NOOB FRIENDLY STARTER MEGA GUIDE Hello! This tutorial is just to start you off with instore carding, most basics and a few tips. Before we start, I'd like to analye the carding terms I will use throughout this tutorial. 1. Dumps umps are the information written on a credit"debit card's magnetic stripe. It comes in tracks # $ %. no address, city, state, no nothing. &ust % lines of numbers"signs. Track Tr ack # shows the card holders name which makes it more useful. If it's a uniue name, you can whitepage it to find their ip which comes in handy if you're a broke mofo and need gas or something that reuires a ip code. (gas station, red box, best buy kiosk, etc...)
(ometimes you will be only sold Track %. I will show you how to make Track # from Track Tr ack % because you need both to write a dump. Here's an e)ample of what you would get if you bought a d ump that came with both track # $ %. T1: 4854240000439134 !"#T$%&'$ 14010100000000000000049000000 T2: 4854240000439134*140101049000000000
*gain, if you buy only track % you will need to make track #. Take this e)ample of dump with only Track%+ 4888603170607238=1010112031!1801!1 ----This is Track % we want to make Track # out of Track %/ 0hen you see and eual sign 1/ in a Track it always means it is Track % S"#p 1$ 2ou 1$ 2ou first must take the 3redit 3ard number from Track Track % 45erything before the euals sign/ in this e)ample, it is6
4888603170607238 *dd the letter 7B7 in the front of the number like this+ B4888603170607238 Then add the cardholder name 289 want to show on the card " receipt B4888603170607238 % Sm&"'()*'+ % :ast name first";irst
?>, and in this case the @ digit ser5ice code is #?# so add #>?>#?#/+ B4888603170607238 % Sm&"'()*'+ % 10101
plastic or the cashier is deep into this/. lastics are not necessary because you can encode any old card, they are just a lot more legit. This can also be a waste of money if you ha5e dumps that die fast. 3. 101(201 umps 0hat is the difference between #?# and %?# du mpsC 0ell it's 5ery simple+ #?# is swipe only and %?# is with chip.
1. &""&+ &" +*m$ If you ha5e an embosser, the sky is the limit. 2ou can pretty much go anywhere because your card numbers match your track which is important because some 8( systems ha5e digit 5erification. =ore on that later. If you are re-encoding old cards and do not ha5e matching last E, then you ha5e % options. 2ou can either find a shop that sells dumps that allows you to filter for last E digits. Then you can go through the cards you ha5e and search the store for cards that match your last E OR you need to make sure the 8( system at the store you want to hit does not ask for last E of the card. ItDs trial and error. (ome places do not ha5e 5erification until you hit a certain dol lar amount. 2. I+s&# &+$ This is the safest way to go. 2ou will need a connection working inside a store who will let you pass cards. (o matching plastic is not a must here and usually you can get away
with a lot and not look suspicious at all. I suggest you do this to get your funds up to buy machinery for random hitting or affording strikers/. ,OS T5p#s + '5 5*u s'*u- # "'&s. There are many 8( systems and alot of them are different one from each other. 2ou will need to know the ones that are easy to swipe and the ones that are slightly harder. *gain, some 8( systems will ask to enter the E last digits of the card number, so matching numbers is a must for these. 45en with an insider, he must enter the matching numbers or else payment won't go through you can write them on a piece of paper and let him enter those digits though/. Emp-#$ * ,OS 9#&&/"&*+s :et's use Best Buy's 8( system as our e)ample. 2ou cannot buy anything in Best Buy without the computer prompting for the last E digits. =ost stores are like this. 0hen checking out with credit, the computer will prompt for the cashier to enter the last E digits. The cashier will then ask to see the card and 5erify it. If you do not ha5e the last E embossed and you're in a store that reuires last E 5erification, just make up an e)cuse, like6 :O'; /"u--5; I **" I +"# "* p5 * "'&s &"' /s'.< ull out some cash, then say, :O'; I *+" '9# #+*u'. >'##s "'# /-*s#" ATM?< This will pre5ent the cashier from entering the last E and it saying :DOES NOT MAT.< which could result in a shitstorm. If you went ahead and presented the card like a dumbass and ha5e a young cashier, they will probably just say:>*; #&; I '9# +#9# s##+ "'" @#*#.< and gi5e the card back to you. If you ha5e a seasoned wise cashier, they will call your bluff and try to take the card. I ha5e found that 0almart does not ha5e any type of 5erification regardless of the price. Howe5er, if your last E do not match they can still look at the receipt and call your bluff because it will show the actual encoded last E.
This only happens if you look like a sketchy motherfucker and they want to test you. =ost will just hand you your receipt and say ha5e a nice day. ItDs up to you to find which stores ask for last E and which do not. 8ther 8(' will ask to enter the c55% @ security digits on the back or E for *me)/ before e5en swiping the card. Feep in mind that dumps bought on the internet don't contain the c55 because it is encrypted in Track% and 5ery hard to decrypt different algorithm for e5ery bank/. (o if you want c55% matching, you will need to skim the dumps and check yourself and note them. 9sually big stores ha5e this. There also are 8( systems that won't let you insert %?# chipped/ cards. These 8('s are good to keep in your book because sometimes, the bins or country you want will be out of #?#s and youll get stuck with %?#s and you can hit them with these 8('s. (o they swipe the chipped card, no inserting nor pin reuired. * good e)ample is 0al-=art or Blockbuster, only the ones who ha5e a black pad as a 8( with a screen for signature capturing they ha5e an insert slot but they don't use it/. * * I *@"&+ umps? Getting dumps isn't really t-at hard. There are @ ways to get dumps+ 1. /&+$ retty simple, you hack 8( systems for dumps with either malware or logging system. This is for ad5anced hackers because you will ha5e to code the malware and test it on a 8( you will buy yourself.
9sually, people ha5e binlists they personally craft you should too/ to find the best ones. (pecial bins and hard to find bins are sought after because they usually ha5e special characteristics like these+ + T-ey die so/er, so /-en a base is aost dead, t-ese are sti aroed. + T-ey are not region+ocked. + T-ey -ae -ig- iits + etc
T'## # 2 5s * @u5&+ umps us&+ @&+s$ 1. S#-#/"&9# B&+s$ =eaning you will ask dump sellers for specific bins that you are after and buy them. 8ne major flaw I ha5e disco5ered where I li5e/ is that when I buy #? pieces of the same BI< and use @-E, the rest of them all become H8:-3*::. I don't really know when that seems to happen, but maybe it's because they disable that bin in your area or something. :ocal bins are always best! 2. R+*m B&+s$ 9sually not recommended because 5endors gi5e you the shittiest bins. If you're buying your own, random might be good. &ust select a few and go test them. But when you're buying big amounts, it's good to mi) it up. 2ouDll find new bins that are good for you. >'" "* * &"' umps? Eu&pm#+" +###? *fter you ha5e your dumps, you can encode them on anything with a stripe. 8ld 5isa gift cards are usually good. If something is to go down, you can ditch that card. 2our name is not associated with it. 2ou will use an =( encoder reader"writer/ to encode the tracks # $ % @ is ne5er used on a cc/ on the card. This is basically the only tool you need.
O"'# #u&pm#+" "'" # ** &+9#s"m#+"s # "'#s#$ 4mbosser Tipper (et+ This is a worthwhile in5estment because non-embossed blank plastics cost #?-#>J in bulk and embossed are up to E?J a piece if indi5idually bought. They are 5ery easy to operate, don't worry. on't need to be a genius to use them. 3ard rinter Holos+ This is for usually for people who ha5e a big operation or want to sell blanks"embossed plastics. I ha5e ne5er owned one because it's too much machinery and it's 5ery e)pensi5e %.> grans upwards if you want a decent one/. Going with blanks is better for me. agers mini#%@ etc.../+ These are good because if you know anyone who works in a fancy restaurant where they pass your card in the back, you can gi5e him a pager that records up to %??? dumps. * "* p*p#-5 '&" s"*# Hitting stores is pretty easy, but it's a pain in the ass if you ha5e just started or you're ner5ous or shy because you will ha5e to act like you are the cardholder. on't dress up like a thug or a kid, dress normally. K*lways know what you are getting before entering, make out a scenario and plan it wisely. *nother important part is finding the stupidest or newest cashier. (ome cashiers will look at your card and 5erify it and some e5en call the manager to come check it. (o find the youngest"dumbest looking cashier or the most fucked-up""stoner cashier because they usually are too nai5e or don't gi5e a fuck. FC IT GOT DELINED(OLDALL on't worry, plenty of people ha5e it happen randomly to them. D#/-&+#$ it means something is wrong with the card, but not e)actly stolen, so they don't know what's wrong with it but it's declined. &ust tell them you'll call the bank and walk away.
OLDALL$ IT ,IN ARE NOT SOLD ONLINE If you want to get ripped off, buy 7dumps with pin7. 2ou will ha5e to skim these yourself.
