DEFECT CLASSSIFICATION – ZONES When inspecting garments for cleanliness and fabric flaws, the location of the defect and its effect on the appearance and performance performance of a garment garment must must be taken into consideration. Size and and severi severity ty also also have have an impact on the acceptab acceptabililitity. y. Defects which are noticeable on a garment but are not in the focal area of the garment may not be a cause for garment rejection rejection if the the garm garment’s ent’s performance, performance, fit fit or general general appearance appearance is not not impaired. Our Our standard defect classificati classification on for all merchandising categories; Fabric, Appearance, Color, Shade, Workmanship & Construction, Cleanliness and Packing is classified using zones.
Zero Tolerance – Zero Tolerance covers the entire garment and applies to any sharp objects or a chemical product that poses a safety hazard to the customers. (Example: broken needles, sharp burrs/hardware, harsh chemical reaction to the end end user). user). Zero tolerance tolerance will be classified classified under under CRITIC CRITICAL AL defect. CRITICAL DEFECT: A defect likely likely to result in a h hazardou azardous s or or unsafe unsafe condit condition ion for an individual individual using using the product product or fails fails to meet Governm Government mandatory mandatory regulations. regulations. One Cri Crititical cal Defect found found during the inspection inspection would would cause the final QA audit audit to fail. fail. The failure failure will be resulting resulting in a 100% 100%inspection by factory to remove remove all criti critical cal defect items prior to to re-inspection again by a 3rd party auditor or PacSun QA Manager.
PACSUN DEFECT CLASSIFICATION (IN-LINE & FINAL QUALITY INSPECTIONS) INSPECTIONS)
GENERAL DEFECTS FABRIC
REV: 12/1/2010
ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
1). Drill holes or pin holes (any (any size)
X
2). Visible Visible knots, slubs, pilling pilli ng and snags
X
X
3). Missing yarns
X
X
4). Fabric weight / oz different different from PacSun PacSun approved sample sample
X
5). Handfeel different different from from PacSun approved approved sample sample
X
6). Skewed/bowed by + 1/4"
X
7). Knitting/weaving defects/flaws
X
8). Misprint fabric fabric /printing /printing defects
X
9). Washing Washing marks marks (permanent creases)
X X
X X
ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
10). Foreign matter / yarn contamination -Obvious
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE
1). Shading or dye lot deviation deviation within garment garment panels 2). Shade or dye lot deviation deviation from garmen garmentt to garment wit within hin the shipment 3). Color bleeding or or staining 4). Plaids, checks, horizontal /vertical /verti cal stripes not not matching front within 1/8" 5). Plaids, checks, hori horizontal/vert zontal/vertical ical stripes stripes not not matching matching sideseams wit within hin 1/4" 6). Interlini Interl ining ng or fusible interfacing interfacing not not compatible patible to base fabric causing bubble or puckering
X
X X X X X
7). Misplaced embroidery/screen broidery/screen printing rinting by more than 1/4"
X X
8). Incorrect embroidery, color or silkscreen printing
X
9). Embroidery Embroidery /Silkscreen /Silkscreen pri printing nting letters letters or symbols less than 90%legible legible
X X
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
X
X
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE
ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
18). Bleach or stone marks on surface of garments garments
X X X X X
X
19). After wash wash streaks or striations striations (washing lines)
X
X
20). Press marks marks resulting resulting from clamps used during chemical chemical processing or hangers
X
21). Pressing-poorly pressed garments garments
X
14). Twisted legs over 1/2" (sideseam twist around around to the front of pant) . neven neven eg y more more t an 16). Ribbons, piping, lace, bows bows and draw strings missi missing ng 17). Shine marks on the surface
22). Pressing- absenceof pressing when when the seam, pleats or gatherings is is specified specified to the outside of the garment 23). Pressing-absence when when seamis specified specifi ed to the inside inside of of the garment garment
X X
24). Panels- Misaligned Misaligned front and back back panel panel more than 1/4"
X
25). Hi & LowFront pockets or flflaps aps not to exceed1/8"
X
26). Hi & Lowback pockets or flaps flaps not to exceed 3/16"
X
27). Back pocket smile over 1/8"
X
28). Pockets /Flaps with asymmetrical corners, shapes or position
X
29). Front & back pkts pkts slanted or flaps slanted by more than 3/16"
X
30). Mismatch Mismatch pocket 4 way p plai laid d not to exceed 1/8" 1/8"
X
31). Collar overlap not to exceed 1/8"
X
32). Collar overlap overlap on the bias not to excee exceed d 1/4"
X
33). Collar-point Collar-point button hi-low hi-l ow over 1/8" 34). Uneven Uneven cuff width width over 1/8"
X X
35). Left & right sleeve uneven uneven over over 3/8"
X
36). Seams twisted, puckered, or pleated affecting affecti ng appearance appearance
X
37). Edge Edge of of flap, fl ap, coll collar, ar, cuff, placket rolled up
X
38). Twisted Twisted cuff, lace, collar, turtle neck
X
39). Beltloop slanting ove overr 1/8"
X
40). Beltloop opening opening up to +- 1/8"
X
41). Locker loops, frt or centered beltloop misplaced by by more more than 1/4" from spec spec
X
42). Beltloop sideseam off spec by more than 3/8"
X
X
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
45). Inconsistent pleat depth- right right vs. left over 1/8"
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE
X ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
46). Waistbands istbands hi-low hi-l ow by more than 1/8" (button)
X
47). Uneven Uneven waist waistband band width by more than 1/8"
X
48). Zipper tape exposed exposed when the fly is closed
X
49). Hardware insecure or missing issing (snaps, (snaps, rivets, rivets, buttons, zipper slider…) slider…)
X
50). Uneven Uneven leg length between between L & Rnot to exceed 1/2" (pants) and 1/4" (shorts).
X
51). Misplaced rivets rivets & buttons up up to 1/8"
X
52). Misaligned Misaligned yokes at at the back rise, rise, frt rise rise not to exceed exceed 1/8"
X
53). Inconsistent zipper setting setting causing causing wavy wavy zipper
X
54). Side edge edge of pocket expose exposed d from under side side of flap up to 1/16"
X
55). Shoulder tape missi missing ng by by 1/2"
X
56). Missing or broken broken loops (sweater)
X
57). Loose floats floats (sweater)
X
58). Dust & yarn yarn ends on the inside & outsi outside de of garments garments (sweater)
X
59). After wash hand hand feel different different from from PacSun acSun approved approved standard
X
60). Distorted Distorted garment garment from excessive stretching during pressing or wash wash
X
61). Staining of pockets bags, garment garment or accessories accessories during during wet process (Re-Dip results) 62). Any area of the garment with holes due to needles needles or scissors scissors 63). Holes due to abrasive abrasive wash (not approved by PacSun)
X X X
64). Wash Standard Standard or color swatch outside of approved approved standard
X
65). Pile direction not not as specified specified
X
66). Label missing or or incorrect
X
67). Sagging Sagging or rolling roll ing frt pockets
X
68). Tread tension too tight that that create excessive puckering on seams and hems hems
X
69). Sweater Sweater should not have long float stitches sti tches that can be caught or broken when when
worn.
X
70). Sweater Sweater tensions too loose that reduces reduces the recovery recovery of shape shape
X
71). Sweater Sweater tensions too tight adding weight and stiffness stiffness to garment garment
X
72). Sweater, Sweater, fleece fl eece or Knit tops wit with h armhole shape shape showing showing a slight slight curve or or straight straight
X
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
74). Sweaters, Sweaters, fleece fleece or Knit tops peaking at shoulder point by more than 1/4"
APPEARANCE, COLOR, SHADE
75). Sweaters, Sweaters, Fleece or Knit tops tops can not not have shoulder shoulder seams fall back by more more than 1/4". 76). Sweater, Sweater, fleece, fleece, Knit tops tops must must have center front, center back and sideseams sideseams not pulling back or forward by more than 3/8". 77). Sweaters, Sweaters, Fleece ,Knit or woven tops cannot hick by more more than 1/2" 78). Misaligned Misaligned sleeve & sideseam junction junction up to 1/4" 79). Trims materials terials with wrong color, width or shape 80). Burn or or scorch marks marks
WORKMANSHIP & CONSTRUCTI CONSTRUCTION ON (SEAMS/STITCHING)
X ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
X X X X X X ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
1). Lock Sti Stitchestches- one brokenor skipped per operation operation
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
X
2). Lock Sti Stitchestches- two or more more broken or skipped per operation
X
3). Skipped or broken chain stitch/overl stitch/overlock ock stitch stitch
X
4). Skipped or broken cover stitch stitch one per operati operation on
X
5). Skipped or or broken cover stitch two or more more per operation
X
6). Any unraveling, unraveling, fray, fray, raw edges edges or seams visible visible before and after wash
X
7). Missing tacks and /or back stay stitch (unravels seam or loosen attachment) attachment)
X
8). Stitch Stitch repair that is not sewn exactly stitch stitch on stitch with an overlap rlap of of at least four stitches stitches at one end.
X
9). Improper stitch stitch repairs irs -obvious
X
10). Construct Construction ion not conforming conforming to spec (i.e. (i.e. wrong seamtype...) type...)
X
11). Ragged/Inconsistent Ragged/Inconsistent edge (seam is extremely ragged or rolls rolls inside the stitch) stitch)
X
12). Wavy seams-stretch s-stretch or non stretch fabrics fabri cs
X
13). Wrong Wrong color, type, size of thread
X
14). Disappeari Disappearing ng stitches in stretch stretch denim (thread (thread looks smaller aller on seams seams in wrap wrap direction than in the weft direction) 15). Thread tension were were it creates creates obvious obvious puckering or loose stitching stitching
X X
X
X
Minor-Inside seams
X X
Major if a deco stitch.
stitched stitched or tacked
WORKMANSHIP & CONSTRUCTI CONSTRUCTION ON (SEAMS/STITCHING)
19). Broken threads threads due to chemical chemical degradation degradation (harsh washes)
X ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
X
X
unless specified on Tech Pack/spec
bk pkt hems, btm hems.
20). Broken threads threads due to chemical chemical degradation degradation at non-functi non-functional onal panel panel
x
X
21). Broken stitches due to needle needle cutting ( wrong needle points, dull needles …)
X
X
22). Button hole incorrect direction/reversed directi on/reversed
X
23). Button hole too small or big for button type or diameter
X
24). Button hole hole stitch stitch broken broken or or skipped
X
25). Button hole slanted or off centered by more than 1/8"
X
26). Insecure button sewing
X
27). Loose or tight stitch sti tch tension of buttons &button holes
X
28). Zipper tape/teeth not flushed fl ushed to waistband waistband more more than 2 zipper teeth exposed
X
29). Missing or wrong placement placement care instructions/symbo instructi ons/symbols
X
30). Elastic seams uneven
X
31). Ribbons, piping, lace, bows and and draw strings stri ngs not not secured to garment garment
X
32). Label/s sewn with monofil monofilame ament nt yarn 33). Stitches Stitches per per inch (SPI) deviation of more more than plus plus one or minus one
X
34). Sweater Sweater /knitting /knitting not symmetricall etrically y balanced balanced
X X
35). Sweater/Knitt Sweater/Knitting ing yarn ends ends not dbl dbl knotted/secure
X
36). Sweater/Knitt Sweater/Knitting ing yarns wit with h yarns loose and not properly knitted/locked knitted/locked into seams
X
37). Sweater/Knitt Sweater/Knitting ing yarns not not tucked into seams neatl neatly. y.
X
38). Knits tops not symmetricall etrically y balanced at neck opening, opening, arm holes holes and frt panels
X
39). Bartacks missing, incorrect size, non-secured non-secured
X
40). Missing bar tacks, destruction destruction holes, additi additional onal stitches for aesthetics purposes purposes
X
41). Edge stitch stit ch margin margin unevenness unevenness
X
CLEANLINESS
unless specified on Tech Pack/spec
ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
1). Any tape, seconds seconds stickers or soabar left on garments garments (any vendor vendor /outside stickers stickers not allowed)
X
2). Any stains, spoilage, spoil age, spots spots or oil 3/8" or less
X
X
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
6). Chalk, pen pen or or pencil pencil marks visible visible
CLEANLINESS
7). Mildew or Heavily odor garments garments
X
X
ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
X
8). Spots & stains of a permanent permanent nature or those that when when removed removed leave a ring ring or other ring surface marks anywhere on the garment 9). Foreign matter - obvious (threads, fly fly yarns, debris sewn sewn in)
X X
X
10). Brass zipper, buttons, rivets leaving l eaving stains or contamination ination on on product product due to oxidation oxidation or or corrosion
PACKING, LABELS, TAGS
X ZONE A
ZONE B
MA JO JOR
MINOR
1). Missing or Wrong Wrong placement placement or Incorrect cart carton on stickers, hang tags, UPCtickets tickets
X
2). Incorrect folding folding /packing /packing
X
3). Damaged cartons, labels, labels, hang tags
X
4). Smeared Smeared barcodes or instructions instructi ons 5) . Insecure tape
X
6). Open or tampered tampered cartons
X
7). Incorrect size size cartons cartons
X
8). Incorrect quantit quantity y in cartons cartons
X
(Zone locations refer to defect ClassificationZones Process)
X
REV: 12/1/2010
PACSUN DEFECT CLASSIFICATION - ZONES
* Zone B areas are identified in below illustration; All other areas = Zone A (SKIRTS)
(HOODIES)
w b o l E o t B
B 2”
1 ”
B B
(SWEATERS)
b b o w t o E l
B
1”
1” B 5”
B B =Rib Height
B
B =Rib Height
(LONG SLEEVE SHIRTS)
1” 5”
t o o E l b b o w B
B
1”
w b o l E t o B
1”
1” B
5”
1” B
B
5” B
B 5”
1”
B 2”
1”
1”
t o E l b o w
5” B
t o E l b o B w
1 ”
PACSUN DEFECT CLASSIFICATION - ZONES
(Long Pants)
* Zone B areas are identified in below illustration; illustration; All other areas = Zone A (Shorts-Capris-Bermudas-Cut (Shorts-Capris-Bermud as-Cut Offs)
* Zone B will not apply to inseams that are shorter than “Above “Above the Knee” **All Other Inseam Lengths will follow the above illustration.
(Cami-Tank Tops)
(Short Sleeve-Long Sleeve)
