home made toys

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ROOM

HOME-MADE TOYS

FOR GIRLS AND BOYS

BOOKS BY 8vo

Cloth.

A.

NE ELY HALL

Illustrated with f undreds of full-pagt

and working drawings by the author and Norman P. Hall

THE BOY CRAFTSMAN

(

Price net $

1

.60

I

Postpaid

1

.82

.

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS

THE HANDY BOY

LOT HROP, LEE & SHEPA RD

Price net $ 2 °° \ (

Postpaid

<

Price net $ 1.60

(

Postpaid

CO.,

2.25

1.82

BOSTON

CHAPTER

I

Home-made Windmills

—

—

The Paper Pinwheel The Pinion-wheel Windmill To mount the The Four-blade Windmill To mount the Windmill The Hub— The Eight Blades The The Eight-blade Windmill The Tail To pivot the Windmill To operate a Toy JumpShaft Pinion-wheel

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

ing-Jack.

CHAPTER

II

Home-made Kites

How

—

—

—

Framing the Sticks Covermake a Malay The Sticks Flying-line The BoxAttaching the Bridle Framework Covering for the End The Side Frames The Kite Sticks kite A Good Hand Assembling the Kite Attaching the Bridle Cells A Body Kite-reel. Kite-reel to

—

ing the

—

— —

— —

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER

III

A Home-made Model Aeroplane

—

The Most Successful Type of Accuracy in Model Construction The Thrust Bearings— The Bow Hooks Model The Fuselage HowThe Propellers The Fin The Elevator The Main Plane

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

The PropellerThe Propeller Blank How the The Home-made Motor-winder Motors Position Care in winding the Motors Egg-beater winds the Motors to take for launching a Model.

to

prepare the Propellers

shafts

— The

—

—

CHAPTER A Home-made Toy

— —

IV

Motor-boat

Hull Bottom — The Sides — The Deck — The — The Propeller-shaft— The Bearing Plate — The Thrust Bearing — The Rubber-band Motor — To wind the Motor— How

How

operated

— The

Propeller

to

elaborate

upon the Design and Construction. vii

CONTENTS

viii

CHAPTER V

PAGE

Home-made Toy Water-motors

A

Varnish-can Water-motor

— The

Eight Paddles

— The

38

— The Case — The Water- motor Wheel Wheel

Shaft

— An

Outlet—

A

Pulley-

— Pulley-wheels — Connecting up the Water-motor — Another Water-motor — The Water-motor Wheel — The Wheel Supports — To mount the Wheel — The Pulley Wheel — The Water-motor Case.

belt

CHAPTER

VI

A Home-made Toy Railway

47

— Supports for Trolley-line — Power for Operating — Railway — Tracks — The Cars — A Gondola Car — A Street Car — Other Cars — Operation of the Railway — A Station. The

Trolley-line

CHAPTER

VII

Home-made Toy Elevators

A Toy

59

Elevator that appears Magical in

its

— Adapting — The Elevator Counter-balance —

Operation

Building — Floors — Toy — The Elevator Guides — The Cables — The The Smoke-stack — The Overhead Pulleys — How the Car operates — — To make the Car Rise — A Simple Control — Two Levers — An Outdoor Elevator —'The Guide Supports — The Car — The Cable — The Lowering Guides — The Counter-balance — The

Elevator to

Partitions

Office

Car

Ballast

Lifting

Cable.

CHAPTER

VIII

.71

Home-made Mechanical Toys Whirligig

—

— — Toy — To make

A Buzz-saw Mechanical Toys A Toy The Clog-dancer Operating the Whirligig

The Simple Construction Jumping-Jack

—A

of Small

Cricket-rattle

— — The Turtle

the

Turtle Crawl.

CHAPTER Home-made Tops Top Spinning on Rug-tack Top

—A

Shoe-polish Can

How

the

79 the South Sea Islands

Spool Top

Top

Top Spins

IX

—A

—A

Spiral

— Clock Wheel Tops — A

—A —

Spinning Top Race-track 'A Merry-go-round Top

Top

—

— Horses and Riders — A Flag.

CONTENTS

ix

CHAPTER X

PAGE

Home-made Clockwork Toys The Necessary

Materials

— How

prepare the Clockwork

to

— The

88

— — The Tent-poles — The — — — — Girl Riders — The Boy Riders — The Platform — How operate the Merry-go-round — Other Animals — A Miniature Ferris Wheel — The Standard — The Clockwork Motor — The Station Platform — The Wheel — Rims — Hubs — Spokes — Assembling the Wheel — The Cars — Axles — How mount the Wheel — The Platform Steps — The "Flying Airships — The Standard — The Mast — The Cars — Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork — An Electric Motor — An Automobile — The Frame — The Belt — Testing the Machine — The Cardboard Sides — The Wheels — The Mud-guards — The Lamps — The Steering-wheel — The Horn — The Brake — The Chauffeur — Painting the Machine — An Automobile Delivery Wagon — The Cardboard Sides — The Wheels — Other Portions — Painting the Wagon — A Clockwork Railway. Merry-go-round The Standard The Tent The Sleighs Horses The Shafts The to

to "

CHAPTER Home-made Electrical Toys An Electro-magnet Derrick

XI 117

— The Electro-magnet — A Home-made

— The Derrick — The Windlass —-The Hoisting Cables — How Works — A Toy Shocking Machine — The Induction-coil — The Primary-coil — The Secondary-coil — The Handles — An rupter — How the Interrupter Works — A Toy Electric Motor Truck — The Wheels — The Upper Shaft — The Belts — The Battery — The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid — Amalgamating a Zinc Pencil — The Seat and Canopy-top — The Seat-arms — The Steering-wheel — The Levers. Switch

the Derrick

Inter-

CHAPTER

XII

A Home-made Toy Shooting Gallery

— The

The Framework The Card-shooting

Pistol

140

Circular Target

— How

to

— The

Animal Targets

number the Targets

— How

— to

shoot at the Targets.

CHAPTER A Home-made

XIII

Doll-house

145

— The Elevator-shaft — The Side Walls — The Rear Wall — The Front Wall — The Windows— The Roof— The Chimney — An Elevator — The Car— The Guide-wires — The Pulleys — The Chain Cable — The The

Building Material

— The

Floor

Plans— The

Partitions

CONTENTS

x

— The

— Spring-catches — The Stairway — Stringers — Treads and Risers — Newel-posts — Hand-rails — Balusters — The Front Steps — The Window Openings — The Window Glass — The Front and Rear Doors — The Outside Trimmings — The Interior Woodwork — Setting the Nail-heads — Painting. Counter-balance

PAGE

Gable-ends

CHAPTER XIV Furnishing the Home-made Doll-house The Walls and Ceiling Hardwood Floors Carpets Window-shades Lace Curtains Portieres Pictures corner Buying Furnishings Making Furniture. '

—

—

—

— Rugs — — A Cosey-

—

—

—

—

156

CHAPTER XV A Home-made Toy

Stable

160

—

—

—

Dimensions of Stable The First Story -The Roof The GableThe Stall Partitions end The Feed-troughs Windows Ladder to Hay- loft Feed-hoist The Drop-front A Stable Door PaintIf you prefer a Garage. ing

— —

—

—

—

—

—

CHAPTER XVI A Home-made Doll Apartment Building A New Idea in Doll-houses — How the Three

— —

......

165

Units are arranged to

—

form a Three-story Building or Six-room Apartment Building Material The Room Dimensions The First Story Unit The Second Story Unit -The Third Story Unit The Door and Window Openings The Bay Windows The Joints between the Units The Roof Construction The Chimney The Windows The Front Door

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

— — The Interior Trim — A Fireplace —'Lighting Fixtures — Decorating — Painting the Outside Walls.

The

Inside

—

—

—

Doorways

CHAPTER

XVII

Home-made Doll Furniture

174

— Material — Drawing the Patterns and Enlarging by Squares — The Chairs — The Settee — Tables — A Dining-room Table — A Sideboard — A Mirror — The Grandfather's Clock — Kitchen Furniture —I e Beds — The Dresser — A Wash-stand — Finishing. Metal Furniture

— Miniature

Mission Furniture

Other Cigar-box Furniture

A

Folding-bed

— A Dresser — A

187

Wardrobe.

Figs. 287

and

288.

An Auto Delivery- Wagon Built (Seepage 192.)

of Cigar-Boxes.

HOME-MADE TOYS

FOR GIRLS AND BOYS Wbodenand Cardboard Toys, Mechanical and Eleetr ical Toys

By ANeelyHall Author of"The Boy Craftsman, "Handicraft for Handy Boys, 'The handy Boy "Etc. With over three hundred illustrations andworkbio-orawingrl w
BOSTON

LOTHROP, LEE &• SHEPARD

CO.

5

Copyright, 1915, by

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD COMPANY Published, August, 191

All rights reserved

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS

THE HEW

:

'PUBLIC LIE, A8TOR, LENOX AND ^TILOEN FOUNDATIONS.

J. 8.

NottaooU $Tt88 Cushing Co. —Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood. Mass., U.S.A.

110

H Constructive ideas expel destructive ideas from the juvenile mind.

INTRODUCTORY NOTES Through newspaper

the author's handicraft volumes, and magazine and

articles,

thousands of boys and

make

own

girls

who never

real-

have succeeded in constructing models which would do credit to Santa Claus' master

ized they could

their

toys,

toy-makers.

The

success of this

new home

industry has suggested the

need of a volume devoted entirely to toy-making, and in Homemade Toys for Girls and Boys the author has brought together a large number of the toy ideas from his former handicraft volumes, and from his articles published in the Ladies' Home Journal, Woman's Home Companion, Good Housekeeping, the Boys' Magazine, and other publications, and he believes that as collected and arranged the material will be found a veritable gold-mine of toy-making information. Go to any toy store and price the toys similar to those described within these covers, then estimate if you can how much the other toys you do not find would cost if manufactured, and you, will, discover, that one hundred dollars would not cover their value. is

>

On£

splendid thing about these home-made toys them require little more than the

that the rreater part of

pick-up matenul' found at home.

Few boys and

girls are

given

-assortment of toys at a time, yet any one can own a collection of this value who is willing to spend the time necessary to follow the instructions given in this book. a one .hundred

d'olJar

Probably, though, some of the toys will be wanted now, and the others one, two or three seasons hence, because, you see,

the book

is

an all-the-year-round handy book with suggestions Some of the toys will be of especial interest

for every season.

to boys, yet girls

them

also.

who

like

what boys

like will

enjoy making

INTRODUCTORY NOTES

vi

Home-made

toys are generally longer lived than store toys

because the boy or

girl

who expends

amount

a certain

of effort

producing gives them better care. Home-made toys have a greater value than boughten ones because there is as much fun making them as playing with them.

Doing something

interesting, getting satisfying results out of the work, putting

an idea into tangible form, and having a toy to show of which it

can be

said, "

I

made

this all myself,"

— these are the factors

toy-making so fascinating to boys and girls. It is no less a child's nature to want to do that which is most pleasing to him, than an adult's, so why not encourage

in

wholesome

toy-making to which the child takes duck takes to water ? It trains the mind to think clearly, the hands to work cleverly, replaces destructive thoughts with constructive ideas, and, in making the boy or girl dependent upon himself or herself for toys, is invaluable this

activity of

as readily as a

in

developing resourcefulness.

Recognizing how easily the child's interest is attracted and held by anything of a building nature, toy manufacturers have placed scores of so-called " construction sets

"

upon the market, though excellent as these outfits are, the toys they form are merely assembled, not really mads/by'the/boy cr gfirij and much of the value of making is lost. Exactly as good models as those assembled with "construction se'cs^" cai< be made of

but,

c

-

pick-up materials, as chapters in this book'show.

In fact,

some

of the models in the manufacturers' mstrvictiou pa.r.phlets

merry-go-rounds, Ferris wheels and swings tical

—

almost iden-

with home-made models devised long ago by the author

for his readers. in

— are

Furthermore, there are many, very

Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys which

many

toys

are beyond

the limited possibilities of "construction sets."

A. N. H.

Oak

Park, Illinois,

May

31, 1915.

CONTENTS CHAPTER

xi

XVIII PAGE 191

Home-made Cigar-box Toys Material Cutting An Express-wagon — A

— — Cart — An Auto De— A Jack-in-the-box — A Round-seated Chair — A Round Center- table — A Dining-table — A Square-seated Chair — A Doll's Cradle — Finishing the Cigar-box Wood.

livery-wagon

CHAPTER XIX Home-made Spool and Cardboard Toys

196

— A Baby Carriage — A Two-wheel Cart — A Toy Merrygo-round — A Teeter-board — A Doll Swing — A Sofa — A Chair — A Square Center-table — A Round Center-table. Material

CHAPTER XX A Home-made Toy Mail-box

205

— Material for Mail-box — The Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Box — The Top — The Letter-drop — The Collection-drop — Reinforcing the Corners — Covering the Box — A Collection Schedule Card — How hang up the Mail-box — A Mail-bag — The Way Playing Postman

to

to

play Post-office.

CHAPTER XXI A Home-made

Reflectoscope

The Working Principle One The Lens Opening ment A Hood for the

— —

210

of the Reflectoscope

— Material for making

— Ventilator Holes — The Interior ArrangeVentilators — Oil Lamps are Used — Electric Light Used — How mount the Lens — Puttying Cracks — Painting the Inside of the Box — The Back Boards — The Picture Holder — How the Lens reverses Pictures — Adjustments. is

Index

.

If

If

to

215

HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS

LIST OF

(In addition to 346 text illustrations)

Figs. 287

and

An Auto

288.

192) Fig.

48.

Fig. 108.

Fig. 109.

.

.

.

.

Launching the Toy Motor-boat The Buzz-saw whizzes when you

The

built of Cigar

Delivery-wagon .

Eccentric Clog-dancer

twist the

Fig- 115.

The Crawling

Fig. 135-

A A A A

Fig 136. Fig. 137Fig. 138.

Pull the String and Jack

Turtle's Shell

Merry-go-round Clockwork Motor Ferris

is

.

|

146

J

in

Doll

.

]

Apartment

Fig. 289.

A A

Fig. 290.

The Skeleton of the Jack-in-the-box

Fig. 291.

A Round-seated Chair A Round Center-table A Dining-table A Square-seated Chair A Doll's Cradle

Fig 326.

Town

the Three Stories are arranged side by

An

Fig- 325-

76

.

Fig. 285.

Fig- 295.

| J

104

Fig. 284.

Fig. 294.

72

.

side to form a Six-room

Fig. 293-

}

J

.

.

How

Fig- 292.

34

90

Flying Airship

Fig. 244.

Fig. 220.

Fig. 221.

a Jelly-mould

FACING PAGE

]

Wheel

Fig. 243-

Fig. 161.

Frontispiece

1

The Car Completed j The Framework \ The Home-made Doll-house Interior View of Doll-house The Most Stylish Apartments

Fig. 160.

Cord

a Circus in Himself

is

Fig. 114.

no.

•

....

jumps comically Whirling the Cricket-rattle makes it Chirp

Fig.

Boxes (Page

.

•

Express-wagon

Cart

.

.

.

.

166 ) J

\

/

Jack-in-the-box

192 *

.

.

.

.

)

.

|

. |

.

.

.

The Home-made Mail-box strapped to the Face of a Door The Home-made Mail-box strapped to a Chair-back

194-195

HOME-MADE TOYS

FOR GIRLS AND BOYS

HOME-MADE TOYS

FOR GIRLS AND BOYS

No more

mechanical toy interesting to

windmill.

material

more

make, nor

interesting to

in operation, than a miniature

very simple toy to construct, and the

It is a

for

can

one

is

watch

making

usually

be

found at hand, which

two reasons why nearly every boy and

are

girl at

one time or an-

other builds one.

The Paper Pinwheel shown in Fig. i is one best

whirlers

ever devised.

A slight

of

the

forward thrust of the

Fig.

i.

— The

Paper Pinwheel

is

the Simplest

Pinwheel to Make.

handle upon which it is mounted starts stick

it

in motion,

and when you run

with the stick extended in front of you

it

whirls at

a

merry speed.

A

piece of paper 8 or 10 inches square

pinwheel.

Fold

this

piece

of

paper

is

needed for the

diagonally from

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

GIRLS

AND BOYS

Then open

corner to corner, both ways.

the paper, and

with a pair of scissors cut along diagonal

the

from

creases,

the

corners to within J inch of the Next, fold corcenter (Fig. 2).

and

ners A, B, C, center, as

shown

D

over to the

in Fig. 3, run a

pin through the corners and through the center of the sheet Fig.

2.

—

Diagram

Paper

for

f

paper, drive the point of this

pin

into

and the pinwheel

handle,

will

The Pinion-Wheel Windmill cardboard or

ameter

A

tin.

the

end

the

of

stick

be completed.

in Fig. 4

may

be

made

of

circular piece 10 or 12 inches in di-

required.

is

After marking out the outer edge with

a compass, describe

an

inner

about side of

two

inch

1

it

circle

;

in-

then draw

through

lines

the center at right angles to each other,

and another pair an angle

of 45 de-

grees tO These

at

these.

lines are

Fig.

3.

— How the Paper Pinwheel

shown by the heavy f

is

Folded.

radial lines in Fig.

5.

HOME-MADE WINDMILLS One-half inch from each of these lines draw a parallel line,

by

as indicated

dotted lines in Fig.

The next thing is

5.

do

to

to cut out the disk,

and cut along the heavy

lines

far as the

lines

shown gram

the

in (Fig.

as

just

5),

are dia-

and

SPOOL HUB

then to bend up the

blades thus separated, of

to

an angle

Fig. 4.

— A Pinion- Wheel Windmill.

about 45 degrees, bending on the second

set of radial

lines (dotted lines in Fig. 5).

You had better make a cardboard pinion-wheel first,

then a tin one after-

wards, as cardboard

is

so

much easier to cut. A pair of heavy shears

will

be neces-

sary for cutting a tin wheel,

and a cold

chisel for separat-

ing the edges of the blades. Fig.

Diagram

for

Pinion- Wheel

Windmill.

To Mount Wheel drive

the a

Pinion-

long

nail

through the center, through the hole in a spool, and into the

end

of a stick.

Then

nail the stick to a post or a fence top.

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

GIRLS

The Four-blade Windmill shown and 1 inch thick

inches in diameter

in Fig. 6 has a

hub 4

This should

(Fig. 7).

Draw two

be cut out of hard wood.

AND BOYS

lines across

one

face,

through the center, and at right angles to each other.

Then carry

these lines across the edge of the block, not

at right angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees.

Saw along these lines depth of if The ends of inches. to a

the windmill blades are to

fit

these

in

slots.

Cut the blades equal

size,

long,

5

on

and

the

of

9 inches

inches wide

wide

edge,

i| inches wide

on the narrow edge, Fig. 6. Fig.

7.

Fig.

8.

— A Four-blade Windmill. — Hub. — How to Slot End Shaft of

position, pivot the

hub

and tail

to

which the hub

slotted with a

may

for Tail.

end

6).

With the blades

in

of the windmill shaft,

The end

pivoted

is

opposite

whittled

size as the blades,

to

round,

to receive a tail (Fig. 8).

be of the same

shown shorter

Mount

saw

is

in

the slots with nails.

to the

a stick 20 inches long (Fig. that

and fasten them

though

The it

is

in the illustration.

the Windmill

upon a

post, pivoting its shaft at

HOME-MADE WINDMILLS balancing

the

center

with

a

and the windmill

the pivot,

or

nail

enough so the shaft

hole large

will

will

5

Bore a

screw.

turn

upon

freely

thus keep headed into

the wind.

The Eight-blade Windmill in Fig. 9 has a spool hub 10), and blades made of cigar-box wood, shingles, tin, or cardboard (Fig. 11). You will see by Figs. 10 and (Fig.

Fig.

9.

— An Eight-blade Windmill.

11 that the blades are nailed to the side of short sticks,

and the

the

this

shaft

shaft

(Figs. 12

For the at

stick

(Fig.

slotted

is

and

are

The hub

hub.

the spool of

sticks

driven into turns 12),

to

holes

spoke

bored in

on the rounded end

and the square end

receive

the

fan-shaped

of tail

13).

Hub

use a large ribbon-spool.

any drygoods

store.

You can

get one

Locate eight holes around the

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

AND BOYS

GIRLS

center of the spool at equal distances from one another,

and bore these with a gimlet

or bit, or cut

them with the

small blade of your jack-knife.

Cut the Eight Blades 6 inches long, their

inches wide on

5

wide edge, and ij inches wide on their narrow edge.

Prepare the hub sticks about § inch by f inch by 4§ inches Fig. 11

Washer

—-^

Fig. 12

Fig. 10

Fig. 10.

— Spool Hub.

Fig. 12.

to

— Shaft. fit

Fig. 13.

— Tail.

hub

(Fig.

in the

Fasten the blades to the spokes with nails long

enough side.

— Blades.

and whittle one end pointed

in size, 11).

Fig. ii.

to drive

through the spokes and clinch on the under

Glue the spokes in the hub

holes, turning

them

so

the blades will stand at about the angle shown.

J

The Shaft should be made of a hard wood stick about inch by i^ inches by 30 inches in size. Cut the round

end small enough so the hub

will turn freely

on

it,

and

HOME-MADE WINDMILLS punch a small hole through through to hold the hub in

it

so a brad

may

Cut the

place.

be driven

slot in the

square end with a saw.

Cut the Tail

shape shown in Fig.

of the

13.

Pivot the Windmill upon the top of a post support, in the

manner

same

as

directed

for

the other windmills.

Figure 14 shows mill

may

how

the toy wind-

be rigged up

To Operate a Toy Jumping- Jack, by supporting the jumping-jack on a bracket, and connecting its string

— How the Windmill may be Rigged up to Operate a Toy Jumping-Jack.

Fig. 14.

hub

to the

of the windmill.

jack like the one in Fig.

shown

in Fig.

A

to B,

of

B

and

(Fig.

of the bracket

(A, Figs.

and the crosspiece (B)

nail the

15).

details of

which are

113.

Cut the upright 14 inches long,

You can make your jumpingno, the

jumping-jack at

7

14

and

inches long.

its

15)

Nail

center to the end

Fasten the triangular block (C) to the

6


8

lower end of A, and then nail both

A

the

and

C

to the edge

a

point

that will bring the

string

of

of the trifle

shaft

at

jumping-jack

a

beyond the windmill

blades. Fig.

1

Fasten a small stick with a brad driven in one end, in notches cut in the

hub's

flanges

(Fig.

16),

and connect the brad and Fig. 15

Fig

IS-

— How

the

Jumping-jack

Supported. Fig. 16.

volves

Spool Hub.

it

will

in Figs. 14

and

is

Jack's string with a piece of

wire or strong

Then

operate the toy in the 15.

string.

as the windmill

re-

manner indicated

CHAPTER

II

HOME-MADE KITES The Malay

tailless kite is

kind ever invented.

It will fly in

variety could not withstand,

Fig. 17.

light to carry

probably the most practical

and

a wind that the

it will fly

tail

in a breeze too

— A Malay Tailless Kite.

up most other forms

of kites.

It is also a

strong pulling kite, and can be used for sending aloft lanterns

and

flags.

For the purpose of

lifting,

the pulling

strength can be doubled by flying two Malays in tandem.

How

to

Make

a Malay.

Figure 17 shows a Malay kite

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

TO

AND BOYS

GIRLS

in flight, Fig. 18 a detail of the completed kite, Fig. 19

the completed framework, and Figs. 20, 21, and 22 the details for preparing the

The

frame

sticks.

This kite has a vertical stick and a bow-

Sticks.

each of which should be 40 inches long, about f inch wide, and | inch thick, for a kite of medium size. stick,

In the cutting of the sticks

lies

making a

half the secret of

kite that will fly successfully.

Drive a small

nail or

large tack into each end

the

of

two

sticks,

to

fasten the framing-

and

string to (Figs. 20 21),

and notch the side

edges of the bow-stick near each end for the

attachment Fig. 18.

Completed Malay Kite with

Bell}

inches

long

is

the

important. distance

should be 6 inches the bow-string, and

Framing the

(Fig.

tie it

Sticks.

bow-

and 22). The amount to bend

Band Attached.

the bow-stick

of the

string (Figs. 21

For a kite with a bow 40

between the string and 21).

stick

Use a strong twine for

securely to the notched ends.

Fasten the bow-stick at

center to the vertical stick, placing

it

4 inches

its

exact

down from

the top of the vertical stick, as indicated in Fig. 19.

Drive

a couple of brads through the two sticks to hold them

HOME-MADE KITES and then

together,

ii

reinforce the connection

by wrapping

the joint with strong linen thread, crossing the thread in

manner shown.

the

When

the two sticks have been joined, connect their

ends with the framing-string. stick to stick, of the

may

end

and

nails,

tie

Stretch this string from

securely to the end nails.

Instead

the sticks

MAKE THIS

be notched to receive

DISTANCE INCHES

the framing-string, but the nails are

more

satisfactory

because the string can be tied fast to

not

them and

will

slip.

Covering the FrameThe strong lightweight brown wrapping-

work.

paper

now

generally

so

used makes an covering

work.

for

A

excellent

the

frameFig. 19.

— Framework of Malay Kite.

few sheets can

You

be purchased at a near-by store for the purpose. will likely

make one

have to paste together two or more sheets to large enough.

The paper should be placed on

the outer face of the bow-stick, and should be allowed

a

little

fullness instead of being

hexagonal the

tail

framing-string

a kite.

Lap

kites.

in

the

stretched

tight

as

on

the edges of the paper over

ordinary

way

of

covering

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

12

GIRLS

AND BOYS

Attach the Bridle at the intersection of the bow-stick

and

vertical stick,

stick (Fig.

1

8),

and at the lower end

and make

held over to one side

it

of the vertical

will reach to the

end

of the

indicated in Fig. Nail

when

of the right length so

it

Nail-**

bow, as Tie

18.

the flying line securely at

o o

the point

A

(Fig. 18)

;

then

the kite will be ready for

cn

its

hj Fig. 22

x

maiden

21

The kind of cord which a mason uses for his plumb-lines is splendid for flying the If you canMalay kite. not get some balls of this, be certain that what you

O MAKE -THIS DISTANCE

o h

6 -INCHES

_i

< o h 01 LU

>

do get can be because

CJ

Fig. 22.

relied upon,

provoking to

which you have

taken a great deal of pains

Fig. 20

Fig. 2i.

is

it

lose a kite

NAfLFig. 20.

flight.

Flying-Line.

— Detail of Vertical Stick. — Detail of Bow-Stick. — Detail of End of Bow-Stick.

making, through the

in

breaking of the flying

The Box-Kite. more pretentious

kites,

none

is

line.

Of the

popular as the rec-

as

tangular box-kite. Box-kites sizes,

may

number pay any boy

be purchased ready-made

but they are not cheap, and

take the time necessary to

make

it

will

one.

in a

of

While

their con-

to

HOME-MADE KITES struction requires considerable

plane type of kite,

it is

not

13

more work than the

single-

difficult.

Figures 23 and 24 show a kite of scientifically developed Pine, spruce,

proportions.

and whitewood are the best

materials for

The Kite any

Sticks,

though

light-weight

strong,

wood of straight grain may be used if easier to obtain.

If

you

near

live

a lumber yard or planingmill, possibly

you can get

you

strips of just the size

from

require

waste

the

heap, for the mere asking, or for a few cents get

them

ripped out of a board. not,

you

enough self

will find it

to cut

If

easy

them your-

with a sharp rip-saw.

The Side Frames.

Cut

the four horizontal sticks §

inch

thick

and

Fig. 23.

by 36 inches long

wide,

— Raising the Box-Kite.

f inch

(A, Fig.

25),

and the four up-

right connecting sticks (B, Fig. 25) J inch thick, \ inch

wide,

and 10 inches

long.

Tack the upright

sticks to the

horizontal ones 6 inches from the ends of the latter, as

shown

in Fig.

25, using slender

brads for the purpose,

B HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

14

GIRLS

AND BOYS

and clinching the projecting ends. In fastening these be careful to set sticks

B

sticks,

at right angles to sticks A.

— The Box-Kite.

Fig. 24.

After fastening together the side-frame sticks as shown in Fig. 25, lay

them

aside until

you have prepared

f—A '

t

—

1

10"

*

t

Bs-A

r

3 6" Fig. 25.

The Covering

— Make Two Side Frames

for the

End

Cells.

A

like this.

light-weight muslin

or tough paper should be used for this material.

cloth will do

if

you give

it

Cheese-

a coat of thin varnish to

fill

up

HOME-MADE KITES

15

and make it air-tight, after it has been put on. The light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so commonly the pores

used

good covering material.

is

The

cell

wide and

hemmed

bands 5 feet

for the kite illustrated should be 10 inches

9 inches long.

If of cloth,

they should be

along each edge to prevent raveling and to

a firm edge.

If of

make

paper, the edges should be folded over

a light framing-cord

Fig. 26.

Sew together

and pasted.

— Cross-Section

the ends of

of the Box-Kite.

the cloth bands, or paste the ends of the paper bands, lap-

ping them so the measurement around the inside will be exactly

5

feet 8 inches, the

proper measurement around

the sticks of the finished kite.

Assembling the Kite.

Slip

the bands over the side

frames, spread the frames to their fullest extent,

them

in this position

porarily between

by means

of sticks

upright sticks B.

proper length for the diagonal braces sticks should be

and hold

sprung

in

Then measure

C

notched at their ends to

(Fig. 26). fit

temthe

These

over the sticks


i6

A, as shown in Fig.

they will be slightly this

way

and they should be a trifle long so bow-shaped when put in place. In

27,

the frames will keep the cloth or paper bands

stretched tight.

The notched ends of the diagonals should be lashed with thread to keep them from splitting. Lashings of thread around the frame sticks A, as shown in Figs. 25 and 27, will keep the ends of the braces from slipping away from the uprights B, which

the

is

proper position for them.

Bind the braces together at their centers with thread,

shown

as

A^n/,/.#

in Figs. 24

Coat

26.

the

and

lashings

with glue after winding

them, and the thread

will

Detail of Diagonal Braces.

hold

The

its

position better.

cloth or paper bands should be fastened to each hori-

zontal frame stick with two tacks placed near the edges of

the bands.

There are several methods

of

Attaching the Bridle, but that shown in generally considered the most satisfactory. kite

The

is

Fig.

24

is

Of course, the

flown other side up, with the bridle underneath.

three-point attachment has cords fastened at the

two outer corners of the outer

of

one

cell,

and a

edge of the other

third cord to the center

cell

;

and the four-point

attachment has cords attached at the four outer corners

HOME-MADE KITES The ends

of the kite.

17

of the bridle should

be brought

together and tied at a distance of about 3 feet from the It is a

kite.

work

good plan to connect the ends

to a fancy-

ring.

A Good Hand Kite-Reel that can be held in one hand and operated by the other size

is

shown

in

Fig. 28.

Get a

J-lb.

baking-powder can for the winding-spool, locate the

center of the cover and bottom end,

Fig.

cut a hole

Then

Kite-Reel.

inch in diameter through each (Fig.

1

cut two

spool flanges.

A Good Hand

2

and with a can-opener

wooden These

29).

disks 5 inches in diameter for the

may

be cut out of thin wood.

If

you

do not wish to take the trouble to cut them round, just

saw

off

the four corners diagonally,

octagonal.

making the

pieces

Bore a i-inch hole through the center

of

Tack the can cover to the exact center of as shown in Fig. 30, and the can to the exact the other. Then fit the cover on the can, and

each piece.

one disk, center of

glue a strip of cloth or heavy paper around the joint to

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

i8

keep the cover from working

GIRLS

off,

AND BOYS

and the spool

will

be

piece

of

completed.

The

axle

upon which the spool turns

broom-handle 10 inches or so

is

a

Bore

in length (Fig. 30).

Fig. 29

Figs. 29

two holes through the spool in pins.

its

and

30.

— Details of Hand Kite- Reel.

in the positions

it

proper place.

shown, for pins to keep

Wooden pegs can be

cut for

For a winding handle, pivot a spool on the

right-

The inner shown in Fig.

flange

hand disk by means of the spool

handle

of a nail or screw.

may

be cut

off as

28.

HOME-MADE KITES

19

Both hands are frequently needed to haul in string quickly enough to bring a kite around into the wind, or to handle it when it pulls very strong, and then there is nothing to do but drop the hand reel upon the ground, unless you have an assistant to give

it to.

This

is

where the advan-

tage of

A Body

Kite-Reel comes

in.

With

it

strapped about the Fig. 33

Fig.

31.— A Body

Fig. 32.

Fig. 33.

waist,

it

Fig.

will

go wherever you go, and always be within easy

is

28.

made If,

similar to that of the

larger can than the

a tomato can or syrup can

wooden

hand

The

reel

spool

shown

in

however, you wish a larger winding-spool,

you can use a the

Fig. 31

Figure 31 shows one simple to make.

reach. of this

Kite-Reel.

— Detail of Axle Support. — Detail of Crank.

baking-powder can

—

— and increase the diameter of

flanges accordingly.

Instead of the spool turn-

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

20

GIRLS

AND BOYS

upon the broom-handle axle, the axle turns with the spool, so the spool must be fastened to the axle. The axle supports A (Figs. 31 and 32) should be about ing

7

inches long, 4 inches wide at the wide end, and

wide at the narrow end. ends a

trifle

Cut the holes

large so the axle will turn easily.

connecting crosspieces

B

for the axle

stick

end to

C

fit in,

inches

Cut the

of the right length so there will

about \ inch between the ends

Cut the crank

2

to receive the axle

as

of the spool

shown

be

and supports A.

in Fig. 33, bore a hole

bore another hole in the edge for

a set-screw to hold the stick in place on the axle end, and pivot a spool in place for a handle. is

If

the hole in the spool

too large for the head of the nail used for pivoting, slip

a small iron or leather washer over the

An

nail.

old belt or shawl-strap should be used for strapping

the kite-reel to your body. axle supports in Fig. 32.

A by

Fasten

this to the

nailing the strips

D

to

ends of the

them

as

shown

CHAPTER

III

A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE

Model flying,

aeronautics has become nearly as popular as kite

and

girls as well as

boys have taken to building

these unique air toys.

The model aeroplane kite

construction.

It

more work than ordinary requires more patience and

requires also

greater accuracy, because each part of the

must be made

just so, assembled just so,

just so, to produce a

model which

Of course your

of itself.

first

and

will give a

model

will

little

"

aircraft

tuned-up "

good account

probably not be

But if you do your work correctly and carefully will fly, and the experience you have acquired will make possible to turn out a more nearly perfect second model.

perfect. it it

Many

types of model aeroplanes have been devised,

but those of the simplest form of construction have made the best showing.

have been

of

The majority

of record-breaking

models

one type — a triangular framework, equipped

with two planes, and a pair of propellers operated by a pair of rubber-strand motors. this

type

is

shown

in Fig. 34,

on the following pages. of T620 feet

made

A most successful model of and described and illustrated

This model has a distance record

at the Aero Club of Illinois' aviation

22


field at Cicero,

fence of the

Chicago, where

160 acre

field.

it

flew 16 feet

beyond the

The model weighs but

ounces, has 9-inch propellers of 27 inch pitch, and

5\

is

in

every essential a speed machine.

The

part

first

is

of

make

the model to

the triangular

Fuselage, or motor

This consists

base.

of

two

side

sticks,

splines, or spars {A,

Fig. 35) of straight-

grained

white

cut

the

sions

to

pine

dimen-

marked upon

the drawing, with their

bow ends

bev-

eled

off

a

dis-

tance of

for

i\

inches,

glued together, and

Fig. 34.

— Launching a Model Aeroplane.

bound with thread. The stern ends have a spread of 8 inches,

and are braced at that distance by the separator This separator its

is

B

(Fig. 35).

fastened flatwise between sticks A, and

edges are reduced as shown in the small section draw-

ing of Fig. 37 so they will offer less resistance to the

air.

A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE This piece

is

rators C, D,

fastened between sticks

E

and

are of the sizes

of the proper length to

fit

A

n

with brads.

marked

Sepa-

in Fig. 35,

between side sticks

A

and

at the

____— — — -^ -«i-

.4— 6i

1

t

Main Plane

1

Id

i'«i" ^Stays'

STRANDS OF55"x^"RUBBEF

>-l2

Fig. 35.

1

— Plan.

1

si,

7 Fin

iS

Main IN PLANE-, Plane.

Elevator

.

1

— Side Elevation (without Rubber Motor). — Working-Drawings of Model Aeroplane Designed and Built

Fig. 36.

Figs. 35 and 36.

by Harry Wells. This Model has a record of 1620 feet made at the Aero Club of

Illinois'

Aviation Field at Cicero,

Chicago.

places indicated on the

drawing.

They

are

cut

oval-

shaped, as shown in the small section drawing in Fig. 37.

Before fastening the separators in position,

The Thrust Bearings

for the propellers,

plates for connecting the wire stays,

and the end

must be prepared.

Figure 38 shows a dimensioned detail of the thrust bearings,

and

of sticks

Fig. 37

A

shows how they are bound to the ends

with thread.

These are cut out

of brass,

bent

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

24

into the shape shown,

GIRLS

AND BOYS

and have a hole pierced through the

folded tip for the propeller-shaft to run through, another

through one end for the brad to pass through that pins stick

A

to B,

and another through the other end to fasten The small detail in Fig. 37 to.

the end of the wire stays

shows the end plates

no longer than

is

wire-stay ends.

for the wire stays.

These are made

necessary for the connecting holes for the Pierce a hole through the center of each Fig. 38

Fig. 39

^_^===J===i'

/

GRUBBER TUB

Wl RE

r;:===

^~t

RING

Fig. 37

Fig. 37.

Fig. 38.

Fig. 39.

— Detail of Fuselage and Motor the Wells Model. — Detail Thrust Bearing, Propeller-Shaft, and Connections. — Detail of Bow Hook and how Rubber Motor Connected to of

of

is

it.

plate for the brad to pass through which fastens sticks

A

bound

to

to the ends of the separators. sticks

A

The

plates are

with thread.

The Bow Hooks support the bow ends of the rubber motor, and are made upon the ends of a piece of heavy piano-wire bent V-shaped to (Fig. 39).

Bind the wire

the thread with glue to

The Main Plane has 40,

fit

over the ends of sticks

A

to the sticks with thread, coating

make

it

hold fast (Fig. 37).

a framework built as

shown

in Fig.

with the front or entering-edge, and the rear or following-

A HOME-MADE MODEL AEROPLANE edge,

made

25

white pine or other light-weight

of sticks of

ribs and tips on the ends made of No. 16 aluminum wire. The ends of the frame sticks are gauge cut away on their outer edge, to receive the ends of the wire forming the tips, and the ends of these wires, and the laps of the wire ribs, are bound in position with thread, and the

wood, and the

thread then coated with glue to hold

The shown

it

Elevator, or front plane, has a

Its entering-edge is

in Fig. 41.

following-edge, ribs,

aluminum

wire.

in position.

framework made as

and end

You

will

tips, are

notice

a stick, and

made

by

of

Fig.

its

No. 16 guage that

41

the

center ribs cross the following-edge of the frame and are

bent up in the form of a

flat loop.

This loop rests against

the under side of the fuselage, and gives the elevator

proper angle for stability (Fig. 36). to

add

tips are

its

bent up

stability.

The frames this

is

main plane and elevator are covered which may either be sewed or glued in place,

of the

with china-silk,

and

The

given a thin coat of shellac to

make

it

air-tight

The covering must be put on smoothly to reduce to a minimum what is known as skin resistance the resistance that the plane makes to the air while passing

and

taut.

through

—

it.

The main plane and elevator are held to the fuselage by means of rubber-bands slipped beneath them and over the fuselage,

and unlike the planes

of the

majority of models,

are fastened to the under side of the fuselage.

shows the approximate position

of the elevator.

Figure 36

That

of


26

the

main plane

will

vary under different

air conditions,

sometimes being placed over the separator C, and at other

B

shown in Fig. 35. Therefore, you must adjust your plane and elevator times closer to separator

this operation

is

known

of the atmosphere, until will give the

as

than

is

—

tuning — to

you

suit the condition

find the positions

machine the greatest

stability.

where they

A great factor

Fig. 42

Fig. 41

Fig.

40

Fig. 40. — Detail of the Main Plane Framework of the Wells Model. Fig. 41. — Detail of the Elevator Framework. — Detail of Fin. Fig. 42.

in the successful flight of a

model aeroplane

lies in

properly

tuning the planes, both laterally and longitudinally, and of course the planes must balance at their centers, in order to

make the machine balance properly. The Fin directly over the center of the

and

36)

is

provided for

rudder by turning is

made

of

it

stability,

slightly to

elevator (Figs. 34

and may be used as a

one side or the other.

It

No. 34 gauge sheet aluminum, cut to the form


shown in of heavy

Its vertical

Fig. 42.

wire, as

shown

is

bent around a piece

in the plan detail of Fig. 42,

the lower end of the wire

bow ends of sticks A. The Propellers are

edge

is

the most difficult

accurately cut, and

must be of identical size and pitch. The pitch of a propeller is, theoretically, the distance forward that

it

and

fastened upright between the

part of the model aeroplane to make.

They must be very

27

Glass Bead Wire shaft

Fig.

43.— The

Model

Wells

Propeller.

advances in one complete revolution.

Figure 43 shows one of the propellers of Harry Wells'

machine, which

9 inches in length

and has a 27-inch

Figure 44 shows

pitch.

How to sites,

is

Prepare the Propellers.

that

The

pair

must be oppo-

one must be of right-hand pitch and the

is,

other of left-hand pitch,

or, in

other words, the upper end

rr^si

*

A

B Fig. 44.

C

— How

D

E

F

to Prepare a 9-inch Propeller.

of the right-hand pitch propeller turns to the right,

that of the left-hand pitch propeller turns to the

viewing them from the rear.

left,

and

when


28

Step

A

up a straight-grained

consists in properly planing

block of white pine i| inches thick, 9 inches long, with its sides

The

Propeller Blank.

and ends

Draw

2

inches wide, and

straight

and

Then on

of this block at the exact center of the length.

faces line,

C and

D, lay

true, for

a line around the four faces

a distance of J inch on the centermeasuring from the edge of face B, for the thickness off

of the propeller-hub,

and draw diagonal

lines

from the upper

and lower left-hand corners of faces C and D to the end Then cut away the porof the hub center-line (Step B). Lay out tions outside of these lines, as shown in Step C. hub upon faces A and B of the block, with a J-inch diameter, and bore a small hole through the center to receive the

the propeller-shaft (Step C).

Draw

corners to the center-line of the

wood

away The next the

G

hub (Step D)

;

then cut

outside of these lines (Step E).

step (F) consists in laying out the form of the

propeller blade

and Step

diagonals from the

is

scooping out

upon

all

four sides and ends of the block,

the final one of cutting out the propeller,

its

blades concave on one side, and carving

them convex on the opposite side. A very sharp knife must be used for cutting and the work must be done slowly and carefully, because the least slip is likely to ruin the propeller. The entering-edge of each blade is the almost The ends of straight edge, and should be cut very thin. while hub should be the the blades should also be cut thin, ;

cut

away

as

much

ing the propeller.

as can safely be done without weaken-


When you have them if

29

completed cutting the propellers, place

at their centers across the edge of a knife-blade,

and

they do not balance perfectly, locate the trouble and

correct

it.

then shellac

Finish the work with fine emery-paper, and it.

Some boys

glue silk over the ends of their

propeller blades, for a distance of J inch or so, to reinforce

them and make them less likely to split. The Propeller-Shafts are made of heavy piano- wire, bent into a hook at one end (Fig. 38) to receive the rubber strands of the motor, and cut of the right length to extend through the hole in the bearing, through a glass bead,

through the propeller, and then to bend over the side of the hub (Figs. 37 and 38). shaft against the hub,

it is

By bending

over the end of the

held securely in place.

The Motors consist of twelve strands of |-inch flat rubber, each, and as these are 1 yard in length, exactly 24 yards of rubber are required. The rubber is not connected direct to the hooks on the bow and propeller-shafts, as the wire would quickly cut through the strands.

Instead,

small rings are bent out of wire, with pieces of small rubber-

tubing slipped over the wire, and the ends of the rubber strands are looped through these rings and

with thread (Fig. 39).

on and

off

The

bound

in place

wire rings are then slipped

the hooks quickly.

As

light

and heat cause

rubber to deteriorate, you must remove the motors from the machine after use, pack

keep

away

in a covered box,

and

in a cool place, in order to get the longest life possible

out of the rubber.


3°

has been found that rubber motors can be

It

much

by lubricating them with

farther

wound

glycerine.

It is

only necessary to put a few drops of the glycerine upon a clean cloth,

and rub

it

over the outside strands

Fig. 47

Fig. 45. Fig. 46.

Fig. 47.

the motors,

then wind

Fig- 40

Fig. 45

— A Home-made Motor Winder. — The Kind Egg-Beater to Use. — How the Motors are Connected

;

of

and

strands until

all

it

will

to

Winder

for

work over the surface

Winding.

of the inner

parts are covered.

Of course the rubber motors must be twisted an equal

number

of turns, in order to

same, and this

made from an taneously.

is

make

the propellers

work the

usually done with an ingenious winder

egg-beater, which winds both motors simul-


31

The Home-made Motor- Winder shown in Fig. 45 is made from a Dover egg-beater (Fig. 46). To convert the egg-beater into a winder,

it is

necessary to cut

off

the loop

ends and the center pivot wires on which the loops turn. the cut-off ends of the loops into hooks, and

Then bend punch them 45).

to

fit

The ends

the hooks

over the pivot wire ends, as before (Fig.

of the pivot wires

must be riveted

to

keep

in position.

Figure 47 shows

How

the

Egg-Beater Winds the Motors.

assistant supports the

While an

model by the propeller end, you

remove the motor rings from the hooks on the bow of the fuselage, and slip them on to the hooks of the egg-beater.

Then you turn

the crank of the winder, counting the turns

and when you have wound the motors as far as you wish, slip off the motor rings, and slip them back on to the bow hooks of the model aeroplane. Motors of models like that shown in this chapter are wound onethousand turns or more for each flight. Wind the Motors Slowly, especially after the first row of knots begin, as it puts the rubber to the least amount

as

you do

so,

by doing this. Quick winding not only strains the rubber but makes the knots form in bunches, and un-

of strain

even winding,

of course,

produces an uneven unwinding.

must be held after the motors have been them in check. Figure 34 shows The Position to Take for Launching a Model from the hand. The machine should not be thrown forward, as

The

propellers

wound,

to keep

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

32

the

movement would cause

air,

resulting in the

slight

push that

that produced

best

will start

by

AND BOYS

too great a disturbance of the

machine losing

The

ably upsetting.

GIRLS

method it off

its propellers.

its stability, is

and prob-

to give the

at a speed a

model a

trifle

under

CHAPTER A

The

HOME MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT

toy motor-boat shown in Figs. 48 and 49

by a

pelled

IV

tin propeller

Fig. 49.

is

run by a rubber-band motor.

pro-

A

— The Completed Motor-Boat.

handful of rubber-bands will cost only a few cents, and the rest of the working material can be picked

Prepare the

Bottom

up at home.

of

the Hull out of a piece of

wood it

1

inch thick, making

of the

sions

shape and dimen-

shown

careful

to

Be

in Fig. 51.

curve

edges the same.

the

side

Use a saw

for cutting out the

piece, Fig. 50.

— Stern, with Motor in Place.

then smooth up the edges

with a plane and sandpaper. off

on a bevel as

shown

The

in Fig. 52. 33

stern should be sawed


34

The Sides

of the hull (B, Figs. 52

and

53) are thin strips

Nail one to one edge of the bottom block,

2h inches wide.

then

saw

a line of the

bottom block, and

— 2 o" Fig. 51.

the

off

bow end on with the bow

— Diagram of Hull.

—

*1

the

stern

end

the

same

slant as

the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block.

on

With one

and trim off its making a neat joint

piece in position, nail on the second side ends.

you have any

If

between ends

the

of

difficulty in

bow B,

sides

take a piece of tin

from a can, bend

it

around the bow, and tack

in place

it

shown

The

Fig.

in

as 48.

stern piece (C,

Figs.

53

and

54)

should be cut next, to

fit

the

ends of the

Fig. 53

slanted sides.

The Deck (D) extends from the bow

Figs. 52 and 53.

almost to the center of the boat. taper in

may

its

— How the Hull,

Deck

Sides, Stern

and

Pieces are Assembled.

Its top surface

length and curve from side to side.

be whittled or planed to this shape.

The

Fasten

brads to the top edges of the sides of the boat.

should

it

piece

with

—

Fig. 48.

Launching the Toy Motor-Boat.

A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT

To Complete

the Boat, go over the

work

35

carefully, trim

off all

projecting edges, drive nail heads beneath the sur-

faces,

putty nail holes and cracks, and give the wood two

coats of paint of whatever color

you want

have the

to

motor-boat.

The

Propeller (£, Fig. 54)

can.

Cut a piece

ends,

and with the point

cut from the side of a tin

is

and f inch wide, round

3 inches long

of a nail pierce a hole

its

through

it

each side of the center of the length of the piece (Fig. 55). To finish the propeller, it is only necessary to take hold of the two ends and twist the piece into the shape Fig.

in

56.

The Propeller-Shaft

requires a short piece of wire with

one end bent into a hook (F, Fig.

end

shown

of this shaft

through one

56).

Stick the straight

hole in the propeller,

and

the hooked end through the other hole, then twist the

hooked end over on to the main part in Fig.

57.

Make

of the shaft, as

shown

a tight twist so the propeller will be

held perfectly rigid on the shaft.

The Bearing Plate G propeller.

Cut

it

it

54 and 58) supports

the

out of a piece of tin ij inches wide by

3 inches long, bend

and then bend

(Figs.

it

in half crosswise to give

it

lengthwise to the angle shown so

stiffness, it

will

fit

Punch two holes through the plate to the stern, and a hole

over the slanted stern of the boat. the upper end for nailing

at the lower end for the propeller-shaft to run through.

For a Thrust Bearing, propeller-shaft,

slip

a couple of beads over the

between the propeller and bearing plate

36

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS 1)

^^^^TTTT^, B

\ w^^^^^^^^^^^mzm. \U-E

Fig. 54.

— Longitudinal

Figs. 55-59. Fig. 60.

Section of Assembled Motor-Boat.

— Details of Propeller.

— Rubber-Band Motor.

;

A HOME-MADE TOY MOTOR-BOAT

37

Probably you can find glass beads in your mother's

G.

button bag. After slipping the beads on to the shaft, and sticking the shaft through the hole in bearing plate G, bend the

end

hook

of the shaft into a

hook into the bottom

and you

54),

will

;

then screw a small screw-

of the hull, at the

bow end

(/, Fig.

be ready for

The Rubber-Band Motor.

Rubber-bands

inches in length are best for the purpose.

about

Loop

i|

these

together end to end (Fig. 60) to form a strand that will

reach from hook / to the hook on the propeller-shaft

then form three more strands of this same length, and the end loops of

four strands over the hooks.

all

To Wind the Motor,

give the propeller about one hun-

dred turns with your finger; peller until

slip

then, keep hold of the pro-

you launch the boat.

There are

many ways

of elaborating

upon the design and

construction of this toy motor-boat, but, having given the

necessary instructions for building a simple model, I

going to leave further development

Here

is

an opportunity

for

you

Devise an adjustable rudder, add a pit

with a coaming,

flashlight —

in

model you can

install

fact,

build.

see

for

to

to use your

work

am out.

ingenuity.

keel, finish off the cock-

a headlight

just

you

made from

how complete

a pocket

a motor-boat

CHAPTER V HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS You 61,

can own a water-motor

because

its

like the

one shown in Fig.

construction requires nothing but easily

obtained materials.

The Case

of this

Fig. 6i.

varnish can

water-motor

is

— A Varnish-Can Water-Motor

— preferably

one

38

of

an empty

in Operation.

of gallon capacity.

The

ing better could be desired.

made

tin

can makes a

Nothlight-

HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS weight compact case

and

right place

from a faucet tight there floor — a

;

;

the spout in the top

water power and as the water connections can be made

argument

big

in just the

of the right size to receive the

no possibility

is

is

39

of

water splashing on to the

your favor when seeking per-

in

mission to use the motor in

the bath-tub, wash-

basin, or kitchen sink.

You can

The

store.

from

paint

a

or at

painter,

empty any

get an

can

varnish

first

step in

converting the can into the motor case consists in

removing the bottom.

You

will

dered

in

find

this

place,

and

probability,

in it

solall

can

be removed quickly by holding the can over the

flame of

gas

a

Fig. 62.

burner

The Completed Varnish-Can Water-Motor.

until

the

solder

when a few tin to

drop

melts,

taps upon the edges will cause the piece of

off.

The Water-Motor Wheel of the

show

water-motor its

details.

about I inch

less

(Figs.

shown in the cross-sections 63 and 64), and Figs. 65 to 67 is

The diameter

of the

wheel should be

than the inside width of the can.

In

4o


the model from

measurement

is

which the drawings were made,

5J inches.

Cut the two

this

side pieces of the

wheel out of a piece of cigar-box wood, and bore a f-inch hole through the center of each for the wheel axle.

Fasten

CORK

Fig. 64

Fig. 63

Figs. 63

and

64.

Sections through

Water-Motor Case.

a spool to the center of one side piece for a pulley-wheel (Fig. 66).

Prepare Eight Paddles if inches wide and 2 J inches long, out of cigar-box wood. of the paddles,

zontal

line,

a

Locate the positions for the ends

upon the

vertical line,

side pieces,

by drawing a

and two diagonal

hori-

lines at angles

HOME-MADE TOY 'WATER-MOTORS of 45 degrees, through their centers.

This

41

will simplify

the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one

Use brads

another (Fig. 67). to the paddle ends.

for fastening the side pieces

Those removed from the cigar boxes

will do.

The Wheel Shaft should be width

inside

of

a

trifle

shorter than the

the can, and enough smaller than the

j-inch hole in the wheel side pieces so the wheel will turn

Locate the centers for the axle upon the two sides

freely.

Fig. 66

Fig. 65

Fig. 67

— The Completed Water-Motor Wheel. — Details Water-Motor Wheel. Figs. 66 and Fig. 65.

of

67.

of the can, in the proper position so there will

be the same

margin above and at the ends

Drive a nail

through each side

An

of the

of the wheel.

can into the axle end.

Outlet for the water after

it

has passed over the

wheel paddles must be provided, and the best fasten a strip to raise the

and

two opposite

bottom about an

way

is

to

sides of the can so as to

inch, as

shown

in Figs. 62, 63,

64.

For a Pulley-Belt use a piece of heavy cord.

Cut a

slot

through the front of the can for the belt to run through,

HoMH-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS

4?

and make

this slot large

enough so the cord

not rub

will

against the sides (Fig. 63).

Pulley- Wheels for attaining different speeds can be

A

of spools of various sizes.

removed, mounted

in a frame, is excellent for a large wheel.

Connecting up the Water-Motor.

water-motor

made

bicycle wheel with the tire

If

you operate the

you can

in the kitchen sink,

either build a

platform as shown in Fig. 61, to bring the spout of the var-

nish-can case up to the level

Rubber tubing CORK-tf

of the faucet, or

you can

the water-motor

in

and

BRASS TUBING

lead

If

Fig. 68

G8-69.

— How

to

piece

rubber

of

tubing from the spout to the faucet,

Figs.

a

set

sink

the

Make

a

Water-tight Connection between

as

shown

you use the

ment,

slip

rubber

in

Fig.

68.

latter arrange-

the lower end of the

tubing

over

a

short

Faucet and Water-Motor.

piece

tubing, large 69).

and

stick the short tubing

enough If

you

glass,

brass,

or

tin

through a hole in a cork

fit

the spout of the varnish-can case (Fig.

raise

the water-motor high enough so the

to

faucet will set

enough hole

of

down

into the spout,

for the faucet,

you can cut a large

through a cork, and then

fit

shown in Fig. 64. Another Water-Motor. The little water-motor in Fig. 70 will furnish sufficient power to operate simple mechani-

the cork in the spout as

cal toys.

HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS The Water-MoWheel.

tor

43

SLOT-

Pro-

cure two baking-

powder can covers ends of the

for the

water-motor wheel 72),

a

out

of

make

the

Fig.

(.4,

cigar-box

which

to

wheel paddles, and a

stick

inch

I

and

square

5

inches long for the

wheel axle (B, Fig. 72).

Cut eight pad-

from the cigar-box wood 1 dles

inch

wide

and

a

pair

strips

them

5

Take

inches long.

these

of

and fasten to

one can

cover, in line with

each

other,

and

close

against

the

sides of the cover (C, Fig. 73).

Fasten

rhe Water-Motor Wheel.


44

with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends

Take another

of the strips.

to the

pair

F

C

same

pair of strips

and fasten them

cover, in a similar manner, at right angles to

Then tack

(D, Fig. 72).

to the cover halfway

E

the pairs of strips

between pairs

C and

and

With the

D.

paddles in position, locate the exact center of the end of the can cover, and "£;dl

j^v

_

drive

nail

a

through

at

this

point into the end B.

axle

of

Slip

the free ends of the

paddles

into

can

other

the

cover,

Fig. 72

and carefully drive

tacks or

c

r

"iiimii jjp/IIIKi te/ifin

I

brads

through the cover into them.

Drive

j^

a nail through the lllliiiii'

center of the cover

, l

"

i JM

"c

lilli«[' •Jill

Fig. 73

Figs. 72

and

73.

Details of

Water-Motor Wheel.

into

for the wheel.

end

of

axle B.

The Wheel Supports.

shows the supports

the

Figure 74

Cut the end pieces

4 inches wide and 6 inches high, and the cross strips

G

H

wide and 5! inches long. Nail pieces G to H, as shown, allowing the lower ends of G to extend i inch below if inches

HOME-MADE TOY WATER-MOTORS strips

The

H, and leaving a space

G

axle holes in pieces

of § inch

45

between

strips

H,

(Fig. 74) should be located in

the center of the width of these pieces, and halfway be-

tween

their tops

and

withdrawing

H.

strips

make them by pieces, and then

gimlet, or

Bore the holes with a

driving a large nail through the

it.

To Mount the Wheel upon

the sup-

withdraw the

ports,

nails driven into the

ends of axle B, the

wheel

slip

between

uprights G, and drive the nails through the holes in

G

back into the holes in the axle

ends (Fig.

Fig. 74.

— Support

for

Water-Motor Wheel.

71).

The Pulley Wheel.

One can cover should be

con-

verted into a pulley by winding several turns of string

around

it,

the string.

near each edge, leaving a groove between

Coat the string with glue to make

it

stick

fast to the cover.

The Water-Motor Case. water-motor case I, J,

be a

K, L, and slot

is

Figure

70

shows how the

constructed by fastening boards N,

M to the wheel supports G.

There must

through / and another through /, for the string


46

belt to pass through, of

and a hole through

water from a faucet.

K

for the intake

These can be cut out

of the

edges of the boards, as shown, before they are nailed in place.

Leave an opening between boards

TV

and M, and

the bottom of ends G, for an outlet for waste water.

—

CHAPTER

VI

A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY It

often thought that a toy railway

is

is

beyond a boy's

ingenuity to construct, whereas, in reality, the

simplest

he can make.

toys

tracks, stations,

and

it

is

one of

This applies to the

cars of every description, all of which

can be made with a few strips of wood, some spools, cardboard, and a bottle of glue, for materials.

have passed the age will,

for

of caring for

no doubt, enjoy the making your younger brother, or

your boy

for

such toys as of

one

one

of

/

relatives.

nails,

If

you

this,

you

—

r

\Cr^Jie

Figure 76 shows a railway set up and in

As shown

running order.

in the illus:

tration,

The

/

Trolley-Line, or overhead cable, runs

around the wheels either

end

pieces of

shown

Hn

\

m

supports,

of

wood

of

the

two supports, one at track.

the shape

Prepare four

and

size of that

Fig. 75 for the uprights of these

and

*

4

Fig. 75.

^

— Upright.

make two wheels three The wheels may be marked out with

inches in diameter.

a home-made

compass

—a

pencil 47

tied

to

the

end

of


48

a piece

of

string,

if

vise,

When

you haven't a compass.

the wheels have been cut out, place

one at a time, and with a

them

make

file

Fig.

around the edge as shown at C, eighths-inch hole through

76.

of

fasten six

groove

a

— The Toy Railway Bore a three-

Fig. 77.

each upright

and another through the center

your bench-

in

at F,

Fig.

each wheel.

two

inches

75,

Now

of the uprights

apart

upon

a

block of wood, as shown at

A

and B,

a shaft to

Fig. 77. fit

Whittle

loosely in the

holes of the uprights, and, after slipping

fasten

it

into them,

one of the wheels

upon one end and a small Fig. 77. — Support for Trolley-Line. spool upon the other (see C and D in Fig. 77). A weight of some sort should be fastened to the base, as shown at E. The uprights for the

other

support should

be similarly mounted upon

A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY another block of wood.

49

Fasten the remaining wheel to an

axle run through the holes in the uprights, and, as

it is

unnecessary to have a spool upon the other end of the

in Operation.

axle, cut it off short

and drive a

nail

through

it

to prevent

Having thus prepared the supports, place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway, and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it. Then set the supports a little farther apart,

it

from slipping through the

if

necessary, to tighten the cord.

spool

A

D

holes.

Run

another cord from

to

Water-Motor, steam engine, or whatever power you

can get with which to operate the railway. inverted with the tire removed from

been used

satisfactorily,

with the belt slipped

off

its

as has also a

A

bicycle

rear wheel has

sewing-machine

and the cord from the spool put

in its place.

A

good substitute

for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in

shops for toy railways will be found in those shown in Fig. 78.

These


5°

Tracks consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon

Make

pieces of cardboard.

end

a small gimlet-hole in one

and drive a short

of each stick,

opposite end (see Fig. 78). Nail.

finishing nail in the

Cut the cardboard

strips the

Dowel.

Fig. 78.

— The Tracks.

length of the sticks, and tack them to the sticks as shown in the illustration.

If

inch and one-half spools are used

for the car wheels, the inside

gauge

board

strips over the

over the ends

ends of the

cardboard

of the

of the tracks should

By

be an inch and three-quarters.

lapping the card-

sticks,

strips,

and the

sticks

and placing the

nail

dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing, a strong track

may

is

formed when the pieces are

sections to

This

it.

The Cars

for this railway will

structed alike, and

-**

it

is

have

their

&^

~P^

— A Top View of Car Truck.

car from one style into another. of a truck.

trucks con-

a simple matter to transform a

1

&

Fig. 7Q.

view

fitted together.

be extended to any desired length by adding more

For the bed

Figure 79 shows a top

of this cut a three-eighths-

A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY

51

inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter inches wide, and, after rounding the ends as

drawing, cut a mortise at

A and B two and

shown

in the

three-eighths

Procure two one

inches from either end.

for wheels, and wooden peg through the hole in

and one-half inch spools drive a

each, cutting off the ends so they project

a

little

beyond the

Then bore

80.

hole, as

shown

in Fig.

four holes in the edges of

the truck-bed with a gimlet at C, D, E,

and

F

(see drawing), and, after setting the

Fig. 80.

— Spool

Wheels.

A and

spools in mortises

B, pivot them in

place with small finishing nails driven into the

These

pegs.

nails should

In order to drive spools,

it

is

them

fit

loosely in the gimlet holes.

into the exact

best to locate these points

V

wooden

centers of

the

upon the ends

of

Brass Rtog

fyPeg

/K Fig. 81.

Fig.

#2Z> —The

Completed Car Truck.

the pegs before placing the spools in the frame.

A quarterG

inch hole should be bored in the top of the truck-bed at

and

/

which to fasten the two uprights / and Make the uprights four inches long and

// (Fig. 79) in

(see Fig. 81).


52

upon the lower ends

whittle a peg

H

to

fit

holes

G and

Bore a hole with a gimlet in the top of

(see Fig. 82).

each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the other,

bending

and

/, as

before

as

it

shown

in Fig.

Fasten

81.

K

between /

Place a small brass ring upon the wire

shown.

you fasten

it

A

in place.

small hook should be

screwed into one end of the truck and a screw-eye into the other end, for couplings, should you wish to hitch two or

more cars together. A Gondola Car, such as shown

its

truck

made

in Fig. 83, should

have

similar to Fig. 79, with the exception that

H.&E.C.R.B.

Fig. 83.

it

— A Gondola Car.

should be two inches shorter, in order that cigar-box

strips

can be used for the side pieces.

Cut the

strips

an

inch and one-half high and fasten them to the bed of the car with brads.

The with a

car

may

be used as a

trailer.

shown in Fig. 81 is a rather crude affair, but more work may be transformed into a better

little

looking car

A

This car

—

Street Car such as

an example

of

is

shown

what can be made.

roof of this car are

made

of

and 85 being The sides, ends, and

in Figs. 84

cardboard, the patterns for

;

A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY

shown on page

the cutting of which are

53

Figure 86

55.

shows a cross-section taken through the center

The two in

Fig.

A

side pieces 87.

With a

ruler

windows about as shown

shown

and lead-pencil draw

in the

first,

in the drawing, using double lines

Then, with a sharp

to indicate the sash.

knife, cut out

the center of each just inside of the inner

windows may be

left

of the car.

as

should be prepared

open or

side with tissue-paper.

If

may

These

line.

be covered on the

tissue-paper

is

used,

oil it

in-

to

r anunnnn cook City Raolwa •

•

Fig. 84.

-.

•

C

— Side View.

Fig. 85.

— End View.

more transparent. When the two sides have been prepared, bend each along the dotted lines (see Fig. 87) and tack one to each side of your car truck as shown

make

in

it

Fig.

86.

When

properly bent, the distance between

the upper part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches.

Cut the two inner ends

Fig. 88, using a

of the car the

compass with a radius

of

shape of

two and one-half

inches with which to describe the curve at the top. in the panels

and sash

side pieces, being careful to

Draw

you did those upon the get them on the same level,

lines as


54

and cut out the door and window openings.

Fasten

and

these end pieces between the sides with glue,

also

tack them to the uprights of the car (/ and /, Fig. 81),

which in

come

will

The

just inside of them.

two sections (B and C,

Fig. 86).

For

roof

B

is

made

cut a piece of

cardboard twelve and one-quarter by three and threequarter inches (Fig. 89), draw the curved end with a com-

shown on the drawing, and slit the by the dotted lines. When this piece has thus been prepared, remove the wire from the top of the truck (see Fig. 81). Bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car, and lap corners D and E over F and G, and H and / over / and K, tacking them with thread to hold them in place. To fasten this part of the roof to the top of the car, cut a number of small strips of linen, and glue them to the under side of the roof and to the inside face of the sides and ends of the car The upper portion of the roof C should be (see Fig. 86). pass, using the radius

corners

indicated

as

made out Fig. 90,

of a piece of

cardboard bent into the shape of

and cut at the ends so the upper portion of C Draw the ventilation little beyond its sides.

projects a lights

upon the

sides of

C

as

shown on the drawings, and

then fasten the piece upon the top of linen in the

C

should

with strips of

same manner as you fastened B in place. Cut the same curve to its top as B.

now have

and glue a piece the roof.

B

of

The outer ends

C

to complete

shown

in Fig. 91.

cardboard in each end of

The shape

of this piece

of the car should

is

be

made

as

shown

in

11%

Cat

H* B CO

V ii

Fig.

Fig. 91

Fig.

T

90

•poioo

nnnnnnn y.

bend tiered

Fig. 86

Fig. 87

3*

1BOYV1LLE

1

I

I

Fig. 94

C

F 2| Fig. 93

Fig. 88

Fig. 92

Figs. 86-94.

— Details 55

of

Toy

Street Car.

56


Fig. 92,

and tacked around the ends

and

platform,

of the

wooden truck

under side

also fastened to the

of the roof

The window openings may be cut make a stronger car if they are simply drawn upon it. Cut four cardboard steps similar to Fig. 93 and tack them to the sides of the front and rear

with strips of linen. in each end,

but

it

When

platforms.

will

the car has been put together, replace

the wire in the tops of uprights / and

J

(Fig. 81), run-

ning the ends through the roof (see Fig. 84).

and ends

sides

brown trimmings,

Water

colors can be used

and paint the roof a

light gray.

Letter the

for the purpose.

the sides

and the number

name

of

lettered

your car-line upon

upon each end and

of the car

The route should be

side.

Paint the

of the car yellow with

upon

strips of card-

board with pins run through them as shown in Fig. 94, these strips to stick in the roof of the car (see Figs. 84

and

85).

Having seen how the car simple matter to

make

is

made, you

will find it a

designs for

Other Cars, using the same scheme

for the trucks,

altering the patterns for the sides, ends,

and

and

roof, to suit

the design.

Nothing has, as

yet,

been said about the

Operation of the Railway, and though Fig. 76 probably

shows

sufficiently clear

be helpful. tracks,

The

and the

top of the car)

how

it

is

run, a few words

car or cars are placed between the

may

wooden

trolley (or cord attached to the ring is

tied to the trolley-line as in the

on

illus-

A HOME-MADE TOY RAILWAY tration.

Upon

starting

your

water-motor,

engine,

whatever motive-power you have, the car one end of the track to the other. support of the trolley-line,

it

57

When

it

will

or

run from

has reached the

will stop long

enough

for

wooden wheel, and

the cord trolley to pass around the

then run in the opposite direction until the other support is

reached.

It will

thus be seen that the trolley hangs to

the upper part of the cable, or trolley-line, in running

one way, and to the lower part on the return run.

Fig. 95.

In

— The Railway Depot.

changing the direction of the run, the ring to which the trolley

A of

is

attached slides to the other end of the car.

Station such as

is

illustrated in Fig. 95

cardboard and mounted upon

a

is

made out

seven-eighths-inch

board large enough to form a railway platform.

After

and end pieces, with door and window openings placed as shown in the illustration, fasten them together with strips of linen glued in the corners. Make the roof low and extend it over the platform upon cutting out the side

each side and over the gable-ends, as shown in the tration.

Paint

the

sides

of

illus-

the depot the regulation

depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color.

Paint


58

the door and window-sash black, letter the

upon the gable-ends, and with a

station

pencil rule off the boards or shingles station,

either

upon the

two

end

of

may

be

roof.

made

your car

line.

upon the As this of the

ruler

sides, is

name

of the

and lead-

and the

slate

a typical railway

same pattern, one

for

CHAPTER

VII

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS The well

elevator

shown

in Fig. 96

worth one's making.

and

floor,

it

will

is

a unique mechanical toy

Release the

little

descend to the ground

car at the top

floor,

and then

return to the starting point, without you having to touch it

a second time.

A

mechanical device performs the

little

Perhaps

magical elevator?

The same plan may be followed

A

so.

trick.

for installing the doll-

house elevator in Chapter XIII, but the more stories there are the

why

I

more fun there

in operating the elevator.

is

This

is

have adapted the scheme to

A Toy

Office Building.

Six stories are

shown

in Fig. 96,

but you can make a modern sky-scraper with as stories as

you

like.

A

packing-case 3 feet 6 inches long,

stood on end, was used for the model.

can be added to the top

many

Another box or two

for additional stories.

box, or boxes, get enough box boards for floors

Besides the

and

parti-

tions.

Make

the Floors in two pieces (A and B, Fig. 98), so the

opening for the elevator shaft can be cut out of the end of

one piece in the manner shown.

about

5

inches square.

Mark

This opening should be

out and cut the boards for

59

all

6o


of the floors at one time,

opening the same in each

and be floor.

careful to get the shaft

Cut the notch C

A

about

i

in

board

inch square.

Fasten the floor boards in place with nails

driven

through

the sides of the box.

The Partitions, pattern for which

shown be

a is

in Fig. 99, can

made

quicker by

omitting the doorway,

but

this is easy to cut

by sawing along the sides and then splitting out the piece be-

tween the saw

cuts.

The Elevator Car should be built up of cigar-box wood, as shown in Figs. 101 and 102. The front portion (D) should be about 3 inches wide, 2\ inches deep, and 4 inches high, Fig.

96.— A Toy

Office Building with Elevator.

(E) should be of the

inches high.

same width,

and the

rear portion

2 inches deep,

Fasten these upon the base piece

F

and 2\

as shown.

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS The Elevator Guides.

Bore the holes

G

61

through the

top and bottom of the car, close to the sides, for guide wires

may drill.

H

to run through (Figs. 101

be bored with a screw-eye

if

and 102). These holes you haven't a gimlet or

any wire that you have on Fasten two screw-eyes into the top of the shaft, the same distance

or almost

Bell-wire,

hand, will do for the guides. the under side of

apart as holes G, and in the proper position so they will

come exactly over them

(/,

Fig.

determining these measurements.

100).

Use the car

Then bore two

for

holes

through the bottom of the shaft directly below the screweyes (/, Fig. 100). it

down through

Attach the wire to one screw-eye, run

holes

/, then across to

G

in the car,

through one of the holes

and up through the other hole /, up G in the car, and attach to

through the other set of holes the second screw-eye

/.

The Cables. The elevator is lifted by means of cord L (Figs. 97 and 101). Fasten this cord to a tack driven into (Figs. the top of the car, then run it up and over spool 7 97 and 101), over spool A (Fig. 97), and tie to weight K, The Counter-balance. A bottle filled with sand to make it weigh more than twice as much as the car, should

M

x

be used for

this.

Screw a small screw-eye into the cork

to tie the cord to.

The counter-balance runs up and down in The Smoke-Stack, which is fastened to the back building (Fig. 97). tubes, joining

Make

them end

to

of the

the stack of cardboard mailing-

end with bands

of

paper pasted

62


Top

around them.

Fasten the

VlEW-OF

stack to the back of the

Stack

building with wire straps,

and brace the top as shown in Fig. 96, but leave

it

unattached until

you have adjusted The Overhead Pulleys,

These are

or sheaves.

You

spools.

looking at spool

O,

M

by

will see

100 that

Fig.

turns on the axle

and the ends

axle are cut to

of

this

snugly

fit

in screw-eyes /.

Fasten pulley spool the smoke-stack of a

wooden

N in

by means

axle pushed

through holes pierced in the side of the stack, as

shown

is

in the small

draw-

ing above, Fig. 97.

Bore

a hole through the back of

the

building

cable cord L

for

to

the

run

through (P, Figs. 97 and and cut another 100), through the smoke-stack.

Fig. 97.

— Section through Elevator Shaft.

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS

How

the Car Operates.

When

63

the weight and cord

have been adjusted and the smoke-stack erected, the

ele-

vator will run from the ground floor up to the roof of

own

accord, because the counter-balance

much

is

its

heavier

To make it descend it is necessary to add make it enough heavier than the counter-balance so it will drop of its own accord. This is than the

car.

weight to the car, to

done with Ballast consisting of a bottle of sand or salt of twice

the combined weight of counter-balance After

filling

the bottle, cork

it

up,

K

and the

car.

and screw a screw-eye

Then the cork. screw the eye of a 2-inch hook-and-eye

into

into

the

building,

roof

the

of

:

Fig. 98.

— Floors.

Fig. 99. —Partitions.

over

directly

the center of box

A

E

and attach one end

of the elevator (R, Figs. 97

of a

and

101),

rubber-band to the hook and tack

the other end to the top of the elevator-shaft (Fig. 101).

With the hook and rubber-band properly adjusted, this is what happens when the car ascends to the top of the shaft. The bottom of the rear portion of the car strikes bottle Q, lifts it enough to release the end of the hook (R), and the rubber-band springs the hook out of the way (Fig. 97). The bottle remains upon the rear portion of the car, and its weight carries the car to the bottom of the shaft.

To Make

the Car Rise to the top of the shaft again, re-

/Screw-eye

\ Na£/>4?JV 1

\\

/SPOOL

(i)

(M)

CD

/WIRE

1^ fe -H /j^ /^ %

VGUIDES(H)

Q

--*

f

^Screw-eye

ft y'

\

h

RUBBER-BANDi

Fig. 102

Fig. ioo.

Figs, ioi

— Front View of Elevator Shaft. and 102. — Elevator Car Details.

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS move

Replace the bottle upon the end

bottle Q.

R, and

it

65

hook

of

be in position for the next trip downwards.

will

Cut the

holes

Y and Z

(Fig. 100)

hand

side wall of the shaft for to reach bottle

Q

through the out-

holes through which

and hook R.

Figures 97, 100, and 103 show

A

Simple Control

stopping the

for

Stick

different floor levels.

broom-handle, curtain-pole, or hole through the

low holes

C

bottom

locate

s-

on one

the under face

T and

100),

5

points

just

car

Remove

replace

nail

it,

top end to hold

it

drive a nail, with 103.— Detail

of Brake and

off,

bring

it

shown nail

to

raised to

^

a stop;

and

if

opposite direction while the

small

across

the

in place,

and

its

head

s ^ tumed

in Fig. 97, while the car

below the car

a

into each of the holes.

^^

Controlling Levers.

first

is

the stick, and

block (U, Fig. 100)

the

below

or bore a small hole at each point marked;

then

position

slip

Then

into slots C.

come when the

each floor level (Fig. 97).

Fig.

and

floor,

side locate points just

drill

a

and upon the opposite above where the back edge

each

of the elevator will

the

Bore

flagstaff.

(T, Fig.

side of stick of

at

a piece of

of the shaft, directly be-

in the floors

the stick through hole

car

5 may be

will project

the

stick

elevator

is

is

^

going down,

beneath is

tQ

filed

it

and

turned in the going up,

the


66

first nail

above the car

will project

over the back edge

^j# 5^<^Z^f[

fô

?^K^

^1

i^PM 1

Sri

i

*

ll

E

portion

of

bring the

WS[u

Two Figs.

a

Levers operbrakes

and

97

Cut these

*^H[

to

stop.

ate the

pu

and

car

(IF,

100).

the

of

j

shape shown in Fig.

i

ii

103,

iff

and screw one

to each side wall.

N

Then tack

a

of cord

stick S,

to

wrap the ends

I

cord

ill

piece

of the

around,

once

them

through

screw-eyes

V screwed

slip

into

and

the side walls, tie

to

tacks

driven into levers

W.

One series of brakes can now be set by

:

1

1

pulling forward one lull

ill

«//«». !

1

lever, ^2fV*«'- series

Fig. 104.

into stick

S

— An Outdoor Elevator.

at

X

(Fig

.

100), an Ld

and the other

by

pulling for-

ward the other lever. By driving a nail a nail into the bottom of

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS

67

the shaft, each side of stick S, the levers will turn the stick just far

enough

in either direction to bring the

brakes into

operation.

there

If

is

a kitchen porch to your house, construct

The Outdoor shown in

vator

EleFig.

104 to run from the

ground up porch.

If

to

that

you

live

an upper story

in

of

an apartment building,

your elevator

can be made to run to a greater height,

which, of course, will

make more It

will

siderable

save con-

work

the

porch,

for

one

will

fun.

to use

because

thing

you

not have to

build an upper platFig. 105.

— Supports

for Elevator

Guides and Cables.

form to stand upon to reach the elevator car

when

it

runs to the top, and for

another thing the supports for the guides and cable can

be fastened directly to one of the porch posts. Figure 105 shows a large detail of

The Guide

Supports.

Cross strips A, B, and

C

should be


68 1

about

8 or 20 inches long,

At a distance

B

of

about

1

2

inches wide, and iinch thick.

inch from one end of strips

eyes screw a second screw-eye (D, Fig. 105).

Screw-eyes

A dozen will

with § inch eyes are large enough. 5

A and

screw a screw-eye into one edge, and 8 inches from those

The

cents at the hardward store.

cost about

elevator guides are

fastened to these.

Besides the screw-eyes there must be two clothes-line pulleys for the cable to run over. apiece.

Screw one pulley into the edge

way between into

These cost

an edge

the two screw-eyes

C

of strip

at the

D

Nail strip

A

of strip B, half-

(E, Fig. 105), the other

same distance from the end

that you have placed the pulley in strip

you can get

B

(F, Fig. 105).

ground as

to the porch post as close to the

it,

strip

B

to the

cents

5

same face

about 18 inches above the porch

of the

and

railing,

same

C

strip

post,

to the

opposite face of the post at the same height as strip B.

Nail these strips securely in place. If

you cannot

find a starch-box or other small

which to make The Car, go to a grocery just what you want there.

box out

of

will

store.

It is

You

will

be sure to find

not likely that the grocer

charge you anything for a small box like

you have placed screw-eyes

D

urement, but

if

accommodate

it.

trifle less

the box you pick up

much

If

8 inches apart, as directed,

the width of the box should be a

eyes can be spaced as

this.

is

than

this

meas-

wider the screw-

farther apart as

is

necessary to

HOME-MADE TOY ELEVATORS Figure 106 shows

Screw two

how

the box

shown

at G, for the elevator guides to run

the exact

through, screw another into center of the top (H) to

tie

the hoisting

and screw another into the exact

center of the bottom to cable

converted into the car.

screw-eyes into each side of the box, one above

the other, as

cable to,

is

6q

the lowering

tie

Nail a narrow strip across the

to.

open front

of the car, at the

keep things from

bottom, to

falling out.

Get heavy wrapping-twine or stovepipe i 06.

wire for

The Guides. screw-eyes eyes

G

D

Attach these guides to drop them through screw-

in strip B, first,

in the sides of the car,

eyes D in

— Elevator

Car.

strip

A

and then fasten

to screw-

.

The Counter-balance

is

a large can

with earth, sand, or small

stones.

filled

Its

weight must be equal to about three times that of the

empty

Fasten the

car.

lifting

cable through holes punched in opposite sides of the

P'ig. 107.

— Counter-

can

(Fig. 107).

Use a strong wrapping- twine

The

Lifting Cable.

for

After tying this to

balance.

the counter-balance, run

then over pulley E, and the car.

The

cable

tie to

must be

it

over pulley F,

screw-eye 77 in the top of of the right length so

when

the counter-balance has dropped to the ground the car


70

come

will

just

above the porch

The Lowering Cable under side

As long less

railing,

as

shown

in

Tie

Fig. 104.

to the screw-eye screwed into the

of the car.

as the weight of the car

and

its

load remains

than half of that of the counter-balance, the counter-

balance will drop and by so doing

lift

the car.

The

cable

attached to the bottom must be pulled to lower the car.

Those one,

1

of

you boys who own a

tree-hut, or intend to build

should erect an elevator similar to the one just de-

scribed, for hoisting supplies to the hut. 1

Plans for building Tree-Huts, and a Dumb-Waiter for supplies, are

given in Chapter

XXV of

"

The Handy Boy."

CHAPTER

VIII

HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS Those ical

of

you boys who have examined the

little

mechan-

toys sold upon the street corners just before Christmas

probably have been surprised to find

made, and perhaps

it

how simply they

are

has never occurred to you that you

might make toys equally as good

for presents for

your

younger brothers, sisters, or cousins. Most of the smaller mechanical toys are not only easy to make, but they re-

and can usually be picked

quire materials which cost

little

up at home.

Sometimes

it

and planning

to discover just the things

takes considerable thinking

adapted to the various parts of toys part of the fun of toy making comes

A Buzz-Saw Lay out a

Whirligig

is

;

which can be

but that

is

where

in.

an interesting toy

disk about 5 inches in diameter

(Fig.

108).

upon a piece

of

cardboard, locate the position for the spool-end on the center of each face, and

make

four rings outside of this.

Divide the circumference of the disk into sixteen equal parts,

and lay

off

the teeth as shown.

(Fig.

in.)

The

spool-ends used for centers should have two holes drilled

through them for the twisting cord to

slip

through, and

should be fastened to the disk with glue or brads. 71


72

A

cotton string

is

best for

Operating the Whirligig.

After slipping

it

through the

holes in the spool-ends, tie the ends together.

the toy, slip the

first finger of

To work

each hand through the loop

of

each end, and whirl the

disk in one direction until the string

is

twisted from both

ends as far as the center.

Then of

pull firmly

on the ends

the string, and the disk

will whirl in the opposite di-

rection until the string

is

un-

twisted and twisted up again in the opposite direction.

As

the strings twist, slacken your

when wound up tight pull again to make it whirl in the The disk opposite direction. hold upon the ends, and

it

Fig.

hi.

— Detail

gig

twist so

shown

of

Buzz-Saw Whirli-

in Fig. 108.

has

should whirl very steadily when working right, and the knack of making the string

the disk will do so

attained with

is

a

little

practice.

The Clog-Dancer jointed doll. stiff

(Fig.

109)

His dancing-stage

cardboard held on the edge

knee.

He

is

held

by means

an

is

is

easily

made

loose-

a shingle or piece of

of a chair

of the string

beneath your

attached to his

Fig. 109.— The

dancer

is

Eccentric Clog-

A Circus

in himself.

the string and Jack jumps comically.

Fig. 110.— Pull

HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS head, so that his feet rest lightly

he

is

upon the

made

stage,

•RING

and l-BROOM-HANDLE END

by tap-

to jig

73

ping the outer end of the

-SPOOL- END

stage with the free hand.

With a

practice the

little

SPOOL

figure can be made to go

through the steps of the

most

eccentric

SPOOL- END

clogNAIL

dancer.

rBROOM-HANDLE

The more grotesque the dancer's appearance

more amusing

Figure 112 working

you

better.

for

The

If -I

his

center

*—

part of a thread-spool forms

the

N.LONG

shows the

details

construction.

2-1

N.LONG)

dancing

his

the

the

is,

will be, so the cruder

make him

(6-1

head,

and

—

N.LONG

2i-IN.L0NG

a

spool-end and the rounded

end

of

form the

a hat.

broom-handle

These three

2-1 N.

LONG

pieces are nailed together.

The body is a piece of a broom-handle, and a spool-end nailed to

it Fig. 112.

forms the shoulders.

Drive

— Details

of

Dancer shown

Body

of the Clog-

in Fig. 109.


74

a nail into the end of the body,

tie

a string to

and

this,

run the string up through the hole in the head, and out

through a hole in the

x

hat

the string to a

tie

;

fancy-work

ring.

The arms and legs are made of sticks whittled to

the

lengths

in Fig.

marked

and about

112,

| inch in diameter, and are

jointed

tacks

into

by driving their

ends

and connecting these with heavy linen thread. 112

Figure

shows how

the feet and hands are cut,

and how tacks are

driven into them for the

thread

connections.

Paint the clog-dancer's arms,

body,

Fig.

113.— Details

Body

of

of the

Jumping-

Tack shown in Fig. no.

and mouth upon

A Toy

an
mark

,

by

and

.

his face in white.

Jumping- Jack

Fig. 113

legs

his eyes, nose,

is

always amusing, and Fig.

no

You

will

shows a simply constructed home-made model. see

and

white, his head, hands,

2-1 N. WIDE

how

the figure

is

made.

The peaked

hat

HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS is

down from

half a spool tapered

and the head

is

mouth

for a neck,

cut in on one side.

and back

These are cut out

A

the end to the center;

the center from a darning-cotton spool,

shaped down at one end for the front

75

and with

eyes, nose,

and

Figure 113 shows the diagrams

of the body, the arms,

Cut the neck

wood.

of cigar-box

and the

legs.

stick

long enough to run through the head and hat, with a

square block on the end to

The blocks B should be

fit

of the

between the body pieces. same thickness as block A.

Bore the pivotal holes through the arms and

legs in the

positions shown, using a small gimlet or red-hot nail with

which to do the boring, and

tie

a piece of heavy linen thread

The arms and

through each as shown.

legs are pivoted

on

brads driven through the front of the body into the back.

When

the

body has been fastened

ends of the threads together, and

together, bring the

tie to

a small ring

;

also

knot the threads close to the body to keep them together.

him with a red coat, white stockings, and black

In painting Jack, you might provide blue trousers and a blue hat, shoes.

A

Cricket-Rattle

is

about the

ever devised (Fig. 114). sister or brother,

For

yourself. Fig. 116).

form

this rattle, first in this

will decide to

make one

prepare a notched spool {A,

exactly opposite those in the other end. to the

shape and

size

for

need not be cut as perfectly

as shown, but the notches in one end of the spool

B

of rattle

After constructing one for your

you probably

The notches

liveliest

must be

Whittle the handle

shown, cut the strips

C out

of cigar-


76

D as shown. The groove D is cut of just the right width to receive the

box wood, and prepare the block in the edge of

end

of the

mined

wooden

strip E.

The length

after nailing the ends of strips

Z^J

"CI

Fig. ii6.

I

GAR-BOX WOOD

•

best deter-

and slipping

6-1 N.

LONG

1

*

1

— Details of the Noisy Cricket-Rattle shown Fig. 114.

the handle through the holes in strips

it

E is

PIECE -OF-SHINGLE" OR -OTHER THIN WOOD

should extend from the groove in

Make

of

to D,

GROOVEijr^ F->

^y

C

as wide as the spool

is

C and

D into

high.

spool A.

It

the notches in A.

Paint the rattle red

or blue.

The Turtle Toy which crawls along alternately pull its shell,

the floor

when you

and slacken a thread that runs through

has always been one of the most popular of mechan-

ical toys,

and you

will

be surprised to find how easily our

home-made model shown in Fig. 1 1 5 is put together. The shell is a small tin mold such as is used for molding jellies. One about 4 inches long costs 10 cents. A mold having the

Fig. 114.— Whirling

Fig. 115.— The

the Cricket-rattle makes

Crawling Turtle's shell

is

it chirp.

a Jelly Mould.

HOME-MADE MECHANICAL TOYS form

bunch

of a

turtle shell, as

The

of grapes

you

head, the

will see

tail,

is

77

a pretty good form for the

by the

illustrations.

and the four feet are cut out

of tin

from

a can, and bent into the forms shown in Fig. 117. slits

are cut through the narrow rim of the

Then mold by piercing

the tin with the point of a nail at the proper places for

attaching them, as shown in the small detail drawing, and

STRING

TAIL \

RUBBERBANDS-

s*\

STRING Fig. 118

Fig. 117

—

How Head, Feet, and Tail are Attached to a Jelly Mold to Make shown in Fig. 115. Fig. 118. The Spool Wheels and the Rubber-Bands which Propel them.

Fig. 117.

the Turtle

—

the tab ends are pushed through the

slits,

bent over, and

clinched with a pair of pincers.

A

thread spool i\ inches long forms the wheels on which

the turtle runs,

propel

it.

and two rubber-bands ij inches long

Cut a piece

the spool, split

it

of a lead pencil a trifle longer then

remove the

into halves,

the rubber bands in the groove

;

then

slip

lead,

and

insert

the piece of pencil


78

The rubber-band

into the hole in the spool (Fig. 118).

ends must project an equal distance beyond the spool-ends. Before fastening the spool to the tin mold of a piece of

heavy linen thread

wind about twenty turns about each side of the

mold a

trifle

shell, tie

to its center,

it.

the end

and then

Pierce a hole through

in front of the center,

and

after slipping pieces of string through the ends of the rubber-

bands

(Fig.

1 1 8), tie

them through the holes pierced through Pierce a hole through the shell,

the sides of the mold.

directly over the center of the spool, slip the free

the thread tie it to

wound on

end

of

the spool through this hole, and

a fancy-work ring (Fig. 117).

To Make

upon the floor, pull on the ring, and as the thread unwinds from the spool the rubber-bands will twist then slacken the thread, and the As the rubber-bands turtle will crawl along the floor. Conuntwist, the thread will wind up on the spool again. tinue pulling and slackening the thread alternately, and the the Turtle Crawl, place

;

turtle will continue to crawl.

it

CHAPTER IX HOME-MADE TOPS There

are

many

ever dreamed

owners

who

of

take as

them.

A

of,

some

and

of the

much

probably more than you

styles of tops, it

you

will surprise

to hear that the

most curious forms are bearded men

any

delight as

girl or

boy

in spinning

few years ago on Murray Island, which

down among

is

way

the South Sea Islands, top spinning took

such a strong hold upon the attention of the natives that they neglected their work, and families often were without

boys and

food,

girls

having to go to school hungry.

Matters became so serious, in

fact, as

head chieftain was com-

for top spinning, that, finally, the

pelled to restrict

perts

it

There are many

to certain days.

among these South Sea

while their tops spin, cheer

Islanders.

them

a result of this fad

on,

The men

utes,

which you must admit

Whip-tops and peg-tops

is

sing songs

and take the greatest

precautions to shelter them from wind. of a contest reported that the

An

eye witness

winning top spun 27 mina pretty long time.

of several varieties

can be pur-

chased at the corner candy store, but the kinds going to show you

how

to

ex-

I

am

make cannot be bought any-

where. 79


8o

Clock Wheel Tops. the

little

This

A

splendid spinner can be

balance-wheel of a broken clock

wheel

little

is

so accurately

made

that

made

(Fig.

of

119).

will spin

it

very steadily from a minute and one-half to two minutes.

Fig. 121

Fig. 119

? Fig. 120

Fig. 123 Fig. 124

Figs. 119

and

120.

— Clock Wheel Tops.

— Upholstering Tack Top. — How to Hold Upholstering Tack 123 and 124. — Details of Spool Top.

Fig. 121. Fig. 122. Figs.

As the ends

of this wheel's axle are pointed, the top will

stand in one spot as long as

The toothed wheel shown

it

spins.

in Fig. 120, or

forms of wheels from a clockwork yet, unless

you

file

The

will

any

of the other

make good

spinners,

their pivot ends to points, they will not

spin in one spot but will glide spirals.

for Spinning.

friction thus

of time that they will spin,

and hop over the table

in

produced decreases the length but makes them none the

less

HOME-MADE TOPS Great fun

interesting as tops.

may

81

be had spinning these

wheel tops around the balance-wheel top, while the latter is

Figure 129 shows

spinning.

between the thumb and

how

to hold a clock wheel

first finger, for

spinning.

Start

it

with a snapping movement of the fingers.

A Rug-Tack is

A

Top.

rug tack or large upholstering tack

While the clockwork wheels are

another good spinner.

spun by twirling them by means pivots, the tack top

is

shown

then giving

it

The tack top spinner. in a

First

twirl

table.

an eccentric

is it

when you think

hops about

it

;

is

ready to topple over, its

122,

quick

very lively fashion

gains

first

Fig.

upon a

a

it

and dropping

in

upper end of the

spun by holding the spinning point

between the thumb and finger, as

of the

then,

about re-

it

FlG

~W" i25 _ A

shoe . Polish Can

Top

.

balance and for some

seconds spins quite as steadily as the clockwork balance-

wheel top. well as

A

upon

The tack top can be spun upon

its

head as

its point.

Spool Top.

The top

a spool and a short piece of halves,

and then taper one

center.

Sharpen the piece

through the spool until

made from a half of Saw a spool into lead-pencil.

in Fig. 123 is

half

from

its

of pencil to

its

Spin the spool top in the same

beveled end to the

a point, and push

point projects just a

way

it

trifle.

as the clock wheel tops.


82

A

By drawing

Spinning Top Race-Track.

a piece of cardboard, as

on the

inside, great

shown

fun

may

in Fig. 129,

a track upon

with an opening

be had by starting any one

of the small tops just described, with the exception of the

balance-wheel top, in center

the

the

of

space inside of the

and

track,

tilting

the cardboard so as to cause the top to

spin through the opening on

trick

the

top

ning

off

around There

the track.

a

the

to

and

track,

in

is

keeping

from

runtrack

the

that can be acquired

only with practice.

A Shoe-Polish Can Top (Fig. Fig. 128

Figs. 126-128.

Fig. 127

— Details of

is Shoe-Polish Can

Top

it

looks.

It is

made

This

a sure-enough good

looking spins as well as

125).

top,

and

it

of a pencil, a cone-

shaped piece cut from a spool, similar to the top shown in Fig. 123,

and an empty shoe-polish can.

The dotted

line in Fig. 126 indicates

how

the end of the

pencil sticks through a hole in the shoe-polish can, then

HOME-MADE TOPS through the cone-shaped piece of spool. the can

must be located

balance properly.

will

83

The

hole through

in the exact center, so the top

To

find the center, place the

box

bottom down upon a piece of paper, and with a pencil draw a line around it. Cut the paper along the center, and

you

have a piece ^_^ the shape and size of f? will

can

the Fold

the

half,

then

bottom. piece

half

in

again the other (Fig.

up,

way

open

127),

and the

section

in

two

the

of

indicated

folds,

it

inter-

by

dotted lines in Fig. 128, will be the ex-

act

the

center.

center

place

the

paper

first

With located,

piece

of Fig.

upon the

129.

—A

Spinning

Top

Race-Track.

bottom, then upon

punch a hole through the center and the can, with the point of a large nail. Increase the size of the hole enough to admit the pencil. Spin this top in the manner shown in Fig. 125. Hold the top of the can, and of

it

the upper part of the pencil between your hands, with the

palms together, and

slide

your hands back and

forth, first


84

Release

slowly, then rapidly.

upon

squarely

so as to cause

upon a

point

its

it

level

it

wooden

drop

to

surface.

The

steadiness of this top's spinning

will

depend entirely upon the ac-

curacy with which you cut the center hole for the pencil.

A

Spiral

130 presents a Fig. 130.

— A Spiral Top.

form as the top

while

spinning,

upon

it

substitution

the

spiral

disk

for

the

polish

can.

A

shaped spool

seeming

appearance design

spiral

to

change

its

the construction

of this

of

cone-

piece

are

the

Fig.

in

is

the

pencil and

curious

in

revolves.

The only difference between top and the shoepolish can top

The top

Top.

of

required

as in the case of the

other top.

The

spiral

design

for the disk,

shown

in

Fig.

131,

is

large Fig. 131.

enough so you can

make

a tracing of

and then trace

it

it

off

— Diagram of Spiral

on a piece

for Spiral

of transparent

upon a piece

of cardboard.

Top.

paper, Fill

HOME-MADE

TOPS

85

in alternate rings with black ink or water-color, in the

way shown, then its

cut out the disk, pierce a hole through

exact center to

fit

over the pencil end, and glue the

under side to the top of the cone-shaped piece of spool. Spin this top in the same

spun

A

way

as the shoe-polish can top

is

(Fig. 125).

Merry-go-round Top

carried out.

You

(Fig. 132)

will require

Fig. 132.

is

a

new

idea easily

a cardboard disk 12 inches

— A Merry-go-round Top.

in diameter, three spools, a pencil,

and some light-weight

cardboard.

Figure 133 shows the details for this top.

If

you haven't

a compass, use a large-sized dinner plate with which to

draw the circumference

of

the disk

conical-shaped piece of spool

through

it

disk to

fit

(B),

for a spinning point (C),

(A).

stick

Then

cut a

the lead-pencil

punch a hole through the

over the pencil, and tack the disk to B.

Cut


86

off

a third of the length of a

ribbon

spool

for

and

E,

fasten another spool (D) to

the top of the pencil.

D

Spool

should be glued fast to

the

pencil,

end

E

upon

and the

should

turn

spoolloosely

Coat the lower part

it.

of the pencil with glue so

it

will stick fast in B.

How

Top Spins. When you have made this much of the top, spin it Wrap to see how it works. the

the spinning cord Fig.

133-

Detail

of

Merry-go-round

Top.

lightweight

wrapping-twine

— about spool D,

manner that you wind the cord on any top spool end E with the left hand (Fig. 132), upon the cord with the right hand until all is unwound, and gently drop the top upon its spinning ;

point.

To

— a strong in the

same

then, holding pull steadily

)

— f A

get the best results, the

cardboard used for the disk plat-

form must be very straight

by pressing

warps,

flatten

under a

pile of books.

it

„

r ig.

Horses and Riders

for the

1

" 34.

merry- Mounted

— How TT

" TT

Horses are

upon Top platform.

HOME-MADE TOPS go-round

may

be prepared

merry-go-round in Chapter Figure 134 shows

like those of

X

horses

for

and

147).

or toothpicks

supports,

and

133 shows how holes are pierced through the disk

platform to stick them

A

the clockwork

(Figs. 143, 146,

how two burnt matches

are lashed to the legs of the Fig.

87

in.

Flag mounted upon spool

round top complete.

D

will

make

the merry-go-

CHAPTER X HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS shown opposite page 90 are a few of the many mechanical toys which can be operated by clockwork, and they are easy to make, too, requiring no more mechan-

The

toys

ical ability

than

is

possessed by the average boy old enough

to handle the simplest of tools.

Generally

it

is

easy to find an old clock somewhere

about the house, and a clock which has been discarded simply because is

it

has become worthless as a timekeeper

perfectly good for operating these toys, provided the

mainspring

have a

is

set of

in

working order.

works

for

It is

not necessary to

each toy, for they are so quickly

fastened in place that but a minute

is

required to transfer

the works from one toy to another.

Before commencing work upon the toys, get together

The Other Necessary

Materials.

These

will consist of

cigar boxes, cardboard, cotton or silk spools, glue, brads,

and a few pieces from the woodpile, with one or two additional

I inch

articles

and

1

which are mentioned

later

Brads

on.

inch in length should be purchased for fas-

tening the framework of the toys together, and the cigar

boxes should be about 8 inches by 4 inches by

2

inches

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS Remove

in size.

page

the paper from the boxes as described on

175.

To Prepare the Clockwork case,

for use,

remove

detach the hands and face, and pry

wheel pivoted directly under the hands

shown

at

Fig. 139.

A

Remove

in Fig. 139.

— How the Clockwork Motor

(This

B

89

Box has been cut down

(Fig. 139)

and the

is

C

its

the small

off

this

wheel

is

also the balance-wheel

Fastened to the Cigar-Box Cover.

to the Proper

lever

;

from

it

Length

for the Ferris Wheel.)

pivoted next to

it,

to increase

the speed of the remaining wheels.

Fasten the clockwork motor for

The Merry-go-round shown

in Fig. 135 to the cover of

a cigar box, as illustrated in Figs. 136 and 139, boring

;


90

holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends

on the back flange

of the

works to

from a spool (D,

on to the central pivot

clockwork in the position

The

sealing-wax.

ing

hole in the spool

be too large for the pivot and must be

To do

then press the wax

until

it

it

spool,

is

down with

compact, smooth

and make a dent

in

exact center of the hole.

up with

with a lighted match, allow-

to drip into the hole until the latter

it

full,

rilled

hold a piece of sealing-wax

this,

above the spool and melt

the lower

and fasten the spool

139)

of the

formerly occupied by wheel A. will

Remove

set into.

Fig.

it

off

it

about half

on the bottom

match the

of

with a pencil to indicate the

Heat the end

a lighted match, and press

is

the end of a

of the pivot

with

into the dent in the wax,

it

being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon the pivot.

Cut a hole through the bottom

of the cigar

box belonging to the cover to which you have attached the works, for spool

D

to project through (Fig. 139).

To Make the Standard for the merry-go-round, cut four wood 8 inches long, and fasten one to each corner of the cigar box, turning the bottom side of the box up strips of

then cut a piece of J-inch board 10 inches square, locate center as

F by

shown

drawing diagonal

from corner to corner

in Fig. 140, bore a i-inch hole

point for spool

D

(Fig. 136),

center of the board as

as

lines

The Tent should be shown in Fig. 141.

shown

its

and then

through

nail the

it

at this

box to the

in Fig. 140.

laid out

upon heavy white paper

After describing a circle with a

Fig. 136.

A Clockwork

Motor.

Eig. 138.

The "Flying

Airships."

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS

9i

radius of 9 inches, describe another circle within

a radius of 7J inches, this inner circle (shown lines in the

drawn

— Plan of Top of Stand-

Fig. 141.

— Pattern for Tent of Merrygo-round.

tening the tent

upon

along the outer

circle,

about the the

size of that

of

of

KL

tent-poles.

and from

it

Cut out the tent

cut a triangular piece

included between lines

KL

and

ML

the

and the

ML with

over to about

down make

its

Cover

diagram.

edge

upper edge

KL

by dotted

diagram) being

ard for Merry-go-round.

under

with

for a guide in fas-

FiG. 140.

in

it

glue, lap

NL, and rub

the edges with a cloth to

—

The Tent ready to be Fastened upon a Tent-Pole.

Fig. 142.

as neat a joint between

the pieces as possible (Fig.

142).

each corner of the standard top then cut four sticks

7

(G,

Bore a hole through

H,

I,

and

/, Fig. 140)?

inches long, sandpaper

smooth, and glue them into these holes for

them

until

92

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS The Tent-Poles.

the ends

When

the tent has dried, tack

of the poles, being careful to

make

it

it

to

set evenly

cut a scalloped border out of red or blue upon them paper and paste it to the edge all around as shown in ;

Fig. 135,

and

stick a small flag in the peak.

The Horses. A full-size pattern for Take a piece of tracing-paper Fig. 143.

Fig. 143.

—

;

or

is

shown

any thin

in

trans-

Full-size Pattern for the Horses of the Merry-go-round.

parent paper, and place exact copy

these

it

over the pattern and

make an

then rub a soft lead-pencil over the other side

of the paper, turn the

paper over with the blackened side

down, and transfer the drawing lightweight cardboard.

six

times upon a piece of

Paint the horses with water-col-

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS ors,

93

using the pattern as a guide for shading and marking

them, then cut them out with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors.

Figure 144 shows the pattern for

The

Sleighs.

board, cut

it

Draw

this out

upon a piece

out and fold along the dotted

Fig. 144.

— Pattern

for the

lines,

of

card-

then turn

Merry-go-round Sleighs.

and glue them to the dashboard and to the back. Cut two seats by the pattern given, bend down the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh, and make the back for the front seat like that on the back

in the flaps

seat

(Fig.

145).

Then make another

sleigh

similar to

the one just completed, for two are required for the merry-

go-round.

mings

Paint the sleighs green or yellow with trim-

of a lighter shade.

Figure 136 shows

The Shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted. Cut them 5^ inches long, whittle them round,


94

and rub them down with sandpaper.

The

shafts

fastened in a spool hub which has five holes bored in Fig.

136)

it

bore the holes with a gimlet or small

;

marking them

off

first

are (E,

drill,

with a

pencil to be sure of getting

them

spaced at equal distances. Point the ends of the shafts

them

and glue

into the holes in the hub,

then connect this spool to spool

—a

Completed sleigh showing Attachment to Shaft.

Fig.

145

three of

them

at

X

(Fig.

/T-,. (.big.

.

inches long

fasten the horses to the shafts, 143)

.*.

136).

punch a hole through

and

slip

each one over a

then tack the other three horses to the ends of these

shaft,

X.

shafts at the point

maining

back

,

.

2

To

with a piece of a lead-pencil

J)

To

fasten the sleighs to the re-

one end of a piece

shafts, glue

of

paper to the

and the other end around the shaft

of the front seat

(Fig. 145).

The

Girl Riders for the sleighs are

Fig. 146,

shown

full size in

shown

full size in

and

The Boy Riders

Make

Fig. 147.

for the horses are

tracings from the patterns as

you made

that of the horse and prepare four girls and six boys.

Paint their clothes in bright colors. for each

boy

rider, so

horse,

and glue the

Cut a

slit

in

Cut a second

he can be made to

each seat of the sleigh

astride of his

shown in Fig. 148. and stick the flaps on

leg to his hip as

the girl riders in them.

sit

leg


95

For the Platform shown directly under the horses and cardboard

sleighs in Fig. 135, cut a piece of

diameter

;

if

you choose

to

the merry-go-round, you

moved

in cutting

the Ferris wheel before

use the center pieces re-

Punch

out the rims, as noted in Fig. 153.

Fig.

Fig. 146.

make

may

11 inches in

Fig.

146

— Full-size Pattern for

Fig. 148.

Boy

Fig. 147.

— How the

Second Leg

the Girl Riders.

— Full-size Pattern

for the

is

Boy

of the

Attached.

Riders.

a hole through the center of this disk large enough for the

peg connecting spools platform rests upon

To Operate the mainspring

D

and

E

the top of spool

to slip through.

D and revolves

the Merry-go-round. is

wound up

is

it

will

it.

The key by which

shown screwed in place on

the under side of the cigar-box cover in Fig. 139.

winding the mainspring,

This

with

While

be necessary to have some

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

96

means of checking it so it time, and the best scheme

GIRLS

will not

for a

AND BOYS

unwind

check

is

same

at the

to bore a small

gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar box and stick

a match through this and run

it

between the spokes

of the clock wheels so as to prevent

when you have wound up the merry-go-round,

all

it

of

one

Then

from turning.

the spring and are ready to start

you have

to

do

is

to pull out the

match.

The model

of this toy

which the author has before him

runs for five minutes with one winding, and any boy can

make one which

run as well

will

he follows the directions

if

given and uses a reasonable amount of carefulness in the

work.

Other Animals than horses follow the arrangement of

may

some

be used

may

rounds, and pictures of these

if

you wish

to

of the latest merry-go-

be found

among

colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores, or

if

the

you

may copy them from books and magamay be had by changing the positions

can draw well, you zines.

of the

Great fun

boy

riders,

making them

ride

backward part

of the

time and sometimes two and three boys on a horse.

Doubtless you have heard of the famous Ferris wheel,

and a good many patterned after interested in

A

it,

of

you have ridden

at the

amusement

in the smaller wheels

parks, so

you

will

be

making

Miniature Ferris Wheel

like the

one shown in Fig.

137.

The Standard

for

supporting

the

wheel

(Fig.

149)


97

consists of

two triangular supports, one with a spool hub

fastened to

its

top for the axle of the wheel to run through

and the other with the fastened to

cigar

Figures 150, 151, and 152 show the con-

it.

Cut

struction of these supports.

long and

P

and Q

will

so

R

strips

10 inches long, and trim

when they

be 8 inches apart

strip

P

R

box inclosing the clockwork

off

P

and

Q

12 inches

the upper ends of

are nailed together the lower ends nail

;

to the lower ends of

and Q

(Fig.

fasten the spool

To

150).

hub

to its

support, smear one side of

a piece of

and wind

tape with glue it

several times

around the spool

(Fig. 151),

then set the spool on top of the support

and press the

ends of the tape against the sides of strips

P

and

Q

(Fig.

Fig. 149.

— Standard

for the Ferris

Wheel.

15 2 ).

The Clockwork Motor

box

cut

is

make

as

is

fastened

for the

merry-

139), but the length of the as the clockwork will allow to

(Fig.

much

the box as square and compact as

It is

on a

down

wheel

box just as that

to the cover of a cigar

go-round was fastened

for the Ferris

possible.

very necessary to have the axle bearings exactly

line in order to

have the wheel run smoothly,

fastening the cigar box to

its

so, in

support, be sure that the cen-


98

D

ter of the hole in spool

on a

(Fig. 139) is

level

with the

hub on the opposite support. Nail the supports to a 10-inch by 12-inch board, 8 inches apart, and fasten a

spool

cigar

box between them

for

The Station Platform (Fig. 149). To Make the Wheel, first lay out of

heavy cardboard, using the

upon a piece

the rims

radii

shown

in Fig.

153

describing the circles,

for

then lay the sheet of card-

board upon a board and

Cut out the Rims with a sharp knife, being careful

not to run

off of

The Hubs of

the pencil

line.

the wheel are

spools with six holes bored

Fig.

150. — Make

Two

this for the Ferris

Figs.

151

and

152.

Fastened to the for a

Supports

like

Wheel Standard.

— How

Top

Spool

a

of the

them

in (Fig. 156).

and

157).

will

make a

receive the cardboard

In

fit

six

in (Figs.

in

154

making the

kerf of just the right width to

and

ends of the slender spokes. spokes to

fit

Use a saw rather than a knife

slots, for it

Cut

by I inch thick for each hub, and cut a slot in one

each for the cardboard rims to

of

for the spokes to

Spokes 5! inches long

is

Support

Hub.

end

157)-

in fit

will

not be so apt to

Whittle the hub

split

the

ends of the

the holes in the spool hubs (Figs. 154 and


Fig-

Fig-

153

99

Fig. 155

154

Fig. 153.

— How to Lay out the Cardboard Rims of the Ferris Wheel.

Fig. 154.

—The Spokes

Fig. 155.

— The Rim Slipped into the End of the Spokes.

Fitted into the Spool Hub.

Putting together the Spokes, Hubs, and wheel,

first stick

three spokes in a

hub and

Rims

slip

of the

a rim into

the slots in their ends, then stick the remaining spokes into the hub, one at a time, it

and spread the rim enough so

can be slipped into their

slots (Fig. 155).

When

the

hubs,

rims,

and spokes have been sembled,

and get

as-

them aside some heavy wraplay

ping-paper

or

thin

card-

Fig.

156.

Spool

—A

Hub

for

the Wheel.

To Make 158,

The pattern

the Cars.

and on

necessary for laying

157.

— How

the

Rims, and are Fastened

Spokes,

Axles

Together.

board out of which

in Fig.

Fig.

it

it

you

for the cars

will find all the

out to the proper

size.

is

shown

dimensions It will

be

understood that the unfigured portions of the drawing

WW


TOO

same as those with dimensions marked upon them. The dotted lines at the door and window openings inare the

dicate where the cutting

;

T] 1

i

L__i_!

Fig. 158.

f

is

to be done, while all other

j

i

l

:

— Pattern

for the Ferris

Wheel

Cars.

dotted lines indicate where the cardboard

and

is

to be scored

folded.

making the drawing of the car to get the lines straight, and when you have finished it go over it carefully and compare it with the illustration to be sure Use a

ruler in

;

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS it is

IOI

which make a careful tracing

correct, after

of

it,

turn

over and transfer the drawing five times upon cardboard.

it

These and your original drawing will give you the required number of cars. Cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors punch a f-inch hole in each end of each car with a leadpencil (Fig. opposite.

158), being careful to get the holes exactly

In folding and gluing the cars,

inside

and bend the

roofs

so

^—

the flaps

slip

they will

follow the curve of

the ends (Fig. 159.)

When the cars have been comA

pleted, cut six sticks 5

inches long, whittle

Completed Car

them down

fectly

round and smooth.

of the

wheel and form

The Axles from which

until they are

them

inch in diameter, and sandpaper

for the Ferris

These

Wheel.

about yq

until they are per-

sticks connect the rims

the cars are

hung

(Fig.

159).

Great care must be used in fastening them between the rims, for they are easily split,

and the best way

to

to start a hole first in the ends of each axle with

by driving a brad part way

or it

;

in

do

is

an awl

and then withdrawing

then drive a brad through each spoke of one rim into

an axle

(Fig. 157)

;

slip

the other ends of the axles through

the holes in the ends of the cars (Fig. 159),

spokes of the other rim to them.

and

nail the


102

To Mount the Wheel upon 8J inches long to

fit

its

standard, whittle an axle

the hubs, then hold the wheel between

the two uprights, with the hubs on a line with the spool

bearings and run the axle through the holes (Fig. 137).

Build Steps at each end of the platform out of heavy writing-paper or light cardboard.

Fold the paper or card-

board back and forth, making pleats about J inch wide for the steps, and after gluing trades

and glue them

it

in place cut out the balus-

to the edges of the steps.

Make

the

top step low enough so there will be about J-inch clearance

between

it

and the bottom

After you have

of the cars (Fig. 137).

made a

final

inspection to see that

everything has been put together properly, your toy will

be ready for operation, and I

am

sure that

when you

the clockwork machinery in motion, and the

begins to revolve slowly with each

upon

its axle,

you

will agree that

little

little

set

wheel

car balancing

you have constructed

a very interesting toy.

The " Flying Airships " is a riding device consisting of a number of cars suspended by steel cables from large arms pivoted ery

is

When

to the top of a tower.

started, the

arms begin

the machin-

to revolve slowly,

and the

motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the center.

As the speed

of the

arms

increases, the cars

swing out farther and farther, until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are

suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the cars

some distance above the ground

;

then the speed of

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS the engine

is

gradually diminished, and the cars finally

regain their former position.

known You will

also

as

103

an

This piece of apparatus

is

aerostat.

find the miniature flying airships (Fig.

138)

easy to construct after making a merry-go-round or Ferris wheel, as

many

of its details are identical

with those of the

other toys.

The Standard

for the toy

is

made

similar to the one for

the merry-go-round (Fig. 135), except that the top board is

omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the

of the disks

wheel

is

removed

in cutting out the rims of the Ferris

substituted in

place.

its

Cut a hole through the

exact center of the piece large enough so spool

D

size

it

will

fit

over

(Fig. 136).

Cut a Mast about 14 inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the spool

and

stick

it

into spool

D

;

then

3 inches below the top of the mast fasten a spool with

four horizontal

arms

6 inches long glued into holes bored

Fasten a cross-piece 4^ inches long to the end of each arm with brads, and from these suspend

in

it.

Cars made similar to those of the Ferris wheel, with cords.

Set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the

mast and then run cords from the top the ends of the

With

arm

of the

mast out

to

pieces.

this toy the cars

cannot be swung out obliquely

as on the large flying airships except

by

Increasing the Speed of the Clockwork.

This can be

accomplished by removing one or two of the wheels of

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

104

the clockwork, but

it

is

GIRLS

AND BOYS

not advisable to take out more

than one wheel in addition to those removed for the merry-

go-round

(Fig. 139)

because the mainspring would require

rewinding too often to

An

Electric

make

the toy enjoyable.

Motor can be belted to these toys as a subif you own one and prefer to try

stitute for the clockwork, it

out.

The clockwork

author for his book

were the

first

by the Handy Boys," and devised for home-made

toys just described were invented " Handicraft for

designs, he believes,

No doubt you have noticed " that manufacturers of the so-called " construction sets

mechanical toys of this nature.

—

steel

and wood

assembling

strips supplied

with bolts and screws for

— have used these very same forms of models to

show what can be made with their outfits. But your Ferris wheel, merry-go-round, and aerostat, built as described in this chapter, with materials picked up at home, will

be the equal of any that can be

built,

and you

will

have

the satisfaction of knowing that you haven't required an

expensive " construction set " for making them. All sorts of toy vehicles can be operated

by clockwork.

Figure 160 shows

An

Automobile, and Fig. 161 shows

how

the clockwork

mounted upon the chassis and belted to the driving wheel. The same scheme that was used for the cars of the toy railway described in Chapter VI will be followed in making The Frame of the automobile, as that is about the simmotor

is

Fig. 160.

The Car Completed.

Fig

The Framework.

161.

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS plest

bed

way, and makes a

light,

°5

The

easy-running vehicle.

be cut of a different pattern, however, as will be

will

seen in Fig. 162.

shown upon

Lay out

this drawing,

the piece to the dimensions

and then cut

mortise in each end for the wheels to

making a

out,

it

in.

fit

The spool

wheels should be mounted in the same nanner as those of the railway cars, for

which see Fig.

the directions upon page 51.

Chapter VI, and

80,

One end

A

of spool

should

be pivoted with a longer finishing nail than those used for

-^=3

6*

t=TT=Z t-S-l 1

1*

1 \

-H

A

ml*

I

1?-

V

***

I =-

1

\*

..

Fig. 162.

— Top View of Wooden Frame.

the other pivots, so that

an inch

will project

when driven

in place

beyond the frame.

A

about half

small silk spool

should be fastened upon this for a belt-wheel (see B, Fig.

The

162).

hole in one of these spools

is

about three-

sixteenths of an inch in diameter, so, in order to tightly

upon the

nail, it is

with sealing-wax.

upon

its

necessary to

To do

this,

fill

in

make

it lit

around the

nail

turn the wooden frame

edge and place the spool over the

nail,

being

careful to get the nail in the exact center of the hole.

Then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the a lighted match melt the end and allow it

spool,

and with

to drip into the


106

When

hole.

the hole has been partially

rilled,

allow the

down around

wax

to

nail

with the end of a match, being careful not to throw

harden a

the spool out of center

be

filled to

We ing

are

and then press

little,

by doing

The works shown

are from an alarm clock, but

scheme

works a it

if

you have a

make a

does not

in the foreground of Fig.

These

161

shown

will

When

of

The

must

shown

three parts

first

be removed from

unwind

and regulate the speed

they have been removed, the

The frame

rapidly.

in the illustration is held together

that in removing the wheels

two

in the

be recognized readily in any clock,

will

of the other wheels.

in Fig. 161

striking clock,

bit of difference in the

as they are pivoted close together,

mainspring

mount-

from those shown

little different

for attaching the works.

the works.

hole should then

to prepare the clockwork for

upon the wooden frame.

illustration,

The

so.

the

the top.

now ready

or one with

it

it

of the

works

with nuts, so

was necessary

to

them, spring the frame open enough to

unscrew let

the

wheels drop out, and then replace the nuts again in their

former positions.

If

frame

the

of

your

clockwork

is

riveted together, the wheels will have to be broken out.

A

small silk spool, such as

B

upon the small pivot which hands, for a belt-wheel.

(Fig. 162),

should be fastened

originally operated the clock's

Lay

the works

upon a table with

the face-side down, and, after centering the hole of the spool upon the pivot, fasten it in place with sealing-wax in the same manner as you attached spool B (Fig. 161).


107

The works should now be attached to the wooden Place them with the striker uppermost, near the

frame.

edge of the frame, so that the small belt-wheels are in line

Then bore a number of gimlet wooden frame and run copper wire through

with one another.

holes in the

them, passing twisting

its

it

around the posts

of the clock-frame

and

ends until the works are firmly fastened in

place.

A

rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and long

enough

to reach

from one belt-wheel to the other should

be procured for

The Belt. This should stretch just enough to cling upon the spools, as more than that would cause too much friction.

Before going any further with the construction of the

automobile Test the Machine, to be sure that order.

Wind up

it is

in perfect

running

the mainspring, pressing a finger against

one of the wheels to hold start the machine.

it

When

in

check until you are ready to

properly made, the clockwork

automobile should run a distance of from twenty to twentyfive feet

upon a wooden

of that distance should

smooth

floor,

while about three-quarters

be covered upon a floor with a fairly

carpet.

The Cardboard Sides and other details of the automobile should now be made. The patterns for these have been so shown in Figs 163 to 170 that they can easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by means of the pro-

io8


109

by squares described on page 175, Chapter XVII. White cardboard should be used upon which to draw these pieces, and the thinner it is the easier you will find it to work with. First prepare the two sides, cutting cess of enlarging

them out by the pattern of Fig. 163. Then glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden frame, cutting holes in the left side for the belt-wheels

and projecting posts Fig.

to run through (see

160 and A, B, C, D, and E, Fig. HAMMER

The top to the front of the car should now be cut as shown in Fig. 173, 172).

distance between the sides being measured to get the piece of proper

ON Clockworks

the

Fig. 171.

Chauffeur.

and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side pieces as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 172. In the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side pieces at G and H

dimensions.

Bend

the edges as in Fig. 173,

Fig. 172.

— Cardboard Side

of

Automobile.

no


(Fig.

The bent edges

172) for the seat-backs.

shown by dotted

pieces are

of these

Draw

lines in the illustration.

four

Wheels

as

shown

to describe the circles, knife.

You can

or leave

them

compass with which

in Fig. 164, using a

and cut them out with a sharp

cut out between the spokes,

if

you wish,

Glue the wheels to the cardboard,

solid.

placing their centers about as located at / and /, Fig. 172.

Four

Mud-Guards should be cut like Fig. 165, with flaps made along one edge. Then bend these guards around the tops and,

after

applying glue to the

flaps,

of

the

wheels,

them against the

press

board

side,

fingers

upon

holding

card-

your

the flaps until

the glue has dried (see Fig. 1

Fig. 173.

—The

60)

The guards should be

.

placed a

Hood.

little

above the tops

of the wheels.

Lamps

like Fig.

166 and glue end

L

front of the automobile at

other two upon each side at

(Fig.

M.

Draw and

The Steering-Wheel ing

it

to the

in Fig. 174,

end

172)

of

Cut four two upon the

and one

of the

These lamps are shown

in position in the illustration of the (Fig. 160).

K

completed automobile

cut similar to Fig. 167, and, after pivot-

of a strip of

cardboard with a pin as shown

bend the lower end and glue

it

to the

under side

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS of the

cardboard top

F

N

at

in

(see Fig. 172, also Fig. 160).

Make a Horn like Fig. 168 and glue it to the steering-wheel A strip of cardboard about the size as shown in Fig. 174. used for the upright of the steering-

of that

wheel should be cut for

The Brake, and glued

to the inside surface

of the right side of the car at

Pin.

(Fig. 172).

The Chauffeur should now be made. Cut his head and body the shape and size of Fig. 169, drawing the face upon each side with over

goggles

two pieces the shape

and then pivot

Q

Cut the arms

the eyes.

P

to

P and Q (Fig. 170), R and the end of Q of

at

to the shoulder of the

thread

for

in

fastening

the

body at

S, using

pieces

together.

Paint the hat, coat, sleeves, and gloves a

and the face flesh color. The body should then be fastened to the hammer

F G

e

s\ eer ^g-whJeL

leather color,

works with sealing-wax, as shown left

hand should be glued

and the

right to the

end

in Fig.

of the clock-

171, while the

to the edge of the steering-wheel of the

brake (see Fig. 160).

By

thus attaching the body to the end of the hammer, and

winding up the small spring, the chauffeur lently

when

will

shake vio-

the auto runs across the floor, showing the

vibrations of the machine in a greatly exaggerated

amusing manner. It

is

now

only necessary to

and


112

Paint the Machine to complete (Fig.

1

60)

shows where

it.

different colors

The photograph are needed. The

lamps, top, ends, and sides of the front portion of the car

should be painted the color of brass, and the rest of the sides,

with the exception of a strip along the bottom and

the edge of the arms, should be painted vermilion.

Paint

the inside of the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color,

to

represent

upholstering.

leather

sides

and

and top 173.

With black

and trimmings upon the

paint, or ink, stripe off the door of the machine, as

shown

in Figs. 160, 172,

Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the

spokes and rims of the wheels.

Along the bottom

of each

side glue a strip of cardboard for the running-boards.

When you have convert

it

tired of

your touring-car, you can easily

into

An Automobile Delivery Wagon, such as illustrated in To make this you will require the same frame

Fig. 175.

as that used for the touring-car, with the clockworks

belt-wheels attached in the same manner.

If

and

you have

made the touring-car, remove the cardboard sides from its wooden frame, separating the cardboard from the wood carefully so you can put the machine together again when you wish. If you haven't made this automobile, you will find the details for the construction of the frame in Figs.

161 and 162, and the

manner

of

performing the work

described on pages 104 to 107.

The Cardboard Sides

are

much

easier to prepare than

those for the touring-car, as they are straight and require

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS but

little

The

cutting.

175, surrounding the

Lay out one

side

outline for these

drawing

upon a

of

is

"3

shown

piece of cardboard, using the

dimensions given upon the drawing, and then place a board and cut

it

out with your knife.

Fig. 175.

pattern, place

it

a pencil around side.

Using

it

upon

this as a

— An Automobile Delivery Wagon.

upon another its

in Fig.

the completed wagon.

piece of cardboard

edges, thus

and run

marking out the second

In cutting out the latter piece, run your knife a

little

inside of the line in order to allow for the increase in size

caused by marking

it

out with the

first

cardboard

side.

Having prepared the two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form as shown in the illustration, separating

H4


them with

three lines.

Draw

a small window, with

its

top slightly arched, near the front edge of each side, and cut an opening for

it (see illustration).

Glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same

manner

as those of the touring-car were done, piercing

holes for the posts of the clockwork to

fit in,

and openings

for the belt-wheels to project through, in the left side.

Cut a

piece of cardboard for the

between the

sides,

and fasten

of linen strips to it

Then cut

posed surfaces. roof,

give

making it

and the

it

back

wagon,

of the

by gluing a number upon the inner or unex-

in place

sides

a piece of cardboard for the

about two inches longer than the

it

fit it

sides, to

the proper projection over the front of the wagon.

Fasten this piece in position in the same manner as you fastened the back of the wagon.

Make

the floor and footboard for the

piece of cardboard bent as it

shown

wagon out

in Fig. 175,

of a

and fasten

across the top edges of the projecting portions of the sides

with linen

strips.

Cut a

strip for a seat,

the sides an inch and one-half above the

The Wheels

and

fit it

between

floor.

an automobile wagon contain fourteen you have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes, you can just as well use it in making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted upon of

spokes, but as

the sides of the wagon, a

trifle

above the bottoms of the

shown in the illustration, so they will not touch the carpet when the machine is operated. All Other Portions of the wagon should be made of the

spool wheels, as

HOME-MADE CLOCKWORK TOYS same patterns given and

(Figs. 169

115

for the touring-car, viz. the chauffeur

170), the steering-wheel (Figs. 167 and 174),

the brake (Fig. 160), and the lamps (Fig. 166). legs of the chauffeur will show,

it

will

As the

be necessary to cut a

pair out of cardboard (the drawing shows the shape clearly

work by) and fasten them to his body. Fasten upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel, placing the latter in front of him, as shown

enough

to

the chauffeur

in

Stick the lower end of the cardboard

the drawing.

upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the

wagon

from the under

floor

Glue the upper end

side.

of

hand and the lower end

to the

with water colors, making the

sides,

the brake to the chauffeur's

wagon.

side of the

Wagon

Paint the

end, and roof olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and

spokes of wheels black, and the lamps yellow or the color of brass.

In painting the sides show the battery compart-

ments upon them below what would properly be the bottom of the

wagon

below

this box, as it represents

but

is

(see illustration).

necessarily brought

wooden frame. appearance

if,

Leave the cardboard white no portion

down

It will give the

after painting,

so

of the

far to

machine,

conceal the

machine a more finished

you go over

it

with black

paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides, following the lines which

Letter the word

each

side,

you drew upon them with a

" Delivery "

and the firm name

lamp and window.

pencil.

upon the center panel of between the

in the small panel


n6 By

attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as

described for the automobiles, you can

A

make

Clockwork Railway, constructing the cars similar

to the street car

shown

in Fig. 84,

Chapter VI, and using

the schemes in the same chapter for the tracks and depots.

Each

car should be provided with a clockwork motor,

because a single clockwork

more than one

car.

Let

is

not strong enough to pull

me know how you

building a clockwork railway.

succeed in

CHAPTER XI HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS An

entire

volume might be

filled

with plans for electrical

toys and yet not exhaust the innumerable forms that are

within the ability of a boy to construct. in this chapter for only a few, ideas, those that

knowledge

of

and

I

There

is

room

have selected simple

can be carried out by a boy having no

working with

electricity,

can be obtained at an expenditure

with materials that of

little

or nothing.

Thus every boy will be able to make these electrical toys. The Electro-Magnet Derrick shown in Fig. 176 will hoist nails and other small pieces of hardware from the floor to a table top, and as the boom, or arm, can be swung from side to side, and raised and lowered, loads can be moved from place to place in the same way as with large derricks. The toy derrick may be used for loading and unloading toy wagons, carts, and trains of cars, provided, of course, you use iron or steel of some sort for your loads. It is easy enough to get nails, brads, tacks, and odd pieces of hardware for the purpose. The model from which Fig. 176 was made has lifted a bunch of two hundred and eighty-four brads § inch long. or tacks, a

much

larger

By

using smaller brads,

number could be 117

lifted.

n8


The first part of the toy to construct is The Electro-Magnet. The difference between an electromagnet and the toy variety of horse-shoe magnet with which every boy is familiar, is that the electro-magnet retains its

magnetism only

Fig. 176.

is

passing around

so long as

an

electric current

— An Electro-Magnet Derrick.

it,

while the steel magnet retains

its

influence permanently, after being magnetized, unless

it

happens to be demagnetized by subjection to heat, or

in

some other way. Figures 177 to 179 show the details for making a simple

home-made electro-magnet.

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS

An

119

electro-magnet consists of a center core of soft iron,

wrapped with a

coil of insulated wire.

current passes over a wire, a magnetic field the wire

and when several turns

;

When an is

electric

formed around

of insulated wire are

wrapped about a

soft iron core, the

the turns of the

coil,

magnetic

fields of all

or helix, combine, forming a very

strong magnetic field which strongly magnetizes the iron

As

core.

I

have said before,

Figs. 177-179.

influence

the

will

loses its

mag-

Fig. 178

— The Electro-Magnet.

instant

through the surrounding

You

magnet

Fig. 179

Fig. 177

netic

this

coil

the

current ceases

to

pass

of wire.

need a machine-bolt or carriage-bolt i\ or

3

inches long, and \ inch in diameter, for the core of the

magnet, some insulated

electric-bell wire for the coil,

a piece of heavy cardboard.

Cut three washers

of a

and

trifle

larger diameter than the bolt-head, out of the piece of

cardboard

(Fig. 178),

and

slip these

over the bolt as shown

;


120

in Fig. 179

the nut end

— one ;

two at

at the bolt-head end, the other

then screw the nut on to the end of the bolt.

Before starting* to wind the insulated wire upon the bolt, pierce

of the

two holes through the inner cardboard washer

Then

two at the nut end.

stick the

end

of the wire

through one of these holes, and pull a length of 4 or of the wire out

two washers. end

this

5

inches

between the Starting at

of the bolt, then,

wind the wire around the TO-

BATTERY

keeping

bolt,

turns

the

even and each turn pressed close against the preceding

When

turn.

been

has

washer

the

head end

at the

of the bolt

reached,

wind

back to the starting point then Fig. 180.

— How the

Electro-Magnet

is

Connected up.

to the starting point of wire

wind

back

to

the

washer at the head a

sec-

ond time, and again back ;

and

have been wound

so

on until

in place.

six or eight layers

An even number

of

the wire back to the

layers will bring the free

end

of

double- washer end.

this

end through the second

Slip

hole in the inner washer,

and bring

two washers, as you did the bolt-nut

tight

against

the

ends in place (Fig. 177).

first

it

Then screw

end.

washers,

out between the

to

hold

the

the

wire

The outer cardboard washer

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS will

121

prevent the nut from charing the insulation on the

wire ends.

Now

connect the ends of the

a battery

and you

cell,

will

coil to the

binding-posts of

be surprised to find what a

strong magnet the head of the bolt core has become.

One end of the magnet coil should be connected to a and another wire dry-cell, and the other to a switch ;

should connect the switch with the dry-cell (Fig. 180).

A Home-Made Fig. 181.

Cut

made

Switch that

is

easily

A, B, and

C

(Fig. 182)

strips

Fig. 181

Fig. 181. Fig. 182.

Tack

can.

the turned

— A Home-Made Switch.

shown

in

Fig. 182

— Details of Switch.

up ends

This forms the switch lever. half,

is

from a tomato

of

A

wooden knob (D). B and C, folded in

to a

Strips

and punched near the ends, form the binding-post

plates.

Figures 181 and 182 show

how

to

mount

binding-post plates upon the switch base.

the lever and

Pivot lever

A


122

with a small screw passed through a hole punched near

its

end, and through the hole near the folded end of plate C.

Fasten plate

B

with a rug-tack (F) so the lever will come

with

in contact

it.

Screw-eyes

E

form the binding-posts.

Instead of using a separate base, the switch can be

mounted as shown in Fig. 176, upon the base of The Derrick. Cut the

Fig. 184

base about 8 inches wide

and 10 inches long {A,

The mast (B)

Fig. 176). is

a piece of broom-handle 16 inches

or curtain-pole long,

and

hole

bored in the base.

fits

loosely in a

Figure 183 shows a detail

The

of the mast.

upon

its

made

pulley

upper end (C)

of

is

two spool-ends

nailed together (Fig. 184),

Fig. 183.

•Detail of Mast.

Fig. 184.

Detail of Pulley.

Fig. 185.

Detail of

Boom.

and

it

D,

which

lever

form.

F

slips

axle

through

E nailed

the end of the mast.

sticks in a hole in the mast, close to the plat-

This

is

G

is

Screw-eye

upon the

holes in the plates to

The

turns

used to swing the boom from side to placed several inches above

F

side.

to serve the

purpose of a pulley to guide the hoisting cables.

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS Figure 185 shows a detail of the boom.

H

sticks

18 inches long,

Cut the

side

and fasten between them the

separators /, which should be just long

enough

The pulley

clearance for the spool pulley J.

on the axle K.

123

Screw the lower ends

of the

is

to allow

mounted

boom

to the

mast, at a point 2\ inches above the base.

The Windlass hoisting the detail in

Fig. 186.

through upright

M axle

L

derrick boom, and for

raising the is

shown

in

Bore a hole for

through,

stick

to

for

loads,

the

axle

and

cut

M enough

smaller than the

N

so they will turn

drums

spool easily.

to one

Fasten a crank and handle

end

of

each spool, and drive

a brad through each end of the axle to prevent the sliding

drums from

Cut four notches

off.

in

the inner flange of each spool, as

shown, and pivot the catches

Fig. 186.

— Detail of Derrick Windlass.

O

to the post L, in the positions indicated, so they

thrown into the notches to lock the windlass

The Hoisting Cables should be made (P, Fig.

176),

and run

this cord

down through

drum tie The other

securely to the

;

it

be

of strong cord.

Fasten one end of the cable for raising the

pulley, then

may

(Fig. 176).

boom

to a nail

up and over the mast G and over to one

screw-eye

drum

so

it

will

not

slip

around.

cable should be fastened between the nut and


124

washer of the magnet, as shown in Fig. 180, run up and

boom

over the

pulley J, then through screw-eye G, and

tied to the second

drum.

Figure 176 shows

how

the dry-cell

may

be strapped to

the base board in front of the mast, and

how

that connect the electro-magnet, switch, and

the wires cell

should

be twisted around the hoisting cable, part way, and the

remainder of their length allowed to hang.

Be

sure to cut

the wires long enough to reach from a table-top

Use

the floor.

flexible wire

By mounting

the base

if

you can get

and can

How

upon

is

may

be used

axles as the wheels of the

Motor Truck are fastened the Derrick Works.

explain that a load

Spool-ends

either be screwed to the edge of

the base, or be fastened Electric

to

upon spool wheels, your derrick

can be moved along a table-top. for the wheels,

down

it.

It is

(Figs. 203

and

208).

probably unnecessary to

picked up by throwing over the

switch lever to the contact point and closing the circuit,

and that

it

is

dropped by throwing

and opening the to lose its

A Toy shown

circuit

off

the switch lever

— which causes the electro-magnet

magnetism.

Shocking Machine.

in Fig. 187

is

The

little

shocking machine

a harmless toy with which you can

have an endless amount of fun when entertaining

friends.

The shock it produces is not severe, but strong enough to make your friend's arm and wrist muscles twitch, and perhaps cause him to dance. Large shocking coils contract the muscles to such an extent that

it is

impossible to let

"5


126

go of the metal grips until the current has been shut

off,

but in our small shocking machine the handles can be

dropped the instant the person holding them wishes to do

so.

The shocking machine and a pair of boy to make, and a wet

induction-coil,

an

which are easy

for

an

consists of

interrupter,

handles, all of

a

or dry battery of one or

two

cells

to furnish the current.

The shown

Induction-Coil

is

the

first

in detail in Figs. 188 to 191.

Cardboard

part to make.

The

coil

This

is

has windings

Endi

(ii"*2fB0LT

Fig. 188

Fig. 191

Primary

Secondar^ Fig. 190

Figs.

of

two

sizes of wire

191.

— Details of Induction-Coil.

upon an

iron core.

For the core buy

a 3^-inch carriage-bolt 2J inches long, and for the wire coils get

some No.

20- or 24-gauge electric-bell insulated

copper wire, and some No. 30-gauge insulated magnetwire.

To keep

bolt core,

the wire from slipping off the ends of the

cut two cardboard ends about

\\

inches in

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS diameter.

Slip one of these

and the other one next

127

on to the bolt next to the head,

shown

to the nut, as

in Fig. 188.

Three layers of the coarse wire should be wound on

first,

for

The Primary- Coil.

Pierce

through one card-

a hole

board end, stick the wire through

it,

and allow about

5

upon the outside then commence winding the wire upon the core, placing each turn close to the inches to project

;

When

preceding turn.

the opposite end of the bolt has

been reached, wind back to the starting point, then

back

to the other

borhood

end again.

There

will

of 175 turns in the three layers.

so there will be a 5-inch projection,

and

work

be in the neigh-

Cut

off

the wire

stick the project-

ing end through a hole in the cardboard end.

This com-

pletes the primary-coil (Fig. 189).

Before winding the small wire on top of the primarycoil,

to

form

The Secondary-Coil, wrap

the primary-coil with a layer

of bicycle tape, or glue several layers of

Then wind on

coil.

the small wire as you did the coarser

wire, being very careful to get

Wind

paper around the

eleven layers on the

it

coil,

on evenly and smoothly.

and run the end

of the

eleventh layer out through the cardboard end (Fig. 190).

There should be about 100 turns of or

1 1

A

00 turns in

this wire to the layer,

all.

crank arrangement can be rigged up to make the

winding

easier,

but with patience, and by doing the work

slowly, the wire can be

wound almost

as well

by hand.


128

It is difficult to

keep track of each preceding turn, while

winding, because of the fineness of the wire, and on this

account after

it

it is

a good scheme to coat each layer with bluing

has been

ing layer will

neath

it.

wound

on, so that each turn of the follow-

show plainly against the stained layer be-

Figure 190 shows the complete induction-coil.

Cut a base block

5

the top edges to give

inches wide and

7

inches long, bevel

a trim appearance, and

it

mount

the

induction-coil to one side of the center (Fig. 187), strapping it

in place

by means

in Fig. 191, cut

The

of

two

from a

tin straps similar to that

shown

tin can.

projecting ends of the primary-coil connect with the

battery, while the

with the handles.

two ends

Make

of the secondary-coil connect

three binding-post plates out of

folded pieces of tin, similar to plates

B

Tack two

base and connect the

of these to the

secondary-coil wires to

end

them

of the

and C,

(Fig. 187),

in Fig. 182.

and tack the third

near one end of the induction-coil and connect one primarycoil

wire to

it

(Fig. 187).

For the Handles take two pieces of broom-handle 3J inches long, and cover each with a piece of tin (Fig. 192).

The pattern

for the tin covering (Fig. 193)

are prepared on the ends

for connecting with the induction-coil.

wires should be 5 or 6 feet long. bell-wire for these, because

passing the handles around. pieces of broom-handle.

shows how tabs

and holes punched through them

The connecting

Flexible wire

is

better than

is more easily handled in Tack the tin covering to the

it

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS

^\

129

\

1"

^°w^

Fig. 192

r

Figs. 192

The purpose

and

193.

Interrupter

\\

v

i

3f — Details of Shocking-Coil Handles. is

to raise the voltage

The flow of current must be an

of the battery.

An

193

of the induction-coil

one, in order to shock,

and one

ig-

interrrupted

and therefore

must be inserted between the battery

of the wires leading to the primary-coil of the in-

duction-coil.

There are several ways to construct an

interrupter,

but

the scheme which I

have

of

shocking-ma-

this

PRIMARY-COIL HEREx

invented

model

for the

•CONNECTWIREFROM

Connect Battery wire

chine

(Fig.

187)

HERE

serves the purpose nicely,

and

is

a

neat appearing Fig. 194.

little

piece

paratus. see

of

— Interrupter for Shocking-Coil.

ap-

This interrupter

by the working

details

is

easily constructed as

shown

you

in Figs. 194 to 198.

will


130

Cut the base block

Make

the shaft

B

A

ij inches wide

long.

2f inches long and of a diameter equal

to the hole in a thread spool

;

and prepare the crank

on the end, and drive a brad into

fit

and 2J inches

it

for a handle.

the crank to the shaft with glue, or

The

brad through the two.

C

to

Fasten

by driving a small

shaft supports

D

should be

prepared as shown in Fig. 196, i| inches wide across the

bottom, f inch wide at the top, and if inches high. Bore a hole through each, a little below the top, and large

enough so the shaft

turn easily, and fasten these sup-

will

ports with brads to the sides of base A. into a thread spool, spacing

another, and 194),

first

mount

Drive eight brads

them equidistant from one

this spool

upon the

shaft (E, Fig.

slipping the shaft through one support, then

through the spool, and then through the other support. Drive the spool brads a

trifle

into the shaft to hold the

spool in position.

The

projecting

arm F

(Fig. 194) is a strip of tin cut

from

a can, and must be long enough so each nail-head will strike its

end when spool

E

is

A, at G, and, after bending strip fasten lar to

it

Drive a nail into base

revolved.

F

as

shown

in Fig. 198,

with brads upon the top of an upright made simi-

H

(Fig.

197),

and

nail this upright to the

end

of

The upper end of strip F must be bent so it will bear down upon the head of nail G. The wire from the primary-coil which is as yet not conbase A.

nected should be attached to nail G, and one battery wire should be connected to a binding-post plate / fastened to

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS the lower end of strip F. ing-post plate hole

is

punched through

it

how

Figure 198 shows

made out

of a

131

doubled piece of

the bindtin,

with a

for a small binding-screw.

This completes the interrupter.

Mount

it

beside the

upon the base block, and connect it with the battery and the induction-coil, as shown in Fig. 187. Coninduction-coil

nect the battery

cells in series.

Two

Fig. 197

Figs. 195-198.

How

Fig. 195

each nail in spool

strip F, in passing

it,

it

head

of

nail

G,

E

turn the crank

end

raises the

of nail G.

will spring

If

the strip has been

back into contact with the

and each time the contact

made,

is

the person holding the handles will receive a shock. strength of the current can be regulated somewhat

speed with which the interrupter crank shocks are stronger and more distinct

turned slowly.

of

thus breaking the electrical contact

and the head it

Fig. 196

When you

of the interrupter,

between

be enough.

— Details of Interrupter.

the Interrupter Works.

bent properly,

cells will

is

when

The

by the The

turned.

the crank

is


132

Home-made

electrical toys of a light construction

are

by a toy motor, when the motor and battery but when both are transcell are not carried by the toy ported, as in the case of a wagon, the construction must be very carefully worked out, or the motor will not be powereasily operated

;

ful

enough

The Toy

to drive the wheels.

Electric

Fig. 199.

Motor Truck shown

is

of

— A Toy Electric Motor Truck.

light construction, the axle bearings friction,

in Fig. 199

and the battery

is

light

and

produce very

little

of a powerful type.

Get an oblong shaped cigar-box for the bed and sides of the truck, several large thread spools for wheels and pulleys,

two small silk-thread

spools, four lead-pencils, or sticks

whittled perfectly round and \ inch in diameter, for axles,

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS and

belt-shaft,

steering-wheel post,

and

six

133

screw-eyes T56

inch in diameter for the bearings. First, place the cigar-box in a wash-boiler or

of hot water,

and allow

have soaked

labels

be scraped

off

it

off or

to

wash-tub

remain there until the paper

loosened sufficiently so they can

with a knife.

Then, after the box has thoroughly dried, cut the two

Fig. 200.

A

strips

each

(Fig. 208),

side.

strips.

— Top view of Electric Motor Truck. and fasten them

to the bottom, one at

Screw the screw-eye axle bearings into these

Place them at equal distances from the ends of

the strips.

The Wheels spools.

are

made from

the flange ends of the large

Figure 202 shows the front pencil axle.

Slip the

center portion of one of the large spools on to this for a


134

pulley, then stick the pencil ends through the screw-eyes in strips

The

A, and glue the spool-end wheels on to them.

rear axle

is

like the front one,

with the spool pulley

omitted (Fig. 203).

The Upper Shaft shown

in Fig.

201 supports a spool

pulley like the one on the front axle, and

its

screw-eye bear-

ings should be screwed

'73§L

edge

top

Fig. 201

into

sides

of

the

of

the

the

box

(Fig. 200), directly

over the front Fig. 202

Slip a silk-

axle.

spool on to each

end

of

this

shaft

its

ends

keep

to

from slipping out Fig. 203

of the screw-eyes.

The Figs. 201-203.

— Details of Axle and Belt Shaft.

you

Belts.

will

Figs. 200

the upper large pulley

is

202,

down

to the

Rubber-bands make the best

Cut a hole through the bottom

belts.

to

As by

belted to the motor pulley, and

another belt extends from the upper shaft pulley on the front axle.

see

of the cigar-box for

the belt extending from the upper shaft to the front axle to pass through.

with

its

Screw the toy motor to the cigar-box

pulley directly in line with the upper shaft pulley.

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS Wrap

the spool pulleys with

bicycle-tape,

35 to

keep the

rubber-band belts from slipping.

The

A

Battery.

truck to carry like that

;

shown

so

dry battery

is

too heavy for the motor

we must make a

special two-cell battery

Two

glass tumblers to hold

in Fig. 204.

the solution, a pair of battery zincs, a pair of carbons, and

a bi-chromate of potash solution, are needed.

Fig. 204.

Old battery

— Two Home-Made Battery Cells Connected in

zinc pencils with several inches of the eaten (Fig. 206) will

do

out dry-battery for the carbons.

for the zincs,

cells

Series.

end cut

off

and the carbons from worn-

cut to a corresponding length will do

Fasten together the zincs and carbons

with rubber-bands, as shown in Fig. 207, after wrapping a piece of bicycle-tape around the upper end of the carbon

and inserting a small wad

of

it

between the lower ends

of

them from touching one

the carbons and zincs, to keep another.

Figure 205 shows a completed

two

cells are

connected in

cell,

series,

and

that

is,

Fig. 204

how

the

with the carbon

:


i36

CUT

MS

OFF

Fig. 206

Fig. 205

Fig. 207

Fig. 205.

Figs. 206

— A Single and 207. — Details of Zinc and Carbon. Cell.

Twisting the

of one connected to the zinc of the other.

connecting wires into

coils,

as shown,

is

a good method of

taking up the slack.

The Bi-chromate Battery Fluid mate

of potash, sulphuric acid,

is

made up

and water,

of bi-chro-

in the following

proportions 4 ounces of bi-chromate of potash 4 ounces of sulphuric acid 1

quart of water

In making up this solution,

— never

add

solution

is

first

the water to the

add the acid

acid, — and

to the water,

then,

when

the

nearly cool, add the bi-chromate of potash.

Pour the acid into the water slowly, because the combination of the

two creates a great deal

of heat,

and

if

the heat

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS forms too quickly your glass bottle

is

As the bi-chromate

when

Amalgamating a Zinc

away

is

not being drawn upon, the not in use.

cell is

Pencil.

To

reduce the eating

of a zinc pencil used in a bi-chromate solution, the

zinc should be

mercury over

amalgamated by rubbing a thin coat of Dip the zinc into the solution,

its surface.

with

then

first,

POISON.

solution attacks the zinc element of

the current

removed when the

zinc should be

37

Label

likely to split.

the bottle in which you put this solution

a cell even

J

rag

a

Fig. 209

dipped in the solution rub the mercury on to

it.

Cut an opening through the cigar-box large enough for the in.

two tumblers

Then

about

1

to set

cut a strip of tin

inch wide and 8

inches long, and bend

it

into a U-shaped hanger, to

support

bottoms.

the

tumbler

Slip the

hanger

Fig. 208

Fig. 208.

Plan of Motor Truck Bottom.

Fig. 209.

Section through Bottom.

ends under strips A, bend

them against the sides (Figs. 208 and 209). Figure 200 shows

A

of the box,

how

and fasten with tacks

the battery cells are connected.

small switch can be fastened to the side of the truck

to shut off

and turn on the current, but,

instead,

simply withdraw one pair of elements from

its

you can

tumbler to


138

shut

off

When

the current.

truck, however,

it

is

through playing with the

important to remove both pairs

elements and wash them

off,

when

the current

As the bi-chromate solution

stains very

solution attacks the zinc elements even is

not in use.

badly,

it

is

where there

advisable to operate the motor truck only is

no danger

of the solution spills, If

you wish

chromate

make

of

because the bi-chromate

of ruining

as in the

anything in case some

basement or workshop.

to use a dry-cell instead of the pair of bi-

cells,

you can place the

the wires connecting

it

cell

to the

upon the

floor

and

motor long enough so

the truck can run back and forth across a room.

The Seat and Canopy-Top

Make

shown

in Fig. 210.

these in about the proportion to the cigar-box

in Fig. 199.

B

details are

shown

Fasten the seat to the edge of the seat-back

with glue and brads, and then fasten the side pieces

to the ends of the seat.

Fig. 210.

The dashboard

E

is

— Details of Seat and Canopy- Top.

A

nailed to the

HOME-MADE ELECTRICAL TOYS bottom piece D, and pieces A.

is

nailed to the lower ends of side

Figure 211 shows the pattern for the canopy-

Make

top.

D

139

it

heavy writing-

of light-weight cardboard, or

Slash the ends as

paper.

shown

then turn

;

down

-j

8

p~

"

~*\

the corners, and lap and

them

glue

form the

to

turned-down canopy Fasten

ends.

the

tO

the

ends

Canopy Uprights

Fig. 211.

-Pattern

of

Canopy-Top.

with tacks.

The Seat-Arms

are pieces of bent wire, with their ends

stuck into holes in the canopy uprights and front edge of the seat.

The Steering-Wheel and

is

is

a section of a spool | inch thick,

glued upon the end of a pencil or a stick.

Run

the

lower end of the pencil through a hole in the bottom of (Fig. 210).

For

The Levers, bottom piece

D

D

fasten

two small

sticks to the

with small staples.

end of the

CHAPTER

XII

A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY This interesting

toy, with its

funny animal

targets,

and

a harmless pistol with which to shoot at them, will provide

Fig. 212.

— The Completed Toy Shooting Gallery.

an endless amount

of fun for a winter's evening or

afternoon. 140

stormy

A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY

141

Figure 212 shows the completed toy, and Fig. 213 the

box that forms

The targets can be arranged to suit box that you find, and the number may be

The Framework. the form of

increased or decreased to suit the space.

Fig. 213.

— The Box Framework.

upon its side so its open top forms the front of the target box (Fig. 213). The horizontal piece A (Fig. 213) is fastened between the

The

right position for the

box

is

ends of the box, to support targets.

by

nails driven

your box

is

It is held in place

through the box ends into

much

larger than the one

shown

its

ends.

If

in the illus-

142


tration,

you can provide two crosspiece supports

for tar-

gets, instead of one.

The

drawn upon a piece of by marking around a cup

Circular Target should be

cardboard with a compass,

or,

saucer

small

or

make cle,

to

the outer cir-

marking around

a can cover for the

second coin

Cloth -hinge

circle,

and a

the

center

for

circle.

Blacken the

outside

and

rings

with

center ink,

or

by rubbing with a soft pencil.

Figure

214 shows

how the target should be hinged in

place to the hori-

zontal strip Fig. 215

Cloth Hi ng

Figs. 214-215.

Tack

or

lower

edge

the

glue

the

of

piece of cardboard to

— Details of Targets.

a block of

Then

A.

wood

B.

cut a hinge-strip out of a piece of dress lining, and

either tack or glue one-half of

it

to

block

B

and the

other half to the target support A.

The Animal Targets

are

made with

pictures cut

from

A HOME-MADE TOY SHOOTING GALLERY

and

magazines

The

newspapers.

should

pictures

colored with crayons or water-colors, to

:

make them

43

be as

nearly like their right colors as possible.

them upon cardmount the pieces of cardboard upon blocks of wood, as shown at B and C (Figs. 214 and 215), and hinge After cutting out the pictures, paste

board,

the blocks to the target supports with cloth strips.

shows the method

of hinging the targets to strip

B

A, and

to the lower side of the box,

and

C

shows the method

hinging the

of

targets

to

the

ends of the box.

The

former tar-

gets fall backstruck

;

Fig.

216.— The Card-Shooting

Pistol.

when

wards

when

the latter targets swing sideways

struck.

Figure 216 shows

The Card-Shooting show the

details for

inches long, and block

B

Pistol,

and

making

B

it.

about

Figs. 217, 218,

A

Cut block

Nail

3 inches long.

Then take two rubber-bands, together end to end, as shown in Fig. 218, and as shown.

end

of the

looped bands to the end of block

of a nail driven into the block

Fig. 217.

and 219 about 8

loop

A

fasten one

A by means

and bent over as shown

Cut a piece of cardboard about

1

to

them

in

inch square,

notch the center of two opposite edges (Fig. 219), and

fit

144


the loop of the free end of the rubber-bands over the piece of

cardboard and into the notches, as shown in Figs. 217

and

This completes the

218.

pistol.

The toy pistol shoots small squares of cardboard, placed in it as shown in Figs. 216 and 218, with one corner slipped beneath

band

loop.

Number gets as 212,

rubber-

the

Tar-

the

shown

in Fig.

marking the

cir-

cular target " 25," four of the

animal targets

" 10,"

and

the

re-

four

" 5."

Each number

repre-

maining Fig. 218 Figs. 217-219.

Detail of Card-Shooting Pistol.

sents the score of that particular target.

When box.

Shooting, stand 3 or 4 feet

Aim

the most. of hitting it

away from

the target

at the circular target, because that one counts If

you miss

it,

there

is

the chance, of course,

one of the other targets below or to one side of

and making a smaller

score.

CHAPTER

XIII

A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE

There

is

nothing more interesting to build than a doll-

house, and the construction

average

girl.

the carpenter

If

brother

work

to the finishing

so

is

willing to lend a

hand with

the better.

can attend

is

much

within the ability of the

Sister

and furnishing, which are important parts

of the work that she can do more handily than a boy can.

But

there

is

no reason why either a

undertake a doll-house 221,

shown

like that

and carry the work

girl or

boy cannot

in Figs. 220

to a successful completion,

carefully following the instructions

and diagrams

and

by

in this

chapter.

The Building

Material.

The

doll-house in the photo-

graphs was built of packing cases.

You can buy

these at

a dry-goods store at 15 or 20 cents apiece.

The Floor Plans are shown in Figs. 222, 223, and 224. Your boxes may make it necessary to alter the dimensions given, but that will be simple to do.

The

Partitions are

shown

in

Figs.

Patterns for 225 and

226.

In

cutting the second-floor partitions (Fig. 226), miter one edge of

E

and

upon the

F

to allow for the

plan,

bedroom door opening, shown

and miter the edges MS

of

G

to

fit

between

146

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

them above the

GIRLS

The mitering

AND BOYS shown

in the

draw-

Besides cutting a stair opening in the second

floor,

door.

is

ings (Fig. 226).

make an opening

three

by

five inches in the

second and

third floors for

The

Care must be taken to have these

Elevator-Shaft.

openings exactly over one another. in the

second floor

cated upon the plan.

No

and stairway.

Make

much

opening

eight inches in the place indi-

This

will allow for the elevator shaft

stairway has been built to the third

story, as the elevator serves the purpose,

take up too

the

by

six

and one would

of the ball-room space.

The Side Walls should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four inches high, and the other two walls thirty inches wide by twenty-four inches high. That portion of The Rear Wall enclosing the kitchen and bath-room is hinged to open (see Fig. 222), and

The Front Wall is made in two sections, each hinged to a strip of wood an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house, as shown in Fig. 220. The Windows are four by five inches, so four-by-five camera plates can be used

The Roof had

best be

for the glass.

made

in

two

sections, each

meas-

uring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches wide.

Fasten the boards together with battens on the under side and, after mitering the upper edge of each, nail them to the house so that the ridge floor.

Then

nail

is

fifteen inches

above the third

a board nineteen inches long

by ten

Fig. 220.

1

Fig. 221.

The Home-Ma dk

I)oll-H<

Interior View of Doll-House.

m

—

_,r

A \

Kitchen

1

.1

A

j 1

0)

LivirsiG

j

p Haul

Room

y

1

Room

1

M'+-4-

13"

!

*

T^Srfi

rr

t Fig

222

9-

3

:

ro i

r^-p

Bed Room G// '}'

4"

4-

4"

— ^fl—*4-

5" -4-

;*

b" 4-"

4

Bed Room

—

iz"

2

—

5"—±- 4 "-4-

I

4-

A" -J

Fig 225 1 First Floor Paetitioms

- is"

H—

223

Second Floor Plam

4 I

T 1

j

D

.1

Fig

f. 4--^|

0'

Bath Room

io"

!

First-floor Pla/n

o

'CD

1

Lime of Roof

i

i

k-2^ I— 4'^

H

13"

\

F 1

1

k-4£-

L_4^] gTTF^

a

Fig

226

Second Floor

Partitioms Fig

224

THIRD Fl_OOR PlAM'

Figs. 222-226.

— Plans of Doll-House and Patterns for Partitions. 147

148


inches wide in the peak of the roof

narrow

strip three inches

in Fig.

224).

(D

from each

These cut

in Fig. 228),

side wall

and a

(K and L

the triangular shape of the

off

ball-room and give

it

a better ap-

pearance.

of

The Chimney is a solid block wood with narrow strips nailed

to all sides near the top (Fig. 227).

Make

eight or ten inches long,

it

and cut

off

the bottom to

slant of the roof. red,

and mark

fit

the

Paint the block

off

the mortar joints

is

something which

in white.

An

Elevator

is

found in but few doll-houses.

It

was

ing

tress,

built in this house, think-

might please the young mis-

it

and

it

proved such a success

that the scheme has been worked

out carefully in

Fig. 227.

— The Chimney.

229,

may

230, 231,

in the

has already been described. small pulleys such as

228,

include

The is

it

Figs.

232, that you

and

house you build.

cutting of the elevator-shaft

For material, procure two

shown

in Fig.

230, four feet of

brass chain, six feet of No. 12 wire, half a dozen double-

pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead pipe, and a cigar-box.

Make

Fig. 229

Fig. 230

ouble Pointed Tack

Fig. 231

Fig. 232

Fig. 228.

— Front View and

Figs. 229-232.

— Details of the Elevator. 149

of Elevator-Shaft

Stairs.

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

150

The Car out

GIRLS

AND BOYS

of the cigar-box, cutting

it

down

two

to

and one-quarter inches wide, three and three-quarters inches deep, and seven inches high (see Fig. 231).

two

of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in

each side

run through and another

of the car for the guide-wires to in the center of the top

Place

from which to attach the brass

chain.

The Guide- Wires not bend

are

made

Cut two

easily.

very heavy wire that

of

of a length to reach

the ball-room ceiling, and after running

first floor to

through the tacks in the sides of the into small holes bored at E, F, G,

car, stick their

and

H

will

from the

(Fig. 228).

them ends

The

upper holes should be bored through the ball-room

ceil-

while the lower ones need be bored but part

way

ing,

through the

floor.

first

Care must be taken to have

these holes in the correct position, so the elevator will

run up and down upon the wires without striking the sides of the shaft.

place

is

The

to run the

easiest

way

of fastening the wires in

upper ends through the

holes, until the

lower ends can be set into their sockets, and then drive

two double-pointed tacks over the top shown at E and F in Fig. 228.

Now

run the elevator up to the top of the shaft, and

mark upon

the ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of

the car strikes. ceiling

of each wire, as

At

this point bore a hole

and two inches back

of it bore

which to run the weight-chain. cut a short block of

wood

to

fit

through the

another hole, through

When

this

has been done,

the peak of the roof and

A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE Screw the Pulleys

into

it

peak

Fit the block in the

!5i

two inches apart

(Fig. 229).

of the roof, centering the front

pulley over the top of the car as nearly as possible, and drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into

hold

it

it

to

Then

in place temporarily.

Attach the Chain to the tack in the top of the car,

slip

a piece of lead pipe about an inch long over the chain, allowing

on the top

to set

it

of the car to

make

the latter

heavier (Fig. 231), and run the chain up through the hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys,

To

the second hole.

first

and down through

the end of the chain attach a piece

of lead pipe for

The Counter-balance just it

heavy enough

and the

to

(C,

make

232).

This should be

a perfect

balance between

Fig.

which can be obtained by whittling

car,

the end of the pipe until the weight of the two

Make

is

off

the same.

the chain of sufficient length so the weight will rest

upon the

floor

first

You can now

tell

right positions.

when

the car

is

at the

third floor.

whether or not the pulleys are

When

in the

they have been adjusted properly,

nail the block firmly in place.

The Gable-Ends. pieces (A, B, C,

The

and D,

front gable-end consists of four

in Fig. 233), the

dimensions for

the cutting of which are given in the illustration.

preparing these, nail A, B, and

C

in the gable of the roof,

and trim the edges

need

To prevent

it,

to

fit

from pushing

between. in too far,

it

will

After

in their proper positions of Z>,

if

they

the movable section

be necessary to nail a narrow

152


strip of

wood

The

and third

to the roof

rear gable

made

is

floor, just inside of

in one piece,

and

is

it.

fastened in

place permanently.

The movable

gable and

Fig. 233.

all

hinged portions should have

— The Front Gable-End.

Spring-Catches with which to shut up and lock the

house (see the illustrations).

The Stairway

is

shown

in Fig. 228,

and the

details for its

construction will be found in Figs. 234, 235, 236, 237.

Cut a

This

made in two parts, with a platform between. block of wood the shape and size shown in Fig. 234

stairway

is

for the platform, with notches at

the lower stringers to

Prepare

Two

fit in.

A and B

for the tops of

Then

Stringers of thirteen steps similar to Fig. 235,

and two stringers

of five steps similar to Fig. 236, laying off

by means of shown in Fig.

the steps

a cardboard pattern, or pitch-board, of

the size

237.

After cutting out these pieces,

fasten the tops of the lower stringers in the notches in the platform,

and

nail the

platform in

its

A and B

proper position in

A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE 3"-

the corner of the hall.

When

Fig 234.

has been

this

done, nail the bot-

Stair -Platform 3"

153

SgUAKE-

toms

upper

the

of

(E

stringers

in Fig.

236) to the sides of lot

A'

/or-Sfr/nêrs-^B

I

m

CO

C the platform at

D (Fig.

234),

C and

and

set

the tops in notches

Id

U

cut

s

in

the edge of

the second

h

Fig 237.

CO

PrrcH -Board

floor.

Risers of the

W

and

The Treads

steps

— the horizontal and vertical boards —

o

J

should be cut out of cigar-box wood.

en CN

Cut

The Newel-Posts out of short square blocks,

and

The

Hand-Rails

out of strips of wood. cigar-box

Make Fig 236.

— Details of

groove in

the under side of the hand-rails to re-

UpPtt. Stri/ngees Figs. 234-237.

a

Stairs.

ceive the ends of

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

154

The

AND BOYS

GIRLS

Toothpicks are of just the

Balusters, or spindles.

right size for balusters.

The

delicate portions of the stairways should be glued

in place.

Make

slits in

the stair treads to stick the bottoms

of the balusters in.

The Front Steps

are clearly

shown

Make

in Fig. 220.

the solid balustrades out of pieces of box board, and the step treads

and

risers

rear steps in the

out of cigar-box wood.

Prepare the

same way.

Cut the Window Openings

in the places indicated

the plans (Figs. 222 to 224) and the photographs.

bore holes in the four corners of each window space

upon First

then

;

saw from hole to hole with a compass-saw. Old camera plates are excellent material for The Window Glass. Fasten the glass in the openings with small brads in the same way that glass is fastened in picture-frames, and putty it in the same way that window glass

is

puttied, to hold

it

firm.

The Front and Rear Doors can be painted upon

the

Openings are not necessary.

front of the house.

The Outside Trimmings.

Strips

of

cigar-box

wood

should be cut up for the outside door and window casings,

and be tacked around the openings as shown Nail a molding or a plain strip of of the third floor, as

Castors will

make

Cut four blocks

of

shown it

wood

in Fig. 220.

to the front edge

in Fig. 220.

easier to

move

the doll-house about.

wood, fasten a castor to each, and nail

one block inside each corner of the foundation frame.

A HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE

The

Woodwork.

Interior

hardwood

155

make

Cigar-boxes

Fit the pieces close together

floors.

excellent

and fasten

with small brads.

Make

the door

and window

and base-boards out

casings, picture-moldings,

of strips of cigar-box

wood.

After completing the carpenter work of the house,

— that drive them wood, — putty these holes and

Set the Nail-Heads, surface of the

and other defective Paint the

and a green

House

places,

all

and sandpaper rough

cracks

surfaces.

Stripe the foundation walls to indicate

roof.

Paint the front door a mahogany

with panels indicated upon

door white.

below the

a cream color, with white trimmings

courses of stone work. color,

is,

The painting

of

the

it,

and make the rear

chimney has already

been described.

The

inside

Chapter XIV.

walls

The woodwork may be

with white enamel

A

should be finished as suggested in

or

Colonial Doll-House with a

included in this house

Chapter

V

of "

oiled, or

painted

any other color desired.

is

number

described and

The Boy Craftsman."

of features not

illustrated

in

CHAPTER XIV FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE

With

work

the carpenter

the finishing of the inside,

— and

selecting

of

of

furnishings

remain to be done.

a doll-house completed,

— wall

papering and painting,

for

the

This requires as

rooms,

various

much

care as the

building of the house, and while any boy can do the work, the help of a sister will perhaps simplify matters and give to the

rooms a daintier appearance.

The Walls and

Ceiling of the kitchen

and bath-room

should be painted with white lead or white enamel.

For

the other rooms select paper having a small design, such as

is

to be found on

most

ceiling papers.

If

you have

ever watched the paper-hanger at work, you have noticed

he puts on the ceiling

first,

down

way

ming is

the walls a it off.

little

Then he hangs

allowing the paper to run all

around instead

the wall paper, and

no border to cover the joints

of the ceiling

papers he carries the wall paper up to the flour paste to stick

of trimif

there

and wall

ceiling.

Use

on the paper, and a cloth or photo-

graph-print roller to smooth out the wrinkles.

The

din-

ing-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below the chair-rail,

and a paper with

little 156

or no figure

upon

it

above.

FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE All

Hardwood

baseboards,

casings,

the

Floors,

stairs,

and picture

door and

moldings

157

window

should

be

thoroughly or given several coats of boiled

varnished linseed-oil.

All floors, with the exception of the kitchen, bath-room,

and hardwood Carpets.

If

floors,

should be fitted with

you do not happen

to

have suitable scraps

on hand, they can be procured at almost any furnishing store

where they make up carpets.

small patterns as possible.

The

and kitchen should be covered with

Rugs

for the

hardwood

floors

Select pieces with as

floors of the

may

bath-room

oilcloth.

be made out of scraps

of carpet.

Window-Shades may be made for each window out linen, and tacked to the top casing so that the bottom

of

of

the curtain reaches just above the center of the opening.

Each window should

also

have

Lace Curtains made out either be tacked

made out

of

of scraps of lace.

They should

above the windows or hung upon poles

No. 12 wire, cut in lengths to

fit

the windows.

Screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to

hang upon.

Handsome

Portieres for the doorways can be

made with

beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens.

Bead

For the

Portieres, cut threads as long as the height of the

door and string the beads upon them, colors in such a

way

alternating the

as to produce patterns.

Then

tie


158

the strings together to a piece of wire the width of the

The

doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening.

Straw Portieres are made

From magazine

similarly.

illustrations

you can

select

Suitable Pictures for each room, but

with brush and pencil you yourself.

may

These

may

prefer to

if

you are handy

make

the pictures

be mounted upon cardboard and

have their edges bound with passe-partout paper to give

may

be cut out of card-

Hang

the pictures to the

the effect of frames, or frames

board and pasted to them. picture molding with thread.

A

Cosey-Corner

may

be

up

fitted

in the ball-room

by

fastening a strip of a cigar-box in one corner an inch and one-half above the floor for the seat, and hanging draperies

on each side

of

Pillows

it.

may

be

made

for

it

out of

scraps of silk stuffed with cotton.

A

doll-house properly proportioned in every detail, in-

cluding the selection of

and

is

mens

to be desired to be

found

its

furniture,

is

pleasing to look at,

much more than some

in the stores.

of the speci-

These very often have

parlor chairs larger than the mantel, beds that either

two-thirds of the

bedroom space

fill

or are so small they are

hidden from view by the chairs, and other furniture accordingly,

all

having been selected without any thought as

to size or fitness.

Care must be taken,

in

buying the furniture, to have

the pieces suitable to the rooms.

more time than

It will

to purchase the first sets

no doubt require

you come

across,

FURNISHING THE HOME-MADE DOLL-HOUSE

159

but when you have completed the selections, the result will

be a

By

much

better appearing doll-house.

carefully searching the

certain of rinding

as

toy-shops you

what you want

about everything imaginable

manufactured. real liers,

Porcelain

are

almost

for the various

rooms,

in furniture has

bath-tubs,

wash-basins

faucets and running water, gilt furniture,

and such

articles are

rather expensive to

each piece

may

fit

tempting to buy.

up a house

in this

way,

been with

chande-

But for,

it

is

though

not amount to very much, they count up

very quickly.

The suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture Chapter XVII, and spool and cardboard furniture in Chapter XIX, will give you plenty of material for furni-

in

ture and save

you the expense

furnishings for your house.

of

buying

this part of the

CHAPTER XV A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE

The in

stable illustrated in Figs. 238

and 239

is

designed

keeping with the doll-house in Chapter XIII.

shown

in the

background

Fig. 238.

of the

photograph

It is

of this doll-

— Exterior of Stable.

If you prefer a garage instead of this you may omit the stalls, and make one or two windows in the rear wall in place of the small high

house (Fig. 220). stable,

large

windows shown.

The

building's 160

construction

is

very

A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE

The dimensions

simple.

depth, twelve inches

barn contains

are

:

161

width, twenty- four inches

and height, twenty-two

;

five stalls

on the ground

floor

inches.

;

The

and a hay-loft

above.

To ten

build the stable according to the drawings, a box

by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured

Fig. 239.

The

First Story.

portions

it

will

If

is

made

teen inches, and the peak

is

— Interior of Stable.

you have a box

of different pro-

be a simple matter to make such altera-

tions in the details as

The Roof

for

is

it will

in

two

require. sections,

each fifteen by eigh-

fastened to the top of the box so that

twenty-two inches above the bottom.

The Gable-End

is

made

in four pieces, as

shown

in Fig.

— 162


240, A, B,

and C,

window

in the center of

Fig. 240.

mov-

to be

Make

able as in the case of the doll-house. five-inch

D

and

to be nailed in place,

a three-by-

D, and fasten the glass

— Front Gable-End. Chapter XIII.

in place with strips cut as described in

mov-

Strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the

able section to prevent the latter from setting in too far,

and a spring catch fastened —3-

to

C and D

as shown, to hold

the movable section a

in place.

Figure

gives

241

the patterns and

measurements

The

Stall

tions, four of Fig. 241.

—

should be

for

Parti-

which

cut

out

Stall Partitions.

and fastened floor of the stable four inches apart, or so

the inside width into five equal

The Feed-Troughs

are

to the

they will divide

stalls.

made out

of

two

strips of cigar-

A HOME-MADE TOY STABLE boxes fitted between the

and Above the

as shown in Figs. 239 and by means of brads and glue.

stalls,

are fastened in place

241,

163

cut

stalls

Small Windows an inch

and one-half square

These are the

rear wall.

windows

ventilating stalls,

and may be

Figure

in the

for the

left

open.

shows

242

the

construction of

A Ladder This

is

to the hay-loft.

made out

sticks twelve

two

of

inches

long,

with strips of cigar-boxes

two inches long glued

to

them half an inch apart, as shown in the drawing. Cut away a section of the hay-loft

floor

two

inches

square and stick the end of the ladder

up through

the opening, fastening the

uprights

the

to

edge

of

the floor (see Fig. 242).

A

stick

Fig. 242.

— Ladder to Hay-Loft.

about three

inches long, with a very small pulley attached near the end, should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a

Feed-Hoist

(see Fig. 238).

1


64

The

A

first

story has

Drop-Front, as shown in Figs. 238 and 239.

made from

the box-cover.

of the stable.

of the floor (see Fig.

enough

is

Fasten the boards together

with battens placed upon the inside, and hinge

bottom

This

to the

it

Nail two cleats to the under side 238) to

lift

off

it

the ground

just

to allow the front to drop without springing its

hinges.

When

the front

is

down

it

forms an incline upon which

For

to run the horses into the stable.

not advisable to cut an opening in

it,

this reason it is

but merely

Represent a Stable Door on the outside This

is

done with paint and a

fine

(see Fig. 238).

brush.

First paint

mark

a green panel in the center of the front, and then

a couple of panels within this space with black paint,

off

them diagonally to represent beaded-boards. With strips of wood half an inch wide make A Simple Trim around the door, the sides of the stable, and around the gable, as shown in the illustration. When the carpenter work has been finished, Paint the Inside of the stable white, and the outside and

stripe

same

the in

colors as used for the doll-house (see description

Chapter XIII). If

you Prefer a Garage, use your ingenuity

interior of the building as

you think

it

to

fit

ought to be.

up the

CHAPTER XVI A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING

The

doll

apartment building

By

idea in doll-houses.

the apartment building of three

units — each

in this chapter

the illustrations is

one

you

is

new

a

will see that

and

three stories high,

story high — and a

consists

Dur-

roof.

upon the and floor so as to form a six-room apartment (Fig. 244) afterward they are piled up one upon another as shown in Fig. 243, and the roof placed on top, in a compact form ing playtime the units are arranged side

by

side

;

that takes up but

little floor

space.

The apartment building is built out The boxes used for the units must be

Building Material. of grocery boxes.

of equal size,

and the thing

which a standard brand

of

to

do

is

to select those in

goods come packed.

If

one

grocery store doesn't have what you want, go to another. If

the sides and ends of the boxes are in one piece,

greatly simplify the matter of cutting the door and

it

will

window

openings.

The Room Dimensions. illustrated

inches

inches

in the

model

were 28 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 8

deep.

by

The boxes used

These provided space

for

a

8 inches, a reception-hall 8| inches 165

vestibule

by

3

8 inches,

1


66

a living-room 12 inches by 18J inches, a dining-room 12 inches by 15 inches, a kitchen 12 inches by 8 inches, a

pantry

7

inches

by

3 inches,

two bedrooms

— one 12 inches

square and the other 12 inches by 8 inches, and a bath-

room

7! inches

vary the

by

sizes of

6 inches (Fig. 245).

your rooms a

trifle, if

You may have

to

you get boxes

of

1

Bedroom

I

KlTOIEM

T RECEPTION

Satm-I

LIVING-BOOM

MALL

£

ROOM

pantry!

|vestibule|

DINING

ROOM

5EDROOM

Fig. 245.

— Plan

different proportions,

to the

The of its it

;

of the

but

Six-Room Doll Apartment.

it is

probable that you can keep

same plan arrangement. First Story Unit

two partitions

Fig. 247

A

is

shown

in Fig. 246,

and B, are placed

The Second Story

Unit, with diagrams of its three par-

D, and £, placed to the Fig. 248 shows

The Third Story

F

and

to the right of

shows

titions C,

tions

and diagrams

G

left

and

right of

Unit, with diagrams of its

placed to the

left of it.

two

it,

and

parti-

p~l

N

->

d Fig. 244.

— How

the Thuke

Stories are Arranged Side by Side to form a Six-

Room Apartment.

~~-

1

[El

E E

*D

E El,

IE3

Fig. 243.

-The Most

Apartments

in

Stylish

Doll Town.

E

3'

1

A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING

Mark

the Door and

Window Openings

the sides of the box, making

them

167

upon

carefully

as nearly as possible in

A

F

Fig. 247.

— The First Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions. — The Second Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.

Fig. 248.

—The

Fig. 246.

Third Story Unit and Diagram of Partitions.

the same proportion to the wall space as illustrations.

Then,

ber of small holes a

is

in cutting the openings, trifle

shown

nummake an

bore a

inside of the lines, to

in the


i68

opening large enough to insert

a small keyhole-saw or

bracket-saw, and the cutting

be easy to do.

The Bay Windows on built

of

bays,

the second and third stories are

cigar-box wood.

width

entire

it is

will

away

Instead of cutting

box at the points

of the

the

of attaching these

a better plan to leave a narrow strip over the

opening, as shown in Fig. 249.

This will hold the walls

together,

beam " ing. The "

and

form a

will

across

the

ceil-

side edges of the

pieces that form the front of the

bay must be slanted

off so as to fit at

the proper

window

angles, and the

openings must be cut carethe Openi

the

Bay Windows,

over

the "

leave a

Opening,

as

j

Narrow

above,

for

Strip

for

a

"Beam

full y>

of

because

the

margin

wood around them -,

narrow and

.„

,.,

is

M

will split easily.

Fasten together the bers of the bays, also the inside partitions,

mem-

with glue

and brads.

The

between the Units, when

piled one upon by a band of wood \ inch wide nailed around the front and two ends of the bottom of the second and third story units (Figs. 247 and 248).

Joints

another, are concealed

These bands should project about \ inch below the bottoms of these boxes, so as to set

down

They must not extend around

over the boxes beneath.

the back of the boxes, and

A HOME-MADE DOLL APARTMENT BUILDING cannot be fastened to the

would

244. first

story unit

must be

raised to the

same

floor

however, and a thin board of

level as the other stories,

the

story box, because they

interfere with placing the boxes close together as

in Fig.

The

first

169

same thickness as the projection

on the

of the strips

Fig. 251

Figs. 250 Fig. 252.

and 251. — How the Removable Roof Constructed. — How the Chimney and Chimney Cap are Made. is

second and third story units must be nailed to to bring

it

to the

same

The Roof Construction

H

(Figs.

its

bottom

level (Fig. 246). is

shown

in Fig. 250.

Boards

250 and 251) should be cut of the right size to

form a projection

of if inches over the front

and ends

of

the building, and the piece / should be cut to the proper

shape and

size to

windows.

Strips

form an equal projection over the bay

/ and

be fastened to boards

K

are

1

inch wide, and should

H so they will come exactly over

the

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

170

and end walls when the roof

front

L

GIRLS

AND BOYS

when

K its front edges will come directly over

to strip of the

A

bay windows.

narrow

Block

set in place.

is

should be cut of such a shape and size that

nailed

the walls

strip nailed to the

under

side of the roof boards, close against the walls, will con-

ceal the joint

good

finish

between the roof and top story and make a

molding.

The Chimney is made of two blocks (M and N, Fig. Notch the lower block to fit over strip /, and cut 252). the cap block large enough to project J inch

much

new

material,

to

window

openings, but

have the paint-shop if

around.

Old photograph plates can be cut down

The Windows.

to the proper sizes for the

cost

all

man

cut

The

you haven't any.

with narrow strips of cigar-box wood.

not

them out

of

glass should be

Fasten

just a trifle smaller than the openings.

will

it

it

in place

Window

sashes

can be indicated by striping the glass with black paint.

Make and

Door out

in Fig.

it is

243.

of a piece of cigar-box

This door

better to fasten

wood,

an opening cut about the

set a piece of glass in

shown but

the Front

it

may

size

be hinged to open,

in the opening,

pieces are easily broken off their hinges.

because small

Fasten a small

block below the front door for a step (Fig. 243).

The Inside Doorways,

in

the ends of the

first

story

unit and in the back of the second and third story units,

may

be fitted with pieces of board that can be set in when

the units are piled is

not necessary to

up

in the

make

form

of the building,

this provision.

but

it


The

The door and window

Trim.

Interior

picture moldings, baseboards,

A

Tack

the strips

with short brads.

must be provided

Fireplace

for the living-room,

one easily constructed out of four pieces of wood in Figs. 253

Fig. 253.

casings,

and other trimming should

be made out of strips of cigar-box wood. in place

171

and

254.

Cut blocks

— The Living-Room Mantel. and make the

thickness, to project

O and P

Fig. 254.

shelf piece

Q

of

and

shown the same is

— Details of Mantel. of the proper size

an equal distance over the front and ends.

Fasten the pieces together, then glue red paper to the wood,

and when pencil.

this

The

has dried

joints

may

mark

off

brick courses with a

be accentuated by striping with

white or black paint. Lighting Fixtures, simple to make, are shown in two splendid

forms in

Figures

255

and

257.

Small

brass

screw-hooks such as are shown in Figure 256 can be pur-


172

chased at any hardware store, and a couple of dozen of

and a number

these, a lead pencil,

you with enough material

furnish

for

large beads, will

of

making

fixtures for

every room in the apartment.

You

will see

by

shown

Fig. 256 that the lighting fixture

screw-hook with

in Fig. 255 consists of a

hooked end stuck

its

through

mO

little

f

one

of

the

brass plates re-

moved from another

(l

BRASS HOOK

screw-hook, and then

pushed into the hole

^PENCIL-END-

in the

end

piece

of

of a short

Fig. 255

Cut about

push

BRASSHOOK

Fig. 258

— Two Lighting Fixtures and how to

Make Them.

apart where glued, re-glue the top.

it.

\

inch

long,

the

piece

and

if

neces-

accommodate the ^ If the ^ piece of pencil comes to

^

Glue the

brass cap to

little

Paint the pencil end white, to represent

and indicate metal division

end

sary enlarge the hole

DEAD Figs. 255-258.

pencil

out

of lead, Fig. 25;

lead-pencil.

the

strips, or leading,

glass,

with black

paint or ink.

The

lighting fixture

same way

shown

in Fig.

257

as the other one, except that a

the pencil end

is

is

made

in the

bead instead of

used for a globe (Fig. 258).


The fixture in Fig. 255 is better suited to room and dining-room, and for fastening each front door;

the fixture in Fig. 257

is

173

the livingside of the

better for the other

rooms. Decorating.

Suggestions for decorating a doll-house are

given in Chapter XIV, but here are some additional ideas to suit the conditions of the apartment.

modern

and the best plan

practice to tint walls of apartments, to cover the walls of each

It is the

room with

is

plain paper, using a

paper of a different color for each room.

The dining-room should have a

plate-rail

on which to

stand plates (pictures of plates cut from advertisements

and pasted upon cardboard), and the walls below the plate-rail should

be paneled with strips of cigar-box wood

for division strips (Fig. 244).

The Outside Walls posedly brick

;

of the

apartment building are sup-

therefore paint

them

a good red, brown, or

yellow brick color, and paint the roof cornice, and the horizontal bands between stories, white, as a contrast.

CHAPTER XVII HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE The when

metal furniture which you can buy it

long after

is

very pretty

new, but this new appearance does not

is

it

last

has come into a youngster's possession, for

the pieces are very slender and delicate, and thus easily

broken.

Wooden

furniture

and simple pieces

The

is

the most durable kind, and plain

will generally outlast the

designs illustrated in this chapter

fancy ones.

make very

tial pieces,

as there are no spindle legs or fancy

break

They

off.

that simple schools,

You

arms

to

follow the lines of the mission furniture,

style

used in the early American mission

and which

handsome

substan-

is

to-day being extensively

pieces for the furnishings of

made

in

modern homes.

will find the

Miniature Mission Furniture, illustrated and described in this chapter,

easy to

sell,

simple to

for there

is

make and something which

nothing

like it at present

is

upon

the market.

Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture,

shape and

and the various parts can be cut to the size

with 174

right

HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE

A

Procure

Scroll-Saw.

175

brads and glue with

small

which to fasten the pieces together.

To Prepare of boiling

the Cigar-Boxes for use, place

water and

labels readily pull

let

off.

them remain

Do

them

in a tub

there until the paper

not use a knife in removing

The paper by allowing it to soak long enough. When the boxes are clean, set them in the sun to dry, after binding the covers to the backs to prevent them from warping. Pull the boxes apart when they are thoroughly dry, and throw out such pieces as have printing upon them, for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if used. the paper, as

will

come

it is

likely to

roughen the wood.

off

In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that

make

the curved pieces have been

the furniture,

drawn out carefully on page 177, so that they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble, by the process of

by

Enlarging

Squares.

one-quarter of their their height).

To

full

These

size

enlarge

shown width and half

drawings

(half their

them procure a

board nine by thirteen inches, or a

little

on page

177.

piece of card-

larger than twice

the size of the drawing each way, and divide just twice the size of those

are

it

into squares

That will make and twenty-

sixteen squares in the width of the cardboard

four in the length, each half an inch square. get the squares spaced equally,

points

first

it

is

In order to

best to lay off the

with a ruler along the top, bottom, and two

sides of the sheet

of cardboard,

and then connect the


176

with the ruler and a sharp lead-pencil.

points

number the squares

Then

as in the illustration, using the figures

along the sides and letters across the top and bottom of the sheet.

With the sheet

of

cardboard thus prepared

a simple

it is

matter to

Reproduce the Drawings

of Figs. 259 to 266

by

locating

the points of the curves and corners of the pieces, as

shown

in the illustrations, in corresponding positions in

The curves may be them with reference to

the squares on your cardboard sheet.

drawn

in

by

eye, after locating

but the surest way

their surrounding squares,

ing

them accurately

is

by laying

of enlarg-

the points where the

off

curve strikes each horizontal and vertical line in the tration,

upon the enlarged drawing.

then be connected with a curved

Make

all of

illus-

These points can

line.

the lines heavy so they can be distinguished

from your guide

lines,

drawing, comparing

it

and

after carefully going over the

with that on page 177 to see that

no mistake has been made in locating the points in enlarging, cut the

various pieces apart.

The Patterns with which

to

These

mark out

will

give

you

the pieces on the

wood.

We

will first

note the construction of

The Chairs shown

in

Figs.

267 and 268.

These are

four and one-half inches high, two inches wide, and an

inch and one-half deep. Fig.

Cut the back

for the chair in

267 four and three-eighths inches high and an inch

K L

EFGHI — Figs. 259-266.

J

M M O

KL-MNO

Patterns for Furniture. 177

P

P

Q.

Q~

i 78


and three-quarters wide, the

sides

by the pattern

in Fig.

259 and the seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and

With the

three-quarters.

pieces

cut

fasten

out,

them

together with brads and glue, placing the seat between

Chairs

Fig. 267.

the arms and back so that

it is

Fig. 268.

an inch and one-half above

the base.

Cut the back

for the other chair (Fig.

one-half inches high

268) four

by two inches wide, the

seat

an inch

and a quarter by an inch and three-quarters, and the an inch and three-eighths wide by two and one-half

To

get the curve in the

bottom edge

and sides

high.

of the side pieces, use

the pattern in Fig. 259.

The Settee

(Fig. 269) should

pattern of Fig. 260.

Make

have

its sides

cut by the

the back piece three and three-


179

quarters inches wide and

three and one-quarter inches high, and the seat

and three-quarters

three

inches by an inch and one-half.

Fasten the seat

against the back an inch

and

one-half

above

the

base.

Tables

room,

for

the living-

dining-room,

bed-

room, ball-room, and nursery of a doll-house

may

be patterned after the deFig. 269.

signs of Figs. 270

and

— A Settee.

271.

These should be two and one half inches high to be

of

proper

proportion for the chairs.

The make

pieces Fig.

necessary to

270

are a

two inches square, two

top sides

an inch and one-half wide

by two and one-half inches high, and a shelf an inch and one-quarter square. Fasten the pieces together as ,

in the illustration, placing the shelf

Fig.

270.— A

Table.

between the

side pieces

an inch from the bottom.


i8o

The other design

(Fig. 271) will

A Dining-Room

Table, or table for the center of the

The top

living-room.

and three inches wide.

do nicely be

of this should

Cut the

in Fig. 261 and, after fastening

by the pattern under side of

to the

them with a

the table-top four inches apart, brace

long

five inches

side pieces

them

for

strip

and three-quarters

three

inches long

by

half

an

inch wide, as shown in Fig. 271.

A

Side-Board similar

to Fig.

made room.

272

should the

for

be

dining-

The pattern for is shown

the side pieces Fig. 271.

— Another Design.

in Fig. 262.

After saw-

ing these out, cut a piece

seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and fasten the side pieces to the edges of of the shelves

The

it.

location

can be obtained best by referring to Fig.

Cut the bottom shelf 272 and the pattern in Fig. 262. (A in Fig. 272) three inches long by an inch and onequarter wide and fasten

above the base

B

(line

it

to the side pieces half

24 on pattern, Fig. 262).

an inch

Make

shelf

by one inches and place it at line 22. C should be three and three-quarters inches long by an inch and onethree

half wide, with a small notch cut near each knife, to

make

it fit

end with your

over the side pieces (see illustration).

HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE Cut ing

shelf it

D

three inches long

No.

in place at line

17,

by

E

half

F

three inches long

by

an inch wide, fasten-

three inches long

sixteenths of an inch wide, fastening

181

it

by seven-

at line No. 15,

and

three-

eighths of an inch wide, fastening

it

shelf

at line No. 13. (G)

and

three

is

The top three-

quarters inches long and half

an inch wide and

is

fastened

to the tops of the side pieces

as

shown in the drawing. The lower portion of

side-board

is

the

two

inclosed with

doors two inches high by an inch

and one-half wide. of cloth

but

it is

may

Small pieces

be used for hinges,

better to use pins, run-

ning them through

above and below

the

shelf

(A and C,

Fig. 272) into the doors.

Stick

the pins near the edge of the

doors

and

see

that

they are

straight, so the doors will easily.

to the

open

Fig. A small mirror attached back between shelves C and D

272.

— A Side-Board.

will

complete this

piece of furniture.

A room

Mirror in a frame should be made for the livingof the doll-house.

A

neat and suitable design for


182

one of these tion cut

two

will

by means

piece five inches long

and a

by

wide for a

shelf.

back

and the

its

construc-

of the pattern in Fig. 263, a

three inches wide for the back,

strip three inches long

piece,

For

be seen in Fig. 273.

sides

by

three-eighths of an inch

Fasten the sides to the edges of the

between the sides about three-

shelf

Now procure

quarters of an inch above the base.

a mirror

such as you can buy in a toy-shop for ten

or

five

cents

a

(or

piece

of

a

broken mirror cut down to the right size will

do very

and attach

nicely),

it

to the center of the back.

The Grandfather's Clock makes an effective piece of for

the

easily

hall

made.

pattern

for

The back

is

or

furniture

and

living-room,

Figure the

(Fig. 274)

front

made

is

264 shows the of

this

clock.

the same, with the

omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for the clock-face. Fig. 273.

-A Mirror.

a block of

quarters inches to

fit

WQod twQ by twQ by

Cut three _

between the frames at the top.

After nailing the pieces together, procure a face from a

toy watch, and fasten front frame. of

A

it

in the

opening made for

it

button suspended by means of a piece

thread from a tack placed

in the

bottom

of the block

forms the pendulum. It will

in the

be unnecessary to give any suggestions for

HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE Kitchen Furniture, such as chairs and tables,

183 for these

can also be made out of cigar-box

wood

similar to the designs illus-

trated in this chapter, with per-

haps a few modifications which

make them

will

Now

making of some bedroom furniture.

for the

pieces

You

simpler.

of

will find in

Figs.

275 and

276 two designs that are easily carried out, one or both of which

may

be used for

The Beds of make Fig. 275, foot by means

a doll-house.

cut the head and of the pattern in

and cut the two

Fig. 265,

by means

To

sides

of the pattern in Fig.

After preparing these pieces

266.

and fastening them together as shown in the illustration (Fig. 275), cut a

few

strips a quarter

an inch wide

of

fasten

for

them between

the bed.

slats

the sides of

It is advisable to fasten

these in place to prevent

from being

The bed

and

them Fig. 274.

lost.

A

Grandfather's Clock.

side pieces for the other

(Fig. 276) are cut

out with the same pattern (Fig. 266)

1 84

Make

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS by four and one-half two by an inch and one-quarter out

the head and foot pieces three

inches, cutting a piece

Fig. 275.

of the top of each as

shown

— A Bed.

in the

drawing

(Fig. 276),

and

using the pattern of the other bed for cutting the curve in

Fig. 276.

— Another Design.

HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE the bottom edge. places, after

i85

Nail the pieces together in their proper

which cut some

slats

and fasten them

in the

bottom.

The Dresser

(Fig.

277)

is

made somewhat

similar to

Cut the sides by same pattern (Fig. 262) and fasten them to the edges of the the side-board.

the

back

which should be

piece,

six

and one-half inches high by three Cut shelf A three by one and one-quarter inches, B and C three by one and one-

inches wide.

D

by one and threesixteenths, and E and F one-half by one and one-quarter inches. eighth,

three

Fasten shelf

A

between the

sides

B

at line No. 24 (see Fig. 262), at line No. 23,

D

C

at line No. 21,

ends of

E

and

F

side pieces at line

Drawers

to

of the dresser

fit

at line No. 22,

and notch the to

fit

No.

over the

20.

the lower shelves

may

be

made out

of small strips of cigar-boxes

or Fig. 277.

pieces gether.

of

A

cardboard,

glued

small mirror fastened in the position

the drawing will complete the furniture.

— A Dresser.

to-

work upon

shown

this piece

in of

1


86

A Wash-Stand can be made for the bathroom and The

the bedrooms similar to Fig. 278.

each of

sides for this should

be five inches high by an inch and one-quarter wide, and the shelves one by three inches.

Fasten the lower shelf

three-quarters of an inch above the base, and the top shelf at a height of

two and one-half

When

inches.

has been put together, stick,

fit

the stand

a round

about an eighth of an inch in

diameter, in holes

made

in the sides

with a gimlet (see illustration).

forms the towel-rack.

Hang

This

a small

drapery over the lower portion of the stand.

When

Finishing.

the

pieces

of

furniture have been completed, they

should be rubbed

down with emery-

paper to remove the rough edges,

and Fig. 278.

— A Wash-Stand.

also

have been caused by soaking the boxes

wood

any rough places that may

in

several coats of linseed-oil.

finish for this

kind of wood, which

adding a coat of wax.

upon the

Then This makes a

water.

pieces as

The

shown

brush and red paint, or

little

may

hearts

give

the

beautiful

be improved by

may

be painted

in the illustration, with a small

may

be cut out of red paper and

glued to the wood. If desired,

the

white enamel.

bedroom furniture may be painted with


187

Other Cigar-Box Furniture In Figs. 279 and 282 will be found some pieces of furni-

make than

ture that are simpler to

those just described,

and although they may not be so pretty, they present a very good appearance

when neatly made. The author constructed

many

pieces of this fur-

when found them niture

a boy, and as

suitable

and something

presents,

that was always easy to sell.

The

cost of

making a set

amounts to but a few cents, cigar-boxes being the principal material.

They

also very quickly

are

made,

as the boxes require but little

cutting.

For the construction

of Fig. 279.

A is

shown

which a

— A Doll's Folding-Bed.

Folding-Bed, such as in Figs. 279

will

little

fit

and

280, select

inside the other.

The

two cigar-boxes, one

of

smaller box should be

shorter than the inside opening of the larger box.

After removing the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the larger one, as

shown

in Fig. 279, so that the bot-

i88


torn of the inner

Then

box

is

flush with the edge of the outer box.

drive a brad through both boxes on each side, about

three-quarters of an inch from the end as

shown

l'IG. 281.

Fig. 280.

279).

— Folding-Bed

at

A

(Fig.

— Foot.

(open).

These brads should run through the outer box into

the bottom of the inner box, and should be driven in carefully so as not to split the

down

as

shown

wood.

in Fig. 280,

The inner box should now fold moving upon the brad pivots.

HOME-MADE DOLL FURNITURE Purchase a

five or ten cent

of the bed, after

Fig. 281

holes

mirror and fasten

which cut two wooden

and glue the pegs on the ends

made above

the mirror.

it

189 to the front

feet similar to

of these in gimlet

Finish the

wood

the same as

described for the other cigar-box furniture.

The Dresser shown same

size

2.

Saw

as

in Fig. 282

the larger one

is

made out

used for the

— Dresser Completed.

Fig. 283.

of a

box the

folding-bed.

— A Doll's Dresser.

the sides of the box in half, crosswise, and remove

the upper half and the end piece.

Then

nail the

the tops of the remaining halves of the sides.

end across

When

this

has been done, divide up the lower portion of the box into

compartments as shown

in the

drawing

(Fig. 283).

This

I go


should have a small drapery hung over

The upper

it.

portion of the dresser should have a mirror attached to

and some

lace

draped over the top and

sides will

it,

add greatly

to its appearance. All

you

will

A Wardrobe

have to do will

in

making

be to fasten some small hooks inside of

a cigar-box, attach the cover with a strip of linen

same way

it

was attached before you soaked

hang a mirror on the These pieces sets,

of

it off

front.

furniture were designed for separate

and would not do

for doll-houses the size of those in

the preceding chapters, unless the boxes were cut smaller proportions.

— the — and

down

to

CHAPTER

XVIII

HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS Cigar-boxes are splendid material

made

for a variety of

home-

In this chapter are shown some easily con-

toys.

structed wagons, a Jack-in-the-box, a cradle, and several tables

and chairs

of

a different pattern from the doll

furniture for which working drawings were given in the

preceding chapter.

Get an assortment

of

shapes and sizes of boxes at a

and prepare them

cigar store,

for use as directed

Use f inch and J inch brads, and

175.

on page

glue, for fastening

the pieces together.

A

scroll-saw, bracket-saw, coping-saw, or a very sharp

jack-knife should be used where

Cutting

is

necessary.

wood, as the grain a board and score

is it

would score a piece scored

line,

Do

not

attempt to

seldom straight, but lay with a knife in the

of

cardboard

;

way

split

the

it

down upon

in

which you

then break

it

or continue cutting until the piece

along the is

cut in

you use a saw, cut a little away from the outlines work and then trim up with a knife and sandpaper. The wagons, Jack-in-the-box, and doll furniture shown

two.

If

of the

in this chapter

were designed with the idea of saving as 191


192

much

cutting as possible, and you will see

many

trations that in

a

by the

illus-

cases the boxes are not altered.

The Express-Wagon shown in Fig. 284 is made out of long flat box. Cut down the sides at the front and con-

struct a seat

on top

Cut the front wheels about i\ inches rear wheels

in

If

to describe the circles,

out ~"77

seat

the

in Fig.

286.

diameter and the

about 2! inches in diameter.

compass with which

\T~

shown

of the sides as

you haven't a you can mark

wheels with cups or

tumblers. Cut the wooden axles as shown in Fig. 286, making the front axle gl ass

—

'>2ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ&ZZ2%ZZZZZ%Z%ZZE.

for the smaller wheels front axle

I

Rear Axle

— deeper

than the rear one, then fasten

them

to the

wagon and

nail the

CENTeR-UNE-*]

Fig.

286.

— Cross-Section

the

tack

into

the

wagon-box and

you have a small toy horse

or, if

Drive a

wheels to their ends. of

front tie

the

of

a cord to

fasten a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as

shown upon the two-wheel cart. The Cart in Fig. 285 is made out with

its

Make

is

box side.

the wheels about 2§ inches in diameter. (Figs. 287

and

288.

See Front-

two boxes 8^ inches long, 5 inches wide, and You will see by the illustrations that one inverted upon the other. Before fastening them

ispiece) requires

2\ inches deep. is

of a square flat

wheels fastened to the center of the under

The Auto Delivery -Wagon

box

it,

to hitch to the wagon,

Fig. 285. Fig. 284.

An Express-Wagon.

Fig. 285.

A

Cart.

HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS together,

remove the two ends

rear end of the lower

193

upper box and the

of the

box (leaving the front end

dashboard), and cut 2 inches off the sides at the front

additional piece

upper box

for

1

by

inch

windows.

for the

and an

if inches from the sides of the

Fasten the boxes together by

nailing strips to the ends of side pieces.

Nail a narrow strip

across the top of the rear end of the

wagon and hinge a

drop end-gate to the wagon-bed with cloth

Sup-

strips.

Tack a curtain

port the end-gate with a cloth strap.

of

black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain, so that

shown

it

in the photograph.

may be Make

fastened up in a

roll,

as

the wheels and axles like

those of the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels, also the two axles, of equal size.

steering-wheel and fasten

the dashboard. to the seat, of the

A

wagon

Make

it

Cut out a small

on a short wooden rod inside

and then fasten the seat between the just

of

a seat and seat back, nail the back sides

below the windows. is a simpler toy to make The box should measure about

Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 289)

than you might imagine. 5! inches by 5! inches by the top with two pieces

of

5 inches.

heavy cloth

Hinge the cover to ;

glue one piece to

the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the outside.

Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and

below

it

fasten a small

hook on

to the

box

;

the hook

may

be bent from a short piece of wire.

A spiral body, but

spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's if

you cannot get one

of these

it is

a simple


194

matter to make a spring.

Take a

piece of No. 12 gauge

wire about 10 feet in length and wind

it

around a

rolling-

is cylindrical and about 2J inches in Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks

pin or anything that diameter.

upon a piece

of

wood cut

to

290), then procure a small

fit

the inside of the box (Fig.

doll's head, baste

a circular piece

cardboard to the top of the spring and to this sew the

of

Make

head. glue

hair entirely, to

fit

a cloth fool's cap to

on Jack's head, covering his

and

also a loose jacket

over his spiral body

;

for these

use any bright-colored cotton cloth that will

fall

Tack the bottom

into folds easily.

the base of the spring to of the box.

Make Fig. 297.

Leg

of

Din

ing-Table.

the seat for

The Round-Seated Chair shown

Fig. 296.

Pedestal of

Fig. 291

2

in

inches in diameter, the

Center-Table.

back

5 inches high, 2 inches

the top, and i| inches wide at the seat

2§ inches high

by

;

wide at

cut the front leg

i| inches wide.

The Round Center-Table (Fig. 292) should have a base up of four strips as shown in Fig. 296. Cut the cir-

built

cular top 5 inches in diameter.

A

saucer

may

be used

with which to mark this out. Select a long flat

box

for

The Dining-Table shown in Fig. 293, and after making four built-up legs as shown in Fig. 297 fasten them

Fig. 292.

Fig. 289.

A

Jack-in-the-Box.

A Round Center-Table.

FlG-

290.— The Skeleton of

THE JACK-IN-THE-BOX.

Fig.

294.— A Square-Seated Chair,

HOME-MADE CIGAR-BOX TOYS

195

into the four corners of the box table top with brads

and

glue.

In making the

little

Square-Seated Chair inches wide

(Fig. 294),

cut the seat about

by 2\ inches deep, the front

2

legs 2\ inches high

f inch wide, and the back legs 4^ inches high by f inch Brace the legs and back with crosspieces, and you wide.

by

will

have a very firm and

dining-room chair.

artistic

box about 9 inches by making

Select a size for

The

Doll's Cradle

rockers

by the pattern

shown

in

by 2\ inches

inches

5

Fig.

295.

in

Cut the two

in Fig.

298 and fasten them to the

bottom

box

of the

inch from \^

1

Use the rim

the ends.

of a

breakfast plate in drawing the r

, .

,

t

arc of the rockers

;

Fig.

j

.

then draw

208.

— Pattern

for

Cradle

Rockers,

the rounded ends, being care-

them

ful to get

alike.

Saw out

the rockers very partic-

ularly so as not to split off the ends.

Fasten the pieces to

the cradle box with brads driven through the box bottom into their top edge.

After the cigar-box toys have been made, rub

wood with

the surface,

the

wood

sandpaper.

fine

fill

up the

surplus

oil

drive

all

down

Apply the

with a dry cloth.

and oil

finish

the

nail-heads below

holes with putty stained to

as nearly as possible,

boiled linseed-oil. all

Then

match

with two coats of

with a rag, then wipe

off

CHAPTER XIX HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS All that

is

required for making the

little

toys shown in

this chapter are spools, cardboard, paper, a straight-grained

stick out of

which to cut pegs, some tacks,

Fig. 299.

pins,

and

glue.

— Doll Carriage.

Did you ever see a better model of A Baby Carriage than that shown in Fig. 299, with its rounded ends, arched bottom, and adjustable hood ? It is easy to make. Figure 300 shows the details for constructing the carriage 196

HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS Cut four wooden pegs

body.

four spools of equal so

when

size,

to

5

of the right length

slipped into the holes their ends will project about

inches long

Fig. 302

by the width

Then

cut the bottom strip

of the spools,

bend

it

slightly

Fig. 301

Figs. 300-302.

as

loosely in the holes of

and make them

J inch beyond the spool ends.

B

fit

197

Details of Doll Carriage.

shown, to give a curve to the carriage bottom, and

tack the ends of the strip to two of the spools (A).

The

sides

C

are of cardboard

and should be i| inches

wide at the widest point, by the length of the carriage body.

Punch

holes through these side pieces in the right places

for the ends of the pegs in spools

A

to stick through.

Before fastening the side pieces to spools A, you must attach the wheels (Figs. 301 and 302).

Cut the cardboard


198

uprights

D

3^ inches long and J inch wide

;

then after

cutting holes through each near the ends, for the spool pegs to slip through, cut

about J inch

down

the width between the holes to

Slip the lower

(Fig. 302).

Fig.

ends of uprights

D

304

Fig. 3°5

Baby Carriage Hood. Diagram of Hood. Carriage Handles.

over the pegs in spool wheels E, then the upper ends over the pegs in spools A.

Glue the upper ends to the ends of

C

over the pegs of

made

of a piece of stiff

spools A, then slip the carriage sides spools A,

The

and glue them

in place.

carriage hood (Fig. 303

paper about 4J inches square

)

is

(Fig. 304), slashed in three

HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS

199

places along two opposite edges for a distance of about

ij inches,

and then folded over as indicated by dotted

Bring together the ends of the slashed edges of the

lines.

piece of paper, as

shown

and press together

them with glue, has dried. Punch a hole

in Fig. 303, coat

until the glue

through each side of the top, as shown, for the projecting ends of the spool peg to slip through.

The carriage handle

is

made

of

two cardboard strips (F, Fig. 305),

and a

Stick match (G). the match through holes

made near

the

ends of strips F, and glue the lower ends of

the strips to the

inside

face

sides

(Fig.

This

of

the

299).

completes

Fig. 307

the

Fig. 306.

—The Two-Wheel

Fig. 307-309.

Cart.

— Details of Cart.

carriage.

The Two-Wheel Cart

(Fig. 306) is

made

of a small

box

cover, and one of the spools on which crochet-cotton comes.

Prepare a bent piece of cardboard 308, with ends will

A

turned

down

like that

shown

in Fig.

at the proper points so there

be only room enough between them for the spool to

turn freely.

Punch

a hole through each turned

down end


200

for a stick axle to

the box cover the

run through.

Then

same distance apart

cut two slots through as ends

A

(Fig. 307),

Fig. 31:

Fig. 311

— Merry-go-round. Fig. 311. — Teeter. Fig. 312. — Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter.

Fig. 310.

centering the pair both crosswise and lengthwise of the cover,

A

and

stick ends

through the

slots

and glue portion

B

Cut

to the cover.

the wheel axle enough smaller than the

spool

hole

the spool will easily,

so

turn

then push

it

through the hole in Fig.

313.

— Boy

the and Girl Riders round and Teeter,

for

spool

and the

Merry-go-

holes in ends A.

HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS Glue the end

of a

201

cardboard strip to the under side of the

cover for a shaft.

The Toy Merry-go-round in heavy cardboard turned up at center to the end

its

Fig. its

310 consists of a strip of

ends (Fig. 312), tacked at

of a stick cut small

enough to turn

easily in the hole in a spool. -

The

spool

the stick

is

right

hand,

hand

starts

by

and

the

left

merry-go-

the

it

in

mo-

twirling the stick to

which the cardboard is

3i5

grasped by the

round and keeps tion

Fig-

over

slipped

strip

fastened.

The boy and girl riders, shown in Fig. 313 are of the right size so you can trace them off upon a piece of tracing-paper and then transfer to cardboard. After cutting them out of the

cardboard,

color

Fig.

Fig. 314. Fig. 315.

both

sides with crayons or water-colors,

turned-up ends of the cardboard

The Teeter-Board

— Detail of Swing.

and glue them

to the

strip.

(Fig. 311) is

made

of the

same kind

merry-go-round

(Fig. 312).

this strip at its center to the side of a spool,

and mount

of a strip as that used for the

Tack

314

—Doll Swing.

the spool in a cardboard frame in the same

way

that the

;


202

spool wheels of the cart are

mounted

308 and 309)

(Figs.

but make the peg axle to

and

girl rider similar to

for the

The

merry-go-round teeter

is

tight

fit

Prepare a boy

in the spool hole.

those

made

(Fig. 313).

operated by turn-

ing the end of the spool axle

way then the other. The Doll Swing shown

first

one

in Fig.

314 has a cardboard base, with two spools fastened to

it

4 inches apart

to support the framework.

Tack

the base to the ends of the spools.

The framework uprights are

Fig. 317

Figs. 316

—

and 317. Details Swing Seat.

of

rolled

tubes of paper

10

tightly

or

12

inches long, and the top crosspiece is

another paper tube 4 inches long.

Stick

ends of the uprights into the spool holes the

crosspiece

their tops

;

the

lower

then fasten

to

by run-

ning pins through it

and into the up-

right ends (Fig. 315),

and then

lashing the connections with thread as

shown

Fig. 31

in Fig. 314.

The swing

seat

is

made

of a spool with a

cardboard

HOME-MADE SPOOL AND CARDBOARD TOYS back fastened to

it

316 and 317).

(Figs.

203

Suspend the

spool with thread from the top of the swing crosspiece.

A

Sofa with arm that

rolls, like

shown a good

in Fig. 318,

is

example

what can

be

of

made

spool-

in

and-cardboard

doll

Prepare

furniture.

Fig. 321 Fig.

the seat and back out

Figs. 319-321.

of a single piece

320

— Details of Sofa.

of

cardboard, curving the top and ends of the back as shown,

and making the width of the spool arms.

Fig. 323

of the seat the

Fasten the spools by means of a strip

Square Center-Table.

Fig. 324.

Fig. 322.

of

same as the length

— Round Center-Table.

Chair.

paper bent over them as shown in Fig. 320, and

glued to the seat. 321)

for

feet,

Use small silk-thread spools

and glue them

to

the

(Fig.

seat at the four

corners.

The Chair

(Fig. 322)

has a seat and back

made out

of a

204


single piece of cardboard, with one-third of its length bent

out for the seat.

Glue the seat to a spool base.

The Square Center-Table cotton spool pedestal, and board.

its

is

323) has a crochet-

a square piece of card-

Glue the spool to the exact center of the top.

The Round Center-Table Use the rim

With a

many

(Fig.

top

of a

little

(Fig. 324) is

made

similarly.

cup for marking out the circular top.

ingenuity you will be able to devise a great

other pieces of doll furniture, and other toys as well.

CHAPTER XX A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX

Who

wants

to play at being

Uncle Sam, and have a

postal system right in the house, or out on the front porch

where

it will

enjoy

it,

postman,

too

be convenient for the children next door to ?

Every small boy and girl loves to play from the toy mail-box, cancel the

collect mail

stamps, sort out the letters into the proper routes, and

whom

then deliver them to those

The mail-box shown

in Figs. 325

they are addressed

and 326

is

easily

to.

made,

and with

The Working Material on hand can be completed evening.

Two

sheets of cardboard,

silver

long,

and a needle and thread, are required.

paper or paint, a piece of tape about

stiff

enough

an

a piece of muslin,

some

board should be

in

to hold its shape,

2

yards

The

card-

and yet be

enough weight to cut and fold easily. Sheets 22 by 28 inches can be bought at any printing-shop, and at some stationery stores, and will not cost more than 10 cents a sheet at the most. If you have some large cardboard boxes, however, you can use them instead by so laying of light

inches

out the different parts that the corners of the boxes will

come

in the right places for the corners of the mail-box. 205


206

Figure 327 shows the diagrams for

Making

the Sides, Ends, and Bottom of the mail-box,

with the dimensions of every portion marked upon them.

V*j

Fig. 328

CO

£

TOP

tO

<£ 3"

7"

Fig. 329

Fig.

330

to

10"

—

FLAP

FLAP

-J f

% 7$

FRONT

END'

-k\l

END

I

BACK

.

!

in

^f"

1

6"

1

—

CM

6'

-

Fig. 327 (0

BOTTOM

BOTTOM

CD

9"

9'

Fig. 327. — Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-Box. Fig. 328. — Diagram Making Top. Fig. 329. — Diagram for Making End Pieces Letter-Drop. Fig. 330. — Diagram Making Front Piece of Letter-Drop. for

of

for

Use a

ruler with

straight lines,

which to guide your pencil

and a compass or the rim

for describing the arcs for the

You

will see that the front,

round tops

in

drawing the

of a 9-inch plate

of the

end

pieces.

one end, and the bottom are

A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX

made

207

and that the back, other end, and a

in one piece,

second bottom (to make that portion doubly strong) are cut from another piece.

The dotted

lines

upon

the diagram indicate where the

cardboard should be Figure 331 shows

folded.

the sides, ends, and bot-

tom

folded

put

together.

flaps inside,

to the

end

ready

to

Turn

;

pieces,

also

the

and glue them

and glue

the two bottom pieces gether

be

to-

Fig. 331.

— The Sides, Ends, and Bottom,

folded ready to be put Together.

sew the card-

board with a double thread to make the joining doubly secure.

The Top

of the

Box

— the

diagram

for the cutting of

which Fig. 332

Fig. piece

Fig. 333

cut out on

Fig. 335

— Top, showing how Portion Bent up for Back of Letter-Drop. Fig. 333. — Ends Letter-Drop. Fig. 334. — Front of Letter-Drop. Fig. 335. — Top, with Letter-Drop Completed. Fig. 332.

is

of

shown

is

in Fig. 329,

shows how

and

shown in has a

328 3 by

— 7

inches

all

but one

and bent

long

side,

up

form the top

to

of

The Letter-Drop The

(Fig. 332).

gram

for the

dia-

ends of

the letter-drop

for the front in Fig. 330;

cloth flaps are glued to the end piece

;

is

Fig. 333

and

Fig.


208

335 shows the box

how

the end pieces are fastened to the top of

by means

Glue a strip of cloth to

of these flaps.

each side of the lower edge of the letter-drop front piece for hinges (Fig. 334),

other to the

and glue one to the inside and the

outside of the top of the box (Fig. 335).

Attach rubber-bands to the front and ends of the drop

make

to

it

spring shut. Glue and sew the top of the

box to the Fig. 336

flaps

provided on the front and

back

for

the

purpose.

Figure

336

shows the dia-

gram for The Collec-

Fig. 338

Fig- 337

— Diagram Making Collection-Drop. Folded. Fig. 337. — How the Collection-Drop Place. Fig. 338. — The Collection-Drop Hinged Fig. 336.

tion-Drop, and

for

is

Fig.

in

it

Hinge the drop to the box with a cloth Reinforcement. far,

cut a

number

When

the

force the corners with them. of tape,

box

to

it

up by.

looks folded.

finished thus

inch wide and rein-

Then take

which you procured, and sew

hang

1

how

strip (Fig. 338).

work has been

of strips of muslin

337

it

the 2-yard length to the

back

of the

;

A HOME-MADE TOY MAIL-BOX Covering the Box. finish for the mail-box,

but you

may

on with

makes the

and can be bought

nicest

of a stationer

paint the cardboard with aluminum radiator

paint instead it

paper

Silver

209

if

you

prefer.

If

you use

silver paper, stick

flour paste.

After the paper or paint has dried, paste

A You

Collection Schedule

Card upon the front

of the box.

will need, also, to

Letter the words, " Pull

" Letters," etc., where

Down,"

they are shown in the illustrations.

Hang up

the Mail-Box

by means

of its tape strap, within

easy reach, upon the face of a door (Fig. 325), or to the back of a chair (Fig. 326).

For a Mail-Bag use a school-book bag, or make one just a real postman's out of brown denim or cambric. Letter " U. S. Mail " upon the bag with black paint, or like

cut the letters from black or white muslin and glue place.

them

in

Provide a long strap to reach over the postman's

shoulder.

The Way

to

Play Post-Office

is

for several children to

attend to the writing of letters and wrapping of parcels,

another to play mail clerk, mail and sorts

it

who puts

the post-marks on the

out into " routes " and another to play

postman. Canceled stamps from old play

letters,

may

be re-used on the

and a rubber-stamp dater such

the stationer's for 10 cents

post-marks.

letters

may

as they sell at

be used for printing the

CHAPTER XXI A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE This is

reflecting lantern,

more magical

shown completed

in its operation

in Fig.

339,

than a magic-lantern

is,

because, instead of Fig- 340

V

projecting through

transparent it

slides,

opaque

reflects

That

pictures.

makes to

magazine

use

and

possible

it

newspaper post

pictures, cards,

and photo-

graph prints. You may

reflect a

greatly

enlarged

picture

of

the

movements of your watch, and by placFig. 339

— The Complete Reflectoscope. Ventilator Top. Fig. 340. — Detail

Fig. 339.

of

ing in the reflectoscope,

ing your face against the open-

you may show a view

of

your

A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE

mouth opening and which

slides are

2IT

The

closing, giant size.

ease with

obtained makes this a desirable lantern

to own.

The Material. You must get a box about 10 by 10 by 20 inches in size for the case of

the refiectoscope, two oil-lamps, or

or

two 16

candle-power

32

lamps

electric

with Fig. 341.

the

parts

for connecting 1 -lb.

— Plan of Refiectoscope.

necessary

them

to the electric lighting circuit, three

baking-powder cans and two tomato cans, two pieces of tin

about 6 by 10

inches in

field glass,

Jg„;

and a

size,

from

lens

camera,

a

opera

glass,

magic-lantern or bicycle-lamp.

:â

The bottom box

r — Cross-section

be the front

Cut the Lens Opening

through

a

trifle

trifle

this,

at

of Refiectoscope.

the center of

and a

the

of the refiectoscope.

I

Fig. 342.

will

of

above the center

larger than the lens.

of its width.

its

Make

length,

the hole

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR

212

Cut Ventilator Holes

uppermost

GIRLS

3 inches in

AND BOYS

diameter through the

side of the box, near to the ends

and bottom.

Figures 341 and 342 show

The

Interior

Arrangement

of the rerlectoscope.

Place

the lamps in the corners of the box, next to the front, and

tack in back of them the pieces of tin for reflectors (A, Figs. 341 If Oil

and

Bend

342).

Lamps

the reflectors to the curve shown.

are Used, their tops will project through the

ventilation holes, as

shown

in Fig. 342.

must be inclosed with A Hood which will Conceal the

These openings

Light, yet allow the heat

to escape. The most satisfactory arrangement is that shown in Figs. 339 and 342. A baking-powder can with its bottom removed (B) is slipped over the lamp chimney and fitted into the ventilation hole; then a tomato-can (C) is inverted over the top of the can and fastened in the slotted ends of three wooden peg stilts (D, Fig. 340), and the pegs are fitted into holes made in the top of the box Fasten the can in the slots of the (Figs. 339 and 342). stilts

with tacks (Fig. 340).

If Electric

omitted.

lamp

is

Used, the hooded ventilators

Any boy who

sockets, plugs,

up the

understands the wiring of

and drop-cord

will

know how

may

be

electric-

to wire

rerlectoscope.

Mount 343).

Light

If

the Lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket (Fig.

you use a can, remove the bottom.

make

If the lens

a band of cardboard strips to

is

smaller in diameter,

fit

around the edge, as shown

in Fig. 344,

and glue these

A HOME-MADE REFLECTOSCOPE strips to the inside of the

jacket should

opening so

loosely

fit

will slide

it

The

lens

in the reflectoscope

box

can or mailing-tube.

enough

back and forth

for focusing.

around the jacket, and tack

tin collar to

fit

of the box,

to pre-

vent light from

213

it

Make

a

to the front

es-

caping (Fig. 339). Before putting on

back

the

the

of

reflectoscope box,

Putty up all Cracks between the

boards in the

top

and

make

to

front,

box

the

light-tight

then

;

Paint the Inside

Box

the

of

the

cover

with

and

boards

thinned

with

tur-

pentine, so there will

Fig. 346

lamp-black

be

no

reflec-

tions other than those

Fig.

344

— Details of Lens Mounting. — View of Back of Reflectoscope. Fig. 346. — Detail of Post Card Holder.

Figs. 343 and 344. Fig. 345.

produced by the lamp

reflectors

and

the picture.

Nail the

Back Boards

in Place, leaving

an opening about

7

inches square directly opposite the lens.

of

board to

fit

this

opening (E, Fig. 345) for

Cut a piece

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND- BOYS

214

The Picture Holder, and hinge

it

A

in place.

frame

for

post cards to slide in should be fastened to the picture holder, as

shown

in Fig. 346.

A

little

F

to

board

them so their edges project over wooden button (H, Fig. 345) will fasten

E, then tack strips strips F.

G

First nail strips

to

the holder board shut while each picture

is

being projected.

The Lens Reverses Pictures in projecting them, and in them projected right-side up on the screen it necessary to slip them into the holder frame upside down.

order to have is

Adjustments.

you may find

it

After you have built your reflectoscope,

does not throw sharply-defined images upon

your projection screen.

In that case you must readjust the

lamp

focus of the lens, the curve of the

reflectors,

and

the distance between the lens and the projection screen,

Inasmuch

until the best possible results are obtained.

the positions will vary with different lenses,

it is

for

me

will

have to determine the distances yourself.

The will

be

to give

any hard and

measurements.

fast

as

impossible

You

stronger the light, the brighter the projected image ;

therefore, use the strongest light

place the lantern not more than five feet

you can

away from

get,

and

the screen.

Unless you use an anastigmat lens such as the better

grade of cameras are fitted with, you will discover that the corners of pictures are indistinct

the centers to a sharp focus. corrected to a great extent

when you have brought

This indistinctness can be

by blocking out the holder

to

curve the post cards and other pictures so that the ends are closer to the lens than the center

is.

INDEX Cigar-boxes, to prepare, for use, 175.

Cigar-box toys, 191. Clock, a grandfather's, 182. Clock wheel top, 81. Clockwork automobile, 104. Clockwork automobile delivery wagon,

Airships," clockwork "flying, 102. Animal targets for toy shooting gallery, 142.

Apartment

building, doll, 165.

112.

Automobile, clockwork, 104.

Clockwork Clockwork Clockwork Clockwork

Automobile delivery wagon, clockwork. 112; cigar-box, 192.

B

speed

Baby

Ballast, toy elevator, 63.

Balusters, doll-house stairway, 154. Battery, a bi-chromate of potash, 135. portieres, doll- house, 157. Beds, doll-house, 183, 187. Bi-chromate battery fluid, 136. Boat, toy motor-, 33. kite, 12;

of, 103.

Cradle, doll's, 195. Cricket-rattle, 75. Curtains, doll-house, 157.

Box-kite, 12.

Malay

merry-go-round, 89. motors, 89, 97; increasing

Clog-dancer, toy, 72. Control, toy elevator, 65. Cosey-corner, doll-house, 158. Counter-balance, 61, 69.

Bead

Buzz-saw

"flying airships," 102.

Clockwork railway, 116. Clockwork toys, 88.

carriage, doll, 196.

Bridle,

Ferris wheel, 96.

box-kite, 16.

whirligig, 71.

L)

Decorating, doll-house, 156; doll apartCables, toy elevator, 61, 69;

electro-

magnet derrick, 123. Cardboard toys, 196.

ment, 173. Delivery-wagon, clockwork automobile, cigar-box, 192. 112 Derrick, electro-magnet, 117. Doll apartment building, 165. ;

Carpets, doll -house, 157. Carriage, doll baby, 196. gondola, 52; Cars, toy railway, 50; street, 52; other forms of, 56; elevator, 60, 68, 150; Ferris wheel, 99. Cart, cigar-box, 192 cardboard, 199. Chairs, cigar-box, 176, 194, 195; card-

furnishing the, 156. Doll-house, 145 Dresser, doll, 185, 189. ;

;

board, 203. Chauffeur for clockwork automobile, 111.

Egg-beater motor-winder, 31. Electrical toys, 117.

Electric

21S

motor truck,

toy, 132.

;

INDEX

2l6 Electro-magnet, 118. Electro-magnet derrick, 117.

J Jack-in-the-box, cigar-box, 193.

Elevator, model aeroplane, 25. Elevators, toy, 59. Elevator, toy office building, 59; doll-house, 148. outdoor, 67

an

Jumping-Jack, 74. Jumping- Jack operated by windmill,

7.

K

;

Enlarging by squares, 175. Express-wagon, cigar-box, 192.

Kite, a

Malay, 9; a box-,

Kite-reel, a hand, 17

;

12.

a body, 19.

Feed-hoist, toy stable, 163. Feed-troughs, toy stable, 162.

Launching a model aeroplane,

Ferris wheel, clockwork, 96.

Lighting fixtures, doll apartment, 171.

Fin,

model aeroplane,

Fireplace, doll apartment, 171. Fixtures, doll apartment lighting, 171. Floors,

toy

building,

office

31.

26.

hard-

59;

M Magnet,

electro-, 118.

wood, for doll-house, 157. "Flying airships," clockwork, 102.

Mail-bag, toy, 209.

Flying-line for kites, 12.

Malay

Folding-bed, doll, 187. Furniture, cigar-box, 174, 194; board, 203. Fuselage, model aeroplane, 22.

Mail-box, toy, 205. kite, 9.

Mantel, doll apartment, 171. card- Mechanical toys, 71. clockwork, Merry-go-round, top, 85 89; cardboard, 201. ;

Mirror, doll-house, 181.

Mission furniture, Gable-ends, doll-house, 151

;

toy stable,

161.

Garage, toy

Gondola

Model aeroplane, motors

for,

doll, 174.

propellers for, 27; 29; motor-winder for, 31 21

;

launching a, 31. Motor-boat, toy, 33. Motors, clockwork, 89, 97; increasing speed of, 103. Motors, model aeroplane, 29; winder

(see Stable).

car, 52.

Grandfather's clock, 182. Guides, toy elevator, 61, 69, 150.

for, 31.

H

Motors, water- (see Water-Motor). Motor, toy motor-boat, 37. Hand-rail, doll-house stairway, 153. Horses for merry-go-round, cardboard, Motor truck, toy electric, 132. Motor-winder, egg-beater, 31. 86, 92.

House, 156;

doll-,

doll

145

;

furnishing the doll-, furniture

apartment, 165;

for doll-, 174, 194, 203.

N Newel-post, doll-house stairway, 153.

O Induction-coil, 126.

Interrupter, shocking-machine,

29.

Office building elevator, toy, 59.

;;.

;;

INDEX

217

Stable, toy, 160. Partitions, toy office building, 60;

house, 145

;

doll-

stable stall, 162.

Pictures, doll-house, 158.

Pinion-wheel windmill, Pinwheel, a paper, 1.

Stairway for doll-house, 152, 154. Station for toy railway, 57. Straw portieres, doll-house, 158. Street car, toy, 52.

2.

Swing, doll, 202. Switch, electro-magnet derrick, 121.

Pistol, toy, card-shooting, 143.

Planes, model aeroplane, 24. Portieres, doll-house, 157. Post-office with mail-box, to play, 209.

Primary

coil, induction-coil, 127.

Propeller-shaft,

model

aeroplane,

29

Tack

top, 82.

Targets, toy shooting gallery, 142.

toy motor-boat, 35. Propellers,

card-

Tables, cigar-box, 179, 180, 194; board, 204.

model aeroplane,

Teeter-board, 201.

27.

Thrust bearings, 23, 35. Top, clockwork, 81

Propeller, toy motor-boat, 35.

Pulley-wheel, 42, 45, 62, 151.

;

rug- tack,

82; spinning, racetrack, spiral, can, shoe-polish 83; merry-go-round, 85. spool,

R Race-track, spinning- top, 82. trolley-line for, 47 Railway, toy, 47 power for, 49; tracks for, 50; cars ;

50; gondola car for, other cars for, car for, 52 for,

;

tion of, 56; work, 116.

station for,

Rattle, cricket, 75. Reel, a hand kite-, 17; Reflectoscope, 210.

a

82 82; 85;

Tops, 79. Track, spinning- top race, 82. Tracks, toy railway, 50. 52; street Treads, doll-house stairway, 153. 56 operaTrolley-line, toy railway, 47. 57; clockTroughs, toy stable feed-, 162. Truck, toy electric motor, 132. Turtle toy, 76.

body

;

kite-, 19.

V

Riders for merry-go-round, 86, 94.

Varnish-can water-motor, 38.

Risers, doll-house stairway, 153.

W

Rugs, doll-house, 157. Rug-tack top, 82.

Wagon, cigar-box

S

express-, 192.

Wardrobe, doll, 190. Wash-stand, doll, 186. Water-motor, a varnish-can, 38 form of, 42. Wheel, clockwork Ferris, 96. Wheel, water-motor, 39, 43.

Secondary-coil, induction-coil, 127. Settee, doll, 178.

Shocking machine, 124. Shoe-polish can top, 83. Shooting gallery, toy, 140.

;

another

Whirligig, a buzz-saw, 71.

Side-board, doll, 180. Sleighs for merry-go-round cardboard 93 Sofa, doll, 203. ,

,

Spinning- top race-track, 82.

Winder, model aeroplane motor-, ;

a four-blade,

Spiral top, 85.

4

;

an eight-blade,

jumping-Jack operated by a, 7. Window-shades, doll-house, 157.

Spool and cardboard toys, 196. Spool top, 82.

CEN

31.

Windlass, electro-magnet derrick, 123. Windmill, a paper, 1 a pinion-wheel, 2

I

5

;

V

kt

MAR 2 2 1930

I

home made toys

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