NO. 64
I
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.50
No. 64
EDITOR'S
August, 1989
COLUMN
Sawdust EdllOr Donald B. Peschke OosIgn00t00l0< Ted Kralicek MMaging Editor Douglas L Hicks AssIstant Edit"'. Douglas M. Lidster Kent A. Buekton Terry J. Strohman ProjGct Dosigntl< Ken Munkel
Technlcalllluslt8lO
RodStoakes Chris GIowaeIcl CusIomer_ Sandy Baum, Mgr. Jackie S1roud PatKoob
Usa Thompson PIqod 5""" ... Leslie Ann Gearhart <:00_ Paul E. Gray
C
utot
()perotJOns Ken Miner
AdO'lnl$lralWO ASslS. Cheryl SCott Jean Carey
Bolk,tingMnlntonanco
Archie Krause
WOOl)SMITH STORES Goo",01 Manogor Steve Krohmer Manogot Store Manogors: St loUIs. MO 8ofI
Mall<0bng
Steve Dozier Jon Behrle Micllael DeHaven KentWelsh
WOODSMrTH (ISSN 0164-4114) is published btmonthly (February. Apnl. June, August. October, December) by Woodsmith Publishing Co" 2200 Grand
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7:30 AM 108:30 PM. CST. weeI
2
W
hat's the most difficult thing about building a chair? The joinery? Maybe , .. because you're faced with a lot of menise and tenonjomts, Although they're not the easiest joint to make. they're not lhat difficult either. Uyou C3Jl drill a series Of holes, you've just about got a mortise made, And af you can cut a rabbet on the end of" board. you're halfway to forming a tenon. \Vell, how about the curved pieces on a chair? Most chairs have curved back legs or curved staison the back that conform to the shape 01 the occupant. Anything that's curved isalittle more difficult to make. And there's also the image of bending thepieces 10 the curved shape. BUIcurvcdpieeesdon't haveto be bn,l pieces, Thecurved pieceson the chairs shown in this issue are easily cut on a band saw. Okay, you can cut a curved back leg On a band saw, but it's an 0<1<1shape that's almost a free-form sculpture. How do you culthat? Actually. h's probably the easiest part of the chairto cut -if you use a template. Even an exotically curved loA'can be cut on a band saw just by following a template. And the same templale Can be used to do the final smoolhingand shaping on a router table. Howaboul tile upholstery? Because [was working with rabrie. f had this vision onearo. ing how to sew. But tile upholsteryfor these chairs requiresno sewing skills, Basically. if you can use' staple gun, you can upholster these chairs. Okay Don. then what is the biggestproJ>. lemwhenitcomeslobuildingachair?lthink it's the..,,,,bi'lanon of all these things (joinery. cutting curves. upholstery) that creates apprehension. Yetitalsocreates intrigue because it's nOltypica,1 woodworking, Uke most projects, when taken ODestep at • lime, chair building is not all that demanding. !lut in the process or building these chairs, Idiscovered two things Ididn't really anticipate. First, chair building takes a 101of time, It look me aboullOO hours to build and finish a set of six chairs, 11131'5nota lotof!imeper duur,bUIthe hours lend toadd upwhen you build ase tof chairs, You'reactually building a lot o!indivldual projects- they all happen to be the sam e, That leads to the second discovery. Although chair building may not be mass production. it is ntilltiple production. Each piece forthe first chair must beacioneofthe pieces lor all the other chairs. To get this kind of repeatability means using templates
Woodsmim
and production techniques to ensure identical shapes. I found that using a template was the key. We've included an article (page 18) On the basic technique of how to use a template to make the back legs for the chairs. Bul this technique applies to any project that needs several pieccs- 011Identical. !Xffil'lStON1'A'llY..Although the chairs required some ingenuity to figure out the technique to repeat shapes, tile table we built to accompany the chairs required ingenuity of design.
'Vhat wewanted wasanextension tableone in which leaves could be added to extend the size of the table. The problem was that I've never been particuJar!yfond oftypicalesteesiontables. ThetopisusuaUycutin haHsothe 1W0halve1!C3Dbe pulled apart to add the extension leaves. This type of table works, but it seems a shame to cut the table top in halfjust to extend il a fewUn>es uyear (usuaUy on Thanksgiving. Christmas. and farnlly reunions). Therestofthe timeyou havetocontcnd with that crack in tile middle of the table. The solutlom Build a table with a solid top (not cut in hall) and pul tile leaves on runners so they can be pulled out al tile end$ of the table to extend its size. This system is nOlhing new. But it is sort of a mind·twister to explain.11le idea is that Ibe extension lea"es are On runners. These runners are mounted at an angle under the lable top. 'Vben )'ou lin up the top (it just 'lIoats" on the 1t'RS and aprons). the exteasion leafcan bepulled out. Since the runners are mounted at an angle. tile leaf win raise up 10 be level with the surface otthe tabte top. lralso means the leaves are always part of the lable - not Siored in the closet where they might warp or could be scratched. All in all. this extension design makes a nice dining roo m lable for the 362 days. year when the leaves are 'lot extended. NEw P,ICES, There comes" time when a business needs financial guidance. If nothing else, you have to know where you stand, and predict where you're going, Thauneans accounting. Paul Gray has joined us as our corporate controller. Fortunately, he's also a woodworker (andw3sa subscriber 10 lI'oodsmitir even before he was hired), so he has an undel'SWlding why we spend so much money 00 wood and power tools. S£\"TISSUE.The next tssue of IVoodsmitir (No. 65) win be mailed durin)! the week of October30, 1989.
No. 64
FRO
M
FELLOW
WOODWORKERS
Tips & Techniques ALIGNING
DRAWER FRONTS
In Woodsm.ilh No. 62 you showed how to align Ialse drawer fronts in a cabinet using a four-screw method. Iusca slmilar method when mounting a drawer front tlta thas a band pull with mounting screws. The rnoullljrtg holes lor the hand pulls serve as the adjustment holes lor the false front To use this method. first drill four countersunk shank holes
through the back of the drawer front (lor the screws that will hold the false front.in place). see Fig. ia, Alter these holes have been drilled. drill two holes lor the pull through the false front Next, temporarily clamp the false front onto the fronl of the drawer. Now comes the trick. Stick an. awl through the pull holes in the f,use trent to mark their location 0)1 the real front.
BENCH STOP At Urnes Iwanlto plane orscrape a project on my workbench. but I don't have a dog system or an end vise to stop the piece, To solve this, I made.a simple bench stopoutofUlin hardwood scrap, then screwed it to the-end 01my workbench. ntis works fine. but there are times when I don't want the stop stickingupabovethetopsurface of !he bench. So. I altered the
bench stopso itcould drop down cut of Ihe way.
To do this, drill a series ofW· dia. holes in the shape 01an "L".
No. 64
Then remove the clamps and drill W'·diameler holes at the marks through the drawer front Oldy (not the lalse [rant). To align the false front, mount it with two roundhead screws that go through the pull mountinll'holes (in the I,"sewnt) and through the W'·dia. holes (in the drawer lront) and finall¥ into a scrap block (inside the drawer),
see Fig. 1.
near each end of the slop. 'Then Sometlmes when using the clean the Lsbapes out using a router (able. irs laugh to get a chisel. .clean finished cut that doesn't Toanaeh the stopto thework- bum. To get a good cut. I use a bench, posltion the top edge of two-pass system-s-but I only the stop flush with the top of the have to make <»18 selling for the workbench. Now tighten the height ofthe router bit. stop to the bench using two No. To do this, 6.'St set the router S x 1" roundhead screws with bit 10cut at !he fidl1t8¥Jht and washers placing the screws at check it with a test piece 01 the lOp of the "L" slot. Keep the scrap. After the height of the bil Screws just loose enougb s.othat i~ set, tape a piece of cardboard the stop can be raised and (approximately II.lt'·lhick) to lowered. the top of the router table, in 1'0 use the bench SlOp, lift it front 01 the bit The cardboard straight up until the screws bot- should be about as long as U,e tom (Jutin the "L,"111en 10lock table and just a little wider than it in place. slide it left to Iheend Uteworkpiece. olthe "L," see drawing. Wilh the cardboard in place. This bench stop worked so the workpiece will be raised well lor me.Iadded another stop slightly SOthe first cut does not on the adjacent e:dge of the cut 10 the complete finished bench. Now J have two stops at depth. Then. to make the finish 90' from each other, which is cut, remove the cardboard. This handy fors
C!iffmYLHicks
Woodsmith
aligned. secure.
it with
screws
U,rough the countersunk holes. Alter screwing tile false front inplace, removethescrap block. and install the pull. see Fig. 2. H(LrlJey Freeman
Halifax, Nova.f;colia
GLEAN ROUTING
8"reva.,yJ., l\'ortJ"Caroiilla
To adjust the false front.place Ihe drawer in the cabinet. I.! it needs adjustment. pull the drawer out and genlly lap the false Irontwitha mallet Once i~s
/)(rve lI'ortM"
Spri?1gjield•Dnio
CLAMP PADS Placing clamping blocks between pads on a C<:lamp and the project (to protect the surface) usually takes ~,ree bands. On. tohold the Cclamp and another two to hold the blocks while try. ing to tighten down the clamps. To solve this problem. ruse seIf.sticking pieces 01round felt on Ihe pads of my C-elamps. These inexpensive pads are used on the boUom of jewelry boxes and found in most hardware stores in a variety of diameters. Robert A71d~son Chandler, A";"O)U1
SEND IN YOUIrTIPS
Iiyou'd like to share a tip with others. send in your idea to Wcodsrnhh. Tips &. Tech-
niques, 2200 Grand Ave,,·Des Moines, Iowa 50312. \Ve pay $15 for accepted tips, Please send an explanation and a sketch il needed (well draw-a newone).
3
FEATURE
PROJECT
Dining Table It looks like a standard Danish Modem table. But beneath the top are twO extension tvings that add another 43" to the overaU length. But wait a minute ... hotv do those exrensions actually tvork?
T
he biggest problem wilh this table is Irying 10 explain how iI works. I had such a hard lime explaining me design 10 everyone. mal I finally went down 10me shop and JUSI buill il. When Ifinished. everyone said. '"Tha(sniceDon.bul I thought you said mis table had leaves?" I couldn'1 resist showing off a little; ISimply lifted one end 01me free Oooting lOPand pulled thel.aHrom Imdn-Ih~"'blt. I didn'l evengerachanee 10pulloul theothcrleaCbcfore someooe fiRedme table 101>011 to see how iIworked. HOWrrwORXS. On most extension tables the lable top is cut in hal! and each halns attached to some sort ofrunners. To extend Ihe tableyou pull Olehalves 81"" and the leavcsdropin-on top ef the runners. With this tabte the leat'C' are attached to Ole runners. When you wanuocxtend the table. lift uponeend ofthe top and pun out a leaf. When the leaf is lully extended me top drops down and rests on tOl' of the runners. Once you understand how the runners work. build-
4
ing this table is very straight forward. The joinery isn't complicated and the only hardware you Deed is lour hanger bolts and a few screws. CI1T11NG1H£TOJ'.Thetopand the leaveson this table arecutfrom asingle sheet ofoakpJyv.·ood. To make the grain of the plywood tOP match up witlt the leaves. I laid oul mycutsasiflbe leavcs were part olthe top. see the CutlingDiagram. Since the leaves fit under the table top (when in the stored position). they are slightly smaller (narrower) than the top. see the Detail in the Exploded \rlCw. 11IELEes. One other interesting {eatoreon this table ismelegs,aodbowlhey·remow>tedtotheaprons. The legs are mounted so they stand at a 45' angle. They're mounted to the table's aprons wilh corner blocks and hanger bolts. Thisroakesthemremovableand theycan also be tighlened if they loosen over time. FINISH. To provide the table with extra protection I used two coats ofpolyurethane, sanding between coats.
Woodsmith
No. 64
EXPLODED VIEW TOP EDGING TABLETOP
@
,, 1' TOP
--
-- ---~ -~ -._--_
LEAFEXTENSION DETAIL
UfT'fDGf OFTA8lt
GUIDES KEEPTOP CENTEREO ON BASE
PUll. lEAf STRAlGHTOUf
SUPPORT ARM GUIDED SUPPORT CARRIAGE
MATERIALS LIST
CUnlNG DIAGRAM
A TGP(l)'
¥d X MV,,·
B leaves (2)'
%x~~~33
C SId& T(1) Edgl
"., x 1%-36rgh, 'Il x 'AI, 35 rgh, 'AI-22'''' rgh,
H End J\prons(2)
I CGmerIllo<:I<.S (4) J Top Bloce.(2) K LowerBloce (l)
l Crosssroess (4)
54'A:
,,., x 1~~56 (gh,
'I.",
~.,lt31"'-4W, % x 3"., - 27% 1%x3-' 'If,)(,2 - 2'1¥'
414)(2· 28V~
~~xS·60(2.18d.Ft.)
I
t
13(.. )( s
I - 100
o
NO,G4
o I a
J
~. x 21-2 - I(W,
10/,x 2\(4-4911> 10/,x 3 - 271-'2 GuldG$(2l '¥4x2'h-6% • These pleclil$ 9,e 0/,' P!ywbGd,
l
(6.9 ad. Ft.) M
M
M SUj)portArmo(4) N LegS(4)
J
JL
l~x 6~· 64 (5.8 8d. Ft.) N
N N
N
W.oodsmith
~LSON£EDlD ONE 4' x 8' OF~.&"ptYWOOD,FOR TA6U TOP AND Lf,AVES
5
TOP AND LEAVES 11\c table begins by making the.top.I cut
the plywood (or the top (A) and the two leaves (a) to size. refer to the Exploded View on page 5. RQfJJ'TONGUE.In order to mount the, edging pieces thatcovertheplywood edges, I routed Ii tongue on all the edges of each plywood piece. To do this, mount an edge guide and li't' straJgbt bit in the router, see Fig. 1. Then rout a rabbet on the tOP and bottom faces 01 tile plYwood to produce" vs"-thick tongue, see Fig. 1a.
EDGLNC.After the longue is routed, you can cut the four top edging pieces (C,D). These pieces are resawn ro l;:'J" thick and
thenripped to 1W' wide. see Fig. 2.They're cuttc rough length about2" longer than the
sides and ends of the plywood top. Also cut the eight ?lst'·widelear edging pieces (E, F), see Fig. 2. GROOVllIN EJ)(;ING.The edging is joined to the plywood'pieces by cutting a ~"-wide groove (to match the tongue) on the inside faceof each piece. The groove is positioned sowhen theedging isrnounted.thetopedge sticks up about Vt6"above the topface of the plywood. (It's trimmed flush later.)
ROUNDIlJ)GE. Before mounting the top
2
edginj1 pieces (C,D). also rout a \-in roundover on the i71sW"bottom edge, see Fig. 2. APPLY EDGING.Now tbe edging can be glued and clamped to the plywood. Miterthe endsoffuetopedging pieces (C.D) and glue them to the table top (A). (For some tips on this. see page 11.) Also miter and glue the leaf edging
RIP FENCE
3
r..
~ ROUT C<>ON1'Ql·
£DG-EGUIDE
ClOCKWIS(
NOTE'
TRIM [OGING RUSH RIP FtNCE
a.
",.'
The next phase is to
(0 form a slightbevelon the bottom ofalHour make the four notches. This bevel should slope toward the aprons that hold the imide"ace 01 the end aprons (H). see Fig. 5. jegs togetller. The KllRfS f·OR.SPLINES. To complete Ole sideaprons(G) are aprons, kerfs are cut at both ends or all four very easy - just cut two pieces of :¥"tI_ 4 thick stock 3Ii'l" N01CHESfOR wide b~ 47¥.!"long. SUPPORT ARMS The end aprons (H) are also 31i'l" wide, but l~~"I)E(JI' only 210/," long. i'o.'OTCH E~"APRONS.Alter the end aprons are cut to length, you have to layout the locationoltwo notches. Tbesenotchesallow Ihe leafsI\Ppor1s to be pulled out. refer to the Exploded View. Tbe notches in each end apron are in diffel'en\ positions so thaI the leaf sUPPOr1S will bypass each other under the table. To make the notches, raise the blade on the table saw to cut 10/16"deep. Then make re-
aprons. These kerfs match liP with kerfs in the corner blocks (I) so splines can be used
to align the aprons to the comer blocks. Cut these kerfs 1\I," from the end of each apron, V4" deep. see Fig. 4.
petitive passes to waste 6ut the notches.
Alter the notches have been-cut, use a rasp
6
Woodsmi[n
No. 64
CORMER BLOCKS saw blade at 45' and cut a bevel off one end block isser backfrom the ends ofthe aprons, ofeach leg blank, see Fig. 6.Nowtum IbeJeg refer 10 Fig. 8a. SUANKItOIJ!. Later. the legs are mounted each corner with a blank over and cut ilagain to form a trlal1gu· corner block (1). lar-shaped, piece so one corner has 3 l)'t'- to the corner blocks with :Vs"-&a. hanger bolts. To prepare lor mounting these bolls. -Since the COtner wide fiat face. see Fig. Sa. blocks are cut from KEJ.tFTHE BLOCKS. The corner blocks are drill a %"-&a. shank hole on the driU press. tbe same sjze stock kerfed to accept 111' Masonite splines. These Center the hole On lbe inside lace of ilte as the legs (N). r splines align the corner blocks to the kerfs comer block. see Fig. 8. made the leg blanks ill the aprons (G.H). ASSEMBlE TIlE APRONS. Now tile aprons Start by positioning the .saw fence l'k" can be assembled by gluing and clamping 4" longerthan needed and cut a comer block from the blade, and setting Ute blade height the COmer blocks inplacewith l1i" Masonite (I) oft the end of each leg blank. ClTI"TRE ~I..OCKS.So-start by cutting four to V4", see Fig. 78. Then cur a kerf in both splines,see Fig. Sa. (used a clamping block leg blanks from 1:v,"·thick stock. Cut the beveled sidesof the corner blocks. see-Fig. to support theCdamp and hold the comer blanks to. width 0(3" and a length of31:¥..". 7. Note: The kerfs in the aprons are only square. (See Shop NOles on page 10 for more on this technique) Then to make the comer blocks. set the IV4"from the end oHheap",n so Ihecomer The T:able aprons are held togerner at
HOLO CORNER
6
8LOCt(:nGHT
AGAINST
F(NCE
o. "0
BLANK
®
LEGS The next step is
to
cut and, shape the legs (N). First, cut them to a finished length of27W'. CliM1PER U'GS.
The inside edges of each leg (N) are chamfered so the legcan butt against theapronsata4S' angle. Begin by setting the blade to 45' and position the sawfence 1" fromtheblade, see Fig. 9a. Now. cut a chamfer on one edge. then tum the plecearound and cbamfertheother edge. TbisshouJd leavea-V."·wide nat on Ihe inside face of the leg. see Fig. 9. ROUND EDGES. Arter the legs are chamfered.! routed both oul$ideedges with a W' round-over bit; see Fig. 9. Pll..OTHOl.ES. The legs are joined to the comer blocks witl, a %"'
No. 64
®
9
ORJU~6· PI\OTHOlf
10
LEG
TQ·AOfPrt-l
Of 21n"
1 ';.a"
Pilot
IiO~
«NT~~D ON ntJCKNESS Of'ltG GlUECoaNEQ:
81.OtKAND SPUNE nuSh wmt TOP OF APROm
,
....
MAS()NfTt $PUNE
..
~ ;'''_16 x 5" KANGEll80LT
Woodsmith
WASHER _ ANONtn
7
SUPPORT ARM CARRIAGE With the legs (N) attached to the apron assemblY,1 started workingon thesupportcarriage which guides the supportarms (M). cur l'I.CIiS TO sIZE. AU the pieces (or the support carriage are made from :v."·thick stock. Start by cuntngfourcross braces (L) 2lh." wide by lo:Y.i" long. Next, cut two top braces (J) 2·wide by,29¥." long. Then cut a lower brace (K) 2" wide by 28\1.," long.
12
A'ITACB CRqSS BRACES.
Whe.n all the
pieces arecutto size, screw two o(thecross braces (L) to the inside faces of the side
aprons (G). see Fig. 13. Center the lirace on the length of Ihe apron and screw it to the apron sothe lopedgesare flush, see Fig.12a. !.OWER SIMCE. With the cross braces at· tached. tum ihe table over and screw the lower brace (K) to (he center of the cross
braces (L).seeFig.13a. table over-and screw uie two top braces 0) to the top of the aprons. They should be flush with the outsideofthe aprons and their edgesJlush with the ends of the cross braces (L). see Fig. 13. Next, slide the remaining two cross braces (L) between the top braces 0) and the lower brace (K) andscrew them in place. TOP BRACES. Nowturn the
C£NTt:R CROSS &RACtS ON
LfNGTH Of SIO£ APRON
a.
a.
TOP8RAC.E J
~ND VI~W
,.
"'I -TOP
_-
"'~..
BRACtS ~
CR._OSS .RACE
SUPPORT ARMS Thefour support arms (M) are the key to making Ibis table work. Since you want the leaves to slide up 10be level with the main top, I tapered the lOP edge o[ each arm so that the leaves are level with the lOPwhen extended. cur 'I1IE BlANKS.To make the support arms (M)'i>egin by cutting l:V."·thick stock. 2V4" wide by 49lh.·long.
curNOTCAF.S.llach arm isnolched so the theend closest 10the notch, see Fig. 14.The edging (0) on the table lOP can fit into it, taper starts 1#'2" in front of the notch and (See Detail in Exploded View.) Locale the tapers 10the end so irs 10/,,;,'wide. see Fig. l"-deep notches 2OYz'! in Fromthe end of the 15. Shop Note: J used Ihe taper jig featured support arms. see Fig. 14. To cut the notch. in lVoodsmithNo. 61. SOFrEN 1HE END. Next, file the bottom use thesame methodason the aprons (refer 10Fig.
TAPER STAATS 11h" IN FRONT OF NOTCM
14
..
SUPPO)!T ARM
15 SUPPORT ARM
TOP
i
~------------------49~· SUPPORT ARM
'''.
ROUND OVrR
NOTCH _DETAil
flU COA~(R TO A
8
ENDVJEW
:f." RADIUS
Woodsmith
•
No. 64
AnACHING
THE LEAVES Once the tapers have been cut on the
outside edge of the notches, see Fig. 170. With the leaf in place. slide it all the way AITACR 11IE l.E.~VES. Now, adjustlhe leaf into the table, Now .adiustthe tapered end of four support arms so irs centered On the support.arms. Using the am, so it's centered in the apron-notch, (M),screwholcsare No, Sx 111.1" woodscrews, attach the Jeafto see Fig, l7b, With the arm centered. reach drilled on the bot- thesupport aim auhe deepest counterbores under the table and screw in the rest of the tomsideofeacharm only. This allows' for adjusting the arm. screws through thearmsand into the leaves. so uhe support arm can be screwed to
lite leaves. ORlWNG11IEARJIIS. Begin by locatingthe shank holeson lite bottom side ofthe support arms (M). Thesethree holesarespaced Sl1!" apart, with thefirst hole located 2W' in fromthe naJ'!'OWend, sec Fig. 16. With the hole locations marked, place the taperedside ofthesupportarm face down on U,e
16
"".... COUNTER60R£
NOTE:
PLA(_t TAP[RCO StDJ! DOWN AGAINST IMtIU PRESS TAbU' ~6"SHANK MOll
DRIU H(5S TABU;
a
17
~8"bit so the screws can reach LIPinto the
leaf. But since the support ann is tapered. lite counterbores are at different depths, To gel the correct counterbore depth, set tile depth stop on lite drill press so the bOItom of the bit s(Qps J" from the table. Now, with the tapIJ>wljace of the arm still against the table, counterbore the holes, see Fig. 16. POSnl0N'I1J£ U!AVES.After the holes are counterbored, the leaves are positioned on the support rums. Begin by putting the arms in place in the table, so thatthe inside of the
notches in the arms arc flush with the out-
L!.~
(OO£R ON$UPPOK ARM
TOPVJ£W
l\ {NO APRON
lOP JS RfMOYED
KfEP
/9
ARMS PARAII"
n
NOTCH OUTSIDE IDGI OF APRON
PUT MIDDLE
..sCRlWS IN "'ST
side edge otthe apron, see Fig.17a. Now place a leaf (8) on lOP of the arms so tile inside edge of lite leal isllusb with the
® S"PPORT ARM
. ,.J
INSIDE Of "-II" ~' \..L.- fLUSH Wlnt
m II NOTE:
__EOG-£OF l£AfAND NOT(H . r· MUST BE FWSH
b
6
CENTtR ARM IN NOTCH, TIGmt"" REMAINING SCRoo .....
'.'~ LEAf....
~
,Noll L.: APRON
.~ "'(1;)'
....
l-l
TOP GUIDES .,
1\
Now that the leaves have been attached to the support rums, the last step on the table is 10 attach the
twoguides (0)
placing a piece of double-sided carpet tape On the guides and checking ihefit, Exceptfor applying the finish. the table is complete. The table leavesshculd slide out easily when lite table top is lifted.
10
the bottom of the table lop (A). These guides are what keep lite table lop from moving around, em TO SIZE. Beginning WiOl :Y:1"·~lick stock, cuttwo pieces 21o'.!"wide by 6%" long, With the guides (0) cut to length and width, cut a 45" tapered notch off each end, The taper is cut so there's a 2"·long nat lelton lite bottom of lite guide. see Fig. 20. After lite guides are cui out, rout a W' roundover on Ihe bottom and end edges. POSmONOF'IREGUIDES. With the guides completed, I located their position on the bottom side of the table top (A), First, locate the guides so U'ey're centered on the length of the table, sec rlll.1S. 111en, measuring from the inside of the
No. 64
side lop edging (C), mark lines 3<'8" in from either side, see Fig. 19. TESTTHE 1.OCAll0N. Sioce the guides ""(st fit between the top braces 0). llested their location before] glued them inplace by
18
UNGT'M OF 1HI TAeu:
-~
GUIDE (!!Tt::
¢::l NOTE:
Woodsmim
q
GUIDE PRfV[NTS TABU TOP FROM SHIftiNG
9
SOME
TIP
S
FRO
M
OUR
S HOP
Shop Notes CUnlNG
MORTISES
• What's the best W'dy10make a mortise? The method \IIC use is to drill" series ofholc~ to rough out tilC mortise, find then square up the ends with a chisel. So, what bit is best to use 10 drill the holes? Our favorite bits are made by Vermont American, They're available in three si= and reasollabll' priced, see page 24. (For more on mortising bits, see lI'ood6mitl. No, 26,) The design of this bit makes il ideal for dnltiol! mortises on a drill press. Uk. a Forstnerbit, it has a SCOnnlledge on the very
outside rim, This edge lessens
RPM for hardwoods.
I thinkthat's
the chance of Ihe bit wandering when drilling the overlapping holes needed (or a mortise. \Vith a twist bit or brad-polnt bit, the centerpoint tends to wander into
too fasL.llike to run these bits as slow as possible to keep from burning them up. On my drill press. that's 380 RJ)~1. ~F.NCE. Before drilling, I a previous hole. moum a fence 10 the drill press Unlike a Forstnerbit, ihe ver- [0 guide the boles for the mormont American bit 113$ a long tise in a straight line. However, Ilute. This allows chips 10 be When drilling the mortisesin the pulled out of a deep mortise. curved back leg of the Chair (m DRlUJ.SC SPEE!). One tI.ing this issue), I used a dowel stop you have towatch wilh these bits pin so Icould follow !he curve. is thedrilling SPeed, The instrucORlU.MOKJ1SES. To drill out a tions that come with the bit say mortise, start by drilling the end the best operating speed is 1100 holesto deline!he totallenglh of Then, come back and clean up any remaining ridges by moving drill a series of holes the blt upand down while sliding next to one another, the piece slde-to-slde, see Fig, 2, SQUARE €IoIl)S. Since the ends see Step 2. There will be afthe mortise are rounded, you have IWO options: You can some srnall rridges' alonll the sides of square up the end. with 8 chisel. the mortise. 1'0 re- Or. you can round over the move these ridges, edges of the tenon with a file or position the bn on chlsel, l Lhinkit's easier 10getan each ridge and CUIit accurate fit by squaring up the off, see SIep 3. ends of Ole mortise.
the mortise. see
Step I in Fig. 1,Then
2
CLAMPING BLOCK .\¥hen
Iwas building the Table
shown in this issue. I used comer blocks to join thecomers of the aprons and the legs to the
comer block, see
rag. 2.'1.
lines will form a right angle.) cur our BLOCK. All you need Then I cut along these lines to make the block is • scrap using a band saw. pieceof2x4 about 6" long. Begin Nler the notch has been cut by drawing two intersecting 45' out. I relieved the inside comer lines that start 1II trem each end. of the block 10direct the clampsee Step I in Fill. I. (I1.ose two ing pressure directly over the
apron assembly. The problem was how 10clamp the block (0 ihe "1)rOnS I0 get pressure where it's needed. The solution is 1 lO lise 8 clamping 1 block, see I'ig, 1. FufsT: ..... lllist1aml.ing block CUT MOCK FROM. 21i14 provides a surface that', parallcllo the comer block SOyou I' can use a C
1 ,-
2
fo t ....J,-!,,_ _,-_ 6'"-
splines, see Step 2. The retief also preventsthe block (romputting any pressure On the very end onhe aprons. Afterthe block lscuttc shape, use it (0 clamp the comer block to Ihe aprons, see J'o'ig.2.
a.
CLAMPlf
CI.,AMptNO
(IOCI!""K_-;;
...
» Woodslllith
10
,
No. 64
HANGER BOLTS .TIteTable au page 4 uses virtually no hardware. In fact the only metal pieces in (he table, are a few woodscrews and four hanger bolts. ''''hile there's nothing special about woodscrews, hanger bolts are not something Iuse every day. A hanger bolt has threads like a I,ag screw on one end and machine threads on the other end.
1
~-t6x-S" HANGER
80LT
1
..
I!!: .~,~ '
/
see FIg. 1. Hanger bolts come in a variety 01sizes. and I used one of the largest (W'-16 ,,5"). (For sources.see page 24.) You could use a 1'!8' screw to attach the leglo thecorner blocl< on the Table, burl used a hanger bolt for tWO reasons. first, the machine thread end of the boll allows you to remove thenur, and thenremove the leg.
SCREW IN MANGER BOLT UNTIL 211::1"'5 ~POSED
/.\,~
,TURN OOTtA NlITONLY
$ocm
the lOPnut is flush with the end. Afierthenutsaretightagainst each other. place a socket wrench over thetop nutonlyand tighten thehange: bolt into the leg. see Fig. 2. Then remove the nuts and fit the hanger boll through the comer block on the table and tighten a washer and nut ul)tight against the block. sec Fig. 3. CORNER SlOCK
WRtNCH
'J. F'D.
~
2
That's handy ifyou're moving or you have (0 replace the leg. the other benefit to hanger bcus is that if the leg becomes loose you can tighten up the nut. Thefirsttime Isawthis typeof bolt. I saw how it worked. but wondered how do I screw it in? The w.y Ido it is to double nut the threaded end. Start by turning two nuts onto the bolt until
-
"" JAM NUT
"('
NUT FLAT WASHER
TAPE CLAMPS .1was getting ready to glue the
Use a clamping pad to protect TAPE EDGrNG OOWN. When Now, move (he seeond clamp wood edging on the ends of the the tongue on the other end. see both clamps are in place, reach 4" farther away. tighten it, and Table (page 4) when I realized FIg. 1a. Then place a second for a roll ofrape. The tal1f!luse is apply another piece of tape, see that I only bad one clamp long clamp about 4" from the first called filament packaging rape. Fig. 2. Continue moving the enough to reach the full length Shop Note: If you don'l have (It has fiberglass-strands in it.) clamp and taping until you reach of the table. long enougbclamps (I only had This tape is very -strong and the end ofthe piece. Since the edging doesn't re- one) you can overlap thejaws of doesn't stretch. When the glue is dry, remove quire a lotof pressure J was able two short clamps as shown in First, wrap" &' piece ot tape the clamps and tape, then aJ)J)ly to get by using one long clamp, FIg. 1. I wrap the jaws with tape tightly boom the top of the table the next piece of edging USing two short clamps and some to keep them frOID coming apart. around the edging, see Fig. I. the same procedure. packinglllpe. FIT EDGING. I 1 OVERlAP SHORT found il best to miter andglueonepieceof .edging at a time. Start by mitering a piece so the miters FIRS1:PO$mON CI.AMP NEAR IND align wid' the ends of the plywood top. ClAMPING. 0 nee lfAVE FtRST ,LAMP IN the edging' fits, rePOsmON move it aod apply glue to the inside face. Then clamp it in place USinga long clamp about 2" from the end, see FIg. 1.
No. 64
Woodsmith
11
FEATURE
PROJECT
Ladder- Back Chair Chairs aren't as difficult to build as you might think. The trick is to use a template to cut the curved back legs and slatS on the band saw and router table. Then the legs are joined with mortise and tenon joinery .
B
uilding chairs: juSI the thoughl of it brings out a certain uneasiness in many woodworkers. Okay. 111admit this chair isn'l the easiest project we've ever fe", tured. But it isn't the most difficull either, AI6rs~ the curved back leg and back slats may seem inlimidating. Bul Ihey're f"i!iy easy 10cui by using a template 10rOUjlhout theshape on a band saw. Then use the snme template to smooth then. on a router table. JOINERY. I found the process of building the chairs 10 be 1110retime-consuming than it was difficult. It look me aboullOO hours 10
12
complere a SCt of six chairs. There are 22 mortise and tenon joints on each chair. h may appear as though you have to CUt angled tenons on the back slats. see Exploded View. Thai's not the case. All of the tenens are CUIstraighl. on Square stock. Then, after tile tenons are cut. the stock is CUt on a curve with the band saw. DESICN.The thing I like most about this chair is silting in it. The curved back allows the slats 10filthe shape of my body. And ifs • comfortable angle - straight enough for eating.yet comfortable forsitting.
Woodsmith
WOOD. The chairs have a contemporary. Danish modern design. Usingoakenhances the centemporary feel. However, by using mahogany or walnut, the chairs would take
on a more formal. traditional appearance. IIPIlOI.STERY.Woodworking is nol the only challenge when building. chair. you also have 10 upholster the seat, On J>age 19 we show how lOupholster the seal (without bunching at the comers). FlNISJI.To provide a durable finish. I aJ)o plied Iwo coats ofsatin polyurethane 10each chair. sanding lightly between coats,
No. 64
LEG TEMPLATE
EXPLODED VIEW
. ,"'.
••
t
..
j-
~"
BACK SLATS
,
o
--
TtMP1..A'fE GRID DIVIDED INTO
,. SQUARES
r
,
.
SEAT SIDE RAILS
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•
FRONT LEGS
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OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 17"3tJ,'" W x 38"H
8 I'fontLegs(2) C SOOt Side 1loI1s(2) ~ x 2- t.~ D l.owelSld&Ro"s(2)~x 1·1'~ E 8ock5eoiRoft(l) F F.ont5eotRoII(l)
~x2·16h
G Bock5101.(5) H 8ockCleot(l) I SOOt (1)
1Y" X 1¥.· 161'> ¥•• ¥.·15 ¥. ply. 15lt. X 15'/.
CUnlNG
~.2-151~.
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»" C.5 ad. ft.l
No, 64
• • • •
UPHOLSTERY • IS' X IS' plGCO2' loom
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LUMBER FOR ONE CHAIR
DIAGRAM
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,
SUPPLIES
IIiI.x'·39f91t Ihx Ih·lm
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LOWER SIDE RAILS
fRONT LlGS
A Bocklegs(2)
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fRONTfDG(
MATERIALS LIST
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AllMO'''SlS---J== l'J'I." FROM
SEAT RAIL
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2"·
AlSO NtlD 2." • PltG( __J_ Of 1)."' PlYWOOD fOR StAT
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13
I began building the chairs by making a template (or the back leg. The ternplate is used as a
guide 10 cui bOlh back legs 10 the " same shape. and 10 L..---IIT-----' lay ourthe monises. lAY OOT 1'£MPlAn:. To make Ihe ternnlate, lay euuhe shape or the leg on apiece of \4" Masonlte 4" x 38". O'ollow the grid drawing on page 13. or send ror the full-siee pattern. see page 24.) Also lay out the tecauens of the.moruses for the back SIaIS and back seat rail NOle thaI the start and stop points 01these mortises are drawn square 10the back edge 01 the template. see Fig. J. CUTl'ING1'£"PIA1'£. Afler the mortises (Ire layed out. Icuuhe template a little oversize 00 the bandsaw, sec Fig. 2:I1I.n l carefully filed and sanded down to the line. MOR'llSES. Since the templale is used as a guide for the mortises. I drilled ouuhe mortises on the template, To keep the mortises a consistent distance from the curved front edge onhetemplate.I used adowelpin SlOP clamped 10the drill press table. see Fig. 3. STOP.To make Ihis SIOI>.drill a %" hole in
2
CUT TtMPLATt $UGHTlY OVfRS':UO~ mtNRll TOUNI
"('IAINCI
cur
OUT ROUGHLY
,
1/.... OVIRS.ZfD
----'fASTfN lfMPlAn TO 8LANK W1THDouaU'SIO(o
a piece of ~4"plywood and insert a short length ol%"o([i•. dowel. Now. clampthe ply. wood 10the drill press SOthe dowel is 1/16" behind the back edge 01the bit. see Fig. 3. Toalign the Slop. mark a refereneelineon the plywood straighl out from the center of the dowel. As the plywood base is clamped down. align the center 01the bit on this line. ORJ.U.i\IORl1S~.Now the rnortisescan be roughed cut on the drill press. (For more infonnation on drilling mortises, see Shop Notes. page 10.)As each holeisdrilled, keep the front edge of the template against the stop pin. and the back edge 90' to the reference line on the plywood base. see F,g. 3. CUT OIIT LEG. When Ihe template is completed. you can begin work on the back leg)! (A). I was able to get two back legs OUI crone IVt6"blank Ih81 measured Sv.." by 39" (see lbe Cutting l)illgnlJll Onpage 13).
HallS
UNf
CARPETTAPC
Start by Iastening the template to the blank with double-sided carpellape. Then roughly cut out one leg about V." oversize. see r,g. 4. (Save the waste fortheolherleg.) Next, Icut out the leg exactly 1'16" overSil.
5
fRONTEOGf
Non:
the same lemplale - bui rhe mortises have lO be cut into opposite faces. To do this. I stuck the template on the back side 01the blank. The" (,'01out thesccond leg lollowing the same procedure as the firsllcg. MOR'TISI3S. After both legs are cut out and the mortises ouUined. you can drill the m out USing' thl! same stop jig and procedure used on the template. Theonly difference is these mortises are W' deep. see Fig. 6. These moniscs will be siightlycun'ed becausethcyfollowtheCUf''eorthelcg(sortof a cooked hOI dog shape).To get the tenon 10 fil. Use a chisel 10square the front edge ofthe mortise to a straight line. see Fig. 7. Also square up uie ends of the mortise.
7
$UGHTLY PARI fRONT SIDI10 SQUARf UP CUIVt IN MOmsI'
\' SQUARE UPENO$ WITH ' ....
SI[ P.I.fOR _UG lOflNAl.$1U
(lusa
~-''''''K MORT1SE$ 8UCR.
fRONT 1,001
.£MOVING ltMPLAlt
Woodsmllh
L4
•
No. 64
BACK LEGS
CONnNUED
After drimn~ out five mortises for the slats and one for the back rail. you can begin laying out the mortises 011 the J;"mt edge of each back leg. These mortises will hold the side seat rail (C) and lower side rail (D). MORTISE IAYOl1l'. The trick is to layout the mortises so they will beatthe exact same location on both legs, Begin by laying one leg down on its side at the end of a bench.
Then lay down a frarning square so one ann of the square is Ilush with the end of the bench and the other arm rests against the ilatsectiOQ on the front of the leg. see Fig. 8.
Now measure up 12'1116" and 150)'16"from scrap block under the mortise locations to the end of the framing square to mark the raise the leg up.off the drill press table. see bottom of the mortises.The lower mortise is Fig. 9. (Stick the block to the legwith doubleW'long and the upper one 1%"Iong. sided carpet tape.) DRIll our MORTISES. To drill out these Now, drill ~8"-deep mortises. moving lbe mortises, start by clamping a straight piece spacer block along with the leg as you driU. of 2x4 to the drill press taille as a fence, see Complete the mortises by squaring up lbe Fig. 9. Po~ition the fence so the \I," bit is ends with. chisel. centered on the thickness ofthe leg. ROUND OVER EDGES. When all Ute morSince the back of the leg is curved. there tises arecui in the back leg, the only step left isn'ta longenough flat spoton it to allow the is-to round over Ute edges and ends. To do leg to sit down flat on the drill press table. I this. use a WI' round-over bitset :Vi6" high in solved this problem by putting a 5'.long Ute router table, see.Fig. 10.
',,' SCRAP UNO!R
I
MORTIS(5 TO l£VtL lfG
nUSH£NDS
At th is point.
the back legs CA) are complete. Now you
can begin work on the froot legs (B).
It's critical lbat the mortises in the front legs align with those in the back legs. CuTtING Tl\E .PlEeES. Start making the front legs by cutting out two blocks J 'W' square by 1m"long. MOROSE lAYour. Once the blocks are cut
to size. layout two v.."·\videmortises on the
back face of each leg to iOln to the side-rails (C, 0), see Fig. n. These mortises are located the same distances (12:Vt6· and J5¥JG") from the bottom end ofthefront leg
11
CUT ~ORnS£$1.tI6FROM 001$10£"
'''''(5
(8) asthe two mortises on the back leg (A). Note thatthemcrtlsesareeet centered on
2x4 as a fence to the lop of the drill press
the thickness. but '/16" from (he outside edge ofeach leg. (Here's where you have 10 start tltinking of the two front legs.as arnirrored set.) After Ute mortises are layed out on the back face of each teg. layout a 1%".long mortise on the inside face of each leg tojoin to Ute Irent seat rail (I'), see Fig. 11. Locate these mortises 14'1116" up from the bottom end of the legs, ?l16" from the outside edge. And be sure they face each other, (/\gain. so you end up with a mirrored set Q!legs.) cur MOtmSES. Now you can drill out all the ~6"-deep mortises on the drill press. (As before, to help position Uw mortise in relalion to the edge of Ute leg. clamp-a straight
When you drill Out (he mortises on adja· cent sides, the bottoms will break through very slighUy into each other, see F'tg. 11. 111arS okay, the tenonswiU be cutback later where Uteymeet. ROUND OVER EDCF.5. After squaring up Ole mortises witb a chisel. I rounded over the edges and ends of the (ront tegs on the router table. First, round over the two edges nearest the mortises with a V4u round-over bit set :V,6" high, see Steps 1 and 2 in·Fig. 12. Then ...aise Ihebitlo [out a full '14" roundoveron Oleinside edge (Step3) and both top and bottom ends. Finally. switch to a W' round-over bit and rouuheoutsideedge.see Step4.
NOTE: MAKE FRONT trGS A MIRRORED SET
12
table)
OPPOSITE
1
(" es
"'.
2
4
ROUND-
OVOlSrT
3 Sfl'fUl1
No. 64
Woodsmith
15
BACK SLATS Afler the legs are complete you can begin working 01) the back slats (G). Each slat iscutto the curved shape from a l%"·thick block. cer-ro SIZF.. Start by cutting five blocks of l:v.,"·thick stock to a width of lW' and lengtjl of 16\1!'\ see Fig. 13. COT'rENONS.Irseasiest to cut Ole¥4"·long offset tenons on the ends of Ole back slats before cutting the slats to shape. To do this, first ...aise a 1:j0u13"wide. 10 get the. curve, strike and cut a 36"· radius arc on the template. Shop Note: To strike the radius, I made a trammel point [rom a long strip of Masonite. see Fig'. 15. cur ARC ON BLANK. After the arc on the template has been filed smooth, attach the template 10 the top of the slat blank with double-sided carpettape, Besure to face the arc on the template to (heft',n! 01 the blank. (lbat's the facenea.:esvthe!Al" offsertenon.) Now, ClII out Ihe curved 1r01,ltrace of the slat VIS"from 'he template all the band saw, see Fig. 16. (Use !he same guide ann and technique used to cui out the back legs.) Then mark the (ronledge of the template on the blank and remove the template, To remove the last >')6" up to the line, I used araspanda drum sandertosmooth the frontface onallfive slats. see Fig. 17. cur Il.~GI
16
13
-----'CUT OfiP RAB8tT BACK SLAT (CtJtAvt
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15
BACK SlAT TEMPLATE C.ENTIRUNE
.... " MASONJTE TRAMMEL POJNT
FAlliN TEMPLATE TO&£N<;KwnH
CA_PET TApr
roo'
SQOA.t TtMPLAT£ TO C(NTERUNf
lOCAlE fflOT
NAIL S1UIGHT DOWN FROM CENnR or TOOLATt
DON'T ROUND OvtR tENONS
ROur·V."'--~OUNQO,!fR O~AU. FOUR t:'DGts
Woodsmith
•
ON8ACK FA~E
PJECH)
No. 64
SEAT RAILS Next. you can make the seat- rails and
side rails. I started
by resawing.enough wood for the four seat rails and two
lower side rails to
¥B" Ulick.
cerro SIZE.Now, cut all of the seal rails 2" wide-andthelower side rails 1" wide.see Fig.,20,Asfor length. the seat side raiJs-(C) and the lower side rails (D) are both CuI14W':long,
20f f I .1_
,. r r,
.-~
NOTE:
AllllAflS
tao THICK
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(0", '1[«1
1.s1~."
® fRONT .
SEAT RAIL
jONf"PlfC!)
14~
© SEAT SIDE RAILS (TWO PIECES)
@ LOWER SIDE RAilS
NOTCH
1"" ",.'
~C®,
~~!2 -
0
.'\NOCFlt\,\r""ER ttNONS. There
are
a couple more things thai have 10 be done before assembly. When the rails are mounted into the legs. the tenonsonheseat side rails (C) will run into the back and front seat.rails (E,F), see Fig, 21. To solve this problem at the back leg. I notched the bottom olthe tenons Onthe seal siele mils, Since the overlap at tile front is very slight. you only need 10 chamfer the tenons ofthe-side and front see t rails.
8AC'KlfO
NOTCH 80nOM OF.,sIDl·srAI RAJI.TtNON WHOtt ff MOTS lACK SEAT RAIL T£NON
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NOTE:
1/.... ROUNDOvtR
ON AU FOUR lOGES
(TWO PIECES)
ASSEMBLY AND SEAT
, ~~-~~~:~T~o~P~V~'~EW~===::-1
Iclampingeach started assembling the ebai"by gl,\inganci side independently. Connect ~ the fronl and back legs witb tile side rails checking Ibat the assembly is square. Ailerthe side units are Jlry,glue tile front and back railsand the backslatsbetween the side units to complete thechair. (ShopNote: I assembled the chair on top of my table saw since it's the flattest surface in m~shop.) CLEAT. The plywood seat is mounted to a back cleat (H) that's glued to the frontface o! the back seat rail (E). see Fig. 23,To al· tach the seat, drill screw holes through Ule back cleat and thefront seat rail (1,'). SEAT. The last piece 10 make is Ille ~." plywood"..t(l). see F1g.22.rt'scultoover· bang .Ill" on the front) but leave ~!! space between the sides and comers oftheseatfor the upholstery. (For more on the upholstery, see the article on page 19,) Before upholstering the seal rout a \r.t.. ~ roundoveron the top and bottom edges and . ';.;,,1 ~l!roundoverunderthe (ront edge. see F.ig. 24. Finally,after finishing the chair, screw the upholstered seatin place.
No. 64
with a V." rouud-overbircn Ole router table. refer to Fig, 19,
21
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,
14\0\."
I"
t
1"-J ...
.....
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r
® BACK SEAT RAIL
f
lJ:a
a.
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il
The back seat rail (E) is cut the same length as the back slals (l6W'), Since rhe front legs are thicker.than the back legs, the front-seat rail (E) is 0/11;" shorter (151¥l."). ecrrexexs. Mer aliofthepieces are cui to length, nextcut~'''.long tenons centered on !neendsofall tile rails. sec Fig. 20a. CUi the tenons to thickness and width to fit the mortisesin lhelegs (l%"·widetenonson the seat rails and %(l~wide_tenons on the lower side mils), ROUND OVER EDGES. Next, round over all four edges of each rail (but not the tenons)
23
,
)~8x lin"! "' S(lI:£W
._ --
I,.....
I ,
-- 8E1WE£N'SEAT _ AND SlOE RAILS
SEAT
_
'/.... THAN DISTANCE 8FTWEtN RAllS
I.,..~
SPACE ATCORN£RS
\Voodsmith
17
TECHNIQUE
WOODWORKING
Using Templates T
so it's raised up high enough to rub against the template, not the rough edge of the
he trick to making uniform curvedback legs fOrille chairs (shown in litis issue) is to use a template. the template makes culling out lite pieces a simple twostep operation on a band saw and router table - a process that produces all the piecesyou want withthee.xactsame shape.
V4'! Masonite to make
1E~lPlAm.I used
lite template.
workpie-ce. The trick to this ann is to round the end. and then cut a notch for your blade toJilin. (Icuta %" notch for the V." band saw
It's an inexpensive.
hard
material that doesn't 113vevoids or knots,
and you can easily work a SD100th edge on it. lAY 0111' PATl'ERN. Start by laying out the pattern of the chair leg on the Masonite. (Use the projec(s grid dr",wiog. see page l3.) Another method is to euta full-size pattemout of paper and glue itrightto the Ma· sonite, Then cut out the.shape slighUy oversize. and carefully file right up to the line. 1V0RKcwtEFUILY.Any notchesor gouges on theedgeottheternplatewillshowup later on the finished pieces. SO it's important to take-the time to work the edges smooth. Ir'snot critical your templateisexactly the same as the pattern. If the curve is slightly different. that's okay. All yo"r legs will he identical- Uleywill match you" template, CIlI11N&'l'O SHAPE. Afler the template is made, attach itto theleg blankwifh doublesided carpet tape. Then, ve.ryroughly bandsaw Ibe leg out of iheblank -so it's about 14" larger than the template. GUlO.tARM MU$f.
1
STfCKAaoVE
a.
Ne>..1,cut the shape again, but this time carefully-so it's\l16'! oversize. (Since thenext step is to rout the leg to exact size, there's less chipout when only routing off 116".) Al· thougb you can make this cut freehand, I clamped a "guide 311n" 10 the band saw to
make a more precise cut.
The arm ls made from a piece of V," Masonite glued to ihe top of .l~"·thick block. see Fig.}, The ami is mounted to the block 1;."
MASONITt
ARM
2
blade Iused.) Now clamp the guide 3rDl1O the tableso the bladeis V's" Jromthe outside edge ofihe curved end, see Fig.la. To cut out Uteleg. push the leg blank so the template rubsa,gainsothcguide arm, see F'18'. 2. As you're cutting, move the r,ailend of the blank to the righl or left to keep Ute template parallel to the blade. ROlTI1NGTO f'tNALSHAPE. After the workpiece is cut oversize, you can routoffthe last V.ls't wtrh a flush trim bit on ihe router table. (I'or soureesotflush trim bits, seepllge24.) Wilb the template still taped to lite top of the workpiece, raise ti\e bitup untilthe beariog rides Oil lite edge of the template, see Stel) 1 ill Fig. 4. Then rout in a clockwise direction around the bit. see Fig. 3. Since the Oush trim bit I used only has a 1"·Iong cutting edge aod Ute leg is IV,,;" thick.Ihad to lowerthe'bitto makea second cut. see Step 2 in Fig. 4. (Note: You have.to use a v.."..shank Hush trim bit when routing a piece Ibis thick. The shank of a ~"·shank bit would mb against the workpiece on lite fil!Stcut)TheOush trim bit will cutthe legto the exactshape ofthe template.
&ANOS'AW
NOli:
KEEP1tMPlAlt
MASONITtl
PARAlliL TO SlADt:
TlMPiATIi
WORKPttCI! BI;ANK (·ClAMP
FIRST CUT lEAVES "'0" SHOULD£1l ON BOTTOM
8ANOSAWN
.OG.
I.OwOt Stf ~ND TRIM Off SHOULDER WITH $ECQN'I)
dJT
, j
(1/1'- OVQs.Zf)__.,.....
'lUSH TRIM BIT
18
1CIIP flNGIRS (lEASt OF arT
Woodsmirh
No. 64
TECHNIQUE
Upholstery I
know\,eryliUleaboulfabricandfoarn.So when it came time to upholster the chairs. I went to a local upholstery supplier
for information and materials. As usual. there was more to leam than I thought. FOAMCUSIIION.The foam we used on the chairs is 1I0t foam rubber. foam rubber is latex robber. which is made from the sap of the rubber tree. The foam I used on the chairs is polyurethane foam which is a synthetic product. There are IIvce different densities of polyI
urethane foam: low. medium. and high. The higher the density. the less likely you are to "boltom OUI"when you sit on It. High density foam also will not break down as fast as low density foam. I used high density foam to make the cushions (or Ihechairs. I'AllRlC. 111e fabric we used on the seals also has some special features. First. the back of the tabric hasa surface coating on it. This surface coating keeps the weave of the fabric (rom being distorted when it's stretched tight.
-r AOUNOOvtlt
Secondly. we wonted a fabric that would stand up well to everyday use but, would look appropriate in a diningroom, The fabric we used is a nylon/pclyester blend. 111e thread size is fairly large and the weave of the fabric i. miller loose, which gives the seat a son texture and allows the air 10 escape (roon the foam when you sit down, To gel professional quality results. Isuggest you go to a upholslery shop or a fabric store and ask (or materials thai are intended specifically for upholsteoy.
'., ,.
nu
TlUANO-UL,A. _ Sl(1'IQN POINr
on
, •• ROtlNDOV£. 'OAM
Before !tll/wl.lering plywood, 1"01"ul Clft ;l,"·t,/tick foam 2· 11Jid6" Nex!.• tilt III. ba..d Raw table to SQ' 1 al! ,uit!l, 14 ",)"Ol'fzdover 2 1ll>lgor til a". 111'11'1»00(186"t. Tllis 3 a"d bevel.each .dgr 0}'11I8fo",,,.Start }\'O>l( bot 10m edge witl! ,'O.",d01l<)r. ltaw, t" OlJot'htl.t1(/O,teoch 8ide. YO.lea" the be.,.t righl 0" th_ ~.rtrc",. o"laide edge al~(i
OlM,'
OliUt'S
a'1ld
V2'
(l
TItCll/ilc poilll on-bollomfro"t ""nlC1'.
ofthefoam.
cltttl!6folJlltea.ily <»~theba>odkit"'.
SMOOTH OUTSLDI cultvt AntJt ~"OLSltIlllNG"
- CUTSUT
l--...,..:u::....
.
{_
'.;
.,' ,) "'_000
CUI RICfANGU OUT OF Q.OI CORH Ell:
rOAM
room i8 placed all lopoflhesetU1uith. Cut (. pi"". of fabric to a .l.I" ., ~4" CellI('/' tI·.I(/(lm and the plywood on 4 the bcv,tfacillg dOWICUmUt-ctating .qua,· e, 1'0 keep tn» fabric from 5 6 110.back .i
eaclt COrlLt.tr, UIClt Illit a pul! tab.
fabric I/wtltave lite ~III'uu«
CORNER TAa
I
t>U.. CORNERTAa .... TOWAIO CDfIIR AND STAPtI OOWN
TAC"DOWN ~DU '1l.ST
lkgirtftillg ..oith Ihelridu. p~h down J\'ow P"U Ih.~corner labs in iolcaro lI'ith tht lalla .Iap/td do.... , .treW> 7 IAr plyw.otland plIJUhefobm lip 8 the center of the plllwood_ Lop the 9 th. "mailling fabric m'()lLnd Ihe OI.d over the plylOood.. Use a s14ple to conw-tabsol .....I/"'.I"pltd..rownfa;,ric.so fronta>od back of thoplll~oood.S14pledowlt Oil
glU!
IQ(k thAf.bric ill plate every 2"OrS'.
No. 64
the laid i.ilt I)" 110lch.Stapl. 14b dowll.
Wooosmirh
fabric
wform
(}crea •• at Ihe ""rller.
19
DESIGN
ALTERNATIVE
Formal Dining Chair A
up the first cut on the slat blank, Attach the templatealong one
lier building the setotladder-baek chairs shown on page 12. [ decided to modify the design and build another style wuh vertical slats.The basic constru ction of (Ids eh ai r is very similar. but changing the direction and size 01 the back slats gives the chair a more traditional or formal look - especially when iI's built with • dark wood like the Honduras mahogany chair shownherc. CONSTRtlCTIOl
edge 01 the blank with doublesided carpet tape so the top end of the template Slicks out 1718" beyond the end otthe blank. sec Stel>1. MAKE J'IRST CUT. Next, 1 clamped ule guide arm 10 lbe band saw 10 make I". initial cut away from thetemplate, see Step 2. (illis is the same guide arm used 10 cut out the back legs. see page 18.) Once the oversize cut was made along the front edge ofthe template, I switched to Ihe
"'6"
rcutertablctecteaaupthebaadsawn edge. This is done with a flush trim bit mounted so the pilot bearing rides along the edge of the lemplate and routs the leg smooth. sec Slep 3. CIJTTOTIIICKNESS.Now thaI you have established the Iront contourorthe first SIal.the trick
are vertical rather than horizontal, you don't need four of the mortises (Ihe middle four) on the back legs. '11c lOPand bottom mortises, though. arc still needed in exactly uie Same locations to hold the back lOP rail (G) and the back seal rail (E) in place.
is CUlling the back race to the same ShallCso the Sial will be a
(These two pieces are made
slighlly differenl on the vertical Sial chair. There's more explaoation about these pieces on page 22.) HACK SLATS. All six back slats (H)are cut out 01 one blank 01 1", .. -thick stock that measures 6V,' wide by 2O¥,'long. see Step I. The Irick is following the correct cutting
sequence 10gel nIl six stais out oHbe blarik so each sial ends up the exact same thickness and shape. USE HACKlEG 1Y..\lPIATE.Since the six slats lollow the same contour as the back legs, you can usethe back leg templatetc set
uniform thickness. To do this. start by removing the template from the blank and also remove the original guide arm from the baodsaw. Then make a new guide block with a pointed end. see Step 4. CIa.mp this guide block 10the band saw table so it's'¥t&" away from the blade. Now. you dID CUtthe back edgeoltheslatbypushingthefronl (routed) edge against the guide block The sial ",ill
1«(1' TlMPl.An 'ARAWL
BACK SLAT BLANK
WITH 8LADI
NOTE: AnA<::H TtMPlATt 10
'''C'KLtG
TlMJ'
IlANJ(
Kl(' I[AIUNG
WITHDOuw·stom
AOAIN'T~n
CARPnT....
ON
".Sf
PASS,---=::::":A
To mokt the back 8lal$, atan b!l Clamp a guide onll to tM bond sow Totrimtdge/lu.h wilht.",plat.e. sse 2 jlUJJhtrim bit ill ",w..,.tobleand run 1 fa.l.6l1illg th. back leg I.6mplat.eto a uitk btode.. t bock VII"inside« no(elt 3 beari"g again,t temptal~.Si,tce stock is blank Ofllll."·thick .tock ,uith double· ine>ldof gllid,o,.",. TIll'" <:I'tfrollttdgeof
• ided carpet tape.
20
slat by .·"bbing lemplalt 010'19 arm. WO
Ihick,IOI''''''bit alld mok •• "",,,,d pa8$ •
No. 64
end Ul) a uniform WIS"thickness. and the back lace will follow the same contour as the front face. RE.I'E'lT'ntESffirs. To gel anotherslat out of the blank. just reJ)eal these steps. FIrst reattach the. template so it's inside the cut edge of the blank and trim it nush on the rouler table (repeal Step 3). Then remove the template and cut off another WI6"·Oiickslat (Step 4). Continue this process until all six slats have been cut lrom the blank. SMOO1"RR'CKFACE.Allhispoint,the slats should belairlyunilorm in thickness. but the back races will be rough from the band saw cuts.I smootlwd the back faces with asanding drum on the drill press. see-Step 5. To do this, clamp the guide block (with lbe pointed end) to the drill press table W away from the outside of the sanding drum. Then feed the slats ara steady rate between the drum and the guide block. The goal here is not only to remove the band saw marks, but (0 be sure Ute slats are sanded to a uniform W'thick (especially at the ends). later, the ends fit into W'm6r· uses.It the slats are too thick, they won't fit in, and if too thin. the fit will be sloppy. ROUNDOVE.REIlGES.After allthe slats are.
BACK SLAT RAIL CROSS SECTION I
K BACK
SlAT
,
, l=-
A B C D
~K
CUAT
E
F G
H I
J
•
lvl/
FRONT'UGS
·t 8AC.K Sf AT RAIL
CUnlNG
IkK:klegs (2) rlt,.·x 4 • 39 rgh. Fr""tLegs(2) l~x 1~·17~ SeatS/deRol~(2)%x2-·14\'2 LowerSideRails (2)% x 1· ld\'.! BockSeotRolI(l) ~.x2-161~ FrontSeatRoll~n % x 2· 15'~'. Boc1 x 1'/16 -:20¥. BOCk·Cf
FRONT SlAT RAil
//'
sanded smooth. round over all four edges with a \I.." round-ever bit on the router table. see Slep 6.
MATERIALS LIST
I
\ r.-'.....,
i'.
.,
11A," x
I§ r""··
OVIRAU DIMENSIONS: 17""~'I\Y.lC 3a"H
DIAGRAM
6V." . 60" f3.3 3d. Fr.}
S!to·
~l
'G'i" 11.3 S.d.
ALSO NfED 24"
x
:I
~
'J
H
24" PIECE.Of ~~.. PLyWOOD FOR SlAl
9J'I6" fROM
GUIO£ 8UXK
KEEP
8W>'
PARALI.l'L WfTH
fRONT fACE OF StAT
To cu; a 8Iat'of'ltltiforrJ~thickness, allsi" bMk .urt8 are.cut, sand over aU edullS of /!(leI!. 4 owmp 5A/I6r !ofinaUJricknes. /)yfeedin{j thembe6Romul. bacJ,; slat 1.it" a V,s" /'(>I",d·ove,·bitoil. !Jltideblock 1))itkapointed.end '/16" o:wq.y from IiUJ aatll blade. TIll{/!trim. tween, d)'lt"n sauder a1zd a guide block !Ire roiaer roble. Rout1Uil" liz. pie<6 on !
off sfqJ, ool...e"" gil/Weblock and blade.
No. 64
(l,
cia.mpedto the drill!>ress table. Wooosmith
edq.k.epingji""
ere au>ayfrom tIL_bit.
21
BACK RAILS To mount the back slats, the back rails have to be made a little thicker than those on Ute ladderback chair. BACK SEAT RAIL-
FITSt, cut the back seat rail (E) 2" wide and long.but leave it a full 'l'4" thick. see Fig. 7. Then cut ~4"·long tenons on both endsof the rail. BACKTOPR!IJ.L. Next. cut the curved back BACK SEAT RAIL
top rail (G) following the same procedure used for the back slats Oil the ladder-back chair (refer to page 16).bUI make it thicker by setting the pointed block I~'G"from the band saw blade. Mter filing il smooth, this will make the back lOP rail aboui :y." thick, see Jlig. 7. lAY our MORTISES. After these two rails are cut.Iay out the mortises for the vertical slats. To do this, align the two rails and use a square to mark the mortises directly across from each other.see Fig. 7. ORlLl..\OR't1SES. Now drill out V.~'~leep
mortises with a W' bit on the-drill press. Since the backseat rail (E) is straight. clamp a straightedgeto the.drill press tableto keep thernortisescentered on theworkpiece. But on thecurved top rail (C) you wiU have to run the workpiece against a dowel stop pin as when mortising the back legs, see Fig. 8. ROUND OVER .DGES. Mter the mortises are drilled (don't square them up), round overthe edgesoflboth rails with a V,,'! roundover bit, see Fig. 9. Then fit the slats into the moruses.Ittbeyre too tight, you may have to slighUy shave the ends, see Fig. 10.
ALIGN ENOS OF RAILS AHO LAYOUT
MORlIS(S WrTH SQUARl!
9
ROUN. AU fOUR
_£s
BACK SEAT RAIL AND SACK
lOP. RAfl
NOTE: DO NOt SQ.UARE UP ENDS OF MORTISES
ASSEMBLY AND SEAl Wbenall Ule )jack slats fit into lhe mortises, the cb.air can be assembled. ASSEMBLY. Start by gluing a from leg, side rails. and back leg to (orm a side unit. After assembling the other. side unit, set both units aside to dry. Next, dry assemble the vertical back slats (H) into the back rails{G,E). Theslatsarent glued in since Lhere isn't anywhere they can go once-the chai{ is assembled. Now fit the back assembly and front seat rail (F) between the side units, see Fig. 11. To keep lbe chair Silting a.at I placed the chair on top of my table saw. U,\CK CL£>\T. After the chair is assembled, glue. back cleat (I) to the front face o( the back seat rail (E), see Fig. 13. Position the cleat so it'sJ,l.j"down (rom thetonedgeofthe back seat rail. SEAT. Since the plywood seat(J) on this chair has to fit lll.side the back slats, i\,s cut shorter (14%'1) than the ladder-back chair and rests on the cleat; see FIgs. 12 and 13. After the .!>air is finished and the. seal upholstered, the seat can be screwed down 10the cleat and froot rail.
22
11
121
SECOND: DRY A$SEMau;
:
BACKSLAlS INTO RACK
NOleH
.~ PLYWOOD
5<£ '·
RAIls
,
ASSfM6Lf
$10( uNns~-...
•,
,
,.
· 13
is ,
AROUND t.£GS
14 ... lit"
FIRST:
.. '.,,"
SPACE';
1-
OYfRHANG l,."
i~/
LtSS
~N,04STANCE BawtEN Slot RAIlS 14?1i"
CRQSS SECTION
THIRD: ASStM8Lf BACK
NOTE:
UNIT aETWEtN
WOR.KONA FlAT SURFACe.
SIDE UNITS TO COMPI..ETI!CHAIR
Wooosmith
•
,
.
No. 64
COMMENTS
•
AND
QUESTIONS
Talking Shop MORTISING:
ROUTER VS. DRILL PRESS
'''8,,-
table and save all the trouble? There area number ofproblems ally s}UJW mortise8 bei17gClltO" a. drill 111'68$1 Ha.ve 'ito" co>l- you can encounter when cutting sidered. C1/,Ui'lJ} them: Ott the mortises onthe router I,1tier table by plunging th« DEP1l-IWtITt\TIONS. First, the l(:ood piecedoum. 011.tire bi't? mortise is limited in depth 10tne Jolm H. Righi length 01your router bit and how Onekama, Michigan high the bit will stick above. the top of your router table.Adrill bit Without a doubt, it'seasier to gel can usualJycut adeepermortise. .a cleo ne~'mortise with a router REPE.~TPASSES. Next, unless bit. But I sliU usually drililhem the morlise is shallow. you will out by making a series of holes probably baveto rout il.in anumwith the mortise bit and tech- ber of successively deeper nique shown on page 10 of this passes to keep from buming. issue. Then I clean up the Ifyou have 10 make a number eheekscnhemorusebymeking' ofpasses, sometanesthesecond repeated cuts with the mortise pass is cut.in a sUghUy diffetenl position from the first pass (rebit. or I use a sharp chisel. So. why not use the router sulting ina stepped,mortise). • Why tloe» 'Yoodsmilh
This happens
with some
arr CONCJ;:RJSS. Pinally, mOSI standardstraight routerbits (explay io the depth tightening cept spiral end mills and special mechanism. As you increase the mortising bits) are made to cut depth of Cui and retigHlen the on the.ide of the bit, not O.e end base cellar around the motor. like a drill bit. This means that thebitwon't be in theexactsame the plunging operation can be position and, cuts at a slightly especially hard on the bit, differenl point. (This doesn't SOMlITL'lES t DO sour, Okay, happen with aplunge router.) would you ever consider using a ItIDDEN cur; Also. when morrouter to cut mortises? ,H the tising on a router table you have mortise is shallow enough (V4" to plunge the workpiece down or less) to rout in one pass. and over the bit. You can't see I'm working with a number of whether you are routing exactly pieces which need mortises in where you want tile mortise. exactly the same locauons, yes, One solution is to clamp start Iprobably would use the router autl stop blocks 10 your router table. Because then the lime of table, but this can be time con- setting up start and SlOP blocks suming to geuhescaccurate. iSjllSlilied.
routers because there's so much
MITER JIG REVISITED .In Wo~",itl!No. 60 we fea- table saw wiU. a hardwood runt'oted a shop-made miter jig U,.I ner in the miter gaull" 5101. It was a Iiule different from other runs on the lefl side .01 the saw miter jigs we had seen. Since blade and the waste piece falls Ihat article appeared last winter. away to the right. oflhe blade. we've received a number of letWHY TilE KJ C){8ACK? The ters and calls-about tbejig, and problem seems \0 come when we've had (he opportunity 10 use cutting the second miter at the backofthejig, Since thefinished itin our shop for overayear. The general consensus is that piece is on tile jig. it's always cut it's one of the easiest and most off clean. But the waste piece accurate jigs for cutting miters. doesn't have any support. But we've also heard of a probWhat happens is this-There's lem: occasionally a waste piece a uttle triangle Sj)linter or wood Will kickbackas itfaJlsolfthe jig. on the trailing edge of the waste The jig consists of a :v.1" ply- piece that never gets cui wood base that's guided on the completely off. seel''ig. la. Since
there's very tittle support behind the waste piece at this point. the 100Ul doesn't cut the triangular splinter 0(1Clean. As the blade comes.around, one of the teelh can hook onto 0\01 lillie splinter.H It catches it just right, it can throw the waste ~iecedownagainstthe table and then U.e piece can bounce back (kickback),see Fig. 1. K1CKBACKVARtEl). \Ve'vetried to produce the kickback on all kinds orwoods, saw blades, and molding profiles. Sometimes il kicks back, sometimes it doesn't, Changing the feed rate
...ol"""-PLATJORM KffPSWASTE PI(CE FROM FAWNG
AND tUCkiNG BACK
No. 64
\Xloodsmith
doesn't seem to help prevent it. It there's a 'Situation where it seems worse, it's when you have a cut-off piece about 6" long.
Then it weighs enough so ifs Ihrown out with some force. SOl.lJl10NS.There are a few
simple solutions to the problem. As we said in thearticlein No. 60, ies a good idea to start by rough cutting your pieces straight off only 1·'oversize beforemitering, Also, while cutting, stand to lheleftofthe blade.And don't let scrap pieces collect near the blade. This just provides more clutter for uie waste oieceto get caught up on and kick back. The best solution is to attach a plywood platform to the "ight of the blade, see Fig. 2. The platform should be the same thickness as thejig base. '1l1~as the waste pieces are cut away they won'tfall down off the jig. To hold the plywood in position on top of the saw table (it doesn't slide with the jig), I screwed a runner under the plywood lor a lighl friction fit in the right nliler,gaugeslot.
23
PRO
ECT
SUPPLIES
Sources CHAIR UPHOLSTERY In addition to the. lumber. ply. wood. and screws, the only sup plies needed for Ibe chairs are for the upholstery. (For more informatioa, see page 19.) When I upholstered the chairs I used professional quality materials. The cost of these materials may seem a little high in the beginning, but Ifeel that it's worth it in the end. 1'H"E FOA~t. The 211 polyurethane foam that [used for Ole SC8llladding is sold 01 a standard sheet size or 24" x 108".That's enough lor six chairs and it cost SilO at. local upholstery shop. THE "AJlRlC. There are so many different fabrics to choose from thall had ahard timedeciding which to use. When I fmaUy decided on the fabric. [foundout itcost$25 a yard. I ihought Ibat price seemed awlully high until it was explained 10me. Upholstery fabric comes in a standard width 0154". Sine.. the fabric I liked was 54" wide. (only needed 2 yardsoflength recover six chairs, The total for my upholstery supplies came 10 about $80, or (as I like to think of it) a little under $13.50 per chair. We have listed a mail order source lor foam padding. see
CatalogSourcesbelow. Look lor code Cf' after the address. CHAIR PArrERN Wood.smith Project Supplies is offering a luU·sjm pattern for the chair parts. tile pattern includes a leg profile with aU the mortise locations marked, plusa pattern lor both the horizontal back slats and the vertical back slals. Chair Pattern '764·300 Chair Pattern, $3.95
BY MAIL To orderby mail. use the form on the protectivecover ofacurrent issue or write your order on a piece of paper, and send it with your cheek or money order (please include $1.50 shipping Charge wilh each order). fA residents.add 4% sales tax. Send order to: WoodsmithPrqjcctSupplies P.O. Box 10350 Des Moines, IA50306
inlh.folltlwll't{JcaUl/ODS.HO!l)qversl!Jles al'ihizes-mayvary. f01'
orcleringinformation.
Grizzly Imports P.O. Box 2069 J3eUingharu,\VA98227...RB
Van Dyke's P.O. Box 278 Woonsocket, SO 57385...cr
M.L.C.S. Limited P.O. Box 4035 Rydal., PA 19046... RB
Wood.craftSupply P.O. Box 4000 Woburn. MA Ol888 ... MB, RB Woodline 1731 ClemenlAve. Alameda. CA 94501...RB
24
for the code MB after the supplier's address. Mortising Bits • 278·654llitSet $25.95 (1) 1I." Mortising Bit (l) :Va" Mortising Bit (l) !I'l" Mertising Bit Individually priced Mortise btts, ·278.647 \I.." Bil $7.95 • 278·650 %" Bil. $8.95 • 278·653 \.'~"Bil S9.95
ORDER INFORMATION
Simi/al'/141viwal" anti-supplies mall befrn",d
The Source 7305 Boudinot Drive Springfield. VA221S0 ...RB
bitsa "Forsmer'Type'tbit.) Look
HANGER BOLTS. MOR'ISING BI'S The Vennont American mortis- TIle hanger bolls thaI I used on ing bits that we talked about on the Dining Table arc 5" long. page 10 are available as a set or These S" bolts are available individually tlirough \Vood· through \Voodsmith Project smitb Project Suppljes, or Supplies.
ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES Pleaeerefertc eaclt cat"log
from the source listed below. (VCl1)lOnt American calls these
BY PHONE For laster service use our roll Free order line. Phone orderscan beplaced Mon. H'nJ E'ri.. S::SOAM·4:30 PM CSf. Before you call please fillout the order forO! completely. VISA or MC orders only.
1-800 444-7002 AIIo,.4 106 jL~ek.f'l"di!!if1
Note.: Pricf~iJfl(l>iectto cha"ue
oft"" 1~89.
Flanger Bolts • 764-100 BoIl5 $3.95 (4) %" x 5" Hanger Bons with
nuts and
washers.
Some local hardware. stores may carry hanger bolts. but they may only be 4" long. You can
counterbore the
hole on the
back of the corner block 10 a depth oil". Then you willgel the same threads into the leg. ROUTER BITS \Voodsmilh Project Supplies is offering a collection 01 high quality router bits needed to make the chairs and table in this issu.e. All 0.1 these bits have carbide cutters and steel bearings, Router Bits • 271·885 Flush Trim ...$16.95 'This bit has a I" cutter length and a Vo." shank. .27.1-8,1 1lIs"Rndover.$23.95 v.."Shank • 271·821 lis" Rndover ,$26.95 !I'l" Shank '2'71·81411<"Rndover.$23.95 1I."Shank ·271-82311." Rndover.S24.95 !I'l" Shank '764·200 W' Rndover.S26.95 y,"Shank '764·250 W' Rndover. $28.95 W' Shank Router bits are also available from some ofthe suppliers listed below. See code RB.
PROJECT SUPPLY UPDATE The Old Fashioned Wall Phone featured,i. Woodsmit" No. 42 is now available through Wood· smith ProjectSupplies. The kit includes: the. reproduction hardware.theelectrcnlc parts 00 the inside ofthe phone as well as all the wires and plugs. (Wood not included) IncIuded areinstructions lor building and wiring the phone. Note: We're otlering the phone in touch-tone only. • 742·100 Phone Kit ...$139.95
Woodsrnith
~ ~
No. 64
