How to treat Drafting Damp
Men's Pants Pattern
www.saf e ua… Free 19-page Seam allowance is incl ncluded uded . It is 0.60 cm (0.25 ") guide to "Risin "Risi ng Damp and itsDr af af ting ting the men' s pants f r ront o nt patter n. n. Control."
On a long piece of paper about 120.40 cm long and 115.60 cm wide, draw a line down the th e middle. Near the top, select a point and mark mark point 0 . From 0 down to 1 is 107.40 cm . From 1 up measure measure up 77.00 cm to 2 . 3 is midway between between 1 and 2 ( 38.50 cm ). 4 fr from om 3 is 5.20 cm (2.00 ") . Square out from points poi nts 0 , 2 , 4 , and 1 . 5 fr from om 2 is 18.18 cm . 6 fr from om 2 is 8.33 cm 7 fr from om 2 is 8.33 cm Square up from from 6 to locate 8 on line 0 Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6 10 from 9 is 0.60 cm (0.25 ") Draw line 8 - 10 . 11 from 10 is 25.00 cm cm 12 from 8 is 23.80 cm 13 and 14 fr from om 4 is 12.00 cm cm 15 and 16 fr from om 1 is 12.00 cm cm 17 from 1 is 5.20 cm (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this measurement). Square out from 17 . The waist line form form 8 is squared squared by line 8 10 until it is about 0.60 cm (0.25 ") below line 8 - 12 . Then it curves gently into 12 . The fly fall (front (front rise) follows t he str st raight line 8 - 10 and then makes a shallow cur curve ve into 5 . Through 11 the outseam is ver vertical tical from from about 2.60 cm (1.00 ") above to 1.30 cm (0.50 ") below. Continue upward, curving curving into 12 . Shape the leg, making the inseam and outse ou tseam am ver vertical tical from the the bottom bott om to at l east 5.20 cm (2.00 ") above 15 and 16 and identicall to each other fr identica from om the bottom to the knee. Above the knee the inseam is a natural natur al continuation, continuation, waiting waiti ng until until al most the
top to curve into 5 . The outseam also continues naturally above 14 , easing outward to meet the continuation downward from 11 . Add notches (for assembly) at the following points: 0
, 14 , 16 , 15 , and 13 . In the outseam, 3.90 cm (1.50 ") below the waist edge, and again 16.25 cm (6.25 ") below that (for the front pockets). In the fly fall about 3.90 cm (1.50 ") to 6.50 cm (2.50 ") from the inseam: Put the zero end of the tape measure 0.97 cm (0.38 ") below the waist edge and measure along the fly fall 0.60 cm (0.25 ") in from the pattern outline. Cut the fly notch at the nearest whole inch, and that will be the length of your pants zipper.
Drafting the pattern back guide . The pattern back guide is used to determine the slope of the back pattern piece. Draw horizontal lines 0 , 7 , and 2 the same distance apart as on the pattern front. Near the right on line 2 mark point A . B from A is 30.20 cm Square up from A and B to locate C and D on line 0 . E from B is 26.40 cm The distance between E and A should be 3.80 cm F from C is 1.90 cm G from D is 1.90 cm Draw line A - F and locate point X where it crosses the horizontal line 7 . H from F is 11.70 cm (4.50 ") From H square down 6.50 cm (2.50 ") to locate J . K and L are each 0.60 cm (0.25 ") from H . Draw lines J - K and J - L (back dart). Draw line B - G and extend it 0.30 cm (0.12 ") to M .
From M square out to 0.30 cm (0.12 ") below the horizontal line 0 ; then curve gradually into K . From L to F draw a curve that dips 0.30 cm (0.12 ") below the straight line. Extend the straight lines M - B and F - A to several inches below line A - B , and cut out the pattern back guide along the curved lines M - K and L - F . Cut out the vee for the back dart, all the way to J .
Dr af ting the pants back patter n. For the back pattern, use a piece of paper about 141.20 cm long and 131.20 cm wide, draw a line down the middle. Lay the front pattern piece on the paper, lining up the 0 - 1 line of the front with the line on the paper, and draw around it. Indicate notches and points 10 and 11 . Take away the front piece and label points 5 , 13 , 14 , 15 , and 16 . Draw line 10 - 11 and extend it to the right. 18 from 11 is 5.20 cm (2.00 ") Place point X on the patter n back guide on point 18 on the paper. Using the common point as a pivot, swing the guide up until side M - B touches point 10 on the paper. Draw around the guide above 10 and 18 ( X ). Label M and F . 19 and 20 are 1.30 cm (0.50 ") from 13 and 14 . 21 and 22 are 1.30 cm (0.50 ") from 15 and 16 . 23 from 5 is 5.17 cm , that is, half of the distance from 7 to 2 plus 1.00 cm (0.38 ") . 23 from 19 is the same as 5 from 13 . The seat seam (back rise) follows the straight line M - 10 , becomes a shallow curve just outside the 10 - 5 curve of the front, and runs through 5 into 23 , finishing up straight for about the last 2.60 cm (1.00 ") . From the bottom to the knee the inseam
lies 1.30 cm (0.50 ") outside the front outline. Above the knee it continues naturally, doing most of its curving into 23 near the top. The outseam too is 1.30 cm (0.50 ") outside the front outline from the bott om to just above the knee. Then it eases outward to pass through 18 and curve just outside the F - 18 line into F . The bottom is in line with that of the front. Cut out the pattern back, and cut knee and bottom notches.
NOTES:
The seam all owance is 0.60 cm (0.25 ") The 3.90 cm (1.50 ") that was subtracted when applying the outseam measurement (line 0 - 1 ) represents the finished width of the waistband. It would seem that no seam was allowed for here, but note that line 12 - 11 - 14 - 16 is curved, not straight, and thus is actually greater than the outseam. The seam allowance is included in this curvature. This also makes t he outseam on the front piece s lightly shorter than the outseam in the back piece. This is a refinement found in custom-tailored pants. The outseam seam on the pants back is to be eased between about mid-thigh to about mid-calf, making the pants leg curving imperceptibly forward at the bottom. It was i n locating point 18 that both seam allowance and ease are incorporated. Lines 10 - 11 on the front and 10 - 18 on the back together measure half the seat measurement plus 5.20 cm (2.00 ") . Only very tight pants need provision for dress . The term refers to the side toward which a man places his intimate parts. A man is said to "dress right" or "dress left". Most men dress left. Dress is allowed for by deflecting the fly seam away from the side toward which the man dresses. The fork of one pants front, usually the right, is reduced by about 1.30 cm (0.50 ")
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