MODULE 2 103.KK.02
BLOUSE PATTERN MAKING STANDARD COMPETENCE BASIC COMPETENCE
: PATTERN MAKING : BLOUSE PATTERN MAKING
WRITTEN BY: HENNY, S.Pd. NIP 196909101994032007 PALEMBANG GOVERNMENT
THE MINISTRY OF EDUCATION, YOUTH AND SPORT STATE VOCATIONAL HIGH SCHOOL 6 PALEMBANG Jl. Major Ruslan Telp./Fax. (0711)350954, Production Unit (0711)378991 Hotel (0711)378993 Palembang 30114 Website: www.smkn6palembang.net E-mail:
[email protected]
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PREFACE
Always our gratitude to Allah SWT have mercy and grace so the authors could complete this module properly. This module is entitled “Pattern Making” which consists of 4 parts, namely: 1. Skirt Pattern Making Module 2. Blouse Pattern Making Module 3. Shirt Pattern Making Module 4. Vest Pattern Making Module This module includes material about definition, guideline in pattern making appropriate to design and steps to make draft material. Authors realize that this module is still far from being perfect. Therefore, all suggestions and constructive criticisms will be greatly appreciated and wellreceived. Last but not least, Authors thank to all people has participated in the preparation of this module. I hope this module will be useful for teacher and students in State Vocational High School 6 Palembang.
Palembang, Author,
April 2012
HENNY, S.Pd. NIP 196909101994032007
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CONTENTS
PAGES
PREFACE ........................................................................................................... ii CONTENTS ........................................................................................................ iii MODULE POSITION MAP ............................................................................... iv GLOSSARY........................................................................................................ v
CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION A. Description ..................................................................................
1
B. Prerequisite .................................................................................
1
C. Module User’s Guide ..................................................................
1
CHAPTER II LEARNING ACTIVITY A. The Objectives of Learning ........................................................
2
B. Student Lesson Plan ....................................................................
2
C. Material Description ...................................................................
2
D. Practice Assignment ...................................................................
13
E. Formative Test ............................................................................
13
F. Summary .....................................................................................
13
REFERENCES.................................................................................................
14
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MODULE POSITION MAP BASIC VOCATIONAL COMPETENCE
iv
GLOSSARY
1. Design
=
Structure of form, plan, motif
2. Lining
=
Is coating material fabric which covers main material in part or in whole.
3. Kup
=
Folded line to form women’s body
4. Drafting
=
The estimation of materials used
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CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION A. Description By learning this module, students are expected to have knowledge and skills
about techniques and steps to make blouse pattern based on design, they are able to: 1. Analyze blouse design 2. Take blouse measurement 3. Make basic body pattern with scale 1:4 4. Make blouse pattern in according to design with scale 1:4 5. Make draft materials
B. Prerequisite
Before learn this module, students should be learnt supporting modules. The modules include taking measurement and making women basic pattern.
C. Module Instruction
The instructions for students about how to learn this module are: 1. Learning steps should be followed 2. Identify tools and materials to make blouse pattern 3. Analyze blouse design 4. Take measurement for blouse pattern 5. Make basic body pattern with scale 1:4Membuat pola dasar badan dengan skala 1:4 6. Make blouse pattern according to design with scale 1:4 7. Make draft material
In the end of this activity, students submit their work and packing up their equipment. Follow all instructions in this module !
CHAPTER II TEACHING AND LEARNING ACTIVITY A. Objectives
After learning this blouse pattern making module, students are expected to be able to :
Make blouse pattern based on design
Make draft material
B. Student Lesson Plan
Standard Competence
: Making pattern
Basic Competence
: Making blouse pattern
Time
: 1080 minutes
Learning
Material
Time
activities
I
Definition of blouse
20
II
Prepare tools and materials to make blouse pattern
20
III
Analyze design that will be made
30
IV
Make basic pattern and pattern drafting blouse with
360
V
scale 1:4 Make blouse pattern appropriate with actual
460
VI
size
170
VII
draft materials
20
Packing up equipment practice Total time
1080 minutes
C. Material Description C.1. Definition of blouse
Blouse is the clothing worn on the upper body, has a cover on the front or back, worn with pants, skirt, or sarong. Blouse is broadly classified into 2 types, those are: 1. Outer blouse, the blouse is worn outside the skirt or pants.
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2. Inner blouse, the blouse is worn by insert it into skirt or pants. Normally this kind of blouse has a straight model until hip limit and sometimes more loose than outer blouse The kinds of blouses according to the time and opportunity to be worn: 1. Blouses for at home, choose a simple design and little ornamental lines. 2. Working blouses, choose a design which express the impression of active such as pleated garments. 3. Blouses for recreation, should choose a design that is rather loose and flexible 4. Blouse for party, choose an attractive design and become attention centre
C.2. Tools and Materials
Tools:
Materials:
1. Stationery
1. Pattern Book
Pencil
2. Pattern paper / tracing paper
Ruler
3. Doorslag paper
Eraser
4. Paper glue
2. Pattern Drawing Tools
Hip curve
L-square
Scale
Measuring tape
3. Paper cutting scissors
3
C.3. Making a Fabric Basic Pattern Basic Pattern of Women’s Body Pola dasar badan wanita Scale 1:4
Make basic pattern for upper and lower body with the following size: * Body Girth
= 88 cm
* Length of Back
= 36 cm
* Waist Girt
= 72 cm
* Width of Back
= 34 cm
* Neck Girth
= 36 cm
* Height of Chest
= 16 cm
* Width of Front
= 32 cm
* Height of Hip
= 18 cm
body
= 13 cm
* Hip Girth
= 94 cm
*
length
of
shoulder
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Description of Pattern
The back pattern a – b
= 2 cm
b – c
= the length of back
b – b1
= ½ the length of back
b – b2
= 9 cm
c – d
= height of hips
a – a1
= 7 cm
a1 – a2 = length of shoulder a2 – e
= 4 cm
a1 – e
= draw line p shoulder
b2 – f
= ½ width of back
b1 – g
= ¼ Girth – 1 cm
c – c1
= ¼ Waist Girth + 3 cm + 1 cm
d – d1
= ¼ Hip Girth – 1 cm
The front pattern A – B
= 8 cm
A – C
= Length of Back + 2 cm
B – B2 = 5 cm C – D
= Height of back
A – A1 = 7 cm A1 – A2 = Length of Shoulder A2 – E = 4 cm A1 – E = Draw line p. shoulder B2 – F = ½ Width of chest B1 – G = ¼ Body girth + 1 cm C – C1 = ¼ Waist girth + 3 cm + 1 cm D – D1 = ¼ Hip girth + 1 cm
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SKETCH I
Design Analysis:
Blouse design I is blouse for party with style modification Javanese blouse (kebaya)
V - neckline
Sleek long sleeve
Use sengkelit button on the front
The line of front Lining on chest has heart shape
Dart in the front and back of blouse
SKETCH II
Design Analysis:
Blouse design II is blouse for work
Half stand collar
Sleek short sleeve
Use button on the front
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PATTERN DRAFTING OF BLOUSE DESIGN I Scale 1:4 1. THE FRONT BLOUSE PATTERN BLOUSE PATTERN
2.
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THE
BACK
3. THE FRONT LINING PATTERN PATTERN
4. THE BACK LINING
5. THE FONT COATING PATTERN 1 PATTERN 1
6. THE BACK COATING
7. PATTERN OF CLEAVAGE LAYER 2
8. PATTERN OF FRONT
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9. SLEEK SLEEVE PATTERN Scale 1:4
SIZE:
Armhole girth : measured from L.K the front sleeve blouse + the back : 44 cm
Height of top sleeve
: 13 cm
Length of sleeve
: 56 cm
The end of arm girth
: 24 cm
DESCRIPTION :
A – B = Sleeve length
A – C = Height of top sleeve
A – D = A – E = ½ armhole girth
A – D = Divided by 4
A – E = Divided by 3
B – F = B – 6 = ½ The end of arm girth
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PATTERN DRAFTING OF BLOUSE DESIGN II Scale 1:4 1. THE FRONT BLOUSE PATTERN PATTERN
3. SLEEVE PATTERN
4. HALF STAND COLLAR PATTERN
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2. THE BACK BLOUSE
C.4. Making Draft Fabric
Fabric for party blouse, brocade tile : length 2 m, width 120 cm
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Lining fabric for blouse party, satin : length 1 m, width 115 cm
12
D. Task Practice
Prepare basic pattern of upper and lower body with your own size!
Make blouse pattern according to design with scale 1:4 !
Assessment NO.
EVALUATION CRITERIA
POINTS
1.
Preparing tools and materials
10%
2.
Accuracy and precision of pattern
20%
3.
Accuracy of pattern size
50%
4.
Accuracy of pattern marking
10%
5.
Cleanliness and neatness of pattern
10%
Total Point
SCORE
100%
E. Formative Test
Questions 1. What is the definition of blouse as you know! 2. Write down 3 types of size needed to make a sleeve pattern!
Answers 1. Blouse is clothing worn in upper body, having a cover at the front and the back. 2. Three types of size to make sleeve length pattern are : 1. Armhole girth 2. Width of top sleeve 3. Length of sleeve
F. Summary
Blouse is clothing worn in upper body, having a cover at the front and the back.
Blouse is usually worn with pants, skirt, or sarong.
Blouse can be made with or without lining.
Blouse is broadly classified into 2 types, those are: outer blouse and inner blouse.
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REFERENCES 1. Ernawati dkk, 2008. Tata Busana Jilid 3 . Jakarta. Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan. 2. Winarti Z., 1998. Pembuatan Pola Blus. Jawa Barat. PPP6K. 3. Zardawatni, 1996/1997. Pembuatan Blus. Jakarta. PPP6K. 4. Sanny Poespo, 2001. Pola Busana Wanita. Yogyakarta. Kanisius.
Approved by The Vice Principle Curriculum,
Palembang, April 2012 The Subject Teacher,
of
Henny, S.Pd NIP.196909101994032007
Drs. H. Zulfikri, M.Pd NIP.196406121989031012
Acknowledged by The Principal,
Dra. Hj. Natika, MM NIP.195612221983032002
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