Sample 1 93

B F SEE INSIDE FOR SAMPLE MATERIAL FROM

Integrating Draping, Drafting, & Drawing

9 x 12 240pp hardcover, spiral binding 978-1-56367-486-0

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing

Contents

C O N T E N T S

Extended Contents .................................................... ix Preface......................................... .............................................................. ................................... .............. xi Chapter 1

Tools and Supplies ......................................... 1 Chapter 2

Skirts ........................................ ............................................................ ................................. ............. 21 Chapter 3

Bodice ........................................ ............................................................ .............................. .......... 55 Chapter 4

Bodice Variations .......................................... 79 Chapter 5

Necklines and Collars ........................... 107 Chapter 6

Sleeves ...................................... .......................................................... ............................. ......... 133 Chapter 7

Dresses ........................................ ............................................................. .......................... ..... 165 Chapter 8

Drawing ........................................ ............................................................ ...................... .. 189 Appendix......................................... ............................................................ ................... 221

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Extended Contents .......................................................... ...................................... .................. xi Preface......................................

Chapter 3

Bodice Chapter 1

Tools and Supplies Draping: Muslin ...................................... ...................................................... ................ 2 Tools and Supplies ........................................... 2 Comparing the Dress Form to the Drawn Form............................................ 4 Drafting: Muslin to Paper Pattern ....................6 Tools and Supplies ........................................... 6 Drafting: Paper Pattern to Sloper ...................... 7 Tools and Supplies ........................................... 7 Terms and Definitions........................................... 8 Draping ...................................... ........................................................... ............................. ........ 10 Taping the Dress Form ................................ 14 Pattern Symbol Legend ...................................... 16 Drawing ......................................... ............................................................. ......................... ..... 17 Tools and Supplies ........................................ 17 Drawing the Flat Figure ..................................... 18 Fashion Figure versus Flat Figure ...................19 Chapter 2

Skirts Draping the Skirt ................................................. 22 Trueing the Skirt Muslin: Waistline ...............28 Making the Skirt Sloper ..................................... 32 Drafting the Skirt from Measurements .........34 Drawing Skirt Flats ............................................. 38 Skirt Variations ...................................... ..................................................... ............... 39 Straight Skirt ................................................... 39 Flare Skirt ......................................... ........................................................ ............... 42 Six-Gore Skirt ................................................. 45 Pleated Skirt .................................................... 48 Dirndl Skirt ...................................... ..................................................... ............... 50 Drawing Structured Drape ............................... 52

Draping the Bodice .............................................. 56 Trueing the Bodice Muslin ................................ 62 Making the Bodice Sloper ................................. 66 Drafting the Bodice from Measurements .....68 Drafting the Neckline and Armholes ......72 Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders .....73 Completed Bodice Draft ............................. 74 Shaping the Bodice ....................................... 75 Drawing Options ................................................. 76

E X T E N D E D C O N T E N T S

Chapter 4

Bodice Variations Bodice Variations ................................................. 80 Shoulder and Waist Dart Combination ...80 Princess Seam..................................................... 82 Armhole Princess Seam .................................. 86 Front Waist Dart and Back Neck Dart ....90 Drawing Bodice Variations ........................... 93 Side and Waist Darts ....................................... 94 Shoulder Yoke with Tucks and Gathered Waist ...................................... 96 Gathered Neck with Yoke .......................... 100 Dartless Back Shoulder................................ 103 Drawing Bodice Details ........................... .............................104 ..104 Chapter 5

Necklines and Collars Necklines ..................................................108 Jewel Neck .................... ............................... ..................... ...........108 .108 V-Neck ................................................110 Scoop Neck ..................... ............................... .................... ..........112 112 Square Neck .................... .............................. .................... ..........114 114 Bateau Neck .................... .............................. ....................1 ..........116 16

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i x

g n i w a r D d n a , g n it f a r D , g n i p a r D g n it a r g e t n I

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Collars.......................................................118 Peter Pan Collar ..................... ............................... .............118 ...118 Pilgrim Collar.......... Collar .................... .................... ..................120 ........120 Mock Shawl .................... ............................... ....................1 .........122 22 Convertible Collar........................... Collar...............................124 ....124 Two-Piece Shirt Collar.........................126 Band Collar .................... .............................. .................... ...........128 .128 Drawing Necklines and Collars ................130 ................130 Chapter 6

Sleeves Draping the Sleeve .................... .............................. ................134 ......134 Stuffed Arm .................... .............................. .................... ...........134 .134 Marking the Muslin ...........................140 Drafting the Straight Sleeve ......................144 ......................144 Draft from Measurements ..................145 ..................145 Draft the Cap .................... .............................. ..................146 ........146 Drafting the Fitted Sleeve ..................... .........................148 ....148 Draft............................. Draft....................................... .................... .............148 ...148 Sleeves ......................................................150 Leg-o-Mutton............................. Leg-o-Mutton.................. ....................1 .........150 50 Slim-Fitted Bell .................... .............................. ................152 ......152 Blouse .................... .............................. ..................... ....................1 .........154 54 Full Bell .................... ............................... ..................... ................156 ......156 Puff .....................................................158 Turn-Up Cuff .................. ... ............................. ...................160 .....160 Drawing Sleeves ..................... ............................... ..................162 ........162

x

Chapter 7

Dresses Dress Foundation Sloper....................... Sloper...........................166 ....166 Draping the Dress Foundation Sloper.......168 Sloper.......168 Dresses ..................... ............................... .................... .................... .............170 ...170 Shift Dress .................... .............................. .................... .............170 ...170 Princess Dress .................... .............................. ..................174 ........174 Sheath Dress .................... ............................... ....................1 .........178 78 Tent Dress............................................180 Drawing Dresses ..................... ............................... ..................184 ........184 Design Variety...........................................186

Chapter 8

Drawing Donald Brooks: Costume and Fashion Designer .................... .............................19 .........190 0 Collars and Cuffs............................. Cuffs......................................19 .........192 2 Five Stages for a Garment: Collar.............194 Sleeves.......... Sleeves .................... ..................... ..................... .................... ..............196 ....196 Five Stages for a Garment: Sleeve .............198 .............198 Pleating .................... .............................. ..................... ..................... ............200 ..200 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice............202 Five Stages for a Garment: Skirt ..............204 ..............204 Five Stages for a Garment: Bodice Variations ...................................206 Five Stages for a Garment: Dress .............208 .............208 Back Drape ..............................................210 Dresses ..................... ............................... ..................... ..................... ............212 ..212 Sketching Options....................... Options................................. ..............214 ....214 Flat Figure and Fashion Figure .................216 .................216 Drawing Soft Drape........................... Drape..................................218 .......218

Appendix Dress Form Measurement Chart ..............222 ..............222 Standard Sportswear and Streetwear Dress Form ...........................22 ...........................223 3 Croquis Templates .................... ............................... ................224 .....224


Preface T his book is about a dialog between an artist and a technician. It illustrates the design process, encompassing sketch and garment pattern development. It depicts the relationship among three disciplines of fashion design: draping, drafting, and drawing. The integration is presented in a highly visual format. These disciplines, particularly draping and drafting, are often taught in separate classes. Their relationship is integral to efficient and timesaving methods of developing a design and its pattern. Our aim is to create bridges between studio methods and design illustration. Each chapter renders a combination of skills and the natural flow among them. Two-dimensional design informs the three-dimensional and vice versa. Chapters are presented as hands-on learning experiences with lessons that mimic classroom demonstrations. Step-by-step photography portrays the draping process in a sculptural way rather than using illustrations, which cannot truly depict the response of fabric draped on a dress form. The images of muslin “sculpture” combined with digital drafts offer interchangeable solutions for pattern development. Throughout the book, there are alternative methods used by practicing designers for developing slopers. These are master patterns, created by draping or drafting and used to generate style variations. We chose the basic components of the

dress as the model used throughout the text to demonstrate how draping, drafting, and drawing are integrated in design development. The components are the skirt, bodice, neckline, collar, sleeve, and dress foundation. These disciplines are similarly integrated in the design of men’s and children’s wear. Each chapter builds on the last. After an introduction to tools and preparation techniques in Chapter 1, Chapters 2, 3, and 6 begin with draping as the first step in producing a sloper. Drafting the sloper is then offered as an alternative method. Chapters 4, 5, and 7, focusing respectively on bodice variations, necklines and collars, and dresses, begin with drafting because, for many of the design variations, these chapters utilize slopers developed in the previous chapters. In the case of a design variation such as the leg-omutton sleeve, for example, drafting the pattern is more efficient than draping it. All design starts with an idea, which needs to be translated into a sketch. Drawing basics are interwoven throughout the book, with an emphasis on understanding body lines in relation to the dress form and proportion. It is directed toward communicating specific garment detail in the context of related projects. Lessons ground the creative process and strike a balance between the technical and visual elements. Drawing informs draping and drafting, just as these disciplines inform drawing. Step-by-step instructions on

P R E F A C E

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drawing the fashion figure as well as flats are included in each chapter chap ter.. Drawings correspond to patterns and convey countless ideas for design diversification and inspiration. In 2003, Kathleen Maggio curated the exhibit Donald Brooks: Designer for all Seasons . She became acquainted with Mr. Brooks and his work while he served as a visiting designer critic to the fashion design department of Parsons School of Design. This twentieth century designer is renowned for his accomplishments in costume design as well as on Seventh Avenue. The authors found that dresses from the exhibition collection served as the ideal inspiration for this book. Even using the basic garment components taught in this book, Mr. Brooks’ designs exude timelessness in their execution and fabrication. Chapter 8 is devoted to drawing exercises focused on rendering his designs and their fine design details. It also depicts the relationship that exists among draping, drafting, and drawing exemplified in the images of garments from Chapters 2 through 7.

Acknowledgments We would like to thank Tim Maggio for his photography, technical drawings, and graphics. Thank you to Fred Gross for his word crafting of drawing text and support. To Wolf Form Company, thanks for their assistance. We are grateful to Bill Rancitelli for his drawings, as well as to Jerry Blum and Kay Blick for a glimpse into Donald Brooks’ portfolio. Many thanks to Fairchild Books editors Olga Kontzias, Sylvia Weber, Jessica Rozler, and Beth Cohen and the multi-talented Fairchild team for helping us to bring this project together. To the reviewers selected by the publisher, we express our appreciation of their recommendations. They are Melanie Carrico, Kent State University; Andy Chan, Massachusetts College of Art; Kathy Mullet, Oregon State University; Artis Rewerts, University of Texas Austin; Susan L. Stark, San Francisco State University; and Sandra Tonz, Mt. Mary College. We’d also like to thank our students, whose enthusiasm and creativity continue to kindle our passion for fashion.

3

B O D I C E With experience gained from producing the skirt sloper, sloper, you can now develop the bodice pattern. Draping the bodice involves balancing the front and back muslin, distributing and controlling fullness by forming darts, and fitting the neckline and armhole. The muslin drape is trued and transferred to paper, paper, and a sloper is created. Detailed instructions depict taking measurements and drafting a flat pattern for the bodice as another option. Drawing the body contours is a critical factor in visually communicating the fit and form of the bodice. Studies of body lines, proportion, pose, flats, and specs are included in this chapter. chapter.


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Draping the Bodice Tape the Dress Form • Bust • Center front and center back • Princess lines • Side seam • Base of the neckline • Shoulder seam • Shoulder blade level (4 down from neckline at CB) • Armhole ridge Note: Do not cover seam lines with tape. Pin along side them.

Prepare the Muslin

Mark the Muslin

1 Front length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the waist at CF plus 2 

1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in CF line

Bust Level Width

2 Front width: Measure from the CF at bust level to the side seam plus 2 1⁄ 2 

2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level. Square a line across the muslin.

Center Front

3 Measure from the CF to the side seam across bust level. Add 1⁄ 2  for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line.

Length Side Seam

5 56

1

Drape 1 Align the muslin length and cross grain line with the tape on the dress form. Pin the muslin at the CF neckline, 3  above and below the bust tape and waist. Pin the cross grain line at the bust point at princess line. 2 Distribute 1⁄ 2  ease across the bust line and pin cross mark at the side seam.

2

1

2

Shoulder Dart

Neckline Center Front

B O D I C E

Bust Level

Side Seam

Waistline

Form the Shoulder Dart Drape the Neckline 4

1 Pin at the intersection of the center front seam and neckline of the dress form. 2 To release the muslin for fitting, cut a 2  2 square off the corner. 3 Pin and slash down the seam allowance (perpendicular to the neckline) toward pin.

6 Smooth the excess muslin from the bust line pinned at the side seam up over the shoulder towards the princess line and pin. 7 Fold the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the shoulder.

4 Continue pinning and slashing along neckline to the shoulder seam. The muslin should lie smoothly across the chest and shoulder, with no stretching or pulling at neckline. 1⁄ 8  ease should be included. 7

5 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder neck point to the princess line or midpoint on the shoulder and pin.

8 Pin the side seam starting at the arm plate down to the waist. 9 Pin out the fullness from the shoulder down towards the bust point. 8

9

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g n i w a r D d n a , g n it f a r

Draping the Bodice Bust Point Center Front Waistline

Armhole

D , g n i p a r D g n it a r g e t n I

3

1

Side Seam Waist Dart

5

6

7

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Form the Waist Dart

Mark the Draped Muslin

1 From the side seam at waist, pin along the waist toward the princess line. Slash the muslin towards the pins. Allow for 1 ⁄ 4  ease along waist.

4 With a pencil, dot along the bottom of the twill tape along the waist and side seam.

2 Smooth and pin from the center front waist towards the princess line. 3 Fold the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart towards the bust point.

5 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist and the intersection of the side seam at the waist and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the shoulder, shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at the shoulder neck point. 6 Dot along the shoulder and neckline. 7 Fold the excess muslin to the front, clearing the shoulder and side seam for the back drape.

Prepare the Back Muslin Torn Edge

• Back length: Measure from the dress form neckband to the waist at Center Back plus 2 .

Shoulder Blade Level

B O D I C E

• Back width: Measure from the CB at bust level to the side seam plus 3.

Bust Line Level

Mark the Muslin

Center Back Line

1 Measure 1 in from the lengthwise torn edge. Draw in the Center Back line. 2 Measure from the neckband to the bust level tape. Square a line across the muslin. 3 Measure from the CB to the side seam across the tape. Add 1 for ease. Cross mark for the side seam on the bust line. Shoulder Blade Cross Mark

Cross Mark for Side Seam at Bust Line Tape

Back Muslin

4 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape. Mark and square a line for the shoulder blade level. 5 Measure across the shoulder blade level to the arm plate and cross mark. Drape the Back 1 Align the length and cross grain lines with the bust line tape. Pin the muslin at the CB neck, shoulder blade, bust line, and waist. Pin the cross grain line, distributing the ease along the tape. Pin across the shoulder blade level, distributing 1⁄ 4  ease to the cross mark at the armhole ridge. 2 Pin along the back neckline of the dress form, slashing down the seam allowance toward the pins. Secure at the shoulder seam.

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59 5


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6 60

Draping the Bodice 1

Form the Shoulder Dart

2

1 Smooth the muslin from the shoulder neck point to the princess line on the shoulder and pin. Muslin should lay flat across the chest and shoulder with no stretching or pulling at the neckline.

3

2 Smooth the excess muslin from the shoulder blade line at armhole up over the shoulder towards the princess line and pin.

4

3 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a small dart along the princess line. 4 Measure 3 down from the shoulder and mark the vanishing point of the dart with a pin.

Mark the Draped Muslin Form the Waist Dart 5 From the side seam at the waist, pin along the waist toward the princess line. Slash the muslin towards the pins. Allow for 1⁄ 4  ease along the waist. 6 Smooth and pin from the center back waist toward the princess line. 7 Pinch up the excess muslin to form a dart. Pin the fullness at the waist and pin the dart along the princess line to 1 above the bust level line. 8

9

8 Dot along the bottom of the twill tape along the waist and side seam. 9 Cross mark on either side of the dart at the waist and the intersection of the side seam at the waist and arm plate. Cross mark at the end of the shoulder, shoulder, on each side of the shoulder dart and at the shoulder neck point. 10 Dot along the shoulder and neckline. 10

Join the Front and Back Bodice

1

2

1 Fold the leg of the dart closest to the centers toward the sides and pin them closed. Pin the front over the back at the side seam matching the grain line and cross marks. Pin twill tape around the bodice waistline.

B O D I C E

2 Join and pin the front and back shoulders together with the excess muslin turned out. Trim, leaving 1  seam allowance. 3a

3b

4

5

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61 6

3 Fold the front shoulder and pin over the back, matching the shoulder darts. 4 The shoulder length for a size 8 should be 5 . The darts should be centered on the shoulder seam. 5 Match the shoulder cross marks and dot around the armhole ridge. 6 Dot along the lower half of the arm plate. 7 Blend the front and back waistline by marking along tape.

6

7


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Trueing the Bodice Muslin 1

1 Remove the muslin from the dress form, keeping the side seams pinned together. together. Unpin the shoulder seam. 2 With the darts still pinned closed, measure the front and back waists. They should each include 1 ⁄ 4  ease. Adjust if necessary. necessary.

2 3 Square a line from the center line 1  to begin trueing the waistline.

3 4 Use a hip curve ruler to continue drawing the waistline along the dots.

4

5 Unpin and open the dart. Draw in the dart legs with a straight ruler. For a sloper, the front dart points may end at the bust level line. Measure across the bust line. The front and back should each include at least 1⁄ 2  ease. 5 Sketching the Upper Torso

Bust Line

6

B O D I C E

6 Lower the armhole at side seam 1.

7

7 Use a curve ruler to draw in the armhole. It should reflect the curve of the arm plate.

8 8 The back armhole will need to be drawn with the curve in two parts since it’s 1  longer than the front. 9 Draw the side seams. 9

10 Pin the shoulder darts closed and draw the shoulder seam. The back shoulder seams may be slightly curved from the princess line to the neck. Use the curve to draw that in.

10 Center Front

Princess Seams

Mapping Out Darts on the Torso

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Trueing the Bodice Muslin 11

12


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13a

11 Remove the pins at the mouth of the darts. Slip folded carbon paper inside the dart and run a tracing wheel across the seam to obtain the jog of the dart. 12 Neckline Pin the shoulders together. Lower the neckline 1⁄ 4  at the center front and widen the neck 1⁄ 8  at the shoulder seam. Use an L-square for the first 1⁄ 4  of the neckline in the front and 1 ⁄ 2  in the back. 13 Draw the new neckline with a curve that reflects the curve of the originally marked neck.

13b

14

14 Complete the drape by trimming the seam allowance to 1⁄ 2  at the armhole and neckline. A 1  seam should be allowed for the side seam, shoulder, shoulder, waist, and centers.

B O D I C E

15 Pin the trued and trimmed muslin back together to check the fit on the form. Mark a notch at the screw level on the armholes and a second notch 1⁄ 4  below the notch for the back. Drawing Flats Steps for drawing a flat free-hand without a flat figure reference.

Drawing a flat figure as a guide or reference to establish the correct proportion and fit of a garment. Tracing Paper or SemiTranslucent Marker Paper

1 Neckline 2 Shoulder and then Armhole

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3 Creating Matching Side Seams

4 Planning Hemline Width

Sketching Only the Garment as it Would Fit

Flat Figure Sketch on Another Page

5 Starting Shoulder Darts

Flat of Your Garment without the Figure

D

6 Finishing Waistline Darts A

B

C

A Proportions B Sewing Lines C Fit D FInished Flat


Making the Bodice Sloper Muslin to Paper Pattern 1 Mark any additional corrections on the muslin pattern, remove the pins and press flat. 2 Draw length and cross grain lines on the pattern paper. paper. Place the muslin on the paper, matching grain lines. Use pattern weights or push pins to hold the muslin in place. 3 Transfer pattern lines onto the paper using a tracing wheel with a serrated edge. Working on a soft surface such as cork is ideal. Guide the wheel with a ruler for smooth transfer of lines. shoulder, and center seam 4 Allow 1 for the side seam, shoulder, allowances. The neckline, armhole, and waist have 1⁄ 2  allowance. Extend all seam lines into the seam allowances.


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Paper Pattern to Sloper 1 Cut oaktag twice the size of the pattern. Fold it in half and press a sharp, flat folded edge. Draw a cross grain line using an Lsquare. Fold the center seam allowance of the paper pattern under and align with the fold and the cross grain. 2 Transfer all pattern lines to the oaktag using a needle point tracing wheel.

Drawing Darts for This Bodice

B O D I C E

3 Draw seam and dart lines with a pencil, using straight and curve rulers. Mark length grain lines parallel to the center lines. 4 Cut straight lines with a blade. Use scissors or pattern shears to cut curved lines. Seam allowances are not necessary on slopers. 5 Notch the dart legs, armholes and cross grain line at side seam. 6 Punch a hole at the apex of the darts. 7 Complete the sloper by punching a large hole and hanging it on a pattern hook.

Fit

Construction Detail

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Flat of This Bodice


Drafting the Bodice from Measurements N +

K+

L +

I+

|

+O

W

I+

+

Q +

W1

3/8”

+M +A

L1

D

J+

1”

+ J1

3/4”

E

C

+ F

+B

I+

+

W1

Q +

1/2” 7/8”

Y

U

I+

+O

+

+

+ armplate screw

Q +

+O

+

S

+P

X+

S1

++ A

+ Z4

+ Z4 _

Z1

++ A

1/4”

_

+B

T

+M

S1

C

1” 1”

+ F

11/4” +P

+A

R +

W1

S

X+

S

Z3 L + W

+

+M

1”

Front

N +

K+ Z1

1”

E

Back

Z3 L + W

+

1” 1”

+ J1

Front

N +

L1

D

J+

S1

G

V +

H

Back

K+

+P

X+

G

H

+O

+

+M +P

_

+

_

_

_

Z2 +

Z2 + approx. 1”

V +

H D

J+

+ J1

G L1

U Back

6 68

Q +

L +

N +

K+

5/8”

Y

approx. 1”

+ F

V +

H

E

R +

C

+B

T

D

J+

Front

+ J1

U

G L1

Y

E

+ F

R +

C

1”

+

T

Back

+B

Front

Accurate measurements are required to draft a bodice sloper. Carefully measure the dress form or human figure and record these illustrated measurements. The following pages provide step-by-step drafting instructions. Measuring the Dress Form

1 Center front length (base of neck to waist)

2 Bust circumference (fullest part at bust level). Pin tape parallel to the floor

3 Front neck to bust level

4 1⁄ 2 bust circumference CF to CB

B O D I C E

5 Side seam (waist to 1 below arm plate)

10 Back waist to shoulder (1 from CB waist to end of shoulder)

15 Front shoulder length

6 Back neck to bust level

11 Back shoulder (base of neck to end of shoulder)

7 Center back length (base of neck to waist)

12 Front shoulder neck to waist

16 Bust point to bust point

8 Back shoulder, neck to waist

9 Across back shoulder (armhole to armhole)

13 Across front chest

14 Front waist to shoulder

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17 Waist circumference

18 Across back


Drafting the Bodice from Measurements = Center Front Length - Extend a straight line 2 in from the right side of a 24   24 sheet of pattern paper 2 A to C = the distance from the base of the Neck to the Bust level 1 1 3 C to D = ⁄ 2 the Bust Circumference plus 1 ⁄ 4  ease 1 1 4 D to E = ⁄ 2 CD minus ⁄ 4  5 E to F = Side Seam guideline (bust level to waist) 6 F to G = Side Seam (waist to 1 below armplate). Extend the guideline to the top of the paper 7 G to H = Square a line to the Center Back from G. Extend the line 2 1⁄ 4  toward the front 8 D to I = Bust level to the Back Neck 9 I to J = Center Back Length 10 J to K = Waist to the Shoulder Neck Point Square a line across to the side seam guideline 1 11 K to L = ⁄ 2 of Across Shoulder measurement plus 1 for dart & ease 12 Square a guideline from L down to H-G. 1

A to B

Drafting Diagram Steps 1 – 21

N +

K+

13 14 15 16

17

18

19 20

21

Mark L1 where they intersect Square a guideline from J toward F for the back waist Square a guideline from B to F for the front waist J to J1 = 1 J1 to M = Set the ruler at J1 - measure the Back Waist to Shoulder length to the point where it intersects with line L-L L-L1 M to N = Set the ruler at M - measure the Shoulder length plus 1 for dart/ease to the point where it intersects with line K-L B to O = the Center Front Waist to Shoulder Neck point. Square a guideline across to the side seam guideline Draw a parallel guideline 5⁄ 8  to the right of the side seam line from the top towards line G-H B to P = Center Front Waist to Shoulder at armhole. Place the ruler at B, mark where it intersects the 5⁄ 8  guideline P to Q = Front Shoulder length plus 2 for the dart

L +

5/8 ”

Q +

I+

+O

+M

|

+A

+P

7 70

G

H

L1

D

J+

1”

+ J1

E

C

+ F Back

+B

Front

to R = 1⁄ 2 the Bust Point to Bust Point Square a line from R to the waist guideline. Measure 1 on either side of the line and draw dart legs. Extend all dart lines 1⁄ 2 past the waist guideline 1 B to T = ⁄ 4 of the Waist circumference plus 2 3⁄ 4  (the front is 1⁄ 2 wider than the back, plus 1 ⁄ 4  ease, plus 2 for the dart) T to G = Front Side Seam 1 Q to S = ⁄ 2 the Front Shoulder S to S1 = 2 for the Dart . At the center of the dart extend a guideline down to R. Connect dart legs to R and extend all lines 1⁄ 2 past the shoulder guideline V = Intersection of J1 – M with line G-H. Shift 3 ⁄ 4  towards the Center Back and mark V 1 U = Square a line down from V , extending ⁄ 2 past the waist guideline

22 C 23

24

25 26 27

28 29


31 32 33 34 35 36

Mark 1 on each side of line and connect the dart legs to V - Extend the dart legs 1⁄ 2 past the waist guideline 1 1 1 J to Y = ⁄ 4 of the Waist minus ⁄ 2, plus 2 ⁄ 4 for dart and ease Y to G = Back Side Seam 1 1 N to W = ⁄ 2 the Shoulder plus ⁄ 8 ease 3 W – W 1 = ⁄ 4 (Dart ) From the dart midpoint draw a guideline 3 1⁄ 2 to X Connect the dart legs to X . Extend dart lines 1⁄ 2 beyond the shoulder line

L +

N +

K+

30

W

I+

+

Q +

W1

3/8”

+P

X+

J+

+ J1

1”

1”

U Back

1”

S +A

G L1

D

S1

1”

|

71 7

3/4”

V +

+O

+

+M

H

B O D I C E

Y

E

+ F

R +

1” 1”

T Front

C

+B

g n i Drafting the Bodice from Measurements w a r Drafting the Neckline and Armholes D 37 Square a horizontal guideline from the Center 41 Z = ⁄ of Z - H-G Front and Back Neck . Square a vertical line up 42 Square a line from H-G to Z d to the Shoulder Neck Point 43 Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the n guideline square. Draw P-Z -G using a French a 38 Front Neck: Draw a 1 ⁄  guideline at a 45degree angle to the guideline square. Use a , curve. g French curve to draw in the neckline A-Q. Keep 44 Back Armhol Armhole: e: K – Z = ⁄ the Across Back n the Center Front neckline level for ⁄  before measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G it curving 45 Z = ⁄ Z - H-G f a r 39 Back Neck: Draw a ⁄  guideline at a 45-degree 46 Square a line from H-G to Z 2

2

3

1

2

1

4

2

1

3

1

4

1

4

7


2

2

3

8

4

angle to the guideline square. Use a French curve to draw in the neckline I-N . Keep the 1 Center Back neckline level for ⁄ 2 before curving 1 40 Front Armhole: Armhole: O to Z 1 = ⁄ 2 the Across Chest measurement. Square a guideline down to H-G

Draw a 1 guideline at a 45-degree angle to the guideline square. Draw the lower armhole Z 4-G and the upper armhole Z 4-M using a French curve

47


I+

Z3 L +

N +

K+

W +

+

Z1

W1

1/2” 7/8”

+O

+

S

+M

|

Q +

11/4”

7 72

S1

+P

X+

++ A

1/4”

+ Z4 armplate

_

+ screw

_

_

Z2 + approx. 1”

V +

H D

J+

+ J1

U Back

G L1

Y

approx. 1”

E

+ F

R +

C

+B

T Front

Drafting the Waistline and Shoulders Separate the front and back bodice. Fold the waist dart legs closest to the centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed. Match and pin the side seam together 49 Square a line 1  from the Center Front and back waist towards the side seam. Use a curve ruler to blend the front and back waists 50 Run a tracing wheel across the waist and draw in the jog of the darts 51 Fold the shoulder darts dart legs closest to the centers towards the sides. Pin the darts closed. Draw a straight line from Q to P for the front and from N to M for the back. Run a tracing wheel across the shoulder and draw in the jog of the darts. Note: The back shoulder can be slightly curved when adjusted on the figure 48

Match and pin the bodice shoulders together. The back is slightly longer for ease. Blend the front and back neckline and armhole at the shoulder 53 Measure and prepare two pieces of muslin. Transfer the draft to muslin using a tracing wheel and carbon c arbon paper. paper. Add seam allowance and cut out. Pin fit and adjust 52

B O D I C E


I+

Z3 L +

N +

K+

W +

+

Z1

W1

Q +

+O

+

S

+M +P

X+

S1

++ A

+ Z4 _

+

_

_

Z2 +

V +

H D

J+

+ J1

U Back

G L1

Y

E

+ F

R +

C

1”

+

T Front

+B

|

73 7

g n i Drafting the Bodice w a r Completed Bodice Draft D d n a , g n it f a r Shoulder

D , g n i p a r

Level

C e n t e r B a c k B o d i c e

D g n it a r g e t n I

|

Blade

from Measurements

Bust Level

e c i d o B t n o r F r e t n e C

This sloper is used for drafting styles that include set-in sleeves.

7 74

C e n t e r B a c k B o d i c e

1/2”

Adjusted sloper for use in sleeveless styles.

e c i d o B t n o r F r e t n e C

B O D I C E

Shaping the Bodice Bust Line Contour

Bodice Length

Bodice Dart Position

Bodice Fit

Bust Level

The fit on the front of the bodice is designed to contour over the bust apex. The bust apex is the fullest point across the chest. The bust level runs between the front darts.

Full Front

Full Back

The fit on the back of the bodice is constructed to accommodate the subtle contours of the scapula or shoulder blades. The shoulder blade level runs above and parallel to the bust level across the back of the bodice. Scapula or Shoulder Blades

Shoulder Blade Level

Back Dart Position

Shoulder Blade Level Bust Level

|

75 7


|

7 76

Drawing Options Figure Angles

Notice how the direction of the torso, in any pose, affects the contours or curves in the sewing lines, as they turn with the figure. Form and Function

The function of the darts is to make a garment fit or follow the form, in this case, the form of the bust line curve. Body Planes

Pose

Posing a flat has the advantage of emphasizing fit: in this example, the look or fit of the bodice as it hugs the chest. Flat

Flats give you all of the construction and shape detail without the possible distortion of a posed flat. Spec

Elongated Fashion Figure

The torso can be divided into four sides. This pose shows off two sides and the front of this square. The turn direction, for this pose, is evident in the sides and affects where you draw the dart lines.

Specs provide the most comprehensive detailing for every aspect in creating a garment, to produce it en masse.

Shape

Posed Flat Finish

Darts

B O D I C E

Posed The posed flat is usually drawn to emphasize

fit, to highlight form or function. This pose shows off the bustline contouring.

Finish

Note: Shading Softens Look of Fabric and Also Accents the Fit or Form Shape

Darts

Non-Posed Portfolio or Studio Flat

Flat The flat, not posed, focuses on pure shape, con-

struction, and proportion. In this case, the bustline contouring is not emphasized.

Shape

Big Overall Measurements

Small Interior Measurements

Adding Exterior Measurements

Flat Turned into a Spec

Technical Flat Sketch for Production Spec The spec has to be drawn as a precise, plain

flat to reflect the “specifics” of its fit to document its measurements for production.

|

77 7

Sample 1 93

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