370978952-Lonely-Planet-Bhutan-pdf.pdf

© Lonely Planet Publications 9

Contents The Authors Getting Started Itineraries Snapshot History The Culture

11

Western Bhutan

119

PARO DZONGK HAG

121

13

Paro Around Paro Paro to Thimphu (53km)

122 127 131

19

HAA DZONGKHAG

133

Paro to Haa via the Cheli La (68km) Haa Around the Haa Valley Haa to Chhuzom (79km)

133 133 134 134

PUNAKHA DZONGKHAG

134

24 25 45

Buddhism in Bhutan 63

Thimphu to Punakha (76km) Punakha & Khuruthang

134 145

WANGDUE PHODRANG DZONGKHAG

149

Punakha to Wangdue Phodrang (21km) Wangdue Phodrang

149 149

© Lonely Planet Publications 10 C O N T E N T S

SOUTHERN DZONGKHAGS

180

Zhemgang Dzongkhag Sarpang Dzongkhag

180 180

Eastern Bhutan

181

MONGAR DZONGKHAG

183

Jakar to Mongar (193km) Mongar

184 185

LHUENTSE DZONGKHAG

186

Mongar to Lhuentse (76km) Lhuentse Around Lhuentse

186 187 188

TRASHIGANG DZONGKHAG

188

Mongar to Trashigang (92km) Trashigang Far Eastern Bhutan

188 190 192

TRASHI YANGTSE DZONGKHAG

193

Trashigang to Trashi Yangtse Yangts e (53km) Trashi Yangtse

193

Trashigang to Samdrup Jongkhar (180km) Samdrup Jongkhar PEMAGATSHEL DZONGKHAG

Trekking In Bhutan

Trekking Trekking in Bhutan When to Trek Guides & Camp Staff Trekking Food Clothing & Equipment Maps Treks in this Bo ok Responsible Trekking Health & Safety Druk Path Trek Dagala Thousand Lakes Trek Jhomolhari Trek Jhomolhari Trek 2 Laya–Gasa Trek Gasa Hot Spring Trek Gangte Trek

196 198 198

199

199 199 200 201 202 202 206 206 210 210 212 214 216 221 222 228 228

Snowman Trek Samtengang Winter Trek

237 241

Directory

242

Transport

257

Health

267

Language

275

Glossary

279

Behind the Scenes 282 Index

287

World Time Zones 294


lonelyplanet.com

19

Itineraries CLASSIC ROUTES FOUR DAYS

With just four days you should count on two full days in picturesque Paro (p122), visiting Paro Dzong and the National Museum. On the second day, hike up to the dramatic Tiger’s Nest at Taktshang Goemba (p128) and visit lovely Kyichu Lhakhang. After lunch make the two- to three-hour drive to Thimphu, stopp ing at the charming Tamchhog Lhakhang (p131) en route. Alternatively, move the hike to your last day, when you should be better acclimatised. On day three you could just about squeeze in a long day trip over the Dochu La to Punakha (p145) but you’re better off budgeting an extra day for this. The Punakha Dzong is probably the most beautiful in the country. In October and November it’s worth getting up before dawn to see the Himalayan views from the pass. In March, budget an hour to walk through the gorgeous rhododendron forests above the pass. On the way back to Thimphu pop into the nearby Chimi Lhakhang (p145), the chapel of the ‘Divine Madman’, Lama Drukpa Kunley. Day four is in Thimphu (p97). Go to the weekend market and visit Cheri or Tango goembas in the upper Thimphu valley (p115). If handicrafts are your thing, hit the Textile Museum and National Institute of Zorig Chusum. Late in the afternoon drive back to Paro; most flights depart early in the morning.

Dodina

Punakha

Taktshang Goemba

Lobesa

THIMPHU Paro

Dochu La

Wangdue Phodrang

If you have limited time or money, you can get a good impression of Bhutan in just four days by concentrating on Thimphu and Paro. Try to arrange to be in Thimphu on a Saturday or Sunday to see the weekend market and avoid Paro on Monday, when the National Museum is closed.


www.lonelyplanet.com

25

History Bhutan’s early history is steeped in Buddhist folklore and mythology; it featu res tremendous deeds and beings with supernatural powers. It’s said that a saint who had the ability to appear in eight different forms, one of them being Guru Rinpoche, visited Bhutan on a flying tiger and left the imprint of his body and his hat on rocks. School texts describe demons that threatened villages and destroyed temples until captured through magic and converted to Buddhism. Tales abound of ghosts who destroyed temples, and angels who rebuilt them. Researchers have attached dates to many events, though these often do not seem to fit together into a credible and accurate chronology. When reading Bhutanese history, it’s easier to let your imagination flow. Try visualising the spirit of the happenings rather than rationalising events as historical truth. This will, in part, help prepare you for a visit to Bhutan, where spirits, ghosts, yetis, medicine men, and lamas reincarnated in three different bodies are accepted as a part of daily life. Bhutan’s medieval and modern history is better documented than its ancient history, but is no less exotic. This is a time of warlords, feuds, giant fortresses and castles, with intrigue, treachery, fierce battles and extraordinary pageantry 0 0

HISTORICAL PLACES

50 km 30 miles

Current Borders Border Before 1865 Wagye La

CHINA

Lhobrak Kulha Gangri

Ya La

(TIBET)

(TIBET) Lhodrak La

Ganghar Puensum

Lingzhi

CHINA

Mon La Karchung

Gasa

Jhomolhari

INDIA

INDIA

Tremo La

Phari

(SIKKIM)

Drugyel Dzong

Paro

Haa

Gangtok

Punakha

Thimphu

(ARUNAC HAL

Trashi Yangtse

Jakar

PRADESH)

Trongsa

Simtokha

Wangdue Phodrang

Sakten

BHUTAN Mongar

Trashigang

Zhemgang

Kalimpong

T e e s t a

Chhukha

Z a m i r k o t D u a r

C h a m u r c h i D u a r

Samtse L a k h u D u a r

Ambari Falakati

Daga

Dewangiri

Chichacotta Phuentsholing Sinchula

Samdrup Jongkhar

Buxa Duar

R i v e r

Bhulka Ripu Duar Duar Bura Duar Duar a u m Cooch G Behar

Sidli Duar

BENGAL DUARS

INDIA

BANGLAD ESH

TIMELINE

(ASSAM)

6th Century The animist Bon religion is established in several valleys of what is now Bhutan

Bagh or Bijni Duar ASSAM DUARS

Daifam

Buriguma Duar G h u Kalling Duar k D r h

Chapakhama Duar Chapaguri u a o Duar Bijni or a r l Banska Warsi Duar Duar

e r R i v

a p u t r a B r a h m

7th Century The first Buddhist temples are in Bhutan, such as Kyichu Lhakhang (AD 659), near Paro


R UI SNTNOIRNYG H• •E ANDe p• a• l iR-uS np ne iankgesrus b h e a d H

Of Rainbows and Clouds: The Life of Yab Ugyen Dorji As Told to His Daughter by Yab Ugyen Dorji and Ashi Dorje Wangmo Wangchuck is a fascinating and intimate account of life in Bhutan.

l oonn eell yypp l aann e tt..c om om

not satisfy the camp population and agreement on the appeal processes was not found after many months of negotiation. Frustration in t he camps boiled over into a violent attack on the Bhutanese verification team at Khudunabari in December 2003, stalling the verification process. At the end of 2005 there were 106,000 people in the camps, 10% to 15% of whom were born there. The status of the people in the camps of Jhapa is protected by the UNHCR, which uses donor support to provide the survival rations and shelter. It is likely that if the support disappears, and if the two countries cannot agree on how to resolve the crisis, those in the camps, most of them former farmers, would enter the larger diaspora of Nepali-speakers in south Asia.

2005 Announcement of the intended abdication and planned succession of the throne. Draft constitution released for the Kingdom of Bhutan

2006 Circulation of draft constitution and planned referendum for vote on its acceptance

w w w . lo ne ly p l an e t. c om

45


FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

97

a digestive. The nut is mixed with lime powder (the ash, not the fruit), and the whole collection is rolled up in a heart-shaped betel leaf and chewed slowly. It’s a bittersweet, mildly intoxicating concoction and it stains the mouth bright red. When the remains are spat out, they leave a characteristic crimson stain on the pavement.

EAT YOUR WORDS Useful Phrases There is an array of accoutrements associated with chewing doma that many men carry in the pouch of their gho. The ingredients are carried in ornate boxes and there are special knives designed to slice the nuts.

Where is a ...? local bar restaurant

... gâti mo? changkha zakha

I don’t eat meat. This is too spicy. I don’t like food with chillies. Is the food good? This is delicious. Please give me a cup of tea. Do you have food now? It’s enough.

nga sha miza di khatshi dû nga zhêgo êma dacikha miga zhêgo zhim-mä ga? di zhim-mä ngalu ja phôp gang nang chö dato to za-wigang in-na? digi lâm-mä

Food Glossary beer (local) whisky (local) tea water boiled water cold water hot water

bang chhang ârra ja chhu chhu kököu chhu khöm chhu tshatom

cabbage cauliflower cheese chicken (meat) chilli cooked vegetable corn (maize) egg fish food meat mushroom mustard noodles potatoes radish rice (cooked) salad slices turnips vegetable hot hot (spicy)

banda kopi meto kopi datse bja sha êma tshöse tsotsou gäza/gesasip gongdo ngasha zhêgo/to ha shamu päga bathu/thukpa kewa laphu to ezay pa öndo tshöse tshatom khatshi yömi

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’


lonelyplanet.com

97

T H I M P H U

Thimphu You approach Thimphu along a winding, single-lane access road, little wider than the trucks that suddenly emerge around each curve. Each blind bend promises a glimpse of your destination; however, for most of the journey all that is revealed is another curve followed by another. The steep hillsides are dotted with houses, some abandoned, their massive earthen walls slowly crumbling, and the occasional white-washed temple. Suddenly the road drops to a modern expressway on the valley floor, whisking you through paddy fields to the capital of one of the world’s most intriguing countries. Established as the capital in 1961, Thimphu has a youthful exuberance that constantly challenges the country’s conservatism and proud tradition. The ever-present juxtaposition of old and new is just one of its appealing qualities. Crimson-robed monks, Indian labourers, gho- and kira-clad professionals and camera-wielding tourists all ply the pot-holed pavements, skirt packs of sleeping dogs, and spin the prayer wheels of Clocktower Square, and nobody, it seems, is in a hurry. Thimphu is the world’s only capital without traffic lights. A set was installed, but the residents complained that it was impersonal, and so gesticulating, white-gloved police continue to direct the ever-increasing traffic. As well as being a classic Bhutanese anachronism, it may well be the city’s most photographed spectacle. Thimphu offers the best opportunity to do your own thing. It’s relaxed, friendly a nd pretty informal, and is most rewarding if you can be the same.

HIGHLIGHTS 

Savour the serenity of the powerful yet peaceful architecture of Trashi Chhoe Dzong (p101)



Immerse yourself in the pungent, colourful, bustling weekend market (p103) – a gastronomic wonderland and gaudy artefact bazaar



Stretch your legs and climb through whispering pines to the peaceful solitude of either Tango Goemba or Cheri Goemba (p115)



Bend your elbow at one of Thimphu’s friendly bars, such as Om Bar (p112), and meet the locals over momos and beer



Marvel at the skill and artistry of Bhutanese youth at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (p104)



Spot an incongruous takin at the Motithang Takin Preserve (p106)



ELEVATION: 2320M



POPULATION: 98,676

Cheri Goemba

National Institute for Zorig Chusum Motithang

Tango Goemba

Trashi Chhoe Dzong

Weekend Market Om Bar



TELEPHONE CODE: 02

© Lonely Planet Publications AROUND THIMPHU •• South of Thimphu

lonelyplanet.com

paintings of mandalas and the guardians of the four directions adorn the gorikha (porch). During its construction Simtokha Dzong was attacked by a coalition of Tibetans and five Bhutanese lamas who were opposed to the Zhabdrung’s rule. The attack was repelled and the leader of the coalition, Palden Lama, was killed. In 1630 the Tibetans again attacked and took control of the dzong. The Zhabdrung regained control when the main building caught fire and the roof collapsed,

killing the invaders. Descriptions of the original Simtokha Dzong were provided by the two Portuguese Jesuit priests who visited here in 1629 on their way to Tibet. Expansion and restoration of the dzong was performed by the third Druk Desi, Mingyur Tenpa, in the 1670s after Tibetan invaders attacked it in 1630. It has been enlarged and restored many times since, most recently by a Japanese team of builders and architects.

118

U H P M I H T

lonelyplanet.com

119



lonelyplanet.com

119

Western Bhutan Whether you arrive by air at Paro or by road at Phuentsholing, your first impression of Bhutan is one of stepping into a world that you thought existed only in storybooks or your imagination. Vertical prayer flags flutter in the breeze and men dressed in a traditional gho (tunic) and Argyle socks stroll past yellow-roofed shrines and wooden slate-roofed houses. It soon becomes clear that you are well off the beaten path of mass tourism. As with the rest of country, western Bhutan is a collection of valleys. The remote Haa valley in the far west is separated from the Paro valley by the 3810m Cheli La. The relatively built-up Thimphu valley to the east is divided from the historical centres of Punakha and Wangdue Phodrang by the 3140m Dochu La. East of here the rugged Black Mountain range forms an even greater barrier that separates western Bhutan from the rest of the country. North of here, the upper valleys are trekking territory, leading to the sacred peak of Jhomolhari, the Tibetan border and the fascinating and remote regions of Laya and Gasa. To the south are the lush foothills and the all-important road to the Indian border at Phuentsholing. This is the region of Bhutan that most tourists see a nd for good reason. It’s t he hea rtland of the Drukpa people, home to the only airport, the capital and the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom. Whether it’s the beginning of your trip or the all of your trip, it’s a spectacular introduction to a magical land. HIGHLIGHTS 

Visit the spectacular dzongs of Paro (p122), Wangdue Phodrang (p149) and Punakha (p145).



Admire the rhododendrons and mountain views on an early-morning drive to the Dochu La (p134)



Immerse yourself in Bhutanese culture and history at Paro’s National Museum (p124)



Spot black-necked cranes or just do some great hiking in the remote Phobjikha valley (p152)



Hike uphill to the dramatic cliff-hanging Tiger’s Nest (p128), Bhutan’s most famous sight



Make a pilgrimage to the Kyichu Lhakhang (p127), one of Bhutan’s oldest and most beautiful temples



Explore little-visited monasteries and hermitages in the Haa valley (p133)



Be blessed with a 10-inch penis, if only for a day, at Chimi Lhakhang (p145), the monastery of the Divine Madman!

Punakha Chimi Lhakang Wangdue Phodrang

Tiger's Nest Kyichu Lhakhang Paro Haa Valley

Dochu La

Phobjikha Valley

W E S T E R N B H U T A N


lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

161



lonelyplanet.com

181

Eastern Bhutan Even though it is the most densely populated region, eastern Bhutan remains the kingdom’s hinterland. Roads reach the major towns, but most settlements are hidden in the steep hillsides of remote and isolated valleys, some of which are home to minority ethnic groups comprising less than 1000 people. The dominant language he re is Shar chop (language of the e ast), alt hough there are many local languages and dialects. Sharchop is different enough from Dzongkha that people from eastern and western Bhutan usually have to use English or Nepali to communicate. If you visit a particularly remote village your guide may have to resort to sign language. Eastern Bhutanese love their home-brewed arra (rice wine) and locally grown green chillies. Because of the slash-and-burn system of shifting cultivation called tseri, the forest cover at lower elevations is less extensive than in other parts of Bhutan. The lower altitudes mean that spring and summer here are hot, humid and sweaty. The general quali ty of hotels, food and serv ice in eastern Bhuta n is lower than it i s in Thimphu and Paro. Don’t venture into this part of the kingdom unless you have a sense of humour and are able to take a possible lack of hot water and Western toilets in your stride. It’s a looong drive out to the far east. The good news for tourists is that the border crossing at Samdrup Jongkhar is once again open to foreigners (though for exit only), so you can avoid the winding three-day drive back to Thimphu, with Guwahati and direct flights to Bangkok just a two-hour drive away. E A S T E R N

HIGHLIGHTS Visit Trashigang (p190), one of the most attractive and lively towns in Bhutan

 

Fasten your seatbelt for the dramatic cliff-hugging road over the 3750m Thrumshing La (p184)



Take the picturesque drive up to Lhuentse Dzong (p187) in the remote and ancient region of Kurtoe



Watch some of Bhutan’s finest cloth being woven at the remote and traditional weaving village of Khoma (p188)



Check your sin levels at the picturesque pilgrimage spot of Gom Kora (p193)



Walk around the impressive Chorten Kora and watch handicrafts made at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum in remote Trashi Yangtse (p195)

Khoma Lhuentse Dzong

Thrumshing La

Trashi Yangtse Gom Kora Trashigang

B H U T A N


G E T T I N G A R OU OU N D • • L o c a l T r a n s p o r t

world, and we don’t recommend it, but if you do have to hitch because of a breakdown, Bhutan is about as safe a place as you could find.

LOCAL TRANSPORT Taxi

There are taxis in Phuentsholing and Thimphu. Taxis have meters, but drivers rarely use them. For long-distance trips they operate on a flat rate that is rarely open to negotiation. T R O P S N A R T

lonelyplanet.com

You should expect to pay Nu 50 for a local trip within Thimphu, Nu 700 for a full day and Nu 1200 (Maruti) to Nu 2000 (Mahindra Jeep or Bolero) from Thimphu to Phuentsholing. If you are travelling between Thimphu and Phuentsholing, look for a taxi that is from the place to which you want to go (vehicles with BT-2 numberplates are from Phuentsholing and those with BT-1 numberplates are from Thimphu or Paro) – you may be able to negotiate a lower price.

lonelyplanet.com

267


LANGUAGE •• Trekking & Country Life

trail village

lam/kanglam ü

Animals & Crops bird, chicken cow dog horse pig

E G A U G N A L

bja ba rochi/chi ta phap

water buffalo yak (male/female) barley buckwheat corn (maize) millet standing rice husked rice wheat

lonelyplanet.com

mahe yâ/jim nâ bjô gäza/gesasip membja bjâ chum kâ

lonelyplanet.com

279

370978952-Lonely-Planet-Bhutan-pdf.pdf

Recommend Documents