'rh",'(!'s no doubt that tr-dditional Japanese Editor Donald B, Peschke homes (and their surrounding gardens) Design Oirec(or Ted Kralicek bring man and nature In close harmony while at the same time being practical and Managing Edrlor Oouglas L. Hicks cil'icient. Assistanl Editor Oouglas M. Lidster Yet, while I admire the genius of Japanese architecture, Japanese furniture Proje<:t oes;gner Ken Munkel design is not so much to my liking. And TedmicaJ IIIUslla10rs DJlvid Kreyling that presents a problem f"om the standCary Christensen point of a woodworker who wants to parRod Stoakes ticipste in some W!lY with Japanese d'lsign. Chris Glowacki I've been a lo~ more intei'\lSted in building a Japanese house than any piece of JaCUSlO_ SeI'!Icg Steve Oozier my hand at this ancient trade. I decided to l\dminisl1ative As$( Christel Miner build a folding screen made with lbree shoji frames. Slore Managers: Ai; we got wI<> the initial design 'stages, St lOOll\, MO Jon Behrle my hesitation about the PJ:Ojl'Otresurfaced. B
M._
2
'1'0 ~t a little realism into the shot, he
Japanese architecture amI Cl"dftsmanship. wanteil to hang the birdhouse on
a tree
limb outside our shop window. Within two days a family or wrens I)romptly moved in. 'l'l\ey worked on the nest, flying in and out, and at times Jlen:hing on the roof. It would have been a perfect shot, :But every time he opened the window to get a clear shot, the wrens became camera ~hy. The only tiroe they seemed not to care aboul Ted Wid the earners was in the late. aft.enloon or eveuing ,v'hen the light was low (too low for phoooJll'apllY without a .JJash). WeD, Ted didn't Jle~the shot he wanted. You'll have to use your imagination to see a camera-shy wren )lOkingher- head out of the birdhouse hole. Even with Our peJiodie interruptions, Ole wrens seem to enjoy
then:
new
nome:
and
\\'C
have enioyed
watching them bu.>ily building it. NEW FAellS. J usually announce new members of oun happy gnlilp in this column, But- last. year, when Kenj Welsh joined US as manall\)r of the Wl>od$lnilit Store here in Des 1I101nO$.l eornpletely for. got to mention him. 1 met Kent as he was helping us witll the remodeling of an old carriage house behiml OUtt main building, His' work was meti.ulous and caretul - especially on the construction of the mail) staiteaSe \\IC added to lead to the second floor. (It's a big coni.ge
house.) Before he could complete.hiswork'cn the carriage house, \VC were impressed enough that he was hired to take on the task. of running ow' home-base sl<>'~. For the past year he has worked bard to help all who come in the store. 'V~'l'e all gI;l leave 115 and devote full. time tIS moms, \Ve wish them
well, ANO'I'HER NEW FACll. '1'0 hell) fiU the gap, Lisa Thompson has joined us to help with customer se.-vice. She m ab-eadY working on the·fulflilmenL of the lOt olne ... that come in each aay. r think that witll h",' help we will be able to turn your order around \\1thin t\\fO (lays from the time \ve l~ive it. N'eXT ISSUE.Th. nest issue of Wood&mitk will be mailed during the week of August 2.9. 1988.
WOODSM1TI!
T_i~s & Technigu_e_s__
__
fiNE AIlJUSTMENT STOP BLOCK
J l1I3ke lap joinl$ frequenUy and use a $imple acijU8Ulbl. stop block for my table saw to aeeurately locate and cut the shouldel'll. 1'he stop block let.., me fine tune the location of the cut, To make the stop, screw a panhead SCI-ew 1lW"t way into the end of a scrap block. Then claml) the block to an auxiliary feneo .,,, .. wed I.Q the miter gauge »0 the screw head aets as a stop at the end of the workpiece,
Cut the top panel 8" wide and the bottern panel 9" wide, Then cut both 00 a common length. I found 48" a comfortable
length for accommodating most workpieces, but if you work with longer stock and have a" outfeed table or support, you can increase lhe length of the panels.
SCREWGUS When SCTC"ing two nl1l pieces of wood together, • gap ollA!n .ppeanl between the
two mating aurf....... The gap is usually caused by wood fibcrllth"~ have raised out of the back beard n.' the serew is driven in. tr using hardwood, no amount of tighten. ing will C011"OOt the problem.
~c_......
AUXJUAlY
.... a
toYTOM Of $HANIC
\,
to CIEATI -........,
HOt(
l1GH1VI SOlfW UH11t
To solve the Ilrcblem, 1 sIiglIUy eoemersink the shank hole on the .mdnside of the
CUT IS MADE ON
_tUNE
The two panels are held t.ogelber with %' carriage bol... and wing nuts, To driB the holes for the bolts, clamp the two pieces
t.ogethel· with the buck edges flush. Then drill two panels. Star!. by setting the
"",..,W
l"OW"
head so the
shoulder line. Then make a cut and check its location. Now sneak lip on the shoulder line by slowly tightening down the screw \I,th a screwdriver and cutting again until the eut is right where you want it. By turning the screw in or out just a titUe, you can reaDy line tunc the location of the cut. To l1I3ke Cl'O!
of holes 1"' rrom the back edge so the jig will accept wide
boards. The othor row is located 4~' i"rom the back edge ror narrow boards. On the bott.om side of the bottom panel. oounlerbore each hole ror the head of the
carriage bolt. ......a
fenee prevents the \\'orkpieee from ever
In 1VQ(}(/.'I1l1il"No. 53 a reader recommended cutting • atrnight edge on a crooked bollrd by I
Oat.. smooth boards, but when the work· pie<.e is rough or warped, this can be inef· (ecti,·. and even dang<>.rou.<. Instead, I use a .imple jig that holds the workpiece 6rmIy in place between two plywood panels. WOOOSMITH
Jit'l B61tini
Kersey, l'e1l1'.I/I","1i«
l"OW
sliding beyond the shoulder tines. lmcias: H. Broun: E",.../,,;'1', Mim.68oUl STRAIGHT·LlNE RIPPING JIG
front board. 1biI! creates a void ror any raised fibel'll to fit iruo, Ir you're aJreruIy set up to counl(!,..ink the top of the hole, it's easy to flip the boanI over and eounteraink the bottom.
or hole. through both of the
I 10000Wcl one
cut will be made jO$l a little shy of the
Sf:
PUNCHING TIN
In lV()O(f"'II1'jil No. 55 we featured a country pie safe and I1l1article on how to punck the tin panels (or the doors, After lhe article appeared we heard from a couple ",,,del'll who have built pie safes and offered twe more tin-punching methods: Edu,in Bdl oJ H,,,,,". IIII"oio mounts a punch in a drill 11Tl'l'i!.Then he sets the depth gauge on the drill press for the correct size bole when the punch is lowered, By moving the tin around on the driB press table and lowering the pWlCh into the tin. he punch es unir"nn hole&
/Jollg/as Stovall of /Jam'iII., Vily-inia uses an automatic
To use the jig, cut. couple spacer blocks the same thicknCAAl~ the workpiece and slip them between the panels aleng the back edge of tho jig (sec drawing above). This keeps the back edge of the t.op panel from tilling down when the werkpieee is fit along the front edge. Then stip the workpiece between the two panels and tighten down the wing nuts. Now \lith the back edge of the jig running along the rip rence, eut a straight edge on the workpiece. Steve Barrett ftfiw)ltJA, M07It(lna
cc.nt..er
punch that.'s nor..
mally used (01' metal Il1youl work. A punch like thi. ileU. ror about $10. It's a singlehand operation and can be acijusted i"rom shallow to deop penetration. The Ups can also be ,.. ground I.Q ditTerent hole Shapes.
1--------------1 SINO IN YOU. IDIAS
1----------------1 IIyou'd kkelO"'a .. I _illg lip wilh_ readers of Wood,mJth. send your idea 10: WoodSlTllth. TIJ)S & TecI1IUqut1$. 2200 G,and
_ad
Ave,Des _.Iowa 50312We pay amrioom 01S10 lor _ andS15 or more "" $I>801aI'ect>noQueo (ilia, are
"" pub!ieation). PIe... gwea CC<1lj1IeIoexplana· tion 04 YOU' Idea. If • Skelet1 IS needed. send i1
alOng;we'lf draw a new one.
3
___
F_o_lc_li_og Screen A DESIGN BASED ON JAPANESE SHOJI
'This folding screen is a sealed-down ve .... sion of • traditional Japanese shoji (proI10IlllCed show-gee). In Japan. shojis are used as sliding doon< or room partitions that run from floor to ceiling. Our version is .horter. It ean be used to divide offa sectioo of a room or as a dressing screen. 10 addition to the tdze. we've also made some other ch3nges. Jap.""''''' shojis have a eenter grid mortised into the frame with rice paper glued to the hack of the grid. The paper i. trtlditionaUy changed every year before New Year's Day so the how;e can begin the Y<:llT with a (regh start..
Each of !be sect.ions in our folding l5Cree n has tioo grids with a translucent "I.. per" sandwiched bel ween the grid" (We used • tough fibergl
• •
CUT FRAMES TO SIZ£
The Iirs l .tep in making the se'.... 00 ts to cut aU o( the frame pieces I W' thick. (Note: See l"lgC 22 1'0" a dL< (vertical pieces) and three ",il. (hOl;7.on~t1 pieees), To make enough part. for each frame. cut two stil es (A) to a width of t' and a length of 6IOW, see F'ig. I. (Thu. length is based on the ""Ilcing of tbe grid. If you W3I1t a diff.rent height lICf'C(·n.increase or decrease in increments of a·M," • - the ~igl!t of one grid section, RAIlS Aner the stiles .... cut to .iw. eet three roils (8) for each frame to a width of 2" and a length of 16"• see FiJ:. I. (NotA!: The rails start out at l~" thick and are later resawn to IV'- thick.)
"0
""""ls
fIGURE I
.. !-,
~~
104 .. _
.
1'' '-l.
__
"
..
GROOV£S
Once all !be I'rarne pi<..........
NOTE:
AU. flAME ...ECES STAIT OUT 1 '..'lo' TtflCK. aAJU AItE RESAWN LAI'E. fO I \I•• niICK. SEE fIG 4,
2'
the workpiece light. agllin~t the fenee, I clamped a fe.lhcrooard to the saw ~rble. WOODSMITH
4 -
-
-------
-
_,
Then rut two grooves on the inside edge of all of the stiles and r:dls. On the middle r:dl OI~Y,cut !be groove.! on iloilo edges. To CIIt the second groove, tum the piece endfOI'(!nd. (Note: If the stites are at all bowed, eut the grooves on the convex side so it bows in toward the center of the frame. Then !be grid wiU force the pieee
FEATHER 80'"'"
8U':IighL) END GROOV8S. NexI,
to aeeept the splines, cut matclUng grooves in the ends of the r:UIs. To do this, don't change the saw lIett.ing, but stand the raiL~on end and cut the end grooves, see Fig. 3. (Shop Note: r supported the workpiece with a wood block. A tenon jig would also W011<, but that require! """,Uing the fenee.) CUT TO TWCKl'IESS.After the end grooves are cut, tbe rails (8) can be cuI to final thiclmess. Traditional Japanese design C3lJs fer the rails to be thinner than the sllles. To do this, cut Vt off each rail USing a two-step method, soo Fig. 4. First, set the rip fence 1%' from the blade and cut \olI' off one side, see Step 1 in I'~g.4. Then move the fence in and cut \0{/' off the other side, see Step 2.
-,
I
lfAVE '£NeE ./
"',t"'"
,.........
"''::.,.
2
1
_. CHAMf'1 AU fDGfS OF SfllI$I!XCEn WH~RfENDSWET tAil
SPL.INES The frame is held together with aplinea thot fit in the grooves. 51.'111.by resawing stock to thickness to match the grooves. CUT TO WIl>'J'fI. For strength, the grain on the splines should ""' perpendicular to the joint line. This makes the splines wider than they are long, note grain direction in Fig. 6. 1'01' the splines (C) on the Lop and bottom joints, cut them to width to 6t from the edge of !be rail to the boUom of the Bpline groove (1 ~"), $00 Fig. G. Since there are grooves 011 both sides of the middle rail. the middle .plines (0) are cut to fit between tlte spline grooves (lV,t· wide).
WOODSMITH
,_~-
WASTE ONO'
CHAMFERS Before assembling the frame. I chamfered the edges. On the stiles, chantfer all of the edges except where the end of the stile meets the rail, see .'ig. S. On the rails. chamfer only the top edges of the top rail and the beuem edges of the bottom rail. Oon't chamfer the inside edges or the middle rail.
ASSEMBLY Once all of the sptill<)l! are cut to size, the frame can be "'.
Y.~
AHD IlAO[ SlmNOTHl $AMI! ,
MIOIlIf SPUNES @
S'IILE
NOTE: AU snl,l$ I 'I.- l'}1:lat
All RAILS I',,"" THICK
r....., .. NOTE:
C'HEC", THAt
ALL "EGIlS t,AY
FIAI AGAlNSJ ClAMI'S
5
...
_.
SIDEAND TOPIBOTTOM GRIDS @(l)
cumNG
After the fnun"" are complete. work can begin on the grids that fit inside the frames, AU of the grid pieces are '!low thick tin" held together with lap joints, Tho border picee" nro ¥.t" wide and the center pieces are o/,,~wide.
1 12 Nf(O(O AT 49'".OooH LENGTH 12N(lOEDAT
'; tOUGH LENGTH
........
r..-
I ,,
NOTE:CUT..as \1),.
WOE.nw< ""ISHCOS.... "._'"
"
,
,
"f ,
I
,
,
Of' "'"~
THEN !'lANE
, k/ ,
_,.
@®
camRGRIDS
1
GRID PIECES
"
2 1
y..
-e 6N[[OEOAf ..rIOUGH lINGnt
I
I-
7.NUD£OAI
I rlOUGH LENGn(
CUT TO wreru. Start by ripping 814(or l¥.t°.thick) stock into strips for the side grid ploees (E) and the top and bottom grid pieces (F), see Fig. 10. To allow for plan. ing, rip these strips a tittle (1(,,") more !han W' thlclc, _ Pig. 8. If yOUTe making three screens, cut at least four Y"w·thickstrips to a rough length of 4!r for the •• Ie grid pieces (E), see Step I ill Fig. 8. Also cut four y,°-thick strips to a rougll length of 1'7" for the toplbottom piece. (P), (I cut extra strips of every .i,.4) as j
I~ I' :
I~
center
,,:
hori,.on"'~ pieces (H), Then lay these suips down and rip six center grid pieces (C), and 73 horizontal pieees (H), see Step 2 in Fig. 9.
PUN!! TO SlZE. Once all of the p;..,.,. were cut to rough size, I planed the border pieces (E and F) to exactly ~. wide by
W' thick, see t'ig. 10. Then plane the eenter piece! (C (.nd H) to W' by %'. (1"01' more on pinning these pieees to exact. size,
see the tipo! on pages 22 and 23.) CUT TO "'~NG'J'Il, To detilrmine tile nnt~
U,.
length to Cllt the pieces, measure inside dimensiollll of the assembled framo
and cut the pieces to match. In my case, the vertical pieces (E, C) were cut 471/,." long and the horizontal pieces (F, H) were cut 16" long, see Fig. 10. ALIGNMENT &.&Y. Before setting up to cut the lap join"" cut an S"·long alignment key from on. of the .:
pieces, Resaw this piece to 0/",- thick. (This key is needed later, refer to Pig. t6.) DADO JIG
Once .11 tho pieces
IU-e
cut to size, I built
a simple jig to help whee cutting the dadoes, see Fig. IJ. Start with a "". Illywood base and sere w 2~'-high front lind back fe"""" to the base. A'M'ACH MrreR GAUGE. Next., set. the taltIe saw miter gauge to 90F and check that
it's cutting perfectly square. Then pOSition
6
WOODSMlTH
~ i
the jig so the blade cuts about in the eenter oC !.he jig, WId screw the miter gnuge to the back fence oC the jig. GUARD.To keep fingers away from the blade. I made a guard from a couple pieces of scrap and screwed it to the bad< fence. ser DADO. Now mount a 'K.' dado blade on the saw. Then nIi5e the blade so it projeels above the plywood and cut a ~'''-wide alignment slot in the bottom of the jig. CUnlNG THE LAP JOINTS Aller the jig'" complete, raise the blade so it's =dly one half the thickness of • %'-tlUck grid pieee, see Detail in Fig. II. Then cut the lap joints. Start by cutting 'h'-wide rabbets on the ends of all pieces to 181) over the Ytr;wide bonier pieces. (IABBETS. 1'0 ""t up for the rabbets, clampa squared atop block on the right side of the jig. The du.tance from the stoll bloek to the left side of the alignment slot is ~'. (Check this setting with one of the ~'wide grid pieces, see Fig. l2.) Note: Don't, switch to a \4' dado blade to cut tbose rabbets - you'll lose the'll<" alignment slot in the jig. lnstesd, cut the I','-wid" rabbets with a 'W dado blade, in two passe •. Start by cutting the llhouJders with the ends tight agninst the stop block I cut a number of pi"""" at the same tinle and held them down flat against the jig with " scrap block. see Fig. 13. Aller cutting the shoulder, move the pieces slightly away from the stop bloek and finish the rabbet with a second pass. DADO t.AYOlll". Next., lay oot tbe 10(,'wide dadoes on one of the center strips and one of the side strips (E and G). sec Fig. 14. Sp3ce out 13 dadoes (for 14 openings) elJ~mJybetwoon the rabbet. on th~ ends. (This should be un even 3' bot ween dadees.) AIl!o, 011 one of each of the shOl~ pieces (F and H). lay out the %'-\\;do dado so it's centered on lhe length, see Fig. 14.
FlGUIE 1. k££P$f'ACINOerrwuN
AU.t3 DAOOlS eVEN SlOE GIlD -
® c"",.
_GRID
@
cor THE DADOES. To rut the dad_. tine up tho first dado (on one of the layout, pieces) over the alignment, slot in the jig. Then clamp the stop bloek in plllA.~IW) it butts against the end of this piece, Now butt. all the other pieces against tho block and clamp them together, see ~'ili.15. Aller rutting the Iirst dado, slip the alig)lJ1>entkey (!hal was cut earlier) into the fir>"t dado, see Fig. 16. Now remove the clamp and cut the remaining dad oes by aligning the Jayout Jines with tho slot in tbe jig. (Keep the key in the dadoes. 1)0ll't fasten it to the jig as an "indexing" pin since any slight mistake in laying out the
dado will multiply.) Before taking the pieeesapart. mark the ends so you tan keep common ends the first.
same direction when the grid is assembled. SA.OR't P(ECHS. To cut the center dndoes on the shOlt pieces, locate the layout line over the slot and clamp the stop block to the jig, see .Fig. 17. Again. mark lhe ends.
WOODSMITH
7
ASSEMBLING
THE GRID
After all the dadoes are cut, tho grid C8n be assembled, Since e.lCh grid has 45 lap ~ joints, I started by making some !!hoI>made clamps. (Or you can use spring clothes pins.) lImO ClAMPS. To make the clamps. start by rai.,ing the OW dado blade to 1Yo.. above !he table. Then stand a piece of ·114 hardwood on end and cut • dodo through the end grain, see Fig. 18. Next, cut a piece 2W'.long off the end and then rip off some
®
QNlIll
1··wide clamps.
ASSEMBLY. To assemble a grid. lay one 'II;·."ide center vertical piece (C) down between two I(,··wide side pieces (E), see Fig. 20. Then put a smaI1 drop of glue on eaeh dodo and rabbet, and clamp the hori· zontals (F and H) in place ".th the marked ends facing the same direction. After the glue dries, test fit the grid into the frame. U it·s a little tight, plaoo the edges to make a snug fit. l( it'S 3 little loose, that's ol
/
STOPS
2
HORIZONTAL
STOPS
The grid is held in the frame with stops. I started by cut.ting t.he $tops a lit.t.le thicker than the widt.h of the groove and t.hon planed them to lit. (again. sec 1>OK"22). CUT TO ,'UJCI grid are longer than the vertical stops (K) that hold the panel in place. Since the vertical pieces butt agdillSt (inside) the horizontals, cut them to fit alter temporarily putting the horizontals in place. see Figs. 22 and 23. BonOM
®
VERTICAl STOf'S
PANEL
The bottom panel (called • hipboord on a shoji) can be either plywood or solid stock. Since 1 wanted the bultom panel (I) to match the rest of the screen. I glued up three pieces %. pine to make eaeh of the three panels (1). see Fig. 22. After the panels are dry. tut them to fit the boU.om opening. Ifyou use eoIid stock. and you're building in a dry season. you may want to make the width sIigt1t1y (Yo,,) narrower to allow for any .xpaMion ",th an inerease in humidity.
or
FINISH
Traditional Japanese shoji, rnrely rec:eive finish. But 1 wanted some protectlon 80 1 applied two coats of Deft; Clear Wood Fin· ish (semi-gloss). It's a durable finish. but. 1 found it diJlicult to brush on the grid pieces "ithout runs. Another li.me 1 might "'PC on tung oil or Mlnwax Antique Oil.
8
WOOOSMITH
ASSEMBLY
After the finish is dry, all of the pieces can
be assembled. The sereen is designed to fit into tho Cra me witJlOut glue. ASSI(MBLE BOTI'OM. To assemble the bottom (panel) area, insert the two borizontal stops (L) then the two vertical stops
SECOND, YttnCA1 STOPS
_CUT
10m
into the grooves on one side, see Fig. 22. Next, set the panel into the Ollellil1g and insert the stops on the olher side. (K)
ASSP.MBLE TOP. To as..--embie the top (grid) area, start by euUing the fibergb..s sheet to the same si7.e 'is the grid and staple it to the back of one grid. see Fig. 23. I drove th_ staples into the top borizontal on the grid with a staple gun and allowed the sheet to hang down. (Note: J f
you use narrower rice paper, join and glue it behind the center vertical) The n.
The three frames are connected with 1\<;'long by 2"-wide hinges. To lay out the location of the hinges, clamp two of tho frames together and mark around th. binge with an X-Acto knife, see Fig. 24. Locate one hinge 3V.· from c;1Chend and center the third hingo on the length. ROlTrMORTISES.Next, 1 routed out the IJl:Iiorityof the waste freehand. To do this, set a t
-
MA"RlAlS
c>terollOi.ment..iom
C ToplItm SpliMl (24)
o
'I. :I 1'h, -
1'/,,, 2 -
:v.
GRII>SIPANBS E Sides(12) , Top/elm Horilo "2) G c.nten (6) H Cent.,. Hom. (71) I Bottom Pont'lt(3)· STOPS J arid Vertical, (12)
'I, •
'h - 4771.
:an"
'h - 16
K ranel Venicoh (12)
y. • 1,1, -
l
:1,,-
~
F
.-:r
HINGE
]llPYJEW
DETAIL
CUTTING DIAGRAM
61'1. 1'/.&.2-16 'I•• I%-¥.
Midcb. SpIinb (12)
I:IIliG~eg~mQtj&
LIST
lila- d x 6t1' W:I 61~·h
A 51110$(6) B Roll! (9)
ffGURE26
'I•• ". - 4PA. -% " V. - 16 %.16-8
1~.".7·.~_rr '~
~ IV ..-. 7""0" _
rn
1.1
K~
'1::::!
~ lV.-.7'11'_7T
W ! .il I ;1 I E i .
lt~
,
, H
~
Ilf.·."'.:_7T
E
H
V•• ',1,-47%
rr
~..~
a: H
H
F
"
~
Komonlob. (24) y. " I)) _ lW. ·Edfe $Ilue N
WOODSMITH
9
Wall A PROJECT THAT REFLECTSTRADITION glued tottCther. To hold the joints tight while the glue dries, clamp the Iapp<.~1 come." with Cclamps, see I'ig. I. (Chock the inside corners with a square before oMI tlRI>tening of the clamps.)
Building a !mme is one of the b3sio procedures in woodworking. But il.'. not necessarily Doe of the easiest. On light for pictures and photos that don't have to he strong, Ijoin the parts with mioon.~1comers. But when the framo hM to he strong (for
rrnn,.,.
TRIM STRIPS A(\(tr the glue on the frame is dry,
large artwork or a mirror), r usually Ul!Oa mo!'til!(>and tellon joint. Another choice is a lap joint.
bim stril)S lire cut to cover the inside and outside edges of the rnune. These trim strips serve two purposes. First, their half·round forward edges add depth to the face frame, making it look molded (refer to Fig. 6). Second, tbe strips on the outside conceal the end gTlIinof the lap joints. CUTSTall'S. To cuI tbe strips, begin by cutling three 414 strips to • rough width of I~' and to rouRl>length. of 29'". 26". and 00'".
Tho biggest problem with this joint. is a ~ua1 Ol\e - it. aUO\\!S pari of the end gTlIin to he soon on the edges of the frame (refer
to Fig. I).
However, beeause the design of this frame indudes molding strips that cover the edges (and the end grain areas of the lap jointa), I decided to we lap joints. 8UILDING THE FRAME
To build the mime, the four sides are cut to size nnd joined with half laps. Bellin by ripping 414 stock ("y,,' actunl thickness) 1Us" wide. Then cut tllC fr-dIlle sides (A) ?:IV,/' long and the top and bottom frame I)ioccs (H) 21"'" long, sec ~~g. 1. HALf' I..AI'S. AJl.er the frame pieces are cut to length, half laps are cut 00 the end$ to join the come .... of the frame. There are two critical measurements for these lap joints, First, the distance from the end of the workpiece to the shooJder must be equal on all pieces, To e"'!llre this, I used the rip fence as 3 stop. Lock the rip fenee down so it's Iy,' (the width of the stock) from the far side of the dado blade, see Detail. Fig. 2.
Ne.xt., each strip is
1"'CSa\\'D
to
produce two V,'-thick molding stril)S (C. 0 and E). (To resaw those pieces. I used a Ulin push
SET HEIGHT. The second critical measurement is the thickness of each "lap." Alof the dado blade so it wiD cut nattly h"lf way through the stock. ('!'his win take ... me trW and error cuts on some test pieees.) When the height of the blade is sa form the laps by making multiple passes o'er the blade. GLUE PRAM&. AJl.er l1PS are cut On the ends of all four pie,:cs. the frame can be
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"tick made from V,/' Masonite.) JI"li Now they can be ripped to final width, The two outside strips (C) are ripped to 10/0," wide. see Fig. 3. The inside trim .trips (0) and the toplbottom strips (E) ru-e ripped down to ''''' ... wide .... Fig. 4. eDGE PROPlJ,.£. The front edges of all six strips are rounded using a \1,' rouncH>vcr bit. see Detail. Fig. 3. OlJ1'Sm& !l'rn1l'S. After rounding tbe edges, the ou",ide strijlll (C) can be glued to the frame. The key here is to glue them Oil so the rounded edge (at its full diameter) extends above the level of the frame.
fonn for the length of the I'rame. I made a simple gauge. The gauge is two strips of ~" Masoni~ glued together v.;th the
edges olLlet about Yo". see DeWI. Fig. 3. MOllNT S11Uf'S.To mount the outside strip" (C). apply glue to the strip and Crnme and put three C-elamp" loooeIy in position. see Fig. 3. Next. use the gauge to align the top (rounded edge) of the strip, see Fig. 3. Then tigh~n the clamps. TlUMENI)S.Aller the glue dries. remove the clamps and trim the ends otT the outside strips flush with lhe tol> and bottom.
AGUU,
@ OUTSIDE TRIM PIECE
-,
@ OUTSIDE TAIM PIECE
INSIDE!n·ltIl'S. Now the inside ships (D.
E) can be glued to the inside of the frame. This is done in two ~tel'" First. carefully cut the strips to fit the inside dimellljions or the fr.une with 45- miters on the ends. Next. apply glue to the strips and frame. and usc the spooer gauge to position the strips and clamp them in place. see Fig. 4. BACK. Aller the stJips are glued in place. the plywood back (L) is cut to size. Cut it to width to fit between the out.'1ide strips (C). Then cut it to length SOit's nush with the top .nd bottom edges of the frame. see Fig. 4. (Wait until law to attach it.)
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CUI
MIRROR MOLDING
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The mhTOI' is held in the frame with profiled mokling strips (F. G). 1 made these
moldinga on the router tabte fl'om a 2"-wjde piece of \O(.'·~hickstock, ReG Stell 1. Fig. 5. CUT PIIOFIJ.E, 'l'he proHle is cut with. Romnn ogee bit. Begin by practicing on a piece of \~"-thick scrap lind adjust the height Of the bit until the top and bottom shoulders are equal. see Step 2, Then rout 001/0edges of the 2"-wide blank, IU.P MOLDINGS.After routing the pro~, the ~"-\l;de molding strips are ripped oil the edllC'ti.see Step 3. CUTTO SIZE. To fit the moldings inside the frame. begin by mitering the end., of the side moIdinWO(F) so they fit tight between the top lind bottom of the Crnme, Then miw the ends of the top and bottom moldings (0) for a tight fit between the side
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@) INNER SIDE TRIM
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moldings.
TO AT
SPACK >'011 MmROR. \Vhen gluing the moldin".. in place, Lhey have to be positioned to allow for the thiclOlIl'lSof the mir-
ror. 'ro do t.his, I cut; several spacers the Same thickness as the mirror. (I used W' Masoni~for • I~',thickmirror). MOUN'rMOWINGS. Now. to mount, the mokUnWO.8rs until the glue grabbed (about • minute). then instalJed the next pieee of mokling. WQODSMITH
...... SPAaRJI(i;
@) TOP/BOnOM MOLDINGS
ROUTIR TAILE KNQ
_ ............ NOn,
so fU.MI ON
PlYWOOD IIAOC_V MOUlItOGS
II
H SHElf TOP
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NOTE:
CEHltI SHill Tot ON.eoftOM
ItIJ lit 1 'II" FhwoonSCREW
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'" WOOOSC:.EWS
+
CURVED SHEll When the I'rrune was completed. I add
'rwo LAYellS. The shelf is laminated with two piece.. : the Lop piece (H) with n bullnose edge and the bottom piece (I) with • Roman ~ l""fiIe. refer to Fig. 9. Both pieces are cut from 414 stoek 5W wide. Cut the Lop piece (H) 24' long and the bottom piece (I) 23' long, See Fig. 7. ARcs. AllA>r the workpieees are rut IA> me. eoncenuic arcs are struck on the front edges with an an: jig. To make the jig, join two pieces of stock in a "T' shape, see Fig. 7. Then draw a centerline down the stem of the "T'. The arcs are drawn using an ann made (rom a thin strip o( scrap with three holes in it, see Fig. 7. Drill a hole at one end for tho pivot point. At the other end drill two holell (or the pencil, one 19!1/ from tho l)ivOI; point, and the other 20" from tho p!"OL point. (Don't mount this ann. ye!.) AUGN JlC. AllA>rmaking the jig, draw n ~nterline • .,,_ both shelf pieces (H, I), centered on tho length. Thon align the centerline on the WI) piece (H) with the centerline on the jig. DRAW ARcs. To draw the an: on the top pieee (H), mark • point on the .. ui o( the workpiece 1"". down from the top edge, sec F~g.7. Now center the 20" l)Cl1CiIhole over this point, and drive n brad through the pivot hole at the top o( the swing arm. (Make sure the brad is centered on the reno terline on the jig.) Then strike an are along the fron~ edge of the workpiece. To bly out the are on the bottom piece (I). mark 0 POUlt on the end of the workpiece 1%" from the top edge. Then put the pencil in the 19~' hole and strike an arc using the same pivot position. Note: To make concentric lU"CSt it's im!,orLant to change the position of the pen, ciI. ,wI the "it"'! point. If you ehaoge the pivot point, the lines won't he oonc:enuic. CITr TO SHAPE. AllA>r sui king the arcs, cut the top and bottom shelf pieces to shape with. saber .. w or band saw und sand the edges smooth. ROUT EOOES.Next. rout a buJloose profile on the curved edge and the ends o( the shelf top piece (H). I did this with a \!o' round-over bit oct only 0/,.- high, see DeUtiI ill Fig. 8. For the shelf bottom piece (I), rout the curved edge and ends with a %z" Roman ~ bit, see Fig. 9. ATl'ACR SHllLVES. The ~helf top piece (Hl is attached to the bottom edge o( the Ieume with th1'Ctl No. 8 X l!lt Fh woodscrews, Drill 1)!lOtholes and then glue and screw this pieee to the frame, see Fig. 8. To moent the shelf bottom piece (n, center it on the shelf top piece (H) with the rear edges nu.~h. Then glue and clamp it in plaee,
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DETelL (SIDE VIEW,
C,NTt. $1191eonOM ON SHfIl' TOP AND......../ GlUt IN PlACE
AGUI'10
DETAIL NOTE:lEAVI Mel( EDGES OF aoJH CAP AND
TOP
V,' ROUNDOvtlt
TO' SQUARE
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12
ROUT'ACt! ANO INO _.,..
aour (NOS RItST
WOODSMITH
CAP MOLDING The frame is topped with a cap molding piece made trom two pieces of 414 stock. cur TO SIZE. ~n by cutting the top piece (K) 1'!1o" wide and II!!" longer than the width of the frame (22y."). 500 Fig. 10. Then cut the cap pieee (J) 2" wid. and I V" longer than the top piece (24' long). sour EDG£S- To complete the top pice. round over the front bottom e'dge I.nd the ends with a \1," round-<>ver bit, see Detail, Fig. 10. On the cap piece (J), rout the bottom tront edges and ends with a ~. Roman agee biL (I)on't rout the bad< edges of either piece.) FJ,STEN TO FIIAM£. After the ed!l'Jll are routed, fasten the top (K) to the top of the frame. Center the top piece on the top of the frame and glue and clamp it in place, see Fig. 11. After the top is glued in place, the cap (J) is glued and clamped to the top (K) SO the bad< edges are Rush. F1NI$H. Before mounting the mirror, I applied two coati! of satin varnish and let it dry thoroughly.
CMON TOI' ANO GLUt' IN fltACf WIT.. GAtl( lOOts 'Wsw
CfNTfR TOf' PtIC1 ON TOI" RAlt 0# "lAMS WfrH lACk EDGES A.USH wmt 0UT5IDl TIN
cgoss SIDJ9t! PIlOTfCllV'
PAPfR MlRROl 8ACKlNG
INSTALL MIAIIOR While the finish is drying, measure the inside dimensions or the rnune and cuta mirror \1," less in width and length than the opening. INSTALL MllUtOIl. To install the mirror, place th. frame race down on a table with the shelf overhanging the edge, lie. Pig. 12. Place the mirror in the frame and add a layer of brown paper to protect the retle
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, , , MAn RiAlS LIST
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Dimen.ions: S'h"d .24""" x 307/.'"
A 8
Frame Sides (2) 'YI •• l'h-27~ Frome Top/Btm (2) '0/, •• l'h - 21 '1'. Ouhld. Trim (2) '14. lVl.-27~ D I",.. Trim (2) v.. '¥..- 26 E InfMrT~Trim(2)t/":IlIV..-20 F ,,,,. $idIt MoIdi.nt (2) 'It .. 'h - 26 G TfIIPII'm Molding (2) ~)I ',I, - 20
Tools of the Trade EDGING TOOLS One of the easiest ways to dress up a project is to break the edges, That is, round over or chanUer the edges to give them • l!Ofter,more friendly feel, However, once you've deeided to break tbe edllcs, you're raced with a lot of choices tIS to how to I.lO about it. Most of the lime we use a router (on the rouW table) \\ith • round-over or chamfer bit. But while working on the projects shown in this isoue, we decided to test eut some band tools designed 81>ecifit1J]]y for these tasks, There's no doubt thnt it's ~"'ier to grab a hand tool and run it alongan edgethan it Is to take the time to set up a router to do the job. The perfect tool is a molding plane - if you want to explore the adventures or woodworking in the last century. ICnot, two relatively new hand tools are heing marketed as quick and easy solutions for the task of rounclingover an edge: 0 cornering tool and • Radi Plane. CORNERING TOOLS
Wh(u:s the easiest.. cheapest way to round over an edge! Well, take • bottle opener and transform it to round edg
14
Housed in openings in the brass plaIA! are two small t!U!cl cut-
ters, e3dl ground to the
__ sandpaper wrapped around a dowel) to sharpen the cutting edges. Bu~ does it work? Well ye. and nc, If you',,, not picky about the quality of an edge, it's a quick replacement for a router.
1!311>0
radius. The two cutters work in tandemo Adjust the front cutler (with an Allen wrench) to trim n slight round-over off the workpiece. Th• second cutter is ",,( to the full depth you want to produce the finished radius, The theory of double cutting makes sense, but I found the Radi Plane difficult to a
.. (1(.
RAni PLANE
At r.... t ¢ance. a Rodi Plane look; like a ninetccnth-century molding plane. Indeed, it's made on much the same principal. The selid maple body h:L
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