NO. 66
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.95
VVM.ILLSHELF........__. 1iI~:HOW TO CUT DOVETAILS
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No. 66
EDITOR'S
December 1989
COLUMN
Sawdust EdItor Donald B. Peschke DeSlgO Director Ted Kralicek MaoagingEdtlo' Douglas l. Hicks AssiSlanlEdtlots Douglas M. Lidster Kent A. Buckton Terry J. Sll'ohman PrOJeCI Designer Ken Munkel Ted\nOCaJ IlIuslratOfSDavid Kreyling Cary Christensen RodStoakes Chris Glowacki Cuslomerservee Linda Morrow, Mgr. Lisa Thompson PtoJeCI SUWllos Leslie Ann Gearhart Controller Paul E. Gray Compu\erOperat""'S Ken Miner AdministrativeAssts. Cheryl Scott SandyBaum Souroebool< Jean Carey _ing ShOws Steve Curtis BuildingMaintenance Archie Krause
WOODSMITH STORES GeneralManager Steve Krohmer Marl
2
O
ne oflhe most popular projects we've drawers, But it'salso ajoim that manywoodever shown in ~Vooc1s"tit" is the workers tend to shy away from. Too compliEuropean-style workbench featured about cared. Requires 100 much precision. three years ago (in 1I'0000»lilli No. 50). Irs Okay, let's face it. ii a joint requires using quite a bench. And probably exactly what hand tools (like a back saw and asetofsharp most woodworkers have in mind as the cen- chisels). more than likely we'lI find a differter of their shop, entjoinl, ... Ora different way to make iL But that bench is quite an undertaking to Iryou don'l want to U$<1 hand toolsto make build. Don't get me wrong, Ithink it's well dovetails, your options are limited. There worth the effort. Rut it's certainly not a are several dovetail jigs on the market that weekend project. cut through doveradswith a router. But they We wanted 10 come up with another lend 10 be expensive, bench. One U,at was easy to build. sturdy, Another way is to use a band saw.That's and would serve you well over the yearsthe basis for the technique shown in Ihis even ifit isn'taclassic European-stylebench. issue. Aculally. it all started wilh a friend of Every time we sat down 10 design this mine, Mark Duginske. For many years simple bench. we ran into the problem of Mark has been a representative of mCA design overload. It's a problem common La machinery, He works at many of the woodmany projects. Once you gel started. you working shows across the countryand gives want to add a feature, and add a feature, and seminars 00 worldngwith a band saw. add a feature. Soon thesimple bench iscomPeriodically Mark stops by our shop to plicalcd. We finally decided to limit Ibe de- talk about a new technique he's developed sign by Slitting three basic criterla. for the band saw. The one I found most inFirst.the base (legs) had 10 be buill cut of triguing was his method for cuuing easy-to-obtaiu construclion lumber. (We dovetails. built the base out orlir 2x4·s). The basic technique involves using two Second. Uwjoinery used for the base had jigs. one 10 cut the tails and one to CUi the to be basic, not something like wedged mor- pins (lhe two interlocking partsof a dovetail lise and tenens, 0A'e used very simple ver- joint).!n general. it'seasy 10gel rnyattention sions oflap joints and butt jQints.) with .almost any jig, bUL Mark's technique And third, the lOP had to be easy to con- and jigs are particularly interesting. struct and nOI too expensive. (We chose a When cutting dovetails. jigs make it easy solid-core door. but you CQuiduse IWO layers to make repealed. accurate cutsat the angle of plywood) needed (or bOtll paris of the dovetail joint. What we wound up with is a good solid However. that's not what got my attention bench that can be builtin a weekend and will about Mark's technique. The jig he devised probably lasta lifetime. Buti£you havea little noronlysets the angle. butalso sets thespacing ofe.eh cut. Ily spacing. I mean aligning time left over. YOIl can add afew features. Firsf on our lisl was a set of drawers. You the cut to a precise point. And in the case of can add tile three simple drawers shown in dovetalls, spacing isequaily as criticalas the this Issue. Or.you canbuild a moreelaborate angle. storage unit like tile one on the European· TIle spacing is usually determined by style bench. In fact the base WlIS sized for making a pencil line. BUL pencil lines are not this storage unit if you want to add it later. very precise. So. how does Mark solve the (Refer to Woo(bnnjtit No. 50.) problem of precise alignment? With spacer As for vises. we've Iisted a group of vises blocks, Nothing new, but in combination that could be used on this bench, see with the angte jigs. they produce accurate Sources on page 24. 'These are basic wood- cutsoverand over again. with no guesswork. working vises that mountto the front of the IVhalab()ulalllhe othertechniques Mark bench. You could gel a Iiltle more function told us about? Il'eli. he decided 10 write. out of the bench by adding a dog row and a book. 1'116 Band Saw Handbook. II just tail vise at the end of the bench. came out and Mark is pretty excited about it OGVF;rAII.s. Just as a good workbench is - a three-month project that took twO years the cornerstone of a shop.there.are certain 10complete. 0 know how he feels.) lt'sfilled joints thai are hallmarks of woodworking. wilh bis experience of many years of work The one that comes to mind first is the jng with band saws. dovetailjoinL NE>.'TtS$u£.1l1enext.issue of 1¥ood8millt This classic joint is great for all sorts of (No. 67) win be mailed during' the week of cabinetwork, and particularly for making February 12. 1990. W,xxlsmilh
No. 66
F_R_O.:..__M __
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°°
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D W
R K E R S
Tips & Techniques SIMPLER RESAWING
ROUTER TABLE/WORKBENCH
In lVoodsllIith :>:0, 63 you showed two techniques for resawing' thick boards into Ihin lumber: one for the labl,' saw and the other for the band "'w.1 use a hybrid method that combines both of these techniques.
edge, or Ih,' board with CUIS IvO'found yet another use for my about 11.," ekep, see inset draw- 1V000Is,mlh router table: I use il ing. Then. to flnish resawing ,'S 3 workbench 10 t~mlx>r(lrily Ihe board all tht' way through, I hold benchtoprools like I,'Tilld,'rs switch 10 the band saw. S<'(' and scroll saws. (M y shop is drawing. TIw scored cui lines small. and I don't have on each t'CiR<'of the board act Ihe space to permanemlv mount these .'guidl'S for the band tools Onit bench.) CUT '.saw blade. .... ON Try 10 nil down the F'ir~l. mount each 1OTl4,(NOS side of the scored line tool onto its own 'u< closely as possible, Since the kerfleft by ba",,~ for all LIte tools base.I size. To tlu- table saw blade is wood one uniform wider Ihan the band make each base, I cut saw blade, this gives ~."·thkk plywood , youa-guide-tomake Ih.. '-3Jl1(' width as the lOp of the router lable Ih,' final ClIL \\,ilh this method, a (On my table. this is This technique works well with resawing guide on the band saw 30".) Then I drilled boards of almost any width. bUI is not needed since the scored two \1.4" holes in the rl'lIlIy irs useful when resawing lines help control blade d,ifl. plywood. t;y~"in from '--''''''_ boards that an' 100 wide 10 CUI Thisresults ill boardsof uniform each edge. (11",,,", holea must all the way thrnugh on the thickness which means there alilln with the carriage bolts Ihal table saw. will be less final planing needed, hold the router table rente.) To use Ibis method, I first SCi EdSiloff'er Each bench lOP 1001 is Ihen upth .. table saw 10
10the tableu
1 \ ·jry/lllioIJC
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SANDING STRAP
When I'm sanding rounded objccts or working on the lathe, I use a special sanding
,'OO.'11cn fold Ihc ends oflhc tape over the dowels and Slick the I:IIIC down onto ilsclf to hold the
handles in plnce, sec drawing, After securing lhe handles, set a strip of sandpaper on lOP of the sticky surface of the tape. Trim the (~Il:("of the sandpaper 10 the width oCthe duct tape. To use the sanding strap. simply l(rnSp the dowel handles and work the strap back and forth over th~object.
GLUE BRUSH
Ilt-rt"sa solution 10thc' problem of applying glue 10 'mall surfaces such as gro()\'es, rabbets and dadoes - without S(tlling glue on surfaces that are to be stained and finished. I've found that a pcnti~;lylt Jolin BiUe/ Iypc'\mler eraser (tile kind willI St4I~" 1.10l/d.New York Illl' bristles on one end) make. a pcri<~glue brush. TIll' bristk-s can)' an ample amount of glue yN are.til! enough 10~ ... "d lilt' glue t'Vt'niyinto tight spat.."- And 'i_lh"boi~"",syntl,..tic,lh<:y al\' easily washed dean aIIer """.
Also Ihe eraser ea~ily rt-
lXCl$S AlTtR ST'(lONG SANoP...... fO lAPI t~
00WI"t..
SI'2-lQHG
movc' ullwanled
pt'ncll nonrks
len on surfaces to be finish,'Cl. It's more abrasive than a regular eraser so il removes line,; Clukkly and it'st'aSier than sanding. RII8R~1IAbbott I'orl TOllmse'ld. 11'11811 ;nllime
No. 66
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8diwr'8 Nou»
rr yo"r router
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unacn
bf'~I(ltlOp
1001. bi! ;'1.'011"'9 0 11(';' of T1(/(/$ [rum 111#" 41"dt'nfide Of Ihl' labl' or tl, rt'a(l, (I insert» froll~ the lop, TI" II bolt th« pi!I"'OOd bo8r in plat·f.
SHOP BRUSH I keep 3 brush in my shop commocly used by a draftsman, The bristles on this bn,sh are longer
and softer than most shop brushes so il cleans up sawdust around equipment and down in cracks and <'On1C',!I(~aNily. Drafting brushes are available at art supply stores for aboutS5, Sit"I'r French H(~/'4·st4_·r••\~e,(· }'(lrk
SIND IN YOURnps If you'd lil<~10 ~hare a tip with others, 't'nd in your idea to \VOOdsll'ith, 'iii'" & TechniquCts,2200 Grand Ave .•Des ~oiJl("'. Iowa ,>0:112. W~ pay Sl5 ror acce","d tips. !,Iea", >-cndan ~planalion and a ,kelch if nCt'C!ed (...e11 draw il nt'" on<'),
3
Sf-lOP
PROJECT
Workbench Construction lumbe1' and a weekend's work can produce the most used tool in the shop", a workbench, This one features a base made of 2x4's and a solid,core door for a cop,
A
n 1 wanted
was a simple workbench, A bench
Cora more versatile bench, JOIS£RY The end frames of the bench are assembled with lap join IS, Rill. instead of cutting lap joints in the traditional way. I built thern up by laminaring 2x4's together, The uprillhl~ are stacked (laminab-d) in a way 10create "notches" for the crosspieces (braces). refer to the Exploded Vi!'w, This brought up thequestion oftlle besrway 10 laminair Ihe 2)(4's together. I( you have enough clamps. you can glue and claml) them together, Or. you can weekend I began thinking Some drawers sure would glue. and then nail them together. (Here I'd use finish be handy, $0 I added Ihree drawers that are [oiaed nails.) Or. glue and screw them together, together with router-cut dov~tails, Ialso added a slid, There was another question about how to join the ingtray in one drawer to keep things organized, rails (horizontal pieces) to the leW', Ichose a draw-bolt Since I couldn't fit cV~I'}'hing into the drawers. I 'Y'tem that allows you to knock down the bench if you added a ,bel( und"I'II<'ath, Then a woodworking vise ever need to move it in the Cuture, was the linaltouch. The point is this project can be "SII. To protect the bench and keep glue from simple or involved, The basic bench can be pUI to' ,ticking to it. I finished the bench with two coats of gether in a weekend. Oryou can add storage and a vise General Finishes Two-Step OiVu....thane finish.
that was sturdy, had a Iatgt> wock surface, and didn't costa 101,And I wanted 10build it in a weekend, So Salurday morning Iwem to the local lumberyard and by Sunday night m)' basic bench was complete, The base of the bench is made out of fir 2x4's, The top isa solid-coredoor. Lumberyard. and building centers oflen have slighLly danlllltcd doors al a discount. Or, you could make the to!>out of two piecesof:\l4" Iltywood, The basic bench worked greal. but by the next
t'
4
Woodsmith
No. 66
EXPLODED
SUPPLIES
VIEW OVERAll
r:
8ASIC 8ENCH
DIMENSIONS:
341/4"H X 30" W x 80" L
• (9)2><4·S.96'-IOO9 • (I) 1'1'.'x30' X 80' soli<;1-core
qo:>r(or laminate 2 sheets of ¥t.' plywood 10gefher to get a I ...... ··1hlCktop) • (l)piece%'plywood,24'X 46' (i6%' x48' for shelf.U$E) scrap for cleQl$) • (6)%'x~'hexbotts
BENCH TOP
® SIDE BRACE
• (20) 'b!!' woshers
• (6) %' rlUls • (4)%' x 4' logbolts • (16) ~8 x 1V.' flathead woodsctews • (100)'!l x 2y.,· woodsctews Of 8d flnlshnolls
VISE (OPTIONAL)
FRONT/BACK CLEAT
®
DRAWERS • (4) 1.6's, 96'~ong
BOnOM SHELF
• rn '1'.')(S'l.f-96·{hordWlOOd 10
LEG
RAIL
SCJ9WS
• (20) _8 x PI,' rtothead wcooscrews
I
"--®
®-SIDE BRACE UPPER LEG FILLER
MATERIALS
CUnlNG
8ASICBENCH A 8 C o E f
G H I
J
Legs(4) Sidesrcces (4) Upper leg FIllers(4) Lowel Leg FilltlJs(4) SideBroce Fillers(4) FrnI{BockRo,~(8) 6enchTop(l) BotlomShe~(I) SideCleols(2) Frnt.!Bock Cleots (2)
1'II x 3"" - 32 'i> 1...... x 31-'.1 • 23 I ~ x 3'i> - 21 1'h ~3'1) -A'i> , ...... x 3\-!1-16 l\-!Ix3y.,·48% 1:vax 3O,80 :v.Ply - IMtXA8 iII,Ply -l~x 16 'lid Ply - 1'i>x A2
DRAWERS' Drower Guide, (6) '\I, x 2""6 - 22'12 Dlower Stops(3) % x l - 14~ Dlawer Frt./Bc~,.(6) "'. x 41'. - 14y., Drawer $Ides(6) :V. x 4% - 2011. o Orower Bottoms(3) It. Ply. - 131,7x 20111 P falSeFronts(3) '11•• 4'1'. 16 Q Orower ilIJnners(6) 22'i~ R TraySpfir.es(2) It, Xy.,- 19'.'.1 S Tr
v..
No. 66
.-v.,
• (8).8 x A' flo1heod wood·
LOWER LEG FILLER
screws • (3) drewa
OPTIONAL • (I) ,"oodworking liGe(see seorees on page 24 for
~... x 4'"aoLT ANDWA.$HER
more Infomotlon on vises}
DIAGRAM
BASIC BENCH 2 x 4 • 96" (ON! GOARD)
I 2
e x4•
:
8
96" (FOUIt, BOARDS)
I 2
f
e
B
F
x q • 96"
(FOUR BOARDS)
c
E
DRAWERS
1 x 6 • 7~" {TWO BOARDSl
t)72 .,.~ ·"'7%: Zti:22~2?ttzJ. ~~ I
x 6 • 96- (ONE 80ARD,
1 x 6 • 96" {ONE80ARO,
I.
II
"
: '.1:';./1"
p
44
~ )114
:J;~'ACTUAL' x5'/~. 96" (3.1 80.
P fOR GUIDESAND RUNNfRS
ALSO A'QUIRES~ONE PIECE0,. ~ .." PI.Y.~24" x 48'1, ONt PIKE OF
Ii." PlY.~ 43"
x 48:"
ONI SOUD-COR.£ DOOR OR TWO SHIlTS Of ),',," PLYWOOD fOR TOP
Woodsmitb
5
END FRAMES The first
step in building the bench is 10 build the two end frames. To make each frame. begin by culling IWo 1e,!S (A) to a length of 321,2". (NoI.:This gives you an overall bench helllht of abouI34\!,t" when the top is on.) TIle l~nJlth of the legs can be varied to fit your helllht. UUIIJ)tNC:11lE FIIi\MF.~. Wilh the legseul to length, CUI the tW(I side braces (8) 23"
1
long,l>('t' ~iR. L l.aylWo legs (A) side-by-side and pol>ilion one side brace (8) 4~· upfrom the bottom ends. Then place the other brace flush to UI('IOPof the 1"1(", see Fig. 1. Once the pi(.'<.'e' are in place, lay oul the S('I'l'W locations. see ,,'!g. 2. Then. drill and countersink ¥IS" shank holes in the side brae.... (R). set' Fill. 2a. Now glue and screw the side braces to tJw legs using No. 8x 21,2" wood >'Crt'WS. see Pig. 2a. ill'rACU
rus
To
I'II,I.F.R PIEr-ES.
strengthen the cnd frames Iadded upper (C) and lower It'I( fillers (0). and two side brace fiUe.... (E).!We Fig. 3. SIDE
LEG
f
®
Ailer I trimmed the filler pieces 10 fit. I clamped the piec~ in position while Iglued and screwed UICmin place. see Fig, 3. BOLTlIo~.A11 that's leftl"complete!he end frames is 10 drill and eoumerbore the boles for the bolls ulat connect the r311s. refer 10 FIR. 7. 'These holes are 1¥~"down from the lop edRe of the side braces. and centered on the width of the legs. see Fig. 4. OIlC~ lb,' holt' locations have been mark("cl,l'ountt'rl)nn) 11!·clia.holes. :v,," deep on (he r)"t~i
drill ?lm"
2
SlotNAt.
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lRACE
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DRill AND COUHT£ASlNK ~ •• SHANK HOU IN SlOE BRAClS ONLY
TO OUTSiDe OF UOS
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4
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ItDllltActS 'lUSH
/' 2'"
DRI111··IHA. COUNTIRaou., \_ .. 0("
(NOFRAMf OUTS1D1_
FACI
SlOE
UPPER LEG FtWR
lRACE
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FIWR
LOWER
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LEG FIIiER
RAILS ~
I\.(ler the cnd frames arc built, I made the four rails (F) that run across the front
",il~ ....
and back of the bench. Each rail is made from two 2x4's laminated together .
5
NOTt: TOTAl Of fOUR
1tAAS"(DlD
BlOW TH£ RAIL.''-
To mak(·each rail. start by cutting rwo2x4's 10 a roujlh I~nglh of 50". After the rail pieces are CUI10 rough length, glue them together to form a 3" x 3~'rail blank, see Fig. 5. ShOI)NOle: Rathcrthan using clamps. and then waitinR for thp Rlue to dry. 1 screwed the rails lOANher with 2~"·longS('rews. Ill! sureto drill shank holes and countersink the
6
holes before scl'ewing the pieces together. length (If 4s:l<.".sec Fig. 5. (Note; 1lle only see Fig. 5. reason (or thls particular length is so the TNIM'ro U-:NG'TII.After gluing together all Tool Cabinet shown in W(}o
• FRONT IIIACK
RAIL .8
x
2''11''
WOOOSCRfWS
Woodsmith
•...._
,
SCREW ItAIl$ TQOmtO: fltOM INSIDE'Act
No. 66
RAIL CONNECTORS The rails are connected to the end frames with a draw-bolt system. This system not only allows the joint to be tightened if it becomes loose. it's also easy to make and jlues together quickly. POCKET HOJ.-ES.The first step is \0 mark the location of the pocket holes On the rails. The hole. are centered On the face of the rails and located 1:V4" in from each end. see Fig.6a. Now. drill a 1"-ilia. hole, 2" deep at Ole marked location. Then. to provide a flat surface for Olewasher and nut to draw against. square up the edge of the hole nearest the end of the rail, see Pig. 6. END HOLES. Once the pocket holes have been squared up, 1 drilled 1/16"-dia.holes centered 00 the ends of the rails. see Fig. 6a. These holes are positioned in Ole center oC
6
SHOP TIP
the Oat side oC the pocket hole. BOLT TOGF.TRER. Now the roils can be bolted to the end frames. JUSI insert" :VS" x ~" hex head machine bolt with a washer. Push the bolt through the countersunk hole ill the end frame and into the.hole in lhe end of the rail, see Fig. 7. Then slip a washer and nut in Inc pocket hole and tightenlhe boltholding the nul with an open end wrench. (See the tip al right for a trick I used to start lhl:' nuts.) If the mils won't draw up light against the end frames, you may wanllO use the undercutting technique shown in Shop NOles 011 page 11. Design Note: To keep Ihe pocket holes from showing.I positioned the rails so these holes (aced in toward the center oC the bench. see Exploded View on page 5.
To help start the nu! (in the pork.l hoI.) on the end of the machine bolt. 1 attached
tit. nut to a small scrap of wood
with a
piece of double-sided carpet tape.
-:-=DOUIU.·$II)(O CARPfT1APf
,
OAA.
7
ItA'L
9 RAIL
NOTE, FACt POCKET HOW10WARD
fiRST:
CINUIt OF arnCH
DRILL.1··I)IA. POCKET HOLE 1" DEEP
a.
'ir--l-------l ,'1'.' t-
AND WASHER
>,' .4' SOlfAND
\
WASHER
SECOND: SQUARf UP
.
[OG£OF POCKET KOlI WITH CHlsn
.___
.._____
lNDFRAME
CTHIRD: DRILL'II.· HOLE, C£NTfR(D
ON (NDS OF RIJ~5
TOP AND SHELF After the base has been boIled together, all that's left is to auach the top (G) and bottom shelf (H). I used a
J%".U,ick solid-core door as a top. BUI you could 'laminate two pieces oC +'4" plywood together instead. AttACH OlliE TOP. To attach the top (G). turn the top and the base upside down and center the base on the top. Then mark and drill the mounting holes on the bottom side of the toprails, see Fig. 8. Now attach thetop with %" x 4" lag screws and washers. WSTIIIJ.SHEt..F. Finally. cut a :v.l" plywood shelf (H) to width to fit between the rails. (1 used a 4$"·long piece 10 fit between the end Crameswhich are 4~" apan.) I,lse someleft over plywood to make 1t11"·wideshelf cleats (1)). Then altach the shelf cleats :\'4" down rrom the tQPinside edge of the bottom rails and side braces, see Fig. 9a. Note: Don't cover the pocket holes when attaching the cleats so YOIIcan gel to the draw bolts.
No. 66
1
9
8
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8ENCH
.<; a. ,"·CIA.
COUNTtIlBORf, ~ •• DEEP
TOP
--
J B _~ StDE
LAG S(~rw
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FRONT/BACK CLEAT
~.'
CLEAT
a,
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.ax
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DRILLAND-
PI.lOTHOUl
COUNTtRSINK
~ •• SHANK 8EN(HTOP
"
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CUT SKELFTO _r'ITBETWUN RAILS
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FRONT/BACK CLtAT
7
DRAWER GUIDES Afterthc basic bench was built. Iadded n set of drawers.The (""I.lep here is 10 buikl and
10
install the drawer jlUides (K). For durabilily. I used hard maple 10 make the llUid('$, bUIyou could make them out of pine (same
as the drawers). Ctrr GLJIOJ;.~ 1'0 SIZE. There arc a total of six drawer ,!(tlides made from :V4"·thick stock. However. the two center guides are laminated together. see Fig. 10. To make things easier. 1 glut-d up the two center llUides to a rough width of tv,". Then I trimmed the center guides along wilh the two side guides 10a finished v.idth of2Wu;" and cut them 22Itl"·long. see Fig. 10. C~'TTHE GR()OVK~. Once the guides are CUI 10 size. grOOV('S are cut to accept the drawer runners. see ~ig.10.I CUI these W·
deep grooves with a :v." dado blade, To cut the groove -s, fir.;! position the table saw fence 7-1<" from the blade. Then. 10gel the t~I&"·wide groove centered on Ihe guides. I made IwO passes. hll'ninl( the pieces end-for-end after each pass. \101:;-',. THE GIIIlES. After the grooves
DRAWER GUIDE
® 11
,
LliGS I _
lOP IUUl
I
MOUNT OUIO(S FlUSH TO JiIIIONT OFTOf' RAIL
have been cut, drill and countersink shank holesallbelocation,.hownmFtg.IO. Then position the Sld~ llUides so they're nush against the top fronl rail (F) and screw them 10 the legs (A) with NO.8 x lV4" nnUlcad
wood screws. see I'ill. II. lVith the
12
-
TOP IAII.
.h.: ou,W(IS
No. 8x 4" woodscrews. see Fig. 12. DRAWER STOI'S.
Fig. 13. After building the drawers. screw the stops in position so the back of the drawers hil the slops before the dra ..·(·r's false front hils the "od of the drawer guides.
((Nfl. OU'OI
SCHIN DAAWU SlOP
I
j
!
IlL
DRAWER STOP ~'
1
~.
SHOULD DAAWU MOvtFREEL
~·inally. I cut drawer
"lOPS (L) 10stol) lit,' back olthe drawer, see
13
,1)( ... ," WOOOSCR!WS
TO' RAIl. ON BACk SIDI!0' e[NCM
aN Glfl()(S
r
•••
11 ....
WOOOSCIUWS
ALTERNATE DRAWER JOINT A and backs. SCI·I·jg 2. Aftercuning Iht' joints. cut the grooves tor the drawer bottoms. Also culllr6ove" in two drawer .iI.'cIher.l1ee fig. 1.
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No. 66
DRAWERS
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When the drawer guides are in place, UICdrawers can be buill to fit between the guides. Since these drawers will be subjected to a lot o( weight, [ buill them with dovetail joints, USInga router and the dovetail jig shown in WOQIl.sw,itll No. 58. (For an alternate joint, see the box on the opposite page.) To build tbe drawers,start by cutting the fronts/backs (M) to length, \1)" less than tbedistance between the drawer guides and to a width o( 4%". see Fig. 14. Then cut the sides (N) to the same width and 20V,"long. Afterthe pieces have beencuuo size. roul the dovetail Joints on the ends oflhe pieces. BOTmM GROOVE. Before assembling the drawer. cut it If.''-dccp groove for the ply· wood bottom (0). see Fig. IS. The width of the groove is determined bythe thickness of the plywood. On our case this was '4".) TRAY GROOVE. To provide additional storage. I added a tray to one Of the drawers. referto Fig. 17.To make. ledge for the tray to slide on. cuta groove 2"down (rOI11the top edge of the drawer sides. see Fig. 15. After the tray grOOveis cut. assemble the drawers.Then cut the V4" x 1'2" tray splines (R) to fit in the grooves and glue them in
14
DRAWER
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place, sec Pig. 14. FAl.sE FRONTS.TI.e next step is to cut and attach the false fronts (P). Once the fronts
are cut. drill and countersink four mounting holes. see Fig. 15. Then position the fronts flush to the bottom of the drawer and centered on thewidtb, and screw them to the drawers. see Fig; 16. RllNN~. All that's left 10 complete the drawers is to cut the 22W'·loog hardwood
( ORAWlA
drawer runners (Q) and mount them so O,ey slide in the drawer guides. see Fig. 16.
I_."X 4~" HARDWOOD RUNNER
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fRONT flUSH WJTHaOnOM
O'DRAWlR
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TRAY lt's always aggravating when small tools get lost in the bottom of a large drawer. 1i> keep OIlS from happening. I builta shallow sliding tray for OnC of uie drawers. 111£ SJD£S. 11.e first step in buDding the tray is to cut the "'i'·thick. l:v.."·v.ide tray sides (S) to length. see Fig. 17.11lcn cut the front and back pieces \-Il" smaller than the inside ofthe drawer. On our lray this was 12lfs".see fig. 17. Once the tray pieces are cut to length. the ends can be dovetailed together. (If you use the alternate jOiOl shown on the opposite page. t.he length ofthe pieces will be different.) Also cut grooves for the ply· wood bottom (see Fig. 17a.) and assemble the tray.
17
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No. 66
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Shop Notes JIG FOR DOVETAILS • When it came time 10 make the dovetails for the Wall Shelf (shown on page 111).1buill 3 jig to hold the stock so I could accuralely align my chisel tochop out the waste sections. UUlLf) "fH£ JIG. The jig COD' sists of a base with.a guide fence bolted on top. see Fig.2.1 started bycUlting the base and theguide fence the same size. see Fig. 1. (lip: I used double-sided carpel
fence hastotrimmed back so the front edge is exactly in line with the base line. t"ROl>T STOP. After the gui
to hold the pieces logether while CUlling.) While thepieces are still taped USING 1ll£ JIG. Aner complettogether. drill counierbored boles for the bolts that hold the ing the jig. I got down to the fun pieces together. see Fig. 1. part: chopping out the dovetails. F£I>CE.When using this jig. To use the jig. slide your workthe workpiece issandwiched be- piece under the fence and push tween the base and the guide il tit:hl against the front stop. fence. see photo. Rut in order to Make sure the front edge of the. align the chisel to chop down on l,'llide fence is directly above the lbe base line of Ihe waste sec- scribed base line. then tighten lions (r~ferto Fig. 3). the guide down the fence. see Fig. 3. tape
To chop out the waste sec-
guide felice again. but tilt the
tions. placethechlsel Ratagainst the fence and chop straight down. see Fig. 3. Next, hold the bevel side of the chisel upon the front edge of the workpiece. Now gently tap out a layer of the waste section, see Fig. 4. \Ir\'l)SNCt]I". To make the next cut. hold the chisel against the
handle of the chisel toward you to undercut the shoulder slightly. see Pig. 5. (Undercutting helps the joint pull 10gether.) When you've undercut halfway through the stock. turn the
GUIDE FENCE
2
piece over and start chopping
from the other side to finish.
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Woodsmith
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No. 66
UNDERCUnlNG • Sometimes irs diffiCultto gel the ends of lite rails. see Fog. 2. • lighl joint line when you but! Then I chopped straighl down one piece into another. (Like at- on this border line WiUIa chisel taching the rails to lite leg$ on to score lite line lils".cJeep. the Workbench shown on page CHOP our WAS'l'1:. Once tile 4.) TIle problem is both surfaces border line is defined. the waste need 10 be perfi,etly Ilat [or the can be chiseled away.To do this. joiotto pull completely together, tJNOl>RCUTI'TNG. To avoid
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use a technique called l<'I1ilerclttWrg. This is simply cutting 0111 a recess on the end of the rails until a small shoulder remains around the perimeter. Since only lite shoulder touches the adjoining piece. ifs much easier to pull the joint tight, see Fig. J. UNDERClrrIlNGTIIE ENOS.To undercut the rails on the Work· bench. I laid OUI a l4"·wide border around the perimeter of problems.
hold lite chisel with lite bevel
facing against theend of lite rail. This kt.-ell" the chisel from digging in too deeply. see Fig. 2. 1'0 keep the shoulder from breaking off. start the chisel at the borderline, paring away lite
end grain as you work toward the centerofthe recess, see fig. 2a. After the end of the rail bas been undercut. attach lite rail to the leg. As you lighten the drawboll. the joint should pull to-
gether without gaps.
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TOI)RMNl GOUGING
SAWDUST RELIEF .Jigs and fences are great tor aligning and guiding work-
pieces. For example. em a table saw ifl need tocui several pieces to the same length. I attach a simple fence 10lite miter gauge. see llig. 1.Then r clamp a stop block to the fence. Okay. it's an easy procedure that's almost foo~proC)(Almost. There's one little problem that
can really mess thingsup-s-sawdust or wcodchips.
Asyou're working, sawdust is bound to accumulate along the edgeof the fence or atthe end of the stop block. Unless you caretully clean it.out, itwill gradually build up to the point that il will throw offyourcuL REU£F CI1AMFER. There's an easy way to-prevent this. Imake it a practice to cut a chamfer on the bottom edge of fen~.esand Stops. The chamfer gives the sawdust
somewhere
to go
wilboulhaYing 10brush it out of Ole way all lite lime. On the.end of a slop block, fot
creates chips of wood inaddition to sawdust (like a router table or drill press). Imake lite chamfer example. I CUt off tile bottom even larger. see Fig. 2. comer. You can rut off as much DOVETAil. SPACERS. Relief as li4"-as long as trs less than chamfersare useful on otherjigs Ole thickness of the workpiece as well. When Icut the dovetails that will be pushed up against it, on lite band saw (see pages 12 10 I also chamfer off lite bottom 17).il was important to keep tile front edge of lite fence about ),;tl' spacer blocks tight against each high to leave space for sawdust other. So I cut chamfers On the to aocumulate. bottom edges of the blocks to On other equipment that keep sawdust from building up.
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WORKI'rEa
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WOOD
'-CHiPS
No. 66
Woodsmith
II
WOO
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W 0 R KIN
G
TECHNIQUE
Bandsawn Dovetails A
bout 8 year ago, Mark I)uginske. a woodworker (rom \Vausau. Wiscon~in. dropped by our shop one fall altcmoon. He wanted to share with us one of his methods for cutting dovetail joints. When I first saw :\,lark', """pie dovetailjoint, Ithought il was CuI by hand - or maybe withanexpensiverouterjig
lhe hard part-cutting to aline - and allows Oleto COllcentralt' on the final fitofthejoinL 'lotI': Before going on. I should explain that what we're presennng bere is ~Iark's basic 5ystem. V{e modified th e 'Y" rem and some of the jig' sli)l'hUy.TorcadMark·,oriJ(inal approach. pick up a copy of his new book, "Band Saw lIand· book" published by Sterling Publishing.
such
as the I",igh jig. The joint was cut so both the pins and tails were exposed (called a through dovetail [oint) - and it fit to-
TAILS AND PINS A through dovetail joint con-
gether perfectly.
:\'Iark', system uses a band sa" and two jigs - ODeto hold the board to cut the tails and one to cut the pins. (These are the two interconnecting parts of a dovemil, see drawing below.)
band saw. the pieces can't be too wide. On my 12" band saw. I (ound that the workSPACER BLOCK SYSTIM pieces.couldn't be much wider than llY'.!". The bn~is of the system is a series of spacer Plt.F.PAAA1'10N '·IMt-:. Another disadvanblocks, When culling 011 the band snw, the tage is the time it takes to build the necesbhxk~~pac.:t'the tail 311(l pill (.;\Il:i ~u the two sary jigs. If you only want (0 CUI dovetail pi.'<.'C,will interlock perfectly. Ttl vary the jointsforOlIP projc<:t.this system may not be width otthe pinsor tails, all you have to do is worth it. You will have to spend a couple of vary the width of the block s. Using this .As...ith any dovetai~ there's some set-up time and handwork ining system. there are limitations to this volved. The band saw doesn't do it all. method. The most obvious has to do with the H...."DWOItK. But that's what I like most maximum width of the workpieces, Since about this 5)'>1<'111. I find the handwori< that some of the cutting is done with thl' work- comes with chol>pinJt out a dovetail joint I>iec" bctlt'Crll the blade and the arm ufthe especially satisfying. 'n,is syslem eliminates
\
12
sislsof two halves: the tail. and the pins. At first it can be a liul(' confusing what is what. The tails look like a dove's tail (hencethenameoflhejninl) wh ..n viewed from the side of a drawer (or the "id~ of the \VaIIShclfshown onpage 18). The Jlillxlook like rectangles (sort of like a box joint) when viewed from the irolll or back of the drawer, To add to the confusion, when viewed (rom the ends o( the boards. the tails look like pins (u,ually tallones).and the pins look like little tail" This all may sound confusing now. but it "ill clear uponceyouve cut afew dovetail joints. DIRECTION OF STRhSGTII.
Okay. which boardgetathe tail•. 811dwhich board gels the pillS? And does it make any dlfferencc? A dovetail joint i. 11111· c/t(ullcally strong in only OOl<' direction. If the joint is cut on 8 drawer, the pms should be cut ,)II the drawer fronL see the drawing. Then the mechanical strength of the joint holds the drawer II~ getherasit'spuljed open. On the Wall Shelf, the pins arc cut on the top 10 hold up the weight IIf the whol~ cabinet, and the bottom til Iwlp support the drawers,
LAYOUT L.1yingout a dove!ail joint - tbe site and placement of the tails and pins - is worth some time and thought. If the layout isn't on the plan. it's best to draw the tallsand pinson paper. Th('II. once you get a layout you like. it can be trnnsf erred to the workpieces, wurm OF PIN \'S. TAIL It's a matter o( in· dividual preference, but l prefer th.. pins to
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band saw. Ifound it easiest to build the jigs 3ta$0' angle (or 10' off90j:lbis worksoul to a ratio of about l:S:V•. les strong enough for most applications and looks nice. SYMMIl'nUGAL lAYOlJf.There's one more lhing 10 consider when laying out dovetails that will be cut using this band saw technique. The layout has 10 be symmetrical. That is. one half of the layout has 10 be a mirrored image of UIC other half. AsIQog as
be narrower than [he tails. Generally. I like the widest part of the tails 10 be about four times as wide as the narrowest pan. of the pins. (This can vary for appearance though.) ANGLES. TIle anglesofthe dovetails is also a mailer of personal (visual) preference within limits. The general rule is that the angle should be somewhere between 1:5 (78~') and1:8(83'). 'When sel;ting up 10 CUi dovetails On the
the layout is symmetrical, you can still vary the width of the individual tails by varying the width of the spacer blocks.
REi\DYTOcur, After you've decided on the layout. you can transfer it to one end of the board Lbatwin have the tails (see the next page). '(ben you're ready to start cutting your first dovetail join!. (WeU. almost. You still have 10 make the jigs. The first one is explained below.)
AUXILIARY BAND SAW TABLE You can cut dovetails on your band saw with only two jigs - the [ail jig- (shown on page l4) andthepinjig (shown on page 16). But I found it difficull to balance these jigs and a long workpiece on my Sears band saw. It only has a 1211." x 14" table. To solve this problem. I built a 24" x 24" auxiliary table (rom a piece of :V." plywood, see Pig. L lt sits directly On top of the band saw table. refer to Fig. 4.. (J found this bigger table useful for other projects as well) ,\l)1) llUN"'E!l. To hold the auxiliary table in position on the band saw. J glued a 11.1"· thick hardwood runner 10 il1(' bottom of the plywood, see Fig.!. CUi the runner to width to match the miter gauge slot on your band saw, Then position iLSOthe ed~eoftheallxiliary lable will clear the arm on the band saw. NEWSlOTS.Aflerlherunnerwasauached, I cut a slor In the auxiliary table directly over the runner. see rig. La.This slot (dado) is used to guide a runner that's on the bottom of the tailjig. Since I wanted to use my miter gauge in this slot for other jobs. I cut it Ihe
1
AUXIUARY BAND SAW TABLE
same size as the slot in my band saw table, Next. to hold and guide the pin jig. I cut a second slot (groove) the same si2e and at rightangles to the first slot, see Fig. L RLlliE sior, IVilh the slots cut, set the auxiliary table 011 the band saw and push it into the blade until an I I"·Iong slot is CUI in the plywood. see Fig. 1. Both jigs require a stop block. To mount this block. 1 widened the blade slot to 14" wide. (Since the runner was already at· tached, I had to turn the plywood upside down to cut the wider slot on lhe table saw.) Sl'OI' SUlCK.The stop block stops jigs and workpieccs that ride on the auxiliary table. To make the stop. glue a 2W x 3"block of lVi' stock to the top of a piece (,f plywood. see Pigs. I and 2. Glue the block alone end of the plywood. and then cut the ends of the block and plywood of( flush. (I also chamfered Ole bouom edge as a sawdust relief, For more on this, see page I J.) To keep the sliding SLOPblock square on thetable.cuta 14"·widegroove In the bottom
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of the plywood and glue in a \14" Masonite runner. see Fi!,!. 2. The runner slides in the blade slot on the auxiliary table, 111RNllt;CKLES:Jlleauxiliary tableis held down to the band saw table with a coupl e of turnbuckles, To make the turnbuckles, first resaw spacer blocks just a hair thinner than the thlckne ss of the band saw table, see Fig, 3. (These spacer blocks will be positioned SO they just clear the outside edges of the band saw table. see Hg. 4.) After resowing, drill a counterbored hole in the spacer block to accept a 0/16" carriage boll. Now insert the boll into the hole. and then screw the spacer block 10 the bottom of the plywood table. see Fig. 3. The carriage boll head should be captured in the counterbore belwe.m the block and the plywood. Thelurnbucklesarerectnngularpiecesof "¥." plywood with a !¥.$" hole <.101100 O{f-(;CII~ ter, see Fig. L To ughwn the turnbuckles. you can use a ¥ul' wing nul ora plastic knob. (We're offering the knobs through ~'oodsmi!b Proiect Supplies, see page 24.)
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No. 66
TO EOGEOF 8ANO SAW TAW W1TH TURt'
13
WOODWORKING
TECHNIQUE
Dovetails: The Tails B
efore you begin bandsawilll( dovetail s, there are a (,·w things to do.The workpieees have to be prepared. the band 1'<1W tuned up, and a tail jill'built. .TOCK PUPARATION To begin, it's importantlhat any stock to be joined is nat and planed to a uniform thickness. SClt .\R£I-1' zses, After you're sure the boards are nal. ntXt square up the ends o( the workpieces and cut them to finished size. Then mark the base lines to correspond to the lhicknv,soflh. matching board, see Step 1 on th~ opposite page.
there's security in seeing the cuts beinz made where they're supposed to be.) SPACER RJ.oCKS. Next, cui "pacer blocks (rom ~" stock [hat match tile distances from the corner ofone tail to the same corner on the next ~,iI. see Step 3. This means there will always be one more tail than the number of spacer blocks, STOP FENCE AND BLOCK. Thcn position 1),\sE. Start by cullinII'a :v.' plywood base IS" wide and 24" long. see ~ig. 1. the workpiece on the tailjig and clampdown RUNNER. Next, cut a runner to fit in the t1w stop fence. see Steps4 and 5. Next. push miter gauge slot in tile plywood auxiliary thcjill into the blade llntil the blade touches table. see Fig. Ia, Position tile runner in a the scribed base line and clamp down the dado on the bottom of the base so the base stop block. see Slep 6. BAND SAW TUNE UP clears the band saw arm when the runner is Safety Note: On Step 4 we're showing the After the stock is prepared. you should in th~ miter gauge sloL band saw's guide post high above the work'pend a few minutes ch..,.;king that. your t'RO!'o'TFENCE. After the runner isglued in. piece. That's okay when the saw is turned band saw is tuned up ..., the cuts will be I SCn:'WL-d a fence on top of the base to hold off.but always lo....erthe guard right over the straight and true. (For information on tuning th.. workpiece at al0' angle to the blade. To workpiece before turninz on the power. position tile fence, I used my table saw's up a band saw. see lVood3111itli No. 51.) crrmxs. Now irs a matter of adding the BtAl}F..To cut dovetails, I use a V." blade miter gauge. see Fig. 2. spa""r blocks one at a tiOIC (in alphabetical S1~)P FENCF~ TIle last pan to make is astop order) and making cut s. set' Cutting with six teeth per inch. Be sure the blade is f,·nce.lt's a pieceof~." stock with a squared- s...quence at far right. Then flip the board sharp and tensioned correctly. 8lADE GUIDES. 'I11\: rnc.,sl Important thing oO'holecutin it (ora c-clamp, see Fig. 3. ovcrand make the second sequence ofruts. Shop Note: Usually you will be joining to check is the location of the blade (side) CUft1HG PIlOCIDUU guides - both above and below the table. both ends of a board with dovetails. To These hold the blade in line (ora straight cut The procedure (or cutting the tails is shown simplify the explanation of the rutting and should be a hair away from the blade. in the drawings on the opposite page. sequence, we're showing only one end. Before you cutdovetallson a project. I'd rec- Once you're familiarwith the sequence. you (For more information. M'<' page 23.) ommend working through the whole can flip the board end-lor-end and edge-forTAIL IIG process-e- tails and pins - on 'Orne scrap. edge before adding each spacer block. Once the saw is tuned up, you can begin 1,AYOUT. I S\3n by laying out all the tails, CUlM OUT WASTE. After both sides of the building the tail jig. This jig holds the work- see Step 2. (This isn't really 11t'Ct'SS3J'Y since tail. are cut, chip out the waste areas bepiece at the COlTeCtposition while cutting. the spacer blocks position the cuts. But tween the tails. see Steps 7 and 8.
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BY
S T E P
STEP
CUnlNG SEQUENCE BEVEL SQUARf
FIRST: CUTIS-MADE W_SPACllI
alOCKS
Make .ure bQ(llYl/&rwi/.,;s tru« and For 1 ~I!ds 2 are sqUa1·C.Tic"" set tI,e?l",rksize Q"d $po.ci'~golt,ltil~ l-ej'cr(J11Ce1.1.lhettctttti'll{/,
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SECOND: cur lS MAJ)E WrrH
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SP,"ClR BLOCK ~A) IN PlACE.
fng!}n uge10 111i.cknes.•olb(HJ:rdlurt/l.pin«. the bo(n'll'I,ritl, a pencil and bevel gauge. Mark the bILs.line em /lothJlLCesand edges. Ttien.murk 100Si.e eeetions ,uiill a,l .4 X. ff
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the ,,,i,ttl!
To dete,·min.
left conw"ol t/U1""",UQil.Then Clttblock to Oi2e. tailloupper
Now mount the wiljig 011lite band 4 saw. Next, 86/ workpiece Ott the jig
(wd alig" tne fir8t tui/with the blade (see SieyJfi). Then. ch,t.mp troWII tlte stop j8'ICIJ.
SlOP mlCO
NOTE: STOP CUT At BASI:
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OF LAYOUT UNE
Forlhefirsicui, aHgnbl'rde witli line N .. ~t.clamp tile 8107) block trottol, W 011the fi"st, tail. left drawing. Then the tU(xil;(ll'Y table will. u C·ctamp. pI,sh Utejig( and,t,'()l'kpiece) ill/<) bwde MW TlwnfolloUl the cltlting sequence in 00,. (1/ Nght. Beuoeen cuts, add the ~po.c.,·blocks. stop at sc,ibed base "i{Jhid,·,uving.
5
6
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PA!t£-OUT
RlMAtNlNO WASTE
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out wo,stehetweenfhetaU., I fi'inaUy. 1'O/(g" ctu area Olll.itie tltt 7 1'0eno» 8 u8etlwhase sl1own01l laslta il.JI/a' over;rize. Th"" scere tile shoulder with a wille chisel (left) and pate lirt,ejig
pa{/B10.
IVOl'k/rombotlt sUbis oltlUl boa''d nlW ">I, de'rC"t toward the cellw' (seepag810).
No. 66
ont the waste with a tta)"YJWcitisel (right).
Woodsmith
l5
WOODWORKING
TECHNIQUE
Dovetails: The Pins A
fteryou'vc fini'h<'d chopping nul the waste areas between the tails, the next step is 10 cutthe pins on the other board to fit in those areas. The chatIC!1geis gelling all of the pins to fit perfectly - nOI too tight or 1(10 loose.
to keep Il,.. CUI(rom going 100 deep. SCI' Step 4. (Note: '11<' pln jig doesn't move towards the blade like the tail jig. TI", work
piece slide, forward on the jill.)
PIN JIG To cut the pins. there's one last jig 10 make -thr pin jig. Itholds the workpiece at an angle Ihal matches the tail angle. CIJT1WO !runner is glued 011. the oexlSlep is to glue a fence along one ,' the 12"-long wedges,
.>
'UKt:nIFCl""_ :\ow ir~ju'" a mailer of making all of Ihc' angled CIIIS using the same spacer blocks as when clllling the tails, st·" Cutting Sequencv
AS.~~"Ill.\.
Once the weol!(" are CUI.glue
Box. 'I'll!.' JIG AROII~II.Nleral! of the cuts iU\.
them between the IWO plywood squares to create thcang1edjig.s<'(" Fog. I.
nL"I" in one direction. tum the jig around and align the blade cl<-arlyin the "asle arc a, SC'l' Step 5. Then "'Jwat the process of LAYING OUT THI PINS adding spacer blockaand making cuts. After Ntcr Ihe pin jil( is built, you're finally ready the cut, are complete. chop out the w.~It' 10 start I II('I.slstep-Iayingout and cutting between the pin, as you did with th'lails. the pins, TRI" TO FIT. 111e most important SII'P is Start by setting the markinz gauge to th.. the next one. Cht'Ck how the pins and tails fil thicknc,,,ol the board for the tails and mark logelhcr. see Step 6.Then. if nec~.lap base lin(" on both.fares. Ihc' pin jig Over to trim aliltle more off Ihe the tails in the "d(', of all the pin" see Slep 7_(:-':olc:II', 'WO\ <:I 'I' I.JNES.l\CXI,use first board 10mark the cui Iines for the pins ('asy 10 take 100 big of " CUI.so jusl burdy on the second board, sec $1ep I on the 01>' move Ihejig.) Comlnue sneakingupand cutposite lX'gt·. (Shop Tip: Clan 'ping a smal! tinllllnul the fit i Rl'lhcr and check the final fiL see SI,·p s_ will fit into) with an "X ", WI",,, the joint filSpr(merly, it can be glued up 10finish the proj<'clyou're working on. CUnlNGTHIP INS "":-'I)'IINGl P. Once the joint is together, y()U can mount Nler Ihr layout is complete, the end grain ofth(' pins and tails may stick the pinjill on the band saw. «'t' Step2. Then above the face ofth" board s, orbe recessed, align the jig <0 the blade <'U Is in the waste If Iht· end grain <'kk, abcvethe surtace. fik' area.righl ,,"..-110thelin" rnarking thatarea, Ihe pins or tails flush. If it's recessed. UM' a planvto shave the fac'eof the boards down 10 see SICI13. SET ''TO!' Hl.(lCK. Next.se I the slop block the end grain oflh(' pins and tails.
..
1
2
', '".,'(Ne[
I
I'
"
i
a, ~/".. Pl YWOOO, 12" a 12"
PIN JIG
_-
10WfDG(
<,
;I ""H. ._ ,.,"
_MUS1
c t--' I
COMI TO A POINf
\
T ....10·
annvo
lOIH1lCAI." WIOOU
I
. .
ft
)0
..
•
j
,..,_.l -,./..
=.
..
snMIJU GAUGlA!
16
Woodsmith
10"
No.66
--....
S T E P
B Y ST Er
.......
CUnlNG SEQUENCE ......, ... w
-..0-,....
FIRST: MAKE r:JlST curwnUOU'T "'ACIlt
no
8ACKIL. IOARD
AUGN W'rTH FIRST PIN ANO CLAMP IN H.ACl PIN IIOAID
MAKtCUT
/Jul/JillS,/i"Hi nuirk: IxUfe line» Imllt/a.','x. 7'111'/1 holdlail board., .. the f'nd ('./'/1/'" /xHtl,1 (tlld "~(lt·~· cut lines 'l'u
k II iff".• l/n rk 11:'fJ."tlp(l Y'eas1(~ith
AOD $PAC(lt (A) AND
1 ">I IflU
,(1111,(I
SECOND:
·4'('8....
,ll0lft,1 !Ji), ji{! and uorkpiece (Olt,t·
2 .~;d,t
Ill»
(JU
IXlutl
HIIUl••
41ign jig
110
btatl« If'ill rill i " 11'(,slt;)1('.(1ttJfi,.~t ,)fIt (.I((!P
S/(1) ,I), 1"'t'11 el« ", J) (J'llt ''''lfl'lli' l"
0/jig.
F-AelMOCHI
ora.cnoN •••
NO
<""""IftO
110""" UNI k
I'OSITIOH StOP'LOa(
IoOCUfSfOPS
L.._""-'__
AT"'5I! UN.
%
of/he blade i>l ,'1)/,,4 3 Noffllll' 1111' (U)111UIIii' rill ill th» ".,Ale
I'0silioll I ion 10 lallOl
l\'Oltl/JItHlt If'O,,A'/Jiocl' into blad» and t(tcll' It I (III' lH(b'(l line. Theu C/(tll11' ~/t)/) blfU'k (Iud mak« cut» HllUlC')l i" CllfJ ~"" XI"I'It' "('t' uI tel)} U/ bu.r (III riglll, WOJtKPUct WITH
.... IOUD
0UT$l0f'.leI snu u' f
TURN JfGSO ANGU'ACU 0<>P0Sfl't
DIRlCTlON
SfCOND: ADOSPACOt 8lOCKSANO
fAIL lOUD
5n
pitt jig 4tOll1ld $0 1I(llefare. 0lil'".it.c (1i1'I'rlilm. Then
,Vl'J,'I. IIII'll tht'
a/i(lll blml<' II/lilli/Hide 1/1(' layolll line, bitt
c:/e-(r rill
i'lilltl'
1('tIH/('111"('(1. (~/(l t~tPd()UJ'l)'lg.
6
('(""IJ/t'till{]
rltlli'lg SCq?tCll(.(t, rll(III (JI,I umstc ""('(1. the» CIl£Ckuou: A./1I'"
MAKICUTS INlHE SAME $(QU£NCE
ASAIO~
YOi' CRII 11';»1(l 1'1' it mor« ,ifft Il/'1)i "~,l~l!e Step 7. pi'll .•• m/ 1«il .•.[it, (ff//I'!(""'OOli{/1it
GtNnYTAP - JOIHT
TOOmu.
To fn", oj! juxt (l },(I;r more, keep tile I"" jigr/« JJJIJ('d to ttir« luilill ryllJbl~ a",lto pOll'jig toith « "''' 11<'1.l' 011 'Mllld be (1.11/(' to ",01,(' if n I illlt'lllitllouJ u.ncla)l11)i'1lg.
7
No. 66
IIiR areas 8 ).fln·1I1I'(I",pi» .•filil1
tU'('fU
{'{1{I)1
1'1"('IfNI("('
(t
r(Ltl
I:",,, IHI
t.tJ.PfIW (U[I('(""'"
"d
to prt'tJftllt
Wu
beb«
board for
SIH itti)lg.
17
r-
F__E_A__T_U__R_E P_R __O~J~E_C __T
~
Wall Shelf This is the perfect opportunity LO try out bandsawn dovetails. Even if you don't build the shelf, check out the unique hidden hanging system that holds the shelf on an)' walL.
T
hiS wall ,heir is a ).'!"Catway to try out the tech-
nique o( cutling dovetails on a band saw (see page 12). The (our sldes or the shelf. as well as the drawers. are all joined .. ith dovetails. A ....ord about dovclail' OO\"tails arc an age-old joi". "ry technique. Yet. the)' "'-em rightat home on contemporary furniture, \·spedally those pieces with very simple lines tbat allow the-dovetails to be accented, The wallshellisan ideal cnndidaie lor dovetails, Thejoinery provides a nice touch or decoration - and it's a subtle way to show 0(( your crartsmanshil). rns DRAWERS. I alse used dovetails to make the three drawers that fil in this wall shelf. However, wilh the drawers closed. what you see on the front o( thr drawer doesn't look lik. a devetail-e- it looks more like a box joint (see the photo above). You have to open tht· drawer to see the characteristic dovetail shape on the drawer's sides,
18
IIANGINGS\'STE.\t. Bcsldesdovetails. this shelf offers another interesting challenge - hanging it on the wall once it's done. Of cOUJ'S('. i(you U1'(' M"TeWs or any type o( anchor devices. you11want to drivethem into wall 'tuds. :-'otaneasytask. Even ifyou can locate the studs. Ih"re',onlya slim chaneethey'll be in the right location lor hanging the shelf. Instead. I mounted the sh~lfb)' hanging it On a long cleat that is in tum mounted to Ole wall.The nice pari is thai the screws can IX' Ic)t'n"''' anywhere along the I""gtlt 01the cleat. Then the whole system is hidden from view SO you don't see nny serewheadsor even thf' cleat, (For more on the hanl(ing 'y,wm, see page 21.) WOOD ANDFlNlSlt.The shell shown here is made (rom red oak and finished with IWO coals of \kCloskcy's Heirloom EJlRShdl Varnish, The combination of oak and a matte finish enhances the contemporary look of the shelf desillll.
No. 66
EXPLODED VIEW OVERAll DIMENSIONS: 16'" H x 36" l x 81/16" D
'--/--,36"====--_--.1
WAll ClEAT ,~G:r---.
@ SIDE BACK E DRAWER SIDE
,'I--",
DRAWER STOP ..
@ CENTER SHElf
H
DRAWER FRONTS BACKS
/-
DRAWER BOTTOM
SIDE LAYOUT
I:-:::
....
.:
, .. 1
r •
~
Y .
//
DRAWER LAYOUT
v
-
/1
7/ ,
'/
r
'"
"
"'.1--,"--1",.1--,0- ",.1.-,.- 'I'
.".L,-_ ",.!--,o---j.." _'"_
CUnlNG ~ .." IIC8'1."
WOOD PARTS
DRAWERS
SHELF A Srdas(2) 8 TOp(1) C BottomO) D C~,,'arShelf (1) E Bock(l) HANGER SYSTEM F Wall Hongar(\) G Woll Claol 0)
H Dr.Frts/Bocks(6) ~)(2'~6-1 11".
No. 66
'!r.I x 2'I" - 34 'll \12.'1'4-34\12 \12 x 1!.8-34'a
I
, ..-..J'IA"
•
21~(I"
MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES
'1'4.8\,\. -36 '1'. x 8'1,.· 35
.
'0- "'.,
/.
8\'__ ."
'1'. x 8'11.· 16 :VA x 2''\1,. - 36
;:; y
/.
I Or.Sldas(6) ~x2''1',.-7% J Or. BottOfT\$(3) %pIy.x7'1a-Il:V,. k Drower Slop (1) *-. 0/1., 34'~
SUPPLIES
I
-l." x
I
r
DIAGRAM
• 72 (4.1 ad. ft,1
I at."
A
,
c
A
: ·12. (4.1 ad.Ft.) 0
~"x 8V..• -72 (4.1 Id.ft.)
!:. I ,HI!
Lwu~ff.MffjJ -K
• 8.2BoClfdll.-lr.·-fhlckook • 4 1 Boo,d ft. ~"'hiok ook • 12' x 24' place Vo' plywood
I
• McCloskey's EggshellVoml$h
'ORAWfRS REQUIRE 121' )It 24" PIECEOF II.," PLYWOOD
Woodsmirh
,H,
!
IH,
k/j6#}'~ 19
SIDES I started building the about I" fmm th" trom edge of both side '" wlIU>hcllbymaking piecesso it doe...n't -,hew, the IWO sides (A) To cut Ih~ ,toppt-.i dadoes. mourn a V4" CUI these pieces straight bil in the router tabte and SCI it tocut • 81.t";,, wid<.- (Ioaccour "10"-dl"'p. I'o,ilion the f~nce 3'"," from the modale the dovetail bil. SC(' !-ill. 2 layout) and to a Sincctlusis ablind cut (Ihe bitisunderthe lenglh of 16". sec workpiece and YOII can't -ee where it is). I fig. I. (The angled put " r('f~I't'nce mark on the router table fronl "dll~ Ol(lhe.c side pieces will be CUIoff fence allh. t(·nwrohhe bit. S~l·lg. 2.Then 1"I~r.) If y')1! don't have Oal, wide board s. Iplltunullwr mark on the workpiece I" from build UI) 1111' width by cdllL'lllliingsomc nar- Ow front edge III indicate the stopping point rower pi('C(·s. forth« dado. ".,' Fig. 2. STOPI>~:1l o.vno. Before cutting the ROtmNGTil E tl.\I)()P_'\.To rounhe dado in dovetail joint s, Irouted a stopped dado for the side piece f"r the righl side of the shell. the center .hell (D). This dado is stopped lay the piec... down on the rourer table and
J
1 urr
SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
..
,-
MAJtKClNtt.
2
or 1fTON '(NC!,.----
....
fIIONT
'IIONT
IOGI
lOG£
@\ \
$to....,
-'I1
l7".!~
•
t'r
BOrrOM 0' DADO
16'
n.n.n.n.n ~
8'.')."-":
TOP, BOnOM,
!
.~ ,
,
SHElf
20
( ..... K $TAIIlNQ""NT
INSIDE 'ACI
DOWN
DO\~T.\lI$. ' v ith the pieces cui to size.
-- .., '::> __- :r---3_::__
CINTER
(Clh.·"_·.
•
~ :~l:~:f,s~~ize:.s.
___
3
from the
f" 3'.·
you ran lay out th,· dovetailjoints. I followed the layout ,hown on pagE' 191a~;ng out the tails on the ,id~ pi,.."." (A) and lite pins On lite lOP(8) and bonom (e) pieces. (e) 10 To cut the dovctaib. I used the band saw C\ T TO SIZE. Stu1 technique ,hO"11 on pages 1210 17.There's by ripping the top only one 'I'I1II11problem. TI,e angle hasn't (8) to a width of been cui off the front <-.igeofth e sides pieces 21'1'16", S('C Fig. ·1Then rip the bottom (C) yet. refer to Fig. 1. Bill I found h easlestto lay to match Ihe width oi the side pieces (Sllt6" out and cut the lails all the way across the wide). A, for length, cut bOlh pieces to a side pieces to pn'vent confusion. (Youdon't uniform h'nglh ,,(36". have to chop them nil out, Just chop out the
-...r&:.-
3\\'3)'
AND SHELF
After the dadoes arc routed in the side pieces (A). you can CUIthe lOP (B) and
4
left.!;('e Fig. 3. Shop NOll':Allhough you can accomplish lite same Ihi'l!! by roUlinll from len to right. I would" 'I recommend doingitlhal way. The rotation of the bit can pull the workpiece
~
.t
f. '"
Howe ver. for lite piece on the left side. you hav .. 10 make • plunl:~ CUI. Tum on the router and ,Iuwly lower Ilw workpiece omo the lumiJlg bil. You have to lower it so the reference marks allgu when the piece is Oal on the table. Then push the workpiece across the router labl~ moving from right 10
'IIOM' ,F EDGf
,.-
'-
~
.....K
stOP POINT
push il through Ilw slraighl bit, SlOpping when the two Iderencc marks are aligned. see Fig. 2.
TOP
(!'}-
an SKILF 1,,-
lOHOO THAH ltC'SHOULDfR·TOoSHOUUKI
,..-OlMUtSlOH ON IOTrOM "IC'
three
,"1I~t(.· areas
on thr side pieces for the pins on the lOPpieee.)
ce--"ThR
~HU.J'.All<'r th"
dovetail joints
are CUI.you can bellin work on the center shel(O). Slarl bycuttingth e shelfthe same
width (81.tt6")as the sid,,,, (A). see Fig. 4. To determine the length of the center shelf. dry·.,,,·,,,bl,· Ihe 101>.bouom and sides.Then me ..sun- the inside distance between thc,id(·s. (In mycase.this wns34 \02".) Then add \02" for Ih~ V."·long tongues on each end ofthe center shelf and cuuheshelf 10Ienlltlt (:15"long). em" TONGuss. To make the , longlll's:ltthe ends oruie center :.; 5 Itt.'" ,Iwl(.(cut rabbetson the topand FINCE bouam faces of Ihe shelf wiUI. ~ .L , d3do blade. S<'e Fig. 5. Sneak up . on the height ofthe blade lIOtiI '-li tit" 10nltU.. fils snugly into the L dado in Ih(' ,id~ pieces W. TRIll TO~GlE. Since tbe dadoes on the side pieces are slOPped. you hav(· 10 trim the lonllUf' back. ~ Fig. 6. To do II,;". score the fronl edge with a chisel. nnd Ihen pare back the lonltU(' just tikI' you did when CUTBACK TONGUE TO FIT culling lilt' dovttails (refer to 5lOPptO DADO StCl18 on page 15).
:.®
:'I. ,
L
No. 66
ASSEMBLY AI this point all the joinery is complete. All thatremains is to mark and ("t,t the angles:ofr the fronl edge of the side pieces (A). MARK ENDS. To mark the angles. first dry-
assemble all of'the pieces. Then rnarkapoint X where the bouom edge of the lOppiece (8) mceisthe side pieces (A), see Fig. 7. Mark a point Y where the lOPedge ofthl' center shelf
(D) meets the side pieces. Now. disassemble the pieces and draw a tine between the marks.
crrr OFP ANGLE. Once Ihe angles are
marked, clIljustshyoflhe line with the band saw. see 1'111. 8. Then plane to the line with • hand plane.
7 DRY ASSEMBU!
AS.~EAIllLY. Now
the wall
shelf
can be
glued and clamped, see F;ig.9. (Don't overtighten or the lOPpiece might bow.) ct£.IN·!JP JOINTS. Aftcr Uleglue dries. remove the clamps and cheek the joints. Ifthe pins and (ails stick above UIC surface of the boards. plane or sand them off flush, If they're slightly recessed, use a plane 10 shave the boards down to !he pins and tails.
9
8
un CI.MIP,NG PADS~
UNIT, lHEN
MARKANGl£D -
POtNIX
UHE fROM THE
BOnOMIDGE OF THE lOP
PI,'c:£ TO ~E aNTtA. SHUI'
MAR. 60TH SIDES
NOTE: POINTY
CHICK CORNERS
tHE TO l141 UNit /1
FORSQUAR,
INVISIBLE HANGER 'To mountthe shelf to Ole wall, I used a hidden hanging system. IIconsists of two beveled strips that interlock. and permits the mounting screws 10be
1'0 aecomodate the hidden lockinlf strips - a hanger and a ot the back piece (E). Face the strips. first cut a 2Vz"·wide wall cleat, To make tbe hanger bevel toward the back piece, groove in the back face of the
shelCback (1)).1 CUI the groove by making repeat passes overs located anywhere (so they can dado blade, see Fig. 2. screw into the wall studs). Then cutthis piece 2V."wide U"cK.Slarl by cutting a shelf lOproduce an Lshaped piece, back (E) to a rough width of3" see Fig. 3. and to length to fit between the HANGER. The shelf actually -shelf sides (A).seeFig.!. hangs on two 1i2'lthick mter-
1
NOTE: GLUEHANGER FLUSHWlTH 8ACK
(1-). cut a piece about 2" wide and the same length as the back (34 W'). Then bevel-rip ofia :¥.",wide strip, see Fig. 4. ('I..E.~T.Now follow the same procedure 10 make the ll1l"wide wall cleat (G). see fig. 5_ i\$$&~r»t..Y.Next, glue the hanger (F) to tlte lOPback face BACK
2
PIECE
WALL MOUNTING.
CUTBACK TO ftNAl
TO CUT GROOVE
./10,.(8). :
Next,
screw the cleat (G) LO the wall stugs. Then set the shelf over the cleat so ti,e beveled strips interlock. see Fig. Ia.
3
R.£P£ATPA$SES
(00£ OFTO'
see fig.la. Once lhe glue dries. glue this unit under the top (B) Of th!>wall shelf. see Iig. I.
WIDTH
BACK
J_ -
'1',"
\.2"
®'
-r -t I
j
No. 66
Woodsmith
5
WALL HANGER
4
~
WALL
CLEAT
10-.
f4-.'II....
b-r
\SET.lAOE AT 30'
t
~/@ "
\
SlT BLADE AT 30'
21
DRAWERS After building the basic wall shelf, I =~ built three drawers i to fitth. opening between the center shelf and the bottom. The three '-Ir': ,<; drawers arc simply open boxes with through dovetail corner joints. CUT Tut PIECES. Start building the drawers by cutting lhe ltz"·thick drawer fronts/backs(H) and drawersidesfl) to a widdl lIu;" less than the height of the opening. In my case. I cut these pieces 2':Y16"
10
~
t~
\1
.~
wide. see Fig. 10.
As (or length. cut the sides (I) 7%" long. To determine the length of the fronts/backs (H). measure theinsideopening
J
BOTTOM
(1t4. PLYWOOD)
on Ul" shelf
(34 \.'2") and subtract :Vl$" (to allow space be-
tween (he drawers). Then, to determine the
length of uu. front/back piece. divide by three (11'1\&"). 1)0Vh'T,ULS. After cutting the drawer pieces to size. I cut the dovetails following the Drawer Layout shown on page 19.To use the band saw method described on pages 12 through 17, you only need one Iijlu;"-wide spacer block. (Note.The \l'z" thicknessofthe drawer parts doesn't effect the basic procedure tor cutling the dovetails. just the location ofthe base lines.) FL'IGER IIOU!. After cutting the dovetail joints, layout and bandsaw an off-set 1114" radius finger hole on the top edge of each
11
Nowcuuhe drawer
drawer front. see Fig. U, Then. 10make it smooth torfingers, filedown the i".icleedge of the hole. see Fig. 11a. Now glue and assemble the drawers, and check for square. IlRA\WR sorroa. The drawer bottom (J) fits in a rabbet routed in the bottom edges OCUlI!drawer, see Fig.12a. To do Ulis. mount a :V8" rabbetbit on the router table and move the assembled drawer around the hit tn • clockwise direction. see Fig. 12. (Note: The depth of the rabbet should be
12
O. CROSS SECTtON
bouoms
from V.I'· ply'
wood (it's usually a little less than 14" thick). and round the corners to fit in the rabbets. see Fig. 13.Then glue the bottoms in place. CllAlI1I'£ll. Wlth the drawer bottoms in place.I softened all the edges of the drawers witll a illS" chamfer. see Fig. 14. DAAWER SJ'Or. TIle last step is to add the drawer stop (1<). see Fig. 15. II's simplya
:V." x lho;" strip glued to (he sheltbouom
(C)
at the back of the opening. Position the strip $0 the drawers stop abOUI 14;" back from the front edge of the shelf. see Fig. ISa. O.
ROUT
CROSS
.OUT
""alIT
11\."
I
SECTION
1l
CHAM"'
INSlor U)GE Of FINGfJl HOlE 111....
UlMUS
14
13
\
,
\
O.
, ,(,
I
I
CROSS SECTtON . I
-
"
NOTE: cl!AMu' INSIDE
toG"
CHAMFER
art
$TOP OftA,WlA_ '...... F~M FRONTEOGf
,'
"-
'- .......
t: ,
APPlTGWfTO UJ.an\lOGE.
22
Woodsmit:h
No. 66
COMMENTS
AND
QUE
S T I 0 N_S
---l
Talking Shop SOflWOOD PLYWOOD
PLYWOOD FOR JIGS • OI1~question Ihal comes up
Irpqlwnlly is what material 10 use to make jillt'. Mo~1olthcjigs in our shop arc made out (If I>ly· wood. Plywood is lIat. consistent in thickness, and dimensionally stablc- ideal lor jigsSOt'IWOOO l'ln\'ooo. Almost everyone has serne softwood (fir or pine) plywood left over (rom a building proj~'C1.It's so readily available and IIIc)(J)Cnsive.that it's tcOlplinll to use it forjigs. But solt\\ood 1.lywoodhas so many voids in the inner plies
(layers) thai the edges aren't very smooth. On a jig you want smooth (>dgcslor workpieces to "In against
i
Of
to act as stops.
A second problem is thai the lace veneers art' onen covered with knots. defects, and raised grain. ft'~ difficull to push a workpiece over such a surface. IO\ROWO()UPLYWOOO.The al-
ternative i. It) use plywood with a harder ''ICeveneer, ~ost oflhe jilt' I've built arc made (rom :v." birch or maple plywwd. Both of these art' clean and relalively Vl)id·~. BUIthey can be expensive, t: "less you have some scrap lelt over from a project. it's expensive 10buy il just {orjigs. Currenuy, alot'al homeeemer sells ¥4" birch plywood {or $34.99 (I sheet as opposed 10 $18.99 {orso(twood plywood. IIAI.Tll· KIRCII. You might have noticed that the jigs shown
In this
issue
arc
made from
a
special kind of hardwood ply·
wood - Baltic Birch {rom the Soviet Union. This is what I consider a "Cadillac' Jnat~rial 10" building jigs. (Belore going on, let me say that these jigs do not have to be built (rom Baltic Birch. Any plywood will work.) Baltic Bin:h plywood" built up of many thin (about ....16· thick), consistent layer, o( veneer The l&nm-thick (about ¥4") Baltic Birch is made up 01 thirteen lay"", versus seven L1Y' ers for ",."-thick Am~rican plywood. see photo. This makes I"~ edges clean enough to use as a finished edge on some projects. The white birch (ace veneers are slightly less than ....,,;', thick. butconsiderably thickerthan on American hardwood plywood. This allows lor some additiennl
ApplePly" (hence the name). ApplePly consists 01 ....In"· thick core veneers 01 western red alder (nol apple). For the lace veneers. States Industries offers jusl about any domestic hardwood (most commonly maple and birch) in typical ~ .. (or less) thickness. DIMES$IOSS. Since Baltic
sanding on the surface,
wli(l clear veneers. This makes
"Baltic Birch is a unique product consisting olone piece (ace and inner plies," explains Mark Aquino. of AIlk-d lnternational, the sole importer of Baltic Birch since 1967. "It's virtually voidfree. You won't hit a se-a 01 or knot, and the multi-ply e dlte gives it a decorative appeal" APPLEP~Y.Aboul four yea!'< ago Stale'! Induslri e , of ~;ugt'ne, Oregon started manulacluring an American version of Ilaltic Birch called ApplePly. Bill Powell. Markel Development Manager explains Ihat since they were COnlllClingwith Bailie Birch they would scu their product to be "as Amt'rican as
the edges clean and the panels strong and stiff (especially alter dadoes arc cut in them). They also hold screws better than standard plywood.. The large number of layers also creates a few disadvantaRes. \\'hen you get thai many layers in a panel. you mighl get some movement (warp) in the panel. I've had problems with both o( these prodUClSwarping, especially in thinner thicknesses. (But nOI much more than is typical of any thin standard hardwood plywood.) In the manufacluring process il lakes a long time to lay up all those layers. so Ihe price is
BIRCHPLYWOOD
--,.,.,.-,,! ~
... ..(..;..,.r-_"'-d
Birch is imported. its dimen-
sions are metric. Thicknesses range (rom 3mm (aboul ~') 10
180101 (about :V.'). And the sheet siT.<'is unusual to Amcricans - 5 feet by 5 reel. All' pie Ply's dimensions arc familiar - v.,". ~g,It, ¥lit. !¥g", and if .." thicknessesand 4 x8footshccls. PROS ANI) CONS.The advanl'llre ofbolh products is the large number of thin laminations 01
APPlEPl Y PLYWOOD
~~.~ Pi''''_ '~""~lo.""
M.L*IW_ ~
Ib"")l")l:il
hight'r .Locally. a :V,"-thicksheet (Sll x 511.) of Baltic Birch sells lor $57.60 ($2.30 a SQ. fl). A 'hl'<'l (.I (I. x II (l) of AppIePly seus lor $68.00 ($2.12 a SQ. ft.). 11,i. compares to $1.09 a SQ. ft. ror standard birch plywood. AVAILAllILiTY. Baltic Birch and Aplllcl'ly aren't available at every lumber yard. But both are diSiribuled nationwide and can be found 31 $OIlIP retail outlets. For more on obtaining Baltic Birch or ApplePly, see page 24.
BAND SAW SIDE GUIDES • \VIlen "'Itillj! up the band saw phenolic plastic laminate mate10cut dnVClail. (pax.", 1210 17), rial To CUi down on lriction. the the 010,1 importanl step is get- blocksareimprcgnalcd "ith dry ting the >ide ltUides adjusledjust graphite lubricanl'. a hair away (rol11the blade. The advanl3l!e of using Cool COOLIlIAX KS.Mark J)uginske Blocks is thai you can adjusl recommends replacing Ibe them so they lightly louch tllC standard side g\lides wiU, "Cool blade. 11wn, when you tum on BI(Jck~."1'wSl' art· made from a Ihe saw. the blade opens up •
No. 66
very Slight canal through the quickly. So you need to readjust blocks, and the blade can 'I move them periodkally. (You can revt'ry far Outof line. (Thecana! is surfart' them with a fileor sandcut since the blade is thicker at paper.) To gel Ihc accuracy I Ihe weld. and the band saw's wanled (or Ihe dovetails, I adwheels might beoutolround.) jU.led IhcltUidesaboul every 15 ADJUSTht£NT.Onc problem IlliJlllt(·S of Ctllting tinlC. we've noliced with ule Cool For infomuuion on ordering CooII~I()cks.see page 24. Blocks is they telld to wear
WCl
23
PROJECT
SUPPLIES
Sources as two Cambridge vises. (See box below for catalog sources of 'Vhon \\'0 finished the Work- these and other vises.) bench (shown on page 4), we Basically you want a vise that started looking for a good cast has fairly large jaws (7" wide or iron woodworking vise to mount larger) 10 hold lumber either IAl the front afthe bench. vertically 01' hori1.ontally. One of the best-known names Some models come with a in vises is Record. These vises quick-release feature that adds are made in England and have a only a small amount to the cost sound reputation for quality. butsure makesworkingwitb the In addition to Record vises, vise a 101 easier.
WORKBENCH VISE
Although there ar... number two other manufacturers have entered the market in the U.S. of vises that are Well suited for One is Cambridge Tool Com- the Workbench. we chose two pany ofCanada which also offers vises to make available from
a fuU line o£ vises (similar to those made by Record). And recently Iorgensea (tamousforhs line of clamps) has introduced a woodworkingvisc. ''Ie looked at the vises available from these three cornpa-
nics, 8S well as some "generic" vises (probably from Taiwan or China) that are offered by some catalog companiesWe narrowed our choices down 10 vises that faUinto a midsize and price range. We would suggest a vise like the Record #520 which has heavy-duly cast jaws and steel guide rods. 111e Jorgensen vise also falls in this category as well
To order by mall, usc the form on theprotectivccover ola currenl issue or write YOllrorder on a piece of paper. and send it wilh your check or money order. (Please include $1.50 shipping charge with each order.) lA residems add 4% sales (ax. Send order to: WoodsmithProjectSupplies P.O. Box 10350
Des Moine.,lA 50306
24
COOL BLOCKS
In Talking Shop. page 23. we talked aboutrcplacing the guide blocks on your band saw with
Cool Blocks, These graphite impregnated. phenolic laminated blocks are available to fit a number of differenl band saws. They arc sold in sets of four: two for till.' upper and two (or me lower guides. Cool Blocks are available from the Garrett Wade catalog. see the address below.
WING NUTS 'Ving nuta are great for making any sort oijig that bas a rnoveable section or fence you have to adjust and re-tighten. We found some large plastic BALTIC BIRCH wing nuts with brass threads. AND APPLIPLY These nuts are almost 3" in In Talking Shop. page 23. we diameter. which makes working ia Iked about two unique ply- with them ajOy. (They're shown wood products, Baltic Bin;h and on the base line holding jig on ApplePly. r)agc 10.) 1'0 find a local dislriblilor or WinllNuts dealer for Baltic Birch. you can You can order large wing nuts A good basic vise for the call Allied International toll free from Woodsmith Project SupWorkb~nch is the one shown at at (800)343-9074. plies. TIle brass threaded insert right in photo above. It has cast To find a local distributor or in each nut is sized fora !Y\~"·dia. iron jaw~ that are 7" wide by 3" dealer for ApplePly, you can call boh. Packaged in a $<)t of four. high and open to 314" (between Stales Industries toll free at ·766-210 Large Wing Nuts, Ute two hard maple jaw faces in- (800)537-0419. Package of Four ..........". $5.95 chided with the vise). Woodsmith Project Supplies, Both vises are made by Cambridge Tool of Canada.
Basic Vise ·766-103 Basic Vise .... $64.95
ORDER INFORMATION BY MAIL
If you're looking for more than jU"t a basic vise, I'd choose one that has a quick-release mechanism. like the One shown on the left in the phOLO. To loosen me frorujaw .jusrgive me handle a halflum counter-clockwise and you can slide the front jaw all uie way in or out. The jaws on this vise are 7" x 3" and open to 7Y4" (between the hard maple jaw faces included). It also has a solid brass pop-up dog in the top ofthc Ironrjaw, Instructions for mounting are provided by Cambridge. Mounting hardware is not included. (Allyou need is four bolts.) Quick-Release Vise .766- t01 Large Visewith Quick-Release $79.95
BY PHONE For faster service use our Toll Free order line. Phone orders can be placed Monday througb Friday. 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM Central Standard TIme. Before calling. have yow' VISA-orMasterCard ready.
ALTERNATE CATALOG SOURCES Simi/Ill' harduare and "I!pplies »lay bejomld i.1t {hejollmb'ng cataiO(ls. However 81yll1-~ (1"ulsif£e$ m,.y "Ul7!f>1.e4lie''Cj'tY 1.0 elIcll ra/Q~oujoro1'lkril!g j,lj()rlll.(tti.o'L Garrett Wade Tools t61 Ave.of the Americas
Woodworker's Supply 5004 Alameda Place N.I>.
New York. NY 10013 Vi~6I!.Cool Block. Grl:aly Imports, Inc,
Albuquerque. NM 87J 13 \'islJJI \VoodcraftSupply
P.O•Box 2069
P.O. Box 1686
Bellingham, WA 98227
Parkersburg, WV 26102
Vwes
1·800·444·7002 Allolf)4 IQ6 "",,;k.[ordelit'ltr'l/. ,\'(J/e: Pnr.,'.J$ ~l(bjetJt.(J rhaf~!Jt' (lfii"t Sir/Jhflfll;qr. JhfH>.
Shopsmith 393) lrnage Drive Dayton, OH 45414 Vises
Woodsmith
Vise8
Woodworkers' Store 21801lnduslrial Boulevard Rogers. MN 55374
Vises,AJ,piePlli
No. 66
