THE WEAVER’S
Inkle Inkl e Pat Pattern tern Director Directory y ANNE DIXON
4 0 0 0 0
w ar p-f ace d w eav es
Warping Originally the modern inkle loom would have been warped with one continuous single-color thread, alternately passing the warp thread over and then under the top peg and tying the end o the last pass onto the beginning o the warp. The main disadvantage o a single continuous warp is that the warp tends to become tighter with each successive wind, even when heddles are added (or threaded through) during warping. Sometimes people like to emulate the continuous warping, even when using dierent colors—either tying on the new color at each change, or wrapping the ends o the warp threads around dierent nails near the ront o the loom, unwrapping to continue with that color when next needed, and again tying all ends to the beginnings o the warp colors. When several dierent colors or threads are used or warping the extra tying-on or securing/releasing o each new yarn, the entanglements that can ensue (resulting in crossed threads at the end o the warp), plus the tensioning problems, hardly justiy strict adherence to the “original” method. The ollowing method seeks to eradicate the disadvantages and is at least just as ast as tying-in the dierent threads, plus it is always easy to see exactly where to place the heddle. See page 15 or tying a knot by yoursel. These instructions assume that the frst and last warp thread is a heddled thread. •Iftherstwarpthreadisunheddled, start at 2 (a or b). •Ifthelastwarpthreadisunheddled,nish with a single warp thread under the top peg.
Loom with Heddles
1.
Warp the frst thread over the top peg, along the chosen pathway, push the thread to the rame o the loom at all points, cut o and tie securely with two or three knots. Place a heddle over the heddle peg, take the loop behind the warp thread, back down and loop over the heddle peg, with the knots under the peg.
2a. Ifthenexttwowarpthreadsarethesame,rst
wind one pathway under the top peg, then continue with the next over the top peg: push both warp threads to the rame o the loom at all points and tie as above. Place a heddle on the last (over peg) warp thread. 2b. Ifthenexttwowarpthreadsaredierent,then hold both threads together and take in their correct pathway around the loom, placing the frst (unheddled) thread under and the second (heddled) thread over the top peg. Push both warp threads to the rame o the loom at all points, and tie together as above. Place a heddleonthelastwarpthread.Ifyoundthat the heddled thread is always too tight, tie the beginnings o the warp threads together and at the fnish place one thread through the loop above the beginning knot and then tie the ends o the two threads together.
Repeat using either 2a or 2b. Adding heddles as you go along is ar quicker and more accurate. Warping only two threads at a time helps to reduce the tendency or the warp to tighten.
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the weaver’s inkle pattern directory
Minimum and Maximum Length The warp on any inkle loom has a possible minimum and maximum length, with variations between the two. The minimum length or any warp is rom the starting peg, to the joining peg, around the tensioner, and back to the starting peg, without interering with the heddle peg. The maximum length winds zigzag around the tensioner and all the pegs on the loom, without interering with any o the other pegs or the pathway o the warp.
time). Weave both the tail and the shuttle into this next shed, then change the shed and continue weaving.Thetailofthewewillremainsecureandcanbe trimmed later.
Finishing Atthepenultimatepick,weavethewethrougha shed, and into the SAME pick insert a loop o smooth thread with the loop at the opposite side to the shuttle.
Change the shed, beat, and tug. Weave the shuttle through this fnal pick.
Starting and Finishing Iftheendsoftheweareleloose,thentheedgesof the inkle will move outward when it is removed rom the loom, making the selvedges uneven. So a secure start and fnish is best.
Cutthewe,leavingabout8"(20cm).Insertthevery end o this tail into the loop—not too ar—so that it creates a loop clasped with the frst.
Now, holding both loops gently in opposite hands, pull the clasped loops through the shed, positioning theupper(nal)weintoplace,andpullingthewe completely through the previous pick.
Starting
Again, change the shed and beat.
Open one o the sheds—it doesn’t matter which—and insert a shed stick. Change the shed, push the frst shed stick down to the starting peg and inser t a second stick. Repeat so that there are three shed sticks in place. Change the shed once more.
Discardtheextraloopofthread.Thewewillremain secure and can be trimmed later. This saves having to darntheweintoplaceaertheinklehasbeencut o the loom and is extremely secure.
Inserttheshuttlethroughtheopenshed(fromtheside thatsuitsyou)andleaveatailofthewehangingatthe side. Change the shed, beat and tug (both edges this
There is no need to secure the ends o the inkle any urther when the inkle is removed rom the loom, but sometimes a decorative or braided edging is required. Remember to leave enough unwoven warp—generally braiding uses about 1½ times the fnished length. See page 27 or urther inormation.
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Vertical Lines
Even Single & Double
Triple
H
H
U
U x3
x3
x3
Warp: 3x2/16, dark green and pale blue
Warp: 3x2/16, dark green and pale blue
Wef: pale blue 3x2/16
Wef: pale blue 3x2/16
All lines curve the same way
All lines curve the same way
Single & Double: In Opposition
Triple: In Opposition
H
H
U
U x3
cont’d
x3 x2
x2
x2
x2
Warp: 3x2/16, pale blue and dark green
Warp: 3x2/16, dark green and pale blue Wef: pale blue 3x2/16
Wef: pale blue 3x2/16, pale blue
Lines curve the opposite way to the adjacent line Lines curve the opposite way to the adjacent line
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the weaver’s inkle pattern directory
Runic
Runic 1
Runic 2
H
H
U
U x2
x27
x3
x2
x26
x3
Warp: 2/16, border pale blue multicolor where shown as orange
Warp: 2/16, border brown striped red and orange where shown as red
Bar: brown
Bar: cream
Wef: 2/16, pale blue
Wef: 2/16, brown
Alternate single Y shape and inverse
Alternating 3xY and inverse
Length o upright (loat) always 16 pick-up
Random lengths
Alternating 2xY and inverse Random lengths Y shape and extra short lengths Random
‘Sunrise, Sunset’ pattern completely random
reverse of sample
Includesshortlengthsandgaps
Random
reverse of sample
For Runic technique, see page 35. 5
Repp Weave
Repp 1
A H U
x3
x16
x3
Single Insertion Method
Cross-Over Method
Warp: 2/16, dark green and cream
Thin Wef: 2/16, dark green
Thin Wef: 2/16, dark green
Thick Wefs: 2 shuttles each wound with 2 strands 3x2/16, dark green.
Thick Wef: 4 strands dark green 3x2/16 wound onto one shuttle A.Alternatethickwewiththinwe, weavingathinweintoallsheds.To change color order in blocks, throw 2thickwesor2thinwesin succession.
B
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the weaver’s inkle pattern directory
B.Alternatethickweswiththinwe, weavingathinweintoallsheds.Forthick we,takeboththickshuttlesthroughthe shed, starting them rom opposite sides. To change color order in blocks, throw 2 thick wesor2thinwesinsuccession.
Pick-up, Pairs, Unheddled
Pick-up 1
A A
H
x3
x14
↑ Repeat
x3
B
B
G
Balance
U
Balance
H
Balance ↑ Repeat
Warp: 2/16 navy and lime green Wef: 2/16 lime green
Pick-up 2
G
H C ↑ Repeat
C
Balance
I
↑ Repeat
I
↑ Repeat
D
Balance
D ↑ Repeat
J J
↑ Repeat
E
E
Balance
↑ Repeat
F
Balance
K
↑ Repeat
K
F
↑ Repeat
For Pick-up technique, see page 47.
↑ Repeat
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Contents Foreword by Madelyn van der Hoogt
Introduction About This Book Basic Equipment Basic Techniques Pattern Directory Basic warp color patterns Warp manipulation Pick-Up Lettering: Compensating Runic Lettering on Checks Baltic-Style South American Pebbles Monk’s Belt Krokbragd
Warp changes Additions to warp surface Auxiliary Warp Threads Scribbling Embroidery Soumak and Loops Turkish and Other Knots
Insertedauxiliary thread manipulation Gathering and Pleating Scrunching and Shibori
Wefmanipulation Dukagang Inlay
Selvedge treatments Beads Fancy Yarns ClaspedWefsand Cross-overs Tablet Edging Fringes
Width of inkle Finishings
Charts for Designing Your Own Inkles
Glossary Resources Credits Index
More Than 400 Patterns or Weaving Enthusiasts From highly praised author and expert weaver Anne Dixon comes the ultimate resource or inkle weavers. Anne Dixon weaves, lectures, and teaches throughout the United Kingdom and abroad. She is the author o The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory (Interweave),and has published booklets on inkle weaving,
contributed articles to a number o publications, including Handwoven magazine, and exhibited both in the United Kingdom and the United States. She is a guild member o the Association o Weavers, Spinners, and Dyers and a ounding member o The Braid Society.
Hardcover with concealed wire-o 7 ½ x 9½, 176 pages ISBN978-1-59668-647-2
$29.95 Available June 2012
