AQ Rolex Revolution 2008

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The Art of Fine Timepieces

A

ntiquorum, the world’s leading auction house specializing in horology, recently celebrated its 30-year anniversary. Antiquorum has carved its own unparalleled niche in the auction world by cultivating a thriving collector’s market for timepieces worldwide. Established in Geneva in 1974, with the addition of its New York affiliate Antiquorum USA in 1994, the company has continually realized the most impressive world records for sales of watches, wristwatches, clocks, marine chronometers, and regulators at auction. Antiquorum constantly obtains the highest prices for timepieces. An impressive 44 of the 62 watches sold publicly by a major auction house for over SFr. 1,000,000 were sold by Antiquorum. In 2002, Antiquorum set the all-time world record for a wristwatch at auction, selling a unique 1939 platinum Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 1415 for US$ 4,026,524 (SFr. 6,603,500) - more than double the previous world record. A perpetually innovative source for collectors, in the early 1980s Antiquorum pioneered the sale of wristwatches at auction, creating a new and exciting market. Next came the thematic auction devoted to a single subject, the first of which was the Art of Patek Philippe held in 1989, the 150th anniversary year of that prestigious watchmaking firm. Antiquorum regularly offers thematic sales at which enthusiasts may enrich their collections and, through Antiquorum’s authoritative and informative catalogues, acquire invaluable knowledge on each specific subject. In 2005, the historic thematic auction "The Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin" achieved a total of US$ 15,110,000 (SFr. 18,123,069). A record for Vacheron Constantin, this was also the second best result, after Patek Philippe, for a single-brand sale. Among the world records: the “Tour de l’Ile”, at US$ 1,564,000 (SFr. 1,876,250), set a world record for a contemporary wristwatch and the “King Fouad I”, at US$ 2,755,000 (SFr. 3,306,250), achieved the highest price ever paid for a Vacheron Constantin watch. In 2006, the Mondani Collection of 309 Rolex Wristwatches realized the astounding total of SFr. 11,037,278. Several world records were set, most significantly by Ref. 4113, a fly-back chronograph that sold for SFr. 738,500, the highest price ever attained by a Rolex watch. The total for the Omegamania auction in April 2007 was SFr. 6,536,911 (US$ 5,540,000), three times the overall estimate. Numerous world records were achieved, including the highest price for an Omega watch at auction, for the 1958 “Platinum Constellation Grand Luxe”, which sold for SFr. 413,700 (US$ 351,000). Resolutely avant-garde, Antiquorum was the first auction house to offer full online service at www.antiquorum.com. There, clients may place absentee bids or register to bid in real time during the auction. The site also offers access to auction catalogues (complete with images and condition reports), sales results, a watch database, and biographies of its experts, as well as information on books published by Antiquorum Editions, and Antiquorum’s activities worldwide. Antiquorum holds ten auctions a year, in Geneva, New York and Hong Kong, with previews held in major cities worldwide. In addition to its auction centers in Geneva, New York, and Hong Kong, Antiquorum maintains offices and agents in Paris, Milan, London, Munich, Shanghai, Tokyo, and Russia. With its internationally recognized staff of watch experts providing unsurpassed expertise and services and ts dedicated pursuit of innovative auction methods, Antiquorum continues, more than ever before, to make history in time.

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Revolution: The Evolution of the Rolex Sport Watch Property of Various Owners to be offered for sale by auction at the

The New York TimeZONE The Fuller Building 595 Madison Avenue, 5th Floor, New York, NY 10022 Tel. + 1 212 750 1103

Thursday, April 17, 2008 Session 1 : lots

1 - 111, at 11:00 a.m.

Session 2 : lots 112 - 270, at 2:00 p.m.

The Fuller Building, 595 Madison Avenue, 5th Floor, New York, NY, 10022. Tel. + 1 212 750 1103 Fax. + 1 212 750 6127 Julien Schaerer, Principal Auctioneer, License No. 1266346 Disclaimer: Rolex is a registered trademark of Rolex USA, Inc. Antiquorum and the present auction are not affiliated with Rolex USA, Inc. or any other watch company in any way. Copyright© 2008 by Antiquorum USA, Inc. No part of this catalogue may be reproduced or transmitted without the express written permission of Antiquorum USA, Inc. 2


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AUCTION PREVIEW The timepieces for this auction will be on view as follows:

HONG KONG

GENEVA

Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd. Suite 1405, 9 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong Tel.+ 852 2522 4168

Antiquorum’s Showroom 2, rue du Mont-Blanc, 1201 Geneva, Switzerland Tel.+ 41 (0)22 909 28 50

Saturday, March 29 & Sunday, March 30: 11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

Monday, April 7 & Tuesday, April 8: 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

BEIJING

LOS ANGELES

Tourneau 1F01, No. A2, Kun Lun Gallery Xinyuan South Road Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel.+86 21 6335 1268

Hours Minutes Seconds The Beverly Hilton 9876 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, California Tel. + 1 310 274 4710

Tuesday, April 1 & Wednesday, April 2: 11:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

Thursday, April 10: 11:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

TOKYO

THOUSAND OAKS

Rodeo Drive - Jiyugaoka Yakumo 3-24-9 Yakum, Meguro-ku, Tokyo Tel.+81 3 3239 8515

Sherwood Country Club The Fairway Room 320 West Stafford Road, Thousand Oaks, California Tel: +1 805 436 3036

Friday, April 4: 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.; 7 p.m. - 9 p.m. Cocktail party

Friday, April 11: 4:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. Mandatory RSVP Please call concierge at +1 805 436 3036 Fee: $ 50 (cocktails & hors d’oeuvres will be served) * Please note as this is a private club, there is a no denim or cell phone policy. Please also remember to bring driver's license for id purposes.

& Saturday, April 5: 11:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

NEW YORK The New York TimeZone The Fuller Building, 595 Madison Avenue, 5th Floor, New York, NY Tel. +1 212 750 1103 Sunday, April 13: 2 p.m. - 7 p.m. Monday, April 14 to Wednesday, April 16: 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. & Thursday, April 17: from 9:00 a.m.

Online Viewing Approximately two weeks prior to the auction the catalogue for the traditional auction may be viewed at www.antiquorum.com. A selection of important timepieces will be shown from different angles in accordance with their esthetic, historical and technical interest. This service enables clients worldwide to view the auction collection even when they are unable to attend the pre-auction exhibition. 3


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IMPORTANT NOTICES Please refer to the Conditions of Sale printed in the back of the auction catalogue for further information.

STATEMENT

OF

CONDITION

APPROXIMATE EXCHANGE RATES

Before the sale, all lots may be examined during the exhibition times listed in the catalogue. All interested persons are advised to personally examine the condition of the objects prior to purchase. Buyers, including, without limitation, bidder’s representatives and auction agents, are understood to have examined all lots which they purchase and to accept them as they are at the moment of “knockdown” and sale, and not necessarily as described in any written material or oral communications. Those persons interested in purchasing any of the lots being sold shall be responsible for examining the lots personally to confirm their actual AS IS” condition. All lots are sold “A according to their condition at the moment of “knock-down” and sale. Neither Antiquorum SA. nor the Seller have any responsibility whatsoever for any defect or deterioration of any lot.

WRISTWATCHES, AND CLOCKS

POCKET WATCHES

The timekeeping of watches, clocks and chronometers cannot be guaranteed under any circumstances. Buyers are advised that water-resistant and waterproof watches have been opened by Antiquorum’s experts at the cataloging stage to allow for the accurate

description of movements. These watches may also have been opened at various times during viewings preceding the auction. Antiquorum USA cannot under any circumstance guarantee that these watches are water-resistant or waterproof at the time of purchase. Buyers of water-resistant and waterproof watches are strongly encouraged to have such watches inspected by a competent watchmaker of their choice with respect to such attributes. Any opinions on the condition of the timepiece lots described in this catalogue have been established by Antiquorum’s experts and watchmakers. Such statements are given on the basis of the age of the timepiece and of the techniques used at the time of manufacture. Antiquorum’s opinion on the condition of any timepiece may appear to be in contradiction with that of important watch manufacturers today, as timepiece manufacturers base their judgments on the condition of vintage watches according to the techniques used in their workshops today. Any such statement on condition made by Antiquorum USA hereunder is merely the opinion of Antiquorum USA and does not constitute a representation or warranty by Antiquorum USA.

At the time of printing the catalogue, the following approximate exchange rates were applicable to the US dollar: 1 US$ = Euro:

0,66

SFr.:

1,04

UK£:

0,50

Yen: 103,06 HK$:

7,78

Please note that the above information is purely indicative and intended as a guide only. Consequently, the above rates should NOT be taken into consideration at the time of the auction or the silent sales, nor for any bidding purposes. Antiquorum declines any responsibility regarding these exchange rates.

IMPORT/EXPORT RESTRICTIONS AND TAXES Certain items including items made of tortoiseshell or ivory, and wristwatches with crocodile watch bands may be subject to importation restrictions in certain countries. Please consult your local customs authority for information about importing items made of these materials. The Buyer is responsible for the payment of all applicable import and export duties and taxes relating to the lots purchased.

SHIPPING AND INSURANCE Winning lots are exported immediately after the sale to the Antiquorum office nearest to the client: European buyers’ lots are sent to the Geneva office, American buyers’ lots are sent to the New York office and Asian buyers’ lots are sent to the Hong Kong office. 1% of hammer price will be charged to cover the insurance liability, as according to law; once the hammer falls the buyer is responsible for the insurance of the lot. IMPORTANT NOTICE REGARDING IMPORTATION TO THE UNITED STATES United States laws restrict the import of Rolex watches. Antiquorum cannot arrange the delivery of these watches to the United States due to these restrictions. The buyer is responsible for collecting purchased property in the country of sale. Buyers are also advised that Antiquorum will remove bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) prior to shipping lots abroad. Buyers are responsible for compliance with any applicable export and import regulations of the United States Department of Fish and Wildlife Services. Buyers must consult their local customs authority for information about importing items such as stated above. The Buyer is responsible for the payment of all applicable import and export duties and taxes relating to the lots purchased.

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Antiquorum USA, Inc., The Fuller Building 595 Madison Avenue, 5th Floor, New York, NY 10022, USA TEL.+ 1 212 750 1103 / FAX + 1 212 750 6127 www.antiquorum.com Email: [email protected]

Bid Form

Revolution: The Evolution of the Rolex Sport Watch New York - Thursday, April 17, 2008 FAMILY NAME (in capital letters):

NAME:

ADDRESS: ZIP / POSTAL CODE:

CITY:

COUNTRY: EMAIL (Required):

TELEPHONE (Required):

FAX:

Please provide credit card information (for reference purposes only). Please note that accepted forms of payment are cash, wire transfer, or check. No credit cards will be accepted. Please attach a photocopy of your passport or identity card.

첸 첸

AMEX VISA

첸 첸

DINERS MASTERCARD

Exp. Date:

/

Buyer's premium: 20% of hammer price on each lot up to and including US$80,000 plus 18% of any amount in excess of US$80,001 until US$200,000 plus 12% of any amount in excess of US$200,001.

첸 Absentee (Written) Bid

Please check one:

첸 Telephone Bid

Please bid on my behalf for the following lot(s) up to the maximum price(s) (excluding Buyer’s premium, and any applicable taxes) mentioned below, purchasing as much below my indicated limit(s) as possible. I hereby agree and acknowledge that Antiquorum is not responsible for failing to execute such bids or for any errors or omissions in connection therewith. By signing this form, I have read, understood and agree to be bound by the Conditions of Sale and Important Notices contained in the catalogue for this sale. I hereby agree and acknowledge that I am obligated to purchase and shall have no right to revoke acceptance of any and all lots for which I am the highest bidder. Winning lots are exported immediately after sale to Antiquorum offices corresponding to client’s address. Please refer to the “Shipping & Insurance” section at the beginning of the catalogue for details.

Signature (Required)

Date

LOT No.

BID LIMIT IN US$

For credit limits above US$ 20,000, first time bidders are required to submit the credit reference information in relation with the amount they bid for. While we take care to execute all written bids as submitted by our clients, we regret that we cannot accept responsibility for errors, omissions or late arriving bids.

THIS DOCUMENT CAN BE FAXED to + 1 212 750 6127 For online interactive bidding or online absentee bids please register online at www. antiquorum.com.


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CONTACT DIRECTORS

IN CHARGE

- NEW

SALE INFORMATION

YORK

Absentee bids Accounting Buyers & Vendors

EVAN ZIMMERMANN President and Managing Director English

Linda Gould Eddie Ramcharran Saori Omura

Tel. + 1 212 750 1103 Fax + 1 212 750 6127

JULIEN SCHAERER Director and Watch Expert French - English - German

SALE CENTERS

ERICH LORENZ Horological Consultant English - German

NEW YORK Antiquorum USA, Inc. The Fuller Building, 595 Madison Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10022 USA Tel. +1 212 - 750 1103 Fax. +1 212 - 750 6127 Email: [email protected]

BERNARD BIEGER Horological Consultant English - German

MICHELLE R. HALPERN Public Relations & Marketing Manager English - French - Danish

GENEVA

EDDIE RAMCHARRAN

Antiquorum SA 2, rue du Mont-Blanc, 1211 Geneva 1 Switzerland Tel. +41 (0)22 909 28 50 Fax. +41 (0)22 909 28 60 Email: [email protected]

Accounting English

SAORI OMURA Buyers & Vendors Manager English - Japanese

LINDA GOULD

HONG KONG

Business Manager English

Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd. Suite 1405, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong Tel. +852 2522 4168 Fax. +852 2522 4138 Email: [email protected]

PETER YUSZK Shipping Manager English

MARIEME DJIGO Administrative Assistant English - French

ROBERT ATKINSON

ANTIQUORUM NEW YORK ONLINE HELP LINE: + 1 212 750 4134

Photography

Special editorial contribution by Marc Berliner, Daniel Bourn (London Watch Company), James Dowling & Ed Delgado.

Please note that this line is RESERVED STRICTLY for online bidders with connection failures.

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THE AUCTION PROCESS The auction process is not as daunting as you may think, especially if you have selected Antiquorum as your auctioneer. Antiquorum and its team of experts strive to help you, the client, buy and sell at auction with ease and confidence. To walk you through the process, Antiquorum has outlined the important steps you should know in order to successfully purchase or consign timepieces at auction.

The Buyer THE AUCTION CATALOGUE (printed or online) Lot descriptions provide technical data carefully compiled by our experts for each lot in the sale and are often enhanced by historical or biographical comments. • Estimates are listed at the end of each lot description and are an indication of the price range the lot is expected to fetch. Estimates do not include the buyer’s premium or sales tax. • An estimate noted by three stars * * *, advises clients to contact Antiquorum for more information. • Condition Reports are given for each lot in the catalogue based on a grading system developed by Antiquorum’s experts. This grading system is explained at the beginning of the auction catalogue. • Buyers are advised to read the Conditions of Sale (at the back of the auction catalogue or online) and Important Notices (at the beginning of the auction catalogue or online) before bidding at auction. • Auction catalogues for traditional auctions can be viewed at www.antiquorum. com: click on the option “Online Services” , then click on “Online Catalogue Database” and select the relevant online auction catalogue. AUCTION PREVIEWS Previews are conducted by Antiquorum prior to each auction and details of these exhibitions are found at the beginning of every catalogue or online. Previews are open to the public and prospective buyers are encouraged to view and examine lots offered for sale prior to making their purchases. REGISTERING TO BID IN THE TRADITIONAL AUCTION

Each client wishing to bid at auction is required to register before the sale. Clients may register in advance during any of the preview exhibitions scheduled prior to the sale (see “Exhibitions” at the beginning of the catalogue); or through Antiquorum USA in person, at 595 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10022,

Tel. + 1 212 750 1103. First time buyers are encouraged to register in advance so that the required credit references can be processed in a timely fashion. Clients can also register the morning of the sale, beginning at 9:00 a.m., at the auction venue. Clients will be able to pick up their bidding paddles on the day of the sale, prior to the auction, just outside the saleroom. BIDDING IN THE SALEROOM Lots offered for sale are auctioned in numerical order as they appear in the catalogue. The lot being auctioned is announced by the auctioneer, as well as shown live or illustrated on a screen at the front of the saleroom. Bidders are advised to have the auction catalogue to hand during the sale for reference. ABSENTEE BIDDING (written bids) If you are unable to bid in person at the auction, you can submit an absentee or written bid. Bid forms are found in every auction catalogue, as well as on Antiquorum’s website at www.antiquorum.com, and can be requested at preview exhibitions or from any Antiquorum office (see the list of worldwide offices). Bid forms should be completed and signed, then faxed to Antiquorum at + 1 212 750 6127. Absentee bids will be processed on your behalf at auction by Antiquorum’s staff. This service is free of charge and Antiquorum’s staff will execute the bids at the lowest possible price, taking into account the reserve and other bids. Antiquorum cannot be held responsible for errors, omissions or late-arriving bids. In the event that two identical bids are received, the first bid received by Antiquorum will take precedence. It is very important for the bidder to list a daytime telephone number in case any part of the bid form is unclear. It is advisable to send the bid form in good time before the auction, especially for new buyers whose bank references will be checked. 7

Bids submitted in a foreign currency will be converted to US dollars using the exchange rate on the day of the sale. Please note that all bid cancellations must be received in writing. TELEPHONE BIDS You can also participate at Antiquorum’s auctions by telephone. This service is free of charge and telephone bids will be executed by an Antiquorum staff member in the saleroom. Clients are advised to make arrangements for this procedure at least two days before the sale. All telephone bids must be confirmed in writing on a completed bid form. Please provide the telephone number(s) at which you can be reached during the sale. Antiquorum will call you during the auction about 3 to 10 lots before the lot(s) on which you wish to bid. Languages available for telephone bidding at Antiquorum are English, French, German, Italian and Japanese. Please note that all bid cancellations must be received in writing. THE ONLINE BIDDER REGISTRATION

The registration process for online interactive bidding and online absentee bidding is similar to that used for traditional telephone and absentee bidding. On Antiquorum’s fully secure website, www.antiquorum.com, the following steps need to be completed by prospective buyers:


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ONLINE INTERACTIVE AND ABSENTEE BIDDING SYSTEM

LOT 133 So-called "Paul Newman" Rolex Oyster Cosmograph “Daytona", Ref. 6263. Produced circa 1980. Very fine and important, waterresistant, 18K yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and with black antireflect bezel graduated to 200 units per hour. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, Triplock crown and chronograph pushers, tachometer graduation on the bezel. D. Two-tone black and beige with applied gold indexes and tritium dots,subsidiary "guilloché" sunk seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute registers dials. Tritium-coated gold "bâton" hands. M. Cal. 13''', rhodiumplated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance So-called "PaulBreguet Newman" adjusted to 3positions, shock-absorber, self-compensating Rolex Oyster Cosmograph balance-spring.Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Approx. overall length 185 mm. “Daytona", Ref. 6263. Produced

LOT 133

CHF USD

55,000

CHF

50,000 40,000 GRADING SYSTEM

CHF

42,860

C

(7,800 USD)

2 - 01

D

2

M

C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, Triplock crown and chronograph pushers, tachometer graduation on the bezel. D. Two-tone black and beige with applied gold indexes and tritium dots,subsidiary "guilloché" sunk seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute registers dials. Tritium-coated gold "bâton" hands. M. Cal. 13''', rhodiumplated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance +20,000 CHF +30,000 CHF +40,000 CHF So-called "Paul Newman" adjusted to 3positions, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring.Dial, case and movement signed.Rolex Oyster Cosmograph YOUR PREVIOUS BIDS: CURRENT BID: AGAINST YOU (15,600 USD) (23,400 USD) (31,200 USD) Diam. 37 mm. Approx. overall length 185 mm. “Daytona", Ref. 6263. Produced

CHF

55,000

USD

LOT 133

Bidding in progress ...

LOT 133

+10,000 CHF

2

circa 1980. Very fine and important, waterresistant, 18K yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch with round AAA button chronograph, registers, tachometer and with black antireflect bezel graduated to 200 units per hour.

CHF

circa 1980. Very fine and important, waterresistant, 18K yellow gold gentleman's wristwatch with round AAA button chronograph, registers, tachometer and with black antireflect bezel graduated to 200 units per hour.

50,000

CHF GRADING 40,000 SYSTEM

42,860 DELAY TIME: 4 SEC.

C

2

D

2 - 01

2

M

CURRENT BIDDER:

Internet bid (paddle no.: 8889)

MY PAGE

TIME LEFT TO BID: C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, Triplock crown and chronograph pushers, tachometer graduation on the bezel. D. Two-tone black and beige with applied gold indexes and tritium dots,subsidiary "guilloché" sunk seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute registers dials. Tritium-coated gold "bâton" hands. M. Cal. 13''', rhodiumplated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3positions, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring.Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Approx. overall length 185 mm.

SELECT YOUR BID INCREMENT:

+10,000 CHF

+20,000 CHF

+30,000 CHF

+40,000 CHF

(7,800 USD)

(15,600 USD)

(23,400 USD)

(31,200 USD)

GRADING SYSTEM DELAY TIME: 4 SEC.

C

• Register by providing the bidder’s name, address, telephone and fax numbers, email address, credit card details and a requested credit limit for online bidding. NOTE: First time bidders are required to provide banking references. In some cases, Antiquorum may impose a credit limit to the online applicant, in which case the amended credit limit will be communicated to the client upon receipt of the registration form. • Accept Antiquorum’s terms and conditions of sale • Submit registration form to the Antiquorum’s fully secure website

2

D

2 - 01

M

2

AAA

• Approved bidders will receive an email notification with a paddle number and PIN (Personal Identity Number) • Registered online bidders are strongly encouraged to familiarize themselves with Antiquorum’s online interactive bidding by using the auction simulator on www.antiquorum.com Once the auction catalogue is available online, with the use of a paddle and PIN, prospective buyers can place absentee bids online. Absentee bids are accepted online up until three hours prior to the start of the live interactive auction. On auction day, registered online bidders connect to www.antiquorum.com to

(*) The

US$ US$ US$ US$ US$

follow instructions for live interactive bidding, using their paddle and PIN numbers. For collectors who simply want to follow the live auction in progress, no advance registration is needed to view a live internet broadcast made available on auction day. For additional information about the online bidding system, terms and conditions of use and sale, please visit www.antiquorum.com.

BIDDING INCREMENTS Bidding usually opens below the low estimate figure of each lot and generally advances in increments of 10%, for example:

Increments*:

Values :

from from from from from

Antiquorum’s fully secure online interactive bidding system allows prospective buyers to place interactive bids and absentee bids directly through www.antiquorum.com for all traditional auctions worldwide. Especially designed to offer the suspense and excitement of a traditional auction room, Antiquorum’s online interactive bidding system allows buyers worldwide to bid safely and comfortably as though they were in the saleroom. The system offers many features to facilitate the online bidding process such as: • the lot number with its image, description and condition report • bid sequence for all previous bids on the current lot buyers are bidding upon • a countdown icon (adapted to each user’s connection speed) indicating the time left for bidding • access to a HELP LINE in the event of a connection failure • auction monitoring in major currencies, including the bidder’s currency of choice • view of the paddle number and the location (room or online) of the person bidding at that moment Antiquorum’s online interactive bidding system also offers buyers the option to place an online absentee bid. Absentee bids are accepted by the online server up to two hours before the start of the live interactive auction. To help familiarize prospective buyers with Antiquorum’s online bidding system, a bidding simulator is available on www.antiquorum.com.

500 1,000 2,000 5,000 10,000

to to to to to

1,000 2,000 5,000 10,000 20,000

by by by by by

US$. 50 US$ 100 US$ 200 US$ 500 US$ 1,000

auctioneer may adjust the bidding increments at his/her discretion.

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CURRENCY CONVERSION

PAYMENT

COLLECTION

Auctions are conducted in U.S. Dollars in New York, in Swiss Francs in Geneva, and in HK Dollars in Hong Kong. A currency conversion board is made available in each saleroom and online, indicating approximate exchange rates for various major currencies.

Payment for purchased lots at any Antiquorum auction is due within 7 days of the sale date. • For traditional auctions, the buyer’s premium is: 20% of hammer price on each lot up to and including US$80,000 plus 18% of any amount in excess of US$ 80,001 until US$200,000 plus 12% of any amount in excess of US$200,001. • Extended payment terms, or special credit terms can be arranged on occasion. • For information regarding payment policies, please contact Eddie Ramcharran at Antiquorum USA, Tel. +1 212 750 1103. • Payment can be submitted in cash, or by wire transfer, or check. • If payment is made via wire transfer, please be certain to add to the invo ice total the wire transfer fee (if applicable) imposed by your financial institution.

For collection of lots purchased, the buyer will need to contact Antiquorum with instructions. Collection of purchased lots can only take place once the invoice has been paid in full. Antiquorum USA, Tel: +1 212 750 1103.

SUCCESSFUL BIDS When the auctioneer’s hammer falls, the final bid has been reached and the auctioneer will record the bidder’s paddle number, or the absentee bid number. If your bids have been successful, you will be notified by means of an invoice sent by mail (or by fax upon request). You are also welcome to call Antiquorum the day after the auction to request the outcome of your bids.

SALES RESULTS Price lists are made available online at www.antiquorum.com approximately six hours after the end of each auction.

SHIPPING & INSURANCE Winning lots are exported immediately after the sale to Antiquorum offices corresponding to client’s address: European buyers’ lots are sent to the Geneva office, American buyers’ lots are sent to the New York office and Asian buyers’ lots are sent to the Hong Kong office. 1% of hammer price will be charged to cover the insurance liability as according to law once the hammer falls the buyer is responsible for the insurance of the lot.

The Seller CONTRACT If you are interested in consigning property to Antiquorum, we invite you to contact one of our experts to examine and valuate the merchandise (see the list of our offices at the front of the auction catalogue). If you are unable to visit one of our offices, you can mail, fax or e-mail a photograph of the property with any pertinent information to one of our experts for examination. If you decide to sell your property through Antiquorum, a contract will be drawn up which describes the lot(s) and establishes reserve(s), as well as sets forth terms and fees for services we provide. The reserve is a minimum price for the seller, which is determined in mutual agreement between the seller and Antiquorum. A lot cannot be sold at auction under that price. For traditional auctions: • Seller’s commissions are charged on sold lots only: 15% for lots sold on the first US$ 5,000 (and for lots sold in thematic auctions); and 10% in excess of US$ 5,000. • Antiquorum also charges an insurance premium of 1% on the final hammer price for each lot sold or on the basis of

PRE-AUCTION NOTIFICATION the reserve for unsold lots. If the seller wishes to use his/her own insurance coverage, a disclaimer letter must be provided to Antiquorum. • A fee for catalogue photography will also be applied, and laboratory certification, repair and restoration fees may be incurred where applicable.

SPECIAL FINANCING Under certain circumstances, Antiquorum may advance funds to a seller against the goods consigned for sale. For information, contact an Antiquorum expert or agent.

DELIVERY OF PROPERTY TO ANTIQUORUM Property to be delivered for a forthcoming auction should be consigned to Antiquorum no later than 45 days prior to the sale date. Antiquorum’s staff is at your disposal to help arrange the delivery of property to Antiquorum. Please do not hesitate to call us New York + 1 212 750 1103; or contact the Antiquorum office closest to you (see the list of offices).

9

For items sold in a traditional auction, each seller will receive a complimentary auction catalogue two weeks before the sale. Sellers will also receive a statement indicating the lot number(s) and reserve(s) for their property included in the sale.

POST-AUCTION NOTIFICATION Shortly after the sale, sellers will receive notification of the outcome of the sale of their property, indicating the lot number(s) and hammer price(s) for each one.

PAYMENT Payment will be sent to sellers within approximately 40 days from the day of the sale, providing that the lot(s) have been settled by the buyer(s). Please refer to the receipt of property for further information.

Introduction

T

he concept for this auction was conceived two years ago when a couple of Antiquorum sport watch enthusiasts discussed the idea of a thematic auction focused on the Rolex sport watch and its historical significance and evolution. The objective was to present a comprehensive collection of the reference models that Rolex produced and exhibit them in a manner which explains the subtle developments and differences among the references. In addition, the intention was to include a wide array of vintage Rolex displays and promotional items to exhibit the manner in which Rolex promoted their sport watch and the work tool concept. When Rolex invented the sport watch and the revolutionary ‘Oyster’ case, it was one of the first watches created for use in specific professions or recreational pursuits. The one hundred years of Rolex's history are a testament to the ability of a company to grow successfully through constant innovation and product development. The sport watches we know and wear today are products of this dedication to evolution. Rolex's commitment to the sport watch has resulted in some of the most enduring and appealing wristwatch designs produced by any manufacturer. The company's success stems from its controlled evolution, improving what was considered by many to be already perfect, and its dedication to a design concept unswayed by fad or fashion. Today the sport watch of every major company derives much of its styling and features from Rolex's groundbreaking designs, not to mention its faith in the sport watch. The watches in this catalog are grouped into separate model categories (i.e. Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Master, etc.) and then further organized based on the release dates of the references, so that the gradual change and evolution of the model will become more readily apparent. We have done our utmost to present the historical background of the development of the sport watch and employed the expertise of the Antiquorum watch experts, in addition to outside Rolex sport watch connoisseurs and collectors to assist in this daunting task. The historical and technical information presented in this auction catalog is based on exhaustive research, countless interviews, examination of the watches and the assistance of outside experts. Since this auction is not authorized by Rolex, we have no possibility to confirm the information and facts presented herein and therefore it is not meant as the final authoritative word on the subject. Part of the excitement of collecting vintage Rolex sport watches is the constant learning and improvement on the knowledge of the watches. We continue to look forward to deepening our understanding of this revolutionary tool. The is auction offers a glimpse into the evolution of the Rolex sport watch and the impact that the revolutionary Oyster case had on the entire watch industry. We have selected – with care and great enthusiasm - the best available examples to represent the historical evolution of these important timepieces. We hope that the public will find this auction exciting as well as informative, helpful, and perhaps most of all, enjoyable!

12

Hans Wilsdorf

W

hile Rolex watches hold incomparable allure, very little is known of the company’s history and the man who made it so successful. Hans Wilhelm Wilsdorf was born on March 22, 1881 in the town of Kulmbach near Nuremberg in Bavaria. In 1893, Hans’s parents having died within months of one another, the children were placed in the care of relatives. Hans arrived in Geneva in 1900, working first in the export section of a pearl firm, and then with Cuno Korten in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1903, Hans moved to London, working for a watch import company for two years, then founding ‘Wilsdorf & Davis’ with his friend Alfred James Davis, a lawyer and investor. They imported movements from the Jean Aegler factory in the Rebberg, Biel, and sourced dials and cases from other Swiss suppliers. The watches were shipped unsigned to customers, so that retailers could place their own names on the dials; calibers and cases were stamped ‘W&D’. On July 2, 1908, the name “Rolex” was registered in Switzerland. Wilsdorf wanted a name that was “… short, yet significant, not cumbersome on the dial and above all a word easy enough to memorize, with a pleasant sound and its pronunciation unchanged whatever European language is spoken!” When war came in 1914, Great Britain was swept by a wave of anti-German feeling, and overnight the Wilsdorf & Davis name became a liability. On November 15, 1915 the name “Rolex Watch Company Ltd.” was registered. In 1914, when a watch received a prestigious ‘Kew-A’ chronometer rating certificate after 44 days of testing, the Rolex Watch Company became the first to sell wrist chronometers. However, despite large orders from the military, it was increasingly difficult to make a profit due to war duties and a ban on importation of metal items. Rolex’s business model of importing from Switzerland and assembling in Britain became unsustainable, and Wilsdorf and Davis moved to Switzerland. By 1919 Wilsdorf resided in Geneva. Rolex was located in Biel (production) and Geneva (export, design, administration). On January 17, 1920, “Montres Rolex S.A.” was founded, with Wilsdorf as its sole proprietor and director. Hans Wilsdorf died in 1960, yet his brand continued to innovate and to achieve universal success; the ‘Sea-Dweller’, ‘Cosmograph Daytona’ and ‘Yacht-Master’ lines were introduced after his death. Certain models, like the so-called ‘Daytona – Paul Newman’ or the ‘Submariner – James Bond’, have attained cult status. Guided by Wilsdorf’s successors Andre and Patrick Heininger, today Rolex is a billion dollar enterprise, producing circa 800,000 watches annually.

13

History of the Evolution of

I

n 1908, exactly one hundred years ago, Hans Wilsdorf renamed a company that he had formed a few years before. He called it the ROLEX WATCH COMPANY, a name he had chosen, it is widely believed, because it was easily pronounced in different languages and short enough to fit on a watch dial. It is said that Wilsdorf dreamed up the word while riding a London bus, having been inspired by the sound a watch makes as it is wound. Wilsdorf soon distinguished his company from its many competitors by specializing in unusual items, most notably the wristwatch. At the time, the wristwatch presented logistical difficulties, including ensuring accuracy in a small device and avoiding damage, given the watch's unprotected position on the wrist (i.e. exposure to blows, moisture and dust). The wristwatch was becoming more suitable for an increasingly active and mobile society, as technological innovations made travel to distant shores available to a significant number of people. Flying expeditions, mountain climbing, car racing and sea exploration grew in popularity and struck the public's imagination as romantic and adventurous. Wilsdorf also focused on the production of wristwatches with the accuracy of a chronometer. Two milestone awards were bestowed on his timepieces in 1910 the world's first-ever first-class chronometer certificate awarded to a wristwatch by the Biel School of Horology and 1914 (a Class A certificate by the distinguished Kew Observatory in England, the first awarded to a wristwatch).

14

the Rolex Sport Watch

THE SPORT WATCH REVOLUTION The sport watch owes its existence to Rolex's development of the first waterproof watch case. In 1926, Rolex revolutionized watchmaking with the introduction of the Rolex 'Oyster' - the world’s first waterproof and airtight wristwatch. Wilsdorf came up with the name as the watch was being designed. While hosting a dinner party, and having a particularly hard time opening an oyster, he commented to his guests that he hoped his new watch design would prove to be as resilient as the oyster. The revolution was born and the evolution towards perfection started. The following year, the Rolex Oyster was put through one of the most arduous tests conceivable when Mercedes Gleitze swam the entire length of the English Channel wearing a Rolex 'Oyster'. She emerged from her fifteen hour ordeal with the watch functioning perfectly (much to the amazement of the public). Wilsdorf capitalized on this with a splashy front-page advertisement in London's Daily Mail newspaper: "The wonder watch that defies the elements: Moisture proof. Waterproof. Heat proof. Vibration proof. Cold proof. Dust proof." This was the genesis of the Rolex sport watch testimonial ad campaign that continues to this day. The next 80 years brought continued innovation and evolution for the Rolex sport watch. In 1931, Rolex introduced the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, the first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch. A rotor that sat on the movement swung in either direction, thereby winding the watch with the movement of the wrist. A mechanism was also introduced to ensure that over-winding became a thing of the past. The watch was even more accurate than a traditional watch, since the tension put on the mainspring by constant winding was greater than that provided by winding done once a day. In another marketing coup, in 1935, a Rolex Oyster went over 300 miles per hour on the wrist of Sir Malcolm Campbell as he set the world land-speed record in his race car at Salt Lake Flats. In 1945, Rolex received their 50,000th certificate from the official testing office in Biel and the Oyster Perpetual Datejust was introduced - the first automatic, waterproof chronometer with the date visible through a window in the dial. In 1953, Rolex enjoyed another marketing success when members of Sir John Hunt's British Himalaya Expedition reached the summit of Mount Everest wearing prototype Rolex 'Explorers' - which lost no accuracy in the extreme weather and severe conditions. In the same year, a large test watch known as a Rolex 'Deep Sea Special' was attached to the exterior of Professor Auguste Piccard's bathyscaphe which reached a depth of 3,131.80 meters (10,335 feet). The watch remained completely waterproof. The year 1953 also saw the evolution of several sport models; the 'TurnO-Graph' was introduced, with its distinctive case and bezel design which would later evolve to create several other popular sport models. The 'Submariner' with resistance to 100 meters’ depth was introduced and was later officially launched at the 1954 Basel Spring Watch Fair in Switzerland. The “Milgauss” was launched in 1954, having been designed for use in high magnetic fields. The same year, the GMT Master, a pilot's watch that kept time in two different time zones simultaneously was introduced. Finally, 1954 brought the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, that displayed the date and day of the week through a window in the dial. The year 1959 brought the evolution of the 'Submariner' (model 5512) with the introduction of a distinctive protective crown guard - later to become a prominent feature in various Rolex sport models. A year later, in early 1960, Rolex performed its most astonishing feat when a second bathyscaphe, the Trieste, reached a new world record depth of 11,000 meters (35,798 feet) with the Piccard watch (model 7205/0) attached to its exterior. The watch survived a pressure of almost seven tons per square inch. Shortly thereafter, on July 6, 1960, Hans Wilsdorf passed away and following his death, Andre Heiniger took over the company and became the driving force behind the company's success for the next thirty years. Under Heiniger's leadership, Rolex continued to invent and innovate in terms of technical skill and style throughout the second half of the century. The same year, 1960, the first “Cosmograph” chronograph (model 6239) was launched which featured a tachymetric timing ring on a metal bezel, rather than on the dial and a few months later a model with an acrylic bezel (model 6241) was launched. In 1965, the 'Cosmograph' evolved with the introduction of a model (model 6240) which used screwdown waterproof pushers. In 1967, the 'Sea-Dweller' (model 1665) was created with a helium gas escape valve making it the first commercially available watch for use by saturation divers and solidifying Rolex as the choice for professional divers (a point that was quickly adopted in advertising the model). In addition, the same year, the 'Submariner' further evolved with the introduction of a model (model 1680) that featured a date through a window in the dial.

15

(Watch not included in this lot)

Display Clock 1 Wall Circa 2002.

Wall Display Clock 2 Large Rolex, circa 1990.

Hardened foam wall clock. C. Hardened foam painted gold with a ridged bezel resembling a Rolex Datejust. D. White, applied baton indexes. Baton hands. M. Kienzle quartz movement. Dial signed Rolex, movement signed Kienzle. Diam. 36 cms.

Large heavy and very rare brass light wall clock C. Brass with bezel resembling a datejust. D. White, opaque glass applied gold baton indexes. Baton hands. M. Quartz movement with fast/slow adjustment, electric plug for inner light Diam. 60 cm, depth 16 cm.

C

3

D

3 - 01

M

3*

C

A

3

D

2 - 01

M

3*

US$: 5,000 - 8,000 / €: 3,400 - 5,400

US$: 200 - 300 / €: 130 - 200 To be sold without reserve

16

AAA


Wall Display Clock 3 Large Made for Rolex circa 1970.

to the Second 4 Time Rolex, “Time to the Second”, No. 1075, Ref. 455. Made

Center-second electric advertising clock C. Circular black metal. D. White, black painted baton indexes. Epee hands. M. Electric. Dial signed Rolex. Diam. 52 cm.

circa 1985. Gilt-metal shop timepiece with dead center seconds and date. C. Cylindrical, base set at an angle, gilt, fluted sides. D. Painted various shades of brown simulating wood, gilt circular, baton and triangular indexes with luminous centers, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date at 3. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Quartz standardization. Dial and movement signed. Diam. 12 cm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

3*

A

US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000

T

C

his display clock still retains its original manufacturer’s sticker at the back. It was produced by the Ohio Advertising Display Company based in Cincinnati.

3

D

2 - 01

M

3*

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

17

AA

Advertising Frame 6 Dealer Rolex, circa 1960.

Dealer Advertising Frame Rolex, circa 1950. A very rare Rolex advertising picture frame. Rectangular, green brass surrounded by a rope pattern, surmounted by a shield surrounded by a brass crown logo. Wooden back stamped with number 213.

5

In good overall condition

A very rare Rolex advertising frame. Brass and green enamel frame mounted on a brass foot, surmounted by a Rolex crown. Wooden back numbered 264.


A

A

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000 18

Display Miror 7 Dealer Rolex, circa 1960.

Display Miror 8 Dealer Rolex, circa 1990.

Tonneau shaped brass and green enamel, surmounted by a Rolex crown. Wooden back numbered 304.

Rectangular, brass, black and white plastic panels mounted on a swivel base.


A


A

US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

T

his mirror was probably used by Rolex retailers to allow their customers to see how their Rolex would look on their wrist. 19

9 (2)

Promotional Ashtrays Rolex, circa 1950. An extremely rare pair of brass Rolex Ashtrays. Gilt brass, partially painted in soft green enamel centered by a Rolex crown. Numbered 295.

9

In very good overall condition

AAA

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

(detail)

10 (2)

10 Cufflinks Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare pair of Rolex cufflinks accompanied by the original fitted box Gilt brass with green enamel.

In mint condition

AAA

US$: 500 - 800 / €: 350 - 550 20

Loupe 11 Table Rolex, circa 1990. Accompanied by the original fitted case. Brass and glass table loupe. Dim. 8x7 cm.


A

US$: 400 - 700 / €: 250 - 450

Half of the proceeds to be given to Rolex Charity.

Letter holder and mouse pads Made for Rolex, circa 1990. Marble with three dividers for documents and letters. Four green mouse pads with Rolex logo.

12


A

US$: 700 - 1,200 / €: 450 - 800

Half of the proceeds to be given to Rolex Charity. 21

Watch Display Briefcase 13 Dealer Rolex, circa 1970. Leather case Ref. 317.04.2, with zipper and two inside trays, Ref. 318.15.02. Designed to hold a total of 30 wristwatches. Dim. 33 x 45 cm. Thickness 12 cm.

In very good condition

AA

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700


Attaché Cases 14 Rolex Made in the 1980 - 1990. Very fine brown leather with tan stitching, handle and a brass latch and green canvas “porte-documents”. Dim. 38 x 29 cm.

13


A

US$: 300 - 500 / €: 200 - 350


14 (2)

22

Presentation Trays 15 Various Circa 1970-80. Two Ref. 435 wooden frame trays with brass corners, one with blue “Cellini” and one with brown “Rolex” felt insert. One foldable tray with green felt.

In good condition

AA

US$: 800 - 1,200 / €: 550 - 800

15 (3)

To be sold without reserve


for Rolex, circa 2000. 16 Made A rare set comprised of a golf bag cover, 2 advertising banners, golf pins and six divot tools with ball markers.


AA

US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000 To be sold without reserve - half of the proceeds to be given to Rolex Charity. 23

Detail of the case holder

For Oyster Cases 17 Keys Rolex Tools. Made in the 1940s. Rolex, set of 4 hand wrenches, No. 1: 28.3 & 29.5 mm, No. 2: 22.5 & 26.5 mm, No. 3: 26.5 mm, No. 4: 20.2 mm. Rolex case holder, mountable on a desk or workbench, mounting bolts included.


AA

US$: 600 - 1,000 / €: 400 - 650

Opener and Paperweight 18 Letter Rolex, circa 1980. A rare set comprising a large stainless steel letter opener and a paper weight. Stainless steel letter opener accompanied by its original faux leather case and outer box. Molded glass paperweight signed Rolex, Pearl of the Orient.

In very good condition 17 (5)

A

US$: 1,400 - 1,800 / €: 900 - 1,200

18 (2)

24

Perfume and Wallet 19 Promotional Rolex, circa 1980-1990. A set of Rolex perfume and wallet. A Rolex “Perpetually Yours” perfume bottle in a wooden outer case with stitched Rolex logo. Accompanied by its original fitted case. Green wallet with money clip and credit card slots. Accompanied by its protective pouch and outer box. Case, bottle and box signed.


A

US$: 300 - 500 / €: 200 - 350

Coin 20 Commemorative “Hans Wilsdorf” Commemorative fine gold coin, mounted in a leather folder inscribed: Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Montres Rolex S.A., 1881–1981. This coin was minted for Rolex to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Hans Wilsdorf. The coin features a portrait of Hans Wilsdorf and the inscription: Hans Wilsdorf - 22 III 1881 - 6 VII 1960. Included are a dedication to Hans Wilsdorf, writing pad, pencil, a 14K yellow gold tie tack and a watch cleaning cloth with the Rolex “Jubilee” design.

19 (2)

In very good condition US$: 1,000 - 1,500 €: 650 - 1,000

20 (4)

25

A

Window Display. 21 Dealer Made in the 1930s. Wooden display with moving parts to demonstrate the function of the Rolex “Rotor Self-Winding Mechanism.” Custom-made display, the elephant’s head nodding up and down, moving the hinged letter “R” which bears a Rolex self-winding rotor in the upper opening, thus simulating the motion of a person’s wrist. Simultaneously an Oyster case, mounted in the “E,” is rotating slightly. All moving parts are driven by an electrical pendulum with a mercury switch (110 V) mounted in the back. Dim. 66 x 42 cm. Depth 14 cm.

In good overall working condition

AA

US$: 3,000 - 5,000 / €: 2,000 - 3,400

An example of the display’s movement 26

Explorers Club he Explorers Club is an international multidisciplinary professional society dedicated to the advancement of field research and the ideal that it is vital to preserve the instinct to explore. Since its inception in 1904, the Club has served as a meeting point and unifying force for explorers and scientists worldwide. The Club's charter calls for a selected variety of honors to be awarded throughout the year, one of which is the Patron of Exploration award.

T

22

23

Explorers Club Medallion 22 Awarded in 1998 .

Silver Presentation Plaque 23 Sterling Garrard, made for Rolex, made in 1988.

A sterling silver medallion awarded to Rolex Watch USA Inc. Engraved on the front with the Explorer’s club emblem. Engraved on the back “Patron Of Exploration, Rolex Watch USA, Inc. 1998”.

A very fine and rare sterling silver and ebony presentation plaque awarded at the Rolex Cup-Guards Polo Club. Accompanied by the original fitted box. Cut-out sterling silver plaque representing two polo players and their horses, mounted on an ebony base.


AA


US$: 700 - 1,000 / €: 450 - 650

AAA

US$: 2,000 - 3,000 / €: 1,300 - 2,000


For a similar example see “The Best of Time” by Dowling & Hess, page 356.

27

Gold Single Button Chronograph 24 Yellow Rolex, Genève, Chronograph Precision, Ref. 3068. Made circa 1950. Very fine and extremely rare, 18K yellow gold pocket watch with co-axial button chronograph, register and tachometer. C. Two-body, “bassine,” polished, gilt metal screwed-down cuvette. D. Matte silver with applied yellow gold baton indexes, outer minute and 1/5th second divisions with Arabic five minute/ second markers, outermost blue tachometer scale, subsidiary dials for the seconds at 6 and the 30-minute register at 12. Yellow gold baton hands. M. 17’’’, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 48 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

3

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

28

3*

AAA

Jubile Rolex 25 VadeMecum Rolex, VadeMecum Jubile No 281/500. Circa 1950. A rare set of 4 small books written by Hans Wilsdorf and various authors, printed in a limited run of 500 pieces. Comprised of four volumes entitled : - D’Etape en Etape - Le developpement de la chronometrie de petit format - Comment la montre étanche fut créée - Histoire de la montre automatique


A

US$: 600 - 1,000 / €: 400 - 650

25 (4)

Dealer Window Display 26 Large Rolex, circa 1960. A large Rolex window display plaque. Dim. 47.8 x 19.3 cm.


A

US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000 29

Display Miror 27 Dealer Rolex, circa 1990. Rectangular, brass, black plastic panels mounted on a swivel base.


A

US$: 250 - 350 / €: 170 - 230

Ashtrays 28 Promotional Made for Rolex, circa 1970 - 1980. A set of two ashtrays both Ref. RMA-210 One green and one black marble ashtrays with Rolex logos.


A

US$: 200 - 400 / €: 130 - 270

27

28 (2)

30

Door Handles 29 Retailer’s Made for Rolex circa 1950.

(The mirror display is not included in Lot 29, please see Lot 7)

A very rare and unusual set of front and back door handles. Heavy brass with green enamel back panels on which brass Rolex crowns have been applied.


AAA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

Display Case 30 Dial Rolex Acrylic “Display Case.” Made in the 1970s. Display case for 6 various size loose bezels and or dials. Slide-out top for easy access, slightly slanted, used for show cases. Accompanied by 4 dials for various Rolex Datejusts. Dim. 110 x 145 mm. Thickness 35 to 23 mm (slanted).


A

US$: 300 - 600 / €: 200 - 400


29 (2)

30

31

collection of original Rolex catalogues from 1970-1980. 31 AComprised of the Oyster catalogue from 1973 describing the cases, calibers, crowns, tubes and keys, Rolex master catalogue No. 831 dated 1978, with photographs and descriptions of current models, bracelets, and price list, Rolex master catalogue No. 6663 dated 1980, with current models and price list, 2 extra price lists from 1979 and 1980.


A

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

32

collection of original Rolex catalogues from 1970-1980 32 AContaining information on Rolex and Tudor watches, Spare parts catalogue R4 dated 1971, Oyster catalogue R20 dated 1973, Spare parts catalogue R7 dated 1984, technical manual A dated 1987.


A

US$: 1,200 - 1,800 / €: 800 - 1,200

33

Sailboat Display 33 Rolex Rolex, circa 1970. An extremely rare large Rolex sailboat window display White painted metal haul with secondary metal sail surmounted by a white and green painted plastic sail. Length 62 cm, height 73 cm.


AAA

US$: 5,000 - 8,000 / €: 3,400 - 5,400

S

ince Rolex Watch U.S.A. first presented timepieces to America's Cup defenders in 1958, the company has consistently recognized and encouraged excellence in every important arena of competitive sailing, including Olympic Games preparation, US SAILING championships, disabled sailing, and offshore, one-design and women's events. This display was used to promote Rolex's involvement and sponsorship of yachting races and regattas.

34

collection of 4 window display stands 34 AMade in the early 1960s. One each for the “GMT-Master” # 320, the “Submariner” # 347, the “Datejust” # 334, the “Lady Datejust” # 364. Made of gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel.


A

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

35

Ship 35 The Rolex, circa 1960. A rare Rolex window display sign.

Swan 36 The Rolex, circa 1960. Fine and rare Rolex window display

Rolex Oyster Perpetual “World’s first waterproof & Selfwinding wrist Chronometer”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 349.

sign. Rolex Oyster Perpetual “World’s first Self-winding Wrist Chronometer-Guaranteed to a Depth of 165 Feet”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 363.


A


US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

A

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

Datejust Rolex Datejust 37 Rolex Rolex, circa 1960. A fine and rare Rolex window display 38 Rolex, circa 1960. A fine and rare Rolex window display sign. Rolex Datejust “Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Selfwinding”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 358.


sign. Rolex Datejust “Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Selfwinding”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 299.

A


US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

A

US$: 1,200 - 1,800 / €: 800 - 1,200 36

Day of the Week 39 The Rolex, circa 1960. A rare Rolex window display sign.

Day of the Week 40 The Rolex, circa 1960. A rare Rolex window display sign.

Rolex Day-Date “The Day of the Week Automatic Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Self-winding”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 335.

Rolex Day-Date “The Day of the Week in Full Calendar Chronometer Self-winding Guaranteed to a Depth of 165 Feet”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 359.

A



US$: 1,200 - 1,800 / €: 800 - 1,200

A

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

Fish The Fish and the Trident 41 The 42 Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare Rolex window display sign. Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare Rolex window display sign Rolex Submariner “Pressure-Proof to a depth of 660 Feet Under Water !”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 319.

In good condition

Rolex Submariner “Pressure-Proof to a depth of 660 Feet Under Water !”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 347.

A

In good condition

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

A

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

37

Time Zones The Wing and Tail 43 Two Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare Rolex window display sign. 44 Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare Rolex window display sign. Rolex GMT-Master “The Correct Time Simultaneously in Two Time-Zones 24-Hour Hand Revolving Bezel Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Self-winding” Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 388.

In good condition

Rolex GMT-Master “The Correct Time Simultaneously in Two Time-Zones 24-Hour Hand Revolving Bezel Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Self-winding” Gilt brass, partially painted in green and beige soft enamel. Numbered 362.

A


US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

A

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

Plane Supersonic Planes 45 The Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare Rolex window display sign. 46 Rolex, circa 1960. A very rare Rolex window display sign. Rolex GMT-Master “The Exact Time in Two Different Hour-Zones 24Hour Hand Revolving Bezel Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Selfwinding”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 348.

In good condition

Rolex GMT-Master “The Exact Time in Two Different Hour-Zones 24Hour Hand Revolving Bezel Calendar Chronometer 100% Waterproof Selfwinding”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green and beige soft enamel. Numbered 320. A In good condition

A

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300 38

47 (2)

Dealer Window Displays 47 Tudor Circa 1960-1970. A set of rare Tudor window displays. Two brass and red enamel displays, one from 1960 with the rose logo, the other from 1970 with the shield logo. Both numbered 249.


A

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300

To The Second 48 Time Rolex, Geneva, “Time To The Second”, No. 1121. Made in the 1960s. Fine desk clock with stop feature in original wooden fitted box. C. Cylindrical form set at an angle, painted in green soft enamel with black faux-finish, brass base, clock in the center of the cylinder, hinged panel at the base to view the movement. D. Matte silver with applied gilt Roman numerals and indexes, subsidiary seconds dial. Gilt brass dauphine hands. M. Rhodium-plated, battery-powered, 15 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, stop lever protruding at 6 o’clock. Dial, case and box signed. Dim. 13 x 19 cm. Height 9.5 cm.

C

3- 9

D

3 - 01

M

3**

48

A

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000 39

(Watch not included in this lot) 49

Display Platform 49 Window Rolex, circa 1950. A rare store display platform. Gilt brass, partially painted in soft green enamel, the main platform covered in a fine mesh cotton. Numbered 340.

In good overall condition, with some oxydation

A

US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000

At One with the Sea Rolex, circa 1970. A large and rare window display. Covered with ultra-suede, surmounted by a copper diver’s helmet to showcase the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller models.

50


A

US$: 2,000 - 3,000 / €: 1,300 - 2,000

50

40

(Watch not included in this lot) 51

Display Platform 51 Window Rolex, circa 1950. A rare store display platform. Gilt brass, partially painted in soft green enamel, the main platform covered in a fine faux velvet. Numbered 355.


AA

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

circa 1960. 52 Rolex, A very rare Rolex window display sign Rolex Submariner “Etanche jusqu’à 200 mètres de Profondeur Automatique Lunette Tournante”. Gilt brass, partially painted in green soft enamel. Numbered 361.

In good condition, with some paint loss

AAA

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700


52

41

Illustration from “VadeMecum” (lot 25)

Rolex Vacuum Tank, Ref. 124 Made in the 1950s. An extremely rare early apparatus for checking the water-resistance of “Oyster” watches, Ref. 124. The chamber is filled with distilled water. The lever creates a vacuum, thus drawing air from the inside of the watch. Escaping air bubbles indicate the exact location of the potential leak. Dim. 19 x 36 cm.

53

In good overall condition, may be in need of service US$: 2,000 - 3,000 / €: 1,300 - 2,000

42

AAA

Rolex Vacuum Tank, Ref. 1000 Made in the 1970s. Apparatus for checking the water-resistance of “Oyster” watches, Ref. 1000. The chamber is filled with distilled water. The lever creates a vacuum, thus drawing air from the inside of the watch. Escaping air bubbles indicate the exact location of the potential leak. Dim. 24 x 37 cm.

54

In very good condition, may be in need of service US$: 1,000 - 1,500 / €: 650 - 1,000

43

AA

Oyster Opener 55 Eazy Made in the 1950s. Oyster case opener, Ref 1001. Comprised of a main case-resting tool on which can be laid the 11 casts for the various case sizes. The top part has 5 adaptors for the various case back sizes. Dim. 21 x 20 cm.


A

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300 44

Fathometer 56 Rolex Made in the 1960s. Apparatus for checking the depth resistance of "Oyster" watches. The chamber is filled with distilled water. The rotating wheel on the base allows it to increase the water pressure, re-creating diving conditions. Dim. 25.5 cm x 10.5 cm

In very good overall condition, may be in need of service US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000


I

nterestingly enough, this apparatus has the name "Fathometer" inscribed on it. The name was patented by Rolex in December 1954 and one can speculate that it was probably destined to be one of the possible names for their sport model that ended of course being the Submariner. 45

Window Display 57 Dealer Made for Rolex, circa 1990.

Window Display 58 Light Made for Rolex by Guillaume, circa 1990.

A fine wood and suede window display representing a violin and its bow. Wood covered by suede, on the back panel a composition entitled “1st Violin”. A realistic wood, wire and artificial hair reproduction of a violin and bow.

A fine and rare light window display. Coated Aluminum, plastic and plexiglass illuminated by a light in the base, to reveal the Rolex name and crown in a yellow tint. 110V.



AA

AA

US$: 2,000 - 3,000 / €: 1,300 - 2,000

US$: 500 - 800 / €: 350 - 550

46

Self-Winding Watch Movement Model Rolex. Made in the 1970s. Extremely rare and unusual, stainless steel, brass and Perspex electric working model of a self-winding watch movement. C. Circular, brushed stainless steel, rectangular base with rake adjustment and gilt block signed Rolex, Perspex cover. M. Electrically driven, brass outer ring, cast plate with steel wheels, Perspex top-plate and rotor, lateral lever escapement with steel escape wheel and Perspex lever, Perspex balance wheel, blued steel balance spring, Uwersi shock absorber, index regulator. Case and movement signed. Dim. 35 cm. high, 31 cm. diameter.

59


AAA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

47

Rolex spare part box, 1930’s. Comprising of 28 tubes and 6 tins, all with Rolex parts among which 5 oyster crowns and tubes, 4 spring barrels, 3 hairsprings, 1 balance and a set of Rolex hands.

60


AAA

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

48


Large Dealer Display Made for Rolex, circa 1970. A very large and rare outdoor advertising sign. Made from metal, brass, green and yellow plastic Dim. 205 x 132 x 10.2 cm.

61

In good overall condition, crack in plastic on the letter L. US$: 5,000 - 8,000 / €: 3,400 - 5,400

49

157 Parts of the Finest Self Winding Watch in the World Rolex, circa 1948. An extremely fine and rare window or countertop display. Perspex base inscribed “The 157 Parts of the finest Self-Winding Watch in the World” and surmounted by a Perspex cube showing an exploded view of Rolex watch parts. Diam. of base 112 mm, height 130 mm.

62

In very good overall condition US$: 5,000 - 8,000 / €: 3,400 - 5,400

For a similar example see “The Best of Time” by Dowling & Hess, page 355. 50

The World Famous Oyster Case Made in the 1980s. Rolex display case for demonstrating the manufacturing process of an “Oyster” case. From a solid piece of metal, either steel, gold or platinum, seven stages to make a case frame (top row). Samples of 904 L and 304 L steel. A complete stainless steel Oyster case, Ref 16000. Several winding crowns and case tubes. A model of a Twinlock crown. Three stages to make a case back, six sapphire crystals with nylon rings and one bracelet section. Case dim. 38 x 21 cm, height 5.5 cm.

63

In very good overall condition US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000 51

T

o any Rolex watch or display collector, the fishbowl represents the rarest and most desirable accessory. This eye-catching display would have been used in a retailer’s window to show off the amazing water-resistance of Rolex watches. The relatively small number made and the fragility of its glass bowl make this the ultimate Rolex display. This is the first time such window displays have been offered at auction.

Illustration from “VadeMecum” (lot 25)

The Waterlily Fishbowl Display Rolex, circa 1960. An extremely rare window display. White and green brass and enamel leaves and flower representing a water lily and dragonfly. In the center, a glass bowl featuring a watch stand surmounted by a Rolex logo and crown and stating on one side “Exact Time” and on the other “Heure Exacte”. Numbered 304.

64


T

he advent of the world's first waterproof and airtight wristwatch was promoted with Rolex’s first dedicated window display. On November 9, 1922, Rolex registered as 52986 an aquarium in which swam a number of fish and suspended in the water was the Rolex watch. In 1926, when the ‘Oyster’ was introduced, Rolex used the aquarium display prominently in jewelers shop windows to tout its ‘Oyster’ case. The plain aquarium display developed into the more elaborate fishbowl display which was mounted on top of a complex enameled themed motif with the watch totally submersed in water; a powerful image that would make the Rolex brand name unforgettable.

The Trident Fishbowl Display Rolex, circa 1960. An extremely rare window display. Green and brass enamel, cresecent-shaped, appearing to be pierced by a trident supported by two stylized fish holding a glass fishbowl bearing a plaque with the Rolex name and crown logo and stating on one side “Heure exacte”. Numbered 313

65


Oyster

A

constant innovator, Wilsdorf took out 25 Swiss patents in his own name. Though an energetic advocate of the wristwatch, he was aware of its many residual problems. Quality had to be improved by more effective production and control methods, dependable and efficient selfwinding mechanisms, increased shock-proofing, and increased dust and water-resistance. Wilsdorf had patented a watch case whose screw-down case and winding crown protected it from dust, perspiration, water, heat and cold. On October 7, 1927 a London typist named Mercedes Gleitze strapped a Rolex to her wrist and swam across the English Channel. After 15 hours and 15 minutes, she emerged from the water with her impenetrable ‘Oyster’ still running impeccably. Gleitze was the first female swimmer to cross the Channel; no one had ever done so while wearing a wristwatch. She made headlines the world over, and on November 24, 1927, the London ‘Daily Mail’ printed 1.6 million copies with a full page advertisement (paid for by Wilsdorf) touting Gleitze’s triumph and the superiority of the ‘Oyster’ line of watches. Wilsdorf spent 1.2 million Swiss francs promoting the ‘Oyster’ case, prominently positioning it in the market and setting a milestone by being the first company to advertise with a heralded sporting achievement. Retailers installed aquariums in their showcases, featuring submerged Rolex watches to demonstrate the wonder product’s astounding advantages. According to Wilsdorf, “The logical consequence of the Rolex Oyster was the creation of the self-winding watch in which the movement automatically winds itself over again, thus ensuring that it runs continually!” The Rolex automatic movement with a spinning rotor, superior to competitors’ solutions, debuted as the ‘Perpetual’ in 1931. When Hans Wilsdorf’s wife May Frances died in 1944, Wilsdorf created the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, supporting research projects and charitable causes. During World War II Wilsdorf opposed Hitler by offering a Rolex watch to British pilots held in German prison camps. The watches were sent from Geneva via the International Red Cross. Each recipient received a letter from Wilsdorf saying they could pay for their purchase in Swiss francs once the war had ended. 1945, the end of the war, also marked the 30th anniversary of the firm’s founding in London. That same year the ‘Datejust’ was introduced and has remained a modern icon to the present. The next decade witnessed the birth of other Rolex classics: the ‘Explorer’, the ‘Submariner’ the ‘Sea-Dweller’, the ‘GMT Master’, and the ‘Day-Date’.

54

55

OYSTER

Ref. 5500 66 Air-King, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Air-King, Precision,” Ref. 5500. Made in 1970. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a red seal and a hang tag. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Satiné silver with applied steel baton indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

2

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 1,000 - 2,000 / €: 650 - 1,300 To be sold without reserve

56

2

A

OYSTER

57

OYSTER

Ref. 5500, Winn Dixie Logo 67 Air-King, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Air-King, Precision”, Ref. 5500/1002. Made in 1987. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, dedicated screw-down case back and crown, polished bezel. D. Matte silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions, Winn Dixie logo at 6. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 11 mm. Approx. overall length 190 mm.

C

3-7

D

2 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

W

inn Dixie is one of the large Supermarket chains in the U.S. Originally founded in 1914, the chain has existed under its current name since 1955. With a revenue of about 7.5 billion in 1997, Winn Dixie has 521 stores in Florida, Alabama, Louisiana, Georgia, and Mississippi. These Air-King watches were given to their truckers in recognition of 10 years of safe driving. The present watch is featured in “Rolex, Collecting Modern and Vintage Wristwatches”, Guido Mondani Editions, pg 267.

58

OYSTER

59

OYSTER

Air-King, Ref. 5500, Pan Am Logo Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Air-King”, Ref. 5500/1002. Made in 1968. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, polished bezel. D. Matte silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions, Pan Am logo at 6. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 11 mm. Approx. overall length 190 mm.

68

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

The present watch is featured in “Rolex, Collecting Modern and Vintage Wristwatches”, Guido Mondani Editions, pg 215.

60

OYSTER

61

OYSTER

62

OYSTER

Ref. 5500, Adwoc Logo 69 Air-King, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Air-King, Precision”, Ref. 5500/1002. Made in 1980. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, polished bezel. D. Matte silver with applied gold baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions, Adwoc logo at six. Luminous gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 11 mm. Approx. overall length 190 mm.

C

3-7

D

2 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

T

he Arab Drilling & Workover Company (ADWOC) was founded in 1980 and is based in Tripoli. They specialize in oil and gas exploration in Syria and Libya and as an OPEC associated company have consulted for many foreign oil companies. The present watch is featured in “Rolex, Collecting Modern and Vintage Wristwatches”, Guido Mondani Editions, pg 213.

63

OYSTER

Ref. 14000, Domino’s Pizza Logo 70 Air-King, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Air-King, Precision”, Ref. 14000. Made in 1998, sold on January 19, 2000. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, dedicated screw-down case back and crown, polished bezel. D. Matte silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions, Domino’s Pizza logo at 6. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 11 mm. Approx. overall length 190 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700 64

3*

AA

OYSTER


65

OYSTER

66

OYSTER

Air-King-Date, Ref. 5700 Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Air-King-Date, Precision”, Ref. 5700/15000. Made in the late 1980s, sold June 1989. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), hang tag and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, back engraved: XEROX 1988, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Satiné silver with applied steel baton indexes, luminous dots, outer minute/seconds track, aperture for the date. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

71

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 2,500 - 3,500 / €: 1,700 - 2,300

67

2

AA

OYSTER

Ref. 6694, United Arab Emirate Crest 72 Oysterdate, Rolex, “Oysterdate, Precision”, Ref. 6694. Made in 1986. Fine and rare, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, tonneau-shaped stainless steel wristwatch with stainless steel Oyster Bracelet with deployant clasp. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Silver, applied gold baton indexes, luminous dots and outer minute/second track, aperture for the date, United Arab Emirate Crest. Luminous gold baton hands. M. Cal. 9’’’1/2, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

2

D

2 - 01

M

2

AA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700


68

OYSTER

69

OYSTER

Oysterdate, Ref. 6694 United Arab Emirates Rolex, “Oysterdate, Precision”, Ref. 6694. Made in 1971. Fine and rare, water-resistant, center-seconds, self-winding, tonneau-shaped stainless steel wristwatch with stainless steel Oyster Bracelet with deployant clasp. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Silver, applied gold baton indexes, luminous dots and outer minute/second track, aperture for the date, United Arab Emirates Crest. Luminous gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1225, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, selfcompensating flat balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

73

C

3

D

3 - 9 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700


70

OYSTER

71

OYSTER


72

OYSTER

Ref. 6694, United Arab Emirates Air Force 74 Oysterdate, Rolex, “Oysterdate, Precision”, Ref. 6694. Made in 1985. Fine and rare, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, tonneau-shaped stainless steel wristwatch with stainless steel Oyster Bracelet with deployant clasp. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Silver, applied gold baton indexes, luminous dots and outer minute/second track, aperture for the date, UAE Air Force logo. Luminous gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1225, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 12 mm

C

2

D

1 - 01

M

2

AAA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

T

his watch has remained in as-new condition, probably never having been worn. Its original case back sticker still intact, accompanied by its certificate stamped by a Rolex retailer in Abu Dhabi, attest to its origins.

73

OYSTER

Perpetual Date, Ref. 1530 75 Oyster Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Date, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 1530. Made in the 1970s. Fine and rare, tonneau-shaped, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date and an integral stainless steel Rolex link bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Two-tone silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 7,500 - 10,000 / €: 5,000 - 6,700

74

3 -9*

AA

OYSTER

75

OYSTER

Sir Walter William Herbert Herbert’s Oysterquartz 76 Wally Rolex, Genève, “Oysterquartz Datejust, Ref. 17000”. Made in the late 1970s. Fine, tonneau-shaped, center seconds, water-resistant, stainless steel chronometer wristwatch with date and integrated, stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a service invoice from Rolex, Geneva, dated May 13, 1988 along with correspondence, a copy of a Rolex advertisement, a pamphlet on Wally Herbert, and a letter from Wally Herbert confirming the use of this timepiece on two Arctic Expeditions. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, polished bezel, screwed down case back and crown, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Satiné silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 5035 with quartz standardization, rhodium-plated, 11 jewels, adjusted to temperature, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

C

3-9

D

3 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

Sir Walter William "Wally" Herbert (24 October 1934 - 12 June 2007) as an English polar explorer, writer and artist. In 1969 he became the first man to walk undisputed to the North Pole. He wore this Oysterquartz on his 1971 expedition to Greenland, during which he made a film on the polar Eskimos, and in 1979, when he circumnavigated Greenland.

w

76

OYSTER

77

OYSTER

Steel and Platinum Yacht-Master, Ref. 16622 77 Stainless Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Yacht-Master, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 16622. Made in 2002, sold April 23, 2003. Very fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel and platinum wristwatch with date and Rolex stainless steel Rolex Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, Certificate (now void), anchor and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished, screwed-down case back and crown, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, frosted, bi-directional revolving platinum time-lapse bezel, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Platinum with applied luminous white gold round, baton and triangular indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous white gold skeleton hands, red second hand. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

2

D

1 - 01

M

US$: 5,500 - 7,500 / €: 3,700 - 5,000 78

2

AA

OYSTER

79

OYSTER

Perpetual, Ref. 6285, Enamel Dial 78 Oyster Rolex, ”Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer”, Ref. 6285. Made circa 1953. Exceptionally rare and fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with special enamel dial. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, engine-turned bezel with hour divisions. D. Blue and ivory enamel depicting a peacock with applied faceted gold baton and round indexes. Yellow gold dauphine hands. M. Cal. A.260, 9 3/4’’’, rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

3 - 01

M

3*

US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000

80

OYSTER

81

OYSTER

Datejust, Ref. 6609 79 Thunderbird, Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 6609. Made in the 1950s. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date and an 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bidirectional revolving reeded and graduated bezel, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Satiné silver with applied yellow gold faceted dart indexes and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds track, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold alpha hands. M. Cal. 1065, rhodiumplated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, blued steel Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm. Approx. overall length 180 mm.

C

3-9

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 6,000 - 8,000 / €: 4,000 - 5,400

82

3*

AA

OYSTER

83

OYSTER

84

OYSTER

Ref. 16264 80 Datejust, Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16264. Made in 1997, sold on January 4, 1999. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel and 18K white gold wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Warranty Certificate (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, white gold bidirectional revolving reeded and graduated bezel, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Anthracite “Jubilee” with applied radial white gold Arabic numerals, aperture for the date. Luminous white gold baton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

3

D

1 - 01

M

US$: 3,500 - 4,500 / €: 2,300 - 3,000 85

2

AA

OYSTER

Ref 6511, First Generation 81 Day-Date, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Officially Certified Chronometer”, Ref. 6511. Made in 1956. Very rare and fine, early, tonneau-shaped, center-seconds, selfwinding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with day, date and an 18K yellow gold President bracelet. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, faceted bezel. D. White with applied faceted yellow gold baton indexes, luminous dots, outer minute/seconds track, aperture for the day and the date. Luminous yellow gold Alpha hands. M. Cal. 1055, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock-absorber, free sprung self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

3 - 01

M

3*

AAA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

T

he elusive reference 6511 was the first Day-Date ever produced. Made for a year only in 1956 after having recently been given the patent for the Day-Date combined mechanism. In the history of Antiquorum it is the first yellow gold Reference 6511 to appear at auction, its desirability further enhanced by the rare original dial with its red writing.

86

OYSTER

87

OYSTER

Ref. 1803, White Gold 82 Day-Date, Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified", Ref. 1803. Made in the late 1950s. Fine and rare, tonneau-shaped, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K white gold wristwatch with day and date, and an 18K white gold Rolex President bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, fluted bezel, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Satiné silver with applied white gold baton indexes and luminous dots, apertures for the days of the week and the date. Luminous white gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1555, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3-9

D

3 - 6 - 01

M

US$: 9,000 - 14,000 / €: 6,000 - 9,000

88

3*

AA

OYSTER

89

OYSTER

90

OYSTER

Ref. 1803 83 Day-Date, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 1803. Made in 1964. Very fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch with day and date and an 18K yellow gold President bracelet with concealed deployant clasp. Accompanied by the original chronometer certificate, booklet, various receipts, an extra bracelet and its original fitted box. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, faceted bezel, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Satiné gold with applied yellow gold baton indexes, luminous dots, outer minute/seconds division, aperture for the day of the week and quick-set date. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1556, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straightline lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm. Approx. overall length 180 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 7,500 - 10,000 / €: 5,000 - 6,700 91

3*

AA

OYSTER

Ref. 1803 84 Day-Date, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 1803. Made in 1966. Very fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch with day and date and an 18K yellow gold President bracelet with concealed deployant clasp. Accompanied by the original warranty, chronometer certificate, booklet and its original fitted box. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, faceted bezel, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Satiné gold with applied yellow gold baton indexes, luminous dots, outer minute/seconds division, aperture for the day of the week and quick-set date. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1556, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straightline lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, selfcompensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm. Approx. overall length 180 mm.

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US$: 9,000 - 12,000 / €: 6,000 - 8,000 92

3*

AA

OYSTER

T

he reference 1803 was made with a wide variety of dials and indexes. This model, in addition to retaining its original case back sticker and remaining unpolished, has the rare variety of sloping indexes resembling a ramp. 93

OYSTER

94

OYSTER

Day-Date, Ref. 1802, Sultanate of Oman 85 Platinum Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 1802/1804, retailed by Asprey. Made in 1973. Fine, tonneau-shaped, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, platinum and diamond wristwatch with day, date and a platinum Rolex President bracelet with concealed clasp. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, case back engraved: Asprey, polished bezel, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Blue with 8 brilliant diamond-set and two baguette-set diamond markers, outer minute/seconds divisions, red imprint of “Sultan of Oman” crest, apertures for the day of the week and the date. Luminous white gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1556, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 30,000 - 40,000 / €: 20,000 - 27,000 95

3*

AAA

OYSTER

Ref. 1804, Diamonds 86 Day-Date, Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Day-Date, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 1804/1803. Made in 1976. Fine tonneau-shaped, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K white gold and diamond wristwatch with day, date and an 18K white gold Rolex President bracelet with concealed clasp. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bezel set with 46 diamonds, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Turquoise with 8 brilliant diamond-set, two baguette-set diamond markers and luminous dots, outer minute/seconds divisions, apertures for the day of the week and the date. Luminous white gold baton hands. M. Cal. 1556, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 25,000 - 35,000 / €: 17,000 - 23,000

96

3*

AAA

OYSTER

97

Explorer

I

n the 1950s, daring individuals set out exploring the last uncharted frontiers, braving highest mountains or deepest seas, while aerospace scientists and astronauts would push the limits to conquer space and visit the moon in the future decade. Often, the fine line determining success or failure of such venture was marked by the quality of the equipment obtainable and novel technologies allowed manufacturing diving equipment or protective gear for mountain climbing, which altogether couldn’t eradicate risk, yet succeeded in minimizing dangers. A tool of vital importance to any adventurer was his reliable rugged watch, which allowed precision timekeeping under adverse conditions and proved fit enough outfitting perilous expeditions. Since the 1920s, Rolex had gained a solid reputation by pioneering innovative features like self-winding, water-resistance or shock-protection and transforming these advances into dependable mainstream products. As a logical consequence, mountaineers and divers turned to the firm in hope of ordering proper supplies. Watches however, proved far from being perfect at the time and hence, the Swiss manufacturer set out conquering the horological frontiers. By the early 1950s, Rolex conceived a durable wristwatch outlasting extreme conditions and the company provided expeditions with prototypes for testing in harsh environments by the end of 1952. These timepieces were in fact ‘reinforced Oyster’ or ‘bubbleback’ models, carrying no distinct names on their dials, yet essential tools to measure the use of oxygen or synchronize a team’s projects. Rolex registered the ‘Explorer’ name on January 26, 1953 in Geneva and the firm provided a number of wristwatches for the triumphant British Himalaya expedition led by Colonel John Hunt, although these timepieces didn’t feature the ‘Explorer’ name on their dials. Shortly, two of the expedition’s climbers created universal headlines: Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa, Tensing Norgay climbed to the peak of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953, the latter wearing a Rolex wristwatch with white dial, which is now on exhibit in Rolex’s Geneva museum. Though, time enjoying their fabulous victory on the world’s icy summit was limited to minutes and after taking photographs, the overwhelmed duo started descending from the peak. Later, Hillary summed up the duo’s success in a dry comment, made to expedition member Lowe: “Well, George, we knocked the bastard off!” Colonel Hunt heralded the expedition watches as “splendid”, because they provided accurate timing and were waterproof, unaffected by excessive temperatures and self-winding, thus eliminating the bothersome need winding them by slipping off the protective gloves. The ‘Explorer II’ was manufactured for cave explorers or ‘spleleologists,’ roaming the underworld in sufficient numbers to produce a tool watch for such courageous species, which kept track of time without the benefits of natural daylight.

98

99

EXPLORER

6098, Explorer 87 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Precision”, Explorer Self-Winding, Ref. 6098. Made in 1953. Fine and extremely rare, water-resistant, center-seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. C. Two-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. White with applied steel Arabic, luminous dart and luminous dot indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 775, rhodium-plated, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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3 - 6*

AAA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

To many collectors, the reference 6098 can be considered as the first version of the Explorer. Not being a chronometer model before the mid-fifties, it bore the words “precision” and “Self Winding”, attesting to its early origins.

100

EXPLORER

101

EXPLORER

88 “Pre-Explorer” Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Precision”, Ref. 6098, used by Nigel Wace during the Gough Island Scientific Survey 1955-1956. Made in the early 1950s. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch. C. Three-body, polished, screwed-down case back and crown, case back engraved: Gough Island Scientific Survey 1955 - 1956. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes. Luminous steel alpha hands. M. Cal. 775, rhodium plated, 19 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating Breguet balancespring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Height 13 mm.

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

102

3*

AA

EXPLORER

T

he eleven members of the Gough Island Scientific Survey spent over six months recording details of the island’s geological history and its flora and fauna. Since the island is a dot in the farthest reaches of the South Atlantic this expedition would be a footnote in the story of the International Geophysical Year if it were not for one small detail. One of the watches used by the expedition has recently surfaced - it is the present watch. Like many of the watches made by Rolex in the 1950s, it poses more questions than it answers. These watches were given by the society to the members of expeditions and it seems that they were not expected to be returned on the completion of the expedition, as the case backs are engraved with the title of the expedition (which makes it impossible for them to be re-used). This watch was given to Nigel Wace, a 26 year old botanist at Oxford; who in later life became the leading authority on the plant life of Gough Island and the other three Tristan da Cunha islands when he became head of the department of Biogeography at the National University of Australia. What makes this watch unusual is that it is a reference 6098, not the normal 6150 reference seen on early Explorers. It also has the last 3 numbers of the serial number engraved inside the case back; this is usually seen on watches such as the British Military Submariners and the Comex watches. The common feature amongst all these watches is that they have engraved backs; the purpose of the serial number inside the case back is to ensure that case backs were not mixed up when they were sent out for engraving. This almost certainly means that the case back engraving of the expedition’s name was done by Rolex, not by the society. 103

EXPLORER

104

EXPLORER

6150 89 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Precision”, Ref. 6150. Made in 1953. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex folded Oyster bracelet C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, inclined bezel, concave lugs. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minutes/seconds divisions. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 775, 10 1/2''', rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, Super-balance balance, selfcompensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 7,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,700

T

he Ref. 6150 was the first Explorer to be fitted with Mercedes hands. By late 1953, the 6150 had become the 6350. Promotional material for the Explorer described it as the 'reinforced Oyster' and emphasized its tough construction and reliability in harsh conditions.

105

EXPLORER

106

EXPLORER

6350, Explorer, Honeycomb Dial 90 Ref. Rolex, Explorer Oyster Perpetual, officially certified chronometer, Ref. 6350. Made in 1953. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, concave lugs. D. Black honeycomb with luminous Arabic and baton indexes. Luminous gold alpha hands. M. Cal. 775, rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

A

few different Explorers were fitted with the rare honeycomb dials among which the 6350, 6298 and 6610. This unusual feature gives a texture and depth to the dial that gives it its unmistakable look and instant appeal. It is exceptionally rare to find honeycomb dials in today’s market.

107

EXPLORER

Explorer Gilt Minute Track Rolex, Oyster Perpetual "Explorer", Officially Certified Chronometer, Ref. 6610. Made in 1957. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster expansion bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and indexes, gilt outer minute track. Luminous gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straightline lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, selfcompensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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C

3 - 10

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3*

AA

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

T

he Explorer, Ref. 6610 was the fourth Explorer. Launched in 1955, it was fitted with the 1030 movement. On all sports models from this period the seconds hand was painted white. This was the last Explorer to be fitted with a honeycomb dial.

108

EXPLORER

109

EXPLORER

110

EXPLORER

1016 - Explorer Tropical Dial 92 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1016. Made in 1962. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3 - 10

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3 - 8 - 01

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3 - 10*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 6,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,000

T

he Ref. 1016 was initially fitted with the 1530 movement and later the 1560 movement with Microstella regulating screws on the balance and since 1975, cal. 1570 with a hack mechanism was utilized. The 1016's successful blend of the sports and dress watch look has made it very attractive to today's collectors. Ref. 1016 remained in the Rolex catalogue until 1989, when it was removed prior to its replacement by the 14270 model.

111

EXPLORER

5700, Stainless Steel Explorer-Date 93 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer-Date, Precision”, Ref. 5700/1500. Made in 1963. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Gray with applied steel baton indexes, luminous dots, outer minute/seconds track, aperture for the date. Luminous steel épée hands. M. Cal. 1530, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shockabsorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 12.5 mm.

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US$: 2,500 - 3,500 / €: 1,700 - 2,300

112

3*

AA

EXPLORER

I

n the early days of the Explorer, Rolex was unsure of the model's potential. As a result the name was affixed to a number of models not immediately recognizable as Explorers. Today the name and the look are so intimately entwined it seems out of place to apply the name to watches which were so obviously not what we would call 'Explorers'. There were two distinct variations on the theme and they seem to have been aimed at two distinct markets. The first variation was the so-called 'Air-King' Explorer [see lot 94]. The second variation on the theme are 'dress Explorers.' These were standard Oyster Perpetuals in steel or gold with white (or more rarely, black) non-Explorer dials featuring markers and hands, but signed 'Explorer' on the dials. Seen in both date and non-date forms, these watches all seem to have been sold in the North American market. The Explorer Date bears a model number 5700, previously unseen on any other Explorer (the nondate model is a model 5504, which interestingly is more often seen on Explorers with the standard dial). It seems that these watches were made in the 1950s or 1960s when Rolex was unsure if the Explorer would succeed or not, and attempted to increase the popularity of the watch by broadening the line. When the mainstream Explorer began to sell, these 'piggyback' models were withdrawn. As a result of its limited production, these models are extremely rare and are presently sought after by collectors. 113

EXPLORER

114

EXPLORER

5500 Stainless Steel Explorer 94 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Precision”, Ref. 5500/1002. Made in 1964. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster expansion bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, oeilde-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 34 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 4,000 - 6,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,000

T

he Ref. 5500 is the so-called 'Air-King' Explorer. Rolex began to fit an Explorer-type dial to the 'Air-King' Reference 5500. The Explorer dial was marked 'Precision' rather than 'Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified' as we would expect to see on the 'Air-King'.

115

EXPLORER

T

he “Space Dweller” was first introduced on the Japanese market in 1963, just after a visit to Japan by the Project Mercury astronauts. Initiated in 1958 and completed in 1963, Project Mercury was the United States' first man-in-space program. The Space Dweller was made to honor these men, who were (at that time) seen as the ultimate explorers. The watch was not a major seller, either in Japan or elsewhere, and very few of the "Space Dweller" watches have surfaced. 116

EXPLORER

1016, Space-Dweller 95 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Space-Dweller, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1016. Made in 1963. Fine and extremely rare center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a recent service invoice and a pouch. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000 117

3*

EXPLORER

1016 - Explorer 96 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1016. Made in 1965, sold on June 18, 1966. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Chronometer Certificate and Guarantee (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 7,000 - 12,000 / €: 4,700 - 8,000

118

3*

AA

EXPLORER

119

EXPLORER

1016 - Explorer 97 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1016. Made in 1985, sold in December 1986. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box and Guarantee Certificate (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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2

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700 120

AA

EXPLORER

121

EXPLORER

R

olex watches have been the first companion of choice for many special units, from British commandos to French Marines to South African Special Forces. The classic models were the Submariners A 6538 (lot 160), 5513 (lot 175) and 5517 (lot 176), but also Tudors reference 9401 (lot 142) as well as others. The German Luftwaffe (Air Force) were looking for watches to equip their pilots in the late 1970s to help them navigate at night. The German military had ordered 175 Mcdonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom and were in search of a watch that was discreet but also had great readability in dark cockpits. After some research they decided that the Rolex Explorer was the perfect tool for that goal and ordered approximately 100 pieces. This particular model was delivered in 1979 and decommissioned in 1982. It is the first time that a military issue Explorer 1016 has ever appeared at auction and it is exceptional to find an example still accompanied by its decommission paper. This model could be considered the last truly military-issued Rolex. 122

EXPLORER

(McDonnell Douglas F4 Phantom) 1016 - Explorer Bundeswehr 98 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1016. Made in 1976, case back engraved for the German Bundeswehr. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a decommission paper dated February 2, 1982 and Rolex correspondence. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, case back engraved with German military numbers. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 28,000 - 34,000 / €: 19,000 - 23,000

123

2

EXPLORER

124

EXPLORER

14270, Explorer, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 99 Ref Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 14270. Made in 1991. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, sapphire crystal. D. Black with applied luminous white gold Arabic numerals and triangular and bâton indexes. Luminous white gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3000, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

125

2*

AA

EXPLORER

T

he so called "Black Out" Explorer was produced in 1991 for a period of only six months with the 3-6-9 numbers painted in black enamel. This configuration was found only in the first generation early serials and is perhaps the rarest of all sapphire Rolex sport watches. Today this rare version is highly sought after by Rolex collectors.

126

EXPLORER

(detail of the “Black-out”)

(detail of lot 101)

14270 "Black Out" Explorer 100 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 14270. Made in the early 1990s. Fine center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box and certificate (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, sapphire crystal. D. Black with applied luminous white gold Arabic numerals and triangular and bâton indexes. Luminous white gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3000, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 9,000 - 13,000 / €: 6,000 - 8,000

127

2

AAA

EXPLORER

14270 Explorer 101 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Explorer, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 14270. Made in 1997, sold July 7, 1998. Fine center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Certificate (now void), red seal and 2 instruction booklets. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, sapphire crystal. D. Black with applied luminous white gold Arabic numerals and triangular and baton indexes. Luminous white gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3000, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, selfcompensating flat balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 3,000 - 4,000 / €: 2,000 - 2,700

128

2

A

EXPLORER

129

EXPLORER

Hand Steve McQueen” Mark I 102 “Straight Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1655. Made in 1970. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel, large orange 24-hour hand and a stainless steel folded Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a blank warranty, hangtag and booklet and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, graduated 24-hour bezel, screwed-down case back and protected crown, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous white baton hands, large luminous orange arrow to indicate the diurnal and nocturnal hours on the 24-hour graduated bezel. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000 130

3*

AAA

EXPLORER

I

n 1971, the Rolex Explorer II, Ref. 1655, was introduced. It was fitted with either the 1570 or 1575 movement. One of Rolex's more unusual designs, it testifies to the company's commitment to the sport watch in that it was designed specific professional or recreational use. The Explorer II is an adaptation of the GMT-Master, with a fixed bezel. On the first version there was no luminous circle on the seconds hand and the print on the distinctive bezel was small and printed closer to the dial edge of the bezel.

131

EXPLORER

132

EXPLORER

Hand Steve McQueen” 103 “Straight Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1655. Made in 1971. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel, large orange 24-hour hand and a stainless steel folded Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original chronometer certificate, original fitted box and a letter from Rolex confirming the delivery of the certificate. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, graduated 24-hour bezel, screwed-down case back and protected crown, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous white baton hands, large luminous orange arrow to indicate the diurnal and nocturnal hours on the 24-hour graduated bezel. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3

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3 - 01

M

3*

AAA

US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000

O

n the second version there was no luminous circle on the seconds hand, however, the print on the distinctive bezel was larger and printed in the center of the bezel. This configuration is illustrated in the Rolex advertisement featuring Jean Claude Killy. 133

EXPLORER

134

EXPLORER

1655, “Steve McQueen” 104 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1655. Made in 1979. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel, large orange 24-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, graduated 24-hour bezel, screwed-down case back and protected crown, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous white baton hands, large luminous orange arrow to indicate the diurnal and nocturnal hours on the 24-hour graduated bezel. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

C

3

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2 - 01

M

2

AA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

O

n the third version a luminous circle was added to the seconds hand and the shape of the Rolex crown on the dial was changed. The 1655's design was strongly influenced by early 1970s style and it did not enjoy strong sales during its main production years.

135

EXPLORER

1655, “Steve McQueen” 105 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1655. Made in 1979. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel, large orange 24-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, Warranty Certificate (now void), hang tag, red seal, 2 instruction booklets and recent service invoices. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, graduated 24-hour bezel, screwed-down case back and protected crown, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous white baton hands, large luminous orange arrow to indicate the diurnal and nocturnal hours on the 24-hour graduated bezel. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 18,000 - 24,000 / €: 12,000 - 16,000

O

n the final version the extra hour hand was changed to red (instead of orange). In the mid 1985, Ref. 1655 was removed from the Rolex catalog and was replaced in late 1985 by Ref. 16550. Today, the Ref. 1655 is called "Steve McQueen" by English-speaking collectors and "Freccione" by Italian collectors. 136

137

EXPLORER

138

EXPLORER

1655, “Tangerine Steve McQueen” 106 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1655. Made in 1983, sold on December 11, 1984. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel, large orange 24-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee Certificate (now void) and a recent service invoices. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, graduated 24-hour bezel, screwed-down case back and protected crown, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous white baton hands, large luminous orange arrow to indicate the diurnal and nocturnal hours on the 24-hour graduated bezel. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 25,000 - 35,000 / €: 17,000 - 23,000

This watch is illustrated in “1908-2008, 100 Years of Rolex”, by Franca and Guido Mondani, Guido Mondani Editore, Genova (Italy), 2008 Edition, p 147. 139

EXPLORER

II, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 107 Explorer Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Explorer II", Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16550, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made circa 1984. Fine and very rare, two time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, 24-hour bezel and hand, independently adjustable 12-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated 24-hour bezel, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3085, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 18,000 - 24,000 / €: 12,000 - 16,000 140

2

AAA

EXPLORER

141

EXPLORER

II, Ivory Dial 108 Explorer Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Explorer II”, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16550. Made circa 1987. Fine, two time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, 24-hour bezel and hand, independently adjustable 12-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void), an instruction booklet and a service invoice dated April 20, 2007. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated 24-hour bezel, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Ivory with applied luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3085, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

I

t is believed that as a result of an error during manufacture, instead of the intended white color paint, the paint used by Rolex was ivorycolored. Due to the model's lack of popularity, very few of these watches sold - making them extremely sought after by collectors today. This Reference also came with a black dial and later with a white dial (1986-1988).

142

EXPLORER

143

EXPLORER

II, Ivory Dial, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 109 Explorer Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Explorer II", Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16550, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made circa 1989. Fine and very rare, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, 24-hour bezel and hand, independently adjustable 12-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original Warranty Document (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated 24-hour bezel, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Ivory with applied luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3085, rhodiumplated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 37,000 - 44,000 / €: 25,000 - 30,000 144

3*

AAA

EXPLORER

145

EXPLORER

146

EXPLORER

16570, Explorer II, Ivory Dial 110 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 16570. Made in 1991. Fine, two time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, independently adjustable 12-hour hand, and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original certificate (now void) service invoice, booklets and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, steel bezel graduated in 24 hours, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Off-white with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands, second-time-zone red arrow hand independently adjustable for the second timezone. M. Cal. 3185, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, free-sprung self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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2

AAA

US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000

U

ntil very recently it was thought that only the Explorer II Ref 16550 came with the desirable Ivory dial (see lot 108109). As can be seen in the following lot, this reference also came with this exotic version of the dial and it will not be long before this reference enjoys the same cult following as its sister version.

147

EXPLORER

148

EXPLORER

16570 Explorer II 111 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Explorer II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 16570. Made circa 1995. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, independently adjustable 12-hour hand, and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), booklet and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, steel bezel graduated in 24 hours, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. White with applied luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous black skeleton hands, 24 hour red arrow hand for the second time-zone. M. Cal. 3185, rhodiumplated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 2,500 - 3,500 / €: 1,700 - 2,300 149

2

AA

GMT - Master

I

n the 1950s innovations in aviation technology made transatlantic travel a more appealing option than ever before. The airline Pan Am quickly emerged as a leader in transatlantic travel by jet plane. Due to the unprecedented success, that met the introduction the Rolex Sports models, it came as know surprise when the world's largest airline Pan-Am commissioned a watch to be designed which was specific to their needs, enabling their pilots to keep track of time in two locations. In conjunction with Pan-Am.'s Captain Frederick Libby (a decorated World War II veteran and one of the airlines most respected navigators), Rene-Paul Jeanneret devised the concept of a watch with an additional hour hand, which revolved once every 24 hours and a rotatable bezel marked with those same 24 hours, hence the GMT-Master was created.

150

Although the watch had been made to a Pan-Am requirement many other pilots came to depend on the watch; particularly military pilots who kept the rotating bezel at "12", thereby enabling the watch to give them both civilian and military (or 24 hour) time. Amongst the pilots who came to rely on the GMT Masters most, where those chosen by NASA to fly the North American X 15. Rolex perceived the GMT-Master almost solely as a pilots watch. Whilst it had been the introduction of the Boeing 707 that had caused Pan Am to commission the GMT Master, it was the people who flew on them as passengers who became the main customers for the watch. With the introduction of jet travel, many people were now travelling between countries and of course between time zones. For these new international travellers the GMT Master was the answer to their prayers.

151

GMT - MASTER

I

n 1954, the first GMT Master, ref. 6542, was launched. This model was very distinctive, it had Mercedes hands and an extra hour hand had been added which was clearly differentiated by the triangle at the tip. Instead of the usual metal bezel insert, there was a special insert of transparent acrylic which had twenty-four hour markings printed on its underside. This material was chosen to cut down reflectivity and avoid blinding the pilots. This acrylic bezel insert was the first item to be changed in 1956, giving way to a metal insert with the numbers now screen-printed. These new bezels were less likely to crack than the earlier plastic ones but were much more likely to fade in bright sunlight. The original plastic bezel inserts were luminous and it seems that the tritium used to paint them had somehow become contaminated with Strontium 90. Once the problem was fixed, Rolex made sure to confirm to its customers that the model was safe for use. The present watch includes a note from Rolex which states: “It is hereby certified that the bezel and dial of this GMT Master No. 461831 have been tested and do not contain any substance in violation of the Atomic Energy Commission regulations."

152

GMT - MASTER

6542, GMT-Master - Perspex Bezel 112 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 6542. Made in 1959. Fine and rare, two time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, certificate (now void), instruction pamphlet, compliance certificate, red seal and Rolex Oyster “Swimpruf” tag. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second time-zone in 24 hours, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute track, aperture for the date. Luminous steel "skeleton" hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 35,000 - 45,000 / €: 23,000 - 30,000 153

3*

AA

GMT - MASTER

R

olex realized that anyone who could afford to travel by airplane in the 1960s was wealthy enough to afford a gold (not a steel) watch, and so Rolex began to make the GMT Master in both 18k gold and in two-tone. Interestingly the yellow gold version was produced first and used the (by now) discontinued reference 6542 'shoulderless' case, while the two-tone version retained the ref. 1675. Both versions were distinguished by their new brown colored dials and bezels, these watches first hit the market in late 1963.

154

GMT - MASTER

6542, Yellow Gold GMT-Master - Perspex Bezel 113 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 6542. Made in 1958. Fine and extremely rare, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch with date, special 24-hour perspex bezel and hand and an 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bidirectional revolving perspex bezel for the second time-zone in 24 hours, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Matte gold with applied luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold alpha hands. M. Cal. 1065, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 39 mm. Thickness 13 mm. Approx. overall length 195 mm.

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3*

US$: 50,000 - 80,000 / €: 34,000 - 55,000

155

GMT - MASTER

T

he GMT Master was an immediate success, and was quickly adopted as the official timepiece of many of the world’s leading airlines. A 1960 Rolex catalog stated that twenty out of twenty-one aircraft navigators considered it an important professional aid. In late 1950’s, the second generation GMT Master was launched, the reference 1675. The 1675 model was fitted with the protective crown guards. On the first models the profile of the crown guard is pointed.

156

GMT - MASTER

1675, GMT-Master 114 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1675. Made in 1960. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, Chronometer Certificate, Guarantee Certificate (now void) and instruction pamphlet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 5,000 - 7,000 / €: 3,400 - 4,700

157

3 - 9*

AA

GMT - MASTER

1675, GMT-Master, Transparent Back 115 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 1675. Made in 1961. Fine and extremely rare, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, specially made transparent case back, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the Official Chronometer Certificate, a hang tag, instruction pamphlet, a booklet called “The Story of Time” and service records with correspondence from Rolex, Geneva dated 1962. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000 158

GMT - MASTER

GMT Master, Ref. 1675 with a transparent caseback

A

n interesting request by Professor Hugh G. Wales, a market research professor from University of South Africa, has allowed the creation of this possibly unique GMT. The letter from Rolex S.A. dated March 7, 1962 confirms the acceptance of his request to have the steel caseback exchanged to a more delicate and intriguing transparent caseback. This has allowed him to conveniently study the movement of the watch; perfect for his inquisitive mind.

159

GMT - MASTER

160

GMT - MASTER

1675, GMT-Master 116 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1675. Made in 1960. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, brown and yellow graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 12,000 - 16,000 / €: 8,000 - 11,000 161

3*

AA

GMT - MASTER

1675, GMT-Master, Retailed by Serpico Y Laino 117 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1675. Made in 1960. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000 162

4 - 7*

AA

GMT - MASTER

S

erpico Y Laino was the biggest and most important watch retailer of Rolex watches in Caracas, Venezuela, and one of the most active watch sellers in South America. Their signature appears on many of finest Swiss watch brands of the 20th Century, however, their signature on a Rolex watch is quite rare. Serpico Y Laino remained in business until the 1970s.

163

GMT - MASTER

O

n the second generation of the reference 1675 the protective crown guards adopted a new rounded profile which replaced the pointed versions. 164

GMT - MASTER

1675, GMT-Master 118 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1675. Made in 1966. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original guarantee (now void), Chronometer Certificate and original box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3 - 7*

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000 165

AA

GMT - MASTER

166

GMT - MASTER

1675 Gold GMT Master 119 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 1675. Made in 1968, sold July 17, 1969. Fine and rare, two time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and an 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet. Accompanied by the original guarantee, Chronometer Certificate, instruction booklet and various purchase and service documents and original box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, bronze colored graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Brown with luminous round, triangular and bâton gold indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and five positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 16,000 - 20,000 / €: 11,000 - 13,000 167

3*

AAA

GMT - MASTER

T

iffany & Co. is a US jewelry retailer founded by Charles Tiffany and Teddy Young in New York City in 1837 as a ‘stationery and fancy goods emporium.’ The store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items, and operated as Tiffany, Young and Ellis in lower Manhattan. The name was shortened to Tiffany & Co in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control, and the firm's emphasis on jewelry was established. Tiffany & Co. has since opened stores in major cities all over the world. Due to their important international prestige, Cartier and Tiffany were the last retailer names to appear as a co-brand on a Rolex dial. Both Cartier and Tiffany ceased to be Rolex agents in the late 1980s. The high prices now obtained for any Rolex with either of these two names on a dial is due not only to the fact that these were the last two companies ever to have their names on a Rolex dial but also to the tradition and heritage that these two names signify.

168

GMT - MASTER

1675, GMT-Master, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 120 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1675. Made in 1971. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, black graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour timezone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 5,000 - 7,000 / €: 3,400 - 4,700 169

3*

AA

GMT - MASTER

1675 Yellow Gold GMT-Master 121 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 1675. Made in the early 1970s. Very fine and rare, two-time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date, special black 24-hour bezel and hand and an 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous gold round, baton and triangular indexes, outer minute/ seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and five positions, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3 - 9*

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

170

AA

GMT - MASTER

171

GMT - MASTER

172

GMT - MASTER

Ref. 1675 GMT-Master, US Forces Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, GMT Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1675. Sold on September 29th, 1977. Fine, two-time-zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original certificate (now void) and a booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwdown case back and crown, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

122

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US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700 173

3*

AA

GMT - MASTER

16750, GMT-Master 123 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual

Date, GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 16750. Made circa 1986. Fine, two-time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24 hour bezel and hand and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box and warranty (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, red and blue graduated bidirectional revolving bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, screwed-down case back and crown, winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, baton and triangular steel indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands, red arrow for the second time zone. M. Cal. 3075, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 3,500 - 4,500 / €: 2,300 - 3,000 174

3*

AA

GMT - MASTER

I

n 1981, the Ref. 1675 was given the 3075 movement and its reference number was changed to 16750. Rolex introduced the same movement upgrades to a new reference of GMT-Master, the 16750, as it did for the Sea-Dweller (ref. 16660) and Submariner (ref. 16800). Four years later in 1985, the GMT-Master II, ref. 16760, was launched. 175

GMT - MASTER

The reference 16753 was designated for the two-tone model of the new 16750.

176

GMT - MASTER

16753, Steel & Gold GMT-Master 124 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 16753. Made circa 1980. Very fine and rare, two-time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel and 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date, special gold and bronze 24-hour bezel and hand and a steel and 18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, instruction booklet, red seal and a multi lingual translation pamphlet of the Guarantee (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bidirectional revolving gold bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Brown with luminous gold round, baton and triangular indexes, outer minute/ seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3075, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and five positions, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 3,500 - 4,500 / €: 2,300 - 3,000 177

2

AA

GMT - MASTER

I

nterestingly, while the stainless steel ref. 16750 (Lot 123) and two-tone ref. 16753 (Lot 124) models both retained the familiar acrylic crystal, the solid gold version ref. 16758 featured a synthetic sapphire crystal like those mounted on the new generation of Submariners and Sea-Dweller.

178

GMT - MASTER

16758, Gold GMT-Master 125 Ref Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual,

GMT-Master, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 16758/16750. Sold on November 4th, 1986. Very fine and rare, two-time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date, special bronze dial and bronze 24-hour bezel and hand and an 18K yellow gold Jubilee bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void) and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving bronze bezel for the second 24-hour time-zone, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Bronze with luminous gold round, baton and triangular indexes, outer minute/ seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous coated steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3075, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, free-sprung mono-metallic balance adjusted to temperatures and five positions, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3-9

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3 - 01

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US$: 7,000 - 12,000 / €: 4,700 - 8,000 179

3*

AA

GMT - MASTER

I

n 1983, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II, the original version of which bore the reference 16760. The 16760 featured the new caliber 3085 movement, which separated the hour hand from the large triangle 24-hour hand, to provide instantaneous setting of the second time zone on the face of the watch itself. Further, the seconds hand only hacked when the crown was pulled all the way out to the standard time-setting position, while it continued running when merely setting the hour hand to the new destination time. This enabled the GMT-Master II to maintain the legendary Rolex accuracy without interruption while traversing the globe. And now, since home time & local time could be read simultaneously on the face of the watch, the rotating bezel could be used to calculate a third time zone if needed. The watch was also the first GMT to be produced exclusively with a sapphire crystal. The rotating bezel gained a ratcheting action and the bezel insert was only offered in the new color combination of black and red. The 16760 featured an extra-thick case, some .5mm thicker than its predecessor, as well as a thicker bezel and crown guards. This has led to collectors names of “Fat Lady” and “Sophia Loren.” Produced only until 1988, the short-run 16760 was replaced by the much longer running ref. 16710. 180

GMT - MASTER

Ref. 16760 GMT-Master II Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, GMT-Master II, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 16760. Made circa 1985. Very fine and rare, two-time zone, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, special 24-hour bezel and hand, independently adjustable 12-hour hand and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Warranty Certificate (now void) and an instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bidirectional revolving red and blue bezel for the diurnal and nocturnal hours of the second time zone in 24 hours, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular steel indexes, outer minute/ seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3085, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and five positions, selfcompensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

126

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3 - 7 - 01

M

US$: 8,000 - 10,000 / €: 5,400 - 6,700

181

3*

AA

Tudor

M

any collectors are unfamiliar with or know little about the up and coming Tudor brand. The name “Tudor” was first registered in Geneva by Isaac Blumenthal on December 13, 1906 under registration number 21383. It was then transferred to Philippe Huther de Colombiere in 1926, and finally sold to Hans Wilsdorf in 1936. No one has precise records, but the first traces of the Rolex-produced Tudors appear in the mid-forties, after the Second World War. Despite the generally prevailing public opinion, there is actually very little difference between the design and conception of Tudor and Rolex. Apart from Tudor watch movements generally having fewer jewels, their conception and construction were virtually identical to those of Rolex. Rolex felt strongly that in producing a “second line” of watches, the public perception of Tudor had to be equivalent to that of Rolex. As such, they even extended the Rolex warranty to all Tudors at the time. All early Tudors, until the mid-1990's, featured Rolex crowns and cases. Rolex bracelets were used until 1971 when the first Tudor signed bracelets appeared on women’s watches.

182

183

TUDOR

7031 127 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph,” Ref. 7031/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1971, sold July 10, 1972. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, instruction booklet and Guarantee document (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, tachometer graduation on the black bezel to 500 units per hour, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and black with luminous indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous steel dauphine hands. M. Cal. 7734, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

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3 - 01

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000 184

3*

A

TUDOR

185

TUDOR

186

TUDOR

7032 128 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph,” Ref. 7032/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1971. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, tachometer graduation on the steel bezel to 500 units per hour, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and black with luminous indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous steel dauphine hands. M. Cal. 7734, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3-9

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3 - 01

M

US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000

187

3*

A

TUDOR

7149 129 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph”, Ref. 7149/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1972. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box and a multi-lingual translation pamphlet of the Guarantee (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, tachometer graduation on the black bezel to 500 units per hour, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and black with luminous baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. 234, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

188

2

A

TUDOR

189

TUDOR

190

TUDOR

7149 130 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph”, Ref. 7149/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1972. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a stainless steel Oyster expansion bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, instruction booklet and Guarantee document (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, tachometer graduation on the blue bezel to 500 units per hour, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite with luminous baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. 234, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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D

3 - 10

3 - 01

M

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

191

3 - 10*

A

TUDOR

192

TUDOR

7159 131 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph,” Ref. 7159/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1972. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, tachometer graduation on the steel bezel to 500 units per hour, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and black with luminous baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 234, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700 193

2

A

TUDOR

7169 132 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph”, Ref. 7169/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1972. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by booklets and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for elapsed time, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and black with luminous baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. 234, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

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3 - 01

M

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

194

3*

A

TUDOR

195

TUDOR

196

TUDOR

Ref. 7169 Tudor, “Oyster Date Chronograph”, Ref. 7169/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1972. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with date, round-button chronograph, register and a stainless steel Tudor Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee document (now void), 2 extra links, a hang tag and a service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, crown and buttons, graduated bidirectional revolving blue bezel for elapsed time, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and blue with luminous baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds and the 45-minute register, aperture for the date at 6. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. 234, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

133

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M

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700 197

2

A

TUDOR

198

TUDOR

9420, Chrono Time 134 Ref. Tudor, “Automatic - Chrono Time,” Ref. 9420/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the 1980s. Fine, self-winding, water resistant to 100 meters, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box and a service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, black bezel with tachometer graduation to 500 UPH, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 30-minute and 12-hour registers, aperture for the date. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. T 7750, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, selfcompensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

C

3-9

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

199

3*

A

TUDOR

9420, Chrono Time 135 Ref. Tudor, “Automatic - Chrono Time,” Ref. 9420, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the 1980s. Fine, self-winding, water resistant to 100 meters, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, date and a stainless steel Tudor Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a service invoice copy dated April 11, 2007. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, steel bezel with gray insert and tachometer graduation to 500 UPH, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Two-tone anthracite and red with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 30-minute and 12-hour registers, aperture for the date. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. T 7750, rhodium-plated, fausses cotes decoration, 25 jewels, straightline lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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2

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 10,000 - 12,000 / €: 6,700 - 8,000

200

2

A

TUDOR

201

GMT - MASTER

9430, Chrono Time 136 Ref. Tudor, “Automatic - Chrono Time,” Ref. 9430/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1978, sold May 1, 1979. Fine, self-winding, water resistant to 100 meters, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee document (now void) and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, steel bezel with tachometer graduation to 500 UPH, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor silver and black with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds scale, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 30-minute and 12-hour registers, aperture for the date. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. T 7750, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3-9

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 3,500 - 4,500 / €: 2,300 - 3,000

202

2

A

GMT - MASTER

203

TUDOR

204

TUDOR

94200, Chrono Time 137 Ref. Tudor, “Automatic - Chrono Time,” Ref. 94200, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the 1980s. Fine, self-winding, water resistant to 100 meters, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, date and a stainless steel Tudor Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, black bezel with tachometer graduation to 500 UPH, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Bicolor anthracite and black with luminous baton indexes, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 30-minute and 12-hour registers, aperture for the date. Luminous black baton hands. M. Cal. T 7750, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3

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3 - 01

M

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

205

3*

A

TUDOR

Ref. 94300, Chrono Time Tudor, “Automatic - Chrono Time,” Ref. 94300, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the 1980s. Fine, self-winding, water resistant to 100 meters, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, date and a stainless steel Tudor Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, 1 extra link and a red seal. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, steel bezel with tachometer graduation to 500 UPH, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds scale with 5 minute/second red Arabic markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 30-minute and 12-hour registers, aperture for the date. Luminous white baton hands. M. Cal. T 7750, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straightline lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

138

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

3*

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

206

A

TUDOR

207

TUDOR

Regular pointed crown guard

Square crown guard (present lot)

7928, Square Crown Guard 139 Ref. Tudor Oyster-Prince, "Submariner", 200m/660ft, Rotor Self-winding, Ref. 7928, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1959. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding-crown protected by the "SQUARE Crown Guard". D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. T 390, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3

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3 - 01

M

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

208

3*

AAA

TUDOR

P

roduction of this reference model started around 1958. While the 7928 Submariner was usually produced with a pointed or rounded crown guard (just like its sister Rolex Ref. 5512), it was also made with a square crown guard configuration. These models were produced in a very small batch the year 1959 only and all seem to start with serial numbers 305xxx. 209

TUDOR

210

TUDOR

7928, Submariner 140 Ref. Tudor “Submariner,” 200m/660ft, Rotor Self-winding, Ref. 7928, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1967. Fine center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 200m, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. T 390, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3 - 10

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3 - 01

M

US$: 2,500 - 3,500 / €: 1,700 - 2,300

211

3*

AAA

TUDOR

212

TUDOR

7021, Submariner 141 Ref. Tudor, “Prince Oyster Date Submariner”, 200m/ 660ft, Ref. 7021/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in 1968. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 200 m, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee (now void), anchor, hang tag, 1 extra link and 1 extra set of hands. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bidirectional graduated revolving bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Blue with luminous square, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 2484, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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3 - 10

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3 - 7 - 01

M

US$: 4,000 - 6,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,000

213

3 - 9*

AAA

TUDOR

9401, Marine Nationale 142 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Prince Submariner”, 200m/ 660ft, Ref. 9401/0, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the late 1970s. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 200 m, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch. Accompanied by a decommission paper dated September 8, 1999. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw down case back with French Military markings, bidirectional graduated revolving blue bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Blue with luminous square, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 2776, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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3 - 10

D

3 - 7 - 01

M

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

214

3 - 9*

AAA

TUDOR

215

TUDOR

216

TUDOR

94010, Marine Nationale 143 Ref. Tudor, “Oyster Prince Submariner”, 200m/ 660ft, Ref. 94010, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the 1980s. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 200 m, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch. Accompanied by a decommission paper dated December 20, 2001. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw down case back with French Military markings, bidirectional graduated revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous square, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 2776, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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3

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3 - 01

M

US$: 5,000 - 8,000 / €: 3,400 - 5,400 217

3*

AAA

TUDOR

76100, Submariner 144 Ref Tudor, “Prince Oysterdate Submariner,” 200m/ 660ft, Ref. 76100, case made by Rolex, Geneva. Made in the 1990s. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 200 m, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date and a Tudor Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void) and a service invoice dated October 31, 2007. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bidirectional graduated revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with Cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 2424-2, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 4,000 - 6,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,000

218

2

A

TUDOR

219

Milgauss

T

he Milgauss was introduced in 1954 for use in high magnetic fields. It was primarliy created for people working on scientific experiments or in power stations, who would need a watch that remained accurate in conditions of work where high magnetic fields existed. The watch's distinctive name was derived from the French word 'Mille', meaning thousand, and 'Gauss', which is a measurement of magnetic induction. Magnetic fields affected the balance workings of a watch. A normal watch will become erratic at 60 oersted and cease to fundtion at around 100 oersted. The Milgauss had anit-magnetic alloys in parts of its movement, which was encased by an iron shield, thereby enabling the watch to remain accurate in fields of over 1000 oersted. At the time of its launch the Milgauss was considered a marvel of horological engineering. Not only did the watch function perfectly when subjected to a magnetic field of 1000 oersted (its guaranteed limit), but it could also remain accurate at 5000 oersted. In fact, even after being placed in such powerful magnetic fields, the residual magnetism in the watch's workings was insufficient to affect its accuracy. It would seem that none of the Milgauss models were ever great sellers. The Milgauss had a small professional market, and its other buyers would probably have just liked the look of this large-case watch, and never required its unique anti-magnetic features. The Milgauss was finally withdrawn from the Rolex catalog in 1988, although for a short time after this it was still available as a special order piece. In 2007, Rolex reintroduced the updated and evolved Milgauss and this time its target market is listed as 'medical imaging'.

220

221

MILGAUSS Property of the Original Owner

6541, Stainless Steel Milgauss Black Dial 145 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Milgauss, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 6541. Made in 1958. Very fine and extremely rare, antimagnetic, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with lightning flash seconds hand, honeycomb dial and a stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster expansion bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel, anti-magnetic soft iron protection cap. D. Black soft iron flinqué honeycomb with luminous round indexes and faceted steel triangular indexes. Steel dauphine hands, lightning flash seconds hand. M. Cal. 1080, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3-9

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 70,000 - 100,000 / €: 47,000 - 67,000

222

2

AAA

MILGAUSS

223

MILGAUSS

1019 Milgauss Mark I 146 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Milgauss, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1019. Made in 1964. Very fine and rare, anti-magnetic, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster expansion bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, Guarantee Certificate (now void) and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, inclined bezel, soft iron gilt metal antimagnetic protecting cap forming a Faraday cage. D. Brushed silver over soft iron with luminous steel baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, “Milgauss” in red. Luminous tapered steel baton hands and red-tipped center seconds hand. M. Cal. 1580, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung white metal Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 35,000 - 45,000 / €: 23,000 - 30,000 224

AAA

P

roduction of this reference started in 1966. With its special dial, ring and cover of its movement in soft iron forming a Faraday cage, Rolex improved on its model that brilliantly solved the problems caused by high magnetic fields to the precision of the movement. The ref 1019 Milgauss replaced the ref. 6541. The watch came with an aluminium dial in either natural metal (present lot) or black. On the first version, the hands were made of an anti-magnetic alloy, and had an angled profile. The dial featured metal baton markers that were filled with luminous material.

225

I

n another version of the ref. 1016, the metal baton hands are filled with black paint instead of the luminous material. The two versions of the ref. 1019 were available simultaneously.

226

MILGAUSS

1019 Milgauss Mark II 147 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Milgauss, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 1019. Made in the 1970s. Very fine and rare, anti-magnetic, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), instruction booklet, hang-tag and red chronometer seal. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, inclined bezel, soft iron gilt metal antimagnetic protecting cap forming a Faraday cage. D. Brushed silver over soft iron with luminous steel baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, “Milgauss” in red. Luminous tapered steel baton hands and red-tipped center seconds hand. M. Cal. 1580, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung white metal Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 25,000 - 35,000 / €: 17,000 - 23,000

In another version of the ref. 1016, the the metal baton hands arefilled with black paint instead of the luminous material. The twoversions of the ref. 1019 were available simultaneously. This watch is illustrated in “1908-2008, 100 Years of Rolex”, by Franca and Guido Mondani, Guido Mondani Editore, Genova (Italy), 2008 Edition, p 121. 227

MILGAUSS

1019, Milgauss A Serial 148 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Milgauss, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1019. Made circa 1970. Very fine and rare, anti-magnetic, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by various documentation. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, inclined bezel, soft iron gilt metal antimagnetic protecting cap forming a Faraday cage. D. Silver with luminous steel baton indexes, outer white minute/seconds divisions, “Milgauss” in red. Luminous steel baton hands and center seconds hand. M. Cal. 1580, rhodium plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung white metal Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm. Approx. overall length 175 mm.

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US$: 30,000 - 40,000 / €: 20,000 - 27,000

229

2

AAA

Submariner

O

fficially launched at the Basel fair in 1954, the ‘Submariner’ was the first genuine diving wristwatch. The innovative introduction’s timing was perfect as offshore oil drilling required divers being equipped with proper tools and a fascinated public sat in front of new-fangled televisions, watching Jacques Cousteau steering his ‘Calypso’ into unexplored waters. Many deliberations were given to the novelty’s name and amongst alternatives the Rolex firm considered were ‘Dive-o-graph’, ‘Frogman’, ‘Skin Diver’ and ‘Deep Sea Diver’. The ‘Submariner’s’ increased water-resistance plus functional esthetics made it an immediate success, sparking imitations at the 1955 Basel exhibition and since then, an endless stream of high-quality variants by competitors, like Eterna’s ‘Kon Tiki’ or Blancpain’s ‘Fifty Fathoms’ watches or simply blatant low-quality fakes, laid testimony to the iconic original Rolex design. One of the Rolex directors, René-P. Jeanneret, was an avid scuba diver and his underwater skills combined with horological expertise were a perfect mixture to create such inventive wristwatch. The firm had put their brainchild to a grueling test a year prior to the launch, when Swiss scientist Auguste Piccard ventured into the ocean depths, together with his son Jacques in the ‘Trieste’. On September 30, 1953 their bathyscaphe descended in the blue waters to reach a recordbreaking depth of 10,336 feet or 3,150 meters below sea level and attached outside, the submarine carried a massive Rolex steel watch, baptized the ‘Deep Sea Special’. Upon ascending to the surface after hours, this horological breakthrough functioned flawlessly telling correct time. Logically, Rolex used its technological prowess to introduce a production model for the diver, which commercialized the water-resistant case concept reliant on gaskets, a screwed-down crown and tightly pressed in acrylic crystal to protect optimally the mechanical precision movement. Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh set another diving record on January 23, 1960, when the ‘Trieste’ reached the bottom of the ‘Challenger Deep’ at a depth of 10,916 meters or 35,800 feet in the ‘Fosse des Mariannes’ or ‘Mariana Trench’ (our planet’s deepest location in the Pacific Ocean, close to Guam) and the delighted explorer confirmed the performance of his Rolex ‘Piccard’ watch in a telegram addressed to the manufacturer: "Pleased to inform you your watch as precise at 10,916 m. as at surface!". While professional divers or companies like COMEX instantly recognized the usefulness of the ‘Submariner’ and scuba diving turned into a universal hobby, it took the mainstream public much longer to embrace the model. Cinema action hero and bon vivant James Bond with his impeccable taste, perfectly portrayed by Sean Connery in the 1962 “Dr. No” spy film, influenced a generation of moviegoers and put the wristwatch on the map as a symbol of masculinity, audaciousness and durability and subsequently, 230

his ‘Submariner’ watch was dubbed the ‘James Bond’ by collectors. Since, nothing has changed drastically and over several decades the ‘Submariner’ has been improved cautiously and updated by Rolex, bending solely to technological advances rather than modish fashions. The company continued modifying the ‘Submariner’, expanding it into a range of versions and over time, once innovative features like a rotating and graduated bezel, protective crown guard, magnifying ‘Cyclops’ lens for the date aperture, ‘Mercedes’-style hands, bracelet extension link allowing wearing the watch on top of a wetsuit or ‘Fliplock’ safety clasp set industry standards, which appear almost ubiquitous today, yet were pioneered by Rolex. Case dimensions grew bigger plus stronger and the ‘Submariner’ increased its water-resistance. Great care was applied to the dial style or texture and the firm experimented with different hands, gilt or white print and various luminous materials to make markers perfectly legible under difficult lighting conditions. Officially certified chronometer and non-chronometer versions were offered both at different price points. Variants in 18K gold satisfied more formal or luxurious needs. More than 5 decades since the ‘Submariner’s’ birth, this diving wristwatch designed for a specific or niche application has turned into a bestselling classic and progressively improved, setting standards by which all competition is judged. Whether worn casually in a swimming pool or treated more vigorously by a COMEX diver during perilous missions, where his watch is submitted to extreme temperatures, high pressure and physical shocks - The hermetically protected ‘Submariner’ delivers highly practical underwater legibility plus vital information. Occasionally, scuba diving proves a dangerous sport and commercial deep-sea diving remains a hazardous profession and as a consequence it can be assumed, that during its remarkable history, this popular tool watch has saved countless lives. 231

SUBMARINER Property of the Original Owner

Gilt Underline 149 Turn-O-Graph Rolex, "Turn-O-Graph, Oyster Perpetual”, Ref. 6202. Made in 1954. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with black bezel and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bi-directional revolving graduated black bezel with red arrow showing the zero point. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 620, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 12 mm.

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

232

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

I

n 1953 Rolex introduced the ‘Turn-O-Graph’ model, Ref. 6202. The somewhat unusual name was written in small print under the Rolex logo. Shortly thereafter it was repositioned above the 6. The watch featured a black rotating bezel to measure elapsed time, which Rolex called a “time-recording-rim”. A deluxe version of the watch was also available, with a white or black honeycomb dial. Very few of these deluxe watches are seen today and it is likely that the deluxe version was a special order piece made only in small numbers. The Turn-O-Graph was essentially a simplified version of the ‘Submariner’ (model 6204) launched at the 1954 Basel Fair. Designed to perform most tasks normally done by a chronograph, the Turn-O-Graph was a brilliant idea. On the cover of the first Turn-O-Graph promotional brochure, the watch was presented as the ideal timepiece for the international business traveler. It was promoted as being able to calculate the “timing of a transatlantic telephone call, the rate of a machine, a patient’s pulse, the speed of a train or the development of a film”. This market positioning was superseded by the 1954 launch of the GMT-Master, which, though it was specifically intended for airline personnel, was also purchased by passengers. The Turn-O-Graph, less successful than Rolex had hoped, continued in production until the early 1960s. Its eventual demise was due partly to the popularity of the GMTMaster and the Submariner. The Submariner was an almost identical model, but listed as capable of being used at 200 meters underwater, as opposed to the Turn-O-Graph’s 50 meters. Unlike the Turn-O-Graph, sales for the Submariner soared. This was partly due to its promotional emphasis - while the Turn-O-Graph was promoted for the businessman who needed to time a transatlantic phone call, the Submariner was sold as “the diver’s friend”. The only sports model no longer in production, the Turn-O-Graph remains an important part of Rolex history. Though perhaps currently underrated by current collectors, its limited production and distinctive bezel make it a very attractive watch for both collectors and investors.

233

SUBMARINER

US Japanese Naval Base 150 Turn-O-Graph Rolex, "Turn-O-Graph, Oyster Perpetual”, Ref. 6202. Made in 1953. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with bi-directional revolving black bezel and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original fitted box, hang tag, price tag and cigarette card. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bi-directional revolving graduated black bezel with red arrow showing the zero point. D. Off-white honeycomb with applied faceted baton indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Steel dauphine hands. M. Cal. 620, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 30,000 - 40,000 / €: 20,000 - 27,000

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SUBMARINER

I

t is exceptionally rare to find early Turn-o-Graphs in mint condition. They were often used as everyday watches and usually show heavy wear. This time-capsule example was bought new at the Ship’s Store at the US Naval base in Yokosuka for a price of $ 66.50 (as indicated on its accompanying price tag). Amazingly, the price is also written on the side of the outer box and the watch still retains its caseback sticker. It is without a doubt the finest example of Reference 6202 to appear at auction to date.

235

SUBMARINER

The period brochure makes mention of the "De Luxe Model" that came with a "magnificent white 'honeycomb' dial (also available in black)".

White Honeycomb Dial 151 Turn-O-Graph Rolex, "Turn-O-Graph, Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer," Ref. 6202. Made in 1953. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with bi-directional revolving black bezel. Accompanied by the original chronometer certificate and timing certificate. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bi-directional revolving graduated black bezel with red arrow showing the zero point. D. Off-white honeycomb with applied faceted baton indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Steel dauphine hands. M. Cal. 620, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 40,000 - 60,000 / €: 27,000 - 40,000 236

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

The 'Turn-O-Graph' Ref. 6202 was touted by Rolex as "the watch with a thousand and one uses." The watch was available in the 'De Luxe Model' with a "magnificent white 'honey-comb' dial" and was also available in black. The present watch is a prestine example of the white honey-comb dial De Luxe Model and is accompanied by its original chronometer certificate and original timing certificate. 237

SUBMARINER

6200, Submariner, Explorer Dial 152 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual”, Ref. 6200. Made circa 1953. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with bi-directional revolving black bezel and large 8 mm winding crown. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, bi-directional revolving graduated black bezel without minute/second graduation from zero point to 15. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds track. Steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. A 296, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 80,000 - 120,000 / €: 55,000 - 80,000 238

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER Ref. 6200 t is assumed that the official 1954 launch in Basel proves that Ref. 6204 was the first Submariner model. However, it appears likely that Ref. 6200 was in fact the first Submariner produced. Rolex used chronological numbering for its watch models. Thus, Ref. 6200 was probably produced before Ref. 6204. Further, the A260 movement fitted to the 6204 followed and improved upon the A296 movement fitted to the 6200 (unlike watch model numbers, movement numbers were not always chronological). Finally, the early versions of the 6200 had the same type of dial used in 1953 on the Explorer models (the now highly collectible 3-6-9 dial with an equilateral triangle at 12). It is thought that for commercial reasons Rolex held back the 6200 in favor of the 6204, which had a slimmer case and smaller winder. It appears that Rolex used two different types of font on the 6200, one large and one smaller.

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239

SUBMARINER

6204 Pre-Rating 153 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster, Perpetual", Ref. 6204, “pre-rating”. Made in 1953. Fine and rare center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with black graduated bezel. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), pamphlet, sales brochure and fitted box. C. Three body, polished and brushed, screwed case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving bezel. D. Black with luminous indexes. Luminous skeletonized hands. M. Cal. A260, 9 3/4’’’, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, lever escapement, Superbalance, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3 - 6*

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

T

he Reference 6204 really constitutes the pre-Submariner era. The later models would feature the word “Submariner” on the dial, or in certain very rare cases with the word “Submariner” blacked-out (see lot 154). The present watch is probably a very rare early example not having any inscription or depth rating. 240

SUBMARINER

R

olex introduced the “Submariner” at the 1954 Basel Watch Fair. The first production model, available to the public that same year, was Ref. 6204. Ref. 6204 was the watch that first became to be known as the “Submariner”, although when it was originally displayed at the Basel Fair it was promoted as the new scuba diving watch, without the word “Submariner” on the dial. This was in part to the growing trend of scuba diving and the need to for a waterproof timing device at depths. Ref. 6204 was water-resistant to 600 feet and used the Rolex caliber A260 movement. It differed considerably from Ref. 6200, having a slimmer case, small crown and parallel hands with a dot at the end of the seconds hand. 241

SUBMARINER

(detail of the “Blackout”)

Ref. 6204, “Blackout” 154 Submariner Rolex, “Oyster, Perpetual", Ref. 6204. Made in 1953. Fine and rare center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with graduated black bezel. Accompanied by correspondence exchanged between Rolex and the original owner. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving bezel. D. Black with luminous indexes. Luminous skeletonized hands. M. Cal. A260, 9 3/4’’’, rhodium-plated, 19 jewels, lever escapement, Superbalance, shockabsorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

US$: 35,000 - 45,000 / €: 23,000 - 30,000

Ref. 6204 (“Blackout”) he present watch is featured on p. 261 of “The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches” by Dowling and Hess. “The very first 200 or so 6204 Submariners had the model name obscured by a block of black paint; this was because Rolex did not, at that time, have the rights to the name. These original Submariners were rated as being waterproof to 300 feet, not the 100 meters we are used to seeing.” (see p. 255).

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242

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T

he present watch is accompanied by letters from the original owner confirming that the watch was received directly from Rolex USA with the word “Submariner” blacked out: “In 1954 our Scuba diving club, the Chicago Submariners, was contacted by The Fair Department Store located in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, to put on a 2 day summer Scuba diving demonstration and promotion for the store. This would take place outside the store and in a large portable swimming pool. This was a voluntary offer and no money was to be paid. Since our diving club was just formed in 1954 we felt it would be a good opportunity to promote the sport and our club. Two members volunteered, me and another. We contacted diving equipment manufactures for complimentary samples we would show off and/or wear at the event. This included the Rolex Watch Company New York office. We received sample wet diving suits, flippers, spear guns and the above Rolex watch on loan. After the event was over I purchased the Rolex watch and kept it.” This explains the double stamping seen in the caseback to further reinforce the fact that the watch was Rolex property before being purchased by the owner.

243

SUBMARINER

244

SUBMARINER

6205, So-Called "James Bond" 155 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Ref. 6205. Made in 1952. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, waterresistant, stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch with a Rolex stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous steel "skeleton" hands. M. Cal. 9 3/4''', rhodiumplated, 19 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic superbalance, shock absorber, selfcompensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness: 13 mm.

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US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000

245

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER

246

SUBMARINER

6536 156 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Submariner”, Ref. 6536/6536-1. Made in 1956. Fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, tonneau-shaped, stainless steel wristwatch with bi-directional revolving black bezel, and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three- body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, black graduated revolving bezel. D. Black with luminous triangular, round and baton indexes. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodiumplated, fausses cotes decoration, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted five positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

US$: 20,000 - 25,000 / €: 13,000 - 17,000

This rare and early version of Reference 6536 did not yet feature the depth rating on its dial.

247

AAA

SUBMARINER

6536/1 157 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, "Submariner, 100m / 330ft", Ref. 6536/1. Made in 1958. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times. D. Black with luminous baton, triangular and round indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 20,000 - 25,000 / €: 13,000 - 17,000

248

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

249

SUBMARINER

250

SUBMARINER

6538, Underline 158 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, 200 m/660 ft, Submariner", Ref. 6538. Made in 1957. Very fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and large crown, black graduated bi-directional bezel for the decompression times, concave lugs. D. Brown with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute track. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 15 mm

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3

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3*

US$: 60,000 - 80,000 / €: 40,000 - 55,000

251

SUBMARINER

6538 Gilt Four Lines 159 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, 200 m/660 ft, Submariner, Officially Certified Chronometer", Ref. 6538. Made in 1957. Very fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch. Accompanied by a fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and large crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, concave lugs. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute track. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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3-8

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3 - 10*

US$: 50,000 - 80,000 / €: 34,000 - 55,000

252

AAA

SUBMARINER

253

SUBMARINER

SUBMARINER

A/6538 Military Submariner Red Depth 160 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, 200 m/660 ft, Submariner”, Ref. A/6538. Made in 1957. Very fine and extremely rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch. Accompanied by the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and large 8 mm crown, graduated blue bi-directional revolving bezel for the decompression times, fixed bars, case back engraved: H.S. 10 CD 49131. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute track. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1030, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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3 - 9*

US$: 175,000 - 225,000 / €: 115,000 - 150,000 Continued on next page 255

SUBMARINER

256

SUBMARINER

T

here are more questions than answers about the A/6538. The few examples that have appeared all share the same unusual characteristics. Not one of them has a serial number; all have the previously unknown model number 6540 stamped inside the case back and then carefully crossed out. All bear the manufacturing stamp for the third quarter of 1957; all have most unusual bezels and Explorer-style 3/6/9 dials. These were the first Rolex military Submariners; they were issued only to the elite Special Boat Squadron of the Royal Marines (the inspiration for the US Navy SEALS). The case has rudimentary fixed bars; the caseback has full military markings and is further marked by many years of a nylon G10 strap being in the same position. It seems that in 1961 the British Ministry of Defence ordered that all dials using radium be withdrawn and replaced by dials using tritium. The present watch retains its original dial due to the fact that it was lost on the beach. The story is interesting: a beachcomber with a metal detector found it buried beneath a foot or more of sand on his local beach. Unbelievably, the Oyster case had protected the watch from the action of the tide for over 40 years, keeping the movement dry and clean. The original glass was completely opaque as the sand being washed over it with the tides had acted like fine sandpaper. However, the glass required only the lightest of polishes before it sparkled like new.

257

SUBMARINER

5508, “James Bond” 161 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, 100m = 330ft, Submariner", Ref. 5508. Made in 1962. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with black bezel and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Rolex box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous stainless steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1530, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

U

ntil this point, Submariner dials had what is called "gilt" printing; this changed around 1964. Although still not absolutely satisfied, Rolex felt it was closer to its vision of the perfect diving watch. Two final experimental shoulderless Submariners were introduced: Ref. 5508, replacing the References 6536 and 6536/1. 258

SUBMARINER

The new models were equiped with new 1500 series movements; Cal. 1530 and Cal.1560 were used. The Ref. 5508 was guaranteed waterproof to 100m/330ft and was offered with or without the word "Chronometer" on the dial. Production was approximately 1958 to 1965. Reference 5508 appeared about 1957-58. This is actually Reference 6536, but with the new 5508 reference number. The reference number change was made in order to give all Submariners 55XX reference numbers, starting in the late 1950s. This lasted through 1990, when the last 55XX models were produced. 259

SUBMARINER

260

SUBMARINER

5508 Gilt Four Line 162 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, 100m = 330ft, Submariner Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 5508. Made in 1962. Fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with black bezel and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with deployant clasp. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), chronometer certificate, cigarette card and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated revolving black bezel for the decompression times. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions. Luminous stainless steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1560, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

For a note on Ref. 5508, see previous lot. 261

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER

262

SUBMARINER

5510 "James Bond" 163 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Submariner "200 m=660 ft", Ref. 5510. Produced in the first quarter of 1958. This reference was in production for approximately 1 year only. Extremely fine and very rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown (8 mm), graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times. D. Black with luminous triangular, round and baton indexes. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1530, rhodium-plated, 25 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm

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3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

T

he Ref. 5510 is an interim model with a large 8mm “brevete” crown. Guaranteed waterproof 200m/660ft, it was produced for only a short period of time, and in very small numbers. Ref. 5510 replaced Ref. 6538.

263

SUBMARINER

5512, Gilt Dial 2-Line minute Track 164 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 200 m / 660 ft.”, Ref. 5512. Made circa 1962. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1530, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

264

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

265

SUBMARINER

5512, Gilt Dial 165 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 200 m / 660 ft.”, Ref. 5512/5513. Made in 1966. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1530, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3 - 21*

US$: 20,000 - 25,000 / €: 13,000 - 17,000

266

AA

SUBMARINER

267

SUBMARINER

268

SUBMARINER

5512 Gilt 4 Lines 166 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Submariner, 200 m / 660 ft., Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 5512/5513. Made in 1966, sold on May 1, 1967. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster expansion bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Chronometer Certificate, Guarantee (now void), instruction pamphlet, a service invoice dated August 5, 1975, and a U.S. Custom Certificate of Registration. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to five positions and temperatures, shock absorber, selfcompensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3 - 9*

US$: 12,000 - 15,000 / €: 8,000 - 10,000

269

AA

SUBMARINER

270

SUBMARINER

5512 “Submariner” Custom-Engraved by Robert D. Swartley 167 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Submariner, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 5512/5513. Made in 1966. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant stainless steel diver’s wristwatch. Accompanied by a fitted box, an Oyster booklet and a collection of photos of engravings by Robert D. Swartley. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed down case back and crown, case sides hand-engraved in a floral and leaf pattern, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to five positions and temperatures, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000

R

obert Swartley is recognized by gun collectors around the world as the leading master engraver and is known for his intricate work on antique gun barrels, work so fine that he has to use a binocular microscope. A soft-spoken fellow, Robert is like a surgeon, his hands are so steady, his cuts so precise. Mr. Swartley was commissioned to hand engrave the image on the Jordan wine label, his rendition is so accurate that a chateau clock shows the time of day. Top gun collectors prize the magnificently detailed work of Mr. Swartley - and commission him on an ongoing basis, creating new shotguns that become treasures the moment they are delivered to the owner. 271

SUBMARINER

272

SUBMARINER

5512 Submariner 168 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, "Submariner", Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 5512. Made in 1970. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original warranty (now void), Chronometer Certificate, anchor, instruction booklet with multi-lingual translation pamphlet and the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 5,000 - 8,000 / €: 3,400 - 5,400

273

3 - 7*

AA

SUBMARINER

5513, Gilt Upper Underline 169 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 200 m = 660 ft.”, Ref. 5513. Made in 1963. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1530, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 20,000 - 25,000 / €: 13,000 - 17,000

274

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

275

SUBMARINER

276

SUBMARINER

5513, Gilt Underline 170 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 200 m / 660 ft.”, Ref. 5513. Made in 1963. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 12,000 - 16,000 / €: 8,000 - 11,000

277

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

5513, Meter First 171 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 200 m / 660 ft.”, Ref. 5513. Made in 1967. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 3,200 - 4,200 / €: 2,100 - 2,800

278

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

279

SUBMARINER

5513, “Feet First” 172 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 660 ft/ 200 m.”, Ref. 5513. Sold on January 1982. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), sales receipt and booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 4,000 - 6,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,000 280

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER

281

SUBMARINER

282

SUBMARINER

5513 Spider Dial 173 Ref. Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 660ft = 200 m.”. Made in the early 1980s. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular steel indexes. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, selfcompensating flat balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 3,200 - 4,200 / €: 2,100 - 2,800

283

3*

AA

SUBMARINER

284

SUBMARINER

174 “Kampfschwimmer” Officine Panerai, Firenze 1860, Ref. 3646, first generation. Made in 1940. Fine and extremely rare, large, cushion-shaped, water-resistant, stainless steel military diver's wristwatch with “Kampfschwimmer” dial. C. Signed “Rolex S.A.”, three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, wire lugs. D. Black with luminous Arabic numerals. Luminous blued steel baton hands. M. Cal. 15 3/4''', signed Rolex, rhodiumplated, fausses cotes decoration, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance adjusted to 6 positions, blued steel Breguet balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dim. 47 x 47 mm. Thickness 15 mm

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3*

AAA

US$: 60,000 - 80,000 / €: 40,000 - 55,000

The linking of the two companies, Panerai and Rolex has always been the subject of speculation and fascination amongst watch collectors. Officine Panerai of Florence was known for making precision instruments - watches were just one of their product lines. Panerai first turned to Rolex in the mid-1930’s due to Rolex’s well deserved reputation of making completely waterproof watches. Panerai had suffered from unsatisfactory waterproofing of their watches and the use of Rolex’s waterproof crowns on their watches was a logical move. Of course, the reputation of the Rolex watch movement was widely known and Rolex agreed to supply Panerai with both the crowns and movements. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s Rolex continued to be the main supplier of watch movements and cases to the Officine Panerai Company who would then fit them with their patented dials and crown guards. In 1997, Panerai reissued a replica version of the first Panerai of 1938, a limited edition of 60 pieces with a period Rolex movement, forever linking its history with Rolex. 285

SUBMARINER

286

SUBMARINER

The hour hand was diamond shaped, while the minute hand was much wider than on a conventional Submariner and the seconds had had a unique diamond luminous indicator at the tip. Even the case was different from a standard Submariner. On the military models the spring bars were replaced with solid steel bars welded into the spring bar holes. The case was then polished so the hole was hardly visible. The rear of the case was then engraved with all the military specifications and issued numbers which enabled the quartermaster to identify the watch. At the end of the 1960s, another branch of the British Military, the Royal Marines ordered Submariners for their frogmen. These were even more immediately identifiable than the more prevalent Royal Navy models because they had even more alterations. The bezel was a completely new one, with minute markers all the way around its circumference, rather than just for the first fifteen minutes. These models were satin finished on the sides, to avoid the reflectivity produced by the usual mirror finish. The watches were delivered from Rolex Geneva to the Bexley Kent, headquarters of Rolex UK; they then went from Bexley to the Royal Greenwich Observatory, run by the Admiralty, where they were tested for both timekeeping and waterproofing. Only once they had passed these tests were Rolex actually paid for the watches, they then were returned to Bexley who were responsible for their shipment to the various naval store depots around the UK. Interestingly, the movement was also special, these watches were still non-chronometer, plastic glass ref. 5513, yet they had the hacking seconds feature, something that was only introduced on the chronometer models there years later.

5513, Military 175 Ref. Rolex. "Oyster Perpetual, Submariner, 660 ft=200 m.", Ref. 5513. Made in 1973 and issued in 1975 for the British Military. British military issue number engraved on the case back. Very fine and rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel military diver's wristwatch with fixed bar lugs. Accompanied by a Rolex UK service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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2

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

T

he reference 5513 became the first Rolex for many years to become an official British Military issue watch, when it was issued to the divers of the Royal Navy in 1965. The military wanted certain modifications; in this case the modifications were so major as to almost be a new watch. First they wanted a new dial featuring a large 'T' in a circle under the center post. The high visibility hands were much larger and of a completely different shape. 287

SUBMARINER

5517, “S.B.S. Submariner” he reference 5517 is a special reference reserved solely for the 176 Ref. T Rolex Submariner made for the Special Boat Service of the Rolex “Oyster Perpetual, Submariner, 660 ft=200 m",

Royal Marines. These watches were specially ordered from Rolex by the Royal Navy for use by the commandos of the British Special Boat Service, one of the world's most highly trained Special Forces. These watches all have fixed bar lugs which by stipulation of the British Ministry of Defense should not be less than 2 mm in diameter. The ref. 5517 had a unique bezel with sixty minute marks rather than only the first fifteen. Other stipulations were that the hands should be of sword type as they are more clearly legible under low light conditions, that the dials be marked with the 'Circle T' which signified that the dials used Tritium, and that the case backs be engraved on the interior with the case number to avoid backs being swapped during servicing, thereby rendering the issue mark invalid as the case numbers for all the watches are recorded against the issue number in the Quartermaster's register.

Ref. 5517/5513. Made in 1973 for the British Special Boat Service and issued in 1977. British military issue number engraved on the case back. Very fine and very rare, center-seconds, self-winding, waterresistant, stainless steel, military diver’s wristwatch with gray bezel and fixed bar lugs. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back and crown, graduated revolving gray bezel for the decompression times, "Triplock" winding-crown protected by the "Crown Guard". D. Black with luminous round, triangular and bâton indexes. Luminous "Sword" hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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The ref. 5517 was issued until the early 1980s when the contract with Rolex expired. It is believed that the total number of all British Military Submariners, both 5513 and 5517 models was just over 1,000, delivered in three batches.

3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

288

SUBMARINER

289

SUBMARINER

290

SUBMARINER

(actual lot)

(comparison to lot 179)

1680, Meter First Red Submariner 177 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 200m/660ft., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1680. Made in 1969. Fine and rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with red "Submariner", date, and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with "Submariner" in red letters, luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 9,000 - 12,000 / €: 6,000 - 9,000

291

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER

1680 Tropical Red Submariner 178 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 660 ft./200 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 1680. Made in 1973, sold on November 14, 1974. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, Warranty Certificate (now void) and an Oyster booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated black bi-directional revolving bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Brown with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/ seconds divisions, aperture for the date, “Submariner” in red letters. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1575, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000

292

2

AA

SUBMARINER

293

SUBMARINER

294

SUBMARINER

Submariner 179 Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 660 ft. / 200 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 1680. Made in 1970. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with red "Submariner" dial, date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Chronometer Certificate, 2 instruction booklets, a multi-lingual translation booklet, and a red seal. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with "Submariner" in red letters, luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

295

2

AA

SUBMARINER

"Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 660 ft./200 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially 180 Rolex, Certified", Ref. 1680. Made in the late 1970s. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, Warranty Certificate (now void) and an Oyster booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1575, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000

296

2

AA

SUBMARINER

297

SUBMARINER

1680, Navy Blue Dial 181 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1680. Made circa 1978. Very fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold diver's wristwatch with date and a Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, blue graduated bi-directional revolving bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Navy blue with luminous gold round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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2

AAA

US$: 22,000 - 26,000 / €: 15,000 - 17,000

Introduced first on the gold GMT 6542 in 1959, this model was fitted with a special type of index. Instead of just being a dot of radium for the luminescence, the designers came up with with a gold thick base that would surround the radium. Carried over to the Submariners in the first models of gold 1680's, they became known to collectors as "nipple dials". 298

SUBMARINER

299

SUBMARINER

Ref. 1680, Black Dial 182 Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1680. Made in 1978. Very fine and rare, self-winding, water-resistant, center-seconds, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with an 18K yellow gold Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, black graduated bi-directional revolving bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14.7 mm.

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US$: 12,000 - 16,000 / €: 8,000 - 11,000

300

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER

301

SUBMARINER

1680, Color Change (Blue) Dial 183 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 1680. Made circa 1978. Very fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold diver's wristwatch with date and a Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, black graduated bi-directional revolving bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Purple with luminous gold round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 30,000 - 40,000 / €: 20,000 - 27,000

302

3*

AAA

SUBMARINER

303

SUBMARINER

16800 Submariner 184 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16800. Made circa 1987. Fine and rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), booklet, anchor and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 7,000 - 12,000 / €: 4,700 - 8,000

In the early 1980s the ref. 1680 was fitted with a synthetic sapphire crystal and the caliber 3035 movement and renumbered reference 16800. The early version of the ref. 16800 is considered transitional since the model still carried the matt dial but was now rated to 300 meters (1000 feet) and equipped with the new movement. The present watch is the transitional version of the ref. 16800. 304

SUBMARINER

305

SUBMARINER

16800, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 185 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16800, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made circa 1982. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3 - 10

D

3 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

Tiffany and Cartier were the last retailer permitted to co-brand Rolex watches and both ceased to be Rolex agents in the late 1980s. The ref. 16800 was one of the last Rolex models to be co-branded by a retailer. 306

SUBMARINER

307

SUBMARINER

16800, Submariner 186 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16800. Made circa 1987. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3 - 10

D

3 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 3,000 - 5,000 / €: 2,000 - 3,400

In 1984, the second version of the ref. 16800 was introduced with a new glossy dial which had the luminous markings enclosed by white gold circles. 308

SUBMARINER

309

SUBMARINER

310

SUBMARINER

16803, Steel and Gold Submariner 187 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 16803. Made circa 1984. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold and stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and an 18K yellow gold and stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Warranty Certificate (now void), red seal, hang tag and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving blue bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Blue with applied luminous round, triangular and baton gold indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

3 - 9 - 01

M

3*

AA

US$: 5,000 - 7,000 / €: 3,400 - 4,700

A two-tone steel and gold version of the ref. 16800 was introduced in the early 1980s and numbered as reference 16803. The ref. 16803 was the first 'Submariner' two-tone made with a sapphire crystal. Collectors in Japan have nick-named the two-tone watch a 'Combi'. 311

SUBMARINER

Ref. 16808, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 188 Gold Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 16808/16800, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made in the early 1980s. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date and an 18K yellow gold Oyster Fliplock bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated uni-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton gold indexes, outer minute/seconds track, aperture for the date. Luminous gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance-spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

3 - 01

M

3*

AAA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

An all gold version of the ref. 16800 was produced in the early 1980s and numbered as reference 16808. The present watch is retailed by Tiffany & Co. and is one of the last Rolex models to be co-branded by a retailer. 312

SUBMARINER

313

SUBMARINER

314

SUBMARINER

168000, Submariner 189 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 168000. Made in 1987, sold on June 25, 1987. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Warranty Certificate (now void) and a hang tag. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated uni-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness: 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

2

AA

US$: 4,000 - 6,000 / €: 2,700 - 4,000

Toward the end of the production run of the ref. 16800, for only about nine months, Rolex delivered a reference 168000 (note the extra zero) in which the quality of the stainless steel was upgraded from grade 316 to grade 904. The ref. 168000 used the same case as the later ref. 16610, but with the movement and dial of the earlier ref. 16800. 315

SUBMARINER

316

SUBMARINER

16610, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 190 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner 1000ft=300m. Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 16610. Made in 1992, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original warranty (now void), anchor, 2 instruction booklets and a fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous steel round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3-9

D

2 - 01

M

3*

AAA

US$: 6,000 - 9,000 / €: 4,000 - 6,000

In 1989, the Submariner received another update and evolved into the reference 16610. The new caliber 3135 movement was installed, which featured a 28,800 BPH. The present ref. 16610 was retailed by Tiffany & Co. and is one of the last examples of a 'Submariner' co-branded by a retailer. 317

SUBMARINER

318

SUBMARINER

16613, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 191 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner,

1000ft/330m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified," Ref. 16613, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made in 1989, sold December 19, 1990. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel and 18K yellow gold wristwatch with a stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Tiffany box, Warranty document (now void), 2 instruction booklets and various Tiffany sales and service documents. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, graduated unidirectional revolving blue bezel for the decompression times, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Blue with applied gold luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

2

AA

US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

In the mid 1980s, a two-tone steel and gold version of the ref. 16810 was introduced and numbered as reference 16613. 319

SUBMARINER

320

SUBMARINER

16618, Yellow Gold Submariner, Lapis Dial 192 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner,

1000ft/300m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 16618. Sold in June 1997. Very fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with date, blue bezel and an 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original wooden box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), hang tag, wallet with 2 instruction booklets, a recent service invoice and an extra link. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving blue bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Blue lapis with luminous round, triangular and baton gold indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous yellow gold skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

2

D

3 - 7 - 01

M

1

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

An all gold version of the ref. 16610 was produced and numbered as reference 16618. 321

AA

SUBMARINER

322

SUBMARINER

Canal 193 Panama Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, Panama Canal" Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, No. 31/75, Ref. 16610. Made in a limited edition of 75 pieces in 1999. Fine and extremely rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), booklets, anchor and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, back engraved: Capt. Juan Ramon Felin, graduated uni-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date, special "Panama Canal" logo. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodiumplated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness: 13 mm.

C

3 - 10

D

1 - 01

M

2*

AAA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

This very rare collector watch has been produced by Rolex Geneva to commemorate the transfer of the Panama Canal from US to the Republic of Panama on December 31, 1999. Only 75 units have been manufactured and sold worldwide. This watch is illustrated in “1908-2008, 100 Years of Rolex”, by Franca and Guido Mondani, Guido Mondani Editore, Genova (Italy), 2008 Edition, p 199. 323

SUBMARINER

324

SUBMARINER

16610 V, Green Bezel 194 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m., Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 16610 V. Made in 2007. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with green bezel, with date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, certificate and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving green bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the Crown Guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied large luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

1

D

1 - 01

M

1

AA

US$: 6,000 - 8,000 / €: 4,000 - 5,400

In 2003, Rolex introduced the reference 16610LV to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. The ref. 16610LV was distinquished with a green bezel and a 'maxi dial' which has larger hour markers. 325

Comex

odern offshore drilling began in 1947 in the Gulf of Mexico to accommodate an American surge in oil consumption M and operations utilized little more than simple extensions of systems already tested on land. As the industry evolved rapidly in the 1950s, worldwide demand for crude oil and products refined from it exploded and logically, in the ensuing decades offshore drilling operations advanced into areas such as the North Sea, demanding innovative methods. While commercial divers worked initially at depths between 5 and 30 meters and used compressed air like in the 19th Century, now the oil industry’s increased demands asked for improved techniques to dive deeper than a maximum of 60 meters. Consequently, a professional diver’s routine included dealing with life-threatening risk and between 1965 and 1990, 56 confirmed diving fatalities occurred in the North Sea alone. Industry pioneer Henri Germain Delauze founded the COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) firm in 1961 at a time, when industrial deep-sea diving didn’t yet exist. A southern France native born in 1929, Delauze became an engineer and started diving during his military service, before working for several companies focused on diving equipment and oceanic exploration. Quickly, Marseilles-based COMEX realized a significant need to develop novel technologies and thus, became a global leader in deep-sea diving operations for the offshore oil and gas commerce. COMEX divers descended into the oceans in manned or unmanned underwater missions, made significant advances in saturation diving during the 1960s and 1970s and worked at depths in excess of 500 meters, thanks to the use of helium and oxygen in their breathing mixtures, which replaced normal air. Delauze was a participant in the first dives utilizing helium at depths of 335 meters and 360 meters, investigating and describing the ‘high pressure nervous syndrome’, which until then put many lives at risk during hazardous diving missions. At first, COMEX relied upon American know-how in gas mixtures and decompression, but the firm’s divers gained own expertise through a series of research programs. By the 1970s, COMEX devised systems, gas mixtures and decompression tables that placed any depth within their divers’ reach, at which oil companies operated at the time. In 1974, COMEX was involved worldwide in roughly 30 offshore contracts, spanning from Brazil to the North Sea, in water depths of up to 180 meters with circa 15 operational diving contracts in the North Sea alone. After the 1970s “oil crisis“, thousands of offshore platforms were installed internationally and COMEX was almost the sole company capable of repairing or working on the rigs. Since the beginnings and under Delauze’s visionary leadership, COMEX continued its development, diversified activities and today manages the operations of the Marseilles-based ‘Hyperbaric Experimental Center’ (C.E.H), established in 1964, which features exceptional testing equipment, where engineers and scientists can study the effects of pressure on a diver’s physique. Over time, teams directed by Henri Delauze and Dr. Xavier Fructus have conducted more than 5300 experiments including over 2700 human dives, tested equipment or researched scientific topics with more than 400 divers participating and the ‘Hydra 10’ mission set a still standing world record of 701 meters in depth. Nowadays, still chaired by Henri G. Delauze as a majority shareholder, the COMEX holding defines the main orientations plus long- and midterm strategy for the entire COMEX Group with over 2000 employees, including 800 highly specialized divers operating internationally.

326

COMEX

(2)

circa 1980. 195 Comex, A fine and rare heavy chrome metal diving flashlight accompanied by a regulator. Both signed Comex Pro.

In very good overall condition, flashlight in working condition, regulator in need of service.

A US$: 700 - 1,200 / €: 450 - 800

T

he present torch model (Comex Pro bell torch) is extremely rare since it had proven to be inefficient with the light it produced and COMEX quickly replaced it with the improved Divex model.

(detail of the back of the flashlight) 327

COMEX

circa 1970. 196 Comex, Comex “Pro MK3 diving mask”. This is the second version of the injection molded mask with an improved face seal and two weights above the second stage to improve the neutrality and a manifold with a secondary supply.


AA

US$: 1,500 - 2,500 / €: 1,000 - 1,700

328

COMEX

circa 1980. 197 Comex, A rare complete diving wet-suit with integrated hood accompanied by a pair of matching soft sole boots. Signed Comex Pro Numbered 4.


A

US$: 800 - 1,300 / €: 550 - 850

329

COMEX

5513, Comex Submariner 198 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, "Submariner, 660 ft./200 m”, Ref. 5513. Made for Comex in 1970. Very fine, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with first generation helium escape valve and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by recent Rolex UK service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back with COMEX inscription and case number stamped inside, screwdown crown with Crown Guard, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, helium escape valve. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, Comex logo at six. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

C

2

D

2 - 01

M

3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000 330

COMEX

D

uring the late 1960s, in collaboration with COMEX, Rolex developed its ‘Submariner’ model to meet the most stringent technical and professional demands. COMEX divers not only needed solutions for water resistance at extreme depth, they also faced the danger of explosive decompression caused by helium penetrating the interior of the watch while they breathed the mixture of oxygen and helium within their hyperbaric chamber. To maintain a pressure identical to that underwater, the mixture in the hyperbaric chambers remained the same during the different phases of work and rest periods. This system was designed to eliminate the need to depressurize the chamber after each phase of work. Before returning to free air, and depending on the depth attained, a period of depressurization was necessary to equalize the internal and external tension of the human organism. Though the process of depressurization is slow, the gas that accumulated inside the watch, having no means to escape fast enough, exploded the crystal thereby risking injury to those inside the chamber.

Rolex collaborated with COMEX to develop a solution by installing a one-way pressure escape valve on the side of the watch case, beside the nine o'clock position. The one-way valve began to function when the difference between the exterior and interior of the watch exceeded 2.5 kg. per sq. cm. The Helium Gas Escape Valve (HEV) was featured and tested on the Single red and Double Red Patent Pending Sea-Dwellers circa 1967-1969. Once the testing was successfully completed and Patent of the HEV approved, COMEX placed a special order with Rolex for the supply of a number of dive watches featuring the HEV and case with either ref. 5513 or 5514. This would be delivered to COMEX only and not provided for general sale. The development and delivery of this unique reference evolved from a modified ref. 5513 to the final ref. 5514 with big case back numbers circa 1975. The first COMEX deliveries were the Submariner ref. 5513, which can be found in a number of iterations: 1- The earliest ref. 5513 COMEX watches that have surfaced circa 1969/70 have non-HEV cases, non-logo dials and case backs which are engraved ‘Crown-Rolex-Comex’. The serial number engraved inside the case back matches the serial number between the lugs at 6 o’clock. 2- The ref. 5513 COMEX watches with HEV (an improved version introduced post Patent approval) that followed circa 1972 were mostly produced with a small or medium sized issue number engraved on the case back and a plain matt non-logo dial. Approximately only one third of the original issued ref. 5513 COMEX watches had a matt logo dial and very few have survived. Thus making the ref. 5513 with the original COMEX logo dial configuration, one of the rarest COMEX watches to exist (estimates have been made in the region of 50-60 watches). The present watch has recently been serviced by Rolex and comes with a letter from Rolex confirming its original delivery to COMEX. 331

COMEX

5514, Submariner, Helium Escape Valve 199 Ref Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 660ft=200m”, Ref. 5514/5513. Made in 1973. Fine and very rare, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with helium escape valve. Accompanied by a recent Rolex Geneva service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back, screw-down crown with Crown Guard, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, helium escape valve. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, selfcompensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Dim. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

3 - 01

M

2

US$: 80,000 - 120,000 / €: 55,000 - 80,000

T

he initial batch of ref. 5514 with HEV can be found with small & medium case back numbers (and generally non COMEX logo dials) and were delivered alongside the final batch of the ref. 5513 COMEX watches in 1972. Most deliveries from 1974 to 1977 of the COMEX ‘Submariner’ with HEV only had the unique model ref. 5514 and not the ref. 5513. The model ref. 5514 was never sold to the public. The ref. 5514 from these batches featured two different case back styles with four variations of small, medium and large issue numbers. The original dials were still the matt variety, but the majority now featured the COMEX logo. In total the ref. 5514 was actually produced in higher numbers (approximately 600 to 700) than many of the other COMEX models, however, a far lower number have survived in their original configuration. The ref. 5514 remains a key watch to collectors purely because of the unique COMEX only reference number. 332

COMEX

333

COMEX

5514 Submariner, Helium Escape Valve 200 Ref Rolex, “Submariner, Oyster Perpetual, 660ft=200m”, Ref. 5514/5513. Made in 1972. Fine and very rare, water-resistant, center seconds, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with helium escape valve. Accompanied by a Rolex service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screw-down case back, screw-down crown with Crown Guard, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, helium escape valve. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1520, rhodium-plated, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Dim. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 34 - 01

M

2

US$: 50,000 - 80,000 / €: 34,000 - 55,000

T

he ref. 5514 was a COMEX specific watch, which was never available to the general public. Due to the extreme conditions in which the COMEX divers operated, every six months the watches were sent back to Rolex for an overhaul. These watches were not just meticulously overhauled but in many cases upgraded each time the watch went back to Rolex. It has been reported by ex-COMEX divers that some of the earlier ref. 5514 did not come with the COMEX logo on the dial [see lot 199] and that when these watches were sent to Rolex for service, on request they were replaced by Rolex with the later gloss tritium or luminova dials, some with COMEX logo. This seems to be the case with the present watch. 334

COMEX

Oyster Perpetual Date, "Comex, Sea-Dweller, 2000ft./610 m", Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, 201 Rolex, Ref. 1665. Made in 1979. Fine and very rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel gentleman's wrist-watch with date and a stainless steel "Fliplock" Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty, booklets, hang tags, anchor and original fitted box. It is further accompanied by a Comex emergency oxygen supply mask. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, dedicated screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9,graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, "Triplock" winding-crown protectedby the "crownguard.” D. Black with tritium coated round, triangular and bâton indexes, aperture for the date.Tritium coated steel "skeleton" hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium plated,"oeil-de-perdrix" decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temper-aturesand five positions, shock-absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance-spring, Microstella regulating screws, hacking feature. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness: 17 mm.

C

3-9

D

2 - 01

M

3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

T

he ref. 1665 sea dwellers were delivered to COMEX from 1977 through 1982. Approximately 300 watches of model reference 1665 with Helium Gas Escape Valve were delivered to COMEX, in 3 separate batches during this period. The first batch of 100 watches was delivered around 1977. These featured 600m COMEX logo dials (Often referred to by Collectors as the ‘PISANI’ dial) and case backs with the same style engraving as the Double Red Sea Dweller. The second and third batches of 100 watches per batch, were delivered to COMEX in 1980 and 1982 respectively. The majority of these watches still had the 600m COMEX logo dial (some of the later third batch with case backs 325x onwards may have had 610m dials), but the style of the case back engravings had changed from the first batch. There are several differences between the original COMEX ref. 1665 dials and that of the retail version, on the COMEX dial: 1- the COMEX logo is present above the depth rating; 2- the depth rating is 2000ft-600m; 3- the word ‘DATE’ is missing next to the ‘OYSTER PERPERTUAL’; 4- the hour markers are closer to the minute track line; 5- The bottom of the Rolex coronet is flat with the ‘L’ directly under it; and 6- the ‘C’ from the word ‘CHRONOMETER’ lines up with the ‘C’ from the word ‘CERTIFIED’. The present watch retained its original COMEX dial. The 1665 are regarded as the true COMEX watches, as they do not feature the Rolex model name on the dial. 336

COMEX

T

he full case number in the papers has been blurred to protect the buyer’s privacy. 337

COMEX

I

n 1977-78 COMEX received the ‘Submariner’ ref. 1680 from Rolex, during which time its divers were already equipped with the ref. 5514 (with HEV) and had just started to receive the Sea Dweller ref. 1665 (with HEV). Since the ref. 1680 had no Helium Escapement Valve and was only rated to 200 meters (660 feet), COMEX used the batch for non-saturation dives and the majority was given to COMEX employees, customers and suppliers. The COMEX ref. 1680 is perhaps the rarest of all COMEX sport watches, since COMEX only received approximately 60 examples and the great majority of those were later serviced with a the COMEX dial being replaced with a regular Rolex dial, as many owners did not like the COMEX logo advertisement on the dial (a concept that would seem foreign to today's Rolex collectors).

338

COMEX

The full Comex caseback number has been blurred to protect the buyer’s privacy

Ref. 1680 202 Comex Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Submariner, 660 ft. / 200 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1680. Sold to Comex in 1978. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant to 200 m, stainless steel wristwatch with "Comex" dial, date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Twinlock winding crown protected by the Crown Guard, crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with "Submariner" in red letters, luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

US$: 120,000 - 160,000 / €: 80,000 - 110,000

339

COMEX

16660, Comex 203 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Comex, Sea Dweller 4000ft=1220m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 16660. Made circa 1980. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch with second generation gasescape valve, date and stainless steel “Oysterlock” bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), booklets, anchor and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, graduated unidirectional revolving bezel for the decompression times, "Triplock" winding- crown protected by the Crown Guard, gas escape valve at 9, sapphire crystal. D. Black with luminous steel round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date, Comex logo at six. Luminous steel "skeleton" hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, free-sprung monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Height 15 mm.

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US$: 70,000 - 100,000 / €: 47,000 - 67,000

T

he reference 16660 was a transitional watch for Rolex and was produced for COMEX from 1982 through 1984. The new case, synthetic sapphire crystal, larger helium valve meant that the new watch could be taken to depths up to an incredible 1220 meters (4000 feet). There was also a new movement inside the case, the caliber 3035. The new movement replaced the 1570 in the previous 1665 Sea-Dweller models. The new watch also was designed to have a new dial made for Comex only with a matt finish, however approximately only half of the 1st batch of 100 watches survived with matt logo dials, the remaining watches have the gloss tritium “small” logo dial or the later replacement gloss tritium/lminova “big” logo dials, more commonly found on the 16600. The 2nd batch of 16660 went out from the factory fitted with the gloss tritium “small logo” dials. 340

COMEX

341

COMEX


Ref. 16800 “10 Year Service Presentation” 204 Comex Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Comex Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." , Ref. 16800. Made in 1984. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Comex 10 Years of Service card. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back with Comex number and commemoration inscription and crown, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, aperture for the date, Comex logo. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed, case with Comex number. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness: 13 mm.

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US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

342

COMEX

A

pproximately 200 watches of model reference 16800 were delivered to COMEX between 1982 and 1989. The ref. 16800 featured the caliber 3035 with date mechanism and a scratch-proof sapphire crystal. The first batch of 100 Ref. 16800 were delivered in 1982 with a matt tritium COMEX logo dial. These are often referred to as the ‘transitional’ models by collectors, due to mix of the old style matt dials and new style sapphire crystals. The other 50 watches in the first batch were delivered with a gloss tritium dial with a ‘small’ COMEX logo. The second batch of 100 ref. 16800 watches that were delivered to COMEX also featured a gloss tritium dial with a ‘small’ a COMEX logo. Both the matt logo dials and gloss tritium ‘small’ logo dials were of very poor quality, the condition often deteriorated causing problems with debris becoming loose on the dial and in the movement. Many of the watches from these batches received a later ref. 16610 Tritium COMEX ‘big’ logo replacement dial during service and therefore the survival rate of the ref. 16800 in its original configuration is very low.

It was customary for COMEX divers to receive a commemorative watch from the company on completion of the 10th and 25th year of service. These watches have in the past included gold Longines and Baume / Mercier dress watches. In 1984 a group of divers (4 are known) primarily from COMEX Houlder, Aberdeen completed their 10 year service and received a Rolex ref. 16800. The watches all have case backs within the 61xx case back range and are engraved with the employees name. The dials on these presentations watches were unique in that they feature the COMEX logo and do not have the words 'Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ which can be found on all other ref. 16800 COMEX watches within the 61xx range. This watch was presented to William Bain, a COMEX diver who worked for COMEX Houlder Division and retains its original presentation dial. The COMEX Houlder Diving company was the UK branch of COMEX. 343

COMEX


168000, COMEX Submariner 205 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 168000/ 16800, COMEX 6261. Made circa 1987. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box and Certificate (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, case back engraved: COMEX 6261, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, imprint: Comex, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

US$: 70,000 - 100,000 / €: 47,000 - 67,000

B

etween 1987 and 1988 Rolex delivered a small batch of approximately 100 watches with the model reference 168000 (note the extra 0). The difference in the reference number indicates the use of higher quality steel (from grade 316 to grade 904L) in the later watches. It used the same case as the later ref. 16610 with the movement and dial from the ref, 16800. As with the 16800, the gloss tritium ‘small’ COMEX logo dials on the 168000 watches were of very poor quality and the dial often deteriorated causing problems with debris becoming loose on the dial and in the movement.

344

COMEX

345

COMEX

346

COMEX

168000, COMEX Submariner 206 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner, 1000 ft./ 300 m." Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 168000/ 16800, COMEX 6261. Made circa 1987. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, case back engraved: COMEX 6261, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, triangular and baton steel indexes, imprint: Comex, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 90,000 - 120,000 / €: 60,000 - 80,000

B

etween 1987 and 1988 Rolex delivered a small batch of approximately 100 watches with the model reference 168000 (note the extra 0). The difference in the reference number indicates the use of higher quality steel (from grade 316 to grade 904L) in the later watches. It used the same case as the later ref. 16610 with the movement and dial from the ref, 16800. Both the matt COMEX logo dials and the gloss tritium ‘small’ COMEX logo dials were of very poor quality and the dial often deteriorated causing problems with debris becoming loose on the dial and in the movement.

347

COMEX

A

pproximately 250 watches of the ref. 16610 COMEX ‘Submariner’ were delivered to COMEX between 1990 - 1997. These watches had cases upgraded from grade 316 steel to grade 904L (similar to the Ref. 168000), but featured the new caliber 3135. The ref. 16610 featured a gloss tritium with a big’ COMEX logo dial. It is interesting to note that a small batch of 16610 COMEX watches with gloss Luminova dials and COMEX logo were delivered to COMEX in 2004 (F Serial). 348

COMEX


Comex, Ref 16610 207 Submariner Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Submariner Comex,” Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, Ref. 16610. Produced in 1996, sold to Comex in 1997. Fine and very rare, center-seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with a stainless steel Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original warranty (now void) and hang tag. C. Three-body, polished and brushed,screwed-down case back and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, graduated uni-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, engraved case back, sapphire crystal with cyclops lens. D. Black with applied luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date, special "Panama Canal" logo. Luminous skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compen-sating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness: 13 mm.

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US$: 90,000 - 120,000 / €: 60,000 - 80,000 349

COMEX

350

COMEX


16600 Comex Sea-Dweller 208 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, COMEX, Sea Dweller 4000ft=1220m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified, Ref. 16600. Made in the late 1990s. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 4000 ft, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with date, helium escape valve and a stainless steel Fliplock Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), anchor, 2 instruction booklets, bracelet tool, diver’s timetable and Rolex documentation. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown-guard, helium escape valve at 9, sapphire crystal, case back engraved with Comex number. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3135, rhodium-plated, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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US$: 40,000 - 70,000 / €: 27,000 - 47,000

A

pproximately 200 watches of the reference 16600 COMEX ‘Sea dweller’ with HEV were delivered to COMEX in two batches between in 1992 (Serial N) and 1997 (Serial U). The first 100 were delivered in 1992 with the word ‘Rolex’ engraved straight across the case back and with a COMEX case back serial number in the 32XX range. The second 100 were delivered in 1997 with the ‘Rolex’ engraved in a curved manner across the case back and the COMEX case back serial number in the 33XX range. The ref. 16600 featured a gloss tritium dial with a big COMEX logo. It is interesting to note that a small batch of 16600 COMEX watches with gloss Luminova dials and COMEX logo were delivered to COMEX in 2004 (F Serial). The present watch is from the second batch delivered to COMEX circa 1997. The ref. 16600 was the last Rolex supplied to COMEX. The COMEX issued Rolex dive watches have become one of the most sought after Rolex sports watches, due to their rarity and the important role that they have played in the development of dive watches. 351

Sea-Dweller

N

o other watch has captivated the Rolex collector as the Sea Dweller. Born as a tool watch in 1967, it was everything that Rolex knew about dive watches incorporated into one watch. COMEX, a French diving company, already had been successfully using the Helium Escape Valves (HEV) in their 5513 and later 5514 Submariners. So it was fitting that a distinctive Rolex finally went to production in late 1967, as a specialized diving watch, initially based on a thin submariner case and before the HEV patent had been accepted, leading to the very desirable patent-pending Sea Dweller which was able to withstand depths of over 2000 feet or 610 meters. Regular production soon followed and the watch was produced with several different variations for the next forty years as model 1665, 16660 and 16600. A small batch of these Sea Dweller were made especially to the specifications of the company that originally helped with its development and testing, COMEX. The double red Sea Dweller are considered a key watch amongst collectors and some of the variations of the white Sea Dweller have also become quite sought after. The romance of these watches is unmistakable. Their high dome, large cases, Helium Escape Valve, distinctive engravings, indestructible case and the lure of a limited production "tool" watch has uniquely attracted the attention of watch lovers.

352

Lot 206

Lot 207

Lot 211

Lot 213

353

SEA-DWELLER

No Valve Double Red 209 Prototype Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner" without helium escape valve, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 1665. Made in 1967. Fine and very rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with red Sea-Dweller logo, date and a Rolex stainless steel Fliplock Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for decompression times, Triplock winding-crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and bâton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and five positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 16 mm.

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US$: 110,000 - 130,000 / €: 75,000 - 87,000

This prototype version was the forerunner of the Sea Dweller 2000. These prototype Rolex Sea-Dwellers were produced in a small batch in 1967. They were produced without a helium escape valve and in a thinner case and without engravings on the back. They were presented to the worlds leading deep sea divers for testing and reporting on the watches' dependability in deep sea dives. It is believed that only 30 Rolex Sea Dweller cases were produced without the gas escape valve. Most of these prototypes did not survive decompressions and the gas escape valve which were already being fitted to early Submariners ref. 5513 and ref. 5514 were required for the Sea-Dweller. The present watch is one of the first Rolex Sea-Dwellers to have been produced by Rolex Geneva and is extremely rare. This watch is illustrated in "1908-2008, 100 Years of Rolex", by Franca And Guido Mondani, 2008 Edition, page 129. 354

SEA-DWELLER

355

SEA-DWELLER

Patent Pending Mark I 210 Double-Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft. / 610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 1665. Made in 1967. Fine and extremely rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with double red SeaDweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original warranty (now void), chornometer certificate, instruction booklet and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3*

US$: 150,000 - 200,000 / €: 100,000 - 135,000

The first version of the Double Red Sea Dweller (DRSD) was produced in 1967. It is believed that somewhere between 50 to 100 early versions were sent to dealers for promotional use. The helium valve had been developed and the patent had been applied, but Rolex had not yet received final approval. Therefore, these watches were engraved on the case back with word 'Patent Pending.' There are some notable differences between the first version of the ref. 1665 and the later production: (i) the case was thinner; (ii) the case back was engraved with 'Patent Pending' in parenthesis; and (iii) the diver's extension link was stamped 'Pat. Pend'. The double red writing was applied first in white on the black dial and then with red painted over the white paint, so as to highlight the red writing. Both of the lines of Double Red writing are similar in font and size. They read: 'SEA-DWELLER' and under that 'SUBMARINER 2000'. On the few examples that still exist, the red writing has faded to a pink, white or a yellow color. This was due to reaction of the red paint applied over the white paint, hence the dial is often referred to as the 'Double Pink'. The coronet is quite sharp with the five tips of the crown and oval at the base clearly defined. Only a very limited numbers of these dials were produced, and they had 'patent pending' engraved on the case back and stamped on the diver's extension link of the bracelet. 356

SEA-DWELLER

357

SEA-DWELLER

358

SEA-DWELLER

Sea-Dweller Submariner Mark II 211 Double-Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1665. Made in 1967. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" in red letters. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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AAA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

The second version of the ref. 1665 was produced from 1967 to 1970. The double red writing is usually printed directly on the dial and is generally a very vibrant deep red color. The first red line reads 'SEA DWELLER' and underneath it, printed in a smaller font size, 'SUBMARINER 2000'. The coronet spikes on the second version are generally distorted or smudged and the oval at the base of the cornet is extremely small and nearly blending with the coronet base. 359

SEA-DWELLER

Sea-Dweller Submariner Mark III 212 Double-Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 1665. Made in 1972. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with double red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void), red seal, hang tag, instruction booklet, and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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AAA

US$: 60,000 - 90,000 / €: 40,000 - 60,000

The third version of the ref. 1665 was produced from 1970 to 1973. The double red writing is usually printed directly on the dial and is generally darker than the second version and printed with a more muted red color. The first red line reads 'SEA DWELLER' and underneath it, printed in a smaller font size, 'SUBMARINER 2000'. The coronet in the third version is distinguished with the tips of the crown clearly defined and the oval at the base of the coronet aptly spaced. Similar to the application of the red paint in the double red printing, the application of the white paint is thinner than in the previous versions. 360

SEA-DWELLER

361

SEA-DWELLER

Sea-Dweller Submariner Mark IV" 213 Double-Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified," Ref. 1665. Made in 1975, sold on November 29, 1976. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), instruction booklet and a service invoice dated 9/10/2006. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, selfcompensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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AAA

US$: 35,000 - 45,000 / €: 23,000 - 30,000

The fourth version of the ref. 1665 was produced from 1974 to 1977. The double red writing is usually printed directly on the dial and is generally not as bright as the second version but more vibrant than the third version. The first red line reads 'SEA DWELLER' and underneath it, printed in a smaller font size, 'SUBMARINER 2000'. The coronet in the fourth version is distinguished from the prior versions in that the tips of the crown are thin and clearly separated and the oval at the base of the coronet is circular in appearance. The application of the white paint is thin and appears bubbly in its application. There is a fifth version of the ref. 1665 dial that was provided by Rolex as a service replacement dial. The service replacement dial is different than the four original dials in that Luminova was used instead of Tritium. 362

SEA-DWELLER

363

SEA-DWELLER

Tiffany Dial Sea-Dweller Submariner Mark IV 214 Double-Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1665, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made in 1972. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with double red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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US$: 50,000 - 80,000 / €: 35,000 - 55,000

364

3*

AAA

SEA-DWELLER

365

SEA-DWELLER

Col Plummer Ref. 1665 Mark IV, Double-Red Sea-Dweller Submariner 215 Lt. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1665. Sold on April 28, 1978. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original warranty (now void), sales receipt from Bucherer and an original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back with dedication inscription and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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AAA

US$: 60,000 - 90,000 / €: 40,000 - 60,000

Lt. Colonel Kenneth Plummer (1922-1997) orn on March 24, 1922 in Chicago, Illinois, Lt. Colonel Plummer was a respected and well-liked figure in Chicago and Washington D.C. His organizational and logistic skills, flair for communication, persuasive intelligence, and ability to build alliances and manage people and events were recognized by all who knew him. Enlisting in the Army in late 1942 while still in college, Lt. Colonel Plummer served in the Philippine Islands (Luzon and Mindanao). He was a platoon leader, Infantry company commander, and commander of a Prisoner of War camp in the Philippines. After the war, Lt. Colonel Plummer returned to Chicago, but returned to active duty in the 1950s, after being promoted to Captain in 1954. He had a long association with the U.S. Fifth Army Headquarters in Chicago with the 355th Infantry Regiment, the 322nd Logistical Command and the 366th Public Information Detachment. Lt. Colonel Plummer was promoted to Major in 1961 and Lieutenant Colonel in 1966.

B

366

SEA-DWELLER

He continued serving his nation after retiring from active duty in 1973, when he embarked on a successful business career. In addition to his efforts on behalf of Vietnam veterans, he led efforts to install medical teams of doctors and nurses in Cambodian refugee camps on the Cambodia-Laos border for the Catholic Relief Services. In 1994, Lt. Colonel Plummer chaired the World War II 50th Anniversary D-Day Commemoration for the City of Chicago and organized the re-enactment of the Normandy Beach landing on the shores of Lake Michigan. 367

SEA-DWELLER

Sea-Dweller Submariner Mark IV (last series) 216 Double-Red Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, Submariner 2000, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1665. Made in the late 1970s. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with double red Sea-Dweller logo, helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, Oyster booklet and hang tag. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date, "Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000" printed in red. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

A few of the last ref. 1655 double red Sea Dwellers were produced with the wording on the case back engraved in a circular design. As with all the double red Sea Dwellers, these had the full case number engraved inside the case back (the present watch has the case number engraving). Such case back design was thereafter used in production of the white Sea Dwellers. However, the white Sea Dwellers did not have case number engravings inside the case back. 368

SEA-DWELLER

369

SEA-DWELLER

370

SEA-DWELLER

1665, Sea-Dweller 217 Ref Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, 2000 ft./610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified", Ref. 1665. Made in 1978. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Warranty Certificate (now void) and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bi-directional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3 - 10

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3 - 01

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2

AA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

In 1974 the ref. 1665 Sea Dweller was made with an all white printed dial. The word 'Submariner 2000' was no longer included on the dial. It is known among collectors as the 'Great White'. 371

SEA-DWELLER

1665, Rail Dial 218 Ref. Sea-Dweller 2000 Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, 2000 ft / 610 m, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1665. Made circa 1980. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 610 m, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Oyster Fliplock bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, helium escape valve at 9, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, screwed-down engraved case back and crown. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3

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3 - 7 - 01

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3*

AA

US$: 20,000 - 25,000 / €: 13,000 - 17,000

The present ref. 1665 has the rare 'rail' dial. In 'rail' dials were produced for Rolex for only a two year period by the Stern Company that made the COMEX ref. 1665 dials. The distinctive characteristics of the 'rail' dial are as follow: (i) The text of 'Superlative Chronometer' and 'Officially Certified' is equally spaced so that the 'C' from 'Chronometer' is directly above the 'C' from 'Certified'; (ii) the font used for the depth markings is italicized; (iii) the minute markers are longer and closer to the tritium hour markers; (iv) the dial is marked 'T SWISS T <25'. 372

SEA-DWELLER

373

SEA-DWELLER

374

SEA-DWELLER

1665, Sea-Dweller Retailed by Cartier 219 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, 2000 ft / 610 m, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1665. Made in 1978. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Oyster “Fliplock” bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, first generation helium escape valve at 9, graduated revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the Crown Guard, screw-down case back and crown. Lug stamped with Cartier numbers. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating freesprung Breguet balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3

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3*

AAA

US$: 60,000 - 90,000 / €: 40,000 - 60,000

The name Cartier is synonymous with beautiful objects of quality and style. Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by LouisFrançois Cartier. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier, took over the administration of the company, but it was his sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the world-wide brand name of Cartier. Due to their international prestige Cartier (together with Tiffany & Co.) was the last retailers name to appear as co-brand on a Rolex dial. Both Cartier and Tiffany ceased to be Rolex agents in the late 1980s. The high prices now obtained for any Rolex with 'Cartier' on a dial is due not only to the fact that this was the last company (together with Tiffany & Co.) to have its name on a Rolex dial but also to the tradition and heritage that the name Cartier Signifies. 375

SEA-DWELLER

376

SEA-DWELLER

2000 220 Sea-Dweller Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, 2000 ft / 610 m, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified,” Ref. 1665. Made in 1982, sold on May 27, 1983. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant, stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, anchor, red seal, hang tag, one extra link, two instruction booklets and Guarantee document (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, first generation helium escape valve at 9, graduated bidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, screwed-down engraved case back and crown. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3

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US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

377

3*

AA

SEA-DWELLER

378

SEA-DWELLER

Mexican President Jose López Portillo with Queen Silvia and Princess Lilian of Sweden

Jose López Portillo orn in Mexico City, López Portillo studied Law at the National Autonomous University of Mexico before beginning his political career with the Institutional Revolutionary Party in 1959. He held several positions in the administrations of his two predecessors before being appointed finance minister under Luis Echeverría, a close friend, from 1973 to 1975. López Portillo undertook an ambitious program to promote Mexico's economic development with revenues stemming from the discovery of new petroleum reserves in the states of Veracruz and Tabasco by Petróleos Mexicanos (Pemex), the country's publicly owned oil company. López Portillo who was president of Mexico from 1976 to 1982 undertook actions which were highly controversial with respect to the international banking establishment. One of his last actions as president, announced during his annual State of the Nation address on September 1, 1982, was to order the nationalization of the country's banking system.

President Jose López Portillo’s Sea-Dweller 221 Mexican Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea-Dweller, 2000 ft/

B

610 m., Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified”, Ref. 1665. Made in 1974. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water resistant to 610 m, stainless steel wristwatch with helium escape valve. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, first generation helium escape valve at 9, graduated revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the Crown Guard, screw-down case back with dedication inscription and crown. D. Black with luminous round, baton and triangular indexes, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 1570, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 26 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 17 mm.

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3

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3*

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000 379

AAA

SEA-DWELLER

16660 222 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea Dweller 4000ft=1220m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 16660. Made in 1982. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch with second generation gas-escape valve, date and stainless steel “Oysterlock” bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), booklets, hang tag, anchor and original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, graduated unidirectional revolving bezel for the decompression times, "Triplock" winding- crown protected by the Crown Guard, gas escape valve at 9, sapphire crystal. D. Black with luminous steel round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel "skeleton" hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, free-sprung monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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2-9

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2

AAA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

In 1980, the Sea Dweller ref. 1665, was replaced by the first sapphire crystal Sea Dweller, reference 16660. The new Sea Dweller was rated to an incredible 1220 meters (4000 feet) and was produced with an improved gas escapement valve. The 16660 was a transitional watch for Rolex, it was made with the new caliber 3035 movement but the first version retained the old matt dials. 380

SEA-DWELLER

381

SEA-DWELLER

16660, Sea-Dweller 4000 223 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea Dweller 4000ft=1220m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 16660. Made in 1984, sold December 1985. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Rolex Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Warranty document (now void), instruction booklet, hang tag and a service warranty dated November 30, 1997. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, graduated unidirectional revolving black bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, helium escape valve at 9, sapphire crystal. D. Black with luminous round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Height 15 mm.

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3

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US$: 16,000 - 20,000 / €: 11,000 - 13,000

382

3*

AA

SEA-DWELLER

383

SEA-DWELLER

16660 Tiffany & Co. 224 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea Dweller 4000ft=1220m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”, Ref. 16660. Made in 1983 and retailed by Tiffany. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with second generation gas-escape valve, date, and stainless steel “Oysterlock” bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, graduated unidirectional revolving bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding- crown protected by the Crown Guard, gas escape valve at 9, sapphire crystal. D. Black with luminous steel round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, free-sprung monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Height 15 mm.

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3

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2 - 01

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3*

AAA

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

Tiffany & Co. is a jewelry retailer founded by Charles Tiffany and Teddy Young in New York City in 1837 as a 'stationery and fancy goods emporium.' Tiffany & Co. has since opened stores in major cities all over the world. Due to their important international prestige, Tiffany was together with Cartier, the last retailer names to appear as a co-brand on a Rolex dial. Both Tiffany and Cartier ceased to be Rolex agents in the late 1980s. 384

SEA-DWELLER

385

SEA-DWELLER

16660, Sea-Dweller 4000 225 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual Date, Sea Dweller 4000ft=1220m, Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified,” Ref. 16660. Made in 1986, sold October 26, 1987. Fine and rare, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel diver's wristwatch with second generation helium escape valve, date and a stainless steel Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), instruction booklet and bracelet tool. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down engraved case back, graduated unidirectional revolving bezel for the decompression times, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, heluim escape valve at 9, sapphire crystal. D. Black with luminous steel round, triangular and baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, aperture for the date. Luminous steel skeleton hands. M. Cal. 3035, rhodium-plated, 27 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, free-sprung self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, hack mechanism. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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US$: 7,000 - 10,000 / €: 4,700 - 6,700

386

2

AA

SEA-DWELLER

387

Daytona C OSMOGRAPH D AYTONA mongst the various complications popular in contemporary wristwatches, the chronograph offers a most practical function in a A broad spectrum of situations. Unlike early pocket watch predecessors, which, in a cumbersome process, required ink to literally write an elapsed period of time onto the dial, today’s user can quickly and conveniently activate the chronograph function by the push of a button, measuring short time intervals in addition to the watch’s general purpose of permanently displaying the hours, minutes and seconds. Hence and not surprising, almost all manufacturers offer a basic chronograph or models with added complications in their catalogues. Not a chronograph pioneer, Rolex focused its energies entirely on the water-resistant ‘Oyster’ and self-winding ‘Perpetual’ models. The success of these wristwatches pushed the firm into the position of a ‘sports watch’ manufacturer and logically, Rolex presented its first chronograph in the 1930s, but rather than developing a proprietary movement in a costly process, decided on an economical, yet reliable, ‘Valjoux’ movement like most of the competitors. Offered in 3 different sizes, these watches featured uncomplicated onebutton mechanisms and let the user time one continuous event solely. For instance, the ‘Zerograph’ with reference number 3462, featured an ‘Oyster’ crown and is today an extremely sought after Rolex model. Success however, remained limited, since intermittent intervals could not be read without resetting the time, but in the late 1930s, technological advances and miniaturization permitted producing two-button chronographs. A key breakthrough and consequently, a watch could be stopped during timing and then restarted, where timing left off. During subsequent decades, a distinctive Rolex style evolved gradually and the company continued using hand-wound ‘Valjoux’ movements, first the ‘23’, then the ‘72’ and later the ‘727’ caliber. In 1949, Ref. 5034 finally became the first Rolex chronograph featuring the signature ‘Oyster’ case in combination with 3 round buttons to operate the start, stop and reset functions, made in only 12 yellow gold and 12 pink gold versions. Over time, Ref. 5034 evolved into model 6034, which became Ref. 6234, before it turned into model 6238, the so-called ‘Pre-Daytona’ chronograph with “Valjoux 72’ movement. Finally in 1960, Rolex decided on a major facelift for its chronograph line and the ‘Cosmograph’ wristwatch emerged as a model 6239, derived from the ‘Antimagnetic’ line. After ‘World War II’, optimistic America had enjoyed an economic boom and the nation’s automobile manufactures started producing powerful and extremely thirsty V6 or V8 engines. The horsepower race received a further boost, when in 1956 President Dwight D. Eisenhower’s ‘Highway Trust Fund Act’ marked the beginning of building a net of interstate highways across the country. As automobile designers looked to the skies, sketching cars with gigantic fins like the 1957 ‘Chevrolet Bel Air’, car racing turned into a major sports attraction. Daytona Beach in Florida was location of one of the biggest races in automotive history and the racing community embraced chronograph watches as useful tools in calculating average lap speed. In 1961, Rolex released a similar model to Ref. 6239, the 6241 and soon, both wristwatches became known as ‘Daytona’ watches, ever growing in popularity since. Initially, Rolex offered a choice of dial configurations and one particular one, the ‘exotic dial’, is known today as the ‘Paul Newman’, a term never used officially by Rolex. Such dials featured either cream (with black registers) or black (with white registers) colors and within each totalisator square markers. These manually wound chronographs had stainless steel non‘Oyster’ cases, non-screwed-down round pushers with internal gaskets as their sole sealing mechanism and 6 mm. large ‘Twinlock’ crowns. Quickly, they were in great demand, principally amongst Italian watch aficionados. (Interestingly, movie star Paul Newman doesn’t remember wearing a Rolex ‘Daytona’ in the famous film ‘Winning’ and his first ‘Daytona’ wristwatch, which appears being a Ref. 6263, was a gift from wife Joanne Woodward, when Newman started a professional racing career in 1972). 388

Major change occurred in the late 1970s, when Rolex introduced reference number 6263, the first ‘Cosmograph’ with water-resistant pushbuttons, which prevented users pressing the pushers whilst submerged in water and the locking feature prohibited inadvertent chronograph activation as well. Ref. 6263 was water-resistant to 50 meters, but during a 10 year period its depth rating increased to 100 meters. Unusual fact, caliber quality depended on the case material and movements in stainless steel chronographs were not timed to chronometer standards, a privilege reserved exclusively for the 18K gold versions. In 1988, Rolex released a new incarnation of its success model and a red ‘Daytona’ print graced the novelty’s dial. The firm abandoned the ‘Valjoux’ workhorse in favor of an automatic Zenith ‘400/El Primero’ caliber with excellent reputation, an integrated mechanical movement with column wheel governing all chronograph functions. Rolex modified this engine and named it Cal. 4030, amongst the changes a lower frequency of 28,800 hourly vibrations instead of 36,000 and of course, a free-sprung ‘Microstella’ balance. The stainlesssteel ‘Daytona’, Ref. 16520, turned into one of the most popular, yet hardest to get chronographs on the market and limited production quantities indicated that the Geneva manufacturer played expertly the marketing game and understood precisely, how to nourish this officially certified chronometer, which by now was an iconic classic. Versions in 18K yellow gold (1991) or in a steel/gold combination (1992) followed and concurrently in the collector’s market, prices for high-quality vintage ‘Cosmograph’ models began skyrocketing as American and Japanese watch aficionados caught on. Since horology’s victorious mid-1980s renaissance, collectors’ tastes have diversified and the Swiss watch industry undertook transformation: As a result, increasing numbers of manufacturers decided creating exclusive high-end movements and the use of ‘Zenith’ calibers in Rolex chronographs was met with snobbish attitudes. Thus and for strategic reasons (decreasing its dependency on suppliers), Rolex's latest addition to the ‘Daytona’ whirl was launched at the 2000 Basel fair, denominated with reference number 116520 and powered by Cal. 4130, a brand-new and entirely different horological motorization developed by Rolex, which replaced the proven Zenith ‘El Primero’-based caliber, thus ending an over decade-old association. The replacement was definitely more exclusive, comprised lesser components than conventional chronograph calibers and according to company watchmakers also more economical to service, although the ‘Daytona’ model changed little in visual appearance. In 1995 Paul Newman, the world-famous film actor won the ‘GT1 Class’ competition in the Rolex ‘24 Hours of Daytona’ race. The champion was presented with a white-dialed ‘Cosmograph Daytona’ chronometer, Ref. 16520 in stainless steel and his reward featured a case back engraving: 'Rolex 24 H. at Daytona - Paul Newman - Rolex Motorsport’s Man of the Year - 1995'. In his usual fashion, the generous movie star donated this commemorative wristwatch to Antiquorum’s ‘Famous Faces’ New York charity auction in 1999: After fierce bidding, when the gavel fell, this symbol of celebrity plus Rolex memorabilia far exceeded its pre-auction estimate and sold for astounding $39,000. In retrospect and over the years, the ‘Cosmograph’ developed in typical Rolex fashion with moderate short-term improvements, yet significant advances in the long run, including optimization of the steel and precious metal bracelets or an increase in the model’s water-resistance. Today, the ‘Cosmograph Daytona’ chronometer chronograph with its tachometer-engraved bezel, particularly in the stainless steel version, is a wristwatch in its own class: A rare trophy awarded to the accomplished sportsman, coveted collectible to the Rolex enthusiast and object of desire. 389

DAYTONA

3055, Pink Gold “Piccolino” 226 Ref. Rolex, “Chronograph, Anti-Magnetique”, Ref. 3055. Made in the 1950s. Very fine and extremely rare, small, 18K pink gold mid-sized wristwatch with square button chronograph, register, tachometer and an 18K yellow gold Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, solid, polished, stepped bezel, concave lugs. D. Ivory-colored with applied pink gold dart and diamond-shaped indexes, outer minute/seconds and 1/5th seconds divisions, subsidiary dials for the seconds and 30-minute register, outermost tachometer scale. Pink gold alpha hands. M. Cal. 69, 10 1/2''', rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 30 mm. Thickness 11 mm.

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3-9

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3*

AAA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

The reference 3055 was first released in the 1930s with olive button chronograph and it was thereafter re-launched in the 1950s with the same reference and square button chronograph. In period advertising for this reference Rolex proclaimed it as the smallest chronograph in the world. It was available in stainless steel at a cost of 1,025 Lire or in 18K yellow or pink gold for 2,000 Lire. In the same advertisement a Rolex 18K gold chronograph pocket watch was priced at 1,920 Lire. 390

DAYTONA

391

DAYTONA

392

DAYTONA

4537, Pink Gold Oyster Chronograph 227 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Chronograph, Anti-Magnetique”, with Oyster crown, Ref. 4537. Made circa 1950. Very fine and rare, tonneau-shaped, water-resistant, 18K pink gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, telemeter and an 18K pink gold riveted Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted Rolex box. C. Two-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, Oyster crown. D. Matte silver with applied pink gold Arabic and diamond-shaped indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions with Arabic five minute/seconds markers, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers, outer tachometer and telemeter scales. Pink gold dauphine hands. M. Cal 72, 13''', rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

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3*

US$: 80,000 - 120,000 / €: 55,000 - 80,000

The ref. 4537 was produced for one year only, in 1946, and in a very small number of examples in stainless steel, yellow and pink gold. It is considered one of the rarest production references by Rolex for its Oyster chronographs. The ref. 4537 was the predecessor of the Reference 6034. 393

DAYTONA

6236, "Jean-Claude Killy" 228 Ref. Rolex "Oyster Chronograph, Antimagnetic”, Ref. 6236. Made in 1958. Very fine and rare, tonneau-shaped, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, triple date and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box. C. Three-body, solid, polished, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Matte silver with applied steel faceted indexes, luminous dots, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers, outer graduation for the days of the month in light blue Arabic numerals, concentric, 1/5th second scale, apertures for the days of the week and the months. Luminous steel Alpha hands. M. 13''', 72C, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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3

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3*

US$: 80,000 - 120,000 / €: 55,000 - 80,000

The reference 6236 Antimagnetic chronograph with triple date was produced in few examples from 1958 to the early 1960s in yellow, pink gold and very few in stainless steel, with various dial designs and hand shapes. The ref. 6236 is known among collectors as the 'Jean-Claude Killy.' Mr. Killy was an internationally renowned world ski champion in the 1960s and remains as the classy ambassador of Rolex in numerous advertising campaigns. The main difference between the 6236 and the 6036 is that the 6236 has a three body case and the 6036 has a two body case. It is extremely rare for a ref. 6236, with an exceptionally rare dial with sunk-in indexes, to appear on the open market in such clean and original condition. 394

395

DAYTONA

8171, Exotic Dial 229 Ref Rolex, "Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer," Ref. 8171. Made circa 1950. Very fine and rare, astronomic, self-winding, 18K pink gold wristwatch with triple date, moon phases and an 18K pink gold Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, polished, inclined bezel, concave and curved lugs, snap-on back. D. Champagne with applied pink gold Arabic numerals and dart and pyramid indexes, subsidiary seconds dial, outer graduation for the days of the month in blue Arabic numerals, apertures for the days of the week, the months and the moon phases. Luminous pink gold alpha hands. M. Cal. 10 1/2''', rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, patented Superbalance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, micrometer regulator. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 15 mm.

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3

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3- 03

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3*

AAA

US$: 70,000 - 100,000 / €: 47,000 - 67,000

This reference is called "Padellone" by Italian collectors. The interior case back is stamped with the number 288 referring to the fact that the present watch was the 288th example of the reference 8171 to be made. The collection of Guido Mondani all started with a ref. 8171 which he received from his wife as a gift for his 41st birthday, the ref. 8171 inspired Mr. Mondani to start a Rolex collection of highest quality. Mr. Mondani named the ref. 8171 as the 'Foundation' watch. 396

DAYTONA

397

DAYTONA

8171, Stainless Steel "Padellone" 230 Ref. Rolex, “Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer”, Ref. 8171. Made in 1950. Very fine and rare astronomic, antimagnetic, self-winding, stainless steel wristwatch with triple date, moon phases stainless steel Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, polished, sloped bezel, concave and curved lugs. D. Matte silver with applied steel dart and pyramidal indexes, Arabic 12, outer minute divisions, subsidiary seconds, outermost graduation for the days of the month in blue Arabic numerals, apertures for the days of the week, the months and the moon phases. White gold baton hands. M. Cal. 10 1/2''', rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, Superbalance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 38 mm. Thickness 13.2 mm.

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3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

The reference 8171 has been for years one of the most sought after models by collectors. It was produced from 1949 through 1952 in yellow and pink gold as well as stainless steel. The incredibly original and un-restored condition of the present watch including the interior and exterior of the case back provides the collector with an excellent opportunity to better understand the production techniques of Rolex. For example the number 280 stamped in the case back refers to the fact that the present watch was the 280th example of the reference 8171 to be made. In addition, the ref. 8171's case back was engraved with the Rolex coronet and the case number (the present watch bearing the number '6863xx'). 398

DAYTONA

399

DAYTONA

Gold Ref. 6062 231 Yellow Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Officially Certified Chronometer," Ref. 6062. Made in the early 1950s. Very fine and extremely rare, tonneau-shaped, astronomic, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold chronometer wristwatch with triple date, moon phases and an 18K yellow gold Rolex buckle. Accompanied by a fitted box and Oyster pamphlet. C. Two-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Matte silver with applied faceted yellow gold dart indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary seconds, outer graduation for the days of the month in blue Arabic numerals, apertures for the days of the week, the months and the moon phases. Luminous yellow gold dauphine hands. M. Cal. 655, "Chronometer," rhodium-plated, 18 jewels, straight line lever escapement, Super-balance timed in 6 positions, self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

The ref. 6062 was produced from 1949 to 1953, with 350 examples in yellow gold, 50 examples in pink gold and very few in stainless steel. This reference features a great variety of indexes; with the rarest being the diamond indexes and then the star indexes. Very few examples have black dials, and only two are known with black dial and diamond indexes. Watches with black dials always had the moon featured on a black enamel sky. It is interesting to note that in Rolex's advertisement the ref. 6062 was referred to as the 'COSMOGRAPH'. 400

DAYTONA

401

DAYTONA

6034, “Pre-Daytona” 232 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Chronograph, Anti-Magnetic", Ref. 6034/6234. Made in 1950. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, telemeter and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by an extra Rolex dial and a fitted box. C. Two-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Matte silver with applied steel dart indexes and luminous dot markers, minute track with 1/5th seconds divisions and 5-minute/seconds Arabic numerals, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers, outer black tachometer and blue telemeter graduations. Luminous steel alpha hands. M. Cal. 72A, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, index regulator. Dial, case, and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 28,000 - 34,000 / €: 19,000 - 23,000

The reference 6034 was made from 1946 until the early 1960s and replaced the ref. 4537. The reference 6034 , 6234 and 6238 are nicknamed ‘Pre-Daytona’ by collectors. 402

DAYTONA

403

DAYTONA

6234, "Pre-Daytona" 233 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Chronograph, Anti-Magnetic," Ref. 6234. Made in the 1950s. Fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown. D. Matte silver with applied steel dart indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Steel alpha hands. M. Cal. 72 A, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness: 14 mm.

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3*

AA

US$: 30,000 - 40,000 / €: 20,000 - 27,000

In the 1940s the ref. 6034 was renumbered as the reference 6234 and was produced until 1962 and featured in the Rolex catalogues until 1963. The reference 6034 , 6234 and 6238 are nicknamed ‘Pre-Daytona’ by collectors. 404

DAYTONA

405

DAYTONA

406

DAYTONA

6238, “Pre-Daytona” 234 Ref. Rolex, “Chronograph,” Ref. 6238. Made in 1964. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, polished inclined bezel. D. Satine silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers, outer tachometer scale. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 72B, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000

In 1962 the ref. 6234 evolved into the reference 6238 and featured in the Rolex catalogues until 1968. This reference is also called ‘Pre-Daytona’ by collectors and was produced in stainless steel and in 14K and 18K gold. It was published for the first time in the Rolex catalogue for the Italian Market in 1964 and remained there until 1968. Its production is estimated at 3,600 examples from 1962 to 1967. The ref. 6238 was not yet an ‘Oyster’ version and did not have a screw down winding crown or screw down timing buttons. 407

DAYTONA

408

DAYTONA

6238, Cosmograph 235 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph", Ref. 6238. Made circa 1965. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round-button chronograph, steel bezel, registers, and a stainless steel Rolex Jubilee bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, Twinlock winding crown. D. Bicolor matte silver and black with faceted steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, 12-hour, and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 722, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 32,000 - 36,000 / €: 21,000 - 24,000

The reference 6238 was the first new chronograph model launched after Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf’s death, (who passed away in 1960). 409

DAYTONA

410

DAYTONA

6238, “Paul Newman” 236 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona", Ref. 6238. Made circa 1965. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round-button chronograph, steel bezel, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, Twinlock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor matte silver and black with square steel indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 60,000 - 90,000 / €: 40,000 - 60,000

The reference 6238 was the first version of the Rolex Cosmograph. The first example of the ref. 6238 with the ‘exotic dial’ (so-called ‘Paul Newman’ dial) came on the market in the late 60s. Interestingly, these original Daytona watches were not in demand when produced and accordingly were available for appallingly little money, but have gained rapid esteem in the collector milieu. The ref. 6238 with the ‘Paul Newman’ dial is an extremely rare version of the watch. The last ref. 6238 to appear in an Antiquorum auction was in November 13, 1999. 411

DAYTONA

6239, Retailed by Cartier 237 Ref Rolex, “Cosmograph Daytona”, Ref. 6239, retailed by Cartier. Made in the early 1960s. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, steel bezel graduated to 200 units per hour, and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel, lug stamped with Cartier numbers. D. Bicolor black and silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary silver guilloche dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 72 B, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 60,000 - 90,000 / €: 40,000 - 60,000 412

3*

AAA

DAYTONA

413

DAYTONA

414

DAYTONA

6239, "Paul Newman" 238 Ref. Rolex, “Cosmograph Daytona", Ref. 6239. Made in 1968, sold August 4, 1969. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with steel bezel, round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by 3 Guarantee documents (now void), a wallet and a fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor matte silver and black with applied steel indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds scale, guilloché subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 722 -1, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 36 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 60,000 - 90,000 / €: 40,000 - 60,000

The reference. 6239 was produced from 1961 to 1976, the first examples with exotic dial, the so-called ‘Paul Newman’, came on the market in the late 60s. They were produced in 18K yellow gold, 14K yellow gold and stainless steel. Since the ref. 6239 has round non-screwed down push buttons, some collectors consider it a ‘Non-Oyster’ model. The famous ‘Daytona’ inscription was introduced circa 1964. In the very early models the bezel was graduated to 300 units/hour and the later version it was graduated to 200. The ref. 6239 was replaced by the ref. 6263. It is said that Paul Newman himself to this day wears a ref. 6239 ‘Daytona’ and has done so since 1972, the watch having been given to him by his wife, Joanne Woodward, when Mr. Newman took up automobile racing. 415

DAYTONA

416

DAYTONA

6241, "Paul Newman" 239 Ref. Rolex, Cosmograph Daytona, Ref. 6241. Made in the late 1960s. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, anti-reflect black bezel graduated to 200 units per hour and an 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor champagne and black with applied square yellow gold indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 722-1, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 110,000 - 140,000 / €: 75,000 - 95,000

The reference 6241 was the third Cosmograph Daytona to be released and was made from from 1961 until 1970. It was available in stainless steel and either 14K or 18K gold with a black plastic insert bezel. As an option, the ‘exotic dial’ or socalled ‘Paul Newman’ dial was available and is today very rare and collectible. The ref. 6241 was replaced by Ref. 6265. The ‘Paul Newman’ models are much rarer than the standard ‘Cosmograph’ dials and consequently sought after by collectors. 417

DAYTONA

6241, "Paul Newman" 240 Ref. Rolex, Cosmograph Daytona, Ref. 6241. Made in the late 1960s. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, anti-reflect black bezel graduated to 200 units per hour and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, 2 instruction booklets, hang tag and Guarantee document (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor beige and black with applied steel indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727-1, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating freesprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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US$: 100,000 - 130,000 / €: 67,000 - 87,000

418

2*

DAYTONA

419

DAYTONA

420

DAYTONA

6262, Cosmograph Daytona, Paul Newman 241 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 6262/6239. Made in 1969. Very fine and very rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-color matte silver and black with square steel indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black dials for the seconds, the 12- hour and 30-minute registers, recessed outer minute/seconds track in black. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock-absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

US$: 70,000 - 100,000 / €: 47,000 - 67,000

Reference 6262 was the second version of Cosmograph featuring pump pushers and replaced reference 6239. Offered at the same time as its sister version with a black plastic bezel (Ref. 6264), it was featured in the catalogues from the midsixties to about 1970. 421

DAYTONA

422

DAYTONA

6240, Cosmograph 242 Ref. Rolex, Oyster Cosmograph, Ref. 6240. Made circa 1964. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, anti-reflective black bezel graduated to 200 units per hour and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a fitted box, Guarantee Certificate (now void) and one extra link. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor black and silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 722-1, rhodiumplated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000

The reference 6240 has always been an interesting model as it marks the transition from the pump pushers to the screwdown version. This reference was the first model to integrate this water/dust protecting feature but it also had its dial signed for the first time Oyster as well as having at the bottom "O T Swiss T O", not usually found on any other references. 423

DAYTONA

Oyster Cosmograph, Ref. 6263/6262 with black anti-reflective bezel. Produced in the 1970s. 243 Rolex, Fine and rare, water-resistant, a bark-finished stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, register and tachometer and a stainless steel bark-finished Oyster bracelet with deployant clasp. C. Three-body, polished and bark-finished, screw-down case back, push-buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Two-tone silver and black with applied steel baton indexes, subsidiary seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute register dials. Tritium-coated baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock-absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance-spring. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm. Approx. overall length 185 mm.

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US$: 45,000 - 55,000 / €: 30,000 - 37,000

424

3*

AAA

DAYTONA

425

DAYTONA

6263 Fuerza Aerea del Peru 244 Ref. Rolex Oyster Cosmograph Daytona, Ref. 6263/6265. Made in 1974 for the "Fuerza Aerea del Peru". Very fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and anti-reflective black bezel graduated to 200 units per hour. Accompanied by a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down dedicated case back, Triplock crown and chronograph pushers, tachometer graduation on the bezel. D. Bicolor black and matte silver with applied steel bâton indexes and tritium dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm. Approx. overall length 195 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 50,000 - 70,000 / €: 34,000 - 47,000

The Peruvian Air Force was reorganized under the presidency of Manuel Odria and was renamed in 1950 the Fuerza Aerea del Peru (sometimes abbreviated as FAP). Having already started ordering chronographs from Rolex (among other models) starting from reference 6238, the FAP decided to order from Rolex some chronographs for their superior officers and chose the current model of the time, Reference 6263. 426

DAYTONA

427

DAYTONA

428

DAYTONA

Rambo Daytona 245 The Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona", Ref. 6263/6262. Made in the late 1970s. Very fine and very rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with black bezel, round-button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a 3-page biography of Colonel “Bo” Gritz. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour, case back engraved: COL BO GRITZ, OPN POW - MIA 1979 - 84. D. Bi-color matte silver and black with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

AAA

US$: 35,000 - 45,000 / €: 23,000 - 30,000

A

true American hero, Colonel James “Bo” Gritz was born on January 18, 1939 in Enid, Oklahoma and spent 22 years in the military, rising through the enlisted and officer ranks. He served as a Green Beret commander in Southeast Asia from 1964-1969 and was 429

featured in General William Westmoreland’s memoir, “A Soldier Reports”. During his tour of duty in Vietnam, Colonel Gritz was the Intelligence Officer and Reconnaissance Chief for Delta Force, and commanded the first guerrilla forces which expanded into a Mobile Strike Command of 3,000 mercenary and free world special operations forces. He was decorated 62 times for Valor; the Purple Heart and the Distinguished Flying Cross are just two of the honors he received. After serving as a military attaché in China, and working in the Pentagon in various capacities, Colonel Gritz was asked by the Defense Intelligence Agency to go in search of U.S. POW’s in October, 1978, and became a Principal Agent for the NSC’s Intelligence Support Activity. As a result of his efforts to locate U.S. POW’s in Southeast Asia, Colonel Gritz is said to be the inspiration for the iconic character of John Rambo, a Vietnam veteran and soldier-offortune played by Sylvester Stallone, the latest film of which was released in January, 2008. Colonel Gritz’s adventures appear to have particularly informed the 1985 film “Rambo: First Blood, Part II, recounting Rambo’s return to Vietnam to rescue a group of POW’s. The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 offered here is quite remarkable in that the case back is engraved: “Colonel Bo Gritz, OPN POW-MIA (19791984)”. It is conceivable that Colonel Gritz wore this watch while carrying out secret government missions. Even more remarkable is the fact that the watch has remained in such pristine condition. In conclusion, this Rolex Daytona is not simply a prized wristwatch, but indeed, a small piece of modern American history and a symbol of true heroism.

DAYTONA

Steel Cosmograph Daytona 246 Stainless Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona," Ref. 6263. Made in 1980, sold on October 1, 1981. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with black bezel, round-button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, Warranty document (now void) and 2 instruction booklets. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-color matte black and silver with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary silver guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 20,000 - 30,000 / €: 13,000 - 20,000

430

3*

AAA

DAYTONA

431

DAYTONA

432

DAYTONA

6263, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 247 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster, Cosmograph, Daytona", case No. 5503446, Ref. 6263, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Made in the early 1980s. Fine, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, anti-reflective black bezel with tachometer, and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and Triplock crown, tachometer graduation on the antireflective bezel to 200 units/hour. D. Bicolor black and silver with applied steel baton indexes and luminous dots, outer minute and 1/5th seconds divisions, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 30-minute and 12-hour registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 25,000 - 35,000 / €: 17,000 - 23,000

433

3*

AA

DAYTONA

Steel Cosmograph Daytona 248 Stainless Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona," Ref. 6263. Made circa 1984. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with black bezel, round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-color matte silver and black with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 37,000 - 43,000 / €: 25,000 - 30,000

434

2

AAA

DAYTONA

435

DAYTONA

F

redrick Bricker, the original owner of this watch, was the top salesman in Tiffany's watch department. Every year around Christmas time, he purchased a new watch for himself. As an employee of Tiffany & Co., he was not only able to buy the watch at cost but was even given a further 20% discount. It is exceptional to find a Cosmograph Daytona co-branded by a prestigious retailer, but to find a watch complete with its original warranty and invoice from Rolex which records and confirms that the purchaser of the watch was employed by the co-branded retailer is no doubt unique. 436

DAYTONA

6263, retailed by Tiffany & Co. 249 Ref Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona," Ref. 6263. Made in 1984, sold December 2, 1985, retailed by Tiffany & Co. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with with black bezel, round-button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original Warranty document (now void), bill of sale and instruction booklet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-color matte silver and black with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3*

US$: 100,000 - 150,000 / €: 67,000 - 100,000

437

AAA

DAYTONA

6265, Exotic Dial 250 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona", Ref. 6265 / 6262. Made circa 1970. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with steel bezel, round-button chronograph, registers and tachometer. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-colored, satine silver and black with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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US$: 35,000 - 45,000 / €: 23,000 - 30,000

438

3*

AA

DAYTONA

439

DAYTONA

Gold Cosmograph “Paul Newman” 251 14K Rolex, "Oyster, Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 6265/6263. Made circa 1980. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, 14K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, gold bezel with tachometer, and an 14K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original warranty (now void), service invoice, and original fitted box. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the gold bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor champagne and black with applied gold baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds scale, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous gold baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3*

US$: 60,000 - 100,000 / €: 40,000 - 67,000

440

DAYTONA

T

he 'Rolex Oyster Cosmograph' exotic dial has become known by collectors as the 'Mayer' daytona, named after five-time Grammy Award winning guitarist, singer and songwriter John Mayer. Mr. Mayer is an avid watch collector and a vintage Rolex sport watch aficionado. He is regularly seen wearing an exotic dialed 'Rolex Oyster Cosmograph' from his collection. Mr. Mayer was named as one of Time magazine's "100 Most Influential People of 2007". 441

DAYTONA

442

DAYTONA

6265, “Paul Newman” 252 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph", Ref. 6265 / 6262. Made circa 1972. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with steel bezel, round-button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor matte silver and black with square steel indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3-9

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3 - 01

M

2

US$: 120,000 - 160,000 / €: 80,000 - 110,000

443

DAYTONA

444

DAYTONA

Steel Cosmograph Daytona 253 Stainless Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona", Ref. 6265/6262. Made in the 1970s. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with steel bezel, round-button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by a Service Warranty dated December 21, 2004 (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-color satine silver and black with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary black guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

3 - 7 - 01

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3 - 9*

US$: 18,000 - 23,000 / €: 12,000 - 15,000

445

AA

DAYTONA

6265, Yellow Gold Cosmograph 254 Ref. Rolex, Oyster, Cosmograph, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 6265. Made circa 1978. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, 14K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, yellow gold bezel with tachometer and an 14K yellow gold Jubilee bracelet. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the gold bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor champagne and black with applied yellow gold faceted baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds track, subsidiary dials for the seconds, 12-hour and 30- minute registers. Luminous yellow gold baton hands, M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 60,000 - 80,000 / €: 40,000 - 55,000

446

3*

AAA

DAYTONA

447

DAYTONA

6265 Yellow Gold "Paul Newman" 255 Ref. Rolex, Oyster, Cosmograph Daytona, Ref. 6265. Made circa 1979. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, yellow gold bezel with tachometer, and an 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by its original warranty (now void), booklets and original fitted box. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the gold bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor black and champagne with applied black indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds track, subsidiary dials for the seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous gold baton hands, M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating freesprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

C

2

D

2 - 01

M

2

US$: 80,000 - 120,000 / €: 55,000 - 80,000 448

DAYTONA

449

DAYTONA

450

DAYTONA

Gold Ref. 6265 256 Yellow Rolex, Oyster, Cosmograph, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Ref. 6265. Made circa 1980. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with yellow gold bezel, round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a Rolex buckle. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, tachometer graduation on the gold bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bicolor black and champagne with applied faceted gold baton indexes and luminous dots, outer 1/5th seconds track, subsidiary dials for the seconds, 12-hour and 30- minute registers. Luminous gold baton hands, M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 14 mm.

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3

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 70,000 - 90,000 / €: 47,000 - 60,000

451

2

AAA

DAYTONA

Steel Cosmograph Daytona 257 Stainless Rolex, "Oyster Cosmograph Daytona," Ref. 6265. Made in the late 1970s. Very fine and rare, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with steel bezel, round-button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by the original box, guarantee (now void), 2 instruction booklets and a Service Warranty dated 10-03-2003 (now void). C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 200 units per hour. D. Bi-color matte black and silver with steel baton indexes and luminous dots, subsidiary silver guilloché dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 727, rhodium-plated, 17 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 3 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 37 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

452

3*

AAA

DAYTONA

453

DAYTONA

454

DAYTONA

16523, Floating Cosmograph 258 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona,” Ref. 16523. Made in circa 1990. Fine, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel and 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, and a stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Oyster bracelet. Accompanied by an instruction booklet and the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the gold bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and champagne with applied luminous gold indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30minute registers. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

3 - 7 - 01

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3*

AA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

Around 1988, Rolex decided to discontinue the now classic Daytona manual wind model. They replaced it by a brand model that would feature among others a new automatic movement. At that time, Rolex was not producing an in-house automatic chronograph movement so they decided to use the very reliable Zenith based movement (Caliber 4030). In the first models they introduced, the new Daytonas featured a specific dial design that would be quickly discontinued (after approximately two years). They are instantly recognizable by the word Cosmograph clearly detached from the rest of the writing. This dial version became known to collectors as the "floating " Cosmograph. 455

DAYTONA

16520 Color Change Mark I 259 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 16520. Made in the early 1990s. Fine and rare, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, Guarantee Certificate (now void), hang tag, red seal, wallet with 2 instruction booklets and a recent service invoice. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and reddish silver with applied luminous steel indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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2

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2 - 01

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1

AAA

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

The reference 16520 was one of the first modern Rolex to show some color change around the Sub-dials. Some debate still remains around the real reasons of this "color-change" ranging from defective materials originally used by Rolex to exposure to ultra-violet light. With the ever-increasing trend of tropical dials in the current market, this "anomaly" quickly became a classic among collectors, the dials showing various degrees of shift depending on exposure. 456

DAYTONA

457

DAYTONA

16520 Color Change Mark II 260 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 16520. Made in 1993, sold on November 23, 1994. Fine and rare, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by the original fitted box, certificate (now void), 2 instruction booklets with a multi-lingual translation booklet and an extra white dial. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor silver and black with applied luminous steel indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3-9

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000

458

2

AAA

DAYTONA

459

DAYTONA

460

DAYTONA

16520 Color Change Mark III 261 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 16520. Made in 1994. Fine and rare, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void), 2 instruction booklets and a service Warranty dated November 1, 2005. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and reddish silver with applied luminous steel indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

3 - 01

M

US$: 12,000 - 16,000 / €: 8,000 - 11,000

461

3*

AAA

DAYTONA

462

DAYTONA

16518, 18K gold Cosmograph Daytona, Retailed by Tiffany & Co. 262 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph Daytona,” Ref. 16518. Made in the early 1990s. Fine, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and an 18K yellow gold Rolex deployable clasp. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, crown and buttons, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor white and black with applied gold Arabic numerals and luminous yellow gold baton indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30- minute registers. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeilde-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 10,000 - 15,000 / €: 6,700 - 10,000

463

2

AAA

DAYTONA

464

DAYTONA

16518, Yellow Gold Cosmograph Daytona 263 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph Daytona”, Ref. 16518. Made in the early 1990s. Fine, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and an 18K yellow gold Rolex deployable clasp. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void) and a red seal. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, crown and buttons, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor white and black with applied gold Arabic numerals and luminous yellow gold baton indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30- minute registers. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeilde-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

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3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 12,000 - 18,000 / €: 8,000 - 12,000

465

2

AAA

DAYTONA

16520, 24 Hours race winner at Daytona Speedway 264 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 16520. Made in the late 1995. Fine and very rare, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oysterlock bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, dedicated screwed-down case back (engraved with Winner Rolex 24 at Daytona 1996), buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the Crown Guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor silver and black with applied luminous steel indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodiumplated, oeilde-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 30,000 - 40,000 / €: 20,000 - 27,000

466

2

AAA

DAYTONA

Since 1991, Rolex became the title sponsor at the famous race becoming known as the Rolex 24 at Daytona. To mark this event, every winning driver of each class gets a Rolex stainless steel Daytona as a reward that bears a dedication caseback. This particular watch was won at the 1996 race in the GT category in a Porsche 996.

467

DAYTONA

16528, Yellow Gold Cosmograph Daytona, Black Dial 265 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified Cosmograph, Daytona," Ref. 16528. Made in 1994. Fine, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch, with round button chronograph, register, gold bezel with tachometer graduated for 400 UPH and 18K yellow gold Rolex Oysterlock bracelet. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and champagne with applied luminous gold baton indexes, outer minute/seconds divisions, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous gold baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 6 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 18,000 - 23,000 / €: 12,000 - 15,000

468

2

AAA

DAYTONA

469

DAYTONA

470

DAYTONA

16523, Stainless Steel and Yellow Gold “Daytona” 266 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona,” Ref. 16523. Made in 1998, sold on September 25, 1999. Fine, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel and 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, and a stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Oyster Fliplock bracelet. Accompanied by a hang tag, red seal, Guarantee document (now void), and the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back and gold buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the gold bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and champagne with applied luminous gold indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous yellow gold baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, selfcompensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

2

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1 - 01

M

US$: 6,000 - 8,000 / €: 4,000 - 5,400

471

2

AA

DAYTONA

16520 Daytona 267 Ref. Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona", Ref. 16520. Made in 1998. Fine and rare, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void) and the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and silver with applied luminous steel indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

2

US$: 15,000 - 20,000 / €: 10,000 - 13,000

472

AAA

DAYTONA

473

DAYTONA

474

DAYTONA

- Color Change Dial 268 Daytona Rolex, "Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph, Daytona," Ref. 16520. Made in 1998, sold November 27, 1999. Fine and rare, self-winding, water-resistant, stainless steel wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by a Guarantee Certificate (now void), invoice, 2 instruction booklets and the original fitted box. C. Three-body, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Bicolor black and reddish silver with applied luminous steel indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Luminous steel baton hands. M. Cal. 4030, rhodium-plated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 31 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, selfcompensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

3

D

2 - 01

M

US$: 26,000 - 32,000 / €: 17,000 - 21,000

475

2

AAA

DAYTONA

476

DAYTONA

116523, Steel and Yellow Gold Daytona 269 Ref. Rolex, “Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph Daytona,” Ref. 116523. Made in 2002, sold October 16, 2003. Very fine, water-resistant, self winding stainless steel and 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer and a stainless steel and 18K yellow gold Rolex Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by original warranty (now void), booklets, and fitted box. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Champagne-colored mother-of-pearl with applied yellow gold and black inlaid Roman numerals, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers. Yellow gold and black baton hands. M. Cal. 4130, rhodiumplated, oeil-de-perdrix decoration, 44 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

2

D

1 - 01

M

US$: 7,000 - 12,000 / €: 4,700 - 8,000

477

1

AA

DAYTONA

Gold Daytona 270 White Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified, Cosmograph "Daytona", Ref. 116509. Made in 2003, sold on December 16, 2004. Very fine, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K white gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, tachometer, 50-hour autonomy and an 18K white gold Rolex Oysterlock bracelet. Accompanied by the original Warranty Certificate (now void) and 2 instruction booklets. C. Three-body, solid, polished and brushed, screwed-down case back, buttons and crown, Triplock winding crown protected by the crown guard, tachometer graduation on the bezel to 400 units per hour, sapphire crystal. D. Black with applied radial white gold Arabic numerals and luminous indexes, subsidiary dials for the seconds, the 12-hour and 30-minute registers with red outer tachometer graduation. Luminous white gold baton hands. M. Cal. 4130, rhodium-plated, 44 jewels, straight line lever escapement, monometallic balance adjusted to temperatures and 5 positions, shock absorber, self-compensating free-sprung Breguet balance spring, Microstella regulating screws. Dial, case and movement signed. Diam. 40 mm. Thickness 13 mm.

C

2

D

1 - 01

M

US$: 8,000 - 12,000 / €: 5,400 - 8,000 478

1

AAA

DAYTONA

End of the Sale

479

Index

(alphabetically listed with lot number references)

Ashtrays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9, 28 Books & catalogues . . . . . . . . . . .25, 31, 32 Cases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13, 14, 30, 63 Clocks (display) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 to 3 Clocks “Time to the Second” . . . . . . . . .48 Ref. 455 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Coin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Cufflinks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Fathometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Frame (advertising) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5, 6 Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Handles (door) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Keys For Oyster cases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Letter holder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Loupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Medallion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Opener (letter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Opener (Oyster) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Paperweight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Pocket watch, Ref. 3068 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Perfume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Plaque (presentation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Spare parts box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Trays (presentation) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Vacuum apparatus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53, 54 Wallet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Watch display . . . .7, 8, 21, 26, 27, 33 to 47, 49 to 52, 57, 58, 61, 62, 64, 65 Watch movement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59

OYSTER Ref. 1530 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Ref. 1802/1804 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Ref. 1803 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 to 84 Ref. 1804/1803 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Ref. 5500 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Ref. 5500/1002 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 to 69 Ref. 5700/15000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Ref. 6285 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 Ref. 6511 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Ref. 6609 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 Ref. 6694 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 to 74 Ref. 14000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Ref. 16264 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Ref. 16622 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Ref. 17000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76

EXPLORER Ref. 1016 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92, 95 to 98 Ref. 1655 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 to 106 Ref. 5500/1002 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 Ref. 5700/1500 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Ref. 6098 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87, 88 Ref. 6150 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89

Ref. 6350 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Ref. 6610 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Ref. 14270 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 to 101 Ref. 16550 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 to 109 Ref. 16570 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110, 111

GMT-Master Ref. 1675 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 to 122 Ref. 6542 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112, 113 Ref. 16750 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Ref. 16753 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Ref. 16758/16750 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 Ref. 16760 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126

TUDOR Ref. 7021/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Ref. 7031/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 Ref. 7032/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 Ref. 7149/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129, 130 Ref. 7159/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131 Ref. 7169/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132, 133 Ref. 7928 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139, 140 Ref. 9401/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 Ref. 9420 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 Ref. 9420/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Ref. 9430/0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 Ref. 76100 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .144 Ref. 94010 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143 Ref. 94200 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Ref. 94300 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138

MILGAUSS Ref. 1019 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 to148 Ref. 6541 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145

SUBMARINER Ref. 1680 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 to 183 Ref. 3646 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174 Ref. 5508 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161, 162 Ref. 5510 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Ref. 5512 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165, 168 Ref. 5512/5513 . . . . . . . . . . . . .164, 166, 167 Ref. 5513 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169 to 173, 175 Ref. 5517/5513 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 Ref. 6200 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 Ref. 6202 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 to 151 Ref. 6204 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153, 154 Ref. 6205 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Ref. 6536/1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 Ref. 6536/6536-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 Ref. 6538 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158, 159 Ref. A/6538 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160

480

Ref. 16610 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190, 193 Ref. 16610 V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194 Ref. 16613 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191 Ref. 16618 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 Ref. 16800 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184 to 186 Ref. 16803 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 Ref. 16808/16800 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Ref. 168000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189

COMEX Ref. 1665 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201 Ref. 1680 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202 Ref. 5513 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198 Ref. 5514/5513 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199, 200 Ref. 16600 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208 Ref. 16610 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207 Ref. 16660 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 Ref. 16800 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 Ref. 168000/16800 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205, 206 Diving mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Diving wet-suit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197 Flashlight & regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195

SEA-DWELLER Ref. 1665 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209 to 221 Ref. 16660 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222 to 225

DAYTONA Ref. 3055 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226 Ref. 4537 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Ref. 6034/6234 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232 Ref. 6062 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231 Ref. 6234 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Ref. 6236 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228 Ref. 6238 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234 to 236 Ref. 6239 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237, 238 Ref. 6240 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 Ref. 6241 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .239, 240 Ref. 6262/6239 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241 Ref. 6263 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246 to 249 Ref. 6263/6262 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243, 245 Ref. 6263/6265 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244 Ref. 6265 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 to 257 Ref. 6265/6262 . . . . . . . . . . . . .250, 252, 253 Ref. 6265/6263 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251 Ref. 8171 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229, 230 Ref. 16518 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262, 263 Ref. 16520 . . . . . .259 to 261, 264, 267, 268 Ref. 16523 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258, 266 Ref. 16528 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 Ref. 116509 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270 Ref. 116523 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269

Conditions of Sale The auction is a public auction held by Antiquorum USA, Inc. (hereinafter "Antiquorum") on behalf of the Consignors of the lots being sold. A person's participation in the auction and/or purchase of any lots constitutes an agreement to be bound by these Conditions of Sale as well as all rights and obligations arising there from. The Important Notices contained in this catalogue are deemed to be a part of these Conditions of Sale and are hereby incorporated in their entirety into these Conditions of Sale. Except as amended by Antiquorum in its sole and absolute discretion by the posting of notices or oral announcement at the auction or otherwise, these Conditions of Sale together with the Important Notices and the other contents of this catalogue constitute a full recitation of the terms and conditions under which sales are conducted and may not be amended except in a writing acknowledged by Antiquorum. Unless otherwise agreed in writing by Antiquorum these Conditions of Sale shall apply to auction sales as well as all other sales made by Antiquorum. Antiquorum accepts no responsibility for and shall not be liable for any defaults by any Buyers or Consignors. • 1. Lots Offered For Sale Before the sale, all lots may be examined at the exhibition times listed in the catalogue. All interested persons including, without limitation, bidder's representatives and auction agents are understood to have examined all lots which they purchase and to accept them as they are at the moment of the fall of the auctioneer’s hammer and not necessarily as described in any written material or oral communications. Those persons interested in purchasing any of the lots being sold shall be responsible for examining the lots personally to confirm their actual condition. All lots are sold "AS IS" according to their condition at the moment of the fall of the auctioneer’s hammer. Buyer represents that the amounts bid for any lot are based solely on Buyer’s own independent inspection and evaluation of that lot. Antiquorum has included in the catalogue estimates of the value of the lots to be sold. Such estimates have been developed using such experts, tests and other methods as Antiquorum has deemed in its sole discretion to be appropriate under the circumstances. Antiquorum shall have no liability whatsoever relating to estimates of value attributed to the lots and all participants in the auction shall be responsible for reaching their own conclusions as to the value of the lots. Neither Antiquorum nor the Consignor is responsible for any errors and omissions in the catalogue or any advertisements or other written material. Unless specified in the catalogue, lots are subject to reserve price which is a confidential minimum amount the consignor is willing to accept. If the reserve price is not reached, the auctioneer may withdraw the lot from the sale. The auctioneer may open bidding on any lot below the reserve by placing a bid on behalf of the Consignor. The auctioneer may continue to bid on behalf of the Consignor up to the amount of the reserve, either by placing successive or consecutive bids for a lot, or by placing bids in response to other bidders. Except for the Limited Warranty, contained in Section 2 below, all lots are sold without any representations or warranties by Antiquorum or the Consignor as to merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, rarity, importance, the correctness of the catalogue or other description concerning the author, maker, origin, period, age, attribution, authenticity, provenance, weight or condition of any object. No statement (whether oral or written, made in the catalogue, an advertisement, a bill of sale, posting, announcement or elsewhere) whether made by any employee or agent of Antiquorum shall be deemed to be a warranty, representation or assumption of liability. Neither Antiquorum nor the Consignor have any responsibility whatsoever for any defect in or deterioration of any lot. • 2. Limited Warranty Except as otherwise provided in the paragraph immediately following, Antiquorum warrants that, upon the consummation of the sale of any lot under the terms and conditions contained in this catalogue, clear and unencumbered right, title and interest in and to such lot shall pass to the Buyer. Antiquorum guaranties for a period of five years from the date of Sale that (i) timepieces (watches, clocks and pocket watches only) and jewelry items are not intentional forgeries (unless they are described as such by Antiquorum) and (ii) that the general descriptions of the timepieces and jewelry items appearing in this catalogue are true and correct as to matters relating to the origin, history, manufacture and physical characteristics of such timepieces and jewelry items; provided, however, that unless otherwise specifically stated, Antiquorum does not guaranty that (i) all component parts of any timepiece are original to the timepiece, (ii) components of jewelry (i.e. gemstones) have not been enhanced or treated. For purposes of this

guaranty, the term intentional forgery shall mean imitations made with the intention to deceive as to the maker or period of the timepiece or jewelry item or the material used. This guaranty shall be available only to the original Buyer of the timepiece or jewelry item from Antiquorum who has retained ownership since the date of purchase. In order to make a claim under this Guaranty, such Buyer must return the timepiece or jewelry item to Antiquorum immediately upon the discovery of any basis for such a claim in the same condition in which it was purchased. If deemed appropriate by Antiquorum, a third party opinion will be obtained at the sole cost and expense of the Buyer. If the claim is determined to be valid by Antiquorum the sale will be rescinded and the purchase price and Buyer's commission paid by the Buyer for the timepiece or jewelry item will be refunded to the Buyer. Antiquorum's liability under this guaranty shall be strictly limited to the amount of such purchase price and Buyer's commission. The guaranty provided for above shall not apply if any one of the following conditions exists: (i) the catalogue description was, at the time of the publication of the catalogue, consistent with generally accepted opinions of specialists or experts in the relevant field; (ii) the catalogue description indicates a divergence of opinion regarding any aspect of the timepiece or jewelry item; or (iii) the identification of periods or dates of execution and the identification of gemological enhancement or treatment has been proven inaccurate by means of a scientific process which was not generally accepted for use at the time of publication of the catalogue or such procedure was too costly or could have caused damage to the object. Other than the limited warranty and guaranty provisions above, Antiquorum and the Consignor make no representations, warranties or guaranties regarding the lots sold hereunder. • 3. The Auction The purchase price payable by a buyer will be the sum of the final bid price plus the buyer's premium, together with any applicable sales or compensating use tax. The buyer's premium is 20% of hammer price on each lot up to and including US$80,000 plus 18% of any amount in excess of US$80,001 until US$200,000 plus 12% of any amount in excess of US$200,001. Antiquorum may in its sole and absolute discretion and at any time withdraw, group differently or divide any lot included for sale and shall have no liability whatsoever for the same. Antiquorum reserves the right to refuse any bids in its full and absolute discretion. In the event of any dispute between bidders, or any other issue with respect to the bidder, the auctioneer will have absolute discretion to determine the successful bidder, to continue the bidding, to cancel the sale or to reoffer and resell the article in dispute. If any dispute arises after the sale, Antiquorum’s sale record is conclusive. Bidding shall generally be increased in increments of 10%, however, the auctioneer may modify bidding increments from time to time at his/her absolute discretion. Any person bidding for the account of a third party is fully liable for any obligation assumed by such person relating to the sale. This liability includes, without limitation, the verification of the condition and valuation of lots and the payment for lots purchased. Although Antiquorum, in its sole discretion, may execute absentee bids (written bids left with Antiquorum prior to sale) or accept telephone and internet bids as a convenience to clients who are not present at auction, Antiquorum is not responsible for failing to execute such bids or for any errors or omissions in connection therewith. • 4. Payment Title to the offered lot passes to the Buyer upon the fall of the auctioneer’s hammer and the announcement by the auctioneer that the lot has been sold, subject to compliance by the Buyer with all 482

other Conditions of Sale. Buyer shall have no right to revoke acceptance of any Lot after the fall of the hammer. The Buyer thereupon assumes full risk and responsibility for the lot. The Buyer shall immediately pay the full purchase price, Buyer's commission and all applicable sales and other taxes in US dollars. Payment in foreign currencies is accepted at the rates of exchange of the day of sale as determined by Antiquorum. Lots are delivered to the Buyer only upon the full payment of all such amounts. Shipping and packing arrangements and charges are the sole responsibility of the buyer. After payment has been made in full, Antiquorum may, as a service to the buyer, arrange to have the purchased lots packed, insured and shipped at the buyer's request and expense. In this event, the buyer agrees that all said packaging, handling and shipping is at the sole risk of the buyer and that Antiquorum shall have no liability for any loss or damage to the purchased lots. Antiquorum may move the property to an off-site storage at the risk of the Buyer. Buyer will be required to pay all applicable taxes, or fees levied by any authority (unless Antiquorum receives satisfactory exemption, to be determined in Antiquorum’s sole discretion) including, without limitation, New York City sales tax of 8.375 %. If payment on a lot has not been collected by the twenty-fifth calendar day following the sale, the invoice remaining unpaid will be automatically charged to the bidder’s credit card, and the bidder will be liable for an additional administration and handling charge equal to two and one half (2 1/2%) percent of the total invoice. THE BIDDER

HEREBY AUTHORIZES ANTIQUORUM TO RECOVER ANY PART OF THE UNPAID INVOICE, INCLUDING LOST COMMISSIONS AND ADMINISTRATIVE AND HANDLING CHARGES DUE TO THEM, SHOULD BIDDER DEFAULT BY CHARGING THIS AMOUNT TO BIDDER’S CREDIT CARD.

• 5. Remedies, Applicable laws and jurisdiction To the extent that any other information or provision set forth in this catalogue is inconsistent with the Conditions of Sale, the Conditions of Sale shall be controlling. If the Buyer fails to comply with any of these Conditions of Sale, Antiquorum may (in addition to asserting all remedies available by law), (i) hold such defaulting Buyer liable for the purchase price; (ii) cancel the sale; (iii) resell the property without reserve at public auction or privately on seven days’ notice to the Buyer; (iv) pay the Consignor an amount equal to the net proceeds payable in respect of the amount bid by the defaulting Buyer and then resell the property to a third party without reserve at public auction or privately on fifteen (15) days written notice to such Buyer; or (v) take such other action as Antiquorum deems necessary or appropriate. If Antiquorum resells the property pursuant to clause (iii) or (iv) above, the defaulting Buyer shall be liable for the payment of any deficiency between the purchase price and the price obtained upon resale and all costs and expenses, including administration, handling, insurance, warehousing, the expenses of both sales, reasonable attorneys' fees, commissions, incidental damages and all other charges due hereunder. In the event that such Buyer pays a portion of the purchase price for any or all lots purchased, Antiquorum shall apply the payment received to such lot or lots as Antiquorum, in its sole discretion, deems appropriate. Any Buyer who fails to comply with these Conditions of Sale will be deemed to have granted Antiquorum a security interest in, and Antiquorum may retain as collateral security for such buyer's obligation to it, any property in Antiquorum’s possession owned by such Buyer. This security interest secures the principal amount of any such claim and also any outstanding or accruing interest, commissions, costs and all other fees as well as any and all damages suffered by

Antiquorum. Antiquorum is authorized to file and the Buyer agrees to execute, acknowledge and deliver all such other documents as Antiquorum reasonably deems necessary to create, perfect, and continue the security interest in the lots contemplated hereby. If the Buyer fails to execute and deliver any documentation referred to herein, the Buyer irrevocably appoints Antiquorum as his attorney in fact to execute and deliver that documentation for and in the Buyer’s name. Antiquorum shall have the benefit of all rights of a secured party under the New York Uniform Commercial Code. Payment will not be deemed to have been made in full until Antiquorum has collected good funds. In the event the Buyer fails to pay any or all of the total purchase price for any lot and Antiquorum nonetheless elects to pay the consignor any portion of the sale proceeds, the Buyer acknowledges that Antiquorum shall have all of the rights of the consignor to pursue the Buyer for any amounts paid to the consignor, whether at law, in equity, or under these Conditions of Sale. The buyer's sole and exclusive remedy against Antiquorum and the consignor shall be the rescission of the sale and the refund of the original purchase price paid for the lot. This remedy shall be in lieu of any other remedy which might otherwise be available as a matter of law, and neither Antiquorum nor the consignor shall be liable, in whole or in part, for any special, incidental or consequential damages, including, without limitation, loss of profits. By bidding at the auction, whether present in person or by agent, by absentee bid, telephone, internet, or other means, the buyer shall be deemed to have consented to the following: (i) This Agreement shall be interpreted and enforced according to the substantive laws of the State of New York and the buyer hereby irrevocably and unconditionally submits to the exclusive jurisdiction of any State or Federal court sitting in the State of New York, County of New York, over any suit, action or proceeding arising out of or relating to this Agreement. The buyer hereby irrevocably and unconditionally waives any objection to the laying of venue of any such suit, action or proceeding brought in any such court and any claim that any such suit, action or proceeding brought in any such court has been brought in an inconvenient forum. The buyer agrees that a final judgment in any such suit, action or proceeding brought in any such court shall be conclusive and binding upon the buyer and may be enforced in any other courts to whose jurisdiction the buyer is or may be subject, by suit upon such judgment; (ii) At Antiquorum’s sole discretion, any controversy or claim arising out of or relating to this Agreement, or the breach thereof, shall be settled by arbitration administered by the American Arbitration Association ("AAA") under its Commercial Arbitration Rules (such arbitration to be held in New York, New York before a single arbitrator by the AAA, and judgment on the award rendered by the arbitrator may he entered in any court having jurisdiction thereof); and (iii) The Buyer hereby irrevocably waives the personal service of process upon them in any action or proceeding therein and consent that such process be served by registered or certified mail, return receipt requested, directed to the Buyer, such service shall be deemed made five (5) days after mailing. No waiver, delay, modification or breach of any provision of this Agreement by Antiquorum shall constitute a waiver of any preceding or succeeding breach of the same or any other provision hereof. If any part or provision of this agreement is, for any reason, adjudged unenforceable, such adjudication shall in no way affect any other part or provision of this agreement or the validity or enforcement of the remainder of this agreement, and the part or provision affected shall be curtailed or altered only to the minimum extent necessary to make it conform to the applicable law.

BANK REFERENCES Antiquorum USA Inc. Commerce Bank 469 7th Avenue, New York, NY 10018 A/C: 7924007797 ABA: 026013673 / SWIFT CODE: CBNAUS33

8:21

Pagina 1

{Antiquorum’s New Grading System for Timepieces, Spring 2008

Antiquorum Grading System for Timepieces & Experts’ Overall Opinion

GENERAL REMARKS 1 : as new

2 : in perfect condition

3 : very good

(C) CASE

(D) DIAL

DETAILS 6 patinated 7 slightly oxydized 8 oxydized 9 slightly scratched 10 scratched 11 deeply scratched 12 a dent 13 2 dents 14 multiple dents 15 slightly worn 16 worn 17 very worn 18 repolished edges preserved 19 repolished edges altered 20 back threading damaged 21 period original 22 later original 23 period 24 later 25 custom-made 26 replacements 27 lacking elements 28 transformations 29 alterations 30 damaged 31 very damaged 32 restored by the manufacturer 33 slightly restored 34 restorations 35 worn pushpiece 36 worn pushpieces 37 replaced pushpieces 38 later original crown 39 period crown 40 to be restored 41 partially re-gilt 42 re-gilt 43 bow replaced 44 hinge worn 45 hinge restored 46 renumbered ENAMEL AND VARIOUS TYPES OF DECORATION 47 hairline 48 2 hairlines 49 multiple hairlines 50 slightly scratched 51 scratched 52 slightly worn 53 worn 54 very worn 55 very slightly chipped 56 chipped 57 damaged 58 very damaged 59 slight restoration (hard enamel) 60 restored (hard enamel) 61 slight restoration (soft enamel) 62 restored (soft enamel) 63 period original 64 later original 65 period 66 later 67 custom-made 68 to be restored 69 pearl missing 70 pearls missing 71 paste stone missing 72 paste stones missing 73 precious stone missing 74 precious stones missing 75 outer overglaze

METALLIC DIAL DETAILS 6 patinated 7 slightly oxydized 8 oxydized 9 slightly scratched 10 scratched 11 deeply scratched 12 a dent 13 2 dents 14 multiple dents 15 spotted 16 slightly worn 17 worn 18 very worn 19 damaged 20 refreshed 21 soft overglazed 22 slightly restored 23 restored by the manufacturer 24 restorations 25 partly rubbed 26 very well reprinted by the manufacturer 27 partially reprinted 28 very well reprinted 29 well reprinted 30 reprinted 31 luminous reprinted 32 alterations 33 period, original 34 later original 35 period 36 later 37 custom-made 38 to be restored ENAMEL DIAL DETAILS 39 slightly oxydized 40 slightly scratched 41 scratched 42 deeply scratched 43 hairline 44 two hairlines 45 multiple hairlines 46 chip(s) or hairline(s) under bezel, not visible when closed 47 hairline, subsidiary dial 48 hairlines, subsidiary dial 49 chipped subsidiary dial 50 hairline(s) barely visible 51 slightly worn 52 worn 53 very slightly chipped 54 chipped, winding aperture 55 chipped 56 damaged 57 slightly restored 58 restored by the manufacturer 59 restorations 60 soft overglazed 61 partly rubbed 62 alterations 63 period, original 64 later original 65 period 66 later 67 custom-made 68 to be restored HANDS 01 original 02 replaced by the manufacturer 03 later original 04 partially replaced 05 period 06 later 07 repaired 08 damaged 09 new luminous

4 : good

5 : fair

(M) MOVEMENT 6 7 8 9 10 11 ed 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37

DETAILS patinated slightly oxydized oxydized slightly scratched scratched plating slightly deteriorat-

plating deteriorated rusted a dent dents replacements lacking elements later escapement upgraded later balance transformations alterations damaged very damaged restored by the manufacturer slightly restored restorations inscription rubbed re-rhodiumed re-gilt period, original later original period later custom-made to be overhauled to be restored - a. cleaned - b. minor - c. major - d. broken staff * overhaul recommended (at buyer’s expense) ** overhaul required (at buyer’s expense)

With a view to always providing a higher standard of service to its clientele, Antiquorum has introduced a grading system within its auction catalogues, providing immediate and detailed information on the condition of each lot offered for sale. With the assistance of the Antiquorum Grading System, clients will have immediate answers to their questions regarding the condition of each lot, and will no longer need to find the time to request condition reports. In addition, with the Experts’ Overall Opinion, clients will benefit from the advice of Antiquorum’s experts as each lot is given a grade based on its overall appreciation. Although every effort has been made to remain objective, clients are nonetheless advised that any grading or condition report will, of necessity, be subjective. Clients are reminded that all statements made in the Antiquorum Grading System, in the Experts’ Overall Opinion or in any other condition report for any lot, are provided for information only and should not be considered as a guarantee of any sort. Such information is given as an opinion for which Antiquorum cannot be held responsible. Furthermore, Antiquorum cannot be held responsible for any misrepresentations or incomplete information regarding the condition of any lot.

GRADING SYSTEM GUIDE The lots described in this catalogue have been carefully examined and valued by Antiquorum’s experts and watchmakers, taking into consideration the aesthetical, historical and technical interest, age and rarity, as well as the technology available at the time of production of each timepiece. For such judgment to be as objective as possible, it must rest on a number of criteria, particularly with regards to the age of a lot. Indeed, a wristwatch of less than 50 years old cannot be judged with the same criteria as a Renaissance watch. This is the reason why some of the gradings will only qualify for certain types of watches and will never be used for others. For example, if, as a general rule, watches can be attributed gradings from 1 to 4 for the case, the dial and the movement, watches of less than 100 years old can be given grading 1 (as new), 3 (in very good condition), or 4 (in good condition). The latter, (grading 4), will be followed by one or more grading numbers to justify why the lot cannot be considered “in very good condition”. On the other hand, watches over 100 years old, of similar condition, would indeed be considered as “very good” because of their age and would therefore qualify for grading 3. Needless to say, watches over 100 years old, even in the best state of conservation for their age, are unlikely to ever be considered “as new” and would therefore never be eligible for grading 1; for this reason, we have introduced grading 2 (in perfect condition). At the end of each lot description, before the estimate, you will find a condition report box, with letters and numbers, divided into 3 sections: these are the grades given to the lot with reference to the condition of its case, its dial and hands, and its movement. To understand the grades shown in the condition report box, consult the Antiquorum Grading System as follows:

EXPERTS’ OVERALL OPINION GENERAL CONDITION, QUALITY, TECHNICAL AND HISTORICAL INTEREST, AGE AND RARITY

:

AAA :

Exceptional Excellent

C for the case, followed by one or more numbers = condition of case D for the dial (& hands), followed by one or more numbers = condition of dial & hands M for the movement, followed by one or more numbers = condition of movement Next to this condition report box, is an experts’ grading box featuring one letter, from to B, as an overall grade. This overall grade is the opinion of Antiquorum’s experts, as a global appreciation of the lot, based on its general condition, quality, technical and historical interest, age and rarity. On this basis, it must be understood that a very early timepiece, a prototype or a watch featuring a rare escapement, although it may be in a mediocre state of conservation, even re-cased or lacking its dial, can qualify for gradings AAA or even . To understand the grade shown in the experts’ grading box, consult the Experts’ Overall Opinion.

AA

:

Very Good

A

:

Good

B

:

Fair

See example below:

C

1

D

1 - 01

M

1 Experts’ overall opinion: Exceptional Movement: as new

Dial: as new - original hands Case: as new Potential buyers should be aware that all water-resistant/water-proof watches have been opened and as such buyers should have the watch inspected in regards to these attribute. A watches current state or resistance is NOT reflected in the condition report.

For the Grading System, open this inside flap

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Pagina 1

{Antiquorum’s New Grading System for Timepieces, Spring 2008

Antiquorum Grading System for Timepieces & Experts’ Overall Opinion

GENERAL REMARKS 1 : as new

2 : in perfect condition

3 : very good

(C) CASE

(D) DIAL

DETAILS 6 patinated 7 slightly oxydized 8 oxydized 9 slightly scratched 10 scratched 11 deeply scratched 12 a dent 13 2 dents 14 multiple dents 15 slightly worn 16 worn 17 very worn 18 repolished edges preserved 19 repolished edges altered 20 back threading damaged 21 period original 22 later original 23 period 24 later 25 custom-made 26 replacements 27 lacking elements 28 transformations 29 alterations 30 damaged 31 very damaged 32 restored by the manufacturer 33 slightly restored 34 restorations 35 worn pushpiece 36 worn pushpieces 37 replaced pushpieces 38 later original crown 39 period crown 40 to be restored 41 partially re-gilt 42 re-gilt 43 bow replaced 44 hinge worn 45 hinge restored 46 renumbered ENAMEL AND VARIOUS TYPES OF DECORATION 47 hairline 48 2 hairlines 49 multiple hairlines 50 slightly scratched 51 scratched 52 slightly worn 53 worn 54 very worn 55 very slightly chipped 56 chipped 57 damaged 58 very damaged 59 slight restoration (hard enamel) 60 restored (hard enamel) 61 slight restoration (soft enamel) 62 restored (soft enamel) 63 period original 64 later original 65 period 66 later 67 custom-made 68 to be restored 69 pearl missing 70 pearls missing 71 paste stone missing 72 paste stones missing 73 precious stone missing 74 precious stones missing 75 outer overglaze

METALLIC DIAL DETAILS 6 patinated 7 slightly oxydized 8 oxydized 9 slightly scratched 10 scratched 11 deeply scratched 12 a dent 13 2 dents 14 multiple dents 15 spotted 16 slightly worn 17 worn 18 very worn 19 damaged 20 refreshed 21 soft overglazed 22 slightly restored 23 restored by the manufacturer 24 restorations 25 partly rubbed 26 very well reprinted by the manufacturer 27 partially reprinted 28 very well reprinted 29 well reprinted 30 reprinted 31 luminous reprinted 32 alterations 33 period, original 34 later original 35 period 36 later 37 custom-made 38 to be restored ENAMEL DIAL DETAILS 39 slightly oxydized 40 slightly scratched 41 scratched 42 deeply scratched 43 hairline 44 two hairlines 45 multiple hairlines 46 chip(s) or hairline(s) under bezel, not visible when closed 47 hairline, subsidiary dial 48 hairlines, subsidiary dial 49 chipped subsidiary dial 50 hairline(s) barely visible 51 slightly worn 52 worn 53 very slightly chipped 54 chipped, winding aperture 55 chipped 56 damaged 57 slightly restored 58 restored by the manufacturer 59 restorations 60 soft overglazed 61 partly rubbed 62 alterations 63 period, original 64 later original 65 period 66 later 67 custom-made 68 to be restored HANDS 01 original 02 replaced by the manufacturer 03 later original 04 partially replaced 05 period 06 later 07 repaired 08 damaged 09 new luminous

4 : good

5 : fair

(M) MOVEMENT 6 7 8 9 10 11 ed 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37

DETAILS patinated slightly oxydized oxydized slightly scratched scratched plating slightly deteriorat-

plating deteriorated rusted a dent dents replacements lacking elements later escapement upgraded later balance transformations alterations damaged very damaged restored by the manufacturer slightly restored restorations inscription rubbed re-rhodiumed re-gilt period, original later original period later custom-made to be overhauled to be restored - a. cleaned - b. minor - c. major - d. broken staff * overhaul recommended (at buyer’s expense) ** overhaul required (at buyer’s expense)

With a view to always providing a higher standard of service to its clientele, Antiquorum has introduced a grading system within its auction catalogues, providing immediate and detailed information on the condition of each lot offered for sale. With the assistance of the Antiquorum Grading System, clients will have immediate answers to their questions regarding the condition of each lot, and will no longer need to find the time to request condition reports. In addition, with the Experts’ Overall Opinion, clients will benefit from the advice of Antiquorum’s experts as each lot is given a grade based on its overall appreciation. Although every effort has been made to remain objective, clients are nonetheless advised that any grading or condition report will, of necessity, be subjective. Clients are reminded that all statements made in the Antiquorum Grading System, in the Experts’ Overall Opinion or in any other condition report for any lot, are provided for information only and should not be considered as a guarantee of any sort. Such information is given as an opinion for which Antiquorum cannot be held responsible. Furthermore, Antiquorum cannot be held responsible for any misrepresentations or incomplete information regarding the condition of any lot.

GRADING SYSTEM GUIDE The lots described in this catalogue have been carefully examined and valued by Antiquorum’s experts and watchmakers, taking into consideration the aesthetical, historical and technical interest, age and rarity, as well as the technology available at the time of production of each timepiece. For such judgment to be as objective as possible, it must rest on a number of criteria, particularly with regards to the age of a lot. Indeed, a wristwatch of less than 50 years old cannot be judged with the same criteria as a Renaissance watch. This is the reason why some of the gradings will only qualify for certain types of watches and will never be used for others. For example, if, as a general rule, watches can be attributed gradings from 1 to 4 for the case, the dial and the movement, watches of less than 100 years old can be given grading 1 (as new), 3 (in very good condition), or 4 (in good condition). The latter, (grading 4), will be followed by one or more grading numbers to justify why the lot cannot be considered “in very good condition”. On the other hand, watches over 100 years old, of similar condition, would indeed be considered as “very good” because of their age and would therefore qualify for grading 3. Needless to say, watches over 100 years old, even in the best state of conservation for their age, are unlikely to ever be considered “as new” and would therefore never be eligible for grading 1; for this reason, we have introduced grading 2 (in perfect condition). At the end of each lot description, before the estimate, you will find a condition report box, with letters and numbers, divided into 3 sections: these are the grades given to the lot with reference to the condition of its case, its dial and hands, and its movement. To understand the grades shown in the condition report box, consult the Antiquorum Grading System as follows:

EXPERTS’ OVERALL OPINION GENERAL CONDITION, QUALITY, TECHNICAL AND HISTORICAL INTEREST, AGE AND RARITY

:

AAA :

Exceptional Excellent

C for the case, followed by one or more numbers = condition of case D for the dial (& hands), followed by one or more numbers = condition of dial & hands M for the movement, followed by one or more numbers = condition of movement Next to this condition report box, is an experts’ grading box featuring one letter, from to B, as an overall grade. This overall grade is the opinion of Antiquorum’s experts, as a global appreciation of the lot, based on its general condition, quality, technical and historical interest, age and rarity. On this basis, it must be understood that a very early timepiece, a prototype or a watch featuring a rare escapement, although it may be in a mediocre state of conservation, even re-cased or lacking its dial, can qualify for gradings AAA or even . To understand the grade shown in the experts’ grading box, consult the Experts’ Overall Opinion.

AA

:

Very Good

A

:

Good

B

:

Fair

See example below:

C

1

D

1 - 01

M

1 Experts’ overall opinion: Exceptional Movement: as new

Dial: as new - original hands Case: as new Potential buyers should be aware that all water-resistant/water-proof watches have been opened and as such buyers should have the watch inspected in regards to these attribute. A watches current state or resistance is NOT reflected in the condition report.

For the Grading System, open this inside flap

07/03/08

{

Retro_COVER_NY_04-08

2008

Auction Calendar The deadline for inclusion in non-thematic sales is 45 days prior to each sale.

GENEVA, 10 & 11 MAY The Collection of a European Nobleman

HONG KONG, 7 JUNE Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches & Clocks

NEW YORK, 18 JUNE Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches & Clocks

GENEVA, 20 & 21 SEPTEMBER Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches & Clocks

NEW YORK, 16 OCTOBER Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches & Clocks

GENEVA, 15 & 16 NOVEMBER Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches & Clocks

NEW YORK, 10 DECEMBER Important Collectors' Wristwatches, Pocket Watches & Clocks

Please note that these dates may be subject to change.

SALES CENTERS SWITZERLAND

USA

Antiquorum Showroom and Administration 2, rue du Mont-Blanc, 1211 Geneva 1 Tel. +41 (0)22 909 28 50 Fax. +41 (0)22 909 28 60 Email: [email protected]

Antiquorum USA, Inc. Showroom and Administration The Fuller Building, 595 Madison Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10022 Tel. +1 212 - 750 1103 Fax. +1 212 - 750 6127 Email: [email protected]

HONG KONG Antiquorum Auctioneers (HK) Ltd. Showroom and Administration Suite 1405, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong Tel. +852 2522 4168 Fax. +852 2522 4138 Email: [email protected]

REPRESENTATIVE OFFICES FRANCE

GERMANY

Antiquorum Paris 6, rue de la Michodière, 75002 Paris Tel. +33 1 - 42 60 38 66 Fax. +33 1 - 42 60 19 00 Email: [email protected]

Antiquorum Munich Ohmstrasse, 15 80802, München, Tel. +49 89 46 13 96 80 Fax. +49 89 46 13 96 81 Email: [email protected]

ITALY

UNITED KINGDOM

Antiquorum Milan Piazza Duomo, 21, 20121 Milano Tel. +39 02 - 87 66 25 Fax. +39 02 - 87 79 15 Email: [email protected]

Antiquorum London 30 Old Bond Street, London, W1S 4QQ Tel. +44 207 495 72 74 Fax. +44 207 495 72 75 Email: [email protected]

ITALY, POLAND & CZECH REPUBLIC Piazza Duomo, 21, 20121 Milano Tel. +39 335 - 35 34 35 Fax. +39 02 - 5810 3925 Email: [email protected]

CHINA Antiquorum Shanghai Room 4106B, Bund Center Office Tower, 222 Yan An Road East, Shanghai 200002 Tel. +86 21 6335 1268 Fax. +86 21 6335 1270 Email: [email protected]

RUSSIA

JAPAN

Antiquorum Moscow 000 Chronolux, 123001, Moscow Centre “Bronnaya Plaza” Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 32 str.1 Tel. +7 495 937 - 7252 Fax. +7 495 - 937 - 7251 Email: [email protected]

Antiquorum Japan, Inc. 1 & 2 F, Izumiya Bldg., 2-8 Jinbou-cho, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 101-0051, Japan Tel: +81-3-3239-8515 Fax: +81-3-3239-8516 www.antiquorum-japan.com Email: [email protected]

AQ Rolex Revolution 2008

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