to determine the width and dept h of the kerf. On tenons greater than Vi'4hick.1 cut an lot·wid. kerf.
To do this. I CUI the kerf on the table saw since most carbide-tipped blades are about !,so"·lhick.NOle: If you're working with a small tenon and n thin kerf is required. you can cut it on the band saworwith a hand saw. To determine the d"PlIl oCthe kerf. insert the tenon in its mortise and make a mark near the shoulder otthe renen where it bolo tomsoui inth~ mortise, Then make sure that your kerf doesa 'Ill" below this mark.
SET·l P. To (111kerf. on Ole table saw. I
made asimple jil!-a2x4iaid on it' facewith a hole drilled init the same size asthe tenon. sec Step ·1.The jig rides against a tip fence thai's positioned so the blade will CUi a kerf directly through the center-of the hole. rscuxrors, Insert a dowel in the bole. and push it through the blade, see Steps 5 and 6. Note; Don'r twist the dowel during the cut- il may bind ;uldcutajagged kerf.
DalU Hau SAMf DtA.MlTUt A.STtNON
POsntoN RI' f£N;a
SO ILADE IS CtJrrlTElUt ONUNE
5
TI} lfInk- a kr,.jI'/!T j.g. draw a IlIIf To ("lit a krJ1 .. Tlr'IJt "~erta (tl/Ol' iJ' centered fii' til., Ifllgt', uf (t m"(tJ'I);prt: till' k'l'fill!l j.g "lid II"'u it IIp~id" (J1.g,.~.Thrn, drill a holt· centered O,l tlti~ ,lUI"'" Tilt ,~. tU'i."f.(. tlt( 1(,'OI·kj}lt'Ct'..,:o tJle e••d gmrn oftlu: ft'?lt)";4 »r to thf t't",t"tlillf. lifl/" It} actl'pi (lie teuo».
4
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PultttiQU ri,l.ft'II(,t! to Cflt n kerfclOltJtl tilt' Ci'lIlfl'lmr of th» jig. 7'11."./",.I! til_jiga>tl/workpi",· /)Millie b/.orl.llygl'ip' pflfg 1/1< douet Gild /lsmga pu sII block.
6
WEDGES the ken 111en I expenmeru with the taper angle un III the wedge spread. the tenon and the concept ofa w,'
blade and the fence is slightly less than the width of the kerf in tile tenon, Then, tilt the bladcto tht desired angle (3' in my case). 1'ECIINltll,E, CUI the wedges to length On [he table saw. see Steps8and 9. Then. <1'1it the wedges to width with a chisel, Next. appl)' !!Iue 10 Ihe tenon and kerf and insert the tenon in the mortise, Align the kerf, and drive the wedge in place. (For details on trimmingtenons,S(.'C page17.)
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To (npi'y.firni />I)';"UII rip ft lice TIIP>!. rut Wl'tlgeH to leliglil. Positio» bottom ... Iigldly I... 9 7 lVfrl!}l'.«lItSI} Iii. rip/elite tile II'f'tige,'fall o!flo blade n,,1f ft.,'Cf tlw" I.idill of klJl'j. Then n tal"'" i~ 8 dixt~ltll·t tile left oft/ re blade. This ~ep. IllJ'UI/rom 0111
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No. 76
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25
C 0 !vi MEN
T S
AND
QUESTIONS
Talking Shop GLUE lOINT FAILURE • Th, u!>'" jo,,,l$ (J)I (1 pY(J_/1'
spread or penetrate as easily." CIAl;" ClAMl'lIo'CI'R~:SSI1Jlli.
Rut the grealesl cause of glue failure is the one you probably have the most c:nnlr'OJ over -
/)aJ' t\';e}.nJJ.l
Thatcher. .~'·I.um" Whe" glue joint failur" 0<'x-u1'S. it's usually thought that the glue is the problem. DUI the glue is rarely at fault. o As long as the sheUIifl.'of the glue hasn't been passed, and the glue hasn 'I been frozen, the odds are the glul' is "kay" ex-
plains BI')IlIJ1 River, a research scientist at the l:SDA Forest Products Laboratory. Bryan suggests ilial the most
common problem he encouatvI'S is incorrect pressure when damping the joinl. But glue joint failurecan be caused by the glue surfaces not being properly pre-
and cause them 10fail. So it's best to give your wood plenty of time to adiust to the
conditionsofynurshop. ln mest cases. a couple weeks is ~nough (or kiln dried lumber pared. orbychanges in the meisGLl t StlRPACI~S.J\nothC'r lute content of the wood. common cause nf glut' failure is >fOI5n'RE CO:'"TENT,Qui re that the surfaces to be glued
often wood is stored outside then brought inlOthe shop to be worked, If the wood is imrm-diatelycut and glued, Ill<'moisture content of (he wood lila)' not have fully adjusted to Ille drier conditions o( the shop Eventually.the moisture eontent ofthe wood lI,illadjust to the indoor conditions. And since wood moves when its moisture content changes, the resulting movement can S~'" the joints
aren't machined properly. "Some woodworkers think the host glue b one thai has been roughcoed up by
surf.,,,,
the amount of glue spread and the pressure applied to the clamps. I( 100 liule IIlue or too much pressure isapplil'
ing.
spread a thin, consistent layer of ~Iu. to both surfaces, J
se." phote bottom lefl. This ('0. SlIn.'S that both surfaces will be fully wet and there won't be any
uluc up th, pieces (ora period o( time after you cutorpianc them. •t'. bt:S! 10l'X»05e a fresh edge spots without glue'. with a ,;anding block and some Then, apply pressure IQ the 2'20 or 320 l!rit paper. joint by tightening Ille clamps The reason (or doing this is until an even line of glue seeps because aller a couple or weeks OUI between the boards - and the surfaces start to gel covered step, see board (8) in photo with dust or pollcrams from the below. Don't give the clamps an air. "An older surface is less extra rwist because it WOnt give II'l'ltnblt than a fresb!)' cut sur- you. stronger joinl- it11probface" is th~ way Bryan explains ably make the joinl weaker by iL "[n other words. liquids don't squeezing out tOOmuch glue. NOaUM? QUISTION? SolVIng. problem (oJ' uvoidill&one;ntheJirstpiace) is part of "'.0' proj~l. But the best solutions aren't always obvious - they often come (rom one who's !aced the problem before. If you have a probtem. soluti0n, question, or even
M()ines. Iowa 50312,
26
•
No,76
•
• THIN TABLE SAW INSERTS rials Ihal work well: phenolic (8 very strong and durable plastic) fil 11110 ca.~1iroll I0J'o', 8111 "'If and aircrafl plywood. Since only a lew plastics dissaIl' ha« a tJti)l stt'l'l top ll:Jlic/t requires a \Ii;··tllick m....1.AllY tributors sell small pieces 01 Ideas tJJll,OU' c« " l moke (til 'n· phenolic. we're offering ~", !"-thick blank s, see Ht'rl t11ltt'giKJtl, tltin (Z1~dRtm"g! 4116".and .... 1'im Willi. page 31. Aircraft plywood is ..\flallta. Grorgl0 available at 1>\0$1 hobby stores, curro SIMP£. To make an inThe uicky part 10 making a thin insert is 10 lind a material that's sen, begin by tracing the outline the correct thickness, but still of Ihe original insert onto Ihe strong and dimensionallystable. thlnblank. se e Fig, I.Then cut It MAn:RlAlS.llound two mate- to shape and file or sand to fiL • \\'oodsmith nl u-« !18 'till 01t'8 W'·t/.wk lahle ,'Oil' ;".'ris lila!
method would be to start out can use the wilh a lhicker mateoriginal insert as a template and CuI rialand then rabbet the edge, see Fig. 3, it to size with a lIusb Irim bit. UTTIIE SLOT.To cut the .101 To add weighl and support to either insert, you may want 10 (or Ihe saw blade. start by lowerglue a stiI(enercur (rom It." Ma ing the blade completely. Then, sonite 10 Ih~ bouom, see Fig. 2. to hold the insert in plac e, Then 10 make il easy 10geuhe tighlen down the rip fence over Insert OUI01the saw table. drill a the insert (nol the blade), see Fig, 4. Now turn on the saw and fingrrholealoneend.seepholo. TIIlCK INSERT, Instead 01 810"'/(1 raise the blade through u~lng_a mill material, another the new insert. Or you
2
1 ORAWOUTUNt Of 0 RtGRIIA IHSUITON
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CASE HARDENING Lhewood is calle-dconditioning. "Since moisture must leave a "One way kiln olX'rator, k'" board Irom the outer surfaces, II) see illheir lumber is pr0p<'rly as the board dries the center "'ill condiuoned. is to CrO~S-CliIa J". wide lest piece from the center sometimes bends as it's ripped, 113VC a hlgher moisture content And we indicated that he had than Ihe outer surtares -a cnn· ul a board thats randomly probably encountered reaction ditloncalled case hardening,
• Scou \\ elsh from C0j!3n Station, l),.\ read our response in W"'"I.~lIIitJl~o,74 to another reader'> question - why wood
leanillgtree.
But SCOII notes there's anotherpossibillty besides reaction wood. "It's also possible lor this same problem to occur because your lumber has not been
properl)' dried.
"'rhis
produce-,
internal
stressesln the board and the end
result mighl be a crook or ,'(jg(' bend when tho board is ripped. ""'hen kiln operatorsdry lorn ber, they imroduce steam into the chamber of the kiln _>-. <: 'I at thE' end otthe dryinJ,! "\......,..f'---cycle. The steam penemISKIN _Of'S mwm< r Irale, tllCsuriaccoflhc WtT cOli AND OR:(SIlm 1 lumb('r and equali7.es .... - ~_\.'. i. the moi~ture content --- ~-t ..... , h h th b rei. I roug oul (. "" wtTlMNO COR.i ThisfiJlalstepindryin~
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iscut into IhC" shape o( U
"lf the test piece (I,}(I~dl\~erge merv than a Itl"", Itlt'11JJl1~r il-
case hardened and Ih,' kiln oper3tor\\111contlnucwith thcconditinning proct!~ until a new test pit,'~shows the lumber i> OK." PItOHGS OMRGI MOttl tHAN '''.''.
WOOD IS CASE kAJtolNtO
tuning rork. set> Fig. 1.
'r4~cut
this shape. they
make
two equally spaced CUISthrough the thick».... s o( the piece wilh a band saw, "lf the lumber was properly conditioned.
Ihe remaining prong>; "'on'l div~rge more Ihan l"lo" "'ht'n Ihe cen· ler prong is rcmovNl: see Fig. 1.
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TlST PIta
TOO
AND
L S
TECHNIQUES
Edge Jointing Basics
•
W
hal'S Ihe secret
QUESTION: !JtJ<'. it maliI''' .uid< I II/al" 'h. fimsl1rd IlOtlrd~formy PO'" /.
10
I"""
gluing up panels so the
jojnt~ arc strong and nearly
invisibl~?The answer lies in the edges. Boards with straight. :mlOOth.square edges glue up Into Datpanelswilh strong join Is tha, are h11rd to see.
As a rough rule oflhumb, I usuall)' rip all of the boards I'm glu· ing IO.l1cther10between 3" and 5" wide. If the boards are any wider than 5". they're more likely II) cup. even after they're glued up into the panel.
BUYING WOOD
The job of making a good jomt aClually starts al the lumber yard, I usually purchase lumber forpanels with both faces planed smooth. (!hi. is called 525. or 'surfaced two sides.") This makes it easier to select boards that have similar color aodgrain pattern WARPING.The next thing I look for is warp. The drawings below show four common. types. Boards with bow (the Caeeof a board curls in a ·U·shape along its length) or twist (opposite comers curl up) can be difficult 10usc for making panels. But boards thai arc crooked (Oal. bUI curved along their edges) or cupped (-Ushaped across ltlcir width) call be used.
However.they'll need a lot of work to make them siraighl and Oat enough for gluing-up. Ishould mention that nearly all boards are a linle warped. And you're seldom going 10 find perfect color and grain. So there's usually compromise involved when looking for hrmberthat's easilycut straighl and Oat. palPAllING WOOD QI fESTION: ()n", 1'," I]fII tilt uood.hov: lin J pl'~P"Tf' it for .dIWi/ll/iug?
ROt Gil RJPPI"'C;. I don't start
TIle firsllhing Ido is... nothing.ll1'm going te be making panels. 1buy the wood "arly enough thai it can sit in the shop (ora couple weeks. This lets the moisture content in the wood adjusllo the conditions in Ih e shop. ROUGH CVrnNG. AIler the wood has been
out b), ripping the individual bcardstofinished width.Instead 1 rip them about v.' oversize. This gives a little extra room 10 work ihe edges smooth. ,lrnight, and perpendicularto the face sides, see opposite page. And theextrawidth gwes you a little insurance when it comes time 10 trim (he finished panel to width. QUESTION: ~W,al'~lIu' br~1",ay 10 rlfl
Sitting (or awhile. you can begin prepara- R ./ migld edge 011 a crooked &1(1"l! tions. Start by cuuina your boards 10rough length, abouI3"lon~"'rthan fInished lenj,~h. I use a straight-llne ripping jig on tht> lable saw. The jig is Simply a 12'1·w ·ide. :y:,"othick 1do this (or a couple reasons. First, if you're jointing the edges of the plywood 'sled: The stock carl be either seboard on a jointer or planing tbem on a curely damped 10 the sled.tacked down on planer, there might be a snipe (8 slightly the ends, or held in place with double-sided deeper cut) at me end of the board. Also, carpel tape. when glu:ng up several boards. it's nearly USISGTIlE JIG. To use the jig, auach the stock 10the sled SOan edge cxtend$(lverl»1I' Impossible 10 keep the ends aligned. F'IlllIlJy,iflllewood >'j)UIsorIhejoinl opens edge oi till' sled, see Fig. 1.loco set the rip up. it's almost always at the ends. By using fence 12" from lhe saw blade (the same boards Illalarc abou(3' longer than finished width as the sled), 'low. 10 rip the edge length, you can CUInut an)' of these prob- straight. simply push Ih,'
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Nn.76
•
•
PUPA.ING THE EDGE An edge thaI is properl), prepared for Rlulng hasthreechara c teristies - iI'S~Iraighl, 90' 10 both (aces of the board, and smooth, Here's Why, Straighl edges make strong joints. But a wavy edge creates an uneven glue line where some of the joinl is starved forglue and some has 100 much. TooliUJe or too much glue can result in a weakjoinL An edge needsto be 90' 10 the facesso the panel will glue up nal. There's nothing more frustrating than discovering Ibal the angle isn't quite 90' afler you've applied Ihe glue and started 10 tlghten down the dal1l~, As the pressure is applied, the boards slide apart or they won't slay Oalin the clamps. Finalll', mating edges need to be smooth SO the gl"e can bond properly. \\'h"n the edges arc rough, the glue bonds 10 the raised fibers. and then the fibers can lear loose if the joint is stressed. (For more on glue joinl failure, see Talking Shop. page 26.) HAND PLANE So how do you mak .. a straight, smooth edge?TradilionaUy. a long hand plane called ajointc..·r\\'3SlI1e (eM,1 of choice. (Njoinling" is the process of preparing one board or edge 10 be joined 10 another.) Ajointeqliane hasa long SClI~.usuallywell over 20". So as u's passed over a wav), edge the plane tron (blade) only cuts off the high SpoIS. I" shoner plane "ill ride along the wavy edge and won', provide a nat surfaee.) QUESTION: I rail make aflut rug!' wi/It II h" ltd pIa 11<, bill wltll i~"Y it flQ'lo fhe/act·!
TI,e technique for jointing on the table saw is simple. BUI before trying this. check to be sure the blade isclean.90·lo the table, QUES110N: Whielt ""'II do [ ieat fire and parallel with the ripfence.I use a sharp but'J'd iftlt~·grain fs U'n II!I or$u·itcJ~(,':Adir«· 4tHooth carbide-tipped combination blade. tWll (Ui)((ltu (t k"ot? SKL\I CIT. To get a smooth edge. I use a skim cut technique. Start by ripping the This isprobably thetoughest question when edge about ""6" oversize. Then rip the edge jointing. Firsrof all, make sun-the knives on asecond time.lakillgoruy half the thickness your jointer are sharp. Then set the jointer to of the blade offthe edge, see Fig. 43. plane off \.'.12" or less. Now with the majority 01the grain facing down and back. feed the QUESTION: ~r/'nl'$ til;! Ot>.8t "'0Il to 11,'work piece at a slow. steady pace. tcrmi",.(f ,m 'iIar. M flro~ly jO;lIud?
the knives will pull the fibers down and
OUI
or the workpiece rather than dig up into it.
TaBU SAW
One way to check is to place the edge on
something thatyou knowlsstraightand Oal. like your saw table, If there's a light behind rrtti"!1 a ,."all!! good "11", (I,lItiable saw? the workpiece, It will show under any gaps. For a long ume, a table <;lW was all I ever But thebestmethod iSIO place the matlng used. In fact, with a sharp blade and a well- edges together, and put the boards on a tlat adjusted saw. you lillly never nee dajointer. surface. Any gaps will show along the joint, QUESTION: Is liter" ~om. frrlmiqlleior
2
a,
FAct' 540t
ANGUS Of
3
MATING £!)G£S MATCH
a,
WORKPIEQ
If Ihe original ~dgewas 90'10 the fare, then
Ihecltltlngcrlge ofthe plane iron may not be adiusted parallel with the sole orthe plane. If 11'. Dot parallel.the iron l'lIlSai an angle. Or if the original edge wasn't 90' 10 the race, you 013}' be straightening' the edge as you plane, but the edge r('mainsatll,,, same angle 10 the face. One cricktogeningagood filbelween lWO mating edge, is 10 plane both edges al uie same time. To do this, Uglne" both board, into a vise withIhe mating edges upand face side of the boards OULsee ~iI1.2. Now plane both boardsat 'he same time. !\oy variation from 90' on on" <'
•
IOINTI. Certainly the best tool for the job loday i.1I sharp. well-adjusted power jointer I~< designed CQ produce smooth. straight edges at a set angle 10the race side of the board. CHIPOlT. One of the biggesl problems with a jointer is chipout. To avoid chipout alongth e edge, feed the work SO the grain On thr (3('(>ofth"board pointsdown and toward the back end ofthl.' board.
No. 76
TO AVOID OUPOUl'. GRAIN SMOUlD fAa OOWN ANO lACK
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WORKfIfta
Woodsmirh
29
EDGE JOINTING
WITH A ROUTER
• There are several ways you can usc • router 10CUIa Sltnight, smOQth glue ed$:e. The fir,,1 way involves using your router IabIc'llkc a joinler see I~g. 5.
5
ROUTt. TABLE A)d) ~id~ of the router table f"n(~. The muter bit remove'> stock like !I,p knives of a joint,·r. and the laminate SUI'ponS the I1<''WlY'<.'U1 ~g,.
I used double-sided carper tape 10attach the ~16"'lhick plastic laminate to the f~nre Mount il so 00. end aligns with the bit open ing in tl1efence. "'-'t' Fig. 5. Then file a sllgtu bevel on the rolW of IIw laminate by the opening so il won't catch the Il-aclingcomer of the workpiece. see Ag. Sa. NeXl mount a straight bit in the router table. (If your router wlll accept it. a W'. shank bit works better than a 1,I."·shankbit since the thicker shank helps cut down On vibration) Then adjust the tcnce SO lite sur-
faCt'oflhe laminalcisaligncd with thcoutermost edge ol the bil, "'" ~i~. Sa. Now turn on the router and pass lite workpiece over !lIC bit imm ri~hl LO 1<11.For lite best edge, do tl1isinasmooth. non-soppass. This method has a couple limitBliun
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You can also use a hand-held router and a ,I1iketo use a :\1," straight bit. see Fig. 6. Alarge bh vibrates less than a smaller bit. SO it makes a bcuer OOIll:.Start by clamping nstraightedge fmcc to the workpiece 10guide the router. Then adjust the fence so the bit trims about ~·I." olltl1e edge. Note.To avold an uneven edge. hold Ihe same pan of the router base against .-,. tile fence forthe length of the cut,
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withahand-held rooteristo trim the edgewith aOush trim bit.Since most Oush trim bits have a bearing on th e bottom of the bit. the fence bas to be clamped to the bottom side of the workpiece whllc the router rides on the top. see Fig. 7. To trim the edge. align the straightedge fence with the edge of Ihe workpiece. For the smoothest edge. trim olf 1<16" or less (to
•
minimize bil vibration).
EDGE-GLUING ROUTER BIT • AnollK'r way to use a router lor preparing stQCk fOI' edge-gluing is to cut 1tl11)(lIC and ,,'roove joints in themalingpieces.Th .. elCtra gluiDJ;",rio"" makesa >U'ongjoiln. And the joint keeps the stuck aligned whil~ gluing. But making tongue and gTOOVl' joints can be time consum;nll. The traditional method is 10lISCtwo router blts, and that can take a
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..ITemS lONGUf ANOGtoQVf
ON lACHO)G(
30
lot oftim~ to and shapes theedSICsinone pass,Sloephoto. You only need one bit because it CU~ a LOn~l1~ and a groove on botl1 mating edges, see drawing. TIle edge .r one board is Cut wuh the face side up. Then lite mating edge on a >;I.'COndboard iscut face side down UMITA11()ss.A1lhough these bitscut per. fetlly matched edges. lite)' do haYt!somc limitations. f'1I'Sl.lhe bitscut a limitt-d range of stock Ulickne.'\ses. The bil in the photo. for example. ~'\Ilsonly VI"lO t"·!hickstod.. Also.titebil can be tricky IOset up. IIhas to be exactly centered on the thickn= of the ,lOCk 10,l(clasm09th panel.
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Motherlimitation i.personal; I don't.like tne zig.zag look on lite ends of my pnlject:s. So I wouldn't use this bit in making a panel with exposed ""cis. Or for making raised panels because the zig.z3g jon,t would be seen on the bt>vel«l surlares. 8Ull'd use il for panels "i!h hidden <'flds,such as framed panelsor lbOSO'willI breadboard ends. For soul'l:esoflltis bit. see Alternate Cat· alog Sources on tb~ oPlJO'iu: page.
No. 76
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SUPPLIES
PROJECT
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Sources This is a high-qoality carbide- h,,\'I· somc trouble lindin~ the rcm-ct "'AO (1 ~I (or the It·,Ks tiPIl"'-~teilSy,tem t" finish Ih. shown al.Jw boltom 01paR" I '. 1.'01al<· \ .laloSl Sources lisu-d ~igll' Sttlnd (we the section un we "sed 3 t"l" l)lug cuut-r- idl(l a be:lc.~ or '\'cwKl~ith Prooj<."t.'l Finishes, below). s~ial countersink bit (]\'II.l ~I s'JI)iJJli4:lu\\). 0(3) Solid Brass Drawer Pull" Shup !'.ool with Ceramic Rosettes. lnnll'CQUlltcl"iJlk isalsc availaeludes Moonting Hardware. hI,· frnln \Voow.mith Project 716·200 :o.hnpStool Dowel " ' ,.••.", ..,S2:1.~5 2lf!" [\{JfCSUPIJlies. lt's actually pan ui .. Kit 0(31 Plastic Tumbuuons (for COIllI>klC bit ><:1fordrllliOi: pil"t 0(1' 1\. Dill. b)' 36"·Long Red use a!'tdrawer stops) and ,hank holes as well ii,CUU'" ()~k (for legs) 01\ "r Glidt, Strip. (enough (or all hering. pressure-sensitive \.;0. S sc...ews. plastic, l,..':!··y,.'idl· Pilot Rit Set lour ...tretchers) GlJflF ,,-nup:nw sl'lf·adb.r· 756410 Pilot BitScI for Xn. ~ FINISHIS Screw ~ S15.95 il\.<; glide strip i,ayailabl. "'pa' 0(1) 1'« Brad Point Bi. tor For both 111,'~iSlhI Smodand tho ratd,. lt's sold by thcloot. ~hlIJI ~I,,'l ¥It: used (jencralt-io· 7~1·1 09 PIa.lic Glid,· :,triP. Shank Holes ~"..wide .. so "llJ)"r ft. ·0) \k"Twist Ili. lor ...tand,ml "11.·,'1",1110",, TI'c)"n'long oil ~n:\-\~ and un-t hanecomblnations that DESK"'CTUal F!lAME • (1) 7ft.," T"isl Bit lor 1..c .. Rol.)t call !>t. rubbed on wi.h • dulit . :-.crews nll'" makt-sit t as}'lO appl)' tu lltl' For thl' I)"sk I'idur(' Fram" :;hb""Tl tIn I)aS:C- I:!. ~·c.. u~"(1 '-'&" 0(1) $." C(lUnlf·rsink/Ctoun ...r· llloldinR,,,fth,· NigbtStandand IIIl' do"d. inlh(' Shop Siool. fll)",oud (or the badonsr bo;,rcl. bort' (;"-·nc·r:tlFiIJlshl'Sis.a l\\'O-stcp Thisplywo(.d (som"IIn1""C'd1kd 0(1) Depth Collar ....)·..1'·"', 'n,e first steJ) is a clea,r ain-raft plywood) is availabk· at o (I J ,\ll.n Wrench tunl: uil ""aJ.r e-allcd SealaceD. hClbb, >h"p" and th .. A1"'mlil<' SHOPS'OOL ..\[t,,:rU11..'~-alt!r drit'S. Llle sur· Calalog Snurec< liste'" bt'l"w. V·(tRO()\'l Hrr \\'f,;' 11~·da \i. Hardwood do\\ "I, lor th~ leg< fan' ."nold be lil:htiy robbe'll groclve bit to Illake tht! piclurt> and slJ1etdll'rsoi th,' Shop St.w,1 ,,;tl! ,10'.,1wool. Then th ...niland fram~. IC, 3vailabl,' (rum many shown on pall" lit m.), b.-avail.· urclham'lopcoat can be added. soon'.,., (>C'(> A1tem3t~ Catalog ble (rom a local lumb.r yard. 0" th~ Nighl Stand. we u<;ed Sulln-es liSled lx-Iowl or from home center, or retail \'·O(Jd· Gl'flCraJ Fini~h('$'R~)-all'inish \Voodsmith PI"Oj«t Supplies. workinjl 51Ore. Bu. you "1lghl .., .h,·lop CO:lIThi;;ldt ~ bt:auli·
NIGHTSTAN])
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ORDER INFORMATION aVMAIL 'rO orde". by mail. m1I' tho [emu endo,.....>d with " CW'T\m1 issue, 11w "rd~r tonn include' illtormation on bandUng and ship' ping ~harges, 3l1d ~1Ie> lax.
::-.end your mail ordFr tel'
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av PHONE For ta.>;lcsts<"''''''!IS<) ourToll ttW order IiJJ~.O!X'I'J \1,,06ay lhrollith Fridar, ItOO ,\).1 5:00 I'M Central Tim•. B,,16'. (alling, have your V1SA. :'.lastE'r Card. or Div (.'(1""[ Card ....,;!~••
1-800-444-7002 ~ ("".},,..'I', ,_.. I".f').1 II,. _p_'_',_._"h_:I<"_'_'O_<_."'_''!I'
76J·60 1
$9.50Quar1
Royal finish Oil and I rethan e Top Coat (Satin) 761·502 56045 Pint
761·602 ._
$9.95 Quart
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Oil and
l rethane Top Coo. (Satin) 761·520. 76) ·620
_ .._~ ...S6A5l'in. S9.95Qu3J1
, .. au S"W IN51a,s In Talking Shop (page 21) We talkedabout U,llll'!phenolit'p!a,;·
tic 1(1make a "Zt11K'It'araJlt:t" in
\\'ood~milh Project SUI)" plies IS offering 5" x 15" blank. o( phCllUli~that you can co. to fit lit" in"lC'rtoll<'ninl: in )'(lur lable saw. The blanks are "\/lUlablein three litkkncsscs. "0 nlt,""ore yaur table sa'" beiorc orderinfl find aut 1it .. IIean1slthicknes."
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Instructionsar~ iJ1Clud<-don ~ul ling the insert 10 fil th~>hapc' and depth ofyourNlw'solW'ninj! Phenolic Insert Rlank:, 776·3 J 0 II,"'Ph'·'lOlk... $6.95 776-320:V.6" f'henQlic $I!.95 776-330
L'," PI",nulk !)12.!J5
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ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES
J.fV.rh ,,.,11Oft!,, Int.
\\uoct."",,1.h ProjcctSuppli""
ful saun finish, \\'c wanted more durability for the 51.0<)1and used G.'n.ral Finishes' Arlll·R·5<·al. This b a heavv-duty finish. One pint o( _h is enough 10 fini"h the Night Stand or Shop Stoul, Wood.mith Projc~1 SuppJiC'~ is oifcring both pints
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31
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Final Details Desk Picture Frame
• Rtf fill/lUg 11,;u I(VJOd$tJ'p.~to a ba~,fly'
Oak Stool
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gt" tlu "lnk'if litJjtf/'ptJ f/"lt:Cr Th« ror,'flr .'fq"aJ'f'X ra II Ill' ,'./ the M ~)lt 11"f)QlJ - urn ('oltllTltft itty {'tIl
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Stand Details
• 7'Jtis ('Jtert·y .\'IUht t:.tal,d;,'t tl~of;!J'II'(1and built rln8wic_/;"tlt'tt:-tr.J)(/-JH1 net (rnsf ruotum ((I/tJ(;k gl1!f1t "JIJuyttjd,' II QJ((t1ft hed or n', t ',.Sg chair Il.JitJt
32
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Woodsmuh
No. 76