08-Mar-16
Marker and Marker planning Marker: • It is a long thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for different sizes for a particular style of garments
The length also depends on• Number of garments to be produced from a spread lay • Length of cutting table • Production planning etc.
Purpose of Marker Making • • • •
For optimum utilization of fabric Reduction of fabric wastage Speeding up the production process Get maximum number of pattern pieces from one lay of fabric
Spreading
Spreading – The process of unwinding large large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of garment
Types of Fabric spreading: i. Flat Spreading ii. Stepped Spreading
Precautions needed while spreading fabric: i. Alignment Alignment of plies ii. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws iii. Correct ply direction iv. Correct ply tension v. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease
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08-Mar-16
Spreading related Equipment
Tables - Normal table - Vacuum table
Pinned Table
- Conveyor table - Pinned table
Vacuum Table
Fabric Loaders
Fabric weights/Clamps/Pins
Fabric Weights
Fabric clamps
Fabric Roll Loader
Spreading- Methods Spreading
Machine Assisted Spreading
SemiAutomatic
Manual Spreading
Fully Automatic
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08-Mar-16
Manual Spreading Machines Operating procedure: • Fabric is carefully pulled out with help of hands • Then, fabric is spread and cut to appropriate requirements • Process is continued to form layers
Advantages: • Easy to operate • Low investment • Suitable for small scale garment industries
Limitations: • • • •
Speed limitation Skilled labor required to operate Chances of improper selvedge alignment Small roll size
Semi-Automatic Spreading Machines Operating Procedure: • Same as Manual Spreader • Movement along the table and fabric pulling can be controlled by buttons
Advantages: • Fast and economical • Proper selvedge alignment • Ease to operate with electronic clutch
Limitations: • • •
Fabric roll loading, cutting is still manual Not suitable for large scale manufacturing houses Small roll size
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08-Mar-16
Fully Automatic Spreading Machines Features: • Automatic loading/unloading device for fabric rolls • Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay • Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment. • Automatic cutting device at the end of a run • Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension • Automatic lay height sensing elevator • Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying • Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min
Cutting
Cutting – It is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments
Types of Fabric cutting machines: i. Manual, e.g. scissors, cutters ii. Semi-automatic, e.g. Round knife cutter, band knife cutter, etc. iii. Fully computerized, e.g. Laser, water jet, etc.
Precautions needed while spreading fabric: i. Safety first, gloves, eye covers, clothing etc. ii. Stability of fabric layers iii. Care of cutting blades and machine iv. Selecting correct type of cutting equipment for a cut v. Precautions for heating of blades
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08-Mar-16
Manual Cutting Equipment Scissors Are normally used when cutting only single or double plies Laser guided scissors
Adantages!
Almost all types o" cloths are cut by scissors Very cheap
Limitations and disadantages!
(lectric Scissors
#annot be used "or mass production #annot cut more than $-% piles o" "abrics Low speed &mpossible to wor' continuously "or long hours )ecoratie (dge scissors
Semi-Automatic Cutting Equipment
Straight 'ni"e
Round 'ni"e
Adantages • • •
#omparatiely cheap Production speed is ery good Rough wor' can be easily done by hands
,and 'ni"e
otcher machine
)isadantages • Faulty 'ni"e could damage "abric layer • *ni"e re+uired to change • Weight o" the motor creates 'ni"e de"lection which may be creates "aulty pieces
5
08-Mar-16
Fully-Automatic Cutting Equipment
#omputeri3ed cutting machine
Laser cutting machine
Adantages • • • •
#utting de"ects are less Less labor cost Suitable "or ery large scale o" production o need o" mar'er paper
Water-0et "abric cutting
Plasma cutting machine
)isadantages • Very e.pensie machines • Very high on maintenance • ot suitable "or cutting multi leel "abric /water 0et1 laser2 • ot suitable "or synthetic "abric/laser cutting2
CUTTING PROCESS
#4TT&5 &S THE PREPRODUCTION PROCESS OF SEPARATING (SECTIONING,CARVING,SEVERING) A SPREAD INTO GARMENT PARTS THAT ARE THE PRECISE SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE PATTERN PIECES ON A MARKER.
IT MAY ALSO INVOLVE TRANSFERING MARKS AND NOTCHES FROM THE MARKER TO GARMENT PARTS TO ASSIST OPERATORS IN SEWING.
6
08-Mar-16
CUTTING EQUIPMENTS
T6( (74&PM(TS 4S() & #4TT&5 PR8#(SS AR( #ALL() #4TT&5 (74&PM(TS9
P8RTA,L( #4TT&5 *&V(S
STAT&8AR: #4TT(RS
S(RV8 #4TT(RS
SP(#&AL&;() #4TT&5 MA#6&(S
(74&PM(TS F8R TRASF(RR&5 MAR*S9
PORTABLE KNIVES
#A ,( M8V() T8 A) T6R8456 A SPR(A) ,: A 8P(RAT8R9
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7
08-Mar-16
VERTICAL STRAIGHT KNIVES
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#4T W&T6 A 4P A) )8W A#T&89
M8ST #8MM8L: 4S()
8
08-Mar-16
STRAIGHT KNIVES
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ROTARY OR ROUND KNIVES
A ROUND BLADE THAT CUTS WITH A DOWNWARD TURN ATBTHE LEADING EDGE9 OPERATES WITH A ONE WAY THRUST TTING CAPACITY IS DETERMINED BY THE RADIUS OF THE BLADE, MOTOR SIZE AND SPEED. CANNOT MANIPULATE AROUND TIGHT CURVES AND SHARP ANGLES. USED FOR ST.CUTS AND LARGE RADIUS CURVES.
9
08-Mar-16
OF PORTABLE KNIVES
1. 2. 3. 4.
,LA)(S ARE MOUNTED IN A VERTICAL POSITION. VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES,CUTTING ACTION AND EDGE FINENESS. AFFECT THE QUALITY OF CUT MAY BE FLAT SURFACE,SAW TOOTHED,SERRATED, OR WAVY WITH A STRIATED SURFACES
10
08-Mar-16
BASE PLATE
SUPPORTING FOUNDATION TO BALANCE THE CUTTING. VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES DEPENDING UPON THE SIZE AND WEIGHT OF THE KNIFE GUIDES THE KNIFE IN RELATION WITH THE CUTTING TABLE THEY ARE SUPPORTED BY BERAING ROLLERS EDGE OF THE PLATE IS SLOPED
11
08-Mar-16
POWER SYSTEM
CONTROLS THE MOTOR AND POTENTIAL CUTTING SPEED THE AMOUNT OF POWER NEEDED TO CUT A SPREAD DEPENDS ON THE HEIGHT OF THE SPREAD AND THE DENSITY OF THE FABRIC TO BE CUT HORSEPOWER DETERMINES THE AMOUNT OF THRUST HIGHER SPEED MEANS KNIFE MOVING FASTER GREATER HORSEPOWER INCREASES MACHINE POWER AND WEIGHT ALSO
SHARPENING DEVICE
APPROPRIATE FOR THE SPECIFIC BLADE TYPES BLADES DULL QUICKLY WHEN CUTTING A DEEP SPREAD OR DENSE FABRIC PREVENTS ROUGH ,FRAYED,OR FUSED EDGES MAY BE STONE OR EMERY WHEELS OR ABRASIVE BET SHARPENERS
12
08-Mar-16
HANDLE
TO GRIP,GUIDE AND PROPEL THE KNIFE THE SPREAD
THROUGH
BLADE GUARD
RESTS ON THE TOP PLY TO HELP STABILIZE THE SPREAD AND TO PROTECT THE OPERATOR’S HAND METAL MESH GLOVES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE AS A SAFETY DEVICE
STATIONERY CUTTERS
AR( T68S( #4TT&5 MA#6&(S T6AT 6AV( ,LA)(S 8R #4TT&5 )(V&#(S T6AT R(MA& & F&B() P8S&T&8
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13
08-Mar-16
BAND KNIFE
BAND KNIFE
FINE BLADES THAT ROTATE THROGH A SLOT IN THE CUTTING TABLE CAN BE USED TO MAKE ONLY LATERAL CUTS BLADES ARE FINER AND NARROWER THAN RECIPROCATING BLADES TEMPLATES OF PLASTICS OR HEAVY CARDBOARD MAY BE PLACED ON ON TOP OF A SECTIONED BLOCK TO PROVIDE A GUIDE FOR CUTTING SPECIFIC SHAPES SAFETY CONCERNS ARE MORE
14
08-Mar-16
DIE CUTTING MOST ACCURATE MEAN OF CUTTING DIES ARE PRESHAPED METAL OUTLINES WITH ONE CUTTING EDGE BASIC PARTS 1. TABLE BLOCK 2. RAM HEAD 3. MOTOR 4. RAM DRIVE SYSTEM
contd..
WHEN AN OPERATOR ENGAGES THE MACHINE,THE RAM HEAD MOVES INTO THE PLACE ABOVE THE DIE,APPLIES TONS OF PRESSURE TO THE DIE,RELEASES AND RETURNS TO POSITION.CUTTING ACTION IS VERTICAL AS THE RAM PRESSES THE DIE INTO THE SURFACE OF THE FABRIC. FREQUENTLY USED FOR SMALL PIECES OF HIGH ACCRACY LIKE COLLARS,POCKET FLAPS OR APPLIQUES LEATHER GOODS ARE FREQUENTLY CUT CAN ALSO BE USED TO CUT SHAPES FROM THE CENTER OF THE GARMENT PARTS
15
08-Mar-16
contd..
DIE CUTTING IS LABOR INTENSIVE WHEN DIES ARE MANUALLY PLACED IT CAN BE AUTOMATED FOR CONTINUOUS LINE CUTTING A SINGLE DIE FOR A T SHIRT WOULD CONTAIN A SINGLE PIECE BODY UTILIZING A FOLD AT CENTRE FRONT AND CENTRE BACK DOVETAILED WITH A SLEEVE SHAPE.
SERVO CUTTER
A BRIDGE BETWEEN COMPUTER CONTROLLED AND MANUAL CUTTING OVERHEAD SERVO MOTOR WITH ADJUSTABLE SPEED AND A SUSPENSION SYSTEM THAT SUPPORTS A KNIFE PERPENDICULAR TO THE CUTTING TABLE THIS REDUCES PROBLEM WITH TILTING THE BLADE AND INACCURATE CUTTING IT CAN MAKE TIGHTER TURNS W ITH LESS DISTORTION IN THE LAY IT COMBINES VERTICAL CUTTING AND BAND KNIFE CUTTING INTO ONE MACHINE
DEEPER SPREADS WITH GREATER ACCURACY
LESSERINVESTMENT THAN COMPUTERIZED CUTTER
16
08-Mar-16
SPECIALIZED CUTTING MACHINES
)(S&5() F8R SP(#&F&# 8P(RAT&8S A) SP(#&F&# PR8)4#TS
CLOTH CUT STRIP MACHINE
WIRELESS RECHARGEABLE ELECTRIC SCISSOR
MINI ROUND CUTTER
17
08-Mar-16
TRANSFERRING MARKS
MAR*S A) 8T#6(S AR( TRASF(RR() FR8M MAR*(RS T8 T6( P(R&M(T(R 8R &T(RAL S4RFA#(S 8F 5ARM(T PARTS T8 FA#&L&TAT( T6( S(W&5 8P(RAT&8
MAR*S S684L) 8T )AMA5( 8R )&S#8L84R T6( V&S&,L( PARTS 8F T6( 5ARM(TS9
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$9
&T(RAL MAR*S
AUTOMATED,NUMERICALLY CONTROLLED CUTTING SYSTEM
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08-Mar-16
ELEMENTS OF CNC
TA,L(
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*&F(
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S(RV8 M8T8R )
KNIFE CUTTER
CNC for leather C
SP(()D E-<$ msec
C
Length o" 'ni"e depends upon
C
number o" plies9
19
08-Mar-16
Types of knifes used
20
08-Mar-16
LASER CUTTER
It is a V shaped beam of width of 0.004 inch. Cutting speed= 30-40 m/min Heat produced tends to seal fabric. It can focus to limited depth Suitable for cutting single ply. More accurate
21
08-Mar-16
Laser cutting CNC
WATER JET CUTTERS WidthD9<-9
22
08-Mar-16
Water jet cutters… Cutting Source : High Pressure Water + Abrasive Table(Cutting Table Unit) - High rigidity and precision feed system driven with X-axis and 2-axis simultaneous driving mechanism, in - gantry structure - Ball-Screw Feed driver enables high precision feeding (Repetitive Accuracy: ¡¾0.03mm, Position Accuracy: ¡¾0.05mm) - Nut-mechanism provides high speed/high accuracy driving - Block Lattice can be replaced according to user requirement, or by - individual Lattice replacement
23
08-Mar-16
4000 Series Cantilever WaterJet
Comparison… AbrasiveWater Jet v Laser
AWJ strengths.. Accuracy the same as Laser but in much thic'er materials
Parts up to Emm thic' in almost any material
o heat-a""ected 3one to preent secondary operations
24
08-Mar-16
ULTRASONIC CUTTERS
Produces vibration freqyency of 20 kHz
10 plies can be cut.
Lower price than laser cutter.
PLASMA ?(T •6igh temperature ionised gas acts as •6eat emission causes damage9
cutter9
PLASMA CUTTER
25
08-Mar-16
Plasma !tt"ng is a process that is used to cut steel and other metals /or sometimes other materials li'e te.tiles2 using a plasma torch9 &n this process1 an inert gas /in some units1 compressed air2 is blown at high speed out o" a no33leH at the same time an electrical arc is "or med through that gas "rom the no33le to the sur"ace being cut1 turning some o" that gas to plasma9 The plasma is su""iciently hot to melt the metal being cut and moes su""iciently "ast to blow molten metal away "rom the cut9 Plasma can also be used "or plasma arc welding and other applications9
Speci"ications! &nput oltage! /E=632 $$V I- <J
Rated wor'ing oltage /V2! @= )uty cycle /J2! = o-load loss /W2! > (""iciency /J2! KE Power "actor! 9@% &nsulation grade! , 6ousing protection! &P$< Pilot arc model! touch #utting thic'ness /mm2! <-<= 5ross weight /'g2! @ Fittings! Tra"imet<< )imensions /mm2! W %G<. )
26
08-Mar-16
Air plasma cutter
Features: Metal plates with different thicknesses can be cut into any shape Continuous, adjustable and exact cutting current Optimized design layout, high frequency inverter, high duty cycle, low energy consumption Compact in volume, light in weight, easy to carry, especially suitable for outdoor, mobile operation
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