NO. 61
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.50
PROJECTS: • COUNTRY PINE eORNER CABINET • CHERRY SHAKER HALL TABLE TECHNIQUES:
·SHOP~MADE TAPERING JIG • LOCKED RABBET DRAWER JOINT
NO. 61
Editor Donald B. Pescnke DesiQi1 Ellrector Ted Kra.llcek
ManagingEdit", Douglas L Hicks AssisIaIlI EditOlS Douglas M.l.:ldster Kent A. Bucklon Projec\ Designer Ken Munkel TocI1nlcallllusiralO..David Kreyllng cary Christensen RodStoakes Chris Glowacki CUstome'rSeNice Sandy Baum, Mgr. Jackie Slroud PatKoob Usa Thompson PI'ojeCISUpplies Leslie Ann G""rhart Terry J. Strohman ComP
WOODSMlTH STORES Operalions Sieve Krohmer
Mru1
Managels: St. Louis, MO Jon Behrle Betl
WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthly (February. April, June, August, October, December) by Woqdsmith Publishing Co., 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines.1A 50312. WOQdsmifh fs a registered trademark Of Woodsmith Publishing CO. ~Copyright 1989 by Woodsmlth PublishIng Co. AllRights Reserved. Subscriptions: One year (6 Issues) ~f2.95, Two Years (12 issues) $22.95. Canada and Foreign: add S2per year, U.S, funds ooly. Single C9pY price, 53.50. Second Class Postage Paid at Des Moines, Iowa. Postmaster: Send change of address to Woodsmnh, Box491 , Mt. Moms.IL61054. SUBSCRIPTION QUESTIONS? C811800435-0715 (IL residents! 800-892-0753). '1:30 AM 108:30 PM, CST, weekdays. BACK ISSUES: For a bookiet dascriblng bad< Issues, send 10address above. SAMPLE COPY: We willsend a Irile sample copy of Woodsinith to anyone. Jusl send us hJs/her name and addfess:
2
EDITOR'S
FEB. 1989
T
COLUMN
Sawdust
hiS issue marksthe loth anniversary of Woorismilh. Milestones like this are usually celebrated wilh great fanfare - including a banner across the fronl cover. I decided 10skip thebanner and.take this opportunity to make SOme improvements to the graphics in Woodsmilil. Over the years, fve had the chance to talk to a 101 of people who subscribe to Wol>lismilil.They're usually 001 shy about offering comments and advice, One bit of advice J've heard many times is: Don't
change a-thing, just keep it the way iris. So, Don, wh.y are you changfug things now? \Vell, "agree that change for the sake of change is probably not worthwhile. BUI J wanted to make some improvements, We've actually made a lot of improvements to Woods",il" during the past 10 years. There have been gradual (and sometimes subtle) changes in our approach 10 both the artwork and the copy (text). The one thing that hasn't changed much is the graphic presentation. Thatis, theoveralllookand arrangementof the art and copy on a page. It's been okay. But it needed updatingand improving. TI.I£ IiEW LOOIl. So, whafs the purpose of this new look? Most of the changes center around the projecl articles. Here's what I wanted 10do , .. FIrSt. the opening spread (two pages) of each project article is very different than in the past. Fer-example, take. lookatpage 14, theShaker Hall Table article, OPENING PAGE. In the past, the opening page included a limited description of the project I wan led a broader description thaL gives an overview of the design (and why it was designed thatway). Plus, wewill usually include a basic outline of.the joinery. the wood used for the projecl, the type oflinish, and any special jigs or techniques we used. In short, all the things that give an overall idea of where this project is headed, EXPLODED view, Tbe second page of the project article (page 15, for example) represeats tile most dramatic change. We've always wanted to lead.off with a big exploded view, One that shows all the pieces in relalion 10each other. Now, at last; you can see where you're going with the project right from the start. STEP·BY·STEPPaGES. Okay, thai takes care of the opening spread of a groje<:1article. Whalaboutthe rest ofthe article?ll,e step-bY'slep procedure? _ Asroin, ldidn'twanl to jusrehange things, I wanted 10 make improvements. So, what was the problem before? WeU, there wasn't
Woodsmith
a big problem. The old formal wasthis; each page was divided into three' columns, Two columns were given to art. one column was for copy.ltworkediine. Although it worked, there was' a somewhatclutleredappearanceforlheanworkit was all p'acked logether in two columns. Also, since the copy was in long columns, when you turned your attention away from the copy to refer to the art (when Isaid, "see Fig. 12'? itwas difficult to find your place in the long column of copy again, So, we made somechanges in the graphic presentation. The second spread of each' project article now presents the step-by-step
procedure for building the project in an entirely new way_The project is divided into major steps and thecopyis in smaller blocks rightalongwith the art \Ve try to show the maiorstepalnseltceutained unitson the page. I think thiswiU give a better idea of the overall procedure, S)'MfP. We've also added a "bug" or "stamp" at the beginning of most sections. This is a small exploded view with the perunent part shaded dark. For example, on page 16 the section headed TIlE LEGS bas a stamp with the legs of the table.shaded dark. Irs intended to be a quick reference so you know what this section is about and how it relates to other parts of the project There are a lot of other smaller changes. But since I'm running out of space, rll have to talk aboutthem in another issue. 1JIICKNESS. There is one other change I want to mention briefly. The change has to do with the thickness of lumber.Fve talked about it quite a few times in thepast because it presents problems, The problem is this, The National Hardwood Lumber Association says that 4/4 lumber (lumber-that's 1"thick nominal or rough) should be 1'l16"-thick when ifs "dressed" or planed 10final thickness, But if you work with softwood (like the construetion pine that most people are used to) 1" lumber (a 1x4 for example) is '¥4i' actual thickness when ifs dressed. ",ebave always used theNHLAsrandard of 1'1116" for the thickness of hardwood, But it causes confusion. Not all hardwood tumberyardsfollow therule. (Ill fact, ali the lumber we get is aclually 2%t' thick.) So, we decided 10change. From now on in Woodsmith, the thickness ofal! bardwood lumber willbe stared as Ss". I thinkjt will make life easier for all of us. NlOCI'ISSUE. The April'issue of WoI!rislllilh
No.6!
FRO
M
FELLOW
WOODWORKERS
Tips & Techniques CHUCK KEY HANDLE
GLUE REMOVER • Anl'onc gluing a corner together is confronted with the choreofcleaningupexcessglue that squeezes out, The biggest problem isgetting theglueoulof the inside comers. -
To make this chore easier, Iuse a plastic straw to get all of the glue outofughtccmersquickly, painlessly, and without messiJ18 up my fingers in the process. To use the straw,just slide the straw's up tight into the comer and push it forward so the slraw tip molds- itself into (he comer. Now push the straw through the glue to scoop the excess inside the straw. To reuse the straw,
.0
snip-off the filled portion ~"le.J',/'<,,",::;:::"'_~simply and use the unused portion .
•ME.
~IPOff GWEJlU£D EN
A-fattJacksO?, ,Rapid.City,Sta
RADIAL ARM MEASURING STOP • Making cuts of the same length repeatedly on a radial ann saw gets tiring because you have to makethemeasurements on the board, then go to the saw to make the cut.I builra measuring stop for my radial arm saw that simplifies the process. This measuring stop is JUSt a
wooden yardstick glued to • piece of stock that's clamped to the saw'sfence. To set up the stop. place it against the fence so the lett end (thereroend) isneartheleftend of the fence. Then adjusl ituntll an even inch mark is in line with the left side of the blade. (The drawing below shows the yardstick aligned so the blade is cutting right on the 15" mark.) Now clamp the stop to the fence. and mark a reference line on the face olthe fence'31the left
No.6l
end of the stop. This mark becomes the "Q" markfor the stop. Finally, CUt off the light end of theyardstiek stop. To use the stop to measure cut~ff lengths. align the length you want on the yardstick willI the zero mark on the fence.
• Over the years my knuckles hands stay clear of getting have taken their fair share of scraped. To use the handle, 6rst spin nicks and scrapes while tightening or loosening drill chucks. the chuck closed with your There's been many a-time when hand, and then use' the chuck Ithought Ihad the, chuck jaws key withoul the handle. (The tight. only to see them spin handle usually gets in the way of around a drill bit that was going DRIU HOlE SAME DtA. AS 9" nowhere. GHUQ( KEY HANO\! ' But this doesn't happen any AND HAlf rTS more since Ibuilt a handle. for WlGIM n;ty chuck key. The bandle is made out ora short piece of~" or 1"-diameterdowel witha bole drilled in one end to hold the chuck key. (lcutthe dowel twice the length of the handle on the chuck key.) Next drill a hole centered on making a fi<1/ tum.) When the one end of the dowel, the same chuck is fairly tight, attach Ibe diameter as the handJe on the handle and gently tighten the chuck key, and half asdeepasits Chuck.To loosen the chuck just length. (If you have chuck keys give the handle a slight pun and of different sizes, drill another the leverage will do the rest. You have a lot more leverage hole into the other end of the with this handle, SO be careful dowel) i use the handle (after usiJtg not to overtighten the chuck and the chuck key) for short final damage the jaws. filIitz Marple turns to give me more leverage Polloak P;,t.e.S, California 10 tighten or loosen jaws so my
SANDING BELT CLEANER of a piece of acrylic against the sanding surface. The acrylic removes the sawdust and fuses it in a bead on the edge 01 the sanding surfaces with an acrylic. When a bead builds up For example, ityou wanttocul abrasive cleaner stick made out on the edge, just break it off to off a piece 4" long, align the 4" of a rubber ccmpound. These get a fresh cleaning surface. mark On the yardstick with the sticks work well. but they also Jol,~Harris "0" reference line at the left end leave a mess of sawdust-filled Sa1. f.,eo.ntJro,CaUf.l1Iia of the fence. The light end of the rubber bits on the Sanding surSENDIN YOUR.ftH stop will now be 4l''from the saw face, and all over the shop. blade. Now, clamp the stop to One day while Sanding some If you'd Uke to, share a tip the fence, push the workpiece acrylic plastic, I found that the with others. send your idea to up to the stop, and cut it off. acrylic was actually picking up W/!odsmi!II, Tips & 'TechniBuddy Jent sawdust from the sanding surques. 2200 Grand Ave., Des Wq.y~,Temlsssee face and collecting ilina bead on the edge. Right then, r knew { Moines, ioWltS0312. We pay $15 for accepted Iii,Utor'. Note: Yardstick found a new sanding cleaner. tips. Please send an explana; mea8l(l"6'm6tt-ts ea1~be Ot'6)- .1,16" Now when {want to clean offa tionandsketchHneeded (we'll ojf,soit'sagooo.illealoO?uy·"s. sanding disk or belt, I just turn draw a new one). tJ,is type of stop/o"'>·O'U{Jhcuts. on the sander and press the edge • Sanding' belts and disks ~I· ways seem to clog up with sawdust and need to be cleaned often.In thepast.I cleaned these
Woodsmirh
3
HEIRLOOM
PROJECT
Corner Cabinet With glass and raised~panel doors this country cabinet enhances any comer of a home. It's a classic that uses simple joinery and shop-made moldings.
C
To simplify all of this. I took a different approach. The glass in ench door iijjust one big rectangulur pane. Then tile horizontal muntins (dividenl) lay on top of the glass. but they're still tied into the door stiles with an offsct mortise and tenon joint. This way the only arc you have 10 cut is 011 the top rails (horizontal pieces) orthedoor, nouhe glass, the sides of the cabinet around them, This way you can layout MA'nlRIALS.1 built the cabinet and cut the angles on nat pieces. out of straight·grained JOINIlRY. design or this Ponderosa pine (C and Beller cabinet also keeps any complex grade). The pine. gives the joinery to a minimum.There are project a classic country look. Ioog splines that join the sides Since the back is made from and (ront stiles (vertiea! piC(.'CS). 1/4"plywood (and pine plywood But the rest of the case is simply isn't commonly available). I screwed together. The screws used birch plywood for the back. are all hidden by moldings. I(you wert (0 build the cabinel MOLDINGS. That brings up with a hardwood. such ascherry another thing Ilike about this or oak. it would take on a traditional. formal look. Then you project. Youcancombineanum· her of simple moldings (that are could use plywood for the back cut on the router and table saw) to match the rest of the cabinet flXISH. Before staining the and come up with what looks like rather complex baseand top Comer Cabinet. I brushed on a moldings. For example. the top eoat of Minwax \Vood Ccncrown molding has a cove that's ditioner to help even out the an easy cut 00 a table saw. stain penetralioll. Then Istained wiOI a coal of ras DOORS. One more thing should be mentioned about the Country Pine stain mixed up in design. J added glass upper the shop. (The recipe is in doors and panel lower doors. Wood$milhNo. 55.) It'ssimiiarto On the top hall Iwas raced Minwax'. Early American. Finally, I brushed on two with building doors with small panes-including the top panes coats of McCloskey's Heirloom which had to be cut in an arc to (eggshell) Vamishand rubbed it smooth with ·000"steel wool. match the top door rail. omer cabinets usually involve a lot of angled cuts and complex joinery. Tyllically, you would try to 6gu,·eout.1I 0,(\ angles first.then build the case, and finally add the shelves. But to make construction a little easier, J did it backwards, I made the shelves and top and bottom first. and then built
11,.
4
MATERIALS LIST OvtRAll.DlMENSIONS: 79+s"H x 44+s"W x 16t,,·0 CASE
A lDt/llllOltIIlII.(31}\,13lI·401Il • AIlJ.lIIII.I'Blll 1'l,13lI·401Il (W11111lO5121 >-.. 114·12 o WlIlIS1Il5i?l hdl'l·12 E lIIlIfSWIIJ.{IlJIji?l}hlll·~ F IIIBfSl~.(lOIJ12l I\XU,·39\; G IIOEFIJIIS(2)'
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DOORS u lIIIIJDtSlUSl41 1•• 1·311-1 V lDWUOlsnUS(4) \t.l·tnt
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BASE/TOP l 81M.ClliIIIl M WIN!lUSHII • iii' PI'lWDDD
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No.61
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9Y," . '6" (6.7 ad. " .•
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SUPPLIES AlSO REQUIRED, 1. f'ie
LUMBIR ·'10 Board ft .. ~" fbick,
blonkt.; edgcoglOJ. 1.6'L You ~ rMM boorel .. ~ .. 11: 5!h'" If 96'" (36 bd, ft.
• v." Birch ply. (48" x 96")
",'111) to medGe 011 thIt bIOnb.
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x 91to" • 96· (617 8d. ft.)
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12".JIT1 ~qUGH~1.l.!J
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G (lfld I< or. WI 'n)m one shoe. (4-'8') of Y'- plywood.. 2. Pl~
Woodsmith
"Pongerosa pine (C&'StrJ
HARDWARE • Projectkit (see Jl:'{geo24) • Mise. screws and nalls - Two panes o( glass
"NISH
= Sealer: Minwax Wood Co nditioner • Stain: Minwax Early Americanor Woodsmith Coun-
to' Pine (Wooasm;tI. NQ.55) - Varnish: McCloskey-s Hei rloom (eggsbell) Varnish
5
Istarted work on the
can begin laying out the angles that give these pieces (and eventually the cabinet) their shape. see Fig. 1. (Shop Note: I !ayed outand cutolle blank. Then,! used thatbJankas a template to the others.) Begin the layout by drawing a center line table shelves (B).A11 on Ihe blank. see FilJ. 1. Then make soc pieces are made reference marks on thefrontedge 1~6" on by edge-gluing both sides ofthe center lioe. stock to make 1:J:l1t' wide by 40W' Next, place a combination square alo~ long. (After the case is built, the adjustable one end to layout a 45- angle from the shelves are cut 10 fit in the case.) reference mark on the fronl edge to the end IAYOl1l'. After the blanks are made. you oflhe blank,seei'ig.2. (In my case. this line Corner Cabinet by making the top, middle shelf, and bottom (all labelled A). and the three adjus-
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TOP, MIDDLE, BOTTOM, AND ADJUSTABLE SHELVES
1
measured 6%" long, see FIg. 1.) 'Then flip the square over so it points toward the back edge and layout another line ata 90' angle from thefirstline. eur OtJ]' SHAP", After the lines are !aYeTABLESRELVES. On the three adiustable shelves, r cutareliefon thefronl edges, see Fig. 1. (This makes room for the keeper strips on the back of the lower doors.) Then 1 routed a plate groove (this is optional) along the back edges oftwooftheseshelves (B). (Shop Notes, page 12.) DRAW A 45'" ANGlf FROMfltONT
MAKE A 101Al. OF (6) SIANtc$
REfEltfNCE MARX ro IAANK
~---------------.O*·'-------------~~ CUT OUT A liEUa'
Of\! fRoNT EDGE _
Of AU. THREE ADJ. $HELVES
LAY OUT IIfFERENCE MAltI
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Then cut a spline to fit loosely within the cut a rabbet along the back edge of the ken.seePig.S. (ShopNole:Thesplioecould cabinet sides (C) to accept the side panels be W' Masonite, but if it Iits too tight, as(G). Cutthis rabbetso the distance from the sembly will be difficult. Also, the spline can short end of the bevel to the rabbet matches bea series of pieces, notone 72"-long piece.) the length of the angled front edges-on the ASS~mUNGmEJOu.'I'. To help assemble top and bottom pieces '(A). (In my case, this the joinL I clamped a couple of straight boards to my bench parallel to each other was 6%". see Figs. 1 and 3.) andabouI9Y.l" apart, seeFig. 6.Thenwedge SPUNE JOINT.The purpose of the spline between the sides (0) and, the stiles (0) is to a cabinet side (C) and stile (0) together behelpaligo tbe.pieceswhen gillipg. (ltdeesn't tween the straightboards (with the spline in place). When pressure is applied On top of add sign ificanl strength) To, make the joint, stltrI by cutting a )11" tile pieces the joint closes up. (fest clamp kerf into the bevels on the edges of both IIle dry beforegluing.The distance between the cabinet sides (C) and stiles (0).1 did fbis b, straight boards may need adjusting). tilting the blade to 22Vt' and running Ute Once the joint is tighl,'glueit up and hold pieces through the saw on edge (with the the pieces down with several strips of tape bevels down). see Fig. 4. while itdries, seeFIg. 6. RJ\BBEI'. Before culling the splinejoint,
Once the top. bot10m. and shelves are allcuuoshape, work can begin on the cabinet sides and stiles (Ole vertical pieces 00 the IronLo! the eshinet). These
1
l~~~~~~ pieces are joined t< SIZE.. cutting two cabinet sides (C) and IWO cabinet stiles (0) to acornmon lengthof72". Then riponeedge oleach piece to create a 22Y.l-bevel. Now, cui the cabinet sides (C) lO a width o{7¥1", apd the stiles (0) to a widlb 0!211.!".see Fig. 3. 1 'I."
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@CABINET SIDES
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No.6l
ASSEMBLY I found it easiest to assemble the C
front assembly (C,O), and the middle shelf 39Wt down from the top piece. Then screw through thefrontstiJes (0) and into the edge of Ole top, middle shelf, and bottom pieces (1\), see Fig. 7. Next add two screws along- the top and
bottom of the sides (C). The screws will be hidden later by the top and base moldings. But that's not thecase with the middle sheIL There 1 just used one SCrew :y,," from the inside edge.oflbefront stile, see Fig. S.1lwill be covered later by a fronl ledge. SLDE
7
8
NOTE, otoIl Y ONE 5CR;EW INTO MlDotE SHElF,
Y.· ~OM fNS,lMlDGe
NOTE, SIDE PANEL_)
The shelves are sup. ported by metal pin shellsupportsthatfil into holes drilled in shelf standards and in the side of the case, see Fig. 12. CUT STANOAIU)S.
~;-;;j:;.~~;t!, tStarttheby topcufting the fo and bottom sections of the case. In mY case, the two bottom standards (E) were 3014" long and the two top standards (F) were39~" long. Next. cuta4S' bevel oftone edgeof aIIIour standards (to fit agains~ the back of the cabinet) and then trim them to a common SHElF STANDARDS
9
an
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CENTER SCREWS ON SHElf THtCKN'fSS
STANDARDS
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width of l:Y,",see Fig. 9. Now cuta ¥,"-deep rabbet on the edge opposite Ute bevel to fit around the side panel, see Fig. 10. AITACHb"ANDAAJ)S. Alter the rabbets are cut. glue and clamp the standards to the Inside back of thecabinet, see Fig, 11a, Dl\IUJNG TEMPlATE, I found the easiest way to keepallthe pill support holes aligned was by making a drilljng template, see Fig. 12,To make the template.cut a piece o{V," plywood to the same width and length as the bottom shelf standard (E). 1l1C1l drill 14" holes centered on the ",idUI and positioned as shown in Fig. 12. Design Note: Two of the holes are posi· tionedsolbeshelveswillbecentered,bebind the horizontal muntins on the glass doors. Now, with the bottom end of the template
down with No. s x !¥.I" Fh woedscrews, see Fig. 8.
clamped firmly so it sits flush on the top of the shelf, drill through each hole until there's a I't'-deep bole in the shelf standard, see Fig, 12, After drilling holesineacb ofthe fourshelt standards at the back of the cabinet, [ used the template 10 drill matching holes on the insideoflbe cabinet.sides (C) atthe front of the cabinet, If you align the edge of the template on thesplmejoiat, the boles willbe located ~"in from the joint. see Fig. llb. NOTCHSRE~VES. Once.all of the holes are drilloo. insert the. shelt supports and notch the threeadiustable shelves (8) to fitaround the shelt standards. Then trim the ends slighlly so Ille shelves wiO 6t around the shelf supports and move freely within the cabinet, see,Fig, na,
12
TQP View
PANELS.
Once the Iront pieces are screwed down, tum the case over and measure for the pl}'Woodside panels (G). Cut the width 01 the side panels :v,," less than the dtstance from the inside of the rabbet to the back comer. see Fig. 8. Aft'er the side panels are cut to size, screw them
OR1WNG nMPIATE
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No,61
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Woodsmith
7
match the angle inside the cabinet, see Fig. stiles (0). (In my ease, 26%".) After they're 13. The distance between thesbortpointsof cutto length, glue lite rails to the frontofthe The next step on the the bevelhas to match thedistance from one stops. 111e top- and bottom rails (I) are cabinet is to add the spline joint (911theinslde) totheotherspllne mountedJlush with thetopand bortomofthe I doorstops, rails, and joint (In my case, 31W'S cabinet, see rogs. 13a and 140. But the mid· afrontledge. After the stops are cut to length. titer can dle rail OJ is aligned with the.bolt"'" ofU'e srors. There are be glued in place .behind the cabinet stiles middle shelf, see rlg.ISo. three door stops (I) (0), see Figs. 13,14,and 15. FRON!"l£DGE. Next, add the front ledge - one at the top of IWJ.S. Next, cut the three rails. The top (1) to therTontofthe middle shelf, see fig. ,the upper section and bottom rails (I) are cut to-a width of 2". 15. (The ledge hides the screws in the and two in the lower But lbe middle rail 0) is cut 114" wide cabinetstiles.) First, cut it IW' wide and 29" secti~ri y Pl1ingU,estopsl~"wide. (which i5%" narrower) since there's a front long.Then cumctches on both endsso it fits Determining the length of the door stops ledge added above it; see Fig. ISo. betwee.lbe cabmerstiles. After the ledge is isalittletricky. Thestopsfitbehind the stiles To determine the length of the rails. cut to shape, glueit to the front of the shelf, (O),andl wanted to bevel bothendsat4S' to measure the distance between the cabinet seeFag.15.
STOPS AND RAILS
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DOOR • STOP CABINET
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sides. (see Fig. 11) .and itsticks out.¥.!"from lite frontofthe cabinet see Fig.16. ==J-~ The base of the After lite middle cleat is cut to length, ll::i::.:ll cabinet is built using miter the front end of each .slde cleat and a number of pieces; thea.cut the back end 10 length (at90'). see fig. 16. I started 8ASE.Afterthecl~dts w eresereweddown, by screwing cleats Iadded the cabinet base pieces (M) to the (L) to the boltom of front These three pieces have a rabbet cut the cabinet to on the top edge to fit around, the cleats, see provide a mounting Fig. 18. After cutting lite rabbet, miter the __ ...l surface for the base. pieces so lite miters align wid, themiters on .~~~'.~!~ bycutting the cleats (L) to 0 the cleats, width and rough length. Then miter To join the base pieces, Iused a spline both endsofthemiddlecleatat22\-2' so .the joint Oike the sides andsnles). seeFig. 17a, ends align with the joinlS of the stiles and Then Iglued lite base pieces to Utecleats,
BASE
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using the router and table saw. To make the molding. first Tout 1/2" coves along both edges of a 2lt.!"-wide by 36".long blank, see F",g. 19. Step L While r was set up, I routed two pieces this size to make enough molding (R) fOl"the cabinet top as well. Then round over the bottom edge of the botton: cove moldingooly, seeStep2. Finatly trim. the ¥.n·wide molding off both edges, see Step 3. Now miter the molding to fit around the cabinet and glue it in place on top of the cleats, see 1'"18,16. RABBET DETAil
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R£ARSVI'PORT. The backoflhecabinetis beld up ..ilb a rear suppon (1'), see Fig. 21. CUIillo the same widlh as the braces (4V.") and 10 the same length as the back edge of
SUPPORT BRACES To add SIt'Cngth 10 the base of lIle cabinet. l screwed triangular-shaped braces (0) bebind ihe base pieces. cvr TO 5= SIan by cutting four braces 4V." square. (TWo of Ihe braces fil behind the front base piece and the other two support a rear suppon, see r,g. 21.) Thea.trim one comer off at 45' leaving I" shoulders along two edges, see F'1l1.20. To fil around the bottom cleats (1.), cut notcbes out g(the lwo (ront braces, see fig. 20. Then use No.8 x I W' Oathead screws to
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screw two o( the braces to the back of the base piece (M) nnd to the bottom of the cabinet (A).
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down three top cleats (Q)
~~~~~;;;;;-~ just like the cleats, see Fig. 24. The tOI>cleat Is a lillie dil(erenl though. les 2" wide nod is mounted so It sticks out lit in from o(tho cabinet, see Fig. 2<1. C'OVEMOUlING. Next, CUI the cove molding (R) (that you made earlier) and glue il underneath the cleats, see Fig. 24. CROWN 1I101.01NG.To make the crown
,
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molding. Istarted byeutting two blanks3W wide. Then cut one to a rough length 0(36" «(orlbe front) 8Odone24" «(orlhelWosides). To cu. Ihe wide cove on me face of the moldings, clamp a SIralghledge lence 10the saw at a 30' angle 10 the blade. see F,g, 22. Position the fence so the lOPof the blade is centered Onthe width of the blank. Now CUI the cove by making lighl passes, increasing the blade heiJIhl between passes until the cove is \4" deep. Next. rip the blank so •• e edge i$%" (rom the (:OV., see Step I in Pig. 23. TIten make two cuts on this edge with the blade set al 30', see Steps 2 nnd 3. Now lower the blade so it's only \4" above the table, and CuI a slot on the back of the molding for a spline, sec Slep 4. Finally. cuI off Ibe other edge al30', see Slep 5.
.,..J----, The molding around Ihetopoflbecabinel is made from a combination of pieces fastened together, by making
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the cabinet bottom (A) (2314" in my case). Then screw the back braces onlO me inside face o( the rear suppon. Now screw this assembly 10 the beuem ollbe cabinet.
The last step is 10CUI a pockel for mounting screws (see F'1Sl.24). To make Ihepock-
et, cuI a W-wide angled groove in me back
oflbe molding with. dado blade on the table saw, see Step 6. MOllNTm£ >tOUlING. Now the molding can becuttofit en topefthe cleat, (See Shop NOles, page 13. for an easy way 10 cuI the molding at the COI'l"CCl angie.)
To hold Ute [oints together, I added splines shaped like ClonJrllledtriangles into the slot in the molding, see Fig, 25, BACK l'ANEt. The back panel (K) can now be cut from V4" plywood so it's the same height as the side panel (72"). bUI !'.!" narrower than thedlstance between lheoutside comers of the shelf standards (so the hack won't stick out beyond the sides), see Fig. 25.Then screw Ihe back panel into place.
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No. 61
Woodsmirh
9
DOOR STILES
26
After the basic case of the cabinet was complete. I built the doors. I made gloss upper doorsand raised panel lower doors, but you could eliminate the upper doors (or a more open appearance. OESIGS COSSIOERATIOSS. The basic
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UPPER struction o( both the upper and lower doors DOOR is the same. Instead of enclosing thegms.or STILE raised panel in a closed frame. I built the :I.V." doorsasopen frames. see rag. 26. Then Ipot ~ UPPER ODe large pane of glass (or two raised MUNTlNS DOOR panels) intorabbets in the back o(....,h door. ~ rotE Theglassaod raised panelsare held in place with stops aod keeper sirips, refer to Fig. 36 on the opposite page. To build the doors this way. Ihad to come upwith aslightlydilferent mortiseand tenon joint. see Fig. 21. Since the mUniins are mounted in front ofthe glass and panels, the mortise and tenonjoint (or the munUns must be offset slightly towards the fron~ Once I was set up to cut these offset mortiseslortJte muntins, it was easiest tocut the mortises tor all 01the door rails this way as well. CtTrOUTS1U.ES. Start making-the doors by cutting all of the stiles (vertical pieces) to • 1 Vo' common width of 2" from :v."·U.ick stock. see rog. 28. To determine the length of the stiles. measure the height oflhe cabinet openings. Cut Utestiles (U. V) 10 length so th.door.fit RAIL tight in the openings. 'Il,i", afler the doers were built. I planed them down SO there was NOTE: a uniform !lt6" gap all around. AU. DOOR STOCK "I.- 'HtO( ,XClPT LAY OtTrMOKllSES. Ncxt.lny out the locaMUNTINS (\., tion o( the mortises l.long the inside edge o( NOTE: the stiles, see Fig. 28. The lWO mortises at WHlN SlUNG GtA5S. AUOW 'It." (lVJtANC! the top and one at the bottom (Iorthe rails) OHAU fOUl s.D£$ are 1\1.." long. The moruses in the center (for the muntins) are W' long. curnsc MORTISES. Icut the mortises on of the bit. To get the mortise to be oJfset a drill press using a fence.see ~lg.29.(I1you toward the front of the stile. keep theolltsi,u don't have a fence. clamp a straight board to lau of the stile against the fence. This will your drill press table as a teoce, or build a leave room for the W rabbet on Ute inside table and Ience like the one shown in foce of the stile (refer to Fig.3Ia). To make the mortise. start by drilling lVoodsmith No. 54.) holes at each end. Then dnlla seriesofholes Tocut the mortises. first insert a '1'16' brad point bit in the drill press and set the speed next to each other in. straight line. see Fig. to about 2000-2500 RPM. Then tighlen the 29. (I)on't overlap the holes or the bit can fence down soi~s'1'16" from the inside edge wander into the previous hole.)
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After the initial boles are drilled. Iwent back and drilled out the areas between the holes. rmally. I used a "milling" action to clean out the remaining ridges, see Fig. 30. Rapidly raise and lower the bit while .t the same time slowly moving the workpiece from side to side. RABBf:T. After all 01 the mortises are cleaned out. routa~' x~'rabbet along the backinsideedge of each stile. see Fig. 31.
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No.61
mounted so they're in front of the glass and Note that the rabbet on the front face is raised panels. So they have to be resawn to a wider (I") than the one on the back (%") so Next. I made the door rails fJI. X) and thickness of%". see Fig. 32. it fits in the rabbet on the doer stiles. rnuntins CYl. 1'0 determine Ille length of Clll11NG11lE TENONS.To avoid confusion C\II'1O wimu, To permitthetenons to fit these pieces. first measure the distance be- when cutting the tenons on the ends of the in the mortises. you have to trim them to tween tllecab;ltetstiles (0) and divide by two rails and muntins. Imarked the front and width. First Iriln Ole shoulders by cutting (for lWO doors). Thensutiti'uct4" (forthe two back faceof all of the pieces. %" from Ute comer of the rails and I-l/' on the door stiles). and add 2/' (for the 1"tenons on Now. on therails (butnotthemuntias) cui muntins. Then cuta l'4"·wide notch in the each end.) a W'-deep rabbet at the ends on the bacll tenon on tile top upper door rails to cr ea te As for width, cut the two railsiorthe topof face. see Fig. 33. two tenons. see Fig. 32. (Cut the notch 1II the upper door (yI) to a width of 4W'. the Next, tum the rails over and cut a rabbet deep to align ",lOl the inside shoulder.) other six rails 00 2"wide. and the sixmun· on tIlefro,,1 face 10create 8 'Vl6"·thicktenon There's one more step, There's a tittle lins M :y," wide. thatfits the mortise. see Fig. 33. Also cut this area UDder Ole outside comer of each rail RES.-l,V 1I1UNTINS. The muntins are same rabbeton thefront faceof (he muntins. (alongside the teoon) that has to be cleaned out with a chisel. see Fig. 32. MUNTINS BACKRABBEr. After all of the 33 TENONS
DOOR RAILS
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'Vi." CLEAN OUT SHADED A~EA_ WlTH QiJ5R utmL IENON ms IfIOlifiSt
PANELS, STOPS To make the raised panels (2) that fitin tile lower doors, start by edge-gluing enough ~'cthickstockto make (our panels. Then cut the panels to 6t in the rabbets on the back of the doors. (Oon't 6t them too tight. They may expand with changes in humidity.) ROIJT COVE. I didn'l want wide-bordered raised panels In the lower doors - that would dominate tile design 100 much. So I ROUTER
35
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34
routeda%"·widecove around the front edge of each panel. seeFig. 35.'fo db this, make a series of passes (move the fence between passes) with a core box bit until the cove extends to the edgeofthepanel. see Fig. 350. K£E1'ERSlRJP.To hold thepanels.lnto the rabbets, 1 made lll"·thick keeper strips and screwed them behind the panels. see Figs. 36b and36c. GlASS STOP. To hold the glass in the upper doors. I made l,!.1"·thickstops. Miter the
tenons fit the mortises, cut a rab-
bet On the back inside edges of ali the rails (but not the muntins) to accept tile glass or panels. 111is rabbet is 'It" wide on the six rails 00. see Fig. 32. However, the rabbet on the two top upper rails (W) is 2'1.41" wide. (This wide rabbet makes the upper door rails look like difficult pieces to cut, But they're really no different that the six "regular" ralls.) ARCON1:t>P RoUt.. Next, layout and cut an arc on the bottom edge o( Ibe top upper door rails (W). see Fig.34. Now assemble the doors checking (or square.
SlQPSat Ole corners" and then tack them to the stiles. see Fig. 36a, (Shop Note: The notch alongtheedge ofthe glass stop makes iteasier to remove ifthe g1ass should break) tIINGE MORnSES. Before mounting tbe glass. r cut matching hinge mortises in the door and cabinet stiles. refer 10 Fig. 26. FINISH "'~D IlARI)WAR£.The only thing that's left is to stain and finish the cabinet. Thenmoum the door catches and latch, see Exploded View on pageS.
UPPER DOOR
36
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No.6l
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Woodsmith
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Shop Notes TIGHT FIT SHOULDERS • \VIlen Iwas cutting the tenons on the aprons fortheShaker Han Table. 1 wanted them to liL without gaps. To accomplish this. 1 undercut the shoulders on all 01 the tenons. refer to pholOat righL UNDERCUI'mE SHOULDERS.
Underculling is simply a mauer of paring away a small amount of theendgrain (;\1;4" or less) along the inside corners on the four shoulders oUhe tenon. The trickis to undercut the i.sidtcomersonly ,leaving at least • \116" wide border on the end of Ille shoulder. ifyou don't teave a border. and cutaD the way to the
1
f
edge. you'lI have a gap tbal shows and the joinl will be loose. USE SHARP CUISEt. Start by lightly pushing a chisel straight into the comer (wilh the fiat back of Ille chisel against the cbeek of the leoon), see rag. 1. Do this aD the way around the tenon. Then. to remove the waste in the comer. angle the chisel in toward the cheek ofthe tenon and remove a wedge of material. see Fig. 2. Shop Note: Besidesundercutting the shou.lders 10 get a good lit. I aiways cut Ihe mortises slightly deeper than Ille length of the tenons, By doing this. the
shoulders are going 10 "bottom out" before the end of the tenon bits the bottom of~e mortise. GLUe AREAS.Besides getting the tenons to fit correctly. there's also a little trick when gluing IllejoinL I've found that the square ends 01a tenon willactuaDy peel glue away from the inside faces of the mortise and push all the glue 10the bottom. CUAMPRR TIlNO!< EDGES. To prevent this, cur a slight 15' chamfer alongthecomersonhe teoon willl a chisel, seer.g. 3.lt doesn'l take mucb of a chamfer. about \16" wide wiD do.
Tohelpgeta.ti{lhtjoilltUII e, ""Ihe .hhuld ...... J auo CIa the mortise j1ut .Iightlll dtepu Il«ln Ihelength oftM teno»,
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3
UGtmY QtISEl ooWN AlONG TfNON INTO SHOUI.M:.
ROUTING A PLATE GROOVE • After making the adjustable shelves for the Corner Cabinet. I decided to rout what's called a "plate groove" along the back edges of two of the shelves. This groove holds plates uprighl 10 display them. CORE BOX BIT. Mer some tests. Ifound that a l't' core box bit routs the best groove. When the groove is centered 2" from Ille back edge. il bolds pIa~at a nice angle. T¬ MMPtAT£. The problem was t.o rout a groove that turns the
comers and runs along 3111llree back edges. Idid this by mounting a guide busning attached 10 the base of the router and used it to follow a ~. Masonite template that's IirmIy clamped
12
to the top of the shelf. router. or you can buy a univerShop Note: Router guide sal base with bushings. see bushings fit onto the base of a lVoods.,ilh No.42. router and are designed 10 IolThe crick when using this Iowa template. You can buy technique is Iiguring out the bushings for your specific eXaCIsize olthe template. Since r:::::-:==::::::::-;;<::;<';:O::-7-71 I wantedthe plate toUT COUNTt~LOCKWIS6 groove to be A>OUNO centered 2" from the back edge of the shelf. the template had to be cut at ItaSt 2" short of the back oltheshelL But you also have to take into consideration the diameter of the guide bushing. In this case I used a guide bushing with. Woodsmith
diameter ~6" radius). This meant I had 10 cu. thele01plateatotalof~6"short of the back edges of the shelf. FLUSU WITti FRONT. After making the template, Iclamped it nush to the front of Ille shell and 2!¥t6" from the back.
W' outside
ROUT TKE GROOVE. Next,
mount the guide bushing and core box bit in the router and lower the bit so it takes • ~'. deep cut. Once everything is set up. rout in a counterclockwisedirec· tion around Ihe template. To rout a smooth. "burn-frec" groove, press the bushing up lightagainstthelcmp13te. Make one continous Pass and don't slow down while routing.
No.61
NOT
SHOP
ES
MITERING CROWN MOLDING • Fittingcrownmoldingaround the top of. project suCh as the Comer Cabinet in this issue usually means cutting a compound angle. One way to do this on a table saw is to angle the miter gauge and tilt the blade. n,.SO two angles are not that easy to figure out without referring to a chart. Butlfthe moldingcan betilted to Ute angle it will be when attached to the project. the blade can stay at 90'. and only the miter gouge need be angled. AIJXlIlARY FENCE. To do this for the Corner Cabinet. I screwed an awaliary plywood fence to the miter gouge. The
auxiliary fence bas to be high enough to support the molding when it's Slanding up as it will appear on the Comer Cabinet. see Detail in drawing.
D01I8L.£.DUIY KERF.The back
of the molding for the Comer Cabinet has a W' kerf cut in it This kerf is intended to acccpl a splinewhenthetopisassembled (see page 9). but I found it can be used foranother purpose. Ifyou sllpa narrow (lW'-wide in my case) strip of WI" Masooitein the kerf. and then hold the Masooiteagoinstthe auxiliary fence. it helps support the molding in the correct position while it'sbeingcuL
)IAIONG THE CUT. Now. to miter the crown molding for the front on the cabinet rotale the miter gauge 10 22Y,- (this reads 67\1' on some miter gauges), Then bring the molding (with the Masonite strip in the kerl) tight against the auxiliary fence so the base of the molding is nal on the table. And make the cut. To CUI the other end o( the Iront piece. Ijust moved the miter gauge to the opposite slot and turned il 10 the opposite 22\1' setting. One end of the side pieces of crown molding are cut the same way. but have a 90' cut on the
other end.
ROUTING DOWN THE CENTER • When routing the mortises (or the lellS on the Shaker Hall Table, there are three basic steps to set up the router table: I) setlingtheheightofthe biL2) centering the width oithe piece. and 3) setting the length of cuL SET BIT HEtGHT, 1 set the height of the bit by using a combin.Hon square, see photo. We (ound the combination square works best because it sits Oat against the top aftherouter table while you set the height. (Always set the height on the bit first Ifyou weretocenterthe bit first and then raise it you might move the bil off center.) CE!>'T'£RI"Gwmm, After the height is set, I set the fence 10 rout down the center of the workpiece. The methnd I used works well. as long as youbave a scrap piece exactly the same widUI ;'S the workpiece. ROUCHCENTtR. FU'!
you're off center. tum the scrap piece around and rout into the oPMsil, end about!". Jf the
you), move U,e fence forward. SET CtIT LENGTIJ. The last thing to do Is to set the length of second Cut touches either the CUtwith a stop block. I used shoulder, you have 10 adjust the combination square agoin. yourfenee. Set the ruler in the Square 10 f1NE1lJNtNG.To find out how the right length needed. Now far off center the cutis. measure place the Oatedge of the bandle thedepthofthesecondcuttcthe against the cutting edge of the edge of the shoulder on the first bit. S<.'C Fig. 2. cut. Then move the fence flail 'Ill.trick here is to setthe Oat tharamount, (Ifsusuallyapretty edge of the handle against Ute small dlstance.) clillillil edge on the bit and not If on the second cut. the bit against the shank. cuts on the bacR of the groove Once set, clamp the stop (away from you). move the block 10 the fence at the edge of router fence back. U it cuts On the ruler. Make a teSt.cut first, if the ".., of the groove (toward ifs okay, cut the mortises.
To .. t bit "eight.fl'"'' the edge o!lhtrolerlolhebottomoogeo! Ih. ""milt. NOlI)tel 'MAler,,~t 10Ihe bil,lhet. adjusttheheight.
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No.61
Woodsmith
•
13
HEIRLOOM
PROJECT
Shaker Hall Table The Shakers are known for designing furniture with clean, uncomplicated lines.This solid cherry hall table is based on the timeless quality of Shaker design.
T
raditionally. Shaker tables have tapered legs - sometimes turned (round). sometimes square. "Thisversion has legs with a square taper cut on a table saw. It's a relatively simple technique thJJl"s made even easier with a sliding platform jig (page 20). While we were at it. we also tested the technique of tapering the legs on a jointer (page 22). The overall Oow of work for III is table starts by making the legs. Then Ill. aprons and the from assembly (with the two coenings for the drawers) are added to form the basic shape of the table. Allofthese piecesareioined together with traditional mortise and tenon joints. If you
14
haven't tried this
of joinery. it's 001 as difficult as it sounds. It can all be done ona router table (for the mortises} and on atable saw (for the tenons). The table top is made by edge-gluing boards together to form a large blank. As with all edg~ued pieces. the selection of the stock i. important I try to matcb the grain patterns and the color as closely as possible. With a good match, thejoint lines are almost impossible to see. nil! DRAWERS. For the drawers 00 this table. you have achoiceofjoinerr: dovetails. or. locked rabbet ioint.We used the locked rabbet (page (9). But if you opt for the dovetail joint, one easy method is to use a type
Woodsmith
router and special jig (lVoodsmith No. 58). By the way. the drawers are si%ed so routed do,-etai]swiDwork Oul evcnly. flNlSU. I built this table out ofcherry. On. of the keys to success when finishln8 a project made of cherry is patience, It taxes time for the wood to reach the rich red color
that cherry is known (or. \\'hen it comes {rom the lumberyard, cherry is usually a lighl pinkorsalmoncolor. There's no need to stain lt ro gel the dark color. As soon as the finish is aPplied, \he wood will darken somewhat. With time (about six months) and continued exposure to sunlight, it will tum a rich, dark red. II's well worth the wail.
No.61
EXPLODED
THE LEGS
VIEW
1 'h' SQUARE TOP OF LEGS
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TAPER ~STARTING
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FRONT RAil
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TAPER FROM
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MATERIALS LIST Ove
Legsl41
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No.6!
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8 8ocI< Apton111 C SMIe Apton. (2) o F"",I Roils121 E Front End. (2) ~A )Ii 'II, x F Front
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DIAGRAM
11h" • 31/4" • s7'" (3.'
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will be cut. (It's best to cut the mortises before ta~ring the legs.) The mortises are r---:::-----, Thisproject Starts by easy to cut on a router table with a \4" making the tapered straightbit<1ee Fig.la. legs. Begin by cutSETUP ROUTER."Toset up the router table ting four leg blanks for Ihe mortises. start by raising the bit !¥to" (A) from 8/4 cherry high. (This is V"f' more than Ibe length of stock (which is 1'1it" the tenons On the aprons to allows little glue iilick actual). Each relief at the bottom of the mortise). Then leg blank is then move the fence until the.bit is centered on '-------' trimmed down to the thickness of the leg. (There are some ll'.!" square, by 28V," long. refer to the Ex· tricks to setting uptheroutertable, see Shop ploded View. Notes, page 13.) MOR'llSES. After cutting the legs to size. The length'ofthe morose is set by clampmark two adjacent sides where Ibe mortises ing a stop block to the fence 514" from the
THE LEGS
right side Of the bit, see Fig. 1. Now you can cut mortiseson twoadjacentsides,automarically Slopping the leg using Ille stop block.
TAPER1.EGs.Afterthemortisesarerouted, the next step is to taper all four sides of each leg. To cut the tapers. I used a sliding platform jig on the table saw, see Fig. 2. (This technique is.shewn in detail in the article on page 20. Also, the method for tapering the legs on.ajointer is shown 0" page 22.) Whatever method you use, Ille point is to cut a taper on each side ofllle leg tharstarts 6" from tile top end and tapers down so Ole bottom end is 1" square. This meanscuttiog J/.j" off each side, see Detail in Fig. 2.
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TI-'''''-j divider (l') 31;'t' long. (This insures Ihatt"'e grain will run the same direction as the lop After the tapers are and bottom rails.) ASSE,'WLE FRONTAPRON. After cutting aU cut on the legs: the five pieces for Ule front apron. glue and nextstepis tocutthe front apron assernb- clamp the dividers between the top and bot· ly, This apron as- tom rails, see Fig, 3. Make sure the center sembly consists of divider (F) iseenteredon the length, and the five pieces glued end dividers (E) are flush with the ends. together to (orm two .'\l?I\ONS. \Vhile this assembly is drying, '-------' drawer openings. cutlllebackand side aprons. Startby ripping see Fig. 3.To make the front.apron, start by lhestockiortltesepiecestoacommoDviidth ripping two pieces I" wideby31" longforthe of 51h".Then ell' uie three pieces to finished lengthsoflOl'l!" tor the sides, and 37"forthe top and bottom rails (0). To make the three dividers for this front back. (The back apron should be exactl~ as assembly. ripa blank3W wide. Tljen cutoff wide and as long as the front assembly.) €ur GROOVES.To support and guide the two end.dividers (E) 2~" long. and a center
THE APRONS
drawers, cross members (G,H,J) are mounted into WI·wide grooves that are cut along the inside face of the front and back aprons, refer to Fig. 11. POsmON OFGROOVE.The position of this grooveis critical. Irhasto be cutso when the drawer runners (I) are mounted. they're flushwith the bottom railotthedrawer opening. reier to Fig. llc. To set up-the saw tor thls position, adjust the Ience so Ibe distance from the inside edge of the rail (Ille joint line shown in Fig. 4a) to theinsideedgeofllledado blade equals tllethlcknessofthestockIorlhedrawerrun· nero (This meansyou measure from the joint line, oot Ille rip fence.) Then cut grooves in the front and back aprons, see Fig. 4.
3
16
Woodsmitb
No.6l
THE APRONS
C(lNlNJED
Now teaens can be CUI on the eods of the aprons 10 61 the mortises in Ille legs. I cut them on the table saw, see Fig, 5, T'ENONS, TIle tenon is formed by cutting W'·wide rabbets on both faces of the aprons, To do this, Iused a :v,.··widedado blade and moved a wooden auxiliary fence over the blade so only W' was exposed, see 1"18' 5.
Sneak up on the final heighl of the blade by raising it and making a passon both faces of a scrap piece until the tenon filS the mortise in the legs. Once set. cut rabbets on both ends of all four aprons to produce tenons centered on the thickness of the stOCk. Shop Note: Iundercut the shoulders of each tenon to gel a tight fit against the leg. (See Shop NOles. page 12 for more on this) NOI'CR TE!
lenon has to be notched 10 fit the mortise, seeFig.7.Sincethemortisesareroundedon the bottom. Icui the tenon a titUeshorter SO Ididn't have to square-up the bottom of the mortise. This means cutting a:}1j" notch on the bottom of each tenon, see Fig. 6. END PtECES.To make assembly easier later. Iglued a pairof legs 10the side aprons to produre twocompleteend units. But don't glue Onthe froot or back aprons yet.
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Next. tbe nine cross membersare cut to fit between the fronl and back aprons. Two of these pieces are for the drawer guides (G), three are used
length for the cross members. Now add W' for the two ~'40ngtenons. (Although the grooves are !i1s"dee), the tenons are only 14" long to allow (or a(ljustiog,) Aftercutting the plecesto length, fonn ihe tenons by cutting V."·wide by V,'-deep rabbets at both ends, see Fig. 8. DRAWER GUIDES. The two drawer guides to mount the top (G) also have a groove cut down the center, (H), and four are used for the drawer run- see Fig. 9. This groove guides a pin that's ners (I), see Fig,IO, mounted on the back of the drawer. CllI'TO SIZE. First rip enough stock l-\1!"· TOP MOlll'
v....
each end on all three pieces, see Fig. lib. TAJlLE'IOP. Now glue up a blank for the table lOP 0>. Then cut this blank to final size so it overhangs the side aprons by lWOand the front and back aprons by IW'. A!).~eMOLY.After the 1~1rtSare cut, dry~lSsemble the table. Ifeverything is okay, glue and clamp the front and back aprons to the legunits-ma!rlngsure thecross members areinpositioobul.otglutdin. (fackthem in after assembly.) There's One important thlngtowatch, Referlo Fig.lllosee how the rabbets on the cross members facedowlI on the drawer guides (113), but up on the lOP mount (lib), and drawer runners (11c), TOP. Now center the table top on the aprons and screw (don't glue) itdown to the mounting cleats, see Fig. lib.
a.
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) No. 61
Woodsmith
17
THE DRAWERS TheJirst step in making the drawers is tccet the piecesfor each drawer to size. FRONTS. The drawer fronts (K) are cut from 'Ii."·thickstock The length of the froot is 1V16" more than the width of the drawer opening. This tl16" measurement aDows a %" lipon both ends (%" total). minus!116" for clearance. As for the height of the drawer trent, measure the height of the opening. add for the lips. and subtract \16" for clearance. SIDES. Thesides (l) are cutfrom W-thick stock. Cut them to width Oleight) to match the height of the araweropening, minus \16" for clearance. As for the length of the sides. measure the depth, of the table (from the front of the drawer opening to the back apron). Then subtract about \I,'" from this measurement. 1'T{£ SACK The back (M) is cut to rough width to match the drawer sides and to rough lengthto malch the drawer front (lt's trimmed to final size after the joint is cut) I.cOKED RABBEr JOINT. After cutting the pieces to size. rabbets are cuton the top and bottom edges of the drawer front to form lips, refer to Step 100 the next page. Then the locked rabbet joint can be cut on theends of the drawer front. This prccedcre is shown in Steps 2 and 3 on the next page. I)RA'VER SIDES. After culling the tongue on the drawer froo~the companion dado is cut in the drawer sides to complete thejoint, refer to Step d on then~page. ORA'VER SACK- A variation of rhis,joint is used 10 join tlie draw er back to the sides. First.trim the back to fioallength. To getthis length, measure thedistance from,"d tqend of the tongues on the drawer front and cut the back to equal this measurement. Tocuta locked rabbetjoint tojoin the back to the sides, firstcut a rabbeton both ends of
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ROUND OVEREDGES. FIrst, round over the front edges of the drawer front with a 14" round-over bit; see Fig. 13. Now glue the drawer together, making sure it's square. GUIDE PIN. Wben the glue is dry. I added a guide pin on the top edge of the back. see Fig. 12b.'This pin is a No.6 x'li." brass screw that's screwed part way into the back. Then cutoff the head to leave a guide pin. One other detail is to cut .a slightcbamfer on lhe back edge of the drawer so it can be lilted into the opening, see Fig.l6a. KNOB.F'lOaliy,l drilled 14" holes2~' from each end of the drawer front and mounted two knobs' to each drawer. see Fig. 12a.
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the back to leave 1't"'1hicktongues. see Fig. 13. Then cut a 11I'"widedado in the drawer sides 10 accept this tongue. ORAWER B01TOM. Before assembling the drawer, cut a groove (or the plywood bottom (,N). This groove is located up from the bottom edge.qflh~/ip on the drawer front, see Fig. 14. On the drawer-sides, i~s14"'from the bottom edge, see !'1g.IS. After the grooves are cut dry assemble the drawer and cutthe drawer bottom 10 fit Then trim the back 10 width so itresl;wlI top of the piyweod bottom. All the basic pans fo.the drawer are cut but there are a few details to take care ot
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No. 61
S T E P
BY
S T E P
Locked Rabbet Joint There are probably a dozen Ihe drawer front. a lAI"·wide tongue. (The W' joints thatean be used tojoin the RA881iTs.The 6rst step is to thickness of the tongue is based four comers oia drawer. One of cut rabbets Oips) on Ibe top and on Ihe width of the kerf left by the easiest (and strongest) is a bottom edges of the drawer the saw blade.) locked.rabbet, Itdoesn '( require front. see Stell!. 11,e tongue is completed by any fancy ~uipment-all thai's TONG'UE. Then a tongue iSCUl trimmingit toa length of -14'1, see needed is a table sawand a corn- on bothends ofthedmwer front. Step 3. bination blade. DADO.To complete the other 'Vhen cutting fhis tongue, stand The version oflhejoint shown the drawer front on end and cut balfofthe joint, a W'·widedado here is [or a -drawer that.has a a groove on the end of the stock, is cut on the inside face of ilie lipped edge all the way around seeStep2. Then widen it 10 leave drawer side, see Step 4. em
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After ""tling U,. drow8r j'rollt to1vidtll 0,,4 Untg!lt,
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"",d botto in el/,ges. Set the blade,%' hWh a,ut Qcij'l$t tit.
f."ce 'Ill' .from tne ",aside of 1M blajle. To comnlel6 m./Jliet, set fo'«:!l 'III' from in.ure of blddil alU. adJu.t blade Might
to '/IIJlc/t 1M fit$( cut;
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OJT TWO RABBETS TOf' AHD "IOnOM FOR v.~II Va" ORAW1:R UP
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To cut IMitmfllt., set the blade height to 'Ul' to ~cTthe ~lickll6S' ofth.
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No,61
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I USE FRONT AS
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Woodsmi[h
19
TECHNIQUE
Tapered Legs There are several ways to taper legs. One of ehe methods we like best is using a slidingplatform on a table saw. It hoUls the leg securely and sets the angle for all four sides automatically.
O
ne ofthe most common ways'lo taper centerpoint of the leg) drill a \!.iltdia. bole legs is with a jig that has two arms with a bradpoin~bital)d push in a \!.i" dOwel. hinged at one end, see the inset drawing ENDFEN'CE,When the leg is mounted to below right. Although this jig works okay. the jig, thisdowel slides into a hole in theend l've alwaysfound ita littleunsettling 10use. fence on,the jig, see-Step 5. One of the initial It doesn't hold !he workpiece (leg) very problems wehad was getting the hole in the well- so you wind up in an awkward posi- fence in exactly the right position. Then we uon trying to hold the workpiece tight discovered a trick - actually two tricks. against thejig, while at the same.time trying To make the end fence, cut it to width to p~sh it through the saw blade. (height) 10 matcb the thickness of Ibe leg. Youalsohavethe problem ofchangingtbe Then draw out the same "X" pattern on tile angle of the jig's arms, That is. tbe'first two face of Ule fence, see Detail in Step 3. (This sidesofthe leg arecutat one angle, Then the duplicates the pattern On tile end of the leg.) angleofthearmshas to be doubled tocutthe Now drill a hOle aUIl. crosspoint other (WO sides. The second Irick haste do with mounting the fence to the platform. In order to get a SUDING PLATfORM v..n taper on each side of the leg, the cent er • Considering the difficulty of using this jig, point on the end fence has to be shifted J4" we wanted to COOle up with a new method. closertothe edgeofthe sliding platform (the The jig we settled Onis aslidingplatform for path of the blade). So all you do is shift the atablesaw.Thisplatfonnsolvestheproblem of holding the workpiece securely. INDlOONGMEnlOD. We also came up with a way to index the four tapered cuts on each side of the leg.The theory behind this procedure istowork arou ad the centerpolnton the end 01 the leg. To do this, draw lineson the boltom oithe leg, conneetingoppositecomers, see Step4. At the point wbere the lines cross (the
V."
20
Woodsmitn
•
whole end fence so it. extends \I.," over the edge oflbeplaiform, see Step 3. SIDE FENCE. There's another fence mounted on the platform to hold the top end of the leg, To position this fence, draw a line on theleg to indicate the starting point olthe taper. (For the Shaker Hall Table. Ulis is 6" down from the top end.) Place the leg on the platform with the dowel (in the bottom end) mounted in the endfence, seeStep5.Thenposilion thetaper start.line (near the top end of the leg} on the edge ofthe platform, see Step6, Now draw a line along the backedgeoflhelegto indicate thepositionofthesidefence. Thenscrewthe fence to the platform, see Step 7, HOIJ) DOWN. To complete the jig, I added a hold-down clamp. You can make this bold down with alew scraps of wood, as shown in Step 8, However, I like the ease of using • quick·release clamp, as shown in the photo above. (Sec Sources, page 24.) PROCEDURE. To cut the tapers on the leg, mount the leg on the platform and push it through I)le blade, see Step 9. Then loosen the clamp. rotate the leg. and cut the next side. There's no need to change the angle because you.'re working off the centerpoint ontheend olthe leg.Itwillautomaticallycut four even tapers on each side of the leg,
No.6!
SET GUfOE RUNNEl! IN SLOT A~D CUT OFF WASTE
CUT TO
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The sliding plalform is a of Pia... tI.4J platjonn on Ule I4bU Sal. Rip the 61,dfen ce 10 same height as p"'Jwood about Q' wid. by ss: 1o'l{J. alUi cut off tne edge. Thi8 way YO'", leg. At one end offence, rj-,'a1() a.;-t IfX" C1tta groove to' Iwld a strip Ihat fits itt the k"!(fI. 1M edge ofule plat!o:n>. ie exa.Uy in drill II v.,' hote aI. CT()$8PQi"t. Screw miter gauge .IO't 0''1 yO'urtable saw. linewitk the cutting pafh, of lite blade. doun.f6llCe8Ditoverhangs.du. by 11.,'.
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DOWELKG
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US( SAME X PAtrEltN ON END OF LEG AND 'Ace OF FEtKE
START UN.E WfTK EDGE Of-
Tofind the center of the leg, draw an Ins.rt",V.,'-dia. dowelinth •• ndofU,. 'Toposilio>!u,.esidef61lce, mark.a-I;,te 4 UX" th« bO'tto,,,end O'fth.leg (con5 6 0''' tne leg wllere the lapin' _. leg. (11can &e (?,im"'~fl'{S" la1m-10 necting the corners). TII8Itdriit a v,,' hal. plug the hole.) The,tinsert tkeDllter emtDf Place fh,is l;"e Ot. U.e edg. of plat!o:n>,. at the crosspoin; for a. v,,·-dia. dowel. the dowel i>!tome hole i" II",endfln.ee. The"mark Ih. back edge m.U,eplatform. 0><
SHOP MADE HOLl). DOWN ClAMI'
MAtC!1 SiDE KNCE S"HOstltR THAH HEtGHf Of
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If USINGA
Cut tne side fence so it's ehorier than TJLisis a.simple way to make a hold» To cu: the tapers, pus" the sliding 7 lleight of leg, the" screw.t 10 the plat- 8 down.. Use scrap pieces to form: a,t. 9 plo,ifOtm past saw blacle. The" form, Por a .hop-made Iwi.d down "£ ar"~ If a qltick-reteMe clamp is 1Ised (see lOose" the Iwld dow,. and rotate the leg 10 the
(1/ ..
step), add a ca,."iage boU/rO)nlite bottom. photo), Ihefence s/lOutd be l"~·wide.
No.6l
Woodsmith
cIa tapers on. the otner three side«.
21
TECHNIQUE
Tapering on a Jointer !
ryouha'1eaiointer, tapering a leg is a snap, Therearejust two steps: 1) setthe depth of cut, sod 2) make the.cuts. OEP1'R OF cur, If you want to taper the legs v.," on each side, and your jointer will make a WI depth of cut, the process iseasy, Just set the depth of cui to W' (see Step I), and then make two passes on each side of the leg. OTHER TAPERS, For other tapers, divide the totalamountof taper you want (at the bottom of the leg) by the number of cuts you want to make (allowing for the maximum depth of your jointer), Forexample, ifyouwanrto taper-the sides of a leg so the bottom is :VIs" less on each side, setthejointerto a ¥.!t, depth of cut and make (WO passes oneachstde or the leg, PROCEDURE. The basic procedure begins by marking a line where the taper starts. Then tum on the jointer sod caiefully lay the leg down so the-start line is righl on the front edge of the outfced table, see Step 5, Be careful 'here. You have to move the
guard out at the way to lower the leg, Practicewiththe motor offto getthefeel oflowering the leg with your hands out of the way, Although the procedure is easy, there are a couple problems you can run into. Since the jointer knife (blade) starts cutting-about W' in front oUhe edge of the outfeed table, tile taper won't startexacUy on the line.This is okay because it allows a little room for sanding wi!houtcross;ng over the line,
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EUMINAlll'lG SNIP£. Another problem you run into when tapering on a jointer is snipe, Snipe is the indentation thars usually seen at the beginning or end ofajointed board, Typically, a snipe is caused when the jointer knives are set too high in relation to the out(ced table. BUI even if your jointer is set up' exacUy right, you can still have a little snipe appear at the beginning of a taper cut because the leg is ang~edas i~s lowered onto the j(>~'ter, see Step 2, The easiest way 10 eliminate this problem is to wrap two layersoimasliing tape.around the leg at Ibe start line, see Step 3, This raises the leg just enough so the jointer knife doesn't make contact as theleg is lowered onto the table. As the leg ismoved forward, lbe cut starts without making a snipe, see Step 4. (The maskmgtaoe is also handy {or numbering the sides of the Jeg to help you keep track of the cutting sequence, see Step 3,)
StARt UHf' MOW BlADE
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STAaT UHf
Silu;e tit. leg is angted whiJn it's To-make a V,,"taper each side To avoid snipe, wop "." lay.". of ~hiJ leg, align. 1 leg, place 0 straightedge "" lhiJ 2 plaeedon,thiJjoi,,!er, thekmife (blade) 3 1uill cut 811a/1iM inden.tati0l4 caUed ing Bilge of tape with the SUlrt line 0" til. joi"ter'sauljeedlablealldaTu!erwadju8t Oft
0/""
1>Itulki1lg tape U'TOI.,,(
It
ti,. infeed. labl. to make 0 1AI'.aeep cut.
STAJlT UNE' ~
twO LAYlitS Of ~G'A;Pl
$'I,ipe, (S",pe -ie_gg~df
leg, Afark tile siete. for cutting sequence,
clal-ity,)
(XNT\ Y !.OWER t£5.j DOWN ONTO BlADES
2
8y 1II>'appi'l!J ."aa/,;i1lg tape at lhiJ C.,'e/ully 10w67'leg "'uo thiJjointer so 4 .tart liM, it wil11'(lise Il,e leg just 5 thiJOOg.oftape(start lin.) alignsllJith slightly abow,llle h:tlife (bla
causea snipe tIt tilt /)(gi,,,.ing of tne cut.
legf""ward, maleing a completepo.ss, This
first po ss ereate« a taper on the-side of tile lega>ldnnwves ~'bytne time itgels to the bottom,of the leg, A seco"d pos. is n"ecIed to creat.o.full v.,·topm·attlre bottom,
No.6\
Woodsmith
22
------
,
-
----
SUPPLIES
PROJECT
Sources CORNER CABINET
TAPER JIG CLAMP
CATALOG SOURCES
Woodsmil/I is offering a collection of brass hardware for the Corner Cabinet.
1hequick-releasehokklown clam) showllonpage20isonewe have found useful on many jigs.
Similar hardware and supplies mo.ybe/ou"d in 1he/oliQwjng cololOI/$-HOI~lIVersty/1!$and sizes may vary. P/ei1$t refer 10each caIQ/og/orordeJi.lIg ill/Ormation.
C/\!lINer tL~RD\VARE
nOLO-OOWN C,-"",f>
Order No. 761400 535.95 Order No. 611-622 $13.95 '8Solid Brass Hinges. Tbese'clamps or similar ones '4 Adjustable Brass Ball Door are also currently available troll! Catches. some of the suppliers listed al • 2 Brass Door Latches. the right. Look [orcodeND after '12 Pin Type Shelf.Supports, the address Icr a supplier. This hardware or similar styles may currently be found in ORDER 1NFORMATION several of the catalogs listed at the right Look for code CC in To order project'SUpp1ies.use the fist at the right. the form OQ the protective cover 01 tllis issue, or caliloD For the Corner Cabinet we're free. Ifordering by mall, send offering the following finishes. order ana paymenl to: Code FS in the list at the right \Voodsrnifl) Pro;xtSupplies
~IIl'WAXWOOD CONDmONE;R
Order No. 51~38 '1 Pint Can.
$4.95
Pboneordenr. 8QO.444..7002
ftIIN\VA.'( E,t\RLY A.\lERlCAN !,TAJN
Order No. 513-111 '1 Pint Can.
$6.95
McCLOSKEY'S VARNISII
Order No. 514-357
1;'.0. Box 10350 Des Moines. la 50306
$10.95
'1 Quart Can.
8:30.AM to 4:30 PM Central TIme. weekdays only. Have your VlSAor MCready. 1'1ei!S" include $1.50 shippin8"tee. JA res. add 4% tax. Allow4 106 weeks for delivery.
Albert Constantine
Grizzly Imports
2050 Eastche$ter Rd. Bronx, NY 10461
P.O.Box 2069 Belling.am, WA98227
ce
HD
Allen Specialty Hardware ~32"Y. Bruceton Rd. Pittsburgh, PA 15236 Bob Morgan Wj)(ldworking 1123 Bardstown 'Road Louisville, KY 40204
Miesel Hardware P.O.Box70 Mound, MN 55364 CC Wood<;raft Supply P.O.Box 4000 \Voburn. MA 01888
HD
HD,FS
Craftsman Wood Service 1735'Y.Gordand'CI. Acldison,lL 60101
Tbe, V(oodworkers store 2180lloduslrial Boulevard Rogers, MN 55374
CC.HD
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Garrett Wade Hardware 161 live. oflheAmencas New York. NY 10013
\YWdworke",Su!1ply 5604 Alameda Place i'1.£. Albuquerque, i'1M87113
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General Finishes e.O.Bo"J4363 Milwaukee. W153214
Van J!)y~es
P.O.Box278 Woonsocket, SO 57:l85
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SHAKER HALL TABLE KIT Even before the shop drawings were completed for the Shaker Han Table,l knew it was something special.This Shaker Han 'Table is a beautiful example of simple and straight-forward Shaker design that filS in anywhere. I know how dil' flcult it can be to commit the time necessary to build aproject like this. So, we've decided to offer a limited quan-
TIle pieces for the drawers have pre ..rut joints. TIle drawer sides are 1'.1' poplar, Ihe bottoms are %2" bailie birch plyWOOd. AIw inchKled are lour cuSlOm turned cherry drawer pulls and two drawer guide pins. SHAKER ItAlJ.1'AlII.£
Order No. 761·200......... $189.95 • Ready to Assemble Kit. We have two different finishes Ior the Shaker Hall Table. TAIlt.E KIT. The tOI).legs. and
drawer fronts in this kit are all solid cherry. TIle top pieces are tity of complete, ready-to-assemble hand-selected. glued up, and kits for the Shaker HaliTable.AlI sanded Oat The five-piece front you need to complete.the project apron is precut and assembled. is glue, clamps, sandpaper, and a The legs have been tapered. and little time. all joint.s are pre-cut
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GENER.~L FINISHES
Order No. 518-203 $)0.95 • 'h PintStep.fH (Sealer). • 'h Pint Step 112(Finish Coat).
MINW.'" (mERRY STAIN
Order No. 513-0,69 • !l'll'int Can.
$4.95
HARDWARE ONLY I[ you would like to build the table "from scratch" the hardwareisavailableseparately. T/\JlU; IfARDWARE
OrderNo.761-300 $9.95 '4 Cherry Knobs. • 2 Drawer Guide Pins. '6 Screws thai hold Ule top to the aprons.
rtffll:\VAXM'I1QUE OIL.
Order No. 513-027 -I Pint Can.
Woodsmirh
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Usually we don't stain cherry. Ifyou' re patient, it ages 10a deep, rich patina. But. if you can't wait. we're offering Minwax Cherry Stain.
$7.95
No.6l
