ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: We are extremely delighted to express our indebtedness and deepest sense of gratitude to our supervisor Md. Dewan Mahbub Kamran(Sr.Executive, Dyeing).for his able guidance, untiring efforts, stimulating influence and valuable comments during the training period . We would like to offer sincere thank to the DGM (Dyeing) Engr. Md. Shamim Rahman for his invaluable suggestions regarding this training period. The authority of the VIYELLATEX GROUP who gave us the opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with great success is remembered with honor. Thanks are due to all Engineers, officers, technicians, employees, stuffs, all section in-charges for their cordial behavior. We are really lucky that we have gotten such helping hand without whom, this attachment could not be completed. We also like to thank Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah-ur-Rahman, department of Wet Processing Technology for his encouragement, valuable suggestion, and for the completion of this Industrial attachment successfully. Last but not least, thanks goes to my precious family for their never-ending support and loves in every stages of my life which has motivated me to do such type work.
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those countries for producing their apparel products where different types of mills have established as a one stop source for the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer's expectation by developing and providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety & Environmental impact. And also assure complete compliance with the international quality standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working condition/standards. In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile Industry those are producing high quality textile and apparel product. VIYELLATEX GROUP is one of them. VIYELLATEX GROUP is a Knit Composite Garments, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 Metric tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in VIYELLATEX GROUP are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as Esprit, M&S, SOliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production can not hamper. In this report, we have tried to give some information about VIYELLATEX GROUP and we have observed that VIYELLATEX GROUP produce high quality fabric and fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by following different internationally recommended standard method.
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INTRODUCTION The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various processing stages. By means of practical knowledge it’s not possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the practical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equal important in association with the theoretical knowledge. It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. the above mentioned can not be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility. Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at VIYELLATEX GROUP, which is a 100% export-oriented composite Knit Dyeing Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing. .
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TABLE OF CONTENT TOPIC NUMBER 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08
TOPIC NAME GENERAL INFORMATION KNITTING SECTION BATCH SECTION LAB SECTION DYEING SECTION FINISHING SECTION INSPECTION SECTION GARMENTS SECTION
PAGE NUMBER 5-11 12-40 41-43 44-59 60-98 99-121 122-124 125-137
09 10 11 12 13 14
WASHING SECTION PRINTING SECTION EMBROIDERY SECTION MAINTENANCE SECTION UTILITY SECTION CONCLUSION
138-146 147-153 154-157 158-163 164-175 176-177
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GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE FACTORY Name of Company
Factory:
:
VIYELLATEX GROUP.
VIYELLATEX GROUP. 297 Khortoil, Tongi, Gazipur-1712.,Dhaka Bangladesh. Tel : 880-2-9813001, Ext: 110 Fax : 880-2-9811400 http//www.viyellatexgroup.com
VIYELLATEX LTD. is a well established knit composite industry. The industry stands on industrial area of Gazipur. VIYELLATEX GROUP. is a Group of Companies, Viyella spinning, Youngone’s fashion LTD. Viyella knitting and dyeing~ VIYELLATEX LTD. is going to prove its own standard about product quality in world market as they know that their reputation depends on its quality. VIYELLATEX LTD. is a profitable project and contributes the economy of our country.
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LAYOUT FOR GOING TO THE VIYELLATEX FROM DHAKA
M asco In d u stries Ltd .
KA I A lluminim Co.Lt.d
V IYELLATEX M asco In d u stries Ltd .
SM P Design Pvt. Ltd.
TO N G I
G A J IPU R A
BO ARD BAZAR
DH A KA -M AYM A N SH IN G H IG H W AY
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PROJECT DESCRIPTION Name of the Company : VIYELLATEX GROUP Status : Private Ltd. Company Type : 100% Export oriented composite knit Dyeing Year of establishment : 2001 year of starting production : 2002 Location : Gazipura, Tongi Address: Factory: 297, Khortoli, Tongi, Gazipur-1712 Head Office : 297, Khortoli, Tongi, Gazipur-1712 Tel : No: 88192812 Fax No: 880-2-8810445 E-mail: www.viyellatexgroup.com Sponsors :Mr. Rezaul Hasnat Product Mix 100% cotton 100% polyester Spun Filament Nylon Chief Value Cotton (CVC) Polyester Cotton (PC) Grey melange (15% Voscose 85% cotton) 10% Voscose 90% cotton Ash melange (1% Viscose 99% cotton)
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Different Departments of VIYELLATEX knit dyeing composite unit a) knitting Section:
Knitting
Inspection b) Dyeing section:
Batch section
Dye house
Dyeing lab.
Quality control
Finishing c) Garments section:
Merchandising
Sample
Cutting Section
Sewing Section
Finishing Section
d) Maintenance section:
Electrical
Mechanical
e) Store Section f) Administration Section g) Security Section h) Marketing Section i) Production Planning & Control j) Human Resource & Development Section
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VIYELLATEX GROUP INFORMATION: Nature of company: Certification :
100% Export Oriented Knit composite Factory. FARE TRADE As a textile conglomerate having, 40320 spindle spinning. Given by, FLOCERT GmbH of Germany in 2007.
Qualify Certification:
ISO 9002 Marks & Spencer NANOTEX TUV DuPont Teflon Puma DOTS by Cu (Control union) OE by CU (Control Union)
Award:
BGMEA Gold Medal-2007. For Outstanding performance on corporate social Responsibility & knit export. Bangladesh Business Person-2007 Organized by DHL & the Daily Star. PVH Gold Medal – 2007 For in time shipmen of qualify goods. CSR Award – 2008 By Standard Chartered bank & Financial Express & so many from nation & international bodies.
Turn Over:Viyellatex Garments Viyellatex Fabrics ISML FPPL VSL
-
US$ US$ US$ US$ US$
41.5 Million (2006-2007) 30.0 Million (2006-2007) 15.5 Million (2006-2007) o1.6 Million (2006-2007) 18.0 Million (2006-2007)
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Name of The Buyer Marks & Spencer S.Oliver Tesco Gap Puma Esprit G-Star PVH Woolworths Celio Abercrombie& Fitch Gerry Weber
Country U.K Germany U.K U.S.A Germany Germany Netherland U.S.A France U.S.A Germany
. CSRP: Run ETP to treat dyeing water before release to environment Donate Blood transfusion Thalassaemia Hospital. Donated Kidney Dialysis Machine by Rotary Club Dhaka North-West. Scholarship to meritorious students. A Local school runs by Viyellatex Welfare Trust. Projected 80 bedded general Hospital. Carbon Footprint Project by BASF. Reuse of Generator exhaust to run chiller & Boiler. Preserve Rain water. Free Eye Camp & health Campaigns for local community. + Take part on others social & national activates, disaster etc.
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Sources of mellange: • Patartoli • Prime • Shohag pur • Thermax Sources of polyester: • Kader Synthetic. • China. • Count: 75den, 100den, 150den. Sources of Lycra: * Brand : Roica Country : Taiwan. * Brand : Texlon Country : Korea. *Brand : Acelen Country: China *Brand : Creora Country: Japan *Brand : Lioli (In Viyellatex used mostly) Country: China
•
Count: 20 den, 40 den, 70 den.
Price list of different types of yarn: Cotton: Yarn Count 40/1 34/1 32/1 30/1 28/1 26/1 24/1 22/1 20/1
Combed Yarn 3.65 $/Kg 3.00 $/Kg 2.90 $/Kg 2.70 $/Kg 2.70 $/Kg 2.65 $/kg 2.60 $/Kg 2.55 $/Kg 2.50 $/Kg
Carded Yarn 2.65-2.7 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg 2.15-2.2 $/Kg
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Organogram of Knitting Section DGM / AGM
Manager /Asst. Manager (Production & Plan)(02)
Manager/ (Technical) Asst. Manager(01)
Sr. Executive (Production, Plan & Sample)(02) Sr. Feeder/Feeder(07) Executive / Jr. Executive (Prod. & Sample)(05) Asst. Feeder(04) Sr. Supervisor/Supervisor(06) Sr. Operator/Operator(135)
Sample Supervisor(02) Needle Man(03) Sample Asst.(05) Servicing Man(06)
Asst. Operator(33) Servicing Helper(06) Production Helper(21)
Manager / Asst. Manager (Store)(01) Sr. Executive / Executive (02)
Jr. Executive (Yarn)(02) Store Asst.(Yarn)(03) Loader (Yarn)(26)
Jr. Executive (Grey Fabric)(03) Store Asst.(Grey Fabric)(07) Batch Helper/Loader (35)
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`
Worker Toilet
Officer Toilet
Stuff Sitting Room
1st floor-(Officeroom) Office Area
Temporary Yarn store
Enter
Temporary Yarn Store
Oil tank
Exit
69
70
71
Gray Fabric & Yarn Store Room
Office Area
72
Temporary Yarn Store
=Single jersey
55
54
53
50
47
66
67
68
59
60
61
62
Office Area
63
=Rib =Interlock
64
=Autostrip(S/ J)
56
52
65
58
57
44
43
42
41
40 40
=Autostrip(Rib) =Flat/ V-bed
35
36 36
37 37
38 38
39 39
34
33 33
32 32
31 31
30 30
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
21 21
20
19 19
18 18
17
16
15
08
09
10
11
12
23
14
=Inspection m/ c 29
51
=Wt. Balance
49
48 48
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KNITTING: KNITTING IS THE PROCESS OF PRODUCING A FABRIC BY FORMING A SERIES OF CONNECTED LOOPS FROM A SERIES OF YARN. IN THIS METHOD FABRIC IS PRODUCED BY INTERMESHING OF LOOPS.
KNITTING TYPES: warp knitting: each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row.
Weft knitting: a horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction.
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Raw Material for Knitting The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of count are used. In yarn store section we had the chance to know about different yarns of different count used in \/IYELLA TEX knitting. We also have known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting section i.e. sources of yarn. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.
Cotton
24S, 26s,30S,
32S,34S,40S Polyester
75D, lO0D
=
Spandex yarn
20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange (C
24S,26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%)
24S,26S,28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)24S,26S,28S,30S CVC
24S,26S,28S,30S
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Knitting section is divided in four sections, 1. 2. 3. 4. I.
Inspection section Flat knitting section Circular Knitting section Store section
Cloth Inspection Section:
In cloth inspection section two machines are available. Specification of those machines is given below Type Cloth Inspection Machine Manufacturer name Uzu fabric Inspection County Thailand Model No. UZ 900.31 2. Flat Knitting Section: Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this section there are 25 flat knitting machines. all of them are same type and also have same specification. The specification of all machines is given below: Type Automatic Flat knitting machine Manufacturer name Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd. Country Japan Model No. \l-100 Gauge G14
3. Circular Knitting Section: This section contains 72 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different specifications of different machines are given one after another 4.
Store section: In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.
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Automatic Flat Bed M/C
Automatic Flat Bed M/C
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Machine List of Knitting Section in Viyellatex : Machine name Circular Knitting(Single jersey) m/c Circular Knitting(Rib) m/c Engineering Stripe m/c V-bed Knitting m/c Grey Fabric Inspection m/c
Machine Quantity 32 18 08 26 03
Specification of Circular Knitting Machine:
Machine no: 01 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin: Kobe, Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 30”; 24G Extra cylinder: 30”; 20G \o of needle: 1860 Machine no: 03 Industrial attachment Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin: Kobe ,Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 26”; 24G Extra cylinder: No of needle: 1932 No of feeder: 78 Machine no: 05 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 36~ 24G No of needle: 2712 \o of feeder: 108 Machine no: 07 Machine type: Single jersey(2 truck) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:25”;24G No of needle: 1872 No of feeder: 74
Machine no:02 Machine type: Single jersey Brand : Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin : Kobe, Japan Machine dia&Gauge:26”.24G No of Needle : 1932 No of feeder : 78 Machine no: 04 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara (vxc-3s) Origin: Kobe, Japan Machine dia &Gauge: 30”; 24G Extra cylinder: No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 90 Machine no: 06 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:25”;24G No of needle: 1872 No of feeder: 74 Machine no: 08 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30”;28G Extra cylinder : 33”, 24G No of needle : 2236
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Machine no: 09 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30”;28G Extra cylinder: 30”;24G No of needle: 2256 No of feeder: 90 Machine no: 11 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Fukuhara (B.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30”;24G No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 13 Machine type: Single jersey brand: Fukuhara (B.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30”-24G No of needle: 2268
No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 15 Machine type: Terrot Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30”:20G Noofneedle:1872 No of feeder: 96 Machine no:17 Machine type: Rib Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:34”-18G No of needle: 3840 No of feeder: 60
Machine no: 10 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Fukuhara (v.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30”;24G Extra cylinder: 30”;20G No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 98 Machine no: 12 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Fukuhara (B.c-3.25) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30”;24G No of needle: 2268 No of feeder: 98 14Machine no: 14 Machine type: Fleece Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30”~20G Noofneedle:~872 No of feeder: 96 16. Machine no: 16 Machine type: Rib\Interlock Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30”;18G Extra cylinder: 30”~22G No of needle: 3368 No of feeder: 54 Machine no: 18 Machine type: Rib Brand: Terrot Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:36”; 18G No of needle : 4080 No of feeder :64
Machine no :19 Machine type : Rib / Interlock Brand : Terrot Origin : Germany Machine dia & Gauge : 36 “ 28G Extra cylinder : 36` 22G No of needle : 4080 No of feeler :64
Machine no : 20 Machine type : Single jersey Brand : Mayer & Cie Origin : Germany Machine dia & Gauge : 30: ; 28G No of needle:980
Machine no: 21 Machine type: Single jersey
Machine no: 22 Machine type: Rib
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Brand: Mayer & Cie Origin: Germany Machine dia &Gauge:30”,28G Extra cylinder: 30”,24G No of needle: 2640 No of feeder: 96 Machine no: 23 Machine type: Rib Brand: Fukuhara (v.er-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36”,18G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64 Machine no: 25. Machine type: Rib Brand: Fukuhara (v-er-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36”-l8G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64
Brand: Fukuhara(V-ER-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36”,18G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64
Machine no: 27. Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung(pl-xr2b\ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38”,18G No of needle: 2124 No of feeder: 76
Machine no: 28. Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung (pl-xr2b/ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38”,18G No of needle: 2124 No of feeder: 76
Machine no: 29 Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung(pl-xr2b\ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38”,18G No of needle: 2124 No of feeder: 76
Machine no: 30 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:24”~24G No.of needle: 1800 No of feeder: 72
Machine no: 31 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:26”;24G No of needle: 1944 No of feeder: 78 Machine no: 33 Machine type: Single jersey (Auto Stripe)(pl-xscsl 6) Brand: Pai Lung
Machine no: 32. Machine type: Interlock Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36”,22G No of needle: 2484 No of feeder: 72 Machine no: 34 Machine type: Single jersey (Auto Stripe)(pl-xscsl 6) Brand: Pai Lung
Machine no: 24. Machine type: Rib Brand: Fukuhara (v-er-22) Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36”,18G No of needle: 4078 No of feeder: 64 Machine no: 26 Machine type: Rib Brand: Pai Lung (pl-xra\ce) Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:38”18G Noofneedle:2160 No of feeder: 76
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Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30”,24G Extra cylinder: 30”,16G No of needle: 2256 No of feeder: 42x6
Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:30’:24G Extra cylinder: 3O”~16G No of needle 22~6 No of feeder: 42x6
Machine No. 35 Type Auto striper Double jersey. Brand PAL LUNG. Origin TAIWAN. lodJ No PL-XDCS/6-U Machine Dia: 36 Gauge 18G
Machine No. 36 TAIWAN Type Auto striper Double jersey Brand PA! LUNG. Origin TAIWAN. Model No. PL-XDCSI6-L Machine Dia 36 Gauge 18G PL
Machine No. 37 Type Fleece Brand PAl LUNG. Type Single jersey Brand PAT LUNG. Origin TAIWAN ModelNo. PL-XS4BACE. Machine Dia 36” Gauge 24G Feeder No. 144
\F3B-—LP Machine No. 38 Type Fleece Brand PAl LUNG. Type Single jersey Brand PAT LUNG. Origin TAIWAN ModelNo. PL-XS4BACE. Machine Dia 36” Gauge 24G Feeder No. 144
Machine No. 39 Type Single jersey Brand PAT LUNG. Origin TAIWAN ModelNo. PL-XS4BACE. Machine Dia 36” Gauge 24G
Machine No. 40 Tvpc Single jcrscv. Brand PAl LUNG. Origin TAIWAN. Model No. PL-XS4B/AICE Machine Dia 23 Gauge 24G
Feeder No.
Feeder No.
144
Machine No. 41 Type Double jersey Brand PAl LUNG Machine Dia 38 Gauge 18G Feeder No. 76
78
Machine No. 42 Tvpe Doublc jersey. Brand PAI- LUNG. Origin: TAIWAN Dia 38 Gauge I 8G
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Fccdcr No.
76
Machine no: 43 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand:Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 44 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 45 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 46 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle: 2850 No of feeder: 144 Machine no: 48 Machine type: Single jersey. Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x24 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 47
Machine type: Single jersey.
Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle: 2850 No of feeder: 144 Machine no: 49 Machine type: Single jersey(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge: 3 0x247 No of needle:2256 No of feeder: 42x6
Machine no: 51 Machine type: Rib(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x1 8 No of needle:2040
No of feeder54x6 Machine no: 53 Machine type: Single jersey (Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia & gauge : 30x24 industrial attachment No opf needle : 2256 no of feeder 42x6
Machine no: 50 Machine type Single jersey(Auto strip) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gawie:30x2 No of needle: 2256 No of feeder: 42x6 Machine no: 52 Machine type: Rib(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x18
No of needle: 2040 No of feeder: 54x6 Lachine no: 55
Machine type: Single jersey(Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle:2712 No of feeder: 50x6
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Machine no: 56
Machine no: 57
Machine type: Single jersey (Auto stripe) Brand: Pai Lung Origin: Taiwan Machine dia &Gauge:36x24 No of needle: 27U No of feeder: 50x6
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x24 No of feeder: 86
Machine no: 58
Machine no: 59
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x4 No of feeder: 86
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x4 No of feeder: 86
Machine no: 60
Machine no: 61
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:26x24 No of feeder: 86
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x8 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 62 Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x28 No of feeder: 98
Machine no: 63 Machine type: Single jersey
Machine no: 64
Machine no: 65
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No. of feeder: 30
Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:30x20 No of feeder: 30
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara
Origin:
Kobe Japan
Machine dia &Gauge8x24 No of feeder: 84
Machine no: 66
Machine no: 67
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:32x24 No of feeder: 106
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:32x24 No of feeder: 106
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Machine no: 68
Machine type: Single jersey Brand: Fukuhara Origin: Kobe Japan Machine dia &Gauge:36x4
No of feeder:
118
Machine No: 70 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90
Machine No: 69 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90 Machine No: 71 Machine type: Single jercy Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90
Machine No: 72 Machine type: Single jersey Brand:Keumyong Origin:Koria M/C Dia&Gauge:30*20 No of feeder:90
Specification of V-Bed Knitting Machine: No. of V-Bed Knitting m/c: 26 Machine no-(01-15) M/c type: Rib (collar) Brand name: Matsuya Origin: Japan Manufacturing no: 8103 Gauge: 14 Date of manufacturing: 2004 Machine no-(16-25) M/c type: Rib (collar) Brand name: Strickmaschinen GMBH Origin: Germany Needle: 2040 Manufacturing no: 8103 Gauge: 16 Date of manufacturing: 2002
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Others Machines in Knitting Section: 1. Gray Fabric Inspection M/c Brand: Uzu cloth inspection machine Manufacturer: AATPR INDUSTRY CO.LTD. Model: UZ – 900-3 Origin: Thailand. No. of Machine: 03 2. Electric Balance for Fabric Weight. 3. Electric Balance for GSM check.
PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR KNITTING YARN IN PACKAGE FORM PLACE THE YARN PACKAGE IN THE CREEL FEEDING THE YARN SET THE M/C AS PER DESIGN &GSM KNITTING WITHDRAW THE ROLLED FABRIC AND WEIGHTING INSPECTION NUMBERING
Product Mix SINGLE JERSEY S/J LYCRA S/J YARN DYED S/J POLO PIQUE SINGLE LACOSTE DOUBLE LACOSTE FLEECE LYCRA FLEECE
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DOUBLE JERSEY 1*1 RIB 1*1 LYCRA RIB YARN DYED RIB 2*1 RIB 2*2 RIB 2*2 LYCRA RIB INTERLOCK Type of Collar
TIPPING COLLAR SOLID COLLAR RAISING COLLAR PEACOT COLLAR WAISY BAND / HEM
PRODUCTION CALCULATION: A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency =
RPM × No. of Feeder × No. of Needle × SL(mm) 3527 .80 × Yarn count
B. Production/shift in meter Course / min . Course / cm RPM × No. of Feeder × 60 × 12 × Efficiency = Course / cm × 100 C. Fabric width in meter: =
Total no. of wales Wales / cm × 100 Total no. of Needles used in knitting = Wales / cm × 100 =
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PRODUCTION PARAMETER: 1.
Machine Diameter
2.
Machine rpm (revolution per minute)
3.
No. of feeds or feeders in use
4.
Machine Gauge
5.
Count of yarn 6. Required time (M/C running time) 7. Machine running efficiency
Production Calculated Fabric Production = 18 M. Ton Actual Fabric Production = 12-14 M. Ton Circular Knitting m/c production= 200 -500 kg per m/c/day Auto Stripper production = 60- 150 kg/mc Collar production= 11500-13500 pc/ day
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SAMPLE AND ANALYSIS OF VARIOUS TYPE OF KNITTED FABRIC: Fabric: Single jersey SAMPLE
NOTATION DIAGRAM ×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
×
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 N.B: × = Knit stitch ∆ = Knit cam
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
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Fabric: 1 × 1 Rib SAMPLE
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT ∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
L
C
1
HL LS
N.B:
D
22
22
∆ = Knit cam H =High butt needle L = Low butt needle 1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
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Fabric: 2 × 2 Rib SAMPLE
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
1∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
D
LH S
C
22
N.B: ∆ = Knit cam H = High butt needle L= Low butt needle C= Cylinder D= Dial 1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle Fabric: Plain Interlock SAMPLE
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CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
∆
――
∆∆
――
――
∆∆
――
∆∆
――
∆∆
――
∆∆
――
∆∆
――
∆ NEEDLE ARRANGMENT
H
L
1
2 N.B: ∆ = Knit cam H = High butt needle
― = Miss cam C = Cylinder
L = Low butt needle
D = Dial
1= One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
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Fabric: Single Lacost SAMPLE
NOTATION DIAGRAM × • × ××
×
×
××
••
×
×
••
××
× ×× ×
••
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT
∆
∆
∆∆ ∆∆
∆
∆
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 N.B: × = Knit stitch ∆ = Knit cam =Tuck cam • = Tuck stich
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
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Fabric: Double Lacoste SAMPLE
NOTATION DIAGRAM ×
×
×
×
××
••
××
••
×
••
××
••
×
×
×
×
••
××
••
××
••
××
••
××
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT ∆
∆ NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 N.B: × = Knit stitch • = Tuck stitch = Tuck cam ∆ = Knit cam
∆
∆
∆ ∆
∆
∆
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle
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Fabric: Terry/French Terry/Two Thread SAMPLE
NOTATION DIAGRAM ×
×
×
―
―
×
×
×
―
―
•
••
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT 2
1 ∆
3 ∆
∆
∆∆
∆
∆∆
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 3 NB: × = Knit stitch • = Tuck stitch = Tuck cam ∆ = Knit cam • = Miss cam
4
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle 3 = Three butt needle ― = Miss stitch
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Fabric: Fleece (Three Thread) SAMPLE NOTATION DIAGRAM ×
×
×
×
×
×
•
―
―
×
×
×
×
×
× ••
―
―
×
×
×
×
×
×
―
―
••
CAM SETTING ARRANGEMENT 1 2
3
4
5
∆ ∆
∆
∆ ∆ ∆ ∆
NEEDLE ARRANGMENT 1 2 3 NB: × = Knit stitch • = Tuck stitch = Tuck cam ∆ = Knit cam = Miss cam
6
7
8
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
∆
9
1 = One butt needle 2 = Two butt needle 3 = Three butt needle ― = Miss stitch
FAULTS, CAUSES & THEIR REMEDIES IN KNITTING: 1. Hole Mark Causes: Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks. During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density. Badly knot or splicing. Yarn feeder badly set. Remedies: Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform. Use proper count of yarn. Correctly set of yarn feeder. Knot should be given properly. 2. Needle Mark Causes: When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics. If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics. Remedies: Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch. 3. Sinker Mark Causes: When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes. If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes. Remedies: Sinker should be changed. 4. Star Causes: Yarn tension variation during production. Buckling of the needle latch. Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies: Maintain same Yarn tension during production. Use good conditioned needles. 5. Drop Stitches INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Causes: Defective needle. If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook. Take-down mechanism too loose. Insufficient yarn tension. Badly set yarn feeder. Remedies: Needle should be straight & well. Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation. Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension. Yarn tension should be properly. 6. Oil stain Causes: When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line. Remedies: Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics. Well maintenance as well as proper oiling. 7.
Rust stain
Causes: If any rust on the machine parts. Remedies: If any rust on the machine parts then clean it. Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling. 8. Pin hole Causes: Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric. Remedies: Change the needle 9. Grease stain Causes: INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Improper greasing Excess greasing Remedies: Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance 10.
Cloth fall- out
Causes: Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles. Remedies: Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch. 11. Barre: A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) Stripe. Causes: This fault comes from yarn fault. If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn. Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn. During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics. In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver. Remedies: We can use this fabric in white color. 12.
Fly dust:
Causes: In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies: Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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By cleaning the floor continuously. By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor. Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric. 13. Yarn contamination Causes: If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing, If lot, count mixing occurs. Remedies: By avoiding lot, count mixing. Fault less spinning. 14.
Yarn Faults:
Neps. Slubs. Yarn count variations. Thick/Thin place in yarn. Hairiness.
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Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.
Function or Purpose of Batch Section -
-
To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. Turn the grey fabric if require. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria – • Order sheet (Received from buyer) • Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) • M/C capacity • M/C available • Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) • Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Proper batching criteria -
To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c. To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
Batch management Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
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Machines in batch section M/c quantity: 02 M/c Specification: Machine Name M/c No Brand Name Origin M/c Speed Model Max up clothing Company Finishing Machinery Co.Ltd
: Air turning m/c : 01 : Taida : China : 300-500m/min : DF 200 : 150 kg :Shandong Taida Dyeing &
Machine Name M/c No Brand Name Origin M/c Speed Model Max up clothing Company Finishing Machinery Co.Ltd.
: Air turning m/c : 02 : Taida : China : 300-500m/min : DF 200 : 150 kg :Shandong Taida Dyeing &
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LABORATORY LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION 1. Tearing Strength Tester: Brand Name :Elmatear Origin
: U.K
2. Button Strength Tester: Brand Name : Titan Origin
: U.K
Max.Pressure: 10 bar Capacity
: 3000N
3. Bursting Strength Tester: Brand Name : TruBurst Origin
: U.K
4. Pilling Resistant Tester: Brand Name : Impulse Origin
: U.K
5. Sprectra Flash: Brand Name : Data Color Origin
: U.S.A
Test Name: Colorfastness to Washing, Dry cleaning. Name of the m/c : Rota Wash Origin : U.K Test Method
:ISO105-C06, ISO105-D02
Test Name: Dimensional Stability, Spirality, Appearance after washing. Name of the m/c : Eltrolux wascator. Origin
: U.K
Test Method
: ISO 6330, ISO 26330
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Test Name : Shrinkage Test. Name of the m/c : Eltrolux Origin
: U.K
Test Name : Color Fastness to Wash Test. Name of the m/c : Gyro wash Origin
: U.K
Test Method
: ISO 105-C06
Lab Dip m/c: No.of m/c: 02 M/C NO- 01 Brand name : Ahiba Nuance Lab Dip Dyeing m/c Origin
: U.S.A
M/C NO- 02 Brad name : Ahiba Nuance Lab Dip Dyeing m/c Origin
: U.S.A
Color Matching Cabinet (Light box): No. of Light Box: 02 Light Box no: 01 Brand : Spectralight-111 Origin
: U.S.A
Light Source:
Day Light (D-65) Cool White Horizon UV TL-84 A (F11-10 degree)
Light Box no: 02 Brand : Verivide
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Origin
: U.K
Light Source:
Day Light (D-65) UV TL-84 A (F11-10 degree)
Laboratory is the heart of dyeing Industry. An efficient laboratory can increase the efficiency of dyeing. So, laboratory in-charge is sometimes called pilot. Before bulk production a sample is sent to buyer for approval. Laboratory supplies the recipe to the floor. Purpose of Laboratory: Get color approval from buyer. Recipe supply to the floor. Shade correction. Minimize the deviation between bulk and laboratory. Laboratory line: Standard sample: At first recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (computer color matching) system.
Laboratory Trial: Then by taking those recipe laboratory officers produce laboratory trial and match with standard according to buyer requirement. Approved Sample: Then sample swatch, which is matched with the standard, is send to buyer for approval.
Off-Line Tests:
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Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as follows: Physical tests Chemical tests Scope for Quality control, quality assurance and testing 1 Testing lab 2.Machine auditing system 3.A good training system 4.Excellent analytical back up 5.Technical expertise
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM The Quality assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its manufacturing. VIYELLATEX LTD is more about concern about quality. In this factory quality assurance is more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. Objects of Quality Control: 1.Research. 2.Selection of raw materials. 3.Process control. 4.Process development. 5.Product testing. 6.Specification test Quality management system in viyellatex: QA
On-Line
Off-Line
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Online Quality control: There are two types of online quality control. These are as follows: •
Raw material control:
Raw material control means control the quality of raw materials (e.g.Quality of Grey fabric, Dyes, Chemicals and Auxiliary) •
Process control:
Process control means the selection of right process and controlling of some parameters. Such as PH, Water hardness, water volume, Temperature, Reel Speed, Pump pressure, etc. Online Tests: Dyed fabric. Shade check. Wash fastness. Water fastness. Crocking fastness. Off-Line Tests: Off-Line tests for finished fabrics are divided into two groups. These are as follows: Physical tests Chemical tests Physical Tests: GSM of Fabric. Abrasion resistance / Pilling. Dimensional stability test. Spirality test. Color fastness to rubbing test (Dry / Wet). Bursting strength test (For Knitted fabric). Tensile Strength test (For Woven fabric).
Chemical Tests: Color Fastness to washing. Color Fastness to light. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Color Fastness to heat. Color Fastness to actual laundering Color Fastness to Chlorinated water. Color Fastness to water spotting. Color Fastness to perspiration. Color Fastness to Seawater. Flammability test. Fibre analysis. PH test. Spray test (water repellency). Phenolic yellowing.
RESPOSIBILITY OF OFF-LINE QUALITY CONTROL: To check the following things: Inspection of fabric in the inspection M/C under 4-point system. Yarn count and lot no. Buyer. Design. Stitch length of grey fabric. Shade of grey fabric with in one order.
RESPOSIBILITY OF ON LINE QUALITY CONTROL To check the following things: M/C Dia/Gauge Buyer Design Grey fabric GSN & Stitch Length Yarn count & Lot no Yarn whether approved or not by Q.C. Department Finished dia & grey dia. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Fabric quality checking under 4-point system.
RESPONSIBILITY OF IN CHARGE OF QUALITY CONTROL Making report. Supervise the grey Q.C. Check machine is running according to program or not Check program can meet the requirement. Which is
mentioned in
the order sheet or not. Check yarn is approved by Q.C. or not.
RESPONSIBILITY OF THE FINISHING Q.C. Finishing Q.C. (shade): After unloading from dyeing cut small piece, check shade with std/approved lab dip/production sample & previous production batch (if any). Then instruction to finishing for finish by mentioning specific temperature in dryer. After finish again cut sample & check same way like before at dry state. Keep the record of every lot after dry & after finished state. If any batch is not OK at any stage then make the re-process card for dyeing. If any batch is closer to standard but not exactly pass with standard, then make trial for that batch in finishing to make it OK. Maintain the resister of all batches. Check the shade of Body to Rib, Body to Collar & Cuff. In charge: Supervise the trainee Q.C. & Q.C. Make report every day. Cross check whatever shade already checked by Q.C. Q.C. (Finishing): INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Make the R2R continuity of each dye lot by cutting small piece from each roll of dye lot. Inspect 30-40 % of each dye lot under 4-point inspection system & report accordingly. If found any problem then re-inspect 100% of that dye lot and make report & re-process card (if re-process able) for dyeing. If it is knitting faults then immediately inform to officer asking decision. Check the evenness of a dye lot by checking R2R continuity. Check the shade of body to rib, body to collar & cuff. In charge: Monitor the all Q.C.’S (finishing) work including shade Q.C. Take decision when asking advise from his subordinate. Make daily problematic batch report. Make daily production report. Maintain resister khata. Make daily batch re-process job card.
RESPOSIBILITY OF QUALITY ASSURANCE MANAGER: Responsible for all quality matter of fabric. Yarn selection. Monitoring product development. Organize Laboratory. Control grey and finished fabric inspection under 4- point system. Documentation after shade check of every lot.
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Quality Assurance Procedure 1) Body & Rib Inspection: All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, stubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system. 2) Collar cuff Inspection: Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the tight box, any major or minor faulty collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, stubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded. Quality Standard: VIYELLA TEX Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9002 standard in case of quality. Therefore the four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at VIYELLA TEX Ltd. Four point grading system Size of defects Penalty 3 inches or less 1 point ‘ 2 point Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point Over 9 inch 4 point
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Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at VIYELLA TEX Ltd.
Factory: Formula :
Acceptance Calculation Roll yardage (A) Total points founds(B)
X100 =points per 100 yard
Classification:
← 40 points
=A type
41-60
=B type
61-80
=C type
Above 8Opoin =
Reject
Tests There are two types of tests are done in Quality Assurance Department. They are — 1. Physical Tests 2. Chemical Tests Physical Tests: Yarn Grade GSM test Shrinkage test Spirality test Tensile strength Abrasion resistance Button Strength Testing Lycra% determination Crease resistance Chemical Tests: Fastness to washing. Fastness to light
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Fastness to actual laundering Fastness to sea water Fastness to water Fastness to perspiration
SOME TEST PROCEDURE Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry): Procedure: At first take a sample of size (14 × 5) cm at Wales & Course wise. Put the crocking cloth on to the finger & stag by finger clip & run 10 times in 10 seconds manually & assess the crocking cloth with gray scale. Place the crocking cloth on the water, it will sucked some water and then squeeze the crocking cloth. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the finger and stag with finger clip and run 10 times in 10 seconds manually. Then assess the crocking cloth by gray scale for wet rubbing. Wet and dry rubbing are checked according to buyer’s requirement.
Color fastness to washing(ISO/05-CO6): Procedure: 1. Size of specimen: Cut sample & multifibre at (10 × 2)cm then stitch. 2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled
water & cooled at 20°C & measured PH (where necessary). 3. Run the program in the following way: Test no. Temp°C C2S
60°C
Liq.volume ml 50
Time min. 30
Steel balls Adjust pH 25
10.5±1
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water. 5. Dry at 60°C by hanging or by flat iron pressing but temperature should not less more than 150°C.
Pilling test: Procedure: INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Cut the fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm & balance mark should be 10cm by using template. Then sewn the fabric so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes are placed in a box & start 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer requirement. Here mainly used 3hrs(1100 cycle). Then assess the pilling by putting tested specimen on the viewing cabinet & compare with standard photographs.
Shrinkage & Spirality test: Buyer’s requirements: Template size: 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash). Shrinkage: length wise--- 5% Width wise----5% Spirality:
Left -------- 5% Right -------- 5%
Procedure: At first take two ply of fabric & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has 8 holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then we mark the 8 holes by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template. Then sewn the fabric & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes with water. After that dry the sample & then measure the fabric Spin speed --- 500rpm Drum speed--500rpm
Calculation:
Shrinkage Test: Lengthwise: After wash – Before wash = ----------------------------------×100 Before wash Width wise: After wash – Before wash = ----------------------------------×100 Before wash
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Spirality test: Left side + Right side = 2 × 100 % Length(width for H & M)
Color fastness to water (ISO 105 EO1& EO2): 1. Sample size: Cut the specimen & multi-fiber at 10×2cm & sewn together. 2. Solution: Wet in distilled water at room temperature & it will suck water. 3. Place it in acrylic resin plates & put the weight on to the plates. 4. Keep it in oven & keep the temperature at 37± 2°C for 4hrs. 5. Open the specimen & dry it in the air hot exceeding 60°C. 6. Assess the staining & shade change with gray scale.
Color fastness to perspiration Alkaline & Acid solution (Method: ISO 105 E04): 1) Procedure: Cut the specimen & multifibre at 10×2cm & sewn together. 2) Prepare solution: Alkaline Solution: 0.5g/l of 1-histadine mono hydrochloride monohydrate 5g/l of sodium chloride This solution is brought to pH -8 with 0.1 mole/l caustic solution. Acid solution: 0.5 g/l of 1-histadine monohydrochloride monohydrate INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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5g/l of sodium chloride. 2.2 g/l of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate. This solution is brought to pH-5.5 with 0.1 mole/l caustic solution. 3) M: L = 1: 50 4) Wet the specimen in flat dish containing acid & alkaline solution & keep for 30min. Then take the specimen & squeeze the excess solution by two glass rods. 5) Put the specimen in to the acrylic resin plates & put wt. on the plates. 6) Keep it in the woven at 37°C ± 2°C for 4hrs. 7) Open the specimen 6 multi fibre & dry separately in the air temperature not exceeding 60°C. 8) Access the staining & shade change with grey scale.
PH Test: Procedure: Take 2gm sample fabrics and cut into small pieces. Then put it conical flax with 100cc water (M: L -1:50). Then shake it 15 min, then place it in a shaker m/c for 1 hour. Then check PH by PH meter.
GSM TEST: Procedure: GSM is the most important factor. There is a GSM cutter. The sample cut by the GSM cutter is weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm) from the balance is multiplied by 100 to get the value of GSM.
Remarks:
They have a well-equipped Testing laboratory called Textile Testing Services limited for all kinds of Textile Testing. The laboratory of viyellatex is approved by world renowned buyer Marks & Spenser and also Puma. Now they are just testing their internal tests but they are trying to develop their
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laboratory. So that external author can send their textile material for testing by suitable testing fees.
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Organogram of Dyeing Section: C.E.O (Fabric) G.M / D.G.M / A.G.M (01) Manager (01) Assistant Manager (02) Senior Executive (03) Executive (03) Production Officer (03) Senior Supervisor Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor Production Operator Production Helper
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Responsibility of production officer Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing. Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check. Program making, sample checking color measurement. Control the supervisor’s operators & helpers of machines. To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch preparation & PH check. o To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control department o To check daily production report. o To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture & applied them correctly to the production to get best product o o o o o
Job Description: Title: Production officer.
Dept: Dyeing Report to: Senior production officer. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.
Title: Senior production officer. Dept: Dyeing. Report to: Dyeing manager. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities. Duties & Responsibilities : Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production. Checks the different log books of different areas & report to management. Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing. Checks out the plan to control the best output from supervisor & workers. To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production. Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by the management. Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing m/c. REMARKS: The manpower management system VIYELLATEX GROUP is well arranged. Every officers & stuffs are responsible for their duty. But there are only six INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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textile engineers in the industry 11 for dyeing & 1 for Finishing. It is sufficient for Finishing). It is sufficient for fluent production. The efficiency of the \\orker should be increased for more quality production.
Dyeing Machine Capacity Bulk Dyeing Machine Machine Number Machine Number: 01 Machine Number: 02 Machine Number: 03 Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number:
04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15
Total Capacity=
Capacity in Kg 500 1000 1000 250 500 750 200 250 750 1120 840 560 1680 840 1120
11,360
Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity Machine Number Capacity in Kg Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number: Machine Number:
01 02 03 04 05 06 07
25 25 30 120 30 60 60
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Total Capacity= 350 Total capacity of Bulk dyeing & Sample dyeing machine= 11,710 Kg
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Bulk Dyeing Machine Specification Dyeing Machine: 01(FONGS) Machine name Machine NO. NO. of nozzle Origin
Fongs( Atmospheric m/c) ECO-38-2T 2 CHINA
Dyeing Machine: 02(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction
Thie’s (High temperature m/c). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 1000 kg 45506 04 140°C 17696 liter 0.35 Mpa : 0.55 Mpa 2004
Dyeing Machine: 03(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction
Thie’s (High temperature m/c). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 1000 kg 43891 04 140°C 17696 liter 0.35 Mpa 0.55 Mpa 2003
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Dyeing Machine: 04(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction
Thie’s (High temperature m/c). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 250 kg 41346 01 140°C 6605 liter 0.35 Mpa 0.525 Mpa 2002
Dyeing Machine: 05(THIES) Machine Name Thie’s (High temperature m/c). Type Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Origin Germany Capacity 500 kg Model 41350 Number of nozzle 02 Max. working Temperature 140°C Max. Liquor Capacity 10193 liter Working Pressure 0.35 Mpa Test pressure 0.525 Mpa Year of Construction 2002 Dyeing Machine: 06(THIES) Machine Name Type Origin Capacity Model Number of nozzle Max. working Temperature Max. Liquor Capacity Working Pressure Test pressure Year of Construction
Thie’s (High temperature machine). Farbekessel eco- soft Plus Germany 750 kg 41354 03 140°C 13901liter 0.35 Mpa 0.525 Mpa 2002
Dyeing Machine: 07(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Origin Capacity Model No. Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
CHINA 200 kg SHI 0515416/25 01 PD 5500 2003 CAT2 140°C 380 KPa 585KPa 380 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN)Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 08(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 250 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/07 Number of nozzle 01 Design code PD 5500 2003 CAT2 Design Temp. 140°C Design Pressure 380 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 585KPa Safety Valve Set 380 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 09(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 750 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/17 Number of nozzle 03 Design code PD 5500 2003 CAT2 Design Temp. 140°C Design Pressure 380 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 585KPa Safety Valve Set 380 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 10(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 1120 kg
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Model No. Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
SHI 0515416/23 04 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140°C 350 KPa 520KPa 350 KPa 2007 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 11(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 840 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/19 Number of nozzle 03 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140°C Design Pressure 350 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 520KPa Safety Valve Set 350 KPa Year of Construction 2007 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 12(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 560 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/03 Number of nozzle 02 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140°C Design Pressure 350 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 520KPa Safety Valve Set 350 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 13(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 1680 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/27
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Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
06 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140°C 390 KPa 585KPa 390 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 14(FONGS)
Machine Name Origin Capacity Model No. Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 840 kg SHI 0515416/22 03 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140°C 380 KPa 585KPa 380 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 15(FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 1120 kg Model No. SHI 0515416/29 Number of nozzle 04 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140°C Design Pressure 380 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 585KPa Safety Valve Set 380 KPa Year of Construction 2005 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Specification Of Sample Dyeing Machine Dyeing Machine: 01 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 25 kg
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Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
01 PD 5500 2000 CAT2 140°C 400 KPa 650KPa 400 KPa 2003 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 02 (THIES) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Max. Operating Pressure Max. Operating Temp. Liquor Capacity Year of Construction
Thies (High temperature machine). GERMANY 25 kg 01 0.35MPa 140°C 523 lit. 2002
Dyeing Machine: 03 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 30 kg 01 PD 5500 2003 CAT2 140°C 400 KPa 650KPa 400 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 04 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 120 kg 01 PD 5500 2003 CAT2
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Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
140°C 400 KPa 650KPa 400 KPa 2005 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 05 (FONGS)
Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp. Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 30 kg 01 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140°C 350 KPa 520KPa 350 KPa 2006 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Dyeing Machine: 06 (FONGS) Machine Name Fongs (High temperature machine). Origin CHINA Capacity 60 kg Number of nozzle 01 Design code PD 5500 2006 CAT2 Design Temp. 140°C Design Pressure 350 KPa Hydraulic Test pressure 520KPa Safety Valve Set 350 KPa Year of Construction 2007 Manufacturer Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd Dyeing Machine: 07 (FONGS) Machine Name Origin Capacity Number of nozzle Design code Design Temp.
Fongs (High temperature machine). CHINA 60 kg 01 PD 5500 2006 CAT2 140°C
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Design Pressure Hydraulic Test pressure Safety Valve Set Year of Construction Manufacturer
350 KPa 520KPa 350 KPa 2007 Fongs National Engineering (SHENZHEN) Company Ltd
Bulk Dyeing Machine Machine No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
Loading/Nozzle 250*2 250*4 250*4 200*1 250*2 250*3 200*1 250*1 250*3 280*4 280*3 280*2 280*6 280*3 280*4
Controller FC 28 T 737xL T 737Xl T 737xL T 737xL T 737xL FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22 FC 22
Sample Dyeing Machine Machine NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Loading/Nozzle 25*1 25*1 30*1 120*1 30*1 60*1 60*1
Controller FC28 T505 FC22 FC22 FC22 FC22 FC22
Raw materials for dyeing Raw materials used in the dyeing section are: 1. Grey fabrics 2. Dyes 3. Chemicals.
Grey fabrics INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Following types of gray fabrics are dyed in ViyellaTex: Single jersey Single jersey with lycra Polo pique Back Pique Single lacoste Double Lacoste Fleece Rib Rib with lycra 1Χ1 rib
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List of dyes used in VIYELLATEX LTD. Name of the Dyes
Type
Source
Origin
Ciba Yellow FN2R Ciba Red FNR Ciba Red FN2BL Ciba Blue FNR Ciba Br. Blue FNG Ciba Red FN3F Ciba Yellow F4G Ciba Scarlet F3G Ciba Yellow WR Ciba Red WB Ciba Navy WB Ciba Dk. Blue WR Ciba Red HF Ciba Orange HR Ciba Navy H2G Ciba Black WHF DrimarineYellow HFR Drimarine Red HF2B Drimarine Blue HFRL DrimarineYellowCLR Drimarine Red CL5B Drimarine Navy CLB DrimarineOrangCLR Drimarine Yellow GL DrimarineTurquisCLB DrimarineTurquisK2B Drirnarin Blue CLBR Drimarin Blue K2RL Remazol Yellow~RR Remazol Red RR Remazol Blue RR RemazolBrBlue(RSPL) Remazol Blue BB Remazol T/Blue G Remazol Yellow 3RS Remazol Red 3BS Dianix Yellow SEG Dianix Red CC Dianix Blue ER Dianix Black CCR Dianix Navy CC Sunfix Yellow EXF Sunfix Red EXF Sunfix Blue EXF Sunfix Blue BRF
Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye
Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Clariant Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar Dychufix Dychufix Dychufix Dychufix Dychufix Sumitomo Sumitomo Sumitomo Sumitomo
GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN KORIA KORIA KORIA KORIA
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Sunfix Yellow S3RD Sunfix Red S3BD Bezactive Red VBN Bezactive Yellow V2R BezactiveTurquisVC Bezactive Red S2B Bezactive blue-SLF Imcozyn Black VB Imcozyn Red 3BF Imcozyn Yellow E3R Irncozyn Blue V3R Imcozyn T. Blue VG ImcozynBr.OrangeVR Terasil Yellow W4G TerasilG.Yellow W3R Terasil Navy WRS Terasil Red W4BS Terasil Blue WBLS Terasil Black WNS Terasil Black BFE Levafix Blue CA Levafix Rubine CA Levafix Amber CA
Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Disperse Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye
Sumitomo Sumitomo Bezema Bezerna Bezema Bezerna Bezerna Impo color Impo color Impo color Impo color Impo color Impo color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Dyestar Dyestar Dyestar
KORIA KORIA SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND SWITZERLAND GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN EUROPEAN/ASIAN
Ciba Yellow HG Ciba Blue HRN Ciba Red HBL Ciba Orange EBR
Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye Reactive Dye
Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color Swiss Color
GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY GERMANY
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Different Types of Chemicals Used In Viyellatex With Their Brand Name CHEMICAL NAME Wetting agent Levelling agent Anti-creasing agent Per Oxide Stabilizer Caustic Soda Ash H2O2 Optical Brightening Agent H2O2 Killer Acitic Acid Sequestering Agent Enzyme Electrolyte / Salt Detergent Soaping Agent
Softener Fixing Agent
BRAND NAME Feloson NOF A-41
COUNTRY NAME Germany China
Kapavon CL Kapazon H-53 CBB Rucorit Wez Caustic Soda Ash H2O2 Uvitex-BAM Uvitex-BHV Uvitex-BBT Syno White 4Bk Kapatex-PKS Acitic Acid Securon-540 CS Polyclean-SP Bio-ACE Biopolish-B41 Sodium Sulphate Anhydrose Glubar Salt Rukozen-WBL Diwet PIUS Rukozen-NZA Dekol ISN Cyclonon XCW Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic) Nerosoft-NI(non-ionic) Purrustol-IMA Sandofix-EC Protan FCE-375
Germany Germany China China China+ Korea GERMANY
Germany India China India China Srilanka India Germany India Germany China China Germany Germany
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Check pH Runtime20′
Salt dissolving
15 minutes
Runtime20′
Check pH
In case of s/j low gsm fabric anti-creasing agents have to use in scouring & with R- hot. In case of s/j low gsm fabric heating and cooling during scouring & R- hot have do with gradient. Heating-2.5°C/min. Colling-1.5°C/min It is 60°C isothermal dyeing.
Runtime10′
Color dosing
Linear dosing 35 minutes
Soda dosing
70%progressive 50 minutes
DYEING CURVE FOR LIGHT SHADE
Leveling agent Level in
60°C
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MIR 10′
Bath drop
Sample check
10′
Check pH
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Runtime10′
Salt dissolving
10 minutes
Runtime15′
Check pH Color dosing
Linear dosing 30 minutes
Runtime20′
Soda dosing
70%progressive 50 minutes
In case of s/j low gsm fabric anti-creasing agents have to use in scouring & with R- hot. In case of s/j low gsm fabric heating and cooling during scouring & R- hot have to do with gradient. Heating-2.5°C/min. Colling-1.5°C/min It is 60°C isothermal dyeing.
60°C
Leveling agent
Level in
Check pH
Sample check
10′
Check Check pH pH
DYEING CURVE FOR MEDIUM/ DARK SHADE
Bath drop
MIR 10′
Some sample with recipe Color: White Nature of fabric: S/J GSM: 160 M:L-1:7 Feloson NOF=0.5% Kapazon-H53=0.75% Caustic-3 g/l H2O2 -12 g/l BAM (OBA) – 0.8400% 4BK=0.6180% Acetic Acid=1 g/l Securon-540=0.5%
SAMPLE
Color= Black Nature of fabric=PC(Fleece) GSM= 280 M:L=1:6 For Polyester part dyeing Feloson NOF=1% AB-45=1% T Yell W-3R=0.16800% T Red W 4BS=0.3400% T Black SNRL=2.3880 % For Reduction Cleaning Hydrous=3 g/l Caustic=3 g/l Pretreatment WBL=0.7% CBB=0.5 g/l Caustic=2 g/l H2O2=2.5 g/l PC=0.75 g/l Acetic Acid=1 Enzyme INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Acid=0.8 B11=0.75 Securon-540=0.5 Cotton part dyeing A41=0.5% SUN Yell MF3RD=0.73% SUN Red MF3BD=0.3365% RS Black-WM=5.6416% Salt=90 g/l Soda ash=5 g/l Caustic=1.75 g/l After treatment Acetic Acid=0.8 g/l JS100=1.5% SAMPLE
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Taurquies color Nature of fabric: S/J GSM= 160 Pretreatment NOF=0.5% CL=0.5% Feloson NOF=0.7% KAPAZON-h53=0.5% KAPAVON –CL=1% Caustic=2 g/l H2O2=2.5 g/l ROCORIT-WEZ=0.75 g/l Acetic Acid=1 Acetic Acid=0.8 Biopolish-B11=1.5 g/l Securon-540=0.5%
SAMPLE
Dyeing CS=0.5% KAPAVON –CL=0.5% SV=1.5% ADM=1% IM BR YELL V-4GL=0.8060% TURQ V-G=0.6800% BLUE VCR=0.0132% Salt=50 g/l Soda=ash=14 g/l After treatment Acetic Acid=0.8% Sapamine C.W.S=1.5%
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FLOW CHART FOR DYEING BATCHING
SELECT M/C NO. FABRIC LOADING SELECT PRODUCTION PROGRAMME PRETREATMENT SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO DYEING POST TREATMENT UNLOAD
Process Flow Chart for Machine Wash NOF ↓ Caustic ↓ Hydrous Run time 20´ at 130ºC
Process Flow Chart for Deminaralization INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Fabric load ↓ Water fill ↓ NOF + A. Acid (Run time10´) ↓ At 60ºC Drain bath
Process Flow Chart for Scouring & Bleaching
Water fill( From PT) ↓ Detergent/wetting agent + Stabilizer +Anticreasing agent (inject) ↓ At 60ºC Caustic (Linear dosing 5´) ↓At 60ºC H2O2 dosing ↓At 70ºC Then temp. raised to 105ºC & run 30´ ↓ Water drain ↓ H2O2 Killer hot wash (800C X10 min) ↓ HOT WASH (10´) ↓ Water Drain & Water fill ↓ Acetic Acid (Run 10´ at 60ºC) ↓ Water drain
Enzyme wash
As per Buyer requirement Enzyme wash is given. Water fill + fabric load ↓ Temp. raised to 55ºC ↓ A.Acid(inject) ↓PH check (4.5-4.7) Enzyme (Dosing for 10´ ) ↓Run 60´ at 55ºC Sequestering agent at 90ºC ↓ Run 10´ Water drain
Process Sequence of Dyeing (for different types shade) Flow Chart for OBA Treatment INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Water fill + fabric load ↓ Temp. raised to 70ºC ↓ Detergent/wetting agent + Stabilizer ↓ (Inject) Caustic dosing 10´ at 70ºC ↓ Run 10´ H202 Dosing 10´ ↓Run 10´ OBA dosing 10´ ↓Temp. raised to 105ºC & run 50´ Cooling to 78ºC ↓ Water drain & Water fill ↓ Normal hot wash at 80ºC ↓ Bath drain & water fill ↓Temp. controlled at 55ºC Acetic Acid inject & run 10´ ↓ Water drain & Water fill ↓ CS hot wash at 90ºC ↓ Run 10´ Water drain & Water fill ↓ Normal wash at 45ºC 10´ ↓ Fabric unload
Dyeing Sequence for Light Shade Level In (Water from PT at 600 C)& Fabric load INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Check ph 6.5-7 Leveling agent injection Run 10 min Color dosing linear (600 c x 35 min) Run 20 min Salt dissolving (600 c x 15 min) Run 20 min Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min) Check ph 11.5 Sample check MIR rising 10 min Bath drop
Dyeing Sequence for Dark Shade Level In (Water from PT at 600 ) & Fabric load Check ph 6.5-7 Leveling agent injection Run 10 min Salt dosing (600 c x 10 min) Run 20 min Color dosing (600 c x 30 min) Run 20 min Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min) Check ph 11.5 Sample check MIR rising 10 min Bath drop
Process Flow Chart for After treatment Water fill ↓
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MIR wash 10´ ↓ Normal hot 70ºC ↓Run time 15´ MIR wash 15´ ↓ Acetic Acid inject at 45ºC & run 10´ ↓ Hot with NOF + Soaping agent ↓ At 80ºC & run 10´ Sample check ↓ Wash at 90ºC for 10´ ↓ Sample check at 78ºC ↓ Rinsing ↓ Fixing agent + Softener ↓ Sample check ↓ If OK , Then bath drain ↓ If not OK, Then Addition is given
Addition Dye dosing for 20´ ↓Run 20´ at 60ºC Sample taken ↓ If ok, Then Bath drain ↓ If not ok, Then Topping is Done
Flow Chart for CVC (blended fleece fabric) Dyeing Pre-wash Fabric load + Water fill ↓ Wash with NOF at 80ºC & run10´ INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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↓ Rinsing ↓ Bath drain
Polyester part dyeing Water fill ↓ Acetic Acid (Injection) Run time (10 min x 450C) PH Check (PH- 4.5) Color dosing (15min x 450C) Raising Temp at 1300C & Run time 45 min ↓ Cooling at 78ºC Sample Check Drain Normal hot wash Drain
Reduction cleaning Water fill ↓ Caustic Dosing (700C X 5 min) Run 20´ Raising Temp at 900C Hydrose dosing Run time (20 min) Bath Drain ↓ Normal wash Drain
Cotton part dyeing Level In (water from P.T) Levelling agent injection
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Salt dosing (10 min x 60˚C) Run time 20 min Color dosing (30 min x 60˚C) Run time 20 min Soda dosing (50 min x 60˚C) Run time 10 min Caustic dosing (30 min x 60˚C) Check ph Sample check Normal hot wash Drain MIR rising 10 min Bath drop
After Treatment Water fill ↓Temp. raised Acetic Acid inject at 45ºC & run 10´ ↓ J.S100 at 80ºC & run
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Dyeing Sequence for migration: Level In (Water from p.t at 600 ) Check ph Leveling agent injection (600 c) Color dosing linear (600 c x 35 min) Run 20 min 0 Salt dosing (60 c x 15 min) Check ph Raise temp 800 Run 20 min Down temp 600 Soda dosing (70% Progressing) (600 c x 50 min) Sample check MIR rising 10 min Bath drop
About Machine In VIYELLATEX two Brands of machines are usedTHIES (GERMANY) FONGS(CHINA) Comparison between Fongs And Thies dyeing m/s Parameter 1 .Manufacturer 2.No of additional 01 tank 3.Heat exchanger Vertical 4.OperatingTSystem 737 XL 2 nozzle/lid,So 5.Nozzle& Production
Thies
Fongs
Germany
China 02 Horizontal FC 22/FC 28 1 nozzle/lid, Less pro dn.
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6.Chemical Has Vibrating Tank
Compressed air
Types of M/CS according to Temperature High Temperature M/C Atmospheric M/C
Main Parts Of The Machines Main tank Preparation tank Pump Filter Heat Exchanger Additional tank Lid
Filter The filter eliminates the loose fibres in the dye bath, consequently it reduces the loose fibre loads on the fabric. Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with the result that the dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with the effect that running is disturbed and tangles can occur. automatic self cleaning filter system No cleaning of filter. No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to automatic regulation system. No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor.
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Additional Tank Addition tank is used for Color dosing Salt dosing Chemical dosing Auxiliaries injection Salt dissolving
Heat exchanger
Theory of Application Two fluids, of different starting temperatures, flow through the heat exchanger. One flows through the tubes (the tube side) and the other flows outside the tubes but inside the shell (the shell side). Heat is transferred from one fluid to the other through the tube walls, either from tube side to shell side or vice versa. The fluids can be either liquid or gases on either the shell or the tube side. In order to transfer heat efficiently, a large heat transfer area should be used, so there are many tubes. In this way, waste heat can be put to use. This is a great way to conserve energy.
Function of dissolution pump Dissolution pump makes the chemical concentration (salt,soda,dye,auxiliaries) low before passing it to the main tank. This concentration is reduced in 1:4 ratio(liquor from additional tank: liquor from main tank). As a result rate of chemical dosing become slow which gives better fixation. Thus better color yield and even dyeing can obtain.
Advantages of variable chamber setting Better alignment of the fabric INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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More loading facility Less Entanglement
Ways of liquor flow from additional tank TWO WAYS1. Injection 2. Dosing •
Linear dosing
•
Progressive dosing
•
Decreasive dosing
FEATURES OF FONG’S ATMOSPHERIC M/C The M/C is designed for the pre-treatment, dyeing and aftertreatment under atmospheric condition.
Nozzle is sized for smooth passing through by the fabric and extensive exchange with the dyeing liquid.
Two standard nozzle sizes with sufficiently large diameter are available. Circulation pump is sized for heavy fabric Production capacity:500kgs Max temperature:98◦C Max pressure:1atm
Features of high temperature machine The M/C is designed for the pre-treatment, dyeing and aftertreatment which can provide temperature up to 140◦c nozzle lead get interlock after temperature exceed 80◦C
Loading per nozzle 250kg Design pressure:350-550kpa Design Temp
:140◦C
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Hydraulic Test Pressure:585Kpa Manufacturer: Germany(Thies),Taiwan(Fong’s) No of nozzles:1-6
Features of FONG’S(HSJ) machines Variable Loading (VL) storage chamber design gives extra capacity to carry loading up to 280 kg per tube Heat Exchanger of extreme efficiency gives the largest heating rate with minimum heat loss to the environment Multi Saving Rinsing System (MSR) shortens the dye cycle and reduces the water consumption Advanced Intelligent Rinsing System (MIR) controls the rinsing water consumption and shortens the rinsing process Highly optimized machine structure reaches the lowest possible liquor ratio of 1:4.5 to run the machine . Dissolution pump for proper circulation of liquor. safety valve test:350kpa Maximum fabric speed: 400 m/min. Maximum working temperature: 140 °C Design pressure:350kpa Hydraulic test pressure:510kpa
MIR RINSING Multi-function intelligent rinsing system If the temperature is below 80°C It is a Low Level Continuous Rinsing Shorten Rinsing Time Save Rinsing Water Fill and Drain at the same time at low level
MSR Rinsing MULTI- SAVING RINSING SYSTEM
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If the temperature above 80°c It is Combined Cooling and Rinsing at high temperature Save Steam in Hot Rinsing Rinsing efficiency at higher temperature is faster, so rinsing time is shortened
The factors to feed and check before loading Variable Chamber setting according to the linear density and loading. Calculate and feed the exact MLR and feed in batch Data Ensure the MSR level and MIR level and flow. Ensure the pH of Dyeing
The factors to concentrate during dyeingThe operator should change the filter After Enzyme wash After Drain dyeing Bath After Rinsing Bath
DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART Water level before fabric loading(Lit) Loading Time(min) Water level after fabric loading(after running 05 min) Dosing time of caustic Run time Dosing time of per-oxide Total time need to raise temp.of 105: Gradiant (Degree/min) Total run time(min) Total time need to cooling at 80c Gradiant (Degree/min) Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c Total run time after acid dosing Check PH INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing
Check residual per-oxide(ppm) CheckPHbeforeenzymedosing Total run time during enzyme
DYEING
Water level (Lit) Check PH before color/salt dosing Total time for color dosing Total run time Total time for salt dosing Total run time Check PH after salt dosing Total time for soda dosing Check PH after soda dosing(Afterrunningthem/c05min) Total time need to B/D Drain the m/c Total time for MIR/ Rinsing Drain the m/c Total time for acid Check PH and TDS(ppm) Temp for soaping Soaping time Drain the m/c 2ndsoapingtemp Soapingtime Drain the m/c Total MIR/Rinsing time
Common dyeing faults with their remedies Uneven dyeing Causes: Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). Improper color dosing. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Using dyes of high fixation property. Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Lack of control on dyeing m/c Remedies: By ensuring even pretreatment. By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
Batch to Batch Shade variation Causes: Fluctuation of Temperature. Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. Dyes lot variation. Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. Improper pretreatment.
Remedies: Use standard dyes and chemicals. Maintain the same liquor ratio. Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. Maintain the same dyeing cycle. Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. .
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The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
Patchy dyeing effect Causes: Entanglement of fabric. Faulty injection of alkali. Improper addition of color. Due to hardness of water. Due to improper salt addition. Dye migration during intermediate dyeing. Uneven heat in the machine, etc Remedies: By ensuring proper pretreatment. Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. Proper salt addition.
Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation: Causes: Poor migration property of dyes. Improper dyes solubility. Hardness of water. Faulty m/c speed, etc Remedies:
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Use standard dyes and chemicals. Proper m/c speed. Use of soft water
Crease mark: Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope Shock cooling of synthetic material If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal Due to high speed m/c running Remedies: maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Reducing the m/c load Higher liquor ratio
Dye spot: Causes: Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath. Remedies: By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
Wrinkle mark Causes: Poor opening of the fabric rope
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Shock cooling of synthetic material High temperature entanglement of the fabric Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature Higher liquor ratio
Softener Mark: Causes: Improper mixing of the Softener. Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies: Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. Proper Mixing of the softener before addition. Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
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Finishing: Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber
Objective of finishing: Improving the appearance Luster, whiteness, etc —
Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its softness suppleness fullness, etc. ,
,
Wearing qualities, none soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc. —
Special properties required for particular uses water proofing, flame —
—
proofing, etc. Covering of the faults in the original cloth. Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of finishing: a) b)
1) Chemical finishing: Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers. Application of the handle modifying products / additives. 2) Mechanical finishing: • Mechanical treatment with machines
Finishing effects: • Easy - care • Crease recovery. • Dimensional stability. • Good abrasion resistance. • Improved tear strength. • Good sew ability • Soft or stiff handle. • Shine or luster
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Organogram of Finishing Section: Executive Director (E.D) Manager / Asst.Manager Sr. Principle officer (P.O)
Finished Fabric
On line System
Finished Collar / Cuff
Off line system
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor
Quality Controller Asst. Quality Controller
Quality Controller
Quality Controller
Asst. Quality Controller
Asst. Quality Controller
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INSPECTED FABRIC
DEWATERING M/ C
SLITTING & DEWATERING DEWATERING M/ C M/ C
SLITTING & DEWATERING M/ C
ROLLING M/ C
STENTER
WEIGHTING M/ C
OPEN COM PACTOR
TUBE COMPACTOR
OPEN COM PACTOR
STENTER
DRYER
TUBE COM PACTOR
STENTER & TUBE DRYER FABRIC INSPECTION TABLE
RAISING M/ C
RAISING M/ C
RAISING M/ C
TOILET
SUEDIN G M/ C
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Flow chart of finishing section : Finishing Section
Open fabric
Tube fabric
Slitting machine
Dewatering machine
Stentering
Drying Machine
Compacting machine
Tube compacting machine
Final Inspection
Final inspection
Flow chart:
For Peach finish/Brush: Slitting ↓ Stenter ↓ Sueding/Raising ↓ Stenter ↓ Compacting
For Lycra:
Slitting ↓ Heat Setting ↓ Sewing ↓ Drying ↓ Slitting ↓ Stenter ↓ Compacting
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SLITTING MACHINE Slitting Machine specification: No of Slitting m/c : 02 Slitting m/c-1: Brand name- Corino(SH) Country- Italy Year of manufacturing-2007 Slitting m/c-2: Brand name- Bianco(SH) Country- Italy Year of manufacturing-2007 Velocity maximum-90m/min Slitting: Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing.
Machine parts: 1. Rotary blade: To cut the fabric through break Wales line. 2. Ring: To help cutting. 3. Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting. 4. Plaiting: To plait the fabric. 5. Sensor: Sense for cutting through break Wales line.
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Slitting Machine
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Working principle: The slitting m/c has 4 units - initial squeezer, de-twisting, slitter and padder. After dyeing completed and falling of water from fabric the fabric is fed in slitting m/c. So it is necessary to remove some water initially for the case of further processing in this m/c. The initial squeezer does this work. The de-twisting unit removes twists that may present in tubular rope form fabric. This unit has 3 de-twisting rollers, one rotation drum and 2 feeler rollers with sensors. By these rollers it detects twist in fabric and removes by rotating rope fabric in opposite direction. Before slitting there is a blower which blows air to open the tubular fabric & makes it easy to pass over cigger. The cigger can be extended in circumference and opens the tubular fabric in full circumference. Slitting is done by using open mark detecting golden eye by around knife. Then the fabric passes through the padder where washing or chemical treatment is done. Squeezer is used to remove 60-70% of water. After removing water width is controlled by stretcher and fabric is delivered by folding device. Operational parameter: -Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar) -Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
Function of the Machine: Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing. To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering. Delivered fabric in crease free state. Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer. It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism.
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DEWATERING MACHINE Dewatering Machine specification: No of Dewatering m/c
: 02
Machine no Machine name Brand name Country Padder pressure Pressure capacity
: 01 : Dewatering : Heliot : France : 1-1.5 bar : 4 bar
Machine no Machine name Brand name Country Padder pressure Pressure Capacity
: 02 : Dewatering : Heliot : France : 1-1.5bar : 4 bar
Function:
Reduce water content. Apply chemicals. Apply over feed to give some compaction. Open the fabric from the rope form. Width wise stretch the fabric. Plait the fabric.
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Dewatering Machine
Fabric path in Dewatering Machine
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Working principle of Dewatering: After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed. There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is performed De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric flat wise and adjust the width. The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it. Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where, - One for removing water and - Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener. But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open width knitted fabrics are applied finishing treatment later in stenter. Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase
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DRYER Machine specification : No. of Dryer : 02 Dryer no -1 Brand name- Heliot Origin- France Chamber-3 Year of construction – 2006 Ratiomatic Burner: Brand name:ECLIPSE Year-03/2002 Capacity-300 kw Voltage-230/400 v Frequency-50Hz Fuel- Natural gas Pressure- (150-500) m bar Dryer no- 2 Brand name-Santex AG Origin – Switzerland Type-SANTASHINK Chamber -5 Year of construction- 2008 Fuel combustion chamber: Fuel- Natural gas Fuel pressure-7.2m bar Capacity-300kw Voltage-240/400v Frequency-50Hz Year-12/2007
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Dryer
Working principle of dryer: After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. The main function of the dryer is given below, - To dry the fabric. - To control the overfeed system. - To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M. This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net .When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting line. The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.
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STENTER Machine specification : No. of Stenter : 02 Stenter m/c no - 01 Brand name - Sun-Super Country of origin -South Korea Manufacturing date-: 2006 Width Range -2700 Maximum Speed - 100m/min Chamber - 8 Stenter m/c no – 2 Brand name - BRUCKNER Country - Germany Manufacturing Year – 2004 Chamber – 5 Maximum steam pressure – 2bar Maximum air pressure – 10bar Ratiomatic Burner for Fuel Combustion: Origin - Germrny Year-11/2003 Capacity-200 kw Voltage-230/400 v Frequency-50/60Hz Fuel- Natural gas Pressure- 50 m bar
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Important parts of stenter -Burner (12) - Exhaust air fan (16) -Over feed roller. - Suction fan (12) -Nozzle -Chain arrangement.
Stenter machine
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FUNCTION OF STENTER: -
Drying Shrinkage control. Heat setting. Width control Finishing chemical application. Loop control. Moisture control. Spirility control.
STANDARD OPERATING FABRIC IN STENTER: Fabric Type
GSM
Dia
PARAMETER
Tempera Over ture Feed
Single 115-150 2”+ jersey Single 160-220 2”+ jersey Lycra Single 160-200 4”+ jersey
110-140
FOR
DIFFERENT
Padder Pressue
Speed (rpm)
Blower rpm 11001300 12001400 12001400
2 bar
30-35
2.5 bar
25-30
130-160
4045% 4045% 50%
2 bar
25-30
Lycra Single 200-250 4”+ jersey
140-160
50%
2 bar
24-28
12001400
Pique
160-200 3”+
130-160
190-220 4”+
130-160
1.52bar 2 bar
25-30
Lycra Pique
4045% 50%
Fleece/Terry
260-300 4”+
140-170
2 bar
20-25
1x1 Rib
160-220 2”+
130-160
4045% 45%
2 bar
24-28
2x2 Rib
190-220 2”+
140-160
45%
2 bar
20-25
Interlock
190-220 3”+
130-160
50%
2 bar
20-25
12001400 12001400 13001400 13001400 12001400 12001400
120-170
20-25
*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight.
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COMPACTOR Machine specification of compactor: No. of Compacting m/c: 02 Tube Compactor: Machine name – Tube compactor Brand name – Heliot Country - France Manufacturing Year – 2004
Tube Compactor machine Open Compactor: Machine name – Open compactor Brand name – FERRARO Country – Italy Manufacturing Year – 2004
Open Compactor machine
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Function • • • • •
To control shrinkage. To control width. To control GSM. To smooth fabric. Heat seating of fabric for lycra.
Important parts -
Over feed roller.
-
Expander.
-
Blanket(2)
Operational parameter: -Set the temperature at 120 °C (as required) -Set the speed as much as possible (15-25 m/min).GSM m/c speed. -Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit.
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STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FABRIC IN OPEN COMPACTOR
Fabric type
Colour
Speed
Over Feed
Temperatur e
Single jersey
White Colour
15-18 15-18
25-30 25-30
Pique (s/j,d/j)
White Colour
15-18 15-18
Lycra s/j White Colour
12-16 12-16
1x1 Rib
White Colour
2x2 Rib
Interloc k
FOR
DIFFERENT
90-110 110-120
Blanket Pressur e 1.52bar
Teflon Pressur e 36psi
30-35 30-35
100 110-120
1.52bar
36psi
100-110 100-120
1.52bar
36psi
15-20 15-20
Full over feed 20-30 20-30
100 110-120
1.52bar
36psi
White Colour
12-15 12-15
25-30 25-30
100 110-120
1.52bar
36psi
White Colour
12-16 12-16
Full over feed
100 110-120
1.52bar
36psi
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*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle. *Others fabric feed, straight.
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RAISING MACHINE Machine specification of Raising Machine : No. of Raising m/c : 02 Raising m/c - 01(Single drum) Brand name - Lafer Country - Italy Cylinder -1 Drum Speed - 110 Drum Dia - 68 inch Machine Speed - 40 m/min Pile Roller - 12 Counter Pile Roller - 12 Manufacturing Year –2002
Fabric path in Raising m/c (Single drum)
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Raising m/c-02(Double drum) Brand name – Lafer Country – Italy Cylinder- 2 Drum Speed - 110 Drum Dia - 68 inch Machine Speed - 40 m/min Pile Roller - 24 Counter Pile Roller - 24 Manufacturing Year –2002
Fabric path in Raising m/c (double drum)
FUNCTION OF RAISING MACHINE: ≈ To produce the brush effect. ≈ To produce the fleece fabric. ≈ To raise the fibre on the fabric surface.
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SUEDING MACHINE A sueder is sometimes referred to a s a sander since the machine consists of one or more rolls covered with sand paper as the abrasive. Fabrics traveling over these rolls develop a very low pile and the materials surface can be made to feel like suede leather. The hand will depend on the fiber composition, the filament count in the yarn and the intensity with which the fabric is worked. Filament fabrics can be made to feel like a spun fabric and all fabrics will have a softer hand. Machine Specification of Sueding Machine: No.Of Sueding m/c: 01 Brand name Country Cylinder Company name Model Drum Speed Drum Dia Machine Speed Manufacturing Year
: Lafer :Italy :1 : SPA Machine Tessili : GSI 106 : 110 : 72 inch : 40 m/min :2002
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Sample of Raised & Sueded Fabric: SAMPLES:
Single Drum Raised Fabric
Double Drum Raised Fabric
Single Drum Raised Fabric Fabric
Double Drum Raised
Sueded Fabric
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Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection :(Q.A.D) After completing finishing process here firstly check the shade as per buyer standard with dimensional stability from lab. Secondly check dia / width fabric weight or G.S.M Thirdly check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard. The every roll with every meter check as per four (04) point system. Make a report. If OK then ready for delivery. If not OK then identify the fault. If it is knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and mail, & requested the fabric for replacement. If it is dyeing fault & If make sure that it is reprocess able then give job card to dyeing department correction. And if is not reprocess able then reject the fabric & inform the dyeing department to replace the rejected quantity.
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FABRIC FAULTS, CAUSES AND REMIDIES
FAULT
CAUSE
REMIDIES
HOLE
DUE TO YARN BREAKAGE AND YARN FAULT IF THE DUST OF ENZYME IS NOT CLEAN PROPERLY OIL STICK ON FABRIC FROM NEEDLE, SINKER OR CYLINDER DYES POWDER FALLS ON TO THE WET FABRICS BEFORE INSPECTION IF FABRIC STORED IN WET FLOOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF YARN MIXED DURING KNITTING DIFFERENT DUST OR SLUBS MIXED DURING KNITTING IF SOFTENER IS USED UNDER 45ºC
USE GOOD QUALITY OF YARN
RUB MARK OIL STAIN DYE STAIN WATER SPOTS FLY YARN YARN CONTAMINATION SOFTENER SPOT PATCHES HAIRY NEEDLE LINE DEAD COTTON CREASE MARK
FLOW CONTINUOUS AIR TO FABRIC DURING COMPACTING USE SOLUBLE OIL AND KEEP THE M/CS CLEAN STORE THE FABRICS BY COVERING BY WASHING AND STORE FABRIC IN DRY PLACE COVER THE KNITTING M/C DURING KNITTING KEEP THE M/C AREA CLEAN
USE SOFTENER UNDER REQUIRED TEMP. IF SODA IS NOT USED USE SODA PROPERLY PROPERLY IF THE ENZYME WASH GIVE ENZYME WASH IS NOT PROPERLY PROPERLY DONE FOR FAULTY NEEDLE REPLACE THE FAULTY NEEDLE FOR IMMATURE FIBRE USE YARN OF MATURED FIBRE FOR THERMAL SHOCK, INCREASE DYEBATH UNEVEN TEMP. NOZZLEPRESSURE SLOWLY,MAINTAIN AND BAD QUALITY NOZZLE PRESSURE LEVELLING AGENT AND USE GOOD QUALITY LEVELLING AGENT
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Sample Development : Sample is the prototype or model o the garment, upon what the buyer can decide on how and whiter to confirm the order or not.
Organ gram of sample department : There are about 175 total employees working in the Viyellatex Group sample department including executives and workers. There are also some supervisors and coordinators to stimulate and take care the sample job. Let us see the organogram below to know more about the sample department Manager
Patten Master Pattern asst.
Officer/Coordinator
Officer. QC
Fabric Coordinator
QC/AQC
Sample man
Folding Man
Accessories Issue Man Cutter man Iron Man Purchase/Marketing man Sample Asst. Sample Input man Sample Operator
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Sampling Process Flowchart : Receiving Tec Pak from buyer (Via Merchandiser) CAD & Pattern Making (Styling & Measurement) Sample Making
Approval
Failed
Size Setting (One Development Stage)
Re Sample Making
Evaluation the Sample Pre Production Meeting (Decides on when to produce)
Grading of sample Sending sample to the buyer
Sending Sample to the Cutting Section
Market Making Production stats Approval Grading of Sample
Brief Description of the Sampling Processes: 1. Tec Pack Receiving: This is the firs stage of the sampling processes. In this stage Tec Pack or the technical pack is received from the buyer, via merchandiser. Tec pack contains all the specifications to produce a garment. 2. CAD & Pattern Making: In this stage pattern is made through CAD. Sometimes pattern is made manually, but CAD is more popular and easy. Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer technology for the design of objects, real or virtual. The design of geometric models for object shapes, in particular, is often called computer-aided geometric design (CAGD).However CAD often involves more than lust shapes. As in the manual drafting of technical and engineering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also symbolic information such as materials, processes. dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in twodimensional (“2D”) space; or curves, surfaces, or solids in threedimensional (“3D”) objects. Viyellatex pattern section uses OptiTex CAD INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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software for pattern making. 3. Sample Making: Sample making is the ultimate goal of this department. After making the pattern, the sample is made by using the pattern set. 4. Size Setting: After making the sample, size is set according to the Tec Pack. If there is any fault, the sample is redone 5. Pre Production (PP) Meeting: after the buyer has inspected the sample, a preproduction meeting is called. In this meeting buyer or his agent, merchandiser, sample manager. all remain present. They decide on how to and when to start the production. If the decision Okayed. the sample is ready to go for final production. 6. Grading of Sample: After finalizing the sample. grading is done to separate the samples and patterns from each others. 7. Marker After grading the samples. the design is inputted into the marker software. This software specifies how to set the pattern in the actual fabric. By using the marking software efficiently, fabric can be saved. Viyellatex uses Gerbar Garment Technology (GGT) for marker making. 8. Cutting: After making the pattern is delivered to the cutting unit and the fabric is cut for final production.
Sample Procedure There are some standard sample procedures after pattern making, the are as follows, Sourcing the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment Cutting (For Sample Only) Emblishment Sewing Iron Quality Control (QC) Pre check from Buyer QC Forwarding form the merchandiser Sending sample to the buyer
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Types of sample and their use Serial no.
Sample
Use
01
Proto/ Development Sample
02
Size set/Grad / Fitting
03
To converts pattern in to actual garment. To fit the styling of the garments
Sample Additional Sample (White
All these samples are made to how the
only magazine , Photo)
garments no the rack
04
Contract Seal / Seal sample
To gain approval before the bulk
05
Per Production (pp) sample
production To gain approval before the bulk
Production Sample
production To gain approval for shipping the
06 07
Sales Man Sample (SMS)
08
Rack Sample
garments To gain approval for shipping the garment To show the garment on the rack
Pattern Making Flowchart Tec Pack Deceived Sketching Pattern Printing / plotting Pattern Cutting Hardware & Software used in Pattern Making 1 CAD Software . Gerber Garments Technology (GGT) 2 Maker Making software - PCs 3 Gerber Plotter – 3 pcs 4 Pattern design software (PDS ) , opti Tex 4 PCs
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Types of Machine Sampling process is the most important department in a garment factory . With proper sample, one can not achieve enough order. Do there is several number of machine are used in the sampling section and craftsmanship in also very important Serial no 01 02
Type of machine Single needle Lock Stitch 4 Thread Over Lock
Qty in pcs 52 20
03 04
Flat Lock Blind Lock
17 1
05
2
06 07 08 09
Chain Stitch Machine (Single Needle) Over Lock Open stitch PMD Kansai Bar tack Button Attaché
10 11 12
Button Hole Shade stick Thread Recone
1 1 1
13
snap button
1
14 15
Plain Machine Zig Zag Back Neck beck tape attack
1 1
Total
1 1 1 1
Use Single Stitch Using 4 treads to lock the joint Normal Stitch Straight Overlock Hem Making chain stitch in the garment Over Lock Attaching Parts Heavy Stitch Attaching button in the garment Making button hole Straight sewing Thread transferring between bobbins Metal button Attachment Crosses sewing Attaching back neck tape
102
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Garments Cutting Section M/C Specification: Auto Spreader (4): M/C No.: 01 Brand Name: Jutex Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006 M/C No.: 02 Brand Name: Gerber Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006 M/C No.: 03 Brand Name: Gerber Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2007 M/C No.: 04 Brand Name: Gerber Country: Germany Year of Manufacturing: 2006 Hand Cutter (20): Brand Name: Mack (10) Country: Japan Speed: 3000/3600 Volt: 220 Frequency: 50/60 Hz Phase:1 Blade: Straight bar blade Brand Name: Blue Streak (10) Country: USA Speed: 2850 Volt: 220 Frequency: 50Hz Phase:1 Blade: Straight bar blade Auto Cutter (1): Brand Name: Gerber Country: Germany
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STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE OF CUTTING SECTION Cutting department receives Tech Pack from merchandiser and PP sheet of a style from IE. Cutting department checks whether sample, master pattern and fabrics are ready or not. If ready cutting department collect sample, marker and fabric (for size set) from the sample section, CAD section and fabric store. Cutting department gives a lay for size set sample, cut, sew in the size set line, print, wash, embroidery all are done and measurement are taken in all the steps.
If it is found that an adjustment is required in the master pattern, than cutting manager, buyer QC and pattern master check and make necessary correction as per grading and informs pattern and CAD section.
Then cutting department collects fabrics for bulk production from store and checks whether the GSM of every roll is fine or not and check the width of fabric for that lot.
If fabric GSM is ok, cutting department sends information to CAD section containing in which width and ratio of fabric they are going to cut that particular cutting.
CAD prepares marker and sends it If in that style self fabric for neck is required, to the cutting section. Cutting in charge informs the spreading machine operator to keep particular amount of fabric from each roll. Spreading starts and completed. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Marker is placed on the lay and then costape is attached. Cutting starts and completed.
Cuttin g parts are transferred to stickering Table.
Stickersare made ready. Stikering starts and completed and sticker attached parts are send to bundling area.
A spread sheet containi ng number of layer in that cutting, how many parts in a garment goes to the ckering sti Section by ps reader machine operator. Bundle cards are made ready.
Bundle cards omecto bundle area.
Bundling starts and completed. Rejection cutting starts and completed.
If other operations are needed such as Print, Embroidery , cutting departmentsends the cut panels to the storeand later collects them from the store and checks whether there is any alte r or not. Print and Embroidery panels are checked and if some alter and rejects are foundthe bundle cards are re-written making necessary adjustments.
Solid parts.
Store in the cutting input rack.
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SEWING SECTION List of machines in Sewing Unit:
Machine name
M/C quantity
Plain Stitching m/c
1290
Over Lock Stitching m/c
600
Flat Lock m/c
400
Button Hole m/c
25
Button Stitching m/c
25
Bar Tack m/c
40
Picoting m/c
02
Plain zig zig m/c
04
Kansai m/c
10
Two Needle Chain Stitching m/c
40
Two Needle Lock Stitching m/c
06
Suttle Stitching m/c
04
Fusing m/c
09
Heat Transfer m/c
13
Machine Specification: Brand Name Juki Pegasus Kansai Brother Pup Sun Star
Country Japan Japan Japan Japan Japan Korea
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Garments Finishing Section Process Sequence of Garments Finishing: 1. Quality inspection after sewing
Check hole body of the garments i.e., inside & outside , stitch, neck, placket, 4 point etc.
Q. I. Pass (Green carrier)
Reject (Red carrier)
Alter (Yellow carrier)
Spot (Blue carrier)
Spot room
Audit check lot- wise with measurement
Return sewing section Spot lifter
Q.I. check for alter ok
Again Q.I. check
Q. Pass
Q. Fail
Q. Pass
Q. Fail
Q. Pass
Q. Fail
Recheck 2. Thread Sucker Folding (Body turning)
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3. Running Iron 4. Quality check (finishing)
Reject
Q. Pass
Spot Spot room
Alter Take necessary action
Q. check
Q. Check
Pass
Fail
5. Measurement check
Alter
Pass
Measurement problem
Reject
Return to the sewing section for necessary action
Measurement iron
Q. check
Fail
Again Measurement check
Pass
6. Get-up check
Pass
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Pass
Fail
7. Sleeve and shoulder check
Alter
Pass
Fail/reject
Return to sewing section for necessary action 8. Hang tag attach
9. Getup iron (If appearance is not good) 10. Metal detector 11. Q. check (only appearance check due to new buyer or buyer requirement but all body are passed ) 12. Folding
Hard tag attach (if buyer requirement)
13. Poly pack 14. Assorting 15. Blister (According to buyer requirement) 16. cartoning 17. Carton sticker attach 18. SHIPMENT
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ORGANOGRAM CEO ↓ COO ↓ DGM ↓ EXECUTIVE ↓ PRODUCTION OFFICER ↓ SUPERVISOR ↓ ↓ ↓ ↓ SHIFTSUPERVISOR QUALITY SUPERVISOR SUPERVISOR ↓ ↓ ↓ OPERATOR Q.I STORE STUFF ↓ ↓ HELPER LOADER
STORE
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INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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MACHINE CAPACITY DRYING MACHINE: COSMOTEX: CAPACITY=50-60 KG TEMP= 150ºC ORIGIN = SPAIN GREENMAC: CAPACITY=40-50 KG TEMP = 70-75ºC ORIGIN = CHINA DYEING MACHINE: COSMOTEX: CAPACITY=150 KG TEMP.= 100ºC ORIGIN = SPAIN SAMPLE DYEING MACHINE: COSMOTEX: CAPACITY=30 KG TEMP.= 100ºC ORIGIN = SPAIN HYDRO-EXTRACTOR: GREENMAC: R.P.M= 2000 ORIGIN= CHINA
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Flow Chart for Garments dyeing (Light Shade) Water fill + garment load ↓ NOF ↓Run 10´ at 80ºC Normal wash two times at normal temp. ↓ Dyeing water fill ↓Check PH 6.5 Levelling agent ↓ Run time 10´ Temperature raised at 80ºC ↓ Color dosing 10´ ↓ run 10´ Salt dosing 10´ ↓ run 10´ Soda dosing 10´ ↓ Run until desired shade Bath drain ↓ Normal wash two times ↓ Acetic Acid dosing 2´ & run 5´ at normal temp. ↓ Bath drain ↓ E.C(Fixing agent) dosing 5´ & run 10´ at 45ºC ↓ Softener dosing 5´ & run 10´ at 45ºC ↓ Bath drain
M:L= 1:8
CHEMICALS USE IN WASHING INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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CHEMICA L NAME WETTING AGENT
BRAND NAME FELOSONNOF
LEVELLING AGENT
DBC
ANTI BACK STAIN FIXING AGENT
CYCLONEAN
SOAPING AGENT
CIBAPONE-R
SOFTENER
ROCOFIN GWE NEONSOPH T
REDUCE COLOR BLEEDING TO FIX THE DYE MOLECULES INTO THE FIBRE FASTNESS IMPROVEMENT, REDUCE UNFIXED DYE FEELING SOFT OF THE FABRIC INCREASES THE STRENGTH OF THE FABRIC to create acidity medium and to control the PH.
A.ACID
PRECATIONIZA TION BINDER
increases the spreading and penetrating properties of a liquid by lowering its surface tension low foaming, ensure smooth dyeing process. Are slowing down the exhaustion speed of the dyestuffs
SANDOFIXEC
STIFFENIN G AGENT
BLEACHIN G AGENT ENZYME
PURPOSE
OCEAN MAGIC BIOPOLISHB14 DENIMCOL FIX GF DENIMCOL GFC
TO CHANGE THE ORGINAL COLOR TO REMOVE HAIRINESS TO CONVERT THE FABRIC INTO ANIONIC FORM TO CATIONIC. to bind the pigment particles and develop adhesion to a surface
MANUFAC TURER CHT
ORIGIN SWITZERL AND
BASF
GERMANY
CHEMI WORLD UNICON RESOURCE
GERMANY
TEX CONCERN
TAIWAN/ INDIA/ KOREA
ITALY
CHINA MULTI CHEMI
SRILANKA
TYPES OF WASH 1. GARMENT WASH INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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2. 3. 4. 5.
ENZYME WASH ACID WASH NORMAL WASH VINTAGE WASH
GARMENT WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD ↓ DETERGENT DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN 5 MIN. BATH DRAIN ↓ NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES ↓ WATER FILL ↓ SOFTENER DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN 5 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD ↓ HYDRO-EXTRACTOR ↓ DRYER
ENZYME WASH WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD ↓ NOF DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55°C) ↓ A. ACID DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55°C) ↓CHECK PH=4.5 ENZYME DOSING (3 MIN. AT 55°C) ↓RUN UNTIL DESIRED RESULT BATH DRAIN ↓ NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES ↓ SOFTENER DOSING (3 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN 10 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD ↓ HYDRO-EXTRACTOR ↓ DRYER
VINTAGE WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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↓ SODA+ DETERGENT, DOSING (5 MIN. AT 60°C) ↓ RUN 20 MIN. BATH DRAIN ↓ A. ACID DOSING (3 MIN. AT NORMAL TEMP.) ↓RUN 5 MIN. SOFTENER DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN 10 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD ↓ HYDRO-EXTRACTOR ↓ DRYER
ACID WASH
WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD ↓ POTTASH DOSING (10 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN UNTIL REQUIRED RESULT BATH DRAIN ↓ META DOSING (10MIN. AT 45°C) ↓RUN 10 MIN. BATH DRAIN ↓ SOFTENER DOSING (3 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN 10 MIN BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD ↓ HYDRO-EXTRACTOR ↓ DRYER
NORMAL WASH WATER FILL + GARMENT LOAD INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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↓ DETERGENT DOSING (5 MIN. AT 45°C) ↓ RUN 5 MIN. BATH DRAIN ↓ NORMAL WASH TWO TIMES ↓ BATH DRAIN & UNLOAD ↓ HYDRO-EXTRACTOR ↓ DRYER
Check Points Require of shade Hand feeling Printing Embroidery Fabrics fault Washing effects Spirality Label Zipper Bleeding
Reject
Faults found in garments after washing Needle damage INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Fabric damage Print problem Spot
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PRINTING General Overview Area Covered=50,000 sft( 2 flo0r) Manpower=450 Per table=12-13 Auto screen m/c=7-8 Heat press m/c=3-4 Curing m/c=2-3 Capacity of Printing= 40,000-45,000 pcs per day Machine Type Screen shot Drying Expose shot Heat press Curing
Machine information Auto screen shot Manual screen shot Auto dryer Hand dryer Auto expose shot Manual expose shot Depends on pressure & temp. range Depends on temp. & belt speed
NO. of M/C 4 4 100 1 3 6 7
Printing System Sereen Printing
Hand screen printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing
Specification (Automatic Flat screen printing) M/C no -1 Brand name: Diamond back Red chili Country : USA No. of Head :6 Max. Color used :5 Drying head :1 M/C NO:2 Brand name : Diamond back Red chili Country : USA No. of Head :8 Max. Color used : 6 Drying head :2
M/C NO:3 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Brand name: Diamond back Red chili Country : USA No. of Head : 12 Max. Color used : 8 Drying head :2 M/C NO:4 Brand name: Diamond back Red chili Country : USA No. of Head :8 Max. Color used : 6 Drying head :2
Flow chart of Printing section Artwork from merchandiser ↓ Design input ↓ Design development ↓ Positive/film ↓ Print taken ↓ Requisition by merchandiser ↓ Panel(cutting fabric parts) ↓ Expose(frame adjusted) ↓ Fila and frame adjusted ↓ Water spray ↓ Panel send to buyer ↓ Buyer approval ↓ Sale sample ↓ Counter sample ↓ P P production ↓ Accessories booking ↓ Requisition by merchandiser for fabric ↓ Fabric received and store
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↓ Count the fabric ↓ Inspection the fabric ↓ Fabric adjusted ↓ Bulk production start ↓ Hydro extractor from dryer ↓ Inspection ↓ Finishing ↓ Delivery
Types of print Rubber print Pigment print(Water base print) Foil print Discharge print Puff print Glitter print Afsan print High density print Plastisol print Crack print Gel print Sticker/transfer print Reflective
Design Artwork receive from development ↓ Detail design perform & analyze by Adove photoshop & illustrate ↓ INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Prepare individual film for different color by work express software ↓ Send to expose room
Screen Preparation: Mesh fabric tight with frame Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air. Placed design paper under the mesh. Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min. Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.
Sequence of printing Count garment parts Screen preparation Printing paste preparation Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion Printing the garment part by using screen Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 1800 c Inspection is done in qualify control department
Process for Foil Printing Add adhesive on the require design by screen INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec
Expose Room Mesh fabric NO.
Print Type
10,12 14 16,20
Glitter Afsan, Discharge pigment Rubber,Puff, High density, Foil, Gel, Plastisol, Reflective, Crack
Print wise curing Print type
Temperature
Rubber Pigment Plastisol Discharge Puff Glitter Reflective High density Gel Afsan
150-160 140-150 180-200 180-200 170-180 150-160 160-170 180-200 170-180 150-160
Belt speed m/min 4-6 4-6 4-5 3.5-4 3.5-4 4-6 4-6 3.5-4 4-5 4-6
Duration(sec) 30-45 30-45 36-45 45-52 45-52 30-45 30-45 45-52 36-45 30-45
Common print defects Measuring fault Print missing Wrong color Hand feel not correct Color migration problem INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Not properly attach Dirty marks Uneven print Air bubble Air hole Shade variation
Major causes of print defects 1. Screen & print body are not in same axis 2. Irregular wash of screen frame 3. Wrong color recipe 4. Insufficient drying of previous color 5. Inaccurate composition of fixture 6. Improper heat & pressure 7. Dirty environment
Auto screen shot 1. Faster production 2. High color combination 3. Immediate drying between two consequetive print Not suitable forLarge & complete body print High density, flock & multiple color, discharge print.
Manual screen shot INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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1. Generally all types of print are performed 2. More time consuming 3. Drying performed by hand or auto dryer
HEAT PRESS M/C 1. GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print 2. Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique 3. Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure
Drying 1. Hand drying 2. Auto drying It is performed to dry previous color temporally Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color
Curing Curing is the ultimate drying of print Proper curing is the vital issue for a quality print Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.
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EMBROIDERY ORGANOGRAM OF EMBROIDERY CO (Embroidery) Embroidery manager Assistant manager (designer) Supervisor
( A.Q.C)
Sample
man Q.I
senior
operator Helper
Helper
Senior operator Assistant operator Frame men M/c men Helper Iron men
Embroidery Machine Specification Electronic multi-head automatic Embroidery M/C Brand: Tajima Country: Japan Model: TFGn-920 No. of head: 20 No. of Needle per head: 9
No. of Embroidery M/C: 7 M/Cs for Bulk production : 1 M/C for Sample
Machine RPM= maximum 950
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Bobbin winding M/C Brand: Tajima Country: Japan No of m/c: 2
Embroidery stitching type
Sartin Stitch Tatami Stitch Run Stitch Motif Stitch Cornoly Stich Loop Stich
Method
1. By Bed 2. By Ring
Bed:
Needle fixed but Bed movable
Interlining: Four types of interlining are used in Viyellatex3. Soft 4. Hard 5. Dot line 6. EB-50(PUMA)
Design Analysis
Art work from buyer ↓ Input to ES-65(Software) ↓ Design analysis INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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↓ Send to buyer ↓ Recommendation & correction from buyer ↓ Sample prepare ↓ Send to buyer ↓ If approved then for bulk production
Thread used in Embroidery • • • • • •
Brand Name Country Madera Germany Metal Germany Well Bangladesh Force Bangladesh Coats Bangladesh Basic Bangladesh
Thread Count – 135 x 2 Dtex Thread contain in bobbin - 2500m
Embroidery Faults
Stitch gap Bobbin out Oil spot Thread loose Embroidery position wrong Needle hole Over stich INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Production per day: • 20,000 piece per day
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Maintenance Maintenance is a procedure by which we can maintain active functioning in operation according to the behavior and utility of a particular element. Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked. culminates in rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a standstill. In Industry, therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time to repair and recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and physically possible to do so. In engineering, we use this terminology for maintaining smooth and uninterrupted performance of machines, tools and metallurgical characteristics in practical uses
Objective of maintenance: To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working condition. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer. To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thuds to have control over the production program. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
Three types of maintenance are performed in Viyellatex Group. 1. Preventive Maintenance. 2. Routine/ Schedule Maintenance. 3. Breakdown Maintenance.
Preventive
Maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful description.These actions are performed to prevent or reduce consequences of failures. Schedule maintenance: Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department. It is time-based maintenance and pre-planned to perform on machine and equipments Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important parts are done. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Breakdown maintenance: In this type of maintenance when the machine remains stop that time the maintenance is done.
SL. NO. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. SL.NO 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. ~ 8. 9. 10.
Items need to be checked & Serviced Check and tightening all motor terminals. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on top machine. Check and clean the interfacing and data cables. Check and tightening the proximity switch terminals. Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel. Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and emergency switch. Functional test of the yarn detector.
items need to be checked & Serviced Check and tightening all motor terminals and clean the motor (3odays). Check activity of wide and sensor and pneumatic regulator. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals Clean the A/C ventilation fans of panel board Check the fan and the heat sink o the inverters in the panel board. Check and tightening the edge sensors. Check and tightening the photo sensor terminals. Check and tightening the safety light barrier and tightening terminals. Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the panel. Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and emergency switch.
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Check List of Different Parts Maintenance : Mechanical Machine : Dyeing machine SL. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ii 12
Items need to be checked & Serviced Clean the m/c bearing. Complete cleaning of machine Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required. Check air supply filters, regulators auto drain seals Clean filters element and blow out. Greasing of unloading roller bearing. Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller gearbox., Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing. Checking & cleaning (if required) of main vessel level indicator. Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required. Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves Check all door seals.
Maintenance : Electrical Machine : Dyeing Machine SL No.
Items need to be checked & Serviced
1.
Check & clean fluff and dirt at dirt at all motor fan covers.
2. 3. 4.
Check all motor’s terminals Check main panels (by using compressed air) Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter
5. 6. 7.
Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan. Check all circuit breaker, magnetic conductors and relays. Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over load. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Visual checking of all power & control cables. Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank Check all pneumatic solenoids Check calibration of heating/cooling modulating value Check setting of tangle sensor. Check setting & operation of lid safely switches. Check all emergency switches Check all indicating lamps Check all on/off switches
17.
Check all signal isolators.
Maintenance Tools & Equipments: 1. Combination tools / spanner Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 2. Socket ratchet set Function: Tightening of nuts & bolts. 3. Slide range Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 4. Monkey pliers Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts. 5. Pipe threat cutting tools Function: To cut the threat in pipe. 6. Bearing puller Function: To assist the opening of bearing from shaft. 7. Pipe range Function: Tightening & loosening of pipe joint. 8. Pipe cutting tools Function: For pipe cutting. 9. Hole punch Function: Punching the hole. 10. Divider Function: For circle marking on metal & wood. 11. Easy opener Function: To open the broken head bolt. 12. External threat die Function: For external threat cutting. 13. Heavy scissor Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet. 14. Oil can Function: Oiling of moving parts. 15. Drill machine and drill bit. Function: For drilling. 16. Grease gun Function: For greasing of moving parts of rn/c. 17. Grinding m/c Function: For grinding & cutting of mild steel. 18. Welding m/c INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Function: For welding & cutting. 19. Spirit leveler Function: For perfect leveling. 20. File Function: For smoothing the surface. 21. Hammer Function: For scaling & right angling. 22. Circlip tools Function: Circlip opening & closing. 23. Hacksaw blade Function: For metal cutting.
Maintenance Procedure: Preventive
Maintenance:
They
always
follow
preventive
maintenance.
Breakdown Maintenance: When a problem occurred the operator informed the supervisor, then the supervisor informed the production officer, then the production officer called the maintenance officer. The maintenance officer visits the problem and takes necessary steps to solve the problem.
Flow chart of maintenance Problem occurred Operator Supervisor Production officer ↓ Maintenance officer
Solution
Remarks: Maintenance of m/c’s are very essential to prolong the m/c life and good maintenance is important consideration. It is necessary to check that all routine maintenance is being done regularly and properly otherwise efficiency of each department will be reduced.
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UTILITY SERVICES Introduction: VIYELLATEX GROUP LTD. is a big project and so of course having a vast project of utility service. Here the total account of utility facilities are available. The utilities are Water Gas Electricity Compressed Air Steam
Generator house The list of machine: 1. Generator 2. Panel 3. Distribution Board 4. Generator Control Panel
Number of Generator= Four Capacity= 4.25MW Manufacturer= Jenbacher (AUSTRIA) 1. Generator: To generate the power (volts & amps) for every section in the Factory.
2. Panel:
To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for every section in the factory.
There are two types of panel: PFI (Power Factor Improvement) panel LT panel INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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PFI panel: To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for the boiler house, finishing section & dyeing section in the factory. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts
LT panel:
To store the power (volts & amps) from the generator for the boiler house, finishing section & dyeing section in the factory. According there need. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts.
3. Distribution: To supply the power (volts & amps) for the light, AC, fan etc in the different section. Supply AC current. 4 Amps & 400 volts. 4. Generator control panel: To control the generator for generate power.
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BOILER Boiler: The equipment used for producing steam from water is called steam generator or boiler. The boiler used for producing steam in GKL is Cochran boiler which is a fire tube type boiler. This produced steam is supplied by the steam line in different section. Simple vertical boiler of fire tube type is mainly used in small plant requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.
Classification of boilers: 1) Fire – tube boiler( gas ) : Low pressure , low running cost , less chance of busting but greater risk of damage . 2) Water – tube boiler: High pressure, high running cost high chance of bursting & don’t damage the whole boiler. As this factory used fire tube boilers and its description is given below. In boiler house, steam is produced at high temperature and pressure. This produced steam is supplied by the steam line in different section.
Uses: Steam use for – Power generation ( steam engine / turbine ) . Processing in industries (dyeing & finishing mill, sugar mill, paper mill etc.). Heating purposes ( houses , offices , hospitals etc in cold countries ). Hot water supply.
Essentials of a good boiler Required pressure and quality at minimum fuel . Initial installation and maintenance cost low . Parts approachable for repairs . Quick starting capacity . Conform to the safely regulations of boiler act .
Working principle:
The gas is fed through the front side to the furnace where fire created by electric spark. The blower move the fire into the flue pipe by compress air and then the flue gases enter through the combustion chamber which is lined with fire bricks on the outer wall of boiler. The hot gases passing through the horizontal smoke tubes give their heat to the water and convert water into steam. This steam gets accumulated in the upper portion of shell from where it can be supplied to the users. Finally, the flue gases are discharged to the atmosphere through the smoke box and chimney.
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Feed water tank
Gas
Burner
Boiler
Blower
Steam
Factory house
Figure: Steam produces procedure mechanism
The list of machineries:
Three Boilers Boiler water softener plant De-alkalize Four Condensed pump One hot water tank One water feed tank.
Capacity= 17ton
Boiler Specification Boiler No Machine Name (Functional) Boiler Type Brand Name Model Name Max. Steam Output Test Pressure Volume Year of Manufacture Country Name
Boiler No
: : : : : : : :
:
01 Steam Generate Fire Tube Boiler : OMNICAL BOILER : 20424 6 t /h 20.5 bar 12540 L 2008 Germany.
02
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Machine Name (Functional) Brand Name Model Name Max. Working Pressure Minn. Steam Temp. Max. Steam Temp. Test Pressure Volume Year of Manufacture Manufacturer's Name Boiler No Machine Name (Functional) Boiler Type Brand Name Model Name Max. Steam Output Test Pressure Volume Year of Manufacture Country Name
:
Steam Generate : SCHNEIDER-KESSEL BERLIN : HDD-P5000-10 10 bar 20˚C 185˚C 13.5 bar 5200 L 2006 German Thai Boiler Manufacturing Ltd.
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
03 Steam Generate Fire Tube Boiler : OMNICAL BOILER : 20424 6 t /h 20.5 bar 12540 L 2008 Germany.
COMPRESSED AIR Compressed air is produced by air compressor. There are four air compressors for producing compressed air. Manufacturer= GERMANY(KAESAR)
STEAM Steam is produce by Boiler. From the Water Treatment Plant, water is stored in a reserve tank and from there water goes to boiler & steam is produced.
GAS The source of Gas is TITAS GAS LTD. The gas is supplied to gas generator or different section (Boiler- for heating water) from the main line of the TITAS GAS LTD.
Sources of Electricity: INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Electricity Steam Water Compressed air Gas
: PDB & Generator : Boiler : Pump : Compressor : TITAS GAS LTD.
Remarks: As the biggest project the VIYELLATEX GROUP., so the vast utility systems. There is a skill manpower group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these utility services. They have to remain aware of solution on a great sense of responsibility for any type of problem due to utility supply.
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WATER TREATMENT PLANT There are two deep tubeweel by the two side of the treatment plant. There are also two submersible pumps in the deep tubeweel one is 100 ft deep and another is 140 ft deep. The submersible pump transfer raw water in the water tank by creates force. The formation of oxidation of the water by showering with the help of another two pimps in the water tank. Iron content removes by the oxidation. Two circular transfer raw water in the (vessel no-1) Multigrade filter unit. The large size plastic, iron that means solid content are removed in the multigrade filter unit. The water is transferred to the (vessel No-2) Activated carbon filter unit. In the (vessel No-2) Activated carbon unit to remove chlorine that means bad smell. The water then transfer in to the (vessel No3) softener unit from the activated carbon unit at the presence of cationic resin (Zeolite) is reacted with water to remove the hardness of water. The water is transferred in to the reserve tank from the softener unit. The soft water is supplied from the reserve tank by the 7 Boosting pump in the different section of the factory.
The back wash & regeneration process
The back wash process to clean the vessel no-1,2 & 3. The back wash process should be done after 8-12hrs. After 40-48 hrs later the regeneration process should be done. It should be done after back wash process. After back wash the common salt dissolved with water in to the STT (salt saturated tank) the solution of common salt is ringing the resin by the injector. The use of 18% salt in the total solution. (Suppose, 5000 lit of solution the amount of salt 600kg). The resin is activated by the salt rising. Here used cationic resin (NaHSO3). If the PH of the water increase or decrease it should be control by the dosing chemical (Sodium Hypochlorite) from the chemical tank. A
B
C
D
E
Figure: Water treatment plant Where, A=Hard water storage tank B=Stone filter C=Carbon filter D=Resin filter E=Soft water storage tank F= Pump
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Standard water quality for dye house Minimum standard
Permissible concentration
Color Smell Water hardness PH Value Dissolved solid Inorganic salt Iron (Fe) Manganese (Mn) Copper (Cu) Nitrate (NO3) Nitrite (No2) Chlorine Filterable solids ammonia
Colorless No bad smell < 50 7-8 Neutral < 150 mg/1 < 500 mg/1 < 0.1 mg/1 < 0.01 mg/1 < 0.005 mg/1 < 50 mg/1 < 5 mg/1 <0.i mg/1 < 50 mg/1 < 0.5 mg/1
Hardness check The hardness should be checked after every 6 hrs. It should be checked by the hardness test kits. The using hardness test kits are Hanna Instrument. Made in Italy. If the hardness is going to be 0.5 on the syringe scale. Then have to do the regeneration process.
The capacity of WTP= 200m3/ hr
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EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT Flow chart of ETP: Effluent Water from Dyeing
Equalizer Tank
Reaction Tank
PH Control Tank
Flocculation Tank
Prmary clarifier
Sludge bed
Discharge Effluent
Multifilter
Chlorintion Tank
Secondary clarifier
Aeratio n Tank
Reserve tank For Re-using Water
Effluent treatment plant (ETP) Process:
i. Chemical ii.
Biological.
In Viyellatex Biological process is used Capacity: 100 m3 / hour.
The major sources of liquid discharge are: scouring. Bleaching. Dyeing. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Washing.
Dye wastes content: -
Carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus.
Bleaching: -
Dilute hypochlorite solution. H2O2
Raw materials: 1. main raw material: Cotton yarn. mixed yarn Dyes Chemical
2. dye include: Reactive. Disperse.
3. Chemical includes:
Detergent Soda ash Caustic soda. H2O2 Stabilizer. Acetic acid.
Step wise function of different unit of E.T.P
Equalizer Tank: Air circulation is water.
occurred in this tank to reduce the temperature of the
Reaction Tank: Use chemical: Soda Lime. Function: To remove the various color.
PH Control Tank:
Use chemical: FeSo4, Fitcary. Function: To control PH.(6.0-6.5).
Flocculation Tank
Use chemical: Polyelectrolyte & alum. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
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Function: To produce flock.
Primary Clarifier:
Function: To monitor performance of flocculation clarifier & separate solid waste.
Sludge Bed: Function: Solid waste dried & send to outside for burial
Aeration Tank: Use chemical: Urea, Phosphoric acid. Function: Bio logical oxygen demand & Chemical oxygen demand reduced here & diffused aeration system ensures high oxidation efficiency.
Secondary Clarifier: Function: Remaining solid waste separate here. Reduced total solid.
Chlorination Tank: Used chemical: Sodium hypochloride Function: Disinfection done here.
Multi filter: Function: Extra suspended impurities separation by passing into the sand. Here removed suspended solution and correction the water color.
The characteristics of waste water assumed at VIYELLATEX as follows:
pH = 11 BOD = 300 mg/L COD=200 mg/L Suspended solid (SS) = 200 mg/L Color = dark
Final treated Quality of VIYLLATEX discharge is
PH = 6-9 BOD = 35 mg/ L COD = 170 mg / L Suspended solid = 50 mg/L Color = color less.
BSTI’S standard:
Ph = 6-9 BOD = 50 mg/L COD= 200 mg/L Suspended solid = 150 mg/L
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Color = Light brownish.
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CONCLUSION : We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the two months Industrial attachment at VIYELLATEX GROUP, we have got the impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit composite complex in Bangladesh. Though it was established only a few year’s ago, it has earned “very good reputations” for its best performance over many other export oriented textile mills. During our training period, talking with the clients of this mill we knew that the mill is fulfilling the country’s best export oriented white finished fabric as well as very good colored fabric due to its modern machinery & good management system. Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-four hours. It had self-power generator system to satisfy total power consumptions of the mill. We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the training period we are received cooperation and association from the authority full & found all man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. .\ll stuffs & officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal. There are some suggestions from us within our limited knowledge Some Suggestions: The dyeing floor is watery most of the time: it should be cleaned all the time. To increase overall efficiency, more skilled labor should be used in a project. The m/c stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized. The maintenance should be carried out when the m/c is out of action (wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out regularly. There should be a yarn dyeing project. Sitting arrangement of production officers should be improved.
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Lastly: We tried our best to gather all necessary information but it is true that within this short period it is quite impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole this industrial training was a satisfactory one and once again wed would like to thank the authority of VIYELLATEX GROUP. as well as our honorable teachers far their altruistic help and advice. We are fortunate enough that we have got an opportunity to have training in this mill. During the training period we have received enough co-operation and association from the authority and found all personnel. All stuffs and officers were very sincere and devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT ON VIYELLATEX
Page 176