Conde Nast UK 12/14

NE INS W IDE HO TH TE E G LI R N EA LO TE ND ST ON

DECEMBER 2014

CARIBBEAN SPECIAL OUR ALL-TIME FAVOURITE SECRET PLACES TO STAY

MARRAKECH FOR LESS THAN £100 A NIGHT

ON HOLIDAY WITH +ALICIA KEYS +

+CHRISSIE HYNDE + +FLIGHT OF

WHY IT’S THE PERFECT LONG WEEKEND

THE CONCHORDS +

CAPE TOWN

NEW YORK SHOPPING

BRILLIANT ROUND-UP OF THE BEST INDEPENDENT BOUTIQUES

# THEONETHATIWANT

N5.CHANEL.COM

TAG HEUER CARRERA AUTOMATIC DIAMONDS Maria Sharapova never stops challenging herself. Like TAG Heuer, she keeps pushing her limits and never cracks under pressure. WWW.TAGHEUER.CO.UK

CONTENTS DECEMBER 2014

Features 84

Caribbean We find the small, under-the-radar hotels that will give you a fresh perspective on the islands – and often cost from less than £150 a night

96 Palermo

In this heart-melting city of raw emotion, beauty, passion and pathos, there’s always time for an ice cream

106

New York There’s no topping the shopping in this town: our retail-mad Manhattanite picks the best independent boutiques and eclectic emporiums

118

Tanzania It’s been hidden away for 20 years, but now a forgotten corner of one of Africa’s most spectacular game parks is open for cheetah-spotting

128

PHOTOGRAPH: OLIVER PILCHER

Porto Lisbon’s fun-loving little sister is turning into a seriously cool kid, with design shops everywhere you look and artists abandoning their Berlin lofts to move here

A cheetah at Namiri Plains camp in the Serengeti National Park, Tanzania December 2014 Condé Nast Traveller 7

“PLUME DE CHANEL” RING AND JEWELLED HEADPIECE WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS

26 OLD BOND STREET - LONDON W1 SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1

HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY & WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1

FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 www.chanel.com

CONTENTS

DECEMBER 2014

38

159

44 In this issue 16 Editor’s letter 20 Contributors 27 Word of mouth The places and people creating a buzz around the world, from Istanbul to Los Angeles

38 Short break With bright-blue skies and a fresh new creative energy, Cape Town is a jet-lag-free destination for a lovely long winter weekend

68

44 Snapshot Street art: once a badge of shame, now a municipal must-have

49 Where to stay An exclusive first look at the new Mondrian London; five stylish but affordable hideaways in Marrakech; Sally Shalam’s Great British Breaks; Bed-hopping with Jemaine Clement; The Weekender goes to Gloucestershire

138 On the cover Costa Careyes, Mexico (www.careyes.com.mx) Photographed by Richard Phibbs Hair by Halley Brisker Make-up by Carmindy Model, Reka at Storm Bikini by Kiini.com Bronze Goddess Self-Tan by Estée Lauder

10 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

62 Neighbourhood on the up Jalan Benda, South Jakarta’s boho boulevard of diners and designers

66 A letter from Berlin, where an Israeli pretzel-bar owner’s sense of belonging isn’t half-baked

68 Style file Miami’s coolest boutique owner, Copenhagen hotspots and more Beauty Superstar singer Alicia Keys Jewellery Vivid gems with a crystal-clear origin. Men’s Motorbiking across mighty Europe. On the scene Delaire Graff Estate, Stellenbosch

83 Trendwatch Single-minded retailers who only sell one thing

136 A traveller’s tales Around the world with rock star Chrissie Hynde

138 In Britain For wilderness with a personal touch, take the train up to the family-run Ardtornish estate in the western Highlands, a place where salmon swim and eagles fly high

159 The experts Family High jinks in the skyscraping city of Hong Kong. Books A gripping new account of the life of Lawrence of Arabia; plus, Tourist Information for Baskerville Hall. Gadgets The sleekest ways to travel light. Feasting A Cairo-inspired cumin dip and the aromatic wines to accompany it. Q&A How to coldproof your camera to shoot the Northern Lights, where to go winter walking, and other travel queries

188 Competition Win a £7,000 holiday in India with Oberoi Hotels & Resorts and Abercrombie & Kent

191 Reader offer Save more than £1,200 on a holiday for two at Angsana Laˇng Cô in Vietnam

208 Readers’ Travel Awards 2014 Our annual celebration for the best in the world

224 View with a room Sandat Glamping Tents, Pejeng Kawan, Bali

PHOTOGRAPHS: MATTHEW BUCK; SHANNA JONES; OLIVER PILCHER; THOMAS SANTALAB/IMAGEBRIEF.COM

49

SUBLIMAGE THE ESSENCE OF LIGHT

For CHANEL, light is at the heart of beauty. It reveals the singularity of every woman. With this new detoxifying essence, SUBLIMAGE concentrates the energizing benefits of light to better reveal the original radiance of every woman. The formula of SUBLIMAGE L’Essence combines the energizing properties of the light plant with the detoxifying properties of the golden flower of the Himalayas for ultimate detoxification. Inside the skin, Golden Champa PFA,* extracted from the golden flower, frees the cells of toxins and reactivates cellular dynamics. The light plant reinforces this detoxifying action with gentle and natural stimulation of epidermal revitalisation. Completely detoxified and powerfully re-energized, the skin appears in a new light. Its original purity, quality and luminosity are naturally revealed. Smoother and more even, the skin regains a texture that perfectly reflects the light. Its radiance is reborn. The singular radiance that gives each woman her confidence and beauty. Free of impurities, the skin is even more receptive to the ultimate revitalising power of SUBLIMAGE La Crème.

CHANEL.COM

Lady RM 016

EDITOR’S LETTER

I

may have a faint whiff of pretentiousness about me, but I don’t give a fig for opera. I just don’t get it. To listen to it, heaven. To watch it, awkward beyond words. Obviously I’d like to like going to the opera, just as I’d like to like reading Wallpaper* or eating risotto, but when push comes to shove – meh – it just doesn’t happen. Ballet, on the other hand, makes my tummy feel funny. I don’t know why I keep on underestimating everything, probably because the world has a bleakish tinge right now, so that everything I have in front of me feels like a rock that has to be grimly clambered over rather than a lovely smooth canoe to meander downstream in. But I do. Everything feels like a chore. Everything feels like a battle. And so it was that I steamed off to the Royal Opera House to see Manon when I really wanted to watch the semi-final of The Great British Bake Off, and then have a bath, a cup of Sleepytime tea, and up to bed. On the way there, I found out one of my children was stuck in Croydon after a tricky date with a Gruffalo, two of them had refused supper and the new car that had just been stolen may not have been insured. By the time I got to the Opera House it was raining and the heel on my shoe was broken so I was making an odd clicky-clacky sound on the pavement that seemed to be a metaphor for my own unevenness. But then there is something about the Royal Opera House. Its flags. Its Palladian pillars. The segmented blasts of light pouring out of the great windows of the Floral Hall. I hurried into the thick creamy twinkle of the foyer. And I remembered how much I loved the carpet (of all things) on the lovely sweep of stairs, and the wooden corridors of the theatre and the way they kind of lean in at an angle. And then, suddenly, the auditorium itself. The great, blood-red wave after wave of seats, all of them empty, looking askance at the stage like poppies peering towards the sun. The performance of Manon – I say in a knowingly affected way – was just Manon. The second act is written to be danced exactly as falling in love feels. And the end, when Manon dies in the arms of her lover in the swamp, is just a perfect thing, if done perfectly. She’s dying, so the dancer needs to be absolutely feeble, but it’s also a dramatic ending to a doomed love story, and the choreography is viscerally demanding, so her body also needs to be as steely as a knife. In other words, the ballerina turns into both liquid and metal, mercury in flight. I cried from beginning to end. My seven-year-old, who had never been to the ballet before, said she couldn’t believe she had seen ‘so many butts’. After it finished, as a special treat we went behind the stage to stand in the wings and look at the dancers receive their ovations. It was odd, coming straight from the auditorium with its thunderous handclapping, to watch the rows of figures in all their powdery perfection line up and bow. The applause of the audience sounded like tiny hooves covered in felt. All was slow. All was quiet. It felt like magic. This is the new issue of Condé Nast Traveller. For all those who need to be transported.

Melinda Stevens Editor @MelindaStevens3

MelindaLP

WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR Truth in Travel is this magazine’s promise to the reader to be an essential source of honest, first-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Condé Nast Traveller to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude. All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication. Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks 16 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

BOUTIQUE LONDON 31 New Bond Street / Harrods Knightsbridge T

Big Bang Pop Art. A unique model inspired by the famous art movement. Automatic chronograph in 18K yellow gold. Bezel set with 48 pink baguette-cut sapphires. Green rubber and pink alligator-skin strap. Limited edition of 200 pieces.

Bossa Nova – Coming Soon

THE ORIGINAL – THE LUGGAGE WITH THE GROOVES BOSSA NOVA – travel in style and do good Out of solidarity with Brazil, this extraordinary range is only being manufactured in the Brazilian factory. And there is another special feature: RIMOWA is donating a proportion of the sales proceeds to the organization Saúde e Alegria, in order to support projects in the Amazon region. www.rimowa.com

www.saudeealegria.org.br

CONTRIBUTORS Inspired by this month’s story on New York stores, we asked our contributors for their top shopping destination…

Kate Maxwell Writer, Porto (p128)

Nicole Franzen Photographer, New York (p106) ‘I used to live in Buenos Aires and my favourite place to shop was around the neighbourhood of Palermo Viejo, with its hip boutiques, furniture and homeware stores, and great cafés. The shops are on old cobblestone streets and often have open-faced storefronts, bringing in a modern vibe.’ Brooklyn-based Nicole has travelled throughout South America and the Caribbean

‘Stockholm and Copenhagen are the stuff of interiordesign dreams. Last year I spent a fortnight in Scandinavia drooling over mid-century furniture and textiles at Swedish stores Svenskt Tenn and Malmstenbutiken, and contemporary takes on classics at HAY and Illums Bolighus in Copenhagen. Next time I’ll take an HGV.’ Kate is a Condé Nast Traveller contributing editor and group editorial director of Soho House

Justin Cartwright Writer, Ardtornish (p138) ‘The Marais in Paris, because it is not all about shopping. There are also great gardens, museums and terrific Jewish restaurants. I buy tea at Dammann Frères and, when I can afford to, clothes at Surface to Air. I once bought a bicycle at Bicloune. It was stolen in London.’ Justin’s latest book is ‘Lion Heart’ (Bloomsbury, £8.99)

Bill Phelps Photographer, Palermo (p96) ‘Wherever I go, I ritualistically ask people, “So where can you buy old motorcycles around here?” The answer usually leads me somewhere special. Two of the best places have been El Rastro in Madrid and San Telmo in Buenos Aires.’ As well as being a photographer, Bill owns Café Moto in Williamsburg, New York 20 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

‘I really like shopping in Istanbul. I love all the little places on the Asian side where you can buy French and Ottoman antiques, amazing Persian rugs, cool vintage watches and nice pieces of jewellery.’ Oli is currently working on a documentary about his grandmother, the writer Rosamunde Pilcher

Hanya Yanagihara Writer, New York (p106) ‘Tokyo and Kyoto, where I go every year, for magazines, paper goods, limited-edition Comme des Garçons pieces, incense, pouches, ephemera and foodstuffs (a year’s supply of candy, dried tofu skin and genmaicha tea). Also Jaipur, where I go every other year, for textiles and jewellery.’ Hanya’s second novel, ‘A Little Life’, will be published in the UK in 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS: NICOLE FRANZEN; BILL PHELPS; OLIVER PILCHER; CHRISTIAN SCHAULIN

Oliver Pilcher Photographer, Tanzania (p118)

LONDON BOUTIQUE, 14A NEW BOND STREET - TEL. (+44) 207 499 22 25 HARRODS, 87-135 BROMPTON ROAD - TEL. (+44) 207 893 81 57

ABU DHABI

t

BAL HARBOUR

MOSCOW

t

NEW YORK

t

COURCHEVEL

t

PA R I S

t

t

DUBAI

PORTO CERVO

t t

G E N E VA ROME

wwwt degrisogonot com

t

t

G S TA A D

t

K U WA I T

ST BARTHELEMY

t

t

LONDON

ST MORITZ

EDITOR

Melinda Stevens EDITORIAL ASSISTANT/PA TO THE EDITOR Tabitha Joyce DEPUTY EDITOR Sarah Spankie ASSOCIATE EDITOR Peter Browne MANAGING EDITOR Paula Maynard FEATURES EDITOR Issy von Simson ACTING FEATURES EDITORS Steven King, Emma Love WORD OF MOUTH EDITOR Fiona Kerr EDITOR AT LARGE Daisy Finer

FASHION FASHION AND BEAUTY DIRECTOR Fiona Lintott MEN’S EDITOR David Annand WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR Jessica Diamond RETAIL EDITOR Thea Darricotte

ART ART DIRECTOR Pete Winterbottom DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Caroline Metcalfe DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Paula Ellis ART EDITOR Jon-Paul Pezzolo PHOTOGRAPHIC PRODUCTION Matthew Buck PICTURE EDITOR (PRINT AND DIGITAL) Karin Mueller

COPY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Rick Jordan DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Christy Ward SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Gráinne McBride

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jonathan Bastable, Justin Cartwright, Horatio Clare, Sophie Dahl, E Jane Dickson, Helen Fielding, Giles Foden, Loyd Grossman, Jeremy King, Emma Love, Kate Maxwell, Lee Marshall, Thomasina Miers, Reggie Nadelson, Harriet O’Brien, Redmond O’Hanlon, Tom Parker Bowles, Harry Pearson, Adriaane Pielou, Antonia Quirke, Paul Richardson, Anthony Sattin, Nicholas Shakespeare, Sally Shalam, Stanley Stewart, Colin Thubron CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS James Bedford, Mirjam Bleeker, David Crookes, Squire Fox, Philip Lee Harvey, Max Kim-Bee, Ken Kochey, Lisa Limer, Lisa Linder, Martin Morrell, Anders Overgaard, Tom Parker, Oliver Pilcher, Preston-Schlebusch, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jenny Zarins CNTRAVELLER.COM

Experiences words can’t describe. Memories a camera can’t quite capture.

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Tony Cross DEPUTY EDITOR Laura Fowler ACTING DEPUTY EDITOR Becky Lucas ASSISTANT EDITOR Hazel Lubbock

SYNDICATION AND EDITORIAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson EDITORIAL BUSINESS AND RIGHTS EXECUTIVE Kate Foreman SYNDICATION [email protected] INTERNATIONAL PERMISSIONS MANAGER Eleanor Sharman

Adventures aren’t found in magazines. We can’t describe your dream trip on this page. But with over 50 years’ experience, our own people and expedition vehicles all over the world, we can help you discover it. Anything is possible.

CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Nicky Eaton SENIOR PUBLICITY MANAGER Harriet Robertson PUBLICITY MANAGER Melody Rayner SENIOR PRESS OFFICER Richard Pickard

Copyright © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Printed in the UK by The Artisan Press Ltd. Colour origination by CLX Europe Media Solution Ltd. Published monthly. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The titles Condé Nast Traveller and TRUTH IN TRAVEL are registered at the US Patent Office and in the EU as trademarks. All prices correct at the time of going to press but subject to change. The mail-order protection scheme does not cover items featured editorially. The paper used for this publication is recyclable and made from renewable fibrous raw materials. It has been produced using wood sourced from sustainably managed forests and elemental or total chlorine-free bleached pulp. The producing mills use third-party certified management systems, applying standards such as ISO 9001 and ISO 14001. This magazine can be recycled through kerbside collection, or at a recycling point. Go to www.recyclenow.com and enter your postcode to find your nearest sites

Can’t find Condé Nast Traveller in the shops? To order a copy and past issues, call 0844 848 5202 (Mon–Fri 8am–9.30pm, Sat 8am–4pm), quoting 7021

abercrombiekent.co.uk 0845 485 1139

The subscription rate (post paid) to Condé Nast Traveller is £49.20 per year (12 issues). For all subscription orders (by credit card or otherwise) call 0844 848 5202. Overseas per year: €89 to the eurozone, £80 to the rest of Europe, $99 to the USA and £89 to the rest of the world. Special offers and promotions are also advertised in the magazine. For UK subscription enquiries call 0844 848 5202 or email [email protected]. Manage your subscription online 24hrs a day by logging onto www.magazineboutique.co.uk/youraccount. For overseas enquiries call +44 (0)1858 438815. Orders, changes of address and customer enquiries should be sent to: Condé Nast Traveller, Subscriptions Department, Tower House, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough LE16 9EF or email [email protected] All editorial enquiries and unsolicited submissions to Condé Nast Traveller that require replies must be accompanied by stamped, addressed envelopes. Emails will not be responded to. Condé Nast Traveller cannot be held responsible for unsolicited material or photographs.

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

Simon Leadsford

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Juliette Ottley ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR Erica Wong SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Natalie Fenton SENIOR ACCOUNT & PROMOTIONS MANAGER Amy Cole DIGITAL SALES MANAGER Sophie Stoneham

PROMOTIONS PROMOTIONS DIRECTOR Victoria Higgins PROMOTIONS CREATIVE DIRECTOR Lee Osborne PROMOTIONS CO-ORDINATOR Kendra Leaver

REGIONAL OFFICES REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Karen Allgood (020 7152 3276) REGIONAL ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Heather Mitchell PARIS OFFICE Helena Kawalec (00 33 1 44 11 78 80) ITALIAN OFFICE Valentina Donini (00 39 02 805 1422) ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER US Shannon Tolar Tchkotoua (00 1 212 630 4913) ASIA & PACIFIC OFFICE Kim Kenchington (00 852 2882 1106) INDIAN OFFICE Marzban Patel (00 91 22 2287 5717) MIDDLE EASTERN OFFICE Ali Asgar Mir (00 97 143 913360) FLORIDA AND CARIBBEAN OFFICE Maria Coyne (00 1 305 756 1086) GREEK OFFICE DK Associates (00 30 697 444 2002)

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING CLASSIFIED DIRECTOR Shelagh Crofts CLASSIFIED SALES MANAGER Emma Roxby CLASSIFIED SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE Marika Langford CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Olivia Osborne

MARKET RESEARCH MARKETING DIRECTOR Jean Faulkner ASSOCIATE RESEARCH DIRECTOR Gary Read ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Susie Brown MARKETING EXECUTIVE Katie Bowman RESEARCH MANAGER Tim Dickinson SENIOR DATA MANAGER Tim Westcott

CIRCULATION CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Richard Kingerlee NEWSTRADE CIRCULATION MANAGER Elliott Spaulding NEWSTRADE PROMOTIONS EXECUTIVE Anna Hickes

SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR Patrick Foilleret SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING AND PROMOTIONS MANAGER Claudia Long ACTING SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING AND PROMOTIONS MANAGER Michelle Velan CREATIVE DESIGN MANAGER Anthea Denning

PRODUCTION

The most desirable villas in the heart of the Mediterranean

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Jenson PRODUCTION MANAGER Joanne Packham COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION MANAGER Xenia Antoni ACTING PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Dawn Crosby ACTING PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Sarah Isle ACTING COMMERCIAL SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Stuart White COMMERCIAL AND PAPER PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Martin MacMillan COMMERCIAL JUNIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Jessica Beeby

CNTRAVELLER.COM HEAD OF DIGITAL Wil Harris DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR Albert Read

MANAGING DIRECTOR Nicholas Coleridge FINANCE DIRECTOR Pam Raynor FINANCIAL CONTROL DIRECTOR Penny Scott-Bayfield HR DIRECTOR Hazel McIntyre CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER IS PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU (020 7499 9080; email: [email protected])

020 7377 8518 www.TheThinkingTraveller.com Come and see us at the Condé Nast Traveller Luxury Travel Fair, London Olympia. 6-9 November 2014, stand B19.

DIRECTORS Jonathan Newhouse (Chairman), Nicholas Coleridge (Managing Director), Stephen Quinn, Annie Holcroft, Pam Raynor, Jamie Bill, Jean Faulkner, Shelagh Crofts, Albert Read, Patricia Stevenson CHAIRMAN, CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL Jonathan Newhouse

Voted ‘Favourite Tour Operator’ at the Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Travel Awards 2014. www.carrier.co.uk/traveller

Carrier specialises in luxury tailor-made holidays worldwide. Service is personal, flexible and haute couture.

WORD OF MOUTH

What’s hot in Istanbul Paris Los Angeles Czech Republic The Dolomites EDITED BY FIONA KERR

Pipe dreams Industrial edginess in the pristine wilderness? It can be done, as a former pumphouse in Tasmania shows and encircled by mountains, and was known to the Aboriginal population as Leeawuleena (‘sleeping water’). Aptly, the Pumphouse and its 12 bedrooms – there are six more and a restaurant on shore – makes the most of the epic, peaceful views with soaring windows and serene grey, cream and timber interiors. And the spirit of the building’s former life is retained in features including industrial light fittings, the Hydro Tasmania lettering above the doors and a glass floor in the lobby revealing the old water turbines. Close by, there are trails to walk, mountains to climb, trout to catch, and wallabies, wombats and possums to spot. The less energetic, though, might choose instead to pack up a picnic for a row on the lake, or raid their room’s well-stocked larder for local favourites including Devil’s Corner wines and Huon Aquaculture salmon. Doubles from about £130; www.pumphousepoint.com.au

PHOTOGRAPH: STU GIBSON

We’re used to seeing industrial buildings brought back to life – former factories as galleries, disused warehouses as arty lofts – regenerating city centres from Berlin to Brooklyn. But Pumphouse Point, 900ft from shore in the middle of Lake St Clair in wildest Tasmania, is different. Built in 1939 to supply a nearby hydroelectric station, the cream Art Deco building was abandoned in the 1990s but is reopening in December as a wilderness hotel. ‘I first laid eyes on the pumphouse in the early 1980s and was struck by the sheer majesty of the landscape, and surreal juxtaposition of this temple-like building sitting in the middle of a remote lake,’ says developer Simon Currant. ‘Twenty years later, in 2004, I managed to secure the lease from the government and my vision for a small, low-impact retreat started to come to life.’ Part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, Lake St Clair is 3,000ft above sea level, 600ft deep, 11 miles long

December 2014 Condé Nast Traveller 27

COOL AS TRUCK

WORD OF MOUTH

Honk, honk! You’re driving along when a great big thing with ‘Jet Fuel’ stamped on the back blares its horn and barges in front of you. In India, where ‘Horn Please’ is painted onto trucks as an instruction to vehicles wishing to overtake, this is perfectly normal. But the vibrant designs denote more than just the rules of the road. ‘A truck is like a portrait of the person driving it,’ says Dan Eckstein, who travelled 10,000km around India’s Golden Quadrangle road network to document the boldest, brightest beauties. Much of the artwork is created in workshops, then customised by the driver. ‘On the roadside, you can buy tassels, shrines and garlands,’ says Eckstein. ‘Hindu priests bless the trucks and put henna on them.’ A sandal tied to the front of the truck is a talisman against the evil eye. ‘Each has the name of the trucking company, the driver’s name and caste, and different religious iconography.’ Decoration varies from region to region, too. ‘In the south,’ he says, ‘they tie conch shells and pieces of coconut on trucks for good luck.’ You can also find clues to the load. ‘Tomatoes, or other vegetables, are attached by string to show they are carrying perishables – so that they don’t get held up by the police.’ HAZEL LUBBOCK ‘Horn Please: The Decorated Trucks of India’ by Dan Eckstein is published on 2 December (£32.50; powerHouse Books)

CULTURE CLASH

Two cities share the title European Capital of Culture in 2015. Confused? Read our curious guide

CZECH REPUBLIC, PILSEN

MONS, BELGIUM

CLAIM TO FAME The birthplace of pilsner lager (1842) and Skoda (1859). Best not to combine the two.

The site of the first battle of World War I. Plans for 2015 include the opening of the Mons Memorial Museum.

IN YOUR SIGHTS The 17th-century belfry, affectionately known as El Catiau (the chateau), is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Van Gogh lived on the outskirts of the city for a year, and his house is now a museum.

GET WITH THE PROGRAMME Tightrope acrobat David Dimitri kicks things off on 17 January. Then there are art events at sites including the Skoda factory, the old transport depot and a former brewery (now Světovar Culture Factory).

The opening ceremony on 24 January features a giant dancefloor and glowing dragons. Other events include a Cultural Mile, Google Street View-inspired interactive city walks, and a Van Gogh show.

STRANGE BUT TRUE Pilsen has a 20km-long labyrinth of underground tunnels, used at various times for defence and food storage. Tours are available. 28 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

The Mundaneum archive was opened in 1910 by two Belgian lawyers who aimed to collect all the world’s knowledge on index cards.

ILLUSTRATION: MELVYN EVANS

First stop: the Pilsner Urquell brewery tour. Then St Bartholomew’s Cathedral and the salmon-pink domes of the Great Synagogue, a poignant reminder of the city’s large pre-war Jewish population.

Incredible creations start with Nespresso.

The coffees you love have as their foundation an excellent espresso. Our Nespresso experts select from the finest coffee beans around the world to create our rich and complex blends. Explore the essence of quality coffee at nespresso.com

WORD OF MOUTH

Michael Hutchence

Boy George Artist Paolo Calia and Karl Lagerfeld

Partygoers cooling down in the pool

plug and play In the 1980s and 90s, Les Bains Douche was the Studio 54 of Paris. Now this nightclub has been reborn as a smart hotel, its bohemian spirit intact

Johnny Depp and Kate Moss

Iman and David Bowie

‘Les Bains Guerbois was the first spa in Paris when it opened in 1885,’ says current owner JeanPierre Marois. This was a place where intellectuals and writers such as Marcel Proust would mix with market workers from Les Halles taking a dawn shower and drinking café calvas. It became a nightclub in 1978, with decor by a budding local designer, Philippe Starck, drawing top models, film stars and artists, and later becoming the showcase for DJ David Guetta. When the venue closed in 2011, filmmaker Marois, whose father had acquired Les Bains in the 1960s, made it his mission to save it. ‘The German film director [Rainer Werner] Fassbinder said, “To make a film is like building a house.” But I’d say to do a hotel is like making a film. I’ve undertaken Les Bains like the directorproducer of an artistic project.’ Casting includes architect Vincent Bastie and two interior designers. Tristan Auer, who

has worked for Mick Jagger, is behind the 39 rooms and suites, while Denis Montel of RDAI, which has instilled French chic in Hermès boutiques around the world, has created the groundfloor restaurant/salon. ‘I wanted to capture its perfume and quartier so you feel its history,’ says Marois. ‘But I didn’t want a museum. Les Bains has always been edgy, so I wanted to integrate its magic.’ The magic was kept alive even during two years of renovation, with street-art installations and pop-up theatre. And Marois has retained a small event space in the basement for ‘concerts, performances and big fêtes like in the grand epoch of Les Bains’. In an area of the Marais that is fast transforming, the hotel will be, says its owner, ‘The five star in Paris that is the furthest east and the most way out.’ 7 rue du Bourg l’Abbé; www. lesbains-paris.com NATASHA EDWARDS

Elle Macpherson

Club owner Thierry Kléméniuk, Nicolas Cage and Grace Jones

Mel Brooks

Mario Testino 30 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

Grace Jones

PHOTOGRAPHS: FOC KAN

access all areas All the pictures on this page were taken by Foc Kan, who snapped Warhol, Basquiat et al during the club’s heyday. ‘At the start, photographers weren’t welcome,’ he says. ‘The first shot I took was in 1983. I was with the bouncer when I saw someone go by, all dressed up. It was Mick Jagger.’ The photo, taken with his Leica and approved by the singer, was a foot in the door for Kan, one of only three snappers to be allowed inside. His highlight was the party given by Lagerfeld in 1992 for Victoire de Castellane, jeweller and then-designer for Chanel. ‘All the stars were there, dancing and smoking all night. For me, a great shot is about getting up close. A model holding three glasses of Champagne, with a packet of cigarettes down her cleavage – that’s a fantastic photo.’ NE

WORD OF MOUTH

PEAKTIME

Hooded jacket, £340, Perfect Moment, Ski Studio at www.matches fashion.com. Score snowboard, £330, Nidecker (www. snowboard-asylum. com). Caribou boots, £220, Sorel, Ski Studio (as before)

All set for winter frolics? We zoom in on the next big things to hit the slopes

1

THE SLEEK HOTELS The style is contemporary at Nira Montana in La Thuile at the foot of Mont Blanc. Cole & Sons Woods wallpaper replaces wood panelling, and animal hides are kept to accents not acres. # At Adler Mountain Lodge, the infinity pool is understated, interiors are minimal and larch-clad, and the sauna comes with an uninterrupted Dolomites view.

2

and modern art on the walls. # Across in Avoriaz, striking Hôtel des Dromonts is the latest from the much-lauded Sibuet group.

3

THE HOT NIGHT SPOT Swap fur coats for spandex, as demure Megève welcomes the latest incarnation of La Folie Douce, with cross-dressing cabaret and Champagne-soaked crowds.

4

THE RESORT ON THE RISE

THE CLICKABLE KIT

Both Morzine and Avoriaz are pulling up their thermal socks to tempt smart skiers to Portes du Soleil. In Morzine, Chalet iGloo, from the new Boutique Chalet Company, has Eames chairs around the table

Don’t risk a chill shopping for slope-worthy style: both Matches and Net-a-porter have just launched online ski boutiques, stocking Moncler, Sorel, Kjus, Fendi, Lacroix and Perfect Moment.

5

THE AT-HOME APRES No skis required to get to Beaver Lodge in London’s Chelsea. It’s inspired by Wyoming cabins, with a bourbonheavy cocktail menu.

6

THE CHEFS ON HIGH Fancy a ski session with Heston Blumenthal? He and fellow cooks Sat Bains and Marcus Wareing are hosting two dinners and three days of skiing in Courmayeur from 9 to 12 January. # Meanwhile, six top Italian chefs are manning the ovens in Dolomites huts on 14 December for the Gourmet Ski Safari.

7

THE NEW PARTY PADS With its graffiti art and disco, Chalet Quezac in Tignes is as bold as its owner, free-ride skier and rally driver Guerlain Chicherit. # In Val d’Isère, Chalet Husky takes the action indoors with a climbing wall and archery.

8

Be prepared for sun and snow with Nike Command goggles’ transition lenses. # Osprey launches the Kode ABS 42 backpack – that’s Avalanche Airbag System to the unadventurous. # And this winter’s best budget board is the Nidecker Score.

9

THE POP-UP CLUBS Stateside, it’s all about the DJ cat, a snowcat turned DJ booth at Tamarack Lodge on Lake Tahoe. # Vail hosts Décimo, a mountain club with big names including Paul Oakenfold.

10

THE SPA FOR LESS At new WellnessHostel 4000 in the Swiss village of Saas-Fee, rooms are in simple pine but the huge spa has a Finnish sauna, herbal steams and outdoor whirlpools. FELIX MILNS 32 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

PHOTOGRAPH: FERNAND FONSSAGRIVES/TRUCK ARCHIVE

THE GO-TO GEAR

WORD OF MOUTH

DESIGN OF THE TIMES With Soho House set to launch and the Biennial underway, Istanbul is fizzing with creative energy. Here three insiders give us the lowdown

Left: City Circus’ mural and bar; Free Thinking Zone; a balcony at City Circus;

Top, Turkish designer Zeynep Tosun and favourite hangouts Souq Karakoy, above, and boutique Self Estate, top left

Two Biennial creations: Lepsis, for breeding edible insects, above; Bless No.41 Workout Computer, left

THE CURATOR Zoë Ryan oversees the 2nd Istanbul Design Biennial, which runs across the city from 1 November to 14 December ‘This year’s theme is ‘The Future Is Not What It Used To Be’ and there are lots of impressive projects. Architects Cenk Dereli and Yelta Köm are hosting a radio show looking at design in everyday life and don’t miss the events at SALT, one of the best art spaces in Turkey. Away from the Biennial, I love tea on the terrace of the Istanbul Modern museum with its incredible Bosphorus views. Yeni Lokanta restaurant serves terrific contemporary Turkish food and is lined in beautiful tiles with aubergines painted on them. Then there’s Gram, a café owned by Didem Şenol, one of the most brilliant chefs in Turkey. She rethinks Anatolian cuisine in a modern way with exquisite results.’


Left: Münferit and, above, its dish of calamari on black couscous. Bottom, Sunset Grill & Bar

THE COCKTAIL CONNOISSEUR Tom Kerr heads up Soho House bars across Europe: its 13th House opens in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu neighbourhood this winter ‘Istanbul will have the biggest Soho House yet with eight bars including one on the rooftop. It’s in a former palazzo with lots of period details, historic paintings and a grand winding staircase. The city inspires me so much: it’s international yet has a strong sense of local culture. We’re incorporating that into our cocktails, with herbs and spices from the Grand Bazaar and ingredients such as pomegranate, mint and rosewater. I love the Sunset Grill & Bar for the best views and La Petite Maison in Nişantaşi for its Mediterranean menu and terrace dotted with olive trees. But my favourite is the bohemian-style Münferit, which serves Turkish-inspired food and amazing cocktails.’ PHOTOGRAPHS: BLESS ISTANBUL DESIGN BIENNIAL

THE FASHION DESIGNER Istanbul-born Zeynep Tosun launched her label in 2008 and shows at London and Istanbul Fashion Weeks ‘Inspiration and creativity is everywhere in Turkey. In a village in Anatolya, for example, one of the ladies who does my embroidery had a beautiful carpet hanging on the wall. Her mother had made it. In Istanbul, Self Estate and Building are brilliant boutiques that support emerging designers. And I like Midnight Express because of its beautiful Turkish collection and jewellery – everything from bold costume pieces to minimalist Perspex designs. My favourite neighbourhood is Karaköy, which has lots of cool bars and hosts the monthly Souq Karaköy, a festival-like market where you can find upcoming designers and delicious food.’

Rush The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world. M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

WORD OF MOUTH

O BROTHER, WHERE ART THOU? Los Angeles is fast becoming the USA’s hottest destination for art. Lured by low rents and a vibrant community, artists have turned derelict downtown warehouses into smart galleries. The Museum of Contemporary Art has a new outpost in Little Tokyo, and in January Hauser & Wirth will launch a two-month pop-up exhibition to precede the opening of its LA gallery. At the centre of the scene are design duo the Haas Brothers. Since stealing the show at last year’s Art Basel with a line of tongue-in-cheek animalistic furniture, Nikolai and Simon have become stars – the culmination of years of tinkering in their backyard in Austin, Texas. ‘Our parents were eccentric, collecting and making all sorts of crazy things,’ Simon says of his screenwriter mum and stonemason dad. ‘Niki and I have been building stuff our whole lives.’ Just 30, the twins have been commissioned by the likes of Lady Gaga (angel’s wings) and Versace (futuristic thrones). They attribute their success to LA’s encouraging spirit: ‘It’s about friendship. The more creatively powerful the people around you are, the better,’ says Nikolai, who not long ago worked on a construction site. Simon, a painter, was a cook at vegetarian restaurant Elf Café when he met Roman Alonso of interior-design outfit Commune, who invited the pair to draw murals for the new Ace Hotel. ‘It helps that LA isn’t burdened by a gallery history, like New York,’ adds Simon. ‘It’s undeniably the next art city having its moment.’ BRITT COLLINS ‘The Haas Brothers’ (Damiani, £35) is published on 30 November

HOW TO DO DOWNTOWN Go on an art walk to see LA’s famous street murals on Spring St (including California Dreamscape in the lobby of the Ronald Reagan State Building), Alameda St, Olvera St (the controversial América Tropical) and Civic Center Metro station (Under the Living Rock, a 160ft mosaic mural). Check out the retro neon signs on South Figueroa Street (the iconic Felix Chevrolet), at 812 South Broadway (Rialto Theatre, now Urban Outfitters) and 8th Street. Hang out at the new Ace Hotel Downtown LA for movies, art and poolside cocktails with dizzying views of the skyline. Soak up the art scene at the Night Gallery or, for something more cutting edge, The Hive. Or try Art Share LA, where you can see a show or do a life-drawing workshop. Don’t gush about how hip LA is nowadays – the locals always knew it. BC

SOFT OPENINGS

IN-SUITE STEALING

That period before a hotel ‘officially’ opens, when you can stay for reduced rates. New website BeTheFirst.com makes the best deals easier to find

Toiletries? Sure. Towel? Maybe. Now Australia’s QT Hotels are targeting klepto guests with a ‘desire menu’ pricing everything down to the shoehorn

SEVILLE

SELFIES

Visit before the Game Of Thrones fans arrive (Season Five has just finished filming there). Handily, British Airways launch new direct flights in March

Getting sillier, with not only designated ‘selfie spots’ (as seen at the Mandarin Oriental Paris) but the ‘selfie stick’, an extendable pole for the perfect angle

EXTREME TRAVEL

ROBOTS

Secret Expedition from out-there experts Secret Compass offers adventure with a twist: your mission isn’t revealed until you arrive at the airport

Automaton butlers at Aloft Hotels, and drinks mixed by robot on Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas. What happened to the personal touch?


PHOTOGRAPH: LISA EISNER

the trends taking off and those running out of fuel

TOMORROW YOU’LL

newzealand.com

SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND?

CAPE TOWN

No city in the world is as creative as this place right now. Artists, designers and chefs have taken over once run-down buildings and there’s an upbeat energy on the streets, says Lisa Grainger

PHOTOGRAPHS: BROOKE FASANI AUCHINCLOSS

J

ust one sleep is all it takes to get to Cape Town: a 12-hour overnight flight. And at the end of it, no jet lag, but instead an instant hit of winter sun. And a city, which is really no more than a small seaside town, with an attitude that’s way more than the sum of its parts. The pop-up concept could have been invented in this town. Things here really do just pop up. Penguins on Boulders Beach. Shacks along main roads. Hip urban coffee shops selling antique motorbikes alongside freshly roasted beans. Market stalls hawking toy cars conjured from Coke cans. Restaurants that out of the blue join the ranks of the world’s Top 100. It’s a big old cultural stewpot, a place where you might find Nigerian bankers and Italian rastafarians, where the food includes Indian curries and Afrikaans biltong, the music both bongo drumming and French folk singing. That you never know what you’re going to get is part of the excitement, and people here are always, as they say, ‘making a plan’. It’s buzzing, which is why stars such as Lily Allen choose to make their music videos in Cape Town, why this year The New York Times named the city its top holiday destination and why Puma’s former CEO Jochen Zeitz is moving his African modern-art collection into a converted grain silo here. Just 10 years ago, there was no point in going into the town centre. It was dead – and could be deadly, if you wandered up

the wrong alleyway. Today, central Long Street is packed with cool bars, and the surrounding lanes are full of teenagers scoffing cupcakes at the lurid-pink Charly’s Bakery, chocoholics scoring their cocoa fix at Honest Chocolates, groups on walking tours with Future Cape Town, and artists exploring the graffitied walls of District Six. Of all the areas, Woodstock has been most freshly transformed. Although it has always been home to an alternative multicultural crowd (even when apartheid’s Group Areas Act forbade different races from living together), today the run-down buildings around The Old Biscuit Mill have been mostly colonised by creatives.

THAT YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU’RE GOING TO GET IS PART OF IT. PEOPLE HERE ARE ALWAYS, AS THEY SAY, ‘MAKING A PLAN’ Their workshops border crumbling houses that for generations have been inhabited by fishermen and factory workers. On Saturday mornings Capetonians flock to the triple-storey, stripped-brick factory, where local craftsmen sell their wares – ceramics at Imiso, hand-made herbal soaps at Karoo Moon – before clocking off for a long Cape lunch. Nearby, tents house the city’s busiest food market,

piled high with treats: koeksisters (plaited doughnuts soaked in cinnamon syrup), craft beers, lamb-and-apricot samosas, hot pickled fish. Those who have booked well in advance might stroll to starry chef Luke Dale-Roberts’s The Test Kitchen, with its theatrical Heston Blumenthal-style food, or take a glass lift upstairs to The Pot Luck Club, his edgier rooftop restaurant/ gallery, for pan-African and Asian sharing platters and far-reaching views. After lunch, wander beyond the factory precincts to explore the once derelict flats and empty churches that now hold independent shops. At number 66 Albert Road, The Woodstock Exchange is where to find local furniture stars Pedersen + Lennard and fashion favourites Made in Maboneng and, at number 160, The Woodstock Foundry houses John Vogel’s modern riempie furniture workshop and the popular Dear Rae jeweller. Galleries, too, are here, with some of the biggest names in the South African art world now within a few blocks, including What if the World, Goodman Gallery, BellRoberts and Stevenson. First-time visitors unsure of how to negotiate this edgy area, with its beerhalls and industrial workshops, the drunks and the graffiti, should consider booking Natalie Bulwer, who knows the city’s arty areas inside-out, and can create bespoke tours. She is also an expert on the shops. Thanks to her I discovered some of the trendiest downtown stores: Missibaba ®

Opposite, Pod hotel in the Camps Bay area of Cape Town with Lion’s Head in the background, part of Table Mountain National Park December 2014 Condé Nast Traveller 39

SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND? CAPE TOWN for a gallop along the aptly named Long Beach, and finally at the very tip of Africa, which Sir Francis Drake described as ‘the fairest cape that we saw in the whole circumference of the earth’. Driving back into Cape Town along the east coast of the peninsula, Kalk Bay is a good spot to stretch the legs and browse the quirky boutiques along the seaboard, including Casa Boho and OMG; or stop for coffee and home-made cake at the New Yorkinspired Tribakery or a glass of wine overlooking the ocean at Harbour House. Sissies who couldn’t bear to dip their toes into the cold water on the Atlantic coast might enjoy driving a bit further for a plunge into the warm waters at Muizenberg or taking a surf lesson at Surf Shack. Then, if it’s a Friday, nip in for a snack at the hippyish Bluebird Garage Market. When it comes to food, the sea and farms around Cape Town produce much of the fruit, vegetables, meat and fish, so everything is fresh and delicious (the fish particularly so in Hout Bay, where the catch is cooked within hours of coming off the boats). Although most dining spots are pretty casual, two of the world’s Top 100 restaurants are in South Africa, and Cape Town has its share of stellar chefs at modern places including Myoga, Bistrot Bizerca and Bistro Sixteen82, as well as at smarter classics such as La Colombe. Coffee lovers can indulge their cravings in inventive spaces such as the biker-shop/café Los Muertos Motorcycles, the lifestyle-shop/café House of Machines and Truth Coffee, with the enormous retro-futuristic

® (the Anya Hindmarch of South Africa) and neighbouring jeweller Kirsten Goss on Bree Street; the Scandi-style Okha furniture shop on Hatfield Street and around the corner, Woodhead’s, which sells Ugg-style boots and shoes; and for stylish African souvenirs, Africa Nova in the Cape Quarter and Tribal Trends on Long Street. Lots of people go to Cape Town to shop (with the pound buying nearly 18 rand, it’s an addictive hobby), but this is also a city surrounded by natural beauty, from rose-edged vineyards and shell-strewn beaches to forested mountain

ranges. Whichever way you go, there are wonderful places to see, particularly on the road along Chapman’s Peak to the southern Cape Point, dug into the coastal cliffs by Italian prisoners during World War I. To explore this southernmost African road, the trick is to set off early from the city, driving against the incoming morning traffic, and stop off en route. First at Clifton and Llandudno beaches, their white sands and shaded boulders overlooked by grand mansions, then at Noordhoek, where you can take horses

Professor Jones’s Fabulous Coffee Bean Contraption at its heart. And there are equally cool hotels in which to unpack your bikini and hang out by the pool. In the quiet, green suburbs is the minimalist but comfy Kensington Place and the homely Four Rosmead, both within walking distance of the Oranjezicht City Farm Saturday market, which is great for stocking up on picnic fodder. At Camps Bay, the new 11-suite Marly hotel has its own Japanese restaurant, the sleek and superbly situated Pod has a rooftop ®

Clockwise from top left: Chefs Warehouse and Canteen; Cape View Clifton guesthouse; The Test Kitchen; Superette café in The Woodstock Exchange 40 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHANNA JONES

TEN YEARS AGO THE CENTRE WAS DEAD. NOW IT’S PACKED WITH COOL BARS

SOMEWHERE FOR A SHORT BREAK? CAPE TOWN

From left: a waitress at Truth Coffee; The Pot Luck Club; The House of Machines


INSIDER TIPS Luke Dale-Roberts, the British-born chef and owner of Cape Town’s most famous restaurants, The Test Kitchen and The Pot Luck Club, on the hot places to hang out in his new home town ‘Cape Town is an incredible place for restaurants, there’s such variety. If I am going for a posh meal – somewhere smart, with white tablecloths and a sense of occasion – I’ll probably head to The Greenhouse at The Cellars-Hohenort, which also has beautiful gardens. For casual tapas, the Chefs Warehouse and Canteen on Bree Street, run by the Irish-born chef Liam Tomlin, is fun; for great modern Italian, I go to 95 Keerom; and for a casual, Asian-style dinner, I like sitting at the counter at Nobu in the One&Only Cape Town. I don’t get much time to go out for drinks, but if I do, the Orphanage Club is popular and funky Publik does great natural wines. At weekends,

I’ll try to do something with my seven-year-old, like go surfing on Muizenberg Beach, where the water’s reasonably warm and the community is very friendly. If it’s windy, we’ll go swimming at sheltered St James Beach and then head to nearby Kalk Bay for fish and chips at Kalky’s or mussels at Olympia Café. With friends, it’s fun to have a full day out wine-tasting and stopping for lunch in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, where there are lovely places to eat such as Overture and Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine at Jordan Wine Estate. Alternatively, the Constantia Valley is just 10 minutes’ drive away, and after a half-day wine tour you can have lunch at Silvermist, take your own barbecue to Silvermine Nature Reserve, a picnic site in a wonderfully wild place, or drive to Cape Point Vineyards, which has one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in the country and serves really good Italian-inspired food.’

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHANNA JONES

® pool, and the Cape View Clifton guesthouse has soothing pale interiors and possibly the most glorious beach views in the city. My favourite places of all to stay, though, are private homes, which range from antique-filled Cape Dutch farmhouses and casual whitewashed beach huts to futuristic steel-andglass pads created by some of South Africa’s leading architects. Most are available to rent through agencies such as Perfect Hideaways, Cape Portfolios and Luxury Retreats and come with home help, from cleaners to cooks and nannies, or through Cape concierges including Lew Rood and Michelle Snaddon, who can organise entire itineraries, as well as shopping excursions, vineyard visits, children’s activities and township tours. While visiting a township isn’t on most holidaymakers’ agendas, it is guaranteed to be interesting and unforgettable, not just because of the range of people you’re likely to meet – inspiring artists, vegetable growers, choirmasters, footballers and orphans – but because of the brilliant guides who accompany you. Charismatic Capetonian James Fernie set up Uthando to link visitors with township dwellers, with the aim of showing the difference that tourism can make, the trust it can build and the skills it can give to people who have won their freedom but still share very little of their country’s wealth.

SNAPSHOT

Street art

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF OSGEMEOS; ALINE DESCHAMPS; JR/AGENCE VU/CAMERA PRESS; RUN

The kind of urban redecoration that would once have got you arrested is now being bigged up all over the world Top row, from left: artist and photographer JR pastes giant blown-up images onto buildings, as seen here in Baden-Baden, Germany; Italian artist RUN at work in Shenzhen, China; France’s answer to Banksy, C215 (real name Christian Guémy) uses stencils to create his portraits, focusing on the elderly, homeless people and street kids, seen here in Colombo, Sri Lanka; Reykjavik has a thriving street-art scene, including this mushroom mural on Hverfisgata by local Sara Riel; in Washington DC, the artist HENSE turned a derelict church into an installation, applying paint with brushes, rollers, sprayers and mops. Middle row, from left: this summer, the Parisian Galerie Itinerrance invited 150 street artists – including eL Seed, known for his Arabic calligraphy – to transform the village of Erriadh on the Tunisian island of Djerba into an open-air gallery; Mademoiselle Maurice uses a rainbow of origami to create artworks such as this one in San Francisco; for his Wrinkles of the City project, JR has so far produced images of elderly people in LA, Cartagena, Havana, Berlin and Shanghai, pictured; five-man collective Boamistura see their art as social intervention, bringing colour to neglected spots including this underpass in their home town, Madrid; Brazilian twin brothers OSGEMEOS create cartoonish figures such as this 25-metre Giant on the side of a school in Chelsea, New York. Bottom row, from left: in Hamar, Norway, Boamistura painted a giant carpet onto a car park, inspired by knitwear patterns; Sara Riel’s giant acorn on Laugavegur in Reykjavik; urban origami from Mademoiselle Maurice on San Francisco’s Baker Beach; Warsaw-based NeSpoon experiments with ceramics, stencils and crochet webbing in her lace creations, which she calls ‘public jewellery’; eyes stare up from the bottom of an abandoned pool in Monrovia, Liberia, as part of JR’s Women Are Heroes series. FIONA KERR December 2014 Condé Nast Traveller 45

WHERE TO STAY

Reviews of the month in London Morocco Gloucestershire + Jemaine Clement EDITED BY PETER BROWNE

EXCLUSIVE FIRST REVIEW

FULLY LOADED

Life on London’s South Bank has just got a whole lot groovier with the arrival of Mondrian London, a brassy hotel that knows how to have a good time. Dominic Lutyens is in the pink about it. Photographs by Matthew Buck maverick designer tom dixon has taken an intriguingly binary approach to his biggest project to date, the much-talked-about Mondrian London hotel. On the one hand, he’s drawn inspiration from the site’s history and context – what you could call an objective method – with a style that’s

anchored to the heritage of the building it occupies: Sea Containers House. Named after its former tenant, a shipping company, this landmark sits next to the Thames on the South Bank and was designed by US architect Warren Platner, who also created the interiors of cross-Channel ferries.


WHERE TO STAY Left to right: the copper-clad route from restaurant to reception; gold taps in the ladies’ loos; brass banisters in Dandelyan bar; the Den lounge. Previous page, the hotel’s Dandelyan bar

All of which led to the hotel’s lobby, restaurant, two bars, screening room, 359 bedrooms and bathhouse/spa being inspired by the golden age of transatlantic liners and all things maritime. On the other hand, Dixon has gone down a highly subjective route, relishing the opportunity to – as the head of his company’s interior-design division, Design Research Studio – put his own stamp on the project. This will be evident to anyone familiar with his career path from self-taught, post-punk welder fashioning furniture from salvaged metal in the 1980s, to his stint as creative director of Habitat (from 2001 to 2008) and, later, as interior designer of private members’ club Shoreditch House. The Mondrian London belongs to the American Morgans Hotel Group, and this is the company’s first foray into the capital since it commissioned Philippe Starck to design the Sanderson and St Martins Lane, arguably the city’s trendiest

®


hotels of the time. Both Starck and Dixon are known for their flamboyant aesthetic, although the former’s is a little icy – lots of white, transparent plastic and acidcitrus shades – while the latter’s is warmer

Mondrian’s ground floor incorporates hip art gallery Lazarides Editions. Another key theme, which sprang from the liner concept – not to mention the US hotel group’s invasion of London

DESIGN BUFFS WILL ENJOY DECIPHERING THE REFERENCES; OTHERS WILL SIMPLY DELIGHT IN ALL THIS SENSUAL COLOUR AND GLAMOUR and more nostalgic with its glowing metallics and highly personal palette of rich, punchy colours, from viridian to blackcurrant-fool mauve. This all seems a long way from the 1990s, when I was working nearby at IPC Magazines, in a grim high-rise building we nicknamed The Tower of Doom. Platner’s brutalist creation was similarly derided, and many wrote off the area (save the Oxo Tower) as a concreteclad no-man’s land. Yet now there is Tate Modern, of course, and part of the

– is ‘the historical Anglo-American relationship’, says Dixon. The hotel riffs on this constantly. Its interiors’ references are multi-layered, encompassing American and European mid-century modernism, Victorian engineering, Art Deco, Pop Art, 1970s disco… Dixon has also revelled in retaining vestigial elements of Platner’s design, from original brass lights in the lifts, which fortuitously correlate with Dixon’s own brass fetish, to a limestone reception desk in the subterranean spa.

By making a feature of brass, a metal with a gaudiness that borders on the vulgar, Dixon has playfully, ironically questioned the boundaries of good and bad taste. In the loos near the lobby, the ultra-minimalist Vola taps by mid-century designer Arne Jacobsen are gold – utter sacrilege for purist modernists. Dixon’s interiors can be appreciated on two levels: design buffs like myself will no doubt enjoy deciphering their references; others will simply delight in all this sensual colour and glamour. He has clearly had a ball with the project, which is apt given that his aim was to create a hedonistic atmosphere. With its predominantly moody lighting and theatrical decor, the Mondrian London evokes the feel of a nightclub: another throwback to Dixon’s past (in the 1980s, he worked as a club promoter). This first hits you when you see the dramatic copper cladding that wraps the reception desk and resembles a hulking

ship’s hull. It curves to the left, with runway-style lights in the floor, leading you to the Sea Containers restaurant and Dandelyan bar, which overlook the river. Dominating the centre of the restaurant is a stainless-steel bar inspired by an American Airstream trailer; conversely, Dandelyan has baize-green walls and plush sofas straight out of a Pall Mall gentlemen’s club. Narrowly eclipsing the wow factor of the reception area’s copper wall is the rooftop bar with its gold Lurex-upholstered stools and ritzy, Ribena-purple Art Decoinspired banquettes. This 1970s glam-rock/ disco ambience is also found in the spa, which is more sybaritic than self-denying: here, to a Bowie soundtrack, you can order ice-cream sundaes and Champagne. Dixon describes the bedrooms, many of which face the river, as ‘compact havens from party life’. But this is to downplay their glamour. I stayed in one after the opening party, and its panoramic views

yet again revealed how much London has changed since the 1990s. Aside from the magisterial St Paul’s, the skyline from this spot now takes in the Gherkin and the recently expanded Blackfriars station. On a pre-opening tour of the Mondrian London, I was told the smaller bedrooms (there are also suites) had been too rectilinear for Dixon’s liking, so he set the beds at jaunty angles. In the bathrooms, he has juxtaposed classical white marble with mirrors in a Pop-meets-Deco style which pay homage to Italian designer Ettore Sottsass’s 1970 Ultrafragola mirror. In short, the hotel’s interiors are never well-behaved nor, despite the nautical theme, too obviously shipshape.

MONDRIAN LONDON AT SEA CONTAINERS, 20 UPPER GROUND, LONDON SE1 9PD (+44 808 234 9523; WWW. MORGANSHOTELGROUP. COM). DOUBLES FROM £149

WHERE TO STAY

UNDER-THE-RADAR

MARRAKECH By Tara Stevens

NEW ARRIVAL

RIAD ADORE The newest addition to Stuart Redcliffe’s Pure Riads collection really suits its name: it’s a place to fall in love with. Two houses were knocked into one to create it earlier this year, so there are two courtyards, one with a fantastically cold plunge pool where you can float on your back and gaze up at the cobalt-blue Marrakech sky and ponder the magic of it all. The undulating roof terraces are a great spot for dining on goat’s-cheese-stuffed cucumbers and sardine kefta, and there’s a little hammam for a good scrub-down and massage. The bedrooms, connected by a number of staircases, are hidden behind Arabic screens and accented in shades of silver, Champagne and charcoal. The Victoria suite has a little balcony overlooking the pool for breakfasts, and the Bahia has a ludicrously big, L-shaped sofa where you can practise being the laziest person on earth. With that in mind, taking tea in bed is always an option, as is drifting around in your PJs or robe until noon. On evenings when you can take no more medina madness, grab a glass of wine from the library and rifle through the magazines and DVD collection (every room has a TV, DVD player and iPod dock), then snuggle up on creamy sheets bolstered with embroidered pillows. 94 Derb Tizouagrine, Dar El Bacha (+212 524 377737; www.riadadore.com). Doubles from about £115 52 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

OLD-SCHOOL BEAUTY

HOTEL DU TRESOR There’s a wonderful feeling of faded glory at the Tresor, which has been open since the early 1950s. Its pressed-concrete floor and wall tiles (installed in the 1960s and 1970s) have weathered elegantly, and the 14 bedrooms are fabulously kitsch. This is where the boom in medina riads began, and the Tresor is as popular with Moroccans as it is with visitors looking for serious eye-candy at bargain-basement prices. The current owner, Italian Adriano Pirani, has added an iceberg-green pool and strung sardine-can lanterns through the giant orange tree in the courtyard, perfectly capturing Marrakech the way it used to be. Elsewhere, bold colours and mismatched furniture salvaged from various overhauls of La Mamounia hotel make confident statements: in the Orange suite, for example, there are head-spinning vermilion walls and sunflower-pattern sheets on the four-poster, and in the bathroom a claw-footed tub and working fireplace shaped like a pregnant belly. On the roof, Eero Saarinen tulip dining chairs and tables add a stylish touch to an otherwise ho-hum breakfast (good barley bread, vanilla yogurt, fruit past its prime), but it’s a great place to hang out mid-afternoon and listen to the drumming and bugling of the Jemaa el Fna’s snake-charmers, storytellers and acrobats. Down the road, the Maison du Tresor, which opened six years ago and still doesn’t have a website, provides a newer, quieter space for overspill. 77 Sidi Boulokat, Riad Zitoun Kdim (+212 524 375113; http://p52975. typo3server.info). Doubles from about £40

NORDIC CORNER

P’TIT HABIBI In a quiet part of the medina that seems to glow a little redder then the rest, the five-bedroom ‘Little House of Happiness’ is the passion of Norwegian architect Knut Hovland, who blends Moroccan techniques with a Scandinavian aesthetic. So the hand-cut floor tiles are in subtle shades of olive-green, grey and cream, and the matt-black fretwork is solidly geometric. All the better to frame treasures from the famous Bab el Khemis flea market, such as a 007-style chandelier of gold loops inset with mother-ofpearl in the main salon, right, which leads to a bougainvillaea-filled courtyard. This place is paradise for retro-hounds in groovy kaftans, and for couples who want a gorgeous, intimate getaway. The White room, with its bird motifs, fireplace and big balcony, is great to hole up in for a few days, as is the new Hazy Moon suite, with its vases of peacock feathers and a gigantic, pierced-bronze moon lamp hanging over the bed. A new salon has recently been added with a film projector and a ceramic stove to take the edge off winter nights. On balmy evenings, guests congregate on the roof, clinking glasses of Campari orange before going out for supper, or sneaking off to cool down in the sand-coloured plunge pool. 59 bis Zaouia Bellabes, Taouia Sidi Ghanem, Bab Lakhmis (+212 524 378887; www.ptithabibi.com). Doubles from about £85

WHERE TO STAY DESIGNER’S DEN

DAR KAWA This five-bedroom, 17th-century townhouse is exquisite. Owner Valérie Barkowski, a Belgian textile designer, has lived here on and off since she bought the place 18 years ago. Although she has now opened it up to guests, it retains the feel of a much-loved private home, with the welcome addition of discreet hotel service: ask the staff for anything you want, and if you don’t feel like going out, choose from a delicious supper menu (harissaspiced vegetable briouts, lamb-and-babyquince tagine, a divine lemon mousse). But mainly you’ll be left alone to snooze away the afternoon on an antique charpoy – a find from Jaipur – on the roof, or to sink into a deep sofa, plush with hand-printed cushions, in the courtyard. Barkowski’s work is everywhere: bedspreads made with vintage nightshirts; linen drapes inset with antique lace; cheeky, candy-striped armchairs flanking the open fireplace in the Olmassi suite. The three chandeliers made of bowler hats in the salon are appealingly eccentric, and the kitchen wall stacked floor-to-ceiling with hand-carved wooden ladles from the souks is a witty, homely touch. 18 Derb Ouali, Kaat Ben Nahed (www.darkawa.net). Doubles from about £70

AFRICA CHIC

TCHAIKANA Taking its name from local slang that roughly translates as ‘Shall we meet for tea?’, this 200-year-old pad ticks all the classic riad boxes, with four citrus trees and a central fountain in the courtyard, a balcony that wraps around the length and breadth of the first floor, and views of the Atlas Mountains from the roof terrace. But stylish black easy chairs and a plunge pool (no bigger than a large bathtub, granted, but it does the trick) are welcome extras that go beyond tradition to add a touch more comfort. It’s in a fairly obscure corner that you’d probably have no other reason to visit, but it is only five minutes’ walk from the Place des Epices, a happening spot full of cafés and rooftop restaurants. In return for the slightly out-ofthe-way location you get blissful peace and possibly the biggest rooms in the medina. The hotel is owned by Barbara Seine and her photographer husband Jean-Louis Montilla, whose portraits, shot during a four-year period in Mali, hang on the passage walls. Further evidence of the couple’s adventures in Africa can be found in the Kinshasa room, where the frame of a 10-metre-long canoe floats above a carved wooden bed, and in the vast Nomade suite, where four hand-carved Berber tent struts have been upcycled as the giant legs of a kingsize bed. 25 Derb El Feranne, Azbest (+212 524 385150; www.tchaikana.com). Doubles from about £65


The AMResorts Collection Indulge yourself in an Unlimited–Luxury® & Endless Privileges® board basis with world class facilities, sensual spas and more. Located in some of the world’s most stunning natural locations, The AMResorts Collection provide something for everyone. Enjoy great savings when you book your flight and hotel together. 4.5★ Now Sapphire Riviera Cancun Up to 30% off accommodation 7 night All Inclusive holidays from

5★ Secrets The Vine Cancun Up to 30% off accommodation 7 night All Inclusive holidays from

5★ Zoetry Agua Punta Cana Up to 30% off accommodation 7 night All Inclusive holidays from

£1059pp

£1329pp

£1599pp

For more information visit ba.com/amresorts

Availability may be extremely limited, particularly during peak periods. All prices include return flights from London Gatwick. Now Sapphire Riviera Cancun price is in GBP per person based on two adults sharing 4.5★ accommodation on an All Inclusive board basis for selected travel between 11/05/15-17/06/15. Secrets The Vine Cancun price is in GBP per person based on two adults sharing 5★ accommodation on an All Inclusive board basis for selected travel between 11/05/15-17/06/15. Zoetry Agua Punta Cana price is in GBP per person based on two adults sharing 5★ accommodation on an All Inclusive board basis for selected travel between 16/04/15-09/07/15. Prices correct as of 08 October 2014. Bookings must be made by midnight 23/11/14. Some payment methods attract a handling fee. Holidays are ATOL protected (number ATOL5985). For full terms and conditions, visit ba.com.

WHERE TO STAY

SALLY SHALAM’S GREAT BRITISH BREAKS This month our happy wanderer reels in seaside favourites from Devon to Northumberland, for bracing walks and smoked kippers at breakfast


PHOTOGRAPHS: GUY HARROP

I

f anything defines island life it is fishing and the hardy souls who put to sea beneath a steel-grey sky. Stephen and Tom Perham are sixth-generation herring fishermen from Clovelly, North Devon, where some 100 herring boats operated until World War I, part of a once-thriving way of life. Today the village has just two boats, owned by the Perham brothers. This month they will be at the annual Herring Festival, celebrating the ‘silver darlings’ that were once the mainstay of this steep, cobbled fishing village. Amid demonstrations of traditional flax-making (for nets) and a merry chorus of shanty singing, the sea breeze will no doubt wrap all assembled in the thick aroma of kippers smoking in a tiny wooden smoke-hut. I’ll buy a bagful of just-caught herring fried in oatmeal, or soused in tea and vinegar, from Stephen and Tom’s sister, Rachel Perham, at her waterfront stall, then drive 30 minutes south to The Beach Hut (www.uniquehomestays. com; three nights from £1,120), a shack-for-two overlooking Widemouth Bay. Here you will find mesmerisingly little between your bed and the Atlantic rollers – and if kippers don’t appeal for tea, there’s king scallops with Thai salad or spiced monkfish with aubergine purée at Nomada restaurant in nearby Bude.

If the North Devon coastline is all rugged cliffs and rocky bays, the Northumberland coast has a different wild beauty of sand dunes and deserted beaches that stretch for miles. One blustery day I walked from Bamburgh Castle, ancient home of the Kings of Northumbria, in sight of Lindisfarne, to the village of Seahouses, where I found Swallow Fish, the oldest smokehouse in the UK. Here, the tale goes, kippers were invented after barrels of salted fish, packed by herring lassies, were inadvertently smoked when a fire was left burning all night in a herring shed. The smokin’ destination now, local spies say, is The Old Dairy, 30 minutes’ drive away in Ford, where a Champagne bar and reclamation trove of French butchers’ blocks, pine beams and Victorian fireplaces make an outing in their own right. For seaside chic nearby, Coastal Retreats’ House in the North (www. coastalretreats.co.uk; three-night breaks from £750, sleeps 10) is brilliantly situated. One of Britain’s oldest fishing ports is characterised not by a harbour but its shingle beach, called the Stade (a Saxon word meaning ‘landing place’). Hastings has no harbour: the fishing fleet launches from and lands on the beach, and one need not ponder hard to conclude how very skilled an exercise that is. Pescatorial pleasures include fish and chips in Maggie’s Fish Market Café behind the distinctive black, wooden fishermen’s huts, and buying divine smoked haddock (for kedgeree, back home) at Rock-a-Nore Fishmongers. I’d book a room just up the coast at The George in Rye (www.thegeorgeinrye.com; doubles from £135), which now has The Shop Next Door so you can take the hotel’s vibrant style – velvet cushions, Moroccan slippers – home with you. The restaurant has a wood-charcoal grill but also makes much of fresh lemon sole, lobster and Rock-a-Nore kippers. Admittedly, Hastings itself is well endowed with B&Bs, but as nights draw in, the advantages of a lively bar and restaurant just downstairs hardly need pointing out.

WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH JEMAINE CLEMENT The Flight of the Conchords star and film-maker tells Francesca Babb where tickles his funny bone

BELMOND COPACABANA PALACE, RIO DE JANIERO ‘The Palace is really oldfashioned, elegant and right on Ipanema Beach. When you walk through the doors, it’s like you’ve stepped back into the 1920s – except for the Wi-Fi, maybe. It’s my favourite hotel ever.’ www.belmond.com. Doubles from about £280

THE BOWERY, NEW YORK ‘I had a really small room when I stayed here, but when I visited actors on a higher payscale than me, theirs were huge. The bar looks like it’s been there a hundred years, but it’s all new, so they’ve done a really convincing job.’ www.theboweryhotel. com. Doubles from about £220

‘GO TO THE TRUMP IF YOU WANT TO STAY WITH THE JONAS BROTHERS ’ NO THANKS ‘I stayed at the Trump SoHo in New York for four months. One of the Jonas Brothers was there at the same time, and there were a load of photographers outside who kept trying to take photos of me. I was filming Men in Black 3, so I had wild, crazy hair and this huge beard. I just looked like some homeless guy staying at this very fancy hotel.’

PALIHOUSE WEST HOLLYWOOD, LOS ANGELES ‘You know what’s so good about this place? They have a blender in the kitchen, so you can go to the supermarket, get your fruit and make smoothies, which is pretty LA. If you’re in LA, you want to drink smoothies, right? I didn’t actually cook anything, but I did make a lot of smoothies.’ www.palihousewest hollywood.com. Doubles from about £160 Jemaine Clement stars in ‘What We Do in the Shadows’, released on 21 November 58 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

POWDERHORN CHATEAU, NEW ZEALAND ‘This is beautiful. It’s a skiing area with amazing mountains and rivers and trees. It’s as New Zealand-y as you get get: if you take photos around there, it just looks like something out of The Hobbit. All the rooms are made from wood and are really comfortable, which is good because all I did when I was sleep.’ www.powderhorn. co.nz. Doubles from about £115

PHOTOGRAPH: TAGHI NADERZAD/GETTY IMAGES

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON ‘This hotel made me feel really important, and it’s very posh. When I’m not working, I tend to stay in grubby apartments that I’ve found on Airbnb – like I am right now in New York – as I don’t spend a lot of money on hotels. But when work’s paying for it, I love it.’ www.corinthia.com. Doubles from £402

18K gold

SOUTHAMPTON · LAKE TEGERNSEE · SYLT · PALM BEACH · MUNICH [email protected] · tamaracomolli.com

WHERE TO STAY has masterminded a long menu, which includes red mullet with pea purée, roasted pollock with fennel and salsify, and a wicked apple, pear and pumpkin strudel with candied walnuts and custard. When assistant manager Michael Wrist-Knudsen isn’t overseeing dinner service, he’s getting lost around the lanes of the surrounding countryside (‘the GPS never works’), uncovering small vineyards to include on a wine list that’s big on English producers (Strawberry Hill’s Montpellier Red is particularly light and fruity). THE CROWD It’s an easygoing mix: the local tree surgeon in full work gear sipping a pint at the bar; a dapper guest in black tie off to a wedding nearby; a thirty-something couple duelling spoons over the last bite of panna cotta. WE LIKE The full-size bottles of English-made Bramley products in the bathrooms (much more eco-friendly than dozens of little ones), and the fact you can buy them when you check out. WE DON’T LIKE Until the pub shuts at 11pm, you can hear the hum of lively banter in the bedrooms directly above (Two and Three). But then again, if you can’t beat them…

THE LION INN

WINCHCOMBE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE

WHAT IS IT? My favourite pub-withrooms that I’ve visited in a long time. The Lion is funky, not too Cotswolds twee, not everything done just so. Dogs race about. The staff are funny. What sets it apart in this toffee-coloured world of honeypot villages is its unstuffiness. It doesn’t seem to take itself too seriously and yet you know a lot of hard work goes into making it appear like that. Inside the 500-year-old coach house, everything is wonky, from a gently concave, scrubbed wooden table in the bar to the low bathroom door in Room Two (forget to duck at your peril). But that is its charm; every surface groans with the full weight of history. It’s not difficult to imagine carriages sweeping through the entrance arch to the former stables at the back where there’s now a lavender-filled, English-cottage garden. BEHIND THE SCENES Softly spoken owner Annie Fox-Hamilton took over three years ago, when this was ‘a real drinkers’ pub’ rather than somewhere you’d want to spend the night. As a seasoned traveller with a background 60 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

in international event management, she wanted to create a charming inn to address all the hotel niggles she had come across on the road. SLEEP Each of the seven bedrooms has a different, quirky touch: a Mickey Mouse mural uncovered under five layers of wallpaper in Room One; a beautifully faded wooden horse from a French carousel in the large open fireplace of Room Two. It all feels smart yet soothing, with soft-taupe walls and thick woollen throws on crisp-white sheets – a neutral backdrop for standout auction-house finds, including bright, hand-painted chests and chunky wooden armoires. Fox-Hamilton is clearly an expert at nabbing the best booty under the hammer. Bathrooms are in cool, cream marble and there are fluffy towels and toasty robes. EAT Judging from the number of people turned away from the flagstone dining room when I was there on a Saturday night, word has got out about the quality of the cooking. Chef Alex Dumitrache

CONTACT +44 1242 603300; www. thelionwinchcombe.co.uk. Doubles from £110. GRAINNE MCBRIDE

WHILE YOU’RE HERE Winchcombe is known for two things: food and furniture shops. The Michelinstarred Restaurant 5 North Street is a few doors down from The Lion Inn, as is the wood-panelled Property of a Gentleman, for curiosities including a Linley-made oak humidor and a pristine Fifties picnic basket with tartan-patterned flasks. Across the street, Barnbury, above, has rose-scented Cire Trudon candles, Art Deco-style glassware and chinoiserie tea caddies.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN MORRELL

THE WEEKENDER

NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP Like the exotic fruit it’s nicknamed after, the city known as the Big Durian has a bad rep, but WORDS MICHELLE JANA CHAN PHOTOGRAPHS MARTIN WESTLAKE

Clockwise from this picture: Dia.Lo.Gue art space; Largo Bistrot; Kemang Icon by Alila hotel; Pot Meets Pop’s front window; 2madison diner and design store; Dia.Lo.Gue; The Living Room; 2madison


Jalan Benda, Jakarta abandon the car, beat the crazy traffic and you’ll discover this peach of a thriving boho hub SHOP Parisian furniture designer Jean-Louis Saglio could be called Benda’s pioneer, having set up his shop, L’Atelier Saglio, 14 years ago. His Art Deco-style, solid-wood furniture is so gorgeous you’ll be totting up the cost of shipping a cabinet or two home. No 16 (+62 21 7883 4966; www.l-atelier-saglio.com) Down a narrow alley (or warung) painted in murals, is Glory Frame & Gallery, where Simon Kristiandi showcases his evocative black-and-white rural Javanese portraits along with naïve paintings and his bestselling collage print of Jakarta snapshots. Behind the shop at No 8C (+62 21 781 7219; www.gloryframe.com) Dia.Lo.Gue is a café, gallery and shop at the junction of Jalan Benda and Jalan Kemang Selatan, selling handmade ceramics, jewellery and pretty stationery. Most covetable are the Benoa chair, the wooden Magno radio and Numo resin rings in primary colours, which are a steal at about £5. Jalan Kemang Selatan 99A (+62 21 719 9671; dialogue-artspace.com) Decor store Kayu Ayu is the place for elegant

wooden screens and reproduction Oriental furniture. Slip a bar of ‘I HEART JKT’ soap into your bag of souvenirs or lug home a mirrored mosaic of a Vespa. No 16A (+62 21 781 2444) Pick up a pair of hardwearing, heavy-stitched, button-fly jeans from the local outpost of Bandungbased brand Pot Meets Pop, which does a premium line made from Japanese salvage denim. The popular Afghani Skinny Cut costs about £25. Shop assistant Pando does alterations on site in minutes. No 98 (+62 813 1210 8781; www. potmeetspopdenim.com) PD Karya Mandiri is a man who can do anything with a machete and a stick of bamboo. Traditional wares take on new uses: fish-dryers become bowls; ladders are turned into clothes horses; fish traps double as lampshades. Workshop at the southern end of Jalan Benda, next to Diana Furniture (+62 85 6198 9660)

DRINK The Kopi Dimana coffee shop does a great cup of Java. Choose between single-origin brews such as Papua Lani Jaya and Sumatra Mandheling, then take home a scoop in ®

THURSDAY AFTERNOON JAZZ JAM SESSIONS KICK OFF AT 3PM IN LARGO BISTROT (+62 21 780 4263; LARGOKEMANG.COM), A FRENCH RESTAURANT IN AN AIRY EX-INDUSTRIAL SPACE. WITH ANTIQUE SIGNAGE, A BABY GRAND PIANO AND FIRST-FLOOR TERRACE, IT DRAWS A BOHO MEDIA/ARTS CROWD THAT’S SMARTER THAN THAT AT OTHER LOCAL WATERING HOLES; THE STEAKS, BURGERS AND WINES ARE TOP-NOTCH.

Don’t miss

NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP Jalan Benda, Jakarta ® one of the delightful, limited-edition bags with illustrations by local artists. No 8 (+62 21 7884 4571; www.kopidimana.com)

Hatten Wines has been growing grapes on Bali’s north coast for more than 20 years. Varieties including Alphonse-Lavallée and Belgia are used in its red, white, rosé and sparkling wines, which you can try at The Cellardoor Jakarta. A bottle of medium-sweet Alexandria (about £10) goes well with spicy food. No 1F (+62 21 7884 8448; www.hattenwines.com)

PAUSE Kick back in the garden at the Entra a Mi Casa salon, where a two-hour mani-pedi costs about £15. The massages and facials are also great value. No 17 (+62 21 780 6222)

EAT Cute café Kedai has overstuffed sofas, lampshades made from colanders and a menu of lovely local dishes such as nasi rawon (rice in beef soup) and nasi gudeg komplit (jackfruit stew with chicken). No 89 (+62 21 781 9945). Lunch about £10 for two Part American-style diner, part lifestyle store, 2madison is owned by two sisters. They know how to flip a tasty burger, and they’re also supporting design students by selling their chairs and teak bowls in a showroom upstairs. No 46F (+62 21 7883 9382; www.2madison.com). Lunch abour £20 for two

(+62 21 780 5671; www.cafegitanejkt.com). Dinner about £20 for two

SNACK For the original fast food, hail a gerobak. You’ll see these stainless-steel trolleys trundling along the street laden with fried tofu, noodle soup and mussels. Catch the seller’s attention by calling ‘mang’ (uncle) and order a portion with oyster sauce. Alternatively, if you are maxed out on nasi goreng, make a beeline for Bagel Bagel and its fresh, crusty, New York-style bagels, including classics such as lox (smoked salmon) and cream cheese, and Philly cheese steak. No 14D (+62 21 781 8769; www.bagelbagel.co.id). Bagels from about £2.50

SLEEP The 12-suite Kemang Icon by Alila hotel is the coolest place to bed down near Jalan Benda. Rooftop restaurant The Edge has chill-out cabanas beside an infinity pool bordered by frangipani trees, where DJs ramp it up at weekends. Jalan Kemang Raya 1 (+62 21 719 7989; www.alila hotels.com/kemangicon). Doubles from about £90 Clockwise from this picture: a bedroom at Kemang Icon by Alila; homeware at 2madison; fashion at The Living Room; Kedai café; rings by Numo at Dia.Lo.Gue; Bagel Bagel signage; an interior at Kedai; Café Gitane. Centre, L’Atelier Saglio

Everyone orders the roast chicken at Café Gitane, a French brasserie with red banquettes and menus written on mirrored walls and chalkboards. Once a month there’s a proper party – they’re still talking about the scandals of the last discothemed night. No 14 64 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

My Jalan Benda Martha Grashiana WORKS AT PRODUCTION COMPANY SEVEN SUNDAY FILMS; HAS LIVED IN JAKARTA FOR 30 YEARS ‘So many restaurants have appeared on Jalan Benda in the past few months. I love Moe’s Place for pork ribs and Bintang beer; the spaghetti aglio e olio at Largo Bistrot is amazing; and I always order the rotisserie chicken at Café Gitane (see opposite). I buy my clothes from The Living Room and pick up home stuff at Vinoti Living. A new hotel, Amaroossa, has recently opened which I want to check out. To stay in shape, I do Bikram yoga at Yoga@42 and go running along the smaller alleys that have trees and less traffic. I’m looking to buy an apartment in Jalan Bangka, which is close by but much cheaper. There are only a few cafés there now, but I know it’s going to take off just like Benda has.’ The Ultimate Travel Company (www.theultimatetravel company.co.uk) offers three nights at the Kemang Icon by Alila from £785 per person, including flights and transfers

A LETTER FROM…

The Israeli owner of a much-loved neighbourhood pretzel shop has an oven-fresh take on the warmth of the city. By Peter Schneider. Illustration by Heather Gatley riends had told me about a small shop in the Kreuzberg district of Berlin that I absolutely had to visit. They said it sold the best soft pretzels and soft pretzel sticks in Berlin. I’ve never been a big fan of pretzels, but I drove to the address they gave me because I was curious about the person who runs the shop. BrezelBar is a 30- to 40-squaremetre shop of the kind there are hundreds of throughout Berlin. Climbing a short set of stairs, you reach a tiny bar. The shelves behind the counter are handmade; the walls – as is de rigueur in Berlin’s local bars – have been plastered and painted so artfully that they look untreated. Nothing in a shop like this – so stipulates the neighbourhood aesthetic – should look new, even if it is new. Behind the bar, a narrow room opens up, adorned with deepblue wallpaper and a chandelier, where you can sink into a leather armchair with your pretzel. The interior’s odd amalgam of decorative elements seems to aspire to a certain style: a touch of kiosk, a hint of palace. Oren Dror, who founded and owns the shop, is a slight, energetic man with hyper-alert eyes and a contagious smile. He came to Berlin from Tel Aviv 14 years ago. He and his friend actually meant to fly on to Amsterdam after a brief stopover. But he got stuck in Berlin because his friend fell in love with a Berliner and he himself didn’t have an address in Amsterdam. So Dror, along with fellow workers from Ghana, Morocco and Turkey, made ends meet as a dishwasher and waiter in Berlin’s Mitte district. At the time, because of his slightly darker 66 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

complexion and broken German, his customers often asked him the ‘understandable, yet terrible, question’: where are you from? People had by turns mistaken him for Moroccan, Arab or Italian. When he told them he was Israeli, some Germans had confessed that he was the first Jew they had ever met. ‘That’s how it was 14 years ago, but that’s over now,’ Dror says, explaining that thousands of Israelis live in the city today. When beach bars opened on the banks of the Spree River, and new bars in which people drank high-proof cocktails on an empty stomach sprouted up everywhere, he began selling soft pretzels as a street vendor. With the help of the contacts he made at the time, he built up a network for his delivery service

I ask if anyone has ever insulted him in his shop for being a Jew. He shakes his head. The only thing that ever happened was that someone once scratched the words ‘Beware, Jew!’ and a swastika on one of the tables. He took a picture of the scrawl and posted it online. Hundreds of expressions of solidarity immediately poured his way from around the neighbourhood. That made him feel better and confirmed his sense that Berlin was his second home. And what does he think about the criticism Israel’s Minister of Finance, Yair Lapid, levelled at young Israelis a while ago on Facebook? He had ‘little patience,’ the minister wrote, ‘for people who are willing to throw into the garbage the only country

NOTHING IN A SHOP LIKE THIS – SO STIPULATES THE NEIGHBOURHOOD AESTHETIC – SHOULD LOOK NEW, EVEN IF IT IS NEW and shop. He notes with pride that he now counts many southern Germans in particular among his regular customers. Some are from Bavaria and always say that pretzels were invented there. Others are from Swabia and make exactly the same claim. But both groups always assure him that his pretzels taste as good as those back home. ‘So, from dishwasher to millionaire in Berlin?’ I ask. ‘From dishwasher to very happy man,’ Oren Dror corrects me. He is not a millionaire, of course, and he doesn’t aspire to become one. Which is why he has no interest in expanding; his delivery service and shop, which now employ a dozen people, are enough for him.

the Jews have, because it’s more comfortable in Berlin’. ‘He’s an idiot,’ Dror responds. ‘He sits there in his chair at the ministry and has no sense of what life is like for young people in Israel who have to hold down two jobs to pay for food and rent. Like any other person, I want to have a choice, and I feel good in this city. Berlin is a one-of-a-kind niche, an oasis unlike any other in the world. Where people leave you alone, where you can be however you want to be. Where you can breathe freely and really fill your lungs with air when you do.’ Translated from the German by Sophie Schlondorff. ‘Berlin Now: The Rise of the City and the Fall of the Wall’ by Peter Schneider is published by Penguin at £9.99

STYLE FILE

BY FIONA LINTOTT PLUS Beauty Jewellery Men’s & On the scene

I PRESENT TO YOU... Laure Hériard Dubreuil The co-owner of cult Miami boutique The Webster opens up her lookbook

Felt hat, £265, Maison Michel (www.michel-paris. com). Below: Tropeziennes sandals, £105, Rondini (www. rondini.fr)

ON STYLE

ON MIAMI ‘I will be at Art Basel this month. I am also hoping to fit in a long ocean swim and some shopping at C Madeleine’s. I’ll head to The Standard at sunset, then have dinner at Casa Tua – I love the communal table – followed by drinks at Soho House.’

ON MUSIC

Dreamcatcher earrings, £430, Aurélie Bidermann (www. aureliebidermann.com)

‘My music tastes are influenced by the time of day. I like to be cheered up in the morning, relaxed in the afternoon, and spend the night dancing. I have always been a fan of Pharrell, Led Zeppelin, Cat Power, Aretha Franklin and Etta James. These days, I also listen to the likes of RTX and Lou Doillon. And samba always put me in a good mood, wherever I am in the world.’

ON RESTAURANTS ‘Domaine de Murtoli on Corsica is a favourite, because the food comes from the estate, which is set in the wilderness – once, wild boars visited us during dinner. Also, La Sponda in Positano for the spaghetti with clams; La Tête dans les Olives in Paris for its lone table; Caviar Kaspia in Paris for the potato with caviar; Sycamore Kitchen in LA for its vegan treats; Narisawa in Tokyo for its French-meets-Japanese food; and Charlie Bird (left) in New York for its wine list and setting.’

‘I will be keeping an eye on collections from Esteban Cortázar, JW Anderson for Loewe, and Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne. Also, I have just discovered Paul Ropp’s Balinese kaftans and I’m obsessed with Aurélie Bidermann’s new jewellery line. I rely on beach bags from Les Habits Neufs, and Eres is my go-to for bathing suits. I also love Yvonne S summer dresses, Hermès canvas pouches, Rondini Tropeziennes sandals, Maison Michel straw hats, and the cute white cotton trousers from Egg in London.’

ON HOTELS ‘I look for privacy, quiet and at least a pool, if not the ocean, but also good food and a great atmosphere in the evening. I really love Aman Resorts, particularly Amangiri in Utah. Il Pellicano (above right) and Villa TreVille in Italy and Verana (below) in Yelapa, Mexico, are favourites, too. The rooms at Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur are amazing, with exceptional views of the Pacific. I also love the exotic, far-away feel of Casa Turquesa in Paraty, Brasil. The spa experience at Uma in Bhutan is unforgettable, marrying ancient holistic methods with state-of-the-art science. I’m also a big fan of the hammam and scrubs at Les Bains du Marais in Paris.’

Bandeau bikini top, £165, and briefs, £145, Eres (www.eresparis.com)

Bolide travel case, £225, Hermès (www.hermes.com)


Etre et avoir

COFFEE-TABLE KUDOS

Looking effortlessly chic takes time and, in actual fact, a lot of effort. But new label Etre Cecile, founded by four fashion insiders, does all the work for you. The soft jersey separates in graphic shapes, motifs and mismatched prints are the first items I look to pack, whatever the destination. www.matchesfashion.com

Foreword by Stella Thomas

This book is a journey through a magical underwater world of experiences from womb to womanhood. Stripped of all artifice, we return to the naked core and true essence of our being, which is often lost in the noise and chaos of everyday life , teaching us to listen to the wisdom and strength of our inner voice.

This month, give pride of place to: Nightclubbing by Richard Young (Richard Young Photographic Ltd, £45), wild times caught on camera; Yves Saint Laurent by Roxanne Lowit (Thames & Hudson, £29.95), a portrait of the designer, and Agua Nacida by Hugh Arnold (Merrell Publishers, £40), underwater nudes

PHOTOGRAPHS: NOAH FECKS; MATT HRANEK; DUDI BEN SIMON/INSTAGRAM

Almanak at The Standard

I’m back from... Copenhagen

We stayed at Hotel d’Angleterre, an opulent affair designed for parties, with wide corridors built to accommodate ballgowned ladies back in the 1800s when it was a private house. Just as decadent is the basement pool and spa, linked by an underground tunnel to the Balthazar Champagne Bar. The Latin Quarter buzzes with cool bars, and busy burger joint Cock’s and Cows at the new Hotel SP34 is a must. Interior-design shops are firmly established, with both Hay and Illums Bolighus easy to find on central street Strøget. Close by is my latest discovery, fashion label Stine Goya. We navigated the canal paths and Meatpacking District by bike, cycling out of necessity after indulging in the food scene, which is as diverse as it is full of flair – Copenhagen has 17 Michelin stars. Everyone mentions Noma, but the name on locals’ lips is Geranium, and we tried the new Almanak restaurant at The Standard, where meals are works of art. The reputation of the city as a hip spot for a short stop is well deserved. www.dangleterre.com

Inside Copenhagen’s Hotel d’Angleterre

STYLE FILE

Buzzwords: PIXEL KICKS The optical illusions that Dudi Ben Simon, the Tel Aviv-based creative director, shared on his Instagram posts, right, have me doing a double take.

Also refer to... The Hunter Original show at London Fashion Week, with its electronic simulacrum backdrop of a submarine. Waze: the app will change your motoring life with warnings and directions from other drivers stuck in traffic. Everyman at Selfridges: the world’s first department-store cinema, on the lower ground floor of the London store. Comfy sofas, plus delicious food from the food hall. Showing this month: Paddington. (www.selfridges.com/everyman)

The K Club hotel in County Kildare

Irish stakes Heading west from Dublin, two things become apparent: the increasing signage for the grandiose K Club hotel, and numerous horseboxes, no doubt en route to one of the many prestigious racing yards that make this the thoroughbred county of Ireland and home to the Irish National Stud. I was here to indulge the guilty pleasure that is outlet shopping at Kildare Village, the pretty but little-known sister to Bicester Village. You don’t come to Kildare for heels and handbags – Bicester’s big draws, such as Céline and Chloé, are absent – though Mulberry and Anya Hindmarch sit comfortably here, and local restaurant Vie de Châteaux wouldn’t be out of place in Marylebone. What you do make the trip here for is the extraordinary discounted homeware and outdoor kit. Brand highlights include Le Creuset, Zwilling, Ralph Lauren Home, Barbour, The North Face and Tog24. www.kildarevillage.com. Items shown left are from the new Mulberry and Barbour collections. Kildare Village stocks discounted products by both labels


hard rock hotel orlando

BALI . BILOXI . CANCUN . CHICAGO . HOLLYWOOD, FL . IBIZA . LAS VEGAS . MACAU . NORTHFIELD PARK . ORLANDO . PALM SPRINGS PANAMA MEGAPOLIS . PATTAYA . PENANG . PUNTA CANA . RIVIERA MAYA . SAN DIEGO . SINGAPORE . TAMPA . VALLARTA

HARDROCKHOTELS.COM

#THISISHARDROCK

©2014 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved.

STYLE FILE What is your skincare routine before and during a flight? ‘I always cleanse and moisturise, then put on eye cream. I love trying different under-eye creams, one of the best is Valmont Prime Contour. And SK-II Facial Treatment Masks are ideal for a flight as they instantly hydrate skin, but I usually forget to use one and fall asleep.’

Do you have a favourite hotel spa anywhere in the world? ‘I always go to the Mandarin Oriental, New York when I want to spoil myself. They do the most incredible couples’ massage.’

What fragrance do you wear? ‘I love Givenchy’s Dahlia Divin because it’s so versatile: it’s great for a meeting, the studio or a night out. As a working mom, sometimes I’m too busy to remember to make time for myself, but perfume can be a reminder to take a minute, breathe and face the day. I’m a bit of a fragrance nut and always burn candles too. Cochine’s Agarwood and Amber is beautiful.’

Do you ever detox? ‘I don’t eat meat, so I stick mainly to fish, vegetables and grains, but I think everyone should have a treat once in a while. My favourite is pound cake; it’s really rich and so much butter is used to make it. So, no, I am not strict to the point where it’s not fun, it should always be fun.’

‘MY MOTHER WORE WHITE MUSK. EVEN NOW THE SCENT STILL FILLS ME WITH HAPPINESS’

BEAUTY KIT: ALICIA KEYS ON HER TRAVELS

The 15-time-Grammy-winning singer tells Tabitha Joyce about the products that strike a chord

‘I am not good with manicures as I find polish chips off my nails really quickly. So I go for a good-quality clear coat such as Givenchy’s Le Vernis Base and Top Coat.’

Do you have any tips for keeping up appearances on long-haul journeys? ‘I always think a bit of highlighter on top of the cheeks and around the eyes gives skin a nice glow. Kiehl’s do lovely natural lip balms and a strong eyeliner always helps.’

What do you like to do to relax? ‘Massages are my favourite indulgence, and acupuncture helps me to balance energy in my body and unwind.’ 72 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

How do you stay fit? ‘I exercise three or four times a week. I do different things each time: boxing, kick boxing, yoga, weight training, running, swimming. I keep it varied so I don’t get bored.’

Which hair products do you use? ‘I like oils and deep conditioners that you can wash out in the shower. I use them to keep my hair soft: Moroccanoil Treatment is the best.’

Did your mother or grandmother pass on any beauty advice to you? ‘I think every girl has that memory of her mother or grandmother wearing perfume and how certain scents evoke comfort and familiarity. My grandmother’s fragrance was the flower gardenia and my mother’s was white musk. Both women are tremendous inspirations to me.’

From top left, Le Vernis Base and Top Coat, £15.50, Givenchy (www.givenchy.com). Facial Treatment Mask, £60 for pack of six, SK-II (www.harrods.com). Dahlia Divin perfume, £64, Givenchy (as before). Agarwood and Amber candle, £45, Cochine Saigon (www.spacenk.com). Lip Balm #1, £9.50, Kiehl’s (www.kiehls.co.uk)

PHOTOGRAPH: JILL GREENBERG/CORBIS OUTLINE

Do you get a manicure before a trip?

STYLE FILE COLOMBIA The rubellite in this white-gold brooch sits atop a stepped arrangement of diamonds and lacquer like a Mayan temple

AUSTRALIA Echoing the dots in Aboriginal art, the 57-carat opal in Cartier’s Opale Australe bracelet is set in an explosion of sapphires

PEACE OF MINE All is clear-cut when it comes to the provenance of a bright new collection, says Jessica Diamond

I

SRI LANKA The Ceylana headband has a 45-carat sapphire in a criss-cross of diamonds like the rippling Indian Ocean 74 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

TAJIKISTAN The world’s finest spinels come from the Kuhi-Lal mine in the Pamir mountains. Cartier has rendered in diamonds the edelweiss flowers that grow here

PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

MOZAMBIQUE This Reine Makéda necklace features a 15. 29-carat ruby, a statement example on the market after Gemfields’ first Mozambican ruby auction

t’s nice to think that when purchasing diamonds transparency is at the forefront of the exchange. And not just in the stone’s clarity and flawlessness, but also in its journey from mine to jewel. The Kimberley Process, set up in 2003, has done much to clarify origin, and much to eradicate the funding of wars in areas rich in resources but ravaged by conflict. With coloured stones, however, it all gets a bit foggy. Certainly, particular areas of the world are shouted about from the rooftops (a ruby from Burma, a sapphire from Sri Lanka, an emerald from Colombia), but consistency of communication by jewellers across a collection is as rare as a 10-carat Vivid Yellow. Ian Harebottle, CEO of the ethical mining company Gemfields, which is a trailblazer in complete disclosure of the origin of coloured stones (and the path thereafter), believes that things are about to change. ‘In the future, if you can’t prove the provenance of a coloured stone over one carat it will significantly reduce the value,’ he says. So it comes as a refreshing change that Cartier’s latest High Jewellery offering is focused on taking exemplary stones from around the world (some diamonds, but mainly eye-popping brights) and celebrating their origins. So much so that each piece is designed with the central stone’s birthplace in mind, another first for the French house. The jewels are grandly – and justifiably – called the Royal Collection.

From a thousand smiles, to a thousand miles.

It’s all yours with THAI flying you across the world. See more sights than you ever imagined and do all the things you’ve always dreamed of. Business or pleasure, just choose one of thousands of available flights, earning Royal Orchid Plus miles along the way, to any of our destinations worldwide. Live the experience with THAI.

STYLE FILE EDITED BY DAVID ANNAND

MAN ON A MISSION

M

y original plan had been to kayak along the Bering Strait between Siberia and Alaska, as the final loop of my challenge to paddle round all the land masses in the northern hemisphere, but events in Ukraine put paid to that. Then a friend of mine, Harry Glover, suggests a new challenge: as I have just passed my motorbike test, we will ride to the capitals of all 25 EU countries that sent troops to Iraq and Afghanistan, to raise money for a few charities, including Soldiers Off the Street. The choice of charity is fitting; we end up sleeping rough alongside our bikes for most of the journey after gendarmes just outside Calais warn us there are thieves about. I’m riding a brand-new Triumph 1700 and there’s no way I’m going to let anyone steal it. We eat in service stations and we ride – autobahns, motorways, side roads as rough as corrugated iron. From France, we journey through the Low Countries, then up into Scandinavia and down through the Baltic states. We have three days of sun. In Slovenia, we wake up in the clouds, soaking wet, and ride through the fog. Our longest journey is 26 hours, from Berlin to Stockholm. This includes a detour via Copenhagen, where we get a photo in front of the city’s famous Tivoli Gardens to go with snapshots of us at the Eiffel Tower, the Brandenburg Gate, the marina in Athens, and a garage in Madrid, where we spend so long hunting for petrol we don’t make it to the Prado or any of the city’s other iconic buildings. We ride down through


the Balkans, along the Mediterranean coast and swing round Iberia. I misgauge the ramp getting off a ferry in Bulgaria and end up with 380kg of bike on its side between two ramps. On the Greece-Albania border, my tyre blows at speed. I go skidding down the road and smash sideways into a wall, only to be saved by my saddlebag. But for all the difficulties, we are wowed by the continent’s beauty: the immensity of the tranquil forest in Finland, birds of prey circling above the empty roads. And its opposite: central Spain, the desert barren, vast and lunar-like. Or Porto Montenegro, the jewel of the ultimate party country, which is beautiful at night, the lights glittering and people everywhere having fun as we trundle past on our bikes, exhausted. Our last stop is Dublin. It’s freezing and, as we drive up from Rosslare Harbour, our hands are so cold we can’t feel them. We finally arrive at 8.30am, only to find all the pubs are closed. The home of Guinness and we’re too early for a pint. www.triumphovertragedy.co.uk

READ THIS A Time Of Gifts. Patrick Leigh Fermor’s account of the incredible journey he made on foot as an 18-year-old in 1933, from Tower Bridge to Constantinople, is a must for anyone undertaking a European odyssey. DOWNLOAD THIS 1952 Vincent Black Lightning. Richard Thompson’s paean to the power of a proper engine captures the insane thrill of riding ‘in leather and chrome’. Put it on the headphones and let rip.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES; ANDREA JONES; REX FEATURES

Former soldier and military diver Pete Bray burns a trail across Europe on a road trip with a cause

DRIVING SHOES Dressing for driving took a knock when Alan Partridge unveiled his ‘cruiser arriviste’ look: tan string-back driving gloves, slacks and canary yellow shirt. However, stylish men everywhere know the importance of sensibly shod feet on the open road. True petrolheads should invest in a pair of these elegant loafers by Gucci. The natty tread would be wasted on an American automatic – save them for when you need killer clutch control, like on the autobahn at Mitternacht. www.harrods.com, £285

1

Newcomers to the scene would be well advised to opt for this jazzy pair by the Italian masters of the soft-shoe shuffle, Tod’s. Crafted from nubuck leather, with woven laces and Tod’s signature studded soles, these Gommino driving shoes are built for comfort behind the wheel. www.mrporter.com, £280

2

Anyone on a genuinely epic road trip should look no further than this pair of super-fast shoes by Polo Ralph Lauren. The Harold’s impact tassels and head-turning colour ensure their wearer will never suffer from the loneliness of the long-distance driver. www.selfridges.com, £285

3

DAVID’S POSTCARD FROM... THE GARDEN OF COSMIC SPECULATION These days, architectural post-modernism is about as fashionable as acid jazz, another product of the early 1990s no one wants to admit they liked at the time. Of course, it’s easier to hide your Jamiroquai records than it is a building like No 1 Poultry, the space-age wedding cake in the middle of the City of London, an embarrassment for all concerned. I wonder, though, whether people would be so down on po-mo if they had fewer of its buildings and better access to its gardens, particularly those by Charles Jencks. His masterpiece is the Garden of Cosmic Speculation in Dumfries, which can be visited just one day a year, and is inspired by science and mathematics (among its features are the Black Hole Terrace and a Quark Walk). On a summer’s day, the follies and fractals were sharp against the lush grass, the mounds and waves all precise and perfect. Remarkably, the humorous hodgepodge that fails in buildings works here, combining grandeur and giggles: a kind of wonder with a wink.

GET THE LOOK: THE FLAMINGO KID

Slip into Matt Dillon’s Long Island style before heading off to your winter-sun beach club

+

+

+

From left: rabbit-felt fedora, £285, Gucci (www.matchesfashion.com); cotton chinos, £355, Loro Piana (www.mrporter.com); Haitian Vetiver, £140, Ermenegildo Zegna (www.zegna.com); melange polo shirt, £75, Felix (www.orlebarbrown.co.uk)

STYLE FILE EDITED BY THEA DARRICOTTE

Rorrington sweater, £430, Belstaff (www.net-aporter.com)

Garavani canvas embroidered bag, £1,555, Valentino (www. valentino.com)

On the scene: Delaire Graff Estate Clutch, £375, Pringle (www.pringle scotland.com)

Emerald-anddiamond Butterfly Motif earrings, POA, Graff Diamonds (www. graffdiamonds.com)

Gala shoes, £375, Jimmy Choo (www. jimmychoo.com)


T

The look: Artful Florals

White-leopard square sunglasses, £125, Stella McCartney (www. avenue32.com)

he smart way to arrive at this sleek winery with lodges is by helicopter, a 25-minute hop from the V&A Waterfront helipad in Cape Town. Up you go, past the nicely ironed top of Table Mountain and the glistening beaches of Camps Bay, inland to the heavenly winelands of Stellenbosch. Set on the crest of Helshoogte Mountain Pass, this precision-built country estate is a verdant, 100-acre cosmos of fine living created by Laurence Graff, chairman of Graff Diamonds. So, yes, after sipping Delaire’s multi-award-winning wines, you may well be moved to visit the in-house Graff Diamonds boutique to further your love of life with a sparkling little necklace or watch. The real wow factor, though, comes from the owner’s personally curated collection of contemporary South African art, which epitomises the wave of creativity now surging through the country. Out in the gardens, a coalition of bronze cheetahs by Dylan Lewis strides majestically forth. Overlooking the swimming pool, the Large Malay Girl Masks by Lionel Smit, a winner of the 2013 BP Portrait Award at London’s National Portrait Gallery, are reason enough to check in. Interiors are by David Collins Studio, and while the art-filled public areas radiate a colour-charged energy, the 10 lodges have an understated elegance and their own plunge pools. In this landscape of bounty and beauty, it pays to let nature speak for itself. NIGEL TISDALL www.delaire.co.za. Doubles from about £540

Parrot full-pleat embroidered skirt, £1,725, Oscar de la Renta (www. harrods.com). Ipanema bikini top, £115; Alessano bottoms, £95, both Orlebar Brown (www.orlebar brown.co.uk). Leather belt, £525, Fendi (www. fendi.com)

Flora Knight print dress, £1,360, Gucci (www. gucci.com)

ALL

INCLUDED UNLIMITED THE TIME

,# *1-6 * 0(!!$ ,$1-020(4 2$1* ,#

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET

,62(+$(,(,& #(,$ 0-3,#(,3.2- 7,$#(,(,&0$12 30 ,21.$00$1-029 -4$,(,&3%%$219 ,#.-021(,"*3#(,&,*(+(2$#-*% *90(4 2$1* ,#

#4$,230$19-12,(/3$3(2$1(,"*3#(,&-4$$123(2$19,*(+(2$# 0$+(3+0 ,#0(,)19 2$0.-021(,"*3#(,&,*(+(2$#"3! (4(,&**.*31 2$01)((,&^95"*31(4$3(*#-%0-%$11(-, *,&*(1'32*$019 0(!!$ ,1$12 $ "'$192 6 2 * 6 2 ,# *1$1-021(,23"( ,#-,2$&- 6(, + (" 90$$$##(,&1†9(.1 5$1,"*3#$#90$$(( ,# **1,"*3#$#+

Love Is All You Need TO BOOK THE WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk See your local travel agent *Mandatory caddies at cost. **For certified divers. Ât selected resorts. †Minimum 3 night stay. Gov & Administration fees apply. +Free from Dec ‘14

2014

World's Leading All Inclusive Resorts 18 Years Running

www.chiccollection.com +44 (0)20 3735 5033 [email protected]

REGENT PORTO - MONTENEGRO

JA MANAFARU - MALDIVES

HIDE & CHIC

REGENT PORTO MONTENEGRO

JA MANAFARU MALDIVES

Escape to the Adriatic and discover Regent Porto Montenegro, the deluxe marina-front property that commands an unrivalled position on Boka Bay. Elegant design evocative of life on the ocean, exquisite cuisine and indulgent spa therapies ensure total relaxation.

JA Manafaru is a luxury beach resort on a 35-acre island situated on the northern tip of the Haa Alifu atoll in the Maldives. With beach bungalows surrounded by lush vegetation, to striking water villas stretching into the sparkling Indian Ocean, the island offers guests experiences of a lifetime.

A Chic Collection hotel is strikingly individual, exceptionally elegant, truly charming and always authentic. In this same spirit, guests of Chic Collection hotels are rewarded with an insight into the local customs, history and culture of the destination. Our network and in-depth knowledge of different cultures and countries allow us to advise

travellers on a variety of authentic travel options. We hand-pick all of our hotel members individually to ensure true quality, genuine experiences and unrivalled excellence. We understand that today’s chic travellers demand individualism, discretion and unobtrusive service, therefore we embrace a truly global range of destinations.

REGENT PHUKET - CAPE PANWA

ENCHANTED ISLAND RESORT - SEYCHELLES

HIDE & CHIC

REGENT PHUKET CAPE PANWA

ENCHANTED ISLAND RESORT SEYCHELLES

Tucked away in a quiet corner of this idyllic island, the Regent Phuket Cape Panwa sets a new benchmark for tropical elegance. Sensitively designed to harmonize with its exquisite surroundings, the gracious accommodation and intuitive service provide the perfect backdrop for your getaway to ‘The Land of Beauty.’

Enchanted Island Resort is a secluded five-star boutique private island hideaway in the Seychelles, featuring just ten luxury pool villas. Each villa has a private infinity plunge pool, walkway to the beach, sundeck, shaded outdoor space, French bathtub and an outdoor rain shower.

Vogue Café Moscow Kuznetsk Bridge 7/9, Moscow, Russia

Vogue Café at The Dubai Mall Dubai, UAE

Vogue Café Kiev Fairmont Grand Hotel, Kiev, Ukraine

Vogue Lounge Bangkok MahaNakhon CUBE, Bangkok, Thailand

voguecafe.com |

PHOTOGRAPH: SQUID FROM TINCAN IN SOHO BY MATTHEW BUCK

TRENDWATCH

SHOPS THAT ONLY SELL ONE THING A seafood restaurant with a twist just opened in London’s Soho. The twist is applied by hand, to a tin-opener, which is essential here since all the seafood comes in tin cans. Meanwhile, elsewhere in the world, cafés where the only foodstuff on the menu is toast are popping up all over San Francisco. In Tokyo, a boutique that sells naught but KitKats is the flavour of the month. In Paris, two esteemed chefs have compared recipes, combined their encyclopaedic knowledge of haute cuisine and brought the world a takeaway van, now semi-permanently parked on the Quai Branly, that dishes out nothing but perfect little choux-pastry doughballs. There’s something quaintly nostalgic about these Shops That Only Sell One Thing. We live in an age of superabundance, infinite variety, Amazon Prime. But until relatively recently most shops only sold one thing – meat, vegetables, candlesticks. Even the arrival of mass production didn’t make for masses of choice, or not at first. Sure, you could get a motor car in any colour you fancied – ‘as long as it’s black,’ as Henry Ford quipped of his Model T. But choice of the kind we take for granted today would have blown our great-grandparents’ minds. There are, of course, a number of similarly single-minded stores that have been around for ages. Some say they’d rather get soaked to the skin than unfurl any umbrella that didn’t come from the Parasolerie Heurtault in Paris. Others will warm their hands exclusively in the gloves of the gorgeously old-school Ganterie Boon in Antwerp. And those with a feeling for felt continue to pad softly to Johanna Daimer Filze, a tiny boutique in Munich that for the past 130 years has laid on a delirious carnival of bright colours and tender textures in this most sober and stony of city centres. STEVE KING


Oh, you pretty things If you think the Caribbean is over-exposed and hugely expensive, take another look. Here’s our selection of the small hotels so good that other guests don’t want you to know about them

84

Living area at Kamalame Cay in the Bahamas. Opposite, the sea is just a dive away at The Caves in Negril, Jamaica

Tucked away in the verdant hills of Gingerland, the colourful Golden Rock Inn has an enchanted-garden feel. Once a 19th-century sugar estate with a cluster of stone buildings and 100 acres of rampant forest, it was rescued and transformed six years ago by New York-based artists Brice and Helen Marsden. The old counting house is now the foliageframed reception, and architect Ed Tuttle (well known for his work with Aman Resorts) designed the dining areas and restaurant terrace where, surrounded by serene reflection pools, you can feast on jerk pork with pineapple relish or mahi-mahi in red coconut curry sauce. Miami-based landscape architect Raymond Jungles coaxed the grounds into a wild, freewheeling maze of bamboo trees and boulders, palms, orchids and exuberant tropical flora where dragonflies and hummingbirds flutter past. The Marsdens have added their own artistic touches, too: bright red gates, a monochrome-striped floor around the Olympic-sized pool, and contemporary sofas by designers including Patricia Urquiola and the Campana Brothers in the public spaces. The 11 cottages vary in style: one is a two-storey suite in the thimble- shaped mill; some have blond-wood floors and Moroccan rugs, others have avocado-coloured concrete verandahs, bamboo four-posters or Peruvian wool blankets by John Derian. None of them have air-con, TVs or minibars. It’s hip but low-fi, a sanctuary where even Anna Wintour has been known to decamp over Christmas to escape and unwind.

Book it +1 869 469 3346; www. goldenrocknevis.com. Cottages from about £130

PHOTOGRAPHS: COOKIE KINKEAD; ANNE MENKE/TRUNK ARCHIVE; ZACH STOVALL

Golden Rock Inn, Nevis

Little Good Harbour, Barbados Islanders travel miles to the old seaside fort in the fishing village of Shermans to eat at this hotel’s restaurant, The Fish Pot. The most sought-after seats in the house are those overlooking the sea, particularly at sunset when you can order lobster, grilled prawns and mahi-mahi while watching the sky slowly turn from fuchsia to mauve. But not many regulars have cottoned on to the New England-style, sea-facing wooden cottages in the lush tropical gardens (there are also a handful of suites above the restaurant). Each has a wraparound veranda, a fully equipped kitchen and a light, airy living room filled with books and Barbadian designs. The teak beds upstairs are enormous and the bathrooms small but perfectly formed. Breakfast isn’t always quite as spot-on as dinner, but the banana bread – freshly baked each morning – is delicious. There’s a tiny spa and two blissful pools, the

smallest in the style of a miniature Roman bath with stone columns and water features. Laze in the sun with the resident tabby cat or clamber over the rocky headland to search out hidden coves and glimpse the rock-star mansions that back onto the bay (watch out for the tide, which comes in quickly so that by early afternoon there’s only a narrow strip of white sand peeking out from under the shallows). On Friday nights, the nearby Six Men’s fish market is the place to go for ice-cold Carib beers and grilled meat, eaten with greasy fingers while perched on wooden benches.

Book it Essential Hotel Collection (+44 20 8614 0077; www.essentialhotelcollection.co.uk). Doubles from about £195 87

Turquoise Cay, Great Exuma, Bahamas This former fishing lodge, on a remote stretch of sandy beach just outside the village of Hartswell, was renovated and reopened as a hotel last year. The eight simple but elegant rooms, each named after the different shade of blue painted on the walls, are all in one main building (come with a gang of friends and book the lot). Round wooden tables are teamed with wicker chairs and lobster-print cushions; bedside lamps have smooth glass bases filled with a single flower and sand, and from white wooden balconies guests can look across the water to Little Exuma, the smaller island of the pair, linked by a one-lane bridge. Borrow kayaks and paddleboards or jump in the car to visit deserted Pelican Beach and cross the clearly marked line of the Tropic of Cancer. Or simply laze on one of the daybeds suspended over the beach, with a local Sand beer in hand, before cooling down in the freshwater infinity pool that cascades into the bay. There’s a smart Peruvian-Asian restaurant, ONE80, serving fresh sushi, seafood stews and ceviche, with chilled house music, white whirring ceiling fans and an outdoor wooden deck for lounging beneath the stars. If you want to venture out in the evening, head to Santana’s Grill Pit on Little Exuma, a groovy little spot that’s a favourite with Johnny Depp.

Book it +1 242 357 0329; www.turquoisecay.com. Doubles from about £255

88

The Caves, Jamaica In the West End of Negril, on limestone cliffs a 10-minute drive from the big-name juggernaut resorts by the beach, The Caves is one of Island Records founder Chris Blackwell’s trio of Jamaican hotels (he also owns Golden Eye and Strawberry Hill). It’s all-inclusive and child-free, so the rum punch flows from the minute you arrive at the green-and-blue reception hut and sink into the African graphic-print cushions. Scattered along the cliff top are 12 wooden, thatch-roofed cottages, some split-level, each painted a different colour and with its own hammock on a private sun deck. Here, it is all about the ocean: everything faces it and leads to it. If you can pluck up the courage, do as the ‘jumpers’ do and cool off by repeatedly leaping into the water from a 20-metre cliff. Alternatively, ask Paul, the resident diver, to take you snorkelling on Sandy Key Reef. Breakfast is served whenever, wherever (and there are no menus). Order huge platters of fruit followed by eggs, any style, and add a dash of Busha Browne’s spicy jerk sauce (it tastes good on everything). For lunch and supper, there are usually two choices: perhaps freshly caught conch and salad, followed by ice creams in crazy flavours including stout or grapenut. Afterwards, climb the steep steps to the candlelit bar built out of the rocks. It’s all so relaxed; hippy enough that you can wear your bikini for supper, but smart enough that you know you’re in good company.

Book it PHOTOGRAPH: ZACH STOVALL

+1 876 957 0270; www.islandoutpost. com. Cottages from about £300, all inclusive

Take a short hop from mainland St Vincent to Port Elizabeth, then drive east along a potholed road. Two miles on, the groves of wild palm trees part to reveal the stone-walled Beach House at Sugar Reef. Set in 65 acres of a former coconut plantation, this hotel is like a Caribbean of yesteryear, a throwback to the 1960s. New York-based interior designer Jonathan Berger freshened up the place two years ago, and he seems to have been inspired by British theatre designer Oliver Messel, whose fabulous creations in the 1960s and 1970s defined a generation of private homes in the Caribbean. White latticework shutters frame jalousie windows and let in the warm breeze. Chef John cooks up dishes such as callaloo lasagne and the best lobster roti on the island, which are eaten beneath the enormous driftwood chandelier in the main dining

90

room, at wooden tables facing the ocean. Of the eight bedrooms, there are three in the Beach House with Matouk linen sheets on four-poster beds, driftwood mirrors and screened French doors that swing open onto a terrace fronting the white-sand, coconut-husk-strewn Crescent Beach. The other five are about a mile uphill in the French House, with its polished mahogany and stone archways, and a wraparound veranda with a plunge pool. Cycling through the estate, kayaking or snorkelling make afternoons melt away; in the evenings, gather round and play board games to a background chorus of singing frogs.

Book it +1 784 458 3400; www.sugarreefbequia.com. Doubles from about £75

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALDO ROSSI; ZACK STOVALL

Sugar Reef, Bequia

The Dunmore, Harbour Island The most famous beach on Harbour Island, a spit of land three miles long and a mile wide, is Pink Sands. Here, in a certain light, the grains beneath your feet really do glow a soft, peachy colour. Parked right in the middle of it is The Dunmore, something of an institution since the 1960s. The vibe is elegant without being remotely stuffy; barefoot beach club with a touch of old-fashioned Bahamian glamour. The current owners are former guests who took over four years ago (people really do get addicted to the island) and hired Nassaubased designer Amanda Lindroth to kit out the 14 beachfront and garden cottages with teak furniture, rattan blinds and graphic-patterned cushions and throws (you can also rent the private residences when they’re not in use). Laze about on monochrome-striped deckchairs

by the pool or beneath turquoise umbrellas on the palm-fringed beach (despite the East Coast Americans who have been coming here for years, it never feels too crowded, even at Christmas). The restaurant produces some of the best food on the island – potter up and tuck into lobster, breadfruit fish tacos, snapper sandwiches with sweet potato or truffle fries, and a large Dark and Stormy (there’s a more sophisticated menu in the evening). If you want to do more than flop, there’s deep-sea fishing and kite-surfing, or hire a golf buggy and tootle down to the bayside where most of island life unfolds.

Book it +1 242 333 2200; www.dunmorebeach.com. Cottages from about £215

Kamalame Cay, Bahamas A 15-minute plane ride from Nassau but a world away from the glitz and crowds, private island Kamalame Cay is a little bit like the Mustique of 50 years ago. Owned by the Hews, a sixthgeneration West Indies family who spotted it on a sailing trip in the 1990s, the island is a secluded slip of white sand edged by turquoise water, with some of the world’s best and leastexplored, kaleidoscopic coral gardens and a barrier reef a mile from shore. For the last two years, dashing son David and his partner Michael have been in charge, transforming this charming, little-known hotel. The bougainvillaeadraped houses sprinkled along the shores among the thousands of coconut palms have been spruced up with antiques, Balinese armchairs, seashells and well-thumbed books. There are clay tennis courts and a spa pavilion on stilts over the water, and a conch shell-lined sand pathway leads through a thicket of palms to a pool and beachfront Tiki bar, where there are often BBQs and colossal bonfires at night. In the Great House dining room, the linens are now prettier, the glassware finer. And the seriously good South Asian-influenced Bahamian food is attracting a discerning crowd, who arrive by speedboat for long PouillyFuissé-fuelled lunches of fresh crab dim sum, Caprese salads with homemade buffalo mozzarella and warm bread fresh from the oven of the on-site bakery. Celebrity fans include Penélope Cruz and Nicole Kidman, and the British wing of the Weston family, who took over most of the place last Easter.

Book it +1 876 632 3213; www.kamalame.com. Doubles from about £310

Inn at English Harbour, Antigua A very charming, plantation-pretty hotel, the Inn has its own crescent of sand with great views of the yachts streaming in and out of the harbours on the other side of the bluff. It may have opened in the 1960s, but this place has stayed under the radar, along an un-signposted turn-off on the climb to Shirley Heights (steel drums can be heard from tea-time on Sundays). Bordered by thick palm forest, it feels protected, yet it is in a cracking location close to all the action. Bedrooms are in painted clapboard buildings with deep verandahs, fringed with the palest blush-pink bougainvillaea. Tropical red hibiscus lines the paths and yellow-bellied bananaquit birds dive-bomb the pool. Inside, four-poster beds are curtained by soft white muslin with scalloped edges, Penhaligon’s soaps sit atop mahogany washstands in the bathrooms, and rattan planter’s chairs face the water. It is crisp and uncomplicated, simple and straightforward. Plans are in place to add more rooms – another 10 to the current 28 – but introduced in a slow,

considered way, so as not to disturb or overcrowd. There’s a great pair of floodlit tennis courts, a little spa, a boutique with rails of dresses made from gorgeous pastel-coloured thick linens, and two restaurants, one right on the beach for a club sandwich and another further up the hill. This is not a lock-you-in, all-inclusive sort of place. Which is just as well, as even though you might expect fresh spaghetti and risotto from the Italian owners, it’s often lamb chops and mint sauce for supper. The fun and games of English Harbour and Nelson’s Dockyard are just over the water using a shuttle boat that goes as and when you want, so you can get out and about for a bite to eat at The Admiral’s Inn, a pizza at Paparazzi, or a rosé-soused afternoon at Catherine’s Café Plage.

Book it ITC Luxury Travel (+44 1244 355 527; www.itcluxurytravel.co.uk) offers seven nights from £1,819, half board, including flights and transfers 93

North Beach, Barbuda Visitors to North Beach arrive by tiny, eight-seater plane, touching down at Barbuda airport’s single green shed before taking a speedboat, which arrows through the mangroves, zipping across what locals call ‘the lake of glass’ and round the headland. Soon, five whitewashed cottages come into view, sitting on stilts above an emerald lagoon. A conch-sprinkled stretch of sand acts as reception, the translucent sea is the pool and Douglas, the resident donkey, the easygoing concierge. The beach rules – no iPhones, no internet, no interruptions – provoke instant Caribbean torpor. Sipping a Wadadli beer and gazing across the snapper-packed sea, the only disturbance is the wind rustling the palm trees and water breaking over the reef. Reuben James, North Beach’s Barbudan owner, hand-built the rustic, nautical-vibe cottages over 28 years, while squeezing in work as a conductor, politician and engineer. These days he’s head chef and barman, and his celebrated punch – rum, lime, grenadine, bitters and nutmeg – slips down easily with a grilled lobster supper. If swinging in a hammock gets tiring, nip to Princess Diana beach, where the K Club (Diana’s former retreat from the paparazzi, owned by fashion designer Mariuccia Mandelli, who has batted away multi-million-pound offers for the lease) lies on a three-mile curve of white sand.

Book it +1 268 721 3317; www.barbudanorthbeach.com. Cottages from about £250, all-inclusive, including transfers

PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE TOY

The Lone Star, Barbados Easy to miss from the roadside, the white Lone Star building, now the hotel reception, still has the blue signage left over from its days as a garage. You’d never know that for the last few years this has been one of the most fashionable spots on the island. It’s just got a smidge more chic thanks to its new British owner David Whelan who, last year, revamped the property, which stands alone on a pristine stretch of beach in Alleynes Bay. The restaurant, which is incredibly popular – particularly for Sunday brunch and dinner – has car-themed photography on its white walls, and staff dressed in mechanic-style boiler suits. The food is top-notch: try the snapper, blackened to perfection with just the right amount of spiciness, and the seafood pizza. Five suites with modern four-poster beds are named after classic cars

and have either beachfront or garden terraces. Some, such as the Buick Suite, have a more New England feel with navy-and-white striped cushions and white slatted wardrobes; others, such as the two-bedroomed Lincoln in the Beach House, are more Ralph Lauren, with exposed brick walls, church candles and shells dotted about, and a roll-top bath in the bathroom. Work up an appetite swimming with the turtles that hatch and nest right in front of the hotel (there’s no pool, but loungers on the beach are for guests only and some of the suites have private gardens) then, for lunch, stroll to Ju-Ju’s beach bar for a delicious fried flying-fish sandwich.

Book it +1 246 419 0599; www.thelonestar.com. Doubles from about £310

CONTRIBUTORS: Viia Beaumanis; Christine Ciarmello; Martha Craig; Ella Cross; Clemmie Hambro; Fiona Lintott; Vanessa Pritchard; Nigel Tisdall; Issy von Simson; Hannah Winters

Clockwise: Piazza Verdi; a trattoria table on via Sammartino; grilled sea bass at Zia Pina restaurant; a notepaper chandelier at BB22; a bakery on via Porta Carini; a stairway at BB22; the Cuticchio puppet theatre on via Bara all’Olivelli; artist and musician Lucrezia Testa Iannilli

can’t get you with its inky mix of grit and grandeur, palermo inspires

96

out of my head obsessive devotion. by antonia quirke. photographs by bill phelps

BRICKS

Part punic, part phoenician, part Roman, part Arab, the city of Palermo is strong stuff. Snugly spectacular in its bay setting at the foot of Sicily’s Monte Pellegrino, it looks, as a garibaldino approaching it from the sea once said, like a city imagined by a poetic child. Colourful relics of Middle Eastern domination mix with the Norman and baroque, so the back of a building might look entirely different from its front or sides. This has always struck me as impeccably gallant: an acceptance of this, a pragmatic incorporation of that. Beauty, rot and salvage. Renaissance palaces next to hovels, 194 churches, and the domed roofs of one-time mosques – all reminders of countless invaders. History is a tumble, a chaos. Sunbathing one afternoon in the roofless remains of a Greek temple that sits by the pool at the Grand Hotel Villa Igiea as casually as a plastic café chair on a pavement, I noticed that someone had drilled holes through its ancient columns to fix an electric plug for a minibar. Momentarily I was outraged, a bustling inglese with a National Trust cardigan pin. But as a cloud of cabbage whites idled past an American supine on his lounger, time thickened with that drugging Sicilian

in the remains of a greek temple, i noticed that someone had drilled holes in its ancient columns to fix an electric plug for a minibar intensity that comes on as though gigantic pyres have been lit on the surrounding hills, and I lost track of my indignation. In Palermo things happen slowly. Only once have I noticed something abruptly change. Suddenly, four years ago, everyone started smoking roll-ups rather than the governmentsubsidised cigarettes that overnight had been ruinously inflated in price. But even this change seemed immediately eternal. Roll-ups suit Palermo better anyway – the unpacking of the tobacco, the painstaking parting of the sweat-ruined Rizla in the August damp. In the hot months, you notice the city’s rampant dereliction more. Streets and squares

in the historic centre, still shattered from the 1943 bombardments, unpack their rubble like the innards of pillows, leaving little trails even into the famous La Vucciria market with its stalls selling multicoloured Slinkies and pigs’ trotters. In the entirely collapsed Piazza Garraffello you’ll find an anatomically immaculate, gigantic beating heart graffitied on the wall opposite what was once an elegant bank. Beyond a stretch of myrtle hedges off the via Roma, outside the Conservatorio di Musica Vincenzo Bellini, students sit on 17th-century stone slabs, gripping their oboe cases, murmuring to one another, heads touching. Where am I now? I’m lost. Bin the map for a start. There may be a lovely simplicity to the old city’s layout – two straight, perpendicular roads dividing everything into four quarters – but my three maps each tell me something different, especially when the streets condense in the south-east, towards the tough and ancient Albergheria quarter, into alleys where teenage boys race their boxer dogs alongside pimped-up scooters. Here I saw a man leading a harnessfree, sun-tired horse past the unexpected gold of an acacia tree into a dim Moorish courtyard, his fingers scratching its nose. Horses are everywhere in Palermo. On the motorways in the early hours of the morning they are raced illegally, the survivors left to gently plod tourists in comfy little traps to and from the Catacombe dei Cappuccini, where the embalmed corpses of monks and city prelates hang from hooks like damaged puppets. One such tour, through the shabby grandeur of the streets radiating from the Quattro Canti – a grand, rounded intersection of elaborate balconies and cornices – which should have lasted 30 minutes, becomes an hour (roadworks, the milling of pedestrians), and a furious argument rages between driver and tourist. The level of aggro is raised to such a pitch that the police get involved, sauntering off their motorbikes and making such flamboyant gestures in everyone’s direction you feel sure it will end with a

Opposite, clockwise from top left: an alleyway near the cathedral; a city view from Monte Pellegrino; actor, theatre director and puppeteer Mimmo Cuticchio; lace for sale at the Mercato del Capo 99

Clockwise: the lido at Mondello; a vintage motorbike on via Materassai; a stallholder at La Vucciria; via Roma; ice cream at a gelateria on Piazza San Domenico; stormy sky over Palermo; a shop in the Mercato delle Pulci; Mimmo Cuticchio at work

swipe on someone’s temple. But as usual it dissipates to nothing, overlooked, as everything in this city is, by stone saints and shrines to the Virgin, who is to be found even in the knife shop off the Piazza Caracciolo with her eyes raised in a peasant’s ecstasy, surrounded by a halo of candles and meat cleavers. And to our petitions let answer be given.

BLOOD

My friends luca and domenico tell me that whenever they pass a derelict building in the city, they feel a mounting rage. To the English, such a thing is an absurdly romantic prop of the past, but to a Sicilian it is an expression of the foulest moral decay. The mafia, which still controls so much of the construction industry here, cares only for quick-buck new buildings, not old. They would raze the entire city to the ground if they could, rages Domenico, and stick up a forest of brutalist high-rises, like they already have in what remains of the once-fragrant olive and lemon groves that enclosed the old city walls. Mafia, mafia, mafia. It is the secret litany of every exchange. In the afternoon, off the Piazza della Kalsa, just moments from the marina where the Prince in The Leopard rode his carriage in the moonlight, I stop to watch the evening begin. At 4pm come the swallows in a rapid, swooping carnival. At 5pm a man starts frying cockles in a cauldron. At 6pm Signore Ciccio makes his chickpea pancakes for 10 cents each, and people queue to transport bags of them away on Vespas. At 7pm fresh swordfish is put on ice, and braziers are lit outside restaurants in readiness for early diners. From the open doors of a nearby church comes the sound of choir practice, going over phrases imperfectly,

the mafia would raze the entire city to the ground, rages Domenico. mafia, mafia, mafia. it is the secret litany of every exchange. studiously. A waiter tells me that this is the choir of Father Mario, a priest once cherished for his ability to heal, for the laying on of hands – a mystic even. Apparently he has just been released from prison, where he was sent for refusing to tell the police what had been revealed to him in confession by mafiosi. ‘He has changed,’ says the waiter solemnly. ‘Now he is sad.’ Struck by their seriousness in contrast to the wacky Neapolitans, I once asked Luca if he thought Sicilians were pessimistic. ‘Oh no,’ he said, carefully shaking his head, ‘not pessimistic. But our wisdom lies in expecting the worst.’ You can feel this grief 102

in the churches. The statue of a spindly, begging Christ with deep welts in his knees in La Gancia on the via Alloro. The 1485 fake head in a glass case a couple of chapels along, made to look like Christ immersed in a fathomless sleep. In Palermo they love nothing more than a stricken Jesus, and a cherub, thighs rippling with so much fat you can scarcely believe that mere cement keeps the creature stuck on. Even the food here tastes extra visceral. The spleen sandwiches. The caponata made with aubergine

the woman across from me on a flight to palermo recited the rosary from take-off to landing, pausing only to buy a scratchcard the colour of deep bruises, simmered until its skin eases away like a stocking in your mouth, leaving just the tanned flesh that always feels slightly like cannibalism. Wild mulberries in the Ballarò market. Still-bleeding tuna, squasheddripping figs and honey as rust-dark as henna. Once, on a flight to the city during a blustery February, the woman across from me recited the rosary from take-off to landing with only a break to buy a scratchcard from the stewardess, nodding sagely when the purchase proved to be a dud. ‘In Naples,’ Domenico says, ‘all hell is sure to break loose, but they know it will be OK. In Palermo, we just pray all hell doesn’t break loose in the first place.’

ICE CREAM

Drive 15 minutes out of the city in spring to the fishing village of Sferracavallo, and eat fresh sea-urchin spaghetti while watching the multicoloured fishing boats rocking so intensely beyond the sharp rocks that when you finally get up to leave you walk with a sailor’s roll. A little closer to town is the resort of Mondello, where wealthy palermitani came in the 1920s and built elegant weekend villas, and where from June to October crowds of school-free teenagers cling to changing huts like monkeys, buying ice cream at the seafront gelateria Latte Pa. Fourteen-yearold girls with salt-mussed hair snaking down their slim backs stand about, not all of them model-perfect – there is zero body Opposite, clockwise fascism in southern Italy – but imperious. The from top left: boys hold themselves more shyly, infinitely a rocking-horse younger-seeming, figuring out their attack. workshop on In Sicily, says Luca, the girls are a nightmare. via IV Aprile; fish ‘Mio dio,’ he sighs, ‘the bowing and scraping on a harbourfront required, the declarations of eternal love – stall; a monk really they think they smell like paradise, walking along it’s just ridiculous.’ I console him with ice Corso Vittorio cream flavoured a tooth-raspingly sweet and Emanuele; Mimmo Cuticchio’s hands complicated double-caramel nougat. ‘Better

Opposite, clockwise from top left: a street-corner shrine; Giuliano von Escher, son of Palermo-based furniture designer Alfred von Escher; restaurant tables on via Torremuzza; an old car in the city centre

than Naples?’ Luca challenges. I nod. ‘Let them have their pizzas,’ he mutters. Ice cream is worshipped in Palermo, where many even claim it was invented. In betting shops, hardened gamblers stand in front of TV screens with eyes screwed up in anxiety, licking frantically on a cone. In café after café, businessmen thrash out deals over hilariously fluted, whipped-creamed copa nostras. At Ilardo, moments from the Piazza Santo Spirito, or at La Preferita further into town, mothers and daughters lean against walls silently eating brioche buns filled with mint choc chip, intent only on finding any precious drips. After such a cold binge, the warm glow of Palermo’s stone hits the eye anew. The city was once known as the granary of ancient Rome – wheat was grown in vast estates outside the walls – and it’s as though the shimmering crop long ago cast the whole place a golden yellow. There is nothing for it, even during the brightblinding dog days, but to walk as far as your limp will take you, through the shrubland of the Piazza Magione with its lushly flowered cloister tucked into one corner, and marvel at how in the middle of this crammed city you

can suddenly feel as though you are in some remote Persian village, legs aching amongst dust and dried roses. Then out onto busy via Garibaldi, past the cabinetmakers’ workshops and garages, faded palaces and lock-ups for knock-off beer, and emporiums piled with panamas and trilbies (how Palermo adores a hat). Only here and in Rajasthan have I seen shops entirely devoted to mending the wheels on suitcases or the rope soles on canvas shoes. Palermo pulls you along with smells of roasting coffee and rotting boxes of oleanders. Street football games divide to let you pass, and housewives lower baskets from their high apartments down to fishmongers, sarcastically haggling five storeys up into the windless air. This is the world’s best city to be lost in, the best place to be aimless. Sooner or later you’ll find a main street, or recognise the man who sells dried persimmons, or the museum with the wall painting by the Inquisition-tormented sailor accused of romancing a mermaid. This is a city that becomes familiar far faster than others, and with such a weirdly vivid intimacy it’s as though you had been here before, and each step and turn is already a memory.

THE PICK OF PALERMO PRETTIEST B&B

SECRET PALACE

Gorgeously romantic, secret and elegant, BB22 lies behind a ruined square whose few remaining residents play their tango records out of their windows at night and passers-by stop to dance. Approached by a prodigious flight of marble steps, but worth the climb. Largo Cavalieri di Malta 22 (+39 091 326214; www.bb22.it) Doubles from about £90

At the Palazzo Ajutamicristo, an unassuming, dusty wooden door leads into a couple of mini-courtyards full of banana trees. Dating from 1485, the arched terraces are like something you might see in Jaipur. Expect to encounter the owner, a baron, reading in the garden. He doesn’t seem to mind strangers wandering in off the street and there’s no charge for entry. Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 23 (+39 091 616 1894; palazzoajutamicristo.it)

BEST SELF-CATERING Tucked away in the oldest part of the city, Chez Jasmine has a little roof terrace overlooking a church dotted with hundreds of swallows. The shop opposite sells the best dried fruit in the Mediterranean. Vicolo dei Nassaiuoli 15 (+39 091 616 4268; www.chezjasmine.biz). Doubles from about £90; minimum stay three nights

MAP: NEIL GOWER

BEST RESTAURANT Modest but cherished and entirely authentic, the Trattoria Torremuzza da Peppuccio serves fresh swordfish cooked on braziers in the street, and a caponata with flaked almonds worth crossing the city for. Walk to Ilardo around the corner for ice cream afterwards. Via Torremuzza 21 (+39 091 252 5532). About £30 for two

STREET FOR PEOPLE-WATCHING

BEST PASTA Two minutes’ walk from the imposing Teatro Massimo is the tiny Pasticceria Amato. It serves the best ragù or sardines with sultanas on torchietti pasta to opera singers in the know who want to eat big rather than talk. It’s more of a canteen than a restaurant, and cheap as chips. The chef occasionally takes time out from yelling at the washing-up boy to help his granddaughter construct her Peppa Pig castle while all around diners absorbedly chow down. The

smell of fresh basil drifts onto the street. Via Favara 14–16 (+39 091 333223). About £10 for two

The Via Chiavettieri comes to life from around 5pm, when bar owners put out their tables and start serving wine and olives. By 11pm the street is packed and electric – nobody here is going home any time soon.

COFFEE TO KNOCK YOUR HEAD OFF

MOST INTERESTING AFTERNOON

At Ideal Caffè Stagnitta, coffee is ground and served by meticulous men in white coats. Their double espresso, served in a paper thimble, will bring on a cardiac seizure. Probably why they only accept payments in cash. Via Discesa dei Giudici 42–44 (+39 091 617 2513; www.idealcaffe.it)

The anti-pizzo movement, set up by courageous students in protest against the mafia, is going strong. They run deeply personal walking tours, talking about the history of organised crime in Sicily and the impact it continues to have on every stone of the city. www.addiopizzotravel.it 105

let’s talk shop NEW YORK JUST CAN’T BE BEATEN FOR ATTENTION TO RETAIL, SAYS MANHATTAN NATIVE HANYA YANAGIHARA PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICOLE FRANZEN

106

o

ne of the many good things about being a New Yorker is the liberty, the obligation, even, one feels to complain about one’s hometown. Happily, there are plenty of things to complain about. The weather: so cold! And then: so hot! The traffic: so congested! The subways: so slow! The tourists: so many! And, in recent years, one can add to the list what seems to be the unstoppable mallification of the city, created by an influx of money and visitors (a projected 55 million in 2015): so depressing. But while it’s true that the last two decades have transformed certain neighbourhoods in downtown Manhattan and Brooklyn to the point of unrecognisability, it’s also true that despite the mass-market stores and general hipsterfication, the one-of-a-kind shops that have always defined the city’s

mostly fiction and non-fiction, all beautifully arranged, and the patrons are a mix of New York literary society, long-time Villagers and book-industry types. 154 West 10th Street (+1 212 741 2069; www.threelives.com) Dashwood Books It may not look like much, but this subterranean shop on a quiet street in NoHo stocks the city’s best selection of photography books, with an emphasis on collectors’ editions, rare volumes and monographs by Japanese artists. This is the place to come for that hard-to-find reissue of Nobuyoshi Araki’s Sentimental Journey and small-press chapbooks by the next generation of great fashion and fine-art photographers. One word of advice: if you see something you like, buy it or you may regret it forever; along with collectors, the store is popular with local photo editors. 33 Bond Street (+1 212 387 8520; www.dashwoodbooks.com)

sense of itself are as abundant as ever. With new money has come a sense of retail innovation and stylistic diversity. The result is a sort of golden age of New York shopping, with everything you ever coveted, and plenty you never knew you did, available to buy. Here’s where not to miss.

Book Court This family-owned, skylit bookstore on a bustling street in the pretty Cobble Hill neighbourhood of Brooklyn is a throwback to a kinder, slower-paced New York. The staff are helpful, the clientele is local, the wooden floors are gleaming and the events, including readings by prize-winning writers who make this spot a regular stop on their tours, are often packed. Literary junkies might find themselves running into one of Brooklyn’s large population of writers here, such as Jhumpa Lahiri, Jonathan Safran Foer and Jennifer Egan. 163 Court Street, Brooklyn (+1 718 875 3677; www.bookcourt.com) McNally Jackson Don’t be fooled by the crowded café, shelves of imported fashion magazines or location on a busy strip of boutique-heavy Nolita, just down the block

BOOKS Three Lives & Company As rents grow higher, independent bookshops – that Manhattan mainstay – are finding it increasingly difficult to stay in business. But at Three Lives, a knuckle of a store on the corner of a leafy street in the West Village, it’s possible to believe that the city is still as it appeared in early Woody Allen films, where bookstores were an essential part of the cultural scene. The cosy space stocks

from Vince and Diptyque. Although this place may resemble a hipster hangout, at its heart it’s an old-fashioned community bookstore, with excellent contemporaryfiction, art, cookery and travel sections. (Along with scones, coffee, greeting cards, the latest obscure literary journals and, yes, hipsters.) Even if you just come in for the people-watching, you’ll probably end up leaving with a book or two; the young staff are all avid readers and eager to make suggestions. 52 Prince Street (+1 212 274 1160; www.mcnallyjackson.com)

INTERIORS The Future Perfect This two-room home-goods store in NoHo has always been the vanguard of contemporary design. Here you’ll find beautiful and inventive objects (a windchime/mobile that triples as a hanging sculpture with

bits of ceramics and leather dangling within a brass ring), furniture (a deep leather-and-oak sofa that looks like something dreamt up between Le Corbusier and Donald Judd), and best of all, lighting (Lindsey Adelman’s glassorb-and-metal spider-shaped chandeliers), much of it made by American designers. Even better? Everything can be shipped internationally. 55 Great Jones Street (+1 212 473 2500; www.thefutureperfect.com) John Derian Looking around this sliver of an East Village store is a little like rummaging through the attic of that well-travelled, delightfully eccentric uncle we all wish we had. There’s an idiosyncratic and highly personal mix of Derian’s signature découpage pieces (from paperweights to cake stands), Astier

This page, above from left: Catbird jewellery store; rugs at Love Adorned; Maryam Nassir Zadeh boutique; Mast Brothers chocolate shop; colourful fabrics at Michele Varian. Opposite, John Derian homeware store. Previous pages, from left: Mast Brothers; Goods for the Study stationery store

DESPITE THE MASS-MARKET STORES AND GENERAL HIPSTERFICATION, THE ONE-OF-A-KIND SHOPS THAT DEFINE THIS CITY ARE AS ABUNDANT AS EVER

110

de Villatte candles, elaborate paper flowers, carvings of North American birds, colourful Syrian glass chandeliers and all sorts of exquisitely chosen odds and ends, including tote bags, postcards and hand-plaited brush brooms. Come here to buy a gift for even the pickiest aesthete. The annexe sells rugs, cotton bedding, scarves and cushions. 6 East 2nd Street (+1 212 677 3917; www.johnderian.com) Michele Varian Yes, it has all the design staples you need for bohemian loft life: metallic-flecked wall coverings and textiles; shimmering burnt-velvet cushions; glossy pendant lamps. But this bright, high-ceilinged shop on the edge of Chinatown really excels as the place to find curiosa and home

gallery directors, film-makers and fashion executives browsing the well-edited rails for floaty maxidresses by Christophe Lemaire, sparkly collar necklaces by Shourouk and patent-leather brogues by Dieppa Restrepo. 123 Norfolk Street (+1 212 673 6405; www.mnzstore.com) Bird This Brooklyn mini-chain (there are three locations: Cobble Hill, Park Slope and Williamsburg) may not win points for imaginative decor: the wood-floored spaces are welcoming and cheerful, although not especially memorable. But who needs fancy fixtures when the smart, wearable clothes and accessories are so on-point? And who needs a trip into Manhattan when you can get your Proenza Schouler, 3.1 Phillip

But the most memorable styles might be by the house’s own label: high-waisted twill trousers; dove-grey suede stackedheel clogs; linen wrap tops. 205 Mulberry Street (+1 212 925 1005; www. creaturesofcomfort.us) Maison Kitsuné What’s more chic than a French streetwear clothing line? A French streetwear clothing line inspired by Japanese design, of course. In this Art Deco-inflected boutique just north of the Flatiron district you’ll find quirky but classic menswear, including buttondown shirts with the brand’s signature fox logo (kitsune is Japanese for fox), and cute-but-never-sweet women’s clothing: crisp cotton minidresses and shrunken cardigans. There are also Oliver Peoples

FORGET SQUASH OR TENNIS: THESE DAYS, THE MANHATTAN SPORT OF CHOICE IS SURFING. AND THE CLUBHOUSE IS A STORE AS RESPONSIBLE FOR CREATING THE TREND AS PROVIDING ALL THE EQUIPMENT accessories you never thought you required, including cast-porcelain, gold-dipped deer antlers, modernist brass candelabras and paperweights in the shape of beetles, jackalopes and bat skulls. The store also stocks a collection of jewellery in precious and semi-precious metals. 27 Howard Street (+1 212 343 0033; www.michelevarian.com)

CLOTHES Maryam Nassir Zadeh There are two types of women in the world: those who want everyone to know exactly which labels they’re wearing and those who don’t. For the second group, there’s this sunny Lower East Side boutique, where you can join the regular clientele of

Lim and Comme des Garçons fix right here? There’s also a good selection of pieces by local designers, including Rachel Comey (flattering dresses), Zero + Maria Cornejo (drapey, bubblehemmed tunics and tops) and Pamela Love (Southwest-style costume jewellery). 203 Grand Street, Williamsburg (+1 718 388 1655; www.shopbird.com) Creatures of Comfort The Nolita location of this LA-based boutique has every label the thinking woman loves, from MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela to Isabel Marant, as well as pieces from up-and-coming and indie lines, such as tribal-inspired brass pendants from A Peace Treaty and minimalist leather-andrubber handbags from Building Block.

sunglasses, delicious citrus-scented creams and soaps from Aesop, and terrific unisex bags in bold colours from WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie. The store leads directly into the lobby of the NoMad hotel: the perfect place for a postshopping tipple. 1170 Broadway (+1 212 481 6010; www.kitsune.fr) Pilgrim Surf and Supply There’s a good selection of rubber fins, flippers and surfboards at this Big Sur-by-way-ofBrooklyn store, but the real reason to visit the space, with its wide-plank wood floors, sawhorse tables and metal lamps, is for its range of board shorts. They come in bright colour combinations inspired by classic Repp ties, alongside cotton T-shirts and sweatshirts, waxed canvas tote bags

Below from left: homewares at Michele Varian in Chinatown; surfboards at Pilgrim Surf and Supply; Bklyn Larder, a deli and cheese shop in Park Slope, Brooklyn; a selection of chocolate bars at Mast Brothers. Opposite, a display of edible goodies at Bklyn Larder

Above, Three Lives & Company bookshop, which was opened in the West Village in 1968 and named after a Gertrude Stein novel

and light anoraks. Everything, in other words, that the urban surfer needs to pretend he’s beachside in California, not wandering the streets of Williamsburg. 68 North 3rd Street, Brooklyn (+1 718 218 7456; www.pilgrimsurfsupply.com) Saturdays Surf NYC Forget squash or tennis: these days, the Manhattan status sport of choice is surfing. And the New York surfer’s clubhouse is Saturdays Surf NYC, a chilled-out store that’s as responsible for creating the trend as it is for providing all the necessary equipment and accessories its practitioners need, be it sleek boards, wetsuits, towels or wool beanies. There’s also plenty of gear for enthusiasts whose interest in surfing might be limited to the aesthetics, including mint-scented body wash from Baxter of California, cedar candles and

photography books documenting the surf culture in 1950s California and modern-day Japan. Aside from outposts in SoHo and the West Village, the brand also has stores in Tokyo and Kobe. Don’t leave without buying a bag of Saturdays’ roasted coffee beans, after sampling a cup from its front-of-shop bar. 31 Crosby Street (+1 212 966 7875; www. saturdaysnyc.com) A Détacher Mona Kowalska’s made-inNew York label is coveted by a certain sort of intellectual woman in the art and design worlds; her boxy, flatteringly cut silk and cotton separates and shift dresses, deconstructed knitwear and woodenheeled shoes are avant-garde without being alienating. The store, a small, cement-floored space in Nolita, also stocks a well-chosen selection of cotton pouches,

antique jewellery and beauty products, including the neroli-scented Rodin face oil that has become a cult favourite. 262 Mott Street (+1 212 625 3380; www.adetacher.com)

CONCEPT STORES Love Adorned In America’s frontier days, every small town had its own general store, a place where you could buy the necessities of daily life and a few flourishes, too. That 19th-century concept gets a 21st-century update at Love Adorned in Nolita, which sells all the staples of urban bohemian hipsterdom, from flasks of boutique parfumeur Strange Invisible’s haunting scents to haute dreamcatchers (if one can imagine such a thing), beard wax and fir-scented incense coils. There’s also a wide variety

YOU SMELL THIS SHOP – FROM ITS DELICIOUS, DELIRIUM-INDUCING PERFUME OF CHOCOLATE – BEFORE YOU SEE IT

Above, the Brew Bar at Mast Brothers, where baristas use coffee-brewing techniques to create drinks from hand-ground cocoa beans

of jewellery in a good range of prices, as well as plenty of cheap thrills – little cloth toys, leather pouches, kaleidoscopes, notebooks, coloured pencils – just made for guilt-free impulse purchases. 269 Elizabeth Street (+1 212 431 5683; www.loveadorned.com) Goods for the Study Anyone who runs a bookstore in this day and age is by definition a nostalgist, so it’s not surprising that the second venture from the owners of independent bookshop McNally Jackson is just as stubbornly dedicated to the charms and accessories of a pre-digital age. This store sells deckle-edge notebooks and desk accessories (oversized neonprinted wooden dice, lightweight rulers, stationery), as well as framed prints, calling cards, fountain pens and blotters: everything to fulfil your fantasies of the

writer’s life. And there’s not a single iPad in sight. 234 Mulberry Street (+1 212 219 2789; www.mcnallyjacksonstore.com)

JEWELLERY Marie-Hélène de Taillac The Parisian jeweller is known for her dazzling use of coloured gemstones: her signature rainbow necklace is a delicate gold strand dangling briolettes in every hue on the spectrum. And her Upper East Side boutique is an elegant composition of jewel-bright shades, from the robin’s-eggblue walls and the silver-leafed ceiling to the intimate salon’s key furnishing, a Jansen table filled with thousands of sparkling aquamarines. One could spend hours here trying on de Taillac’s whimsical, Indian-inspired confections, and the knowledgeable staff will assist with any

custom order you may have. All it takes is money. 20 East 69th Street (+1 212 249 0371; www.mariehelenedetaillac.com) De Vera Less a boutique and more a cabinet of wonders, this shop, located on a suddenly trendy street in southern SoHo, is truly sui generis. Its exquisite (and pricey) selection of jewellery, all designed by the owner, is made mostly from antique pieces collected around the world. An assortment of Edwardian paste shoe buckles are refashioned into a statement necklace, old grey diamonds are clustered into heavy, swinging chandelier earrings and carved-bone cameos are mounted on rings. Aside from the jewellery, there are plenty of other objects, presented museum-style in glass cases and oversized vitrines, that you won’t find anywhere else, including

Above from left: scented candles and gifts at Catbird; The Future Perfect, known for its contemporary pieces; the shopfront of Goods for the Study in lower Manhattan; Dashwood Books, a specialist in photography titles. Opposite, teapots and canisters at Bellocq tea shop in Brooklyn

Japanese lacquer boxes, tiny beetles perfectly rendered in papier-mâché and relics of various provenance and material. And with its shiny, black floors and faint air of incense, the space itself is as mesmerising as the treasures it holds. 1 Crosby Street (+1 212 625 0838; www. deveraobjects.com) Mociun This crisp, clean, sunlit shop in Greenpoint is minimalism at its best, and yet there’s plenty to dazzle the eye, including woven-cotton baskets in Agnes Martin hues, simple, lathe-turned blondewood cups and tactile, rough-glazed ceramics. Best of all is the broad selection of distinctive jewellery. Check out the

Tom Binns Outside this store, it’s full-blast West Village loveliness: wellkept townhouses, pretty budding trees, cobblestone streets. But inside Binns’ closet-sized atelier, it’s a riot of 1970s punk-inflected costume jewellery. This is the British jeweller’s only store, and it’s well stocked with his most distinctive and over-the-top pieces, including chokers fashioned from strand upon strand of oversized fake pearls and lengths of Swarovski crystals, and French Regency-style necklaces made with neon-dipped rhinestones instead of diamonds. 41 Perry Street (+1 917 475 1412; www.tombinnsdesign.com)

money won’t be together for long. On the other hand, they’ll be able to say they’re now the owner of one of the much-imitated jeweller’s trademark pieces, be it a buffed-gold bracelet modelled on an olive wreath, or a pair of multi-stone earrings that resemble a slowly melting icicle. Along with Muehling’s own creations – his workshop dominates the back of the space – there are also pieces by some of his friends and fellow jewellers, as well as his gorgeous forays into other mediums, including hand-painted glass, Nymphenburg porcelain and cast-bronze candlesticks. 52 White Street (+1 212 431 3825; www.tedmuehling.com)

WITH ITS DEEP-LILAC WALLS AND BUTTERCUP-YELLOW CANISTERS, THIS TEA SHOP LOOKS AS IF IT HAS BEEN DECORATED BY A DUTCH MASTER WHO GOT INTO A TIME MACHINE AND WOUND UP IN BROOKLYN turquoise cabochon-and-diamond rings and necklaces dangling a pendant of silver molded to resemble an emeraldcut stone. 224 Wythe Avenue, Brooklyn (+1 718 387 3731; www.mociun.com) Miansai Even the most jewel-averse man won’t be able to resist the nautical-themed pieces in this airy, laid-back shop in east SoHo. Nor will women: the solidbrass, screw-close bracelets, which come in rose-gold, yellow-gold and silver finishes, fishing-hook-inspired pendants and braided leather bracelets in smart colour combinations, from pale blue-grey to grass-green, are urbane takes on the classic New England maritime aesthetic. In warm months, there’s a garden for sitting and sipping one of the teas that are brewed at the front of the store. 33 Crosby Street (+1 212 858 9710; www.miansai.com) 114

Catbird This sweet little Williamsburg boutique, with smoke-blue walls, floorto-ceiling cabinets made for opening and a scattering of mirrors, is any jewellery collector’s standby. The selection is whimsical without tipping into quirky, with an emphasis on unusual engagement rings, such as Satomi Kawakita’s delicate pronged rubies, featherweight diamond bands and layering bracelets: fragile loops of gold chain meant to be draped around the wrist and hand. The store also produces its own line of gold knuckle rings and pavé-diamond earrings, many costing less than $100. 219 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn (+1 718 599 3457; www.catbirdnyc.com) Ted Muehling Pity anyone with a love for beautiful objects and a roll of cash in their bag who happens upon this beauty of a Tribeca boutique: they and their

FOOD The Meadow In a world where you can buy anything, anywhere, The Meadow’s dedication to its highly limited range of offerings – just-cut seasonal flowers, bitters, salts and artisanal chocolates – feels both anachronistic and charming. But if the breadth of products available is narrow, their depth is not, which means you can walk out with a $20 bar of single-source Hawaiian chocolate or a vial of black sea salt gathered and airdried in Kyushu, Japan. The earnest shop assistants can help you negotiate the small West Village space, fetching ever-more unusual bars of chocolate from the upper shelves and passionately detailing the difference between one kind of salt and another. 523 Hudson Street (+1 212 645 4633; www.atthemeadow.com)

MAP: MARIKO JESSE

116

Bklyn Larder Although this forevercrowded Park Slope provisions shop is best known for its cheese selection, you’ll also find everything else needed for a picnic in nearby Prospect Park, including meats, salads, quiches and sweets: the house-made pumpkin-seed brittle, fig-and-nut bars and chocolate macaroons are particularly addictive. And the bounty of made-in-Brooklyn goods – Empire Mayonnaise’s Srirachaflavoured spread, McClure’s spicy pickles, Early Bird’s chunky granola and Bklyn Larder’s own jars of tangerinescented sugar – are perfect presents for your fussiest food-obsessed friends. 228 Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn (+1 718 783 1250; www.bklynlarder.com)

Bellocq With its gorgeous, deeplilac walls, distressed wooden floors, shaggy floral arrangements and shelves lined with the company’s signature buttercup-yellow canisters, this tea shop looks as if it has been decorated by a Dutch master who got into a time machine and wound up in Greenpoint. Tea connoisseurs and neophytes alike are encouraged to browse, sniff, sample and simply marvel: some of the handcrafted blends, especially the ones made colourful with dried flowers, seem almost too pretty to sip. Products include the brand’s own riff on classic chai and tea accessories such as cups, pots, strainers and whisks. 104 West Street, Brooklyn (+1 800 495 5416; www.bellocq.com)

Aedes de Venustas Every obscure perfume, candle, room spray or incense stick ever made can be found in this subterranean West Village boutique, which resembles, in the best way, a Victorian courtesan’s boudoir. The owners, an elegant and engaging German couple, are experts at choosing fragrances for novices who might be overwhelmed, and are generous with samples. Aedes also makes its own scents, and anything in the store can be gift-wrapped in a beautiful box topped with a nosegay of fresh flowers. 9 Christopher Street (+1 212 206 8674; www.aedes.com) Min This dark, den-like store on a quiet stretch of eastern SoHo is lined with wood-panelled bookshelves, each

LESS A BOUTIQUE AND MORE A CABINET OF WONDERS, THIS SOHO STORE SELLS OBJECTS, PRESENTED MUSEUM-STYLE IN GLASS CASES AND OVERSIZED VITRINES, THAT YOU WON’T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE

Above from left: clashing patterns at Michele Varian; Mociun jewellery shop in Greenpoint, Brooklyn; homeware designer and shop owner Michele Varian; Maryam Nassir Zadeh boutique; display cases at Ted Muehling jewellery store. Opposite, a curious watch display at De Vera in SoHo

Mast Brothers You smell this shop – from its delicious, delirium-inducing perfume of dark chocolate – before you see it. The company, one of the pioneers in Brooklyn’s growing band of artisanal food producers, makes small batches of self-consciously old-fashioned bars in inventive flavours, including Pecan Maple and Serrano Peppers, from this self-consciously old-fashioned space in Williamsburg. The salvaged-wood counters recall an early 20th-century general store; there are pendant lights and subway tiles on the walls. All the bars are beautifully packaged in vintageinspired Italian paper and make excellent souvenirs. 111 North 3rd Street, Brooklyn (+1 718 388 2625; www. mastbrothers.com)

PERFUME AND BEAUTY Twisted Lily This store in the Boerum Hill neighbourhood of Brooklyn is not much to talk about design-wise – clean white walls and blonde-wood floors – but inside, the offerings are much more interesting, complex and dark. We’re talking about the fragrances on offer, of course: hard-to-source home scents that smell of burning cypress; small-batch perfumes redolent of absinthe. You will discover notes of everything from saddle leather to Granny Smith apples, styrax to whiskey. And there’s also plenty of lovely rose and violet scents for the traditional shopper. 360 Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn (+1 347 529 4681; www. twistedlily.com)

of which is stocked with perfumes, colognes, soaps, incense, blotting papers and body washes from mostly small, mostly artisanal producers in the USA and Europe. The more expensive and lesser known lines are arranged in neat tableaux on various tables and display cases, and all are meant to be tested. The staff are helpful without being overbearing, although if you crave some extra attention, or don’t know where to start, they’ll sit down with you on the big leather sofa that dominates the centre of the space and conduct a patient, in-depth (and very serious) interview to ascertain your deepest olfactory desires. 117 Crosby Street (+1 212 206 6366; www. minnewyork.com)

A SECRET SECTION OF TANZANIA’S SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK HAS JUST OPENED UP TO VISITORS FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 20 YEARS. ANTHONY SATTIN GOES ON THE PROWL FOR THE BIG CATS THAT HAVE FLOURISHED IN THIS WILDERNESS, BEFORE KICKING BACK ON ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LAKES IN AFRICA. PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLIVER PILCHER

118

he other week i sat around. I sat, and watched, and waited. And I heard a lion roar. It sounded as though it was just outside my tent. I held my breath, hoping for clarity, and for a moment even the cicadas stopped twitching their tymbals and the bush fell silent. Then Lewis laughed. ‘What better way to announce dinner?’ No better way to start a safari. The previous evening I had dined on… I’m not sure what, on a plane from London. Twenty-four hours and several short bush flights later, I was in the Serengeti, Tanzania’s blue-chip National Park. It felt about as remote as it is possible to get. Thompson’s gazelle grazed on the dirt track that

passes for an airstrip just minutes after the small Cessna had landed. The Serengeti is savannah, mostly sloping flatlands, green in the rainy season and burned in the summer. The part I had come to, in the park’s remote east corner, long famous for its kopjes – beautiful rock outcrops that break the horizon – is now also known for its big cats. (Namiri Plains, the new six-tent camp where I was staying, echoes this: namiri means ‘big cats’ in Swahili.) For the past 20 years or so, this part of the Serengeti has been closed to everyone other than researchers to preserve its pristine condition as a truly wild place, allowing the wildlife and fragile short-grass plains to proliferate in a protected environment. It’s certainly an arrangement that seems to have suited the big cats because there are more of them there than elsewhere in the park. A baker’s dozen of lion, presided over by a large male with a magnificent shaggy mane and a taut, muscular frame, were lying around a water hole immediately below Namiri Plains when we arrived at camp. The lion were silent as dinner was served – beef, fresh salads and South African wine – but there was a breeze, and the large mess tent was open to the

view, so I knew they could smell our presence. Later, lying in darkness, having noted that there was no fence, no ditch, in fact nothing between myself and the lions but a thin membrane of canvas, I listened to the night noises and smiled at my luck at having got so far from the familiar so quickly. If you have been on safari, you will know that national parks and reserves in Africa insist that you keep to the roads and do not drive across open country. You may also know the sinking feeling of being part of a posse of Jeeps tracking a cheetah or lion while it, in turn, tracks its prey. There is none of that around Namiri Plains, and for two good reasons. This camp is the first allowed into this 200sq km zone and, because the wide-open plains provide few natural campsites, it could be the only one here for the forseeable future. So there is little chance of running into other vehicles and very few roads, so most driving has to be cross-country. And that is good news, because along with a sense of being remote, the other thing we long for on safari is exclusivity. We also want to see a kill. We do want blood on safari; in the old days, when we shot wildlife with rifles, a certain amount of it was

Opposite: elephants, at Namiri Plains in the Serengeti. They have also been introduced to Rubondo Island, over the past 30 years. Previous pages: one of six tents at Namiri Plains camp, set beneath giant acacias in a seldom-seen eastern corner of the Serengeti 120

guaranteed. Now we are onlookers, shooting with cameras, we want to be there when a lion or cheetah catches its breakfast or dinner. To do that requires a guide who understands the ways of the wild, and also a good dose of luck. I had the former in Lewis Mangaba, a Shona man from Zimbabwe who can read all the signs, knows about natural healing and can smell animals on the wind. And there was no shortage of game: as day broke, we spotted a lioness with three cubs between the camp and the watering hole. I assumed they were part of the pride I had seen the night before. The mother paid us no attention and, as she slouched through the grass towards a hartebeest, Lewis began to

offload some knowledge. ‘Lactating females need to feed every day… You see the hartebeest? The lioness needs to be very close, maybe 10 metres, if she is going to catch it… she can only run 500 metres… she has small lungs and heart, and will overheat…’ While he continued – explaining why she was sitting where she was, with good sightlines, and downwind so that prey couldn’t smell her – the lioness trotted away from the cubs and I stopped listening, distracted by her concentration, power and beauty. By the time we stopped for a picnic breakfast, we had spotted reedbuck, Grant’s gazelle, impala (‘good cheetah fodder’), steenbok, Maasai giraffe and

‘mud boys’ (bull buffalos). By midday we had added an ark-ful of other creatures: an impressive elderly elephant shadowed by a younger student bull, busy learning the ways, a thundering herd of buffalo, an enormous martial eagle, an improbable secretary bird with head-feathers like something concocted for Ascot and then, with the sun high and hard overhead, seven more lionesses in the shade of an acacia. ‘You see how the youngest is grooming the elder in the hope she will be groomed in return? …Such brilliant killing machines…’ But there were to be no kills, no blood, and we returned to camp to do as the game was doing, to doze through the heat of the day.

Above, a cheetah at Namiri Plains, which was shut off for two decades to help preserve the untouched wilderness; it now has the highest density of big cats in the Serengeti, with between 20 and 40 cheetahs. Lions are best seen in December and January during the wildebeest and zebra migration

It was good, for someone who spends too long looking at screens and book pages, to stretch my eyes on vast landscapes, to peer into that epic light in the hope of seeing… ‘You see warthog running on the horizon?’ Lewis asked that afternoon as we bouncing over the scrub. I was delighted that I could. ‘Look to the left… the termite mound.’ We were still some way off, but I could see what he was pointing at: an adult male cheetah, as relaxed as a dog in front of a fire. He was full-bellied, ears pricked, back legs crossed, black eyes sharp, the stripe down his cheek like the dark tracks of tears. Cheetahs are the fastest creatures on earth, but this one did no more than look lazily back at us, scratch, yawn and settle. A pair of lapwing screeched nearby. There were kills, plenty of them – one near the camp, if the bellowing of

lion that night was anything to go by – but still I didn’t see anything. (The screams from an American woman in the next tent – at least 20 metres away – were to do with a spider or some crawling creature.) But by the next day I understood that one of the greatest thrills of safari is not blood, but an appreciation of the complex interaction of animals. With Lewis it was easy and I was soon learning to read the belly profiles of predators to see how recently they had fed, to note the ear-messages of elephants and to work out the age of the big cats from the pigment shading of their noses. There was fascination, too, in the smallest detail of that interaction. Breakfast that second morning was taken beneath an acacia where a leopard had feasted: secretary bird and guinea

fowl feathers were scattered across the dried earth. But also here were dried spoor, animal footprints, remains of other kills, a hide, the intricate work of a poisonous tunnel-web spider, a single pink flower, a mongoose skull… And then there was the earth. Not the red I had expected, but grey dust from the nearby Oi Doinyo Lengai volcano, which erupted six years ago and which had mixed with rainwater to form a cement-like floor. zanzibar is the most obvious place to go after a Serengeti safari, but three and half hours and several short flights in the other direction was somewhere I had always wanted to go. Lake Victoria is the largest tropical lake in the world. At 210 miles from end to end, it is an inland sea set in the

124

126

MAP: MARIKO JESSE

heart of Africa: from here, water flows thousands of miles north along the Nile towards the Mediterranean. As we came in to land, a ring of green in the south-west corner of this vast expanse of water turned out to be Rubondo Island, one of the leastknown Tanzanian national parks, an island some 17 miles long, covered in dense forest and uninhabited apart from parks staff and visitors. Chimpanzees were released here in the 1960s and since then elephant, giraffe and colobus

hissed – but they had already seen us, a pair of immense and improbable shapes out for an afternoon graze. They stared hard for a few minutes then continued to crop the grass, making their ponderous way towards the water before finally slipping in. Their passage took an hour, one of the most pleasing I have spent in a long time. At the beginning of this safari I had felt frustrated at the lack of a kill, at the sleepy cheetah, lions licking blood from their paws, at the lack of

guide called Deos. As the Tomcat’s engines cut a deep wake in the water and we headed for the fishing grounds, he told me tales about tilapia and Nile perch, which can grow longer and heavier than a man, but I had few expectations. I had already heard how poachers had depleted the stocks and how fishing here wasn’t what it used to be. So I was surprised, delighted, an hour out, when my spool began to spin – click clack – and I reeled it in a perch. It flapped furiously on the deck,

monkeys have also been introduced, to join native vervet monkeys, hippos, bushbucks and sitatunga, a marshloving antelope. Rubondo looks and sounds like a tropical island, with birdsong by day, the chatter of unseen creatures at night and the glimmer of fireflies near the shore. Because the forest is so dense and the island so large, it can be hard to see chimps or elephants, although I did try, marching between a park ranger with a single, bolt-action rifle and Habibu, another excellent guide, who pointed out the spoor, the dried droppings, the insects, the thorn trees. We were heading for a treehouse on the island’s swampy edge to look for some of the many birds that live around the island, or pass by on one their migrations. But once up in the hide, it wasn’t just a bird that I spotted. ‘Is that a hippo?’ ‘No,’ said Habibu, ‘it’s a rock… But that,’ pointing elsewhere, ‘is a croc. And,’ he continued after a few moments, ‘it seems to be dead: it was in the same place yesterday.’ Dead croc. Can we take a look? Down the steps, the ranger in front, over terrain more suited to water lilies than feet, we got close enough to the croc to see the pattern of its skin and the formidable jaws. Being on foot, down on the ground, changed everything: I immediately felt vulnerable, a feeling that seemed justified when the crocodile suddenly moved. Not dead, then, just waiting for a kill. We stood and watched as it progressed threateningly through the shallow water and disappeared. It was then Habibu spotted the hippos – ‘Don’t move!’ he

action. Now that I was on the ground, I was happy just to watch, to feel alert and alive. Rubondo National Park includes the waters around the island. One day I went out in a kayak to trace the line of the shore and watch monkeys watching the sunset from the treetops. Another day I went out with a fishing

then lay still, beaten. Deos measured it, quickly because it was a catch not a kill and, at two kilos, was too small to keep. As I tossed it back into the lake there was another of those magical interactions when a fish eagle leapt off its perch high up a lakeside tree and soared gloriously overhead, dropping out of the sky and plunging into the lake.

A seven-night Tanzanian safari with Journeys by Design (+ 44 1273 623790; www.journeysbydesign.com), combining three nights at Namiri Plains camp and four nights on Rubondo Island, Lake Victoria, costs from £3,849 per person, including all ground arrangements, meals, drinks, park fees and all internal flights. International flights with Kenya Airways cost from £809 return to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

STICK AROUND PRODUCTION: KRISTINA RADERSCHAD

WATCH OUT, BERLIN: PORTO IS GETTING HOTTER BY THE DAY – AN ART AND DESIGN HUB SHRUGGING OFF ECONOMIC GLOOM WITH A GIDDY LATE-NIGHT SCENE. BY KATE MAXWELL. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTIAN SCHAULIN

128

Post-it notes with illustrations by various artists at O! Galeria. Opposite, the Rem Koolhaas-designed Casa da Música

T

he first time I visited Porto I was looking for a sunny weekend away that wouldn’t significantly aggravate my personal debt crisis – an austerity break, if you will. It’s no secret that Portugal has been in the economic doldrums for the past few years and that generally means lower hotel rates and restaurant prices. More affordable than reflective-white Lisbon, and the birthplace of one of my favourite beverages (white port, best with tonic and a sprig of mint as an aperitif), I’d heard that Porto also had fine arts-and-crafts stores on its undulating medieval streets. The downside, I imagined, was that Porto would be an early-to-bed, woundlicking sort of place, as low on spirit as it was on prices. But, as I discovered on that and subsequent visits, I couldn’t have been more wrong. At 1am on my

first night, a cool crowd, refreshingly diverse in age, was still drinking vodka tonics and swaying to Primal Scream in the courtyard of Casa de Ló, a cake shop by day that spun 1980s and 90s classics under a glitter ball by night. A couple of blocks east, at Café Candelabro – another mixed-use space, this one a café-bar/bookshop – women with the skew-whiff fringes beloved of the Spanish were draped around guys in heavy specs and box-fresh Nikes, everyone spilling onto the pavement with their glasses of Douro red. Even the seagulls were still up, weaving and cawing over the narrow streets, a reminder that Porto sits just inland from the Atlantic. Now, five years on from my first visit, Porto’s ascent continues to gather pace. And, unlikely as it seems, to some degree the recession is the cause. Enterprising creatives have made the most of low rents,

and there has been an influx of visitors thanks to a web of new low-cost flight routes, bold architecture (such as Rem Koolhaas’s lopsided Casa da Música) and the opening of enough hip hotels in converted townhouses to rival Barcelona. Add good-looking bars and restaurants that riff on the city’s artistic and culinary heritage, quirky design shops and galleries, and you have all the ingredients for a perfect fortified-wine-lubricated weekend. It’s criminal to stay in bed on a pellucid blue-sky day in Porto (as inevitable here as a throbbing head, in my experience) when the colour overhead matches the azulejo tiles on the Santo Ildefonso church and the grand, beaux arts São Bento station. There are tiles on just about every wall in the city: geometric browns beside faded delft blues, sandwiched next to yellow and white floral reliefs – the place is covered in decorative design, and these aesthetic

Above, from left: Ema Ribeira, founder of O! Galeria; a display at CASSIO Home Gift Style, Paulo Cassio’s design shop at The White Box House. Opposite, an installation by Amalia Pica at the Museu de Serralves, the contemporary art gallery designed by Alvaro Siza

THE CITY IS COVERED IN DECORATIVE DESIGN,WITH WALLS OF GEOMETRIC BROWN TILES BESIDE FADED DELFT BLUES, SANDWICHED NEXT TO YELLOW AND WHITE FLORAL RELIEFS

131

principles would seem to be applied to everything Porto produces, from the humblest bag of sea salt to avant-garde fashion. A Vida Portuguesa, in the central Clérigos neighbourhood, has revived handmade Portuguese products including soaps and sardines in striking retro packaging; there are black ceramic swallows and woollen blankets, all displayed on oak shelves in an airy space up a grand staircase. A short walk downhill, past baroque churches done up in floor-to-parapet gold leaf, off squares of hulking neoclassical buildings, is Lobo Taste, where traditional crafts are given a contemporary twist by local interior designer Paulo Lobo. The goggle-eyed papier-mâché heads with bright yellow beards, Peter Pan collars and scarlet, O-shaped mouths reminded me of the wax votives I’ve bought in shops selling religious artefacts – men’s and women’s heads with serious haircuts; feet, breasts, colons, hearts – you’re meant to burn the bit that ails you. Lobo Taste also sells rugs in gloriously clashing

with as much pillowy bread with green herb-and-garlic butter as you like. There are several lovely restaurants like Traça in Porto; choosing a decent hotel is easy, too. On my most recent visit I stayed at the Favorita guesthouse on Rua Miguel Bombarda, Porto’s answer to Columbia Road in London, minus the flower market. It has a cluster of contemporary art galleries, including O! Galeria, where hundreds of humorous illustrations line the walls – among them a trio of hirsute, barrel-bellied men in various states of undress that I bought – and stores selling trendy vintage bric-a-brac and mid-century lighting. Favorita has white, minimalist rooms off a winding staircase, a sunny garden and a popular basement restaurant. But unless you’re under 5ft 5in, like me, make sure you don’t get the room in the eaves, at the top of those vertiginous stairs or you’ll leave with the head bumps to prove it. Close to Bolhão market, where you can eat fresh sardines at trestle tables packed in between food and flower stalls, is The

THERE ARE DINERS THAT ARE UNCHANGED SINCE 1950, WHERE YOU HAVE TO TRY REALLY HARD TO PUSH THE BILL OVER £10 colours, perfectly turned straw hats and handmade sunglasses – and it’s next to Traça, my favourite restaurant in the city. It’s hard to have a bad meal in Porto. At one end of the spectrum are the diners with strip lighting that look unchanged from the 1950s (save for the TV blasting football), where they serve wonderfully tasty hunks of pork and fried hake fillets, flaky coconut pastries and custard tarts – and you have to try really hard to push the bill over about £10 for two. At the other end are spots like the white-tablecloth DOP in the 14th-century Palácio das Artes, whose name stands for degustar e ousar no Porto (‘tasting and daring in Porto’) and which serves inventive and exquisitely presented dishes: foie gras cloaked in Granny Smith apple slices; squid and lobster on waxy potatoes haloed with a delicate, cloud-like foam. Somewhere in the middle is Traça, a stylish restaurant with bare-bulb lighting, geometric-tile flooring and on-trend antlers adorning the walls, where about £7 will buy you a delicious two-course set lunch and coffee: intense asparagus soup followed by a sort of salt-cod fish pie, for example,

White Box House, another immaculate hotel in a converted period building, with slouchy 1960s leather sofas, wrought-iron balconies and a few azulejos here and there. There’s also Miss’opo, an industriallooking guesthouse/restaurant that goes heavy on the concrete walls and floors but manages to feel cosy thanks to pot plants, mismatched china and furniture and large-format photographs in the hallways. The raucous restaurant serves a dailychanging menu of Portuguese dishes. It’s next to Caldeireiros, a new tapas spot where I ate cod fritters and shrimp in a garlicky wine sauce and, again, was pleasantly surprised when the bill came. They may vary in appearance, but what all Porto’s guesthouses, and its restaurants, have in common is an aura of authenticity and a sense of place. Yes, they have the usual pendant lamps and polished concrete, and they’re patronised by a smattering of bearded folk in beanies and blood-supply-restricting jeans, the ubiquitous uniform of the international hipster (I even heard that Berlin artists were moving in, snapping up houses and turning them into live/work spaces). But

Right, from top: soaps at A Vida Portuguesa; CASSIO Home Gift Style; tuna with quails’ eggs and salmon with shrimp at Terra restaurant. Opposite, a view of Clérigos tower from Praça de Lisboa

Casa de Chá da Boa Nova restaurant in Matosinhos. Left and below, O! Galeria. Bottom left, Miss’opo guesthouse and bar

134

they have an identity that is entirely their own, which is not always something that can be said for nouveau-hip parts of Paris, London, San Francisco, even Stockholm; there are no blink-and-you-could-be-inBrooklyn moments in Porto. And if I were a Berliner who had been priced out of Kreuzberg, I’d move to this beautiful city, I thought, as I walked over the Luís I bridge to Vila Nova de Gaia. Built by a colleague of Gustave Eiffel, the bridge looks back onto the higgledy-piggledy terracotta-and-yellow houses of hilly Ribeira, pockmarked with satellite dishes. At Taylor’s port cellars in Gaia, which smell of blackcurrants left out in the sun, a relic of England’s

affluent suburb of Porto with its own burgeoning crop of hot restaurants – Cafeína, designed by Paulo Lobo; Terra, its sister restaurant opposite, with both Portuguese and sushi menus; Bar Tolo, where the best seats in the house are on the terrace facing the sea. From Foz I walked an hour to the port of Matosinhos, stopping for a drink at Praia da Luz on a sandy stretch overlooking a cluster of rocks – a dead-ringer for an Ibizan beach bar, without the attitude. Before my first trip to Porto, I had imagined Matosinhos to be a splintery seaside village with toothless fishermen hawking sardines; it’s the exact opposite, a vision in concrete lined with high-rise

duo of seawater swimming pools cut into the rocks further up the coast. Or rather, I left them for next time. However, since Porto is a late-to-bed city, I managed to squeeze in another meal at a new restaurant that night. Cordoaria, a tiny place in a townhouse with laundry drying on the second-floor balcony, tables on the square outside and a Modern Iberian, small-plates menu, was like a microcosm of Porto. The food: a bacon-studded broad-bean salad; some sort of meaty pâté that arrived on a wooden slab; the requisite salt-cod offering, a creamy, cheesy affair that was extremely tasty and cost half what I’d pay in London.

THE RESTAURANTS AND GUESTHOUSES HERE HAVE AN IDENTITY ENTIRELY THEIR OWN, NOT ALWAYS SOMETHING THAT CAN BE SAID FOR NOUVEAU-HIP PARTS OF PARIS OR LONDON long-lived, booze-fuelled relationship with Portugal, I learned about colour-matching your port to your food and watched a peacock strut his stuff in the garden as I renewed my vows to white port, which, I have learned, is regarded as the least sophisticated shade of the tipple. Later that day, I took a tram to Foz, tiled townhouses with wrought-iron balconies to the right, the Atlantic smashing on the sand on the left, along tracks that date from 1872. Foz is an

WHERE TO STAY Rose et al Townhouse An airy, six-suite hotel with a restaurant and spa. The rooms have exposed beams and claw-foot bathtubs. Rua do Rosário 233 (+351 916 000081; www. rosaetal.pt). Doubles from about £95 Miss’opo This buzzy guesthouse has two- and three-room studios with bare-bulb lighting, polished-concrete floors and mid-century furniture. Rua de Trás 49 (+351 912 725338; www.missopo.com). Studios from about £60 Favorita A townhouse conversion with fresh, white rooms, a restaurant and a garden where you can have breakfast. Rua Miguel Bombarda 267 (+351 22 013 4157; www. pensaofavorita.pt). Doubles from about £55 The White Box House An immaculate guesthouse with a pared-back look enlivened by azulejo tiles and vintage sofas. Rua de Santa Catarina 575 (+351 91 100 8585; www.the-white-box.pt). Doubles from about £50 The Yeatman Hotel A slick hotel across the Douro River. All 82 rooms have balconies with views of the old town and there’s a spa offering vinotherapy. Rua do Choupelo, Vila Nova de Gaia (+351 22 013 3100; www.theyeatman-hotel.com). Doubles from about £260

apartment blocks and a wide promenade. It might not have Instagramable looks, but this is certainly the place for seafood. I sat on the terrace at Proa restaurant studying an entire page of gambas on the menu before ordering a vast dish of assorted crustaceans swimming in bisque. I was enjoying the vinho verde and my sticky, sauce-stained fingers so much I never made it to the last stop on my itinerary, local architect Alvaro Siza’s famous Piscinas das Marés, a

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK Book Menus arrive tucked into novels in this cosy former bookshop which serves perfectly presented comfort food: prawns and polenta; pork cheeks in a red-wine sauce. Rua do Aviz 10 (+351 917 953387). About £50 for two Traça A great spot for lunch, with authentic, affordable Portuguese food and attractive, nouveau-Porto decor. Largo São Domingos 88 (+351 22 208 1065; www.restaurantetraca. com). Set lunch about £15 for two Cordoaria Grab an outside table at this place doing creative things with salt cod and other local goodies. Campo Mártires da Pátria 39 (+351 22 201 0904; www. cordoaria.pt). About £30 for two Café Candelabro This good-looking, dimly lit café/bookshop/bar attracts a hip crowd in their thirties for evening drinks. Rua da Conceição 3 (cafecandelabro.blogspot.co.uk) Casa de Ló Head through the cake shop, grab a drink at the bar and find a pew in the courtyard at the back of this bar with a DJ. Travessa de Cedofeita 20 Praia da Luz A Balearic-style beach bar with great drinks. Avenida do Brasil, Foz (+351 22 617 3234; www.praiadaluz.pt)

My company for the evening was a noisy gaggle of twentysomething women dressed in peasant blouses and skinny jeans, ordering bottle after bottle, and a few eyes-only-for-each-other couples. As I plotted my next visit, and wondered how on earth I was going to fit my bounty of art, crafts and alcohol into my luggage, I remembered something a journalist I’d met at Miss’opo had said to me: ‘There’s an honesty and nobility to Porto. It hides its austerity well.’

WHERE TO SHOP A Vida Portuguesa A thoughtful collection of Portuguese crafts, including beautifully packaged soaps, blankets, notebooks and ceramics. Rua Galeria de Paris 20 (+351 22 202 2105; www.avidaportuguesa.com) Lobo Taste Paulo Lobo’s colourful boutique sells striped rugs, papier-mâché figures, hats, bags and retro shades. Largo de São Domingos 20 (+351 22 201 7102) Casa Almada This shop is responsible for the mid-century furniture in many of Porto’s hot hotels and restaurants. Rua do Almada 544 (+351 22 201 0089; www.casaalmada.com) O! Galeria Zany caricatures, reimagined superheroes and risqué slogans line the walls here. It’s like Shoreditch, but a fraction of the price. Rua de Miguel Bombarda 61 (+351 934 700820; www.ogaleria.com) Muuda A concept store selling fashion and jewellery by local designers, artisanal foods and a café-gallery area. Rua do Rosário 294 (+351 22 201 1833; www.muuda.com) Mercearia das Flores The place to stock up on olive oil, sardines in retro packaging and Douro wines. Rua das Flores 110 (+351 22 208 3232; www.merceariadasflores.com)

A TRAVELLER’S TALES

AROUND THE WORLD WITH

CHRISSIE HYNDE

PHOTOGRAPH: DEAN CHALKLEY

Born in Akron, Ohio, the singer-songwriter made a beeline for London in the 1970s to hang out with punks, then toured the globe with the Pretenders Where have you just come back from? Stockholm. I met a Swedish guy and thought we could do some writing together, and I liked what we were doing, so I just kept going back. Being there in different seasons was kind of awesome, just walking around the old town on my own with all the water and the boats, surrounded by castles. It’s a lonely pursuit, but in a city like Stockholm I love it. Where in the world have you felt happiest? In England, I suppose. I grew up on English music and it’s where I’ve spent most of my time. I still love London. The London I fell in love with probably doesn’t exist any more, but what are you gonna do? When I see a 1960s film – Alfie, say, or Blow-Up – I shed a little tear, because I loved that whole Swinging Sixties thing. But London has all the things I like – cemeteries to wander around, cathedrals to sit in, beautiful parks – and it’s an interesting place. Name somewhere that most lived up to the hype Brazil. I went there a couple of times to do festivals and I was really smitten with it, so I stayed on and travelled around. I tried to stay longer, but I kept being dragged back to do some work. And a place that least lived up to the hype Well, that’s a matter of taste. Some people love LA, but I don’t quite get it – the lack of public transport, the feeling of isolation. But that’s everyone’s beef with LA, it’s not unique to me. Which is your road most travelled? The Marylebone Road, which is only nice in the middle of the night. Describe your favourite view From Primrose Hill, overlooking London, and also some of the views from Muswell Hill. I’m pretty much a resolute North Londoner. I started in Clapham, but not by choice; it was just where I landed. What do you pack first? A copy of the Bhagavad Gita, which is considered the jewel in the crown of Ayurvedic literature. It’s just a good book to have on hand; you can read a

passage of it every morning and it’s quite illuminating. It’s something I’d never like to leave home without – well, that and my American Express card. Describe a memory from a childhood holiday We didn’t really do holidays in my family, but there’s one I remember. We drove to the Pocono Mountains in Pennsylvania from Ohio. I was about three, and my dad had me on a bike and I got my foot caught in the spokes. We never went on another holiday after that – maybe that’s why. Tell us about a great little place you know The rose garden in Regent’s Park. If you’re there right when the flowers are about to take off, it’s a real spectacle. But

‘THERE’S A VERY UNPLEASANT WAY OF SAYING SHUT UP IN FRENCH, WHICH I USED RECENTLY AND WAS ASHAMED’ autumn is always great, too. There’s the exhilarating anticipation that everything is shutting down. Which is the smartest hotel you’ve ever stayed in? I’ve stayed in quite a few, and the St Regis New York is amazing. I like old hotels, and I like them to be calm. I don’t like loud music in the foyer or at breakfast. The Carlyle is very old-school New York. One of the bell-hops snuck me in to see Woody Allen playing jazz, which was cool. On the other hand, years ago I stayed at a place called The Iroquois, which back then had cockroaches. It was my first time in New York, and I walked in and saw Iggy Pop leaning against a wall. That’s still one of the stand-out moments of my life. ‘I lost my heart in…’ Brasília. I was standing in a little structure designed by Oscar Niemeyer and that’s when I fell in love with Brazil. It was all down to the architect.

Which foreign phrase do you use most often? When you travel a lot, you tend to pick up not-very-nice phrases. There’s a very unpleasant way of saying shut up in French, which I used recently. I was at a Kate Bush gig, and there were some French people behind me and they were talking through all the quiet moments. I’m ashamed of it now, but they wouldn’t stop talking! If we had been watching ZZ Top, then yeah, but we weren’t. By the way, that gig was amazing, like smoking a kilo of weed and going through a wormhole into Planet Kate – bonkers. What’s your guilty pleasure? I’m not trying to be a spoilsport, but I don’t really feature guilt. It’s not like I’m sniffing glue out of a bag in São Paulo, now that would be a guilty pleasure. Maybe dunking a buttered baguette in a pot of coffee in France? But I don’t actually feel guilty about it… What would you most like to find in your minibar? Chocolate – that’s a no-brainer, come on! Chocolate and crisps is a recipe for a great night in. Black-pepper Kettle Chips – I’m going to go out and get a family pack right now. What is your most regrettable holiday souvenir? I’ll always come back with something, but I don’t regret any of it. Who doesn’t want to look at a towel that says Costa Rica for the rest of their lives? Nominate your eighth wonder of the world Let’s say Trellick Tower in London. It’s a listed building now, but it’s actually pretty shit. That’s modern architecture for you. How do you relax? I’m in a rock band, I’m always travelling, so I like to think I’m on holiday all the time. So I relax by doing the same thing every day. Have a read, drink some tea or coffee, walk in the park, eat crisps… It’s pretty great. Chrissie Hynde was talking to Francesca Babb. Her new single ‘Adding the Blue’ is released on 17 November December 2014 Condé Nast Traveller 137

IN BRITAIN

Clockwise from above: Rose Cottage on the Ardtornish Estate; blackberries; servants’ bells at Ardtornish House; heather. Opposite, Loch Linnhe


OUR SERIES OF INSIDER GUIDES CONTINUES WITH...

ARDTORNISH

Justin Cartwright learnt to fish on the Avon, but it’s the untamed rivers and sea lochs of this rare, family-run estate in the western Highlands that have him hooked – along with its growing reputation for lyrical Scottish cooking. Photographs by Oliver Pilcher

IN BRITAIN

T

ake the Caledonian Sleeper from Euston to Fort William and you find yourself blinking like a mole as you leave the train in the morning. You have left behind a crowded, noisy city and arrived by magic in a world of endless silvery lochs and deep green forests and isolated farms and glimpses of the islands that extend protectively in a crescent around West Scotland. Many of these islands are sparsely populated but they bear evidence of 1,500 years and more of conquest and settlement by Irish, Vikings and Scots; Iona, 60 miles south-west, is the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland and the Book of Kells, housed in Trinity College Dublin, was believed to have been written and illuminated on Iona in the ninth century. The thing that struck me the first time I came here was the silence. In fact it was not really silence, but the absence of the never-ending noise, the rumbles of trains deep under the city and the roaring of relentless traffic, which reminded me of the natural world we have surrendered. Six miles south of Fort William I took the Corran Ferry across Loch Linnhe to the Morvern Peninsula. It is a very short ride, but there is nothing quite as exhilarating as a ferry trip and the confirmation that you have left London far behind for another, different world. It is the otherness which is so seductive. From Ardgour on the other side of the water I followed a single-track road through astonishingly beautiful valleys, with lonely farmhouses and views of the Hebridean mountains beyond. A few miles before the very small town of Lochaline, I turned off towards Ardtornish, once the home of the first Lord of the Isles, Somerled, who took control of the islands and Morvern Peninsula in the mid 12th century. The ruins of Somerled’s castle still stand, overlooking the narrow Sound of Mull, commanding the seaway against the Vikings. I saw again why so many people have surrendered to the infinite space and the Celtic myth in this shimmering twilight of the gods. The only other time I have seen this light was inside the Arctic Circle in Sweden. The Hebrides have a kind of mystical and numinous quality, and the Vikings, who once occupied the Hebrides, must have felt right at home. It was also pretty obvious 140 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

why for centuries the Lords of the Isles, Viking-Celtic in origin, felt secure and untouchable across the water, where they had become the third-biggest kingdom in Britain. They were only brought down when they tried to gain a foothold on the mainland in the 15th century. The Ardtornish estate is big even by Scottish standards, 35,000 acres in all. It spreads out around Loch Aline, a huge, wooded, U-shaped bay, a natural haven. At the head of the loch stands the tower of Kinlochaline Castle, rising theatrically, sienna-coloured, above the trees. Hugh Raven, his wife Jane and their two children left Notting Hill in 1999 to live on the family estate; they renovated the solid stone tower and made it their home. The children commuted daily by ferry

to school on Mull. If the weather was too wild for the ferry, they were billeted with their ‘storm buddies’. Hugh, with a family committee, took over responsibility for the estate when his brother died of cancer in 2005. He is, as his brother was, passionate about conservation; he has spent the last few years creating a hydro-electric system high in the hills to provide low-carbon, renewable energy. And before he died, his brother planted an indigenous forest of 500 acres, which will be his legacy. Not far from Lochaline Castle, at the head of the loch, is the enormous Ardtornish House, part late-Victorian pile, part château; it is surrounded by a famous garden, all 20 acres of it. Over the years one gardener has replaced 19,

Clockwise from opposite left: salmon fishing on the Aline; roast grouse at The Whitehouse Restaurant; sitting room in Ardtornish House; owners Hugh Raven and Jane Stuart-Smith out fishing; smoked-mackerel terrine at The Whitehouse; wild flowers; Loch Aline

but it is still beautiful, and often visited by garden enthusiasts. The estate’s coastline is 20 miles long. It is a sporting estate, with brown trout, salmon and sea trout. There are sea lochs and freshwater lochs, stitched together in a delicate skein of water and land. Yachts moor on Loch Aline and canoeists paddle along the coast; groups of walkers stride out over the hills. Wherever you go, high in the hills or down at sea level, there are streams and lochs. The water in the streams is the colour of peaty whisky. In a few days I fished on rivers and lochs, both sea and freshwater, from dinghies and from land, and caught only a few small but feisty brown trout. But the sheer pleasure of fishing these rivers and lochs is intense. Eagles fly overhead, deer roam

warily and otters bustle about. I watched a pair of them for half an hour; there is something very content about them: they give the unmistakable impression of being happy with their lot. The River Aline runs strongly through almost untouched woods and meadows; it is a vision of another, lost time. Fishing in a place this beautiful is an almost transcendent experience. There was no sign of salmon during my visit, but I’m not that keen on salmon fishing, because you simply cast blindly into a likely pool and hope for the best. There is a lot more art in trout fishing. Anyway, salmon, as I discovered, are sensitive to water levels and temperatures before they make their dash upriver; last year more than 20 had been caught on the river at this time. A ghillie told me

that they would probably run again in about a month. I fished downstream all the way to an ancient stone bridge, almost exactly below Hugh and Jane’s tower; here the water tumbles into the sea loch below. The junction between sea and fresh water is where you find sea trout, which are really only brown trout that have changed their habits, adapting improbably to seawater. The change of lifestyle is extraordinary, but it is true that a sea trout is far tastier than a regular, stay-athome trout. Ardtornish is unusual in having salmon, brown trout and sea trout all on one estate. Compared to the manicured chalk streams of southern England – where I learned to fish – this is a wild, wild place. Also, compared with the Test or the

IN BRITAIN

Clockwise from top left: pudding menu at The Whitehouse Restaurant, and roast loin of Morvern stag with lochside brambles; bedroom at the Rose Cottage; clotted-cream conde and porter sorbet


Kennet, a day’s fishing here is a bargain. On my first day we had a barbecue up on one of the high lochs on a small and pristine beach. Above us was a bothy – an old shepherds’ hut – available to walkers through the Mountain Bothies Association, to spend the night or to shelter from the rain. There seems to me to be something appealing in this arrangement, something communal. In the middle of this loch, Loch Tearnait, is a crannog, a prehistoric man-made island. The underwater causeway is visible. Crannogs exist all over Ireland and the western Scottish islands. They were usually surrounded by a palisade, suggesting vividly the fears and dangers of prehistoric life. One of the inescapable facts about holidaying in Scotland is that homemade soup and white baps with cheese are still widely believed to be a meal. But in 2003 Jane Stuart-Smith (Hugh’s wife) and her friend Sarah Jones started a restaurant in Lochaline close to the water, and named it The Whitehouse. At that time it was difficult to source produce; most of the shellfish was sent straight to Spain and France and it was almost impossible to get hold of any for local consumption, but Jane and Sarah persevered and Ardtornish now supplies the restaurant with beef, lamb and venison. It is also part of the mission to use local materials, so local fishermen have been enlisted and small producers on Mull and at Lochaber are favoured. Perhaps most importantly they have employed two talented chefs, Mike Burgoyne and Lee Myers, who have very impressive experience in London. Head chef Burgoyne has worked at The Savoy, Claridge’s, Café Royal and Chez Nico. During the long winter they migrate to warmer places. It seems like a perfect arrangement. An outstanding restaurant has emerged. It is a surprise to find a menu this good in a village on the edge of the known world, serving the finest plaice, beef, scallops, bouillabaisse, langoustines and wonderful puddings. Now yachtsmen from many countries tie up outside and the restaurant has won all sorts of accolades – Best Restaurant in the Highlands and Islands 2012, and runner up as best restaurant in Scotland in the Observer Food Awards. I made a note of what we ate one night: ravioli pillows with a lobster sauce; whole, spankingly fresh plaice; wild salmon; ‘beastie’ (which turned out to be beef), and a sensational panna cotta. There were also sorbets of

blackcurrants and blaeberries, known south of the border as bilberries. There are six cottages on the estate to rent, as well as apartments in Ardtornish House itself, which is pretty grand. It gives a wonderful sense of the pre-World War II country house, with its servants’ bells, library, billiard table and vast drawing room. It was remodelled after only 30 years, and the tall, Italianate tower above the house on a ledge of rock is all that remains of the original building. My two favourite cottages are Rose Cottage, with a view of the river through trees, and the Boathouse, which looks directly out onto Loch Aline; in fact it is virtually on the strand. The cottages vary but all are well equipped and comfortable. The Bunkhouse sleeps eight, and would be a great and relatively inexpensive lodging for a fishing party or a group of friends. I did a lot of walking. The best walk was down from Loch Tearnait with what looked like the whole of the Hebrides laid out below. I also walked up to the ruined Ardtornish Castle, built by Lords of the Isles in the 12th century. Its position on a promontory guarding access to the islands beyond is vividly evocative. Ruined castles seem to suggest that all endeavour comes to nothing. Not far away in a sheltered cove, Hugh’s sister, Sarah Raven, has a lovely cottage. It has possibly the best site on the whole estate. Ardtornish is an enchanting place; I have fallen for the Celtic myths, the wonderful light and the endlessly unrolling landscapes, and now I have an urge to come back to explore as many of the islands of Hebrides as I can. I have the feeling that this vast expanse of islands and turbulent seas is an alternative world, an innocent, half-forgotten place, blessed by its remoteness and silence. There are different kinds of silence: this is the silence of prehistory. And, of course, there are said to be salmon in the rivers. Ardtornish Estate, Argyll (+44 1967 421288; www.ardtornish.co.uk). Cottages from £340 per week; apartments from £345. Bank fishing from £5 per day; river fishing from £10. The Whitehouse Restaurant, Lochaline (+44 1967 421777; www.thewhitehouserestaurant.co.uk). Dinner about £40 for two without wine

WHAT TO SEE NEARBY Mull was our first excursion, to Tobermory, where we had lunch overlooking the harbour. The ferry crosses over from Lochaline frequently. It is also possible to go straight from Oban. It was a wonderful

day, and the fishermen were busy with their boats. The harbour was almost impossibly perfect, with nets drying and boats moving gently about. Tobermory is famous for its multi-coloured houses; in the converted public loo on the quayside, there is now the Isle of Mull Ice Cream Parlour, producing great flavours (even whisky marmalade) made with local milk. It is also well worth going to see the spectacular Duart Castle, the ancestral home of the Clan Maclean. The Scottish Baronial-style Glengorm Castle has a fine café and shop, a wonderful position overlooking the sea and a sheltered cove for swimming. The castle is a gem and you can stay there, too. For those who want to scuba dive, contact the Lochaline Dive Centre (www.lochalinedivecentre.co.uk)

PILGRIMAGE TO IONA Just off the west coast of Mull, the island is touristy but an absolute must. Iona Abbey is a powerful reminder of the spread of Christianity, which reached Iona long before the mainland. It is a place of pilgrimage, commemorating the foundation of the abbey by St Columba, who arrived here from Ireland in 563. During a turbulent history it was taken by the Vikings twice and by the King of Norway. Many Scottish kings are buried here.

WHERE TO SWIM WHEN IT’S WARMER I love sea and freshwater swimming, but can’t claim to have swum in many places in Scotland. This list is compiled with help from Hugh Raven: Loch Arienas is a large loch on Ardtornish with perfect golden beaches. The best one is where the River Aline flows out of the loch. The water is surprisingly warm in summer. Another favourite is Junction Pool on the Aline, at low water. Sanna Bay on Ardnamurchan is possibly one of the most magnificent beaches in Scotland, huge, with white shell sand. It’s at the most western point of Britain, about two hours away, so best to make a day of it. Calgary on Mull is another lovely beach, and easily reached by taking the ferry.

GETTING TO ARDTORNISH The ScotRail Caledonian Sleeper (www.scotrail.co.uk/caledonian) departs from Euston at 9.16pm Monday-Friday and 8.28pm Sunday, arriving in Fort William at 9.55am. The Caledonian MacBrayne (www.calmac.co.uk) network of ferries can carry you and your car all over the Hebrides.

Sanctuary

in the sky. Stroll into the lounge of our A380 and instantly you’ll notice

NOW FLYING DAILY BETWEEN LONDON AND DOHA

the lush smell of fresh-cut roses gracing our designer bar. Enjoy a signature beverage prepared by our trained mixologist while relaxing on our European leather settees. We believe the secret to unforgettable flying is simple. It’s all in the detail. qatarairways.com

Our A380. It’s all in the detail.

World’s 5-star airline.

PRODUCED BY

PROMOTIONS

Qatar W O R D S : T I M G LY N N E - J O N E S

Qatar T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

INTRODUCTION

pearl of the gulf W I T H T H E E Y E S O F T H E W O R L D S O O N T O FA L L O N T H I S S O V E R E I G N S TAT E D U R I N G T H E R U N - U P T O T H E I R H O S T I N G O F T H E F O O T B A L L W O R L D C U P, Q ATA R I S A P L A C E D E T E R M I N E D T H AT P R O G R E S S W I L L N O T O V E R W H E L M I T S H I S T O R Y, S AY S T I M G LY N N E - J O N E S

Q

atar is a country in transition. Once a smattering of small pearl fishing communities and trading posts, the discovery of oil in the 1940s transformed it into what is currently, per capita, the world’s richest state. Now the next transitional phase is under way: from an economy dependent on hydrocarbons to one built on knowledge.

The challenge for Qatar is to achieve this rapid transformation while also preserving its cultural heritage, and to be in the capital, Doha, today is to witness this delicate synergy taking shape before your eyes. For each ultramodern construction, such as the brand new Hamad International Airport, which connects passengers with Europe’s major hubs in six or seven hours, there is a new cultural project opening up too. Add to that the warm blue waters of the Gulf and sunshine all year round, and you have a destination that is booming in popularity among businesses, families and discerning travellers in search of a new and exciting adventure.

5DIÁHV6LQJDSRUHVLQFH

KATARA HOSPITALITY, PRESERVING ICONIC TREASURES There is much more to being a world-class hospitality organisation than just owning, managing or developing hotels. At Katara Hospitality, our appreciation for the past powers our aspirations for the future. Decades of experience,

an innovative mindset and meticulous attention to detail enable us to craft unique masterpieces that set new standards for others to follow. With us, it is all about our boundless passion for creating legendary hospitality, building on our heritage.

Katara Hospitality Building Marina District, Lusail City, PO Box 2977 Doha, Qatar T +974 4423 7777 F +974 4423 7860 [email protected] www.katarahospitality.com


C U LT U R E

coffee and a shisha, and relax to the sound of an oud (traditional stringed instrument) player as you take your pick from one of the many restaurants that line the perimeter.

essence of arabia AMID THE RAPID GROWTH OF DOHA AS A MODERN, S O P H I S T I C AT E D B U S I N E S S C E N T R E , Q ATA R I S W O R K I N G

But as well as looking inwards to preserve its own traditions, Qatar is taking a global view of culture, from the modern architecture of buildings like IM Pei’s MIA to the performances of the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra, who play regularly at the Opera House

H A R D T O E N S U R E T H AT P R O G R E S S D O E S N O T C O M E AT T H E P R I C E O F C U LT U R A L H E R I TA G E

the Islamic world. Qatar is determined to preserve its own Arabic culture, and tradition is alive wherever you look, most obviously in the dress. The pristine white thawb for men and the black abaya and hijab for women are a given, and an essential facet of Qatar’s exotic charm.

S

troll along the Doha Corniche at dawn, away from the glass towers of West Bay past the old dhow harbour, and you begin to see evidence of an ideal that is shaping the future of Qatar: one that embraces modernity while remaining rooted in the past. Here you will find the tall spiral beacon of the Fanar (meaning lighthouse) Islamic Cultural Centre and the vaulted stone walls of Souq Waqif, and jutting out into the water, the white, shadow-catching structure of the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA), an ultra-cool spectacular of a building housing a brilliant collection of hand-crafted wonders from across

English may be the common language but Arabic is the first language and the call of the muezzin is a regular atmospheric reminder that you are immersed in Arabia and the devout culture of Islam. If you want to visit

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ABANDONED DHOW, DOHA; TRADITIONAL CARPETS AT SOUQ WAQIF; MINARET OF THE FANAR ISLAMIC CULTURAL CENTRE; KATARA CULTURAL VILLAGE; WHITE PIGEONS AT KATARA

a mosque or learn Arabic, Fanar is the place to go. Souq Waqif is a faithful reconstruction of a traditional souk, complete with narrow passages, the aroma of spices and an array of tiny shops, some barely bigger than a cupboard. You can buy just about anything here, from hijabs to horses, or you can just browse, enjoy a

DID YOU

K NOW

a couple of miles up the coast at Katara cultural village. After the bustle of the souk, Katara is a haven of tranquility, complete with its own art gallery, restaurants and even an amphitheatre. You can easily while away an afternoon, and when the sun goes down you can mingle with the locals, who come out in traditional dress, to promenade along the seafront.

In September 2014, Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra became the first Middle East based ensemble to perform at the BBC Proms

dune-bashing In the morning, the rising sun casts artistic shadows on the dunes – your next destination. Unless you’re adept on a camel, a four-wheel-drive is the only way to travel in the desert. The Qataris have got it down to a fine art. At Sealine Beach Resort, about 45 miles south of Doha, the road runs out and the desert takes over. This is dune-bashing territory – a four-wheel-drive adrenalin rush up and down towering hills of sand. You can ski and board down the dunes too – just don’t do it while the dune-bashers are about.

the inland sea

more than just

deserts

Qatar is a country on the move. Join us on an exciting journey from the exotic beauty of the desert to the indulgent luxury of 21st century hospitality

Clockwise from above: Museum of Islamic Art, Doha; Mohammed Bin Abdulwahab Mosque; Souq Waqif; Beautiful falcon; Spice market; The Doha skyline at night; Thoroughbred racehorses: Falconry is a passion

dawn in the desert E Lawrence once described the creed of the desert as ‘inexpressible in words, and indeed in thought’. You have to see the desert for yourself to fully grasp its effect on mankind. And in Qatar, you have the perfect opportunity. Take an overnight safari into this majestic wilderness, snack on dates and drink sweet karak tea beneath the stars and feel the warmth rise out of the sand and embrace you like a blanket.

T

Qatar is one of only two countries in the world where the sand dunes meet the sea – the other being Namibia. In the south-east corner of the country the waters of the Gulf have crept beyond the coast to form an inland sea. It’s a spectacular and unexpected sight and the perfect place to stop for lunch before heading back to Doha for a spot of R&R.

spas and sun worship Doha has a fine selection of world-class hotels, many of the them positioned right on the sea front, with stunning views over the bay, and their own beaches where you can soak up the sun all year round. The safari will drop you off after your expedition among the dunes and you can relax in the luxury spa, head to the beach, or while away an hour or two by the pool. There’ll be time to take a ride along the Corniche, past groups of people playing football on the grass of Al Bidda Park or people fishing from the sea wall. Or you can just enjoy the late afternoon sunshine and the glorious view across the bay, the palm trees in the foreground offsetting the towering glass and steel skyline in the distance.

a cultural feast A stroll through the narrow passageways of Souq Waqif will give you the full flavour of the Middle

T RAVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE

East, and an hour perusing the exhibits of the Museum of Islamic Art will fill you with wonder at the expert craftsmanship on display, dating back more than a thousand years. One hour is not enough, though, to see all this superb museum has to offer; you will have to make plans to come again. But before you leave, be sure to take a walk outside on the terrace, which affords one of the best views in all of Doha.

dinner at sea Back at the hotel, you can choose from a range of dining options. Doha has attracted a number of culinary stars, bringing some of the best cooking in the world to the hotel scene, and there are plenty of excellent options besides, catering for all tastes. But just for a change, why not have dinner aboard a traditional dhow as it takes you on a romantic cruise around the bay? It’s a spectacular and atmospheric end to a day that sums up life in Qatar: one of contrasts, of discovery and adventure, and ultimately an experience you will never forget. And tomorrow... we go shopping!

READER OFFER Explore cultural Qatar from just £1,325pp. This includes direct flights with Qatar Airways, three nights at Sharq Village & Spa, private luxury transfers, full day private tour of Doha including the Museum of Islamic Art, Katara Cultural Village and Souq Waqif. The Sharq Village & Spa is designed to reflect the close-knit communities of fishermen, pearl divers and merchants that shaped Qatar’s vibrant history, and is a superbly recreated version of an ancient Qatari village. Inspired by traditional Qatari culture and architecture, the hotel offers a Doha Beach hotel of exceptional grace and splendour with 300 metres of private coastline that blends the modern world and with local traditions in a breath-taking setting. For more information and to book, call 0845 485 1206 or visit abercrombiekent.co.uk/qatar


HISTORY & ART

pursuit of beauty F R O M T H E I R P E A R L - D I V I N G PA S T T O T H E I R PA S S I O N F O R C O N T E M P O R A R Y A R T, Q ATA R I S H AV E A LWAY S H A D A N E Y E F O R T H E E L E G A N T

T

he history of Qatar is very immersed in the sea. The bulky dhows that lurch around West Bay carrying parties were originally designed for spending weeks at sea as a floating base for pearl divers and fishermen.

The pearls inevitably attracted European merchants and Qatar became a strategic trading post, lying conveniently between India and key points on the Spice Route. This seafaring past can be seen in the old outlying towns of Al Wakra and Al Khor, to the south and north of Doha respectively, but nowhere is it more starkly in evidence than Al Zubarah, the ruined settlement in the northwest of Qatar. Al Zubarah’s iconic landmark is a classic turreted fort, built in 1938, but by then the town of Zubarah itself had already become a relic. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage site with an ongoing archaeological dig producing new discoveries on a regular basis. Recently it unveiled a stone carving of an 18th century sailing ship – evidence of both Zubarah’s maritime past and of

DID YOU

K NOW

Qatar lay at the furthest extent of the Ottoman Empire until 1913. In 1916 it became a British protectorate, finally gaining independence as The State of Qatar in 1971

a traditional propensity for art. Modern day Qatar is a hotbed of art, both local and international. In the same afternoon you can see sculptures by Damien Hirst, an installation in the desert by Richard Serra and an exhibition by acclaimed Qatari artist Ebtisam Al Saffar. Artists and artisans across many disciplines

are beginning to thrive in the limelight gained from Qatar’s involvement in the international art scene, a movement spearheaded by Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, sister of the Emir, and recently named the most influential figure in the art world.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ARABIAN DHOWS; ZUBARAH FORT; LOCAL BASKET WEAVER ; MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART IN DOHA; RUINS OF AN OLD TRADING POST NEAR AL ZUBARAH

Sheikha Al Mayassa is the chairperson of Qatar Museums, which is responsible for the Museum of Islamic Art, along with a mouthwatering portfolio of existing and planned art venues. These include the QM Gallery Al Riwaq, which has hosted notable exhibitions by Hirst and Takashi Murakami, and Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art. The spirit of beauty and creativity runs deep in Qatar and it is rapidly become an essential destination for art lovers in search of the cutting edge.


MAIN IMAGE: THE ASPIRE ZONE SPORTS COMPLEX IN DOHA

I

n 2022, Qatar will host the FIFA World Cup, following a successful bid that ran under the slogan ‘Expect Amazing’. It’s safe to say that this, the first World Cup to be held in the Middle East, will be amazing in many ways, and will confirm to the world Qatar’s place as a venue for both watching and taking part in sport. Amid the publicity that has surrounded the World Cup, it is often forgotten that Qatar is well acquainted with hosting major sporting events. It has welcomed the European PGA Tour since 1998, the MotoGP since 2004 (including the world’s first night race in 2008), and more recently it has become an ATP Tour destination for the world’s top

SPORT

watch and do Q ATA R I S G E A R I N G U P F O R A S P O R T I N G S P E C TA C U L A R B E Y O N D C O M PA R E B U T T H E P E O P L E H E R E D O N ’ T J U S T WA N T T O S P E C TAT E ; PA R T I C I PAT I O N I S T H R I V I N G T O O

tennis players. Doha hosted the Asian Games in 2006 and in 2011 it hosted the Pan Arab Games, and, for a second time, football's Asian Cup. It also has its own marathon. This cornucopia of excellence points to a passion for sport that runs deep in Qatari culture. Every year, on the second Tuesday in February, the country stops work for National Sports Day, an idea initiated in 2012 under His Highness Sheikh Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani, now the Father Emir, who wrote the blueprint for the country’s national vision prior to his abdication in 2013. Sheikh Hamad is a big sports fan, whose love of football and cricket was kindled at Sandhurst, and he sees sport as a vital motivational force in mobilising the country’s youth to carry the torch for economic and cultural progress. Doha’s tallest landmark also happens to be The Torch, beneath which lies the Aspire Zone sports complex. Aspire comprises a football stadium, a vast indoor arena, an Olympic-size swimming pool and various other indoor venues, with an adjacent park offering trails for walking, running and


DID YOU

K NOW

One of the world’s top high jumpers, Mutaz Essa Barshim, is Qatari. He won bronze at London 2012 and gold at the 2014 World Indoor Championships

that has carried the country’s sportsmen throughout history is the Arabian horse – a pure breed from which all thoroughbreds are descended. Smaller than a thoroughbred, the Arabian is traditionally an endurance racer or a show horse. At Al Shaqab you can learn all about the breeding and even jump up in the saddle. In addition to watching all the worldclass sport that comes to Qatar, there are plenty of opportunities to participate. cycling. Aspire is also Qatar’s leading sports academy, where world class athletes have come to train and the next generation of Qatari sporting stars are now being groomed. Traditional sports like falconry and camel racing are also thriving, but none more so than equestrianism. Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club is home to a solid season of racing from November through to April, and the Al Shaqab stable has gained significant international success recently in thoroughbred racing. But the animal

The beautiful blue waters of the Gulf provide the perfect setting for all manner of watersports, from sailing to jetskiing, fishing to diving. Doha Sailing Club caters for all abilities, from absolute beginners upwards (tuition is provided), as well as offering windsurfing and kayaking around the safe but fun waters of Doha Bay. Further north in Al Khor, you can go kayaking among the mangrove swamps that provide a habitat for birds and other wildlife. On dry land you’ll find clubs for everything from cycling to racquet sports. Facilities are top class and you will find a vibrant social scene, with

fellow sport lovers from many different walks of life. A typical example is Doha Golf Club, which hosts the PGA Tour Qatar Masters. In addition to the Championship Course, it has a ninehole floodlit course, so you can play all year round, even if you want to avoid the summer sun. Or you can just gather round and chat – a popular pastime in Qatar.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THE QATAR WORLD CUP FOOTBALL STADIUM; EVENT AT THE DOHA SAILING CLUB; WATERSPORTS ARE EXTREMELY POPULAR IN QATAR; QATAR MASTERS GOLF; AN ARABIAN HORSE; FALCONS PREPARING FOR COMPETITION

ELEGANCE IN THE HEART OF HERITAGE Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels take you on a journey in time, for nestled amongst the enchanting alleys of the souq are ancient doors that take you to a new world of luxury. Premium class service meets traditional Arabian hospitality in a wonderful mix of modernity and tradition, creating an experience you won’t find anywhere but here, in the heart of Qatar.

BISMILLAH HOTEL Al Jasra |

Al Mirqab

|

Arumaila

| Al Bidda | Al Najada | Musheireb | Al Jomrok | Bismillah

Souq Waqif | PO Box 1274 | Doha | Qatar | T : +974 44336666 | F : +974 44336660 E : [email protected] | swbh.com


a witty take on a European high street, brought indoors out of the sun. There’s a funfair and an ice rink, where the kids can play while you indulge in a little retail ‘me’ time. But if you prefer to shop in more exclusive surrounds, head for the tranquility of The Gate Salaam Mall, at the entrance to the West Bay business district. Here you will find an atmosphere more akin to New Bond

S H O P P I N G & H O S P I TA L I T Y

diners and designers Q ATA R ’ S A P P E A L A S A FA M I LY D E S T I N AT I O N I S E N H A N C E D B Y I T S C H O I C E O F D I N I N G A N D S H O P P I N G L O C AT I O N S . F R O M H I G H S T R E E T T O H I G H E N D , Y O U W I L L E N J O Y E V E R YT H I N G AVA I L A B L E I N R E L A X E D , A I R - C O N D I T I O N E D C O M F O R T

places you will discover food that will keep you coming back for more. Try a Keralan sadya: an assortment of small dishes served with rice on a banana leaf and eaten with the hands; or an Egyptian injera: a similar arrangement on a spongy sourdough flatbread.

T

he confluence of cultures that is modern day Doha has brought with it food from around the world, and some of it is very good. From the hot, rustic flavour of a street-side bakery in Bin Omran to the cool refinement of JeanGeorges Vongerichten’s Market at the W Doha Hotel, or Gordon Ramsay at the St Regis, foodies can have a field day in Qatar. The long-anticipated arrival of Nobu Matsuhisa at the Four Seasons will add to the high-end offerings, while at street level you are already spoilt for choice. In the most unlikely looking

Alcohol is available in most hotel restaurants but the local preference is for spicy sweet karak tea, or Arabian coffee poured from ornate pots with long, pointy spouts, light in colour and delicately flavoured with cardamom.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARKET AT THE W DOHA HOTEL; QATARI TEAPOT; ATRIUM AT THE VILLAGGIO MALL; VENETIAN CANAL AT VILLAGGIO; LOBBY OF THE ST REGIS DOHA

The shopping options are similarly wide-ranging. Souq Waqif is popular for typical Arabic adornments and souvenirs, but Qataris and expats come together in numbers amid the high street hustle and bustle of the malls, the most notable example of which is Villaggio. With its painted sky ceiling and its Venetian-style canal – complete with gondolas – Villaggio is

DID YOU

K NOW

Street, with the brands to match, and you can browse unhurried in peace. Doha City Centre is a shopping experience featuring a range of family entertainment venues; a 14 screen cinema complex, a Fun City featuring entertainment for kids of all ages, and the highly anticipated new Ice Rink & Bowling Yard.

Souq Waqif is a 21st century reconstruction of a typical 19th century souq and is built on the site where a souq has existed for hundreds of years

Cultural Qatar from £1,325pp Direct flights with Qatar Airways, three nights at Sharq Village & Spa, private luxury transfers and a full day’s private tour of Doha including the Museum of Islamic Art, Katara Cultural Village and Souq Waqif.

abercrombiekent.co.uk/qatar 0845 485 1139

in association with

Our Christmas Offer FREE GIFT RRP £28*

12 ISSUES ONLY £29 z

SAVE 41%

z

FREE DELIVERY

z

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE

FREE ROSA ROSA HYDRATING TONER FROM BODHI & BIRCH, RRP £28* Bodhi & Birch’s Rosa Rosa Hydrating Toner offers a delicate infusion of floral waters rich in natural anti-inflammatories, including rose, orange blossom and camomile, enabling it to soothe and calm skin. Formulated without alcohol, the toner refreshes and hydrates dull and lacklustre skin, leaving it soft, supple and smooth. For further information visit: www.bodhiandbirch.com

Become a subscriber and you will automatically join the Condé Nast Traveller Members Club to receive fantastic deals and special offers every month.

TH’S THIS MON

MEMBERS CLUB

AMAZING DEALS FOR SUBSCRIBERS PARADISE BAY Enjoy 30% off the Mandarin Oriental, Bodrum, located on the waterfront of Paradise Bay with panoramic views over the Aegean Sea. Enjoy its restaurants, bars, holistic spa treatments and wellness programes in addition to two sandy beaches and extensive leisure facilities to make the perfect luxurious hideaway retreat. Quote ‘CNT Members Club Exclusive Offer’ Valid from 01.11.2014 to 31.01.2015. Subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply. **

PERFECT PRESENTS Childs Farm – the award-winning collection of 98% natural products including bath time toiletries for babies & children with sensitive or eczema-prone skin – is offering 30% off all orders and a free 100ml product with every order. Visit www.childsfarm.com and enter the discount code CONDE. All readers signing up for the Childs Farm mailing list will also receive another discount code once they have signed up. Valid from 01.11.2014 to 25.12. 2014. **

DESTINATION ISLAND Welcome to Yas Island, packed with theme parks and family attractions, Abu Dhabi’s top destination island is lapped by calm Gulf waters and basks in year-round sun. Enjoy 15% off the Crowne Plaza, moments from Yas Beach and kitted out with a fitness centre, squash court and kids club. Dine in five popular restaurants with buffets, brunches and live music. Valid from 01.11.14 to 31.01.2015. Quote Conde Nast Traveller. Subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply.**

www.cntraveller.com/subscribe/CCT12208

0844 848 5202 (REF CCT12208)

* Offer is limited to new subscribers at UK addresses until 06/12/2014. Subject to availability. Full price for a one-year subscription in the UK is £49.20. For overseas and all enquiries email [email protected] or call +44 1858 438 815. **Condé Nast Publications Ltd accepts no responsibility for any of the Members Club offers. Terms and conditions apply.

THE EXPERTS

This month’s Gadgets Family Food Books Health Advice EDITED BY STEVE KING

PHOTOGRAPH: MICHAEL KLEINWORT

WHAT YOU WANT TO EXPLORE CHINA’S ANCIENT TRADE ROUTES WHO YOU NEED TEA MASTER AND ADVENTURER JEFF FUCHS It’s impossible to pigeonhole Jeff Fuchs. Photographer, author, explorer and co-founder of Jalam Teas, Ottawa-born Fuchs has been delving into Asia’s heartlands for 14 years, meeting nomadic elders, sourcing rare teas of single-estate or even singletree origin, and retracing centuries-old Himalayan trade routes. A resident of Yunnan in south-west China since 2005, he was the first Westerner to travel the entire 5,000km length of its Ancient Tea Horse Road. In 2010, two years after the publication of his eponymous book, Fuchs was approached by tour operator WildChina to design a trip along a section of the route, which he now leads every spring and autumn. Setting off from Xishuangbanna, home to the world’s oldest tea forests, adventurers spend 10 days immersed in a dozen different ethnic cultures, picking leaves with the Akha people, meeting the descendants of the first tea cultivators in a Bulang community and bedding down in the homes of Hani villagers. Hike to the start of the caravan route, breathe in the heady scent of jasmine fields in Fujian and take part in proper ceremonies. At each stop, different locally grown varieties are paired with food: red beans or fruit with a green tea that has a gentle bite; sweet rice cakes with a potent oolong; a ripe, black pu-erh blended with chrysanthemum. The next Tea Travels with Jeff Fuchs takes place in March 2015. +44 20 7183 9164; www.wildchina.com; www.jefffuchs.com. EMMA LOVE December 2014 Condé Nast Traveller 159

THE EXPERTS... FAMILY

CHILDREN IN THE CITY

HONG KONG

With buzzing markets, urban beaches and mind-blowing food, this easy-to-explore, neon city is a high-energy hit for kids. By Adriaane Pielou

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARK PARREN TAYLOR; ANDREW ROWAT; THOMAS SANTALAB/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; IAN TROWER/AWL IMAGES

Clockwise from above: street food in Hong Kong; a sign for a foot massage; Festival Walk shopping centre in Kowloon. Opposite, the entrance to Man Mo Temple at Tai Po Market

Most museums in this culture-packed city have a dramatic story to tell and entrance fees at around 80p add to their allure. The Hong Kong Museum of History appeals to any age group with its life-size representations of Chinese tenements. The vivid account of the fall of Hong Kong to the Japanese in 1941 makes the Museum of Coastal Defence, in a harbour-front fort, an engaging experience for older children. Easiest to get to though, and arguably the best, is the atmospheric Maritime Museum at the end of the Central Pier terminals. While younger children will be awed by the example of early-Chinese boat-building (bloated water buffalo carcasses lashed together to create a raft), older ones should be as absorbed as their parents by the section devoted to the Japanese occupation.

AT OLD-FASHIONED MAXIM’S PALACE PICK DIM SUM FROM THE CLATTERING TROLLEYS THAT HAVE DISAPPEARED FROM MANY RESTAURANTS Surveying Hong Kong from The Peak is obligatory for all visitors and it’s also the best way to get your bearings. Plus, children can run around in its Mount Austin Playground. From one side, look down on the harbour and the Central district; from the other, it’s all green mountains and countless little islands dotting the South China Sea. Instead of queuing for ever for the Peak Tram, take a taxi up (about £12) and the tram back. For some reason the queues down are never as bad. Or take the bus: the No 15

double decker leaves from the terminus on Exchange Square in Central, climbing up narrow, winding Old Peak Road at alarming, child-pleasing speed.

Equipped with cafés, loos, lifeguards and shops selling buckets and spades to dig the thick, surprisingly clean sand, Hong Kong’s most popular beaches are on the south or east coast of the island. But avoid them at weekends when they’re busiest. Deep Water Bay is the closest to Central (25 minutes by bus) and home to the ®

THE EXPERTS... FAMILY ® shore-side restaurant Coco Thai, which also serves chips and lasagne. Repulse Bay is wide, with an open-air temple on the beach, and Shek O is best for families and has miniature golf and bikes to rent. The exhilarating 25-minute ferry ride from the Central Piers to Discovery Bay, on Lantau Island, is a must for sandy Tai Pak Beach. Minutes from the ferry terminal there are bullock-cart rides and a Mediterranean-feel waterfront plaza with restaurants and Dymocks bookshop.

For a bargain night under canvas, stay on Lantau’s Pui O Beach. Just pack a holdall, take the ferry from Central Pier 6, and direct the taxi driver to Lower Cheung Sha village. Rent tents and sleeping bags from Treasure Island.

Made up of more than 200 islands, Hong Kong is almost 70 per cent countryside. On the weekend retreat of Sharp Island, a boat ride from Sai Kung in the New Territories, it feels like you are in Thailand. Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden,

THE CITY’S OUTDOOR ESCALATOR AND WEB OF SKYWALKS ARE A TOTAL THRILL FOR JUNIOR ORIENTEERS a conservation area and animal rescue centre in Tai Po, with monkeys, parrots and a butterfly aviary is similarly childengrossing. Hire bikes and have lunch by the waterfront on car-less Cheung Chau, a 35-minute ferry ride from Central. And on sparsely populated Lantau, the largest island, hike through hills so empty that if it weren’t for the grazing water buffalo you could be in the Scottish Highlands.

At the end of a long day exploring, take your teenagers and sink into a row of vibrating leatherette armchairs as nimble-fingered therapists get to work on your feet. Flashing-neon foot logos alert you to reflexologists all over the city but the smart Happy Foot chain (branches on D’Aguilar St and Lyndhurst Terrace) is particularly popular with expats. Fifty minutes of completely blissful reflexology cost around £15. 162 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

Take the train to Kowloon to browse the kerosene-lamp-lit Temple Street Night Market, having your face read by a physiognomist and watching open-air Cantonese opera. Or feel your way through Dialogue in the Dark, a blackedout interactive exhibition set up to give a sense of what it feels like to be blind. Time the Star Ferry harbour crossing so that you can watch the nightly 8pm Symphony of Lights show from the water.

Squeamish eaters will squirm at the sight of snake soup and chicken’s feet, but will lap up familiar pizzas and pasta in the gigantic IFC and Pacific Place malls. Dim

Clockwise from left: a race track in Happy Valley; goldfish for sale at a market; the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong spa; models at Tam Kung Temple; Opposite from top: a junk in Victoria Harbour; a Hong Kong bus; Man Wah restaurant, which has views over the city

PHOTOGRAPH: KIKE+NANO CALVO/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; MARK HORN/GALLERY STOCK; MARK PARREN TAYLOR; ANDREW ROWAT

sum, however, is the least scary way to introduce Chinese food to meal times. At the big, noisy, old-fashioned Maxim’s Palace in City Hall children can pick ha gau (shrimp dumplings) and siu mai (pork dumplings) from the clattering school-dinner-like trolleys that have disappeared from most other restaurants. A sampan trip to the floating Jumbo restaurant at Aberdeen is fun too.

Public transport is unbelievably good: punctual, far-reaching and cheap. The grimy old double-decker trams that have been clanking along Conduit Road since 1904 are still in evidence, providing bargain sightseeing (about £1.40 a ride) through Central to the end of the line at Kennedy Town, Hong Kong’s version of Notting Hill. The MTR underground train system is quick and clean, and Octopus smart cards can be bought at any station. They can also be used on the double-decker buses that run from Central to the beaches on the south side of Hong Kong Island. Or for around £23, an Airport Express Travel Pass buys three consecutive days’ unlimited use of trains and buses, plus a return trip to the airport. Hong Kong also has the world’s longest outdoor covered escalator and a web of

skywalk systems, so acres of Central and the Mid-Levels area can be negotiated without ever descending to the street – a total thrill for junior orienteers. However, this is no place for toddlers: trying to push a buggy along the uneven pavements and steep streets is hard work, so if you take a baby, pack a sling.

At the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, adorable mini dressing gowns are laid out for children in rooms that overlook the harbour or The Peak. The sixth-floor pool

deck feels like a resort and the spa is outstanding. Sinking back onto a heated bed for a facial or anti-jetlag massage when you arrive makes for a bonding mother-daughter experience. The hotel is perfectly located too: an escalator from the lobby delivers you into the IFC mall and the Central Piers are a five-minute covered walk away. Alternatively, the Conrad Hong Kong is set higher up in Central, so you don’t even have to lift your head from the pillow to gaze at the harbour, and runs like clockwork. Nicholini’s serves delectable northern-Italian food, the outdoor pool is heated and concierge Simpson can fix anything. Pacific Place mall and an MRT station are below; next door, Hong Kong Park, with its playground and tea house, is lovely for an early-morning walk to watch elderly residents practise t’ai chi by the fish ponds. www.fourseasons.com/ hongkong; doubles from £515. www. conradhotels.com; doubles from £395

British Airways (www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Hong Kong

THE EXPERTS... HEALTH

SKI SPAS

After an exhilarating day on the slopes when every muscle is left aching and your skin has been ravished by the crisp, dry mountain air, hunker down in a peaceful haven for some renewing downtime. Ski spas are a perfect marriage: fitness and pampering in one glorious, healthy blast

BEST FOR FAMILIES KULM HOTEL, ST MORITZ, SWITZERLAND

This place isn’t one of those sleek, chic pantheons of minimalist style. Far from it. Instead, it is wonderfully cosy in a way that only family-run, family-friendly Swiss hotels can be. This is a hotel where you can take your granny, your mother and your toddler, and everyone will be happy. It’s not small (there are 173 rooms, the best overlooking the valley – but ask them to turn down the saunalevel central heating), and yet there’s something about the thick curtains and plush carpets that’s just right. It has all the trimmings: five restaurants, including classic French and an Italian pizzeria, and staff who jump at the drop of a hat but in an understated way. And, of course, there’s the skiing. With instant access to the start of the Cresta Run, plus two peaks, 350km of pistes and 180km of Nordic ski trails, the Engadine Valley offers some of the best mountain action in Switzerland. Although the hotel is old-school, the £8 million spa is set firmly in the future. A lift drops you silently down into a hidden cavern, and you enter an exquisitely modern space. The first floor is home to the reception and treatment rooms, with light wood floors and pale granite walls; one floor below, the pool sums up all that’s good about contemporary mountain architecture. One wall is made from glass and the views over the lake and snow-capped valley are stunning. Even better, there’s a small outdoor lap pool, where you can soak, steam rising, as the snow gently patters down on your head. Back inside, there’s also a saltwater grotto, Finnish 164 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

sauna and steam bath. With such natural surroundings, it’s unsurprising that the spa has taken a holistic view when it comes to treatments. The Alpine Herb Stamp Massage uses herb-filled poultices to boost circulation and loosen limbs, and the Pharmos Natur Green Luxury products in the Anti-Aging Skin Repair Facial leave skin glowing, soft and visibly less stressed. INSIDER TIP Ask for Petya Petrova, who has magic hands when it comes to facials. For a full-body revamp, sign up for a four-day detox package, which includes treatments such as a purifying salt peel with body brushing and reflexology. +41 81 836 8000; www.kulm.com. Doubles from £379 half board

BEST FOR THE EXTRAS LE GRAND BELLEVUE, GSTAAD, SWITZERLAND

At last, a cool but unflashy place to stay in Gstaad. This used to be a stuffy palace hotel until Daniel Koetser and his interior designer wife Davia bought and transformed it. Now it feels more like a country-house hotel than a turreted, turn-of-the-20th-century Swiss pile, with spacious rooms that are both stylish and pleasingly eclectic. What’s on offer is second to none: for families (a kids’

Clockwise from left: a dish of chocolate and truffles at Le 1947 restaurant in Cheval Blanc, Courchevel; ski-themed art at the hotel; Le 1947 restaurant. Opposite, from top: St Moritz, Switzerland; a seating area in Le Grand Bellevue, Gstaad; interior details at the hotel

PHOTOGRAPH: JOHANNA HUBER/SIME/4CORNERS IMAGES

SOAK IN THE OUTDOOR LAP POOL AS STEAM RISES AND SNOW GENTLY PATTERS DOWN ON YOUR HEAD club, playroom and private cinema); for skiers (on-site ski hire, personal guides); and for wellbeing. Especially for wellbeing. Le Grand Spa is so enveloping, and with so many diversions, that thoughts of skiing or shopping in Gstaad’s glitzy main drag soon disappear. The subterranean labyrinth of seven steam grottos and saunas, including a herbal steam bath, Finnish sauna, Himalayan salt room, ice grotto and Turkish bath, will keep you occupied for hours. Then there’s the superbly equipped gym, the relaxation rooms and the indoor lap pool, with a wall of cascading water and a hot tub. And at the heart of the spa is a stateof-the-art yoga studio and Pilates Allegro Reformer room, both flooded with natural daylight and overseen by highly experienced teachers who offer intense workouts and yoga retreats. Treatments draw on the idea of the rejuvenating energy of the Alps and are personalised, from yoga-based holistic massages to intensive purification and destressing rituals (try the heavenly Herbal Poultice Signature Massage). Products are by Cellcosmet and Bamford, combining the hi-tech and the organic. And just when you think you might be finally ready to pull on your ski boots, you’ll find that the hair salon is by top Zürich coiffeur Ivo Aeschlimann, so that’s the whole day gone.

INSIDER TIP Europe’s star yogis host regular retreats here. Upcoming programmes include a yoga, ski and spa break with LA-trained Jacqueline Lysycia, who is a regular instructor on the Ibiza yoga scene. +41 33 748 0000; www.bellevuegstaad.ch. Doubles from about £265

BEST FOR INDULGENCE CHEVAL BLANC, COURCHEVEL, FRANCE

Courchevel 1850 is considered the jewel of the Alps, with unparalleled skiing, access to 600km of slopes in the Trois Vallées and 165 ski lifts, meaning that no one, not even non-oligarchs, has to wait. At ski-in-skiout Cheval Blanc, where the Jardin Alpin and Bellecote slopes are on the doorstep, your boots are warmed for you and ski instructors, including a number of exworld champions, can be arranged. But skiing is not the only focus: with Krug in the minibar and a Guerlain spa, this 36-room haven is also big on relaxation. Rooms are large and each one is different, with a terrace or balcony overlooking the mountains. From the chromotherapy

hammam in the bathrooms to delicious cedar-scented candles and a turn-down service with presents (a moisturising rose-and-edelweiss lip balm one night, a bottle of arnica oil the next), everything has been thought of. The interiors, designed by Sybille de Margerie, have Alpine accents – baby highchairs covered in cowhide, chic cuckoo clocks – and modern pieces including tables by Gilles Hoang and wall hangings by Lars Zech. The real relaxation, though, happens at the sensational Cheval Blanc Spa. It has white walls, white orchids and treatments mixing anti-ageing facials (try the Abeille Royale, where each wrinkle is targeted using Youth Serum) with massages tailored for skiers and restorative therapies using Guerlain’s Orchidée Impériale line. The Blanc Impérial starts with fresh fruit and Champagne and a foot scrub, before hot and cold sensations to reoxygenate the tissues. The cold glass snowball, used on the arches of your feet, is addictive. Hands are given a paraffin-wax boost, face masks produce skin as smooth as the slopes and your body is hydrated with the Super Aqua-Body Serum. It’s visibly worth it. INSIDER TIP Dine at Le 1947, Yannick Alléno’s two-Michelin-star restaurant, where the bouillon comes with gold and the bread with truffles; at The White lunch on lobster and a glass of Dom Pérignon. +33 4 79 00 50 50; www.chevalblanc.com. Doubles from £1,260 half board CONTRIBUTORS Fiona Duncan, Alex Gorton, Mary Lussiana

THE EXPERTS... BOOKS

SHELF IMPROVEMENT By Giles Foden

THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH Ian Thomson on ‘The Gallery’ by John Horne Burns ‘One of the finest novels about World War II unfolds in shell-pocked Naples in the summer of 1944. Amid the tangled wreckage of the Allied-occupied city we meet a delusional GI who believes he is Jesus Christ, and an Italian Red Cross volunteer whose moth-eaten gentility is assailed by soldiers. The portrayal of Naples as the exuberant capital of the Italian south has never been bettered. The author, John Horne Burns, served as a US intelligence officer in Naples and the experience changed his life. Throughout, Burns reflects on his


own war-shattered nerves and the romantic vision he came to form of the city. All Neapolitan life is recorded, from the cardsharps and prostitutes round the railway station to the barefoot scugnizzi (ragamuffins) who filch from army supplies. Through it runs a documentary authenticity and a travelogue by turns lyrical and vernacular. The novel sold more than half a million copies on publication in 1947 but Burns, an alcoholic, was unable to cope with the success. Six years later, in 1956, he died at the bar of the Excelsior Hotel in Florence after the first brandy of the day. He was 37.’

TOURIST INFORMATION FOR

BASKERVILLE HALL

An ivy-covered country house in Devonshire, with crenallated towers, mounted stags’ heads, historic portraits and its own family curse. With the wilds of Dartmoor right outside, it’s just the place to clear the London smog from your lungs. Dog-lovers and pipesmokers are welcome – as are those on male-bonding weekends

WHAT TO DO Explore the moorland. It’s great for brisk walks and spotting rare butterflies, birds and escaped convicts. A picnic is also recommended, but avoid settling near the mire pits that can drown a man in seconds. STAYING THERE Sir Henry Baskerville is an affable host, though some guests have reported strange lights and melancholic howling at night. A few neolithic shelters on the moors can be booked at short notice, but are more elementary WHAT TO TAKE 1 A pound of the best shag tobacco and your old service revolver 2 A pair of good running shoes 3 Old tennis ball/slipper 4 A trusted friend to keep a diary

GENERAL ADVICE If you’re thinking about going out at night, don’t. RICK JORDAN

PHOTOGRAPH: THE KOBAL COLLECTION

So much is known and has been written about Lawrence of Arabia, and his public image so conditioned by the monumental edifice of David Lean’s film, that at first glance TE Lawrence would not seem a promising subject for a book. But in Young Lawrence: A Portrait of the Legend as a Young Man (John Murray, £20), the Arabist travel writer Anthony Sattin has struck gold. Telling the story of Lawrence’s evolution from an eccentric young Oxford undergraduate through his early years wandering in the Middle East, to his success as an academic, archaeologist and spy, Sattin somehow manages to balance a lively, novelistic approach with genuine biographical inquiry among hundreds if not thousands of sources. It helps that Sattin himself has been to many of the sites in Syria and other parts of the region that Lawrence tramped through or dug at, as unsettled and tumultuous in World War I as they are now. It’s particularly fascinating to learn about Lawrence’s own previous visit to Aqaba, the Jordanian coastal city whose capture from the desert by a small force – its guns faced out to sea – is the centrepiece of the film. Young Lawrence is a serious, but very readable book which would make a great Christmas present. Also in that category are two titles I have unaccountably overlooked, one published in 1987 and now reissued – Playing with Water: Alone on a Philippine Island, by James Hamilton-Paterson (Faber, £9.99) – and the other now out in paperback, Snake Dance: Journeys Beneath a Nuclear Sky (Vintage, £9.99), by Patrick Marnham. I have always admired Hamilton-Paterson as a novelist and Playing with Water, which describes the several sojourns he spent confronting his own solitude on an uninhabited island, spear-fishing and drinking rainwater to survive, is of the same high standard as the fiction. Marnham’s book is another sort of quest, a brilliantly executed attempt, through expeditions to the Congo (source of the uranium for the bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki), Los Alamos and Japan itself, to understand the development of nuclear weapons and what they have done to the human psyche. Finally, look out too for Joanne Parker’s Britannia Obscura: Mapping Hidden Britain (Jonathan Cape, £16.99) which, through a series of encounters with different professionals and enthusiasts (canal-boaters, cavers, leyliners, megalith hunters), uncovers the countless other maps underlying the familiar geographical outline. The lesson is that with the right lens, you can configure space differently. In a sense, that was what Lawrence did, too. His victory at Aqaba came from using the special knowledge gathered on his travels and exploiting his hard-won ability to think like an Arab: part of that involved seeing the map in a different way.

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

Calling all Londoners

pure

escapism

For barefoot luxury in the Maldivian islands, Six Senses Laamu offers the dream mix of sun and fun at a class-A retreat with unbeatable style. Turquoise Holidays has done it again unshine? Check. Culture? Yes. Activities? Plenty. Beauty? In abundance. When it comes to paradise beach holidays, Six Senses Laamu in the Maldives sets the bar high. No wonder it’s on Turquoise Holidays’ list.

Here, prepare to be waited on hand and foot by your own personal GEM – Six Senses’s version of a butler – who each possess a psychic ability to pre-empt your every whim and desire before you realise them yourself.

A shining beacon in the area, Six Senses Laamu is a hotspot for families, couples and honeymooners alike – one trip here and you’ll be hooked. Surrounded by a sun-kissed, sand-fringed coastline and azure waters, this idyllic getaway is a glorious conglomeration of offbeat charm, serious fun and dizzying beauty. As soon as you set foot on the island, the pent-up emotions of day-to-day life will melt away within minutes.

While the island may be tiny and picturesquely remote, don’t be fooled into thinking there’s nothing to do here (though no one would bat an eyelid if you did fancy lazing the day away in the sun). Everyone is given a bicycle to whizz around the resort on (honeymooners and VIPs have their initials imprinted on theirs – how’s that for attention to detail), be it to hobnob with the locals, go paddle-boarding or indulge in a sunset picnic on a secluded shore.

Check into one of the roomy over-water villas – raised on stilts just a few feet above the soothing lapping of the ocean – which have been recently redeveloped with some even having their own private plunge pools.

Ringed by unspoilt reefs, the resort has a team of super-friendly instructors who will enthusiastically take you diving in glass-clear tropical waters teeming with colourful parrotfish and elegant rays gliding amongst the coral walls. Above water, surf junkies can get an adrenaline fix at the island’s renowned Ying Yang breaking wave.

S

Foodie hangouts include the sandy-floored beachfront restaurant LEAF – perched above the pretty organic garden – or the over-water Zen, which serves fresh sushi and sashimi made from fish caught just hours before. If you suffer from a sweet tooth, don’t even attempt to bypass the hopelessly appealing ice-cream Clockwise from top: Panorama of paradise from a Laamu Water Villa; Secluded Beach Villa with pool; Laamu Water Villa with pool; Surfing the famous Ying Yang wave; World class diving at nearby Manta Point

Why not plan your holiday to Six Senses Laamu over coffee or a glass of wine at Turquoise’s beach house-inspired shop on Northcote Road in Battersea? Call 0207 147 7087 to book your appointment (open six days a week)

READER OFFER Enjoy seven nights in a Lagoon Water Villa at Six Senses Laamu from £2,599 per person including daily breakfast & dinner, domestic flights and international flights with Emirates via Dubai, saving £1,000 per person.

bar, which boasts 40 colourful flavours. Hats off to Turquoise for tracking down another sliver of heaven on earth. For more information and a bespoke quote on a holiday to Six Senses Laamu, call the Turquoise team on 01494 678 400 or email [email protected]. Or visit turquoiseholidays.co.uk

THE EXPERTS... GADGETS

GEEK GEAR

By George Duffield

How we travel is almost as important as where we travel. It can make the difference between enjoyment and nightmare, hassle and fun, repeat business or never again. So kit up and travel better, faster and lighter.

LEICA T The new Leica T camera is perhaps the first truly modern camera. It fuses an iOS-type screen into a slab of Audi-sourced aluminium to generate stunning images with an effortless interface. The Geek just wishes he was on the Leica freebie list, like Tom Stoddart and Jamie Cullum. www.leica.com; £1,250–£1,350

IPHONE 6 PLUS Allow the Geek to banish any size-anxiety that the new Apple launch might have generated. If you travel with a laptop and an iPad, then you need the bigger iPhone 6 Plus. If you only have an iPad, then you need the standardsize iPhone 6. You can thank me later. www.apple.com; from £539


BREITLING EMERGENCY NIGHT MISSION WATCH Here’s one for those occasions when simply yelling ‘Help!’ won’t get you out of a tight spot. This watch contains a dual-frequency microtransmitter to pinpoint your location and alert the emergency services. Potentially lifesaving if you find yourself stuck at the bottom of a crevasse; less useful if you’ve locked yourself out of your flat. £13,570; www.breitling.com

CHARGERITO The self-styled ‘world’s smallest phone charger’. It goes onto your keychain and can charge an iOS or USB device. As an added bonus, it has a bottle opener on it. Sweet convergence. www.chargerito.com; about £24

THE EXPERTS... FEASTING

CUMIN

EAT ME By Joanna Weinberg Hot, dusty, sweaty: cumin is a spice of the street. Wander around any food market in the Middle East or Indian subcontinent and you’ll see great heaps of it in open sacks and baskets, its tiny, slim-ridged seeds either whole or ground into a rough brown powder. Its aroma is distinctively musty, like the corner of a long-locked shoe cupboard or a forgotten wad of rupees discovered in the pocket of a rucksack. Add a pinch of cumin to a hot pan and it becomes something else entirely: lemony, a little smoky and somewhat dramatic, a catalyst that sets alight a huge variety of ingredients from lamb to carrots and squashes. And here is the, ahem, rub. While most recipes work by allowing complementary flavours to bring out the best in each other – chicken with garlic and lemon, cinnamon in an apple pie – cumin works in a different way, offsetting sweeter flavours with its warmth, allowing them to sing. In India, the spice is a quiet but constant presence among much noisier characters. In Middle Eastern cooking, it is king. The meat in a pocket of lamb shawarma will have been rubbed in it, a caramelised salad of roasted

carrots will have been dressed with it, a simple yogurt and cucumber soup transformed by it. There’s no end to the possibilities of dukkah, an Egyptian nut-and-spice mix in which cumin is the overriding flavour. You’ll see it on stalls in Cairo, in little twists of paper to eat with warm flatbread. At home, it’s a perfect nibble before dinner, with a bowl of olive oil – dip toasted pitta first into one, then the other. Add interest by sprinkling it over a simple salad of lettuce and avocado, a plate of roasted beetroot, a bowl of tzatziki or butternut soup. Finally, a Middle Eastern dissonance that brings harmony.

THIS MONTH’S RECIPE To make dukkah, take a cup of blanched hazelnuts (or almonds or pistachios or a mixture) and roast on a tray in a hot oven for five minutes. Add half a cup of sesame seeds, a tablespoon of whole coriander and half a tablespoon of cumin and return to the oven for five minutes until the nuts are just coloured and the spices are releasing their scent. Allow to cool, then whizz in a processor or bash with a pestle and mortar until you have a texture like rough sand. Add sea salt to taste and store in an airtight container.

Dukkah is a blessing. I have been roasting Campden), WoodWinters (Scotland), Dalling & Co (Hertfordshire), and grinding my own for many years, and Vinology (Warwickshire) and Vallebona (online). so I have discovered an abundance of uses Another red to handle dukkah dishes is La Barry Red 2011. for it and, most relevantly here, wines that A Bordeaux blend made by Martin Meinert in the Cape as a go well with all its versatile applications. love potion for his wife, it is very svelte, with hints of tobacco and When sprinkled on a rocket and shredded-carrot salad with milk chocolate. Great Western Wine of Bath has it for £11.75. cherry tomatoes, a potent white is required. Poderi Aldo Conterno Yapp Brothers has a dukkah red also: Domaine Richeaume Chardonnay Bussiador 2010 is one such, perhaps the most perfect Cuvée Tradition 2011 (£18.50) from Provence. It shows sandalwood, Chardonnay in Italy. The fruit tannins are rosemary and black olives. It is rich and THIS BORDEAUX BLEND classy, fulsome but never gushing. deftly interwoven with those from the French barrels the wine has been aged in, By the way, if you are, like me, partial WAS CREATED BY THE and the result is a perfumed silkiness and to BYOB restaurants, especially those of WINEMAKER AS A LOVE an ethnic persuasion that use cumin and/or nuttiness. It is a luxurious wine, costing about £55 at Philglas & Swiggot in London POTION FOR HIS WIFE. IT dukkah extensively, I highly recommend and the south, HarperWells in East IS VERY SVELTE, WITH a pair of bargains at Oddbins. Janeil 2013 Anglia and Hanging Ditch of Manchester. is a southern-French blend of HINTS OF CHOCOLATE (£7.75) With lamb or chicken in which dukkah Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc plays its aromatic part, I would also visit Italy. And drink Barolo. grapes, resulting in a most combative white wine with touches Massolino 2010 is a classic. This is to Piedmont what a château of citric gooseberry and peach. Feast Agiorgitiko 2012 (£8.50) like Haut-Brion is to the Médoc. With beautiful tannins, the comes from the Peloponnese. It is drily spicy, as if a Beaujolais length of fruit brisk yet textured, it is utterly of itself. It hints at had got mixed up with an earthy Chianti. And both these bottles so many things yet the sum of these subtle parts is quietly dazzling. are obligingly screw-capped, to my mind an essential element of It costs something over 40 quid at Noel Young (Cambridge), a BYOB wine. You feel a damn fool taking your own wine to a Valvona & Crolla (Edinburgh), Bennetts Fine Wines (Chipping restaurant and finding it’s corked, as I know from experience. 170 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK

DRINK ME By Malcolm Gluck


winning streak CN TRAVELLER READERS’ TRAVEL AWARDS RUNNER UP OVERSEAS HOTEL SPA

PARROT CAY BY COMO

Y

our (and our) love affair with COMO Hotels and Resorts continues into 2014 with two of its properties coming first and second in this year’s awards. COMO is all about handcrafted luxury combined with a life-changing approach to wellbeing. The first awardee is a perfect brand ambassador: the idyllic Turks and Caicos hideaway of Parrot Cay by COMO. An A-list hot bed and one of our all-time favourite hotels, it stands out from the

Caribbean crowd firstly for its unforgettable 1000acre private island location, complete with mile-long beach. We love its foot-in-the-sand luxury and laidback Caribbean-cool vibe. Stunning interiors get top marks throughout but the new two-bedroom beach houses (with direct access) come especially recommended. We also can’t fault the 24-hour butler service; the food is as outstanding as ever and the utterly blissful COMO Shambhala Retreat, a spa experience like no other.

CN TRAVELLER READERS’ TRAVEL AWARDS BEST DESTINATION SPA

COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE Bali’s COMO Shambhala Estate came top of this year’s ultra-competitive Destination Spa category, an amazing feat considering the competition. Set deep within the rainforest on the steep slopes of the Ayung River Gorge, the COMO Shambhala Estate has to be one of the world’s most beautiful hotels. An overriding sense of peace lays the foundation for the ultimate sanctuary: a true retreat for change. We love its holistic approach to wellbeing and you can’t help but be inspired by the range of customized

programmes and treatments run by resident experts including yoga teachers, Ayurvedic doctors, nutritionists and therapists. Combine all-spa action with the great outdoors: there’s everything from trekking through rice paddies and cycling jungle gorges to canyoning, diving and surfing. Food for thought includes melt-in-the-mouth Indonesian cuisine and the more nutritionfocused COMO Shambhala Cuisine (found at every retreat). All in all, a winning combination.

For further information visit comohotels.com

THE EXPERTS... ADVICE

Q A

Q

My body is telling me that my downhill-skiing days are behind me, or should be. But my love of the Alps remains undiminished. Can you suggest any exciting alternatives to skiing that also combine the fresh air and exercise I love, without necessarily risking life and limb?

A

The last click of release from my increasingly leadenfeeling ski boots came as a liberation. All those years of haring down the pistes – some blacks, mostly reds – and the occasional mogul field had taken their toll on my knees. I cherish those happy days but I don’t miss them, because I have discovered the joys of winter walking. It’s free, easy and incredibly energising. There is an eerie and beautiful silence as you crunch through the carpet of snow trails, across fields and into the woods, that banishes any stressful thoughts. It’s an oddly meditative experience. Only minimal equipment is required: decent boots and a couple of Nordic poles if you want to look more dedicated and serious about it; snowshoes if you plan to walk into fresh snowfields where additional grip is required. Walking is a great way to rediscover the magic of the mountains. If I had to recommend a particular area to start in, it would be Kitzbühel in the Austrian Tyrol, or the 17km circuit from Chamonix to CAROLINE METCALFE Argentière, which you can do in stages. There are lots of maps, listings and other DIRECTOR OF helpful information at www.montafon.at/en PHOTOGRAPHY and www.chamonix.com. 172 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

Q A

My husband and I recently spent a fantastic weekend in Berlin. We’re now keen to explore other parts of eastern Germany, but we don’t know where to start. Also, we’d prefer not to drive. Do you have any tips? You’re right, there’s a lot more to see in eastern Germany – and there’s no need to hire a car. Deutsche Bahn, Germany’s efficient national rail network, has got the entire country covered. The trains are comfortable and punctual, and there are bargain fares for anyone who wants to roam around. The German Rail Pass buys you unlimited train travel throughout the country, including high-speed services, on any three (non-consecutive) days from about £150 per person. If you’re just travelling in one region (Saxony, for instance) a Regional Day Ticket allows unlimited access to local trains from 9am to 3am the next day for around £15, plus around £3 for each extra traveller. So where to go? Well, for a city break I’d recommend Dresden or Leipzig. Dresden is just two hours from Berlin by train. WILLIAM COOK Leipzig is barely an hour. To see WRITER some countryside, travel to Germany’s loveliest seaside resort, Ostseebad Binz (four hours from Berlin) on the Baltic island of Rügen. You’ll see beautiful scenery en route, and the terminus is walking distance from the beach.

I’m off to take photographs of the Northern Lights. How do I prepare my camera for extreme cold? Prepare yourself first. Make sure you’ve got the right clothing to stay warm – you don’t want to have to go inside because you’re chilly. The lights appear on very clear, cold nights, often between 10pm and 3am, and they tend to get better the longer they go on: it’s a show. Have several memory cards to hand. Remove any filters or polarisers from your lens, as these can cause interference. Cameras don’t like extreme changes in temperature, so keep your kit, minus batteries, in a cool place ahead of your outing. Lithium batteries, however, must stay warm, so pop them inside your clothing before you step outside. If possible, prefocus on a far-away subject, for example a distant mountain range, before it’s dark, or zoom in on bright stars in a live-view mode – in other words, don’t trust the infinity point on your lens as necessarily sharp. Cable releases can get brittle after a long period at very cold temperatures. I keep mine tucked inside my many layers until I need to shoot. Pipe lagging on tripod legs will help stop your hands from sticking to the PHILIP LEE HARVEY exposed metal. Once you’ve got CONTRIBUTING your pictures, lie back in the snow PHOTOGRAPHER and enjoy. Hip flask optional.

We all need a net.

KEY W EST

BIG PINE KEY & THE LOWER KEYS

KE

Y

LA

RG

O

If you’re at the end of your rope, there’s no place like Key West to unwind. The pace is slower. You can be yourself. Anything goes. Come marvel at our sunsets. Bury your toes and troubles in the sand. This is Key West. Where you can do it all or just hang out. fla-keys.com/keywest 0208 686 2600

ISL

MARA

THO

N

AM

OR

AD

A

6)73687 8LIFIWXXSYVMWQZIRXYVIWEPPSZIVXLIGSYRXV] MRGPYHMRKXLI2SVXLIVR'IRXVEPERH%PIRXINS´W VIKMSRWWIZIVEPSJXLIQFIMRKMRXIVREXMSREPP] TVMÎHERHE[EVHIH

4 3 68 9 + % 0 - 7 0 3 ' %8 ) ( 3 2 0= 8 ;3 % 2 ( % , % 0 * , 3 9 6 7 %;%= * 63 1 4% 6 - 7 3 6 0 3 2 ( 3 2

; ) 0' 3 1 ) 83 4 3 68 9 + % 0 ; ) 0' 3 1 ) , 3 1 ) 7SJX[MRXIVWERHLSXERHHV]WYQQIVW%RI\GIPPIRXKISKVETLMG PSGEXMSR*VMIRHP]ERH[IPGSQMRKTISTPI[LSMRXLIQENSVMX] WTIEO JSVIMKR PERKYEKIW REQIP] )RKPMWL -RXIVREXMSREP WGLSSPW 1E\MQYQ WIGYVMX] ERH PS[ GSWX SJ PMJI 2IZIVIRHMRK W[IIT MRKWERH]FIEGLZMI[WQSYRXEMRWERHKSPHIRTPEMRW:MFVERXERH GSWQSTSPMXER GMXMIW ERH E QMPPIREV] LIVMXEKI8LIWI EVI WSQI SJ4SVXYKEP´WHMWXMRKYMWLMRKQEVOW[LMGLQEOIWMXEZIV]WTIGMEP HIWXMREXMSRJSVXLIZMWMXSVW %JXIV WTIRHMRK E QIQSVEFPI LSPMHE] MR 4SVXYKEP XLI RI\X WXIT MW XS I\XIRH XLI I\TIVM IRGIERHIRNS]IZIV]XLMRKXLI GSYRXV] LEW XS SJJIV HYVMRK XLI [LSPI ]IEV8LMW JEGX LEW XYVRIHSYXXSZIVMJ]MXWIPJERH LEW TPEGIH 4SVXYKEP MR SRI SJ XLIXSTQSWX[ERXIH[SVPH HIWXMREXMSRW JSV TYVGLEWMRK E LSYWI IMXLIV JSV TIVQERIRX VIWMHIRGI EW JSV WIGSRHEV] VIWMHIRGISVIZIRJSVMRZIWXMRK 8LIEXXVEGXMZI½WGEPGSRHMXMSRW XLIGSQTIXMXMZILSYWMRKTVMGIW [LIR GSQTEVIH XS XLI SXLIV QSWX[ERXIHHIWXMREXMSRWERH XLI IEWMRIWW XS SFXEMR E +SPH :MWE EVI WSQI SJ XLI JEGXSVW XLEXQEOI4SVXYKEPSRISJXLI FIWX HIWXMREXMSRW JSV VIWMHIR XMEPXSYVMWQ 2S[EHE]W XLIVI EVI E WIX SJ KVIEX UYEPMX] VIWSVXW WTVIEH

EPP SZIV XLI GSYRXV] [LMGL GSQFMRI HMJJIVIRX EVGLMXIG XYVEP WX]PIW [MXL E [MHI VERKI SJ WIVZMGIW XLEX EPPS[ XLIMV S[RIVW XS IRNS] QE\MQYQ GSQQSHMX] 8LI QENSVMX] SJ XLIWI ZIRXYVIW MRGPYHI LSXIPW KSPJ ½IPHW 74%W XIRRMW EGEH IQMIW KEWXVSRSQMGEP IZIRXW [MRI XEWXMRK ERH EVX KEPPIVMIW EQSRKWXSXLIVW%PPSJXLMWSRP] SRIWXITE[E]JVSQ]SYVRI[ LSQI

1 3 6 ) - 2 * 3 6 1 %8 - 3 2 ;;;0-:-2+-243689+%0'31

,-7836=%2( '90896) %GSYRXV]JYPPSJLMWXSV] ERHXVEHMXMSR[MXLE LMWXSVMGEPEVXMWXMGERH GYPXYVEPYRQEXGLEFPI LIVMXEKI

4 3 68 9 + % 0 - 7 3 2 ) 3 * 8 , ) 1 3 7 8 4 ) %' ) * 9 0 0 ' 3 9 2 8 6 - ) 7 - 2 8 , ) ;3 6 0 (%' ' 3 6 ( - 2 + 83 8 , ) ´ 7 ;3 6 0 ( 4 ) %' ) - 2 ( ) <

;-2)%2( +%7863231= *VERGIERHXLI 2IXLIVPERHWEVIXLI QEVOIXW[LMGLZEPYIXLI QSWXXLMWTVSHYGX

792%2(7)% 2IZIVIRHMRKW[IITMRK WERH]FIEGLIWMHIEPJSV REYXMGEPEGXMZMXMIW8LMW MWXLIQSWXEXXVEGXMZI TVSHYGXJSVXLI+IVQER ERH9/´WQEVOIX

- 2 4 3 68 9 + % 0 8 , ) 2 9 1 & ) 6 3 * 7 9 2 2 = , 3 9 6 7 4 ) 6 = ) % 6 6 ) %' , ) 7 - 2 %: ) 6 %+ ) - 2 8 , ) 7 3 9 8 , % 2 ( - 2 8 , ) 2 3 68 ,

Gourmet PRODUCED BY

PROMOTIONS

THE WORLD ON A PLATE

Whether you’re looking to eat like a local or revel among the world's Michelin stars, there’s never been a better time to be a gourmet traveller. From truffle hunting in bucolic Provence to Portuguese tarts in bustling Macau, Emma Ventura rounds up 20 experiences to tantalise your palate

A STAR IS BORN

The arrival of the Waldorf Astoria in Berlin last year heralded more than just a striking addition to the German capital’s skyline. Just 10 months later, the hotel’s Les Solistes by Pierre Gagnaire restaurant was awarded its first Michelin nod, and a star was born. With head chef Roel Lintermans at the stoves, the menu fuses classic French technique with the contemporary style that has seen Gagnaire gather Michelin stars since the mid-1970s. Try the saddle of rabbit with fresh walnuts and a purée of white cocoa beans, or the grand dessert course as a lavish full-stop. (waldorfastoriaberlin.com)

TURKISH DELIGHT

If you want to put one of the world’s great food markets on your bucket list, make it Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar. They’ve been hawking herbs, spices, sweets, coffee, fish, fruit and all kinds of essences here since the days of the Ottoman Empire. Known to the locals as the Egyptian Market, it’s aromatic, exciting and even a little overwhelming. Scoop up seasonings for the pantry back home or simply wander the 17thcentury alleyways and gawk at the rainbow-hued mounds of produce – whether you go for a literal or visual feast is up to you. (Rüstem Paşa Mahallesi, 34116 Istanbul)

GREEK FEAST

Where better to celebrate the culinary cross-pollination that has existed between East and West since ancient times than on the Aegean shores? Head to Halkidiki next May 8th to 17th for the Sani Gourmet Festival, when 95 chefs from

40 countries, boasting 40 Michelin stars between them, will be gathering for a celebration of the interchange of food culture between Asia and Europe. Hosted by Sani Resort – a complex of four hotels, a marina, restaurants and tavernas set on the pine-fringed Kassandra peninsula in northern Greece – the festival, this year billed Silk Road

Volume 2, is following on from the success of last year’s theme, with guests treated to lavish multi-course meals, talks and demonstrations. Expect food luminaries from Europe and beyond – China, Iran, Azerbaijan and Turkey, to name a few – plus the world-class chefs and Greek luxury supplied by Sani Resort itself. (sani-resort.com)

Gourmet T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

ENTER THE PORTUGUESE

There’s a hint of sunny Lisbon in the air, so if you haven’t already caught on to the Iberian flavour that has been infusing London this winter, don’t miss the rest of the Taste Portugal festival. Running until 11 March, the event includes Michelin-star chefs, gourmet dinners and a series of pop-ups throughout the British capital. Highlights include a street-food safari with Chiltern Firehouse’s Nuno Mendes and Portuguese celebrity chef José Avillez on December 2nd, a seafood workshop at Notting Hill Kitchen on January 20 plus a series of wine tastings and masterclasses. (tasteportugal-london.com)

MEX BEST THINGS

Mexican food has been enjoying its day in the sun for some time now, so why not head to the source. Enrique Olvera has been making waves in New York City for his spin-off eatery, Cosme, but south of the border the serene mothership Pujo is a culinary oasis in Mexico City – and still one of the world’s top restaurants. Olvera’s gastronomy takes ancient dishes and Mexico’s authentic, and sometimes bizarre, ingredients and respectfully reinvents them – ‘street snacks’ at lunch, for instance, might include baby corn with powdered chicatana ant. When you tire of the Mexico City mayhem, head south, to Hotel Escondido, a genuine barefoot beauty, where the margaritas and tortillas are the perfect way to finish a day. (pujol.com.mx; hotelescondido.com)

THAI UP

Even if you have just one night in Bangkok, make sure you secure a table at Nahm – not just the hottest table in town right now but across the region. Set in a corner of the coolly elegant Metropolitan Bangkok hotel, Sydney-born David Thompson’s restaurant is on fire after being voted Asia’s Best Restaurant at this year’s influential The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Raw-brick pillars and russet-hued woods are designed to evoke the ancient temples of Ayutthaya,

but all the worshipping here is reserved for the plate, where the salty, smoky, market-fresh flavours sing – whether in a fish curry of prawns, chicken livers, cockles and chillies or a simple hot and sour soup. Inspired equally by street food and family recipes passed down through the generations, Thompson has devoted his life to the art of Thai cooking. When you’ve devoured his magnum opus, you could do worse than laying your head in one of the hotel’s serene suites, high above the Bangkok buzz. (comohotels.com/ metropolitanbangkok)

D

rinking a glass of crisp white wine and dining on juicy prawns as you look out across the Great Barrier Reef; feasting on bush tucker treats such as mango and lemon myrtle while standing in the heart of the Daintree Rainforest; heading to an oh-sosecluded sandy cay for a picnic; eating a steak under a sea of stars on a cattle station. Or how about simply sipping the perfect cup of coffee by stunning ocean views? Food that is fabulous is even more so in fabulous settings. And Queensland is blessed with both in equal measure. Look no further than Brisbane, a young city that has grown into one of Australia’s most vibrant cultural centres and an oh-so-easy flight from Sydney on Qantas’s Domestic

Network. At its heart meanders the Brisbane River, the city’s main artery and a hive of activity, with people hopping on and off the CityCat – Brisbane’s unique public transport – as they climb the Story Bridge for a bird’s eye view of the river and cityscape. Or disembark to enjoy one of the city’s myriad riverfront bars and restaurants. Indeed, alfresco eating is a way of life in Brisbane, with outdoor options at every turn. Perhaps Eagle Street Pier on the riverfront – or Jellyfish, recently awarded ‘Australia’s Best Seafood Restaurant' at the 2013 National Savour Australia Restaurant and Catering Awards. Alfred and Constance, with its huge terrace (all the better to enjoy the omnipresent sunshine), includes four bars including the fun-loving Tiki bar,

famed for its locally sourced, ‘noseto-tail’ cooking. Or for the epitome of alfresco dining, you could pick up some steaks at the local butcher and a few cold stubbies (beers), then head to Australia’s only man-made beach on the river’s South Bank, fire up one of the public ‘barbies’ and take a dip in the pool while you wait: the ultimate in urban dining. After a late night, Brisbane’s James Street Markets are the perfect place to head for breakfast, with an array of coffee bars and restaurants. Once you’ve cleared your head, you can peruse a wealth of stalls, offering everything from fresh coffee beans and fruit to delicious cheeses and some of Queensland’s delicious oenological offerings’, Queensland produces some world-class wine in its Granite Belt, just a stone’s throw

''

Whilst in Brisbane make sure you go to Mt Coot-tha, not only does it offer great views over the city but the restaurant is great too. Kate, Travel Designer, austravel.com Clockwise from top left: Brisbane’s Story Bridge at night; Honeymooners arriving at Vlasoff Cay on the Great Barrier Reef; Enjoying the local seafood on the Gold Coast

Queensland, Australia

TO DINE FOR

Exciting, exotic, exquisite: pamper your palette with some of the most extraordinary dining experiences imaginable, in Queensland from Brisbane. For more decadent indulgence there’s the open-air Cru Bar, one of the few casual champagne bars in Brisbane. Or for refreshment of an even more Aussie kind, there’s no shortage of places to quench your thirst with Queensland’s quintessential brew – and if you head to the XXXX Ale House, you can even learn how they make the liquid amber. So that’s Brisbane at its gastro-

''

nomic best. But when it comes to extraordinary dining experiences, the whole of Queensland is your oyster. Where to begin… taste the indigenous flavours of the North in Cairns: from jack fish to sweet mangoes to lesser known lemon myrtle, there’s an abundance of new flavours here (don’t miss Cairns’ Rusty’s Markets, with its stalls overflowing with delicious fresh produce). Head to the Atherton

Thala Beach Nature Reserve in Port Douglas has a fantastic elevated restaurant looking out over the Coral Sea, great for cocktails as the sun sets and with a chef that isn't afraid to try something a bit different, it's a must do. Dave, Travel Designer, austravel.com


READER OFFER

Tablelands on a self-drive easily arranged with one of Qantas’s quality on-the-ground partners, collecting delicious local produce as you go. There's Skybury Coffee, Daintree Chocolate, Gallo cheeses, fresh fruit, sweet honey, mountains of vegetables and even mango wine from the Golden Drop Distillery for a true taste of the tropics. So rich is the region in flavours, you could spend days following a dedicated Food Trail. Learn about traditional aboriginal cooking at Tjapukai Cultural Park, or discover the delights of the Daintree Rainforest on a dreamtime walk with an aboriginal guide at Mossman Gorge Centre. Seek out the hidden gems of the Sunshine Coast Hinterland at the Eumundi markets – where you can pick up everything from homemade breads and jams

T R AV E L W I T H T H E E X P E R T S Savour a whole new side to Queensland with two of Australia’s most iconic names in travel. The leading authority on Australia, Austravel’s Travel Designers have explored Australia extensively and pride themselves on their insider knowledge and expert service, using their hidden gems and top tips to make your holiday extra special. Whether you are looking to take off on a wine-tasting tour, bite into some more unusual bush tucker, sample the freshest of fresh seafood or try to catch your own dinner in the aquamarine waters of a secluded cove, Austravel will know just the place, and tailor your itinerary to meet your most mouth-watering expectations. $QGZKDWEHWWHUZD\WRø\WR4XHHQVODQGWKDQZLWK4DQWDVÖ$XVWUDOLDÙVLFRQLF national airline. With daily afternoon and evening departures to Australia from /RQGRQ+HDWKURZRXWVWDQGLQJLQøLJKWHQWHUWDLQPHQWD1HLO3HUU\GHVLJQHG PHQXLQ)LUVW,QWHUQDWLRQDO%XVLQHVVDQG3UHPLXP(FRQRP\LQVHDWWHOHSKRQHV DQGHYHU\WKLQJIURPLQQRYDWLYHIRRWQHWUHVWVLQ(FRQRP\WRWZRPHWUH6N\EHGVLQ %XVLQHVVOLWWOHZRQGHU4DQWDVKDVZRQDSOHWKRUDRIDZDUGV7KH4DQWDV'RPHVWLF QHWZRUNRIIHUVXSWRøLJKWVDZHHNIURPERWK6\GQH\DQG0HOERXUQHWR %ULVEDQHDQGRQZDUGøLJKWVWRGHVWLQDWLRQVZLWKLQ4XHHQVODQG$GGWKH4DQWDV :DONDERXW3DVVZKHQ\RXERRN\RXU4DQWDVLQWHUQDWLRQDOWLFNHWVWRHQMR\GRPHVWLF øLJKWVDWDWWUDFWLYHSULFHVÖDQG\RXU4XHHQVODQGDGYHQWXUHLVVHUYHG

$XVWUDYHODQG4DQWDVDUH offering readers a tantalising seven-day experience designed to enable you to savour the full spectrum of gastronomic GHOLJKWVRIWKHUHJLRQ(QMR\WKH %ULVEDQH6SLFHUV%DOIRXUWKH Outrigger Little Hastings Resort LQ1RRVDWKH5DPDGD+HUYH\ %D\WKH5RVH*XPVLQWKH Atherton region (with self-drive to the Atherton Tablelands) and WKH0HUFXUH&DLUQV+DUERXUside from just £1,495pp. This special offer includes four days car hire, a Daintree Dreaming 7RXUDQGøLJKWVZLWK4DQWDV and is based on travel 0DUFK For further details and reservations, please call 0808 274 3541 or visit www.austravel. com/discover-queensland

Clockwise from this image: Beach life in Noosa; Taking in the Daintree Rainforest; Tropical flavoured ice cream in Cairns & Great Barrier Reef region: Fresh coffee in Cairns; Rusty’s Market in Cairns; Fresh seafood on Noosa Beach

''

to nuts and juices, chilli sauces to chocolate soufflés – then head to the Glasshouse Mountains to enjoy your Coca Chu on Hamilton feast to a backdrop of truly beautiful Island is a new Thai-fusion views. And just to underscore your restaurant with great views tropical surroundings, look no out over Hamilton Island and further than the range of ice-cream the Whitsundays. The food flavours on the menu at Floravilla in was absolutely delicious. Cape Tribulation; black sapote, coffee wattleseed, dragonfruit and banana, Anthony, Travel Designer, avocado, and a vanilla classic recipe austravel.com that is over 200 years old.

H

ave a soft spot for seafood? Queensland’s seafood is fresh, sweet and succulent. From scallops to spanners crabs, Barramundi fish to the famed Moreton Bay ‘bugs’ (shellfish), Queensland’s waters offer a wealth of succulent treats. How about seafood to sensational views? With the glorious beaches of the Gold Coast stretching the length of the state, take your pick. A bucket of succulent prawns washed down with cold beer (naturally), at any one of the myriad local surf clubs. A delectable dinner at Oskars, dining on the freshest


catch of the day while watching surfers hit the Burleigh Heads waves. Soaking up the breathtaking views of the Coral Sea, Mossman Ranges and Daintree National Park at Port Douglas’s On The Inlet restaurant, built out of the water of Dickson Inlet and a local institution in Port Douglas (a high accolade indeed, given the wealth of wonderful places in Port Douglas’s Macrossan Street). Or perhaps savouring the sweet, delicate flavour of the very freshest Spanner Crabs with a chilled glass of white wine at Spanner Crabs Noosa, before taking a wander to watch demonstrations and discover new flavours in the May-time Noosa Food and Wine Festival (although with its chilled out wine bars, fresh seafood and glorious

beachfront location, Noosa is a foodie heaven year round).

A

lternatively, for those wanting to really push the boat out (literally) it doesn’t get much more sensational than cruising through the 74 beautiful Whitsunday Islands, then stopping for a floating lunch to incredible views of the sparkling waters and untouched islands all around you. Except, perhaps, taking a scenic flight to the divine Whitehaven Beach and spending the day sipping cocktails on the soft silica sands. Back down to earth, One Tree Hill on Hamilton Island is hard to beat for a sundowner – rivalled only, perhaps, by the decadence of lounging in your private pool at nearby qualia resort, enjoying your arrival champagne and strawberries to more stunning sea views. And for those who prefer to banquet on the water, you can always pull up at a pontoon, work up an appetite snorkelling and diving the reef, and then dine in the ultimate ocean style. Life surely doesn’t get much better. Actually, in Queensland it does. While you’re at Moreton Bay, head to Moreton Island where you can hand-feed wild dolphins, an unmissable experience. While you are in Hervey Bay savouring the sweet Hervey Bay scallops, take time for a whale-watching boat tour to see the humpback whales (the Fraser Coast is a whalewatching mecca). Take a trip with Juan Walker at Walkabout Cultural Adventures, an indigenous guide who will take you to aboriginal cultural sites, explore the rainforest with you, and teach you how to spear crabs and fish for your own dinner. Dine beneath the canopy of the oldest rainforest in the world, the World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest, as you soak up the sights, sounds and smells of the ‘Flames of the Forest’ indigenous dining experience. Or, if you’re feeling brave, you could even climb to dinner at Skypoint’s Seventy7 Café & Bar on the 77th floor of the tallest building in Queensland – Q1, Surfer’s Paradise – which only makes those 360-degree Gold Coast and hinterland views all the more special. For more information go to cntraveller. com/promotions/queensland

F L AW L E S S S E RV I C E Pleasures of the palette reach new heights, literally, on Qantas. With øDZOHVVVHUYLFH a multi-award winning wine cellar and a premium dining menu created by Qantas consulting chef Neil Perry, in First, International Business and Premium Economy, Qantas has set a new benchmark in dining. In International Business you can enjoy an equally elegant LQøLJKWH[SHULHQFHZLWKDSUHWDNHRIIGULQNEHIRUHHQMR\LQJPRUH delicious Neil Perry Rockpool inspired dishes – think the likes of smoked salmon from renowned London smoke house H Forman accompanied by a roast beetroot salad with lemon dressing – presented on beautiful tableware. In International Business and Premium Economy you can pre-order your meal using Qantas’s 6HOHFWRQ4(DWVHUYLFHÖRULI\RXNQRZ\RXDUHJRLQJWRGLQHRQ WKHJURXQGEHIRUH\RXUøLJKWVLPSO\VHOHFWWKH 1RPHDOÖPD[LPLVH P\UHVWRSWLRQ XSWRKRXUVEHIRUH\RXø\DQGLQ,QWHUQDWLRQDO %XVLQHVVHQMR\UHIUHVKPHQWVRQGHPDQGWKURXJKRXW\RXUøLJKW And then of course there is the outstanding wine list, selected by WKH4DQWDV:LQH3DQHODQGYRWHG‘Best Overall Wine Cellar’ at the &HOODULQWKH6N\$ZDUGVIROORZHGE\‘Best Airline Wine List in the World’ IRULQWKH:RUOGRI)LQH:LQH$ZDUGV High praise indeed.


CANDY COUTURE

BALLY HIGH

Great taste takes on a whole new meaning on New York’s chic Madison Avenue with the opening of the CuRious Candy sweet store by fashion designer Cynthia Rowley. Head to the second floor of her clothing boutique on the Upper East Side, pass through the doorway with its fantastical woodland decor and you might think you’ve fallen down the rabbit hole. There’s edible cutlery, crockery and flowers, newly spun candy floss in salted caramel or black liquorice, cabinets full of party pieces, chocolate tea sets and jars brimming over with rainbow liquorice laces. Pink tiara lollipop, anyone? (curiouscandy.com)

HAPPY FOOD

Inspired by the word for ‘happiness’ in the Maldivian language of Dhivehi (and most definitely not by a certain Pharrell Williams song) Ufaa by Jereme Leung at the Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is the first authentic Chinese restaurant to open in the island nation. Leung is a pioneer of contemporary Chinese cuisine and Ufaa has been introduced across the resorts eateries to reflect his style. Tea House, Yum Cha and Mahjong provide a relaxed setting for chatty gatherings over bites such as baked pancakes stuffed with minced pork and preserved vegetables, as well

The Irish are lucky, they say, and that’s certainly true of anyone living within range of Ballymaloe House Restaurant and Hotel, Myrtle Allen’s gracious country house in County Cork that’s found fame for its honest food. The recipe here is simple things done well, sustainably and with integrity and passion – whether it’s the grouse or breads, pastries and sauces made from scratch. If you’re inspired, the nearby cookery school, run by Myrtle’s son, offers 12-week certificate, or shorter, cookery courses. (ballymaloe.ie)

as Leung’s signature handmade noodles, which run the gamut from seafood to soya bean paste. There’s hotpot on the beach, while the Chinese restaurant, on the first floor, is where Leung’s modern spin on things shines, his tasting menu marrying the likes of caviar, goose oil and avocado with more traditional ingredients such as okra, pigeon and wolfberry. Produce is sourced daily from what’s locally available – be it organic fruit and vegetables from the resort’s own garden island of Mandhoo, or lobster caught in the surrounding pristine tropical waters. It all invites guests to dive right in. (conradhotels3.hilton.com)

COMING UP TRUFFLES

Based in a 16th-century hilltop retreat a stone’s throw from Avignon, the Crillon le Brave Spring Truffle Weekends elevate foraging to new heights. The 32-room Crillon le Brave hotel is a place of spare but stunning beauty, and a fine base for truffle hunting

and wine sojourns into the heart of the Rhône Valley. Star of the show is Provence’s premier truffle expert Eric Jaumard, who leads guests through the forests in search of the prized black fungi. The weekends incorporate visits to Châteauneuf-duPape cellar doors, antique shopping and laid-back cooking lessons by head chef Jérôme Blanchet. The next English-speaking truffle-hunting and wine weekends will be held February 26th and March 5th and 12th. (crillonlebrave.com)


Clockwise from this image: Portuguese architecture; Senado Square; Andrew Wong; Pastel de nata; Macau’s skyline at night; Typical Macau cuisine

Med

STYLE

Macau is something of a hidden gem: a slice of the Mediterranean tucked away on China’s southeast coast. What’s more, the food scene is worth the trip alone contributed to putting Macau firmly on the travel map. As well as superb Portuguese and Chinese food, Macau is home to Macanese fusion food, influenced by flavours and cooking techniques from Portugal and China as well as Portugal’s trading routes (South America, India, Africa and Malaysia). Dishes are full of flavour with spices such as chilli, turmeric, cinnamon and coconut featuring heavily.

ust 40 miles from Hong Kong (or an hour by high-speed ferry), Macau makes a fascinating add-on for Far Eastern travellers with a penchant for branching out. Recently, Macau has been known as the ‘Las Vegas of the East’, but look beyond the roulette wheels and you will find a fascinating destination and a tale of two cultures. Macau was the last outpost relinquished by Portugal, only becoming a Special Administrative Region of China in 1999. Today, it retains a fascinating duality, reflected in everything from the architecture to the food.

J

There’s a tangible Mediterranean vibe in the cobbled streets where Baroque churches and colonial mansions stand side by side with Buddhist statues, temples and shrines. Pretty Portuguese cafés intermingle with Chinese teahouses and sizzling street stalls; the smell of freshly baked pastries and the sound of percolating coffee mix with heady wafts of incense and clacking chopsticks. Both sides are integral to the unique character of Macau. A host of must-see ancient sights include the ruins of the Church of St Paul and A-Ma Temple but it is the eclectic food scene that has

Restaurants abound both on the peninsula and the laidback islands of Taipa and Coloane with everything from street food and local noodle bars to eleven Michelin-starred restaurants, including The Eight with 50 different types of dim sum and the 360-degree views at French favourite Robuchon au Dome (both have three Michelin stars). For more information visit macautourism.gov.mo

TOP FIVE FOR FOODIES Tacho A hearty Portuguese stew with Chinese meats and vegetables Linguado Macau Fried sole served with green salad African chicken Chicken baked with coconut, peanut paste, garlic and chillies Pastel de nata Portuguese egg custard tart Serradura Whipped cream with layered cookie crumbs

LONDON CALLING From November 17-29, Londoners can experience the flavours of Macau at A.Wong in Victoria. One of the UK’s best Chinese restaurants, it offers a modern take on regional Chinese cuisine and is introducing an eightcourse Macanese tasting menu developed by owner Andrew Wong and guest chef Florita Alves from Macau. Readers booking the tasting menu will be entered into a prize draw to WIN a luxury holiday for two to Macau. Visit awong.co.uk or call 0207 828 8931


ONE TO WATCH

Once, the Queensland restaurant scene was less about class than cash, but now, it seems, is the Sunshine State’s time to shine – whether it’s in Brisbane’s new status as the country’s most rapidly evolving food capital or the Miami Beach cool of the new QT Port Douglas hotel in the Far

North, with its lavish street stallstyle dining. The hottest news of late has been the redefining of beach chic on the Barrier Reef with the opening of the One&Only Hayman Island. Boasting an understated luxury that’s more barefoot than bling, and seven dining options, the resort – on the biggest island in the dazzling Whitsundays – has undergone a serious yet sensitive makeover. There are Szechuan and pan-Asian flavours to be had at Bamboo, alfresco Mediterranean and Coral Sea views to drink in at Aquazure, and rustic familyorientated pizza and pasta at Amici paired with a rich Italian wine list. The headline act is Fire on One, where chef Grant Murray’s thoroughly modern Australian dishes – think blue swimmer crab consommé – can be matched to a wine list that includes some of the most impressive vintages of the country’s iconic Penfolds Grange alongside fabulous champagnes... to wash down the Petrossian caviar, perhaps. (hayman.oneandonlyresorts.com)

HOME JAMES

Hotels are all well and good but sometimes eating in is what’s called for. Specialising in upmarket properties everywhere from Croatia to Florida's Gulf Coast, James Villas gives travel-weary guests the chance to relax in private. If you’re in the mood to cook, all villas offer well-appointed kitchens with full facilities for indoor and alfresco dining, while some 30 properties provide for an in-house chef as an optional extra. Our red-hot favourite? Villa de Ora on the Costa del Sol, a sleek eight-bedroom haven near Puerto Banus where the live-in chef will rustle up whatever you wish for. (jamesvillas.co.uk)

BRITS ON SNOW

With its chocolate-box beauty, St Moritz may epitomise the ultimate in European alpine luxury, but it was the British who first realised its potential as a winter playground. In tribute to those snow-hungry sophisticates, the chic Swiss resort is celebrating 150 years of winter tourism by theming its St Moritz Gourmet Festival 2015 the ‘British Edition’. From January 26th to 30th, the resort will host nine of the UK’s top chefs, representing a diverse cross-section of British culinary talent – from China Tang’s Chong Choi Fong to Angela Hartnett of Italian fine diner Murano. Spoilt guests can also expect chocolate and champagne tastings. If you miss one of the star chefs, you’ll have a chance to catch them all in one event at the Great BMW Gourmet Finale at the swanky Kulm Hotel. (stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch)


LODGE APPEAL

With its monumental Tolkienian landscape, world-beating wines and pristine local produce, it’s little wonder New Zealand lodges provide some of the greatest gourmet escapes. From Queen Elizabeth to Billy Crystal, umpteen heads of state and celebrities have rested their heads at the glorious Huka Lodge, on the banks of the Waikato River in the North Island. You don’t have to be a head of state to get the royal treatment at this refined 1920s fishing retreat. There’s stellar dining courtesy of British-born Paul Froggatt, who earned his stripes at Michelin restaurants in France and Hong Kong before taking up the reins here last year, while annual events with a food and wine focus might see you sipping some of Australia’s most notable reds while shooting the breeze with Booker prizewinner Eleanor Catton. On the South Island, meanwhile, rather than try to top the incredible Wanaka terrain, Minaret Station has

surrendered to it, helicoptering guests up into the isolated alpine camp in a remote glacial valley. Here, in luxurious tented suites with wall-to-wall sheepskin carpets, you can sip Central Otago’s finest pinot noirs while neck-deep in your balcony hot tub before a dinner of local venison or crayfish – fare that’s a perfect fit for the location. There’s snow on the hilltops, waterfalls cascading down the cliffs, roaring open fires and mountain picnics with seasonal lamb hissing away on the barbecue. It’s tempting to stay put, but if you can tear yourself away they’ll chopper you around the wineries, take you heli-skiing, deer hunting, or for a ridge-top champagne tour with breathtaking views of Mount Aspiring. (hukalodge.co.nz; minaretstation.com)

BIG IN JAPAN

FRENCH TOAST

It would be hard not to bubble with enthusiasm at the prospect of a tour through the historic cellars and châteaux of Champagne. On any serious bubbly enthusiasts’ list should be Laurent Perrier, with its epicurean events and six

miles of ancient cellars juxtaposed against gleaming stainless-steel tanks. If you can’t make the trip across the Channel, Hix Restaurant, Champagne & Caviar Bar at London shopping mecca Selfridges makes for a happy consolation prize. (laurentperrier. com; hixatselfridges.co.uk)

For those more versed in teppanyaki and yakitori, the unique food culture of Japan’s temple city, Kyoto, is an eyeopener, with its signature kyo ryori cuisine and staples such as sweet white miso paste. Finding favour with such celebrated chefs as Ferran Adrià and Rene Redzepi is a city speciality known as kaiseki – a form of multi-course dining in which each painstakingly

COCKTAIL HOUR

Choosing a single dot out of the 7,000 islands that make up the Philippines takes some doing, but if you had to pick one place to enjoy a sundowner, we reckon it would be hard to beat the remote private resort of El Nido Pangulasian Island, set in a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. An hour’s flight from Manila followed by a 25-minute boat transfer gets you to its blindingwhite shores. Crystal waters teeming with marine life, forest villas and organic vegetable gardens are the highlights here. Not forgetting, of course, cocktails on a raft in the middle of a lagoon. (elnidoresorts.com)

prepared morsel showcases ingredients with a deep reverence for the seasons. Bypass the big players and seek out the tiny Kappo Sakamoto. Tucked down a Gion district alleyway and with room for only 10 diners at a time, this Michelin-starred gem is where to try the likes of firefly squid, shaped like a flower for spring, or the signature furi-yuba – warm tofu skins dipped in soy, dashi and fresh wasabi. (gion-sakamoto.com)


BEACH BELLE

How do you improve on paradise? At the Mauritian beauty that is the Constance Belle Mare Plage hotel, you import six international Michelin-star chefs and team them with the best local talent for a week-long celebration of food. To mark the 10th anniversary of the Bernard Loiseau Culinary

Festival, held on March 21st to 28th, next year goes one better, with each chef boasting two Michelin stars. The highlight will be a cooking contest where guest and local chefs prepare a menu using market-sourced ingredients. Given the location, it’s hard to see who the losers might be. (bellemareplagehotel. constancehotels.com)

FAR EASTERN FUSION

Experience one of the world’s great culinary melting pots in Macau, where Portuguese and Chinese ingredients are tossed together with delicious results. Evidence of Macau’s heritage as a Portuguese colony is everywhere, from the world-famous custard tarts, or pastel de nata, made at Lord Stow’s Bakery (they turn out a staggering 10,000 a day), to the Mozambiqueinfluenced fare at Miramar, down by the beach on the island of Coloane. In Old Taipa Village, Antonio, with its portraits and coloured tiles cluttering the walls, is arguably the province’s most famous Portuguese restaurant, and an atmospheric place to order chargrilled sardines, pata negra or divine duck rice. But Macanese food draws not just from Portugal – influenced by Africa, India, South America and Malaysia, it’s one of the world’s original fusion cuisines. Macau’s status as a gourmet destination was reinforced when Michelin featured 74 of its restaurants in its celebrated 2014 guide, an increase of 23 venues on the previous year. (macautourism.gov.mo)

RULING THE WAVES

Their voyages may take you to some of the world’s most exciting destinations, but we’d be happy enough to hop on one of Crystal Cruises beautifully appointed ships and embark on a journey through their onboard menus. Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony were refreshed in style earlier this year, but attention to detail runs deep across the company – extending to a culinary offering that includes regionally focused food in the Crystal Dining Room, acclaimed Italian chef Piero Selvaggio’s

restaurant, Prego, and the Vintage Room, with outstanding wines and vinous-themed dinners. Headlining it all is Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, whose fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavours has influenced a generation of chefs. Nobu’s The Sushi Bar and Silk Road restaurants have become an integral part of the Crystal Cruises experience, and among the exceptional dishes worth seeking out is his signature dessert, a bento box filled with chocolate soufflé cake with shiso syrup and sesame ice cream. Crystal Cruises is set to become the first luxury cruse line to sail the legendary Northwest Passage, in 2016. (crystalcruises.co.uk)

TRAVELLER AD VERT ISEM EN T FEAT U RE

dine

mexico way

Spearheading Mexico City’s regeneration is a sizzling food scene and the rise of Mexican new cuisine

exico City is a steaming fusion of ancient and modern, Spanish and native cultures: a mesmerising metropolis in the midst of a cultural transformation. New life is being breathed into its historic streets, led by artists, architects, hoteliers, fashion designers, museum curators, chefs and restaurateurs. This thriving creative class is transforming once downtrodden neighbourhoods into buzzing urban pockets enticing the savvy traveller. Most noticeable is the capital’s culinary explosion with its new wave of restaurants that turn traditional recipes and street food into modern masterpieces.

M

Pujol is widely considered one of the country’s best restaurants. Chef Enrique Olvera uses Mexico’s diverse larder to reinvent traditional recipes. The menu is a gastronomic experience like no other and can include corn cobs dipped in coffee-flavoured mayonnaise with powdered chicatana ants (obviously optional), suckling lamb tacos and chilli-infused blackberry sorbet. Another must-book is the utterly unique Biko, courtesy of chefs Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso. Having opened almost 20 years ago, it is one of the city’s longstanding success stories and continues to use Mexican ingredients while playing on flavours from the Basque country. The fusion is so sublime it is impossible to tell where one country ends and another begins. Local produce is given maximum flavour, from quail and popcorn to chocolate globes that explode in the mouth. Another key player in Mexico City’s food scene is Quintonil, located in the upmarket Polanco foodie district. Since opening in 2012 it has established itself as one of the capital’s leading restaurants thanks to the vision and skill of head chef Jorge Vallejo (an Enrique Olvera prodigy). Using ingredients from

Clockwise from top: Museo Soumaya in Mexico City; dish from Quintonil; dish from Pujol

local artisan producers, he puts a fresh and natural twist into traditional Mexican recipes with an emphasis on forgotten herbs and grains. Jaír Téllez furthers the culinary revolution with MeroToro, a combination of Tijuana-born Téllez’s Baja Californian cooking and Gabriela Cámara and Pablo Bueno’s superb seafood. Found in the fashionable Colonia Condesa neighbourhood (now a hot dining destination), it dishes up a constantly changing menu of fresh ceviche, ravioli, risotto and fish dishes such as roasted red snapper with kohlrabi purée, complemented by a fantastic selection of fine wine and craft beer.

A host of bright young chefs have also got in on the action. Leader of the pack is Edgar Nuñez and his restaurant Sud 777, where he serves the already famous concoctions of carrots cooked in duck fat, and wheatgrass with goats’ cheese ice cream. The less limelight-grabbing yet elegant Rosetta opened in 2010 and has quietly established itself as a top table. Built on simplicity and seasonality, freshness and flavour, chef and owner Elena Reygadas trained in London under Giorgio Locatelli before returning home. Rosetta's menu has distinct Italian influences (particularly the homemade pasta section) but it is Mexican at heart with dishes such as sea snails, quail, alfalfa and roasted figs. For further information on Mexico City and its food scene go to visitmexico.com

LIVE IT TO BELIEVE IT visitmexico.com

COMPETITION


PHOTOGRAPH: REINER POHL

WHERE ARE YOU? It’s the invasion of the blobby snatchers! The vertical assault by these web-pawed stick men could be seen as sinister if it weren’t for their pop-bright colours and the cheerful poses of those who’ve made it to the top. Just look at the blue guy on the far left, anchoring his feet to the building to reach down and give his yellow friend a hand up. This five-storey former warehouse in a harbour-side media hub is one of several façades in the city to be taken over by these curious, cartoonish climbers. The 29 sculptures, which are made of resin, were created by a renowned artist who has exhibited at international art fairs. But it’s fairs plying other trades that this town is better known for, including fashion, tool-making and boat-building. Fans of electronic music will know it as the place where the besuited band who pioneered the genre was formed in 1970. The buzzing city is on the banks of a major river that runs for more than 1,200km through six countries. It is the longest waterway in the land where our clambering friends appear – and cruising along its northern stretch, you might just get to check their progress. Where are you? GRAINNE McBRIDE To enter, identify the building and city where the photograph was taken. Correct answers will be placed in a random prize-draw. For competition rules and prize details, please turn the page

COMPETITION PRIZE

WIN

A HOLIDAY WORTH £7,000 The north of india has so much to recommend it – the fortress cities of Rajasthan, the teeming streets of Delhi, the otherworldly Taj Mahal – that it can be hard to work out where to start. Abercrombie & Kent has the insider knowledge to ensure you get the most out of a trip here; and you’ll have the opportunity to experience the award-winning hospitality of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts, providing palatial places to stay including The Oberoi Udaivilas in Udaipur, left, and hotels in New Delhi, Agra, Mumbai and Jaipur. You’re guaranteed a spectacular introduction to this part of the subcontinent. Enter this month’s Where Are You? competition and you could win a six-night holiday in north India and Rajasthan courtesy of Abercrombie & Kent and Oberoi Hotels & Resorts. The prize, worth about £7,000, includes accommodation with breakfast at your choice of five Oberoi hotels, guided tours, return flights from London to Delhi and private transfers. The holiday is subject to availability and must be taken by 31 December 2015; Christmas, New Year and Easter are excluded. For more details, contact Abercrombie & Kent (+44 1242 858140; www.abercrombiekent. co.uk) and Oberoi Hotels & Resorts (00800 1234 0101; www.oberoihotels.com)

Identify the location, left, and send in your entry to arrive by 31 December

COMPETITION RULES 1. Entries for the Where Are You? competition can be sent on a postcard, by email or online (stating your full name, address and telephone number), and must correctly identify the place described according to the instructions given. 2. Entries must arrive no later than the last day of the month on this issue’s cover. 3. The Where Are You? competition is open to readers of Condé Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the date of entry, except for employees of


Condé Nast Publications, participating promotional agencies, contributors to Condé Nast Traveller, and the families of any of the above. Entries by post should be sent to: Where Are You? competition, Condé Nast Traveller, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Email entries should be sent to: compcntraveller@ condenast.co.uk. To enter online and for full terms & conditions, visit www.cntraveller.com/competitions

SEPTEMBER’S WINNER The winner of September’s competition is Nicola Davenport of Lincoln, who correctly identified the location below as Jadrija in Croatia. She wins a holiday for two at any Small Luxury Hotels property in China.

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARKO DRAGOVIC; REINER POHL

HOW TO ENTER

READER OFFER

MAKE A BREAK FOR

VIETNAM

Save more than £1,200 per couple on a beach holiday beside the shimmering East China Sea

B

lue skies and soft sand beckon on the pristine coast of central Vietnam, and the contemporary Angsana Laˇng Cô resort is the place to kick back in beautiful surroundings. Recharge with an Asian-inspired treatment at the spa or get the adrenalin pumping with high-octane watersports, including water-skiing and parasailing. And afterwards, sip a cocktail at sunset in the Upper Deck bar while deciding on which of the three restaurants to choose. Condé Nast Traveller readers have the opportunity to save £680 per person on a seven-night stay here, booked through Best At Travel. The price of £1,069 per person includes accommodation in a Deluxe Room on a bed-and-breakfast basis, one 90-minute massage, Vietnam Airlines return flights from Gatwick and transfers in Vietnam. The offer must be booked by 20 December 2014 and is valid for stays until 20 December 2015, subject to availability and excluding 20 December 2014 to 5 January 2015 and 18 February to 25 February 2015.

FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK Visit www.bestattravel.co.uk or call +44 20 7849 4258

μ8LI ÁVWX 'SRHq 2EWX -RXIVREXMSREP 0Y\YV] 'SRJIVIRGI [MPP JSGYW SR XLI JYXYVI ³ E RI[ [SVPH MR [LMGL XIGLRSPSK] GSQTIXIW [MXL LEVH PY\YV] ³ [EXGLIWERHNI[IPPIV]³ERHPIEXLIVKSSHW¶

Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor

09<96='32*)6)2') 4%0%>>3:)'',-3*036)2')-8%0= %46-0

,%6(09<96= 8,)13787-+2-*-'%28'32*)6)2')*368,)-2(9786= 7Y^]1IROIW[MPPLSWXERHGYVEXIXLITVSKVEQQIJSVEKVSYRHFVIEOMRKRI[ IZIRX JSV PY\YV] FYWMRIWW ERH GVIEXMZI PIEHIVW JVSQ SZIV GSYRXVMIW

Find out more: www.CNILuxury.com

India A State of Mind Nowhere in the world can truly match the diversity, scope and scale of India. land of legends, past empires and ancient civilisations, yet a powerhouse of modern industry and technology, only in India could these worlds weave so seamlessly together to create this unique and mesmerising land. The landscape too, unravels in every possible form. Framed by the mighty Himalayas, the topography unfolds to dense pine forests, glacial lakes, wild jungle, desert plains and a vast remote coastline. India really provides visitors with an experience tailored to individual tastes, says Indira Tandan

PRODUCED BY

PROMOTIONS

India T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

Spiritual

state of mind

Being a passionate people, Indians take their festivals extremely seriously; visit one of India's most holy places during Holi or Diwali and it will be a day you will never forget

Celebration is very much at the heart of Indian culture so it is well worth incorporating one of the many atmospheric festivals that keep the time-old traditions alive, from the ancient annual religious gatherings to the emerging avant-garde art and music festivals of today. Diwali, the festival of lights and Holi, the festival of colours celebrating the onset of springtime, are two of the most important annual festivals, sit back and watch the fervour of the locals celebrate new life, or better yet why not get involved. The most auspicious festival is the Kumbh Mela. Witness pilgrims, philosophers, saints and

sadhus gather in epic numbers to bathe in the scared waters of the Ganges. Travel back in time and recline in one of the many candlelit alcoves in the mighty 18thcentury Nagaur Fort listening to the sultry sounds of the World Suf Festival held every February. In autumn the colourful, carnival-like Pushkar Camel Fair attracts tourists, traders and buyers who descend in search of a bargain, to watch the races, or simply to soak up the atmosphere. In West Bengal visit the potters’ villages just before Durga Puja and

see the impressive handmade idols of the Hindu goddess, in all shapes and sizes, being prepared for their immersion in the Hooghly River. The Indian Art Fair in Delhi is already in its sixth year and is considered South Asia’s leading modern art fair. The electric annual Jaipur Literary Festival attracts leading literary luminaries from across the globe. 2015 will see the second Jodhpur One World Retreat headed by the dashing Maharajah of Jodhpur, who will bring together some of the world’s leading minds to help raise funds for the Indian


Head Injury Foundation with a series of music and entertainment events. From north to south, India is the home of Ayurveda, yoga and meditation. The award-winning luxury Himalayan Ananda Spa promises a spiritual pathway to the perfect union of body, mind and soul, set in picturesque Sal forests. For dyed-in-the-wool hippies, seek out the spiritual seaside resort of Gokarna and the heavenly SwaSwara yoga retreat or the gentle beach and backwater Ayurveda

resorts in Kerala, such as Somatheeram Ayurvedic Health Resort. Hedonists can head to Goa for the three-day Sunburn Festival on Candolim Beach or experience the month-long Chennai Music Festival in Tamil Nadu whilst staying at The Park Chennai, housed in the historic grounds of Gemini Film Studios. Being the birthplace of Buddha, India is scattered with holy sights, relics and monasteries. Dharamsala, known as

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HOLI CELEBRATION IN GUJARAT; FLAUTIST AT MEHRANGARH FORT; SADHU AT KUMBH MELA; DAY BEDS AT THE POOL AT THE PARK CHENNAI

‘mini Tibet’ is home to the Dalai Lama and the exiled Tibetan government. Here you will fnd a concentration of temples, monasteries, nunneries and meditation centres. Stay at the new RAAS Kangra hotel with its unique crescent-shaped architecture set into hillside. No spiritual journey is complete without arriving at dawn by boat to see the world waking up at the fabled city of Varanasi. Float down the Ganges and witness time stand still as life meets death in the holiest city in India.


Clockwise from top: ITC Grand Chola in Chennai; Kaya Kalp, The Royal Spa at the ITC Mughal in Agra; ITC Rajputana in Jaipur

responsible luxury

in

india

ITC Hotels, in association with Starwood’s ‘The Luxury Collection’ brand, offers eleven exceptional properties that draw inspiration from the cultural ethos of their regions

very aspect of these hotels is illustrative of ITC Hotels’ commitment to providing positive luxury experiences to the global traveller. With the globe’s largest number of LEED® (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Platinum Certified hotels, ITC Hotels is recognised as the ‘Greenest Luxury Hotel Chain in the world’. The luxury hotel chain offers experiential itineraries for your next trip to India, providing an exceptional taste of hospitality with opulent residences, renowned signature cuisine, and award winning wellness experiences, using contemporary business practices that harness the elements of nature.

E

the golden triangle Begin your journey at the capital city of New Delhi, amid intoxicating sights, sounds and smells, before retreating to the ITC Maurya. A favourite among world leaders, its sophisticated Buddhist stupa design

pays tribute to the great Mauryan Dynasty. The hotel also houses two of the city’s most sought-after restaurants: Bukhara and Dum Pukht. Next stop is Agra, home to the Taj Mahal, where you will receive a royal welcome at the ITC Mughal. Winner of the prestigious Aga Khan award for its excellent representation of Mughal architecture, the hotel is an archetype of the ethos of the Mughal era. On to Jaipur, the ‘Pink City’ of India with the ITC Rajputana, which is designed to echo the region’s traditional havelis with refined artistry that sublimely reflect the spirit of Rajasthan and its royalty. Complete your journey of the Golden Triangle at the ITC Grand Bharat in Gurgaon, ITC Hotels’ newest offering and India’s first all-suite luxury resort. Nestled in an idyllic setting, the resort offers luxurious living, elaborate culinary experiences, a royal spa, bespoke banqueting and a 27-hole signature Jack Nicklaus golf course.

southern splendour Start your journey in Chennai with the ITC Grand Chola, where the palatial design – inspired by the splendour of a glorious southern dynasty – creates an ideal retreat. Travel on to Bengaluru (Bangalore), the garden city of India, which beckons with its old world charm. Stay at either the ITC Gardenia, inspired by the magnificent gardens of the city or the aristocratic ITC Windsor, which evokes the days of the Raj. End your journey of southern India at Hyderabad and reflect upon the history of the Nizams, whilst experiencing the culture of the Kakatiya Dynasty with a stay at ITC Kakatiya.

western grandeur and eastern solace Commence your journey in western India at the cosmopolitan hub of Mumbai as you experience the region’s vintage charm with the ITC Maratha that provides a reflection of the ethos and culture of the Maratha Dynasty. Alternately, experience the city’s British colonial style, eloquently reflected in the architecture of the ITC Grand Central. Look east to Kolkata, and experience the heritage of Bengal with the ITC Sonar, India’s first business resort, which captures the essence of the city through its greenery and water bodies, reminiscent of the garden houses of yesteryear. For reservations and further information, visit itchotels.in/luxurysojourns


Tiger Reserve and also the world famous Khajuraho temples and the lesser-known ruins at Ajaygarh Fort. Running parallel to the western coast of India you can travel over the mighty Western Ghats visiting hill stations, elephant reserves, spice plantations and rainforests along the way. Vivanta by Taj – Madikeri, in the famous Coorg coffee region, is spread over 180 acres of living rainforest and is a beautiful contemporary hotel offering spectacular views and a chance to explore this unique rainforest both on foot and by zip wire. Just outside Delhi you will fnd the new fve star ITC Grand Bharat leisure resort where you can tee off on one of the three pristine golf courses set in front of the scenic Aravalli Hills. The all-suite resort will have 100 suites with alfresco terraces and some private plunge pools. Adventure can be as simple as taking a walk through the many spice plantations, camping under the desert stars, maharajah-style or sleeping in a tree house in the thick of the jungle. Go wild.

drifting

state of mind With India’s dramatic topography it is no wonder that the subcontinent offers some of the world’s most extraordinary and unique travel experiences. From the glacial lakes of the Himalayas to the dense mangrove forests and mighty rivers of Bengal, to its delicate waterways and mile upon mile of rugged coastline, India can provide idyllic waterside journeys.

India's waterways and coastlines are both revered and utilised as a vital transport system CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: WATERWAYS IN KERALA; FISHING BOAT ON DAL LAKE IN KASHMIR; ITC GRAND BHARAT IN DELHI; THE POOL AT VIVANTA BY TAJ – COORG

The laid-back beaches of Goa may be an obvious choice with the popular northern resorts of Baga, Anjuna, Palolem and Calangute, however, the sleepy fshing villages of the south offer more relaxed resorts such as the luxury Leela Goa and its exclusive Club quarters. In Kerala, aside from the popular beach resorts of Varkala and Kovalam, there are the quiet and untouched beaches of the north with Neeleshwar Hermitage and Vivanta by Taj Bekal offering quiet beach and backwater experiences away form the madding crowds of the south. On the east coast of Tamil Nadu the hotly-anticipated ITC Vilasa Mahabalipuram will surely be a stunning new beach resort providing many delicious dining options and endless views of the Bay of Bengal. Kerala’s unique network of palm-fringed waterways, lagoons and endless beaches allow you to choose from one of the many colonial retreats such as the gorgeous Malabar Escapes portfolio and waterside

resorts of CGH Earth, including Marari Beach resort, Coconut Lagoon and Brunton’s Boatyard in the historic Fort Cochin. No Kerala itinerary is complete without a stay on one of the many iconic thatched-roofed houseboats that drift lazily down the languid canals lined by coconut groves. Discover the Venice of the East, Kashmir where you can sleep aboard one of the many Kashmiri houseboats on the glassy Dal Lake, surrounded by the faded grandeur of the Raj. Those more adventurous of mind can head to the farfung towns and villages of Assam and Bengal aboard one of the Assam Bengal Navigation river cruises on the Ganges, Hooghly and the mighty Brahmaputra.


Get started by exploring the hidden Himalayan hill stations, tea plantations and steam train rides of the Raj that span from the east to west of the country. From the faded colonial splendour of the summer retreat of Shimla with its mansions, churches and mock Tudor shop fronts, to the fragrant rolling hills and dramatic vistas of Darjeeling. Stay at the converted Glenburn Tea Estate in one of their charming bungalows, sampling the delicate local tea from the comfort of your fower-clad veranda. Descend to the desert plains and discover the remnants of a very different Mughal Empire, Rajasthan, known as ‘Land of the Kings’, with its fairytale palaces and frescoed Havelis. Impressive UNESCO fort complexes pepper the landscape rising like legends out of the heat and dust: the mighty citadel of Mehrangarh Fort is perhaps one of the most imposing, situated on the cusp of the Thar Desert in Jodhpur, as is the pretty mirrored, mosaic halls of the elegant Amber Fort, on the rocky hills just north of Jaipur. En route to Udaipur visit the sprawling Chittorgarh complex which epitomises the romantic and tragic Rajput warriors, where three mass female suicides occurred as their men rode to their inevitable deaths on the ill fated battlefeld. The ancient fortifed city of Jaisalmer is still inhabited today and the lesser-known frescoes and stone carvings in the Bikaner Fort are well worth a short detour. Live like a king and stay at one of the many converted palace hotels from the Taj Hotels Palace portfolio including the architectural wonders of the Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

cultural State of Mind

From the northern reaches to the southern tip, India’s culture and history spans many empires and religions CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LOBBY OF THE UMAID BHAWAN PALACE, JODHPUR; TAJ LAKE PALACE HOTEL IN UDAIPUR; EXTERIOR OF THE UMAID BHAWAN PALACE; THE MEHRANGARH FORT

and the art deco delight of the Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur. The latest offering from Suján will host your stay at their newly refurbished Rajmahal Palace in one of the 20 brightly hued suites in central Jaipur. Built in 1632 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as an epitaph to his late wife, the iconic Taj Mahal is one of man’s most impressive feats and probably the world’s greatest monument to love. Whilst traversing the many fabled sites of the Golden Triangle make sure

you stop at the ghostly city of Fatehpur Sikri, which has remained uninhabited for nearly four centuries. Nowhere does India’s history and culture clash with such organised chaos than the imperial capital of Delhi. From the tree-lined boulevard, Rajpath, the dramatic centrepiece of Edwin Lutyen’s New Delhi, to the stately sandstone Red Fort of Old


CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: VIEW OF THE SERENE LODI HOTEL, NEW DELHI; THE SHORE TEMPLE AT MAHABLIPURAM IN TAMIL NADU; COVELONG BEACH, TAMIL NADU; POOL AT THE OBEROI, NEW DELHI; THE PARK HYDERABAD

Delhi and its frenzied bazaars, tombs, temples and ruins. Stay at the beautifully serene Lodi Hotel where most rooms boast private balconies with pools. Alternatively reside at The Oberoi, New Delhi, which celebrates 50 years as one of the city’s most iconic hotels. Straddling the desert of Rajasthan and the mighty Arabian Sea, Gujarat has a very distinctive culture and is a far less visited state than its neighbours. However, the superb architecture of Ahmedabad and many intricate Jain temples, the Sun Temple in Modhera, the tribal art and textiles of the Kutch, not to mention Gandhi’s historical legacy, offer a highly rewarding journey.

Falaknuma Palace, recently restored by the Taj Group, or alternatively the designer Park Hotel showcasing the latest contemporary Indian modern art.

Travel to the south of India to the furthest reaches of the Mughal Empire and explore the regal city of Hyderabad with its compelling monuments, museums, bustling bazaars and the mighty Golconda Fort. Experience India’s eclectic culture by either staying at the opulent baroque style ‘Palace in the Sky’

Enjoy some of India’s more remote cultures and regions in comfort, courtesy of one of the many luxury locomotive routes that snake through the incredible landscapes and vistas of places such as Rajasthan, Karnataka and Kerala. The Golden Chariot provides a delightful way of exploring the diverse

cultures of Karnataka, from the prehistoriclike landscape of the ancient capital of the Vijayanagara Empire, Hampi, to the palaces and markets of Mysore. There are also historic cave carvings at Badami and the extensive wildlife of Nagarhole, and the journey ends gloriously on the golden beaches of Goa. The Dravidian Hindu heartland of Tamil Nadu has been less exposed to northern infuences and as such has a very distinctive religious and political identity. Famous for its kaleidoscopic temple towns, such as Madurai, with its Meenakshi Temple, one of the most impressive temple complexes in the world. The state capital of Chennai offers a more gentle entry point into India and features some extraordinary Chola bronze statues, white-washed churches and many interesting remnants of the Raj. Stay in the newly built luxury Leela Hotel situated right on the seafront. Travel south and you will encounter the extraordinary legacy of the French colonisation at the pretty seaside resort of Pondicherry with its promenades and kepi-wearing gendarmes. Stay in the French quarter in the charmingly restored, honeyhued Palais de Mahé hotel. In order to ensure the perfect cultural journey speak to the specialists at greavesindia.co.uk who have a host of expert guides, historians, heritage walks, astrologers and personal shoppers on hand to capture your Indian state of mind.

C N T R AV E L L E R.CO M GIFTS FOR GLOBETROTTERS DOZENS OF IDEAS TO SUIT EVERY TYPE OF TRAVELLER

WHERE TO GO CHRISTMAS SHOPPING NEW COMPETITIONS: WIN A LUXURY WEEKEND ESCAPE EXCITING ESCAPES FOR THE NEW YEAR ‘WORD OF MOUTH’ BLOG: WHAT’S TRENDING AROUND THE WORLD COSY COUNTRYSIDE COTTAGES IN THE UK READERS’ TRAVEL AWARDS 2014: ALL THE WINNERS!

‘Like’ us at facebook.com/cntraveller Follow us at instagram.com/condenasttraveller

Follow us at twitter.com/cntraveller Follow us at pinterest.com/cntraveller

READERS’ TRAVEL AWARDS 2014

Maxine Roberts and Steve Kimber

Knut Wylde and Renaud Gregoire

Nicholas Coleridge

Tiffany Cope and Jonathan Nye

CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES

Alessandra Smith and Juliette Chappell

Jean Joseph and Mark Hehir

Robin Goh

THIS YEAR’S PARTY BROUGHT THE BEST OF THE TRAVEL WORLD TO THE SUBTERRANEAN COOL OF THE DIVE BAR IN LONDON’S HAM YARD, ONE OF THE HOTTEST HOTELS TO HAVE OPENED IN THE CAPITAL IN 2014. VOTED FOR BY CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER READERS, THE WINNERS INCLUDED ITALY AS THE MOST POPULAR COUNTRY AND THE EVERGREEN MALDIVES, WHICH CAME TOP IN THE ISLANDS CATEGORY. THANKS TO FIRMDALE HOTELS, MUMM CHAMPAGNE AND JAX COCO. TO SEE THE FULL LIST OF WINNERS, VISIT WWW.CNTRAVELLER.COM

Kate Pittam, Graham Hurner and Bee Haywood

Tracy Bamber, Charlotte Rous and Claire Griffin Condé Nast Traveller editor Melinda Stevens

Simon Leadsford and Daisy Bird

Julia Perowne, Philippe Perd and Paul Charles 208 Condé Nast Traveller December 2014

Jill Kluge and Flavia Caponi

Lalitha James

PHOTOGRAPHS: DARREN GERRISH

Lizzie Scott, Nicola Wood, Corinna Yap and Samantha Williams

w Ost wanted THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world

loves

food & drink

A THE

Picnic in the sky Did you know that Heathrow is the only airport in the world to provide passengers with an onboard picnic offering from every one of its restaurants? An unparalleled selection ranges from pizza to caviar and is the perfect excuse to bring sheer taste into whichever class you fly. heathrowairport.com

HEaltH & BEauty

CREAM of th thE CRop Unwind from the strains of your travels with this divine limited edition Crème de la Mer candle with sea-inspired scents to calm and comfort. £80, cremedelamer.co.uk

ExPErIENCE

No oNe DoeS CHRiSTmAS qUiTe like The RiTz london. THiS yeAR will be No exCepTioN wiTH A HoST of SUmpTUoUS DeCoRATioNS, A SpeCTACUlAR CHRiSTmAS TRee AND A SpoiliNg CHoiCe of wAyS To CelebRATe iNClUDiNg THe HoTel'S fAmeD AfTeRNooN TeA, DANCiNg THe NigHT AwAy AT A mAgiCAl DiNNeR DANCe oR ToASTiNg THe New yeAR iN THe pAlm CoURT ReSTAURANT oR Rivoli bAR. AfTeR THe feSTiviTieS wHy NoT ReTiRe To AN exqUiSiTe Room oR SUiTe AND AwAke To A DeliCioUS bReAkfAST iN UTTeR ComfoRT. DoUbleS CoST fRom £414 foR A SUpeRioR kiNg iN

SpA fRom AfAR

FAncy A FLUtteR? flutter eyes’ eyelash extensions already has a strong celebrity following and now the talented lady behind them has created a make-up range which will nurture your natural lashes without affecting your extensions. kate Stone eye make-up includes eyeliner pencils, crème eyeshadows, lash coating, lash enhancement serum, nourishing eye makeup remover and a spectacular mascara to boost extensions for a dramatic evening look. From £21, fluttereyes.co.uk

the Moroccan hammam has opened at the Urban Retreat in Harrods, and has all the romanticisim and regal details to make it an authentic and utterly luxurious experience. Traditional Hammam: £120 for 50 minutes, urbanretreat.

luxury

luxury

health & beauty

DeCembeR TheRiTzlondon.com

FLoweR PoweR Add a flash of glamour and colour to your winter look with a little help from these gorgeous frey wille floral Symphony Diva bangles. The new designs are pure art. £860, 020 7499 8637

March 2013 Condé Nast Traveller 000

W

W

TRAVEL

FIT FOR A PRINS For an unparalled Amsterdam experience check into the Prinsengracht Suite at The Andaz Amsterdam. This top floor, 141-square-metre suite has a roof terrace, a living and dining room (perfect for entertaining) and even a private library – although all of the hotel’s 122 guestrooms are beautifully designed and perfectly set in the heart of the City. Prinsengracht Suite from €3,425. amsterdam.prinsengracht. andaz.hyatt.com

A REAL GEM This time of year is all about the cocktail ring amd jewellery designer Sarah Ho’s collection for William & Son is nothing short of exquisite 18ct rose-gold ring with golden citrine and diamonds, £4,800, williamandson.com LUXURY

FASHION

NECK IT Celebrated fashion designer Jason Wu, appointed Connoisseur for St Regis Hotels & Resorts, has designed a beautiful limited- edition scarf in three colour palettes inspired by the soon-to-open St Regis Istanbul. £120, stregis.com/boutique

000 Condé Nast Traveller March 2013

A REAL ONE-OFF Onesies appear to be going stratospheric! Virgin Atlantic has collaborated with pioneering designer OnePiece to trial a limited-edition onesie for Upper Class passengers on board a number of selected flights. virgin-atlantic.com

W W LUXURY

TURKISH DELIGHT This delicate fine jewellery collection inspired by Turkish symbols is from new designer Alemdara and has our full seal of approval. Alemdara.com

STRIKE GOLD These Juste un Clou 18ct solid-gold cufflinks by Cartier will be part of a special exhibition entitled ‘The Man by Cartier’ at Harrods. The exhibition will be a fascinating insight into the role that the Maison has played in the lives of fashionable males since its creation in 1847. Exhibition runs until 19 November. £3,250, cartier.com.

FASHION HEALTH & BEAUTY

WINTER WARMERS: THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL HAS RETURNED THIS YEAR WITH THE WOOL COLLECTION, A COMPREHENSIVE VIEW OF WHAT’S NEW IN WOOL, FROM COATS TO KNITWEAR. CAMPAIGNFORWOOL.ORG

KITCHEN CAPERS Poggenpohl and Electrolux Grand Cuisine have worked together to re-imagine the home kitchen. The Fourth Wall combines design innovation with the tools of the professionals and places the kitchen at centre stage; the open-plan result makes for exceptionally chic dinner parties and perfect family moments. Poggenpohl.com, grandcuisine.com

MAN ABOUT TOWN Bentley For Men Intense is packed with more leather, more spices and more patchouli resulting in a sensual fragrance with staying power – for men who like to leave an impression. Available nationwide, £69.50

MANDARIN ORIENTAL’S LEGENDARY SERVICE, MICHELIN-STARRED CUISINE AND AWARD-WINNING SPAS ARE ALL WRAPPED UP IN ONE ELEGANT PACKAGE JUST IN TIME FOR CHRISTMAS. EGIFT CARDS ARE NOW AVAILABLE IN THE UK AND CAN BE SENT VIA EMAIL FOR SAME-DAY DELIVERY ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD. THEY CAN BE SAVED ONTO A SMARTPHONE FOR EASY RETRIEVAL, MAKING THEM THE SMARTEST AND EASIEST CHRISTMAS GIFT IN TOWN. mandarinoriental.com/gift-cards March 2013 Condé Nast Traveller 000

w

w

retail

floor it Jonathan Saunders brings his creative brilliance to a new collection from The Rug Company. Known for his graphic prints and use of bright colours, the results will bring a vibrant modernity to any environment. therugcompany.com

Good taste Metcalfe’s skinny has added to its healthier snack range with the very tasty Corn’ers. Using a flash-griddled process that results in 50% less fat than the average tortilla chip, they are also happily gluten-free. 89p, metcalfesskinny.com

Searching for the ultimate suit carrier? troubadour and thom sweeney have created a super-sleek leather carrier that is designed to hold up to two suits and four shirts, ensuring you look great wherever you go. £1,495, troubadourgoods.com

health & beauty

Picture perfect In search of a truly different Christmas gift? Condé Nast Portrait will create hand-finished books, glossy magazines and digital projects, accessing and commissioning the finest photographers, stylists, editors and filmmakers to create bespoke stories in the unparalleled Condé Nast style. cnportrait.com

HealtH & beauty Bobbi Brown has opened The Studio, its first store in the heart of Covent Garden with a wealth of experts and seasonal limited editions in addition to the full range of skincare and make-up! Warm Glow Eye Palette, £59, bobbibrown.co.uk

tRaVel

retail

eXPeRIeNCe

These smile-inducing linen bags were created by KISANY Living Linens for Sisley in the UK. Each one is stitched with a message of Hope, Joy, Luck, Give and Love and contains the following skincare products: Supremÿa Yeaux (30ml), Supremÿa at Night (2ml) sample, Black Rose Cream Mask (10ml) and All Day All Year (10ml). A percentage of each sale goes to fund education, health and housing in East Africa. £175, selected sisley counters

luXuRy

flaVoUr of the moNth The Peninsula Paris has opened a new Cantonese Restaurant, Lili. Offering sophisticated Chinese gastronomy in a gloriously opulent setting, the emphasis on fish and seafood dishes, dim sum and brilliantly authentic home-style cooking. paris.peninsula.com

a Christmas CraCker

health & beauty

With Christmas fast approaching, Brown’s hotel has partnered with Globe-Trotter to create The Brown’s Bespoke Traveller Package which includes a night in a suite, a bottle of ruinart Champagne and a bespoke 21-inch Globe-trotter suitcase. Guests will be contacted three weeks prior to their stay to order their bespoke suitcase which will be waiting for them upon arrival. From £2,000 per suite per night. roccofortehotels.com

Hotel Dar Zitoune, a luxurious hotel with 14 beautiful bungalows, 8 suites and 8 stunning tented rooms. The resort features 2 swimming pools, Jacuzzi and offers Hammam massages at the spa. Visit their newly opened ‘Veranda’ restaurant for spectacular garden views. Tel: 00 (212) 528 55 11 41 website: www.darzitoune.ma

Dream Destinations

EUROPE-UK ZURICH HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16 individually furnished rooms is a real jewel among the city’s hotels. The family-run and individual hotel and restaurant offer a home from home to business travellers, city explorers and Zurich lovers alike. Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98 Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch

LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds, butterflies, flowers, horses and carriages – no cars – how could one not enjoy this amazing paradise? You will find this hotel to have a great ‘joie de vivre’ as well as terrific food. La Sablonnerie has recently received the highly coveted award from Condé Nast Johansen - ‘Small Hotel of the Year’. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com or call 01481 832 061.

Set beside a stunning courtyard garden Blenheim Cottage offers tranquil luxury. With farmhouse character, a woodburner, microbrewery and Master Butcher, everything is in place for a cosy week away. Quote ‘Hamper’ for a complimentary Oxfordshire food hamper (exp. 01/06/15) www.oxfordcountrycottages.co.uk +44 (0)7830 165830.

SUNLUX collection hotels are positioned in a ‘Golden Triangle’ that links Cape Town’s landmark The Table Bay, within the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; Sun City’s The Palace of the Lost City, nestled in an extinct volcanic crater surrounded by the Pilanesburg big 5 nature reserve, and Zambia’s gracious Royal Livingstone, set against the stunning backdrop of Livingstone’s Victoria Falls. Each part of the luxury traveller’s journey is set to uncover the subcontinent’s ‘must-see’ attractions. En route the new Maslow Hotel, in Sandton City in Johannesburg, one of Africa’s most popular shopping destinations and theatre districts. Phone: +27 11 780 7810 Website: www.suninternational.com/

PORTIXOL, open all year and located within walking distance to Palma. The rooms are light, spacious, well-planned. Recognized for its food, wines and views, friendly and efficient service, laid back and relaxed ambience with a cosmopolitan mix of guests. Tel: +34 971 27 18 00. Website: www.portixol.com

The Griffin Inn. A 16th century inn based in the heart of Sussex. Offering thirteen individually designed bedrooms, it provides a haven of rest for any traveller. Their renowned restaurant offers a seasonal menu with locally sourced produce and an extensive wine list. www.thegriffininn.co.uk 01825 722890.

ESPLENDIDO, a modern vintage hotel, in charming Puerto de Soller. Perfect spot for lazy or active holidays. Enjoy the outdoor pools and sunbeds, and the spa which features an indoor pool, saunas and fully-equipped gym. Bistro serves fresh Mediterranean food. Sunset views from the cocktail bar. Tel: +34 971 63 18 50. Website: www.esplendidohotel.com

Deelin Mor Lodge is a secluded retreat in the midst of the Burren, one of Ireland’s most unique areas of outstanding natural beauty. This design led family home, built in the style of an Irish Georgian hunting lodge, accommodates up to 10 people and is perfect for holidays, special occasions or a weekend break. www.deelinmor.com Tel: +353 65 708 9009.

Welcome to Galini Hotel and Villas, your home away from home. Perched on the imposing volcanic cliffs of Santorini, in one of the most beautiful spots on the island, Galini overlooks a cerulean blue immensity with sweeping views of the volcano, the caldera and the Aegean sea. We invite you, our most welcomed guests, to discover our little paradise. Visit: www.hotelgalini.gr or Call: +30 22860 22095

Dream Destinations

Dream Destinations

EUROPE

ASIA

Hotel dei Borgognoni. Enjoy your sleep at this privately owned hotel. With just a 4 minute walk from the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain, it is ideally located. This Boutique hotel is offering Condé Nast Johansens readers an exclusive extra 5% discount on the web rates. Insert code johansens2013 in the booking engine of the hotel. Visit: www.hotelborgognoni.com tel: +39 06 69941505.

Dream Destinations

NORTH AMERICA STONEHURST PLACE ATLANTA. Located in Midtown Atlanta’s arts and business district, this eco-friendly inn is a quick, easy transfer from Atlanta International Airport and onward to many of Atlanta’s best places to tour. Atlanta’s crown jewel and Global Top Ten Urban Inn, Stonehurst Place is the perfect start or end to a stylish US holiday or business trip. The original 1896 architecture now offers beautifully appointed en-suite rooms and a sophisticated art collection. Prices from £129 include gourmet breakfast, allday refreshments, parking and wi-fi. phone: +1 404 881 0722 email: [email protected] www.StonehurstPlace.com

Eva’s Escape at the Gardenia Inn, San Antonio, Texas, is located in the famous King William Historic District, the house was built circa 1905 and is tastefully furnished with antiques and family treasures. Whether enjoying a stroll along the Riverwalk or soaking in one of the antique claw foot tubs, a stay at Eva’s Escape will rejuvenate your body and spirit. W: www.evasescape.com T: +001 210 223 5875

A stay at Gangtey Goenpa Lodge offers an insight into the ancient Kingdom of Bhutan, which to this day remains one of the world’s most mysterious and undiscovered destinations in the world. To experience unparalleled luxury, breathtaking views and Himalayan hot air balloon flights visit www.easternsafaris.com or call 00975-1712-9072 or 00975-2-340943.

Dream Destinations

AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition in the Historic centre of Lisbon. Stay in one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels Collection – As Janelas Verdes, Heritage Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania, Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo. Tel: +351 213 218 200 [email protected] www.heritage.pt

Dream Destinations

AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN

Resort Valle dell’Erica, Sardinia is Delphina’s 5* resort style hotel, suitable for both couples & families, situated in a spectacular setting with secluded beaches and stunning sea views towards the Maddalena islands and Corsica beyond. Visit www.justsardinia.co.uk or call 01202 484858.

HOT LIST

THE 60 BEST

NEW HOTELS IN THE WORLD

Come to the Gran Hotel Atlantis Bahía Real, located in one of the most attractive areas of Fuerteventura, right on the seafront near the stunning beauty of Corralejo Natural Dune Park. This is a hotel designed for the ultimate in relaxation, privacy and luxurious pampering, where personal touch and attention to detail are guaranteed. Tel: +34 928 53 71 53, E-mail: [email protected]

THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar! The Zanzibar Collection is a privately owned collection of beautiful boutique hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar, lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches in the world. Offering a range of water sports, stunning spas and East Africa’s only National Geographic affiliated PADI 5 star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa was chosen as one of the World’s 60 Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast Hotlist. www.thezanzibarcollection.com

THE HUKA RETREATS www.hukaretreats.com Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji and New Zealand – chic and understated statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all offering an exceptional hospitality experience to the world’s most discerning travellers. GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South Africa, is located within a one-hour drive from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine and art gallery with superb accommodation at The Owner’s Cottage and La Provençale. T +27 (0)21 876 8600 E [email protected] DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of Pacific private island beauty, romance and luxury ‘castaway’ time for a max. of 8 guests, on an exclusive-use basis. HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and absolute style since the 1920’s. With just 25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured grounds. Contact: T +64 7 378 5791 E [email protected] for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island reservations.

PONGWE BEACH HOTEL

Zanzibar

HOTELLERIE DE MASCOGNAZ

WWW.PONGWE.COM

Honeymoon in Paradise Intimate atmosphere Stylish organic architecture Lush natural environment Fantastic marine life Unguja Lodge – Zanzibar +255 (0)774 477 477 • +255 (0)774 857 234 [email protected] www.ungujalodge.com

www.hotelleriedemascognaz.com Tel: +39 338 7295708 Email: [email protected]

Muyuna Lodge in Peru is a small, secluded rainforest lodge with guaranteed observation of monkeys, birds, sloths, pink dolphins, fish, and caimans in their own habitat. Located in the Tasmshiyacu-Tahuayo Reserve, guaranteeing you a unique experience. www.muyuna.com T: (+51 65) 24-2858 [email protected]

-- 6 ,/- /1,

/i ÕÝÕÀÞ vÌ Õì°°°

|

[

Y

U t

|«

||

| |

|[

|Y

£° ," ,"- ° /i ,ÀÃi *i>À Ã v μÕ>ÌÞ >` V iÃ | vÀ Ìi -ÕÌ -i>Ã½ wiÃÌ ViVÌ] Õ`ÕLÌi`Þ Ìi ÃÌ Û>Õ>Li VÕÌÕÀi` «i>ÀÃ Ìi ÜÀ` Ì`>Þ° -iÌ £n wi }`] ÌiÀ } ÕÃÌÀi >` Ã}Ì >ÌÕÀ> Li ÃiÃ > i iÛiÀÞ «i>À ÕμÕi° iÜiiÀÞ Ã vÕÞ >`VÀ>vÌi`° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°ÀÀÃi°V À V> ³Î ÎÎ£ {nnÇ£Ó vÀ Ài vÀ >Ì° Ó° 6 / 7/ "6 / 1 - 9 *, //9 |

/, ° Õvy Ã ÀiV>À>Ìi` vÀ £ ÓäÃ£ xäÃ ÛÌ>}i Ü>ÌV Ûi iÌÃ] ÃiÌ ÜÌ ÌiÀ À}> ÀÕLÞ iÜiÃ] L>V i` ÜÌ ÛÌ>}i i>ÌiÀ >` «ÀiÃiÌi` ÛÌ>}i Ã«Ài` LÝ] Ë{ ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°«ÀiÌÌÞiVViÌÀV°V°Õ À V> äÇnÇä ÈäÇÓx° Î° , 6 6 /° /,6 - , 7,*t >ì }>` vÀ £ää¯ V>Ã iÀi° /i ì> /À>Ûi} «>t -iÀÕÃÞ ÃÌÞÃ] ÞiÌ «iÀviVÌÞ «À>VÌV>° `Ã Ì > ÃμÕ>Ài] }Ì >Ã >À° Û>>Li > À>}i v ÃÌÕ} VÕÀÃ >Ì ËÓää° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°vÀiVÛiÛiÌ°V°Õ À V> ä£ÎÓx {ÈäÈÈ Ì ÀìÀ° {° *" /-+1, LÞ iÛ iÀÀÞ Ü>Ã VÀi>Ìi` Óä£Ó] ÜÌ Ìi ÌiÌ Ì ÃÜV>Ãi ÃÌÞi] >` ÛiÀÃ>ÌÌÞ ìÀ `>Þ iÃÜi>À° 7Ì Ìi ÌÌ] º ½Ì V Ì LivÀi ÞÕ ÀV Ì ÞÕÀ «V iÌ» i>V «V iÌ ÃμÕ>Ài >Ã > ÕμÕi ii iÌ Ì>Ì Ã > ÌÃ Ü° VÀ«À>Ì} ÛLÀ>Ì VÕÀÃ] Ãii «>ÌÌiÀÃ] >` V>ÃÃV ÌiÝÌÕÀiÃ vÀ > >Þ > ÜÕ` Li «ÀÕ` Ì Üi>À° «V iÌÃμÕ>Àivi Ì> iÃ «Àì VÀi>Ì} Û>ÌÛi ViVÌÃ Ì>Ì >Ài ÌÀi`Þ >Ã Üi >Ã >vvÀ`>Li° 6ÃÌ Ìi ÜiLÃÌi >Ì ÜÜÜ°>«ViÌÃμÕ>Àivi°V À V> ää£ È{È ÈÎx{nÓ° x° 11-/ 7 - «ÀiÃiÌ Ìi ¼¼ Ìi` `Ì ÀÃÌ >Ã Õvv½½ ËÈ x®] Ìi «iÀviVÌ «ÀiÃiÌ vÀ ÀÃÌ >Ã° Ì V iÃ £nVÌ ÞiÜ }`] ÀÃi }`] À ÃÛiÀ° >` >ì ` ÕÃ} }>ÀiÌÃ] VÌÀi] ÌÕÀ >i >` Ã>««ÀiÃ] Ìi Üi>ÀiÀ Ü Li Ìi Ì> v Ìi ÌÜ° / w` ÕÌ Ài] ÛÃÌ ÜÜÜ°>Õ}ÕÃÌiiÜiÃ°V À V> äÓä ÇÈäÎ £än{° ÀÃÌ >Ã `ÃVÕÌ v £x¯ Ã >Û>>Li LÞ iÌiÀ} ¼18½ >Ì ViV ÕÌ LivÀi ÓäÌ iVi LiÀ Óä£{° È° " -/ / 7 ,9° À Ìi wÀÃÌ Ì i ÃÌÀÞ] >À}Õ>LÞ i v -ÕÌ vÀV>½Ã ÃÌ VV ÜiÃ] 6 ì ÃÌ>Vi Ã Ü >Û>>Li ÌiÀ Ü iÝVÕÃÛi £°x ÌÀi >}Õ LÌÌi° "Þ £]xäÈ >}Õ LÌÌiÃ v 6 ì ÃÌ>Vi Óään ÜiÀi LÌÌi`] i>V LÌÌi >`Õ LiÀi` >` >VV «>i` LÞ > ViÀÌwV>Ìi v >ÕÌiÌVÌÞ° *ÀiÃiÌi` > >`VÀ>vÌi` >` «ÀÕ`Þ -ÕÌ vÀV> Üì LÝ] Ìi x «Ì À>Ìi` 6 ì ÃÌ>Vi Óään >}Õ Ã ÃÌ ìwÌiÞ > Üi VÃÃiÕÀ½Ã `Ài> ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°iVÃÌ>Ì>°V À V> ³Ó£ Ó£ Ç{ x£nn vÀ vÕÀÌiÀ vÀ >Ì° Ç° / * "* 9° -ÌÞÃ Û}] Ü>ÌiÛiÀ Ìi Ãi>Ã° À Ìi ÃÌ ÕÝÕÀÕÃ ÀÕ}Ã >` ÌÀÜÃ] VÕÀvÕ }ÌÃ >` >ÌiÀÃ >` VÃiÃÌ >ÌÃ >` }ÛiÃ q ÌiÞ >Ûi

ÀÃÌ >Ã ÜÀ>««i` Õ« vÀ ÞÕ° -ii ÌiÀ iÜ Ãi>Ã À>}i v >ÌÕÀ> ìÃ >` ÀÕ}Ã >` /À>ÛiiÀ Ài>ìÀÃ Ü LiiwÌ vÀ > iÝVÕÃÛi `ÃVÕÌ v £x¯] μÕÌi £x >Û>>Li ÕÌ ÎÀ` iVi LiÀ Óä£{° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°Ìi}>V>«}V«>Þ°V À V> äÓÓä nä ° n° /i 7/ ,*,"" *" - V LiÃ VÀi`Li Ü>ÌiÀ] `ÕÃÌ >` `À« «ÀÌiVÌ ÜÌ V «iÌi i>Ãi v ÕÃi vÀ > > >â} } >ÞÜiÀi] ` iÛiÀÞÌ} «iVi v Ì° VViÃÃ iÛiÀÞ vi>ÌÕÀi v ÞÕÀ *i vÀ >Û}>Ì] «Ì}À>«Þ >` V ÕV>Ì] Ã>vi Ìi Üi`}i Ì>Ì Ì½Ã £ää¯ Ü>ÌiÀ«Àv >` «ÀÌiVÌi` ÜiÌiÀ ÞÕ½Ài Ìi ÕÌ>Ã] Ìi Li>V À Ìi ÃÌÀiiÌ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°vi`}i°V°Õ À i > iJvi`}i°V°Õ ° 9" ½Ã >`VÀ>vÌi` iÜiiÀÞ Ã ÀiÜi` vÀ ÌÃ ivvÀÌiÃÃ wÌ] μÕ>ÌÞ >` iÝVi«Ì> ÕÃi v À>Ài }i ÃÌiÃ >` iVvÀi`Þ >ÌiÀ>Ã ÃÕÀVi` vÀ > ÛiÀ Ìi }Li° -Ü\ ->««Ài > ` ÀÕâÞ À>ViiÌ f£]{ÓÓ] E7 VÀi`Þ i>ÌiÀ *>Ûi >}i fÓÓä] £{ 7Ìi `] ÀÕâÞ E ->`>Ü` fÓ {] > ` i >ÌÌi À>ViiÌ f{nn] ÃÌi /ÕÀμÕÃi >Ài /ÀLi À>ViiÌ f

x° À Ài vÀ >Ì] ÛÃÌ ÜÜÜ°LÞ`°V £ä° /i "1- " 1

vviÀÃ > Üì ÃiiVÌ v iÌV>Þ ÃÕÀVi` «ÕÀi «>Ã >Ã] ÌÜ > ÃÌÞiÃ° /i ÕìÞ «>Ã >] ÌÀ>`Ì> VÕÀÃ >` ìÃ}Ã] >Ã > }Ì Üi}Ì yiiVÞ ÃvÌiÃÃ £ää¯ V>Ã iÀi ÜÌ > > ÃÌ ÌÌi` vii} Ì Ìi Üi>Ûi° /i LLÞ «>Ã > >Ã > ÕV wiÀ ii}>Vi] > £Ó VÀÃ `> ` Üi>Ûi] }Û} > >À v ivvÀÌiÃÃ ÃÌÞi° /i «iÀviVÌ ÀÃÌ >Ã }vÌ À ÜÌiÀ ÌÀi>Ì° À Ài vÀ >Ì] ÛÃÌ >LÀi½Ã 7>Àv] -ÕÌ > ] - £ ** À i >Ì ÜÜÜ°ÌiÕÃiviÕVi°V /ÜÌÌiÀ\ JÕÃiv ÕVi ££° "9*"* -1,° n Þi>ÀÃ ÃVi >««i>À} Ìi À>}½Ã i] "Þ«« ÃÕÀv ÌÜiÃ >Ài ÃÌ > ÃÌÀ} ÀÃÌ >Ã }vÌ v>ÛÕÀÌi° iÃ}i` ÀÜ>] ÌiÃi vÕ Þ ÃÕÀv ÌÜiÃ `ÕLi Õ« >Ã > vÕ «À>VÌÃi >Ì vÀ ÃÕÀw} >` VÕì > vÀii ÃÌÀÕVÌ> 6 ÜÀÌ Ë °

®° >ì vÀ £ää¯ /ÕÀ Ã VÌÌ ÌiÞ½Ài }` vÀ `ÀÞ} vv Ìt "Þ«« >Ã Ãi > }Ài>Ì À>}i v ÃÕÀvÜi>À] ÌiÀ Ü V`Ài½Ã L ¼*}Ã }Ì -ÕÀv½ «ÕÃ ÌiÀ iÜiÃÌ >``Ì q ÃÕÀvL>À` «L>À`Ã° ÕÞ i >Ì ÜÜÜ°Þ««°V°Õ À V> ä£n{ä ÇÇä xxÈ° £Ó° " /" «ÀiÃiÌ ÌiÀ Li>ÕÌvÕ >ÌiÀiV ÃÜ ÃÕÌ] ìÃ}i` Ì y>ÌÌiÀ Ìi w}ÕÀi° 7ÃÌ Ìi Ã>«i Ã Ã «i] Ìi ÃÕÌ½Ã ìV>Ìi iÌ>V ÌÀi>` >` ii}>Ì i LiÃ iÌ Ü Õì>LÞ > i ÞÕ ÃÌ>` ÕÌ ÞÕÀ ÃÕ iÀ ÌÀ>ÛiÃ° / w` ÕÌ Ài] ÛÃÌ ÜÜÜ°L>L>>>ViVÌ°V À V> äÓä Ç£{n £äxä° £Î° ³ "" \ μÕÌiÃÃiÌ>Þ ÀÌÃ] `ÃÌVÌÛi] ÃÌÞÃ] vÕVÌ> >VViÃÃÀiÃ vÀ `ÃViÀ} `}Ã >` ÌiÀ ÜiÀÃ° LiÃ« i ÃiÀÛVi] >` >ì vÀ >ÀÀÃ /Üii` >` i>ÌiÀ° ` Ì>Ì Ã iÌ} Ã«iV> vÀ ÌiÀ ViVÌ v ÕμÕi `} Ü> iÀ½Ã L>}Ã] V>ÀÃ] i>`Ã] ÌÞÃ] ÌÀÜÃ >` Ài° / w` ÕÌ Ài] ÛÃÌ ÜÜÜ°>>`°V À V> äÇ{£ Èn{ÇÓ{° £{° Ãi > ÌÌi` Ã }Ìi À > Ã>Ì Ã }Ì}Ü vÀ -° - Ã Ã }Ì] > } Ì }Ài>Ì vÀ ÌÀ>Ûi° iÃÃiÌ> Ü>À`ÀLi ÕÃÌ>Ûi vÀ iÛiÀÞ ìÀ LÕÃiÃÃÜ i] À «iÀviVÌ vÀ `>ÞÃ] Ã ÕÝÕÀÕÃ >` ÞiÌ «À>VÌV> vÀ ÌÀ>Ûi° /i «iÀviVÌ }vÌ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°V>Ã°V £x° ½Ã Ý >` >ÌV ÃiiVÌ v Li>ÕÌvÕ ÃÜ Üi>À ÜÌ ÌÃ y>ÌÌiÀ} VÕÌ >` }À}iÕÃÞ ÃvÌ Ì>> v>LÀV Ü >Ûi ÞÕ vii} ÞÕÀ LiÃÌ Ìi Li>V° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°Ly}°V >` iÌiÀ vÀ > £ä¯ `ÃVÕÌ LivÀi Ó£ÃÌ iVi LiÀ Óä£Î] À V> än{x Î£ {n£Ç vÀ Ài vÀ >Ì° £È° 8 ,"" -VÀ ,V iÀÃ Ã > }Ài>Ì ÛiÃÌ iÌ iÀ} VÃ] >Ã ÌiÞ ÀiμÕÀi iÃÃ «ÀiÃÃÕÀi Ì >VÌÕ>Ìi Ì> ÌÞ«V> Ài Ìi LÕÌÌÃ] Üi «ÀÛ`} > ÃÌÀ} Ì>VÌi ÀiÃ«Ãi° -VÀ ,V iÀÃ Ã > Ã >ÀÌ ÛiÃÌ iÌ Ã «i] LiiwV> Û>Ì Ì>Ì «ÀÛiÃ > VÃÕ iÀ½Ã iÝ«iÀiViÃ Üi Ã«iVwV>Þ V>ÌiÀ} Ì Ìi >VViÃÃLÌÞ >À iÌ°

> `>Ìi°Û>ÀJÝVÀ°V vÀ Ài ÛiÃÌ iÌ ìÌ>Ã° £Ç° «ÀiÃiÌ ÌiÀ viÃÌÛi >` vÕ ÀÃÌ >Ã «Õ``} >Ì >` LÌiÃ] >LÃÕÌiÞ Ìi VÕÌiÃÌ >VViÃÃÀÞ vÀ ÌÀi`Þ L>LiÃ >` V`Ài ÌÃ ÀÃÌ >Ãt 1Ãi ÌiÀ Ã«iV> `ÃVÕÌ Vì /,6 ,Óä Ì ÀiViÛi > Óä¯ `ÃVÕÌ° 6ÃÌ ÌiÀ ÜiLÃÌi >Ì ÜÜÜ°>>}LL°V°Õ À V> äÓä ÇÓÇÓ £Ó{Ó vÀ Ài vÀ >Ì°

-- 6 ,/- /1, |U

|t

«

|

[

Y

U

t

«

|

[

£n° / E 9] iÀ Þ -ÌÀiiÌ] ` >Ài Ìi > iÀÃ v Ìi wiÃÌ μÕ>ÌÞ ÃÀÌÃ ÃVi £n

° À ÌiÀ vÕ ViVÌ] Ãii ÜÜÜ°`ÌV>ìÞ°V°Õ À ÛÃÌ ÌiÀ iÝ«iÀiVi` >` ì`V>Ìi` «ÀviÃÃ>Ã ` >Ì ÎÇ iÀ Þ -ÌÀiiÌ] äÓä ÇÇÎ{ {ÇäÇ À ÇÎ iÀ Þ -ÌÀiiÌ] äÓä ÇÎä xÎÎÈ° £° iÜ 9À LÀ>` , -77 , ìLÕÌÃ ÌiÀ £Î «iVi ÃÜ Üi>À >` £Ó «iVi VÛiÀÕ« ViVÌ vviÀ} ÌiÝÌÕÀi`] ÕÝÕÀÕÃ v>LÀVÃ >` vÀiÃ ÃÕiÌÌiÃ° 7Ì Ìi «Ã«Þ v ViVÌÛÌÞ Li` Ìi i] Ìi ViVÌ ÜÀ Ã Ì}iÌiÀ >Ã > Y Üi° «iViÃ V «i iÌ} i>V ÌiÀ] ÃÞVÀÃ} Ì}iÌiÀ i > ivvÀÌiÃÃÞ VV «Õââi° Ì Ã > >ÕÀ} >` Ì iiÃÃ ViVÌ >ì iÜ 9À ÌÞ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°LÀ`}iÃÜÜi>À°V i > vJLÀ`}iÃÜÜi>À°V À Ãii JLÀ`}iÃÜÜi>À Óä° 1 1, , 7/ -° > `Ã] ÀÃi }` >` ÌiÀ v «i>À Ì> i ViÌÀi ÃÌ>}i ÌÃ ÃÌÕ}] >ìÃ Ü>ÌV° iÃ}i` LÞ i ÌiÀ Ì> i` `Õ >ÕÀiÀ ÀÜ}] >«i `Õ >ÕÀiÀ½Ã }À>`Ã] ÌÃ v>LÕÕÃ] ÃÜÃÃ >ì] Ìi` i`Ì Ì i«iVi Ü >`` ii}>Vi >` > LÌ v Ã«>À i Ì iÛiÀÞ VV>Ã° ,iLiVV> >ìÃ Ü>ÌV Ë{nx° -ii Ìi vÕ ViVÌ >Ì ÜÜÜ°`Õ>ÕÀiÀÜ>ÌViÃ°V À V> än{x x£ ÎäÇ{° Ó£° Ûi > }À}iÕÃ , * }vÌ ÌÃ ÀÃÌ >Ã° LÕÌμÕi ViVÌ v ÕÝÕÀÕÃ Ã V>Ài vÀ Li>ÕÌvÕ Ã ] ` >` }iÌi ÞiÌ ÌiÃiÞ ÃÌÕÀÃ}°

Ãi vÀ i v ÌiÀ iÝμÕÃÌi }vÌ ÃiÌÃ À ÃiiVÌ ÞÕÀ Ü V L>Ì° Àii «ÃÌ>}i >` «>V } ÕÌ Ó£ÃÌ iVi LiÀ°°° Þt 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°VÀi>«i>V°V°Õ ÓÓ° /Ã «>À v i>ÀÀ}Ã Ã vÀ "//" ° Li>ÕÌvÕ ViVÌ v >` >ì iÜiiÀÞ >ì v }i ÃÌiÃ] V>À>Ì }`w }` >` ÃÌiÀ} ÃÛiÀ° /i >ÌiÀ> >` VÕÀ V L>ÌÃ > i ÌÃ ViVÌ ÕμÕi >` ii}>Ì° -ii ÜÜÜ°ÌÌ>>° vÀ Ài ìÌ>Ã° ÓÎ° ,6 "1- " /- Ã > ÃV> iÌiÀ«ÀÃi Ì>Ì vviÀÃ > ÕÝÕÀÕÃ À>}i v > «iÀÃ >` }ÕÀ iÌ }vÌ LÝiÃ° /iÀ LiÃ« i ÃiÀÛVi >ÜÃ ÞÕ Ì>À > LÝ vÀ ÞÕÀ Ûi` i] ÜV Ã «>V >}i` Ìi V ÕÌÞ] vviÀ} LÕÃiÃÃ Ã Ã >` VÀi>ÌÛi ÌiÀ>«Þ Ì ÃV>Þ Ã>Ìi` Ü i° - LÞ Ãi`} > }vÌ LÝ Ì > Ûi` i] ÞÕ½Ài >Ã Ãi`} > }vÌ Ì Ìi ÜìÀ V ÕÌÞ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°Li}À>Û>}vÌÃ°V À V> än{Î ÓÓ£ £nän vÀ ìÌ>Ã° Ó{° 1 6 6 / Ã Ìi i v VÌi «À>ÀÞ >` V>ÃÃV vÌÜi>À `ÀiVÌ vÀ Ìi i>ÀÌ v ÕÀ«i° Ü>ÞÃ i ÃÌi« >i>`] ÌiÞ >Ûi iÃÌ>LÃi` Ìi ÃiÛiÃ ÌiÀ μÕ>ÌÞ >` wÀÃÌÀ>Ìi ÃiÀÛVi° 6ÃÌ Ìi >Ì £Ç{ }Ã ,>`] -7Î {1*] V> äÓä ÇÎÇÈ Ç{{Ó À LÕÞ i >Ì ÜÜÜ°LÕiÛiÛiÌÃiÃ°V Óx° , " 7- ÜÀ Ã }` >` ÃÛiÀ Ì VÀi>Ìi ÃÕLÌi] ii}>Ì iÜiiÀÞ° >V «iVi Ã ìÃ}i` >` >` >ì ÕÃ} Ìi }iÃÌ μÕ>ÌÞ «ÀiVÕÃ ÃÌiÃ ÜÌ ÃÌÀ } VÕÀÛi >` Ìi>À`À« Ã>«iÃ° iÃ« i V ÃÃÃ Ì ÀìÀ >Ì ÜÜÜ°À>iÜÃiÜiiÀÞ°V À i > À>JÀ>iÜÃiÜiiÀÞ°V ÓÈ° i>ÕÌvÕÞ >`VÀ>vÌi` ÃÛiÀ] ÌÃ iV >Vi ,,* ËÓÎä® >` À} ,,* Ë£Óä® >Ài vÀ /i i> iVÌ LÞ - 7 ° Ã«Ài` LÞ `> i> «>ÌÌiÀ] ÌiÃi ÕÃÌ>Ûi «iViÃ >Ài > VÌi «À>ÀÞ ÌÜÃÌ ÌÀ>`Ì> w}Àii iÜiiÀÞ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°Ã>>iÜi°V°Õ À V> äÇnÓn ÇÇ{Èx vÀ Ài vÀ >Ì° ÓÇ° / E 6 q Ü vÀ ÌiÀ ÃÌÕ} VÌi «À>ÀÞ >` >ì ÀÌÃ iÜiiÀÞ ÃVi £

Ç° i>ÌÕÀi` Ã Ìi ÕμÕi ,««i >}i Li>Ìi ÃÛiÀ >` £nVÌ }`] ËÓäx >À L>}iÃ] iÛiÀÞ`>Þ i>ÀÀ}Ã] À>ÛÃ} À}Ã >` ÕV ÕV Ài°°° ÕÞ iÉÃÌV ÃÌÃÉLÀVÕÀi] ÛÃÌ ÜÜÜ°>Ì>>ìÛi°V°Õ À V> ä£xnä ÇxÎÎ° Ón° * ,/7"" Ã Ì> } ÀiÃÀÌ ÃÌÞiÃ Ì > Üi ÌiÀ iÛi ÜÌ ÌiÀ ÕÝi i>ÌiÀ ÃÜ Üi>À° Ì ÞÕÀ V ÃÜ iÀÃ] ÌiÃi «iViÃ >Ài «iÀviVÌ vÀ viÃÌÛ> `>ÞÃ] Þ>VÌ «>ÀÌiÃ] >` ÌÕÀ} i>`Ã° À} ÞÕÀ iÜ 9i>À½Ã Ûi i v ÌiÃi L>` LÞÃ >` Li Ìi ÌÀÕi Ì> v Ìi «>ÀÌÞ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°«>VwV>``ÀvÌÜ`°V Ó° - - ,6 - - >Ài >ì Ì ÃÌ>Þ «ÕÌ° 7iÌiÀ i>À} > iÜ >ì «>ÃÃ À `ÕV `Û} /i>Õ«] ÌiÃi vÕ] yÀÌÞ >` `ÕÀ>Li ÃÕÌÃ ii« Õ« ÜÌ ÞÕ° À > L Ì>Ì ÞÕ LiiÛi ] vii VwìÌ ] vii V vÀÌ>Li ] >` >LÛi > Ì>Ì ÞÕ vii ÃÌÀ}] ÃiÝÞ >` Ãiv>ÃÃÕÀi` ] ÛÃÌ ÜÜÜ°ÃiÃ}À>ÛiÃLÃ°V Îä° -/ " / ", - «À`ÕViÃ Li>ÕÌvÕ >`VÀ>vÌi` ÌV «À`ÕVÌÃ ÜÌ > ÌÕV v ÕÝÕÀÞ° >V >ÃÌi> «iVi Ã > ÕμÕi ÜÀ v >ÀÌ Ì>Ì VÛiÞÃ ÌÃ Ü `ì ÃÌÀÞ >` ÌÃ Ü iÃÃ>}i] V>ÀÀÞ} Ìi iÃÃiVi v > ÌÀ>`Ì> `}iÕÃ ÌÀLi ÜV ÃÕ` Ì Li vÀ}ÌÌi° >ÃÌi> Ãii Ã Ì «À Ìi >` ViiLÀ>Ìi Ìi Õ Ü ÌÀLiÃ Ì>Ì >Ài «>ÀÌ v ÕÀ ÃÌÀÞ >` iÌV À}Ã] ÌÀ>ÃvÀ } ÌÀ>`Ì> iÌV VÀi>ÌÃ Ì ÕÝÕÀÞ v>Ã Ìi Ã° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°V>ÃÌi>iÌVÀ}Ã°V À V> >i> äÇä xnÇÇÈÈ° Î£° "6 , VÀi>Ìi iÝμÕÃÌi >ì LÀìÀi` Li>V >vÌ>Ã vÀ ÃÌÞi VÃVÕÃ Ü i >` V`Ài° Û>>Li ÃâiÃ ÈÓÓ >` V`Ài½Ã >}i Ó£Ó° } vÀ Ã iÌ} > ÌÌi `vviÀiÌ vÀ ÞÕÀ iÝÌ `>Þ¶ 6ÃÌ ÌiÀ ÜiLÃÌi ÜÜÜ°Li>VVÛiÀ°V À V> ä££n {ä{£Óä vÀ Ài vÀ >Ì° ÎÓ° Ã > v>Ã >Li vÕì` LÞ iì âiÀLi] Ü >` > ÛÃ Ì VÀi>Ìi VÌiÃ vÀ Ü i Ü Ü>Ì Ì ÃÌ>` ÕÌ ivvÀÌiÃÃÞ >` ii}>ÌÞ vÀ Ìi VÀÜ`° iÀ Li>ÕÌvÕ }>À iÌÃ >Ài VÀi>Ìi` ÕÃ} ÌÞi `Þi >` L>Ì ÌiVμÕiÃ] ÀiÃÕÌ} Ì iiÃÃ `>Þ Ü>À`ÀLi «iViÃ Ì>Ì ÞÕ Ü ÌÀi>ÃÕÀi vÀiÛiÀ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°>iìi°V À V> ³ÓÎ{n£ÓÓ£ÓÓ{£n° ÎÎ° -" 7,/ vviÀÃ > V «iÌi LiÃ« i ÃiÀÛVi] «iÀÃ>Þ > } ÞÕÀ iÜiiÀÞ «>ÌÕ >` }` ÕÃ} Ìi wiÃÌ `> `Ã >` }i ÃÌiÃ° >««Ì iÌ ÛÛiÃ ÛiÜ} `> `Ã] > ÃÀÌ ÌÕÀ v Ìi ÜÀ Ã«] >` > ÃÌ `Ü ìÃ} ÃiÃÃ > Ã iÀ iÜi ÃÌÕ` ÜÀ Ã«° Þ >««Ì iÌ Þ° Ì>VÌ äÓä Ç{ä äÈÈxÆ ÃÜiÜiiÀÞ°V Î{° ì-7° iÝμÕÃÌi i v >ÀLLi> ÕÌ/ ÃÜ Üi>À >ì ÜÌ Ûi > LÞ vÕìÀÃ >° >V «iVi Ìi Ý >` >ÌV ì-7 i Ã ìÃ}i` Ì ÀiyiVÌ iÛiÀÞ }À½Ã ii` vÀ ÛiÀÃ>ÌÌÞ° Ã«Ài` LÞ Û>ÀÕÃ VÕÌÕÀiÃ >` Ìi Li>ÕÌÞ vÕ` >ÌÕÀi >` >ÀÌ] ì-7 «iViÃ >Ài Ìiì` Ì Li ÜÀ ÜÌ vit Ý«Ài Ìi ViVÌ >Ì ÜÜÜ°ì-7°V Îx° / / * «ÀÕ`Þ «ÀiÃiÌÃ ÌiÀ }ÌÜi}Ì L>} VÌ>} È iÃÃiÌ> ÌÀ>Ûi Ìi Ã Ì>Ì Ü iÃÕÀi V vÀÌ] Ã>viÌÞ >` ÃiVÕÀÌÞ vÀ >Þ }>« Þi>À ÌÀ>ÛiiÀ° Ì VÕìÃ > xä ÌÀ i>`> «] £ää¯ Ã Ãii«} L>} iÀ] 8 Ãâi ÌÀ>Ûi ÌÜi] V L>Ì V E V>Li] ÕÛiÀÃ> «Õ}] ÈÀ V>À}iÀ vÀ LiÃ] *`Ã E *>`Ã° À Ài vÀ >Ì] Ãii ÜÜÜ°Ìi}iÌ«iV>°V À i > vJÌi}iÌ«iV>°V ÎÈ° *1 /" - ìÃ}Ã] V ÃÃÃ >` «ÕLÃiÃ ÃÌÀ } À}> «ÃÌiÀÃ ÜV V>«ÌÕÀi Ìi i`ÕÀ} >««i> v ÀÌ iV° /iÀ iÜÞV ÃÃi` «ÃÌiÀÃ vi>ÌÕÀi }> ÀÕÃ 7ÌiÀ Ã«ÀÌÃ >` -Õ iÀ ÀiÃÀÌÃ >ÀÕ` Ìi ÜÀ`] >Ã Üi >Ã Ìi ÜÀ`½Ã }Ài>ÌiÃÌ ÃÌÀV >ÕÌ LiÃ° ËÎ x i>V° > äÓä ÇÇÎä äx{Ç À ÛiÜ >` LÕÞ i >Ì ÜÜÜ°«Õ>i`ÌÃ°V ÎÇ° * - *" VÀi>Ìi VÛiÌ>Li VÌi «À>ÀÞ >ÀÌÜÀ ] ÜV Ì> iÃ Ã«À>Ì vÀ Ã}ÌÃ] VÕÀÃ >` VÕÌÕÀiÃ vÀ >ÀÕ` Ìi ÜÀ`° /iÀ LiÃ« i ÃiÀÛVi >ÜÃ ÞÕ Ì VÀi>Ìi Ã iÌ} V «iÌiÞ ÕμÕi vÀ ÞÕÀ i] }Û} >ÃÌ} i ÀiÃ v ÞÕÀ }LiÌÀÌÌ} >`ÛiÌÕÀiÃ° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°«i>Ã>«`°>i À i > vJ«i>Ã>«`°>i vÀ Ài vÀ >Ì°

-- 6 ,/- /1,

/i ÕÝÕÀÞ vÌ Õì°°° VÌÕi` U

t

[«

[|

În° /À>Ûi }Ì°°° LÕÌ `½Ì vÀ}iÌ ÞÕÀ - t 7iÌiÀ Ì½Ã > `>Þ À > Üii i` LÀi> >Ü>Þ] `½Ì vÀ}iÌ Ì «>V ÞÕÀ i>Ì >` Li>ÕÌÞ ÛÌ> `À ° - >ì /À>Ûi «ÀÛìÃ > Ìi LiiwÌÃ v Ìi À}> - >ì vÀ Õ> > VÛiiÌ £x Ã>ViÌ° >V Ã>ViÌ VÌ>Ã Þ`ÀÞÃi` >Ài V>}i] i}> Î >` È] -] ÛÌ> ] ÞÃi >` V «iÝ ÛÌ> Ã > ÀivÀiÃ} «i>V >` >}ÃÌii y>ÛÕÀ] ÜÌ Þ Îx V>ÀiÃ° - «Þ >`` - >ì /À>Ûi Ì > }>ÃÃ v Ü>ÌiÀ] `À >` }° ËÎÎ vÀ £ä Ã>ViÌÃ] Ã>ì°V Î° ÌμÕi 6VÌÀ> >` À>ViiÌ *>À vÀ 188", 6 / Æ > i ÛÌ>}i iÜiiÀÞ LÕÌμÕi Ã«iV>Ã} 6VÌÀ>] ÀÌ iV >` ` iÌÕÀÞ iÜiiÀÞ° /i VÌÕÕÃÞ ÀÌ>Ì} ViVÌ vi>ÌÕÀiÃ >ÕÌiÌV >ÌμÕi «iViÃ ViVÌi` vÀ >ÀÕ` Ìi }Li° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°188",6Ì>}i°V À i > vJ188",6Ì>}i°V vÀ >Û>>Li Ìi Ã° {ä° , ] Ã«Ài` LÞ >ÕÌ À] Ã Ìi }Õ>À>Ìii v ÕμÕi iÝ«iÀÌÃi Üi > } >` Li`}° /Ã v> Þ v }Ài>Ì ÌÀ>`Ì> ÜiÃ vÀ Àì>ÕÝ] >ì LÞ i}ÃÌÃ vÀ >i >ÀiVi ] Ã>ÀiÃ > ÕμÕi ÃÌÞi] L>>Vi] ii}>Vi >` V «iÝÌÞ° }i` Vi>ÀÃ >` Ã` Þ Üi ÌiÞ vÕÞ iÝ«ÀiÃÃ ÌiÀ μÕ>ÌiÃ >` V> Li i`>ÌiÞ iÞi`] Ìi ÜiÃ iÛiÀÌiiÃÃ `Ã«>Þ }` Vi>À} «ÌiÌ>° Û>>Li >Ì >ÀÀ`Ã] ,,* Ë£ ° x° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°V>Àiìi°V {£° 9*- i LìÃ Ìi iÃÃiVi v >ÌÕÀi «ÀÌ° /i >Li½Ã iÝVÕÃÛi L`] ÛLÀ>Ì >` iViVÌV ìÃ}Ã LÌ Ã«Ài >` V>«ÌÛ>Ìi° /i iÜ *>À>`Ãi ViVÌ Ã Ã«Ài` LÞ ÃÌÕ}] >ÌÕÀ> }i}V> vÀ >ÌÃ >` `ÃÌ>Ì ÜÀ`Ã° 6ÃÌ ÜÜÜ°}Þ«Ãi>°V°>Õ À i > vJ}Þ«Ãi>°V°>Õ {Ó° Ã «>ÃÃ vÀ VÀi>Ì} >ÀÌÃÌV iÜiiÀÞ «iÀviVÌi` ÛiÀ Ìi Þi>ÀÃ ÀiÃÕÌi` -/<" 7 ,9 q > LÀ>` Ì>Ì VÀi>ÌiÃ iÝÌÀ>À`>ÀÞ >ÃÌiÀ«iViÃ Ã«Ài` LÞ >ViÌ VÕÌÕÀiÃ] >ÌÕÀi >` Ûi vÀ vi i ÃiÝÕ>ÌÞ° 7iLÃÌi ÜÜÜ°>>ÃÌ>âiÜiiÀÞ°V À i > vJ>>ÃÌ>âiÜiiÀÞ°V

[

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move... To a Snow Adventure

A hotel is just somewhere to sleep? The luxury suite hotel FIREFLY in Zermatt begs to differ. This four star superior hotel tempts you to stay in during the day, with luxurious suites based on the elements, Water, Fire, Air, and Earth. www.firefly-zermatt.ch

6580 ST. CHRISTOPH AM ARLBERG AUSTRIA +43(0) 5446 2804 [email protected]

WWW.MAIENSEE.COM

Tel: +41 (0) 27 967 76 76

Catered & Self Catered Tailored Holidays

Exclusively in Sainte Foy in the French Alps www.premiere-neige.com

destination pamper off piste Why not give those muscles a break from skiing one afternoon and indulge in a massage or pedicure in the comfort of your chalet. We have over 10 years of experience bringing clients rejuvenating treatments by professional, polite and punctual therapists. Your destination is our destination. t: +44 (0)7950 038353 e: [email protected] w: destinationpamper.com The perfect place to make the most of the French Alps in a magical setting on the edge of an authentic tranquil village with breathtaking panoramic views. At the gateway to the vast Portes du Soleil alpine ski area, other activities include snowshoe trekking, husky sledding, ice driving, crosscountry skiing, and ski-joering with ponies, spa pampering. Chalet Châtelet promises a very warm welcome, luxury accommodation, excellent meals made from fresh local and organic ingredients in a convivial atmosphere with log fire, indoor sauna, outdoor hot tub & in-house massage. www.chalet-chatelet.com +33 (0) 4 50 73 69 48

Val d’Isere Meribel Courchevel Morzine


To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

On The Move... To a Villa Retreat

SORRENTO tel. + 39 081 877 7111 [email protected] www.excelsiorvittoria.com

Il Cortile Pratolino

Luxury Villa & Spa Costa Brava 10 minutes from the sea Accommodates up to 28

Ideal for big families, groups of friends, corporate retreats, weddings and events

0034 619 101 194 – www.mastorroella.com - SPAIN

25 years of experience renting hand-picked villas in Tuscany

+44 207 684 8884

tuscanynow.com


On The Move... To a Villa Retreat INCREDIBLE VILLAS

Distinctive Holiday Rentals in Europe, Morocco and Thailand Discover Corsica Order our new 2015 brochure

[email protected] Tel: +44 (0) 1423 330533 www.ppaproperties.com

FRANCE • ITALY • SPAIN • CARIBBEAN It’s not just what we know, it’s who we know. Every villa hand-picked by experts. Deep local knowledge and devilishly good value.

0845 330 2060

Corsica.co.uk ATOL 1866 | ABTA V5963

01242 787 800 Handpicked

www.redsavannah.com

villas

Tuscany LQ

$IDPLO\UXQDJHQF\(VW 6HOIFDWHULQJSURSHUWLHVZLWKSRROV 3HUVRQDOORFDONQRZOHGJH )5((&RQFLHUJH6HUYLFH

Invitation to tuscany

020 8444 9500

ZZZLQYLWDWLRQWRWXVFDQ\FRP

YOUR HOME AWAY FROM HOME Suites: Jl. Sarinande 19, Seminyak – Bali Villas: Jl. Sari Dewi 17, Seminyak – Bali Website: www.villakresna.com Email: [email protected] Phone: +62 361 730317 Fax: +62 361 732847

www.beyondspacesvillas.com T: ++ 357 22021156

ATOL 10454

Villas, apartments & hotels

PRIVATE PROPERTIES ABROAD


On The Move... To a Villa Retreat

On The Move... To The Caribbean Romance and tranquility


bucuti.com

BARBADOS

A collection of only the highest quality luxury villas, available to rent directly from their owners in Europe, Caribbean and more iconic destinations. A private club of owners with rates lower than anywhere else and 24/7 concierge service.

www.myprivatevillas.com [email protected]

LITTLE ARCHES BOUTIQUE HOTEL

Fond Doux Resort & Plantation A stunning 19th century French colonial resort in Soufriere, St. Lucia. www.fonddouxestate.com Tel: 1-758-459-7545

This award-winning boutique hotel is nestled on a hideaway bay adjacent to a flawless white sand beach. The adult-only property features intimate, al fresco dining in our rooftop restaurant Cafe Luna. Personalized service, understated style and romance will define your stay at Little Arches. Tel: 1-(246) 420 4689 Fax: 1-(246) 418 0207 Email: [email protected] Web: www.littlearches.com

RESORT & SPA

DISCOVER SAINT LUCIA’S PREMIER COUPLES RESORT...

Natural Elegance Understated Sophistication

www.tikaye.com

Located on a secluded beach. The ideal venue for a wedding. Your private boutique villa! www.srivillas.com

Sri Lanka

[email protected]

1.758.456.8101

Saint Lucia W.I.


On The Move... To Mexico LUXURY IN THE MAYAN WORLD

5

YEARS MAKING A DIFFERENCE

YUCATÁN - MÉXICO rosasandxocolate.com A MEMBER OF DESIGN HOTELS

TM

Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico www.villascarrizalillo.com [email protected]

Shambala Petit Hotel is located on the beautiful South Beach of Tulum, Mexico. With endless white sandy beaches, the property features ten unique casitas, and is also the ideal yoga retreat. www.shambalapetithotel.com [email protected]



On The Move...

Eagles Nest…..Somewhere between seven stars and heaven fitel city, So t of the e star five the hear r fiv the othe canals in g st on de ol am two gem een the is a true ed betw atte sterdam Locca and Am risian d The Gr gend ge eg Le s, the Pa nt Bridge tler tels. with Bu Restaura s luxury ho ar ite st su uding Michelin en, the SPA incl claimed ner gard So ac in l e e te th at ho e to e priv xury It is hom inning lu Bistro, th award-w Le Petit themed multiple – d to the an e ic the city Serv past of e hamam. with the lty to th pool and entwined h Admira ly tc x, ep Du ri de at to d is ss Be ings an ce dg Gr in lo e pr l ya ory of Th er queen, eryone ent to ro The hist d’s form duce ev tury conv etherlan e and se 15th-cen where N captivat from a history sterdam ch Am ri a of l and City Hal . Poetry in 1966 married hotel. ting the into visi

Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, 1012 EX AMSTERDAM Tel. +31 (0)20 555 3 111 - E-mail. : H2783@sofitel.com - Find us on

All Inclusive Luxury Catamarans From £1,000 per person per week Sailing the Caribbean

www.blueplanetyachtcharters.co.uk [email protected] UK +44 (0)1233 226 300

BelHorizon Seychelles

BelHorizonSeychelles self-catering private Residence on the island of Mahe in the Seychelles provides you with your home-away-from-home comforts. Tastefully decorated, it is fully equipped, comfortable, affordable, with direct access to the beach. Call: +248 2520061

www.belhorizonseychelles.com

EAT, DRINK, LOVE... Sicily and its Aeolian Islands... Unique 7 night, 6 day gastronomical adventures including cooking lessons, vineyard tours, exploring volcanoes, sailing its shores and much, much more! Personalised trips for small groups from 4 to 10 people or day long adventures for those wishing to travel independently. www.aeolianadventures.co.uk Tel: 07704 136539

Mountain retreat Nebesa in Slovenia is an architectural gem, complimenting its stunning location. It is a fusion of modern and traditional design, boasting unreplicable views that will take your breath away. www.nebesa.si/en/ Tel: +386 (0)5 38 44 620 GSM: +386 41 769 484 [email protected]

COMING NEXT MONTH

IN THE USA: The Condé Nast Publications Inc. Chairman: S.I. Newhouse, Jr. CEO: Charles H. Townsend President: Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr. Editorial Director: Thomas J. Wallace Artistic Director: Anna Wintour

January issue on sale 1 December

IN OTHER COUNTRIES: Condé Nast International Ltd. Chairman and Chief Executive: Jonathan Newhouse President: Nicholas Coleridge Vice Presidents: Giampaolo Grandi, James Woolhouse and Moritz von Laffert President, Asia-Pacific: James Woolhouse President, New Markets: Carol Cornuau Director of Licenses, New Markets: Natascha von Laffert President and Editorial Director, Brand Development: Karina Dobrotvorskaya Vice President & Senior Editor, Brand Development: Anna Harvey Director of Planning: Jason Miles Director of Talent: Thomas Bucaille Director of Acquisitions and Investments: Moritz von Laffert GLOBAL: Condé Nast E-commerce Division President: Franck Zayan The Condé Nast Group of Magazines includes: USA Vogue, Architectural Digest, Glamour, Brides, Self, GQ, Vanity Fair, Bon Appétit, CN Traveler, Allure, Wired, Lucky, Teen Vogue, The New Yorker, W, Details, Golf Digest, Golf World UK Vogue, House & Garden, Brides & Setting up Home, Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ, Vanity Fair, CN Traveller, Glamour, Condé Nast Johansens, GQ Style, Love, Wired FRANCE Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections, GQ, AD Collector, Vanity Fair, Vogue Travel in France, GQ Le Manuel du Style ITALY Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Glamour, Vogue Gioiello, Vogue Sposa, AD, CN Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, GQ Style, Wired, Vogue Accessory, Myself, La Cucina Italiana GERMANY Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Myself, Wired SPAIN Vogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Vogue Niños, Sposabella, CN Traveler, Vogue Colecciones, Vogue Belleza, Glamour, Sposabella Portugal, AD, Vanity Fair JAPAN Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding TAIWAN Vogue, GQ RUSSIA Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Tatler, CN Traveller, Allure MEXICO AND LATIN AMERICA Vogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico and Latin America, AD Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America INDIA Vogue, GQ, CN Traveller, AD Published under Joint Venture: BRAZIL Published by Edições Globo Condé Nast S.A.Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour, GQ Style SPAIN Published by Ediciones Conelpa, S.L: S Moda Published under License: AUSTRALIA Published by NewsLifeMedia: Vogue, Vogue Living, GQ BULGARIA Published by S Media Team Ltd.: Glamour CHINA Published under copyright cooperation by China Pictorial: Vogue, Vogue Collections. Published by IDG: Modern Bride Published under copyright cooperation by Women of China: Self, AD, CN TravelerPublished under copyright cooperation by China News Service: GQ, GQ Style CZECH REPUBLIC AND SLOVAKIA Published by CZ s.r.o: La Cucina Italiana GERMANY Published by Piranha Media GmbH: La Cucina Italiana HUNGARY Published by Axel Springer-Budapest Kiadói Kft: Glamour KOREA Published by Doosan Magazine: Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Allure, W, GQ Style MIDDLE EAST Published by Arab Publishing Partners EZ-LLC: CN Traveller THE NETHERLANDS Published by G + J Nederland: Glamour, Vogue Published by F&L Publishing Group B.V.La Cucina Italiana POLAND Published by Burda International Polska: Glamour PORTUGAL Published by Edirevistas Sociedade de Publicações, S.A: Vogue, GQ ROMANIA Published by MediaFax Group S.A: Glamour, GQ SOUTH AFRICA Published by Condé Nast Independent Magazines (Pty) Ltd House & Garden, GQ, Glamour, House & Garden Gourmet, GQ Style THAILAND Published by Serendipity Media Co. Ltd: Vogue TURKEY Published by Dog˘us Media Group: Vogue, GQ Published by MC Basim Yayin Reklam Hizmetleri Tic. LTD La Cucina Italiana UKRAINE Published by Publishing House UMH LLC: Vogue Printed by The Artisan Press. Published by the proprietors, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Condé Nast Traveller is distributed by Condé Nast & National Magazine Distributors Ltd (Comag), Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE (tel: 01895 433600). Managing Director: Mike Mirams

SOUTH PACIFIC

OUR PICK OF THE TOP PLACES TO STAY

CATSKILLS: FROM KITSCH TO COOL THE NEW VIENNA SECRET SAFARI IN TANZANIA STAR SKI CHALETS

SUBSCRIBE NOW AT WWW.MAGAZINEBOUTIQUE.CO.UK HOTHE TE TO LS P FA IN M TH IL EU Y K

GR FO EEK R FA ISLA M ND ILIE S S

INSIDER MOROCCO

READERS’ TRAVEL AWARDS 2014

THE WORLD’S BEST

THE LOWDOWN ON OUR FAVOURITE SECRET HOTSPOTS

ISLANDS +AIRLINES +CITIES + SPAS +VILLAS

GREAT WEEKENDS

WHERE TO STAY RIGHT NOW

MORE THAN 40 HOTEL REVIEWS INSIDE

ITALY BURGUNDY LONG ISLAND BRUGES

WEEKEND FIXES

EXCLUSIVE FIRST REVIEW

STYLISH EUROPEAN APARTMENTS TO RENT

IS THIS THE BEST HOTEL IN PARIS?

TRENDWATCH

EXCLUSIVE FIRST LOOK

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LODGE IN AFRICA

ON HOLIDAY WITH

EDDIE REDMAYNE SOPHIE DAHL STANLEY TUCCI

205 October 2014 Readers’ Travel Awards 2014 Sag Harbor Le Marche Burgundy Jamaica Bruges

+TREEHOUSES + +VOODOO + +COLDWATER SURFING +

COSTA RICA’S NEW GROOVE THE COOLEST PLACES TO STAY IN THE JUNGLE AND ON THE BEACH

206 November 2014 Costa Rica Nambia Fez European apartments Norway Leipzig Dublin

HAVE YOU MISSED AN ISSUE?

To order past copies call 01858 438819 or write to Condé Nast Traveller, Back Issues, Tower House, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire LE16 9EF, enclosing a cheque (no debit cards or cash accepted) payable to The Condé Nast Publications Ltd. Back issues cost £9.50 per copy within the UK and £15 overseas (please note that not all issues are available). Please state the date of each issue required.

NEW THIS MONTH ONLINE

Chase the winter sun Hundreds of hot destinations Sensational spa breaks Find the right retreat for you The best of the UK Plan a weekend adventure Something’s brewing Our top afternoon teas in London PLUS European villas to book now for next summer


VIEW WITH A ROOM WHERE ARE WE? BALI LOOKING AT SANDAT GLAMPING TENTS WHY WE LOVE IT The sandat is a fragrant flower collected by the Balinese to fill their daily offering baskets to the

PHOTOGRAPH: STEFANO SCATA

deities. It’s also the name Italian owners Federico Carrer and Emanuela Padoan gave to their dream house: a low-key eco-resort built by local craftsmen on what was, just a year ago, a rice paddy. Sandat Glamping Tents is in Pejeng Kawan, about an hour from the capital, Denpasar. Arrival is by Jeep, down a rugged dirt road; Buddha is present at the gates. A vaulted bamboo structure is surrounded by five safari-style tents and three lumbungs – traditional thatched cottages – all fitted out with eclectic, hand-made furnishings chosen by Emanuela. Each tent has a private pool, perfect for lazy afternoons spent contemplating the jungle below. The beds and bathrooms are marvellous, as is (whisper it) the Wi-Fi coverage. The pace is languid, and you may not care to venture farther afield than Ubud – just 10 minutes away – to visit the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, have a massage or eat at one of the many excellent restaurants, including Ibu Rai, Warung Pulau Kelapa and the Clear Cafe, which serves some of the most original smoothies you’ll find anywhere. Sandat is a place to unravel, clear your mind and drink in the Balinese lifestyle – no group yoga here. Instead, there are visits to artisans, local festivals and introductions to everyday, street-level delights. Ask Tengo, the resident host, for a lesson in making your own offering basket, to show the gods your appreciation. SHARLA AULT Pejeng Kawan, Ubud, Bali (+62 821 4408 1998; www.glampingsandat.com). From about £140, including breakfast


PLEASE TURN THE PAGE TO VIEW SUPPLEMENT

ROME ATHENS STOCKHOLM ST PETERSBURG BURMA VIETNAM CAMBODIA BORDEAUX VANCOUVER

ALASKA BERGEN NEW YORK ANTARCTICA GALAPAGOS MALDIVES ZAMBEZI INDONESIA MONTE CARLO

PERU KERALA JAPAN CARIBBEAN SOUTH KOREA THE NILE THE MEDITERRANEAN TAHITI

THE ULTIMATE

CRUISE GUIDE

SAIL INTO A NEW PERSPECTIVE

For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0845 835 0069, visit Silversea.com or contact your local travel agent.

SEE THE WORLD THROUGH DIFFERENT EYES For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0845 835 0069, visit Silversea.com/expeditions or contact your local travel agent.

BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS It’s not just our choice of over 270 handpicked global destinations that will inspire, entice and enthral. On board, you’ll find half an acre of freshly cut grass lawn, blissful serenity at our world-famous Canyon Ranch SpaClub®, live entertainment and many a gastronomic delight such as sushi lollipops and lobster escargot. For a holiday like no other, broaden your horizons on a Celebrity cruise.

Visit celebritycruises.co.uk/CondeNast Call 0844 481 7694 Contact your travel agent @CELEBRITYUK

Winner of 10 awards, including best from the UK, Celebrity Eclipse®

UKCELEBRITYCRUISES

CELEBRITYCRUISESUK

here’s an argument that the best way to see the world is by boat. A large liner has all the foodie and cultural attractions of a compact but stylish city, while a smaller ship allows you to remain in touch with the water, to know by the pleasing bob and lilt of the deck that you are on a voyage of adventure. Either way, a cruise sets you in proper motion, plus you get to enjoy every port of call without the tiresome, time-consuming packing and unpacking, of checking in and out and in again… There are parts of the planet that you will never see unless you take to the water, among them the Alaskan coastline (p10) and the ragged white fringe of Antarctica (p34). A wine-tasting tour by car is completely self-defeating, but it is a joy if you do it, as we did, by following the course of three rivers through Bordeaux (p26). The Norwegian fjords (p32), Burma (p18) and Cambodia (p38) are all places that you can’t know fully if you stick to dry land. But more than this, on a cruise you have a real-world sense of distance travelled, something that aeroplanes have rendered almost extinct. You might get a similar feeling on an epic train journey – but then you wouldn’t be able to stand at the stern in the moonlight and gaze at your trailing wake.

EDITOR: MELINDA STEVENS PUBLISHER: SIMON LEADSFORD MANAGING DIRECTOR: NICHOLAS COLERIDGE Cruise Editor: Sarah Spankie Managing Editor: Paula Maynard Art Director: Pete Winterbottom Director of Photography: Caroline Metcalfe Deputy Art Director: Paula Ellis Art Editor: Jon-Paul Pezzolo Photographic Production Matthew Buck Picture Editor: Karin Mueller Chief Sub-Editor: Rick Jordan Deputy Sub-Editor: Christy Ward Senior Sub-Editor: Gráinne McBride Sub-Editor: Davydd Chong Associate Publisher: Juliette Ottley Advertisement Director: Erica Wong Senior Account Manager: Natalie Fenton Senior Account & Promotions Manager: Amy Cole Promotions Director: Victoria Higgins Promotions Creative Director: Lee Osborne Promotions Co-ordinator: Kendra Leaver Production Controller: Dawn Crosby Acting Production Co-ordinator: Sarah Isle Copyright © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Printed in the UK by The Artisan Press Ltd. Colour origination by CLX Europe Media Solution Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The title Condé Nast Traveller is registered at US Patent Office and in Great Britain as a trademark. All prices correct at time of going to press but subject to change. The Mail Order Protection Scheme does not cover items featured editorially. Not to be sold separately from Condé Nast Traveller

INFORMATION IS CORRECT AT TIME OF GOING TO PRESS. FACILITIES AND SERVICES DESCRIBED, AND PRICES QUOTED, MAY HAVE CHANGED BY THE TIME OF PUBLICATION.

December 2014 Cruise Guide 3

BEST FOR TIME TRAVEL

THE nile

EGYPT’S MIGHTY RIVER HAS MORE BOATS THAN THERE ARE ANCIENT GODS – SO CHOOSE WISELY, SAYS ANTHONY SATTIN. PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES BEDFORD

4 Cruise Guide December 2014

I

woke to the sound of song. Not of birds but a farmer serenading his water buffalo as he milked her. Up on deck, a pied kingfisher perching on a railing watched me eat breakfast, while I in turn observed a man in a small, patched-up boat beating the water with his oar to scare fish into his net. When we cast off, there was a creaking of ropes as we sailed very slowly upstream, past palms, mango trees and tall bulrushes, to a place named Nekhab. You could be forgiven for not knowing about Nekhab, even though it was one of Egypt’s oldest and most important cities, the capital of the south before the pyramids were built. Nekhab, now El Kab, dropped off the tourist circuit long ago. But the city remains – or, at least, you can still view the great outer wall, temple ruins and some tombs – and its existence highlights a problem in exploring the Nile. Nekhab is 80 miles south of Luxor, on the busiest part of the river. The stretch between Luxor and Aswan is less than 140 miles in length, but is travelled by 300 cruise ships. Add to that the dozens of dahabiyas – multi-cabin sailing boats – and scores of single-sailed feluccas that are also licensed to carry people on this trip of a lifetime, and it is easy to see why choosing the right Nile cruise can be a nightmare. The problem is compounded by the fact that most four- or fivenight itineraries involve no more than two nights on the river; the others are spent tied up, often in rows of 10 ships, in Luxor or Aswan. Most cruises also include the same sights between those two places – the temples at Esna, Edfu and Kom Ombo – which makes the ultimate decision a question of style and cost. The smartest boats on the river are run by two rivals. The Oberoi Zahra and Sanctuary Sun Boat III are both plush, exclusive and slickly run. Their chefs serve accomplished international and Egyptian cuisine, the bar staff mix a decent Martini, and there are dip pools on deck. Guests are taken on excursions in small groups, and the Egyptologists know how to make sense of the sights. Less expensive, but with a unique history, is the SS Sudan, a refurbished paddle steamer that was running long before Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile. These three boats have between 18 and 27 cabins; some of the larger (cheaper) Nile cruisers can carry as many as 140 passengers. But if, like me, you prefer to travel at a gentler pace, to spend more time on the river and see more sights along the way, you need to board a dahabiya, and there are none better than the boats operated by Nour el Nil. With their large, canvas-covered top deck, en-suite cabins and downstairs salon, these are the vessels that carried Grand Tourists along the Nile in the 19th century. Even the biggest examples have room for no more than 20 people. Dahabiyas move slowly, usually spend four or five days travelling, and are able to moor in places that the bigger cruisers cannot. Which is how I woke to the sound of a farmer singing and then walked around the massive mudbrick walls of the ancient city of Nekhab. From there, I climbed to see ancient tombs etched with less-ancient graffiti left by 19th-century travellers. For a moment, the intervening years seemed to disappear, something worth celebrating in the dark and silence of that night, moored alongside another stretch of farmland.

SAIL AWAY A four- or seven-night cruise on the Oberoi Zahra (www.oberoihotels. com) starts from about £340 per person per night. Three or four nights on the Sanctuary Sun Boat III (www.sanctuaryretreats.com) start from about £255 per person per night. A three- or four-night trip on the SS Sudan (www.steam-ship-sudan.com) starts from about £525 per person. Five nights on a Nour el Nil dahabiya (www.nourelnil.com) starts from about £860 per person. All prices include full board, excursions and transfers, and are based on two people sharing. Every spring and autumn, Anthony Sattin leads a 12-day trip to Egypt, including Cairo, Luxor, Aswan and five nights on a dahabiya (email [email protected]).

BEST FOR ISLAND ADDICTS

T

here is no really sensible way to island-hop in the most distant South Pacific, except by boat. My first journey there was improvised: cargo ships; slow, listing inter-island steamers; islanders’ leaky homemade speedboats. But once you have drunk the elixir of arrival – berthing at a jetty where there’s no airstrip, approaching the islands slowly and seeing a far smudge rearrange itself into a needlesharp snapshot of palms and lagoon or the extravagant majesty of a jungle-coated ancient volcano – you also marry romance to practicality in a mysteriously addictive way. I have been back to the South Seas half a dozen times since that first trip. Flying there is as forgettable as air travel should be; the boat journeys I have made are indelible. That was how it felt too when I recently returned to Polynesia to watch the astronomical transit of Venus aboard the sleek MS Paul Gauguin. Compactly proportioned, it carries 332 passengers and 6 Cruise Guide December 2014

has only a 17ft draught, having been designed specifically for the shallow Pacific island waters. Opposite in every way to my first improvised expedition, the Paul Gauguin is an effortlessly comfortable ship, the most luxurious of Polynesia’s cruising options. It sails the hot, lazy Society Islands of French Polynesia, sometimes also taking in the Cook Islands, year-round. All the cabins have those Yves Klein-blue Pacific Ocean views; almost three-quarters of the staterooms have floor-length windows and balconies that make every landfall look like a scene out of the eponymous musical. Our trajectory, Papeete to Raiatea to the vanilla-growing Taha’a, Bora Bora and Moorea, presented plenty of Society Island facets: the sophisticated (and sometimes very provincial) French, the wild and practically uninhabited, the languid Polynesian. One advantage of the cruise, from a traveller’s point of view, is that Taha’a cannot be visited at all other than by boat. Just as importantly – because a true understanding of a place depends on seeing how its components and its moods connect and compare – travelling by boat is a philosophical matter, as writers from Joseph Conrad to Jonathan Raban have always known. In Polynesia particularly, the islands, preserved by their deep remoteness in four million square kilometres of ocean, worlds apart and acutely other, should really only be seen that way. Julian Evans is the author of ‘Transit of Venus: Travels in the Pacific’ (Eland, £12.99)

SAIL AWAY MS Paul Gauguin offers week-long Tahiti and Society Islands trips year-round. Bridge & Wickers (+44 20 3411 0711; www.bridgeandwickers. co.uk) has departures from Tahiti on 14, 21 and 28 February 2015 from £5,095 per person

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN MORRELL; ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG

REVISITING POLYNESIA, JULIAN EVANS SETS SAIL ON A SHIP PURPOSE-BUILT TO WEAVE ITS WAY THROUGH THE SHALLOWS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTIN MORRELL & ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG

LIBERATE

at sea

YOUR EXPECTATIONS • SPACE • FREEDOM • ELEGANCE

TRUE LUXURY IS INTANGIBLE

WWW.RSSC.COM | 023 8068 2159

BEST FOR A ROCKY COLOUR SHOW

AUST RALIA

MARK MCCRUM GOES WILD ON A SPIRITED ADVENTURE THROUGH THE BEAUTIFULLY BARREN KIMBERLEY REGION


of this adventure. On sea days, cocktails around the tiny pool on the back sundeck started after breakfast. The international staff and crew looked after us and our cosy little cabins beautifully. Why hadn’t I drunk the Champagne in my fridge, my ever-smiling Thai butler Cristina asked me. I didn’t need to, on a ship where all drinks were free.

SAIL AWAY Silversea (+44 844 251 0837; www.silversea. com) offers a 10-day voyage along the Kimberley coast departing on 9 April 2015 from £6,550 per person sharing an Explorer Suite, including excursions, onboard gratuities and drinks

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW HALSALL; ALEX NICOL; NICK RAINS; STEVE STRIKE/IMAGEBRIEF

T

he Silversea concept is appealingly simple: high-end cruising combined with the excitement of expeditioning in remote places. Spend nights aboard the Silver Discoverer by having cocktails in the Explorer Lounge and dinner at The Restaurant or under the stars at The Grill; by day, rise early to get as close as possible to landscape and wildlife in Zodiacs piloted by knowledgeable staff. Australia’s north-west Kimberley region is the ideal candidate for this treatment: a huge and beautiful wilderness three times the size of England, where visible striations in the orange cliffs are 1.8 billion years old. We sailed from the sun-baked old pearling port of Broome east and north to Darwin, passing headlands, bays, rivers and waterfalls named by – and for – early-19th-century British explorers and their patrons: Collier Bay and Prince Regent River, King Cascade and Montague Sound. Not much had changed. On a giant baobab tree in lonely Careening Bay the sailors’ carving of ‘Mermaid 1820’ looked almost new. Aboriginal people once roamed among these eucalypts, acacias and mangroves. In Swift Bay, a walk of 50 yards brought us to rock paintings that dated back between 5,000 and 17,000 years of birds, fish, turtles, humans and Windjana, terrifying mouthless god-spirits. Not a living soul out here now. Just exotic Antipodean wildlife: kangaroos and rock wallabies, brahminy kites and white-bellied sea eagles, manta rays and three-foot lizards, and the mudslipper, a fish that can climb trees. And, of course, saltwater crocodiles, warming themselves on the mudflats, jaws open to reveal fearsome teeth in pinky-yellow mouths. The 120 mainly Australian guests were enthusiastic in their enjoyment of all aspects

seabourn.co.uk

0843 373 2000

Intimate ships with no more than 229 suites Spacious all-suite accommodations Tipping is neither expected nor required Award-winning gourmet dining Complimentary open bars and fine wines Complimentary champagne and in-suite bar

Ships’ registry: Bahamas. © 2014 Seabourn.

BEST FOR WHITE-KNUCKLE RIDES

Alaska

PHOTOGRAPHS: JEREMY KORESKI

PENNY FURNISS PADDLES, TREKS AND SPEEDS HER WAY THROUGH THE WILDERNESS ON A TRIP WITH REAL BITE


W

e were almost at the end of the Glacier Point Wilderness Safari, an excursion on our Holland America cruise to Alaska, when the guide broke the bad news. ‘There’s a problem with one of our boats and I’d like nine volunteers to stay behind until we can return to pick you up.’ While others moved with surprising agility to claim a seat on the working boats, nine of us were left – bow-legged, on sticks, overloaded with cameras, or dressed in Barbie pink – contemplating our survival skills. We had powerboated up the Lynn Canal, past pine forests, cascading waterfalls, the spume of a humpback whale and bald eagles gathering to swoop for salmon, to where the blackness of the Pacific meets the sage-green meltwater of the glacier. We had landed on the gravel shore, trekked through fern-footed spruce and settled into canoes, then paddled up calm, silty waters to the foot of the Davidson Glacier. We had seen the shrieking blue streaks in the mayhem of ice as it flowed like a river in spate, then tipped into the waters below. Now, sated with marvels, we waited to go home. To kill time, the unflappable guides, who live here in summer, led us across a meadow studded with lupins and columbine, carrying a picnic of home-smoked salmon and spruce-tip beer. It was only when we were farthest from safety that a grizzly bear was spotted moving, with appalling nonchalance, across our path. I felt the fear experienced by the imperilled

‘YOU CAN RETREAT TO THE OBSERVATION DECK AND ORDER A HEFT Y GIN’ gazelle on the coverless plain. ‘He knows we’re here,’ said the guide, ‘but he has an endless supply of salmon to catch, so we’re safe.’ You can tour coastal Alaska by sea or by air, but not overland. We had arrived on the 959cabin cruiser Zuiderdam, sailing north from Vancouver through the Inside Passage, a sea channel between mainland Canada and an orderly fleet of islands protecting the coast from the vast Pacific tides and weather systems. There are bigger or smaller ships – you can sail yourself if you have time – but a cruise is the most viable option, and with 140 years behind it, Holland America is the expert. Initially, the flood of humanity boarding the ship seemed likely to overwhelm it. As Tannoy announcements rang out – ‘Ping-pang-PONG!’ – a mood of apprehension overtook me. But by nightfall, the hordes had dispersed into the vessel’s various bays and rockpools: bars, restaurants, promenade decks, the casino, spa, hydro-pool, gym or the library.

Should you want it, entertainment is plentiful: Dancing with the Stars at Sea; US comedian Brian Bradley; show host Joel in the Northern Lights nightclub; a $15,000 Red Hot Jackpot Bingo; a piano-bar entertainer and assorted guitarists, singers and classical duets. Alternatively, you can retreat to the observation deck and order a hefty shot of gin. A self-service buffet, with its upbeat staff, serves most dishes; 24-hour room service and a range of themed restaurants are also available. I would recommend paying the supplement for the steak and seafood at the intimate Pinnacle Grill. My stateroom was compactly furnished like a private hospital room: comfortable bed, neatly arranged desk, sofa, table, tiny bathroom and viewing veranda with cane chairs and a supply of woollen deck blankets. The passengers included sizeable groups from China, raucous parties from Australia and rock-steady pairs from Yorkshire, but, mainly, American couples. Many of them were on romantic dates, second or third marriages or, in some other way, not going gentle into that good night. We sailed north into a Turner painting, docking at Juneau, in whose small library I was surprised to find first editions of British poets such as Larkin and MacNeice, and five copies of The Canterbury Tales. I chose an expertly guided whale-watching trip; others took

a seaplane over the Juneau Icefield or hiked the Mendenhall Glacier. We made steady progress up the coast, arriving at Skagway, the Klondike Gold Rush town where our Wilderness Safari would begin. Other excursions include riding the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad, mushing a dog sled, hiking through Denver Valley, ziplining over Grizzly Falls or being cheerfully fleeced on the Ghosts and Goodtime Girls Historical Walking Tour, maybe acquiring a fur bikini for about £45. After the famous salmon-fishing port of Ketchikan, our northernmost destination was Glacier Bay National Park. Rangers boarded at 6am and offered an informed commentary as the ship processed down a succession of black icy spires and spotless peaks, interspersed with glaciers whose grandeur was as humbling and uplifting as the nave of an English cathedral.

SAIL AWAY Titan (+44 800 988 5873; www.titantravel.co.uk) offers Holland America’s 18-day Deluxe Alaskan Voyage and Rocky Mountaineer cruise from £3,649 per person (based on two sharing), including seven nights on the MS Noordam, nine nights’ hotel accommodation, two nights on the Rocky Mountaineer, flights, most meals, excursions and transfers. The Glacier Point Wilderness Safari was organised by Alaska Expeditions (www.alaskaexcursions.com)

BEST FOR FAST LIVING

lisbon to rome

T

he selection of onshore excursions offered by the Crystal Serenity on its Artistic Reflections voyage is vast: nights at the opera, private cooking classes at Michelin-starred restaurants, voluntourism, vineyard visits, panoramic cable-car rides. My first choice is a private motorboat transfer to Italy’s ostentatious Amalfi Coast. Our boat, the 14-metre Princess Valeri, slices through the shimmering azure Tyrrhenian and drops us at Positano. I meander the narrow streets that ascend the hillside, stopping in at numerous handmade-sandal boutiques and art galleries, and take in the panoramic view from the balcony on Via Cristoforo Colombo. The gleaming dome of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta glints in the sunshine below, like snake scales spraypainted gold, blue and red. I have been truly La Dolce Vita’d. I try a dramatic change of pace for my next excursion. Monaco Grand Prix tickets are notoriously difficult to come by, but Crystal Cruises passengers can gain access to the most glamorous F1 venue on the planet when the ship drops anchor in the principality on race weekend. My seat is on Quai Albert 1er, right in the heart of the port, facing the glitterati

in their procession of superyachts. As the cars rattle through the tiny streets of Monte Carlo, the cacophony is almost overwhelming and the speed astonishing. If you have the stamina, after-party tickets can also be arranged, so you can even rub shoulders with Nico Rosberg and Lewis Hamilton. There is a through-the-night shuttle service from ship to shore. The Crystal Serenity is shamelessly foodie: there’s Silk Road and The Sushi Bar, which present the eclectic cuisine of famed master chef Nobuyuki ‘Nobu’ Matsuhisa; the precision-temperature cooking at the Crystal Dining Room, inspired by elBulli and The Fat Duck; and Prego, which recreates dishes from LA’s Valentino restaurant. Crystal Cruises created the first onboard live herb garden so that chefs can source the freshest of flavourings no matter where the ship may dock. Wine is also taken seriously, with a cellar headed up by Robert Bath, former master sommelier at The French Laundry in California. The Vintage Room hosts private dinners where guests eat from tasting menus specially created to complement rare wines. There is a recommended wine for every course of every meal (breakfast excepted) during the voyage, all complimentary if you are on the ship’s all-inclusive programme. Cabins range from the decadent Penthouse suites on the top deck – with their large balconies, butler service, sophisticated sound systems, Jacuzzis and Cristal Champagne-stocked fridges – to the Deluxe Staterooms, where I stayed. Many of my fellow passengers have brought their children and grandchildren along for the ride, too.

SAIL AWAY Crystal Cruises (+44 20 7399 7601; www.crystalcruises.co.uk) offers a 14-night Passion de Grand Prix cruise from Lisbon to Rome from £4,683 per person, including flights

BEST FOR BIG DRAMA

China

JANE ARCHER GOES ON AN ORIENTAL ODYSSEY THAT PITCHES ITSELF TO MAXIMUM EFFECT

I

t’s 11am and I’m at the Dora Observatory, peering over the 39th parallel into North Korea. ‘No cameras,’ the armed guard shouts as someone tries to sneak a shot that everyone on this excursion to the demilitarised zone in Korea has been clearly warned is strictly forbidden. I’d say the trip was the highlight of my Regent Seven Seas cruise from Hong Kong to Tianjin, the port for Beijing, except that it was packed with so many great experiences: a 200mph ride on the Maglev train in Shanghai, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, the Great Wall of China, not to mention two weeks of being spoilt on board the luxurious Seven Seas Voyager. It’s not just that the ship has so much space for its 700 passengers that you never feel hemmed in, particularly in its generous all-suite accommodation with highly trained butlers to tend to your every whim. It’s also the unobtrusive service, the first-class food and the fact almost everything is included, from the flights and transfers to the tips. Unusually, most excursions are included, too. In fact, unless you use the Internet or

spa, or want premium brands of Champagne or spirits, there is no need to put your hand in your pocket for anything once on board. I tried all the restaurants: the international Compass Rose, steaks in Prime 7, Mediterranean dishes in Sette Mari (which occupies one half of the buffet in the evenings), and French Signatures, my favourite, with its Gallic classics including foie gras. Not very PC, I know, but irresistible.

SAIL AWAY Regent Seven Seas (+44 2380 682280; www.rssc.com) offers 16 nights from Hong Kong to Beijing from £4,999 per person (based on two sharing), including flights 12 Cruise Guide December 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOHN DE MELLO PHOTOGRAPHY; JEAN MICHEL LE MEUR/DPPI

LEE OSBORNE STEPS UP A GEAR FOR THE MEDITERRANEAN HIGH LIFE

B E L M O N D R O A D T O M A N D A L AY, M YA N M A R

DISCOVER MYANMAR FROM MYANMAR’S GREAT CITIES TO RIVERBANKS WHERE OXEN COME TO DRINK, THIS LUXURIOUS CRUISER GLIDES THROUGH BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES UNTOUCHED BY TIME.

WE INVITE YOU TO DISCOVER OUR COLLECTION OF EXCEPTIONAL TRAVEL EXPERIENCES IN THE WORLD’S MOST REMARKABLE LOCATIONS. INDIVIDUAL, INSPIRED, AND IMAGINATIVE, THE WORLD OF BELMOND IS A WORLD LIKE NO OTHER.

HOTELS | TRAINS | RIVER CRUISES | JOURNEYS | BELMOND.COM R E S E R VAT I O N S 0 8 4 5 5 5 6 7 1 2 0

BEST FOR HIGH-BROW HORIZONS

barce lona to athens

EMBARK ON A PRIVATE VIEW OF THE MEDITERRANEAN’S GREATEST WONDERS. BY E JANE DICKSON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREDERIC LAGRANGE & OLIVIERO OLIVIERI

‘IN MESSINA, WE VISI T THE MARKET TO PICK BURNISHED-SILVER SWORDFISH, SQUID AND PLUMP CAPERS’

I

t’s ‘Sea Day’ on our Mediterranean cruise, a blue limbo of swept skies and indigo deeps. Yesterday, Sicily was green and glinting, with fresh spring growth amid golden limestone at the Greek theatre in Taormina, and Etna’s absurd meringue topping glittering at noon. Today, we are bound for Crete, and from my spectacular private sundeck on the Seabourn Quest, the unbroken horizon is almost circular. Stretched out in my chair, caipirinha in hand, I review my options. There is no shortage of onboard entertainments: mini-golf on the top deck’s nine-hole course; bridge in the games room; a talk on Darwinian selection by the guest lecturer. I’m looking forward to the evening piano recital (Gershwin, immaculately performed) and I might, after lunch, join the demon quizzers for the Team Trivia Challenge or take a Pilates class in the glass-walled gym. Seabourn Quest – the newest of the Seattlebased Seabourn line – was launched in 2011 as a ‘game-changer in the luxury market’. For the 450 guests, the greatest luxury is, undoubtedly, 14 Cruise Guide December 2014

personal space. With its wide teak deck, plate glass and pale sofas, our Penthouse Spa suite has the feel of a private yacht. Best of all is the widescreen porthole, through which, as you lie in bed in the morning, new wonders slide into view. The 12-day ‘Mediterranean Mosaic’ cruise – from Barcelona to Athens – is a judicious mix of big cities and small islands. We join it a third of the way through, at Civitavecchia, the port in Rome where the snowy-prowed Quest stands out among naval warships like a swan among buzzards. Our fellow passengers are, in the main, American and the ship runs on breezy enthusiasm. It feels a little bit Shirley MacLaine to be ‘armed in’ to dinner by a lovely young steward – my partner does the same with a matching stewardess – but the rapport between crew and guests is genuine, with service levels bordering on the clairvoyant. Shore excursions are expensive, but there is no ‘hard sell’, and this itinerary lends itself to off-piste pootling. Naples, our first port of call, puts its best face to the sea. Out in the bay, you can still discern

the city’s old, aristocratic bones, crowned by the star-shaped Castel Sant’Elmo. Capri and the spectacular Amalfi Coast are within easy reach, then it’s a short overnight journey to Messina, where we have an early call to visit the market with the ship’s executive chef. Stall holders rinse squid like socks in plastic basins, and guests are invited to pick their own produce – burnishedsilver swordfish, capers as plump as grapes – for the next day’s ‘galley buffet’. This is a Seabourn institution and provides an intriguing glimpse of the gleaming, football-pitch-sized kitchen that serves up everything from steaks and salads at the al fresco Patio Grill to an artful, nine-course tasting menu in the intimate Restaurant 2. The Aegean leg of our tour delivers us to the heart of classical civilisation. On Crete, keen to avoid admission queues, we take the informative, if rather slow, Seabourn tour of the palace of Knossos, where peacocks strut beneath slanting pines. Recreations of Minoan murals startle with their Farrow & Ball colours, and the originals in Heraklion’s archeological museum seem scarcely

Clockwise from far left: Rhodes’ rugged landscape; octopuses hanging out to dry; Lindos Bay; Greek coffee; Via Toledo in Naples

less fresh. Up on the Lasithi Plateau, a half-day drive through villages heavy with the scent of lamb and rosemary, the only living thing to cross our path is a little ermine-type creature, its tail held erect like a ‘Stop! Weasels Crossing’ sign. On Rhodes, we hire a car and beat the midday coach parties to the Acropolis of Lindos, where tumbled Doric columns have broken into great stone cogs, as if a giant child had grown petulant with his construction set. Bodrum, on the coast of Turkey, feels like an exotic version of St Ives – a yachties’ haven with blue-tipped mosques. There’s a vast and shouty souk with sellers attuned to foreign sensibilities (‘This is quality, no cheap shite’), where I score some striped cotton hammam towels, and pomegranate molasses as bright

as blood. The relatively unvisited island of Syros, our last stop before disembarking in Athens, is a lovely surprise. The marble streets of its capital, Ermoupoli, are lined with elegant merchants’ mansions, and we scoot on a hired moped through an interior waist-deep in marguerites, to deserted coves where seagulls ride the salty wind. The wind is still blowing as we climb to the Church of the Resurrection where, on a vertiginous rock shelf, a priest struggles to raise the flag of the Evangelist. The smell of incense fills the church’s dim interior and we are invited to join pre-Easter Mass. But cruise ships do not wait and we point to the Seabourn Quest straining at anchor in the harbour below. ‘We are all travellers,’ says the priest, beating down his skirts. ‘And we are all going to the same place.’

SAIL AWAY In 2015, the seven-day ‘Mediterranean Tapestry’ cruise on the Seabourn Sojourn (+44 843 373 2000; www.seabourn.com) travels from Piraeus to Monte Carlo via Positano, Civitavecchia, Livorno and St Tropez, from £2,899 per person, based on two people sharing an Ocean View suite, including flights from Heathrow and transfers

BEST FOR DECKCHAIR DIVAS

THE Caribbean

JANE ARCHER GETS SERIOUS SERVICE ON A FILM-STAR-INSPIRED SHIP. PHOTOGRAPH BY JULIEN CAPMEIL

M

oses and the Red Sea spring to mind as passengers on the MSC Divina part to make way for my butler, an imposing figure immaculately dressed in black tails and white gloves, as he escorts me from the Yacht Club to dinner at Le Muse restaurant. It’s not that I don’t know how to get there, but this stately procession is one of the ways that Italian cruise line MSC makes staying in the Yacht Club, a gated residence at the front of the cruise ship, a very special experience. Before becoming a member of this exclusive club, I had doubts that MSC could deliver the luxury it promised. Its ships are floating four-star resorts renowned for their size (Divina holds 3,502 passengers), casual service and a party vibe that is as loud as the decor in many of the bars. But during my week-long island-hopping Caribbean cruise from Miami, I was forced to reconsider. The Yacht Club is stylish (with a hint of sparkle in the bejewelled Swarovski staircase), and the

atmosphere serene; the service from the butlers and personal concierge is impeccable. The suites are comfortable rather than big (suite 16007 was designed by Sophia Loren, the ‘godmother’ in whose honour the ship is named) and the club itself is compact – a private deck with ample sun-loungers for its 132 passengers, a small swimming pool and the Top Sail Lounge, where light snacks and complimentary drinks are available throughout the day. For those who want more, the main part of the ship also has a theatre, Balinese spa, gym and more pools, restaurants and bars. Personally, I was happy to be pampered and cocooned within the Yacht Club’s walls, only venturing out for meals at Le Muse and a few tours ashore – climbing Dunn’s River Falls in Jamaica, a Jeep drive around Grand Cayman, kayaking and snorkelling at Cozumel in Mexico, lazing on the beach at Great Stirrup Cay, a private island in the Bahamas. Escorted to my coach at all times by my butler, of course.

SAIL AWAY MSC Cruises (+44 20 3426 3010; www.msccruises.co.uk) has a seven-night round-trip Caribbean cruise departing Miami on 14 March 2015 from £2,299 per person, based on two sharing a Yacht Club suite



location

location

location

Passionate about travel, Holland America Line adds cool to cruising: :HFKHFNRXWLWV¿YHVWDUÀHHWDQGKDUGWRUHVLVWGHVWLQDWLRQGLDU\

Clockwise from this image: Macchu Picchu in South America; Fine wines come as standard; Bulgari china setting at the Pinnacle Grill; Antarctic cruising

Arts Centre presented by Food and Wine® magazine and the oh-so-tempting Asian-inspired Greenhouse Spa. The food gives five-star hotels a run for their money, particularly at the Italian inspired Canaletto and the intimate Pinnacle Grill.

the world's your oyster

olland America Line is the travel industry’s bestkept secret, and part of us wants to keep it that way. But for the cruise cautious, Holland America Line will blow any blue-rinse preconception out of the water. It’s all-chic/no-chintz style and innovative destination-led attitude creates a vibe that is fresh and modern. For a totally unique travel experience, globetrotting with Holland America Line comes highly recommended.

H

Holland America line’s 15-strong fleet of ships is more like an exclusive collection of luxury floating hotels. They are all mid-sized, a brilliant balance between excellent facilities and that hard-to-come-by personal touch. Onboard elegance and a home-from-home ambience feature impressive antiques, fresh flowers, priceless art, fluffy bathrobes, Egyptian cotton and private balconies. There’s also a library and internet centre powered by The New York Times, a Culinary

But it is Holland America Line’s portfolio of destinations that delivers the real wow factor. 2015 features more than 125 itineraries: from Alaska to Asia, Australasia to the Amazon, the Caribbean to Canada, they’ve even introduced a closer to home no-fly product for Brits. We not only want to try all the itineraries, we also highly approve of extra port time allowing guests to explore the world at leisure.

WINTER WARMERS SOUTH AMERICA Fascinating cultures, vibrant cities, natural wonders and beautiful beaches: South America never ceases to seduce. In winter, Holland America Line has four ships exploring this intriguing corner of the globe. Top itineraries include the 14-night South America Passage from Santiago to Buenos Aires taking in Iguazu Falls, Montevideo, the Chilean fjords, Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn. The 20/21-night Antarctica trip is in the do-before-you-die territory and the 14-night Amazon trip combines remote jungle with Caribbean bliss.

ASIAN ADVENTURE The exotic east is a heady mix of culture and beach bliss-out. We love the look of the 14-night Asian Adventure from Singapore to the hidden gem of Myanmar (Burma), Malaysia, Thailand and the Andaman Islands. Other 14-night cruises to catch our eye include the Far East Discovery (Hong Kong, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam) and the fascinating 14-night China & Japan Discovery. For further information call Holland America Line on 0843 374 2300 or visit hollandamerica.co.uk

BEST FOR OGLING GOLDEN PAGODAS

BURMA

LUCY HUGHES-HALLETT PASSES BY WHIRLPOOLS AND WASHERWOMEN ON AN ACCESS-ALL-AREAS TRIP THROUGH A DEEPLY TRADITIONAL LAND


I

PHOTOGRAPH: SCOTT STULBERG/CORBIS

had taken plenty of books to read on my cruise up Burma’s Chindwin River. I’d even thought I might get some writing done – the programme looked leisurely enough. But instead of this, I found myself spending hours and hours on deck, just staring. Onboard Belmond’s cruise ship Orcaella, one is looked after with solicitude and a lovely smile. Whenever I took my place in one of the wicker armchairs, a young, sweet-faced member of staff in a lungyi would appear and ask what I would like to drink, returning with fresh ginger tea or an iced drink made with lemongrass and mint. The ship has a pool that is just about a decent size, a spa, and well-informed and impressively polyglot guides conducting lectures on Burmese culture, but none of these could distract me for long from the scene unscrolling on either side of us. We were passing through a landscape that would be largely inaccessible by any other means; a landscape of breathtaking beauty, both natural and man-made. Our chef, Basan, provided a wonderful buffet lunch: griddled crayfish; mild, fragrant curries, and ambrosial puddings made from rice, coconut and caramelised papaya. But day after day I almost missed it, unable – despite the fact that the dining room had floorto-ceiling windows – to tear myself away from the pleasure of watching that beguiling world drift by from the breezy deck.

On its winding course from the Naga Hills down to its confluence with the Ayeyarwaddy River, the Chindwin passes through narrow passages between cliffs in a tumult of whirlpools. Wherever it does so, people have built pagodas to ward off misfortune. On rocky islands midstream, at the tops of crags and on cleared space halfway up the thickly wooded hills they stand – white stucco, or white-andgold, or gold all over – each dome surmounted by a gracefully turned spire, the whole topped with a filigree crown, ornamented with golden leaves and flowers, and hung with bells. There were times when we could see a dozen of them on one hillside. There were other times when the river slowed and broadened and a particularly imposing group – a temple flanked by smaller stupas – might be visible ahead for half an hour, marking a turn in the river otherwise undistinguishable in the haze. Villages face the Chindwin, which has been one of Burma’s main thoroughfares for centuries. Houses made of woven bamboo stand amid groves of toddy palms and banana plants. Women come here with their laundry, or let down their long, black hair for washing. At midday, children hurtle down the muddy banks to jump up and down and yell shrill greetings. Between villages, men in conical straw hats plod behind their teams of humpbacked bullocks. In the evenings, the water buffalo wallow, submerging themselves until

only their nostrils are visible. Every adult wears a lungyi; on the men, it is knotted in front so securely that they can clamber confidently in and out of their heavy, brightly painted canoes, and also stow a ferocious-bladed machete or a mobile phone around their waist. And every village has a monastery, where young men serve their compulsory novitiate, passing though the streets at dawn and midday in lacquer-red robes with their silvery metal begging bowls. Every monastery has a pagoda or two, or five. White stucco is carved into floral friezes, with golden Buddhas in seagreen-painted niches, and extravagantly maned stone lions. More gilded domes and spires hover like mirages above the dimpled, dull-copper surface of the river. These remote Burmese villages are every Orientalist’s dream of a world unsullied by modernity. Their reality, of course, is tough. Those picturesque bullocks were hauling wooden ploughs and carts – desperately hard work. But however much the conjunction of rural poverty with luxury travel might trouble your conscience, this is a wonderful trip, and Belmond is trying to do the right thing. The company sponsors a clinic in the city of Bagan, offering free treatment to more than 300 people a day, and also provides a water tank to one school and roofing materials to another – real substantial help. Go thoughtfully, but go, and feast your eyes.

SAIL AWAY Audley Travel (+44 1993 838105; www.audleytravel.com) offers a 16-day, tailor-made trip to Burma from £5,890 per person (based on two sharing), including 11 nights on the Belmond Orcaella, full-board; two nights in Bagan, two nights at Belmond Governor’s Residence in Yangon, all flights, transfers and tours

BEST FOR ROVING BUCCANEERS

Indonesia

LISA GRAINGER LOSES HERSELF IN A WORLD OF DRAGONS AND VOLCANOES

BEST FOR STRANGE CREATURES

S

i Datu Bua is the stuff of legend: the shape of a fantastical pirate ship with its flat aft and long bowsprit; gaff-rigged and powered by seven dramatic, rust-coloured sails; handcrafted from some of Indonesia’s most prized hardwoods. Both she and her older sister, Silolona, ply the waters of the Far East from October to March, spending the rest of the year in the Komodo Islands in the heart of Indonesia. Silolona, which has three king-size and two double suites, first set sail in 2004; the other, with three king-size, was launched in 2012. Sailing on these clear jade and turquoise waters, it’s soon obvious why the islands were the inspiration for King Kong and Jurassic Park: they’re positively primeval. Smoke billows from volcanic craters. Clouds of enormous bats soar into the evening light. Man-eating Komodo dragons, the biggest lizards on earth, lurk in the undergrowth. And beneath the water’s surface are scenes so crazily patterned and so teeming with life – from manta rays the size of small cars to squid-hunting sperm whales and synchronised shoals of rainbow-coloured fish – that it doesn’t feel real. Back on board, cabins are large and air-conditioned, with separate showers, loos, double basins and wardrobes, as well as beds swathed in ethical bamboo-and-cotton sheets, and walls hung with finely woven ikats. There’s an outdoor sound system connected to iPods for night-time parties and daytime chilling, and big, shaded dining tables for long lunches and candlelit gourmet dinners of Indonesian fish curry, grilled ginger prawns and mango crème brûlée. And, of course, there’s a little dive centre where you can hand your wet gear to a smiling shipmate and have it washed and dried while you enjoy a hot chocolate. On many yachts, living space is restricted, but not here. There are lots of spots to hang out, from a net strung beneath the bowsprit and shaded banquettes on the aft deck to loungers in the sun. The crew are also keen to contribute their local knowledge, pointing out dolphins and sharing traditional myths, and at the end of the day, even playing their guitars in the moonlight.

SAIL AWAY Original Diving (+44 20 7978 0505; www.originaldiving. com) offers five nights on Silolona, all inclusive (excluding alcohol), from £5,600 per person (based on two sharing), including flights, transfers and all activities, with a night at Karma Kandara in Bali. Silolona and Si Datu Bua can also be chartered for £11,500 and £8,100 per day respectively

RICHARD WHISTLER GOES ROCKHOPPING ON A LAND-BASED EXPEDITION IN THE PACIFIC. PHOTOGRAPHS BY BARRY LEWIS & ROB HOWARD

P

ootling along in my snorkel, 1,000km out in the Pacific, I came face to face with a surgeonfish. It looked at me with an expression that said, ‘Excuse me, you’re in my way.’ And it didn’t budge. A few feet below, five small sharks huddled, dozing. A sea lion swooped in to say hello, then sped off as if flying through the water. Such are the Galápagos Islands, the isolated archipelago off the coast of Ecuador, where wild creatures retain an innocence lost elsewhere. Nowhere is wildlife so willing to let Homo Touristicus come quite so close. The traditional way to explore this World Heritage Site has been on a small cruiser – around 97 per cent of the archipelago is designated a national park, most islands are completely uninhabited and hotel options are limited – but changes are afoot, and the land-based cruise is gaining ground. In September, a new hotel, the 14-room Pikaia Lodge, opened on Santa Cruz, the most populated of the islands. Built on the edge of a volcano crater, the lodge has spectacular views, though at certain times of year they can be obscured by cloud. For years, its owner has operated two live-aboard ships for cruises and diving holidays. One of these, Pikaia 1, is now dedicated to taking hotel guests on guided day trips around nearby islands. The other is the 100ft-long Galápagos Aggressor III, which has four decks and eight double or twin cabins, each with its own shower and proper loo. Excellent food appears from a modest galley; snorkels, wetsuits and fins are supplied, and kayaks are carried on

board. Our guide is friendly and knowledgeable, which is important. In a landscape that in places can be harsh and arid, learning about the wildlife and geology enriches the experience significantly. Charles Darwin was arguably a pioneer of the land-based cruise; during his epic voyage aboard the Beagle in the 1830s, he spent more time on rock than on water. So perhaps it is fitting that Galápagos, which provided key evidence for Darwin, has adopted the Pikaia approach. True, you can’t cover as great a number of islands as you might on a pure cruise – returning to base each day takes time – but the food at the hotel is excellent, and the bathrooms alone are the size of a double cabin on a yacht. Plus, the whole thing doesn’t move when the wind blows, unless you overdo it at the cocktail bar by the infinity pool. But be warned: because so little can be produced on the islands, much has to be imported, so an end-of-day gin and tonic costs about £11.

SAIL AWAY Steppes Travel (+44 843 778 9926; www.steppestravel.com) offers four nights at Pikaia Lodge, full board, and two nights at La Casona de la Ronda in Quito, with breakfast, from £4,525 per person (based on two sharing), including flights and transfers December 2014 Cruise Guide 21

BEST FOR DIVING IN THE BIG BLUE

Maldives

F

our Seasons Explorer – a three-deck, 11-cabin catamaran – travels a 300-mile circuit between the Four Seasons resorts of Kuda Huraa (a 25-minute speedboat ride from Malé airport) and Landaa Giraavaru in the Baa Atoll to the north. This is the unexplored Maldives, and that’s the point. In the Baa Atoll two thirds of the islands are uninhabited, so the cruise is billed as the ultimate diving experience: an opportunity to access all those unexplored reefs and virgin dive sites in the company of your very own onboard marine biologist. We went as nondivers, happy just to be out on the water, but as it happens we could see clear down to 30 feet, so snorkellers could spot pretty much everything a diver would. You can take the trip northward for three nights, southward for four, or stay put all the way round (four is about right, it’s a small boat), and you are guaranteed to have the kind of experience that makes lying on your back by the pool seem rather lame. The Explorer, although the fastest, most luxurious liveaboard cruiser in the Maldives, is a solid, no-frills kind of vessel, more Elizabeth II than Mr Armani. The rooms are compact and cosy; the treatment area is a curtainedoff corner of the upper deck; you don’t get scattered rose petals with your turn-down, or your own Jacuzzi (there is no plunge pool, either). But, intentionally or not, this is all part of its charm. Four Seasons has created an escape from the resort formula where you are as free as if this were a private charter. Days on the boat began with a blissed-out breakfast on deck, followed by an earlymorning dive, a snorkel and then lunch: sometimes a picnic on a deserted stretch of white sand set up with individual umbrellas 22 Cruise Guide December 2014

and rush mats; sometimes grilled snapper onboard. Afterwards the Explorer moved on, setting course for the manta-ray feeding grounds or favourite whale shark channels. There was time to read and to swim. Time to play football on a spit of sand, the crew versus the fitter male guests. Time to water-ski, or wakeboard whenever it took your fancy. Those who wanted to fit in an extra dive (there were three a day and a couple of night dives), visit a local market, or get a massage under the palm trees only had to ask. At night we all gathered in the sitting room to watch videos taken during the day by our wetsuited cameraman, and once again boggled at the barracuda’s teeth in close-up, the turtle’s sad, dreamy eyes, the 10ft-deep shoals of snapper and the manta rays like eerie, silver-mouthed spacecraft. It is worth mentioning that if this boat were full to capacity – it sleeps 22 – it would have felt much too crowded. As it was, there were just eight of us and when the time came to leave and say goodbye to the crew and my fellow travellers, I had a big lump in my throat. And that’s saying something when you’re disembarking at one of the top hotels in the Maldives.

SAIL AWAY Original Diving (+44 20 7978 0505; www.original diving.com) offers seven nights on the Four Seasons Explorer from £4,950 per person full-board, including transfers, watersports, island hopping and British Airways flights from Gatwick to Malé

PHOTOGRAPH: SEBASTIAN POSINGIS

KIT UP FOR A MULTICOLOURED UNDERWATER MISSION IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. BY SHANE WATSON

BEST FOR EYEBALLING BEASTIES

THE ZAMBEZI

DITCH THE JEEP AND SAFARI IN STYLE BY TAKING TO THE RIVER. BY ROD GILCHRIST. PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID CROOKES

A

frica’s savannahs are intoxicating grassy plains where animals live free beneath skies that the heavens paint scarlet as the sun goes down. But to see them best, head for the river. From the top deck of the Zambezi Queen, a three-tiered luxury cruiser that travels the Chobe River, just upstream of the thunderous Victoria Falls, the panorama greeting passengers at sunset is stunning. Both of the river’s banks are soaked in an intense, orange light, the sky a transcendental, deep blue. On the north bank are the bright-green rushes and forests of Namibia; to the south, the dusty red, acaciacovered hills of Botswana. Ahead, glowing gold, are the rushing waters of the mighty Zambezi, into which the Chobe flows. Then we see them, just silhouettes at first. A 30-strong family of elephants tromping over an arid hill in a line, calves in tow, to slake their thirst after the heat of the day. Moored in the centre of the river, we’re


close enough to smell their earthy dung and hear their panting breath as they splash at the water’s edge, a mesmeric display lasting an hour. Offering unrivalled front-row seats for this primordial theatre in one of Africa’s least populated landscapes, the Zambezi Queen is a beauty. The ship has just 14 guest suites – 10 standard, four master – each with an en-suite bathroom and balcony, and there is a private party atmosphere on board. The top tier, where guests (adventurers who want to do their exploring in comfort, plus one honeymoon couple) gather before meals, is an airy, open space decorated with black-and-white wildlife photography, with banquettes for dining, a wood-burning fire, plush sofas, a bar and a plunge pool where you can sip a gin and tonic as the Biblical riverbank slides by. The ship’s wide, floor-to-ceiling French doors ensure that none of the view is missed, and the design is a contemporary antidote to the

standard wicker-and-canvas safari-lodge decor: chic white-ontaupe interiors with African references (including Nguni cattle hide and fake-zebra rugs) to provide an ethnic backstory. It is in some ways like being on a houseboat. The cruiser voyages just 15 miles up- and downstream during each two- or three-night stay, spending much of its time in mid-river moorings. No other boats pass, there are no ports of call, with few thatched villages to explore. It’s just you, the animals (with luck, you will spot the big cats and giraffe) and the wilderness. Which, of course, is its charm. Don’t expect Michelin-standard food. As always in Africa, meals are wholesome and plentiful, from kudu potjie with roast butternut to beef stroganoff. I enjoyed the delicious chilled pumpkin soup, corn chowder and lemon meringue made by Vicky Nel – the wife of Wayne, our skipper – who served excellent South African wines with dinner and

also arranged shore picnics. Her fresh-baked muffins at breakfast and afternoon tea were heroic, as was the Amarula panna cotta. Sitting on the top deck, trying to decide whether to indulge in a little light angling for tiger fish or to hop on the land cruiser to feel the spray and rage of the nearby Victoria Falls, I realised what a joy it was to be on safari without all the rattling-around in a four-wheel-drive, knocking knees with strangers as you charge off in pursuit of a distant cheetah.

SAIL AWAY Mantis (+44 20 7594 4790; www.mantiscollection.com) offers two nights from £545 per person and three nights from £813 per person (based on two sharing), including meals, land safaris and transfers. British Airways (www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Johannesburg; South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) flies to Kasane

BEST FOR THIRSTY FOLK

Bor deaux

WINE LOVER JOHN WALSH MAKES NEW FRIENDS ON A CORK-POPPING,

G

liding along the mushroom-brown waters of the Gironde like an elongated bateau-mouche, the Viking Forseti is a far cry from the original Norse longships. Its passengers are dedicated to rosé and Pomerol rather than rape and pillage. Instead of horned helmets and grim expressions, the crew wear blue uniforms with hierarchical flashes on the epaulettes. In place of guttural chanting, we can hum along with the cocktail stylings of Sylvia on the Yamaha baby grand. We’re on a wine cruise – sorry, we’re on the ‘Dordogne, Garonne and Gironde Rivers’ cruise – taking in the vineyards of the Bordeaux and Sauternes regions, with lectures on viniculture and opportunities to try, like Withnail, the finest wines available to humanity. We’re passengers of Viking River Cruises, which has been plying up and down the world’s waterways since 1997 and operates more than 50 longships, from the Rhine and the Danube to the Yangtze and the Mekong, by way of the Volga. 26 Cruise Guide December 2014

The longship is 443ft long and designed with kindergarten simplicity: three decks of staterooms, two decks of eating-drinkingchatting rooms at the bow and a central stairwell. The middle section has a modest library, two Wi-Fi-enabled laptops, a coffee station and some comfy chairs. It’s hardly wild, Babylonian extravagance, but that’s not the point. Viking cruises are mainly about friendship. From the moment you arrive, you’re blitzed with bonhomie and carpet-bombed with charm. None of it seems fake. Alexandra Chambon, the French programme director, radiates authority with a light touch and an indulgent, schoolteacherly smile. Passengers waking to her Tannoyed voice, suggesting they make their way right now to the muster station, tend to do as she says. Thomas Koessler, the Austrian hotel manager, bears an expression of chronic concern that you might need something (toothpick? after-dinner mint?) which has escaped his hawk-like attention. Magalie, the

executive chef with an Elton John-sized collection of coloured spectacles, Franck the Madagascan sommelier and Derie the maître d’ shoot the breeze with guests at mealtimes, in the restaurant or the snacky Aquavit bar. All the staff remember your name. If you leave a biro at the breakfast table, it’s gravely returned to you. Your cabin is mostly filled by a comfortable double bed, but you don’t feel squashed: there’s room for two substantial and mutually endeared adults to slide past each other without distress. The decor is Scandanavian-minimalist: pale wood veneer, recessed lighting, white, laptopfriendly work surface regularly strewn with fruit and the rum-drenched Bordeaux cakes called canélés. The bathroom is handsomely appointed with a Villeroy & Bosch basin, L’Occitane unguents and sumptuous white towels. A balcony with two chairs lets you sit outside watching the Dordogne slide past. The 190 passengers are predominantly American and almost all seasoned cruisers. Many

‘A FELLOW PASSENGER HAD BEEN THROUGH FIVE WIVES AND WAS LOOKING FOR A SIXTH

A fishing cabin on the Gironde estuary. Left, Bordeaux’s Girondins monument. Opposite: a square in Saint-Emilion; Château Margaux

PHOTOGRAPHS: AMANDA MARSALIS; GIANLUCA SANTONI/SIME; JENNY ZARINS

CHATEAU-HOPPING RIVER JAUNT THROUGH PREMIER CRU COUNTRY have sailed with Viking before, on ocean and river trips – repeat travellers can join the Viking Explorer Society, which means being invited to cocktail parties and kept in the loop about new cruise destinations to try. The travellers we met were all hectically talkative and sociable. John P Roach Jr is an octogenarian conspiracy theorist from San Diego, whose books include new insights into the Kennedy assassination (LBJ did it). A keen river-cruiser, he’s been through five wives and is looking for a sixth on this voyage. Sindy and Mike from Buffalo, New York, are something big in computing. They’ve tried oceangoing cruise ships of vast size, but prefer the personal scale of the Forseti, and the classiness of Magalie’s cooking (which is classic French, a touch heavy on sauces, and accompanied by well-chosen Bordeaux whites and reds, available pretty much all day). Popular conversation topics include the plot of Downton Abbey – its airing on US TV is sponsored by Viking – and the unusual attentiveness of the staff.

The eight-day trip takes us up and down three rivers as though making a sign of the cross. From Bordeaux we glide up the Gironde to Pauillac, whence we take a coach through the Elysian Fields of the wine buff – the vineyards of the Médoc. Our hearts race as we pass signs bearing famous names: Pichon-Longueville, Lynch-Bages, Saint-Julien. We’re given a tour of Château Giscours, one of the Margaux wine houses, which produces up to one million bottles a year; then a tasting of three vintages, followed by dinner in the great hall of Château Kirwan, cooked by Magalie and featuring a thin but elegant ’81 to go with the filet mignon de veau, sauce champignons and gambas à la provençale. If the 270,000 acres of unrelieved Médoc vineyards exhaust the eye, the Pomerol

region east of the Dordogne is more villagey. We explore the ancient ramparts and stone stairways of Saint-Emilion town, its amazing monolithic church and its wine shops with their chatty, tourist-fleecing proprietors. Later, we meander south on the Garonne to sample the honey-and-raisin Sauternes at Château d’Arche and learn about the ‘noble rot’ (Botrytis cinerea fungus) that shrivels ripe grapes to make concentrated sweet wine. It’s all a big success. We’re slightly dazed by the drink, sunlight, food and chat as we return to the floating hotel of the Forseti to discover a pair of towels, shaped into an inebriated-looking bear, sitting on the bed wearing my spare sunglasses. Cute and hard to resist, like the cruise itself.

SAIL AWAY Viking River Cruises (+44 808 278 8181; www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk) offers an eight-day Heart of Bordeaux cruise from £2,295 per person, including flights, all meals plus wine, beer and soft drinks, and five guided tours; guests also have access to free Wi-Fi

BEST FOR A RUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE


peru

PHOTOGRAPHS: CEDRIC ANGELES/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

STEVE KING COMES FACE-TO-FACE WITH LIFE ON THE AMAZON BY JOINING AN INTREPID CREW THAT HAS ALSO JUST BRANCHED OUT INTO ASIA So picture this. You’re smack-bang in the middle of the Amazon. The Amazon jungle and the Amazon River. The middle of the middle of nowhere. It’s enormous. Forget about the Google-able numbers, the mad, made-up-sounding metrics of magnitude. The Amazon basin is the greatest remaining wilderness on the face of the earth. There isn’t really more of anything, anywhere. So shouldn’t it be, you know, enough? It’s an interesting question, and you won’t know the answer unless you go and see for yourself. See if it matches or exceeds or confounds your expectations of what the Amazon ought to be. You might be surprised. I was. There’s more than one way to do it. But there’s currently only one way to do it in five-star style, with air-conditioned suites, floor-toceiling windows, ace guides, a menu created by the celebrity chef who runs Malabar in Lima and the very barman who invented the Anaconda Sour (crème de menthe, white rum, lime juice – genius). Aqua Expeditions operates two state-of-the-art riverboats, Aria Amazon and Aqua Amazon, which ply a stretch of the great river and its tributaries within the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, a park in north-eastern Peru almost the size of Belgium. You fly from Lima to Iquitos and push off from there. Itineraries vary according to duration and time of year. The basic idea is that the boat travels by night, then stops in the morning and lets you off to make one or two forays a day into the jungle on foot. The guides, most of them locals, are outstanding. The wildlifespotting opportunities are, of course, unparalleled. The crew of the Aria provide a partial checklist of likely suspects. It contains about 350

species, from giant gladiator tree frogs to nine-banded armadillos, spectacled caimans, pink dolphins and ladder-tailed nightjars. There was a quiet chap on my Aria trip called Joe, from Odessa, Texas. Like most of the others on the boat, Joe was of retirement age. Unlike most of the others, he was retiring by nature too. Shy, laconic, polite. Not the life and soul. The only one aboard whose wife couldn’t be bothered to join him. But for Joe the cruise wasn’t about killing time or ticking boxes or keeping the missus happy. It was about realising a childhood dream. He was reduced to tears of joy just looking at the trees. ‘Ah’m in oil,’ he said. ‘Yessir. An y’all know them pumpin’ jacks? Well. Thass what we got for trees in Odessa.’ For Joe, the Amazon was all about the trees, and the trees were enough. For me, I’m still not sure what it was all about, or whether it was enough. That was my surprise. I was so primed for sublimity that I fretted there was something wrong with me when the shades of Longinus, Burke and Schopenhauer failed to materialise. In my head I understood the splendour and significance of where I was. But in my heart I didn’t feel it. At river level, where everything is water, treeline and sky, I had the sensation not of being absorbed into the beating heart of an infinity of wilderness but of being stuck on a long, twisty lane in Devon, with thick hedgerows on either side, hemmed in, unable to see beyond the next bend, where all that I would see would be more of the same. In the end the keenest pleasures of the Amazon were the smallest and simplest. I remember being struck by the serene dignity of a solitary heron on a bare branch beside the riverbank. A still, silent point of focus in the incomprehensible vastness.

SAIL AWAY Cazenove+Loyd (+44 20 7384 2332; www.cazloyd.com) offers a six-night trip to Peru from £4,200 per person, based on two sharing. This includes two nights at Hotel B in Lima with breakfast and private airport transfers, four nights aboard Aria with all meals, house drinks, transfers and daily excursions, return flights from Heathrow via Madrid with Iberia and domestic flights from Lima to Iquitos. Last month, Aqua Expeditions (www.aquaexpeditions.com) launched the Aqua Mekong, which cruises the Mekong River in Cambodia and Vietnam

BEST FOR BALLGOWNS ON THE BALTIC

Southampton to sT PETERSBUR ANTONIA QUIRKE IS HAPPILY SURPRISED BY A HIGH-TEMPO, HIGH-SEAS SPECTACULAR


PHOTOGRAPH: JOSEF HOFLEHNER/GALLERY STOCK

I

t’s 6pm on a 122,000-ton ship off the coast of Finland, and I’m watching Sean Connery on the big screen playing a defecting USSR submarine commander in The Hunt for Red October. As he removes his beskozirka and grimly pours a vodka, the cinema sighs. Did Connery ever look more noble? But is that porthole he’s standing in front of leaking? Whoever programmed the films on this cruise has a sense of humour. The day before it was Captain Phillips, about the brutal hijacking of a container ship. Or was it Woody Allen’s gin-soaked Blue Jasmine? Impossible to remember. The days merge into one long, light-headed forward-roll through time zones and oceans, breakfast becoming lunch becoming afternoon tea, and then early cocktails leading helplessly to a fivecourse dinner with flambéed lobster and balsamic strawberries, culminating in a live show by a Chinese magician who turns water into florescent-blue sand. There are 2,850 people onboard the 1,000ft Celebrity Eclipse: 13 decks, 1,426 staterooms, 10 restaurants (the creperie and Tuscan Grill are best), 12 bars, a gym, spa (excellent foot rubs), well-stocked library (Jane Eyre, The Dramatic Lives of the Emperors of Rome, Stephen King), lawn, shops, casino, grand theatre (where movies are screened four times a day), indoor and outdoor pools and bubbling hot tubs. It’s a moving apartment complex, a starship destroyer. And while I confess I have often thought of such holidays as peculiar, to say the least (where to get a moment’s peace?), in the week I’m onboard I scarcely spot an unhappy face among crew or passengers, or hear a voice raised in complaint or frustration. Bedrooms are a good size and comfortable – private cubby-holes to flop in – and the ensuite bathrooms are kept spotless. Staff stop to talk, and take the same lifts as passengers; there is little sense of a smotheringly awkward upstairs-downstairs divide. In fact, the atmosphere is markedly benign and egalitarian. In the communal breakfast and lunch canteen, with its vast selection of bespoke omelettes, teriyaki salmon, tortillas, rare roast beef carved with formidable shows of expertise, pizzas, fresh bread, slabs of cake and elaborate ice-cream sundaes, some groups drink Champagne and toast each other while others quietly read Kindles in their flip-flops. There is something both pleasingly confidential and entirely random about travelling in such close quarters with perfect strangers. Although it’s mostly couples in their fifties and sixties, there are some extended families travelling too. One evening a boy turns 17 and for a moment the whole crowd in the central atrium of the ship takes a break from dancing to the house band’s version of

‘Good Golly Miss Molly’ to tipsily cheer him as he ascends the staircase, red as a beetroot. The Eclipse travels all over the world, but this sold-out trip takes us from Stockholm to St Petersburg and then back through the Baltic towards Berlin and eventually Paris, stopping for city tours along the way. There is a particularly animated exodus to coaches and guides when we arrive in Russia for pre-arranged tours of St Petersburg, a place you still can’t otherwise visit without a visa. It’s been 25 years since I was last here; I came as a young teenager with the nuns from my convent school (Lord knows why they let us in, this was pre-Glasnost). And although there are now branches of Dior and Prada on Bolshaya Konyushennaya Ulitsa Square, the roads still throng with clapped-out Skodas. In food markets there is piped music of the kind once used to accompany those tiny, post-Khrushchev gymnasts who landed sensationally astraddle a beam, and women with arms like Brian Dennehy ladling Siberian honey from huge containers, occasionally tidying, with a nudge of fur bootees, the shoulder-high piles of oozing cherries that keep falling forward in a super-fragrant avalanche. Along the late-summer streets around Pushkinskaya station sheaves of fake flowers are sold next to bunches of real spring onions. Two huskies sleep as their master lays out fresh dill and sprigs of edelweiss on newspaper spread on the pavement. That evening, back onboard, we set sail once more and there is a collective rubbing of hands. Passengers, now togged in satin gowns, anticipate a glass-blowing show, bourbon tasting and DJ Lenny playing the best of Neil Diamond. We are clearly mesmerised by the vastness of the wake of the ship. Cutting through the cadaverous grey waters at 24 knots, it moves inexorably on through the occasional shoal of flashing fish. It’s a compulsive view and the soft shudder of the engines lullingly ever-present. Two days at sea stretch before us: nothing to do but thoroughly occupy this strange and hilarious world with its thousand treats laid on. This cruise is really a reboot of the holiday camp, but with black ties, Jacuzzis and watermelon Martinis, and I can’t help but wonder how we must look from the outside at night, viewed through the countless portholes, in a massive mirage of delirium. The ironed shirts and lip gloss, the gentians on the tables in the crowded and cheerful banqueting halls, the frantic chatter and come-hither Hopperish glow of lights. And always along the top decks well after midnight, while staff are indoors laying tables for breakfast, couples wrapped in blankets, silently brooding against the unkind Baltic breeze, swilling that final glass of amontillado.

SAIL AWAY Celebrity Cruises (+44 845 456 0523; www.celebritycruises.co.uk) offers a 15-night Scandinavia and Russia cruise onboard the Celebrity Eclipse from £2,299 per person based on two sharing a balcony stateroom, including meals and entertainment. The trip departs from Southampton on 30 May 2015, calling at Copenhagen (overnight stay), Stockholm, Tallinn, St Petersburg (overnight stay), Klaipeda, Gdansk and Berlin before returning to Southampton. A suite for this sailing costs from £3,799 per person. The new Suite Class includes a private restaurant, in-room butler service and access to a VIP lounge

BEST FOR TRIPPY BEAUTY

N orway

A

small fleet of working ships, Hurtigruten has been travelling up the Norwegian coast into the far-northern fjords and the Arctic since 1893, delivering post and people from town to town. I had heard of this particular summer voyage up to Kirkenes (just a few kilometres from the Russian border) from several sources, all of them enthusiastic to the point of ecstasy – and can now confirm that, more than perhaps any trip I have been on, this felt like a profound leave of absence. My journey started in Bergen, where on a hot July day teenagers lolled on the rocks at the edge of town. Girls with custard curls and that whitechocolate Norwegian skin lay casually reading, until boredom with their own leggy-sandalled perfection drove them to take a wander through the nearby medieval district of Bryggen, lined with boho-clapboard houses, and down to cafés beside the famous fish market. Embarking later that evening on the 400ft, seven-deck MS Richard With, painted a comfortingly efficient black and red, it was immediately evident from all the loading and unloading that it was a working vessel, although one with 215 smart, portholed cabins for up to 458 cruise passengers from all over the world. Making regular stops through the night to deliver post and domestic goods to far-flung towns and islands, during the days the ship also transports school kids, keen-booted hikers and day-trippers dragging rucksacks. While the single and double cabins are clean and comfy (I loved my cosy bunk), the dining room always worth a visit (perfectly smoked trout, pickles, salads, lamb stews, fresh rye bread), and well-organised excursions for island tours and whale-watching on offer most days, really the only place to be is on deck. Make no mistake, this is what you are here for. It is a view which nothing – nothing – can prepare you for. The scale and the glittering strangeness of the fjords! The subtle shifts in rock colour and the staggering white distances of mountain heights. For seven days we sailed towards the northern cape, past thousands of misted islands: some green with spruce, some purple with lupins, every 32 Cruise Guide December 2014

one of them named (‘Longdragon’, ‘Troll island’) and marked on a sea map that several passengers spread out in front of them, attempting perhaps to impose some order on the unusual sense that begins to build in you: an ecstasy of mirage and delirium. One afternoon we sailed into the monumental Geirangerfjord and there were moments when everyone on deck spontaneously stood up in unison as though giving an ovation. Waterfalls, jumping pollock, the ochres and oranges of wooden boathouses, water the clearest and most pellucid blue, swell-bared glistening weed. As the ship moved through the water almost without ripple, the only sound was the unhurried beat of accompanying goose-wings. The days passed and we approached the midnight sun, crossing into the Arctic Circle with its rugged mountains at 1.30am; a group of teenagers gathered on deck, sunlight-drunk, dopey, reading aloud to each other from The Two Towers (and how Tolkienian it all was). I began to lose any real sense of time as the sky – now the most exquisite landscape – streaked a wild African red which grew and gorged until the sun glittered a ghostly high silver. At this point in the voyage few passengers were even pretending to make time for anything so ordinary as sleep, and crew members sympathetically griddled fishcakes for late snacks. And yet none of it made me feel strung-out or twitchy, even when entering the hallucinatory Trollfjord at a day-bright 3am and witnessing water as still as a mountain tarn yet miraculously milky-turquoise like a children’s-party blancmange, overhung with pale-yellow genista and cloudberries as vivid as venous blood. It was a sight that drew from everyone gathered on deck the same response: euphoric laughter in salute to the beauty of the world, and the passing around of a welcome bottle of wine.

SAIL AWAY Hurtigruten (www.hurtigruten.co.uk) offers a seven-day Classic Voyage North from Bergen to Kirkenes from £599 per person full-board in an inside cabin. The price is valid on a range of dates during January, February and March 2015

PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER CHURCHILL/GALLERY STOCK

GET A NATURAL HIGH IN THE FAR-OUT FJORDS. BY ANTONIA QUIRKE


decadent

waters

Thinking holiday? Think cruise. For the voyage of a lifetime, climb aboard six-star cruise line Regent Seven Seas Cruises and feel the weight of the world slip from your shoulders ruises are making a comeback, and it’s happening fast. So, whilst they’re riding the crest of the wave, why not consider leaping aboard one of the world’s finest vessels with Regent Seven Seas Cruises? Dispelling myths of clichéd cruises – there are no public announcements or regimented dining hours – the six-star cruise giant has perfectly harnessed a world where time decelerates to a leisurely pace so moments can be cherished in an ultraluxurious environment.

gym and two-tier theatre – the majority of which are usually only found on far larger ships. Crucially, the all-inclusive set-up also lifts potential barriers of social awkwardness. Cruise regulars will be familiar with head-scratching conundrums such as whether to buy new-found friends drinks along with their own, or if it’s necessary to tip staff each time you’re after so much as a fresh bottle of water, but this is all eliminated once you board Regent Seven Seas' cashfree decks. Plus, there’s no need to sign for every order, meaning admin is banished too.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises sets sail all over the world, meaning the backdrop to your voyage could be anywhere from Rome to Barcelona, San Francisco to Vancouver, Cape Town to Singapore. But this isn’t in-your-face, over-thetop flash, rather understated intimate elegance. Starting at 301 square feet, the all-suite, allbalcony accommodation is some of the largest at sea. Outside your quarters, revel in super-sized decking (no ship sets sail with more than 700 guests, despite there being space for twice that on board) and watch as the crew predicts your every whim and need without ever verging on the intrusive. Attention to detail is apparent the moment you set foot on board, needless to say Regent Seven Seas Cruises boasts the best staff to guest ratio in the industry.

This is cruising completely re-imagined and we’re unquestionably on board.

C

As a term, all-inclusive may have connotations that are less than tempting, but as far as luxury cruises are concerned, this is your ticket to a money-free, no-decisions-to-be-made holiday. We are talking flights, gourmet dining with a choice of up to four restaurants depending on the ship (foodies rejoice), bottomless champagne, offboard excursions, 24-hour room service, a spa,

For further information visit intangibleluxury.com and rssc.com or call Regent Seven Seas Cruises on 023 8068 2159

EXCLUSIVE READER OFFER SAVE £350PP when you book a Penthouse Suite

on any 2015 or 2016 Regent voyage or SAVE £200PP when you book a Veranda Suite

(F grade & above) NB: This offer is exclusive to Condé Nast Traveller readers and visitors to The Luxury Travel Fair, 7 to 9 November. Offer closing date is 15 November, 2014.

Clockwise from top left: Seven Seas Voyager at sea; relaxing around the pool deck; dining al fresco in Sette Mari; Penthouse Suite aboard Seven Seas Mariner

DON’T MISS Regent Seven Seas Cruises has recently expanded its off-board excursions portfolio to include overnight stays in iconic stopovers around the globe. In the most un-cruise-like of fashions these are a far cry from the tourist-heavy hubs you’d presume. The team has judiciously combed the map to handpick cultural hotspots and will weave you through secret nooks and crannies to unearth some of the world’s secret gems. Group numbers are kept to a minimum and passionate guides love to exercise their expert local NQRZOHGJHVR÷UHDQ\ questions their way.

BEST FOR WALKING WITH PENGUINS


ANTARCTICA FOR A SENSE OF STEPPING OFF THE MAP INTO THE UNKNOWN, HEAD DUE SOUTH. BY PETER HUGHES. PHOTOGRAPH BY NICK COBBING

I

magine a high mountain range that has been flooded, with the water rising within 1,000 metres of its peaks. We, like Noah, sail amid the summits. The sea is glossy, gunmetal-grey-black and flecked with blossoms of ice; the mountains, chiselled from rock and inlaid with snow, are pasted on to a blue sky. Such are the sights on an Antarctic cruise. This year, the visceral allure of the magnetic south attracted around 35,000 visitors. Seen by fewer travellers than any other continent, the Antarctic is, in so many senses, the last place on earth, the last to be seen: no person set foot here until 1821. Nature is at its most colossal and uncompromising here. The Ross Ice Shelf, almost as large as France, once calved an iceberg the size of Jamaica. Today, the Antarctic is becoming a polar playground. People parachute, ski, motorcycle, dive, fly, and drive all-terrain vehicles into its interior. But the overwhelming majority arrive by ship, usually expedition vessels adapted to operate in polar waters. Most of these have strengthened hulls to withstand the ice, though there are no longer any passenger-carrying Polar Class ice-breakers, and visitors and their guides land in Zodiac inflatables. Most visitors sail from Ushuaia in Argentina during the austral summer (November to March) and three quarters land at various scientific stations and nature reserves on the rhino-horn-shaped Antarctic Peninsula, which is closest to South America. The other 25 per cent – those on bigger cruise ships carrying more than 500 passengers and only able to sail on open water – are not permitted to put people ashore. Instead, their tourists have to admire the scenery from the deck, and they miss a lot. They may spot whales, seals and countless seabirds – albatrosses, petrels and skuas – but they won’t have the Gulliver experience of meeting penguins on the ice. You, the interloping giant, tower among a busy society of little, tottering creatures who are oblivious to your presence. Humans are meant to keep a five-metre distance from wildlife: someone should tell the penguins. Those who are ship-bound won’t see the ‘temporary’ bases built by Sir Ernest Shackleton and Captain Robert Scott in the Heroic Age

of exploration and now scrupulously conserved by the Antarctic Heritage Trust. A few hundred people do so each year, making the long voyage into the Ross Sea, usually from either Tasmania or New Zealand. What visitors miss most of all by not walking on Antarctica is the emotional experience, the extraordinary feeling of being in a place so immense, so inhospitable, so remote and so unaffected by man. You have to recalibrate your perceptions. Bigger than Australia, the continent conforms to no comprehensible scale. There are no fences, frontiers or indigenous settlements. It has no government as such, no police force or army. No one owns it. The closest thing to a constitution is the 1959 Antarctic Treaty, which defines the principles by which the continent is run and protected. The treaty is exemplary in its simplicity. Article 1 states that Antarctica shall be used for peaceful purposes only, and that’s about it. The two principal activities are science and tourism, and there is no question that so far the scientists have left a considerably larger imprint than travellers. The biggest of all the research stations, the USA’s McMurdo Station (or Mac Town, as it is known), has a transient population of around 1,200 and an ATM. Tourism has deposited nothing like that. But visitor numbers are rising again, having slumped after the financial crisis. This year, for the first time, more have arrived from China than from the UK. The problem is the way tourism is concentrated in the Peninsula. Despite there being some 200 landing sites, the majority of visitors go to just 35. Of these sites, around 10 welcome as many as 10,000 people a year. The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), which is made up of over 100 member companies and accounts for pretty much all of the continent’s tourism, has addressed this by allowing only one ship to land passengers at a time, and never in groups of more than 100. For all its size, Antarctica is still a fragile environment. It is also potentially dangerous; ice, foul weather, poor communications and charts, and the isolation are particular hazards for shipping. In 2007, the MS Explorer, the first ® purpose-designed Antarctic cruise ship,

BEST FOR TAKING IT SERIOUSLY ® sank after hitting ice. Built in 1969, the vessel was a pioneer, with a strengthened hull. The accident was blamed on the captain, who had no experience of negotiating the ice in the Southern Ocean. Fortunately, the weather was good and there were other ships in the area. All 154 people on board were saved. If this was a wake-up call, the authorities have taken some rousing. The IAATO has amended its rules, particularly in tracking members’ vessels, yet the International Maritime Organisation is still drawing up a set of comprehensive safety regulations for ships operating around either pole. The Polar Code is unlikely to be in force before 2016.

SAIL AWAY


Alaska to JapAN LEAVE THE DINNER JACKET AT HOME AND GO HARDCORE ADVENTURING. BY PETER HUGHES The explorer Wilfred Thesiger thought that inflatable mattresses were for ‘pansies’. Heaven knows what he would have made of an expedition with butlers, and lotions by Bulgari. The definition of the word has changed since Sir Wilfred was braving Arabia’s Empty Quarter. The 120-passenger Silver Discoverer is a bespoke expedition ship which, following a refurb, was added to luxury cruise line Silversea’s highly successful fleet this spring. It is now one of a handful of small vessels that sail the fashionable cruise waters of the western Pacific; the Discoverer’s patch extends from Polynesia to the Sea of Okhotsk. I joined one of the ship’s first voyages north, sailing from Japan to Alaska via the Kuril Islands (an area disputed by the Japanese and the Russians) and the Aleutian Islands, a voyage of 4,282 miles, lasting 18 days. It was a passage to lands that few have heard of, let alone been to, and to realms of the natural world swarming with wildlife. We saw 106 different species of birds, from auklets and tufted puffins to Laysan albatrosses and squadrons of bald eagles. Among 11 different mammals we spotted were sea lions groaning, arctic foxes hunting, fin whales spouting, a humpback whale breaching and brown bears so close I could hear them breathe. Half the places we visited were uninhabited and inaccessible except by sea, and then only in a tough little Zodiac inflatable that can land on a beach. These unspoilt locations, above all, define expedition cruising. There are lectures rather than chorus lines, auklets not roulette, and on the Discoverer we needed neither flip-flops nor tuxedos. There wasn’t even sunshine until Alaska, just 50 shades of grey skies and sea. So forget all the cruise-ship clichés, except for the lavish meals: we may have been Thesigers by day, but we were voluptuaries at night.

SAIL AWAY Silversea (+44 844 251 0837; www.silversea.com) offers a 17-day cruise from Nome, Alaska to Otaru, Japan from £7,650 per person (based on two sharing) including all meals and drinks, but excluding flights

PHOTOGRAPH: VIKTOR CAP/IMAGEBRIEF

The three most important criteria when booking an Antarctic cruise are: 1. Itinerary The basic options are whether to concentrate on the Peninsula; to combine it with South Georgia and even the Falklands; or to head for the Ross Sea and the historic huts, sailing from New Zealand. 2. Type of ship The smaller the cruise ship, the more authentic the experience. One that accommodates about 150 passengers is ideal. It should carry a dedicated team of guides and lecturers, put people ashore in Zodiacs, and be ice-strengthened. Such vessels are not icebreakers, but they can push safely through sea ice as thick as 100cm. This, plus their Zodiacs, gives them access to more landing sites. 3. Safety Ensure the ship’s staff respect the frailties of the Antarctic and its wildlife. Check the cruise company is a member of IAATO (www.iaato.org) and bound by its strict safety and environmental protocols. All 49 cruise ships that visited the Antarctic this year were operated by IAATO members. However, membership is not mandatory. At the top of the luxury tree are the Silver Explorer (www.silversea.com) and the National Geographic Orion (www.expeditions.com). Both were purpose-built for expeditions, carrying 132 and 102 passengers respectively, and their fares for 10- to 14-day cruises to the Peninsula in December 2015 are comparable at around £650 per person a day. Less expensive is the Sea Explorer (www.noblecaledonia.co.uk), which carries 120 passengers and has two 23-night itineraries to the Peninsula in January and October 2015. From £7,995 per person (based on three sharing), including two nights in Buenos Aires and flights. For a really exclusive Antarctic expedition, there’s the 58-passenger Spirit Of Enderby (www.heritage-expeditions.com), which makes two month-long voyages a year from New Zealand to the Ross Sea, from about £12,425 per person (based on three sharing). Weather permitting, it lands at the Antarctic Heritage Trust-maintained huts (www.heritage-antarctica.org). Be warned: the trip is always heavily booked, and with the centenary in 2016 of Shackleton’s Endurance expedition, things will get especially busy.

BEST FOR VILLAGE GOSSIP

vIetnam to cAMBODIA

GET SWEPT UP WITH LIFE ON A VICTORIAN-STYLE MEANDER ALONG THE MEKONG. BY PETER HUGHES. PHOTOGRAPH BY PHILIP LEE HARVEY


T

he men on the riverbank seemed to be waving and we waved back. For three days, since entering Cambodia from Vietnam, we had been exchanging waves: in Vietnam people had been too busy to wave, but not in Cambodia. ‘I don’t think they are waving,’ said someone. ‘I think they’re telling us to go away.’ I looked again. The men were building a sandbag dam. And no, they were not waving but frowning, shouting too. Their gestures were unambiguous: they did not want the wake of a 48-passenger river cruiser washing over their barrier and into the village street. On a river cruise you’re not only close enough to life on the bank to touch it; occasionally you become part of it. Our passage was not as anti-social as it may sound. I was on the River Mekong in August, during the summer monsoon when the water is at its highest. There had been storms upstream in China. As every summer, the villages were not just at the mercy of the wash of passing ships, but of the climate all the way to the river’s source, 2,500 miles to the north in Tibet. Some were already inundated. Bicycles were wheeled down flooded streets; water lapped against the stilts on which the houses are built. Our afternoon landing was abandoned. In the words of the brochure, ‘Published itineraries are an indication only and subject to sudden change.’ My ship was the Mekong Pandaw, one of a fleet of river vessels built of timber and character. They look like Victorian pavilions, supposedly recreating the first-class decks of colonial river steamers. Victorians would feel at home. They might not understand the air-conditioning and Wi-Fi, the gym and cinema. They would certainly be bemused by the informality: you can wear shorts to dinner. But the dinner gong, the decorative palms, wicker chairs and the men who clean your shoes every time you return from the shore would all be familiar. As would the brass, teak and varnish. The ship is so heavily varnished it shines like a halfsucked toffee, and even the shower doors are wooden and louvred. Pandaw River Expeditions makes a point of not having minibars (‘tacky’), televisions (‘annoying’) or balconies. Instead, the cabins open on to a promenade deck where there are chairs. Better still, the top sun deck, shaded by awnings, extends the 200ft length of the

ship. There’s a bar at one end, sunbeds at the other and a pool table in the middle. The seven-night cruise sailed from the Mekong Delta, nearly two hours’ drive from Ho Chi Minh City. We cast off from the gnarled stones of an industrial quay, turned against the current and, amid a faint smell of fishmeal, headed upstream. The river, the colour of muddy puddles, was about 1,600ft wide. In our 300-mile voyage upstream it never got any smaller, or quieter. There was a constant snarl and splutter of passing craft. We anchored at night and by day could nose into the riverbank and walk straight into villages from a gangplank off the bow. In Vietnam the itinerary included a fish farm, sweet factory and brick works. When we crossed into Cambodia the country immediately changed. Gone were the power lines, riverside industry and 5am loudspeaker announcements. (‘Propaganda,’ explained one guide; ‘News,’ insisted his boss.) Now there were trees, rice fields and cows at the water’s edge. The tours changed too. No more workshops, but palaces, temples, monks and genocide. Some 17,000 people died at Choeung Ek, an innocuous meadow dappled by trees near Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital. It’s one of around 400 killing fields. At the centre is a tall tower, designed like a Buddhist stupa, with glass walls. Inside there are 8,000 human skulls. They’re arranged on shelves, children at the bottom. Their only identification is in little round school-room stickers, red and green, denoting a person’s gender. Evil has never released Choeung Ek from its infection. After heavy rain, human remains become exposed in the burial pits that have still to be excavated. A sign asks visitors not to remove bones. I left the ship at Kampong Cham, a five-hour coach ride from Siem Reap, where the cruise used to end. Two new bridges on the Mekong are too low for the Mekong Pandaw to pass. This means it can no longer enter Tonlé Sap, a UNESCO biosphere, and, with its floating villages, one of the most curious lakes in the world. A smaller Pandaw ship, the Angkor, can reach Siem Reap. At Kampong Cham we tied up to a banyan tree. On the quay, a woman was crushing sugar cane surrounded by piles of coconuts. A family arrived in a sampan, fastened their boat to our mooring line and cooked breakfast. We were part of river life again.

SAIL AWAY The Ultimate Travel Company (+44 20 3051 8098; www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk) offers a week-long Mekong Pandaw cruise as part of an 11-day trip through Vietnam and Cambodia from £2,480 per person, including all meals, local drinks, sightseeing and crew gratuities on board, stays in Park Hyatt hotels in Saigon and Siem Reap pre- and post-cruise, private transfers and Thai Airways flights. Pandaw River Expeditions is not running Mekong cruises between 21 March and 11 July 2015

BEST FOR OLD-SCHOOL SPARKLE

EN LAND TO new ORK ON THE QUEEN MARY 2 YOU CAN DRESS UP AND DANCE YOUR WAY ACROSS THE ATLANTIC, SAYS TARA ISABELLA BURTON. PHOTOGRAPH BY WHITNEY LAWSON

I

n the 40-plus years my grandmother has been crossing the Atlantic on Cunard ocean liners – first the Queen Elizabeth 2, then the Queen Mary 2 – she has never sat out a dance. Not that she has ever needed to. The Queen Mary 2, like its iconic forebears, offers passengers a retinue of Gentleman Dance Hosts: besuited in white dinner jackets and jaunty bow ties, waltzing with wallflowers for free passage. The Gentleman Dance Hosts were regarded as dashing young men: thrilling influences on impressionable ladies embarking on Grand Tours. To my grandmother, who made her first crossing as a honeymooner, the Cunard ocean liners represented impossible elegance and more than a little intrigue; it was here, after all, that she – a veteran ballroom dancer – first learned to samba. At my first dance lesson on board the Queen Mary 2, however, my Gentleman Dance Host,

though certainly dashing, is hardly young. Martin, with a sparkling bald head and a slight Bronx accent, looks well into his eighties, his steps so slow and measured that even I can follow them. The impressionable ladies of crossings past are now mainly widows and divorcees. Decades have passed since my grandmother’s first crossing, but on the Queen Mary 2 it’s barely 1960. The songs playing in the Queen’s Room – the largest shipboard ballroom in the world – range from ‘A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square’ to ‘Fly Me to the Moon’. ‘Informal’ dinner dress means jacket and tie; on three of the crossing’s seven nights, black tie is required. The bridge tables overlooking the portholes on Deck 2 are almost always full, the internet café inevitably empty. It is this defiantly stalwart aesthetic that gives the QM2 her atemporal charm. The ship is faithful to her demographic, and in

return the 2,500-odd passengers remain ferociously loyal to their ship; easily half of those I meet are on at least their second trip (this crossing’s record-holder, I learn, has spent the equivalent of four years on board). The ship displays minimal interest in catering to the tastes of the trendy. With the exception of the Canyon Ranch spa and the à la carte Todd English restaurant on Deck 8, there is little evidence of the kind of minimalist, designdriven aesthetic endemic to contemporary hotels. Everything on this 1,130ft, 17-storey behemoth feels big. The carpets are slightly too bright for the wood-panelled walls; the banisters never quite match the stairs. The coats of arms hanging in the Queen’s Room – cream-swirl walls and heavy blue velvet – veer just shy of tacky. I wouldn’t have it any other way. The great appeal of the Queen Mary 2, after all, is in

succumbing to the lure of this vanished world: afternoon teas – poured by liveried waiters balancing an unending procession of cakes – lull us through to evenings of indolence; and the ritual of dressing for dinner expands to encompass three languid hours. It becomes all too easy to pass the afternoon in bed – the 1,310 sun-dappled, impossibly comfortable staterooms, many with private balconies, do little to discourage indolence – staring at the waves, ordering sandwiches from room service or simply waiting for them to appear (service here borders on the clairvoyant; on the first night, my steward Julius – noticing that I had jotted a few notes on the back of a receipt – left a fresh Cunard pad on my desk). The uniform view over the Atlantic – sea foam and blue in varying shades of darkness, punctuated only intermittently by driftwood or whales – heightens the addictive aesthetic of aimlessness. Cunard

estimates that passengers on the Queen Mary 2 go through almost 1.4 million teabags a year. A few dozen, at least, were mine. To be sure, there’s no shortage of activities on board. A troupe of RADA actors lead vigorous workshops in storytelling and physical movement. A session on hat-decorating precedes the Royal Ascot Ball. Wilfried and Ilona – dance instructors doubling as Teutonic comic relief – give morning classes in foxtrot and ballroom. There are daily lectures by guest speakers (on my crossing, they ranged from Sue Cook to Wes Anderson), but even the most fascinating of these seem almost ancillary; and they are jarring reminders of a real world the Queen Mary 2 takes pains to avoid. The atmosphere of unreality is helped along by the ship’s most enjoyable convention: assigned dinnertime seating, masterminded by a seemingly omniscient maître d’ with a

suspiciously knowing smile. Diners at the Britannia Restaurant – used by most stateroom guests – keep the same dinner table for the entirety of the voyage, so intimacy with fellow travellers is virtually required. By the third course on day one, my table is sharing the kind of deeply personal anecdotes normally reserved for close relatives or priests. In the real world, we are strangers. But here on the Queen Mary 2, where time is meaningless, it feels like we’ve known each other for years.

SAIL AWAY Queen Mary 2 (+44 843 374 0000; www.cunard. co.uk) will make 20 seven- or eight-night crossings in 2015. Fares from Southampton to New York start at £1,149 per person for an inside cabin and £1,299 per person for a balcony cabin, including a return flight from New York, transfers and $80 per person onboard spending money December 2014 Cruise Guide 41

BEST FOR POOTLING ALONG THE WATERWAYS

Kerala

TO IMMERSE YOURSELF IN SOUTH INDIA’S LAIDBACK CULTURE, TAKE THE SLOW BOAT. BY SANDY BOLER. PHOTOGRAPH BY ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG

T

o those familiar with the gentle backwaters of Kerala, which meander out through the Malabar Coast to the Arabian Sea, where traditional rice boats ply a leisurely course, the idea of cruising along them in a luxury motor vessel might seem incongruous. But the Oberoi MV Vrinda allows these waterways to be explored in style, while in no way disturbing their harmony or ecology. From our hotel in Cochin, we travelled to Vembanad Lake; this would be our regular mooring spot each night, and the place from which we would set off toward Alleppey. On that first day, we sailed for four hours, past


the tall, slender coconut palms lining the canals, children splashing in the water. We returned to Vembanad at dusk, gazing out over the water as fishermen in their tiny boats cast their gill nets to catch karimeen, a great delicacy in Kerala, which we would enjoy later. Before getting ready for dinner, we set about exploring the boat. The Vrinda has eight deluxe cabins, each with air conditioning, a king-sized bed with wonderful pillows, a bathroom with a shower, and – the best feature – a huge, wide window at the foot of the bed, which provides a private movingpicture show of this beautiful place.

We had been promised a performance of Kathakali – a dramatic local form of dance – after dinner. As we moored at the jetty, we saw the dancers, all male, applying their elaborate make-up, transforming themselves into gods and warriors before they had even put on their costumes. After the show, we returned to the boat for drinks in the bar, then a dinner of Keralan specialities. After many years of travelling in India, this cuisine – mostly seafood, cooked in delicate spices – remains my favourite. An excellent European menu is also available, if you prefer.

BEST FOR TUCKING IN

venice to istanbul JANE ARCHER EATS HER WAY AROUND THE WORLD

H

There were 10 of us in the travelling party, of all ages, and it took no time to make new friends. Over the next two days, we transferred to small rice boats to explore some of the narrower backwaters that serve as the only means of transport for the farming communities dotted along them. We visited farms and paddy fields (all below sea level), communal Tharavad houses, and the Champakulam snake-boat yard where long, ornate vessels used for racing are kept. Among the few monuments are St Mary’s Syro-Malabar Church, reputed to have been founded by St Thomas in the fifth century;

the strange half-statue of Lord Buddha in Karumadi, and the 100-year-old Hindu temple to the Mother Goddess at Nedamudi, all of which bear witness to the mixture of beliefs in these ancient and intriguing backwaters.

SAIL AWAY Greaves Travel (+44 20 7487 9111; www.greavesindia.co.uk) offers a seven-day tour from £1,850 per person, based on two sharing, including flights, three nights at Brunton Boatyard with breakfast, three nights full-board on the Oberoi MV Vrinda, private sightseeing and transfers

eads it’s the Polo Grill, tails Red Ginger... Picking a restaurant on Oceania Cruises’s Riviera – it has six, plus a stylish dining room – is so difficult I’m flipping a coin. The company claims to be the foodie cruise line, and happily my expectations were met. I tried them all during my 11-night voyage from Venice to Istanbul. In the Polo Grill, I had a cooked-to-order steak that melted in the mouth; in Red Ginger, spicy noodles and a delicate Thai curry; at Jacques, good, honest, rustic French dishes including Canard à l’Orange. In Toscana, I worked my way through freshly cooked bread served with a choice of 10 varieties of olive oil, four balsamic vinegars and roasted garlic bulbs, before starting on the Italian menu. The chicken breast wrapped in prosciutto was very good, although more of an American take on Tuscan cuisine – hardly surprising given the company’s parentage and clientele. Unusually for a cruise line, there is no extra charge for dining in these four speciality restaurants. You are guaranteed one meal in each, with return visits allowed, also at no charge, if there is space. For the other two venues, there is a supplement: Privée, a private dining area where meals from the Polo Grill and Toscana can be mixed and matched, charges £150 for up to 10 people, while La Reserve serves seven-course, wine-pairing dinners at about £57 or £99 a head, depending on the menu. There is also Bon Appétit, the ship’s cookery school. I learnt to make tapas, but it also has classes in everything from Norwegian to Moroccan specialities. Lessons cost about £40. The interior of the Riviera is striking, particularly the Lalique staircase in the atrium and the exotic red-and-black decor in Red Ginger. I was in a Concierge cabin, which had a balcony and was spacious, with an attractive dark-wood finish. More opulent, however, are the three Owner’s Suites. Each is as big as some apartments (more than 2,000 square feet) and has a lobby with a grand piano.

SAIL AWAY An 11-night cruise from Venice to Istanbul costs £3,879 per person, including flights. +44 845 505 1920; www.oceaniacruises.com

WHOLE NEW WORLD

DECK PARTIES WITH DONALD DUCK? TEA WITH CINDERELLA? SCREAM FOR JOY OR… SCREAM? BY SARAH TURNER A Disney cruise is the ultimate branding exercise – after all, Mickey Mouse is literally woven into the bed linen and carpets of the ship. There’s no escape; you’re stuck in the middle of the ocean with Goofy and his high-energy pals as they bound along the decks. It’s a full-on experience, from the lifts with their supercalifragilistic soundtrack, to the excited little girls togged up in princess outfits and waiting to have their photographs taken, to round-the-clock film screenings and nightly shows. You’ll go ashore, of course: this year, Disney Magic will tootle around the Med, dropping anchor in Venice, Barcelona, Heraklion and Santorini among other places; Disney Wonder sails to Alaska, and many of the Caribbean cruises include a day at Castaway Cay, Disney’s very own island in the north of the Bahamas, where you’ll share sand with Lilo and Stitch. When it comes down to it, though, the reason you book a Disney cruise – and there are now four to choose from – is because it puts children right at the centre. And it does this brilliantly; other kids’ clubs will look distinctly lacklustre in comparison. The clubs are banded into different age groups (though siblings can stay together) and led by relentlessly cheerful and energetic staff. There’s great stuff to do – your child can become an Avenger, delve beneath the supersized bed of Toy Story’s Andy, creep along secret passages – and a very vigilant check-in and check-out process. Up on deck, the fun continues with waterslides, multiple swimming pools and an adults-only area with its own pool, plus a spa. At night, there are shows on the top deck, pirate nights, film screenings and unlimited, help-yourself ice cream. With their giant funnels and old-fashioned promenades, the boats provoke a winning sense of nostalgia, and this is Disney’s secret weapon – the cruise provides a chance for everyone to return to an old-fashioned ideal of happiness. The food, on the whole, is good, even if the ‘rotational’ dining system – you change restaurants each night, accompanied by your designated waiter – feels a little regimented. However, any gripes fade when presented with the joy of eating at Animator’s Palate, available on Disney Magic and Disney Fantasy. Here, both kids and adults are given pens and paper, and their artwork is whisked away early in the meal. Later on, your drawings appear in a special animation, set to the music of Fantasia: a marriage of budding creativity, technology and sheer pizzazz. Let’s face it, Disney delivers – powerfully if you’re under six, reassuringly if you’re a parent. www.disneycruise.com


Passion A N A F F O R DA B L E LU X U RY

AWARD-WINNING MID-SIZE SHIPS DESTINATION SPECIALISTS FINEST CUISINE AT SEA COUNTRY CLUB CASUAL AMBIANCE EXTRAORDINARY VALUE

Your WORLD. Your WAY. CALL 0845 505 1920 | VISIT US AT OCEANIACRUISES.COM

where T E M P T I NG meets U N FORG E T TA BL E

(036,1*&7,5,1(3$,453(4)(&6/;9,6+71)24*(66$%/((:3(4,(1&(521%2$4'274?8(56$45+,350%$4.21$ -2741(;2)6+(3$/$6(9,6+21(2)6+(?1(569,1(&(//$45$65($$1'(:3/24(+$1'521&22.,1*'(021564$6,215,1 2747/,1$4; 465(16(434(5(16('%;Food & Wine ®0$*$<,1(8(4;'(/,&,275(1&2716(44(&+$4*(56+(527/ )246+(82;$*($+($'216$&6;2744$8(/42)(55,21$/&$// )24024(,1)240$6,21$1'$%42&+74( 248,5,6www.hollandamerica.co.uk.

= = = =

# =

=

== =!=

=

" =

Conde Nast UK 12/14

Recommend Documents