Patternmaking for Knits

PATTERNMAKING FOR KNITS: ESSENTIAL SLOPERS

with Judy Jackson Supply List

SUPPLIES • Straight pins • Plain or gridded pattern paper • Oaktag for slopers • Tape measure • French curve • Hip curve • 1/8" grid ruler • L-square • Paper scissors • Pencils • Pattern tracer (optional) • Fabric for testing torso sloper: jersey or interlock • Fabric for testing leggings sloper: 2-way stretch • Fabric marking tools

© Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

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Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy is not affiliated, associated, authorized, endorsed by or in any way officially connected with any of the products featured in this video. All product and company names, logos, brands, or other trademarks or images featured or referred to in this video are the property of their respective trademark holders. The use in this video of the products and any protected intellectual property is used for illustrative purposes, and no commercial claim to their use, or suggestion of sponsorship, affiliation or endorsement, is made by Sympoz Inc. d/b/a Craftsy.


with Judy Jackson Adapting Woven Patterns for Knits

QUICK WOVEN-TO-KNIT ADJUSTMENT GUIDE Remove wearing ease from woven patterns to make up in a knit fabric with at least 10% crosswise stretch. Bodices and dresses • Move side seam in ¼" (6 mm) • Raise waist and side dart ¼" (6 mm) • Raise waist dart apex ¼" (6 mm) • Raise armhole ½" (13 mm) at side seam • Raise neck ¼" (6 mm) at center front only

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Bodice

Sleeves • Move underarm seams in ¼" (6 mm) • Raise armhole ½" (13 mm) at underarm seam /"

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New biceps level

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Sleeve

CONTINUED > © Craftsy and Sympoz Inc.

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with Judy Jackson Adapting Woven Patterns for Knits

Skirts • Move side seam in ¼" (6 mm) • Raise hem ¼" (6 mm)

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Skirt Pants • Move inseam and outseam in ¼" (6 mm) • Raise crotch point ½" (13 mm) • Raise hem ¼" (6 mm)

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New crotch level

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Pant


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with Judy Jackson Knit Sleeve Sloper

KNIT SLEEVE SLOPER • This sloper is a plain set-in sleeve; the left half of the draft is the back of the sleeve. • True sleeve sloper to the armholes of the torso sloper to use them together. • Finding cap height: Reference chart on page 5. For sizes larger than 18 or smaller than 6, add or subtract 1/8" per size. Drafting Order 1. Establish center of sleeve with overarm length from shoulder (A) to wrist (B). Mark cap height (C) and elbow length (D) from (A). Square guidelines through (A), (B), (C), and (D). 2. Establish sleeve cap: Split bicep measurement over (C) and mark endpoints (D) and (E). Connect (A) and (C-D) with the back armhole measurement and make a mark (F). Mark midpoint of (D-F) as (G). Repeat for front half of sleeve cap on (C-E) to find point (H) and midpoint (I). Divide (A-G) and (A-I) in thirds.

A

C

D G F

J

H I E

D

K

3. Draft sleeve: Split elbow measurement over (D), marking endpoints (J) and (K). Split wrist measurement over (B), marking endpoints (L) and (M). Connect (G-L) and (I-M); lines should come near but do not need to pass through (J) and (K). 4. Draft sleeve cap: Use sloper armscye to create front and back underarm in lowest thirds of (AG) and (A-I). Use a curve to complete the sleeve cap. Final sleeve cap crosses the guidelines at the lower third marks and extends past the upper third marks by 5/8"–¾" (16 mm - 19 mm), flattening into a straight line through (A).

L

B

M

5. True armholes. Notch for front and back armhole at lower third marks and for center at (A).


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with Judy Jackson

Class Category

Knit Sleeve Sloper

3

1

4

2

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 5


SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHART Overarm Length (slightly bent) Shoulder-to-elbow Bicep (fullest part of the arm) Wrist Cap Height (see chart below) Front Armhole Measurement Back Armhole Measurement SIZE 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

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CAP HEIGHT 55/8" 5¾" 57/8" 6" 61/8" 6¼" 63/8"

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BACK

6

FRONT

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with Judy Jackson Knit Sloper Adjustments

KNIT SLOPER TO BOXY TOP • Use with firmer and more stable knits for loosefitting T shirts and jackets. • Adjust boxiness by varying amount of spread and armhole adjustment. • Make adjustments to back pattern and adjust neckline for front. • For sleeve, measure and note length of underarm seams of original sloper.

0-3"

A

F

2-3"

Torso Drafting Order 1. Trace back sloper. Draw a line parallel to CB from center of shoulder to hem. 2. Slash and spread up to 3" (7.6 cm). 3. Blend new shoulder line from neck to armhole. 4. Lower armhole 2"-3" (5 cm - 7.6 cm) and correct curve. Measure and note the new armhole length. D

5. Correct side seam, squaring from underarm.

0-3"

6. Trace for front and copy original front neckline. Sleeve Drafting Order 1. Trace back half of sleeve sloper onto folded paper, aligning center of sleeve on fold. Mark original shoulder (A), wrist (B), and bicep (C) along fold. Mark original end of wrist (D). 2. Establish sleeve cap: Mark a new bicep point (E) up from (C) by the amount you spread the torso sloper. Square a line through (E) for new bicep line. Connect bicep line with (A) using new armhole measurement and mark endpoint as (F).

A

F

E C

0-3"

3. Draft sleeve: Connect (D-F) for underarm seam. 4. Draft sleeve cap: Mark midpoint of (A-F) as (G). Use a curve to create sleeve cap from (F) to (A); final curve moves inside (F-G) by 1/8" (3 mm) and outside (A-G) by ¼" (6 mm), flattening into a straight line through (A).

D


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B


with Judy Jackson Knit Neckline Trim

NECKLINE TRIM PATTERN DEVELOPMENT • Knit trims for standard necklines are simple rectangles. • Measure and note combined front/back torso neckline measurement at the stitching line. If measuring from a completed pattern, deduct shoulder seam allowances. • Determine what style of trim first to calculate width; then decide on fabric to calculate length. • Use ¼" seam allowances on all trim patterns.

Width • Inserted/crew-neck trim width = finished width x 2 • Bound/scoop-neck trim width = finished width x 4 Length • Self fabric length = neckline measurement x .75 • Ribbing length = neckline measurement x .66

QUICK GUIDE WITH SEAM ALLOWANCES INSERTED TRIM

BOUND TRIM

SELF FABRIC

Width = (finished width x 2) + (¼" x 2) Length = (neckline x .75) + (¼" x 2)


RIBBING



Inserted Trim

Bound Trim


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with Judy Jackson Knit Pants Sloper

PULL-ON KNIT PANTS SLOPER • This pant hangs straight from the hip and fits loosely, with a pull-on elasticized waist. If you want a closer fit through the hip and waist, add darts and a zipper opening. • If you choose to omit waist shaping and your side seam is completely straight, you have the option of taping the front and back patterns together at the side and cutting each leg in one piece without a side seam. • If desired, taper to the ankle by angling the inseam and outseam from the crotch to the ankle.

A

x E B

C

Drafting Order 1. Trace skirt sloper front; extend base to desired pant length. Mark center front waist as (A). 2. Mark measured crotch depth, raise ¾" (19 mm), and establish new crotch depth. Mark crotch depth intersection with CF as (B). Make a reference mark (X) at midpoint of (A-B). 3. Draft crotch curve base: Measure front hip of pattern; divide by two and subtract ¾" (19 mm). Extend out from (B) by this amount. Mark endpoint of this line as (C), the crotch point. 4. Draft inseam and outseam: Square off (C) to hemline; continue skirt side seam to hemline; complete hem. 5. Draft crotch curve: Draw a diagonal line out from (B). Measure 1½" (38 mm) from (B) and mark as (E). Use a French curve to connect C, E, and X in a smooth curve. 6. Repeat Steps 1-5 for pant back, with two changes: In Step 3, extend the crotch curve base by ¾" (19 mm) more. In Step 5, mark (E) at 1¾" (44 mm) away from (B). 7. Check crotch length: Measure front and back crotch curves and add together; compare with original crotch length measurement. Adjust curves and extend C if necessary.


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with Judy Jackson

Class Category

Knit Pants Sloper

1. 2. 1 2 5 4

3. 4. 5.

PANTS MEASUREMENT CHART Crotch Depth (sit down on a straight surface and measure along the side from your waist to the table or chair you are sitting on) Crotch Length (measure between the legs from the front waist to the back waist) Inseam Front Hip Back Hip

3


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with Judy Jackson Knit Leggings Sloper

KNIT LEGGINGS SLOPER • This leggings sloper relies on stretch to fit the body very closely; use for two-way stretch knits only. • The legging has no side seams and is cut in two pieces for right leg and left leg. When drafting the sloper, the left half of the draft represents the back of the leg. • Using the sloper: Do not add seam allowance to the crotch and inseam; add hem allowances at the waist and ankle as desired.

6. Build front crotch curve: Mark 1" (2.5 cm) in from (J) and mark as (O); connect (L-O) in a straight line. Mark midpoint of (L-O) as (P); connect (P-J) with a curved line. 7. Build back crotch curve: Mark 2" (5.1 cm) in from (I) and mark as (Q); connect (N-Q) in a straight line. Mark midpoint of (N-Q) as (R); connect (R-I) with a curved line.

Drafting Order 1. Draft sloper guidelines: • Draft guideline for ankle to waist measurement; mark waist as (A) and ankle as (B). Left half of draft represents back of leg; right half of draft represents front. • Mark knee point as (C). • Mark thigh as (D). • Square through (B) and draft guideline for ankle. Mark back side endpoint (E) and front side endpoint (F). • Square through (C) and draft guideline for knee. Mark back side endpoint (G) and front side endpoint (H). • Square through (D) and draft guideline for thigh. Mark back side endpoint (I) and front side endpoint (J).

Back

N

A

Front L

R

I

Q

P

M

D

K

O

J

2. Draft leg: Connect (J-H-F) and (I-G-E) 3. Draft front rise: Mark front rise depth (K) along thigh from (J). Square through (K) and draft front rise; mark endpoint/center front waist as (L).

G

H

C

4. Draft back rise: Mark back rise depth (M) along thigh from (I). Square through (M) and draft back rise; mark endpoint/center back waist as (N), 5. Draft waist: Connect (N-A-L) in a smooth curve, squaring at center front and center back waist.

E

B

F


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with Judy Jackson

Class Category

Knit Leggings Sloper

1

2 9 3 8

4

6

10

7

LEGGINGS MEASUREMENT CHART Waist (at natural waist, or wherever you want the 1. leggings to reach) 2. Hip: (at fullest hip) Thigh (at fullest part, high up on the leg near the 3. crotch) 4. Knee (at the top of knee with your knee straight) 5. Ankle (at finished length) 6. Waist to Ankle 7. Ankle to Knee (on side) 8. Knee to Thigh 9. Front Rise 10. Back Rise Rise Depth: thigh – (waist ÷ 2) Front Rise Depth: rise depth x .33 Back Rise Depth: rise depth x .66

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Patternmaking for Knits

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