NO. 67
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.95
r
cArmoire KID'S l-IIGHCHAIR
SHOP,MADE MORTISING TABLE ARC' lED MOLDINGS MORTISE & SPLINE JOINERY
r
No. 67
February, 1990
EDITOR'S
COLUMN
Savvdust Editor
Donald B. Peschke
D"sign lJirCC\1Ir TL-d t
l'roJectD",ignor Ken Munkcl ·i"echl\ica11Ilu!drl'!!onl
Om-id Kn,,},1i11i! Col')' Chri_...ten~n Red Su,uk"" Chrl.! Glowacki
Cu~t.omerSct'Vict" Undn 1tlormw.l'tt)fJ'.
UsaThotn~n PrDj ec1SuPpll;>, t.c.U"Ann G<>-d.rluu1 Centrnller PIJul E. Gray Coml)ulcrOJ)('nltions Ken !\fin('r
J\dlllitllslmUvt·As~t:-.. Ch"'l'),'1 Seeu Sandy Baum Sourct'bc.Hlk
Jean Ulrey
Shop ~IJtollAi.·t Steve Curti~
Building..j\1aiDlcn:tnct'
i\.n::lli(' KnlUS(!
WOODSM1Tl-J STORES Store MannSte",~ SLl.
PesMoml"", IA Kent Wol"" WOUDSMml (ISS:>IOIl>I-j·lIl) is published bimonthly (FcbnHll'Y, April. Juno. Augl,ll'!, October, J)(:c('mlwr\ by Wood""l,tb I'IlblMllngc.." 22011Gmul Ave., I)",".in,,,,IA503J2. \Vc>Od$milll te a rtgis\cr(t-d erneft.-Inark of WoodSlOithl'ubli"bingCo. ,( Coll)'light I \)9() by Woodsmllh I'IlblL'ihinR COlnpan) . .1\11tll.thl~resen'l."fl. Suh.oriptions: On. year (0 il;$"''') $15.95, rwo Y<'l!'> (12 b.u",,' $Z7.95. (;:,,,.
"ill1': adrJ$'.lOOl)l.'Tycar,U.s. l~nrJ'('nJy.Singi.
cop)' prj..". 8:),9';,
Second CIus...I'(.. ~
Pnidm Pes Moin, ... I" offic<..,.. PO~HSI(!r:Send chullRe 01 addr('s!' ttl
and
~t"dditiollal
Wood6mith.Box491,MLMonis.n.610Sf. SubSCriptionQu_o ....? C.I 800-435-0715 In. ""'idents: 1IIJCl..892-0753)7:30 AM to 8:30 PM. CST. WL"kddY' Sampl. CoP)': W,·willsend n fn:e sampl,:~opy Qf 'V(JodJSl~I't}1 to onYQn\-".Just <:
A
s soon
;15
tJlis issue arrived. YOlI prob-
ably noticed some changes. Wood.~»liiJlnowcomeswrappcd in a bio-degradable poly-bag, TIICold protective cover is gone_There's a ~Vo0d8mith Store calalog included along with the issue. And the big· gestchuDJ(e 01all-s-we'veadded eiRhl more pages to chis issue. I want 10 talk a liule about all of these changes. Twelve years ago, the very fin;! issueof 1VOO(/l'Iltilirwasj)ublishcd with only eight pages. Duriagfhe next thrccyears, we gradually increased the si?.e to 24 pages. It'S been at that sir", (~r the past eight years, .. until now, Asyou can imagine, rve been looking (orward tv these extra page~ fora long lim", II meansthat we'refinallyable to present more iuformation and get involved with bigger, more complex projects. In the past, we had tough decisions 10 make about large Pro.itocLS like the Armoire that's in Ihis issue, Shollid we design it with all the nice details like an arched lOp and raised-panel doors. even inl takcsup haiftht! issue 10 show how 10 do it? Or, should we simplify il so il can be put on fewer pages? Even ifwe did show the full-blown version. we certainly wouldn't have room 10 add II companion article, like the one showing how to make the arched molding for the topotthe Armoire, Now we can get imo all these design details, CONTENTS PAGE. Wilh the added pages, We were able to make some other change s,
and better ups.the payment goes up 10$100 il we devote an entire page to the tip. Naturally, we're looking (or go"d ideas thai will help other woodworkers. So if you've gOI some good ideas. send them in. DETAns. 111C last page of I!'O"Mlliit/! i. now called !,inal Details, Up 10 now, we've only had enough room It>show one picture of each project. BUI there arc usually some details that deserve a closer look. Thut's whaJ this new I'af.{~is for. \Ve can show some oflh. detail. Ihnt make the projects in this issue interesting. 1'01.\-'1<\(;. Okay, all those additions to 1''')(Id~IfIII''are great, bUI why did you decideto mail it ina plastic bag? \oI/halabout the envirol1ll1cnt?Why"laBlle! Believe me, it wasn't an easydeclsion.l'm concerned about the use 01 plastic, and it's e-ffe<.1. on our environment, But I'm also eoncerned about protecting each issue on its way through the mail.
Most of the p<'Oplewho get IV"I>C')flllilll, save the issues. So they wanuoreceive them in good shape. AJlythin$C Illude of paper can ~ily get damaged, tum, soiled. or bern, So
we have. standard policy to replace any issue that's damaged in the mail. But I decided thal the bell way to protect th .. issue ill t1w Iirst place was 10 put 11in a plastic bag ... a bio-ilcgrudab/< pol)'.bag. IV(lori3mitl. is published in IOW'J. which is famous for 01l~other pr··bagis all about.) l3y adding wam to refer back to them in the future. corn starch to the plastic, il supposedly TIPS & T1!CHNIQUES. One of the most makes the bag blo-degradable. popular pages in l'Voodi
name and addrcs!i.
2
Woodsmith
No.6i
A
r:
LOOK
INSIDE
ntents Ti s & Techn' """"""""' ......~~;..;.,;
es 4 .. ..:..II
__ ~-.;;.,;;.j
Si~ qrea; Ups /1'0 In feUolU wood, ioorkers: 1. A tenon cutting jig, 2,
Clantping to a drill press. ;I, Edge-giuing trick, I., Dovetail layottt, 5. Shnple bUl-nishel', 6. Polishing Plexiqlo».
_.-:mjiliciia41 f61 A'II{jled legs dc'll '/ nec~ssal'iI i! '!teal' ~ a co'»tple.l' pl'oJect, S1?J'tpleJOUlel'Y
I
and knoek-doum fasteners make quick wOl'ko/Ihi$ Shl,?'dymaple Highchair,
page 6
This I;(lble lruJ,Ych~tnge the wall y01l Mortising Table [1;J 1MI epproach. 11.100dwOl'king,It holds a "OILtel' horizontally 80cuttingan accurate
mortise is a suap.
[ Mortise &. Snlinel -
r:
[141 AlothUbrid_joint ,til:,t doeen'! "equire a of tedious jittlng,
_
Sh .p N tes 1'121 Tips
'--
0-L__ O_ .... ~
/1'011t
inside the WOOdS11tith
Shop: 1. Burnishing a lnitel'. 2. Rats-
ing«n orched.pamel;8, Secul'ingpanelsin frames. ,I. Working 'with warp,
I-.... ------
11s1 A graceful cUl'lIed top asui '!'aised ..... =--...- pameidoors create astutely heirloom
Arm.oirej
project.
Arched Molding)
[261 haue Making an,al'ched molding doe~)1'1 to bed'i/fic:u.lt,Here aredeuiiled imtructi01!S for euent step oftlte job,
[
Talking Shop~ IJi'I A ~
router and the right type 0/ bit a're what "eally ,nake the M01't"ising
Table uiork.
[
"-------------"-
No, 67
Sources} (31) The place ,to look for
the harduare and s7'!'pp17es needed/0)' all the p1'0jects in this issue.
page 26 3
FRO
M
WOODWORKERS
FELLOW
Tips & Techniques TENON CUnlNG
JIG
CLAMP TO DRILL PRESS TABLE
• After I built the tenon cutting jig shown In IVOOlI~mitl,No. 63. 1added a fcw features that make ileven more functional. First. I made il easier l() re-
To mount the clamp, drill a hole through uie jig slightly largerthan thepipe.Position the hole so the pipe will be set back about~" (roo, the Irontcdgc of the slop. This is to allow the workpiece to iii flush against Ole stop. (When replacing th .. Stop, I justcut a notch in Ule (ront edge of the new stop so it fit around the pipe.) Now push the pipe through the hole and add the stiding clamp jaw to the side of the jig with the Slop. Then add the screw head on the other end o( the pipe. To keep the screw head in position, I drilled a hole through the flange on the damp head and fastened ilto thejig with a screw, To usethisclampsetup, make sure the bottom end of the workpiece is O~Ion the saw's tabte,
• Whenever 1 want 10 clamp a workpiece 10my drill press with Cctamps, the ribs thai.nre cast imo the underside of the table arc always in the way. 11,.. ribs are spaced so they're always right where I want the clamp to be. Alld tJu,y're so nar-
WORKPIECE-
TENON JIG RTS OV(Jl flNCE
place the vertical stop. After using tile jig (or awhile, the bOI· 10mI(nd o( the SLOP!,'C1l; torn up and needs te. be replaced. 11,e idea I had was LOcut a shallow (l--lI"-deep)dado down th~ face o( the jig. Thlsway all I had 10 WOIIKPlECf ,
do was
CUl
!
a new
stop to lit in the dado and It would I'>.. automatically be I': o'\. square 10 the table. Aner rip IIInil I be CUT stop, Iscrewed it in DJU)O -=: place. (& sure lite
screwsareabcve the
rOll STOP
Dau.L OvttSIZ.tD
~
Fi" .
I
< J:
!
- scarw (lAMPHiAD
J.
lOJIO
,
.ij
tl:1 ,
~ ~~~
""
AOD;;'- .LOOWELJ:OR
pruboftlw blade.) , HANOLE My second idea HOU lH*OU()H , to. involved. clamping JIG A,ND STOP system to hold the workpiece light againsllhe face and the back edge against the o( the jig. If the piece isn't held stop. Then you only need oue tiltht. it can till out (rom the jig hand on the jig 10 push it along and creates a tapered cut on the the table saw renee, One last tip, To make it -asler end uf the len on. The clamping system I came to tighten the clamp head, I up wilh isjusta small pipe clamp glued. V,!"-dia.dowel over the that fits overa \l4"I.D. pipe. (The end o( the clamp hand Ie. Em mett fI"Ogo(l nne Iused Is 3 Iorgenson Pony clamp No. 54.)
4
block. between the ribs, (You can also use double-sided carpet WI'" to mount the blocks.) To remove the blocks, insert a small punch through the slot and tap them out orpIY them off with a screwdriver. Tm1lo.wter
Corpn« C/,ri.ti, Teso»
rowthat ifyou try to clampto the
edge of one, the clamp slips right off as it's tighlened. To solve this problem. I cut and glued some scrap blocks to fit between the ribs. Because
I oc-
casionally use the slots in the table, I didn't want to permanently fix the blocks to the table. So I just PUI a few drop" of glue (rom a hot glue gun on each scrap, then stuck the
/
GLUE CHI tAP( 'LOCt(
,.
UNOlJtTABLt
WOOD al.OCK
GLUING WITH INNER TUBES • Whenever I clamp boards to- bicycle inner lubes instead o( gether with pipe clanws, I put waxed paper. Icut the Inner tube waxed paper between the pille into 2" lengths, then slice them and the glue joint. [( you don't, down their lengths. TI1Cy'Ucurl the iron pipe will react with the right around the pipe damp and glue and create a black stain on stay in place. the wand. l'lace one ofthese lube pieces The only problem with using over the pipe at each glue joint. waxed paper is that it's hard to Also. to keep the boards level, keep it in place while trying to place one at each end of the pipe, jockey the boards and clamps near each clamp head. C/Ii'i.,GI()w(lcki inlo position. Recently I started using old De8_j'foi'le.~,Iowa
Ey()UL.A1inllc8<)ta
Woodsmith
No. 67
3·D DOVETAIL LAYOUT .AIler reading about dovetails in II'QI>d.",itll No. 66, here's another method for designing and laying out "through" doveclil joints, One 01 the toughest jobs in I"ying outdovetai Is is visual izins: how they will look on the actual workpieces. 1'01' example, to httpvislllilize how Ole dovetails
will look on the corner of a drawer.I draw them out on a 3 x 5 index card. Cut the card the same height as the drawer, see FIg. 1. TItl!JI draw a line down the center of the card. This represents the comer 01the drawer. Label one side of the line "FltOl>T' and the other side "SID~:."
1
Next draw base lines to the right and lell of the centerline equal to the thickness of the drawer front and side. Now IllY out the pins and tails. o also shade In the sections that will be end grain on Ihe boards.) Afterlhe pins and tails are laid out, erase the extra base lines and fold th.. card in half. To see
what thejoim will look like, hold thecard against tile corner of'the
drawer. see Fig.2. Once you like the layout, fold the card over on ilS~JIand hold Ii 00 the workpleces to make starter marks for the tails and pins. see Fig. 3. RI!t' .•tlayk A COlYW«
.'lhnl'V!I,liel(/, j\Ii.}l,llfJ..~otn
3
2
PINS
TAILS FOtO CAJtOIiOARD
( HI1GIiT OF SlOts
THICKNISS
O.SIOCK
Ediloi··.• Note. 17,;A ualt·, bl,ri,ishm'u'O"k8 well. For more i rifo,?"at(QJl 011IWI(' 10 tfJI«( rpe» ttlt~1i(Ht' n srrclper, "ffR?' to
\Voodsmilh .Vo.,~9.
DOwn I
TttAH
v4l.vr
No.6?
SlIM
\
CLEAR EDGE PLEXIGLAS
When using the burnisher . grab the dowel with one IHUtd and the flauencd head or the vaive wiU, the other. This lets you really apply pressure to the scraper blade makin!lthe job of "rolting" th~ burr much easier. CI",,'es A. ROl/dil/eUi ~'nyetl..uil!«, N0l1h Carol;""
,"·DIA. WOOD
DRlUHOLl SAM[ S1Zf OR SUGHTlY SMAWR
LAYOUT MAJtKS_ ro WQlUCPUCE
AND STAND UP TO VIM POUllU JOiNt --
VALVE SCRAPER BURNISHER • Instead of buying. hardened steel burnisher todraw and (Qrm the cutting burr on cabinet serapers.I useanold automobile enginevalve.(1 get allthevalves Ineed (rom a local mecbanicjuSl foraskins:.) To make this valve burnisher easier to usc. I added a small handle that's cut (rom" piece 01 J"-diameter dowel. Alter CULling lite small length of dowel. drill a hole in the-end ofit. 'Then push it over the end olth. valve stern «) serve as a handle.
fRANS',.
AJ.ONG C(N'f(AUNf
1
dab on a clean while cloth and rub it alonlllhe edgea few times. Theajust wipeoffthe tootilpasll' and look down Into the edge of Ole Plexig~1s. If the ~>dgeisn't clear after the first attempt. JUSL repeat the the edge, I tightened" fine file process until it is. Then rinse off flat inthe vise. Then Irubbed the the piece and dry it with ;1 soil edges of the Plexiglas over the cloth. Gil Strl,bel file and removed the burrs. Nag",..tl}/lJll. Ma,y/and After filing olf the burrs. I sanded the edges with 240, and SEND IN YOUR nps then 4()()·grit weI/dry sandpaper. (1'0 keep the edges flat. Ifyou would lIk(' to share a lay the sandpaper-down flat,and tip. or haye a better way 01 rub the edge of the Plexiglas doing something in your over the sandpaper.) .hOI). send In your idea to Sanding leaves UH' edges Wood.thill,. Tips and Tech"cloudy." To get a clear edge. I niques. 2200 Croud Ave.. nes Momo.;, Iowa 50312. use a buffing wheel. But if you don't have a buffing wheel. use W~ will pa)' upon publleathe next best tbing lion S15 to SI00 (dependins: toothpaste. Toothpaste is a very Oil th e published ICI1Jllhofthe line abrasive and works the lipl. Plea.!.' include all exsame way on Plexiglas as it does planation and a sketch or photo (we11draw a new one). On your teeth. To use toothpaste, put a small
.Aiter
cutting the Plexiglas windscreen on my Classic Roadster (shown in ~VootlRmitl' No. 5]). J sun had to get the edges smooth and clear. To do this. I used three steps, First. to remove the bum; along
Wood&nllth
5
FEATURE
PROJECT
Highchair How do you make a highchair chac' s easy coassemble today, and easy to disassemble tommorow? Use mortise and sj)line joints to join the legs, and hold the j)arts together with knock,down ConfitTnaL screws.
I
\'t' always had a f.......complaints about
metal and plasuc hiSlhchairs. First. many of them are wobbly and poorly constructed. Second, once the child h,." outgrown the need for a tray. the hight'hair is no longer ut;C[ul.And finally.they're dimeul! to store. VHRSATtLJ.: To extend II... usable life of this highchair. I buill it so it could also be used as a "youth chair." With the tray removed. the child can climb up the two front stepsandmtotheseat. Thenthe chair can be pushed up to the table. KM)CK·DOWN FASTh\EAS. To overcome {he problem of storaae, I assembled it with knock-down Confonnnt fn~{"ners. This .1· low. the entire chair lu be disassembled. Then it can be stored (or shipped to a (riend or relative) and rea ssembled in minutes, 1F.CIL'1QllES.ilesidt"l bt~ngpractical and functional. there's another reason I liked building this project. l got {O do some prob1,·m..,.,lving",ith acouple o( n.·w techniques. One problem involved cutting a recess in the tray. Any lime you use two differenl router bits to make a recess, it's difficult to I(t'llh,-m to cut ttt exacuy the same depth, I ,0lvc<1theproblem by mnkinglhe perimeter of the tray recess slighUy deeper than the center section. This solves the depth problem and give; the tray. "milk moat"forextra protection again" ,pill"
"'ii'
Another problem joining the angled rails to the legs of the hiJlhchnir. The solulI"n was a mortise and spllne joint. It's~implc to make. especially If YOII lise the Mortising Table shown on pages 12 and 13. MATElUALSAND tlNISII. Ibuilt the highchair out of :V.·-thick hanl maple. II'.very light grained (not\lllint,,,,,) and willtake a 101 01abuse (holdsupwdl toteething), Then lor added protecuon and dumbility I applied three COOlSof polyuTCthanp. ItARflWAAE.Fill:L1ly.a word about the troy hnrdware and the saf~ty straps. I used a tray catch Ihal allows Ih" tra>'to lift off (or deaningor bang 10one side !SO the kids can ea:.ily be put in or taken OUI. 1also added a nylon safely strap 10 hold them in once you 6naJly manage 10gel them Into thechair, (Bolh thl; hardware and the ,Mely 'trap are available through ~Voodg,,,,tJ, l>rojl'C1Supplies. set' page 31. You supply Ilw kid.)
6
WOO<.bmith
No. 67
EXPLODED VIEW ,"lADIUS ON
TRAY
TRAY RECESSTEMPLATE
'
.... -@
H
'-® SEAT
UPPER STEP
RAIL
'I .,.' 1\ /
...
UPPER RAIL
BACK
_
TOP COItN£RS
SPUNE
'."x
I~·x 1~"
c
-4
LOWER STEP
...I. Ir.
I.'
'\,
''''
ORiU. l'
LOWER RAIL
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CORNEl
-
LEG
-"' 1
j_.~.--------------------~ ;-------"",,-------' SPLINE DEtAIL
\
CONIIRMAT
1·~DIU$ON
scuw
aO'nOM CORNERS'---
CONNECtOR DEtAIL
EDGING DEtAIL
40mm
I" RADIUS ON CORNERS
-I..,/",/-_
'f.. • -r
-
._. -t
@ 2'.'1"
MAtERIALS WOOD A Upper llo~S(2) 8 Seal RoilS (2) C lpv/er IlOlI.(2)
No,67
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AND SUPPLIES :VA x
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t," ROUND-OVlI
elT
CUnlNG
DIAGRAM
SUPPUES
PARTS
'1'. x 2'n x 7'Ia
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2111x 61\tr6 :VA X2", x 13¥a o legs (4) 'lI..X 2~ x 32' E Upper Step (1) :VA X3~ x 16 F lowe,Slep(l) ~'X3'I'lX 171~ G seot(l) '!-.x IOhx 16' H Bock(!) :VAX 12b' X IS' I Troy(1) ",.xI4'x21'I,I' , The se are dmen5
,aug"
....
T
.~
IUUNOSl_
_SCREW
LIO
I
l' 'a"
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>:~. PILOT HOLE
!
COHFIRMAT
@
• II Board Feet ",,',Ihick hard mople
• ~."thlC:kMosonlte IQrsplines • (lo)Conflrmorsclem • (2) H'A'fhwoodscrem
'6.
• ~ Plnl at ootln POlYurethane • For mora Inlormollon on Ihe swlve, trcv hardwore ond Ihe sorerv strop. see Sources on
page 31
Wooosm;rh
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LEG RAILS IVhile the angled legs on this highchair make it very sta ble, angles can be confusing to werkwith. To lessen the confusion, I worked with only one angled part of the highchair at a lime. I found it easiest to start with the leg rails first. Cl1I1lNG TIIERAlJ.S. To make the six rails, startbyculling:Y4"-thickstockforth~upper
1
I®
i'"l
~
MmR
2
3
NOn:: MAKf
F1RST
-lACHfND
1,.
.11_j_
":::\
NOn:: ALl$TOCK
~.-·THICK
0
~'~'
~
'I
.5CRlW
0
AUXlUARY '[NCE TO MITI~GAUGf
srr MJ1tJl GAUOt TO r
0' MOIlTLSE
-L~~ ' I.'
__
-r -1_,-
-~
STOP
MARK l()Cj\TION
__
CUlWlntOUT SlOP &lOCK
AT7'
1--7
justable mangle from an art supply store to set the miter gauge 00 the table saw. MORTISE LOCATION.TIle ralls arejoined to the legs with a mortise and spline joint. So the next step is to lay outlhe position ofthe mortises on the en~s of the rails. (For a complete article on mortise and spline join' cry, see page 14.) The mortises are centered on the thickness of each rail. But for now just mark a pencil line l'.!' in from Ole top and bottom edges on both ends of eacb rail, see Fig. 3. The actual mortises will be cut later.
,...-
=="~.
LEG RAILS
(A), seat (B), and tower mils (C) to a finished width of2\.'l'. see fig. I. Once tile stock has been cut to width, tile next step is to cui each pair of rails 10their finisbed lengtl~Hcre's where you're faced with the first angles toeut. First. cut a 7' anglo off one end of all the rails. Then to keep each pairclrallsthesame h",l!I.h, I screwed an auxDiary fence on my miter gauge and used astepblock 10trim the other ends 10length, see Fig. 2. Shop Note: It's important that the angles be exactly T, SO I bought a draftsman's ad-
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UNlS90'
rolMlSOFltMS
)
a. I
L 1,2"
--.--
--
I
LEGS
t: 't1 ~
.'.
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~
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After r finished cutLillg the rails and marking the mortise locations, I started working on the highchair's lep (D). CUT Tn E t.EGS.
Since all four legs (1» are the same size, I slJIrted by cutting :Y~"·thickstock imo four manageble blanks. Each blank is ripped to a finished width of2~" and cut.to a rough length of33". Then.the legs (0) arecuuo their finished length Of31"bymitering the top and bottom end of each leg at 7', see F'1g. 4. DADOES. Once .11 four legs are cut to length. the back legs are complete and can be temporarily set aside. But the front legs still need 'lt4"·widedadoescul on their ilUlidc faces to accept the two trontsteps, Since the legsangle frcnuo backcncl side-to-side.you have to cut the dadoes at a compound angle to keel>the steps parallel 10the floor. SETTI1E BlADE. To cut the dadoes for the steps. start by tilting the dado blade to 7' and setting the miter gauge at 'r.Theo, using a rest piece, adjuslthe depth of cut until the s}wUo"'I'$1part of the dado b '4" deep, see
'"
Fig.Sa.
Here's where things can get a lit~e confusing. 111e front l..;\Y OUT Tltt:: OADOES.
8
legs have to be a ",i>'l'om set, 'This means they have 10be clll on theillsidefaceor each leg so they're parallelto the bottom oHl1elcg alul the shallow part of the dado is nearest the bottom of the leg. refer 10 Fig. 6, DADOnt£ LEGS.To do this, I marked the POSitionof both dadoes 011 each leg. Then I
attached an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge so it would support the upper end or the leg while cutting Ute dadoes. see Fig. 5. Cut two dadoes paraUelto each other ill oneofthc(rontlegs (D).Then tum therniter gauge to 7' in the O'pposi/.,dircclion.and CUt matching dadoes in the other leg.
Mno 10TH ENDS ""
4
OF-ifG AT 7' .,........, I
I.," -. ".",..~ ,
!..»
"
, Gc::J
LEG (4 PItaS,
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':
.tI -f;::~-'~ TI,
"
lli,
cer OADOtS iN ONt LlO, l'HfN CUT DADOES IN O~lR UCJ AT 7· iN
6
OPPOsm DIRECTION
~n:: cur~'&"
UGSONlY IN"ONT (5(1"0. 61
""'\ lOTTOM
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CUT OAOOts
ON lNSIDE-
0' fRONT lIGS ONLY
No. 67
LEG FRAME ASSEMBLY TIle next step is to detcrmincthe locations of position the lower rail (C). I placed a 2W'· the mortises on the edges of the legs. The wide spacer along the straightedge. and problem is If) make sure these mortises will pushed the lower rail against this spacer. align with the rnortises on the ralls (A. B. C). Atlhc top end. position the upper rail (A) OR" ASSEMRI.Y. To do this, I dry asbetween the legs so it's flush with the ends of sembled the legs and runs 10 form two leg the legs, Now clamp these two rails in place. frames. Ttl keep the bottom ends of'the legs The seat rail (B) is positioned by sliding it flush. push them against a stralghtedge between the legs untll it's snug. see "Ill. 7. damped 10 the bench. sec Fig. 7. Then. 10 MORnSE LOCATIONS. With all three mil"
between the legs. transfer the locations of the mortises (rom theendsofthe mils to the [ace of the le.<,,,,.see Fig. 7a, ASSE~tBLE ntA.MES. Now CUI 3t4"-deep mortises in the edge 01 the lew>and in the ends of the rails. see Fig. 8.0 used the Mortising Table ShOW'lOIl pages 12 and 13.) Thencutsplincs to fillllC mortises (seepage 15) :UIIIglue the legs and rails together,
FLUSH TOP
1
WITH top Of l(G$
r
C(N11a All. MOlt'T1.SES ON THK:KN[SSQf
STOCK AND
BlTWt(N
MARKS
CONNECTORS After tlw leg frames
for the back. This hole is located near 0,,· top Ihf'l' fasteners to work, (jv~ slig'ttly oversized end ofU,e bark legs only. see Fig 11 rounded the comers shank holes have to be drilled into each leg HOLESFORSTEPS.There are two shank of the leg. to a 1" frame. see Fig. 9. holes to drill in the front legs to attach the radius, refer to ExTo locate the two holes in the seat rail (B), steps. To locate these holes, extend a line ploded View. page 7. start by laying out a line centered on the Irotn the topcdgeofeachdado around tothe The leg frames are width of the rail. see Pig. Ill. Along this cen- outside face ofthe leg (0), see Fig. 12.Then joined 10 the other terline. mark point, al each end I" in from measure down:va" from thls line and drill a parts of the high- where the centerline meets Ihe joint be- shank hole centered on the .. idth of'the leg. chair with Confirmat screws. These arc tween the seal rail and the leg. Then drill see Fig. 12. deep-threaded screws with all untapered ~"·dia. holes arthese points, see till'. 10. COtINT'ERSINK. Afle,·all five shank holes root that allows the join' to be easily put toNler the holes In Il,e seat rail have been life drilled in boll' leg frames, countersink gether and taken apart. drilled. locate and drill a shank hole to attach each hole Vul' deep. see Fig. IS. WPI""P
assembled. I
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9
STEPS, SEAT, AND BACK After building th e leg frames. the next .t~l) is to make the upPtr and lower
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17
7' IlVlL ON 10TH INDS Of! StAT
,tell' {E, F}, seat (G), and back (H). ~'TEPS.First. rip
the -ieps to a width of 31'.:", sec Fig. 14b. '111<'ncui the upper step (E) to a length of 16" nnd the lower step (1') to a length of 171/11".I chamfered off the sharp comers at both ends Qf the SIC"", >;('(' ~ig.I>lb. SEAr.Next. Iglued upa hlank for the seat (C) In order to cut Uti, blank to (E,~) in place between tho leg frames. (Since th~ top-rep isshorter thnn the boUom 011<'. the frames will be angled aL1'.) Now trim one end of the seat blank at T.see Fig. 1.ln Before trimming tlw other end, I ripped twocleats 1J!i"·wideand temperarilyclarnped them Ilushwith the bouom of the seat mils . ..... Figs. 15and 16.This pesttions the seat 'WI h's cemered on Ih~....at nib (B). Now graduallytrim offthcothcrend ofthe >;('01at T until the seat flrs between the lell Immes when restinll Oil top of the cleats. rtl.ar noLES. IVhell lite seat 6ts between the I(·g frames. center It front to back and damp it in position Tht'n drill 7r.n" pilol hQI., lor the Confinnal..,n'Yi'S into the end, of !he seal using the hoi," in !he searralls as aguide._Fig.16. \Vhile the drill" set up. dn'll pilot hole>; into the ends ofll.e stl'J)Sas well. ~lnally, I screwed the ConfirmaL screws through the leg Iramesand into thesieps (E, I') and the seal (G) TIlE1lACK.To mak.. the bock (H). sUtrtby Kluing up a l',··thick blank. see fig. 17 Then bevel the bouomedgcat?' .Totrlm tho ,ides 10 61 between the k-g frames, set the mil,'I'gaugeat T.CUIoU("'rul first. and then
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i sneak up on the other end until it fits, Now layoul the arcs (or thr hllnd hole and al"O at the top and bOUC)IIl ends ()f the back. sec Fig. 17. (A pattern for Inyingoul the arcs is available. see pagt' 31.) The back can bemounted between !hcit'll frames by drilling pilot holl'S for the Confir· mal screws. see rig. IS. Then fasten the bot-
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steps. see Edging Detail on pagc 7.
18
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No. 67
r
TRAY The 13$1 Lhing II)
build is the lTHy(I). However, the procedure {or making the tray is tile opposite of what you mighl
19
ROVfER
a.
SUPPORT PIE(!
TRIM 11,,'" Of'--SUPPORT PIKE
expect - I started by routing the recess. then Icut out
lbe tray. This way you don 'I have to center the recess on an irregular-shaped piece. TI;'lIPl,ATF..To rout the recess, I made a template by laying out the shape on a piece of 1-'1" plywood. (See pattern on page 7.) Cut out the center of the template with a sabre saw and sand the edges smooth, Also, keep the piece from the center. II's used 10 SUI>' port dIe router. sec Fig. 19. TKAYBlANK.After the template i"CUI,glue up. :V.'Ltllickblank for the tray.Then attach the template 10 the blank with double-sided carpel tape. see Fig. 19.
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NOTE: UNGTHOF
BUSHING NE[DS TO BE
1.($5 THAN THICKNESS OF TEMPLATE
.,
20 ROUT IN
To suppoJi the router while routing the perimeter groove. trim I~" off the outside edges of the cut-out center section, Then S<.'-
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cure iUo the cenrerofthe template'sopenlng with more carpel tape. (:lnI>t: HIlSHlNG. To rout the groove. mount a %" guide bushing along with a 1'1" core box bit in the router, see Fig. 19a. The g.,1idchushingrubs "!I.insl lh. "Oil''' of Ihl' template whlle the router bil (that filSinside the bushing) does the cutting. Note: If your bushing extends more than W' below the base ofthe router. youll have 10 lise thicker male rial for the template, FOU.()W1NG11IE TEMPlATE.
Now
you're
'no eORE.OX ROUTER III
DfRECTION
GUlD< BUSHING
OF ARROW I
~-Y
'l¥PLAft
KtlP IIUSH',..O nGKr AGAINST SlOt OF l(MPLATr
ROUTtR SUPPORT
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en
TRAY
a.
BLANK
REMOVE tRAY
21
TtMPlATt AND
ready 10 make the firstcul. Set the core box bit so il extends~" below the bottom of the tem1'/(I/e, see Fig. 20a. Make a plunge CUI. and then with the guide bushing rubbing against the trny template, roUl around the template moving in n clockwise direction.
ROurER SUPPO'"
see I~g.~O. ROIJ!'OIJ!'TRECTh'TER.After the perirneter groove ls routed, remove the template and the center support piece. Then remove the guide bushing and replace Ihe core box bil with a straight bit. see Fig. 2lJ1. (lused 3 :V."straight bil.) Now to rout OUI the waste inside the perImeter of the groove, set the billO make a V."·decp CUI. Rout from side-to-side while supporting tbe rouleron the center (un-cut) portion of the recess. see Fig. 21. tlJ!'TO SHAPE. The last step is to CuI the trny to its finished shape. I used a compass. to scribe a border J" from the edge of the groove, see Fig. 22. Then cut along the scribed lin" with a saber saw. Complete the tray by rouling the same bullnose profile as 00 all the other piec.. s. see Fig. 2?...a. FINISH.All that's leit is 10 apply finish and mount thc tray 10)the Ictr.iwith special hardware, sec Sources, page 31.
No. 67
BLANK
REMOVE BUS'HING AND~UNr
a.
STRAHlHT BTl
22
USE COMPASS TO LAY OUT 1ft·WIDE: IOR-O(R '<,
a.
COMPASS POI.NT AT
fOOl Of RECESS
,
WArn
CUfTO UNf
THEN ROUT
SUUHOSE AROUHD
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SEt EOOING DfTAIL ON PAGE 7
Woodsmirn
II
I
SHOP PROJECT ~-----------------------------------~--------------------------;~
~()rtisitlg 1lalble T
1',,,
SIIOI' vAc.l(yuu'r(' using a shop-vat, cut a hoi...in one of Ihl' slde ~i('C('S (e) 10 accept the end orthe hose lfyou' n- nat going 10use a vacuum.lcawouuhccenterdivider sc you can clean oUIthe snwdust by hand, DAOOI;'<;, Alter Ih(' bll..: pieces are cui 10 'our miter gauge. (I used the min-r g3UIlf' (mm my table saw.) Then, rabbt·t the back rdllf' 10 act as a sa wdU'1 relid,,...., 1'-111.1 a, TOI'01'1;."";' Hnally.l'UI' I'-wide notch on the back edge of the 101'CA) 10provide an opening (or sawdust and chips 10 fall Ihroullh, -ee ~·ig.Ib. IlAl'K 1'11"',,-,_Now all thaI', lefl (0 make is the bock panel (E), 'The back panel proBASE FIlAMI vides II v,·rtlrnl surfnce 10 auach the router, To fllllk,' th,· bast frnme.start by cutting the and a f~nr",'()rtlll'wol'kpicc"I()ride ajlain.L lOp (A) lind bottom (8) 111.1.!"wide and 1'0 make till' bllck panel, fin;! CUIa piece I~'I'I" 101111out (.,=\11"plywood, see rlg,.L IOYl" wide and 1!;''}I.'' long OUIof :}!.j" ply, wood. Then cut n slol in tht> middle of the Aller clillinllllll' lOP and bottom, cut two ,ides (C) H'." wid~ by 11II.!" lang. Then I panel for the router bil To do this. drill twe added a center divider (D) 10 form an en- I "-diamclcr holes, 2" apart and complete the closed box -o I could use a shop-vac 10 re- slot by cUllinlCthe waste Oul between Ihe move rhi!". ",,,'I';g, I. hoi...., "!t' ~;JI,~,
"i' fIIonisinR I1lbk i. something b,,'n working on for some time. In fact. Ole fir.;lpr!ltotypc was built a year ago, Wrli. when 1)(01Cl'ady 1(,make the morfor till' lIillhch,II' lind the Armoire. I bh'w Ih,· tiusl "rr IIw ,lroLol)'J)(! UIIdROIserious about a morti~i,,)( t..1bk·, 11'.' 'r,\u.J-:. "The 111()rti~ingtable is basirally a plywood box with 3 high back panel. Then a rouu-r b mounted 10 the back so the router bil 'Iick.throullh 10cui a mortise. It's a ,impl,' ide" that solves the problems cften involved wilh cUlting mortises on a roun-r table or drill pn'~"First. the workpiece lays Rat. mull" than on edIle, Second. the mortise cran bt,cullofulldeplh in a series of p.1' -ees without 113\il1,J{ to change the position of tl bit. (For more (In how 10 use the table, se IXI!!l.,.\.I and 15,)
I".,,,
1
11>~"\IJ,l1IRFJ\IlU) "SERl'S. WillI the slot
<'OI11I)k''''d,the n~XISI~Pis to install four \/."
U). IIlrenclt-d I"""rb in Ih~ back panel (E), see Fill, 2a. Two ollhel
shank hole, inte th,' back panel (E) and sete" it to the ba,,', see FiR, , ROunR BASI PLAn After COlllpl..-lillllthe base frame. I made a new base plau-for Illy router This base plate provides a InriI('surface 10hold the route, 10 the tall vertical hack panel (E), (.'1rrl~) SII:r, To make Ih(' base plate (F). I staned with II V4"·thick piece ot Masonite and cut it TV.- wltl~and 11:V"'long.see fig. ,..... :1. (\Ve're "I,.) ufl"rinl{ n pre-cut Phenolic \ ptasuc baw plate Ihrough IVrj(~/,.",il"Project SuppU,·" ,,,. J)Uj(,. :11.)
Alkr th., b",<, plate is Cui 10 size, driJi a rh"-dia. hall' in th...",'m,'r (or the routerbil
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to finhrough. (Shop Note: The hole doesn't have to be ~rf("'tly round, so if you don't have 0 bolesawora IIll"Jlc drill bityou can cut It with nsabre saw.) Next, drill And countersink holes in this plat~ so you CWI auach h to your router, To lay OUI lhe hnks, remove the plastic base from your router and u.... il as a template. M()l·).'11r.;(; IIOLE. To mount the plate 10 the vertical back panel. first drill. V.".
, ,I
c· M.ASOHITQ
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the
$101
U'" headbohsandwash-
ers in'tead of Iltt·pl,,-,Iicknob, See Sources on page 31 tor men- on the plastic knobs. GUARD All Iltm ro·main. lei complete the jig b a guard.IJoIl'/Ip(It" tI'i~nlllll,1 off. It protects
wid.- b)' 7W ~,nll. (:>;ot'" If you can't find ~,'·thick 1'k·'il:LN. you can Rlue logether two pieces o( ~"·Iltick Pk·.xigla",) Then I sanded a W rudius on the two outside com,''''' and lightly ..amll'il the fronl edges, To mount lite Plexiglas 10 the uprighl" drillcounlc rsunk bolcsoo the bottom sid., ullh. pial" and screw the plate tel the block" s"I'Fig. 6.1.
yllur Ilng.'". and is needed to align the bellining anti ~nd of YOUfcul s, sec Fig. 7. IWRlta"". 'n, make lh. guard, cur two upriJ!h'" (G) from V,"·lhkk Masonile. and ItE-F'~H ..:Ntt I.INI·:S.\Vhcn tile ~":lrd is then cur a IIi'· wide slot in each uprighl (01' screwed log"llwr, posiuon II over the top of the:
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13
JOINERY
TECHNIQUE
-------11-.
Mortise & Spline T
YI)iC(lIlY,when I have 10 build. trume, the joinl I would choose fiNI is " mortise and tenon. Allhtlugh mortise and WIIOII joinl>l "0/(/'/ be used lor tlw Irllmt'" 011 both the High· chnir and Ih~ Anno ire shown in
round ilcasierlocul them on the MortlsinllTable shown on pages 12and 13. Wilh this table I can cuI cleun, accurate mortises and add II spline -1111 in a fraction 01 the lime II used [0 lake 1.0cui
this i~su('-I didn't. lnstead, I used a "hybrid" join I, " mnrti-e and ,p/i'lf, It consist' 01 !WI) mortises joinl?d by a connl'Clinl: pit'(:(' ealled a spline, ~ v drawIll${ at right.
11IE nrrs. The whole idea 01 Ih. Mortising Table is to cut mortises with a router that's mounted horizontally. To do this )'00 can U'" a reguJarSlr.tiglu bit (tikI: a lwo-Oule earbide-ti(JllCd sltaillhl bn), However. I would highly recommend using a spOa littl e cteaner than plywood and the edges ral end mill biL These bils are Specifically arc easier 10 round over, see Step 8 on the designed 10make plunge cuts and rout sideOPPOSilCpaRl'.(I use tempered Masonileto-side much easier than sLraighl bits. (For LIlt:kind Ihnl'~ smooth on both sides.) more lnfonnation on these bits, see Talking DOWELS, Wouldn't it be easier 10 drill ShOI), page 30,) holes and use dowels? STEP BY 5T.P I've never been very 10lldor dowels, First. it's diffi,'ulllO drill holes in opposing pieces One!' you hnvethe MorlisingTablc and the so Ilwy IIlign 1I,,·,.,'itltll/. And second. bits, It's a simple mauvr to cut U,C mortises. dowels don't provide as much glue surface Firs], udjus, Ih,' router so the bit is set to as" spline. see photo below the correct Iol;lIhl lor Ihe mortlses you want IJ'SCI'rrJOINFRS.\\'halaboulusingonc01 10 Cui. see S111l2. One reason this joim can the "new" biscuit joiners? be made so quickly, isthatthemortisesalign Bbcuil join.", work greal on some pro- automatically. Ju_' mark the face side 01 jects. Bul then"s Olle' big drawback. You both pieces and make sure the marked side can't uS(' them 10join a frame ifth" rails are laces "I' wh('I1culling bolh pieces. Then narrower than Il·,·- the biscuits are 100 durmg ."~mbly. keep the marked sides long 10 fit in Ihe end oithe rail facing the same direction. That', where a mortise and spline has a OEVnI OF'nrr, Ultr setting the height. definile advantagc over a biscuit joint You adjust the d('J)\h or CUI,see Stl'P 2. !'IOIe:The can make the mortise and the spline depth ot CUIis affected by bit length and lype whatever size you need. In addition, a 01router, S<~'Talking Shop. page 30, spline' glue surface is larger than that 01 a AIlJI ~""IIt\I{II, TIll' guard I. RI1important biscuit, sec the photos below. part ollllis MOl'tisinICTnbl~.II prmects your M(lImS~;ANI) SI'IJNF_ As you can prob- fingers,lUld III'ovid"$nreferencefor locating ably tell, I'm excited aboutthisjcint. Youcan the ends or Ilw mortis ..!, Adjustlhe guard so cut Ihe lllol1l~es on II drill pre:;s, bUI I've It's slighlly abovl'lhe workpif'cI!, see Slep 3,
\0\ \'T\(;r~. There
art> a couple 01 advantage» 10 u~ing this joinl instead 01 a mortise and tenon c'PC'CialJyon the two 11r0j('ct.~in this issue. First. since the (c:g$ on the Highchair are angled, an angled tenon would be required. This is 1101 only diffic"lIlo cut, bUI irs also dilficult to flt, Second, <'1ll1ingn tenon 011 the end 01 a InfRI' l,i"t'I' like the arched lOP rail 01 the Armoire i~ not only awkward, it can be danUl'rous on a lable saw, QI~~"'ONS. Okay, once I decided 10 use" mnrti,., and 'pli,1<' jolnt, there were some question« 10ask. How 13J'Reshould the mortise be? And whal', Ihe t>e,;1 material to use ror'illinl.". SlLEO~\IotmsE.Asa rule olthumb. mol" Ii""" arc usually one third the thickness of the
mortise and tenon joints,
MO.TISI AND SPUNE 0/ nil tilt jOllliA .hOl.m. lhis ~ tile >IIO!it Tili. 1'I'Inlil'~ly ''''III joi>ll to 1NU!1I nUlke, Tlw ('()>IIIcrti1/(1HII/ i1/(' oJti!illjoi II/ /)'I'Ouidea Inlllil,n r, J/m"'I'rr,nliym'I~'11can be,ljffi· blllll'~'qllirt'B (lip""It/ machille. And the a large g/ui,,{/ .ur/orf. Plus lhe trizcC(lltbe rll/I a 1111Ihr,.,." IItl'Y fittl. olue /fur/ace. 8i~reiflile bi~r"iI8 /illlil~ Ihl!ir Ulie. "(tried toft, malll/opll/icatiolts. DOWILS
14
BISCUIT JOINT
Woudsmlch
'0
No. 67
B Y
S T E P ."OR11S£.TIle last step before rnutmgis to USl'Q square to mark the limits ohlle mortise across the j(lintline. see Step 4. DIRP.cnONOFFE!'J'. Before you start cutling mortises there are n few IhinJr.' 10keep in mind.The Iirst thing yeu have to bC3WllJ'C MARK
STEP
the left side, and I naturally fed left to right. ·IWOTEc\I~~QUES. Bask-ally. then! aretwo techniques for CUllingmortises on the Mol" tising Table - one Cormaking mortise. on the ,'lid of a piece. and another for mortising the edge of a piece.
ENO ~10RT1SES. To CUl f~/ldmortises, I U~ ofls I hedlrectionoffeed,J3,'CaUSC therouter is mounted horizoutally, the stock must be a miter gauge to support the workpiece. see fed from lert to right This is opposilRthe Stei 5. Finn, make full-depth plunge CUISto direction you reed on a router table. locale the ends of the mortise, To waste Out This is a little awkward to lIel used to ;It the center, make several Hllalln ... passes, first. It helped me to mount the MortiSing moving Uteworkpiece from I~fi to right Into Tablealthe{~jl end Ofthe bench. see Step I. the bit. see-Step 6.
This way I worked in front of the table or on
EDGE MORTlSl!S.
To cut mortises on the
ClAMP MORtiSING TOlltKH
'Of' Spirul end mill bits u'
,",,/1.,1 2 1 To Ita"f sul» oJ t/,p1(/ 1110/1'£1711 I/w llit .11(1I1i"i"U
of the mortise, see Step 8. Then cut the splines to length so they're 1,1," shorter than the combined depth of the mortises. To glue up the joint, "butter" the inside or the mortises with a small artist's brush. Then, apply a thin film of glue to the spline. That's all there is 10 lr.a stronll, simple joint with a minimum of fuss.
uxuu, TJ',4'n.adjflld tllf! router lip ur dotow
tlte Ple;x;iglu~ 3 Ii/itl. ~oit'•• lightly (.aoll' tit. piece.0111180 1/18sCI'ilH!d llne« tile pia.tf
unlil th,' bit i.aLiitermTect/uJiU/It.
are di reel tv (IbOll<)1/16TO" ter bit •
aC(I!'lH
(fi'fd) T
tween each pass.see Step 7. SPUNES.AlIthat's left is to rip the material (or the splines \.\!" narrower Ulan the length
IJIC~ PANn _J
TABlf S[CUR[LY
r
edge of a workpiece. J make a series of shallow cuts (left to right) between the layout lines. pulling Ihe piece away from the bit be-
Itt)ie cut ilf
tt,« sid«.
(I) I,md
lice lI.f dl"lltil "Ie lit YIJII
Tiglttl'" dOl/III
fllla,,{ I!'ork·
j>l
'IRSD cur FUll. DfPIlI
OIV A$SEMel.( ANDMAJlK MORli51-I.OCAnON ON 60TH PltcES
itT UOININQ ANt»
lHDOf_
O"ide Ottt'ge. To complete the wuwtise. make To 11/(1,1<1/,. limi4roJbotl! 1/10,1;.,.., 6 4 5 I,old II,. plC~e$in Ih.i'·.{inal porilion (Ife"d ofu>O'I'lipiecci.(loI'gled. allg/e (al dgM a 'Wi" to raeh oilier), miter ua"9~.) Then make two j"ll-
~O:l!cr(tl Sll
and dml('
(I
lilies /f('/'Q.", ',ol/,/,,"t4<.
MAKf sE'VEllAL SHAlLOW PASSES
II,. wl)'rk"icCf (lWIIYilr.tllif.ell
II/ '
})«"8r8.
' .."uss
THAN UNGTH OF MORnSE I
(-..
I
.OUND
ovrR_lS,
<,
,.
1lfiN CUT TOL(NGTH
l.," USS THAN COMatNIiD oCPTHOf MOAnsts
ADJUST pt((u UNttlTHFMtf'lUSH, THENnOHlIN ClAMP
~plill'm~lRl'illl into #rip. 'I.' 11'''.11 cllft'"on. ",urti"IJ/f.lh~edyvaf 9 Fillolly, a,'pllltne 7 left 1/",,, lrllutll (>f JIlO'·/i1
II
/'Y/')I
011{lllllrd
$((111mId 8(011Oll the IIIy""I/i,,
...
I"". thu
tiStfSQlld(ill
I/S"
If
cvmbilfed depth
I)Jm/)di.se.~.
Woodsmith
ylllt
int» boOt
11101'-
8plill~. Be/o''i'clu'tJlp'-'
'It1'C (h~ I'd"e.
alld/aces
0/lheadjoi1lflto pirces 0.1'<' fllI"iI.
15
OUR
=-5...:O::......:..:.M.:.._..=E_T.:..___:I_:P:........=_S_ F ROM
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S II 0
P
Shop Notes BURNISHING A MITER .As I was buildillJ! the Armoire,
I ran into" problem III one corner o( II\(' base - Ih~ miter joinl had nslighl gap!n h. Should ! Rlnrl over and cut ncwpiecesio make ilperlecl?Or 1~lht..re an ea~,'way to fix it? There'< a nl'al !illl~ trick (or closing outside miters that's
1
used on base moldings In houses. You jusl "bun1lsh" Ilw
are pushed LOgcUter.they usually Slay that way. corners 1Cl close lilt· gnp. III1HNISHlNC. To bumish Ille \Vb"n the gap on nn outsid., miter on Ihe base.Iusedascrewmiter is V't6'" or less you Carl roll driver. (A nail SCI wilh a tapetl~1 both sides "flhe joinl Over 10fill point works better on intricate the gap. \Vhat YOII'n- really molding •. ) Hold the screwdoing is crushing II", wood driver at avery slight angle 10the fibers slightly. One... Ih.· flbers workpiece. see Fix. Ia. Then press down hard to BE FOR E: Afl" a••• llibll/. bend the fiber, lUI"IC·/./IIt'Jc thrre''K a slight gap slighll)' as you clllJf~ f"(tlt;M(OMlt'"oJ~amiler. stroke down the
a.
,I WIll I ""., CIIU'H'0
PR(55 HAlO ANDMAKl ONE SMOOtH
I~
ClOSI GAP
joinL
\\'on'l this leave 3 rounded corner? Yes. but that's okay
in
mOtel DOWN
010St
situations.
corn e" u$ually end "I) slighlly rounded after they're sanded. Mitered
EACH 'Act
HOLO SC.lWOItIV'1t "fSUOH'
And. a sharp corner
on 3 base is the fi.-.t
AHOUlO
partthargetsdinged up anyway.
WORKPIICI
AFTf:R: To rlo,,'III~ (laP,bUT"i,I, 0011,/(IC" tosiighlly mal!
tlu1ilH.,-, ''''Jdh.-r,
RUB ARM FOR RAISED PANELS • Bow do you cut the profile on an arelu d rai....'CI p.1n(']~Usually it's done with .hapl'r CUtI~'" or expensive ($75 and UI» raised panel router bit s, These bits have bearings that (allow the 'hape o( the arch 10mnintaln a couslstent width nn thc bevel, IIUWI'Vt'r, on the Armoire I tried a fl'" ,·.pensive bit (IInder $25) 10CUItilt' (,.Ii",d panel, sec
page 31 It cui, a bl-vd wi!h " shoulder, bUI it dOl'Sn'l have a
positioned over the top o( th... line on lOP of Ihe rub arm. see raised panel bit, see Fig. I. ~lg,l. Theil, 10maintain a coobearing. To make the nib ann. CUI a sist<'11 width on Ole profile. move Tousethis bit, YOIIh8\'('IOu8<' point on 00(' end o( a piece of I,f," illC wurkpit'Ce so the edge is pera fence or a nib ann. For Ihe plywood or Masonite, Theil pendieular 10 thnl line, sec FIg. 2.
,;traigbl5eCl;ons of Ihe panels. I screw this ann 10a cleat, Now used the routertable renee, rdcr clamp the cleat to your router to Fig, 25, pa!:c 25. table [once so the arm sits Just RU81-\N~t.But you can't lise a above the bil. see Fig. lao straijehl fence (or the arched lOP USISC 111£ ARM. To roul thl' edge, So hen: l added n rub arm beveled edge. draw a reference
1
O.
,-_
I ....THl(IC.
AIlM,.
..ANnan
16
._1It IWSID
., series or pnsses, moving the
point o( thr ann away (rom the bit slislhtly between passes until you reach the widlh you wanl (or the bevded edge,
-
I
...... N01II __
I
R,.IUO
2
Cut the rnlsed panel profile ill
ClAMP CllAtf TO ROIITI1t 1AllUFtNa
ItAlStD
CUM Of lit
PANEL
W oodsmirh
No. 67
FLOATING PANELS • When nasl'mbling a solid wood panel Into " frame, the panel must bt' fre" toexpand and COlIIl'8cl with ,.asonal changes In humidity. That's why you shouldn't IIlue a solid wood panel inlo the groovcsofa frame. Okay, bUIuthe panel isfrec LO move around, what keeps il centered in the Irame? The
1
HAILOHlY Al
(tH'TD Of
'ANn
weight of the panel will pull It down, and lfit's toose.lt can shift to the right or len. Ph'! IN PI.ACF.. One solution is to turn the frame ov~r and pin the panel with brads, see FIg. I. Before nailinJl, check that the panel is centered in the (rame. After the panel iscentered, drive a "ingl. brad centered anne top
a.
m '.N'SHINO
,
MIl.
. . • PANIl. MU5TI.
panel is "'OUR: within the frame. see fiR 2a
2
a, snLl .......
,.._
.riJ ~
Aill TO VtPANO AND CONTUCT
WORKING
up layers in the slots until the
,.u.
, Il:romJ
centered, and when the panel expands, Ow rnam compresses, I've (ound foam weatherstripIl"'ll tape with an adhesive back works gre.t. II's available at hardware stores in 1,1." widths (perfect (or the 1,1.' slots). Build
- I-.AO AND HOU
I
..C
and bottom of each panel. The brud should 110 through the tongue and inLOthe rail, see rill. ta, By using one brad Ihe panel can expand/contract in both directions (rom the center. FOAllI TAPE. A second method is 10 use foam rubber in the slots. see Filt. 2. Pullins: foam on all four sides keeps the panel
IUJlD UP LAYfRS OF 'OAM
(_ lRAD SHOUI.O GO - tHROUOH TONOUE AND INtO 'RAM'
TO HOLD PANEL
ClHTIRID IN FlAMS:
.:»
WITH WARP
• I'm o(\l>n asked where I find DOOR smzs, Whenil'" tim" 1 perleclly qraighl. fiat wood (or LOselect the wood (or the door use in projecls. The answe r is .tile. (especially the inside simple - I don't Since wood stiles. part. AA), .iaht down the NOTE: comes (rom trees and trees coo- length o( each piece and look for tain water, all wood will have a any bow (warp). There" sure to IXAOO'... no 'OIIcumY tendency 10 warp as it takes on or be a liule bit over 51'! feet. lets out moisture. Now, position tbe slil,' SO the The trick is being aware of the high peint O( the bow will (act' warp and u.lng it &0 It doesn't out (away trom the cabinet), Sl'e 'AC' ,OW ON seriously ef(L'C1 the appearance Fig. 1. Then, when the door i~ OOOR STIll OUT closed, Ihe lOp nnd bottom will or (unction ef the project. \ ARMOI Kh IIOORS. Slightly touch the cabinet (acinll fil"ll."O warped pieces can work 10 your pull the bowed cenu-r olthe door advantage. Take, for example, in tighl, l located the door catch the lall doors on the Armoire on the cabinet ncar the center of CATCH PUUS 000. tH T1GHT (shown on pag,'18). the door's heigh], A'ctNTU When I buill th~ Armoire I CIA'U'ING WARI'. Another exselected all the wood for the ample where I usc 3 warped doors fiN. Co1)throullh thewood board to m)' advantage is whcn pile and
2 ~
w,...
No. 67
Wooosmith
'A('INO !'t'C(5
SHOULD 'OW IN
.. C(NT•• Of
.ACINOWlU 'IT TIGHT
TOC.I.NO
ClAMI"_ DOWNn'>I"
...... I
~
17
HEIRLOOM
PRO
ECT
Armoire The graceful arched cop and the raised-panel doors of this cherry armoire make it a classIc, It's sure to become a family heirloom to be handed down iroln generation to generation,
T
his <"h~nyarmoire i, one of the lar!!est "rojl"'" we've ever fc 3Itlrf:<1 in \\ 'oodsn: ith, But it'~nell thv size, it's Ihl' details tluu really make lt intercsllnj(, ,\KCUEI)TOI',Tlu- m"sl striking realurt is the arched crown ",okliull on Ih., lap of the cabinet-a dctailthal looks very difJkllh 10build, 110you have 10 1"'0(1<.,,,, the molding? 1>0you I",,," 10 U'" a ,haPt'r whh • hllK' cutter 10,hape the muldin.!? Actually it'<,.."i,·r than itlooks, It's all done b)' building up and ,Ilaping pj''''''S ul :v~·-thlck'\lock with Ih, t
helpof a template.n rouh'r. and two common bits, Since this is • technique thaI can be used on olh"r projectsaswvll (lik,·grandlnlhcrc]ocks). wv decided to
,,(h. own, " ... pages 2610 2''), RAtSlillI'i\Nl't.~,'l1l1·other big ch.llcnge was m:tkinll the arched-ton dual", On the flrst version of lhi~ nrmolrc.I used \I...-thick clll'nyplywood for the panels in 'he doors, BUIitlook.'r( 100 lint. "'hat I rcallywanh'd \\a< th••trndilionallookof rai"-~I panels made from solid stock - a 101more work. bUI tho>< panel-, -.ute ruake th.: doers look gn-al. Okay. bul how doy ..u CUIthe hewl on tbt'CI'I'\',"150,
give it an anicll'
SUPPLIES
----------------,
LUMBER • 21-:.Sheet$ .' Ittlc:k cherry plYwood • I Sheet 'hick cheuy plywood • 59 5 BoOtd Joel ~.' 1"'Ck IOIId che
HARDWARE AND FINISH (see IJOge 31 '0( inlon"1Qtlon obout llOrCIwo'o • (3) PQ.r~' oroo5 oIfsel hi'IgeS
kif )
• (7) Bross.n0b5 wit" dOCOtotIV" t><= bock pIol ... • (2) B
COIcr>es
• Shott WPOO1>011) • (2Qvorn)lunllol
18
WO<1
No,67
•
MATERIALS
EXPLODED VIEW OVERAll DIMENSIONS: 84" H x S l'/t2.·'W x 22'1 0
v
J
-r
I
CASE A SIdes(2) B OMder(l) C TOp(l) o Bollom(l) E Bock(l) F 51119.(2) G BotiomRoII(I) H A,ch(!dTopRo 1(1) I DividerCop (I)
'II. ply x 19w~ 73 'II. plyx 19y.·67,>. .,.plyx"b'~·19 ,¥.plyx~~-19',. V.plyxd7-73 ¥4x3- 14rgh. .,.x4'n~dll,.:,
~.x13'''''gn 4111.1
'¥,x 11I.-69rg" J Ogee Fn.MOld. (I) .y. x 2% . 49
\
K Ogee SideMold (2) .y. x~. -2GIt. l Cove Frt Mold, (I) % x% - SOIt.
, ,@
M CoveSideMold.(2l %lC% 21'1$ \
i
BASE N Bullnose Fronl (1)
'1'. X2",. - 51'12 o BuIInoseSdes(2) '111 x 2¥. 22 P KlCkbOOrdfr./8lc.(2) '1'. x 4V. 50',0: Q 1
R Bock RIlElIStrip (1)
cv •
" I
.,.It 41t. 21'12 '114 X I 'I. ~
CROWN MOLDING
.'\ I
S T U V
Bose(Fro'll) (I) Bose(SlcIe$)(2)
Trlm(Fronl)(ll Trim(Sldes)(2)
'1'. x 31(.- 51\<2,gh. :V4x3Y.-22rgh ¥4X IIt.-51'~lgh . :)I. x 1'/.-22 rgh
SHELVESAND ROD W X Y Z
Shaives(n Sheil edging (7) Clomes Rod (1) RQdSupport$(2)
'II. ply X 18'12-22l1.! '1'. ply x 1 22'12 l' dowel x ~\.1! '\'4.2 -19
DOORS
AA I(\~de$jij9$ (2) It.x 3 - 68~ BB OUtside St~9$(2) x 3 ·64rgh CC Top (Arch) Rolls (2) :v.x3·lA'It
"A
(0)
00 EE FF GG
Middle Rolls(2) BotlomRolIs(2) Top Ponels.(2)
BoHomPonels(2)
'II. x4\<2· 14% '114x3·14% ¥AX 15V.-36rgh :V.x 15'/.-24¥e
CUnlNG DIAGRAM
\41 x 714 • 96 C4.'U.
I
'-t,!
H
GO
I",.~I1,.mJ
AlSO a£QUIRfDl 2Jtt SH10S{4' x "J Of~" PlYWOOD
1 SHErr(.' x "J Of 14.. PLYWOOD
No. 67
Woodsmith
19
Ibegan building the
armoire by cut ling
the parts for the case from :¥.." plywood. Plywood is stable and not as likely to warp as solid stock so it's a good choice for the large pieces, Start by making the two side pieces (A), see Fig. 1. Although the sides are iusuwc pieces of:V."plywood,eachside bas a dado to accept Ule bottom (0) and a rabbet to accept the lop (C) olthe cabinetand these dadoes and rabbets must be per. fectly aligned. 111etrick is to rout one dado anel one rabbet across a wide blank or ply· wood. 111encut the blank in half to get two identical side pieces. To make the sides (Al. 6rst cut a large blank to a finished length of 73" and rough width of 41", see the Plyw()od Cutting' Diagram in Pig. L OI\DO POR OOTl'OM.After cuuing the blank lu a finished length, I routed a dado across the blank 10 accept the bottom piece (D). see Fig. 2. To roul the dado. clamp a
straightedge fence across the blank SO a II." straight bit in the router will be postioned 4" up (rom the bottom end. see Fig. 1. AABUJrr "'OR TOP. After routing the dado. the next step is to rout a 114"-
1
PLYWOOD CUmNG DIAGRAM
Sn
culon the ends of the bottom piece). [n my cssc.Lcut.the divider (B) 67:jf." long. TOP AND IJOTTOM.The last pieces Of'll4" plywood to cut (or the case are the top (C) and bottom (D). see Fig. I. To determine the wi(llh of the top piece (C), measure the side pieces and subtract V'.!".1n my case this made the top piece 19" wide. The bottom piece (D) has a 114" tongue on the (ront edge 10 later accept a hardwood (adng rail. so I cut it V.I'·wider (19\(.1'')than the top piece. After the top and bottom pieces are CUI to width. cut both pieces to a uniform length 0!46W'. TONGUES. The final step before assembly is 10 CUlV.".thick tongues on the front edges of the side pieces lA). divider (8). and botlorn piece (0). see ~ig.4.These tongues are used to attach hardwood (acing. referto ~lg. 6. AI the same time. I also cut identical tongues on the end« o( the bottom piece (D) 10 fit into ihe dadoes in the side pieces (AJ. To make the tongues, rout V.1"·wide rabbets on the top and bottom edges with a router bit and edge guide. Increase the depth of cut until the tongue between the rabbets fits thedadoesin theside pieces (JI).
I [','
-j
IOl1OM
@
~
-
®
®
5'"
SIDE
~ ~ ~
,'il DrvfDER
67-l'.
'.-,,1,,· DADO
5.lWfoa _va
'IGURt3
,;;. ~
....®
2
'&\
,"y
3
~
SIDE
\:
13' .... DADO
st(
,
FIGURE2
SAVI_ SHIlVlS
@
..
TOP
®
@
BOTTOM
' uac
l\ •
.
® DMOIII
I>lVWOOO
~ ~
4
TONGUE DETAIL
~
It<
NOTE:
fIOUR£ 4
~
1\
20
Woodsonith
TONOU(
MUST,.IT GROOV£/ DADO
No. 67
CASE ASSEMBLY MeraU the tongues arc fonned, thccasecan be assembled. see rig. S, Sian by sian ding the divider (B) on its (TC)Ot edge (with the tongue (8cin~ down) nnd screwing it between the top (C) and the bottom (0). N~.~ add the side pieces W. Glue the tongue on the bottom (D) into the dado in ~,esides (A). see I-Ig. 5a. Then screw the side pieces into the top (Cl, (These screws will be covered later by a motding strip.) IlAC)( P&'
5
a.
OW£rONGut
ON8onOM INTO DADO IN SIDE
fACE
TONGUES DOWN
\
FACE FRAME
r
Now that the basic plywood case is assembled. the front edges can be trimmed with :Y.', Ihick hardwood race frame pieces, STItES. Start by ~ cuulng- two stiles (F) ton width of3'116"and L"long.rthon the side pieces (74"), (Nole:Aiter assembly, the stiles are trimmed flush with the side or Ute case and to length to (ollow the arch at the top, see Fig. 8.1,) Nex~cui a groove on the inside face of each stile to fit over the tongue on the side pieces W. sec Fig, 7. Pcsition the tongue 0/16" (rom the o"'";rlr~dgc o[th~ sule. (This leaves a 1116"overhang for trimming.) After cutting the grooves, Irouted a ¥.I", wide mortise centered on the IItsid,' edge of each stil. at the top, see Fig, 8, This mortise will accept a spline t(l Join the stile 10the end of the arched top rail Oil. (Note: I cut the mortiseswhh th~ Monising1'ableshown on
ones in thestiles.1ben brush glue into all the face of ~IC cap to 61 over the tongue On the mortises and fit the top rail between the divider (B), sec Fig. 7. stiles. Filially, slide splines into the mortises (rom the open lop end, see Figs. 6 and 8, Once the glue dries. extend the curve (rom the lop mil onto the stiles with a pencil, and then cut il with a sabre saw, see Fig, &,. l)MPER Ci\P. The 10$tfacing piece ls the dividercap (I). lt'scut to a width of 1V.I~and 10 length 10 fit tight between the top and bot10m rails. Thea cut a grC)ove on the inside
No,67
divider cap Is glued in place, you can trim the stiles (f') flush with the out.ide o[ the side pieces lA) and the bottom rail (C) flush WiU, the toll of the bottom piece (0), To do Ibis I used a router and flush trim bit. (Note: On the (01) o( the bottom rail, the router bit won't cut square all the wayinto the inside comers. So I had to clean these up with a chisel.)
$PRIAD GWl IN Mor:tnSl$. THEN POSfTION RAILS .rrw((N
6
STtLlS AND IN.sERT SPUNES
71 e
OVlRHANG
STILES
. ~ 1..-
10'0,'
I,'
..L
,....
.~
~
--
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1
3'.1'1.- -
(i) DIVIDER CAP
DMOla
LPfOMOtR
®
LI ~..A"
-.,
.'@1)(
Ilage~ 12to 15,)
Before you can glue the Stiles in place, there's one more little step. To make room for the stiles, you have to trim baok 2V." of the tongue on the from of the bouom piece (D).seel'ig.6. sorroa RAIL With the stiles glued in place, measure the distance between them 10 determine the length of the bottom rail (G). Then cutlhc bottom rail to this length and 4!YJ6"wide. at's trimmed 10 4lf.!"Iater.) Next. cuta groove 10fit over tile tongue on the bottom piece (0). (Ibis looks Just like the stile, see rig. 7.) Then glue the bottom rail in place. TO)' RAIl..The mosldifficullpicce to make is the arched top rail (11). It's cui (rom a 13lf.!"·wide edge-glued blank, Since the steps are (airly complex, it's all in a special article on pages 2610 27, Ailer!ho arched lop rail was cut to shape. I routed mortlses on both ends 10match the
'nu~1 FACIl'OGFLUSJI, ACterthe
tv
S
CtN'frR
GROOY( 1 ..")(1
1t,.";--
.....
r.~ " -", SPUN~ffi.' Trt;; Motmsn, ~" DEW
't
DIVIDER
CAP
. "'~
~'"
4
fOP ItAIL
r~
(0':,.... WIDE. IOnOM
@)
<, TOP ItAll.
I
®
GWESnU fWSHWJTH aOnOMfND
V
6~."
•..!I®
mil
CUT flUst-t WrJH It.AIL
,,
,, ,, ,
,,
I
7.....•
,
'-. snu
Of SIDEPIEef
SPUNf-
WocxJsmith
21
BASE After adding the face (22") than the depth of the plywood case. frame to the case, r Before gluing the bullnose pieces tobegan work on me gethcr, I drilled a series of countersunk base. The base is a screw holes through them. see Cross Seebullnose frame glued lion in Fig. 10. 111CSC screws are used to on top of a kickboard mount the bullnose frame down to the kickboard frame and up to the bottom of the ply. frame. see rill.9. TOP PRAME. To wood cabinet, see Fig. I Ia. make the bullnose Nnw glue the miters together to form me frame, rip afront (N) and two sides (0) to a three-sided frame. (Hold the pieces on a Ilat width of2¥4". see Fig. 9. Then rough cut the surface until the glue sets.) fronl53" long and the sides 23" long. IOCKHOARD:lbe rest of the base consists Before cutting the pieces to Jioallengtb. of a kiekboard front, back. and twosides, Rip rout • bullnose edge on the pieces. First. thesepieces to a width of 4~". see Fig. 9. rout a W' round-over on the top edge. see Then miter both ends of the kickboard Step 1 in Fig. 10. Then. to rout the bottom front and back (P) so the length of each edge, switch In a 'I," round-over. see Slep 2. piece is 1" shorter than the bullnose frame After me pieces are routed, miter both (:;Ql<'l'').Next. miter both ends ofeach kickends 01the front piece (N) 4" longer (51I<'i~ board side (Q) so Ihe length is 1-1!" shorter than the width of the plywood case. Then than the bullnose frame sides (21W). miter the front end of each side piece (0) KERf ANDSPUNE. To help keep the miters and cut the back end squareso it's2" longer aligned.cut.a kerf in each miter, see rill, 9a,
9
Thencut a splineto fit the kerfs. BASE ASSE~mI.Y. After the joints are CUL, glue the kickboard frame together. Then drill pilot holes for Ihe screws-and glue and screw the bullnose frame 10 the lOp of the kickboard lrame. sec FIg. 9. FlUl>RSTRIP. One flnalstepcnthe base is to CUl• filler strip (R) lO fit on top of the kickbnard back. see Fig. 9b. Before gluing thefiller strip in place. cut arabberalong the lOP edge of the strip to accept the cabinet back.refer to Hg. 12. 8i\SE TO CASE.After the base is complete, itcan be attached lOthe case. see Fig, I L To do this. I laid the case down on us back. Nowcenterthe base on thecaseand align both sections flush across the back, see Fig.
12.When they're in positicn. drill pilolholes through the shank holes in the bullnose frameand into the bottom of the case, see
Fig. Ua. 111"[\ screw the sections together and the back 10 the Iiller strip. see Fig. 12.
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While the case was still laying on its back. I added molding around the base.
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the front comers of the cabiaet starting and stoppingaboutS"from the crown moldingat the top and theogeemolding atthe base.see Figs. 13and 13c.
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Firsi, I cut enough 2-'i1l"·wide molding . , to fitaround tile front and sides of the cabi~ net.Then routa Roman ogee on the lOPedge of each piece, Miter. front piece (J) to at across tile front of the cabinet and screw it in place from behind. see Fig. l3d. Now. miter the front ends of the side pieces (K). and then CUI all the back ends Bush with tile back of the case. Screw these pieces in place as well. see Fig. 13. COl'!!MOWtl'OG.Next.I added cove molding (L.M) in front o( the ogee molding. To make these strips. raul a I'z" cove on the edges of a ll'.!"·widestrip OfW,Ulick stock. Then trim the W·widc molding off the outside edges. Now miter the molding to fil around the case and glue lhe strips in place. CROWN MOl.OING. After gluing the molding around tlle base. I started work on the crOWD molding at the top. The crown molding is made from two pieces of :v.,"·thick
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'1110front arch strips (base piece Sand trim piece U) are both cui from ~ 12"-wide blank. (For more on this, see pages 28 and 29.) Aftermiloring the arched front molding to fil the cabinet. Iscrewed ilto the front of the lop ra1I (Ii). see Flg. 13a. The straight side molding strips (T.V) have the same profiles as the arched front strips. After the pieces are glued together, miter the !ront ends and cut U,eback cod off square with the back of the cabinet. see Fig.
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SHELVES After all 011,molding> were attached. J made the~1I plywoodshelvc$ C'V).see Fig. 14. CUTlO SIZE. To determine the size of the shelves, measure the inside of the case. To allow for edging, J CUIthe shelves to width 1-2" less than the depth of my case. Then CUI the shelves W less than the distance between the divider and the cabinet side. TONGUES.Mtcrcuttioglhesltelvesiosize. the next step is 10rout tongues on the from for the edj,~ng strips. see F~. L,1.(For more on ~'!W, No, 62.) EDGING. Now cui the J"wide shelf oog. ing (X) from !V1"-thickstock. Next cut <)ffcenter grooves In each Slril) to Iit over the tongues on the shelves. And then glue the edging;n place. SlIt'I'OAT ROL£S. To hold the shelves, 1 used brass !lin supports. Orillll," holes (or pin supports in the cabinet sides (A) and the divider (8). To position the holes. I CUl a
No. 67
drilling template to 6l between the bottom wid.. and 19" long. Ne.xt.drill I" holes. Qllly and top of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 13. deep centered on each piece. Theil rout curmes ROO,If you want to use the ar- an "escape" area for the rod 10 be removed moire to hang clothes, you will have to add a above one of the holes, see Fig. lSa. clothes rod (Y), see fig. 15.1supported the Now drill holes and mount V," dowel pins rod wilh two rod supports 00. The SUI)' on the backside ofeach supponto align with ports in tum arc held in place with two pins the holes in the cabinet. Finally. fit tile supthal iii lnto the ~helfsupporl holes. ports into lhecabinetand cut a I"o()ia.dowel CUi the supports (rom ~"-thick stock 2" 10lengtil so il wedges between thesupports.
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DOOR FRAMES The last step in @ building the armoire 16 TOP (ARCH I RAIL is to makeand inslall 0 the doors. I started with Ihe frames. ~~ [ 0 ~- ~~ srnzs, Since the doors have an arched top, the in14\"" , side stiles (M) will beloo.gcr than Ihe outside stiles (BB), see All RAIlS AND mlfS ~•• THlCK Fig. Begin by cUlting all the stiles 10 a width of3" and the twooutsidestiles (BB)to @ @ a rough length of 64", (The top ends will be OUTSIDE INSIDE trimmed down after the arched rail is CII!.) STILE STILE To determine the length of the inside stiles (AA),measure the height of the door '-.. openings al their highest point (67W' in my 64case).Then, since thedoorsoverlapihecase
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DOOR PANELS After the grooves were routed in the frame pieces. J dry assembled theframes so I could rout stopped chamfers around the inside of the frames and take the measurements for the panels. see Fig. 26. CIIAMFF.RS.To rouubechamfers, mount a chamfering bit in the router and lower i;:¥Ia" below the base. see Fig. 24a, Then. il yOIl place a W."·wide block in each comer. the bearing will hit the block and Slop the cbamfcr fill" (rom the inside comer. PANElS. After routing the chamfers. work can begin on the raised panels. Start byedgegluing enough ¥."-thick stock 10 make two top panel (FF) blanks roughly 16" x 36". Then !rlue up the bottom panel (CC) blanks to a rough size of 16·x 26". cur TO SIZE. To determine the finished size of the panels. measure the openings in the frames and add %" 10the height and width. This allows for a "'Is'-Iong longue on thepanels to filinto thcgrooves. see Fig. 27. After you know the size of the panels. cut the bottom panels to size. But the arched top
23
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panels (FF). take a liule more work. in the ~" slot in the door frame. First.cuuhe panel towidth (%" more than Note; 11,. panel is cut to fit only iY,s" into the opening). Now center the panel on the the siOI. but a %" rabbet is cut On the back. width ofthe opening and trace the arch onto This leaves a ifill" gap so the panel can exthe panel.Then cut along the curved line. pand with changes in humidity, To determine where to cut the bouom FlNISR PANElS. Before assembling the edge. measure the height of the opening at door. it'S a good Idea to finish the panels. !{ the highest point. Then transfer this you don't, and the panels shrink. the uomeasurement to the panel and add %". finished tongue could be exposed, IWSINCnlF. PM'J!lS. After the panels arc ASSElIIJJLY. Now the doors can be ascut 10 size.the next step is to rout UlC raised sembled. Glue up the mortise and spline panel profile on the front face 01each panel. joints. but don't put any glue on the panelsor Since I used araised panel bit whhoura bear- in the slots. (The panel has 10 be able 10 ing on the router table, I had rouse the router expand and coruract, see page 17.) table fence to gulde the edge of the panel. ROUND-OVER AND RARRET.There are two (Note: To routthe archcd section. I clamped more step" on the doors. Round over the a nib ann on the fence, see paRe 16.) front edges with a 111"round-over bit, see Start by raising the bit %" above the table, Step 1 in Fig. 26 a, Then rout a :VS"-deeprabsee Fig. 25. Then, rour (he profile in a series bel in the back edges, see Step 2. 01passes so ies l"wide. sceStcps 1 and 2. t1NISH AND HARIlWARE.The only IhiOR RABRIIT. Next. tum the panels over and that'slcft lstofinish thecabinet, Then mount rout a rabbet in the back. see Step 3 in Fig. thedoors with offsethin~ see Figs. ZI and 25. Make the cutin a series of passes sneak- 27. Finally. screw the catches and knobs in ing upon the height until the LOnguejust fits place. see the Exploded View on page 19.
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WOODWORKING
TECHNIQUE
Arched Molding P
robably the most interesting feature of the Armoire shown on pages 1810 25 is the arched top melding. Thiscurved top is Cypicalo[ armoires, but it call also be found on the top of grandfather docks and even above house windows.
nique. The molding is actually three separate pieces (If :¥4"' thic~ stock glued logelher. Tbis gives the appearance o( one thick piece. To get all three pieces the exact same shape, I started by malting a templale that defined thecurve on the lop (seebelow). Then I cui the pieces 10 match the templnte, and routed a pro-
TRADITIONAL Tt:CIINIQOES.
Since most arches are made from very thick wood, there are IWOmethods that have traditionally been used to make an arched lOP - carving with chisels by hand. or usinR a shaperwith molding cutlers. 111e problems with carving by hand are obvious. It lakes time, the correct tools, and most of all considerable sklll 10 carve lite COV('$and convex parts of such a curved molding. Ashapercould beused, burlt'snot a piece of equipment found in many home shops.
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Finally. I Cut the bottom edgcs and assembled all three pieces so the top edges were Oush. PROFILES. This technique combined with all of the router And, with a shaper, you're limited to the pro- bit profiles available gives you the ability 10 files made by the available cutlers. The pro- make an inOnitc variety of thick, curved fiI(: on the Armoire would require a very moldings. (On the Armelre. we only used deep (and expensive) cutter, lWO common router bits to form the entire aUII.» liP 111~ MOUlINC. For the arched profile shown in the photo above - a V4" molding shown here. I used a diffcrcnUI!Ch- Roman ogce bitand a It.l" round-over bit.)
THE ARCH
The easiest technique lor making all or the pieces ror a built>up. curved molding is 10 start by making a template. Then, this ternplate can be used as a guide for marking, cuttilig (with a sabre saw or band saw). and trimming (with a flush trim router bil) all of the pieces so the (01)edge of each piece fol· lows the exact same shape.
Armoire measurements are given here, bUl YOIIcould change the measurements (0 use To make the template for U,CArmoire, I this technique lor an arched lop ofany size.) used V."-Ulick Masonite, Begin by cutling R£FER~:r.'CE UNES. I made the template the Masonite ISVi' wide and 51Vt' long, sec into a "slOry slick" by laying out vertical refStep I in in mg. I.This makes the template erence lines wilhmcasurolUcms taken (rom long enough 10use on both molding pieces the Armoire cabinet, (S, U) as well as the top roil (N), (Nolc:Thc To do this. first mark a centerline on the
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No. 67
length of the 'empL,te blank. see Step 1in Fig. 1.Then mark vertical reference lines at both ends of the template to indicate the overall width of Ole cabinet (471'.l"in my case). Next mark a second set of vertical lines 1.0 indicate the outside of the door opening s. To determine thlsmeasurement.I measured in from the firsl set 0( lines the width of Ute stiles (3" in my case). Finally, mnrk horizontallinesat both ends 7" up from the bottom to indicate where the arched curve meets the end of the template. ·I1IIU::EARCS. Now the arched curve can be laid out by drawing three arcs. First. two smallarcsare laid out from above the lefland right comers of the template. see Step 2 in Fig. I. Then a large connecting arc is laid out with its centerpoim.betow the bottom edge atlhe template. sec Step 3. To mark these arcs. I made simple beam compasses from strips of Masonite with a pivot hole (ora nail near one end and a pencil hole near the other end. For the shorter beam compass. locate Ute pencil hole 14" from the pivol hole. see Step2. On the longer beam compass. locale the pencil hole 36" from iliepivol bole. see Step 3. Next. fasten the template blank down on a sheet of plywood or a large table, (I held it with double-sided carpertape.) To drawthe two smaller ares. position the pivot paint olthe beam cornpass in line with the outside vertical reference lines and 14" above the horizontal reference Hnes. see
Step 2 in fig. 1. Then draw the arcs.
To drawthe36"·mdius center arc. position the pivot point of the longer beam compass directly below the centerline On the ternplate. see Step 3. Then align tile pencil point to ill~ttotl~h the two 14"-radius ares.Atter locating the pivot paint. strike the large are. Cl]I'TO l;RAPli'. Now cut the arched lOP of the template a little oversize with a sabre saw or band saw and sand right to the line. TOP RAIL
Nowyou can use the template tocut the arch on the top rail Ior the Armoire. RAILB~\NK. Begin making the top rail by edg.,.glumg a blank from :VO" stock. (Shop Note: To hide the joint line. try to match grain pattern and color between pieces.) For the Armoire. I cut the top rail blank to a width of 131-'2" and to length to fit between tile cablnetstiles (4)1-'2" in mycase). see Fig. 2. Then mark a centerline on the bottom edgeoCtheblank. MARKANO CtTJ'OUTARClL Afterthe centerline is marked. lay the template on top o( the rail blank and align the bottom edges and centerllnes, Then draw the outline of the arch on the blank. see Fig. 2. Now remove the template fora minuteand cut out the shape, s~,ying about 1-8" OIL/side the pencil line, see Fig. 2a, (Shop Note: Since this workpiece i..'\ so large, T found it easiest to use the sabre saw for lhis cut) FLUSH TRIM SMOO'NI. No.... here's the
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trick (or making the lOPrail the exae: same shape as the template (and the other two molding pieces you will make later), First, screw die template to the blank. aligning the bottom edges and centerlines, see Fig. 3. (NolC: The screw holes will be covered later by the moldings uyou position them t:Y." down from the arched edge.) NexL tum the blank and template upside down and clamp them dOYo'1'110 your bench. sec fig. 4. Then mount a flush trim bit in your router and lower the bit $0 the bearing rides against the template, see fig. 4a, Now when you run the router bearing along the template, the bit will trim the edge of the blank smooth and 10 the exact shape otthe template.
After the arched top edge is trimmed to shape, the bottom edge has to be cut parallelto the top. Even though the edges are parallel. the radii (or the bOl· tom edge are diffcremlrom tbose On Utetop, so you can't use the same template, To mark the bottom edge of the rail exacUy parallel to the top edge. I used a scribingstick. Thisscribing stick isjust an8"·long piece of Masonite with two nails driven in at one end. see Fig. Sa. Afler driving the nails, drill a pencil hole 67-11"(rom the.nails, Now. with both nails riding along the top of the archand a pencil in thehole, scribe the bottom edge on the blank. see Fig. 5. Then cut the bottom edge to shape slightly outside the line and sand up to the line. CIlJ' OFF BOITOM.
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27
ARCHED MOLDING The process (or cutting the top edge of each piece is exactly the same as on the top rail. Iused the same template as with the top rail and marked and Cui the lOPedge slightly oversize, refer back 10 Fig. 2. Next screw the template to the blank (Fill. 3) and trim the piece nush with the router (fig. 4). (lO'rroM £DG£. To cut the bottom edge, you could use the same process ason the top rail. (Mark with a s,:ribing stick as shown in Fig. 5 and then cut with a sabre saw.) But I tried something a litde different here. Since both pieces are narrower. I used the band saw to get a more uniform CuL To do this. clamp a pointed guide block to
On the Armoire, the arched top rail (explained on the previous page) serves as a foundation Ior the actual arched molding. '(be molding itself is made from two pieces glued together - a base piece (S) with a Roman agee routed along the bottom edge and a trimpiece (U) with a round-overon Lhe bottom edge. CtrrFROM ONE BlANK. aoth pieces can be laid OOl and cui from one blank. see l'ig. 6. For the Armoire, I started by edge-gluing a blank 12" wide and 51 YIi" long. After the glue dries, plane the blank flat and draw • vertical line centered on the length. sec Fig. 6. ARCHED MOLDING BLANK-,
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the band saw table so the distance between the blade and the block is about V,r." wider than the finished width of the molding. sec Fig.7. (The h6" will besanded oCflater.) For the base molding (5) (111 the armoire, clamp the block 3i¥t6" £rom the blade. Now cut the bottom edge of Ihe molding by running the lOP(routed) edge agalnstthe guide block, SECONDMOlJ)II'C.AIter cutting Ihe base molding strip (S). you can follow Ihe whole procedure over nl!llil1 for the trim molding strip (U). \Vhan cutting the bouom edge of this PIOC'e on Ute baud saw. clamp the guid~ block l!¥l6" from Ibe blade. SiU<1) TO wunu, Ai this point, each molding piece should be fairly uniform In width, but about !/Ifill oversize and have a rough botlom edge from the band 5:1W cut. [ smoothed the boltom edge with a sanding drum on the drill press. sec 1"11.8. To do this. clarnpa curved (convex) guide block to the drill P",SS table and feed the molding stril> between the block and the sanding drum. 111. convex curve on Ill!! guide block should match the concavecurve on the lOPedge of the molding. (Shop Note: Iused a convex section ofthewaste left over (rom cuuing the strips from the blal1kJ Clamp the guide block so the sanding drum will sand the molding strip 1'<'I'Y lightlv.111en feed the strip with a ~tI'(((lU movement froOllefll11 righl. (DOO'l S~lP or you'll gel a divot in the molding strip.) Take two or three passes at each setting. then move the guide block s1ightly closer 10 the sandlng drum and repeat the procedure, Once the bottom edge of the strip is smooth over its entire length and the strip is the COrrect width (:~\f;I"and IV4" for the molding strips on the ArmOire),Slopsanding.
ROU"t PROFILES AND ASSEMBLE Before gluing Ute moldings together. I routed profiles along the bouom edges. (Note: The Armoire also has straight moldlngsonthcsides.parts'I'and
V. withprofiles
that match the arched moldings. It's easiest to roulail Ute pi~ at.the same time.)
For the crown molding base strips (S,T). I used the router table 10 rout a Roman ogee along the bouom edges, see fig. 9. To prevent chi pout, rout in a series of passes until there's a \Is" shoulder at the bottom o( lh~ CUI. see Pig. 9<,. ROMAN OGRE.
ROUN1).OV6R. for Ute trim strips (U.V). I routed a W' round-overwitha tk" shoulder,
sec Fig. 9a, ASSEMBLY. After the profiles are routed.
the moldings can be glued logclh~r(align the lOPedges and centerlines). sec Fig. 10.
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No. 67
MITERING THE ENDS
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Once you've glued the two arched molding strips together you're faced with another in, teresting challenge. How do you cut clean, straight miters on the ends of a piece that's I Vi' thick, 511-'2"long, and shaped like a boa constrictor? And, iflha~s 1I0tenough of aproblem. the two miters have 10 be the correct distance apart or the molding won't fit the cabinet. MITh'RINC CARRIAGE, To solve all of this. I approached the la.t problem first. Ifigured if I could cut miters the correct distance aparton the ends of•• 'mightboard, Icould transfer this measurement 10 the arched molding. That led 10 the idea of using a simple carriage (cutto the correctlength) to hold ihe arched molding while culling U,e miters on both ends, CARIUAGr;: RASE. To make the carriage, stan by cutting d base from a piece of 11.1" plywood or Masonite. Cuuhe base tea width of II"and 4l!" long, sec Fig, II. I'F.NCFS. 'men screw'l',"thick fences on lOPof the panel along the Iront and back edges, see Fig. U a, Keep the screws at.least 2" frumeach end so you won'thil them when cutting the carriage to length, M1TF.R O)'JEEND.Next, clamp your table saw miter gauge 10 the back fence near one end of the carriage and set the carriage on
top of the saw, see Fill. 12.Then tip your saw blade 10 45' and trim just a little bit off one end of the carriage, (Don't cut the molding yet, jusl cut the carriage for now.) Shop Note: You can also use tllis carriage on a radial arm saw without a miter gauge. Iusttip lhe blade 1045' and hold the carriage tighl against the fence when cutting. AIITERT() U,:N(;m. Thetrick comes in cutting UI~miter on the other end of the carringe 10 the correct length. To determine the finished length of the molding, measure lhe exact outside width of the cabinet. (In rnycase.the Annoire measured 47Ii'l'.) '111en, 10 cut the carriage to lhis length. I unclamped the miter gauge and turned the carriage around so the other fence is"gainS! the miter gauge. Next, make a series ofcuts sneaking up
on
the
final
11
a,
dimension
until
the
distance from l(lng poillt·to·long /)oillt of the miters measures the same as the outside width of the cabinet. see Flg.12a. Wait a minute. I lhought you said you were going 10 cut the carriage the same length as the finished arched molding. To fit the cabinet. wouldn't that be trOID "'0'1'1 poillt.to·s/urrt [)Oint nf the miters? This may seem a little confusing. But remember, you're going 10 be selting the moldingon 1tY]J ofthecarriage forcutling. So
12
-1
(DIet
13
terline on thecarriage, see 1;'1&. 13,Andkeep both "feel" of the arch (low points) tight against one of the fences, (I used doublesided carpet uape 10 hold the molding In place. but you could screw through from the bottom of the carriage into the back of the molding.) MITER ONE END. Mer Ille molding Is mounted InposItion, clamp ihe miter gauge 10the back fence so the saw bladealigns with the miter cut on the end oftheearriage, see I"g, 13.11'en trim one end offthe moldingal .45' angle. CUT10 LENl;nl. Next. tum the carriage around and damp the miter gauge to the other fence sothe blade alignswith Ihemlter on tile other end. Then cut the molding to the finished length. Now the shcrtpoints on the molding-should justlit theoutside edges of the cabinet, fRIM !10TH (NDS Of CAltlttAGE AT
o.
~4·r--
'T _l
the long points on the top of the carriage basewill actually become thcshon pointson the back onne molding. see Fig. 12a, MOUNT 11m WORJ{PIF.CF.. Once the carriage is cut 10the correct length, draw a line across it.centered Onthe length. see Fig. 13, Then YOIl can mount Ille arched molding on top of the carriage. To cut an even amount offbolll ends.align thecenteriineson the molding with the cen-
11..02"
Non:
'"
/
(NDS Of CARIIAGE" All Mom.IO UTlIt (SEt ftG. 12)
FIRST:
SECOND:
MITER9Nl (ND noSH WIT'" (NO OfCARRJAGE
TURN CAItRJAGE AItOUNO AND Cl.AM.PMmR GAUGE10 fENCE
THIRD: SECOND END RUSH WJTH (NO Of CARRtA.Ol MJTU_
AlJGN
• ARCH TOP MOlDING CARIlIAGI
MITIR GAUGE TO CAIlRIAOI
No. 67
\Vooosmith
29
COMMENTS
AND
QUESTIONS
Talking Shop MORTISING: ROUTERS AND BITS shank. 'The thicker shank gives sistance and burning. PRA11JRES. These bits are specifically designed 10 do one the bit extra stability. As an alternarive to high Ihing-nll mortises, They have and using a machine is speed. However. there is one draw- speed steel bits. several mail In the past, I've cut mortises tile plun¢ng ability of a drill bit back. Thecutter length ona V."· order companies offer solid carwith a drill press. This involves cornblned with a spiral cutting diameter bit with a l1!\1 shank is bide spiral end mill bits. see drilling a series of holes, and edge that cuts side-to-side like a only I" long. see bit on Ille left in Sources on the next page. then cleaning litem out with a router bit, thephoto. Soyou can'tcuta morThe main difference between chisel. (For more on this techTIle spiral on these bits have tise deeper than I" with this bit, solid carbide bits and high speed nique, see ~Vood8mitl,Nc>.64.) an "UIXUI"design. Upcutrefers Larger diameter bits have steel bits is the same as the 'Vhnethis mcthod works fine. 10 direction of the spiral, and longer cutter length. 10 make difference between standard saw blades and carbide-tipped an even Caslermethod is to rout means thai the chips are pulled deeper mortises. MATIlRIAI.. Once you've deter- blades. Carbide stays sharp for a OUI the mortise with a router, upeutofthe mortise to eliminate build-up and clogging. mined the size of bils you need. long time. This means you can But. to rout mortises you need Okay, bUIwhy can't l just use you still bave achoiceonhe type cutalot ofclean mortises. three things: a router. the cora carbide-lipped straight bil? of materialthe bit is made [rom, CONCUlSION. So what kind of rect bit, andsome means of at'CU' The spiral bhs most readily bits should you have? ''Veil, ir I rately aligning the cuts, You call, but it's not the best choice. Straight router bits have available are made (rom high really needed to make large TIle Mc>rtising Table shown on pages 12 and 13isaneasyway mortises. and I had a router that one or two 8t''aigitt cutting' speed steel. 10 align mortises and cut them edges which run in-line with the Wail a minute. my first router accepted bits with a lIi' shank, wiih a router. But ... what kind shank. Because the cullers are blts were high speed steel and I'd buy high speed steel spiral of router is best 10 use on this nOI designed to plunge (drill) , they started burning the first end mill bits. BUI,if 1 were to buy jusl one table, and what kind of bit? you have 10 force the workpiece time Iused them. Won'uhesedo into the biLAnd there isn't a pro- the same thing? bit, it would be a V'''-dia. solid ROUTER vision for pulling Ule chips up NOl necessarily. Because of carbide end mill. (Note: Ill" I've been using a Porter-Cable out of the mortise. which can the spiral design. only a small shank solid carbide bits are N690 router, It bas a couple of cause overheatlngand chatter, portion of lhe cutting edge available. butexpensive.) I think features Illat work well with the arrsizs.Ancr Jdecided louse rnakesccmaciwith the material. the smoothness of cut and its design ofthc MorUsingTablc. spiral end mill bits, I still had to This reduces the amount of re- longlifearewonh thecxtracost, Note.The Porter Cable router decide the bit size. .--------------------------i has certain advantages for the DlI~'ffiTElI. Spiral STATEMENTOFO\VNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCll1.A110N Mortising Table. but you 0011 't end mill blrs are (,llequiredby39U$.C, 3685) .Ieed thisspecific router. It's nice available in a variety I. TiLW of PublicOlliou~ Woocl'!l.tnlUl la. eu,bliClalion No.: 0164-41111, :to Olle of f11tnsr. ScplC.1flbtr 10 have a router with these fea- of sizes. To deterXI, t_1 r requtmey ofi-..sut!:Bimonthly. 3.:1.-I\u,oti.v.ue51JIlbll-liht'd In,hllLlly:G(.o,'be). 3~. AnnUAl tures, but.almost any router \\ill mine the size of bit ~btcriplion pri«': $12.!J5. 4, COI'llp4cU:~ nl.liliftjl:IId~~ ofknown ofti()t'iQl publicalionl,22()OCrand A\'en\k', Des ~ioint"t. (Polk- County). Juwa SOOI2-4306. S. COntp~'1r mrulillg-l.ddn"lt....of IlW! you need, first dework. ht."ldq\lartm\CH~crnJ butlm(:8.t.o((ic:t:!; orlh, p,lbUVler.Z200CnmdA\'rouc, D~ ~1,"nC'$.I()\\'a ROllTER FEA11JRES. One fea- tennine the thick, 5031U3Oti. 6. 'Fullnnnllti and compit'tt'lIwling-addtetSof 1!\lblishc:r,lili10f'.and mltJlngill,gf!dimr. ture l likenbout the Porter Cable ness of stock you PubUd.t:r Md Editor: DCIMldR~,Pdcllke. 22'00 Gnnd A\7tftuC'.Oct ~1(llnt:t.loWli500J 2; ~illln~· router is that Ute collet can be mortise most often, i:ng Editc;>r:l>n4~1l1.. Ifi(u.2200GrMd A\'en~ l)(!It.~loill(".t4WD 5tl312.7. C)"'ller. \VoodlO1\lh COrpOraMu. ZZOOGnuld A\i\'~nllc.Des ~io1n~t loWl! 50012: Donald 8. Peeehkt', 2200 (.i.n.od lowered flush with the base. U In my case. that's Avtf!u....,IA.~ Molnl"!l,JtPWJt:;OO l2.8. Known bcnldholMJ'!.. ~I!o ..and blhtr~ritY hol,den the collet SlOpS higher. il can usually !i4"olhick oWlling Ipereem or JfJ4reof totallln,(I(lUlofbond'- mo~or Olliff .securities: Nene. g, (~ limit the depth of cut since some stock. not IlPPIy.) 10. F..xJrfll ""d nature ()(i.ircuut.,n:: of Ule bit's cutting edge will $UII Since. the width Adualno,QlP~ ."'~ no, copic..c; o. Jinglelssub be above the router base. of the mortise is tlCh issut durln.g pubi$hed Jle-Me!It Another feature that makes typically one third l)t'(!C~pg 12month. 10 filing d:itt' litis router easy to work with is lite thickness of the A. Totnl no. ('C)pid printed (Det pn!SI rul;) m.974 295,800 thatthemotcrcan becompletety stock, Iuse a V~'- B. Pa\d andl or ~UCSlt:d drrubtiQn: {,6,';4 1, Silks through d('lIIlt·.f'!.~el \endO,...w.d COWII~r~ ".4J" removed (rom tbe base. This din. bit mosl often. 2. Mail ",bscriptlo •• (paOJ and/or requ .... ,,) .... . ,. ~.o 13 25-1,334 means you can mount the Two other bits I use :!Stj,\lt!8 C, Total pnld Md/orn.:qutsttd cirouin!ian .•••.••.•• , • 270.-427 router's base 10 Ule Moni$iDg occasionally are !Ii" O. Free di1lributJon by' nwl. COUTkrat olht!r rneani!:,!cWnple1l. Table but still remove the motor and !fi'diameter. complilMntuy ....ld ulherfrttQ)pk~ .• , .~.. ,••..••• 124 o E. To",1 di$tribullon .. .. Z1Q,S.'H 258.9&1 to change bils easily. SIIANK, All of F. c:o~"'"""I djlliJibulcd these bit sizes are 1.OfQce u.&e. td't oVtr, wa.;Iccounttd. llpoiledw..printlli8 •. 17.095 SPIRAL END MIU BITS available with a l1!" 2. Rc:Cums.(rotn n('Ws '''Renl' •• • ••• ••• y, •••• ,',... .328 A1Ulougbtherearescveral types shank. In most sitr..TQblI •••• ,," ., .... ••••.•••• 287.974 of bits that can cut mortises. I uations, I prefer a prefer spiral end mill bils, 1'2" shank over a V4" • The only real difference IJ<)tween culling mortises by hand
30
WoodSll'Iith
No.6?
SUPPLIES
PROJECT
Sources
r:
eludes JUSI the hardware. (You Supplies (or from some of the provide the plywood.) catalogs llsted below). Morti,;ing Table Hardware Solid C'rbide End Mill ·767·225 MortisingTablc .767·250 V," Mortising Bil, Hardware Package ........$3<1.95 SoUdCarbide. 'lf4" Cutting (I) 7'lr4" x tn,," Phenolic PlasLength, V," Shank. ........$ L9.95 tic Router Base (I) Transparent Orangi'Safely High Speed Steel End Millo Guard ·278·658 V4" BiL :y,1" Cutting (4) 1V."·Dla. Knob, with 'lf4" • Length. I-'l' Shonk .........$12.95 Long, V4'"ZOThreads ·278·664 :VH" Bit. 1 V," CUI· (4) V." I.D.'nlrcaded lnserts ling Length, V.!" Shank. $1<1.115 (4) lV4" 0.0 .•V." I.D."'ashers • 278-007 1-'2"Bil. I 'I.!" Colling (8) 111.1" I'll Drywall Screw" Length, 1-2"Shank ........•$15.95 MORTISING TABLE, ARMOIRE COMPLETE KIT A package of the hard ware There is also a complete ready- needed for the Armoire is availato-assemble kil that includes ble from \Voodsmith Project everything listed above plus the Supplies (or from some of the pre-cutplywood, catalogs listed below). TIle plywood is Baluc Birch Annoi..., Hardware (13 ply. lY\s"·!bick) w~UI the ·767-300 Armoire Hardware threaded inserts already inPackage ....................._. $34.95 stalled. AU you have to do is cut (3pr.) ¥$" Brass Plated Hinges a slot (or l/olLr miter gauge and (2) Pierced Cast Brass Plales an optional hole to fit yo",. shop(2) Solid Brass Knobs vac hose. Then glue and screw (2) 13mss 13.11Door Catches the pans logelher and mount (28) Pin TypcShelfSullJX)rts lhe reuter 10 the phenolic base, RAISED PANEL BIT Ready-To-Assemble MortisingTablc .Kit The raised panel bit (V4" shank) ·767.200 Complete Mortisneeded 10 make the dooraon the MORTISING TABLE: firmat Knock-Down Screws ingTable Kii .................. $14.95 Arnloir.., is available from HARDWAH (2) Tray Latches with Mount· Woodsmith Project Supplies MORTISING BITS lng Screws and Catch Rods AUtile hardware needed for the (or from the Scars catalog). (7) #8 x 'W' Pan Head Screws Mortising Table i~ available as a The spiral end millruuterbitsfer Raised Panel Bit (3) Finish Washers pack'lJlI!from \Voodsmith Pro- the Mortising Table are availa- ·767·325 RlIiscd Panel (2) I Vi" Drywall Serews [ect Supplies, This package in· ble from Woodsmith Project Carbide-TIpped llit .......S22.95
HIGHCHAIR. PAtTERN Full-size pauerns for the high· chairs seal back and for a ternplate 10 rout the [ray recess are available from \Yoodbmith Pmject Supplie. s, Note: These parterns are Indl! for the seat back and tray. They do not Indude the IeI!'!ornuy etber 1=. Hill/lcbair Patterns • 767-125 Highchair Seal BacKrrray Pauems ........$3.50 HIGHCHAIR: HARDWARE PACKAGE A hardware package for the Highchair is also available. The package includes nil hardware needed 10 build the highchair. plus 3 thre ...piece safety strap. andthe hardware used to mount the tray (spring·londed latches that swivel tile tray out of the way. see the photo on page 32). Highcbair Hardware ·767-100 Highcbair Hard ware Package ••....••••••.•••$19.95 (I) FuU-5ize Palll!ms of Ihe seat back and template for rouung the tray recess (1) Nylon $a(etyStrdp (10) lVi'-I.ong (40mml Con-
ROUTER BITS The carbide-tipped router bits needed LO rout out the highchair's tray are available (rom \Yoodlimith PmjectSupplies. (See olhcrStlllplicrs below.) Router Bits ·271-7211;',1, Corebox Bit (with VI" shank) ...........$21.95 ·271-7301-2" Corcbox Bit (with Vi' shank) ...........$25.95 ·764-2001-2" Roundover Bil (wilh V," shank) ...........$26.95 ·764-2501-2" Roundover Bil (with 1-2"shank) ..,........ $28.95 .767·1404(0" Slraight Bil (with \!.til shank) ........... $14.95 • 767·150 :y,," Straighl Bit (with V2" shank) ...........$16.95 ,;1tlOl fJltSlllNG. WIlen routing tile tray recess. you will need a guide bushing (or template )!uide) to fil Ille base of your router. A1mosl all roU[('" manufacturers offer a guide bushing as an accessory. Check with your local dealer. A universal base plate and guide bushingsct thai will fil any router is also available from some of UtCcatalogs below.
ORDER INFORMATION ay MAIL Tn order by mail, use the term «nclosed with 0 current issue or write your order on a pil'<"e IIr paper, and -end it with your clw\"l( ormoney order. (l~ea'e lnclude $3.50 handlinz and ~hipllinl! charlie with each erder.) lA residents add 4--. sales tax, Scn~ order til: WoodsmithProjeetSupplics P.O. Bo" 10850 Des M oines.lA 60306
No. 67
ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES
SYPHONE For faSll'r ~crviC1:II~uur"llll Free order lin..:.l'hollC erders can be placed Monday through Friday, 8;00 AM to 5:00 PM Central Standard TIme. Bdore calling. have your VlS!\ Of Master Card ready.
1·800-444-7002 Alluk''s to tl It .... kftJord,rlitll*r!/. ,\·nll" Ilfl(~8 Jtl4h;rc114 e/(tI)fgr
n{t,..· Stpl,'w6t:r, l!i9(l,
Similar hardware and suppli es moy he(nwLdilLthe followiltf! calQ./ogs,Houseuer 81ylesond sizes may va",. Please refer /() roth catalog (ororderiflginformation.
Garrett Wade 161Avenue or the Americas New York. NY 10013 [{()I,(e" Bit•. JI101ti8illg Bits Woodcraft Supply P.O. Box 1686 Parkersburg. \VV26102 Rout",· Bits, .1/
WooJsmirh
Woodworker's Supply 5604 Alameda, N E Albuquerque. NM 871J3 Router Bits. Mhltisillg
Bits
The Woodworkers' Store 21801 Industrial Blvd. Rogers, MN 55314
High ellai1', /Wilier Bits
3J
A
LAS
T
LOOK
Final Details Armoire
Ii> All (tN'/"lI·/l)l' diJur11ti,°ftJrtr
th«
groc.Jut aN'II oJthe
top InQlllmg, Offset braas hi"gM "'I'(lP
completely Q>'OUlIt/ to tile illside oJtlte tipped (Wor,
Ii> Sulid ca.t IIl'u$" ot'
tile stender. ekc·
o1'lltive blY£ll$ back
"late "'" C'<11/ered 011 thr .tilc~ of the doors,
AA >I lllml slI;(ety .•tmp i.a ""ilable Jor t/le HightilUir. ;lIse) Iwailttbie i.~rial }llI"t· 111(1,'0that: lets tne I",?/ .'villa oul ojtbe
woy
32
mid
/tollg olJmgsiek IIntil """d.c
A ~VitJI""t[( door.oplm 11011 "all really 8ee alL tile 8IQ1'G{f6p_i. lIilitie. ill Oli$ 8ew>'foolt.allArmoi, .., Addauothercloset 11)(/ to create mo"c ltanging 8p1ICf1, Or, i/!lo1t p~./trr,yOIl can place ad.jU8tabic shelves 0" both ride. of tllC cllbillel.
ATM. ~ItOp·blliU llfo,ti$ing Table,,"~kc8 A You get, I1II IIIIOOSt1'lICted vWwojtile c,,1.$ yo,,'re 1T"ick I/)ork out O/CUltillg aeccllmlc mor1II0},,;1I9. Pilla/Mgllllrd keeps tises. Pari ofilli. arCILT(l.cy istne 'limptc neigill (It/jl<.t1>'''lJt plate .1101/)11 a./'Ol'il, your fi'llu''''''' wall friml tile hit.
Woodsmitn
No.67