NO. 27
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$2.50
• I COMPLETE PLANS FOR: • PICNIC TABLE • PATIO CHAIRS • OUTDOOR BENCH PLUS. . . A SHOP TEST ON CARBIDE-TIP SAW BLADES
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Sawdust \80t'T T1II, i&'l £ I have a I>a\,'·blue sweater with 1 hole In one sleeve, It', thread-bare, and ~ng from old age. EdoIo< And I've been told it's lime to get rid o( DonaldB. P_ko "that old lhing" and buy a new one. DesIgn O!redO< But I like my old gw ca ter. I always feel Ted K,"~k warm in it - even though I know a new sweater would really be warmer. ",","tant EdItors So what's the point of all this talk about Steve Krohmer old swealers'! I thought thi. Wa::I a woodMlctlHl P. Scott working n13f.,."87.inp. G,aphoc ~ne
cut a lotof SencIy J. Baum 5.oIJKf __ .. eod and e'en thou"h 11'8 b<-gmning to w~ do" nibil, I (c-c! romfortable with it ChtlaWlloll_ and it aI"'I)'5 lhe JGb done. Y1ctcy RobIn..,n I wouldn't thmk of ~tt= a "" .. 0"" Jeckle Stroud Thall'. until l madelhe ml'tal", o(u,in" SIllrley _an one of Fre1ld'. new 1,t:1!S~1"Anti-grip" Pem Dlckoy blades. Ju.t on" CUI. that·, ali it took to completely alter my way o( looking at "'''' Computer OperatIOnS blade. anll "hilt I = and Ft\'ud. Then we added the ·Mr. Sawdust- blade. beeau..lish"'9 ~y All Rlghla Reserved. 1~'wd"'O'*'''9 And I "anted to kno" just how 1to<,,1 it "II!; SublCrlptlon.· Ono yoar (6 ossues) $10. Two In the middle of all this, Ted Kralicek yoar. (12"'u •• ) S18 Single copy price. 52.50 (our Pe.iWl I)ir('<:torl dedded we $hould (canada ond Foreign. add $2 pe< year.) Chlngo Of Add,... : Please be sure to IOOOOe gel A new table b3W. Thing> were getting a Iitlle cl'o\\'dcd in the shop - almost to the both your old end new edd,... lor change address lola" to, WOOdsmlth. 1912 Grand Avo .. poinl thAI we hod to •• hedule lime on the one table I18W we had. 0e5 Moines, low. 50309. Our npw ,,*w and the
May June, 1983
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by etltung lhmugh 1 1'''''''' o(,;crap oak. That'. "hen It hRppen.-d I didn't realize St.·\I· had I.ft the t rt'tId "Anu'gnp-blade on the """ ,\. I trimmed olTthc end rothe oak scrap, I noticed something was
dltrt·r~nl. The nil 1l effort· I"",s. Ilook ...lat th., r.....hly cut end. and to my surprise, it \\ltl"t,'t ~r"oolh ... it \"83 perf, -e t. The ,·nt! gram ("II like Jr(as.,. No lorn fih.'r •. :0;" tooth marks. JUSt a smooth. ,Imost burnished surface you couldn't II,' "bul touch • and beamazed. Itook the bl:id.. ofT the laW to >eo w hat it locked like 1110Gb a,._ me The teeLh ~hln<' Ilk. IIOm,thmg IIralght out of a lOOthJlL.1.101, Jlul.n all (aime
S!iv.,lu ...t 1.lntlj· is lInt' fir them.) But th, 1.,1111"' thu.· "'i"1t a good saw hI.d" cI.... makl ",hlto,n.'nce. If you expeer perf, -cuon, 1101'7'1an' hIa<1,,,, that will produ",'" 'Tho:'1l"'.Ju ta",:ou"rofbowmuch
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roone) It', \\Clrtil. I agn"t ~ th !"tt·\ t·~cc;.nc1u.....ions that olle 01 t .... best cIJoict. f"r the money is the Freud 6O-to"th combIMtlon blade (my old (a\'ont~). The D<''' .\nll·JmP blade is a (anto,,_llcblad Ollemore
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(aC(' to 110.JmIUpnl 11',,,,,1.,,,.1/,. Jelf Far· ri..hM jf.inf"C1 Ult 1I) (.'1N)nJlnate the ciraala· Uon efT(,rts thl" blJ"IJle~ foide of this.
bU>lnes•• Jeff '" from Ava (population
2.514), MllIkIIlri,"b~", be operated his own hard" ,... 1 lumber company. A! h~CUlll(" on buud here. our cirponoiblc (or k~inJt ali o(those num· be", under control. But be'~ off to a good start. He', alrt'ady a..",,11rt'd me that cir· culatlon "ill increase by one new sub••riber. JeIT and Marilyn are expecting lheir Ii..l child AUj(U>t4th. NEXTIILIII.tXI:. Th. next issue of Wood· tmlith (Number 28) .hould be in lhe mail during the week of July 25th.
WOODSMlTH
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T_ip-s & Technigu_e_s __
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STICKY STAVES
When it came time to "glue up" the staves used for the turned canisters (TI'oodsmilil No. 25). I came up with an easy way to keep everything under control. Ijust used tape (masking, fiberglass. or whatever) to secure all the individual pieces until they're glued together. The .fin;t step is to lay out all the staves ed~ to edge ..zith the outside r.ce upward.
The first step is to label the md. vidual drawer sides using a simple method that involves marking each drawer side with a lelter. The key to this marking system is to mark the letter near the bottom edge on the ot8id. face. "GUR',.A__
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!::t==~~o~c=~ =~\ ...-""'" BOTTOM EDGE
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'ENCE
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Next. I made two labels that are attached to the dovetail jig for identifying both the proper sides, and their locations for routing each or lhe four joints. Each label consists or two separate two-letter Then I applied two orthree rows of tape to combinations. Each set of letters is posithe outside race to hold the individual tioned with one letter over the other, staves together. Finally. the whole assem- representing the two sides needed to rorm bly is turned over and rolled into. cylinder each corner joint. The top letter represents the piece placed in the top oflbejig, 10 cheek the fit between the staves. II everything fits okay, the next step is and the bottom letter represents the piece placed in the front or the jig. 10 flatten the assembly out and brush glue Example: The dovetail formed between on the edges of each stave. Then the entire assembly is rolled up, and clamped with sides B and A is cut using the left side of the jig (two of the joints are cut wring tbe web clamps, IIthe fit between the staves needs ad- let\ side of the jig, and lhe remaining two justing, I don't apply glue to two of the joints use the right side of the jig). The joint.~ (cpposite each other). This produces label shows side B over side A, so piece B two half cylinders after the assembly has is inserted in lhe top of the jig, and piece A been clamped. \Vhen everything is dry, I ftGUI.£ • trim the two halves until they mate perfectly. Then finally, the two half cylinders are glued together. Pm:y F. Ha1!$e7I WalhaUa. N "rtll Dakota OIlGANIZED
DOVETAilS
Recently I constructed 8 few drawers (14 to be exact) using a dovetail fixture to rout halfblind dovetails on all four comers. This involved a total of56 individual joints, and about 10 million possible combinations. About the time I was half done. the problem started. All of a sudden Irealized that 1 have become confused about where to position the proper pieces for each joint. (Repetition doesn't sharpen my mind. it dulls it) So to eliminate the chance of mounting the pieces into the dovetail jig in the "TOng position, 1 came up with a ~imple labeling system for both the drawer sides, and the jig. WOODSMlTH
I've been using a cut offjig you showed in Woodsmitlt No. 25 for some time now, There is one change I've made that might interest your readers- (added a measuring tape. To incorporate the measuring tape into the cut off jig, I simply redesigned the fence into an "L" shape. This allows the ,{,' wide tape to be attached on the shoulder of
< INSIDf FAa!
APflY GlUt 10 JOINtS
MEASURED CUT OffS
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the fenee. Then finally, adjustable stop blocks are cut to fit the new fence. If the measuring tape is attached to the fence of the cut off jig accurately, you can save a lot of time normally used in measuring and marking.
L. A. S"yder
lVyoming. Michigan Editor's Note: Tlte ollly mail order ."ure. 'IH!'veb.", obit to local. for 1M8elf sticking counler tape« is Garrett Wade. 161 At: em'~oflhe Amertc(l$, Neu: York, NI'II! I'ork, 10013. Stock /I 3()N()1.Ol. S3.90
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is inserted in the front of the jig. Note: 1-':":':"';';'':':'''-''';';'''';';'''';';''''_':':''''''_-------1 SlND IN YOUR IDlAS Always keep the labeled face ofthe drawer sides facing out, away from the jig, and 1----------------1 the labeled edge against the guide pins in If yoo'd liketoshare a woodWOlldnglipwllh other readers of Woodsmlth, send your Ide. to: the jig. Woodsmlth, Tips & Techniques. 1912 Gland Using this system, [ can tell at a glance which two sides are joined together, and Ave.. Des MoI~. low. 50309. We pay a minimum of $10 for tips, and S15 or where to locate each individual piece. more lor special techniqUes (lIIat are accep,ed Even at\er 56 joints. tor publicatIOn). Please gille a oomple",,,,,piana' Sue Kortum lion your idea II a sicetch is needed, send It Custer. So"III Dakota along. we'lI draw a new one.
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3
Picnic Table LIGHT-WEIGHT, STURDY & STORES FLAT \Vhen J set out to build a picnic table, I had two thi,*, in mind. First, 1 bad visions of barbecued steaks, corn on the eob. potato salad, and cold watermelon - all nicely laid out on a picnic table in my back yard. B11Imy second thought was, "\Vhat am ( goingto do with the table when the gloomy weather of winter !'OIL, around and ( want to store it away?" To solve this "inter-time storage problem. ( needed a fairly light-weight table that could be moved without the use of a tow truck. AI$O to make moving it around and storing it easier, Iwanted to make the legs uf the Lable collapsible so it wouldn't take up much spaee. Before J even sat down at the drawing board. Irealized that this table is one oithe few projects I've designed for when it was,,'t going to be used. The method J tame up with to accomplish this goal was to use • hinged-leg arrangement that's nOI only easy to set up. but it's also quick and easy to tear down. The next problem Wl1!; to design the table top so the same style could be used on a set of chairs (page 8) and a bench (page 12) - creating. coordinated outdoor furniture set. To coordinate these three components, I used 3 simple const ruction technique that involves making frames out of H~"-~hiek redwood and then inserting "".-thick cedar slats, (These thinner slats also help to reduce the overall weight of the table top). THE TABLE TOP
The table top is constructed foUo\\'ingthe same basic theme of lhe entire outdoor furniture set: a redwood Crame with cedar slats. Only in the ease of the table top, the frame is modified sllghtly to accommodate IWOextra divider rails. see rig. 1. These extra rails serve two purpose s. First, they shorten the span of the cedar slats (thus providing additional support for the slats). And second. they provide a place for attaching the legs on th~ underside of the table. CLT 1'0 SIZE. All of the pieces for the table top are ripped tAl a standard width of 21'1'. J started with the six pieces for the frame. ripping them out of 2.6 redwood. see Cutting Diagram. 5HOI' NOTf:, Since 2)(6:; usually have rounded edges, Iripped these pieces to get two clean (square) edges. It should be
4
a half lap at both ends. and cross laps if' from each end. see Fig. 2. mils (A) -
easy, I thought. get t wo 2y,,'-\\~de pieces Out of a 2x6 (which is actually 5'1!:wide). But it didn't work that way on the material I was using because some of the
(:R()()'·.;S. Alter the joints were eat, I eut grooves on the edges of the two end rail. (B) and the two diviner (C) rails to house the slats. Here. r wanted to make sure the face of the slats would be flush \\;th the face of the frame members. Todo this, hold the face side ofone of the slats on the edge of one of the rails. and mark the position of the wld" .•ide of the slaton the edge of the rail. Then set up th('
boards were narrower than they were
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supposed to be. • \\'haL I wound up doing was ripping tl\. 2,,6:; down the center first. Then I set the fence for 211, and ripped oITas much of lhe outside (rounded) edge as I could. Finally, I cut the two long rails (A) to • length or64", and the end rails (B) and the divider rails (C) to a length of ll5y,,'.
to cut a 'Y!"
x 31",· groove so the edge of the groove is on the line .
bottom
A s shown in Figure 2. the two end rails (B) have groove. on the inside edge only. The two divider rails (e) have grooves on both edges. LAG SCREWS. To ,,(!-engthen each of the half laps I added lag screws at each joint. But before drilling for the lag screws, lin>t I dry -elamped all six members of the frame HALF LAPS AND GROOVES (clamping the lbng raiJs against the sheulders of the half laps on the end rails and Aft.cr all six pieces are cut to size, they're joined with half Is", to formthe frame. 1 divider rails). Then just to be sure. I eut the half laps on both end. oCthe divider double-cheeked the frame for square. raiJs (C) and the end rails (B) first. (All four Finally. I marked the center of each pieces are cut with the same setting on the joint and drilled v. eournerberes %' deep, • saw to make sure the shoulder-to-shoulder followed by '." pilot holes. (I found the easiest way to drill all these holes distance between the half laps is exactly was to use a drill mounted in a Portalign the same on these four pieees.) Next, I cut the jOints on the two long attachment, 1 "IOODSMITH
THE SLATS
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'While the frame is dry-clamped together . measure the distance between the grooves to determine the length to cut the slats. Then all of the slats are cut 2Y," "ide. and to length (to fit between the grooves). After cutting the slats to size, 1 CU~ rabbets on each cnn to leave a ~" x Yo" tongue to lit the grooves. see Fig. 3. And linally. to reduce the chance of splintering. [ also chamfered both top edges of each slat.
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BRACKET FOR LEGS
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Finally. a 5Upport bracket is mounted to the underside of the table, see Fig. 5. This bracket supports the slats at the center of the [able, and is also used to mount the hinged braces for the legs. Cut the bracket (D) to length so it overlaps the outside rails 1W on both ends, see Fig. 6. Then cut • half lap on each end so the shoulder. of the half lap lit tight against the inside edges of the long rails. AMr it's cut to length, drill pilot holes and apply glue to the half lap (but nOt on any part that touches the slats), and screw it in plate. S&CURESI....TS. Finally, I eounterbored pilot holes in the bracket, so each hole was centered on a slat (see ~lg.5) and secured the slats to the bracket with #8 - IY," woodscrews,
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ASSEMBLY
Now the table top i. ready to be assembled. Slide the slats into the grooves and apply adhesive to all the half laps. (I used resorcinol glue. It'~ waterproof and suitable for outdoor projects.) Then drive the lag screws home. \Vben the glue is drv, cut 8 IV." radius on the four corners ofthis frame with a sob>.. saw, and round over all edges with a 01.1' eorner-reund bit, see ~"'ig.4. ALIGN SL'\1S. Position the slats evenly across the width of tbe table, and drive a-penny finish nails through the center of each slat (from [he bottom side of the table).
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THE LEG ASSEMIILlES
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HEX HEAO IOU A,NDWA$Hfl
After the table top is built, the only thing • left to do is to add the legs. Initially, J designed this table with a trestle leg systern, But this style doesn't allow the legs to ecltapse for easy storage. Al\er a little more time at the drawing board, Icame up with a hinged leg system that's sturdy, yet can be disassembled for storage. And one of the nicest things about this system is that it only requires building two simple frames . . . using half laps, naturally. LEGM3SE"Ht.lES. Both leg frames consist of two legs (G), and two stretchers (H and I). The first step is to rip all of the pieces for the frame to 2~'wide. Then J cut the legs to a length of2S". and the tWO stretchers 3Oy;,·long. After all the pieces for the leg assemblies are cut to size, the next step is to cut half laps on both ends of lhe legs, and on both ends of the stretchers, see Fig. 7. Al this point. I cut two additional notches in tbe top stretchers (H) on both leg assemblies, These notches house the braces (J) so they lie flat against the table top (when the table is broken down for storage), refer to Fig. 1I. These notches are 2\l," wide, '1'," deep and are cut 7Y," from each end of the stretcher. The last step before assembly is to drill • two holes Cor the bolts used to attach the legs to the table top. These holes are 5" from esob end of the top stretcher, see Fig. 7. Ai:lSt:MBLY. Now the leg frames are ready for assembly. Dry-clamp the four pieces for each frame, and cheek the fit of the joints and the square of the frame. Then mark the center of each joinland drill ¥. eounterbores. '1'," deep. Follow these eounterbores with the W' pilot holes for the leg screws. Finally, apply glue to each joint and lag screw the leg frames together.
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JIOSmON OF ROSAN INSEJIT
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THE LEG FRAMES
On" of the tricks to this leg system is the / CENTEalfG I-...ME ON OIVlnu RAll
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DUE.tMINING
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AlIGN (OGt Of KNUCKlj WITH (HO 0; UACE
way it folds down for storage. To be effective. the legs have to be easy to remove. Yet. when the table is assembled, the leg frames have to be mounted so that they're sturdy. To accomplish both objeeti ves, I mounted the frames to the bottom of the table with rosan inserts and hex head bolts. SHOP).'OTE,Rosan inserts (also
•
•
threaded on the inside to accept a '1'''- hex head boll. And the hole needed to screw them in place should be Ye' in diameter. DRILl. HOLES. To mount the rosan inserts, the first step is to mark the position of two holes on the divider rail (C). These two holes must tine up with the two holes in the top stretcher of the leg frame. To mark their position, I put hex head bolts in the holes of the stretcher and centered the stretcher on the divider rail. When it's centered, I just gave the bolts a sharp tap to mark where the holes should be drilled. Drill Ye- holes at these points, and screw tbe 'Ya' rosan inserts in place. And finally. mount the legs with Vo' x 3" hex head bolts.
AGURf 11
SUPPORT BRACES
The leg frames are supported with two braces (J) going from the bottom stretcher of each frame to the center bracket, see Fig. 9. To get the final length of these braces, first mount the legs to the bottom of the table. Then measure from the inside comer of the stretcher to the inside corner of the bracket CD)and subtract y," from this measurement to allow room for the hinges. MOUI
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•
fOLDING
screw-eyes. FINISHING. Since food is likely to come in
contact with the surface of the table, a stain that's non-toxic when it's dry should be used. See page 14 for a ....view of the possible stains to use. \VOODSMlTH
0" DETAil OF HINGE
ON aNTER BRAOCfT
flOURt 12
{AilE TO,. fACt! OOWN
NOTCHES IN tOP
'TRfTCHt. fOLD INTO I.lACES LlN.IOU lfGS f-J:OM ROSAN IN5.tRlS
FOt.O DOWN
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THE lEGS
\Vben the braces are mounted, the table is ready to use. Then when you want to disassemble it for storage, toosen the hex head bolts (that hold the leg It-ames to the rosan insert on the bottom of the table). Then fold the leg frames down. moving the top stretcher toward the center of the table. II e\'erything is aligned properly. the support braces (J) should fold neatly in the notches in the bottom stretcher of the leg frames. To hold the leg It-ames in place during storage, I added small hooks and
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lIG fR.utI 'IN roLOfO IOSITION
MATERIALS For A B C 0 E F Fot
G H I J
the Tobie Top flame: long Roil. (2) End Roil. (2) Divid., !toil, (2) CAnter Brodt •• (1) Short Sioh (22) long SI." (III th. Let Ftom• .s.: I.g, (0) lop S..... e..... (2) Bottom Slt.'ch." (2) 8to~'"(4)
FOLD UP
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CUTTING DIAGRAM HDWOOD 1....· "
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7
Patio' Chairs SUf'v1MERTIMESITIIN' Building a chair for outdoor use (especially one that's built entirely of wood) has two essential requirements. First, it must adhere to the mailman's creed: resisting the
ra\'age~ of "mud. rain, sleet, hail, and snow." And second. it. can't. have an)' splinters. To meet the first requirement, the chair shown here is built with redwood and cedar. Both of these woods are weather resistant, However. they're also prone to splintering. So all edges are rounded ever and sanded smooth to prevent any hangups. As for the construction of this chair, it's designed to be built using only one basic woodworlring joint - a half lap (with the help of a few lag screws). Also. to make everything go a little easier, all of the pieces used to build this chair are cut to a standard width of 2~·. TOSTAJIT. To start things off, I ripped all of the redwood to a width of 211,,".(All pieces are CUI out of2x6 stock, as shown in the Cutting Diagram.) Then the 16 pieces for the side. seat, and back frames are CUt to length as shown in the Materials List (!tems A through G).
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THE SIDE FRAMES
Once "U orthe pieces were cut to width and length, I started to work on the two side frames. Both of these frames consist of two legs (A}. one arm (B). and one middle stretcher (C). JOISERY. ThefU'>ltstep is to cut a half lap on both ends of the arms and stretchers, and on the top end of each leg. Then bores are drilled. drill V.r-diameter pilot another half lap (which in this case is called holes for the lag screws. see Detail B. a eros. lap), is cut near the bottom of each Note: The fourth joint (where the arm meets the back leg) has a hole for It pivot leg. The only thing that sets this joint apart from all the others is that it's cut 3~· dowel that's used to attach the chair's from the bottom of each leg. rather than back. see Detail A. This hole is drilled later on (a!\.er the frame is llS... embled), nush with the ends, see Fig. J. sno I'SOT£:, Although 1started eenstrueGLCF. uP. Af\cr the three counterbcres tion with the two side frames, in actual and pilot holes are drilled, remove the bar practice it's best to cut all of the half laps clamps and round-over the bottom end of for all four frames at the same lime. This each leg with a ¥-" comer-round bit (on 8 router table). see Fig. 2. ensures consistency for all of the joints. COC:'>o'TERBOREFOR .... C SCREWS. After Now, glue is applied lo all four joints of cutting the half laps for the side frames, I both frames. (1 used resorcinol glue for this project. It'. waterproof and suitable for dry-clamped the frame members together with pipe clamps (clamping across the legs outdoor applications.) Then drive I' lag to hold them against the shoulders of the screws in lhree of the joints. The fourth arm and stretcher), Cheek all the joints to joint (for the pivot dowel) is held together make sure they fit properly. with a C-elamp until the glue dries. ROl'SO OVER. To soften tbe edges of the Then 1 used a drill mounted in 3 Portalign attachment to ccunterbore a "". hole. chair, cut a 10/,- radius on the top comers v,,' deep in the center of three joints: both of tbe frames (where the legs and arms joints on the stretcher lind the front joint meet). Then round-ever all of the edges on the ol,t.ide of the frame, see Fig. 3. (The on the arm. see Fig. I. After the counter-
8
inside edges. between the arm and the stretcher, remain square-edged.) 1'1\'01' OOI\'EL. Finally, a '1'. hole. IY. deep is drilled in the center of the fourth joint (where the arm meets the back leg.) Then glue a 2"-!ong pivot dowel into this hole. see Fig. 2. SEAT AND BACK FRAMES
After the side frames are completed, the other two frames are built (one frame forms the seal and the other one forms the back). Both of these frames consist of 3 redwood fmme with cedar slats. And ODe" again. nil pieces are 2\4' wide, THE FlUMES. To make both lhe seat (D and E) and back (F and G) frames, cut half laps on the ends of each piece, see Fig. 4. Then before the frames are assembled, CUt a¥'" x '1',' groove on the four 19"·long pieces (D and F) 10 house the slats. This groove must be positioned so the slats are flush with Ihe top face of the frame. To mark the correct position for the WOODS~nTH
•
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groove. place one of the cedar slats flush with the top race ofthe frame member. and mark the "rnI<'l'I"d_ of the slat on the edge of the I'rnme member. see Detail in Fig. ·1. Then cut the groove so the bottom of the groove is on this line. TKg SI.ATS. Afl.er the grooves are cut. the five c:e<10l'slats (L and M) for each frame can be cui to width and lenl(th. Once again, these slat. are 2~~ wide. To determine their length. dry-assemble the frames and measure the distance bel ween the bottoms ofthe groove. and cut them 10 this lenl(th. Next. rabbet both ends ofthesIHts,lea,'ing ". x 1',' tongues to lit the gJ'OOves. Also chamfer the tOP edges of each slat La reduce the chance of splintering. C(lL').'TERRORF. A~1) PI1.OT UOLES. After the slats are cut. dry-clamp the four frame members together and drill counterbores and pilot holes at the center of each joint for the lag screws. Then, before final assembly. two more v.." holes aloe needed on the back frame. These holes will accept the pivot dowels on the side frame. and are drilled """ deep and centered 011 the outside edges of the side pieces CCl. see Pig.. 1, ,ISS£lI8LI'. Now the frames can be assembled. Insert the slats in the grooves of the frame. al>ply glue to the half laps (no glue in the gt'OO"1lSor 011 the slats), anti screw the frames together. ''OSIT'OS SLATS. After the glue is dry. tap the slats into position so they're evenly spaced in the frame. Then nail them in place (from the back side) with 3-penny finish nails. COR~'En ROt''III. Pinally. the foul' corners of each Frame are eut ie a j.y, radius, and then the outside edges are rounded over with a''',,'' corner-round bit.
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The fi",t two hol~ arc used to join the c1eattoth"erossllnlclK'r, They're drilled
"" thecounlOrbol'e$ an> on theo.I~,d'f(U< or the clcal .....ee ~t(>p2 In f'ig, S. The nexl two holt,S an' u"",'11to join the cleat 10 the ""I.· frame, They're drilled with th. ceumerbores on the j"$id~far~ of th(· clem, H'" Sh'JI :1in t'ij!. 5. And Onally,Ih,' rt'mllining two holes are used 10mount tlu- ""aI,They're drilled on th.. bottom ,.111" of each cit-at, as shown in
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To add ,-ublllty(thall', to prevent raekinlll a ero.'>' ot,,·t the thickn<·" ofbulh cleats ta total of 3"). This should be a final length of 16". After CUlling the stretcher to final length, dry-clAmp It between the two clent.<'and m3kr 'Ute Ihetola!width oithi$ assembly i. exactly equal to the width of the seat thtme. And while you're at it, also check to ~," that lh,· width of the back frame i.equnl 10 th,' seat frame,
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6. However, end Jtr81n does not provide much bolding stt't'ngthfur the Ia!! screws, To ,trenllth,'n the holding power. drill • hole n<'ar,-a
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DOWELROl.t;" The cleats are mounted lDthe cruN<.trelcher by dri"inlllag screws into the end ItI'3in o(lhe s IJ'('tcher.see Fig,
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CROSS STRlTCHIR
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.s••t. m hole., are drilled in eathdeal, wh hoi""""""'1S ofa %" coun«·roo,... \\11h ~ ," "nO! hole drilled
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and to a rough lenJrth of Ih". Then miter both end, al 6", IlUIkin~sure the cuts are parallel to each other, see ~tcp 1 in Fig. 5. The fin.ll"ngth of eachcleat should be 17" I"",,",ured from long pomt to ,,},ort point "-"-'['IBL\HOII'
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To make the c1ral> for this support S)'S' tem, ril) l1AO J)it·c(>" or redwood 2~-wide
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THI ellATS
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At lhl' point the four buic fracM, for the chairare complele .s.,I, I added. 'flipport ') stem to p....md" a ..,lid ba.se for the seat frame, and also to UlCJ1'a.", the overall .tability of the chall'. The seat support consists of IWod~at' I H. "ith a cross stretcher U) between them, see Fig. 6.
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","w, have ""m the dowels. Then drive the Ing ",,"'W' into the holes (and dowels) to hold the assembly tosee Fig. II.
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MOUNT SUPPORT STSTEM
Now the ~eal .upporl lL"t«'mbly can be ~unted to the .idc frome s, Thi« MH·mbly I:; mounted at an anlt"le10 make Ih,' .blllr more comfortable. After a -It -1.11,"1 decided on an anJd~ of 6". Th", &nl(l. 111"1.'$ IIw f~linl( of .iltlOg 'in" lh,· chair rather than ju.1 "on" u, To mount th,· ,upporl 'y"tem. (ir>1 fo.. '.mark a line 11II,' do" n from Ih.' bottom edJ{O of the arm. Then lemporarily screw the eleat 1(0the fronl 1,1t'and alill'" the center .fthe counterhon' (on th.' hack oflhe cleat) with the marked lino. Poke an awl through tho eounterbo .....10 mark the position of the rilol h"le. Finally, drill \IJ' pilot hole, in the back 1"1:".
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MOUNT THI SEATFRAME
!lie.XI,the scat frRme i. mounted to Ih~ support ~ytltt!m.Posuion the seat framt~ "0 it hanll" 2~;' in fronl of Ihe from edge of the legs.• ee t'ij.'(.II. Clamp it In place and 11...., an awl to locate Ihe position of \I." pilol hole". Then remove the ...·.t i'nIm." drill the pilot holes, and linall~ l{lue anti lair the frame into posinon,
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CUTTING DIAGR_
Cut CAP TO fll
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MATERIALSLIST
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Although the thair I" •-en th~ 1"0 lerr ,t ... tet:: ers. This stretcher L.. cut to length 80It'~:r longer than the width of the ""at floamt>. Then rut I "·wiele,'Y'-dl'l:P rabbeu on <'arh end, see Fig, 9. AAer the rabh<>ts are eut. malw,ul\'th" distance between the ,bouldtl'S of tlw nthbets is exactly equal 10 tbe WIdth of th., seat frame. IThi •• hould b'OrnetyJ'l' of protective stain on this chair. A I'Cvie" of the possibililies is givcn on page 11.
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STRlTCHEIt AND CAPS
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bly can be glued and screwed III the .iele frames. NOTE: Wh~n you'rv rCddy tu drive the lag "ereW~ home, be sure to mount the chair', back frame in l)(l~ilion. Apply a coal of",,,, to the plvct dnw~l. and pop them into the hol~. in the back rn'm~,
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Garden Bench -------------------------------------SIDE BY SIDE SITIIN'
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E\'('r)o'c)n~ ha......8 favorite \\"8.:" to rvlax ~or m,· It', .,tungon a bench and "atchllllllif" 110by. Aft, r building thL' beneh, I l'ull.. 1 It 0\"" to 8 large walnu: tl'e>' .n my hack yard, And there. in the root .11....1<. I Jlat back en my bench. propped up m~ 1....1.anti watched the neil1'hOOrsmo" tb< or lawn>!. (l gIJ(':Ij! beneh e, j us t bring out my roman; c nature.) Aclu:t1I) Ih~- bench \\ a, d,·.ign.,!1 '" a companion piece to the picnic wbh, nnd chain. ill this !.."e. In fact. th~ cOII_lruolIe.nof th .. ""nch is almost id"II11eoll.. thl chaiN. The lirsl.tep i,10 rip all thl'III,'Ces to. tl
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THl SIOl flIAMIS
f'".,Il. rut the legs (A). arm, (Il). and ,tretrh.,... (e) 10 length. and cut hall lap! on each piec-e. (Refer to the dn""ng on 1"1)<.· 9.' Then dry-clamp lhe (ram,' memben. tOJ(l,th~rand mark the po~itinn... fth., lag serews on three ofthejoinl> (wh,·n'th • •t.rctch.·, overlap the legs and \\ h,'I'\' thl' front leg meets the arm.) !\ext. drill 'Y,··diame,er eounu-rborc .. IV.'IIee " at each joint. and foil"" \\ Itb ~. 1'1101holes drilled all the \\ay IhrouKh l'lI('h eount.rbore. (I used a drill mounl",1 to a Ponalign atl.lChmenllO drill th........ ,1.,,) Everythllll( up 10 110\\ """ been the "'m~ procedure 3!'1 on the chaiN. How ever, ther"', a change for the rounhjoinl (\\ here the arm meets the back leg). Instead of drilUng a hole fOI' Q ,ingll' pivoting dow el, I anchored tho back f".me to the .ide frames with two dowels. However, I waited to drill these hole until ofirr the back frame was assembh-d. \!o..'E"BL\·. For now. go ahead and glu., and bw >'0'1!\\ the side fram<... t"gt'lh.r. Atu-r they're rut a I y." radius on tbe top come,.. (where th~arms ml'('l the logo). and round over thl' ool$i,I,' ,'()~...~ of th~ frame with a %. <'()rn~r,,,,ulld bit.
a-,...,mhIed.
THI SlAT ANO 8ACK fltAMlS
The baoie construction of the frames for th.... al and back is idenLicallo ,h ..,(· on th., chair. The only difference i. the Il'ngth l\\O members on each rrnme. The .cat fro.m~ eonsb" of two long pi~ (01. and two ,ide pieces (E). ""',
or
FIIl.I. Theba<-kf",1II~hast\\olong",_, (t·) annlwo .lde pi_" (G).
AI\~r the four piece:, for each frame ...., CUItu I~n,.,h, tilt half lap-" at the end. of ~aeh pIece. Then tilt "'. x 'I\. groo"c, in the 10nKpi~'I:eS.(Once again, liS. a pi('W of ~crap ccdllr to mark the pollllion of the
bottom oillus 1(1'0(1\ .., on Ih. Inside edge lor the long frame mt'ml~'T> ) THESl..\TS Th~I'\'llre Ih ~lal. It and lit on each frame. and eacb .I¥I i, 2~" wide. To determine the final ~'ngth of the slats, dry-assemble the fnun,·s ",,ulde,.,.of the rabbet> on the slats .hould I '''Iual10 the dk~
lk>forethe back fran ... ran be ...... "'mbled. r worked on the mounttnj( .~.. tem t"join tbe hack frame to Ih. ,"le fnunl~. Here. in· Head of drilling a ,ingh: bole for a pivoting dowel ("" wa:; don,' On the chair). 1 an· chored the back framl' 10 lh•• ide frames
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t .... d..\\el-. TIll>mean, Ihe back wID be a\ a otl angle (:t won't pivot], and th"" It f •
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linl., sturdier.
11('I.f:~I' ~IOEFR.\'1£. To do that
the lirsl >lep is to drill two~" hull" an the ,ide fram~s, Th. first hole b ""nler.~1 an thv joint wht're the ann meets the t.1nIh "ide frames. H()l.t_,., "'Ch. FR_\\lE. Then, two matching ~ hoi .... mu..1 be ,trilled on tb~ ,icl"I' ccn I\.: I of the back frame The fll'!lt hoi., i$ «·nt,·.-...l on the length of lh •• ide pi'~~, see FiJZ:.a. To locat~ th., ';Cl"(lntl hoI•• mt-aKun' du\\ n 2¥t" (y:hieh is the !lam~ dilitun4.'C ;,t.l'i h'et"'een the centt"f'2' r.f the holb on th•• ide frame). Mark (hi. IIi... UlliN' nown from the firsl hole, and drillthc ....,.nn hoI,·. ...... 'f. \1111.\. The wt step i, to )1lu. 14· do"·..l,,, "to th..• hol~ in the side frame. e<"t: ~'Ij:. 8. n.cn the back frame can be .......m· bled. (Just foUowth. """'" "J"OC.'('dure m.'n· tioJll'd .00". for the seat Iramt>.)
d,""
SlAT SUPPOl'
SYSTIM
The .eal ~uppon sY.lem for tbi. bonch i. similar to Ihe one for the chair. but due (0 th~ .,111< It'ngth of the bench (and tbe
\VOOOSM1TH
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potential for greater racking pressure), I put two stretchers between the cleats (inswad of just one as on the chair), rue CLEATS. Once again cut the two cleats (Hl to a rough length ofl8'" and miter both encl. at 60• Then drill the six counterbores and pilotholes in the cleats (as-shown in fig. ;, on page 10). TilE Sl'Rf;T('II!:RS, After the cleats ate C\lt and drilled. mark off the length of the support siretehers (1) t«> the total "idth or the support assembly is equal to the width of the bench seat. AI.o drill the 0/." holes at each end of the stretchers for the V'dowels, Then the cleats are lag screwed to the stretehe rs the same way as was done on the chair, see Fig. ~.
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A[)O SEAT FRI\~1t:.
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Position the
When I was ready to mount lite seat
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frame, 1 made one minor addition. To keep this rather long frame from sagging in the middle. I glued an extra slat to the underside of the middle $18ton tbe frame. This extra slat rests on the t we support stretchers and holds the seat up. ~""lRTCHER ANI) CAl'S. FilUllly, 1 added the bottom stretcher (.))that goes between the stretchers on the side frames. It's cut 2" longer than the length of the sear. and the ends are rabbeted with I"-wide. :y.'-deep rabbets. As on the chair, I also added -thick caps (K) over the cleats,
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CUTTING DIAGItANI
MATERIALS LIST
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GLU£2 -.l0N?1_ ~., DOWflIN'" HOltS tN SIDE FRAME
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frame on the support cleats so the front edge is2~'in front of the legs. Poke an awl through the counierbores on the bottom of the cleat to mark the position of the pilot holes.
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THE fiNAL STEPS
Now it's beginning to look like. bench, All that remains is to add the seat frame and a bottom stretcher.
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fINAL ASSEMIl Y
To begin lhe final assembly of this bench, the support assembly Is mounted to the "ide frame, al a S" angte, To mount this assembly, first locate the position of lhe pilot hole on tbe front leg. 9-Y,· down from the boucm of the arm and in from the ill*ide edge of the leg. To locate the pilot hole on the back leg. mark a line UV." down from the bottom edge of th. arm, Then temporarily screw the cleat to tho front leg and align the center of the eounterbore (on the back rhe eleat) with the line on the back leg. Poke the point of an awl through the counterbore 10 mark the position or the pilot hole. ~'inruly. drill the 'ho" pilot holes on the back legs. When you'r e r eady to mount the support, assembly to the side frames. be sure to mount the back rrsme on lhe dowels. This time. apply glue to the dowels tl) fasren them into the holes in the back frame. At the same time. j!'I\,c and screw the support assembly to the side frame •.
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Sid. Frome Let' (4' Sid. 'ro",. Alms(2) Sid. From. St,.r,hen (2) Soo. Frome Top(8tm (2) s.ol Ft'Ot'MSide. (2) Back fftomo Top/8'm (2) Bock Frcm. Side, (2) Support Clea.s. (2) support Stte't,h.t (2) Sottom Sr,.tch., (1) Cloro' Cop' (21 SIOl' (18) Bade Slo.. (18)
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1111::1 2'h .. 27 1\10• 2\10- 19 1Y, II 2'h- - 19
1~ x 2V. • 54.1/. "hx2'h·l11h IV, :I 2'h .. 54% 1'h :II 2Yt • 12 l'!.tx2'/j.l1 l'lt x 2th - 51¥.. 1 Y, x 2Y:t - 56Y..
v. It 2~
- l"V,
V.... 2'h" 13V. ¥. JC 2'h .. 70/.
I c...
REOWOOO 11,.•• 5'..,. _ 96
4
I""! ' L 1 + ~ _'= -~ 1 ., -8 ~
'r EJ
.-.
EEDWOOO
'1,,·
:It
r
..@iJ
S~- ..60
_,:;t@
t:Jr..;.l 'r. 1b~J ClOAJt'r••
S'II· .11"
ri-+..l.Ll t L.
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l..-t=! ~ Et.r;~
[: Ell: IJI~Itrn.I}J]J 13
Outdoor Finishes
•
FIGHT BACK AGAINST MOTHER NATURE The outdoor furniture in this issue got me lO thinking about the irony trees - they spend their entire lives outdoors. planted in the dirt, and under constant. attack from the weather and all sorts of bugs. As long as the tree is alive it manages - for the most part - to f.nd off "II comers. But the minute you turn 8 tree into lumber, Mother Nature's protection disappe
or
•
There are several other woods with natural resistance to decay. The U.S. Department of Agriculture'S Ferest Products Laboratory classifies Bald Cypress (old growth). Black Cherry, Black Walnut, several kinds of Oaks, Chestnut. Pacific Yew. and Catalpa as "rcsi$tant" or "'very resistant. ., When it came time to select the wood to U$C for the outdoor projects in this issue. it was pretty easy \.0 narrow my choice to Cedar and Redwood because of their general availability and their natural resistance. But Cedar and Redwood have another thing going for them: dimensional stabliLy - their tendency not to shrink, warp, or cup. There is one other kind of wood to think about: pressure treated wood. Pressure treatment involves saturating wood (of a variety of species) with water-borne salts (CCA - chremated copper arsenate. for instance) applied under extremely high pressure. (\Volm~nized is one brand name.) This pressure treatment is effeetive, long lasting, and the protection is about as good as anythinlt Mother Nature could have come up with. Some woods claim to be pressure treated, but are really ollly stained to look that way. It'sbest tceheckfcr tbe etamp of the American \Vood Preservers Bureau (A\VPB). Their stamp assures that tbe wood really has been pressure treated (and not just surface applied). There's also another drawback to using pressure treated woods - the treatment leaves the wood with an unsightly greenish
14
or brownish cast. but ["U deal with that later. In spite of the advantages ofusinlt pressure treated wood, I still like the idea of traditional Redwood or Cedar for outdoor projects, and since combining the two woods creates a nice visual effert- r decided to use them both. FOOLING MOTHER NATURE
Ir I lived in a place where the SWI never shone and it was dry and there were no insects, I wouldn't have had to think any more about. proteeting my outdoor furniture. However, most of us don't (thank goodness) live in places like that so we're faced with the task of fooling Mother Nature. Because the sun fades all woods (including those with natural resistance to weather) I wanted to add some color back to the wood - which meant using a stain. Then I wanted to keep the water away (rom the wood - that called for a water repellent. To preserve the wood. a preservative: and finally a mildewcide to arrest the growth of milde -«. I found out that the oil-based semitransparent or solid stains sold today come with or without additional preservative s, fungicides and water repellents. Note: Avoid the really heavy-duty preservative compounds which contain Pentacltlorophtlwl which is highly toxic. 1I1any
outdoor finishing products contain other chemicals that work just as well and are much safer for use around plants, animals and people. One other tip: when applying these preservativesrstains. be sure to follow the manufacturers specific instructions for preparation, application. coverage, and safety. STAINS. All wood discolors (turns grey or black) when exposed to the double whammy of the sun's ultraviolet l'a)!:; and water (which leaches the color produdng exiraetives frem the wood). Some people like this natural look. and there nrc even some wood preservative/stains designed to speed up this "aging" process. But to defeat the elements and retain the look offresh cut Redwood or Cedar, it's neeessary to add color to the wood \lith a
•
stain.
Semi-transparent stains contain fe\\'er pigments and come closest to approximating the natural look of freshly cut wood. Solid stains, on the other hand, contain a higher concemration of pigment which can rub off on clothing. shocs- and you. Solid stain. are not recommended for outdoor furniture or decks. WATERREPELLESCY: The oil base of preservatlverstains aCI$ as a water repellent, but some manufacturers add parafin wax as additional protection from water. INS!l(."'l'PROTECTION: The extractives in WOODSMITII
•
lhat'~ mlly need.. 1because of the durabllIt); of the \\ OO(J~, S(·rni*lra.Jl:.parenl stains that f,'('<1on '''''MI, (r~"u~ treated ,,00.1 "ork "ell on treall'tureout, will make so the m.'rkln),... are hidden. .tain.-d wood an unUkely and inhospitable 'I'hen you get around to appl)ing the finl.h. mak,· .u",· the wood i.. a. dry ..s home (or in....ects, In an)' case. termites and other In,,'. fcor 1tl. SO Ihe "ood .. ;0 aeeepl tbe lini.odl lin.~ oil 'talllll "e'" more complicaled 10 bt'tter. mix ""rore u.. ng. The in.!trllctio,," call for TIwre·. hili,· chane<' that the relathoelyafT""t lh" ""lor of the wood. .Voll'; \\'ith pre"ure treated wood, if. CleaT \Vood Prc.ervallve. and the Cu· l"'ll<",i"l), imllOrlant to let it weather for a prinol Scmi·tran'pal·ent stain 'preservawhile bt'fore applyinl( a 'lain (which is aU tlves were IC.A complicated to mL~, Redwood and cro..r provide natural pro-
•
teeuon ~lntlnst l4:rmllf'S and other irL-..ecL....
n,..
Th...,.,·
•
I
I
l
""1'(;
•
-------
\VOODSMITH
VRl:..~l-R.~YR.;\T.:I.,
~one
or the stains
we triedw ould adequately cover the markinp which up on pre-sure treated .. ood, bUI th.y· .... m,t de"gne
.110"
the .hop "a' "frc-h- and hadn't been "w rath.r,'
plying stain. ('Lt:AN·lfl' 'l'h~ ('uprinol Semi-transparent ~ulin. even though the),'rt! oilbased - ar'(~\\·ul",r clean-up, and that's a definlt. plu •• AI'f'P-AItA "fE. In our I"'U<, both the Cu. prinol Serni-tran parent ~tain and Preser'ali, e and the Olympic Weather Screen (both of th.·!ICproducts (kind of like p:,int ." RIch",. only on wood) of difft'rent stain. applied to different wood, The", '" Btehl'" didn't produce an exact match ,,"h th., lini.bed pl'Uduct, bot they .. ere p""IIY rl....... \\',nR R&I'£I.1.t'(·\. The differen
The
1)rt"Stn'atl\'(!
1lt.aIl\..toI \~;(' u!\.Cd are
gen-
erally a\'allabl~ throujlhQut therountry. In the ca..-e o(Olymplc .tain:<, (Olympic Stain, Belk,'U,·. \\'A 9IlI.1Olithequickest way to Iotat .. a d<-al, r is b., Iookinjt in the Yellow Page. under Pamt . Cuprlnol pl'Udu.to lThe Dan
15
Tools of the Trade
•
A REVIEW OF CARBIDE-TIPPED SAW BLADES I ean still remember th,' day I purchased my Ii""t table saw (a
p"rlnr the "eel (alternate healinll and cooling), The care taken in thill procedure can milk. the diffel'('!IC('between a hi~'" (jU8Iit~·sa w blade, or just • round piece of steel. 011 high('r quality blades. the plot,· I. ofu-n tempered twice to
dream come tNC). 1 was so excited I could hardly stand it, After making a cut on the closest pil'C(' of wood, I examinl'd the·PI(":('~xl"'f.'tinl':to find ti" perfect t'rlll", SII,' WIUI I surprl~f Tht- f'ini:-.h was t"oO poor I .. ould have l.... ,1 better orr U'ln~a h.nd "'"" I double eheeked .\"'1')' I""" 'Ible &ilJUlitmenl on the table saw, only to di!ro\'cr that the culprit "115 the blade, 001 the ,.... So I d.'cidcd til 'U'l'tch m) aJnoad) taxed bu00 sa .. hi",Ie, Aftt'r II"tl~nln)( t~)a sales pitch on tht· '"lrtUl·S of u~int:t tarbid("tipp",1 blad es , I de'Critk"fJ til the 681c:..person the typ" ofcutttnlli wOlildI.w doing n10~1often ." I'd be .ure (0 get the rillht hl"tie. "1'(0 problem." he Mid. "h"re', the SIlW blade for vou." "y"" bob, !hilt sur,' 100"" like niet' hlade." I Ihou~ht. So much for I,M.k., I found out (100 late) that the hlade "11.< dC"lm (."Onlact~I)m{' 11""rt'~ionals: (~arl0\'endiuo. f:,,",,utiH' Vice Pm-idenl of Freud. O"h Pimllll' of Fnrrc"t.M3nufacluring Co, Iboth carbide-tipPNI •• w blade manufacturel.,.). I'llul Naylor. Preoident of Keo Sa.. (II ,,!"Of ...-Ional ,harpenin!?; sef\1ee). and t\\'o m"18lurltl"(.o T figured if anyone roulrl ("II m(' hOI< 10 both determine the quality of a 'R" hl.d~. 311d how to choose one, tht ('c)ulcl.
a
'1"'('
O).
WHYCA."Of.npPfO?
:;... bl.d~s taU Into t .. 0 general cal· e(ori,~, .Itween the two i8 that carbide-tipped blad.. ha.,· .mall p,ece> of luogblen carbide bl'llU'Clto the 'teel botly to form the cutting crill"', The err...,t thi, has on per-
(orma.rtee i~ (Jratn3tic. RV-T"'I)\(; \" t:.)(;I: Retaining an edge
longer than a ste.1 blade (usuaUy al least 10 timeR long,'r) I. one of the biggest ad
16
-
achieve
.3ntal(e, (If II carbide-ripped blade, That abilit)· ,,·sult. from tho extreme hardness of!h~ tunjlSten carbide. Qt urn ,n nu, err The I!uality of cut produced hy R.,'" blade relates dirl'etJy to the fharp.r.u ..f the til" This L< where carbide-t,pped Mad""
Okay. '. carbid,,,ul'J'('d blade. outshine .t",,1 h!;.ul"" In every lIt thinj1 ~'ou'n: f"",,1 .. Ith .' d.t~rmining the jlCneral quality (of th. blade _ , , while it'. .itting on • otore &hdf. Althouj1h many of the qURlity controls taken during the manufacturinj! proceo, can't be seen. luckily lh~1'('ar,· 8 f." teU-tale sij!llSthat indieate the level of workman,hip. Tin; PL.\T~. \\'hen a !IIIWblade is born, it statU out as " .''''lIlAr piece of very soft st •• 1. 1'hi. "teel plate i.hanlened by tem-
I
It
hardness ranging
from C 12to C-16 on the Rock",'11 C hardness seale. On lower qualit) blade s, the plate ;, Mlmcllm(,5 made with coldrolll'd ",oclthat', not tempered to the Correct hardness. or Ml temp.........tat all, Th~ qualit) ot lhe tempering pr""~",, can not be detected Ju,t by looking at a blade. However. there i~a \\"a~'to mUKhly determine the quality ,If th" H«'I u. to re-iet an) att~ml}t at b< ndinlt. PL.,TE TnLt.II' '( I' The plate telen..nee. or the "runom" (Ofthe , on the murket that ha,e ,,18t,· tol
•
•
\'el')' quu•.'t
To d.t~nrunc a bbW,:, plat .. tolerance, Ch('('Kthe promotl()na1 literature on the blade. U,uall,. J the bhde J.; manufactun.-d 11-' • hll:h qwwt) product. :he com,"n~ \\ll1touL i\J! dcmllllding tolcntIlCe$, \1\\I\tl't Rt.c,_"C)\I\I1:'OEU ttl"'t~The
ma..\_lmumRI'~ ralnlle lS tn'portant because it delin'" th" 1II".'\Jmum'P<'<'d at ",hich each blade •• n be operated ""fely. without .uccumbing to th~ ('('ntrifugal forces that are created within th" >pinning blade,
WOODSMITH
•
•
•
To g~t a pteture of the amount of de>truc:t" e foree on a blade, ,;,;uaJize the outer rim on a ICY blade traveling appro'"nat(·I~ 100 )II'" •• , in • 10 c:irde. Then Imajl1ne mtroducinj!: this spinninlr steel blade to " pteee of hard maple - it's really fUl"»rulng that it doesn't fly apart immedIately. Moot blades have the maximum NfM rating stamped on the plate, or listed in the product ht.fllture· thaI com.. with the blade. On hij(h~f (lUshly blades. the maximum Mltin~ will be 7000 RP~I. or even hil!her. And on a lower quality blade, this rating can 11<' rl.' Inw ... 3-1000 RPM-which is bela" lhe .",,,od of some 10' table saw s. LXPA'SIO'< SI.UTb. Mo.t blades have "expansion .Iots" cut in the body of the blade. runninll !'rom th,· rim IOwan! th~ arbor hoh The purpose of the expansion No", '" to ¢'" the blade some -room" to expend .,. 11""01.' up durinj!: 11"". A blade with no .'pan'lOn .Iots is more susceptible to .. arpin!: .. It heats up, A-, a general rete, the more e\pan ...ion slots (8 t;lo~IJ'(' about the maximum on a 10" blade), lhe hijlhcr the quality of the blade. Ctt,u:nt The main pUTpOWof agullet is 10 provid(' elearaneo for the chips being removed. Even though their purpose is simple, everyone seems to have their O\\1'Jl opinion on what shape to use, The only gullets that should be avoided 81"(> on(_'!oiiwit h :"h8J1>. or square comers. These sharp POlO'" can actually cause the blade to crack I:-;"'eTalking Shop. lI"ood~t~tltltxe. 2fi). b)' concentraring stress at a ","gil' pomt. And on top of tbat. they also inhibit (hIp, from being projected €rom the bu.rl,·. which causes tbe blade to clof! ea.lly. nil: n 'C;'TI;' r 'ROIDE,And finallywe gel to the "hole point of the saw blade - the carbide lip.'. There are more than 30 different grade, of lun{1;l!tencarbide used to make CUlling tips for saw blades, each grad., with iu; own characteristics. Trying 10 determlno the quality differences bel ween the different grades is really more oflljob for a meialurgist, than for a woodworker The most apparent different"e between th. carbide tip> Oil clifferent saw blades is their .i%(', Th(' .iuo of the carbide tip can range f"'om ~. toll.' long. and V,." to about ~·Ih,ck. Larger lips simply e.~end the life or. blade by extending the number of s~nml!' that can be performed befon> the til'<' w,'u out. 8IU.z"GTHI.l'\KHIULTI,.". The process of bruing (hif(h temperature soldering) the tipo 10 the otl'l'l is one of the more mtiea! .. m the construction of. rarbide.tip""d blade. Two methods are commonly u.'Ied to braze tungsten carbide to -teel: machine induction brazing, and hllnd brazing "ith an acetylene torch. Thcno's a queRtiollllaboul which method
,,,,"l"l.
•
usxn
can produce du...to Inco....... nt heating .
MA(.'II''': .IRAJ:I'('. Con ..i"ttnl joint with--
I·O\fI>i£. Grin
fL"E Shinny. mirror-like fini.
produce. the be"l bond between the earbide lip and th(' blade. The answer seems to de""nd on who you're talkinj( to. So I contacted an (iml'Qrtlal) engineer special. izing in Ilwtalw'l!:I', and Coundthat either method can produce a very secure bond, if done pro""rly. Evidently, th~ bil!gest danger i~ in overheating lho blade and de.;tro~ingthe temper. O\,erhcaunl! can also cause gas po,...,.. or pin holes in the brazing eompound, U.ually tbe,~ pores art! only on the "ery ,"rfllCt' of th.· alloy. but oeb"nd. Saturally,temperalUn> can be mono aeeurately controlled "ith automarie rnachinery than with a hand ton:h. This is supported by Ihe ract tbat lhe only pinhole~ we found WI''''' on a blac1. which was b.,..U'd by hand. But as long as the tips don'~ actually falloff, the br8Zing is doing its job.
T11£TOOTIIGRI'
DR.UH'. Hand brazing
pin "'...
out pinhol, .. du, to total heat controL
bide tip. are ground is another way to cheek ovrrnll qualily of a carbide-tipped saw blade, To achieve the highest level of quality, lhe tiPS6houid be ground with two different grad.R of diamond wheels (dia· mond. are about the only material that can be used to grind tun ..rsten carbide). The 1il">1. or rou¢>ing~uI pass is made with a COlIne (I)'I)·griO diamond wheel, Then a M-rond p""" i. made using a fin. ;"hin~(ItJO.gnt or finer) diamond wheel, To determine whether or DOta blade bas been lini.h ground, check the top. face. and .idt ... of th(, c-..rbide lips for a shiny, mirror-like smeothn ess, IV.ing a small hand lell> can be • hig help in .ceing the diffenonee,) If the lIPO .ho" any sign., of grinding marluo, it m.ans the manufacturer hasn't takenthelimelou.
----~----------------~--------------------
\VOODSMITli
17
beveled to one side of the blade or the other. so each tooth cuts only o,~ side of Beyond the quality of the saw blade. you11 the kerf. Using the ATB profile, each tooth is also need a blade specifically designed to achieve the highest quality results for the removing only very smaU chips. This is type of cutting being performed. To why an ATB profile produces such a high achieve the highest qUAlity results while quality finish, and why it's the most common profile for circular saw blades. ATB is ripping, you need a blade that's designed specifiealJy for ripping. Crosscutting is the found on rip. crosscut, and combination same - only 3 true crosscut blade can blades. and is also common on finish blades produce the highest quality results. In that use high numbers of teeth to produce other words, there's no such thing lIS a an extremely high quality finish. One drawback to this design is that it universal saw blade Cor making the perfect fonns an inverted V. when cutting grooves cut every time on everything. Finding a saw blade that's designed to and dados (a nat top profile produces a flat bottom). The very tip of the cutting edge match the type of cutting you do most.etten is probably the most important part of on an ATB profile dulls quicker than most choosing a blade. The first step is to know other blades because this is the area that how the different variables are used to does most of the cutting. TRIPLE CHIP. A triple chip tooth config· fine-tune carbide-tipped blades to perform urstion uses two different tooth profiles, different cutting actions. The most common variables are: in.. one for the "chipper" tooth, and another dividual tooth configurations. number of for the raker tooth. The chipper tooth looks Ukea tooth ground to a nat top profile teeth, and the hook angle of each tooth. Understanding the way these three fae- with both outside corners chamfered off. tors work together de-mystifies the type of The purpose of the chipper tooth is to cutling a blade is designed for. and what "score" the material in the center and along both edges of the kerf. Then the flat you can expect of it. top raker tooth follows through and deans TOOTH CONfiGURATIONS everything up. This tooth configuration is normally Choosing the correct tooth configurstion is important because it's what determines used on saw blades designed for very high how. and how well the teeth actually, ... quality finish, and are used to cut lamimove material. The tooth configura lion is nated counter tops, particle board. plastic nothing more than a profile ground on the laminates, CO~IBlliATIOI'. Finally. there's a comlOP surface of the carbide tips. The other two surfaces (the sides and the face) of bination tooth configuration that's really each carbide tip are usually kept flat. 0" nothing more than a hybrid of the alternate top bevel profile, and the nat top protile. slightly tapered. There are four common profiles used in It's usually used on blades that are degrinding the tips of circular saw blade signed to both rip. and crosscut hardwoods teeth: flat top, alternate top bevel (ATB), and plywoods. Nonnally the teeth on a eomblnation triple chip. and a combination profile. Each of these profiles has its own personality. blade are grouped together in sections of including - pardon the pun - some good five teeth - four are ATB. followed by a flat top raker tooth to speed up removal of and bad points. the material during ripping operations. FLAT TOP. On a flat top tooth configura[ion. the top of each individual tooth is The combination of both profiles helps ground square, perpendicular to the sides keep the blade from becoming clogged with chips, yet keeps the high quality of of the blade. This style ofgrinding offers two distinct finish. Another aspect of the combination blade advantages. First. it provides the most that helps keep the rate of feed fairly high support for the cutting edge of the tooth. since the entire width of the tip is being for ripping is the large gullets in front of used. Secood, the cutting edge will last Ihe raker tooth. This gullet JUSthelps e1ear longer because the teeth wear out evenly out the chips a little quicker. along the entire width, not just on one TOTAL NUMBER OF TEETH point. The most common drawback to using a The total number of teeth can be the one saw blade with a nat tOPprofile is the finish variable tbat has the most noticeable effect it produces. The blade takes bites out of on the cutting action of a carbide-tipped the board that are as wide as the entire saw blade. As the number of teeth on a saw blade width of the kerf. Because the chips being removed are large, they have a tendency increases, the distance between teeth is decreased. 'rbi. reduces Lhe sise of the to tear out. leaving a rough surface. guUetsofthe blade and makes chip ejection •.u.T£RNATE TOP BE\'l:L. The alternate top bevel (ATB) profile is almost self ex- from the kerf more difficult. A blade with a planatory: the tops of alternating teeth are higb number of teeth also requires more CHOOSING A BLADE
18
FLAT TOP
This style of tooth uses ol)iy one grinding profile - flat across the top. and produces a Ilat bottomed kerf.
ALTERNATE TOP S£VU
This prome produces a fine finish (and It kerf in the shape or a Vl. and can be used on any . style of blade.
TRIPLE CHIP
The triple chip profile ineorporates two styles of teeth, a beveled chipper, and a Oat topped raker tooth.
-
COMBINATION
This multipurpose grind com-
bine. the flat top. and the ATB profiles for ripping and crosscu\tin~ hardwoods.
\VOODSMITH
power to operate, more feed pre ssure, and • slower rate of feed, linder ideal .. tuauons, only three teeth should be cutting at one time, One should be le."ln, the pieee, one cutting in the tenter. and one jWlt entering the piece, To mainwn thil< optimum cutting situation. the total number of teeth should decrease as the thickne ... of the material increases.
OUUIT.
HOOK ANGUS
The hook angle on each tooth is another key faclor in determining the characteristies of a saw blade, The hook angle is nothing mere than the amountofCorward lean each tooth hruI, Ba;ically. the more hook angle a blade has, the more pull, or j{n\b the blade will have on th~ workpiece, One effect 0( this pulling action i. that the rate of feed tends to be fa.'t~r whenever the hook angle is
RIP ItADE
il'lC'eL~
I
~
===::::
:====C=R=O=SS=C=U=T=B=l=A=D=E
R~ucinl( the hook angle also reduces both the amount of gnb the blade exhibits, andtherat('ofre"d Cutolfsawbladesare a good eumple of when a SlIiaIIer hook angle woukl be used to prevent the blade from gr1lbblDg. or "running" through the piece being cut. In raet, AS the hook angle approaches. and eve n exceeds (1" (producing a nega. live hook angle - or when the teeth lean backwards), the blade exhibits no grabbing effect at 811. Thi. il! extremely important when euuing' metals. where total conlrol over the rate of Ieed is needed.
R" BLADES
• COMBINATION BLADE
• __
..:==========~..:m::o:n::I~:.'
\\'()()I)SMITH
\\lwn eh_ing a blade for ripping, the high",! eol~m It< u.uaIly with the rate of feed. and not the quality of the finish. To provide. rip blade ,,;th the highest rate of feed. oe"eral different aspects are add~~, First. the hook lInllle on each tooth is increased to about 2CY to help pull the workpiece into the blade. Unfortunately. thi~exu ...me forward lean also increases the impaet on each tooth during Ihe eultinjf procc~.. To prevrnt the carbide from breaking under thi. added load. many manufactu rers use a .lightly "'fter carbide on their rip blades (Frt'ud u"" s a softer C·2 grade. rather than the ir normal C-I. whieh is harder and mort' brittle), A flat top tooth configurati"n i, also the most popular becau..... u prond(1l the maximum support for the tip, Seeend, to pre' em tbe high rate of feed from overlnading the blade with weed chips. th,· number of teeth are kept to a minimum, In fact. some people believe that "hen It come. to a np blade. the number ot u-eth L, more important than the tooth configuratIon. The maximum number of teeth on a 1(1"rip blade is
:co:n~i_d_('r_('(_I_to_be_2
CROSSCUT BLADES
The main dlfTerellCel>between a crosscut blade and • rip blade are the number of teeth. the hook angle. and the tooth configuration-', In other words, they're quality finish when doinlt cut·off work, To produce a higher quality finish. cut·off blade" use a higher number of teeth (40 piUll) in comparison to a rip blade (2<1 Or less), If this many teeth were used on a lip blade, they would create an instant clogging problem, But when used on a crosscut blade. lhert' 8l"i' several reasons why they create no problem. at aU. Fim of all. the hook angle on a <1'OSSCUt blade i. u.ually kept \\;thin (1"• 7'. By keeping the hook anllie in this range. the amount of gnblMng i. kept to. minimum. or even rompletely eliminated (a necessity for U>(' on the radial arm saw l. The real advantage to this i> the total ronlrol it gi,'e. over the rate of feed. Mo.t material being trimmed with a crosscut blade I~ rAlMYnarrow, This helps eliminate any problem. associated \\;th using a higher number of'teeth 00eaU>(' lhe blade u.uaUy i~n't in the wood long enough for the chip. to clog up the smaller gutlets between tho teeth. Using a different tooth configuration also help. a Crtl>HCIlt NlW blade produce a finer fini"h than a np blade. The most oommon profile " the Alternate Top Bevel for all-purpose cn""CIlttinlZ of solid wood, Another profile thaI', usually used for cro..cuttinjf pl."tlc laminates, or par. tideboard;" a Tnpl~ Clup profile. COMBINATION BLADES
Obtaining pt'",'Ction on every cut is impo......ible With anyone bind,', But there ;.. a type of blad(' that ean achieve a Iairly high level of quality over a "ide range of CUll' ... comhination blades. There are two distinct characteristics that make combination blades unique . First. of nil. combination blades use a hyblid tooth .onfi~\lration that'. simply called 8 "eombination"I,rofile. This profile allows the blade to either crosscut or rip without any mll,jor drawbacks to either operation. The second mllior di>tinction of a eombination blade i, the large !lUlIet ID front of the raker tooth. Th., oversued gulJet helps improve chiP rem,,,a] dunnjf rip operatiens, thu' lD
be_r_ot_l_ce_th_in_r_re_Al'_C8_,
--:'"
19
SPlClflCS
At thls point, all of th.. information is basically just • lot of talk. The true test o( the quality of a bla<1~ k' getting It in the shop, and maldng >01114.' sawdust. So I pur. chased a ,'anety of carbid .....tipped blade, and put t~m thro~h the lfood.,llith shop test. I "'!",rated the billde:. bemg tested into two cDltRorlt·s: .tandard carbide-tipped saw blades. and lhe new generation of "super" carbid~-tip""d blades, For l.esLing the sLal1dardblade~.1 purchased two commonly a"ailable and reasonably priced b...ands: &'lU'>< anrl Freud. Th e new "super" carbid .....tipped blades I tes ted "en' th. Ifr So"vJ".181ad~manufactured by Forr•• t Manufacturing ($162). and I Teflon coated. -anti1Mp" cut·off blade ($110 manufactured by freud 'The chart on page 21 gives the results of the qualily t",na on the blade. tested. Al> for our opinions and reeommendaticns, here goeR •••• The standard "'''' blad es can be di\ided into three ""t.-gone,: RIp blades. Crosseu; blodts, and Combination blades. In each category •• C'·I·ra) blades were tested. In some CBIII'K. tho blade. being tested were technically id..ntical, and in ethers, the blades we'" .lij(htly different. COMBINATION
IlLAOE5
S~.AR" .a·TOOTH(·O\lB.,'TIO\ BLAI>L. The Sta" I().toolh eombinauon bladl>uses an ATB tooth ronfil(Uration. IS oppc>Sedto the eombinauun profile of tbe Freud
bIad.~. One err""l of ""in, an ATB tooth profile on Ihe~ blade is that the rate offeed is much slower, Th", '" due to the lack or any larj{c 1(U1I.1lI. which arc part or the "com· binatlon" tooth configuration. But what really surprised me W35 how the fleatK bladp compared to the Freud blnde when rrppi ng' hardwood and plywood. The quality of cut produced by the ATII profile Se.... blade was definitely lower than the Freud blade. And considering thr only real difference between the tooth configuration. on these two blades is the additJon of. ralwr tooth on the Freud blad es, th,' overall quality of the Sear.,
blW beeom es the best all-round blade. Although the rate offeM i. ,lil{htly slower when ripping, the improved quality of the edll(' produced makes thL' blade the clesest to a "do allblade of any I tested.
The three combination blades I rested "ere: a ~O-tooth ~ .... blade that uses an AT B preflle, and 41). and 5O-tooth Freud bbde' Ihat use the combmation profile. CROS5CUT IlLAO£5 THE Htf.1 II C'O)lBt"TIO:< BLAlIES. Both tho: ~I).and 5O-tooth .'reud combination The c~t blade' I te.,ted included a blad<»-ha,~ (our ATB teeth and one raker Sears Tl·looth ATB blade and a F....ud tooth ... h",h is the t)'piral "combination" 6O-tooth Tnple Chip blade. \\lIen <"",tlt'l. and worse in ping 011 Ih~ top face. but Ihere Wall no· 8110ther, The combination profile l'e'(.. ·med hearr than the other. 5O-tooth blade .Iowed 1M rate of feed e\'en \\'hen both blad(:~ "ere u
prom,·
w,..
20
I
RIP IlLAOlS
Blades (or ripping are gt:Mrally limited w • no more than :!4 teeth (for a 10- blade). Of the blade> I tested, only nne 1$this mold - a Freud 24-tooth rip blade. The ....,.,00 blade I tcsted "a.. a :Jo.tonth Sears model. The reason this blade """ included in the lest. even thoUllh it had more than 2-1 teeth, i, because it', lhe blade Sears n>eommpnds for ripping, PII£t I) %"TOOTIIIIII'I'IN(;RLADE. It onlv look olle CUtto realize thai thi.. blade wis genuinely dpsignt,1 for ripping. The first thing that'~ noti«'aruut on thl' bottom was unacceptable for anythinl1 except I',rl/ rough work S~;AR.~ so-room RII' IlLADE, Alter using the Freud rip binde, I was anxious to give the S<>ars blade II try. c'lX'ciaJly since the tooth configuratIon on both blades \\'3$ identical. Unfortunately. as soon as I made a cut. my e~c'tem"nt abated. The finish produced by the :JO.lOOthSears rip blade \\..... wuhout a doubt. inferior to the fini..JI obtained with the Freud blade. And "h,'n you col""der thaI the Sears blade ha.' 30 I~th. ralher than U on the fl'(:ud bJa.le, it was hard to 1Ifllkon,'t3Dd ho.. lh<'re could be thia much deterioration in qualit) , COlort.t'lll" There really ...a.' • wide range of quality difference in the finish produced by the two blarle". The floeud blade not only produ, ...~1a better finish. it olso CUtat • faot"r rate. Although some of the discl'<')lted. TIK·iZ·tooth Sear. blade. on the other hand. "IS really no betu>r than the freud IO-tooth combinatil>n blade. CO'tLI sIO" f'rom the "",Wl> of thl> te." bel ween the Freud and the Sears blad~. ilappea" that th~y're about equal in the quaJit) of th.,r performance. with the Freud bl...l... Ilj(htly In front. But when lOU factor in the qua.lity of the blade. the ~reud blnde com,', oul on top by a signifi'
cant margin. \VOODSMITH
•
can only be attributed to the quality of the blades themselves. By itself. the results of this test could possibly be dismissed as a nuke. BULwhen Lhey'Tecombined with the problems found with the other Sears blades I tested. I think a fllirly clear picture tan be drawn on the quality. or lack of it. in the Sears blade s. On the other hand, the Freud blades eontinually performed at, or above the predieted norms in aU three categories. And wben the heavily diseeunted prices of the Freud blades are taken into consideration, it becomes clear to me that they not only represent higher quality, but they also represent a better value in the long run. THE"SUPER" BLADES I've grouped two different blades under this classification because they've been manufactured with exacting' standards exeeeding the indusu'y norms, or they have incorporated a new type of technolOJ!:Yin their design. MR. SA\\'Ilt:~T. The Mr. Sawdust Signature line sa" blade manufactured by forrest Manufacturing is advertised rut "the only saw blade you'll ever need." That's a srrong claim. One of lbe reasons the people at Forrest boast about thclr blade with ouch zeal is that it's manufactured to very specific toleranees (its plate tolerance is within .001"). Then to top it oIT. they've put an exceptiona! edge on the carbide tips using a super-fine 600-grit diamond wheel. AU in all. the blade is t he finest example of qualit)! we've seen, with one exception - the pin holes in the brazing alloy. According to Forrest. this isn't a problem. But according to everyone else, the pin holes shculdn 't be there ... especially on a SI60 saw blade. Because of the high number of teeth. this blade performs at its best when used as a cutoff blade. But it can also be used as a rip blade, although the quality orthe cut ,
10· BLADE
COMPARISONS RetGlt Prlco
-
II of l.o'h Carbide Qualtty Pla1. HorclnoSi
-
I
II
AlP BLADES
CROSSCUTBLADES
StARS 90T32012 $29.99
f.rUD LM72M $64.8S
StARS 9 Gl31~56
30
24
72
60
NlA
Cl
MIA
«
stiff
niH
'tiff
I'lff
--
Carbide SilO (len9th)
8/32sr
Tip Bro.z'ng
good
Tip Orlndlng
produced the finest finish uf all the blade. I tested, Freud not only manufactures this blade to higher tolerances (plate tole ra nee of less than .001") than their standard blades. they've also improved on the standard tooth configuration (ATB) by adding some secondary bevels. Then they coated the plate with a layer of Tenon to reduce the friction between the blade and the wood. (The icing on the cake.) \Vhen crosscutting, the Freud blade produced a finish equalled only by the finish the Forrest blade witli the help of the 6" dampener. And thal's saying' 8 lot. (The common reaction around OUI' office was '°1 can't believe this cut ill straight off the
is only equivalent to about. 4().tooth combination blade. But one orthe most surprising aspects of the forrest blade is its ability to rip with a rate of feed nearly equal to that of a 4().tooth combination blade. The method Forrest uses to accomplish this feat is. according to them, a trade secret and cannot be disclosed, But they did reveal that it bas a lot to do with their special adapnon to the standard Triple Chip tooth configuration. '\lbat isn't A secret is lbe cost of their blade. At Sl62. it's by far the most expensive blade on the retail market. But the ke)" question is whether or not it's worth the eost, In all honesty, for crosscutting. the Mr. Sawdust blade produces the fmest finish you could ever want. And when yOU add the optional 6" dampener(it'sjusta piece of very nat steel that fits between the blade and the outside collar to help stabilize the blade), the results are incredibly good. \Vhen crosseuttmg oak. the finish is. as smooth as gia:;s. It's as close to perfection BS one can get, without I};ng. Is it worth an extra $100 when compared to some of Lhe standard blades? To answer that. perhaps another question should be asked fil'st. How good i. good enl}ugh when il comes to the quality of the finish? In my opinion. once you've reached a certain point, any further improvement in rhe quality of finish is academic, and usually too expensive to justify. Whether this blade, or any other "super" blade CI'O-_5 the line and enters the never never land of perfection i$ purely personal opinion. My opinion is that this blade produces the finish I 've been searching for. but my pocket book says "you\'e got to be kidding:' fRF.t'tl Al'o'TI-CRWBLADE. After testing the Forrest saw blade, Ifelt that, using:my other blade would be a let -down, I was surprised again. Freud's new Teflon-coated cut,off blade
-
$54.'9
f.LUD LU82M $86.44
"
II
saw ...)
Because 1 was so impressed with the finish the Freud blade produced when crosscutting. ( decided to try it at ripping (although with 80 teeth. it's really designed only for crosscutting). The finish it produced during ripping was of better quallty than the freud 5().tooih combination blade. Finally I tried cutting some plywood, and you guessed it. the Freud blade pr oduced the finest finish again (the Forrest blade produced a small amount of tear out on the bottom edges). WHtCH BLADETO BUY? If Iwere trying to choose a carbide-lipped blade that would come do ses t to "doing it all", without. doubt. I'd choose the 5O-tooth Freud combination blade. Then to compliment this blade, the next blade I'd purchase is a 24-tooth rip blade, and finally a 60 to i2-tooth cutoff blade. ,u far as the Super blades, not only is the freud Anti-wil> blade cheaper. but it alse produce. a finer CULthan the Mr. Sawdust blade. But honestly, tho only way 1 could consider purchasing either super blade would be if I were doing an awful lot of cut·off work, or had the money to burn. Otherwise. I'd just use the standard blades and pocket the difference.
II
,.rUD tU84M $70.99
M:r. SawduS1
40
40
60
aD
NIA
CA
MIA
«
I,'H
niH
,tiH
SfARS 9G132S5 $39.99
-
"IH _
6./:32
$/32
1:'/32"
.,,(el
good
exc.1
good
rough
lmooth
rough
.mooth
roueh
lunout Tolerances
MIA
.003·
NIA
.003"
MIA
.003
Moxlmum RPM
5SOO
7000
5500
7000
SSOO
7000
II of [xpan.Jion Stob
0
4
3
6
\\'OOOSMITH
"
lS/32
4
II
''¥32
_
smooth
UMS
fORREST '162.00
9/32 "
"
excel
gullet,
I
SUPERBLADES
COMBINATIONBLADES
fREUD LU8SM $110.88
-
good
exc.1
._!: smooth -
91:32" ., smooth
.001
.001'
NIA
7000
4
--
8
-
-
21
l
Joinery: Half La~s ------
_
MAKING ENDS MEET
Hllflape are easy to eut ... at least they appear thaI "a)" on the surface. But the trick to making a good. sturdy half lap is to cut it 00 the joining halves are smooth enough to provide good gluing surfaces. Also, you need to take enough time on the initiallle!'up to make sure each half of the joint i. truly 0,,~·1/a1fthe thickness of the ~. A' far a!o actually cutting the joint is eoncerned, theno are two wa)~ to go about It. I) remove the "ute by making multiple pa.._ •• over thn blade, or 2) make twa ind"'idual cul.8 - one cut at the sboulder and the I('<'OIl
One of the e"'l""t waY' to cut a halflap is to make multiple pao._ over the blade. \Vith this method. only one set-up IS needed. However, there i. a drawback - the linish on the ch....k of the Joint is not as good as the two-rut method. CIIOI('&or lIl.ADf:S. Although any saw blade can be used to make this cut, a rip blade "illllroduec 8 better surface because it make, a "at·bottomed cut. A dado blade can also be u:;e.l bUIsome clean-up may be needed to .mooth the cheeks. SET 81.'PE IIll(;lfT. To set up this CUI. (IJ'!'I..,t the ""lltht ofthp blade. Raise the blade to jU'1 •• rrud~en Itu than ,"""half
I
the thicknl'l"of the stock. Tb~~makeaeut TWO CUT MlTHOD at the end of a lest piece. ~ hp the scrap over and make another pass right below The second method for cutting a half lap the IInu one. 'ev fig. I. involves making two cuts - one to estabThere should be a thin sliver of wood Iishthe.hould~r,andthesecondtotrimorr that the blade didn'l cut. Raise tbe blade the cheek. This melhod produces a very just a touch, and make the same two cuts clean joint, ready for gluing. again. Then nopeat this procedure, until SHQlil.llF.R(IT The firsl step in this the ,liver i. skimmed olf. ' two-rut method I~10 make a cut at the Sf.T. f;\(E. Once the height of the blade shoulder line. S<>IIhe hcighl of the blade is UM.' tht· ft,"", as a top (lr the lIhoulder line, see to po!'iti(>I1 the Ie""" (or the shoulder en 00 Fig. I. \\ 'hen the saw i.set up, go ahead the nr.t board. _ t·lg. 2. Hold the right and make the
""I.
I
MULTIPLE PASS METHOD AGUIl1 USlSKONO
"ler
fO SfT
ftNC1 fOIl
SHOtJlDIl CUT
TAW
TWO-CUT METHOD """It •
SKONO CU'ON
•
Mel
lLAD[
22
\VOODSMITH
_ __:T:~a~JkingShop
•
AN OPEN FORUM FOR COfvV\AENTSAND QUESTIONS GLUING UP NARROW BOARDS
J hal'f a qutl(roll tho/ I hope you can (I'l.tUtt·r. lVJirlltt't'J,"',1 f'dge gilU)lga large
,,,'.'tT
pantlfrolll 31n~lif solill stock, I knoll' whlft width 10(fit the 81ri1l-<, Are tilt .(rip' rill to dif.fe".,ri wid/Ir.!or thr diflttfnl '1lfriP3,likrook, u'(lbr~/,lUfh, or >naplt! And arr tlfPrf (lny rul.•• of tlrllllfb 1/"" folio.' .'h,,, gluing up larg,
pa.rtl., Bill Pouell D<1Ir<:T. Colorado Th<'Or"'lr.lI~. the ",dths of the strips ollould u«,rding to the species of ...000. The re.....n for tJili. il;that under the
\I",
same eondition,... the amount of movement (in all Ihn'(' planes - tangential, radial, longitudinal) ran "cry widely from one specie of wood to another. By using nar· rower strips with apecies that traditionally have a tendency toward excessive movement, the ilI·effecI. in some directions (cupping, for example) can be controlled. However, Ih('", are two other factors tluil r('ally have more 10do with determining the amOU1l1 of movement of • panicular board: the 1~'iX'of CUllingpattern lhal was used to CUIthe log into lumber (Ilal sawn, rift NI" n, qua1'l~r .. " 0), and the original posiuen oflh~ indi,;dual pieees in relationship to the pith, or the log's center. (The .10,,(,1'1m'"it'«! " to Ihe pIth of the log. the more rhaJ'k't> lht'n: i... that it ma~' cup.) Soin thl'OI')',tht· "idlhof each pi_ proJ>. I ably should vary according 10 the specie., it', original po.ition in the log, and Ih. CUllingpattern u,~-d whon cutting the log. BUIin pruclic,', I'Vf found that as long as I keel>th,' width "fl'R.h .trip belw.,'n a"·5" (for all .1~'\'l".I, nol onl~' M" """.t of 111., ('Uf'plnr pr(1bll'ml( IlNot)(,1nt(.'l y.·Jthin n·a· ""n, iio much for Ihl,ori .... COLlECTING OLD TOOLS
Weju.-.t ",...,i"ed a !4IIl1p1e copy otTh. F.." ToolJown.ot, t\ XMl:Ot~lI"o .. Hood Too" ('oIt'c(Qra ami CrofIs" tn. The be.'1 desoiption oflhe content of the ne..-sleu<:r Is found in the firol paragraph: Tool ",,1Iet'· lOI'II ha,' ...1"0 primary COncerrL'" "1Vhat's il worth'" and "\\110 made iI, where and .. hen1" Th."" are th,· questions The rille Tool JOII",al add,...,,,,, •. Anyone inlere.ted in antique wooo· ""r'k.ing 1001., wh"th.r for their antique \'111 ... , for IlCtu"1u'" In Ihl' 'hop. or just to
,or
•
\\'llODSMITIi
learn more aboul the history of antique woodworking 100"' will find tJili. newslel· tel' very helpful, The i••ue we received Ceatured article< on modern loolmakenl, and "Tid-Bits of U.eful Knowledge rw 1'001 Colleeto rs ," a cla.<..lfiedad section for antique tools, and a li.ung of old original tool catalogs still in prim. Then ju,t 10 lOY with their readers, Ih.n". a column called ""'hatsit?" This column d~bt .... uruque old tool whose ;,t, nlil), and I'u."..... _m to haveeluded all the expprta. The hope is that a reader may have crossed path, with the unknown tool before •-\ OlK" )'nr sub-eription ((or 10 issues: is $10.00. for more information, contact: Sallie H. '\lard, The fine Tool Journal, RD fl2, Poullney, Vermcnt Wi&!
<,
SPLIT TURNINGS
Wh'I/tl""
l'n: l"rllillY
items 0.' a lallie,
turning stock). The only drawback is thaI the PEG must be in a heated vat, and the wood mU~1 b~ totally saturated with heated PEG. Thi. whole process can sometime, take several months, depending on the wood and it.>thickness. ror more information about using PEG, including how to make" heated vat, time schedules, and MUI'«'S, I'd 'U~I obUlin· ing a copy of lI'orking Grt,,, 11'00<1lI'ilir PEG, by Pal rick Spielman, $9.2;;. (On. ,;G~ "' "'ooderan Supply, 41 Atlantir A ve., Woburn, ;ItA 011<>-."1.1 CUnlNG
\\~"f'/rJ/UI' ~lIqrrtJ,l' d"nf'n61C1n&
If'fJ"drr If 1"1*"', a"!1 allo&rOJltt' mad, fur th~ Icfrl of the 301" blodt! I
ect, I
hOt'll'" :ttt If II". ",,'nfiollfd ", any oj'yO~tr article«, and ,11,.1"( (lrt ocoosim'3 K:hnl I
[eel then: i"
boa'is and Olllf"
('Icrt/ond, Ohio Splitting or cnu:kinl( of turned project;; u,.ually i, eaused by lumber thai ha,.,,·1 been properly dried. During lhe turning P"_'_", the \\ ct interior of a semi-dried p.- of" ood ~
dJ')ing lumbrr thIS
"3)"
C3u....;e:.e.xtreme
,In.'lI3 '" th" ,,,, ...t a.< th,' ~Xlerior of th,· I\'ood dn,'s ~hnnk,. and the inlerior tnay. r.-l!lto\'l'Iy\\ "land ~13blc, And wben Ih, ~Inu <1"'II\I'd by Ihi. imbalance be"om,... 1rnll~,'r thlill th~ strcnj(th of th. ", •• llllI<'lf, It .howa up D' .plits or t:nIcks
,II<'
In th(l: lur(a("('.
'rht'rt'
two \\'a)'lC to eliminate the prol~clll 'I h~ 1i....1 is to &at' only wen dried Itn'
lumbt-rldricd t(l7·~ moj..turecontent) to elln halt Ih.,anallonmth.mci>lureOODtent !>.I\\ ,..'tl Ih. ,urfate;ond th~ inlA!rior o(lh, ,,000 Although wing ,,'th, I' kiln dried wood. or Ih..roughl11l1r dried lumber;_" the be.1 anJ'-'t>r. lhi re limes ,,·hen a ~-pecial pietl' of ...ood .h ..". up Ihat can'l be quickl~, or "ff""I".ly l
"n:-
tlO (l1/"",(llIrt for
kerf widths.
J F. ,IJarllltl18
a problem t!wl kttp. rropping np, The problt111i.that tl... Imod kfep8 rl'(rrkillg $ilortly aflat/Ie piece ROJIBBa",~B
uf "101( •
rial in lA, (1<1/"'g drogTO.n.r/or eacb. pro).
t/ltrt!'8
i8111"'cd AIIY.lIoorBhansf
DIAGMMS
\\'ilitlic", ('ali/ornia \\'c do allow for 311ell~1an Yo. kerf for each CUI. And ,;Gmt'limes We actually allow for wider k,·rf. because It', often easier to give each piece I liltle bil extra width, than ha'ing the art .. l. llj' to draw a vel')' thin "''1,,1(' _lion on the ed~ of the drawing. However e did p;ouf on lhe cutting dial(l"8m (or I Tool Storage Cabinet in 1\'00<1." lilt :-;0 25 Here we rorgot to mak~a1Jow.n
nu..
23
Sources WOODWORKING CLUBS THIlEADEDINSERTS
The threaded ("r
lI'ood=jl Supply ('1I'71O"lliotl ~1 At/otitic
..t'·fI"'~
Il"ol",,,, .. I1A 018/:J~ T./~lw"t: 14I()()·U5·1I5J
In MaSll4C/lltB, 118:617,'.t5"';h'~J By ordering part number 12KSI·t·r,
In no particular order (except sort of as they arrived) here's who we've heard from:
ASSO('IATJ(" (l" "(It)'.· \\'ORKERS($A\\), There's n rll'\\' a (.'intIUI)
SAN JOAQl'IV nNE WOOUWORKERS ASSOCIATION. Woodworkers from Fresno to
of woodworkers formin!: in I h. Okloh"",,, City area . SA\\"s (nice name. huh1) rn,'onl"'",h'l' u; currently made up of FNIt'r:d A"oll.n Administration I f'AAl lR,truew",; And technieians at th~ Oklahoma Cit)' Aeronautical Center. hut iJi 01)(00 to anYCln(' anet everyone outside the "~.\A",lll' IPointt·r ested in becoming SIn8c1;'(", Jl;lrll(."l~lln~ member.
Bakersfield (CA) started this club on February 5th. MW'k\\rebster. President, says there11 be three chapters of the club- in Fresno, Bakersfield, and Tulare counties. The club publisho:s a nice looking newsletter, sponsors some woodworking clas"'''', and lhe dues are S20.oo 1"'1' year. Contact: Mark R. We~'ter, 620 North G Str ee I, Porterville. CA 98257 (209· :I!II III'1·n.
you1J gee 3 package of25 inserts which lit'<' I"~'I 8~,,'1IWOOVCRAF'Tt:R'S ci.rs. Yo" long. require. "'. pilot hole. and ~.C'l:I'1 :-Iorm C .·rllodman. President of the a 1'.-20 threaded boll. Prit't' per 25 it> $lUIb. n~wh' rorn.,,1 1',dlO B,·.ch Woodcral'ter's Club: would tiki 10 henr fmm I)lhcr clubs, SAW BLADES They advice, ""pie. "f application The Sears blades tested in this issue are (01111:0. by·la\\'11nnd th., lik~. available in most Sears $tOI"CSIUltion\l;de If you can help NI,nn ~"I hi club .Iartl-d and in their special tool catalogs. righl. \I rile 10 hlln ',Th., "olm ".sch Freud (PO Box 7187, 218 t-eld Avenue, Woockralh'r'" Club. 1'~lCh.·,,,,on Ci",I.·. High Point, NC 2726-1) produces a 96-pa~e Jupiter. f'l, 3:~ISb l:lfl[~717 lli"';;). estaleg' which is svailable for $5.00.The TI:lE ALAB ..\ 'tA \\'CH)I)Wt.l(ht-;tt~ c.t ,•.•• cost of the catalog will be refunded to The Alabama \\' oodwurk.·,.,. Gull.1 .1 "rt.~1 Wood~mit"readers with their first order. in March. They alre~c!yh:<,t·:<111'\\ sletter, II you already own • Freud blade. you can and are planning a show in rnlll.lul) get • free eopy of the caLalog simply by We think the President (If lh.· (;ull.1 hI! submitting proof of purchase. an appropriate first name. Sprue e. For more infonnation about where to Uyou·,. from Alabama. write 10 :-;"I'UltS· GlIt,l). Len Califon.ia, there's a special 'VATS num- Erickson, President of the Colorado \Voodworkcrs' Guild wants you to know ber: 1-800-824-0141. Forrest Manufacturing Co., Inc. only that. if you Ih'e in Colorndo and are inter· ~lIs its products by mail order. So ifyou're ested injoining the Guild, you should write interested in Ihe Mr. Sawdust blade. other to him.t PO Box 5305, Denver. CO 80217. blades they make, or a copy of their t-alaTilE WAsnINGTO!\ (DCI WOODWOflK£RS log, call 1~526-7S.';2 (New .Jeluy resi- CI'IUI. Thi.'gI'Oup h..." ita!! together. They dents caU 1-201-47'.l-5236)or wriu. them 31 bold meetings \\ith eX~l'tspeakers on a 250 Delawanna Avenue, Clifton. NJ 07014. varielY of woodworking subjects, and provide what must be a popular and appreciWOODWORKING CLUBS at;:group PUI-clla.,. Justaboutfiveda)'saflerthe last issue \\'3.5 ing of supplies and equipment. mailed, we started 10 receive responses in The latesl issue of their newsletter reanswer to our request for information ported on a wine and cheese party where about woodworking clubs. member Chip Baker (another approllriate It's not the same as being thel'e, but.we woodworking name) said the \\;ne W3$ $ure cl1ioy reading the newsletters that somewhat lacking in substance. Later the are sent tn. editor reported that "Our meeting\' are BYOB." \Ve thGughtthal wa:; the kind of "''hat surprised us - and may .urpri." ~'ou - i. the incredible ,'8J'iety of wood- meeting we'd like to attend. BUI Jelr working clubs. quickly shatte",,1 our illusions by e>q>lainOur offer to help with membership re- ing the BYOB for. woodworker:; guild 1m.' cruiting and publicity for anyone who 10 mean "bring your own 000 m8." wants to contribute stand£. JUSt send any lfyou're in the \Vashington, D.C" an'1l, information about your clubs to Steve ""ntact. Ed Mark. Secretary. 1656 DUD· Krohmer, ·/.Wood8I1litli, 1912Grand Ave- terry Place. McLean, VA 22101 lor IIlf,n' nue. Des Moines. Iowa 50309. infonnation.
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