© Lonely Planet Publications 9
Contents On the Road
4
Ecuador Highlights
5
Destination Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands
12
Getting Started
14
Events Calendar
18
Itineraries
20
History
26
The Culture
36
Food & Drink
45
Environment Ecuador Outdoors Galápagos Wildlife Guide Quito History Climate Orientation Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights Activities Old Town Walking Tour
53 61
65
75 76 76 76 77 79 79 93 94
Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking & Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around
97 97 102 108 110 111 113
AROUND AROU ND QUITO
114
La Mitad del Mundo Rumicucho Reserva Geobotánica Pululahua Calderón Guayllabamba & Around Sangolquí Refugio de Vida Silvestre Pasochoa Volcán Pichincha
114 116
Northern Highlands Cochasquí Archaeological Site Cayambe Cayambe to Oyacachi Otavalo Around Otavalo Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas Intag Valley Reserva Biológica Los Cedros San Antonio de Ibarra Ibarra La Esperanza North of Ibarra El Ángel Reserva Biológica Guandera Río Blanco Area Tulcán
116 117 117 117 117 118
119 121 121 121 122 128 133 133 134 135 135 139 140 140 141 141 141
WESTERN ANDEAN SLOPES
145
Cloud Forest Lodges Mindo West of Mindo
145 146 149
Central Highlands 151
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CONTENTS
Latacunga The Quilotoa Loop Ambato Around Ambato Baños From Baños to Puyo Parque Nacional Sangay Guaranda Salinas Volcán Chimborazo Riobamba Guano & Santa Teresita South of Riobamba Guamote Alausí
Southern Highlands
157 161 167 171 172 179 180 182 184 184 186 192 192 192 193
195
Ingapirca Cañar Biblián Azogues Cuenca Around Cuenca Saraguro Loja Parque Nacional Podocarpus Zamora Vilcabamba Zumba & the Peruvian Border Catamayo & Around Catacocha Macará & the Peruvian Border
The Oriente
196 197 197 197 199 211 213 214 219 221 223 226 227 227 228
230
THE NORTHER N ORIENTE 231
From Quito to Lago Agrio Lago Agrio Along Río Aguarico Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno South from Lago Agrio Coca Vía Auca Lower Río Napo Parque Nacional Yasuní Parque Nacional
231 236 239 240 241 241 244 244 248
Tena Misahuallí Upper Río Napo Puyo
250 254 256 258
THE SOUTHERN ORIENTE 262
Macas Parque Nacional Sangay Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve The Jungle from Macas Sucúa From Méndez to Limón Gualaquiza From Gualaquiza to Zamora
North Coast & Lowlands
263 265 265 266 267 267 267 268
269
WESTERN LOWLANDS
Quito to Santo Domingo de Los Colorados Santo Domingo de Los Colorados North of Santo Domingo de Los Colorados South of Santo Domingo de Los Colorados Quevedo
270
270 272 274 274 275
THE NORTH COAST
275
San Lorenzo Reserva Ecológica de Manglares Cayapas Mataje Limones to La Tola Borbón to San Miguel Playa de Oro Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas The Road to Esmeraldas Esmeraldas Atacames Súa Same & Tonchigüe Muisne & Around Mompiche Cojimíes Pedernales Canoa Around Canoa San Vicente Bahía de Caráquez Portoviejo
275 277 277 278 279 279 281 281 284 286 287 288 289 289 289 290 291 292 292 295
Montecristi Jipijapa
300 301
South Coast
302
RUTA DEL SOL
303
Parque Nacional Machalilla Puerto López South of Puerto López Olón Montañita
303 307 310 311 311
SANTA ELENA PENINSULA SANTA TO GUAYAQUIL 313
La Libertad & Santa Elena Salinas Playas Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco
318
GUAYAQUIL
318
History Orientation Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights & Activities Tours Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking & Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around
319 319 319 320 320 326 327 327 329 331 332 332 334
SOUTH SOUT H OF GUAY GUAYAQUIL AQUIL
334
Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute Machala Puerto Bolívar & Jambelí Zaruma El Bosque Petrificado Puyango To/from the Peruvian Border
The Galápagos Islands
313 315 316
334 335 337 338 338 339
342
Isla Santa Cruz (Indefatigable) Around Isla Santa Cruz Isla San Cristóbal (Chatham) Isla San Salvador (Santiago or James) Around Isla San Salvador
353 362 363 369 370
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CONTENTS
Latacunga The Quilotoa Loop Ambato Around Ambato Baños From Baños to Puyo Parque Nacional Sangay Guaranda Salinas Volcán Chimborazo Riobamba Guano & Santa Teresita South of Riobamba Guamote Alausí
Southern Highlands
157 161 167 171 172 179 180 182 184 184 186 192 192 192 193
195
Ingapirca Cañar Biblián Azogues Cuenca Around Cuenca Saraguro Loja Parque Nacional Podocarpus Zamora Vilcabamba Zumba & the Peruvian Border Catamayo & Around Catacocha Macará & the Peruvian Border
The Oriente
196 197 197 197 199 211 213 214 219 221 223 226 227 227 228
230
THE NORTHER N ORIENTE 231
From Quito to Lago Agrio Lago Agrio Along Río Aguarico Reserva Producción Faunística Cuyabeno South from Lago Agrio Coca Vía Auca Lower Río Napo Parque Nacional Yasuní Parque Nacional
231 236 239 240 241 241 244 244 248
Tena Misahuallí Upper Río Napo Puyo
250 254 256 258
THE SOUTHERN ORIENTE 262
Macas Parque Nacional Sangay Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve The Jungle from Macas Sucúa From Méndez to Limón Gualaquiza From Gualaquiza to Zamora
North Coast & Lowlands
263 265 265 266 267 267 267 268
269
WESTERN LOWLANDS
Quito to Santo Domingo de Los Colorados Santo Domingo de Los Colorados North of Santo Domingo de Los Colorados South of Santo Domingo de Los Colorados Quevedo
270
270 272 274 274 275
THE NORTH COAST
275
San Lorenzo Reserva Ecológica de Manglares Cayapas Mataje Limones to La Tola Borbón to San Miguel Playa de Oro Reserva Ecológica Cotacachi-Cayapas The Road to Esmeraldas Esmeraldas Atacames Súa Same & Tonchigüe Muisne & Around Mompiche Cojimíes Pedernales Canoa Around Canoa San Vicente Bahía de Caráquez Portoviejo
275 277 277 278 279 279 281 281 284 286 287 288 289 289 289 290 291 292 292 295
Montecristi Jipijapa
300 301
South Coast
302
RUTA DEL SOL
303
Parque Nacional Machalilla Puerto López South of Puerto López Olón Montañita
303 307 310 311 311
SANTA ELENA PENINSULA SANTA TO GUAYAQUIL 313
La Libertad & Santa Elena Salinas Playas Bosque Protector Cerro Blanco
318
GUAYAQUIL
318
History Orientation Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights & Activities Tours Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking & Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around
319 319 319 320 320 326 327 327 329 331 332 332 334
SOUTH SOUT H OF GUAY GUAYAQUIL AQUIL
334
Reserva Ecológica Manglares Churute Machala Puerto Bolívar & Jambelí Zaruma El Bosque Petrificado Puyango To/from the Peruvian Border
The Galápagos Islands
313 315 316
334 335 337 338 338 339
342
Isla Santa Cruz (Indefatigable) Around Isla Santa Cruz Isla San Cristóbal (Chatham) Isla San Salvador (Santiago or James) Around Isla San Salvador
353 362 363 369 370
© Lonely Planet Publications CONTENTS
Southern Islands Northern Islands
Directory
374 375
377
Accommodations Business Hours Children Climate Charts Courses Customs Dangers & Annoyances Discount Cards Embassies & Consulates Food Gay & Lesbian Travelers Holidays Insurance Internet Access Legal Matters Maps Money Photography Post Shopping Solo Travelers Telephone Time Toilets Tourist Information Travelers with Disabilities Visas Volunteering Women Travelers Work
Transportation
377 379 379 380 380 380 380 382 382 382 382 383 383 383 383 384 384 385 385 385 387 387 388 388 388 388 389 389 390 390
402
Health
391
Entering the Country Air Land River Sea
391 391 393 394 394
GETTING AROUND
395
Air Bicycle Boat Bus Car & Motorcycle Hitchhiking Local Transportation
395 395 395 397 398 400 400
Language
408
BEFORE YOU GO
402
Insurance Recommended Vaccinations Medical Checklist
402
Glossary
415
402 402
The Authors
416
IN TRANSIT
402
Behind the Scenes
418
Index
421
GreenDex
431
Map Legend
432
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 402 Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 403 IN ECUADOR
403
Availability & Cost of Health Care Infectious Diseases Traveler’s Diarrhea Environmental Hazards Traveling with Children Women’s Health
403 403 406 406 407 407
Regional Map Contents Northern Highlands p120 North Coast & Lowlands p271
Quito p82
391
GETTING GET TING THERE & AWA AWAY Y
11
Central Highlands p153
The Oriente pp232–3
South Coast p304
Southern Highlands pp198–9
Galápagos Islands pp346–7
© Lonely Planet Publications 12
Destination Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands This small Andean nation towers above most other countries when it comes to natural and cultural wonders. Amazonian rainforest, Andean peaks, premontane cloud forests and the Galápagos Islands set the stage for Ecuador’s spectacular biodiversity. Wildlife-watching is just one way to enjoy its riches, with dozens of animal and plant species found nowhere else on earth. On even a short Ecuadorian adventure, it’s possible to photograph monkeys from jungle canopy towers, swim with sea lions in the Pacific and admire dozens of Ecuador’s 1600 bird species in misty forests. FAST FACTS Ecuador’s blend of lush forested landscapes and volcanic scenery also Population: 14 million provides a spectacular backdrop to adrenaline-charged adventures – from white-water rafting on Class V rivers to climbing 5000m-high GDP per capita: $7700 volcanoes. volcano es. There’s magnif magnificent icent hikin hikingg along old Inca trai trails, ls, surfin surfingg on GDP growth rate: 3.4% tight breaks off the west coast and diving amid dramatic underwater Minimum wage: $200 scenery. per month The incredibly varied geography of Ecuador is matched only by its cultural diversity. Over a dozen indigenous peoples live here, each conInflation rate: 8.6% tributing to the rich and complicated notion of Ecuadorian identity. Unemployment rate: There are highland villages renowned for their colorful textiles, coastal 8.7% Afro-Ecuadorian towns where days end with meals of fresh seafood enNumber of internet users: joyed with memorable sunsets, and remote settlements in the Amazon 1.5 million where shamans still harvest the traditional rainforest medicines of their ancestors. Adult literacy rate: 91% Ecuadorian cities march to equally alluring rhythms. By day, gorPercent of forest loss geous colonial towns such as Quito and Cuenca teem with life, as street since 1950: 54% vendors, politi politicos cos and workers from all parts of the countr countryy mingle on Origin of the panama hat: the cobblestone streets beneath misty Andean skies. At night, the cafés Ecuador and restaurants fill with locals and expats alike dining on regional delicacies before venturing into salsa-filled bars and nightclubs scattered about town. Ecuador has many riches, extending well beyond its cities, people and greenery. These include the country’s agricultural abundance, fishing stocks and substantial mineral and oil reserves. Until recently, the interests of big business almost always trumped the voices of indigenous people and environmentalists, who sought to preserve the land rather than mine it for wealth. Sadly, pristine swaths of the Amazon were polluted following the discovery of oil in the 1960s. Mining for gold, copper and silver deposits has also left huge scars on the countryside, with more projects on the horizon. And small family-run farms of the lowlands have entirely disappeared since the rise of large-scale plantations owned by multinational corporations. The movement to preserve the land, however, has been gaining momentum in recent years, spurred in part by the increasing earnings from ecotourism. Ecuador’s newest president, Rafael Correa, has set some ambitious goals for protecting the environment and the indigenous groups
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DESTINATIONN ECUADOR & THE GALÁPAGOS DESTINATIO GALÁPAGO S ISLANDS
took a pronounced shift to the left on other issues as well, expanding indigenous rights and social-welfare policies and allowing civil unions for gay couples. At the time of research, Correa enjoyed very high approval ratings. Meanwhile, he’s earned critics on both sides of politics. Those on the right say the economic losses will be too high if Correa attempts to implement his socially progressive agenda, while those on the left feel his radical discourse is mere window dressing. The next few years will be pivotal to the young president – and for the many millions of Ecuadorians whose future is at stake.
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