NO. 60
NOTES FROM THE SHOP
$3.50
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Sawdust
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ABoU"r'I1DSISS1l& Hls(J>ry repeats itself, So fro', we'.e added the supplies fOI' 01' so they say. 1 hadn't really thought three of these "ast projects. First is the much about that in terms of WOOI/8lnitlt clock movement !either brass keywind or EditOf Donald B. Peschke quart1Jb"I(~Ij'), dial, door glass (which is until we started work 011 this issue. Des1gn Oiroct'" Ted Kralicek IVoodsmith actually got started in July stenciled as Shown in the iSsue) .00 the ManagingEdllO(OOuglas L HickS 1978 when I began wOlokon the first issue, hardware for the Regulalol' Clock shown in Wood.mill. No. 36. As it tarns-out, ninety-nine years earlier, AsSiS1an1 EdIIOtSOOuglas M. Lidster As 3 rel)ult of a number of .requests, we in May 18'1ll, my gI'eat gomdfather, Emil Kent A. Bucklon are of\.rillg more Choices for the Cradle Peschke, started hL~0"'11company -. ProjectDesigner Ken Munkel 'Why am I 'mentioning this now? The shown in Wt)Qd8",ilit No. 48. The cradle TecIJricaImUSltalorsDavid Kreyling company Emil started was a "Manufac- was o!iginally shown in oak. We new ofi;er Cary Christensen the spindles (and the buttons) ill oak. turer of aU kinds of Mouldings, Picture RodStoakes Frames and Curtain Poles." (I'm lucky cherry arid walnut, Chris Glowacki enougll to bave one of U,e business forms If you wanted to build the Eu''Opean Workbench shown in Woodsmill, No. 50, he used back then, We incorporated it into Cu~omefService Sandy Baum, Mgr. YOIl may have had trouble getting the Jackie Stroud the COVel' photo of this issue.) Pat Koob So, ills coming full cycle, and I'm tilWJ;y- vises. It was 1Iot the faul~ of \Voodcran. Supply (the mail-Ol-der source we lisled). Usa Thompson getting' around to making the picture They did an admirable job of trying ro get frames that seem to be part of my heii· Project Supplies leslie Ann Gearhart lag e. or course, the moldings we're show- and keep the vises in stock. The problem Terry J. Strohman ing in this issue ate not nearly as ornate was with Ole manufacturer. Computer0_10"" Ken Mine, We have talked directly with the manas t],ose Emil made 100 years ago. Bul AdminiSlrallve AssIS. Cheryl Scolt ufac1;w'e" and have received. shipment of styles change. Jean Carey PICTUllE fRAMES. What was so much the vises for the workbench. You ClUIstill order from Woodc,'lIft. SUpply, and we are run}, tllOUgll, was ~nling up \vith a variety EktlldlngMalnlonatlC8Archie Krause of frames using a Hmited amount of also b"ing to Keep some on band. lJlGO JT6M.S.One of U,e things I didn't machinery. We decided to limit the work The Woodsmith Store to using a router table to form the profiles. mention was the .ddition of the "logo" This meant we had to make all the profiles. items, :l,Ve new have a l5hOI)apron, a coffee Opet.lions Steve Krohmer mug. and 8 corduroy cap - all \\ith the with router bits. Is this too limiting? Mrukeling Manager Steve Oozier Woodsllwh logo On them. At first, I thought i~ would be. But, then To be honest about, all this, I resisted Store Managers: [ began looking at the dozens of router bit Stlouis. MO Jon Behrle profiles available. '1'here were actually too oO'eriug this tYlle of thing for many ye,,':!. EkHI
randAve., Des Mornes,lA 50312. NEXTMAILING.The .ext issue of Wood· those supplies. (For some of these post SAMPLE COPY: We willSend a free sampla .mith will be mail~ during \he week of projects. \Ve sometimes listed a source oopy 01Woodsmith to anyone. Just send us February 27, 1989. that has since stopped carrying the items.) his/her,name and address. Numbet60
December, 1988
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\VOOOSMITH
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T_i~s & Technigu_e_s__
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FRAMING A 45' ANGLE
When I 8Ct up the table sa w ror cutting miters, I use a tittle geometry to adjust the mi~r gauge ror ·15-, To get. n 45° angle. I use a framing
square and (orm (U1 iso.lce/",' binngle. (All isosceles triangle ha.. two equal sides, and Iwo 45- Imgleg.)
l
flAMING
1
SOU~AI
...
steek b~ long. Now. to dctennine where to drill hoies for the different I'ized dowels, marl< a centerline :~ong the thiclmess of the block. Next mnke murk. on this centerline I" and :>." (loom.",,11 end of the block. '",en drill the four dowel holes (W', %" ~. and 'Ke") compleLely t.h,oough the block. (Drilling 111I'olll1hIhe block allows the dowel to be pushe(1 th.oough 1'0 one end i. .11.,1 the fen<'! at inter"nI.~ on both ends of tOO block.
I,.
~
a coping saw or a back saw, To pinth the blade tight in the kerf, I use a y~"-dia. n\llC:hincscrew and nut, Drill a y,,·-
SOmore bll"le can be 1I~<1. U$f 1,,- 'It I","
MACtilNE SGRtw AND NUl
LAY our COHTout 10m
llANO
WHIH lOtH
SI)6 Of SOUM( AlE fOUAL AJ ~lUt G.t.UGf_SLOr. THC c.wGt tS sa Al 45""
~ged raton< have II .",.,I1 hole in the center or the b~ule that needs to be enlarged to aecel)t the machine strew. Since the metal in the razor blade is very brittle I ju.t u8
To set the miter gnuge to a true 45· angle, set th. fnuning square on the top or the tabte MIV. Now align lbe same measurements on beth arms or the [nuning squ"''e riStht ngninst the edge of the miter gnugc ~Iot. Nex~ loosen the miter gauge locking knob und gently Bnllg the 1,"Hugeup against the fromillg square. "1w miter gauge is 1I0W set at exnctly 4r,·. Then, tighten down the locking knob nnd you're ready to cut"
To 11>10 the jig, align the tenee so the blade fil.ll into the k.. 'f slot. Insert the •~. miter, dowel stock into the correct diameter hole until the end of the dowel is against the 8ric Schlleitimiller Lompoc, Califon,ia renee. Now hokl the jig and dowel and cut through the dowel. Slowly back the jig out, and p""h the tini~ dowel out the edilor'. Note: Til;', lip It'Otk r»tly if 1M *,w blad. ;. pnroJle( .MIII fhe miter edge or the jig u.tJ.>lia
the machine screw l).0<1nut, \'/heJl us.ing the l'Wl":'pcr, ju.-rt push or pull the scraper to serape the workpiece •
Carl Faiz
ChtrrU ffill, New Jersey
",Il
!JOl(r [rtJ,nil'!J iSqlWrc ;8 Irllly sqr«tTe.
CHEAP SCRAPER
RIGHT LENGTH ON SHORT DOWELS
SPOUT CAP
If yoe're alway. I"';ng the small spout. caps from contail~rs or small cans, treL help from clocUicial",. I keep a varil'ly of the ",nail diameter electrician's twist-on wire eonnecters (sometimes called wire nUL,) in the shop. When l lose a cap ~ooma can or glu. bettie, SOIIl(!
Here's a technique that I've been using for
J just
I lise quito II few short dowels ror gluing joints together. An<1J -ve had more Ulan
some linl€! now with g1'eat success, It's called doctor ~I"dinl( and I lise it for a
"tire connectors.
just a lew problems cutting V3J;OUS s110r1. lengths fiOOIII raw dowel steek. The lengths
variety of pUI·JlOI
are uHually in<:on~~tent, and sometimes,
wnen cutting the dowels on the. band saw, they would be caught between the blade and the rip fence. Thl, not only ruined the dowel but be<:lme a safety hazard as weU. I ...... Ived the.
made from n 1/,'"- thick piece of scrap measuring 11'." wkle by 6" long.
To milk. the handle fit comfortably in your hand. draw a h"ad contour on til
SCJ'C\V
on one of these n"ift)·I",ri:itron
Freel Wm1zoll Do "jen CO)ltlecticlti I
1----------------1 SINO IN YOU. 10lAS
1----------------1 "you'd Ok. 10shate 8 _WOIlOng 1lp... 111 other readers of WOOdsm,th, send your idea to: Woot/5mith. Tops & Tecru,;ques. 2200 Grand Av ... Des Moones. towa 50312 We pay 8 mnmum of $10 "" aps, and S15o. """. for spedallochnlques (ilia. are accepted to< pul)foea_). PI.... gIVe • compIo.... ptana. tlon 01your ode•. 11• skolch " _. send • along: .... 11draw 8 now OM.
3
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S_t_e~Stool A STEPIN THE RIGHT DIRECTION
Life is too short. For a four-year-old, tIl.t means you .-J a stool because you're too short to reach the sink to brush your teeth, For an adult. it means you're still using the same stool to reach all the way back on the top shelf oC the kitcllen cabinets. For thls project. we used • basie approach. The step stool is made of ngue and groo\·ejoinl.1!. EDGE.oGlU( THE SIDES
I began by making the two side (leg) pieees, The trick to making two mirrored pieces is to start with o,,~blank, see ~'ig. ). Then aJkr all tile grooves ore routed, i!.'s cut in half to create the two pieces. GLUE-UP.To make the blank, t create a blank that's roughly 16~"\\;<1. and 29' long. CUTTO SJZ£. AJlCJ' the glll~ dries, Illnno or belt-sand the bllmk OaL 'I'hen cut iL to a width of 14" and 28" long, see l'ig. 1. LAY OUT LINES
A!tel' the blank is cut eo si,.0, two dadoea, a groove, and a rabbet are rollted to join the other pieces of the stool, sec I·'ig. I. DA.DOES. Start by laying out a V."-wlde dado Cor the bottom step 6%" Crom .nch end. This ls a sl<>pped dado, so nUlrk the stop line 0/.0" from the front edge. GROOVE. Next. lny out a \o~"-wide groove to hold the riser. It's 10000ted&y." [rom the front edge of the blank and conneeI.1! the two dadoes. BACK RABBET. Finally. layout. rabbet. along the back edge Cor the back p'meJ. The width oC the rabbet should equal t.he thickness oC your stock (0/.0,,).
MAnRIAl.S LIST Owtoll Dimensions:: 19" w )( 14\'-" d x 14'" h A SId.. 12) 8 RI_ (I) C Slop (I) o .... ",.,.1 (1) E UcI (1) ...,.,..
0/.)( 14 -
13V.
0/. • 6'/.. -
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CunlNG DIAGRAM
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ROUTlR GUIDE JIG
After the layout is done, you can begin routing. To help align the cut.s on the lines, I made a simple guide jig Cor the router. BUIUlJ)C. The jig is jll1!l • Cenee nailed to an 8"-wide base oC 1'1' Masonite or plywood, see Fig. 2. Rip a st.raillht Cenee and nail it to the base 90 the back edJtC is 2" from one edge, see Fig. 2. (The 2" lip is used to elamp the jig to tile werkpiece.) cur OFF BDGE.The nice part. about tho jig is tI1al you can use it to get perfect. alignment with your layout tines. The koy is that the bit cuts on t~e edge of the jig. To accomplish this, mOUllt a 110" straight bit in the router. Then damll the jig down and run the router ntong Lhe fence SOthe bit cuts tile waste otTthe front edge. Now
4
Non, SOTH $IOES CUT fROM ONE 8LAHK
ggoove DETAil
RABBET PETAIL
WOOOSM1TH
the
c:ut edge is exactly in line with the path
of the bit. see Fig. 2. ROUTING
Alter the jig is complete, it can be used to rout the two dadoes, the groove, and the .-abbe~on the blank. ROUT DADOJl.S. Before routing, I clamped the side blank (A) on top of a couple of sawhorses, see Fig. 8. 1lhen T clamped the jig in place so its edge is aligned with the left edge of the lett dado line, see Soop 1, Fig. 4. Set the depth of the router bit so it cuts a Y,"-deepgroove in the blank- taking into consideration the thickness of the jig's base. (Sinee the base of my jig was v..thick, I set the del)th of cut at ~".) Now set the router against the fence of the jig and cut the groove, moving D'Om the back edge of the blank toward the front edge, see Soop J in Fig. 4. ShOI)Note: Sint-ethe router bit is turning clockwise, routing this direction actually pushes the router base tight agains~ the fence, STOP THE DADO. This dado is stopped o/./' from the fr'Ontedge to keep it from showing on the fr'Ontedge of the stool. Waleh the layout lines and stop when the bit touches the stop line. seCOND DADO. Next, move the. jig down to the dado 0.1 the other end and followthe same procedure, see Step 2. GROOVE. After these t\VO dadoes are routed, turn the jig 90' and clampit sothe edge aligns with the layout line fo.' the groove for the riser, see Step 3. This groove starts in the dado on the left and stops in the dado on the right, Shop Note: Instead of trying to plunge the bit exactly in the left dado, I plunged the router bit a little ahead (to the right) of the dado. Theil I held the router firmly and moved it backwards until it broke into the dado. BACK RABBET. The last thing is to rout the rabbet for the back panel, Since this rabbet. is ¥,.I¥ wide, and the bit.is JhN wide, it has to be routed in two steps. First, align the edge of the jig with the inside layout line and rout a ~N·,\'ide groove, see Step 4. Then move the jig toward you about y,;" and make another pass to clean out the remaining waste, see Fig, 5, CUT BLANK IN HALF
ClAMP JK; TO WORKI'tECf
NOlE'~8AC~K~~~ ROUT IN iDGE: QllltfcnoN OF ARROW RGURf ..
GUIDI' JIG
GU'DE
STEP 1
.JIG
$TEP 2
ROUT lff.T SIDE BOTJOM DADO
ROUT RtGHT $101: &OTTOM OAIIO
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$TEP 3
STep 4
ROUT GROOVE fOR RI~1t
ROUT RAB8fT fOR BACK P,o.NR
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GUIDE JIG
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1r flGURE-$ 1/..DADO
Alter the routing is complete, you call cut the blank in half to create two mirrored side pieces. 'I'D do this, start by rougl' cutting the blank in half with ~he miw' gauge on the table saw, To get the two side pieces .to =tly the same finished length, set the rip fence 1314' from the blade, see FJg. 6, Theil cut each piece with the bouom. edge against the rip fence. WOODSMITH
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FIGURE • toUGH
"EASU~NJ-l'j ® . BACK PANel
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COMPLETE 'TIlE SIDES
IIULIHOS& OllIS"" IOG( 0Hi." SO
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RIGHT
RISER
Now that the two side pie<.'
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INSIDE PANELS
,,' ClNf'alO TONour ON
With the side pieces complete. work can begin on the three inside pj_~: the riser (8). the step (C), and the back panel (D).
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STEP. I started by edge-gluing two pieces of 'v." stock to fonn fil'l!l step (C). After ill. dry and planed or ."nded flat, mit it to a final width of 12%'. see Fig. 8. (Ills cut to final length Iater.) RISER AND BACK PANEl. Next, cut lhe front riser (B) to width tIC) it l11ateheJIthe length of the vertical groove in the ~idc piece (ln my case, 6Vi' wide). Then cut the back panel (0) to • rough width of m'. (This will be cut to fini$hed width later, rerer to Fig. II.) Now cut all three panels (B. C, D) to a uniform length of 16 :y.'. TONGUES. The sIAlp (C) and front rU!c>r (8) are joined to the sid"" by cutting rabbets on the ends to form tongues that lit the dadoes 3nd grooves in the side pieces. (I used tongues here for. cleaner appearance. Any variation.< in the tongue tIUckoess are hidden inside the join!.) To cut the rabbets. mount a 1'<' dado
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STEP
lOrn (NOS
1 DETAIL
blade on the saw and raise iL ~. above STEP 3
the table, 800 Fig. 9. Before cutting the ~. ched< the saw set-up by cutting rabbets on the cnd of a piece of scrap that·s the same thicknc.;s. After the tongue on the t.est board fiUlthe ~. groove, cut to~ on both ends of the front riser (8) and step (C). TRIM BACK TONGUK. The tongue on tho front edge of lbe step (C) h.. to be Irimmed back to fit the stopped dado. I trimmed the tongue in two 8l.eps, see Fig. 10. First. cut the tongue V'- from the front edge stopping short of O'e .houlder. see Step 1. Then chisel down 011 the front edge to remove the waste, see Step 2. WOODSMITH
6
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The final operation on the step is to bullnose the front edge (1;00 Step S) using the same procedure as on the side panels. aOT'rOM END OF RABBE'I'. There are two more steps before assembly. The bottom end of the rabbet has to be chiseled out so the back panel (0) will align with the bottom of the step (C), see Fig. 12. Alter the rabbet-is cleaned out, trim the back panel so the top edge aligns with tbe top of the sides, see Fig. 11.
flGUR£ 11
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DOwa J'tUG
BACK PANEL
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ASSEMBLY
Once all of the pieces are cut to fit, assembly can begin. DRILL PILOT HOLES.Start by clamping W. pieces togethe" without glue. 1put a pipe damp across the top and another between the arc!l in the bottom. (Check that the step 6ts tight against the back panel.) Then drill pilo! holes through We shank holes for No. 8 .x 1 V," woodscrews. GLUE AND SCREW. Take the pieces apart and put some glue in the dado, groove, rabbet, and between the riser and step. Then clamp it back together and tighten down We screws. Alter the glue dried, I plugged the screw boles with "'" dowels and trinnned the dowels off -Ilush,
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ROUtE 12
FIGURE 13
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.... £1
LID
The only thing left is to make the lid (E). Start by edge-gluing two pieces of '1(." pin_together. Then cut the lid 10/.0" wider than the distance from the front edge of the riser (8) to the back-edge of the back panel (0), S\!(! Fig. 14. Finally, ell~it lV,' longer than the width or the stool (19"). HINGE MORTISES. The lid is held to the stool with butt hinges, see Fig. 13. To mount the hinges, I outlined each hinge in the top of the back panel. Then I routed out the mlliolity .of the waste and cleaned up to the line with a chisel. Now sere",' the hinges into the mortises so the front of the hinge aligns with, the inside.edge of the back panel. Then center the lid on the top of the stool and mark the location of the hinges on the back edge of the lid, see Overhang Detail in Fig. 14. Outline this mortise with a chisel ao iti. 1%' from the bact. edge, see Fig. 13. (This allows the lid to overhang '>fI" off the back, see D.etail in Fig. 14.) After the hinge mortises are cut, rout the bullnose profile-on all four edges of the lid. Then l;CI'CW the hinges in place. CHAIN.To keep the lid from falling back when it's open, r screwed anll'·long brass chain to the bettom of th.lid, see Fig. 14. CATCH.J found that I always tilted the stool on the edges of tho lid, put it swung down because the f"ont edge wasn't air tached. So I mounted an elbow catch on the bottom of the lid and a strike plate on the riser, see Catch Detail in Fig. 14. FtNJSH. r finished the step stool with two coats of satin polyuretli'ane varnish. WOODSMITH
o CHiSEl OUT
RABBET so SACK PANt\.WJU. IE WfJtI BOllO,", OF STtP
,
FlUSH+'--+--
OVERHANG
DETAil
®_-t''1 UD
CUT
LlO:::::::::::::::::::::::::~~:!
1 vI' WIDER THAN
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TOP OF STOOl
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CATCH DETAil
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STlIln PlATE
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D_is~lay,_E_a_s_e_l
_
SHOW YOUR ART EASILY Granted, this easel is very basic in design. But it incorporates a variety of different techniques that make it more inteteSiing to build than tl!e finished product might suggest. The most unique and challenging techniques wet" creating round tenons on the ends of the dowels, and drilling nniformly·spaeed holes to hold the gal. lery Spilldles, reIer to Fig. 5. The fun part. was making the jigs that made both of these operations easy.
V!' hole. Once the jig is set, you can 011 the stretCher dowels,
TENNONING JIG
start. work
Befol'e I started to make the easel, I made a small jig to cut round tenons on the ends of the stretcher dowels. The jig holds the dowel vertically SOa 'round
tenon can be cut on a Touter table., To make the jig, all you need is a piece of 2.x4 scrap, some 'hI! ?tlasoJute and a %' straight router bit. Start. by ripping a bW.Jongpiece of 2x4 down to 2" wide and turn it on edge. Then drill a hole the size of the stretcher dowel (%.) toward one end of the block and centered on its willlh, See Fig. 1. AiWr the hole is drilled through, tack a piece of v.' Masonite 011 ihe bottom of the block. This serves as a base plate for the jig. (Keep the tacks away from the hole.) S&'I.'I'ING 1lJ'. Now, to make a tenon. mou.nt a %" stnUght bit in the l'OUter table. P!:ice the block agaillS' tJ,~fence of the router table and adjust the fence so the bit is C6.1lettd on the end of the block, refer to J"ig. I. Then rail;e the bit until its heigbt above the table equals the length of the tenon yOI1 want ("An, plus the thickness of the \1<" Masonite. After the router table i. se~ up, push the jig along the fence moving from right to lett until tbe bit cuts abou~·halfw.y into the :y,;' hole. Now it's just • matter of fine-tuning to get the OOI1'ectsi?.e tenon. SUtrl by tunting off the !'outer and look FlGURf 1
the end of the dowel stops aj,>ainstthe Masonite base. Then oo1'if!
Dltll1.
1 CIA.
STRETCHER DOWELS
To build the easel. 1 started by cutting stretcher dowels from %' birch dowel rods. The four dowels (A) for the upright Ji'Qnt ti'ame are IT' long, and the two dowels (B,) for the support frame are J5-Y$"long, see Fig. 3. CUTT£NONS. Then I used the jig to cut round tenons on both ends Of all six dowels. '1'18 tenons should be a little longer than the thickness of the frame uprights. (This meant ~. long in my case, see Detail in Fjg. 3.) I trimmed the tenons flush with tne frame pieces after assembly. LOCKING PIN KEn.'. A1Wr the tenons are cut on both ends of all the &t,,,tcl,el' ,",,~01dowels, 1 cut a shallow kerf around one . ",,'.1 of the 17·.long dowels. (The bottom ", stretcher dowel that is attached to the front uprights, l1lfer to Fig. 17.). This ;.....;... __ ~ -_-' kerf helps secure a lOCkingbar m place, down into the hoIe, Adjust the jig until the refer to Fig. 11 on page 10. bit. is barely vi$ible on the left edge of the 'To make the kerf, 1 marked the center hole. 1'hen clamp the jig to the (ence with of the length on the dowel, see Fig. 3. a C-elamp, see Pig. 2. Then, adjust the table saw rip fence so tbe T£ST ClJ'I'.'1'0 teSt the set-up T used a blade is centered on this mark, see Fig. 4. scrap piotte of 0/," dowel. Turn on the To qut the kerf, hold the dowel fumly router mid Slowly push the dowel down against the miter gauge and push one end into the hole rotating' it in • counterclockagainst the renee. Then slowly roll the wise direction, see J"ig. 2. Continue to dowel to cut a \4>'.doo» kei f all the way push and turn using even pressure until aJ'Ound the stretcher dowel,
S"'
V':
HOLE
Tlloo_
21'4 8lOCK
TWIST DOWEl. COUNTERCLOCICWtSE WHILE RfotNG DOWNWAAO
STRAIGHT BIT
8
WOODSMITH
CENTER "' .. om ICtlf ON ONE Uf'IllGtiT STREtCHEROQwa
RGUJlf 3
GALLERY RAIL
Two of the 17'·long stretcher dowels are used to make a decorative rail at the top of the easel. These two dowels are held LOgether with 12 decorative "gallery" spindles (Cl. refer LOFig. 8. (See Sourees, page 2,1.) DRILL.INGJIG. Drilling the holc~ ror these spindles wilS unother ehallengo. To 'hill these holes. r mode a simple <:entering jig with a couple pieces of 'Y.' plywood, see Pig 5. First. eu~two V"'·wide ",lly just short of the middle of the dowel and make a reference mark. Then nip the combination square over against the other .ide of the jig and make • second reference mlui<, see Fig. 6. Now it's easy to spot the centerpoint halfv:ay between these two reference marks. OIUl.L ROLES. To dl,1I the hol03 into the dowels, I used u o/...-dia, brad-point drill bit. (The brad poil1t keeps the bit from walking off the .ide of the dowe!.) AOer mounting the bit in the drill press, Ialso marked the centerpoint of the bit on the fenee. Thi., mark is used as an hldex line for the marks on the jig, see Pig. 7. Shop Note: If you don't have II drill press fence, clamp" Sb,ught piece of 2.4 on the drill pre.!S table, then mark an ind...x line. Now driII the holes, ~ .. deep a1 each centerpoint aligning the index line 011 the fence with the reference lines on the jig, After drilling the lop dowel, nip the jig over and drill tho bottom dowel. ASSEMI)LV. AOer drilling, I assembled the gallery rail by gluing the spindl~ into both of the dowels. refer to Fig. 8. WOODSMITH
NOTE: PRESSDOwn AGAINST FEN(:E
( _ .... ,
SUPPORT
STRETCHER OOWEL """"_I
mEN ROU INTO
UPRIGHT
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STRETCHER OOWEL _fOUIl
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DOWElS
2'
~'''-. .. '" --!.:'.. -
1'1.·
/
/ 17'
gos~S(!;UON (tNO Vltw)
1~....
NOTE,
,..,.
ENOSOF nHONSANCt .no MU$l aE RUSH
~ 1 ~..-
NOff,
RGUItI' 7
MAlt!( toni $IDES WfTH SQUAll, ClN'TtItf'OlN1 IS e.nwtfN MA.US
•
•,,
_.
ctNTfJl
SlRefCtlER
oow ... !tAILS
·'.. ·.
z woce
. I
SCitFN
ONOllutn
DECORATIVE STRETCHER OOWEl RAil
NOTE:
SI'INOt,I.S At! AVAIlAILE,
SlE
souaas
ON PAGE 24
CROSS
secnos
9
AGUaf 9
,¥."t ON Tor !ND OF RONT Uf'UGHTS (SEE D!TAll,
.P..ElAII.
AtONT UNIGKl IOnOM (NO .,;. THtouGH HO,,"S
-Gf" or.
IV.·
..L~.__
After the round tenons are cut on the ends
of the stretcher dowels. work can begin on the long upright pieces Cor the easel frame.
•
--/
1-.' ..
@
THE FRAME UPRIGHTS
I
fRONT ....-/
UPRlGHTS
,".-
To make the front uprights (I). I ripped 4/4 stock ('¥,.' actual thickne •• ) IV,' DETAIL wide by 66" long, see Fig. 9. GAUfRY HOlE DRILL HOLl!S. These upri¢lL pieces are joined together to the stretcher dowels by drilling four y,'-dJa. holes in each uprighL Two of the dowel holes are centered and I' from each end, see Detail in Fig. 9. Another hole is located 24'" from the top end of each upright. There is one more bole near the top of .owtlt HOIi AUGH Tor S1'tfTOQ each upright for the bottom do"el oC the DOWB. WITH tof> HOtf gallery rail. To locate this hole, measure the distance between the tenons on the assembled gallery rail, see Detail in Fig. 9. Now drill the eight holes on both front uprights, see Fig. 9. PEG HOL£S. The picture/art Crame. placed OD the easel are supported by "tie pegs." (See Sources, page 24.) Drill 3 series of holes on the front edge of the .P..ElAII. front uprighl>; for these pegs, I!C
TOLAY 0UT~C.t::tt~~~
NOTE:
OIILL \... - PlG HCUS
•- DRP. aNTt:tEO ON THIICI',N£S$ Of UCH WltlGHt
"""",'0
SUPPORT FRAME LEGS
/
®
/
l .... ,·.OH aonOM ENOS
V.· ~-
RGUaf 11
(LOCK
T
'f.-
t'l."
L
,
DOWll
1-•.
.....
CROSS SECllON
LOCI( BAR
OOw.~.~~~_ ..
These two frames are connected with a lock bar (Fl, see Fig. 11. The length oC the
NOTE: DO HOt GlUl Yoo'" oowu. MO fIU.Cl AT n..s TIMt
_.2
00 NOt GfT GWf INTO tCDf.' UP'IOtl'
LOCK BAR
DETAIl (-YIfWl
(WAST'
lock bar is the key to the angle of the easel During the design phase, we determined the length to get an II" angle Cor the easel. This length aloo detAtnnilll>dthe position of the middle stretdler dowel on the support frame. <,Vben the easel is rolded down. the lock bar fiLs over the middle dowel, see Fig. 12.) Since this distance has already been determined, the reverse proc:edure is used to cut the lock bar U) 1ength. That is, cut the lock bar to a rough length of 23", t
10
•
('
Temporarily assemble the easel. as shown in ~'ig.12. Then marl< the position of the notA:hIlO it will fit over the middle dowel. Aller these marks are made, cut off the end oC the lock bar W' beyond the mark, see DeWI in ~~g. 12. ROUND ENDS. Before actually outting the notclt, r "",nded the ends of the lock bar. Thi$ is also done on both ends of tbe uprighL' (0) and leg>;(E). Mark a radius of 1%" on bolh ends of all five pieces. Then out the radius to shape on a bsndsaw. ROUND EDGES. Next, round over the edges of all Jive pieces. [ did this with a ..... round-over bit set 0/0. high to create • modiJied bullnose look. see I·~g.13. CUT NOTCH.Now the notA:bcan be out out. see DeW! in Fig. 12. MARK NOTCH.
BULLNOSE
DETAlt
GWI TlHON ~,__
---_
tH1'O HOU
DIIIV~ Otl TINON WEDGe
•
~
<,
~.SAHOAW.Y txrIA ILNGlK
WEDGED"NON
All of these pieces are asse mbled by gluing the round tenons in the holes of (be uprights. To strengthen this jOint, I cut ke,fs on the ends of the tenons WId tapped in wedges, see Fig. 15. KERF JIG. To eut tho kerfs, r made a simple jig. Drill a W'-din, hole at one end of. piece of scrap, see Fig. 14. Then cut a 4··long kerf down tho length of the scrap. (This creates • "pincher" (·HeeI. on the end of the sersp.) Now cut • kerf into the jig MI'088 Ill. middle of the hole. CUT KERFS.Place n round tenon in the hole in the jig and clamp tllOjig in a vise, sec I·'ig. 14. Then saw 11W'.decp kerf in the end or tbe tenon. CUT WEDGES. Now the wedges can be made. Set the rip rence on the table saw to cu~a strip equal to the t.hidmess of the kerf in the end or the round ~1lO1lS.see Step I in Fig. 16. Then reset the fence to rip strips \4" wide (the diameter of th. round tenons), sec Step 2. Next, cut 'I(,".longpieces off these strips and sand the end. to a point, 11<..., Oetail in Fig. 16.
INTO ICERf
(
OH_ TtNOH URII16
m
FINCt
10 CUT STlI'r_,..,,1
Of_
1
[QUAl TO
,_US
o(COIATlVl
OAUl."
"".
IlETM
(an AWAY VIEW)
MIDOI.f ---
STtEToc.tlt DOWB.
..",-<~_
m
"0
ASSEMBLY
fIDaUy, tho frames can be ,,!;sembled. I started with the support frame. Glue the middle and bottom dowelt! between Ille two support legs (E). Then slide the u>p dowel throUgll the top holeR. The front Cram. i. assembled by first IIliding tbe lock bar (F) over the bottom .tretcher dowel. Theil glue in the Il." locking Pin. see CI'O&! Section in Fig. 11. Now glue the end. or the bottom dowel as well as the middle and the top galle'1' rail between the two front uprights (0). When the frames are glued wgether, UKe a toolllpick to put Il litUe glue in lhe kerfs, and push the wedges in 1'1_. Let the glue dry, then cut tho ends off and sand them flush with the surfaee. FINISH.When everything is a!•• !mbled. I sanded the easel frame smooth and applied two eoats of Wnlt oil """""h. WOOOSMITH
"""" wmGE
NOTE: A$SfM6.LE iU~T
fMM[
ANO
STlllQi£R OOWDS to ON! U".IO!'fJ
"lei,
THIN AnAOf
Ci) loo(
OTHER U'ItIOHT
8AII
"IN I..OCIC
"'liN
PLAC. L
I[
Picture Frame Molding,_s _ HOW TO MAKE TEN CLASSIC PROFILES Making a picture frame ought to be one of the easiest projects in woodwooong. It's just four strips of wood joined with miters. But there are a few eensiderations, First, of course, is the profile of the molded pieces. The easiest way to cut (he profiles is on a router table using standard router bits, At first, we thought. this would limit the variety of profiles we could produce. Wrong. \'ery quickly we came up with about three dozen profiles using jU$t eight standard router bits. (See Sources, page 24.) There are dOZOllS of other options once you ge~ into it. On the following pages, are ten profiles thllt are just a sampling of the profiles you can create. It starts with a very basic molding tJl.~s made by rounding the li.'Qntedges of strips of stock. Then we added variations. When you get down to it, all of these moldings are just variations of Simple TOuter cuts,
thick), a mat (if needed), t,he I)hoto Or print itself, and the backing material. (If you need a deeper rabbet for an oil painting or a piece of needlepoint tJlat's mounted to a stretcher frame, see the alteruarive method ill Talking
Shop, page .22.)
• F~
handling. I usually add a fell' inches to aUow for the snipe (divot) that occurs at the ~l11ing and end of cuts. HOI.J) DOWN. Alter the sbips are cut, the profiles COl" be routed, Th~ key he •.., is to keep uniform pressure on the strips CHOOSING THE WOOD so Ute prnflles are always consistent. Although any wood
For all the moldings, the first step is to cut the stock III initial ebe. This step is critical, The strips must be straight and of uniform width arid thickness. If not, when the profiles are routed there will be uneven contours, and the profiles will not matA:hat the mitered comers, LENGTH$.Before routing any profile, cut t,he strips to size. The basic width and thickness of the stock used for each profile is show" on the following pages. On several of these moldings, at least one strip ls shown as 10/14,l" tih.ick.This is the standard thickness for hardwood lumber. However, all of these profiles will work the same if the stock ts somewhere between :y,.» and lo/ttf. As for length, you just need manageable lengths that are long enough for the finished frame pieces plus enough for easy
12
ROOTING Tlfl'l PROFfl,E. When the strips are pusl,ec'througb the router bit, use a constant rate of feed and be prepared so you don't have to stop at any time. A pause eancreate. dimple 0.' burn mark in the prome. If" profile is. deep one, I usually make one Or two roughing cuts. Then for the final cut, I make a very light pass to elean up the surface. RAllll&TS. All of the profiles include a rabbet on the back side to hold the picture. This rabbet should be at least 11.0" deep to allow for a piece of glass (usually %to
GlITI'lNC RABBElS. Rabbets can be cut a variety o[ ways. WeJre showing them being cut on a router table with a straight bit. 'I'his works fine, except for chipout. When a straight bit is used, the two sides of the rabbet are cut in one pass. The side that's cut by -the top of the bit tends to chip out. ThiS 'Wouldn't be a problem except this is usually the .... corner that fares the picture and is ..visible from the front of the frame. 1'0 avoid this ehipout, there's a trick to cutting rabbets on the router table. Make a light.first pass 1xu;J,.,..",ds, see Step 3 at the top of the next page. Set up the router table to cut a narrow .rabbet (full depth, but only about VI~'wide). Then push the strip through the bit working 5'Qm left to rigbt (rather than the usual procedure of right to left). When using this method, the bit has • tendency to grab the workpiece and pull it forward, so keep your hands out o~ the way and use the grout trowel. This backward cut will produce a clean shoulder. Then complete the rabbet by making another pass at full width. GROOVESAND INLAY$.One more tip. Some of the pl'Qules have inlay snips set into grooves to add to the l)roliJe. It's very difficult to get an exact iit of the strip into the groove, (&th the strip and the groove would have to be cut pe..recUy.) To get around this problem, cut !;he groove ..s normal, but cut the strip just a tiny bit wider than the groove, (It should fit in, but very snugly.) Then very gently taper the sides of tile strip so it wedges into the groove. This taper can be made with one or two passes with a block plane or a hand scraper. The tapered sides of lhe strip will wedge light against the edges of the groove .. Just don't make it too tight or it will split the molding. And, you want it to "bottom out" in the groove so it doesn't have "waves." THE MOLDINCS. On the next five pages \ve're showing a variety of profiles. The firs~page shows a simple rounded profile with two options. Then there are four profiles suitable for larger frames, And finally, three profiles that could be used with 5x7 or 8,,10 photos.
WOODSMITH
This frame a popular look. It's also a good starting
~ROSS SEcnQN
design because of it's basic, uncluttered ror many variations. In this example, the molding begins as a strip of stock '0/,,' square. But it can be ¥,f Square, or 14'"square for verN small frames. The profile is made by rounding over l,\VO edges willl a Y.'1" round-over bit, Steps 1 and 2. Then a rabbet is cut to hold the picture and glnss. To prevent chipout, cut the rabbet in two passes, First, make a bacl.~oord. cut (refer to text at 1.1t) only 11. e'" wide, Then make a full cut V-t" wide to complete the l"'abbet. VARIATION. We also made a wider version with t\VO '4" grooves (Steps 5 and 6) and inserted contrasting strips of wood. is
2
1
ClIt srock to size. Rolmd 0'" edge loitl, ~ ... rtYU11d-over bit.
3
ROUT OPf'OSffE EOG~
The" ''Ol,>Id outer frollt edge Ivilh
*'"
"o'f.'/ta·oV67'
bit,
5
4
Pi,'$!,pass for mbbel i8 a ligilt "backwards" cut (S •• "':tt).
C()mpleJ.6 rab6et by .'OUting to ji,ll1Ui(UJ! ,.Uil, s/,mig/a bit.
6
CROSS SEcnON
'¥',,~
ri.J..
j_"'---'---!-I~
Variation:
Sa.'»~6a8 freme
Oross Section: Srock i. ctu: wider a>ulinlay. are added.
abave except. wider 'Ifill< ;1Ilo.y.
CROSS SECTION
2
C.. t first stnip 1'h,' high.
ROll"d, edges and WOODSMlTH
Cllt
rabbet.
Ct,t scc(md Sfl";ll to fit raiJiJet and Mmd (In. edge.
3
R01tt
ship
4
¥III' g?'OOlJe iu: seao'lld
to accept third strip.
Cut third st.,.;pu"tl TlI:l",d edge. TMI< tn,n to v,: wUW.
13
Although it 1oo1<$ complex. this molding is relatively easy to milk. and yields a dramatic frdllle. It starts out as a strip Io/.{ wide by (or ly.") thick (we USIldcherry), see Cress Section at right. Then ~' and 'h' grooves are routed Ior haIf·round inlay stripe, Stepe I and 2. Alter the grooves are routed, use a ,,{ core box bit to cut • wide cove, making multiple passes to extend it out to the edge of the strip, Step 3. To complete the profile, switch to a W' core box bit On the inside edge, Step 4. Before lidding the inlay stripe, out" rabbet to bold the artwork and glass, Step 5. Then cut two .'tripe (we USIldwalnut), round the edges, and cut orr to form the haIf·round inlay strips.
CROSS SE_CTlON
'v.,'
2
1
3
, '.1; 110·
~~--~--~~i-
Ir---II.-
. , .:
--_"r"~
4
COIIf
.ox
III
c..t
.took UJ size. Ro,d 1/,".
g1'O(1Ve
fin' lwJ[-ro..nd itlloy.
5
Ilo,,,t ¥.~ groov6 for seco"d inlay. Note depth Of groove.
6
ROUND
Make repeated passes .6ith core IxM; bit to eta awe to edge.
7
AU. fDGfiS
IlOUN.
Complete profil" IIY routillg 11,' COt~ on edge of .tock.
8
All EOGES
v.~. IfADi.O INLAY
1'1{'-
.J.
~1.~
t
to\.
, '10-
IIAD£D
R'OUNOOV(I
INlAY
an
Cut rabbet with .tmight bit to ru:cept picture alld glas s.
rup j,,/oll .trip to siz« and ",,",d 0116)' both. ",IU'.'
Large strip is made tlu: same way Oil Ihe router lable.
C,a a Iwl/'TUI",dstrip off both edgeJI 'lIld gt,.. inlo groolJC8.
If
CROSS_~~gIO_"
you WlUlt to add color to a frame, paint one of the strips. We painted the inside strip on this molding with gOld leaf paint to hij(l1lillht the inside edge. This mokling is mild. by joining two strips. The outside .trip starI8 out (or -Y.") thick by 1'11i(wide. OVe USIld w1IInut for this strip.) Then the edges are rounded with a W' reend-ovee bit, (St.<:pI). and a rabbet is cut to hold tbe second strip, Step 2For the second strip we USIldpop1ar (wbieb aorepts paint well). This strip iii out square t<) lit the rabbe~ en the .first strip. Then a Y{ eave is out on one comer. Step 3. Finally. a rabbet is out in it to hold the picture and glass. Step 4.
'v.,'
1
Rou.ut .ver both edgCfJof strip with ~. round-over bit.
14
2
3
C.,I rabbel "" first strip In Mild .""",d slrip ilt pl«c~.
Second strip is out ItI.18 '..1."
I !
--..\. ,._
,.,_.y....__..
4
, .....
t;QV6
'A.'
SqI«U'$ 011(1
on ous corner.
Rabbet i$ Cld 10 IIoid picture. TI.. " slrip i. IlIJ.j·)lttdgold. WOOOSMITH
U wally frdl1les have a profile thnL tapers down to the picture on the inside edge. Th;' one takes the opposite approach. The
t:ROSS SECTION
r ''''11" 'Tf---
profile sOOI'"up from the outside edge to create something like" shadow-box. Agnil1. thill molding is 111<)(le with two strips. The outside strip starts with • 0/1' flute, Step 1. Then II 0/.' round-ever bit is 1L'Ied to create an ogee curve with a shoulder, Step 2. To mount the second piece a groove is cut (Step 3), and then the outside edge is cut off to create a rabbet, Step 4. The ...,.,00 strip starts with a W' nute, Step 5. Then use a ~'l'Ound-<>verto make the ogre profile (Step 6) and round over the top edge, Step 7. Firuilly, trim the strip to fit the rabbet.
1
'INCe
2
3
rf
",'
L---'-r'-'_.t_
1". ... ·-
4
ROUT GROOVE
IN TWO'A$$£S
.. '.
,7 __
."
I(NO!
111M 10
""'"
_".
ST.AIGHT
CORi80X
c..t 0. -Ii,' flsit«
SAW SIADt!
.,1
elT
alo/lg Ih_
Then use a
.tj"fIf
ro,,1Ukwer bit
o"l~j""edge of Ik. ji ...t .trip. to cmlte an agee profile.
5
6
U8e a straight bit 10 Tf)l(1 0 to /told s=nd strip.
C"I off UtO adgc 0/ .Irip to
7
8
To comp~tethe ._"d .trip. TO,wd OtICr th~ IQp edge.
F;1I41Iy. trim strip
create ml>belot. '/I$id, edge.
gr60IX
TlOMTO
.......
WilTH
,..''
ROUNOOYtIt lit
S«<»rd strip sian. with (} ,,,.
J1l1t~on tne edge of 81ri".
Tlum a 14- rof("d-OlJ(r:r bit i8 ,
gQSS s£gIOJ~
\vny to c.'Cut.c.a smooth conten'I)OI'8ty look is to round over all the e>dge8 t.o let the pieces now together. This frame is really a variation of the frame shown at the top of page 13, except One
with a eoved piece added to widen the whole frsme .. The extru width is niter for ~r prints or artwork. Once again. this molding starts by rounding over both edges of the strip, Step I. Then cut a 'Vo,' (or rabbet to aeeept the second strip, Step 2. To make the wide cove in the second strip, use a ¥.!" c..'OI'C box bit and make 8u(.'(.,'()f:Sivepasses to widen the cove out to the edge of the strip, Stell 3. P;1llllly, rout a ra bbet to accept Ill. picture nnd gllI..4.
.",."
%.,
2
3
dol,·., to fit
rebbet, otld glue itl. place.
'\
J_·L--f~~'~_~vJl-:·i'
1.-"1"--
4
ROUIIH
..
stVtW PASSlS
..~~ COQIOX lit
Rout both edgea
of f".1 .trip
witlt ~ .. round-ot.-n- bi.t. WOODS~UTH
Tit-en CILt a I¥,," (or ~ ..) robOet to <=C»t f(((IIrd strip.
Second ttrip has wide cere .,Uldt wilh .,~
~.
I
Seeoud strip i. tg robbet for ~
by
.." .
15
CBOSS S£CIJON
The three rro""", shown on this page are designed for small frtlmes ($x 10 or ~ma1Jer). The first one starts out as a square strip. ('IV.·ro showing '.y.,( square, but it could 00 %" or even smaller ror .mall photos.) Use a !/So" round-over bit to round both edl(e'\ Ie.\\'ing a ~" shoulder, Step I. To create the double round effect, make another"",", on both edges with the '4" round-over bit, Steps 2 and 3. Then cut the rabber for the photo. Step 4. VARIA110N. The same basic frame takes on " \'etj. traditional look by oukling a burl veneer to one edge of the strip (which adds about Yu" to the heiJlht or the strip), Then round the edges with • Mo" round-ovcr bit, lca,oing a Yo," >illoulder, Step 5.
1
2
""
4
3
MaS I£NCE
',.'
,.'
Round oogeJJ ",ith ';." ,owtd. over, leaVi11!J 'hOI slwuldtr.
.....
Rolate strip 900 u"d ro""d r;lIollJdcr U/I'IJ, saffle hit.
(Jl'tr
5
roU1ld over other sh.oldder.
Cut ra.llbel Q<:C1Ipt
6
ADO VlHl£R
STa1P '£fOal ROUTING
RoIale sbip 10oilier edge altd
0" ba(k cdge 1<) plwto alld gla$$.
C!!.OSSSEgOI!!
. h,.,..,.,..,....,-rl , IN"" ItOONOOVlR, lIlT
J Vi.-
SHOUlO£lt
Variation: Add /n"t vcoeer US" 'I/' ro""d·ou"r on bol/, .dges. leauillli ,/,/' .hOIl/dol·. to .trip and rtilUtd oogC$.
Complek>strip by Y(fU!.i1ly""b· bet 011 back edge.
Cross Section: Burl. ve/leer adds about 'h," 10 tllicklle88. CROSS SECTlQf!!
Even on small I'rnlllCII you can add a second strip that's painted or .. made !'rom a eontrastlng wood. In this case, the first strip is only
1(," wide. ReO Cross Section at right. Then both top edges are rounded with a 'It round-over bit, Step 1. To add the second strip. a groove L, routed with a Y," strnight bit, Step 2. To make the second strip. rip a strip y," thick by about I" wide, Step 3. """n use • 'Ii' eore box bit to rout a small rove on the edge, k:a\ing a ttl'· shoulder above the CQ\·e. FinaU~r. trim this strip down toW wide
2
1
3
"..
, J
-~.· .... l.·1--f.
4
,.
"'0
RNISHH)
-..
WID'"
'
... SA.WIlAOf
Cut .trip 'I," wide Wid rowtd over boU, lop edges.
16
/)il
0''00"'
willi. 'h" straight to lIo/d tlw ."eolld strip.
ellt
C.d ,,,"-tJdtk
8eCOlul
strip and
caLL cove lui-fit, 1/'1/' S/14ft-lller.
Rip _ltd .'rill -Y/, wi
WOODSMITH
,
Desk Frame GIVE IT YOUR BESTSHOT process.) And glue the frame pieces
We W8ntOOto build. self·slMding frame - without. uNihg one or those cardboard back. with the hinged flap. Aftera ~UI~experimenting, we came up with a \\'&y to mount. the ftrune to a s mall angled base. T11Ctrick is
t-o
together. GROOV&. When the frame is dry,
rout • """·wide groeve centered on the bottom edge for the key. I cut this groove on the router table u$ing .tol>" on We fence to limit tbelength of the groove, see Fig. 3. (The groove should stop Vo' from the outside edgtlS o[ the frame.) Rout. in successlvely deeper passes until the bit cuts through we groove on the inside edge of the frame. (Ket>p this set-up for routing the matehing groove in the base.) THE IlASB.To make the base, I ~imply ClIt a 10' bevel on a block of wood . see Fig. 4. (Note: For safety. start with a block about l2" long. and cut it to final lengtll after the bevel i. eut.) Next. I cut a groove to match the one in the bottom of the frame. U"" the same set-up (with the stop blocks) on the router table to rout a
CUI.n groove in the
bottom of the frame and a matching groove in the i>as4>. Then join the two "ith a key. refer 10Fig. 1. This groove-and-key trick solves
the problem
of supporting the
frame. and it also provides a wIlYto slide the photo and gIa..
To make this frame. you have to eut, the molding strips • ~ttlediIl'erently than those shown on the previous ~. The molding for this n-ame starts a strip Mo" thick by ' Yo'" (or 0/.") wide, see rig. 2. (It can be even wider if you want a diIl'enlnt proliJe on the molding.) GROOV&. Then, Instead of cutting' a rabbet in the molding strips, 1\ gl'OOve is routOO down the inside edge to hold the picture and glass. The width of the groove is determined by adding the thickness of the gllls.< (%."), tho pheto (Mot,,), and the b;lCking (V",,). fol' u total of 0/••.
I'"
fIGU"
I
NOTe:
IlW.EN$IONS GIVEN ARE
PROt'lLe P.DGES.After the groove is Oil the edges. III this
cut, rout the profile
ease, we used a 'I... round-over bit to round over all rour edges. see Fijr. 2. ~trrBR PRA.ME.Now
miter these mold-
ins: stril>" to length to lit around t.he photo. (See the article on page 20 for tip. 011 wis
v......deep
,......
ROUTEa
U8(l
n
V.
f 1
t:::.5 ,'1,.-----1
groove, see Fig. 5. Then
I0I0"round .. ve r bit to ease the edges. THE KEY. Now. to join the frame to the base. rip a key Yo' (to fit the width of the l.'I'OOv•• ) by (to mateh (l,e total depw of beth grooves.) Then round the ends to match the groov es, ItOUT 1.INrI. &It CUTS INfO tNSlOe GROOvr
~~
RNa
fOIl.'
"eTUt rs
\
2
PETAII
aNlB GltOOYf ON THIQCHE$$ OF srodc
.
IIA$'
...
ISCUY
Tom
GROOVES
\VOODSMITH
17
Miter Jig
_
TAKING THE PAIN OUT OF CUTIING MITERS In order to cut molding pieces to make 0 frome, there are two basic criteria. f'irst, the ends of all picces must be mitered at eXllctly 4,,·. And, like pieces of lb. fram. (lb. toplbottom, and the two sides) must be exnelly lb. same length. The clI8iest way to accomplish bolb tasks is to buDd a miter jig. The jig I use """ two fences for cutting the miters at 45·, and an ad,iust.ab1estop block for cutting the pieces to exacI. lengths. THE BASE
To make the jig. begin by cutting a base out of ¥.. cabinet grade plywood. 'lJ1' x 24·. Timjig cuUI ~5""'lion 011 IIl1J1ding ~rip8lor For 1M 8«tJ1td eut, 118<0~ Itflce. pU3i!i'lil The jig is guided on the table picture frames. The jint Cld it made on (lU (he fim .IId ogai"03! lit< 3top block to 3d tengfh. saw with a guide runner. To pi«e8 with the 1I!oldj"9 (l{f
.pllO.....
ffiR~~mR~'~~--------------------------' HAlIOWOOO RUNN(A
DI:TAlL
'Vl' SQUARE SflAC!RS, ~ .. fHICk
®
FIRST CUT
FtNCE
\... -I 'h" SQUARE STOCK
18
WOODSMlTH
STOp·BLOCKPENCE.There's on. more fence to attach. Use a ~tfaightedge to align the stop-block fence (C) with the S!!OOnd· cut fenee, see Fig. 4. Allow a $V.· space between the two fences to create a gap for the molding pieces, refer to photo. TlUM ENDS. 'Vhen the fences are positioned, 1 added screws to secure them in place. Then place the jig 'on the saw and cut off the ends that, are hanging over the rigbt edge. STOP BLOCK At this PQint the fences IU" aligned to cut perfect 45" angles. MI that's needed is a stop blQCk.I made the stop block (0) from a piece of %"·thick stock cut to width to match the height of the fences, see Fig. 5. CIJ'l' CIlAMPERS. After cutting the stop block to size, cut 45° chamfer's on the ends, see Fig. 5. These chamfers hold the end of the workpiece with the iil'St miter as the second miter is cut, refer to photo. I also cut a small notch on the heel of each chamfer to act as a sawdust relief. To hold the stop block against the fence, I drilled a counterbored bole for a 0/". carnage bolt. (Xle sure the hole is aligned with the slot on the sto[),block fenee.) BLADECUAR.I).'rhe last slep is to attach a blade guard (E) along the light edge of the jig, see Fig 6. Cut. piece of stock with 45° miters on both ends and glue it to the base, flush with the right edge. TIl'S. For some tipa on USing this miter jig, see tbe article On page 20.
FlGUR£3
AUGN WITH SECOND CUT KNeE
) @FlRSlCUT
!
flGV.ItE S
STOP BLOCK
@)
HEIGHT SAME
stcrne "",e
AS
ARM MITER JIG The sam" problems, exist on a radial ann saw as on-a table saw. You have to cut 4[j' miters, and like pieces have to be·lhe same lengtb. One of the biggest llroblenlJl is aligning the radial arm to exactly 45". The solution is to build a jig without moving parts and make straigh~ cuts with the saw. To build 'the jig, I cut the 16"x 24" base from o/,j' plywood, see. Fig. 1. FENCES. Then there are two fences, a righlrhand fent.. (Used to make the ill'St mitel' cut) and a. Ieft-halld fence (used to make tbe $CeOlJd-eul). Both fences are cut 2"-wi
Then draw a line down the outside of glue dries, screw tlll' fences to the base. the triangle for the leJl;,hand fence. .Flip MOUNTJIG. To prevent the jig from the triangle over to make another 45° line shifting position, r drilled holes and sefor the ,ight.-halld fence. cured if to the table with hex bolts. i';ou ALIGN !'ENG£$. To make sure the.fences could also clamp the jIg to the table, stay at 90" to each other, [ set a framing USINGTHE JIG. To use tJ,e jig, cuL the square along the reference lines with the firs miter on one end of all pieees with the corner on the ,-erei"nee point, and clamped stock tight against the right.-hand fence. it to the base, Then clamp a stop block to the letlrhand To position the fences, place the enda of. fence. Now position Ufe fil'$t mite" c~l each fenee aL the 2" marks on the outside tight into the chamfered end of the stop of the framing square. Then glue and block, and cut all pi~ to the correct clamp the fen..,. to the base. When the length. see IJ'ig. 2.
~,_;:--c=----r---::::::;::
ANGLES
I'Jl,et cutting the fences, I laid
them out on fbebase. To do th~, first draw a renter line on the base, see Fig. J. Then measure down 3" from tbe top of the base and. mark a centerpoint. ('),'h~ is a reference point for laying out the angle of the anns.) IJSE 1'RIANG(.E. Now, to position the fences, lay a 46' irIangle On' the base with the 48' angle carner seL on ~he reference point, $ee Fig. L WOO1)SMITH
•
90'
RIGHT HA~
,.-
fft(cE
NOTE, OONT CUT TOO
FAR tNTO JiG
19
Frame Details TIPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR A PERFECTFRAME Making the molded pieces for ~ picture frame is only bnlf the fun, The other bnlf is cutting the four frartle pieces with perfect miters. The challenge, of course", is to create a frame with no gnps at the comers, Okay, then why do gaps always seem to appear in the miters? Gaps in the mitered comers of a frame can be a result of four things: 1) the miters may not be cut at extU:Uy 45"; 2) the oPP<>llitepieces in the frame aren't =tJ.y the same length; 3) the pieces wer-en'b "_lampe
UP THE SAW
to cut miters is pretty easy. The first thing to consider is the saw blade, When cutting miters, I use a carbide-tipped crosscut blade. Combination blades are nice most of the time. But I use a crosscut blade with 60 or 80 teeth (such as the Freud thin kerf LU88M or LU85M) to cut miters. These blades make nice smooth cuts that are easier to glue. S£T BLAD&' Even with a »OI'fect blade, you can still have problems. Wl)en the blade is mounted, check it with a try square to make sure it's exactly 00' to ~he top of the table. The procedure we use
CunlNG THE MITERS
When the saw is set up, work can begin
on mitering. the frame pieces to length. But this is 'lIJ~just a matter of cutting 45'
MlT£R JlC. 'rhe basic _procedUl-e is to cut a 45° miter on of au pieces [Jl:S(' Then tbe otl,el' end is mitered to fum! length. You have several ways to go here. The. miters can be made with the miter gauge on a table saw or
0"" ."d
on a radial ann saw, Either way,
miters, There are Iwo critical measuremeats he..." The miters must be 45', 'q"d ~he opposite pieces of the frame (t'he two sides, and the_topibottom) must be exactly the same length. The procedure I follow has a lot to do with this second criteri a, Often too much attention is paid to the 45' angle, But if opposite pieces 31." not. emcllll the same length you have effectively changed the join~ angle, and there will be gaps even if the miters are cut at exactly 45'. ROVGH LENGTH. J start by cutting aU the molding stock to rough length. Working with shorter pieces is always easier,
'1'0 determine
the rough
length,
measure the outside dimensions of the
photogtaph or pmnt you're framing, AlsO measure the widllt of the molding stock, Now 3(ld t\vice the width or the molding stock to the dimensiollj; of the picture, and add at least I" extra to give yourself some
room to work.
T£S1' l'I'A1\1£, Afte,· all of the pieces are cut to rough length, you can cut the miters.
However, it's always best to start with some S
you can have problems because the markings On miter gauges and radial arms an' notoriously inaeeurate. I've fOW1{l that it!s worth it to build a 'miLer jig, see page 18, FIRST CUT. tf you're using Ute table saw jig, the first cut is made by 'holding the inside edge of the molding against the '''first;·cut'' fence of the miter jig, see Fig, 1. Hold it with a flrm grip so the piece doesn't slid. dwing the cut, and pull the jig back before releasing your gill>. If you're using a miter gauge, hold the inside edge of the molding against the face of tile gauge. The cut is made SO the long point of the miter leads through the saw blade, just as in Fig. L F£eD RA'J'E..A slow, steady rate of feed works best. If you go too fast, there's a greater chance that the workpiece will slip. JuSt hold it steady and let the teeth do the cutting. After making each cut, don't let the strap pieces collect near saw blade, I clear them away with • long stick. S£OOND MlT&1l. After the first miter is cut on the ends of all the pieces, the second mite!' can be marked. This determines the final length of each piece However, it's not the overall length of each piece that counts, itls the length of the rabbet on the inside edge of eacll piece. The-second miter must be cut so the photo 01' print (or mat) fits between the inside edges of the '.'Ubl>el$, To mark this length, lay a ruler in the rabbet of one frame piece, see Fig. 2. The second miter is marked off on the inside edge of the rabbet so the measurement
tl,.
fIGURE'
STOPtll~
lEHGTHOf
(
PICtU~E:_) PlUS v,.'"
I
A1JGN P£NCI~
MARkwnH SAWTOOJ'H
20
WOODSMlTH
,
equals Olesize of the picture you're fram- joint. Keep it at least 00" away from the because nailing can break the glue jOint. ing plus Yi~"extra, e(1ge$ so it won't 007..e out, onto the faces Deciding U)Mre to nail is a. "no-win" The most common problem here is to of the molding. situation. ITyou nail through the top and makemarks on all Cour pieces and then try CLAlIIPING UP. After the glue is applied, bottom of the frame and then bang the to cut exactly on the marks. This is almost quickly clamp up the four sides of the frame on the wall, you won't see the nau' impossible to do. frame. There's a tendency to overtighten from the sides, But I usually .."iiI on the The miter jig is designed to eliminate here. Whatever clamping method you use, side of lhe frame (81,<1 fill the nail holes this problem by using a stop block so two apply just enough pressure to get- the with putty). Then. When the picture is pieces can be eut, to exactly the same miters to close up. hung on the wall, there's more scppcrr fo)" length. If you're using-a miter gauge, add NAllS AND SPLINES the joint. a auxiliary fence to it so you C"dJ1 clamp on When nailing, 1 use as small a brad as a stop block. Once the frame is gtued up, does it need possible (Small gauge, not small length). CUT SECOND MlTEIto To set up ror the any additional strength? That depends. On large frames that require larger nail_, second cut, hold the moldiugstrip so the On small frames (8xJO and smaller), [ predrill the hoies, It'" less like~v \0 Sl,lit out'lide edge of the mol!lingis against, the usually don't add any additional support the wood or break. the joint. "second-cut" renee en the jig, or facing the a.i'b;l' gluing. However, on larger, heavier SPLlNE·S. Splines (scmebimes called miter gauge. frames, there's more weight and stress on Ieathe rs ) can abo add sb-ellgth when inMove the molding up to the saw blade the joint. Nailing (or adding 8 spline) helps sertcd into a groove cut .","IG.IT you decide to nail the frame teatber them w,til they meet right at the on both pieces of the frame. If you're togetJH!.1·, there are a couple or choices, joint line. building a rectangular frame, you will with some clamp.', you can' nail it while If there are any slight g~ps in the have to _<\iust the stop block for tlie it's in the clamps. r like to wait until tbe miters, I don't us'!'llly nil them with wood other two pi~es. glue sets and then clamp each C0111er down putty. 'this will jus~ emphasize the gap When this cut is made, the small waste to a bench or holdit in a vise when nailing. instead of hiding it. To mount the picture. scraps will sometimes be ca\lght by the Whichever method, 00 sure it's secure, 1 use the procedure explained below. blade and thrown ouL Feed slowly and 1------------------------------; always stand to the lett of the blade. DRYASSE.mu;. AlUlr the secono the back of the frame, 'I'hen run a tbin joints 'fit tJght on the serap I)ieces,the real ,NAIL IN PLACE. I use 'I,' bratl. behind bead of yellow glue around the back edge molding pieces can 00 cut. the hackipg to hold everyO)ingin tigl,t. If of the frame and press the paper down. the u=e is made ,vilh soft wood, you call Next use a Spl"3:\t mister or damp sponge ASSEMBLY PI""" the brl\ds ill with needle-nosepliers. to moisten the paper weD. Keep the frame After the miters are cut, a..'8embl¥can With harder woods, it's easi.. · to use a back-sideup unm the paper and glue dry. begin. Tilere 81-e a wide vruiety of frame ~peciaJ 1001called a Brad Point Nailer. (A hail" dryw 'speeds it along), 'When jt'!.!. clamps and m,ethods (see page 22). No (About $10 in most mail orde.· ca~Qgs.) dry, the papel"shrinks up drum tight. matter whichclampyou use. it's important .:).nothermethod for pressing the brads HANGIT UP.Tbe only thing left is to that all,four corners be glued at IJ'e same info place \ISe5 Clumnel-(,oclt pliCl"S, see hang up the frame. For a heavy I time. art belo\v.'1'0 prev~nl m..mnl!' the f.=e, use two picture hangers and wrap picture you try to glue one $Orner at a tim~ place a piece of cardboard on the outside wire. ,through tile loops, see drawing and then work around the frame, there edge of the u-ame. Then set the ,vidth of below. It puts IIijlSsl.J'e$son the joints to hang a frame this way thai) from the lop. will undoubtedly be a gap by the time you Ihe pliers and squ... .e th~ b•-ad in place. Filuilly, [ glue rubber bumpers at the get to the last comer. By gluing them all 8ACI,mG. When eveeyOllngis in place. at the same time, the gap will 00 spread I CClver the hack with bl"OWl1l)Oper to""ake bottom to keep the llictw" from shifting. out even1y on all four COl-net'S GLUING. J use yellow (aliphatic) glue (such as Titebond) when joining frames. If there's a problem ,vitl1 yellow glue, ieg that it dries quickly, especially 011 the end grain of miters. The procedure ( use is to apply the glue in little dots or lines. Don't spread it out thin (as when gluing tl()gegrain) or it will SO;Ut down into the end grdin and ell")' almost immediately. Since t"e glu. is going on a little heavier in the lines or dots, put the glue on only one side of each
MOUNTING
1'1""',,',
n
WOODSMlTH
21
,
T_a_~_m_gSho~
_
SOME TIPSFROM OUR SHOP SWEL1.ING.For Ihe same reason, if the
DEEPER RABBETS
Since we used 4/4 stock (¥,- to ·V..... actual thickness) to make the fmme. shown on pages 13- 16. we w ere somewhat linrited on the
The rabbet may not be deep enough. Illoo.gh, if you're planning to mount an oil painting or needlework that', al rea dy wrapped around a stretcher frame. A stretcher frame il!!elr tan be .,.. thick. You also have to add the thickn""" or the fabric and allow room ror to hold the stretcher frame in place.
,.uh<
ADD BACK FRAME. To
FRAMe
~erAlt N." "';_..h,~"L STltITCHe. I,' '.A.MI'N
.... ce
When building the hack frume I cut the pieces to width and l.nRlh so the back frame is inset y,' from all or the .d~. or the main I'rame. I also taper the ouu.id. edges or the hack I'rame in toWlll"ds the center. This dresses the rr.une up lind shows beuer if someone looks at it rrom the side. OPEN MITERS
Why do mitenl on a pi
P""""'
22
--
SWtWNG
1101\'. Il'", preb-
lem, you call create a deeper rabbet by building. second rrame (without " rabbet) and sere,\, it to the. buck of the rn~linfhJmc.
MA'N
two pieees .hould klI.>J1I (sueh as on a humid (lay), the inslC'lecomer "ill remain tight, but • gnp tan open up on the o,""ide corner, see drawing. (This is less likely though. Moro frnmes seem to dry out when th<:heat is turned on in the winter.)
SPECIALPLIERS.Oponing up the rings is a trick. They're so strong that you need • special tool that works lik. a pair or snap-ring' pIi.... to "proad th. ring open. And the tool is expensive - about $10. To save this expense. you can make the pIi.... out or some sera p wood. rour seeews, a bolt. and • spring. see photo. (Note: We're offering the rings as well "" the hardware and pIan., ror making the pliers, see Sou rees, page 24.)
WIIAT CAN 8B DONe? Is there any \\'ay to prevent a gal) fi"Omdeveloping? First or aU, be. aware that the wider a frame is, the more it can swell 01' shrink. J have 8r..ame that I built about 16years ago {tOm some :!'.\\ride pine tnolding. When 1 builtthe Ih'IIle. the miters were light" Ove r the yenrs, gal10lof '/ur have opened up. Not only waa my pine molding wide. it \Vl,,~n't very dry when r eut, the Irame pieees, It'. best to .tart out wilh wood that has been (hied down to under 9% moistu(e content. {If you specify kltn-dried 113l"dwQO(I. it'l' lL"uaUy under 9%.) f'inally. .,. mentioned in the articl. on pagcs 20-21, you may want to add extra support (nails or splin",,) to • wide frame. This can help rosi.'
SPRING ClAMPS
A PROBLEM. AllhOugh Ih ese !'ing clamps are on. of my r.vo,il<, methods f,U' holding mite ..., there's one problem with them. The rings lire SO powerful they leave slight indentatlons in the ~i(lcij or the frame. These can be filled with a liltle putty. 01",if you're nailing the frame nlWr the glue dries, you can delve the n:ul~ill at these points. FOUR-CORNER CLAMP
Once it'~ set to the correct size, one or the easiest Cr.uning clamps to use is a fourcorner clamp. This clamp has four corner blocks thaI are connected by threaded rods and thumb nuts. The rods run around the outside or the frame and fit into thread<'II holes in the blocks.
Every time I gel • woodworking catalog in the muil there's some new kind of clamping system rOt frames, While work· inK on the framing art:icles ror this issue. we decided to take • look at throe popular
rrame clamps on the m.meL
The basic clamp will hold r..ames UI) to 24" by 24', but you can buy a 1"'1-~' ""t thaI includes more rods ami couplers to clamp up to 48" square. WOODSMITH
t)1
The advantage of this clamp t. that once the clamp is set up fol' the frame YOIl'r(!gluing, the pieces are e.'lSYto set. into the corners. Oue disadvantage is that, the clamp doesn't apply the pressure toward the cellte,. oHhe frome - that'~ the best kind of pressure when gluing up all four comers at the same time. ADVANTAGE.
DISADVANTAGE.
BAND ClAMPS
Band (or web) clamps can be used to apply even pressure around frames or just about. any size as well as irregularly-shaped frames and projects. Traditional band clamps (on left in photo) are made of nylon webbing and usually include meta) 900 corners (01' cL'Inlping up frames. (The corners can dent the frame .if they're tigbtened too much.)
SHOP-MADE FRAME CLAMP We develo~d the [111m.clamp shown here all' an alternative to eommetl:)al clamps. It'. made from fcur-blocks CO,",ect;ed with thr..ade<)1'0(1. ~You can buy \II. hal'dware locally. We'". also of(eling the hnrdware and blocks iu l
AS$KMlll.Y.Now 8Ssem~le the fixtW'l! by Hlippil\g ~ 36"·long piece or V," threaded ..od through the oadoe.. Then add wing nuts 011 belth ensL'" U$I!«GTIlE Fll\l·lIRE. To use the fixture, I always start. by w,,"xing the to)) of the blocks to keep the fl'3!lle (rom sticking if any glue oozes out (If the miter. Then Jay the bJoo.ksdown on n Da~'swfaee so the threaded rods Ct08S each ot.her in an 4IX.J'!, (Nole: Unless the frame is square, the
holding a frame (refer to !i·ig. 4). the dadoes on tlVo'of thll"hl~ks can't align with the dadoes on the othe~ two blocks. $0 when 1 built up the corner btecks, 1 built two diff.~nl ""Is of blocks, see Fig. J. To make the blocks labelled "A", glue three pie<.'
It takes SOme JOCkeying 1U'OWtd. [ found tha~ cutling a piece of scrap plywood the same ~i7A)as the frame hEllI)<; iIlilihlly nlign the bloclql, see Fig. 3.
tJ,.
FRAMf ClAMP SOURCES
ttl 9
"'ilb this fixrods have- to cross in the center when ~ul'C. the piOOC$don't automatically align.
I.".
Recently the re have been a number of hand clamps intrcdueed that "'>9 a steel strap (like the ''Merle'' clampon th.• light) or heavy web that's threaded through large metal or plastic corners and then tightened down with a' SCJ.'Ilw handle. (The excess strapping or web is held in a device that ... minds me of a fishing reel.) ADVAN'l:AGE, »ISADYANTAG£. The advantage of 1111 of the band clamps ill the unifonn pressure ~Oll can bring to bear 011 all four- comers of ttle rr..me. As long as the miters are aU CU& to 45", tlle band automatically pulls the joints cI~ as it tightens lind forteS the cornel'S 5qUID"e. MO!;tof the prolilems I've hall with band clamps have to do with 011the e.'ce!;$ band y,ou have. \\1hen \\'ol'king on a s:maU frame. The excess band, and the screw hlllldles and lal'gC contel'S on the newer st-yles, elln get in the w·.y, especially if you·... assem· bling a small from •.
rods won't cross
f,,,,,,.
St.... Ill' WITH PLYWOOP.
Once the blocks lit tigl1l around (he plywood, toosen the wing nuts $Ughtl)< (olli> turn ea<:h) and lilt out the plywQod. Then toesen One wing' nut until it's backed off about 1(," from Lb. block. see Fig. 4. G~UE UP 'RAM!;;.Now '!Pply glue to the miters on two of the frame pieces. Then set this come.. in pillce so it1~(>PJ)l>8ii. the teosened block. N..xt glue the l"emaininIJ three corners an« set the pieces in place, NOWslide tbe "loose" block in aJ>(!tigh~n all the wjng nuts. Ar"". everything is in place, cl1eck each corner Of the Crame (0 be SlII'e (he joints ~ t'~t\ Don't overtighten. Just b.1ng lheni tog~tIJe,. qntil the j~int closes up. One more thing. We found thnt this clamp works best Ior squlU'C frames 0,. tboRe thaL aI'I! close to sqlla.'(! (5x'7 and Ss 10). (~·s harder to hold lOng. reetanguJal' or odd·$haped r,..,,,(!S tig)" ih this
FIGURE 1
POsmOH Of OAOO£S f1GU11f"3
sew
USE Pr£a: Of PlYWOOD TO tNITlAUY AlIGN 8loclcS
All of the frame cIan'ps listed .bove .re sold by: GA1IR>''TT WADE COMPANY.
INC" 161
AveDue of t.be Americas. New York, NY 10013-1205;800.221·2942. WOOOCRAt'T.41 Atlantic Ave .• Box 4009, Wobw,., MA 01888; 800-225·1153. The Merle Corner Clamp is sold by: 'IWS. ~TD, P. O. 53, Rydal, PA 19046:
800·533·9298.
WOODSMITM
cUt·saAr TO SAME sttE ASflIAME
23
Sources 0/,.
STEP STOOL
Wood.milll. is offering all of the hardware needed to build th-e step stool. Step Stool Hardware, Order No. 760-110, $6.95, This Irncksgeincludes: • (l pair) Solid Brass Hinges, 1'I," long, 2' open width, with screws. • (1) Brass Chain, 12" long, with Lwo No. 3 x !!(" roundhead brass SCl-eWS. • (1) Brass-Plated Elbow Cateh and Strike Plate, screws, nail included. DISPLAY EASEL
Woodsmilh is also offering the hardware needed to build the displ;ly easel, pisplay Easel Hardware, Order No. 760-210, 88.95. Thls package includes: • (12) Birch Gallery Spindles, 2%" ove n..n length. • (2) Birch TIe Rack Pegs, 2>',,' long, fit 0/,," hole. • (1) r Brass Turn Button with No. 3 x v.," Ph Brass Woodscrew. ROIITtR BITS FOR MOLDINGS
All of the picture fi-ame moldings shown On pages 13-16 are made with only eight router bits. We are offering these t>its
individually or as a set with either y.."
shanks or v,,' shanks. (We recommend v.," shank bits jf your router collet will accept them.) All of the bits a", heavy-duty, earbidetipped steel. We use these same bits in the Wood$!»ifh shop. 0;." &traight Bit, '10.. cutting length, single Oute (VI' shank only).
• y," Shank, No, 271-003, $9.95. Y-l' Straight Bit, two flutes. • \II' Shank, 1" cutting length, No. 271-625, $10.95.
• v,"
Shank, :y,;" cutting' length. No.
2'7,1-005,$12.95.
';." Straight Bi4 two flutes. • y,." Shank, I" cutting length,
No.
271-613,~12.95.
• v.,"
Shank, l' cutting
271·676, $12.95. '/$It Round-Over
length,
No.
Bit (sometimes
called a comer-rounding bit). • v." Shank, No. 2'71-811, $23.95. • 'It Shank, No. 271-821, $26.95.
';'" Round-Over Bit. • '.4" Shank, No. 2'71-814, $23.95. • 'f.Shank, No. 2'71-823, $24.95:
0/.• '.4"Round-Over Shank, 271·817, $24.95. Bit.
No. Shank, No. 2'71-826, $25.95. y," Core Bo" Bit (sometimes called a roundnose bit). • '.4' Shank, No. 271-721, $21.95. • Yo' Shank, No. ZU·W, $25.95.
• '10'
24
Core Box Bit. • '.4" Shank, No. 2'71-724, $22.9,. • 'h' Shank, No. 2'71·733, $29.95. Set of Eight Bita (listed above). • '!.o' Shank, No. '/60-300. Total price if -the bits are purchased separately: $.tI;I.60. Price for the se~ of all eighb bits: $134.95 • v,' Shank, Order No. 760-400. (Note:
JAi" Stl tlight o
Bit. \vill have '/4"
shank.) Total price if the bits are
purchased separately: $169.60. Price for the set of all eighL bits: ~149.95. CROSSCUT BLADE
In the article on making picture n-ames, we mentioned the importance of having a good crosscut blade fol' c-uttingmiters. The one we use is a thin kerf Freud LU88M. You can find this blade at many woodworking stores and in mail order catalogs,
or you can order it through Wood8milh: Freud LU88M Saw Blade, thin kerf (.!J90 inch), 10:' dia,, 60 teeth, '1'(' bore, Order No. 226-115, 889.90. fRAME CLAMPING JIG
On page 23, we-showed plans lfor a shopmade jigIOI' clamping picture frames. Most of this is standard hardware; but if you caD't find it locally we are offering all or the hardware as a kit. Another kit .is available thnt includes the hardware and pre-drilled maple blocks. Frame Clamping Jig Hardware., Order No. 760-610, .$9.95. Includes: • (2) Threaded Rods, W' x 36'. • (4) ;1,' Wing Nuts. • 'At" Dowel Red, 36" long. • M," LD. Plastic Tubing, 8" long. Frame Clamping Jig, Wood and Hardware, Order No. 760-620, $24.95. This package includes; • All of the hardware listed in No.
760-610 (above). • Four Hardwood Blo.cks measuring 2Y.i" x 8M," x 4'. Blocks are predrilled fpr threaded, rods and dowels. MITER SPRING CLAMPS
On palle 22, we mentioned that miter spling clamps ru-e a good way to clamp miter joints. W.e're of)'emig a set with three sizes of miter spl'ng clamps (lings). These thi .... sizes are all you need to clamp the moldings shown in this issue, We're also offeling the special pliers needed to install them or plans and hardware to ,build .a set of pliers out of wood. Miter Spring Clamp Set, Order No. 760-710, $19.95. This includes: • (4) Small Rings for moldings Yo' to 1" wide.
• (4) Medium Rings for moldings 1" to
1M," wide. • (4) Large Rings for moldings IM,"' to 2V,,'" wide Metal Spring Clamp Plier Tool, Order No. 611-404, $39.95. Shop-Made WoodeD Spring Clamp Plier Tool, (Includes plans and hardware, you provide the wood.) Order No. 760720, $4.95. PICTURE HANGING SUPPLIES
Once you finish building a 6-ame, the best way to hrulg it on the wall is with hinged hangel'S and picture frame wire, see ihe box on page 21. W
Extra Heavy Frame Hanging Kit, Order No. 760·880, $12.95. Includes enough material for -six ftllmes: • (12) Exb:a Heavy Hinged Hangers, Jo/,(' long, with %"-Iong screws. • (25 11:.) Braided Pitt",-e Frame IVil-e. • (12) Rubber Bumpers, self-adhesive, • (6) E~trs Heavy Wall Hooks.
I--------------j ORDERING INFORMATION
r---------------i To order tile project SUpplies, mail in the ol'll"r Co,'m on the protective cover of this issue, oi' call the toUill.... number listed below. If ordering by mail, send your order and payment to: Woodsmith Proje<:t Supplies P.O. Box 10350 Des Moines, 1A 50006 Phone Orders: 800·444·7002. Customer sel-vi!)Cis.avaiJable from 8:3(] AM to 4:30 PM Cel)~ TIme, weekdays only. Wi;. aeeeps M
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