essional chef N IN TH EDITION
The Culinary Institute of America ure X L'U N A R Y \ CIN STITUTE
^AMERICAJ
T H E W O R L D 'S P R E M IE R C U LIN A R Y C O LLEG E
This book is printed on acid-free paper. @ Copyright © 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
THE C ULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA President Vice-President, Dean of Culinary Education
Dr. Tim Ryan 1 1 Mark Erickson '77
Senior Director, Educational Enterprises
Susan Cussen
Director of Publishing
Nathalie Fischer
Editorial Project Managers
Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00
Editorial Assistants
Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08
Published by John W iley <5 Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada No part o f this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or tra n sm itte d in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as pe rm itte d under Section 107 or 108 o f the 1976 United States Copyright Act, w ith o u t either the prior w ritte n permission o f the Publisher, or authorization through payment o f the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 64 6-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com . Requests to the Publisher fo r perm ission should be addressed to the Permissions Departm ent, John W iley 6 Sons, Inc., I l l River S treet, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 74 8-6011, fax (201) 7 4 8-6 008 , or online at http://w w w .w iley.com /go/perm issions. L im it o f L iab ility/D isclaim er o f W arranty: While the publisher and author have used th e ir best e ffo rts in preparing this book, they make no representations or w arranties w ith respect to the accuracy or completeness o f the contents o f this book and spe cifically disclaim any im plied w arranties o f m erchantability or fitne ss fo r a particular purpose. No w arranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or w ritte n sales m aterials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable fo r your situation. You should consult w ith a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable fo r any loss o f p ro fit or any other commercial damages, including but not lim ited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. For general inform ation on our other products and services or fo r technical support, please contact our Customer Care Departm ent w ithin the United States at (800) 76 2-2974, outside the United States at (317) 57 2 -3 9 9 3 or fax (317) 572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety o f electronic form ats. Some content th a t appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more inform ation about W iley products, v isit our web site at www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available upon request. ISBN: 978-0-470-42 135-2 (cloth)
Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Master Recipe List
v iii
Acknowledgments
xvi
Introduction
.
xv iii
PART ONE
essional IN TRODUCTION TO THE/PROFESSION M ENUS AND RECIPES
3
IB
THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY
23
31
PART TW O
tools and ingredients in the professional kitchen chap ter 5
E Q U IPM EN T IDENTIFICATIO N
Chapter 6
MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME ID ENTIFIC ATION
chapter 7
FISH AND SHE LLFISH ID EN TIFICATIO N
chapter 8
FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB ID EN TIFICATION
Chapter 9
D AIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND ID ENTIFIC ATIO N
chapter 10
DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION
43
199
69
99
181
127
PARTTHREE
stocks, sauces, and soups c h a p te r !!
MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
chapter 12
STOCKS
253
chapter 13
SAUCES
267
chap ter 14
SOUPS
239
301
PART FO U R
meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish chapter 15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SH ELLFISH chapter 16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH chapter 17 GRILLING, BROILING, AND ROASTING
375
423
Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING chapter 19 STEAM ING AND SU BM ER SIO N COOKING chaptei-2 0
BRAISING AND STEWING
361
487
531
571
P A R T F IV E
vegetables, potatoes, grains and legumes, and pasta and dumplings chapter 21
MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS
chapter 22
COOKING VEGETABLES
chapter 23
COOKING POTATOES
chapter 24
COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES
chapter 25
COOKING PASTA AND D U M P LIN G S
647
713 751 807
617
» •■*' ■- t : ,:k .
.
P A R T S IX
..
•;
COOKING EGGS
Chapter 27
SALAD DRESSINGS AND S A LA D S
chapter 28
SAN DW ICH ES
chapter 29
HORS D'OEUVRE AND A PPETIZER S
chapter 30
C HARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER
,
847
# 7 t
■ ^■
fV V - I P Si g p
breakfast and garde manger chapter 26
.4
A •
S 1
. * -
V -I
•
V
* 4
h
*
879
■
> /■ -
'
931
'■* r .
*
^ '
945
t ' ^
i”'* ’ f
985
- Txr,
•
JL
v
% ■
,
PART S EVEN
baking and pastry chapter 31 BAKING MISE EN PLACE chapter 32 YEAST BREADS
1015 %
1025
Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS
,
1047 r
Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES
1091
nr.:. d chapter 35
FILLIN G S, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES
1107 ;Q
chapter 36
PLATED DESSERTS
1161
Glossary
1167
J fl
Readings and R esources Recipe Index S u b je c tln d e x
1185
1191 1202
4
>>
1131 ,
A pp en d ix
%"
*
.
H
T_
s
v
-
S
fS
p -
• ,<• >.
master recipe list chapter 12 stocks Chicken Stock
Hollandaise Sauce
263
MALTAISE SAUCE
WHITE VEAL STOCK
263
WHITE BEEF STOCK
Beurre Blanc
263
Brown Veal Stock
263
BROWN GAME STOCK (JU S DE G IB IE R ) 2 6 4 ESTOUFFADE
298
MOUSSELINE SAUCE
298
299
Puree of Lentil Soup
Pesto
Puree of Split Pea Soup 3 4 5
299
264
PIMIENTO BUTTER
BROWN PORK STOCK
264
GREEN ONION BUTTER
BROWN DUCK STOCK
DILL BUTTER
264
SHELLFISH STOCK
264
Vegetable Stock 2 6 5 Court Bouillon
Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup 3 4 5
30 0 300
Senate Bean Soup
300
Vichyssoise
BASIL BUTTER
Shrimp Bisque
30 0
Beef Consomme
CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE.
Royale Custard
Ichi Ban Dashi
Chicken Broth 3 3 4
333
333
chapter 13 sauces 293 293
JUS DE CANARD LIE
LAM B BROTH
293
JUS D'AGNEAU LIE:
FISH BROTH
293
Onion Soup
Espagnole Sauce 2 9 4 Chicken Veloute FISH VELOUTE
294
SHRIMP VELOUTE
Bechamel Sauce
CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE MORNAYSAUCE CREAM SAUCE
CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE CELER I) 3 3 9
296 297
M IN T SAUCE (P A L O I5 E S A U C E ) CHORONSAUCE
v iii
339
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME A R G E N T E U IL ) 3 3 9
295
Bolognese M ea t Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) 2 9 6
Bearnaise Sauce
33 6
297
M A S T E R REC IPE LIST
Vegetable Soup, Emilia Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana) 3 5 7 Minestrone
357
Cream of Broccoli Soup 33 9
295
295
Tomato Sauce 2 9 5
Tomato Coulis
33 5
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP W ITH RICE 3 3 9
295
354
Tuscan W hite Bean and Escarole Soup 3 5 5
335
Cream of Tomato Soup 294
Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut M ilk and Galangal 3 5 3
W ontonSoup 335
Chicken Rice Soup (Canja)
294
VEG ETABLEVELOUTE
353
Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung) 3 5 4
33 5
ONION SOUP GRATINEE
Tortilla Soup
294
334
334
WHITE ONION SOUP
294
SUPREME SAUCE
Spicy Beef Soup ( Yukkaejang) 351 Miso Soup
334
SHELLFISH BROTH
Demi-Glace 2 9 3
334
334
TURKEY OR GAME BROTH
293
JUS DE GIBIER LIE
334
HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH
JUS DE VO LAILLE LIE
348
Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho) 34 9
Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang) 3 5 0
334
VEAL BROTH
Ju sd e V eau L ie
347
Ham Bone and Collard Greens Soup 3 5 0
AM ISH CORN AND CHICKEN SOUP 3 3 4 BEEF BROTH:
34 7
Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo
333
Poultry and M ea t Stock (Brodo) 2 6 6 266
34 6 346
Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard) 3 4 8
265
265
Potage Garbure
SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANO BUTTER 300
chapter 14 soups
ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK
344
PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEA SOUP 345
300
BROWN LAM B STOCK
Fish Fum et 2 6 4
34 2
M an h attan -S tyle Clam Chowder 3 4 4
Red Pepper Coulis 2 9 9
TARRAGON BUTTER
264
341
Pacific Seafood Chowder
MaTtre d’Hotel B u tter 3 0 0
264
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
Corn Chowder
298
297
chapter 15 mise en place for meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish Garam Masala
368
Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup 3 4 0
Chinese Five-Spice Powder 3 6 8
New England-Style Clam Chowder 3 4 0
Chili Powder
Conch Chowder
341
Barbecue Spice M ix 368
Curry Powder
369
Q uatre Epices
36 9
368
Fines Herbes
370
Green Curry Paste
37 0
Yellow Curry Paste
371
Barbecue M arinade Fish M arinade
372
Brazilian Mixed Grill
372
SALT HERBS
457
Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ffin g 4 8 2
Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce 4 5 8
373
Latin Citrus M arinade (Mojo) 3 7 3
BLACK BEAN SAUCE
Jerked Game Hens
Red W ine M arinade fo r Grilled M eats 3 7 4
MU SH R OOM FORCEMEAT
440
Veal Shoulder Poele
442
465
467
469
MARS ALA SAUCE
MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE (NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW COU NTRY SAUCE) 469
447
Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 4 4 8
Pork Butt with Coleslaw 448
CARAMELIZED APPLES
Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry V inegar Sauce 4 5 0 SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE
450
BARBECUE SAUCE
FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY
475
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille 454
PERSILLADE
WARM CABBAGE SALAD
SAUCE ROBERT
50 5
506
508
SAUCE CHARCUTIERE
508
Red Snapper with G rapefruit Salsa 5 0 9
Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere 47 6
453
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties
W INTER FR U IT SA UCE
Pork C utlet with Sauce Robert 5 0 8
475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu) 4 7 6
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney 4 5 3
Sauteed Medallions of Pork with W in ter Fruit Sauce 50 5
NOISETTES OF PORK WITH RED ONION CONFIT 50 6
CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST -STYLE SAUCE 472-3
St. Louis-Style Ribs
Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions 451
504
Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad 50 6
470
Smoked Brisket with Sw eet Pickles 4 7 2
448
PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATO SAUCE 5 0 3
N oisettes of Pork w ith Green Peppercorns and Pineapple 5 0 4
NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN BARBECUE SAUCE 4 6 9
BROILED LA M B KEBABS WITH PIMIENTO BUTTER 4 4 7
501
Veal Scaloppine Marsala 5 0 3
467
NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT SAUCE 4 6 9
Pork and Veal Skewers (R a znjic i) 4 4 7
501
Emince of Sw iss-Style Veal 5 0 3
GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE
Carolina Barbecue
446
Chicken Provengal
500
BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL
Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs 446
Sauteed Chicken with Fines HerbesSauce 5 0 0 FINES HERBES SAUCE
Cantonese Roast Pork ( C h a r S iu ) 4 6 6
Barbecued Steak w ith Herb Crust 4 4 5
APPLE CIDER SAUCE
464
464
Pork Roast with Jus Lie
Beef Teriyaki 4 4 5
DILL SAUCE
486
chapter 18 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying
463
Baked S tu ffed Pork Chops 4 6 5
Grilled Rib Eye Steak
C H ES TNU TSTU FF IN G
Salmon F illet with Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust 4 8 6
462
MADEIRA SAUCE 4 6 3
Standing Rib Roast au Jus
44 1
Skewered Beef and Scallions
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut S tu ffin g 4 8 5
B eef W ellington 4 6 3
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce 441 Seitan Satay
462
M AR SALA SAUCE
MARCHAND D E V IN SAUCE
461
M IN T AND YOGURT CHU TNEY
GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAK WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER 4 4 0 MUSH R OOM SAUCE
459
Broiled Bluefish a I'Anglaise with MaTtre d'Hotel B u tter 461 Fish Kebabs
484
Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade 4 8 4 -5
459
Broiled S tu ffed Lobster
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce 4 4 0
483
Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcem eat 4 8 3
459
P INEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA
chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and roasting
Pan-Smoked Chicken
458
F illet of Mahi Mahi with Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa
374
481
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy 48 2
HOT PEPPER S A U C E (M O LH O API MENTADO) 457
372
Teriyaki M arinade
Roast Leg of Lamb with M int Sauce 481
Grilled Paillards of Chicken with Tarragon B u tter 4 5 5
Red W ine Game M arinade 3 7 2 Lamb M arinade
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (G ig o t a la Breto nne ) 480
Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel 4 5 5
Seasoning M ix fo r Spit-R oasted M eats and Poultry 371 Asian-Style M arinade
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous (M e ch o u i) 478
Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano B u tter 4 5 4
369
Red Curry Paste
477
Trout Amandine
50 9
A ll
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce 511 YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE
Vatapa
512
Shrimp Ticin-Xic Bibimbap
513
513
514
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken
516
516
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets
518
518
PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK CUTLET 5 1 8
Veal Cordon Bleu
518
55 5
520
REM OU LA D ESA U C E
520
561
GREMOLATA
5 6 2 -3
Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken 5 2 4 SWEET GARLIC SAUCE
524
563
Fried Fish Cakes
528
Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits 5 6 4
Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno 5 2 8 -9 Tinga Poblano
530
566
Bass and Scallops en Papillote 5 5 3
606
Lamb Khorma
607
Irish Stew 569
chapter 20 braising and stewing
608
Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew 6 0 9 Chicken Tagine
611
PRESERVED LEMONS
Chicken Fricassee
Korean Braised Short Ribs (KalbiJjim) 5 8 2
61 2
Chicken and Prawn Ragout (M a r i Muntanya) 6 1 2 -3
584
ROULADEN STUFFING
chapter 22 cooking vegetables Boiled Carrots
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce 5 8 4 -5 585
Yankee Pot Roast 5 8 6
Mole Negro
611
61 2
581
DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581
587 5 8 8 -9
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers 5 5 3
Beef Stew
Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse 5 5 5
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in M ea t Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni) 5 9 0
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Lamb Navarin
VEAL FRICASSEE
Sauerbraten
602 60 4
Curried Goat w ith Green Papaya Salad 6 0 8
Seafood Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel 5 7 0
Braised Short Ribs
chapter 19 steam ing and subm ersion cooking
Braised Lamb Shanks
HERBED FORCEMEAT STUFFING 6 0 5
Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch) 5 7 0
Braised Oxtails
601
601
Portuguese S tu ffed Leg of Lamb 6 0 5
Grandmother's Bean Curd (M o Po Dofu) 5 2 7 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long) 527
599
Polish S tu ffed Cabbage
GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS
Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo)
TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 5 2 3
598
599
BEEF GOULASH
Corned Beef w ith W inter Vegetables 5 6 6
Shrimp Tempura 5 2 3
597
Osso Buco Milanese
562
Udon Noodle Pot
522
59 6
Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage 5 9 8 Pork Goulash
Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes 561
Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon 5 2 2 522
Veal Blanquette
MUSHROO M SAUSAGE
New England Shore Dinner
Poule a u Pot (Chicken with Vegetables) 5 6 5
Beer B a tter
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce
F illet of Snapper en Papillote 5 5 8 -9
Cioppino
596
Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas) 597
557
Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes 521
Flounder a I’Orly
Pork Vindaloo
Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce 5 6 4
519
Fisherman’s P la tte r
ROYALGLACAGE
59 5
New Mexican Green Chile Stew 59 5
Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 8
Pescado Veracruzana
Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese) 519 Milanese Sauce
SALMON MOUSSELINE
593
594
D u ckC o nfit
555
Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique 5 5 7
Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 5 1 5
WIENER SCHNITZEL
Cassoulet
Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 6
S tir-F ried Squid with Thai Basil 5 1 5
COUNTRY GRAVY
SOLE MOUSSELINE
593
HOM EMA DE SAUERKRAUT
TROUT AND SAFFRON MOUSSEL INE 5 5 5
51 1
Sauteed Trout a la M euniere
Choucroute
POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON MOUSSE 555
58 9
681
Boiled Edamame 681 Steam ed Broccoli
681
BROCCOLI AND TOASTED GARLIC 681
Glazed Beets Creamed Corn
683 683
Pan-Steam ed Carrots 6 8 4 PAN-STEAMED HARICOTS VERTS 6 8 4 PECAN CARROTS
684
Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash 6 8 4
Braised Sauerkraut French-Style Peas
Green Beans with Walnuts Glazed Carrots
712
Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa 7 7 3
712
Middle Eastern Chickpeas
685
Rom an-Style Lima Beans
685
chapter 23 cooking potatoes
Grilled Vegetables Proven<;al-Style 6 8 6
Whipped Potatoes
MARINATED GRILLED VEGETABLES 6 8 6
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Soy-Sesam e Glaze 6 8 6
Boiled Parsley Potatoes
689
CRANBERRY-ORANGE COMPOTE 6 8 9
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
692
W ILD RICE PILAF
M arinated Roasted Peppers
695
695
Potato Pancakes Potato Latkes
Sh rim p -S tuffed M irlitons
696
69 6 699
SU M M E R SQUASH SALSA
SHORT-GRAIN BROWN RICE PILAF 78 1
740
Annatto Rice
743
781
Arroz Blanco 781
Potatoes Anna 7 4 4
Arroz Mexicano 744
Coconut Rice
French-Fried Potatoes
782
Arroz Brasileiro 7 8 2
Rosti Potatoes 7 4 4
699
780
Brown Rice P ilaf with Pecans and Green Onions 7 8 0 -8 1
743
M acaire Potatoes
780
PEARL BARLEY PILAF
740
Hash Brown Potatoes
747
Risotto
782
783
Mushroom Quesadillas with Two Salsas 7 0 0
Sw eet Potato Chips 7 4 7
PARMESAN RISOTTO
Seasonal Vegetable Tarts
Berny Potatoes
W ILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO
Sauteed Arugula
701
747
Souffleed Potatoes
702
S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai) 7 0 2 Summer Squash Noodles
German Potato Salad
704
Belgian Endive a la M euniere
704
748
749
Curried Sw eet Potato Salad
Risotto alia Milanese 749
Tortilla de Papas
Jardiniere Vegetables
chapter 24 cooking grains and legumes
Vegetable Julienne
706
Macedoine of Vegetables Spinach Pancakes Pan-Fried Zucchini Corn F ritters
750
Black Bean Mash
768
707
Black Beans with Peppers and Chorizo 7 6 8
708
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes 771
707
Vegetable Tempura Fried Plantain Chips
708
Vegetarian Risotto
Frijoles R efritos
771
783 784
Risotto with Mussels Basic Boiled Rice
706
707
783
RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS 7 8 3
748
Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino) 7 0 5 705
783
GREEN PEA RISOTTO (R /S /E BIS/) 7 8 3
748
C roquette Potatoes L o rette Potatoes
784
785
Steam ed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han) 7 8 5 Sushi Rice
785
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage 7 8 7 Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo) 7 8 7 Paella Valenciana
788
Saffron Rice 7 8 8
Corona Beans (Fagioli all'Uccelletto) 7 7 2
Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya BBQS PICE RUB
79 1
Creamed Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados) 7 7 2
Rice C roquettes
79 2
Braised Fennel in B u tter 7 1 0 Braised Red Cabbage
Frijoles a la Charra
TOSTONES
Ratatouille
708
708
Braised Greens
Braised Romaine
710
711
711
78 0
780
WHEAT BERRY PILAF
740
Delmonico Potatoes
778
780
CONVERTED WHITE RICE PILAF
739
Chateau Potatoes
Curried Roasted Cauliflower 69 2
777
777
SHORT-GRAIN W HITE RICE PILAF (VALENCIA) 7 8 0
738
Mashed Sw eet Potatoes with Ginger 7 3 8
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Butternut Squash Puree 691
Poblanos Rellenos
Rice Pilaf
Potatoes au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise) 7 3 9
691
Eggplant Parmesan
Boiled W hite Beans Vegetarian Chili
Glazed Sw eet Potatoes
Baked Acorn Squash with Cranberry-Orange Compote
776
Red Beans and Boiled Rice
Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes 7 3 8
Asparagus with Lemony Hollandaise 6 8 8 -9
Roasted Carrots
737
775
775
776
Rice and Beans
Baked Potatoes with DeepFried Onions 7 3 7
Zucchini Pancakes with Tzatziki 6 8 8
Spaghetti Squash
F alafel
735
774
Southwest W hite Bean Stew Stewed Black Beans
735
Duchesse Potatoes
774
773
Basic Polenta
791
792
POLENTA WITH PARMESAN
792
Grits with Corn and Hominy 7 9 5
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Congee
795
Gnocchi di Semolina G ratinati
M illet and Cauliflower Puree 79 6
Gnocchi di Ricotta
Mixed Grain Pilaf
Gnocchi Piedmontese
79 6
Green Onion-Bulgur Pilaf
7 9 6 -7
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans 7 9 9
831
Barley Salad with Cucumber and M int 8 0 0 Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad Cracked W heat and Tomato Salad 8 0 3
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH BRATWURST 8 7 2
835
Hush Puppies 8 3 7
SCRAMBLED EGGS GRATINE
Dim Sum 8 3 7 POTSTICKERS
800
SCRAMBLED EGGS, HUNTERSTYLE 8 7 2
835
Biscuit Dumplings
803
837
Steam ed Dumplings (.S h a o - M a i) 8 3 8
Plain Rolled O m elet
804
Corn and Asiago Cheese Risotto Cakes 8 0 5
CHEESE OMELET 84 1
Potato and C heddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre N oisette, and Sage 8 4 2
chapter 25 cooking pasta and dumplings 819
WHOLE WHEAT PASTA BUCKWHEAT PASTA
CITRUS PASTA
819
819
819
O recchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan 821 821
866
JELLY OMELET
Tempeh Cashew Noodles
825
Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana 8 2 5 826
873
Farm er-S tyle O m elet
SAVORY CHEESE SOUFFLE
868
874
874 874
875
Warm Goat Cheese Custard 869
Quiche Lorraine
875
87 6
SPINACH QUICHE
POACHED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS 8 6 9
CARAM ELIZED ONION QUICHE 869
Poached Eggs with Corned Beef Hash 8 6 9
876
SMOKED SALMON AND DILL QUICHE 8 7 6
French Toast
871
878
871
POACHED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVER CHASSEUR 871 POACHED EGGS WITH SMOKED SALMON 871
Scrambled Eggs
876
BROCCOLI AND CHEDDAR QUICHE 8 7 6
POACHED EGGS, AM ERICANSTYLE 871
Asparagus and W hite Bean Lasagna 82 9
876
TOMATO AND LEEK QUICHE
POACHED EGGS MASSENA
Fried Eggs
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
873
Souffleed Cheddar O m elet
POACHED EGGS, FARMERSTYLE 8 6 9
Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (La sagna al Forno) 8 2 6
830
873 873
873
Spinach Souffle
868
EGGS FLORENTINE
822
Ravioli Bercy
866
868
Eggs Benedict
S tir-F ried Glass Noodles (.J a p C h a e ) 8 2 2
x ii
866
DEVILED EGGS WITH GREENS
Poached Eggs M om ay
PUMPKIN, CARROT, OR BEET PASTA 8 1 9
Couscous
DEVILED EGGS WITH TOMATO
Poached Eggs
873
WESTERN OMELET SPANISH OMELET
RED PICKLED EGGS
819
Pasta alia Carbonara
873
SHELLFISH OMELET
866
873
873
Artichoke Souffle
RED PEPPER PASTA
Pad Thai
866
819
Basic Boiled Pasta
873
SEAFOOD OMELET
SOFT-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
Pickled Eggs
819
BLACK PEPPER PASTA 8 1 9
TOMATO PASTA
OMELET OPERA
866
DEVILED EGGS WITH CHEESE
819
HERBED PASTA
CODDLED EGGS
Deviled Eggs
819
819
CURRIED PASTA
Hard-Cooked Eggs
873
873
OMELET MARCEL
MEDIUM-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
819
SAFFRON PASTA
MEAT AND CHEESE OMELET HERB OMELET
OMELET FLORENTINE
chapter 2 6 cooking eggs
SPINACH PASTA
873
CHEESE AND VEGETABLE OMELET 8 7 3
TOMATO OMELET
Wild Rice Cakes 80 6
Fresh Egg Pasta
872
PLAIN ROLLED EGG WHITE OMELET 8 7 3
GINGE R-S OY DIPPING SAUCE
Fontina Risotto F ritters 8 0 4
872
SCRAMBLED EGGS, GREEKSTYLE 8 7 2
Pan-Fried Dumplings (G uoT ie ) 841
Amaranth Pancakes
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CHEESE 8 7 2 SCRAMBLED EGGS, SWEDISHSTYLE 8 7 2
832
834
Bread Dumplings
W heat Berry Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans 7 9 9
Saigon Crepes
Spatzle
831
871
chapter 27 salad dressings and salads Red Wine V in a ig re tte
896
W HITE WINE VINAIGRETTE
896
MUSTARD-HERB VINAIGRETTE
EGGS OVER EASY, MEDIUM , OR HARD 871
872
SCRAMBLED EGG WHITES
LEMON-GARLIC VINAIGRETTE 872
896
ROASTED GARLIC AND MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE 8 9 6
LEMON-PARS LEY VINAIGRETTE
896 896
Taco Salad
Chipotle-Sherry V in a ig re tte 8 9 6 Almond-Fig V in aig rette
897
Apple Cider V inaig rette
897
Balsamic V inaig rette Curry V inaig rette
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts 9 1 7
898
Honey-Poppy Seed-C itrus Dressing 8 9 8 Fire-Roasted Tomato V inaig rette 8 9 9
Truffle V in a ig re tte
899
900
901
Green Goddess Dressing
901
Catalina French Dressing
902
Peanut Dressing
Cucumber Dressing
903 903
904
Ranch-Style Dressing
Basil Oil
Paprika Oil
907
907
Thai Table Salad
907
908
Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad 9 0 8 908
Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Island Dressing 90 9 Chef’s Salad
909
Greek Salad
910
92 0
Tempeh Reuben
921
940 942
942
Cucumber Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese 94 3
921
W atercress Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise 9 4 3 Apple Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise 9 4 3 Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich 9 4 4 Tomato Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream 94 4
923
924
chapter 2 9 hors d’oeuvre and appetizers
924 925
Ham Salad
Mixed Green Salad
Caesar Salad
Tuna Salad Egg Salad
907
Green Onion Oil
Three Cheese M elt
H ue-Style Chicken Salad 9 2 4 C RISPY SH ALLO TS
90 6
906
Orange Oil
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese 94 0
Cucumber and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo) 9 2 2
Chicken Salad
905
Thousand Island Dressing
M A R IN ATED EGGPLANT FILLIN G 939
Cucumber Yogurt Salad 9 2 3 905
937
Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 9 3 9
Cucumber Salad 92 2
Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing 9 0 4 Japanese Salad Dressing
903
93 6
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sw eet and Sour Onions 9 3 7 Croque Monsieur
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae) 9 2 2
904
Blue Cheese Dressing
918
Ji'cama Salad 921 Green Papaya Salad
GREEN MAYONNAISE
AToli
Corn and Ji'cama Salad
903
936
Reuben Sandwich
Moroccan C arrot Salad
903
934
Barbecued Beef
Coleslaw 9 2 0
902
ANCHOVY-CAPER M AYONNAISE TARTAR SAUCE
Chicken Burger
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad (Mizeria Klasyczna) 9 2 0
902
C aesar-Style Dressing
Mayonnaise
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and G rapefruit Salad 9 1 8
Onion and Cucumber Salad (Kachu mber) 9 1 9
W A L N U T O IL A N D RED WINE VINAIGRETTE 901
934
Philly Hoagie
Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto 9 1 9
V inaig rette Gourmande
930
CIA Club
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad
901
930
Seafood Ravigote
Sherried W atercress and Apple Salad 9 1 7
Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu) 9 1 9
Peanut Oil and M alt Vinegar Salad Dressing 9 0 0
Curried Rice Salad
Smoked Salmon Mousse
925
Shrimp Salad
Blue Cheese Mousse
925
European-Style Potato Salad Potato Salad
Pico de Gallo
953
92 6
92 6
95 3
Salsa Verde Asada 9 5 4 Salsa Verde Cruda
Eastern M editerranean Bread Salad (Fottoush) 9 2 6
Salsa Roja
Panzanella
G rap efruit Salsa
954
954
Papaya-Black Bean Salsa
927
Tomato and M ozzarella Salad
953
GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE
Pasta Salad with Pesto V in a ig re tte 9 2 5
953
928
955
95 5
Cumberland Sauce
955
Roasted Peppers (Peperoni A rro stiti) 9 2 8
Asian Dipping Sauce
Endive Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts (So/ode de Roquefort, Noix, e t Endives) 9 1 0
Green Lentil Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Puy) 9 2 8
Vietnam ese Dipping Sauce
Cobb Salad
Mixed Bean Salad
913
929
chapter 2 8 sandwiches
W aldorf Salad 9 1 8
HERB AND TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE 900
Pesto V inaig rette
Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad
914
W ilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon V in a ig re tte 9 1 4
897
Guava-Curry V in a ig re tte
913
TACO SAUCE
VARIATION
95 6
Cilantro-Lim e Soy Sauce 956
Spring Roll Dipping Sauce
928
92 9
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce
956 95 7
95 7
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Guacamole
958
Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce 98 2
chapter 32 yeast breads
Hummus bi Tahini 9 5 8 Baba Ghanoush
V itello Tonnato
Basic Lean Dough
Harissa
95 9
Tapenade Z'hug
958
959
96 0
983
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil 9 8 3
Baguettes
Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo) 9 8 4
Focaccia
Spicy Mustard 9 6 0 Wasabi
960
chapter 30 charcuterie and garde manger
Cranberry Relish 961 Seafood and Salmon Terrine
Spicy Mango Chutney 961 Curried Onion Relish Pickled Ginger
FLOUNDER MOUSSELINE
961
Pate G rand-M ere
962
Aspic
Pickled Red Onions 9 6 2 Tortilla Chips
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco
963
Smoked Salmon P la tte r
96 3
Clams Casino
Venison Terrine
S tu ffed Shrimp
96 9
970
Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup 971 Pescado Frito
1002
Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries 1 0 0 2 -3 1004
Gravlax
1006
1008
10 11
Vietnam ese Salad Rolls Beef Carpaccio
x iv
Simple Syrup
1023
Common Meringue Swiss M eringue
982
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
1072
HAM AND CHEDDAR SCONES
1073
1073 1073
Italian Meringue
1024
1024 1024
10 73
1074 1075
P u ff Pastry Dough
1076
1076
Blitz P u ff Pastry Dough Basic M u ffin Recipe
1077
1078
CRANBERRY-ORANGE M U FFIN S 1 0 7 8 BLUEBERRY MUFFINS
Bran M uffins Corn M uffins CORNBREAD
1073
1073
1074
DESSERT CREPES 1023
10 72
1072
Fried Bread (Puri)
Crepes Suzette
Chantilly C ream /W hipped Cream fo r Garnish 1 0 2 3
981
1070
1070
1072
Irish Soda Bread
Johnny Cakes 1023
LIQUEUR-FLAVORED SIMPLE SYRUP 1 0 2 3
981
Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 )
OATMEAL PANCAKES
COFFEE SIM PLE SYRUP
98 0
chapter 33 pastry doughs and batters
BLUEBERRY PANCAKES
Egg Wash
California Rolls
1045 1046
CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES
Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 9 7 7
Potato Om elet ( Tortilla Espanola) 9 7 9
1044
S o ft Dinner Rolls 1 0 4 5
BANANA PANCAKES
1 0 11
chapter 31 baking m ise en place
978
Challah (3-Braid)
BASIC WAFFLES
Octopus "Fairground Style" (Pulpo a Feira) 976
Black Bean Cakes
10 40
B utterm ilk Pancakes
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean) 9 7 6
Mushroom Strudel with Goat Cheese 9 7 8
BRIOCHE ATE TE
Raisin Bread with Cinnamon Swirl 1 0 4 3
RAISIN SCONES
1006
Pate Spice
1039
1040
Cream Scones
Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese 1 0 1 0
Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli) 9 7 5
1039
B utterm ilk Biscuits
Duck and Smoked Ham Terrine 1 0 0 4 -5 Pate Dough
1037
1037
1001
Seafood Pate en Croute
Mussels with W hite Wine and Shallots (M oules a la Mariniere) 9 7 5
SPINACH P IZZA
1 0 01
SAFFRON PATE DOUGH
97 2
MARGHERITA P IZZ A
Sticky Buns
1000
Chicken Liver Pate
970
1037
Sw eet Dough
Chicken Galantine
FOIE GRAS ROULADE
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes 9 6 9
999
99 9
Foie Gras Terrine
966
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic
99 6
996
Pork Tenderloin Roulade
96 6
Pita Bread
Semolina Pizza Crust 1 0 3 7
Brioche Loaf
MEAT BRINE
Coconut Macadam ia Shrimp
1036 1036
Cottage Dill Rolls
994
C ountry-Style Terrine (Pdte de Campagne) 9 9 8
Tuna Carpaccio ( Crudo di Tonno alia B attuta) 9 6 5
1034
Hard Rolls
Naan Bread
995
Shellfish Essence
96 2
993
993
Chicken and Crayfish Terrine
962
Seviche of Scallops
Spring Rolls
1034
Ciabatta
Roasted Red Pepper Marm alade 9 6 0
Samosas
Boules
1033
1033
1078 1079 1079
1078
I
B anana-N utB read Pumpkin Bread Pound Cake
chapter 35 fillings, frostings, and dessert sauces
1079
1 0 81
Italian Buttercream
Devil's Food Cake
1082
Apple Pie
1082
Vanilla Sponge Cake
Pecan Pie
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE
1083
1083
1084 1084
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS
1127
Sabayon
1085
1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough
CHERRY-CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES 1 0 8 8
Apple B u tter
1130
Nut Tuile Cookies
chapter 36 plated desserts Warm Date Spice Cake with Dates, Butterscotch Sauce, and Cinnamon Ice Cream 1 1 3 5
1090
1098 1098
Pastry Cream fo r S ouffles
10 98
1099
1099
1103
CHOCOLATE IC EC REAM COFFEE ICE CREAM
1103
1103
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM
1103
Diplomat Cream 1 1 0 3 Chocolate Mousse 1 1 0 4 Raspberry Mousse 1 1 0 4 Chocolate Souffle
1106
Bread and B u tter Pudding
1106
1135
1 1 51
GRAHAM CRACKER ICE CREAM 11 51 1152
1152
CLASSIC CARAMEL SAUCE W HITE SAUCE
1154
Pro fitero les
1157
MILK CHOCOLATE C INNAMON STICKS 1 1 3 6
COFFEE ICE CREAM
DATE SPICE CAKE
CORN FLAKE CRUNCH
1137 1137
1153 1153
CHOCOLATE BEIGNET BATTER 1 1 5 4
VANILLA ICE CREAM
1136
1157 1158
D U L C E D E L E C H E IC E CREAM
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
1159
VANILLA CARAMEL SAUCE
ORANGE-SCENTED CREME CHANTILLY 1 1 3 8
CHOCOLATE PATE A CHOUX CHOCOLATE STRAWS
1158
1159
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 1 1 3 7
CARAME LIZE D APPLES
1100
Vanilla Ice Cream
APPLE CHIPS
P H Y L LO T U B E S
CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM
Creme Caramel
1150
BEIGN ET TR UFF LE CENTERS
C INNAMO N IC E C RE A M
Creme Brulee
COCONUT FLANS
MA R S H MA LL OW
chapter 34 custards, cream s, and mousses
Pastry Cream
1150
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST FOR S ’MORES 1 1 5 2
1090
Fudge Brownies
1149
COCONUT CHIPS
CHOCOLATE GRAHAM DECOR
1130
Fruit Salsa 1 1 3 0
1089
1146
Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet 1 1 4 9
S’mores
1130
1089
Oatm eal-Raisin Cookies
Vanilla Sauce
1129
1129
Dried Cherry Sauce 1088
1146
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1 1 4 6
CILANTRO SORBET 1129
Apricot Glaze
CREME CHANTILLY
MANGO AND PASSION-POACHED PINEAPPLE 1 1 4 9
1129
Raspberry Coulis
1088
Chocolate Chunk Cookies
1128
1128
Classic Caramel Sauce 1086
1145
STRAWBERRY COULIS
1129
ZABAGLIONE
Almond-Anise Biscotti 1 0 8 6
Mudslide Cookies
1128
1128
Chocolate Sauce
1085
1145
KEY LIME TART 1 1 4 6
Frangipane Filling
POACHED PEARS
IC E C R E A M -F ILLE D PROFITEROLES 10 85
Pecan Diamonds
1126
1127
Pear Frangipane T artlets
Eclairs 1 0 8 5
1145
LEMON CURD
Key Lime Tart 1 1 4 6
CRANBERRY-PECAN PIE
Hard Ganache
1144
BASIL SAUCE
BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
1126
Pumpkin Pie 1084
GOUGERES(GRUYERE CHEESE PUFFS) 1 0 8 4
Profiteroles
1126
Lemon Meringue Pie
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
P a te a C h o u x
1125
1125
Cherry Pie
1083
Chocolate XS Cake Cheesecake
1143 1144
TUIL ES
1081
Angel Food Cake
BASIL ICE CREAM TARTLET SHELLS
1159 1160
1160
1138
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears with R icotta Cream and Sable Cookies 1 1 3 9 BLACKBERRY AND PORT-POACHED PEARS 1 1 3 9 SABLE COOKIES
1140
RICOTTA CREAM
1140
Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote 1 1 4 3
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
xv
acknowledgments THANK YOU to th e fo llo w in g fa c u lty and s t a f f a t The C ulinary In s titu te o f A m erica fo r a ssistin g in the revision f o r th e ninth e d itio n o f The P rofe s sio n al Chef: Tim Ryan, CMC, AAC; M ark Erickson, CMC; Brad Barnes, CMC, CCA, AAC; Lou Jones; Charlie Rascoll; Eve Felder; Thomas L. Vaccaro. The h e a rt o f th is book is th e d e ta ile d exp la n a tio n o f cooking m etho ds in w ords and images, as w e ll as an am azingly diverse c o lle c tio n o f recipes. For th e ir d e d ica tio n to ex cellence in several areas (reading and c ritiq u in g th e te x t, te s tin g and review ing recipes, and being th e hands you see in th e ph otographs), th e fo llo w in g in dividu als are also to be co n g ra tu la te d and thanked:
Mark Ainsworth '86, CHE, PC III, CEC
Martin Frei, CHE
Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE
Michael A. Garnero, CHE
David J. Barry '95, CHE
Lynne Gigliotti ’88, CHE
Frederick C. Brash '76, CHE
Peter Greweling, CMB, CHE
Elizabeth E. Briggs, CHE
Carol D. Hawran '93
Robert Briggs
Marc Haymon '81, CMB, CHE
David J. Bruno '88, PC lll/CEC, CHE
James W. Heywood '67, CHE
Kate Cavotti, CMB, CHE
George B. Higgins '78, CMB, CHE
Dominick Cerrone
James Michael Jennings '93
Shirley Shuliang Cheng, CWC, CHE
Stephen J. Johnson '94
Howard F. Clark 7 1 , CCE, CWC, CHE
David Kamen '88, PC lll/CEC, CCE, CHE
Richard J. Coppedge, Jr., CMB, CHE Gerard Coyac, CHE Phillip Crispo PC lll/CEC/CHE Paul Delle Rose ’94, CHE Joseph DePaola '94, CHE John DeShetler ’68, CHE, PCII/CCC Joseph W .D iP erri'77, CHE Alain Dubernard, CHE, CMB Stephen J. Eglinski, CHE, CMB Anita Olivarez Eisenhauer, CHE Mark Elia Joseba Encabo, CHE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Morey Kanner '84, CHE Cynthia Keller '83 Thomas K ie f ’78, CHE Joseph Klug '82, CHE Todd R. Knaster, CMB, CHE John Kowalski '77, CHE Pierre LeBlanc, CHE Xavier Le Roux, CHE Alain L. Levy, CCE, CHE Anthony J. Ligouri, CHE Dwayne F. LiPuma '86, CHE
James Maraldo, CHE
Thomas Schneller, CHE
Hubert J. Martini, CEC, CCE, CHE, AAC
Dieter G. Schorner, CMB, CHE
Bruce S. M a t t e l'80, CHE Francisco Migoya, CMB, CHE Darryl Mosher, CHE Robert Mullooly '93 Tony Nogales’ 88, PCII, CEC, CHE Michael Pardus '81, CHE Robert Perillo '86, CHE William Phillips '88, CHE
Johann Sebald, CHE Michael Skibitcky, PCIII, CEC, CHE David F. Smythe, CCE, CEC, CHE Brannon Soileau '91, CHE Rudolf Spiess, CHE John J. S te in '80, CFBE, CHE Scott Schwartz '89, CEC, CHE Jurgen Temme, CMB, CHE Alberto Vanoli, CHE
Katherine Polenz '73, CHE Howard Velie, CEC, CHE Heinrich Rapp, CHE Gerard Viverito, CEC, CHE Surgeio Remolina, CHE Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE John Reilly '88,CCC,CHE Stephane Weber, CHE Theodore R o e '91, CHE Paul R. Sartory '78
Jonathan A. Zearfoss, CEC, CCE, CCP, CHE
Giovanni Scappin
Gregory Z ifc h a k '80, CHE
Eric L. Schawaroch '84, CHE
For th e p ro fe ssio n a l ch e f th e re are m any s u b je cts to m aster. A special th a n k you to th o se who helped develop and review ch a p te rs d e d ica te d to m anagem ent, fo o d safe ty, and n u tritio n :
Marjorie Livingston, RD, CHE Richard Vergili, CHE
The im ages in th is book w ere cre a te d in th e In s titu te 's stu d io s and kitchens. M any tha nks to p h o to g ra p h e r Ben Fink w hose e x p e rtis e and a r tis tr y is the p e rfe c t com p le m en t to th e te x t, tech niq ue s, and recipes. Thanks to the book's designer, A lison Lew o f V e rtig o Design, who b ro u g h t it all t o g e th e r b e a u tifu lly and to th e p ro d u c tio n e d ito r a t W iley, Alda Trabucchi, fo r her tire le s s a tte n tio n to every d e ta il, large and sm all. And fin a lly , th a n k you to Pam Chirls, executive e d ito r, fo r her ove rall guidance and vision.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
introduction BECOMING A CHEF is a ca re e r-lo n g process. C ooking is a dynam ic p ro fe s s io n — one th a t pro vid es som e o f th e g re a te s t challenges as w e ll as som e o f th e g re a te s t rew ards. There is always a n o th e r level o f p e rfe c tio n to achieve and a n o th e r s k ill to m aster. It is our hope th a t th is book w ill fu n c tio n bo th as a sp rin g b o a rd in to fu tu re g ro w th and as a refere nce p o in t to give b a lla s t to th e lessons s till to be learned. By the na ture o f its en cyclo ped ic su b je ct coverage, th is te x t is su ite d to a v a rie ty o f curricula , w h e th e r as p a rt o f an e x is tin g program or th ro u g h in de pen de nt study. An in s tru c to r may choose to use all o r p a rt o f its c o n te n ts; th e s tu d e n t may use it to ad vance his o r her learning by em p lo ying it as a broad, basic te x t o r as a re fe re n ce to o l to answ er s p e c ific qu estio ns ab ou t a p a rtic u la r technique. The tech niq ue s as explained in th is book have all been te s te d in th e In s titu te ’s kitche ns. Each re p re se n ts one o f many po ssib le va ria tio n s. The fa c t th a t all v a ria tio n s are n o t included in th is te x t does not im p ly th a t o th e r m etho ds are in co rre ct. E xperience w ill teach th e s tu d e n t many "tric k s o f th e trade." The t it le o f th is w o rk should n o t p u t it in to th e ra rifie d ca te g o ry o f books to be used only by th o se w o rk in g in re s ta u ra n t or h o te l kitche ns. The basic lessons o f coo kin g are th e same w h e th e r one pre pa res fo o d f o r paying g u ests or fo r one's fa m ily and frie n d s . T h ere fore, we hope th a t th o se who lo ok to coo kin g f o r a cre a tive o u tle t w ill com e to reg ard th is book as a valuable to o l. This book is su ite d to a v a rie ty o f te a ch in g s itu a tio n s because th e m a te ria l is a r ranged in a logical, p ro gre ssive sequence. C h ap te r One covers th e h is to ry o f cooking as a p ro fe ssio n and exam ines th e skills and a ttrib u te s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l che f and o th e r m em bers o f th e f oo dse rvice p ro fe ssio n . (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab ou t ta b le service and dining room op era tions, co n su lt A t Your Service o r R e m arkab le Service.) Since f o o dse rvice is a business, som e o f th e e le m e n ta ry aspects o f fo o d c o s t ing are discussed in C hapter Two, as is how to a d a p t re c ip e s — fro m th is book or any o th e r— f o r use in a s p e c ific p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen. Know ing how to ad ap t recipes is useful f o r scheduling, c o n tro llin g costs, and im p ro vin g q u a lity. (For m ore d e ta ils ab ou t c u li nary m ath, co n su lt M a t h f o r the P rofe ssio n al Kitchen.) N u tritio n and fo o d science have becom e p a rt o f th e everyday language o f th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and C hapter Three review s som e basic con cep ts o f n u tritio n and science, p a rtic u la rly as th e y re la te to cooking. (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab o u t n u tritio n a l cooking, co n su lt Techniques o f H ealthy Cooking.) Food and kitch e n s a fe ty are o f in crea sing concern in all fo o d s e rv ic e op e ra tio n s, and C hapter Four p re se n ts fu n d a m e n ta l con cep ts and procedures fo r assuring th a t safe, w holesom e fo o d is pre pa red in a safe en viro nm en t. Counted am ong th e basics in th e kitch e n is th e a b ility to seek o u t and purchase the b e st po ssib le in g re d ie n ts. P art Two is a ca ta lo g o f th e to o ls and in g re d ie n ts used in the p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and includes in fo rm a tio n re g ard ing p ro d u c t sp e c ific a tio n s , p u r chasing, and such p ro cessing concerns as trim loss. There are sep ara te cha pters devoted to m eats, p o u ltry , and game; fis h and sh e llfish ; fru its , veg etab le s, and fre s h herbs; dairy p ro d u cts and eggs; and nonperishable goods such as oils, flo u rs , grains, and dried pastas. C ooking is n o t alw ays a p e rfe c tly precise a rt, b u t a good grasp o f the basics gives th e ch e f or s tu d e n t the a b ility not only to apply th e tech niq ue , b u t also to learn the s ta n dards o f q u a lity so th a t th e y begin to develop a sense o f how coo kin g w orks. P art Three is de voted to stocks, sauces, and soups. The p a rt opens w ith a ch a p te r covering such
x v iii
I N T R O D U C T IO N
basic m ise en place tech niq ue s as p re p a rin g and using seasoning and a ro m a tic com bina tio n s (b o uq uet garni and sach et d'epices), m ire p o ix, and th icke n e rs (roux and starches). P a rt Four p re se n ts th e tech niq ue s used to cook m eats, p o u ltry , fish, and she llfish . This p a rt covers th e basic fa b ric a tin g m etho ds f o r fa m ilia r cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , and fish and the n d e m o n stra te s how to g rill, ro a st, saute, pan fry , s tir- fr y , deep fry , steam , poach, stew , and braise. These im p o rta n t lessons are p re se n te d in cle ar s te p -b y -s te p p h o to graphs, w ith e x p la n a to ry te x t and a m odel recipe. In P art Five, cha pters c o n c e n tra te on p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s fo r vegetables, grains and legum es, pasta and dum plings, and p o ta to e s. P art Six covers b re a k fa s t and garde manger, w ith ch a p te rs cove rin g eggs, salad dressings and salads, sandwiches, and garde m anger ite m s such as pa tes and te rrin e s . (For fu r th e r in fo rm a tio n on these sub je cts, co n su lt Garde M anger: The A r t an d C r a ft o f th e Cold Kitchen, Third E d itio n .) Baking and p a s try is p re se n te d in P a rt Seven, w ith a tte n tio n paid to th e p re p a ra tio n o f breads and rolls; cakes and cookies; p a s try doughs and crusts; a v a rie ty o f fillin g s , icings, and glazes; and p la te d de sserts. The recipes included in th is book are exam ples o f th e w ide range o f p o s s ib ilitie s open to th e s tu d e n t once th e basics are m astere d. It should be no ted th a t these recipes have bo th A m erican and m e tric m easurem ents. The recipe yie ld s re fle c t re a l-life coo k ing s itu a tio n s : som e item s, such as sto c k s and soups, are p re pa red in large q u a n titie s, w h ile oth ers, such as sautes and g rills , are p re pa red a la m inute, a fe w p o rtio n s a t a tim e. La rge r roa sts, braises, stew s, and side dishes g e n e ra lly have yie ld s o f 10 servings; any m arinades, sauces, o r co n d im e n ts included in th e recipes th a t are prepa red in advance are n o rm a lly given in q u a n titie s to produce a yie ld o f 10 servings. These yie ld s may not alw ays s u it th e s tu d e n t w ho is using th e book o u ts id e o f a p ro fe s s io n a l kitchen. In m ost cases, th e y can be reduced o r increased in o rd e r to pre pa re th e c o rre c t num ber o f s e rv ings. Baking recipe yie ld s are based on s p e c ific w e ig h t ra tio s, however, and m ust be f o l lowed exactly. The new lo o k in th is new e d itio n re fle c ts th e w ay we th in k ab ou t tea chin g cooking. We learn b e st when we un de rsta nd n o t only how to do som ething, b u t why we should do it th a t way. From th is grounded approach, s tu d e n ts a t any level can c o n fid e n tly ta ke new d ire c tio n s in th e ir coo kin g careers.
I N T R O D U C T IO N
x ix
the culinary prof< PART 1
..—
..
:
«-'. ,
, '; /- :
, :
' '
S . - -:
. :
.
SS'vl : ^
; : ■■ ■
:f :' i^h -
■ ?■ /
m
■
It
,
*V ,
.
S . • ••
;
:: I f if
— MM
v
£ ?.,
g jg f,
t
,- r J
introduction to the profession Evolving into a professional culinarian is a lifelong journey/full of learned details and years of experience. It is challenging and deraffiding. Specific techniques and acquired knowledge are continually tested and improved upon. The specialized training required is intricate am precise. Deciding where to begin your study is just as important as tljfp ro c e s s of learning.
becoming a culinary professional A sound and th o ro u g h e d uca tion em phasizing th e c u li
An e sta b lish e d n e tw o rk also makes it much easier fo r
nary fu n d a m e n ta ls is th e f ir s t ste p to becom ing flu e n t
you to fin d a new p o s itio n or q u a lifie d em ployees.
in the trade . A s p irin g p ro fe ssio n a ls w ill fin d fo rm a l
Learning new skills to gain a c o m p e titiv e stance
tra in in g a t an a c c re d ite d school an e xce lle n t beginning.
and encourage c re a tiv ity should be an ongoing p a rt o f
O th er tra in in g a lte rn a tiv e s include ta k in g p a rt in special
you r career de velopm ent. B e n e ficia l and rew arding o p
a p p re n tice sh ip program s o r s e lf-d ire c te d courses o f
p o rtu n itie s re s u lt fro m a tte n d in g con tin u in g education
study. The process involves advancing fro m kitche n to
classes, w orkshops, and sem inars. Remain up to date
kitch e n by learning a t th e side o f chefs who are involved
w ith th e fo llo w in g in fo rm a tiv e resources:
in th e d a y-to -d a y business o f running a p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen. The goal is to ensure a th o ro u g h u n de rsta nd ing o f basic and advanced cu lin a ry techniques, reg ard less o f th e ty p e o f tra in in g received. C re atin g a n e tw o rk o f p ro fe ssio n a l colleagues and in d u s try c o n ta cts is im p o rta n t fo r fu tu re developm ent. The avenue o f g ro w th th a t includes w o rk in g w ith others, sharing in fo rm a tio n , and com m u nica ting re g u la rly w ill
» Magazines » New sletters » Instructional videos » Web sites » Government publications » Books
help to keep your own w o rk fre s h and co n tem po rary.
the attributes of a culinary professional Each m em ber o f a p ro fe ssio n is resp on sible fo r th e p ro
the degree to which they will succeed in providing
fessio n's image, w h e th e r he or she is a teacher, lawyer,
excellent service.
doctor, o r culinarian. Those who have made th e g re a te s t
» SENSE OF R E S P O N S IB ILITY — The responsibility
im pression know th a t th e card in al v irtu e s o f th e culinary
of a culinary professional includes respecting not
p ro fe ssio n are an open and in q u irin g m ind, an a p p re cia
just the customer and his or her needs but also the
tio n o f and d e d ica tio n to q u a lity w h ere ver it is found,
s ta ff, food, equipment, and facility.
and a sense o f re s p o n s ib ility . Success also depends on several ch a ra cte r tra its , som e o f w hich are inherent, some o f which are d ilig e n tly c u ltiv a te d th ro u g h o u t a career. These include: » C O M M ITM E N TT O SERVICE— The degree to which
» SOUND JUDG M ENT— The ability to judge what is right and appropriate in each work situation is acquired throughout a life tim e of experience; good judgm ent is a prerequisite fo r becoming and re maining a professional.
a foodservice professional can o ffe r a quality prod uct, as well as thorough customer satisfaction, is
the chef as a businessperson As you con tinu e you r career, you w ill move fro m p o s i
w ill be called on to learn and assum e ta sks and re sp o n si
tio n s where your te ch n ica l prow ess is your g re a te s t
b ilitie s th a t are m ore m anagerial, m arking a s h ift in the
c o n trib u tio n in to tho se where you r sk ills as an execu
e vo lu tio n o f your career.
tive , an a d m in is tra to r, and a m anager are m ore cle arly
Become a g o o d executive. E xecutives are th e in d i
in dem and. This does n o t mean th a t y ou r a b ility to g rill,
vid ua ls who develop a m ission o r a plan fo r a com pany
saute, or ro a s t fo o d s to th e exa ct p o in t o f doneness is
o r org an izatio n. They are also th e ones responsible
less im p o rta n t than it was b e fo re . It does mean th a t you
fo r de veloping a system to a llow th a t plan to come to
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
fru itio n . As an executive, you m ust sho ulder a large p o r
service or goods th a t you are o ffe rin g your custom er?
tio n o f re s p o n s ib ility f o r th e success or fa ilu re o f your
C o m p e titio n con tinu es to increase, and unless your
e sta b lish m e n t. E xecutives d o n't o p e ra te in a vacuum,
e s ta b lis h m e n t is d iffe re n t, b e tte r, fa s te r, or unique in
however. N or do th e y em erge fu ll blow n one day o u t o f
some way, th e re is every chance th a t it may n o t survive,
th e blue. Even b e fo re you w ear a ja c k e t e m b roid ere d
le t alone prosper.
w ith "E xe cutive Chef,” you w ill have begun to exercise your a b ilitie s as an executive. Become a g o o d ad m in istra to r. Once an overall goal or plan has been laid down, th e ne xt ta s k is to im p le m en t and tra c k th a t plan. Now y ou r hat becom es th a t o f an a d m in is tra to r. Som e a d m in is tra tiv e du tie s may not sound a t all g la m o ro u s— p re p a rin g schedules, tra c k in g deliveries, c o m p u tin g costs, and so fo rth . If a re s ta u ra n t is sm all, th e exe cutive and a d m in is tra to r w ill be the same person. T hat same person also m ig h t be the one who dons a u n ifo rm and w o rks th e line. The be st ad m in is tra to rs are th o se who can cre a te a fe e lin g th ro u g h o u t the e n tire s t a f f th a t each person has a stake in g e ttin g th in g s done c o rre c tly . When you give people th e o p p o r tu n ity to help make de cisions and pro vid e the m w ith the to o ls the y need to p e rfo rm o p tim a lly , you w ill see th a t it is easier to achieve th e goals you have e sta b lish e d on an exe cutive level. Learn to use the im p o rta n t to o ls o f your business; budgets, acco un ting system s, and in v e n to ry c o n tro l system s all play a role. M any org an izatio ns, fro m the la rg e st chains to th e sm a lle st one-person ca te rin g com pany, re ly upon s o ftw a re syste m s th a t allow the m to e ffic ie n tly a d m in is te r a num ber o f areas: in ven to ry, purchases, losses, sales, p ro fits , fo o d costs, cu sto m e r com p la ints, re se rva tio n s, pa yroll, schedules, and bud
M ANAGING PHYSICAL ASSETS Physical asse ts are th e e q u ip m e n t and supplies needed to do business. In th e case o f a re sta u ra n t, these m ig ht include fo o d and beverage in ven to ry, tab les, chairs, lin ens, china, fla tw a re , glassw are, co m p u te rs and p o in t o f sale system s, cash re g iste rs, kitch e n equipm ent, clean ing supplies, and w a re-w a shing machines. When we ta lk ab o u t m anaging physical assets, we are considering how a n yth in g th a t you m ust purchase o r pay f o r a ffe c ts your a b ility to do business w ell. The f ir s t ste p in bring ing the expenses a sso cia te d w ith you r physical assets under c o n tro l is to know w h a t your expenses a ctu a lly are. Then you can begin th e process o f m aking the ad ju stm e nts and in s titu tin g th e c o n tro l system s th a t w ill keep your o rg a n iza tio n o p e ra tin g a t m axim al e ffic ie n c y . One o f th e b ig g e s t expenses fo r any re s ta u ra n t w ill always be fo o d and beverage costs. You o r your purchasing agent w ill have to w o rk hard to develop and sustain a good purchasing system . The in fo rm a tio n fo u n d in P art Two o f th is book can help. Because each op e ra tio n has d iffe re n t needs, th e re are no h a rd -a n d -fa s t rules, ju s t princip le s th a t you w ill ap ply to you r own situ a tio n .
M ANAGING INFORMATION
gets. If you are n o t using a system capable o f tra c k in g all
You may o fte n fe e l th a t you can never keep cu rre n t in all
th is in fo rm a tio n and m ore, you cannot be as e ffe c tiv e as
th e im p o rta n t areas o f your w ork. Given the sheer v o l
you need to be.
ume o f in fo rm a tio n being ge n e ra te d each day, you are
Become a g o od manager. M anaging a re sta u ra n t, or
p ro b a b ly rig h t. The a b ility to ta p in to the in fo rm a tio n
any o th e r business, is a jo b th a t req uire s th e a b ility to
reso urce s you need, using all ty p e s o f m edia and te c h
handle fo u r areas e ffe c tiv e ly : physical assets, in fo rm a
nology, has never been m ore im p o rta n t. R estaurants,
tio n , people (human resources), and tim e . The g re a te r
menus, and tre n d s in dinin g room design have all been
your sk ills in m anaging any o f the se areas, th e g re a te r
d ra m a tic a lly im p a cte d by such s o c ie ta l tre n d s as busier,
your p o te n tia l f o r success. M any m anagem ent system s
o n -th e -g o life s ty le s and in crea sing in te re s t in w o rld
to d a y stre ss th e use o f q u a lity as a ya rd s tic k . Every as
cuisines. P re va ilin g ta s te s in p o litic s , a rt, fashion, m ov
p e ct o f your o p e ra tio n needs to be seen as a w ay to im
ies, and m usic do have an e ffe c t on w h a t people eat and
prove th e q u a lity o f service you p ro vid e your custom ers.
w here and how th e y w a n t to eat it. In fo rm a tio n g a th e r
As we look a t w h a t you m ig h t be e xp ected to do in o rd e r
ing can becom e a fu ll- tim e ta s k on its own. To make use
to manage e ffe c tiv e ly , th e fu n d a m e n ta l qu estio n you
o f th e in fo rm a tio n available, you m ust be able to analyze
need to ask, over and over, is th is: How w ould a change
and eva lu ate c a re fu lly to s if t o u t th e im p o rta n t m a te ria l
(or lack o f change) in a given area a ffe c t th e q u a lity o f
fro m useless data.
c h a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
M A N A G I N G H U M A N RES OURCES R e sta ura nt o p e ra tio n s re ly d ire c tly on th e w o rk and d e d ica tio n o f a num ber o f people, fro m executives and a d m in is tra to rs to line cooks, w a it s ta ff, and m a in te nance and cleaning s ta ff. No m a tte r how large o r sm all your s t a f f m ay be, th e a b ility to engage all your w o rke rs in a tea m e f f o r t is one o f th e m ajor fa c to rs in d e te rm in ing w h e th e r you w ill succeed o r not. Your goal should be to cre a te an en viro n m e n t in
You m ust keep a p ro p e rly co m p le te d 1-9 fo rm on file f o r every em ployee, and you should be fa m ilia r w ith the re g u la tio n s th a t could a ffe c t you or th o se you employ. The Im m ig ra tio n and N a tu ra liz a tio n Service (INS) w ilt pro vid e th e necessary in fo rm a tio n .
M AN AG ING TIME It may seem th a t no m a tte r how hard you w o rk or how much planning you do, th e days aren’t long enough.
w hich all s t a f f fe e l th e y have a d is tin c t and m easurable
Learning new sk ills so th a t you can make the be st pos
c o n trib u tio n to make w ith in th e org an izatio n. The f ir s t
sible use o f th e tim e you have c e rta in ly ou gh t to be an
ta s k is e sta b lish in g clear c rite ria , o th e rw is e known as
ongoing p a rt o f you r care er developm ent. If you look
a jo b d e scrip tio n . Training is an o th e r key com ponent. If
over your op e ra tio n , you w ill see w here tim e is w asted.
you w a n t som eone to do a jo b w ell, you f ir s t have to both
In m o st op e ra tio n s, th e to p fiv e tim e w a ste rs are
explain and d e m o n stra te th e q u a lity sta n d a rd s th a t you
lack o f clear p rio ritie s f o r tasks; poor s t a f f train in g;
e xp e ct to see. You need to c o n tin u a lly re in fo rc e tho se
p o or com m u nica tion ; p o o r org an izatio n; and m issing or
stan dard s w ith clear, o b je c tiv e eva lu a tio n o f an em
inad equ ate to o ls to accom plish tasks. To com b at these
ployee's w o rk th ro u g h fee d b a ck, c o n s tru c tiv e c ritic is m ,
tim e w a ste rs, use th e fo llo w in g s tra te g ie s.
and, when necessary, a d d itio n a l tra in in g o r d is c ip lin a ry m easures.
Invest tim e in reviewing daily opera tions. Consider th e w ay you, you r cow orkers, and you r s t a f f spend the
The m anagem ent o f human resources includes
day. Does everyone have a basic un de rsta n d in g o f which
several legal re s p o n s ib ilitie s . Everyone has th e rig h t to
ta sks are m o s t im p o rta n t? Do th e y know when to begin
w o rk in an e n viro n m e n t th a t is fre e fro m physical haz
a p a rtic u la r ta s k in o rd e r to b rin g it to co m p le tio n on
ards. This means th a t as an em ployer, you m ust provide
tim e ? It can be an eye-opening experience to ta ke a hard
a w orkspace th a t is w ell lit, p ro p e rly v e n tila te d , and fre e
lo ok a t w here th e w o rkda y goes. Once you see th a t you
fro m obvious dangers such as im p ro p e rly m aintained
and your s t a f f need to w a lk to o fa r to g a th e r basic ite m s
equipm ent. Em ployees m ust have access to p o ta b le
o r th a t th e person who washes th e dishes is s ittin g idle
w a te r and ba th ro o m fa c ilitie s . Beyond th is bare m in i
fo r th e f ir s t tw o hours o f th e s h ift, you can ta ke steps
mum, you may o ffe r a lo cke r room , a laundry fa c ility
to re c tify th e problem . You can t r y to reorganize s to r
th a t pro vid es clean u n ifo rm s and aprons, or o th e r such
age space. You may decide to tra in the dishw asher to do
am enities. W orkers' c om pensation, un em p loym e nt insurance,
som e prep w ork, or you can re w rite th e schedule so th a t th e s h ift begins tw o hours later. U n til you are o b je ctive
and d is a b ility insurance are also you r re s p o n s ib ility . You
ab ou t w h a t needs to be done and in w h a t order, you can't
are re q u ire d to make all legal d e d u ctio n s fro m an em
begin th e process o f saving tim e.
ployee's paycheck and to re p o rt all earnings p ro p e rly to
Invest tim e in t rain in g others. If you exp ect som eone
s ta te and fe d e ra l agencies. L ia b ility insurance (to cover
to do a jo b p ro p e rly, ta ke enough tim e to explain the
any harm to your fa c ility , em ployees, o r guests) m ust be
ta s k ca re fu lly. W alk y o u rs e lf and you r s t a f f throu gh the
ke p t up to da te and a t adequate levels.
jo b s th a t m ust be done, and be sure th a t everyone un
You may also choose to o ffe r a d d itio n a l fo rm s o f as
de rsta nd s how to do th e w ork, w here to fin d necessary
sistan ce as p a rt o f an em ployee b e n e fits package. L ife
item s, how fa r each p e rson’s re s p o n s ib ility extends, and
insurance, m edical and de n ta l insurance, assistance w ith
w h a t to do in case a q u e stio n o r em ergency com es up.
such th in g s as de pe nd ent care, a d u lt lite ra c y tra in in g ,
Give your s t a f f th e y a rd s tic k s th e y need to evaluate
and e n ro llm e n t in and s u p p o rt f o r tho se en ro lle d in sub
th e jo b and d e te rm in e if th e y have done w h a t was re
stance abuse program s are all ite m s o f w hich you should
quested, in th e a p p ro p ria te fashion, and on tim e . If you
be aware. In an in cre a sin g ly tig h t la bo r m arke t, a g e n e r
do n't in ve st th is tim e up fro n t, you may fin d y o u rs e lf
ous b e n e fits package can make th e d iffe re n c e in the
squandering precious tim e fo llo w in g your w o rkers
c alibe r o f em ployee you are able to a ttra c t and retain.
around, p ickin g up the slack and handling w o rk th a t sho uldn't be ta k in g up you r day.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
Learn to c om m u nic a te clearly. W h e th e r you are
adequate, e a sy-to -acce ss storag e space f o r common
tra in in g a new em ployee, in tro d u c in g a new menu item ,
ite m s such as w hips, spoons, ladles, and tongs. E le ctrical
or o rd e rin g a piece o f eq uipm en t, cle ar com m u nica tion
o u tle ts f o r sm all e q u ip m e n t ou gh t to be w ith in reach o f
is im p o rta n t. Be sp e cific, use th e m o st concise language
everyone. W hile you m ay be fo rc e d to w o rk w ith in the
you can, and be as b r ie f as po ssib le w ith o u t leaving o u t
lim its o f you r e x is tin g flo o r plan, be on the lo o ko u t fo r
necessary in fo rm a tio n . If ta s k s are handled by a num ber
p ro d u c ts o r sto ra g e s tra te g ie s th a t can tu rn a bad a r
o f people, be sure to w rite o u t each ta s k fro m th e f ir s t
ran ge m ent in to one th a t w o rks s m o o th ly and evenly.
step to th e last. Encourage people to ask qu e stio n s if
Purchase, replace, and m a in ta in all necessary tools.
the y d o n 't u n de rsta nd you. If you need help learning
A w e ll-e q u ip p e d kitch e n w ill have enough o f all the to o ls
com m u nica tion skills, con sid er ta k in g a w o rksho p or
necessary to p re p a re every ite m on th e menu. If you are
sem inar to stre n g th e n any w eak areas.
m issing s o m e th in g as basic as a sieve, your cream soups
Take s tep s to c re a te an o rd e rly w o rk environm ent. If
w on’t have th e rig h t con sisten cy. If you have a menu w ith
you have to dig th ro u g h fiv e shelves to fin d th e lid to the
several sauteed a p p e tize rs, entrees, and side dishes,
storage c o n ta in e r you ju s t p u t th e s to c k in, you haven't
are you and you r line cooks w a itin g around w h ile the p o t
been using your tim e w isely. Planning w o rk areas ca re
w asher scram bles to g e t you re sto cke d w ith saute pans?
fu lly , th in k in g ab ou t all th e to o ls , in g re d ie n ts, and e q u ip
If you can’t purchase new eq uipm ent, then th in k about
m ent you need f o r p re p a ra tio n and th ro u g h o u t service,
re s tru c tu rin g th e menu to even o u t the w o rkloa d. If you
and g ro up ing like a c tiv itie s to g e th e r are all tech niq ue s
can't rem ove a menu item , the n in ve st in th e to o ls you
th a t can help you organize you r w o rk b e tte r. Poor place
need to p re ve n t a slow dow n du rin g service.
m ent o f large and sm all to o ls is a g re a t tim e w aster. Use
planning your career path W hether you are seeking an extern po sitio n or planning your career upon graduation, understanding the various
» Are you seeking a management training program, or a direct hire position?
areas w ith in the h o s p ita lity in d u stry is im p o rta n t when
» W hat is im portant to you— the cuisine, management
laying the fo u n d a tio n fo r your career path. S e ttin g both
style, geographic location, number o f hours required
sh o rt- and lo ng -te rm goals w ill help you to realize the ca
per day/w eek, or working fo r a prominent chef?
reer th a t you are seeking. Knowing yo u rse lf and recogniz ing your stre n g th s and weaknesses fa c to r in to th is equa tio n as well. As a s ta rt, here are some general questions to ask y o u rse lf as you begin to th in k about your career:
» Are medical benefits, stock options, vacation time, predictable schedule, or seasonal employment op tions prerequisites fo r your choice? » Are additional skill sets or fu rth e r education re
» W hat type of environm ent (corporate/business, restaurant group/com pany, chain restaurant, inde
quired to reach your long-term goals?
pendent restaurant, fine/u p scale/casu al dining) do
Rank th e answ ers to the se qu e stio n s in o rd e r o f im p o r
you see yourself in?
tance to you and keep th e m in m ind as you se t goals fo r
» Do you p refe r small or large volume?
you r career.
» Do you p refe r fro n t of the house or back of the house?
career opportunities for culinary professionals C ulinary p ro fe s s io n a ls are needed n o t ju s t in h o te l d in
s o p h is tic a tio n , and fin a n c ia l and q u a lity c o n tro l means
ing fa c ilitie s and tra d itio n a l re s ta u ra n ts b u t in a v a rie ty
th a t all s e ttin g s , fro m th e w h ite -ta b le c lo th re s ta u ra n t
o f s e ttin g s — pu blic and p riva te , c o n su m e r-o rie n te d
to th e fa s t-fo o d o u tle t, o ffe r in te re s tin g challenges.
and in s titu tio n a l. An increased em phasis on n u tritio n ,
Chapter 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE PR O F E S S IO N
Some exam ples o f care er pa ths th a t are available
generally adhere to a M onday through Friday schedule.
to you are lis te d below, along w ith some general pros
Many corp ora tions operate executive dining rooms. The
and cons. As you con sid er a care er path, keep g ro w th in
degree o f s im p lic ity or elegance demanded in a p a rticular
m in d— you m ay n o t be q u a lifie d f o r an exe cutive p o si
co rp ora tion determ ines w h at typ e o f foo d is o ffe re d , how
tio n im m e d ia te ly a fte r g ra du ation , b u t th o u g h tfu l pla n
it is prepared, and w h at s tyle o f service is appropriate.
ning can advance you r care er quickly. R esorts, hotels, and spas o fte n have a num ber o f
Ca te rin g companies o ffe r a w ide range o f p o s s ib ili tie s, fro m upscale event planning com panies to sm aller,
d iffe re n t dinin g fa c ilitie s , includ in g fin e -d in in g re s ta u
m ore casual menus. They p ro vid e a p a rtic u la r service,
rants, room service, c o ffe e shops, and banq ue t room s.
o fte n ta ilo re d to m ee t th e w ishes o f a special c lie n t fo r
The kitch e n s are large, and th e re w ill o fte n be separate
a p a rtic u la r event, such as a wedding, a c o c k ta il re ce p
butchering, catering, and p a stry kitchens on the prem ises.
tio n , or a g a lle ry opening. C a te rers may pro vid e o n -site
These e sta b lish m e n ts o fte n o ffe r a v a rie ty o f f r o n t- and
services (the c lie n t com es to th e cate re r's prem ises),
b a c k -o f-th e -h o u s e op tion s, upw ard and geographic m o
o ff- s ite services (the c a te re r com es to th e c lie n t’s
b ility , and a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and many
prem ises), o r bo th. The v a rie ty o f o p tio n s depends on
have m anagem ent tra in in g program s.
th e size o f th e com pany and w h e th e r the y service on- or
Independent restaurants , such as b istro s, w h ite ta b le c lo th e sta blishm en ts, and fa m ily -s ty le re s ta u rants, fe a tu re a fu ll menu, and the pa tro ns are served
o ff-p re m is e s events. Home meal re p la c e m e n t (ca rryo u t) fo o d s e rv ic e is g ro w in g in im p o rta n ce as m ore busy couples, single
by tra in e d w a it s ta ff. When seeking e m p lo ym e nt in th is
pro fe ssio n a ls, and fa m ilie s t r y to enjoy meals at home
realm, select a re s ta u ra n t based on cuisine type , chef,
w ith o u t having to spend tim e p re p a rin g them . These
and size. They are less like ly to o ffe r b e n e fits or a set
o p e ra tio n s prepare entrees, salads, side dishes, and
schedule.
d e sse rts th a t are packaged to be take n home. M any su
Bakeries and cafes o ffe r a sm a lle r e n viro n m e n t th a t may specialize in s p e c ific areas (breads, w e dd ing cakes, etc.). They may be less lik e ly to o ffe r b e n e fits . R e s ta u ra n t g ro u p s/c o m p a n ie s o fte n have m u ltip le concepts w ith in the group, and o fte n o ffe r the p o s s ib ility
p e rm a rk e ts now o ffe r th is service to th e ir custom ers. In sales, com pany size ranges fro m larger, broadsp e ctru m d is trib u to rs to sm aller, specialized boutiques. M any salespeople w o rk on com m ission, so wages can flu c tu a te fro m pay pe rio d to pay period.
o f a m anagem ent tra in in g program a n d /o r geographic m o b ility . M o s t have p a rtia l to fu ll b e n e fits packages. P riv a te clubs g e ne rally pro vid e som e s o rt o f fo o d service. This may be as sim ple as a sm all g rill fe a tu rin g sandw iches, o r it may be a co m p le te din in g room . The d iffe re n c e is th a t th e gu ests are paying m em bers, and th e fo o d costs are ty p ic a lly fig u re d d iffe re n tly than the y w ould be f o r a pu blic re sta u ra n t. Country club p o s itio n s m ay be seasonal, depending
A D V A N CE D O P P O R T U N I T I E S The fo llo w in g o p tio n s m ay re q u ire e ith e r fu rth e r edu catio n, s ig n ific a n t in d u s try experience, o r o th e r sk ill sets. M o s t o f the se a lte rn a tiv e o p tio n s pro vid e a m ore "n o rm a l” o r "s e t” w o rk schedule w ith a com prehensive b e n e fits package. TEACHING— On a high school/vocational level, a
on lo catio n. C o un try clubs can range fro m very upscale
bachelor’s degree plus state certification is required.
fa c ilitie s to local g o lf clubs. M any have s e t hours and
At the college/university level, a minimum of a bach
provide b e n e fits. You m ust be ve ry w illin g to accom m o
elor’s degree in addition to significant industry ex
date the m e m b e rs'w a n ts.
perience (ACF certification is a plus) is required for
W ith con tra ct foodservice companies, many jobs
hands-on courses. A minimum of a m aster’s degree in
would be considered in s titu tio n a l cate ring (used in
addition to industry experience is required to teach
schools, hospitals, colleges, airlines, and corre ction al
liberal arts or business courses.
in stitu tio n s). This o fte n demands a single menu and a cafe te ria where th e guests serve them selves, choosing fro m the o ffe re d foods. Menu selections are based on the needs o f the in stitu tio n 's guests, the o p era ting budget, and the ad m inistration's expectations. These settin gs ty p ic a lly o ffe r many fro n t- and back-of-the-house op tio n s as w ell as a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
C O M M U N IC A T IO N S /M E D IA /M A R K E T IN G /W R IT IN G /FO O D S T Y LIN G — M ost of these options will require other education (a degree in marketing, communications, or journalism ) in addition to ex perience within the industry. Much of this work is freelance. An entrepreneurial mind is an asset.
RESEARCH AND D E V E L O P M E N T -C o v e rs a wide
The ROAST CHEF (rotisseur) is responsible fo r all
range of em ploym ent opportunities th at may re
roasted foods and related jus or other sauces.
quire other degrees, such as food science, chemis try, nutrition, or engineering, combined with indus try experience.
The GRILL CHEF (grillardin) is responsible fo r all grilled foods. This position may be combined with th a t of rotisseur.
A REAL C H A L L E N G E ENTREPRENEUR— This is probably the most d if ficu lt and most rewarding path, as you take all the
The FRY CHEF (friturier) is responsible fo r all fried foods. This position may be combined with the rotisseur position.
credit in good tim es and su ffer all the losses in hard
The VEGETABLE CHEF (entre metier) is responsible
tim es. A strong business mind and extensive plan
fo r hot appetizers and frequ en tly has responsibil
ning are required to be successful. Many businesses
ity fo r soups, vegetables, and pastas and other
do not turn a p ro fit fo r several years, so be ready to
starches. (In a full tradition al brigade system, soups
think long-term.
are prepared by the soup station or potager, and vegetables by the legumier.) This station may also
THE K I TCHEN B RI G A D E S Y S T E M
be responsible fo r egg dishes.
The brigade system was instituted by Escoffier to
The RO UNDSM AN (tournant) or swing cook works
streamline and simplify work in hotel kitchens. It served
as needed throughout the kitchen.
to eliminate the chaos and duplication of e ffo rt that could result when workers did not have clear-cut re sponsibilities. Under this system, each position has a station and defined responsibilities, outlined below. In smaller operations, the classic system is generally ab breviated and responsibilities are organized so as to make the best use of workspace and talents. A short
The COLD-FOODS CHEF (garde manger), also known as the PANTRY CHEF, is responsible for preparation of cold foods including salads, cold appetizers, pates, and the like. This is considered a separate category of kitchen work. The BUTCHER (boucher) is responsible fo r butch
age of skilled personnel has also made modifications in
ering meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. The
the brigade system necessary. The introduction of new
boucher may also be responsible fo r breading meat
equipment has helped to alleviate some of the problems
and fish items.
associated with smaller kitchen staffs. The chef is responsible fo r all kitchen operations, including ordering, supervision of all stations, and de velopment of menu items. He or she also may be known as the c h e f d e cuisine or executive chef. The sous c h e f is second in command, answers to the chef, may be re sponsible fo r scheduling, fills in for the chef, and assists the station chefs (or line cooks) as necessary. Small operations may not have a sous chef. The range of posi tions in a classic brigade also include the following: The SAUTE CHEF (saucier) is responsible fo r all sauteed item s and th eir sauces. This position is
The PASTRY CHEF (patissier) is responsible for baked items, pastries, and desserts. The pastry chef freq u en tly supervises a separate kitchen area or a separate shop in larger operations. This posi tion may be fu rth e r broken down into the following areas of specialization: CONFISEUR (prepares candies and petits fours), BOULANGER (prepares unsweetened doughs, as fo r breads and rolls), GLACIER (prepares frozen and cold desserts), and
o ften considered the most demanding, responsible,
DECORATEUR (prepares showpieces and special
and glamorous on the line.
cakes).
The FISH CHEF (poissonier) is responsible fo r fish
The EXPEDITER or ANNOUNCER (aboyeur) accepts
item s and th eir sauces, o ften including fish butch
orders from the dining room and relays them to
ering. This position is sometim es combined with the
the various station chefs. This individual is the last
saucier position.
person to see the plate before it leaves the kitchen. In some operations, this may be eith er the chef or sous chef.
ch a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
The CO M M UN ARD prepares the meal served to s ta ff at some point during the sh ift (also called the fam ily meal).
OTHER O P P O R T U N I T I E S In a d d itio n to th e kitch e n and dinin g room po sitio n s, a g ro w in g num ber o f less tra d itio n a l o p p o rtu n itie s exist,
The CO M M IS or apprentice works under a station
many o f which do n o t involve th e actu al p ro d u c tio n or
chef to learn how the station operates and its
service o f foo ds.
responsibilities.
THE D I NI NG ROOM B R I G A D E S Y S T E M The dining room , or fro n t-o f-th e -h o u s e , p o s itio n s also have an e sta b lish e d line o f a u th o rity .
FOOD AND BEVERAGE MANAGERS oversee all food and beverage outlets in hotels and other large estab lishments. CONSULTANTS and DESIGN SPECIALISTS will work with restaurant owners, often before the restaurant
The MATTRE D'HOTEL, known in Am erican service
is even open, to assist in developing a menu, designing
as the dining room manager, is the person who holds
the overall layout and ambience of the dining room, and
the most responsibility fo r the fro n t-o f-th e-h o u se
establishing work patterns for the kitchen.
operation. The maTtre d’hotel trains all service personnel, oversees wine selection, works with the chef to determ ine the menu, and organizes seating throughout service. The W INE STEWARD (chefde vin or sommelier) is responsible for all aspects of restaurant wine service, including purchasing wines, preparing a wine list, assisting guests in wine selection, and serving wine properly. The wine steward may also be responsible
W ELL-INFO RM ED SALESPEOPLE help chefs de term ine how best to m eet th eir needs fo r food and produce, introduce them to new products, and dem onstrate the proper use of new equipment. TEACHERS are essential to the g rea t number of cooking schools nationwide. M ost of these teachers are chefs who are sharing the b en efit of th eir experi ence with students.
for the service of liquors, beers, and other beverages.
FOOD WRITERS and CRITICS discuss food trends,
If there is no wine steward, these responsibilities are
restaurants, and chefs. It will always mean more, of
generally assumed by the maTtre d’hotel.
course, if the w riter is well versed in the culinary arts.
The HEAD WAITER (chefde salle) is generally in charge of the service fo r an entire dining room. Very often this position is combined with the position of either captain or maTtre d’hotel. The CAPTAIN (chef d'etage) deals most directly with the guests once they are seated. The captain explains the menu, answers any questions, and takes the order. The captain generally does any tableside
Some prominent members of the food media, such as James Beard, Craig Claiborne, and Julia Child, have been influential teachers and have w ritten landmark cookbooks in addition to contributing to newspapers and magazines and appearing on television. FOOD STYLISTS and PHOTOGRAPHERS work with a variety of publications, including magazines, books, catalogs, and promotional and advertising pieces.
food preparation. If th ere is no captain, these re
RESEARCH-AND-DEVELOPMENT KITCHENS employ
sponsibilities fall to the fro n t waiter.
a great many culinary professionals. These may be
The FRONT W AITER (chefde rang) ensures th at the table is properly set fo r each course, th at the food is properly delivered to the table, and th at the needs of the guests are promptly and courteously met. The BACK W AITER or BUSBOY (dem i-c hefde rang or commis de rang) is generally the firs t position assigned to new dining room workers. This person clears plates between courses, fills w ater glasses and bread baskets, and assists the fro n t w aiter a n d / or captain as needed.
run by food manufacturers who are developing new products or food lines, or by advisory boards hoping to promote their products. Test kitchens are also run by a variety of both trade and consumer publications. Challenges aside, th e fo o d s e rv ic e in d u s try is re w a rd ing and spontaneous. It req uire s stam ina, drive, and c re a tiv e in flue nce. Those who have m ade the g re a te s t im p ressio n know th a t v irtu e s such as open com m unica tio n , e ffic ie n t org an izatio n, p ro p e r m anagem ent, innova tiv e m arke ting , and th o ro u g h a cco un ting are necessary to prosper. In due tim e , your know ledge and experience w ill gain w o rth y re co g n itio n .
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the changing industry T Y P E S OF A G RI CU L T UR E
SU STAIN ABILITY
Today chefs are more aware of the systems in place for
One current focus is on sustainability. In the world of
growing and producing the food we eat. It is im portant
food, "sustainability" refers to healthy ways of raising,
to be educated not only to answer questions th a t may
growing, and harvesting food and ensuring th at the land
arise from customers and diners, but also to be able to
can support both the grower and the crop into the future.
make educated choices fo r ourselves.
It is not simply healthy fo r consumers, but for plants, ani
Agriculture is a system involving cultivating the soil,
mals, and the environment as well. Sustainable farming
producing crops, and raising livestock. There are d iffe r
does not harm the environment through the use of harm
ent ways in which a farm er can approach this system; a
ful pesticides or genetically modified organisms (GMOs),
few options follow:
or through overfarming. Sustainable farms also take care of their workers and are humane toward animals;
conventional agriculture
sustainable agriculture respects the farmers by paying
An industrialized agricultural system characterized by
them a fair wage. Sustainability is meant to support and
» mechanization » monocultures (less biodiversity)
improve the community, especially the rural communities where farms are based. Consumers, chefs, and restaurateurs are all becom
» synthetic inputs such as chemical fe rtilize rs and pesticides » maximizing productivity and p ro fita b ility
organic agriculture Agriculture involving
ing increasingly aware of the positive effe cts of sustain ability and how to live a sustainable lifestyle. A restau rant can support sustainability in a number of ways: 1. BUY LOCALLY. This allows the chef to know the qual ity and conditions under which the food they are using is raised, grown, or harvested. Buying locally increases
» renewable resources and biological cycles, such as composting
awareness of seasonality, and supports the local economy— items that have traveled far have often
» no genetically m odified organisms
lost quality and freshness.This concept also appeals
» no synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fe rtilize rs
to customers who are becoming more aware of the
» no synthetic feeds, growth hormones, or antibiotics » heightened compassion fo r animal w elfare
importance of sustainability and use of local products. 2. USE HEIRLOOM PRODUCTS. Heirloom products are d ifferen t from most available commercially. An "heir
biodynamic agriculture
loom plant” is defined as any garden plant that has
Beyond organic, biodynamic agriculture considers the:
been passed down within a food family. Some heir
» dynamic, metaphysical, and spiritual aspects of the farm
loom seeds are from plants
50 to 100 years old (mak
ing them entirely free of GMOs), and have a unique genetic composition compared with their commercial
» balance between physical and nonphysical realms
counterparts. They may provide new textures, colors,
» cosmic events, such as planting according to the
and flavors th at chefs can incorporate into any menu.
phases of the moon
The food industry is intrinsically woven into the fab
Heirloom products are » open-pollinated, yielding like offspring
ric o f culture. The industry and every profession within
» a distinct variety of plant
it reflect cultural and societal changes, some superficial
» generally not comm ercially grown
while others are foundational. These reflections can be seen in almost every aspect of the industry, such as how
» a product of tradition al methods
food is prepared, w hat kinds and types of food are eaten
» usually grown on a small scale
more readily, and menu and recipe development.
» o ften tied to a particular region
» o ften has been in use fo r 40 to 50 years or more
ch a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
3. BUILD A SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANT. Chefs and
meals. By ta k in g a look a t som e o f th e w o rld ’s m ajor re
restaurateurs can use the concepts of sustainability
ligions, it is easy to see th e ir in flue nce on cuisine. E dicts
in other ways in the restaurant— going far beyond
fa v o rin g or p ro h ib itin g ce rta in foo ds, as w e ll as a calen
simply the food used on the menu. Using solar or wind
dar o f fe a s tin g , fa s tin g , and ce le b ra tin g ritu a ls, are o f
power, for example, decreases energy costs and the
te n w idesp rea d enough in an area to co lo r the way th a t a
use of fossil fuels. The chef can implement a recycling
cuisine evolves and w h a t is w id e ly held to be au then tic.
program that includes not only glass, plastic, or paper
For exam ple, w ith its p ro s c rip tio n against e a tin g m eat
but also waste oil that could be converted into biofuel.
f o r ce rta in castes, H induism has c o n trib u te d to a cuisine
Check for local and national resources to learn about
w ith a s tro n g tra d itio n o f m ea tless dishes.
the many ways to make a restaurant more sustain able.
There has p ro b a b ly never been a tim e when th e m i g ra tio n o f fo o d s fro m one p a rt o f the w o rld to an othe r has n o t been a fa c to r in a developing cuisine. W hile
G L O B A L I Z A T I O N OF F LA VOR S A n o th e r ever-changing asp ect o f th e fo o d in d u s try since the beginning o f tim e is th e glo b a l sharing and blending o f cuisines. Cuisine, like any cu ltu ra l ele m e n t o f s o cie ty, has geographic, religiou s, and m any o th e r in flue nces th a t shape its de velopm ent. C onversely, a cu isin e — once de velope d— e xe rts in flue nce on th e c u ltu re o f its land o f origin as w ell as on any o u tsid e cu ltu re s w ith which it may come in c o n ta ct. E lem ents o f th e cuisine may shape events o r ce le b ra tio n s th a t becom e cu ltu ra l norm s, or may be a ssim ila te d in to an o th e r cu ltu re , becom e in tr in sic to it, and the n w o rk to shape or drive a g ric u ltu ra l de mands and pra ctices. In th is co n te xt, any meal is m ore than m ere s u s te nance. For to d a y ’s ch e f o r s tu d e n t o f th e culina ry arts, th is in fo rm a tio n can be o f value; id e n tify in g basic fo o d s and p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s th a t tra n s la te across cui sines, cultu res, and c o n tin e n ts is an im p o rta n t p a rt o f the culina ry p ro fe ssio n . Any cuisine is a re fle c tio n o f m ore than ju s t a c o lle c tio n o f in g re d ie n ts, coo kin g u te n sils, and dishes fro m a geographic lo catio n. These e le m ents are u n d o u b te d ly c ritic a l to e sta b lish in g a culinary id e n tity . B ut th e y are not, all on th e ir own, a cuisine. Shared tra d itio n s and b e lie fs also give a cuisine a p a rtic u la r id e n tity . A cu ltu ra l cuisine is an im p o rta n t e le m ent in de veloping and m a in ta in in g a g ro u p ’s id e n tity . And perhaps m o st re le va n t fro m today's pe rspe ctive, a system o f governance and tra d e th a t encourages the "m igration" o f fo o d s and dishes fro m one place to another s tro n g ly in flue nces cuisine. The presence or absence o f a sho reline has a tre m e n d o u s im p a ct on a developing coo kin g s tyle . C lim ate and soil co m p o sitio n , as w e ll as fa rm in g techniques, also have a s tro n g influence. A cuisine also gives us a way to express and e s ta b lish custo m s fo r m eals (w h at is eaten, when, and w ith whom), fro m sim p le m eals to ce le b ra tio n s and ritu a l
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the se exchanges are m ore rapid and fre q u e n t in m odern tim e s, th e y have always been ap pa rent. S om etim es the se exchanges had a g re a t deal to do w ith th e con q u e st o f lands by an invading fo rce . O th er tim e s, tra d e and its asso cia te d a c tiv itie s played a m ajor role. W h e th e r benign o r aggressive, a system o f culina ry exchange is p a rt o f any cuisine's s to ry . New in g re d ie n ts fin d th e ir w ay in to tra d itio n a l dishes. O ver tim e , the new in g re d ie n t becom es so fir m ly entrenched, we may even fo rg e t th a t th e dish w ould n o t be recognized as a u th e n tic. A cle ar exam ple o f th is can be seen w ith the a d o p tio n o f m any in g re d ie n ts th a t w ere na tive to the A m ericas, such as th e to m a to . Today, who could im agine Ita lia n cuisine w ith o u t th e to m a to ? It is so em bedded in th e c o u n try ’s cuisine th a t anyone could easily m istake Ita ly as its land o f origin. Techniques are also a w indow in to the cooking o f a spe cific cuisine. As you m ight expect, a technique can have a d iffe re n t name as you tra ve l fro m one region to another. C ertain cooking s tyles are popular in a given region o f the w orld because they are suited to the life s ty le and living conditions; oth ers may remain v irtu a lly unknown. The stu d y o f any single cuisine is a m u ltifa c e te d un de rta king . C uisines have never developed in a vacuum. As you probe m ore deeply in to th e h is to ric a l origins o f th e recipe in your hand tod ay, you may fin d in g re d i ents th a t tra v e le d fro m E ast to W est or fro m th e Old W orld to th e New W orld in place o f an e a rlie r op tion . T ra d itio n a l m etho ds o f cooking a dish may have changed w ith th e tim e s o r to m ee t th e special challenges o f coo kin g f o r large groups o r in a re s ta u ra n t s e ttin g . Know ing th e classic tech niq ue s and cuisine o f a cul tu re (w h e th e r France, India, o r beyond) is always h e lp fu l when you choose to m od ern ize o r change a tra d itio n a l recipe. Read cookbooks, v is it re s ta u ra n ts and o th e r cou ntrie s, and keep an open m ind in o rd e r to experience a w ide v a rie ty o f w o rld cuisines.
menus and recipes Menus are used in the dining room to give both wait s ta ff arid guests important information about what the establishment offers. Recipes give detailed instructions to aid kitchen s ta ff in producing tpenu items. More than that, carefully designed menus and comprehensive recipes can help Jmi
the professional chef streamline kitchen operatiorwand control costs.
CHAPTER
2
menus A menu is a p o w e rfu l to o l: It is a m a rk e tin g and m erchan
com p on ents o r to p la te and garnish it. The p re p a ra tio n
dising vehicle. It e sta b lish e s and re in fo rc e s th e to ta l
o f c e rta in garnishes, side dishes, sauces, o r m arinades
re s ta u ra n t con cep t fro m th e s ty le o f china and fla tw a re
may be organized so th a t all com p on ents o f a recipe are
to s t a f f tra in in g needs. It can a ssist th e ch e f in o rg a
p re pa red by th e ch e f o r cook fo r th a t sta tio n , o r it may
nizing th e day's w o rk, o rd e rin g fo o d , red ucing w aste,
be th a t prep cooks pre pa re som e o f the com ponents.
and increasing p ro fits . The w ay a menu is developed or adapted, as w ell as th e w ay menu prices are esta blished ,
A la c a rte and ba nq ue t menus call fo r c e rta in typ e s o f advance w o rk to help th e ch e f ad ju st to th e w o rkflo w .
are re fle c tio n s o f how w e ll th e o p era tion's con cep t or
Even if a w ritte n menu is n o t p ro vid ed to th e guest,
business plan has been de fine d. S om e tim es th e menu
some fo rm o f menu lis t in th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n is
evolves as th e business plan is re fin e d . In o th e r scenar
e sse n tia l to th e kitchen's sm oo th op e ra tio n . C onsult
ios, the con cep t comes f ir s t and th e menu com es later.
th e menu, d e te rm in e w hich ite m s you and each s ta ff
In s till oth ers, th e menu may be th e g u id in g p rin cip le
m em ber are resp on sible fo r, and the n read the recipes
th a t gives a p a rtic u la r stam p to th e way th e re s ta u ra n t
fo r th o se ite m s c a re fu lly so th a t you understand all the
con cep t evolves.
ta sks th a t m ust be p e rfo rm e d in advance o f service, as
Menus give th e kitch e n s t a f f v ita l in fo rm a tio n such as whose re s p o n s ib ility it is to prepare th e dish's
w e ll as a t th e tim e o f p la tin g and serving the fo o d . In th is way, service should proceed w ith o u t d iffic u lty .
recipes A recipe is a w r itte n reco rd o f th e in g re d ie n ts and
ME A S UR I NG INGREDI ENTS ACCURATELY
p re p a ra tio n ste p s needed to make a p a rtic u la r dish. The fo rm a recipe ta ke s depends on who w ill u ltim a te ly use th e recipe and th e m edium in w hich th e recipe w ill be presented. B efo re s ta rtin g to cook fro m any recipe, the f ir s t ste p is always to read throu gh th e recipe in its e n tire ty to gain an un de rsta nd ing o f e xa ctly w h a t is required. This ste p w ill a le rt you to any p o te n tia l surp rises the recipe m ig h t contain, such as re q u irin g an unusual piece o f eq uipm en t or an ove rnight coo lin g period. This is also the p o in t at which you m ust decide if any m o d ific a tio n s to the recipe are in order. Perhaps th e recipe makes only te n p o rtio n s and you w a n t to make f if t y , o r vice versa. You w ill have to co n ve rt th e recipe (see Using a Recipe C onversion F actor (RCF) to C onvert Recipe Y ields, page 16). W hile increasing o r d ecreasing the yield, you may discover th a t you need to make e q uipm en t m o d ific a tio n s as w ell to accom m odate th e new volum e o f foo d. Or you m ig h t decide th a t you w a n t to o m it, add, or s u b s titu te an in gre die nt. A ll o f these decisions should be m ade b e fore any in g re d ie n t p re p a ra tio n o r cooking begins. Once you have read th ro u g h and evaluated or m o d i fie d th e recipe, it is tim e to g e t your m ise en place t o gether. In many recipes, th e in g re d ie n t lis t w ill in d ica te how the in g re d ie n t should be p re pa red (e.g., p a rb o ilin g or c u ttin g in to pieces o f a ce rta in size) b e fo re th e actual cooking o r assem bling begins.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
A ccura te m easurem ents are crucial to recipes. In o rd e r to keep co sts in line and ensure con sisten cy o f qu al ity and q u a n tity , in g re d ie n ts and p o rtio n sizes m ust be m easured c o rre c tly each tim e a recipe is made. In g re d ie n ts are purchased and used a c c o rd in g to one o f th re e m easuring conventions: count, volum e, or w e igh t. They m ay be purchased acco rding to one system and m easured f o r use in a recipe a c c o rd in g to another. C ount is a m ea sure m ent o f w hole ite m s as one w ould purchase them . The te rm s each, bunch, and dozen all in d ica te u n its o f cou nt measure. If the in dividu al ite m has been processed, graded, o r packaged according to e sta b lish e d stan dard s, co u n t can be a useful, accurate w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts. It is less accurate fo r in g re d ie n ts re q u irin g som e advance p re p a ra tio n or w ith o u t any e sta b lish e d stan dard s f o r purchasing. G arlic cloves illu s tra te th e p o in t w ell. If a recipe calls fo r tw o ga rlic cloves, th e in te n s ity o f g a rlic in th e dish w ill change depending upon w h e th e r th e cloves you use are large or sm all. Volume is a m easurem ent o f the space occupied by a solid, liquid, o r gas. The te rm s teaspoon (tsp), tablespoon (tbsp), flu id ounce (fl oz), cup, p in t (pt), q u a rt (qt), gallon (gal), m illilite r (mL), and lite r (L) all indicate units o f volume measure. Graduated containers (measuring cups) and
utensils for which the volume is known (such as a 2-ounce
readily accessible to all s ta ff members. Instruct kitchen
ladle or a teaspoon) are used to measure volume.
s ta ff to follow standardized recipes to the letter unless
Volume measurements are best suited to liquids,
instructed otherwise, and encourage service s ta ff to
though they are also used for solids, especially spices,
re fer to standardized recipes when a question arises
in small amounts. Tools used fo r measuring volume are
about ingredients or preparation methods.
not always as precise as necessary, especially if you
As you prepare a standardized recipe, be as precise
must often increase or decrease a recipe. Volume mea
and consistent as you can. Include as many of the follow
suring tools don't conform to any regulated standards.
ing elements as possible:
Therefore, the amount of an ingredient measured with
» Name/title of the food item or dish
one set of spoons, cups, or pitchers could be quite d if feren t from the amount measured with another set. W eight is a measurement of the mass or heaviness of a solid, liquid, or gas. The term s ounce (oz), pound (lb), g ra m (g), and k ilo g ra m (kg) all indicate units of weight measure. Scales are used to measure weight, and they must m eet specific standards fo r accuracy. In profes
» Yield inform ation, expressed as one or more of the following: to ta l weight, to ta l volume, to ta l number of portions » Portion inform ation fo r each serving, expressed as one or more of the following: a specific number of item s (count), volume, weight
sional kitchens, weight is usually the preferred type of measurement because it is easier to attain accuracy with weight than it is with volume.
ST A ND A RD I Z E D RECIPES The recipes used in each professional kitchen are known as s ta n d a rd iz e d recipes. Unlike published recipes, standardized recipes are tailored to suit the needs of an
» Ingredient names, expressed in appropriate detail, specifying variety or brand as necessary » Ingredient measures, expressed as one or more of the following: count, volume, weight » Ingredient preparation instructions, sometimes included in the ingredient name, sometim es ex pressed in the method its e lf as a step
individual kitchen. Preparing w ell-w ritten and accurate standardized recipes is a big part of the professional chef's work in all foodservice settings, as they include much more than just ingredient names and preparation steps. Standardized recipes establish to tal yields, por tion sizes, holding and serving practices, and plating information, and they set standards fo r cooking te m
» Equipment inform ation fo r preparation, cooking, storing, holding, and serving » Preparation steps detailing mise en place, cooking methods, and tem peratures fo r safe food handling (see Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points [HACCP], page 36)
peratures and times. These standards help to ensure consistent quality and quantity, perm it chefs to monitor
» Service inform ation, describing how to finish and
the efficiency of their work, and reduce costs by elim i
plate a dish, add side dishes, sauces, and garnishes,
nating waste.
if any, and listing the proper service tem peratures
They also allow the w ait s ta ff to become fam iliar with a dish so they can answer guests' questions accu rately and honestly. For example, the type of oil used in
» Holding and reheating inform ation, describing pro cedures, equipment, tim es, and tem peratures for safe storage
a dish may m a tter very much to a guest if it is an oil to which he or she has an allergy. Standardized recipes can be recorded by hand, or
» Critical control points (CCPs) at appropriate stages in the recipe to indicate tem peratures and tim es
electronically using a recipe management program or
fo r safe food-handling procedures during storage,
other computerized database. They should be recorded
preparation, holding, and reheating
in a consistent, clear, easy-to-follow form and should be
c h a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
recipe calculations O fte n you w ill need to m o d ify a recipe. S om e tim es a re c
sim p ly m u ltip ly 5 chicken b re a sts by 10; no fu rth e r
ipe m ust be increased or decreased. You may be a d a p t
a d ju stm e n ts are necessary. O th e r in g re d ie n ts, such as
ing a recipe fro m a n o th e r source in to a stan dard ized
thicke ne rs, a ro m atics, seasonings, and leavenings, may
fo rm a t, o r you may be a d ju s tin g a sta n d a rd ize d recipe
no t m u ltip ly as sim ply, however. If a soup to serve fo u r
f o r a special event such as a banquet or a re ce p tio n . You
req uire s 2 ta b le sp o o n s o f flo u r to make a roux, it is not
may need to co n ve rt fro m volum e m easures to w eight,
ne cessa rily tru e th a t you w ill need 20 tab lesp oo ns (1V4
o r fro m m e tric m easurem ents to th e U.S. system . You
cups) o f flo u r to th icke n th e same soup when you p re
w ill also need to be able to tra n s la te be tw ee n purchase
pare it f o r fo rty . The only w ay to be sure is to te s t the
u n its and recipe m easurem ents. In som e circum stances,
new recipe and ad ju st it u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the
you may be called upon to increase or decrease th e sug
re s u lt— and th e n be sure to reco rd th e measure!
g e sted p o rtio n size f o r a recipe. Or you may w a n t to de te rm in e how much th e fo o d in a p a rtic u la r recipe costs.
O th e r co n sid e ra tio n s when c o n ve rtin g recipe yie lds include th e e q u ip m e n t you have to w o rk w ith , the p ro d u ctio n issues you face, and the s k ill level o f your s ta ff.
USING A RECIPE CONVERSION FACTOR (RCF) TO CONVERTRECIPE YIELDS To ad ju st th e yie ld o f a recipe to make e ith e r m ore o r less, you need to d e te rm in e th e recipe conversion fa c to r. Once you know th a t fa c to r, you f ir s t m u ltip ly all the in g re d ie n t am ounts by it. Then you co n v e rt the new m easurem ents in to a p p ro p ria te recipe u n its fo r you r kitche n. This may req uire c o n v e rtin g ite m s lis te d o rig in a lly as a cou nt in to a w e ig h t o r a volum e, o r ro u n d ing m easurem ents in to reasonable q u a n titie s . In some cases you w ill have to make a ju d g m e n t call a b o u t tho se
R e w rite th e ste p s to s u it your e s ta b lis h m e n t at th is po in t. It is im p o rta n t to do th is now, so you can uncover any fu rth e r changes to th e in g re d ie n ts o r m ethods th a t th e new y ie ld m ig h t fo rce . For instance, a soup to serve fo u r w ould be made in a sm all po t, b u t a soup f o r fo r ty req uire s a la rg e r coo kin g vessel. However, using a la rge r vessel m ig h t re s u lt in a higher ra te o f e va po ration , so you may fin d th a t you need to cover the soup as it cooks o r increase th e liquid to o ffs e t th e evaporation.
CONVERTING PORTION SIZES
in g re d ie n ts th a t do n o t scale up o r down e xa ctly, such as
S om e tim es it w ill happen th a t you also need to m o d ify
spices, salt, and thicke ne rs.
the p o rtio n size o f a recipe. For instance, say you have a
Desired yield Origtnal yield
_ . . = Recipe Conversion Factor (RCF)
soup recipe th a t makes fo u r 8-ounce p o rtio n s, b u t you need to make enough to have fo r t y 6-ounce p o rtio n s. To make th e conversion:
NOTE: The de sire d yie ld and th e o rig in a l yie ld m ust be expressed in th e same w ay b e fo re you can use the fo rm u la . If your o rig in a l recipe says it makes fiv e p o r tio n s, f o r exam ple, b u t does n o t lis t th e am o un t o f each p o rtio n , you may need to te s t th e recipe to de te rm in e w h a t size p o rtio n it a c tu a lly makes if you w ish to change p o rtio n size as w ell. S im ila rly, if th e o rig in a l recipe lis ts
Determ ine the to tal original yield and the to tal de sired yield of the recipe. Number of portions x Portion size = Total yield EXAMPLE: 4 x 8 fl oz = 32 fl oz (to ta l original yield)
the yie ld in flu id ounces and you w a n t to make 3 quarts, you need to co n v e rt q u a rts in to flu id ounces b e fo re you
40 x 6 fl oz = 2 4 0 fl oz (to ta l desired yield)
can d e te rm in e the recipe conversion fa c to r. The new in g re d ie n t am ounts usually need som e ad d itio n a l fin e -tu n in g . You may need to round th e re s u lt or co n ve rt it to th e m o s t lo gica l u n it o f m easure. For some in gre die nts, a s tra ig h tfo rw a rd increase o r decrease is all th a t is needed. For exam ple, to increase a recipe fo r chicken b re a sts fro m fiv e servings to f if t y , you w ould
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
2 . Determ ine the recipe conversion factor and modify the recipe as described above. EXAMPLE:
^
° Z = 7.5 (Recipe Conversion Factor)
Confusion often arises between weight and volume measures when ounces are the unit of measure. It is im portant to remember th at weight is measured in ounces, but volume is measured in flu id ounces. A standard volume measuring cup is equal to 8 fluid ounces, but the contents of the cup may not always weigh 8 ounces. One cup (8 fluid ounces) of cornflakes weighs only 1 ounce, but one cup (8 fluid ounces) of peanut butter weighs 9 ounces. W ater is the only substance fo r which it can be safely assumed th at 1 fluid ounce equals 1 ounce. For all other ingredients, when the amount is expressed in ounces, weigh it; when the amount is expressed in fluid ounces, measure it with an accurate liquid (or volume) measuring tool.
CONVERTING VOLUME MEASURES TO WEIGHT
CONVERTING BETWEEN U.S. AND METRIC MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS The m etric system, used throughout most of the world, is a decimal system, meaning th at it is based on m ulti ples o f 10. The gram is the basic unit of weight, the liter is the basic unit of volume, and the m eter is the basic unit o f length. Prefixes added to the basic units indicate larger or smaller units. For instance, a kilogram is 1 0 0 0 grams, a m illiliter is Viooo liter, and a centim eter is Vwo meter. The U.S. system, fam iliar to most Americans, uses ounces and pounds to measure weight, and teaspoons, tablespoons, fluid ounces, cups, pints, quarts, and gal lons to measure volume. Unlike the metric system, the U.S. system is not based on multiples of a particular number, so it is not as simple to increase or decrease quantities. Instead, either the equivalencies of the d if
You can convert a volume measure into a weight if you
feren t units of measure must be memorized or a chart
know how much 1 cup of an ingredient (prepared as
must be kept handy (see page 1166).
required by the recipe) weighs. This inform ation is avail
M ost modern measuring equipment is capable of
able in a number of charts or ingredient databases. (See
measuring in both U.S. and metric units. If, however, a
Weights and Measures Equivalents, page 11 66 .) You can
recipe is w ritten in a system of measurement for which
also calculate and record the inform ation yourself as
you do not have the proper measuring equipment, you
follows:
will need to convert to the other system.
1. Prepare the ingredient as directed by the recipe— s ift flour, chop nuts, mince garlic, grate cheeses, and so fo rth . 2 . Set the measuring device on the scale and reset the scale to zero (known as tore). 3 . Fill the measuring device correctly. For liquids, use graduated measuring cups or pitchers and fill
CALCULATING AS-PURCHASED COST (APC) M ost food items purchased from suppliers are packed and priced by wholesale bulk sizes such as by the crate, case, bag, carton, and so on. Yet in kitchen production, the packed amount is not always used for the same pur pose and may often be broken down and used fo r several
to the desired level. To be sure th at you have mea
items. Therefore, in order to allocate the proper prices
sured accurately, bend down until the level mark
to each recipe, it is necessary to convert purchase pack
on the measure is at your eye level. The measuring
prices to unit prices, which are expressed as price per
utensil must be sitting on a level surface fo r an ac
pound, each, by the dozen, by the quart, and the like.
curate measurem ent. Use nested measuring tools
If you know the cost of a pack with many units, calcu
fo r dry ingredients measured by volume. O verfill
late the cost per unit by dividing the as-purchased cost
the measure, then scrape away the excess as you
of the pack by the number of units in the pack.
level o ff the measure. 4 . Return the filled measuring tool to the scale and record the weight in either grams or ounces on your standardized recipe.
APC ADr .. -------------------------- = APC per unit Number of units If you know the unit price of an item, you can d eter mine the to tal cost by multiplying the as-purchased cost (APC) per unit by the number of units. APC per unit x Number of units = Total APC
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
CALCULATING THE YI ELD OF FRESH FRUITS
CAL CUL ATI NG THE AS - P U RC H AS ED
AND VEGETABLES and D et e r m i n i n g Yi eld
Q U A N T I T Y (APQ) Using Yield Percent
Per cent
Because m any recipes assume th e in g re d ie n ts lis te d are
For m any fo o d item s, trim m in g is re q u ire d b e fo re th e
ready to cook, it is necessary to con sid er th e trim loss
ite m s are a ctu a lly used. In o rd e r to d e te rm in e an ac
when purchasing item s. In th is case, th e edible p o rtio n
cura te c o s t f o r the se item s, th e trim loss m u st be taken
q u a n tity m ust be c o n ve rte d to the as-purchased quan
in to account. From th is in fo rm a tio n , th e yie ld pe rce n t
t it y th a t when trim m e d w ill give the desired edible p o r
w ill be im p o rta n t in d e te rm in in g th e q u a n tity th a t you
tio n q u a n tity . The yie ld p e rce n t is used as a to o l when
need to order.
ord erin g.
F irst, reco rd th e as-purchased q u a n tity (APQ) fro m th e invoice, o r w eigh th e ite m b e fo re trim m in g or cu ttin g .
EPQ
= APQ
Yield percent Exam ple: A recipe req uire s 20 pounds o f cleaned
EXAMPLE:
shredded cabbage. The yie ld p e rce n t f o r cabbage is 79
APQ = 5 lb ( = 8 0 oz) carrots
pe rcen t. When th e 20 pounds is d ivid e d by 7 9 pe rce n t
Trim th e ite m and c u t as desired, saving trim and ed ib le p o rtio n q u a n tity in sep ara te con tain ers. W eigh each se p a ra te ly and reco rd th e ir w e ig h ts on a co s tin g fo rm :
(0.79), th e re s u lt equals 2 5 .3 pounds, w hich w ill be the m inim um am ount to purchase. G enerally, th e as-purchased q u a n tity o b tain ed by th is m ethod is rounded up, since the yie ld pe rce n t is
As-Purchased Q uantity (APQ) - Trim loss = Edible
an e stim a te . Some che fs increase th e fig u re by an ad
Portion Q uantity (EPQ)
d itio n a l 10 p e rce n t to account f o r human e rro r as well.
EXAMPLE:
M any processed o r re fin e d fo o d s have a 10 0 pe rce n t
It should be k e p t in m ind th a t n o t all fo o d s have a loss.
8 0 oz carrots (APQ) - 8.8 oz carrot trim = 7 1 .2 oz
yie ld, such as sugar, flo u r, or d rie d spices. O th er fo o d s have a yie ld p e rce n t th a t depends on how the y are
sliced carrots
served. If, fo r exam ple, the in g re d ie n t is to be served by N ext, d ivid e the EPQ by th e APQ:
th e piece (h a lf a cantaloupe), o r if a recipe calls f o r it by co u n t (15 stra w b e rrie s), th e yie ld p e rc e n t is n o t co n sid
Edible Portion Q uantity _ y ie ld percent As-Purchased Q uantity
ered; th e c o rre c t num ber o f ite m s m ust be purchased in o rd e r to cre a te th e c o rre c t num ber o f servings. However, if you are m aking a f r u it salad and you know
EXAMPLE:
you need 2 ounces o f cubed m elon and 1 ounce o f sliced 71 .2 oz sliced carrots (EPQ) _
q
gg
8 0 oz carrots (APQ)
s tra w b e rrie s per serving, you m ust con sid er th e yield p e rce n t when ord erin g.
To convert the decimal to a percent, m ultiply by
CAL CUL ATI NG EDIBLE PORTION QU AN TI TY
100: Yield percent = 8 9 %
(EPQ) Using Yi eld Percent
NOTE: For m ore in fo rm a tio n on any o f the above
S om e tim es it is necessary f o r you to de te rm in e how
culina ry m ath to p ics, re fe r to M a t h f o r the Profe ssio n al
m any p o rtio n s can be o b ta in e d fro m raw p ro d u ct. For
Kitchen by Laura Dreesen, M ichael N othnagel, and Susan
exam ple, if you have a case o f fre s h green beans th a t
W ysocki.
w eighs 20 pounds and you need to know how many 4-ounce servings are in th e case, w h a t you need to do f ir s t is d e te rm in e th e yie ld p e rce n t f o r green beans, e ith e r by re fe rrin g to a lis t o f yie ld pe rce n t values or by p e rfo rm in g a yie ld te s t. Once you know th e yield pe rcen t, you can com p ute th e w e ig h t o f th e green beans a fte r trim m in g .
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
EXAMPLE:
APQ x Yield percent = EPQ
4 oz tourneed carrots (EPQ) x S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed EXAMPLE:
carrots (EPC) = $ 0 ,5 6 4 per serving (to ta l cost)
2 0 lb green beans (APQ) x 0 .8 8 (Yield percent) = 17.6 lb green beans (EPQ)
CAL CUL AT I NG THE VALUE OF
The edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (EPQ) w ould be 17.6 pounds. The second ste p w ould be to com p ute how many 4-ounce servings th e re are in 17.6 pounds. If necessary, c o n ve rt th e p o rtio n size (here, 4 ounces) to th e same u n it o f m easure as th e edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (here, 1 pound). There are 16 ounces in 1 pound; 1 p o rtio n is equal to V\ (or 0.25) pound. EPQ
U SABLE TRI M O ften , som e o f th e trim m in g s fro m a fo o d may be used to pre pa re o th e r fo o d s. For exam ple, i f you have to u rn e e d a c a rro t, ra th e r than c u ttin g it in to dice or rounds, you can use th e trim to prepare a soup, puree, or o th e r dish. U sing th e in fo rm a tio n fro m your y ie ld te s t, you can calcula te th e value o f th e trim . F irst, de term in e
= Number of servings
Portion size
th e use f o r th e trim , the n fin d th e co st per u n it and yield p e rc e n t f o r th a t in g re d ie n t, as if you had to buy it to pre pa re th e dish. For instance, if you use th e trim fro m c a rro t to u rn e e s to pre pa re a soup, th e fo o d cost fo r
EXAMPLE:
th e c a rro t trim is th e same as f o r a c a rro t th a t has been 17.6 lb green beans (EPQ) . ----------- ® 5 = 70 .4 servings 0.25 lb serving size
trim m e d and chopped. EXAMPLE:
You w ould be able to o b ta in seve nty fu ll servings fro m th e case o f green beans. You should round down any p a rtia l num ber o f p o rtio n s since it w ould n o t be plau sible to serve a p a rtia l p o rtio n to a guest.
SO.1 0 6 (As-purchased cost of carrots per ounce) _ S 0.1 19 (value of 0 .8 9 (Yield percent fo r chopped carrots)
usable carrot trim fo r soup per ounce)
CALCULATI NG EDIBLE PORTION COST As discussed earlier, recipes o fte n assume in g re d ie n ts are ready to cook, so when it com es to co s tin g a recipe, the edible p o rtio n co st (EPC) per u n it can be calcula ted fro m th e as-purchased co s t (APC) pe r unit, as long as the edible p o rtio n is expressed in th e same u n it o f m ea sure as th e c o s t unit. APC
Some p ro d u c ts produce trim th a t can be used in a v a rie ty o f ways. For exam ple, a s trip loin produces trim m in g s th a t can be used in several recipes. The chef may use som e o f th e trim to prepare a c la rific a tio n th a t m ig h t o th e rw is e re q u ire ground m eat, and m ore o f the trim to make a fillin g f o r fa jita s . F inding a d d itio n a l uses f o r trim reduces co sts and helps to e lim in a te w aste.
: EPC
Yield percent
EXAMPLE: S 0 .1 0 6 /o z carrots (APC) 0.7 5 (Yield % fo r
= S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed carrots (EPC)
tourneed carrots)
EPQ x EPC = Total cost
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
using recipes effectively In th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, a recipe can be used to
a w hole b e e f te n d e rlo in and how much you are a ctu a lly
im prove e ffic ie n c y and o rg a n iza tio n and to increase
paying per pound f o r th e trim m e d m eat you serve, you
p ro fits . When you know th e a p p ro xim a te yie ld pe rce n t
can be m ore e ffe c tiv e a t reducing loss and decreas
f o r onions and ca rro ts, you can g e t th e rig h t am o un t fo r
ing th e o p e ra tio n ’s overall fo o d costs. Learning to read
a recipe in a single v is it to th e w a lk-in . If you un derstand
recipes c a re fu lly and using the m m ore p ro d u c tiv e ly is an
th e d iffe re n c e be tw ee n th e price you paid per pound fo r
im p o rta n t ste p in de veloping you r p ro fe ssio n a l skills.
the butchers yield test The purpose of a butcher’s yield test is to find the accu
GENERAL PROCEDURES
rate costs of fabricated meats, fish, and poultry. This is
Select the item to be tested and record the as-purchased
done to determine the amount of usable meat and trim
weight. (Make sure you use the same scale for the entire
from a particular fabrication and to calculate the value
test.) Fabricate the item to desired specifications. Keep
of all edible cuts, including not only the portion of meat
all parts (bones, fat, usable cuts, usable trim) in separate
served to the guest but also the value of bones used for
tubs or trays, and record all weights.
stock and of trim used for ground meat, pates, soups, or
Use current prices for the meat item as purchased.
other dishes.
Use market values for fat, bones, and usable trim. For instance, if you save the lean meat to make ground meat, the value of that part of the trim is the price you would have to pay to purchase ground meat.
1. Determ ine the As-Purchased Cost (APC). As-purchased weight x As-purchased price per lb = APC EXAMPLE: 2 8 lb x S I.3 0 /lb = $ 3 6 .4 0 (APC) 2. Fabricate the meat. EXAMPLE: trim m ed # 1 0 3 beef rib roast to # 1 0 9 beef rib (roast-ready) 3. Determ ine the to tal trim weight and to tal trim value. Fat trim w eight
Total trim weight
20
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
x M arket p
per lb
= Trim value (fa t)
per lb
= Trim value (bones)
per lb
= Trim value (trim ) Total trim value
EXAMPLE: 3 lb Fat
x SO .lO /lb
= $ 0 .3 0
+ 4 lb Bones
x SO .30/lb
= S I . 20
+ 5 lb Usable trim
x S I.3 0 /lb
12 lb Total trim w eight
= S6.50 = S8.00 Total trim value
4. Determ ine the New Fabricated W eight (NFW). As-purchased weight - Total trim w eight = NFW EXAMPLE: 2 8 lb As-purchased w eight - 12 lb Total trim w eight = 16 lb (NFW ) 5. Determ ine the New Fabricated Cost (NFC). APC - Total trim value = NFC EXAMPLE: S 36 .40 - S 8.00 = S 28.40 (NFC) 6. Determ ine the New Fabricated Price per Pound (NFPP). NFC
= NFPP
NFW
EXAMPLE: ^ ^ 5 = S 1 .7 7 /lb (NFPP) 16 lb
7. Determ ine the Cost Factor (CF). NFPP
= CF
As-purchased price per pound
EXAMPLE: = ! 36 (CF) $ 1 .3 0 /lb
8. Determ ine the yield percent. NFW — As-purchased weight
= Yield percent
EXAMPLE: --6— = 0.5 7 = 5 7 % (Yield percent) 281b
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
21
9. Determ ine the number of portions of final product from the fabrication. NFW x 16 oz = Total number of ounces
Total number of ounces , , -— = Number of portions — Portion size (in oz)
EXAMPLE: How many 12-oz portions can be obtained from 16 lb of trim m ed meat? 16 lb x 16 oz = 2 5 6 oz
= 2 1 .3 3 (21 full portions) 12 oz
10. Determ ine the cost per portion. NFPP r . f1 ------- -- = Cost of 1 oz 16 oz Cost of 1 oz x Portion size = Cost per portion EXAMPLE: W hat is the cost of one 12-oz portion?
—1 .7 7 /l b _ 0 .1 1 0 6 (cost of 1 oz; = 1 1 .0 6 cents/oz) 16 oz
0 .1 1 0 6 x 12 oz = S I . 3 3 (cost per portion)
22
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the basics of nutrition and food science Nutrition refers to the study of diet and health. It is through the comprehension of this study that we as foodservice proJfSsionals can Jp
accommodate and enrich diners' dietary preferences a#id restrictions. Meeting the dietary needs of today's lifestyles invol)fes an understanding that people eat or don’t eat certain foods for diffejgmt reasons. The concerns of customers have moved beyond just t i p flavor and texture of food and now extend to a healthy diet full o f jp t r it io u s highquality foods.
Mf
d
nutrition basics Beyond o ffe rin g fla v o rfu l o p tio n s, th e fo o d s e rv ic e p ro
o th e r in co m p le te p ro te in s, can becom e com p le te p ro
fe s s io n a l w ill b e n e fit fro m u n d e rsta n d in g how energy
tein s. W hen fo llo w in g a ve g e ta ria n diet, th e fo llo w in g
and n u trie n ts w o rk. To begin, energy and n u trie n ts are
co m b in a tio n s o ffe r a sam ple o f n o n-m e at-base d com
used f o r g ro w th , m aintenance, and re p a ir o f our bodies.
p le te p ro te in s:
Energy, counted in calories, com es fro m carb oh ydrate s, pro te in , fa t, and alcohol. The f ir s t th re e are considered p rim a ry n u trie n ts , w h ile alcohol is not. Any fo o d source th a t has a good sup ply o f n u trie n ts in re la tio n to the num ber o f calorie s it con tain s is considered n u trie n t dense.
C A R BO HY DR AT E S C arbohydrates pro vid e energy f o r m uscle m ovem ent and red blood cells, and play a role in th e re g u la tio n o f fa t m etab olism . Com posed o f sm a lle r u n its known
» Grains and legumes » Lentils and rice » Pasta and beans » Tortillas and beans » Tofu and rice » Hummus and whole w heat pita
FAT
as sim ple ca rb o h yd ra te s and com ple x carb oh ydrate s,
F at is o fte n a s ig n ific a n t concern o f th o se w a tch in g
the se are necessary f o r th e body to w o rk e ffic ie n tly and
w h a t th e y eat. W hile it is tru e th a t excess f a t in th e d ie t
to f u lf ill its energy needs. S im ple ca rb o h yd ra te s (gener
is un healthy because it raises th e ris k o f c oro na ry he art
ally sugars) are fo u n d in fr u its and ju ices, d a iry pro du cts,
disease, o b e sity, and c e rta in cancers, f a t is s till an es
and re fin e d sugars. Com plex ca rb o h yd ra te s (generally
s e n tia l n u trie n t th a t pro vid es energy and fu lfills b o dily
starche s) are fo u n d in pla n t-b a se d fo o d s such as grains,
fu n ctio n s.
legum es, and veg etab le s. Foods co n ta in in g com plex
C u rre n t d ie ta ry advice places em phasis on the typ e
ca rb o h yd ra te s are also usually good sources o f o th e r
o f fa t as w e ll as th e am ount o f f a t in th e d ie t. M o s t o f
im p o rta n t com p on ents o f a h e a lth y d ie t, in clud in g v ita
th e da ily in ta ke o f fa t should come fro m m ono- and p o ly
mins and m inerals.
u n sa tu ra te d sources. A ltho ug h consum ing m ore than th e recom m ended lim it o f f a t is o fte n a sso cia te d w ith
PROTEIN P ro te in is a n u trie n t e sse n tia l f o r th e g ro w th and m ain tenance o f body tissue s, f o r horm one, enzyme, and a n tib o d y p ro d u ctio n , and f o r th e re g u la tio n o f b o d ily flu id s . The basic bu ild in g blocks are re fe rre d to as amino acids. There are nine e sse n tia l am ino acids th a t m ust be sup plied th ro u g h the d ie t because th e body does not produce them . A ll p ro te in -ric h fo o d s con tain some or all o f th e nine. P ro te in fo o d s are ca te g o rize d as e ith e r c o m p le te or in co m p le te , depending on th e presence or lack o f e sse n tia l am ino acids. A co m p le te p ro te in is a fo o d th a t pro vid es all nine am ino acids in the c o rre c t ra tio to su p p o rt th e p ro d u c tio n o f o th e r p ro te in s by th e a d u lt
w e ig h t gain and o b e sity, excess to ta l calories are the ro o t o f th a t problem . C h o le ste ro l is a fa t-re la te d com pound; the tw o ty p e s are d ie ta ry and serum . D ie ta ry ch o le s te ro l is only fo u n d in anim al fo o d s. Serum o r blood ch o le s te ro l is fo u n d in th e b lo o d stre a m and is e sse n tia l to life . It is not necessary f o r ad u lts to consum e c h o le ste ro l, because th e human body is capable o f m a n u fa ctu rin g all the cho le s te ro l th a t it needs in te rn a lly. Foods high in ch o le ste ro l te n d to have high am ounts o f fa t. R egardless o f how many calorie s are consum ed daily, it is recom m ended th a t ch o le s te ro l in ta ke n o t exceed 3 0 0 m illigram s.
V I T A M I N S AND M I N E R A L S
human body. M eat, p o u ltry , and fis h are good sources o f
Needed in sm a lle r q u a n titie s than pro te in , ca rb o h y
co m p le te p ro te in s.
drates, and fa t, vita m in s and m inerals are noncaloric
Inco m p le te p ro te in s, such as veg etab le s, grains,
e sse n tia l n u trie n ts . V ita m in s are c la s s ifie d as e ith e r
legum es, and nuts, do n o t con tain all th e e sse n tia l amino
w a te r-s o lu b le o r fa t-s o lu b le . W a te r-so lu b le vita m in s
acids. However, each o f the se fo o d s con tain s some o f
dissolve in w a te r and are easily tra n s p o rte d th ro u g h o u t
the e sse ntia l am ino acids th a t, when com bined w ith
the body in the blo o d stre a m . F a t-so lu b le vita m in s are
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
stored in fa t tissues. Both form s of vitamins, as well
composed of a variety o f foods is the healthiest way to
as minerals, are found in many d iffe ren t food sources.
m eet normal nutrient requirements. For a listing of vita
Because no food contains every essential nutrient in the
mins and minerals with their functions and food sources,
correct proportions and no single pill or supplement can
re fer to page 26.
compensate fo r a poor diet, eating a well-balanced diet
menu development and nutrition » M anage the amount of fa t used both as an ingredi
When the diet offers balanced nutrition, obtaining the necessary amount of energy and nutrients is easy.
ent and as part of a preparation or cooking tech
Although it is impossible to know what a customer
nique.
has consumed before entering your establishment, by
» Serve appropriate portions of food.
predicting the combinations of courses th a t your cus tomers are likely to order, you can design your menus to ensure they receive delicious, nutritious, well-balanced meals. As the recommended dietary guidelines continue to change, one thing remains the same: portion control is essential to maintaining a healthy weight. Optimum por
» Use salt w ith care and purpose. » O ffe r a va riety of beverages, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic, th a t complem ent the food menu.
HEALTHY SUBSTITUTIONS
tion size fo r any individual depends primarily on his or
By making simple modifications to existing recipes,
her daily caloric requirements based on age, size, build,
healthier versions are within reach.
and level of physical activity. Fats, oils, and sweets are suggested in very lim ited quantities. O ffering a menu rich in grain products, vegetables, and fruits, low in fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol, and moderate in sugars,
ORIGINAL
MO DIFIED
le g g
2 egg whites
Saute in butter
Sweat in broth/stock
1 cup mayonnaise
V i cup mayonnaise plus V i cup
salt, and sodium will help customers follow a healthy plan.
nonfat yogurt
Because consumers have grown increasingly con scious of the need to make well-balanced meal choices,
1 cup sour cream
1 cup nonfat yogurt plus 1 to 2
the professional chef has been given the opportunity
tbsp butterm ilk or lemon juice
to make a difference. Developing healthy, flavorful, and
plus 1 tbsp flour per 8 oz yogurt
satisfying menu items is both easy and worthwhile.
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup evaporated skim milk
The following is a set of principles developed for healthy cooking. The guidelines are meant as a reference
Your establishm ent will find it rewarding to o ffe r a
fo r food selection, cooking techniques, and beverage o f
variety of options. Continually striving to m eet the ex
ferings. They should be regarded as ways to explore the
pectations of those who walk through your door should
possibilities of flavor and healthy cooking.
be an ongoing challenge fo r you and your staff. Consult The Culinary Institute of America's Techniques o f
» Select nutrient-dense ingredients.
H e a lth y Cooking fo r a more thorough discussion of nu » Store and prepare all foods with the aim of preserv
trition, innovative recipes, and specialized techniques.
ing th eir best possible flavor, texture, color, and overall nutritional value. » Incorporate a variety of plant-based dishes in all categories of the menu.
c h a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
VITAMINS AND MINERALS: THEIR FUNCTIONS 6 COMMON SOURCES W A T E R -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
M IN E R A L S
Name: B-complex (thiamin, riboflavin, niacin,
Name: Calcium (body’s most abundant mineral)
folate, biotin, pantothenic acid, B6, Bn)
Function: Used in the development o f bones and
Function: Allow for proper release o f energy in
teeth; regulates blood pressure; aids in muscle
the body
contraction, transmission o f nerve impulses, and
Food Source: Grains; legumes; vegetables; animal
clotting o f the blood
protein (B12 only found in animal foods)
Food Source: Dairy products (milk, yogurt);
Name: Vitamin C
broccoli; green leafy vegetables
Function: Increases body’s absorption o f iron;
Name: Phosphorus
aids in growth and maintenance of body tissue;
Function: Plays a key role in energy-releasing
boosts immune system; contains antioxidant
reactions; used in conjunction with calcium for
properties
maintaining bones and teeth
Food Source: Fruits and vegetables (berries,
Food Source: Animal protein; nuts; cereals;
melons, tomatoes, potatoes, green leafy
legumes
vegetables) F A T -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
Name: Sodium and potassium (electrolytes) Function: Aid in the regulation o f bodily
Name: Vitamin A
functions; help to maintain the body’s normal
Function: Aids in proper vision, bone growth,
fluid balance; involved in nerve and muscle
reproduction, cell division and differentiation;
functions
regulates immune system; maintains surface
Food Source: Sodium is plentiful in many foods;
linings
potassium is found in virtually all fruits and
Food Source: Animal protein such as liver and
vegetables
eggs; the precursor—beta carotene—is found
Name: Magnesium
in orange, deep yellow, and dark green leafy vegetables
Function: Promotes healthy teeth and bones,
muscle contractions, nerve transmission, and
Name: Vitamin D
bowel functions
Function: Aids in proper bone formation
Food Source: Green vegetables; nuts; legumes;
Food Source: Milk; some cereal and breads; fatty
whole grains
fish; egg yolks
Name: Fluoride
Name: Vitamin E
Function: Helps to prevent tooth decay; may help
Function: Protects body from damage by free
to prevent osteoporosis
radicals; contains antioxidant properties
Food Source: Community water; saltwater fish;
Food Source: Nuts; seeds; seed oils; avocados;
shellfish; tea
sweet potatoes; green leafy vegetables Name: Vitamin K
Name: Iodine Function: Essential for the normal functioning of
Function: Aids in proper blood clotting
the thyroid gland; helps to regulate metabolism,
Food Source: Dark green leafy vegetables such as
cellular oxidation, and growth
spinach, kale, broccoli
Food Source: Table salt; cod; grains Name: Iron Function: Helps to carry oxygen from the lungs to
cells; involved in cellular energy metabolism Food Source: Liver and red meat; whole grains;
legumes; green leafy vegetables; dried fruit
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
food science basics There are dozens o f s c ie n tific prin cip le s a t w o rk d u r
p o rtio n o f the gas o r liquid clo se st to the heat source
ing th e coo kin g process. As an in tro d u c tio n to th e to p ic
w arm s f ir s t and becom es less dense, causing it to rise
o f fo o d science, th is se ctio n pro vid es an ove rvie w o f
and be replaced by cooler, denser p o rtio n s o f the gas or
th e m o s t basic o f th e se p rincip le s. For m ore in fo rm a
liquid. C onvection, th e re fo re , is a com b in a tio n o f con
tio n on any o f th e fo llo w in g sub je cts, re fe r to Readings
d u ctio n and m ixing.
and Resources (page 1 1 8 5 ) f o r a lis t o f fo o d science
C onvection occurs b o th n a tu ra lly and throu gh m e chanical means. N a tu ra l con vectio n is a t w o rk in a p o t o f
references.
w a te r placed on th e stove to boil. C onduction tra n s fe rs
HEATTRANSFER
he at fro m th e stove to th e p o t to th e w a te r m olecules in c o n ta c t w ith th e in te rio r o f th e pot. As the se w a te r m ol
C ooking is th e a ct o f a p plying heat to fo o d s to prepare the m f o r eating. W hen fo o d s are cooked, changes in f la vor, te x tu re , arom a, color, and n u tritio n a l c o n te n t occur du rin g th e process. There are th re e ways th a t he at is tra n s fe rre d to fo o d s. C onduction is the d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een ad ja cent m olecules. An exam ple o f con du ction is co o k ing on a f la tto p range. H eat is tra n s fe rre d fro m th e m o l ecules o f th e h o t range surface to th e m olecules o f the ad ja cent pan b o tto m , the n fro m th e pan b o tto m to the pan sides and th e fo o d con tain ed w ith in th e pan. The pan m ust be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith th e range f o r c on du ction to occur.
ecules heat up, con vectio n causes the m to move away and be replaced by co o le r m olecules. This continual m ovem ent re s u lts in con vectio n cu rre n ts w ith in the w a te r. If a p o ta to is added to th e w a te r, th e convection cu rre n ts tra n s fe r he at to th e surface o f th e p o ta to , at w hich p o in t co n d u ctio n ta ke s over to tra n s fe r heat to th e in te rio r o f th e p o ta to . M echanical con vectio n occurs when s tirrin g or a fan is used to speed and equalize heat d is trib u tio n . When you s tir a th ic k sauce to he at it fa s te r and keep it fro m scorch in g on th e b o tto m o f th e pan, you are c re a tin g m e chanical con vectio n. C onvection ovens use fans to rap id ly c irc u la te h o t air, a llo w in g the m to cook fo o d s m ore
Some m a te ria ls are b e tte r co n d u cto rs o f heat than o thers. G enerally, m o st m e ta ls are good con du cto rs, w hile gases (air), liquids, and n o n m e ta llic so lid s (glass, ceram ic) are not. Because it re lie s on d ire c t con tact, con du ction is a re la tiv e ly s lo w m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r, b u t th e slow, d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een ad ja cent m olecules is w h a t allow s a fo o d to be cooked fro m the o u tsid e in, re s u ltin g in a c o m p le te ly cooked e x te rio r w ith a m o is t and ju ic y in te rio r.
q u ickly and evenly tha n con ven tion al ovens. (N atural con vectio n occurs in con ven tion al ovens as air in c o n ta ct w ith th e h e a tin g e lem e nt circu la te s, b u t th e m a jo rity o f heat tra n s fe r in a con ven tion al oven is th e re s u lt o f in fra re d rad ia tion.) Ra d ia tio n is th e tra n s fe r o f energy th ro u g h waves o f e le c tro m a g n e tic energy th a t tra v e l ra p id ly through space. R adia tion does n o t re q u ire d ire c t co n ta c t be tw ee n th e energy source and fo o d . When the waves
Co nve ction is th e tra n s fe r o f heat th ro u g h gases or liquids. When e ith e r o f the se substances is heated, the
tra v e lin g th ro u g h space s trik e m a tte r and are ab sorbed, th e y cause m olecules in th e m a tte r to vib ra te
SIX BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCIENCE Understanding how food reacts under certain conditions is essential to becoming a profes sional chef. From creating a flavorful dish to developing an innovative shortcut, chefs face challenges every day. The six basic principles of food science are as follows:
Caramelization
Maillard reaction
Gelatinization
Denaturation ch a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SCIENCE
__________ ^
________________________________________________________
m ore rapidly, in crea sing th e te m p e ra tu re . Two typ e s
cannot brow n fo o d s, and m e ta l cannot be used in them
o f ra d ia tio n are im p o rta n t in th e kitche n: in fra re d and
because it re fle c ts th e m icrow aves, w hich can cause
m icrow ave.
fire s and damage th e oven.
Sources o f in fra re d ra d ia tio n include th e g low ing coals o f a charcoal g rill o r th e g lo w in g coils o f an e lec tr ic to a s te r, broiler, o r oven. W aves o f ra d ia n t energy tra v e l in all d ire c tio n s fro m the se heat sources. Foods and coo kw a re th a t absorb th e energy waves are heated. Dark, dull, o r rough surface s absorb ra d ia n t energy b e t te r than lig h t-c o lo re d , polished, o r s m o o th surfaces. T ransparent glass p e rm its th e tra n s fe r o f ra d ia n t en ergy, so con ven tion al oven te m p e ra tu re s should be lo w ered by a p p ro x im a te ly 2 5 °F /1 4 °C fro m con vectio n oven s e ttin g s to o ffs e t th e a d d itio n a l energy tra n s fe r th a t occurs when using glass ba kin g dishes. M icro w ave ra d ia tio n , produced by m icrow ave ovens, tra n s fe rs energy th ro u g h s h o rt h ig h -fre q u e n cy waves. When these m icrow aves are absorbed by fo o d , the y cause the fo o d m olecules to v ib ra te fa s te r, c re a tin g heat. M icro w ave ra d ia tio n cooks fo o d much fa s te r than in fra re d ra d ia tio n because it p e n e tra te s fo o d s several inches deep, whereas in fra re d is m ainly absorbed at the surface. Depending on th e ir co m p o sitio n , fo o d s re a ct d iffe re n tly to m icrow aves. Foods w ith high m oistu re, sugar, o r fa t c o n te n t absorb m icrow aves b e st and heat up m ore readily. M icro w ave coo kin g has a fe w draw backs, however. It is be st su ite d to coo kin g sm all batches o f fo o d s. M ea ts cooked in a m icrow ave oven lose g re a te r am ounts o f m o istu re and ea sily becom e dry. M icro w ave ovens also
EFFECTS OF HEAT ON SUGARS AND STARCHES: Caramelization, Maillard Reaction, and Gelation As discussed e a rlie r in th is chapter, carb oh ydrate s come in various fo rm s, and each fo rm re a cts d iffe re n tly when exposed to heat. The tw o fo rm s o f c arb oh ydrate s (sim ple and com plex) th a t are o f in te re s t fro m a basic fo o d science p e rs p e c tiv e are sugar and starch. When exposed to heat, sugar w ill a t f ir s t m e lt in to a th ic k syrup. As its te m p e ra tu re con tinu es to rise, th e sugar syrup changes c o lo r fro m clear to lig h t y e l low to a p ro g re ssive ly deepening brown. This brow ning process is called caram elizatio n. It is a co m p lica te d chem ical rea ction , and in a d d itio n to co lo r change, it also causes th e fla v o r o f th e sugar to evolve and ta ke on th e rich c o m p le x ity th a t we know to be c h a ra c te ris tic o f caram el. D iffe re n t typ e s o f sugar caram elize a t d if fe re n t te m p e ra tu re s . G ranulated w h ite sugar m e lts at 3 2 0 °F /1 6 0 °C and begins to caram elize a t 3 3 8 °F /1 7 0 °C . In fo o d s th a t are n o t p rim a rily sugar o r s tarch, a d iffe re n t re a ctio n , known as th e M a illa r d reaction, is resp on sible f o r brow ning. This re a ctio n involves sugars and am ino acids (the bu ild in g blocks o f pro te in ). When heated, the se com p on ents re a ct and produce num erous chem ical b y-p ro d u cts, re s u ltin g in a brow n co lo r and in te nse fla v o r and aroma. It is th is re a ctio n th a t gives
INDUCTION COOKING Induction cooking is a relatively new cook
good contact with the cooktop, and it must
ing method that transfers heat through
be made of ferrous (iron-containing) metal
a specially designed cooktop made of a
such as cast iron, magnetic stainless steel,
smooth ceramic material over an induc
or enamel over steel. Cookware made of
tion coil. The induction coil creates a
other materials will not heat up on these
magnetic current that causes a metal pan
cooktops. Induction cooking offers the ad
on the cooktop to heat up quickly, yet the
vantages of rapid heating and easy cleanup
cooktop itself remains cool. Heat is then
because there are no nooks on the smooth
transferred to the food in the pan through
surface of the cooktop in which spilled
conduction. Cookware used for induction
foods can get stuck, nor does spilled food
cooking must be flat on the bottom for
cook on the cool surface.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
c o ffe e , chocolate, baked goods, da rk beer, and ro a ste d
based starche s (corn and w heat, f o r exam ple) thicke n
m eats and nuts much o f th e ir rich fla v o r and color.
at high er te m p e ra tu re s and break down m ore slowly.
Though th e M a iila rd re a ctio n can happen a t room te m p e ra tu re , b o th ca ra m e liza tio n and th e M a iila rd
High levels o f sugar o r acid can in h ib it g e la tion, w hile the presence o f s a lt can p ro m o te it.
re a ctio n ty p ic a lly re q u ire re la tiv e ly high heat (above B 00 °F /1 49°C ) to occu r ra p id ly enough to make an ap p re cia ble d iffe re n c e in foo ds. Because w a te r cannot be heated above 2 1 2 °F /1 0 0 °C unless it is under pressure, fo o d s cooked w ith m o is t heat (boiling, steam ing, poach ing, stew ing ) w ill n o t brown. Foods cooked using d ryheat m etho ds (sauteing, g rillin g , or ro a stin g ) w ill brown. It is fo r th is reason th a t many stew e d and braised dishes begin w ith an in itia l b ro w n ing o f in g re d ie n ts b e fo re liq uid is added.
D EN AT U R I NG PROTEINS A t th e m o le cu la r level, n a tural p ro te in s are shaped like coils or springs. When n a tu ra l p ro te in s are exposed to heat, salt, o r acid, th e y d e n a tu re — th a t is, th e ir coils unwind. When p ro te in s denature, the y ten d to bond t o g e th e r (coagulate) and fo rm solid clum ps. An exam ple o f th is is a cooked egg w h ite , which changes fro m a tra n s p a re n t flu id to an opaque solid. As p ro te in s coagulate, th e y lose som e o f th e ir c a p a city to hold w ater, which is
Starch, a com plex carb o h yd ra te , has p o w e rfu l th ic k ening p ro p e rtie s . W hen sta rch is com bined w ith w a te r or an o th e r liq u id and heated, in d ivid u a l sta rch granules absorb th e liq u id and sw ell. This process, known as g e la tion, is w h a t causes th e liquid to thicke n. G elation occurs a t d iffe re n t te m p e ra tu re s f o r d iffe re n t typ e s o f starch. As a general rule o f thum b, ro o t-b a se d starche s (p o ta to and a rro w ro o t, f o r instance) th icke n a t low er te m p e ra tu re s and break down m ore quickly, whereas cereal-
w hy p ro te in -ric h fo o d s give o f f m o istu re as the y cook, even if th e y are steam ed o r poached. F o rtu n a te ly, some he at-in duce d d e n a tu ra tio n is re ve rsib le th ro u g h c o o l ing. This is w hy ro a ste d fo o d s should be allow ed to re st b e fo re carving; as th e te m p e ra tu re fa lls, some o f the w a te r ("juice") th a t was fo rc e d in to spaces betw een the p ro te in s is rea bso rbed and th e fo o d becom es m oister. D enatured p ro te in s are easier to d ig e s t than natural p ro te in s.
EGG STRUCTURE AND USES The egg is composed of two main parts, the
proper structure in many items such as
white and the yolk. Various membranes help
angel food cakes, souffles, and meringues.
keep the yolk suspended at the center of
Egg whites are a key ingredient in clarify
the white and help prevent contamination
ing stocks and broths to produce con
or weight loss through evaporation. Whole
somme. They may also be used as a binder
eggs, as well as whites and yolks separately,
in some forcemeats, especially mousselines
play a number of important culinary roles.
made from fish, poultry, or vegetables.
Whole eggs are used as the main compo
The yolk contains protein, a significant
nent of many breakfast dishes and can be
amount of fat, and a natural emulsifier
prepared by scrambling, frying, poaching,
called lecithin. The yolk also has the ability
or baking, or in custards. In baked goods, whole eggs are used as a glaze and to add
to foam. This function, plus its ability to
nourishment, flavor, and color.
to the preparation of such items as may
The egg white consists almost exclu
form emulsions, makes egg yolks crucial onnaise, hollandaise sauce, and genoise
sively of water and a protein called albu
(sponge cake). Yolks also provide addi
men. Its ability to form a relatively stable
tional richness to food, as when they are
foam is crucial to the development of
included as a liaison in sauces or soups.
c h a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
FU NC T I ON OF COOKING FATS D epending on th e ir m olecu lar s tru c tu re , som e fa ts are solid a t room te m p e ra tu re , w h ile o th e rs are liq u id a t the same te m p e ra tu re . Fats th a t are liq u id a t room te m p e r atu re are known as oils. S olid fa ts s o fte n and eve ntua lly m e lt in to a liquid s ta te when exposed to heat. In a d d itio n to being a v ita l n u trie n t, fa t p e rfo rm s a
a d d itio n a l m a te ria ls in th e fa t (e m u lsifie rs, pre se rva tive s, p ro te in s, carb oh ydrate s) low er th e smoke point. Because som e breakdow n occurs a t m od era te te m pe ra tu re s and fo o d p a rtic le s ten d to g e t le ft in th e fa t, re p ea te d use o f fa t also low ers the smoke point.
F OR MI N G E M U L S I O N S
num ber o f c u lin a ry fu n ctio n s. It pro vid es a rich fla v o r
An em ulsion occurs when tw o substances th a t do not
and s ilk y m o u th fe e l or te x tu re th a t m o st people fin d
n o rm ally m ix are fo rc e d in to a m ix tu re in which one o f
very enjoyable and s a tis fy in g . F at also ca rrie s and
th e substances is evenly dispe rsed in the fo rm o f sm all
blends the fla v o rs o f o th e r fo o d s, and m akes available
d ro p le ts th ro u g h o u t th e other. U nder norm al con ditions,
to us fla v o r com pounds and n u trie n ts th a t are soluble
f a t (e ith e r liquid o il o r solid fa t) and w a te r do n o t mix,
only in fa t. F at pro vid es an ap pe aling visu al elem e nt
bu t the se tw o substances are th e m ost com m on in g re d i
when a fo o d appears, am ong o th e r things, to be m oist,
ents in culina ry em ulsions.
cream y, flu ffy , or shiny. D uring th e baking process, fa t p e rfo rm s a m u ltitu d e o f chem ical fu n c tio n s such as
An em ulsion con sists o f tw o phases, the dispersed phase and the con tinu ou s phase. A v in a ig re tte is an
te n d e rizin g , leavening, aiding in m o is tu re re te n tio n ,
exam ple o f an o il-in -v in e g a r em ulsion, m eaning th a t
and c re a tin g a fla k y o r cru m b ly te x tu re . In cooking, fa t
th e oil (the dispe rsed phase) has been broken up in to
tra n s fe rs heat to fo o d s and pre ven ts the m fro m s tic k
ve ry sm all d ro p le ts suspended th ro u g h o u t the vinegar
ing. It also holds th e heat in fo o d , e m u ls ifie s o r thicke ns
(the con tinu ou s phase). T em porary em ulsions, such as
sauces, and cre a te s a crisp te x tu re when used f o r fry in g .
v in a ig re tte s , fo rm q u ickly and req uire only the m echani
One im p o rta n t aspect o f fa t is its a b ility to be heated
cal actio n o f w hipping, shaking, or s tirrin g . To make an
to re la tiv e ly high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t b o ilin g or o th
em ulsion sta b le enough to keep th e oil in suspension,
erw ise bre aking down. This is w h a t allow s frie d fo o d s to
a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts, known as e m u lsifie rs, are neces
brown and cook quickly. If heated to high enough te m
sary to a ttra c t and hold to g e th e r both th e o il and liquid.
pe rature s, however, fa t w ill begin to bre ak down and de
C om m only used e m u ls ifie rs include egg yolks (which
velop an acrid flavo r, e ffe c tiv e ly ru inin g a n yth in g cooked
con tain th e e m u ls ifie r le cithin ), m ustard, and glace
in it. The te m p e ra tu re a t w hich th is occurs, known as the
de viande. N a tu ra l starche s, such as tho se in ga rlic, or
sm oke poin t, is d iffe re n t fo r each fa t. G enerally, veg
m o d ifie d starches, such as co rn sta rch o r a rro w ro o t, are
eta b le oils begin to sm oke around 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C , w hile
also used.
anim al fa ts begin to sm oke around 3 7 5 °F /1 9 1 °C . Any
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
food and kitchen safety The importance of food and kitchen safety cannot be overemphasized. Few things are as detrimental to a foodservice establishment as an officially noted outbreak of a food-borne illness caused by poor sanitary practices. In addition to providing a sanitary atmosphere and adhering to procedures for safe food handling, it is also important to ensure a safe working environment. This chapter covers jfte causes of foodborne illnesses and prevention procedures, and/ikludes checklists to help the s ta ff achieve sanitary and safe kitjn en conditions.
i
food-borne illness Foods can serve as ca rrie rs fo r many d iffe re n t illnesses.
an in fe c tio n . Som e fo o d -b o rn e illnesses have ch a ra c te r
The m o st com m on sym p to m s o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses
is tic s o f b o th an in to x ic a tio n and an in fe ctio n . E. coli is
include abdom inal cram ps, nausea, v o m itin g , and d ia r
an agent th a t causes such an illness.
rhea, p o ssib ly accom panied by fever. These sym ptom s may appear w ith in a fe w hours a fte r con sum p tion o f the a ffe c te d fo o d , alth ou gh in some cases several days may elapse b e fo re onset. In o rd e r f o r a fo o d -b o rn e illne ss to be declared an o ffic ia l o u tb re a k, it m u st involve tw o or m ore people who have eaten th e same fo o d , and health o ffic ia ls m ust c o n firm it. F ood-borne illnesses are caused by a d u lte ra t e d fo o d s (food s u n fit f o r human consum ption). The seve r ity o f th e illne ss depends on th e am ount o f a d u lte ra te d fo o d in ge ste d and, to a g re a t e xte n t, th e in d iv id u a l’s sus c e p tib ility . Children, th e elde rly, and anyone whose im mune system is already under siege g e ne rally w ill have much m ore d iffic u lty than a h e a lth y a d u lt in c o m b a tin g a fo o d -b o rn e illness. The source o f th e co n ta m in a tio n a ffe c tin g th e fo o d supply can be chem ical, physical, o r biolo gical. Inse cticide s and cleaning com pounds are exam ples o f chemical c o n ta m in a n ts th a t may a c cid e n ta lly fin d th e ir way in to foo ds. Physical c o n ta m in a n ts include b its o f glass, ro d e n t hairs, and p a in t chips. C areless fo o d han d ling can mean th a t even an e a rrin g or a p la s tic bandage could fa ll in to the fo o d and re s u lt in illne ss or injury. Bio lo gic a l c o n ta m in a n ts account f o r th e m a jo rity o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. These include n a tu ra lly oc cu rrin g poisons, known as toxins, fo u n d in ce rta in w ild m ushroom s, rhubarb leaves, green p o ta to e s, and o th e r plants. The p re d o m in a n t b io lo g ica l agents, however, are disease-causing m icro orga nism s known as pa thogens, which are resp on sible f o r up to 95 p e rc e n t o f alt fo o d borne illnesses. M icro o rg a n ism s o f m any kinds are p re se n t v irtu a lly everyw here, and m o st are h e lp fu l or harm less, if n o t esse ntia l; only ab o u t 1 p e rce n t o f m ic ro organism s are a ctu a lly pathogenic. Food-borne illnesses caused by b io lo g ica l con ta m in a n ts fa ll in to tw o sub categ orie s: in to x ic a tio n and in fe c tio n . I n to x ic a tio n occurs when a person consumes fo o d c o n ta in in g to x in s fro m b a cteria , m olds, o r ce rta in plan ts and anim als. Once in th e body, th e se to x in s a ct as poison. B o tu lism is an exam ple o f an in to x ic a tio n . In th e case o f an in fe ctio n, th e fo o d eaten by an in d i vid ua l contains large num bers o f liv in g pathogens. These pathogens m u ltip ly in th e body and g e n e ra lly a tta c k the g a s tro in te s tin a l lining. S alm on ellosis is an exam ple o f
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
FOOD PATHOGENS The s p e c ific ty p e s o f pathogens resp on sible f o r fo o d borne illne sses are fun gi, viruses, parasites, and bac te ria . Fungi, w hich include m olds and yeast, are m ore ad ap ta ble than o th e r m icro orga nism s and have a high to le ra n ce f o r acidic co n d itio n s. They are m ore o fte n re spo nsible f o r fo o d spoilage than f o r fo o d -b o rn e illness. B e n e ficia l fu n g i are im p o rta n t to th e fo o d in d u s try in th e p ro d u c tio n o f cheese, bread, wine, and beer. Viruses do n o t a c tu a lly m u ltip ly in fo o d , b u t if th ro u g h p o or s a n ita tio n p ra ctice a viru s con tam in ates fo o d , con sum p tion o f th a t fo o d may re s u lt in illness. In fe c tio u s h e p a titis A, caused by e a tin g sh e llfis h har veste d fro m p o llu te d w a te rs (an ille g a l p ra ctice ) or poor hand-w ashing p ra ctice s a fte r using th e re stro o m , is an exam ple. Once in th e body, a viru s invades a cell (called th e h o s t cell) and e s s e n tia lly rep rog ram s it to produce m ore copies o f the virus. The copies leave the dead host cell behind and invade s till m ore cells. The be st defenses against fo o d -b o rn e viru ses are good personal hygiene and o b ta in in g s h e llfis h fro m c e rtifie d w a te rs. P ara sit es are pathogens th a t fe e d on and ta ke shel te r in a n o th e r organism , called a host. The ho st receives no b e n e fit fro m th e p a ra site and, in fa c t, s u ffe rs harm or even de ath as a re su lt. A m ebas and variou s w orm s such as Trichinella spiralis, which is a sso cia te d w ith pork, are am ong th e p a ra site s th a t c o n ta m in a te foo ds. D iffe re n t p a ra site s rep rod uce in d iffe re n t ways. One exam ple is the p a ra s itic w orm th a t e xists in larval stage in m uscle m eats. Once consumed, its life cycle and re p ro d u ctive cycle continue. W hen th e larvae reach a d u lt stage, the fe r tiliz e d fe m a le s release m ore eggs, which hatch and tra v e l to th e m uscle tissu e o f th e host, and th e cycle continues. B a c te ria are resp on sible f o r a s ig n ific a n t p e rc e n t age o f b io lo g ic a lly caused fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. In ord e r to b e tte r p ro te c t fo o d du rin g s torage, p re p a ra tio n , and service, it is im p o rta n t to un de rsta nd th e c la s s ific a tio n s and p a tte rn s o f b a c te ria l g ro w th . Am ong th e d iff e r ent con ven tion s f o r the c la s s ific a tio n o f ba cteria , the m o st re le va n t to che fs are th e ir re q u ire m e n t fo r oxygen (a e ro b ic /a n a e ro b ic /fa c u lta tiv e ), th e ir e ffe c ts on people
(p a th o g e n ic /u n d e s ira b le /b e n e fic ia l/b e n ig n ), and th e ir
A lth o u g h coo kin g fo o d w ill d e s tro y many o f the
s p o re -fo rm in g a b ilitie s . A e ro b ic b a c te r ia req uire the
m icro o rg a n ism s pre sen t, careless fo o d handling a fte r
presence o f oxygen to grow. A na e ro b ic b a c te r ia do not
coo kin g can re in tro d u c e pathogens th a t w ill g ro w even
req uire oxygen and may even die when exposed to it.
m ore q u ickly w ith o u t c o m p e titio n fo r fo o d and space
F a c u lta tive b a c t e r ia are able to fu n c tio n w ith or w ith o u t
fro m th e m icro o rg a n ism s th a t cause spoilage. A lthough
oxygen. It is also im p o rta n t to know a t which te m p e ra
s h o rtc u ts and carelessness do not always re s u lt in fo o d -
tu re b a cte ria gro w best. C ertain b a cte ria are able to
borne illness, in a tte n tio n to d e ta il increases the risk o f
fo rm endospores, w hich serve as a means o f p ro te c tio n
c re a tin g an o u tb re a k th a t m ay cause serious illness or
ag ainst adverse circu m sta nce s such as high te m p e ra
even death. The variou s kinds o f expenses re la te d to an
tu re or de hyd ration . E ndospores allow an in dividu al
o u tb re a k o f fo o d -b o rn e illness, such as negative p u b lic
b a cteriu m to resum e its life cycle if fa vo ra b le co n d itio n s
ity and loss o f p re stig e , are blow s fro m which many res
should recur.
ta u ra n ts can never recover.
B acte ria re q u ire th re e basic c o n d itio n s fo r g ro w th and re p ro d u ctio n : a p ro te in source, re a d ily available m oistu re, and tim e . The higher th e am ount o f p ro te in in a fo o d , th e g re a te r its p o te n tia l as a c a rrie r o f a fo o d borne illness. The am o un t o f m o istu re available in a fo o d is m easured on th e w a te r a c tiv ity (Aw) scale. This scale runs fro m 0 to 1, w ith 1 re p re s e n tin g th e Aw o f water. Foods w ith a w a te r a c tiv ity above 0.85 s u p p o rt ba cte ria l g ro w th . A fo o d 's re la tiv e a c id ity o r a lk a lin ity is m easured on a scale known as pH. A m od era te pH — a value betw een 4.6 and 10 on a scale th a t ranges fro m 1 to 1 4 — is b e st f o r b a c te ria l gro w th , and m o st fo o d s fa ll w ith in th a t range. A dd in g highly acidic in g re d ie n ts, such as vin eg ar o r c itru s ju ice, to a fo o d can low er its pH and exte nd its s h e lf life. M any fo o d s p ro vid e th e th re e co n d itio n s necessary fo r b a c te ria l g ro w th and are th e re fo re con sid ered to be p o te n tia lly hazardous. M eats, p o u ltry , seafood, to fu , and da iry p ro d u cts (w ith th e exce ptio n o f some hard cheeses) are all ca te g o rize d as p o te n tia lly hazardous foo ds. Foods do n o t n e cessa rily have to be anim al based to con tain pro te in , however; veg etab le s and grains also contain pro te in . Cooked rice, beans, pasta, and p o ta to e s are th e re fo re also p o te n tia lly hazardous foo ds. There
AV O I D I N G CROSS C O N T A M I N A T I O N M any fo o d -b o rn e illne sses are a re s u lt o f u nsanitary handling p ro ced ures in th e kitche n. Cross con tam in ation occurs when disease-causing elem e nts or h a rm fu l sub stances are tra n s fe rre d fro m one co n ta m in a te d surface to another. E xce lle n t personal hygiene is one o f the be st de fen ses ag ainst cross co n ta m in a tio n . An em ployee who re p o rts fo r w o rk w ith a con tagiou s illne ss or an in fe cte d cu t on th e hand pu ts every cu sto m e r at risk. Any tim e th e hands com e in c o n ta c t w ith a possible source o f con ta m in a tio n (the face, hair, eyes, and m outh) the y m ust be th o ro u g h ly washed b e fo re c o n tin u in g any w ork. Food is a t g re a te s t ris k o f cross c o n ta m in a tio n d u r ing th e p re p a ra tio n stage. Ideally, sep ara te w o rk areas and c u ttin g boards should be used f o r raw and cooked fo o d s. E quipm ent and c u ttin g boards should always be cleaned and th o ro u g h ly sa n itize d betw een uses. A ll fo o d m ust be s to re d c a re fu lly to pre ven t c o n ta ct betw een raw and cooked item s. Place d rip pans beneath raw fo o d s. Do n o t handle re a d y -to -e a t fo o d s w ith bare hands. Instead, use s u ita b le u te n sils or single-use fo o d handling gloves.
are also o th e r u n like ly can didate s th a t are ripe f o r bac te ria l g ro w th such as sliced m elons, sp ro u ts, and g a rlican d-o il m ixtu re s. Food th a t con tain s pathogens in g re a t enough num bers to cause illness may s till look and sm ell norm al. D isease-causing m icro orga nism s are to o sm all to be seen w ith th e naked eye, so it is usually im p ossib le to a sce rta in visu a lly th a t fo o d is a d u lte ra te d . Because the m icro o rg a n ism s— p a rtic u la rly th e b a c te ria — th a t cause fo o d -b o rn e illne ss are d iffe re n t fro m th e ones th a t cause fo o d to spoil, fo o d may be a d u lte ra te d and s till have no " o ff" odor.
Cross contam ination icon
Hand-washing icon
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
PROPER HAND WASHING To reduce the chances of cross contamina
hands at the beginning of each shift and
tion, wash your hands often and correctly.
each new task, after handling raw foods,
Hands and forearms should be washed us
after going to the bathroom, sneezing,
ing soap and no°F/43°C water for no less
coughing, and so forth, and after handling
than twenty seconds. Be sure to wash your
any nonfood item.
KEEPI NG FOODS O U T O F T H E
th e y arrive in s a n ita ry co n d itio n s. Check the am bient
D ANGER Z ONE
te m p e ra tu re inside the d e live ry tru c k to see th a t it is
An im p o rta n t w eapon against pathogens is th e ob servance o f s tr ic t tim e and te m p e ra tu re co n tro ls. G enerally, th e disease-causing m icro orga nism s fo u n d in fo o d s, w ith th e exce ptio n o f E. coli 0 1 57 :H 7, need to be pre se n t in s ig n ific a n t q u a n titie s in o rd e r to make som e one ill. Once pathogens have e sta b lish e d the m se lve s in a fo o d source, th e y w ill e ith e r th riv e or be d e stro yed , depending upon how lo n g fo o d s are in th e danger zone. There are pathogens th a t can live a t all te m p e ra tu re ranges. For m o st o f tho se capable o f c a u s in g fo o d -b o rn e illness, the frie n d lie s t e n viro n m e n t pro vid es te m p e ra tu re s w ith in a range o f 41° to 1 3 5 °F /5 ° to 57°C — the danger zone. M o s t pathogens are e ith e r d e stro ye d or w ill n o t rep rod uce a t te m p e ra tu re s above 135°F /57°C . S to rin g fo o d a t te m p e ra tu re s below 41 °F /5 °C w ill slow o r in te rru p t the cycle o f re p ro d u ctio n . (It should also be
co rre c t. Check th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e p ro d u ct as w e ll as th e e x p ira tio n dates. V e rify th a t fo o d s have the req uire d go ve rn m e n t in sp e ctio n and c e rtific a tio n stam ps or tags. R andom ly sam ple ite m s and re je c t any goods th a t do n o t m ee t you r stan dard s. M ove th e ite m s im m e d ia te ly in to p ro p e r sto ra g e con ditions. R e frig e ra tio n and fre e z e r u n its should be m ain tain ed on a reg ular schedule and equipped w ith th e r m o m e te rs to a sce rta in th a t th e te m p e ra tu re rem ains w ith in a safe range. A lth o u g h in m o st cases c h illin g w ill n o t a ctu a lly k ill pathogens, it does d ra s tic a lly slow down re p ro d u ctio n . In general, re frig e ra to rs should be kept betw een 36° and 4 0 °F /2 ° and 4°C, b u t q u a lity is b e tte r m a intained i f c e rta in fo o d s can be sto re d a t the se spe c ific te m p e ra tu re s: M ea t and poultry: 32 ° to 3 6 °F /0 ° to 2°C
noted th a t in to x ic a tin g pathogens may be d e stro ye d du rin g cooking, b u t any to x in s th e y have produced are s till there.) When co n d itio n s are favo ra ble, b a cte ria can re p ro duce a t an a sto n ish in g rate. T here fore, c o n tro llin g the tim e du rin g w hich fo o d s rem ain in th e danger zone is
Fish and shellfish: 30° to 3 4 ° F /-1 ° to 1°C Eggs: 38° to 4 0 ° F /3 ° to 4 ° C Dairy products: 36° to 4 0 °F /2 ° to 4°C Produce: 40 ° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to 7°C
c ritic a l to th e p re ve n tio n o f fo o d -b o rn e illness. Foods le ft in the danger zone fo r a pe rio d longer than fo u r ■ hours are considered a d u lte ra te d . A d d itio n a lly , the
S ep ara te re frig e ra to rs f o r each o f the above c a t egories are ideal, b u t if necessary, a single u n it can be
fo u r-h o u r pe rio d is cum ulative, m eaning th a t th e m e te r continues running every tim e th e fo o d en te rs th e danger zone. Once th e fo u r-h o u r pe rio d has been exceeded, heating or coo lin g cannot reco ver foo ds.
receive and store foods safely
* /
0
It is not unheard o f fo r fo o d s to be d e live red to a fo o d -
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
70° F '2 1 ° C
41 °F 5° C
u
service o p e ra tio n already co n ta m in a te d . To pre ve n t th is fro m happening to you, in sp e ct all goods to be sure
135° F ' 57° C
135° F 57° C
Danger zone icon
41° F 5° C
Time and tem perature icon
d ivide d in to sectio ns. The fr o n t o f th e u n it w ill be the
unless you use th e tw o -s ta g e coo lin g m ethod. In the
w a rm e st area, th e back th e co ld e st. B e fo re s to rin g fo o d
f ir s t stage o f th is m ethod, fo o d s m ust be cooled to
in th e re frig e ra to r, it should be p ro p e rly cooled, sto re d
7 0 °F /2 1 °C w ith in tw o hours. In the second stage, foo ds
in clean con tain ers, w rapped, and labeled cle a rly w ith
m ust reach 4 1 °F /5 °C o r below w ith in an a d d itio n a l fo u r
the co n te n ts and date. S to re raw p ro d u cts below and
hours, f o r a to ta l c o o lin g tim e o f six hours. A ccording
away fro m cooked fo o d s to pre ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n
to FDA guidelines, using th e tw o -s ta g e m ethod quickly
by d ripp ing . Use th e p rin c ip le o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" (FIFO)
moves th e fo o d th ro u g h th e p a rt o f th e danger zone
when arra ng ing fo o d , so th a t o ld e r ite m s are in th e fro n t.
w here b a cte ria gro w m o st rapidly.
Dry sto ra g e is used f o r fo o d s such as canned goods,
The p ro p e r w ay to cool h o t liquids is to place them
spices, con dim ents, cereals, and sta p le s such as flo u r
in a m e ta l c o n ta in e r in an ice w a te r bath th a t reaches
and sugar, as w e ll as f o r som e fr u its and veg etab le s th a t
th e same level as th e liquid inside th e container. S tir the
do n o t re q u ire re frig e ra tio n and have low p e ris h a b ility .
liq u id in th e c o n ta in e r fre q u e n tly so th a t th e w arm er
As w ith all storag e, th e area m ust be clean, w ith p ro pe r
liq u id a t th e c e n te r m ixes w ith the coo le r liquid a t the
v e n tila tio n and a ir circ u la tio n . Cleaning supplies should
o u te r edges o f th e con tain er, bring ing down the overall
be sto re d in a sep ara te place.
te m p e ra tu re m ore rapidly. S em isolid and solid fo o d s should be re frig e ra te d in
hold cooked or ready-to-serve foods safely
fa ce exposure to th e cold air. For th e same reason, large
Keep h o t fo o d s h o t and cold fo o d s cold. Use h o t-h o ld in g
cuts o f m eat o r o th e r fo o d s should be cu t in to sm aller
e q uipm en t (steam ta b le s, double bo ile rs, bain-m aries,
p o rtio n s , cooled to room te m p e ra tu re , and w rapped be
heated cab in ets or draw ers, ch a fin g dishes, etc.) to keep
fo re re frig e ra tin g .
a single layer in shallow con tain ers to allow g re a te r su r
fo o d s a t or above 13 5 °F /5 7 °C . Do n o t use h o t-h o ld in g eq uipm en t fo r coo kin g or reh ea ting. Use co ld -h o ld in g
reheat foods safely
e q uipm en t (ice o r re frig e ra tio n ) to keep cold fo o d s a t or
When fo o d s are pre pa red ahead and then reheated, they
below a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 1 °F /5 °C .
should move th ro u g h th e danger zone as ra p id ly as pos sib le and be re h ea te d to a t le a st 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C fo r a m in i
cool foods safely
mum o f fifte e n seconds. As long as all p ro p e r cooling
One o f th e leading causes o f fo o d -b o rn e illness is
and re h e a tin g pro ced ures are fo llo w e d each tim e, fo o d s
im p ro p e rly cooled fo o d . Cooked fo o d s th a t are to be
may be cooled and re h ea te d m ore than once.
sto re d need to be cooled to below 41 °F /5 °C as qu ickly as possible. This should be co m p le te d w ith in fo u r hours,
Food should be b ro u g h t to th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re over d ire c t heat (burner, fla tto p , g rill, or conventional
SAFE HANDLING OF EGGS Today’s consumer is well aware of the po
at a temperature o f at least 14o°F/6o°C for
tential for food-borne illness through eggs.
a minimum of^Vi minutes. The bacteria
Therefore, we will look at basic rules for safe
are also killed instantly at i6o°F/yi°C.
handling of eggs and foods containing eggs. » All eggs in the shell should be free from cracks, leaks, and obvious holes.
Fried eggs or poached eggs with runny yolks should be prepared only at customer request.
» Raw egg yolks are a potentially hazardous
» Any food containing eggs must be kept at
food, due to the possible presence o f Sal
safe temperatures throughout handling,
monella enteritidis bacteria. Salmonella
cooking, and storage. Cooling and reheat
bacteria are killed when the eggs are held
ing must be done quickly.
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D KIT CHEN S A F E T Y
oven) or in a microwave oven. Do not use hot-holding
1 ASSESS THE HAZARDS. The firs t step in a HACCP
equipment for cooking or reheating. A steam table will
program begins with a hazard analysis of the menu
adequately hold reheated foods above 1 3 5°F /57°C , but
item or recipe. The process must be looked at by
it will not bring foods out of the danger zone quickly
designing a flow chart th a t covers every step in the
enough. Instant-read therm om eters should always be
period from "dock to dish."
used to check tem peratures.
2. ID E N T IFY T H E CRITICAL CONTROL POINTS.The next decision to make, a fte r you have established
thaw frozen foods safely
a flow diagram and identified potential hazards,
Frozen foods may be thawed safely in several ways.
is to identify the critical control points (CCPs). A
Never thaw food at room tem perature. The best (though
critical control point is the place in the utilization
slowest) method is to allow the food to thaw under re
of the food at which you have the ability to prevent,
frigeration. The food should still be wrapped and should
eliminate, or reduce an existing hazard or to pre
be placed in a shallow container on a bottom shelf to
vent or minimize the likelihood th a t a hazard will
prevent possible cross contamination.
occur. To quote the 1 9 9 9 FDA Food Code, a critical
If there is not tim e to thaw foods in the refrigerator,
control point is "a point or procedure in a specific
covered or wrapped food may be placed in a container
food system where loss of control may result in an
under running w ater of approxim ately 7 0 °F /2 1 °C or
unacceptable health risk." One of the most difficu lt
below. Use a stream of w ater strong enough to circulate
aspects of putting to gether a HACCP program is not
the w ater around the food.
to overidentify these critical control points.
Individual portions th at are to be cooked immedi ately may be thawed in a microwave oven. Liquids, small
3
ESTABLISH CRITICAL LIM ITS AND CONTROL
items, and individual portions may even be cooked w ith
MEASURES. Critical limits are generally standards
out thawing, but larger pieces th a t are cooked while still
fo r each critical control point; control measures
frozen become overcooked on the outside before they
are what you can do ahead of tim e to fac ilitate the
are thoroughly done throughout.
achievement of your critical limit. Many limits have already been established by local health depart
H A Z A R D A N A L Y S I S C R I T I C A L CON T RO L
ments. For example, an established critical limit
PO I N TS ( HACCP)
fo r the cooking step in preparing chicken is a final
HACCP stands for Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points, which is a scientific s ta te -o f-th e -a rt food safety program originally developed fo r astronauts. HACCP takes a systematic approach to the conditions th at are responsible fo r most food-borne illnesses. It is preven tive in nature, anticipating how food safety problems are most likely to occur and taking steps to prevent
internal tem perature of 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C . If you were to hold this chicken on the line before actual service, it would have to be kept at 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C to prevent the growth of pathogenic organisms. Holding would be another critical step in this process.
4. ESTABLISH PROCEDURES FOR MONITORING CCPs. Critical limits fo r each CCP have to be estab
them from occurring. The types of hazards of concern
lished to identify what is to be monitored. You must
are biological, chemical, and physical. Biological hazards
also establish how the CCP wilt be monitored and
are typically microbiological, which include bacteria,
who will do it. Monitoring helps improve the system
viruses, and parasites. Chemical hazards can be found in
by forcing identification of problems or faults at
the sanitation products used in the kitchen and physical
particular points in the process. This allows fo r more
hazards include glass, wood, stones, or other foreign
control or improvement in the system.
objects. The HACCP system has been adopted by both food processors and restaurants, as well as by the FDA and USDA. At this time, there are no particular mandates th at all foodservice establishments must use HACCP. However, instituting such a plan may prove advanta geous on many levels. The heart of HACCP is contained in the following seven principles:
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
5. ESTABLISH CORRECTIVE ACTION PLANS. A plan of action must be identified to deal with a deviation or substandard level th at occurs fo r a step in the pro cess. Specific corrective actions must be developed fo r each CCP, because each food item and its prepa ration can vary greatly from one kitchen to the next.
6. SET UP A RECORD-KEEPING SYSTEM. Keep docu mentation on hand to demonstrate whether the sys
to u ch th e p a rts o f fla tw a re th a t come in c o n ta c t w ith fo o d , and handle glassw a re by th e stem s or bases only.
tem is working. Recording events at CCPs ensures that
C arry plates, glasses, and fla tw a re in such a way th a t
critical limits are met and preventive monitoring is
fo o d c o n ta c t surface s are n o t touched. Serve all fo o d s
occurring. Documentation typically consists of tim e /
using th e p ro p e r utensils.
temperature logs, checklists, and sanitation forms.
7. DEVELOP A VERIFICATION SYSTEM. This step es
CLEANING AND SA NITIZING
tablishes procedures to ensure th at the HACCP plan
Cleaning re fe rs to th e rem oval o f soil or fo o d p a r
is working correctly. If procedures are not being
tic le s , whereas san itizin g involves using m o ist heat or
followed, make the necessary modifications to the
chem ical agents to k ill pa thog en ic m icroorganism s. For
system so th at they are.
e q u ip m e n t th a t can no t be im m ersed in a sink, o r fo r e q u ip m e n t such as knives and c u ttin g boards em ployed
SE R VI N G FOODS SA F EL Y The p o te n tia l to tra n s m it fo o d -b o rn e illne ss does not end when th e fo o d leaves th e kitche n. R e sta ura nt s e rv ers should also be in s tru c te d in good hygiene and safe fo o d -h a n d lin g pra ctices. Hands should be p ro p e rly w ashed a fte r using th e re stro o m , eating, sm oking, to u ch in g one's face o r hair, and handling m oney, d irty
du rin g fo o d p re p a ra tio n , use a w ip in g c lo th soaked in a d o u b le -s tre n g th sa n itiz in g s o lu tio n to clean and san itize betw een uses. Iodine, chlorine, or qu a te rn a ry ammonium com pounds are all com m on s a n itizin g agents. Sm all eq uipm en t, to o ls , pots, and ta b le w a re should be run th ro u g h a w a re-w a shing m achine o r washed m anually in a th re e -c o m p a rtm e n t sink. A fte r sanitizing, e q u ip m e n t and ta b le w a re should be allow ed to a ir-d ry
dishes, or soiled ta b le linens. W hen s e ttin g tab les, never
FOOD ALLERGIES The way your body reacts when you eat a
major food allergens must identify them
food to which you are truly allergic can be
on the label, so you must be certain that
dramatic or even dangerous. An allergic
you have read the label on prepared foods
reaction to a food may also occur rapidly.
thoroughly.
The skin may become itchy and develop
It is also important to realize that de
hives or welts. Some people experience
pending on an individual’s sensitivity, even
swelling of their throats or tongues. Severe
the very small amount of allergen left on
reactions require immediate medical
a piece of equipment and transferred to a
attention.
food could be enough to set off a reaction.
A true food allergy is nothing to fool around with. As a chef, you can’t assume that a request for “no garlic” indicates an unevolved palate or an unreasonable food dislike. For the individual suffering from a
Some of the most common food aller gies are to the following: » Peanuts » Tree nuts
food allergy, even the merest hint of garlic
» Milk
in his or her soup can set off a reaction.
» Eggs
People who suffer from an allergy will ask about the menu in regard to the food(s) that they cannot eat. It is impor
» Wheat » Soy
tant that you and your staff know the
» Fish
ingredients used in a dish. As of January
» Shellfish
2006 all packaged foods that contain
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT CHEN S A F E T Y
co m p le te ly, because using paper or c lo th to w e lin g could
to p re ve n t a p e st in fe s ta tio n . Take th e necessary steps
re s u lt in cross co n ta m in a tio n .
to p ro h ib it th e p o te n tia l ha rb o rin g o f various pathogens
C a reful s a n ita tio n procedures, p ro p e r handling o f
caused by pests.
foo ds, and a w e ll-m a in ta in e d fa c ility all w o rk to g e th e r
kitchen safety In a d d itio n to th e p re ca u tio n s necessary to guard
and you r s t a f f f o r guidance. In s tru c t your kitche n s t a f f
a g ainst fo o d -b o rn e illness, care m ust also be take n to
in the c o rre c t w ay to handle a g rill fire and grease fire .
avoid accid e n ts to s t a f f and guests. The fo llo w in g
(Above all, make sure everyone knows never to t r y to p u t
s a fe ty m easures should be p ra cticed .
o u t a grease, chem ical, o r e le c tric a l fire by th ro w in g w a te r on th e flam es.) Everyone should know where th e fire
HEALTH AND HY GI E N E M a intain good general health w ith reg ular checkups. Do n o t handle fo o d when ill. Keep any burn or break in the skin covered w ith a clean, w a te rp ro o f bandage. Cover
d e p a rtm e n t num ber is posted.
DRESS I NG FOR S A F E T Y The various p a rts o f the ty p ic a l c h e fs u n ifo rm play im
your face w ith a tissu e when coughing or sneezing and
p o rta n t roles in keeping w o rke rs safe as the y operate in
wash hands a fte rw a rd .
a p o te n tia lly dangerous en viro nm en t. The ch e fs ja cket,
Keep hair clean and neat, and con tain it if necessary. Keep fin g e rn a ils s h o rt and w e ll m aintained, w ith no p o l
fo r instance, is d o ub le-b rea ste d to crea te a tw o -la ye r clo th b a rrie r over th e che st to p ro te c t a gainst steam
ish. Keep hands away fro m hair and face when w o rkin g
burns, splashes, and spills. (The design also allow s the
w ith foo d.
ja c k e t to be re b u tto n e d on the o p p o site side to cover any spills.) The sleeves o f the ja c k e t are long to cover as
FIRE S A F E T Y It takes only a fe w seconds fo r a sim ple fla re -u p to turn in to a fu ll-scale fire . Grease fire s, e le ctrica l fire s, or even a w aste container fu ll o f paper catching fire when a match is carelessly tossed in to it are easy to imagine in any busy kitchen. A com prehensive fire sa fe ty plan should be in place and a standard p a rt o f all employee training. The f ir s t ste p to ta ke to avoid fire s is to make sure th a t the e n tire s t a f f is fu lly aware o f p o te n tia l fir e dan gers. Be sure th a t all e q u ip m e n t is up to code. Frayed or exposed w ire s and fa u lty plugs can all to o ea sily be the cause o f a fire . O verburdened o u tle ts are a n o th e r com mon c u lp rit. Have fir e e xtin g u ish e rs in easily accessible areas. P rop er m aintenance o f e xtin g u ish e rs and tim e ly inspec tio n s by your local fir e d e p a rtm e n t are v ita l. The exits fro m all areas o f the bu ild in g should be easy to fin d , clear o f any o b s tru c tio n s , and fu lly op e ra tio n a l. Thorough tra in in g is esse ntia l. Everyone should know w h a t to do in case o f a fire . Your g u ests re ly on you
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
much o f the arm as possible. Pants should be worn w ith o u t cu ffs, which can tra p h o t liquids and debris. Be it a ta ll w h ite to q u e or a fa v o rite baseball cap, chefs w ear hats to con tain th e ir hair and pre ven t it fro m fa llin g in to th e fo o d . H ats also help absorb sw e at fro m ove rhe ated brow s. N e ckerch iefs serve a s im ila r sw eata b so rb in g role. The apron is worn only to p ro te c t th e ja c k e t and pants fro m excessive staining. Side to w e ls are used to p ro te c t th e ir hands when w o rk in g w ith h o t pans, dishes, or o th e r eq uipm en t. Side to w e ls used to l i f t hot item s m ust be d ry in o rd e r to pro vid e p ro te c tio n . Hard le a th e r shoes w ith s lip -re s is ta n t soles are re c om m ended because o f th e p ro te c tio n th e y o ffe r and the s u p p o rt th e y give fe e t. Jackets, pants, aprons, side tow e ls, and shoes can h a rbo r b a cte ria , m olds, and p a rasite s. Use hot w ater, a good d e te rg e n t, and a san itize r, such as borax or chlo rine bleach, to rem ove grim e.
regulations, inspection, and certification Federal, s ta te , and local go ve rn m e n t re g u la tio n s w o rk
en viro n m e n t. A m ong OSHA's re g u la tio n s is th e m andate
to ensure th e w holesom eness o f th e fo o d th a t reaches
th a t all places o f e m p lo ym e n t m ust have an adequate
the public. Any new fo o d s e rv ic e business should c o n ta c t
and ea sily accessible firs t-a id k it on th e prem ises. In
the local he alth d e p a rtm e n t w ell in advance o f opening
a d d itio n , i f any o rg a n iza tio n has m ore than ten em ploy
to a sce rta in necessary legal re q u ire m e n ts. Some s ta te s
ees, re co rd s m ust be ke p t o f all accide nts and in juries
and local ju ris d ic tio n s o ffe r s a n ita tio n c e rtific a tio n
to em ployees th a t re q u ire m edical tre a tm e n t. OSHA
program s. R e gu latio ns and te s tin g v a ry fro m area to
co n ce n tra te s its e ffo r ts on p ro v id in g services where the
area. C e rtific a tio n is o fte n available th ro u g h c e rta in
ris k to w o rk e r s a fe ty is g re a te s t.
academ ic in s titu tio n s .
AMERICANS WITH D ISABILITIES ACT (ADA) THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADM IN ISTR ATION (OSHA)
This a ct is in te n d e d to make pu blic places accessible
OSHA is a fe d e ra l o rg a n iza tio n , in s titu te d in 1970,
c o n s tru c tio n o r re m o d e lin g done to a re s ta u ra n t m ust
th a t fa lls under th e p u rvie w o f th e H e alth and Human
m e e t ADA stan dard s. This includes lo c a tin g telephones
and safe f o r th o se w ith a v a rie ty o f d is a b ilitie s . Any new
S ervices A d m in is tra tio n . Its re g u la tio n s help em ployers
so th a t a person in a w h ee lcha ir can reach the m and p ro
and w o rke rs e sta b lish and m a intain a safe, h e a lth y w o rk
v id in g to ile ts w ith handrails.
drugs and alcohol in the workplace One fin a l to p ic th a t is o f g re a t im p o rta n ce in th e w o rk
are slowed, in h ib itio n s are low ered, and ju d g m e n t is
place is th e rig h t o f all w o rke rs to be fre e fro m the
im p aire d. The re s p o n s ib ilitie s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l w o rking
hazards posed by a co w o rke r w ho com es to w o rk under
in any kitch e n are to o g re a t to allow som eone s u ffe rin g
the in flue nce o f drugs o r alcohol. The abuse o f any sub
fro m a substance abuse pro blem to dim inish the resp ect
stance is a serious concern because it can a lte r or im p air
and tr u s t you have b u ilt w ith you r custo m e rs and s ta ff.
one's a b ility to p e rfo rm his o r her jo b . R eaction tim e s
ch a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
V
tools the pr< V J
id ingredients in essional kitchen PART 2
HHHHHI
. .
.
-
‘ 1
.........
:
. .
'
w m sm
. : "
;
-
k ‘\
*’ i
-K'v
i - ' i
-
"
■'
:
■.
:
7
'
: .
.
i :
, ,, ~-.r~.yJ ;
4n
■; t'r-*
;
:
:
V
: '
: : :: :
K '
..
:
:: "
- •■
••■ ■
:
V
r
£ ’- v v :
-;X
:
,
: l :v
: ■ '
■•
:■, •
.V
'
/
••vv-t I
'
mBBUBSmm B n n lH H R filH
H
U
H
;
equipment identification Tools, large and small, make it possible fo r chefs to do their jobs well; in fact, using the right tool for the job is one of the hallmarks of a professional. Equally important is the ability to handle and care for each tool, whether it is a cutting board, a knife, a mandoline, or a stockpot.
knives A ssem b lin g a personal co lle c tio n o f knives is one o f
5. Use an appropriate cutting surface. Cutting directly
the f ir s t ste p s in becom ing a p ro fe ssio n a l. Just as an
on metal, glass, or marble surfaces will dull and even
a r tis t or c ra fts p e rs o n g a th e rs to g e th e r th e to o ls neces
tually damage the blade of a knife. To prevent dulling,
sary fo r pa in ting, scu lp tin g , o r draw ing, you w ill need to
always use wooden or composition cutting boards.
se le ct knives th a t allow you to do your w o rk in th e s a f e st and m o st e ffic ie n t way. The knives you choose w ill becom e as im p o rta n t to you as you r own fin g e rs — qu ite lite ra lly an exte nsio n o f your own hands. 1. Handle knives with respect. Knives can be damaged if
6. Keep knives properly stored. There are a number of safe, practical ways to store knives, including in knife kits or rolls, slots, or racks, and on magnetized hold ers. Storage systems should be kept just as clean as knives.
they are handled carelessly. Even though good-quality knives are manufactured to last a lifetim e, they are still prone to damage if not properly taken care of. 2. Keep knives sharp. Learn the proper techniques for both sharpening and honing knives. A sharp knife not
THE P A R T S O F A KNIFE To se le c t a k n ife o f good q u a lity th a t f it s your hand w e ll and is su ita b le f o r th e in te nd ed task, you need a basic know ledge o f th e variou s p a rts o f a knife.
only performs better, but is safer to use because less effo rt is required to cut through the food. There are
blades
many ways to sharpen knives. Use a stone periodi
C u rrently, th e m o s t fre q u e n tly used m a te ria l f o r blades
cally, a sharpening machine, or send them to a profes
is high-carbon sta in le ss stee l. O th er m a te ria ls, such as
sional cutlery sharpener.
sta in le ss ste e l and carbon stee l, are also available.
3. Keep knives clean. Clean knives thoroughly immedi ately a fte r using them. Sanitize the entire knife, in cluding the handle, bolster, and blade, as necessary, so that the tool will not cross contaminate food. Do not clean knives in a dishwasher.
A ltho ug h carb o n -ste e l blades ta ke a b e tte r edge than e ith e r reg ular o r high-carbon sta in le ss steel, they ten d to lose th e ir sharpness quickly. Also, ca rb o n -ste e l blades w ill d is c o lo r when th e y come in to c o n ta c t w ith acidic foo ds. The m e ta l is b r ittle and can break easily under stress.
4. Use safe handling procedures for knives. There are
Stain le ss ste e l is much s tro n g e r than carbon stee l
standards of behavior that should be remembered
and w ill n o t d is c o lo r o r rust. It is d iff ic u lt to g e t a good
when using knives. When you are passing a knife, lay it
edge on a s ta in le s s -s te e l blade, although once an edge
down on a work surface so that the handle is extended
is e sta blished , it te n d s to la s t longer than th e edge on a
toward the person who will pick it up. Whenever you
c a rb o n -ste e l blade.
must carry a knife from one area of the kitchen to
H igh-carbon stain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly rece nt
another, hold the knife straight down at your side with
d e velopm e nt th a t com bines the advantages o f carbon
the sharp edge facing behind you, and let people know
s te e l and sta in le ss stee l. The higher percentage o f c a r
you are passing by with something sharp. When you
bon allow s the blade to ta ke and keep a keener edge.
lay a knife down on a work surface, be sure that no part of it extends over the edge of the cutting board
The m o st de sira ble ty p e o f blade fo r general use is ta p e r-g ro u n d , m eaning th a t th e blade has been fo rg e d
or worktable. Also, do not cover the knife with food,
o u t o f a single she et o f m e ta l and has been ground so
towels, equipment, and the like. Be sure the blade is
th a t it ta p e rs sm o o th ly fro m th e spine to th e c u ttin g
facing away from the edge of the work surface. Do not
edge, w ith no a p p a re n t beveling.
attem pt to catch a falling knife.
H o llo w -g ro un d blades are m ade by com b in ing tw o sheets o f m etal. The edges are then beveled or flu te d .
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
knives
tangs
TIP
The ta n g is a c o n tin u a tio n o f the blade th a t exte nds in to th e knife 's handle. Knives used f o r heavy w ork, such as c h e fs knives o r cleavers, should have a fu ll tang; th a t is, th e ta n g is a lm o s t as long as th e e n tire handle. A ltho ug h blades w ith p a rtia l tan gs are n o t as durable, th e y are acce ptab le on knives th a t w ill be used less fre q u e n tly . R a t-ta il tan gs are much n a rrow e r than th e spine o f the blade and are encased in th e handle.
handles
CUTTING EDGE
A p re fe rre d m a te ria l f o r k n ife handles is rosew ood, because it is e x tre m e ly hard and has a very t ig h t or
SPINE
fin e grain, w hich helps p re ve n t s p littin g and cracking. Im p re g n a tin g wood w ith p la s tic p ro te c ts th e handle fro m damage caused by con tinu ed exposure to w a te r and d e te rg e n ts. The handle should f i t y ou r hand com fo rta b ly . A c o m fo rta b le f i t w ill reduce fa tig u e . HEEL
rivets
BO LSTER
M e ta l riv e ts are usually used to secure th e ta n g to the handle. The riv e ts should be co m p le te ly sm oo th and lie flu sh w ith th e surface o f th e handle. HANDLE
bolsters
RIVETS
In some knives, th e re is a c o lla r o r shank, known as a b o lste r, a t th e p o in t w here th e blade m ee ts th e handle. This is a sign o f a w e ll-m a d e kn ife . The b o ls te r helps to balance th e k n ife and p ro te c t th e hand fro m accide ntal slips. Some knives m ay have a c o lla r th a t looks like a b o ls te r b u t is a ctu a lly a sep ara te piece a tta ch e d to th e handle. These knives te n d to com e a p a rt easily and
PARTS OF A KNIFE
should be avoided.
c h a p t e r s » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
45
types of knives A wide array of knives is
knife, boning knife, paring knife, and sheer—but also a
available to suit specific functions. As you continue to
number of special knives. This list is intended as a guide
work in professional kitchens, your knife kit will grow
to the knives that may be found in nearly any well-
to encompass not only the basics—chef’s or French
outfitted knife kit.
SCIMITAR
SERRATED SUCERS (painted and round tipped)
C LEA V ER
U TILITY KNIVES
F LE X IB LE SLICER
BONING KNIFE FRENCH KNIVES
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
FLU TED -EDG E SAN TO KU
PARING KNIFE
TOURNE KNIFE
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
chef’s knife/ French knife
Blade 8 - 1 2 inches long
A ll-p u rp o s e kn ife : a v a rie ty o f chop ping, slicing, and m incing chores
utility knife
Sm aller, lig h te r c h e fs k n ife w ith a blade
V arious c u ttin g chores
knives
Common Kitchen Knives
5 - 8 inches long
paring knife
Blade 2 - 4 inches long
P aring and trim m in g ve g e ta b le s and fr u its
boning knife
Blade is th in n e r than th a t o f c h e fs kn ife , ab ou t 6 inches long, and rig id
S e p a ra tin g raw m ea t fro m bone
filleting knife
S im ila r in shape and size to a boning kn ife , b u t th in n e r and w ith a m ore f le x ible blade
F ille tin g fis h
slicer
Long blade w ith a round o r p o in te d tip ; blade may be fle x ib le or rig id , ta p e re d or round, o r have a flu te d edge
S lic in g cooked m eat; also s u ita b le fo r s lic in g fo o d such as sm oked salm on
cleaver
Heavy enough to cu t th ro u g h bones; re c ta n g u la r blade; va rie s in size a c c o rd
C hopping
ing to its in te n d e d use
tourne knife
S im ila r to a pa rin g kn ife ; has curved blade to fa c ilita te c u ttin g curved s u r fa ce s o f to u rn e e d ve g e ta b le s
T ourneeing veg etab le s
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
47
S H A R P E N I N G AND HONI NG
1. Assem ble your m iseen place.
The key to th e p ro p e r and e ffic ie n t use o f any k n ife is
2. Anchor th e stone to keep it fro m slipping as you work.
m aking sure th a t it is sharp. A k n ife w ith a sharp blade
Place carborundum or diam ond stones on a damp
always w o rks b e tte r and m ore s a fe ly because it cuts
clo th or rubber mat. A trip le -fa c e d stone is m ounted
easily. K nife blades are given an edge on a sharpening
on a ro ta tin g fram ew ork th a t can be locked in to posi
ston e and m aintained betw een sharpenings by honing
tio n so th a t it cannot move.
the m w ith a steel. S harpening ston es are e sse ntia l to the p ro p e r m ain
3. Lubricate th e stone w ith m ineral oil or water. Be con s is te n t about th e typ e o f lu brica nt you use on your
tenance o f knives. Sharpen th e blade by passing its edge
stone. W ater or m ineral oil helps reduce fric tio n as
over th e ston e a t a 2 0 -d e g re e angle. The g r it — th e de
you sharpen your knife. The heat caused by fric tio n
gree o f coarseness or fine ne ss o f the stone's su rfa c e —
may not seem sig n ifica n t, b u t it can eventually harm
abrades th e blade's edge, c re a tin g a sharp c u ttin g edge.
th e blade.
When sharpening a kn ife , always begin by using the coa rsest surface o f the stone, and then move on to the
4
fin e r surfaces.
require. The du lle r th e blade, th e coarser th e g rit
A ston e w ith a fin e g r it should be used fo r boning knives and o th e r to o ls on w hich an e sp e cia lly sharp edge is req uire d. M o s t ston es may be used e ith e r dry or
should be. 5
Run th e e n tire edge over the surface o f the stone, keeping th e pressure even on th e knife. Hold the knife
m oiste ne d w ith w a te r or m ineral oil.
a t th e co rre c t angle as you w ork. A 20-degree angle
C arborundum stones have a fin e side and a m edium
is suitable fo r c h e f’s knives and knives w ith sim ilar
side. Arkan sas ston es are available in several grades
blades. You may need to adjust th e angle by a fe w
o f fine ne ss. Some co n sist o f th re e ston es o f varying
degrees to p ro p e rly sharpen th in n e r blades such as
degrees o f fine ne ss m ounted on a wheel. Dia m ond-
slicers, o r th ic k e r blades such as cleavers.
im p re g n a te d stones are also available. A lth o u g h the y are expensive, som e chefs p re fe r the m because the y
Begin sharpening the edge on th e coarsest g r it you
6
fe e l the se stones give a sha rpe r edge.
Alw ays sharpen th e blade in th e same directio n. This ensures th a t th e edge rem ains even and in proper
O pinion is s p lit ab ou t w h e th e r a k n ife blade should
alignm ent.
be run over a ston e fro m heel to tip or tip to heel. M o st chefs do agree th a t con sisten cy in the d ire c tio n o f
7
th e stro k e used to pass th e blade over th e ston e is
on coarse stones. A fte r about te n strokes on each
im p o rta n t.
side o f th e blade, move on to the next fin e r g rit.
B e fo re using a stone, be sure th a t it is p ro p e rly s ta bilized. No m a tte r which m ethod you use, keep th e f o l low ing g uidelines in mind:
Make strokes o f equal num ber and equal pressure on each side o f th e blade. Do not oversharpen th e edge
8
Finish sharpening on th e fin e s t stone then wash and dry th e k n ife th o ro u g h ly b e fore using or sto rin g it.
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
knives
Sharpening method one
1.
Use fo u r fin g e rs o f th e g u id ing hand to m aintain
co n sta n t pressure on th e knife .
2.
3.
Draw th e k n ife o f f th e sto n e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.
Draw th e k n ife across th e ston e gently.
Sharpening method two
1 .
Push th e blade over th e stone's surface, using the
g u id ing hand to keep pre ssure even.
2.
3.
Push th e k n ife o f f th e ston e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.
C ontinue to push th e e n tire le ng th o f th e blade over
th e stone.
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
49
steels a steel should be used both immediately after
Steels come with coarse, medium, and fine grains,
sharpening the blade with a stone and also between
and some are magnetic, which helps the blade maintain
sharpenings to keep the edge in alignment. The length
proper alignment and also collects metal shavings. A
of the steel’s working surface can range from three inches
guard or hilt between the steel and the handle protects
for a pocket version to over fourteen inches. Hard steel
the user, and a ring on the bottom of the handle can be
is the traditional material for steels. Other materials,
used to hang the steel.
such as glass, ceramic, and diamond impregnated sur
When using a steel, hold the knife almost vertically, with the blade at a 20-degree angle, resting on the inner
faces, are also available.
side of the steel. Draw the blade along the entire length of the steel.
MULTISIDED OIL STONE (TRI-STONE)
DIAM OND-IM PREGNATED STONE
CER AM IC STONE
FLAT STEEL
HARD STEEL
DIAMONDIM PREGNATED STEEL
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
CER A M IC STEELS (BLU E AND WHITE)
GA r+ (D Keep the following guidelines in mind:
this could produce a curve in the edge. Keep the knife
» Allow yourself plenty of room as you work, and stand
blade a t a 20 -d e g ree angle to the steel.
with your weight evenly distributed. Hold the steel with
» Use a light touch, stroking evenly and consistently.
your thumb and fingers safely behind the guard.
Lay the blade against the steel; don’t slap it. Listen for a light ringing sound; a heavy grinding sound indicates
» Draw the blade along the steel so th a t the entire edge
th a t too much pressure is being applied.
touches the steel. W ork in the same direction on each side of the blade to keep the edge straight.
^
» Repeat the stroke on the opposite side of the edge to properly straighten the edge. If a blade requires
» Be sure to keep the pressure even to avoid wearing
more than five strokes per side on a steel, it probably
away the m etal in the center of the edge. Over tim e,
should be sharpened on a stone.
Steeling method one
1.
S tart w ith the knife nearly vertical, with the blade
resting on the steel's inner side.
J .
Keep the blade in contact with the steel until the tip
is drawn o ff the steel. Repeat the process with the blade resting on the steel’s outer side.
2.
Rotate the w rist holding the knife as the blade
moves along the steel in a downward motion.
Steeling method two
1.
Hold the steel in a near-vertical position with the
3.
Finish the firs t pass by drawing the blade all the way
tip resting on a nonslippery surface. S ta rt with the heel
along the shaft up to and including the tip. Repeat the
of the knife against one side of the steel.
entire action, this tim e with the blade against the steel’s other side.
2.
Maintain light pressure and use an arm action, not a
w rist action, to draw the knife down the shaft of the steel in a smooth continuous motion.
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
51
hand tools
The object of using a specialized tool
is to make the task at hand easier and more efficient. A
numerous to mention here. Particular preparations will dictate to the chef what hand tools are necessary and
number of small hand tools other than knives belong
individual chefs will have their own particular likes and
in a knife kit. The potential number and kind are too
dislikes.
WIDE PERFORATED O FFSET S PATU LA
FISH S PATU LA
FRENCH ROLLING PINS
S W IVEL-BLAD ED PEE LER S
S AU CE W HISK
O FFSET PA LETTE KN IVES
B A LL-BE A R IN G ROLLING PIN
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
t r p
Common Hand Tools
p Q -
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
rotary peeler/ swivel-bladed peeler
Blade m ay be m ou nted h o riz o n ta lly or v e rtic a lly on th e handle. Blade is t y p i cally 2 - 3 inches long
P eeling skin fro m ve g e ta b le s and
o
fru its . S w ivel a ctio n accom m odates c o n to u rs o f in g re d ie n ts
in
parisienne scoop/ melon bailer
May have one scoop or tw o o f d iffe re n t sizes, between ’A and 3A inch in d iam e te r
S coo ping o u t balls o r ovals fro m veg e ta b le s and fr u its
kitchen fork
A fo rk w ith tw o long tin e s a p p ro xim a te ly 4 - 6 inches long
T esting doneness o f braised m eats and veg etab le s; liftin g fin is h e d item s to th e ca rvin g board o r plate; holding an ite m being carved in place
palette knife/ metal spatula
F le xib le ro u n d -tip p e d to o l; may be f la t o r o ffs e t. Blade is be tw ee n 4 and 5 inches long and V i- V i inch w ide
r+
In th e kitc h e n and bakeshop, sp re a d in g fillin g s and glazes; placing garnishes; p o rtio n in g ; and a v a rie ty o f o th e r fu n c tio n s
whisks
Balloon w h isks are sphere shaped and have th in w ire s to in c o rp o ra te a ir when m aking foa m s. Sauce w h isks are n a r ro w e r and fre q u e n tly have th ic k e r w ires
Beating, blending, and w h ipp in g
offset spatula
Blade is chisel edged, be tw ee n 9 and 10
Turning or lift in g fo o d s on g rills, b ro ile rs , and g rid d le s
inches long and 3 - 4 inches w ide, s e t in a s h o rt handle
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF ROLLING PINS Rolling pins are made from hard, tight-
The two basic types of rolling pins are
grained woods, which prevent fats and
the French-style pin and the rod-and-bear-
flavorings used in rolled doughs from pen
ing (ball-bearing) pin. The French pin is a
etrating the pin. Rolling pins should never be
long cylinder of wood rolled over the dough
washed with water. Doing this could ruin the
with the palms of the hands. The second
integrity of the pin by warping or distorting
type is heavier and wider. It has a length wise shaft at the center of the wooden cyl
the grain of the wood. Always use a dry cloth to wipe the pin clean immediately after use.
inder through which runs a metal rod with
Damage to the surface of the pin will relay
two wooden handles at either end.
imperfections to the dough being rolled.
c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
53
measuring equipment
Among the most common and useful measuring
Measurements
are determined in many different ways in a professional
equipment are the following: measuring pitchers (to
kitchen. This makes it important to have equipment for
measure liquid volumes); spring, balance beam, and
liquid and dry volume measures calibrated for both the
electronic scales (to weigh ingredients for preparation
U.S. and metric systems, as well as a variety of scales for
and finished items for portion control); instant-read,
accurate measurement by weight.
candy, and deep-fat thermometers (to measure internal temperatures); and measuring spoons.
SPRING SCA LE
B A LA N C E B EA M SC A LE
ELECTRONIC SCA LE
M EASUR ING PITCHERS
M EASUR IN G SPO O NS C A N D Y/D EEP-FA T TH ER M O M ETER
INSTANT-READ T H ER M O M ET ER S
PRO BE TH ER M O M ETER
54
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
Sieves and strainers
pureeing food. The openings in the cone can vary in size from very large to very small. The colander, available in
ties from dry ingredients. They are also used to drain or
a variety of sizes, is a stainless-steel or aluminum sieve,
puree cooked or raw foods. The delicate mesh of some
with or without a base, used to strain or drain foods. The
strainers is highly vulnerable to damage; never drop these
ricer is a device with a pierced hopper in which cooked
into a pot sink, where they could be crushed or torn. The food mill is a type of strainer used to puree soft
food, often potatoes, is placed. A plate on the end of a lever pushes the food through the holes in the hopper.
foods. A flat, curving blade is rotated over a disk by a
Cheesecloth is light, fine-mesh cotton gauze, frequently
hand-operated crank. Most professional models have
used with or in place of a fine conical sieve. It is essen
interchangeable disks with holes of varying fineness. The
tial for straining some sauces. It is also used for making
drum sieve ( tamis) consists of a tinned-steel, nylon, or
sachets. Before use, cheesecloth should be rinsed thor
stainless-steel screen stretched in an aluminum or wood
oughly in hot water and then cold water to remove any
frame. A drum sieve is used for sifting or pureeing. The
loose fibers. Cheesecloth also clings better to the sides of
conical sieve ( chinois) is used for straining and/or
bowls, sieves, and so forth when it is wet.
sieves and strainers
sieves and strainers
are used to sift, aerate, and help remove any large impuri
FOOD M ILL
CO NICAL S IEV ES
BLA N D ER
RICER
CHEESECLO TH
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
55
pots, pans, and molds Various m aterials and com binations o f m aterials are used
o f heat, b u t it is o fte n used because it has o th e r advan
in the con stru ction o f pots, pans, and molds. Because fo rm
tages, includ in g easy m aintenance. O th er m etals, such
and fu n ctio n are closely related, it is im p o rta n t to choose
as alum inum or copper, are o fte n sandw iched w ith s ta in
the pro pe r equipm ent fo r the ta sk a t hand. Pots m ade o f c op pe r tra n s fe r heat ra p id ly and evenly b u t because d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith cop pe r w ill a f fe c t th e co lo r and co n siste n cy o f m any foo ds, copper
less ste e l to im prove heat conduction. S tain le ss stee l w ill n o t re a ct w ith foo ds; f o r exam ple, w h ite sauces w ill rem ain pure w h ite o r ivory. B lu e-stee l, b la ck-ste e l, p re sse d -ste e l, o r ro lle d -
p o ts are g e ne rally lined. (An e xce p tio n is a copper pan
ste e l pans are all prone to d is c o lo ra tio n b u t tra n s m it
used to cook jam s, je llie s , cho colates, and o th e r high-
heat very rapidly. These pans are g e ne rally th in and are
sugar item s, o fte n known as a p re se rvin g pan.) G reat
o fte n p re fe rre d f o r sau tein g foo ds.
care m ust be take n n o t to scratch linings made o f s o ft
A lum inum is also an e xce lle n t co n d u cto r o f heat.
m e ta l such as tin . If th e linin g becom es scratche d or
However, it is a s o ft m e ta l th a t wears down quickly.
w ears away, it may be re p a ire d by re tin n in g . Copper also
When a m e ta l spoon o r w hip is used to s tir a w h ite or
te n d s to disco lo r quickly; its p ro p e r upkeep requires
lig h t-c o lo re d sauce, soup, or s to c k in an alum inum pot,
s ig n ific a n t tim e and labor.
th e fo o d m ay ta ke on a gray color. Alum inum also rea cts
Cast iron has th e ca p a city to hold heat w e ll and
w ith acidic fo o d s. A nodized or tre a te d alum inum ten ds
tra n s m it it very evenly. The m e ta l is som ew hat b r ittle
no t to rea ct, and is one o f the m o st p o pu lar m etals fo r
and m ust be tre a te d c a re fu lly to p re ve n t p ittin g , sca r
p o ts used in c o n te m p o ra ry kitchens.
ring, and rustin g. Cast iron coa ted w ith enam el is easier
N o n stick coa ting s on pans have some use in p ro fe s
to clean b u t loses som e o f its n o n stick p ro p e rtie s and
sional kitche ns, e sp ecially f o r re s ta u ra n ts th a t o ffe r
cannot w ith s ta n d as high a te m p e ra tu re as u n tre a te d
fo o d s cooked w ith less f a t and oil. However, the se su r
ca st iron. S tain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly p o o r c o n d u cto r
face s are n o t as s tu rd y as m e ta l linings.
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF COPPER PANS This technique for cleaning and shining
agent, and the flour provides the binder.
copper cookware has been used by chefs
Coat copper surfaces completely with this
for many years and is still favored because
paste, then vigorously massage them clean
it is fast, inexpensive, and efficient. Mix
with a cloth. Clean the interior cooking
equal parts of flour and salt, and then add
surfaces as you would other pots and pans,
enough distilled white vinegar to form a
with a gentle scouring pad and cleanser.
paste. The vinegar will react with the cop
NOTE: Delicate copper serving dishes
per to erase any discoloration caused by oxidation and heat. Any other acid, such
and utensils should be cleaned with a com mercial cream or polish without abrasives,
as lemon juice, would work equally well,
to avoid scratching.
but white vinegar is typically the most eco nomical choice. The salt acts as a scouring
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
stockpot/marmite
Large po t, ta lle r tha n it is w ide, w ith s tra ig h t sides; m ay have a s p ig o t
saucepan
Has s tra ig h t or s lig h tly fla re d sides and a sin gle long handle
sauce pot
S im ila r to a s to c k p o t in shape, a lth ou gh n o t as large; has s tra ig h t sides and tw o loop handles
rondeau
W ide, fa irly shallow p o t w ith tw o loop handles. W hen m ade fro m cast iron, f r e q u e n tly known as a "g risw o ld "; may have a sin gle s h o rt handle ra th e r than tw o loop handles. A b ra sie r is sim ila r; may be square in ste a d o f round
sauteuse/saute pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith slo p in g sides and a sin gle long handle
sautoir/fry pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith s tra ig h t sides and a single long handle
omelet pan/ crepe pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith ve ry sh o rt, s lig h tly slo p in g sides; m o st o fte n made o f ro lle d or blue s te e l
bain-marie/double boiler
N e stin g p o ts w ith single long handle. "B a in -m a rie " also re fe rs to s ta in le s s -s te e l co n ta in e rs used to hold fo o d in a stea m ta b le
griddle
F la t w ith no sides; may be b u ilt d ire c tly in to th e stove
fish poacher
Long, n a rrow lid d e d p o t w ith s tra ig h t sides; includes a p e rfo ra te d rack f o r holding fis h
steamer
P air o f sta cke d p o ts; lid d e d to p p o t has a p e rfo ra te d b o tto m . Also, bam boo basket w ith t ig h t - f it t in g lid; can s it in a w ok
‘
pots, pans, and molds
Stovetop Pots and Pans
SEASONING PANS Chefs who use pans made of cast iron or
one hour. Remove the pan from the oven
rolled steel often season their pans to seal
and let it cool. Wipe away any excess oil
the pores. Seasoning preserves the cooking
with paper towels. Repeat the procedure
surface and essentially creates a nonstick
every so often to renew the seal. To clean a
coating. To season a pan, pour enough cooking oil into the pan to evenly coat the
seasoned pan, use a bundle of paper towels to scour salt over the surface of the pan un
bottom to a depth of about Va in/6 mm.
til the food particles have been removed.
Place the pan in a 3OO0F/i49°C oven for
c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
57
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
some applications, but these surfaces are not as sturdy
Pots and pans used on the stovetop may be made from
as metal, so another choice for nonstick cookery would
a variety of materials, but they must be able to with
be cast iron. Blue-steel and black-steel, pressed-steel,
stand direct heat from a flame. A poorly produced pot
or rolled-steel pans are often preferred for sauteing be
will have weak spots and will warp. Pans may be made
cause of their quick response to changes in temperature. When choosing a pot or pan, consider the following
of many different materials, and selection in large part weighs on preference. Heat conductivity and evenness
information:
of heat transfer are important to consider as well as the
l.
maintenance of the pan; for example, copper is great
Be familiar with the capacity of various pots, pans, and
for conductivity but requires significant time and labor
molds. If too many pieces of meat are crowded into a
for proper upkeep. Nonstick coatings may be useful for
sauteuse, for instance, the food will not brown properly.
Choose a size appropriate to the food being cooked.
S A U CE POT WITH LID RONDEAU
S A U CEPAN WITH LID
NONSTICK S AU TEU SE
TWO NESTED STAIN LESSSTEEL SAU T EU SE S
58
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
that the pot transmit heat evenly and hold it well than
drippings from the meat) could scorch. If a small fish is
respond rapidly to changes in heat.
poached in a large pot, the cuisson (cooking liquid) will
3.
not have the proper intensity of flavor.
niques. Avoid subjecting pots to heat extremes and rapid
2. Choose material appropriate to the cooking tech
changes in temperature (e.g., placing a smoking-hot pot
Use proper handling, cleaning, and storing tech
nique. Experience has shown, and science has verified,
into a sinkful of water) because some materials are prone
that certain cooking techniques are more successful
to warping. Other materials may chip or even crack if al
when used with certain materials. For instance, sauteed
lowed to sit over heat when they are empty or if they are
foods require pans that transmit heat quickly and are sen
handled roughly. Casseroles or molds made of enameled
sitive to temperature changes. Braises, on the other hand,
cast iron or steel are especially vulnerable.
require long, fairly gentle cooking; it is more important
STOCKPOT WITH LID
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
If the sauteuse is too large, however, the fond (Maillard
BAM BO O S T EA M ER
FISH PO ACHER
SAUTOIR WITH LID
c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
59
pans for oven cooking
Pans used in
they transfer heat more evenly. Regarding heat conduc
ovens are produced from the same basic materials used
tivity, some metals heat faster than others. Aluminum
to make stovetop pots and pans. Glazed and unglazed
heats quickly but is susceptible to burning food if it is a
earthenware, glass, and ceramics are also used. The heat
light gauge. On the other hand, stainless steel is a poor
of the oven is less intense than that of a burner, making
conductor of heat but works best for baking in a lighter
it possible to use these more delicate materials without
gauge. Tin is a good conductor of heat, while materials
risk of cracking or shattering. Metal pans are available
such as glass, ceramic, and earthenware hold heat well
in several gauges (gauge refers to the thickness of the
but transfer it poorly.
metal). Heavy-gauge pans are usually preferred because
SPRIN G FO RM PAN STACKED FROM BOTTOM TO TOP: M UFFIN TIN, LO OSE-BOTTOM ED TART PAN, C A K E PANS
B U N D TPA N
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
LO AF PAN
pots and pans for oven coo
ROASTING PAN
PATE EN CROUTE MOLD
P U L LM A N LO A F PAN
GRATIN DISHES. RA M EK IN S (NESTED IN THE GRATIN DISH)
F LE X IB LE SILICONE MOLD
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
6l
Oven Pans and Molds 1 NAME(S)
roasting pan
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
R e cta ng ula r pan w ith m ed iu m -h ig h sides;
R o astin g or baking
com es in va rio u s sizes
sheet pan
V ery sha llo w re c ta n g u la r pan; m ay be fu ll or h a lf size
Baking; storag e
hotel pan/ steam table pan/ chafing dish
R e cta ng ula r pans, a va ila ble in a w ide range o f sizes. C hafing dishes and h o te l pans are usually o f sta n d a rd sizes, so m o st o f the m w ill f i t to g e th e r p ro p e rly
O ccasionally f o r p re p a rin g fo o d s b u t m ore o fte n to hold cooked fo o d s in stea m ta b le s, h o t boxes, o r e le c tric o r gas steam ers. F re q u e n tly used to hold m eats being m a rin a te d and f o r re frig e ra te d fo o d storag e
pate mold
terrine mold
Deep re c ta n g u la r m e ta l m old, usually has hinged sides to fa c ilita te rem oval o f the pate. S pecial shapes may be ava ila ble
C ooking pate en cro u te
M ay be re c ta n g u la r or oval, w ith a lid.
C ooking o r m o ld in g te rrin e s
T ra d itio n a lly e a rth en w are , may also be enam eled cast iron
gratin dish
S hallow oval baking dish; ceram ic, enam eled cast iron, o r enam eled ste e l
ramekin
Round, s tra ig h t-s id e d ceram ic dish; comes in variou s sizes
Baking g ra tin s
Baking s o u ffle s; som etim es fo r m olding fro ze n s o u ffle s; sauce cups; baked custard; baked or chilled pud dings; g ra tins; and a v a rie ty o f o th e r uses
timbale mold
Sm all m e ta l o r ceram ic m old
M o ld in g in d ivid u a l p o rtio n s o f fo o d s
flexible silicone mold
A vaila ble in d iffe r e n t sizes and shapes
F orm ing fo o d s in to a v a rie ty o f shapes; can be used a t high te m p e ra tu re s and f o r fre e z in g
cake pan
S tra ig h t sided; a va ila ble in va rio u s sizes and shapes. Can be used in a w a te r bath
Baking cakes, cheesecakes, and som e ro lls
springform pan
S im ila r to cake pan, b u t w ith sep a ra te b o t to m . Sides have s p rin g to release f o r easy rem oval
Baking cakes
loose-bottomed tart pan
S hallow pan w ith rem o vab le b o tto m . Sides may be flu te d or s tra ig h t, and are g e n e r a lly s h o rte r tha n th o se o f pie pans. M ay be round, rectan gu lar, or square
B aking ta rts
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
pie pan
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
Round pan w ith fla re d sides; d e e p e r than
Baking pies and quiches
t a r t pan; a va ila ble in a v a rie ty o f sizes
loaf pan
Deep pan, usually rectan gu lar. Sides may
Baking breads and m eatloaves
be s tra ig h t o r s lig h tly fla re d
Pullman loaf pan
R e cta ng ula r pan w ith lid; pro du ces f la tto p p e d loaves
B aking s p e c ia lty bread
Pan w ith sm all, round de pre ssion s, w hich
B aking m u ffin s and cupcakes
'
muffin tin
com e in d iffe re n t sizes
Bundt pan tube pan
Deep, round pan w ith tu b e in th e center. M ay have o rn a te shapes
C re a tin g a s p e c ific shape o f cake,
Deep, round pan w ith s tra ig h t sides and tu b e in th e center. Some are s im ila r to s p rin g fo rm pans, w ith rem o vab le sides
B aking angel fo o d cake, pound cakes, o r c h iffo n cakes
pots, pans, and molds
NAME(S)
in clu d in g c h iffo n and pound cakes
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
63
large equipment When working with large equipment, safety precautions
CONVECTION STEAMER Steam is generated in a
must be observed and proper maintenance and cleaning
boiler, then piped to the cooking chamber, where
done consistently.
it is vented over the food. Pressure does not build
1. Obtain proper instruction in the machine’s safe operation. 2. First turn o ff and then unplug electrical equipment before assembling it or breaking it down.
up in the unit; it is continuously exhausted, which means the door may be opened at any tim e w ithout danger of scalding or burning. DEEP-FAT FRYER This consists of a gas or electric heating elem ent and a large stainless-steel res
3. Use all safety features: Be sure that lids are secure,
ervoir th a t holds the fa t. A th erm ostat allows the
hand guards are used, and the machine is stable.
user to control the tem perature of the fat. S tain
4. Clean and sanitize the equipment thoroughly a fter each use. 5. Be sure that all pieces of equipment are properly re assembled and left unplugged a fte r each use. 6. Report any problems or malfunctions promptly, and alert coworkers to the problem.
less-steel w ire mesh baskets are used to lower and lift foods into and out of the fat.
R AN GE S A N D OVENS The stovetop is known as the range; the oven is usually below the range. However, there are a number of varia tions on this standard arrangement. Gas or electric ranges are available in many sizes and with d ifferen t
KE T TL ES A N D S T E A M E R S Kettles and steamers enable a chef to prepare large amounts of food efficiently, since the heat is applied over a much larger area than is possible when a single burner is used. Cooking times are often shorter than when using the stovetop.
combinations of open burners, flatto ps (not to be con fused with griddle units), and ring tops. Open burners and ring tops supply direct heat, which is easy to change and control. Flattops provide indirect heat, which is more even and less intense than direct heat. Foods th at require long, slow cooking, such as stocks, are more effectively cooked on a flatto p. Small units known as
STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE This freestanding
candy stoves or stockpot ranges have rings of gas jets
or tabletop ke ttle circulates steam through the
or removable rings under a flatto p, allowing for excel
double-sided walls, providing even heat. Units
lent heat control. Ovens cook foods by surrounding them
vary; they may tilt, may be insulated, and may have
with hot air, a gentler and more even source of heat than
spigots or lids. Available in a range of sizes, these
the direct heat of a burner.
kettles are excellent fo r producing stocks, soups, and sauces.
OPEN-BURNER RANGE This type of range has individual g rate-style burners th at allow fo r easy
TILTING KETTLE This large, relatively shallow
adjustm ent of heat.
freestanding unit (also known as a Swiss brasier, tiltin g skillet, or tiltin g fry pan) is used fo r braising, stewing, and sauteing large quantities of meats or vegetables at one tim e. M ost tiltin g kettles have lids, allowing fo r steaming as well. PRESSURE STEAMER W ater is heated under pressure in a sealed com partm ent, allowing it to reach tem peratures above the boiling point,
FLATTOP RANGE This consists of a thick plate of cast iron or steel set over the heat source. Flattops give relatively even and consistent heat but do not allow fo r quick adjustm ents of tem perature. RING-TOP RANGE This is a fla tto p with plates th at can be removed to widen the opening, supplying more or less heat.
2 1 2 °F /1 0 0 °C . Cooking tim e is controlled by auto
INDUCTION COOKTOP This relies on the magnetic
matic tim ers, which open the exhaust valves at the
attractio n between the cooktop and steel or cast
end.
iron in the pan to generate heat. The cooktop itself remains cool. Reaction tim e is significantly fas ter
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
P i -i
than fo r traditional burners. Pans containing cop
as a setting in a gas or electric oven. If the broiler
per or aluminum may not be used.
is contained as a separate unit, it is known as a
CONVECTION OVEN Fans force hot air to circulate around the food, cooking it evenly and quickly. Some convection ovens have the capacity to intro duce moisture. C O NVEN TIO NAL/DECK OVEN The heat source is located on the bottom , underneath the deck (floor) of the oven. Heat is conducted through the deck to the cavity. Conventional ovens can be located below a range top or as separate shelves arranged one above another. The la tte r are known as deck
salamander and is used prim arily to finish or glaze
£ SMOKERS
R EF R I G E R A T I O N E Q U I P M E N T
consist of two to four decks, although single-deck
storage must be evaluated and coordinated. All units should be maintained property, which means regular and thorough cleaning. W ALK-IN This is the largest style of refrigeration
and convection oven. It can be used in steam mode,
unit and usually has shelves arranged around the
hot-air convection mode, or h eat/s te am (combi)
walls. It is possible to zone a walk-in to maintain
mode.
appropriate tem perature and humidity levels for
generate microwave radiation, which cooks or re heats foods very quickly. Some models double as convection ovens.
GR ID DL E S AND G R I L L S Two other range/oven features, the griddle and the grill, are part of the traditional commercial foodservice setup. GRIDDLE Sim ilar to a fla tto p range, a griddle has a heat source located beneath a thick plate of metal, generally cast iron or steel. The food is cooked di rectly on the griddle surface. G R ILL/B R O ILE R /S A LA M A N D E R In a grill, the heat source is located below a rack; in a broiler or salamander, the heat source is above. Some units
rD
evenly.
Maintaining adequate refrigerated storage is crucial to
MICROWAVE OVEN This oven uses ele ctricity to
13
operated at either cool or hot tem peratures. Smokers generally have racks or hooks th at allow foods to smoke
any foodservice operation; therefore, the menu and the
either gas or electricity, is a combination steam er
i—*■
A true smoker will tre a t foods with smoke and can be
instead of on a wire rack. Deck ovens normally
COMBI OVEN This piece of equipment, powered by
n>
foods.
ovens, and the food is placed directly on the deck
models are available.
QTQ ft)
storing various foods. Some walk-ins are large enough to accomm odate rolling carts fo r addi tional storage. Some have pass-through or reach-in doors to fa c ilita te access to frequ en tly required items. W alk-ins may be situated in the kitchen or outside the facility. REACH-IN A reach-in may be a single unit or part of a bank of units, available in many sizes. Units w ith pass-through doors are especially helpful for the pantry area, where cold items can be retrieved by the w ait s ta ff as needed. O N-SITE REFRIGERATION R efrigerated drawers or undercounter reach-ins allow ingredients to be held on the line at the proper tem perature. PORTABLE REFRIGERATION A refrigerated cart can be placed as needed in the kitchen.
have adjustable racks th a t allow the food to be
DISPLAY REFRIGERATION Display cases are gen
raised or lowered to control cooking speed. Some
erally used in the dining room fo r desserts, salads,
grills burn wood, charcoal, or both, but units in
or salad bars.
restaurants are o ften either gas or electric fired, with ceramic "rocks” th at create a bed of coals to produce the e ffe c t of a charcoal grill. Broilers radi ate an intense heat from above and can be found
Chapter 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
65
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment Grinders, slicers, and pureeing equipment all have the potential to be extremely dangerous. As these tools are essential for a number of operations, all chefs should be able to use them with confidence.
FOOD PRO CESSO R
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
BLENDER
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment
IMM ERSION BLEN D ER
STANDING M IXER AND ATTACHM ENTS
c h a p t e r s » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
67
Grinding, Slicing, Mixing, and Pureeing Equipment NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
blender
C o nsists o f a base th a t houses th e m o t o r and a rem o vab le lid d e d ja r w ith a
and e m u ls ify in g fo o d s
E xce lle n t f o r pureeing, liq u e fyin g ,
p ro p e lle r-lik e blade in its b o tto m . Speed s e ttin g s f o r m o to r are in base. Jars made o f sta in le ss stee l, p la stic, o r glass; a va ila ble in several cap a citie s
food processor
immersion blender/ hand blender/stick blender/burr mixer
M o to r housed in base, s e p a ra te ly fro m rem o vab le bowl, blade, and lid. M ay have
G rinding, pureeing, blending, em u l sify in g , crushing, and kneading. W ith
e xtra d isks f o r spe cia lize d c u ttin g
special disks: slicing, ju lie nn ing , and shre dd ing
Long, sle n d e r one-piece m achine; like an in v e rte d blender. Top houses m o to r, w hich ge n e ra lly runs a t only one
Pureeing, liq u e fy in g , and e m u ls ify in g large ba tches o f fo o d d ire c tly in the co o kin g vessel
speed. P la stic handle w ith o n /o ff sw itch exte n d s fro m to p o f housing. S ta in le sss te e l d riv e s h a ft exte n d s fro m m o to r and ends w ith blade, w hich is im m e rsed in th e fo o d
vertical chopping machine (VCM)
food chopper/ buffalo chopper
M o to r in base is p e rm a n e n tly a tta ch e d to bow l w ith in te g ra l blades. As a s a fe ty p re ca u tio n , hinged lid m ust be locked in place b e fo re u n it w ill op e ra te
G rinding, w h ip p in g em u lsifyin g , blending, crushing large q u a n titie s
Food is placed in a ro ta tin g bow l th a t passes under a hood, w h ere blades chop th e fo o d . Some have hoppers or fee d
C hopping large q u a n titie s o f foo d; w ith special disks: slicin g or g ra tin g
o f fo o d
tu b e s and in te rch a n g e a b le disks. A v a il able in flo o r and ta b le to p m odels
food sheer/ meat slicer
C a rrie r moves fo o d back and fo r th
mandoline
Blades o f high -carbo n stee l. Levers ad ju s t blades to achieve cu t and th ickn e ss de sire d. Guard p ro v id e s s a fe ty
S licing, ju lie n n in g , c u ttin g g a u fr e tte s
stand mixer
E le c tric m achine has large d e tacha ble bow l o f v a ryin g ca p a citie s (5 -q u a rt, 1 0 -q u a rt, 2 0 -q u a rt, 4 0 -q u a rt, etc.). A t ta ch m e n ts: whip, paddle, dough hook. Bow l is locked in place and a tta c h m e n t ro ta te s th ro u g h b a tte r o r dough
M ixing, be atin g, w h ipp in g, kneading
meat grinder
M ay be fre e s ta n d in g m achine o r a tta c h m e n t f o r a sta n d in g m ixer. Should have disks o f va ry in g sizes; in general w ill have a fe e d tra y and a pusher
G rinding; s tu ffin g sausage casings (w ith a tta c h m e n t)
S licin g fo o d s in even thickn esse s
ag ainst c irc u la r blade, g e n e ra lly made o f carbon ste e l. Guard pro vid es s a fe ty
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
and b a to n n e ts
meat, poultry, and game identification For most restaurants, the purchase, preparation, and service of meats is one of the most expensive areas of the business— but also one of the most potentially profitable. In order to get the most value out of the meats purchased, it is imp to understand how to select the right cut for a particular cooking method.
CHAPTER 6
meat basics The m eat, p o u ltry , and game cuts th a t a re s ta u ra n t
V acuum -packed m eats can be sto re d d ire c tly in the
should buy w ill depend upon th e na ture o f the p a rtic u la r
package, as long as it has n o t been pu ncture d or ripped.
op era tion. A re s ta u ra n t fe a tu rin g p re d o m in a n tly a la
Once unw rapped, m eats should be rew rapped in a ir-p e r
m in ute p re p a ra tio n s — e sp e cia lly one w ith a p re p o n d e r
m eable paper, such as butcher's paper, because a irtig h t
ance o f g rille d or sauteed ite m s — w ill need to purchase
c o n ta in e rs p ro m o te b a c te ria l g ro w th th a t could re s u lt in
e x tre m e ly te n d e r (and m ore expensive) cuts. A re s ta u
spoilage or co n ta m in a tio n .
ran t th a t uses a v a rie ty o f tech niq ue s may be able to use
V a rie ty m eats, p o u ltry , and uncured po rk pro du cts,
some le ss-te n d e r c u ts — fo r exam ple, th e veal shank in a
w hich have s h o rt s h e lf lives, should be cooked as soon
braise such as osso buco.
as po ssib le a fte r th e y are received. M e a t sto re d a t the
M ea ts can be purchased in a num ber o f fo rm s and at
p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re and under o p tim a l co n d itio n s can
va ryin g degrees o f readiness to cook. The ch e f should
be held f o r several days w ith o u t no tice a b le loss o f qual
con sid er several fa c to rs when de cid ing w h a t ty p e o f
ity. M e a t can also be fro z e n f o r longer storage.
m ea t to buy. S torage cap acity, th e e q u ip m e n t req uire d to pre pa re a menu item , th e kitch e n s t a f fs a b ility to fa b ric a te cuts, and th e volum e o f m ea t re q u ire d m ust
» REFRIGERATED: 28 ° TO B 2 °F /-2 °T O 0°C » FROZEN: 0° TO 2 0 ° F /- 1 8 ° TO -7°C
all be take n in to con sid e ra tio n . Once th is in fo rm a tio n is evaluated, th e ch e f can d e te rm in e w h e th e r it is m ore econom ical to purchase large pieces, such as w hole legs o f veal, or p re fa b ric a te d m eats, such as veal already cut in to a to p round, o r p re c u t scaloppini. M e a ts should be checked fo r w holesom eness and freshness. Cut surface s should appear m o ist, b u t not shiny. The m eat should have a good color, which varies by ty p e as w ell as by cut. The m ea t should also sm ell ap pealing. Packaged m eats should arrive w ith th e packag ing in ta c t w ith no pu ncture s or tea rs. The ta b le s accom panying th e fo llo w in g se ctio n s con tain key pieces o f in fo rm a tio n ab ou t beef, veal, pork, and lamb, ad ap te d fro m The M e a t Buyer's Guide by the N o rth A m erican M e a t P rocessors A sso cia tio n (NAMP), includ in g ite m num bers as assigned by th e N AM P and an average range in size f o r a cut. A p p ro p ria te cooking m ethods fo r v ariou s cuts have also been included.
STORAGE
I N S P EC TI ON AND GR AD IN G G overnm ent in sp e ctio n o f all m eats is m andatory. Insp ection s are re q u ire d a t various tim e s: a t th e slaugh te rh o u se (a n te m o rte m ) and again a fte r b u tch e rin g (po stm o rte m ). This is done to ensure th a t th e anim al is fre e fro m disease and th a t th e m ea t is w holesom e and f i t f o r human con sum p tion. Insp ection is a service paid fo r by ta x dollars. Some s ta te s have re linq uished the re s p o n s ib ility fo r in sp e ctin g m eats to fe d e ra l in spe cto rs. Those sta te s th a t s till a d m in is te r th e ir own in sp e ctio n s o f m eat m ust at le a st m eet, if n o t exceed, the acce pted fe d e ra l standards. Q u a lity grading, however, is n o t m andatory. The U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re (USDA) has developed s p e c ific sta n d a rd s to assign grades to m eats and tra in s graders. The packer may, however, choose n o t to hire a USDA g ra de r and may fo rg o g ra ding in fa v o r o f the use o f an in-house brand name instead. The costs involved
M eats, p o u ltry , and game should be w rapped and sto re d
in gra ding m ea ts are absorbed by th e in dividu al m eat
under re frig e ra tio n . W hen possible, th e y should be held
packer, n o t th e taxp ayer, since th is process is volun ta ry.
in a separate unit, o r a t le a st in a sep a ra te p a rt o f the cooler. They should always be placed on tra y s to pre ven t the m fro m d rip p in g o n to o th e r fo o d s o r th e flo o r. The ch e f should sep ara te d iffe re n t kinds o f m eats;
Depending upon th e p a rtic u la r animal, th e grader w ill consider overall carcass shape, ra tio o f fa t to lean, ra tio o f m eat to bone, color, and m arbling o f lean flesh. The grade placed on a p a rticu la r carcass is then applied to all
f o r exam ple, p o u ltry should n o t com e in to co n ta c t
the cuts fro m th a t animal. In beef, only a sm all percentage
w ith beef, or p o rk p ro d u c ts in to c o n ta c t w ith any o th e r
o f m eats produced is graded prim e. Choice and select
m eats. This w ill p re ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n .
are m ore o fte n available. Grades lower than select are
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
p o u ltry , and som e game are cu s to m a rily used fo r kosher
im portance to the re sta u ra n t (or re ta il) industry.
p re p a ra tio n s. Kosher m eats are bu tchere d fro m ani
Some m eats may also receive yie ld grades. This
m als s la u g h te re d by a shohet, o r by a spe cia lly train ed
grade is o f th e g re a te s t s ig n ifica n ce to w holesalers. It
rabbi. The anim al m ust be k ille d w ith a single s tro k e o f a
in dica tes th e am o un t o f salable m eat in re la tio n to the
kn ife , the n fu lly bled. A ll th e veins and a rte rie s m ust be
to ta l w e ig h t o f th e carcass. B utch ers re fe r to th is as
rem oved fro m th e m eat. This process w ould e sse n tia lly
"cu ta b ility." In o th e r w ords, it is a m easure o f th e yie ld o f
m u tila te th e fle s h o f loins and legs o f b e e f and veal;
edible m eat fro m each pound o f th e carcass.
th e re fo re , th e se are g e n e ra lly n o t sold as kosher.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF MEAT
OF F AL
A fte r sla ug hterin g, in spe ction, and grading, the anim al
O ffa l can b e s t be de scrib ed as th e ed ib le by-p ro d u cts
carcass is cu t in to m anageable pieces. Sides are p re
o f a m ea t carcass. Exam ples include organ m eats such
pared by m aking a cu t down th e length o f th e backbone.
as th e liver, kidney, he art, brain, trip e , ce rta in glands,
Each side is cu t in to tw o pieces to make qu a rte rs, d iv id
and in te s tin a l tra c ts . In a d d itio n , th e cheeks, ta il, and
ing th e sides betw een s p e c ific ve rte b ra e . Saddles are
ton gue are p a rt o f th e o ffa l cate gory. O ffa l is generally
made by c u ttin g th e anim al across th e belly, again a t a
inexpensive b u t re q u ire s some s k ill to cook properly.
s p e c ifie d p o in t. The exa ct stan dard s f o r in d ivid u a l an i
Organ m eats are com posed o f fib e rs th a t are d iffe re n t
mal typ e s govern w here th e carcass is to be divided.
fro m th o se o f lean m uscle. M em branes, blood vessels,
The ne xt ste p is to cu t th e anim al in to w h a t are re
and con ne ctive tissu e s need to be rem oved fro m livers
fe rre d to as p rim a l cuts. There are u n ifo rm stan dard s fo r
and kidneys. Organ m eats, such as th e live r and kidneys,
beef, veal, pork, and lam b prim als. These large cuts are
are high in iron, w hich tra n s la te s in to rich flavo r. The ta il
the n fu rth e r broken down in to sub prim a ls. S ubprim als
has some m ea t and a lo t o f collagen and is ty p ic a lly used
are g e ne rally trim m e d and packed as fo o d se rvice , value
fo r rich braises.
added, o r HRI (H o te l, R estaurant, and In s titu tio n ) cuts.
In m any cu ltu re s, o ffa l is considered a delicacy.
There m ay be even m ore fa b ric a tio n o r b u tch e rin g done
Some o ffa l is con sid ered th e e p ito m e o f high cuisine.
in o rd e r to pre pa re steaks, chops, roa sts, o r ground
An exam ple w ould be th e fa tte n e d duck o r goose liver
m eat. These cuts are re fe rre d to as p o rtio n c o n tro l cuts.
known as fo ie gras. This m ea t has a con sisten cy th a t
The am o un t o f b u tc h e rin g done in packing plan ts
resem bles b u tte r and a d is tin c tiv e flavo r. Foie gras is
has increased over th e pa st several years. W hile it is s till
an exce p tio n to th e general rule th a t organ m eats are
possible to purchase hanging m eat, m o st o p e ra tio n s w ill
inexpensive and can com m and a high price. A n o th e r ex
buy w h a t is re fe rre d to as boxed m eat. This in dica tes
ce p tio n to th is rule is th e sw e etbre ad, or thym us gland,
th a t th e m eat has been fa b ric a te d to a s p e c ific p o in t
o f veal. W hen p ro p e rly prepared, th is s o ft-s tru c tu re d
(prim al, subprim al, o r re ta il cut), packed in Cryovac,
gland can be eaten w ith a fo rk . S w e etbre ad s are in high
boxed, and shipped f o r sale to purveyors, butchers,
dem and and w a rra n t a high cost.
chain re ta il o u tle ts , and so fo rth .
meat basics
generally used fo r processed m eat and are o f no pra ctical
Organ m ea ts te n d to be highly perishable and th e re fo re m ust be used fre sh , w ith in a w eek o f slaughter, or
KOSHER MEATS Kosher m eats are s p e cia lly sla ug htered , bled, and fa b ric a te d in o rd e r to com p ly w ith re lig io u s d ie ta ry
purchased fro ze n . Be sure to keep fro z e n ite m s below 32 ° and -4 ° F /0 ° and -1 8 °C to ensure th e fo rm a tio n o f sm all ice c ry s ta ls and m inim ize damage.
laws. In th is cou ntry, only b e e f and veal fo re q u a rte rs ,
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
71
beef Beef is essential to the foodservice industry,
the tougher the meat. Specialty beef such as Kobe beef
especially in the United States. A significant source of
from Japan, Limousin beef from France, and Certified
protein, beef is featured in an array of classic and con
Angus, natural, organic, and dry-aged beef from the
temporary dishes. This expensive product demands spe
United States are also available. The eight grades of beef, in order of highest to low
cial care and training. Utilizing as much of each cut to maximize the yield is an important practice to follow. Cattle used for the beef industry are typically steers (castrated males) over one year old and heifers (female
est quality, are as follows: Prime, Choice, Select, Stan dard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Prime is usually reserved for restaurants and butcher shops.
cows) not required for breeding. The older the bovine,
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the round: 1. hind shank, 2. shank stew, 3. top round, 4. to p round tie d as a roast, 5. marrow bones
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
c
r
a> rc>
i- h
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the loin: 1. short loin, 2. porterhouse steak cut from the sho rt loin, 3. top sirloin bu tt, 4. flan k steak, 5. tenderloin PSMO, 6. trim m ed ten der loin, 7. tenderloin steaks, 8. boneless s trip loin, 9. po rtio n -cu t s trip loin steaks
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
73
beef, continued
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the rib: 1. short loin, 2. po rtion -cut short ribs, 3, rib eye lip on, 4. po rtion -cut rib steaks
74
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
c
r
n>
1 -h
These cuts are from the primal cut known as the chuck: 1. trim m ed shoulder clod, 2. top blade, 3. shoulder stew, 4. chuck roll, 5. brisket, 6. s k irt steak, 7. trim m ed s k irt steak, 8. tripe , 9. oxtail
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
75
Bovine Beef Primal Cuts COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARYUSES
SHANK
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
HEEL .
B raising, s te w in g
SUBPRIMAL
round primal cut
O fte n bra ise d or stew ed; prepa red as goulash
KNUCKLE
Braising, ro a s tin g
O fte n p re pa red as kabobs
TOP ROUND
R oasting, pan fry in g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a roulade, bra cio le, or London b ro il
EYE ROUND
R oasting, bra isin g
P ot ro a ste d ; oven ro a s te d and sliced th in ; carpaccio; fon due
BOTTOM ROUND
B raising
O fte n p re pa red as a p o t ro a st or sau erb raten
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as stea ks
TENDERLOIN, PSMO PORTION-CUT
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n p re p a re d as Chateaubriand, to u rn e d o s, m edallions, or f ile t m ignon
FLANK STEAK
B roilin g, g rillin g , bra isin g
loin primal cut SIRLOIN (TOP SIRLOIN BUTT)
O fte n p re pa red as London b ro il, b u tte r flie d , o r s tu ffe d
STRIP LOIN, 175 BONE-IN (SHELL); 180 BONELESS
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t or stea ks (New York s trip steak)
SHORT LOIN
B roilin g, g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as p o rte rh o u se or T -bone ste a k
BONE-IN EXPORT RIB, 109D E X P O R T STYLE
R oasting, g rillin g
O fte n pre p a re d as prim e rib roa st, bone-in rib stea k, or cow boy stea k
BONELESS LIP-ON RIB, 112A
R oasting, g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre p a re d boneless as rib eye ro a s t o r D elm onico stea ks
SHORT RIBS
B raising
O fte n braised, s lo w -ro a ste d , or
rib primal cut
barbecued
chuck primal cut SQUARE-CUT CHUCK
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d as chuck ro a s t or ground
SHOULDER CLOD
Braising, ro a stin g , stew ing , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as ste a ks or ground
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
|
c
r
rD l- h ) COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
PLATE
B raising
O fte n pre p a re d as s h o rt ribs
BRISKET
B raising
O fte n pre p a re d corned and as
5UBPRIMAL
!
market forms
p a stra m i FORESHANK
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red ground
S au tein g
O fte n p re p a re d as fo rc e m e a t
B raising or slow sim m e rin g in a b ro th or
S lo w -b ra ise d or stew ed
variety meats (offal) LIVER TRIPE
red sauce KIDNEYS
S te w in g
O fte n baked in to a pie
TONGUE
S im m e ring
O fte n pre p a re d sm oked
OXTAILS
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n slow braised as a stew , soup, or ragoO t
INTESTINES
D epends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used as casing f o r sausage
HEART
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d in ste w or added to dishes in chopped fo rm
BLOOD
Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used to p re p a re coa gu late sausages
loin
round l
sirloin 1
sho rt loin 1
rib 1
chuck 1
foreshank Beef skeletal structure
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
77
Beef HRI Cuts WEIGHT RANGE
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
103
Rib (prim al)
3 5 -4 0
109
Rib, ro a s t-re a d y
1 8 -2 2
109D
Rib, ro a s t-re a d y , cover o ff, s h o rt-c u t
1 6 -1 8
11 2
Rib, rib eye ro ll
8 -1 0
11 2 A
Rib, rib eye ro ll, lip on
1 1 -1 3
113
Chuck, sq u a re -c u t (prim al)
7 9 -1 0 6
11 4
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod
1 5 -2 1
11 6A
Chuck, chuck ro ll, tie d
1 5 -2 1
120
B riske t, boneless, de ckle o f f
1 0 -1 2
121C
P late, s k irt s te a k (diaphragm ), o u te r
2 and up
121D
P late, s k irt stea k, inner
3 and up
123
Rib, s h o rt ribs
3 -5
1 2 3B
Rib, s h o rt ribs, trim m e d
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
166B
Round, rum p and shank p a rtia lly rem oved, handle on (steam sh ip )
5 2 -7 0
167
Round, knuckle
9 -1 3
1 6 7A
Round, knuckle, peeled
8 -1 2
1 69
Round, to p (inside)
1 7 -2 3
1 70
Round, b o tto m (gooseneck)
2 3 -3 1
170A
Round, b o tto m (gooseneck), heel o u t
2 0 -2 8
17 1B
Round, b o tto m , o u ts id e round f la t
1 0 -1 6
171C
Round, eye o f round
3 and up
172
Loin, fu ll loin, trim m e d (prim al)
5 0 -7 0
174
Loin, s h o rt loin, s h o rt-c u t
2 2 -2 6
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
(POUNDS)
c
r
fD a>
WEIGHT RANGE
PRODUCT NAME
(POUNDS)
175
Loin, s trip loin, bone-in
1 8 -2 0
180
Loin, s trip loin, boneless
7 -1 1
181
Loin, s irlo in
1 9 -2 8
18 4
Loin, to p s irlo in b u tt, boneless
1 2 -1 4
185A
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, fla p , boneless
3 and up
185B
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, ba ll tip , boneless
3 and up
185D
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, tr i- t ip , boneless, d e fa tte d
3 and up
189
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in
189A
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle on, d e fa tte d
5 -6
190
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, d e fa tte d
3 -4
190A
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, skinned
3 -4
191
Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in
2 -4
193
Flank ste a k
1 and up
134
B e e f bones
A m o u n t as sp e cifie d
135
Diced b e e f
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
13 5 A
B e e f f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as sp e cifie d
13 6
G round b e e f
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
B e e f p a tty m ix
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
-10
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
79
veal
Veal is the flesh of a young calf, generally four
to five months old. Because of its young, delicately ten
consume a special diet and are the standard type of veal used today; this veal is up to four months old.
der flesh, it is considered by some to be the finest meat
Veal should be selected by color; it should be light
available. Classical preparations include, but are not
pink in color and tender. The five USDA grades of veal,
limited to, osso buco, vitello tonnato, cordon bleu, veal
in order of highest to lowest quality, are Prime, Choice,
piccata, and veal scaloppine.
Good, Standard, and Utility. Because the overall ratio of
Fine veal calves are fed mother’s milk or formula. Milk-fed veal is up to twelve weeks old and is believed
meat to bone is less than a full-grown bovine, there are proportionately fewer cuts of veal.
to have the most tender meat. Formula-fed calves
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. bottom round, 2. shank, 3. osso buco, 4. to p round cap off, 5. po rtion -cut veal cutlets, 6. trim m ed loin, 7. po rtion -cut chops
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
<1
P
These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. rack (chop-ready), 2. trenched rack chops, 3. breast, 4. trim m ed shoulder clod, 5. stew, 6. sweetbreads, 7. liver, 8. kidney
Chapter 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
8i
Bovine Veal Primal Cuts SUBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
SHANK
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d osso buco
HEEL
S te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
TOP ROUND; KNUCKLE; BOTTOM ROUND;
D ry he at saute, ro a stin g , ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red as scaloppine, c u tle ts (V 2 in /1 cm), sc h n itz e l [ lA in /6 mm),
leg primal cut
EYE ROUND; BUTT
em ince, escalope, and kabobs. Usable trim o fte n used f o r ste w in g or p re pared as fo rc e m e a t
loin primal cut TENDERLOIN; SIRLOIN
R oasting, sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as m edallions, n o is e tte s , and as a w hole ro a st
TR IM M ED LOIN;
R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), sauteing, b ro ilin g
O fte n p re pa red as chops (bone-in or
SPLIT BONELESS LOIN (STRIP LOIN)
boneless), m edallions, scaloppine, em ince, escalope
hotel rack primal cut RACK; SPLIT CHOPREADY RACK;
R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
FRENCHEDRACK
O fte n p re pa red as fre n ch e d or crown, chops (bone-in, french ed ), and m e d a l lions, scaloppine, em ince, escalope
square-cut shoulder primal cut SQUARE-CUT SHOULDER, BONELESS
R o astin g (boneless), stew ing , b ra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
SHOULDER CLOD
S tew ing , ro a stin g , bra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
BREAST
B raising, ro a s tin g
O fte n pre p a re d s tu ffe d , b u tte rflie d , o r as bacon
FORESHANK
B raising, s te w in g
O fte n p re pa red ground
CHEEKS
B raising, ste w in g
Used in braises and stew s
TONGUE
B raising, sim m e ring
O fte n used in th e p re p a ra tio n o f te rrin e s
market forms
variety meats (offal)
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
j
< ( I
p 5UBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
SWEETBREADS
Poaching the n sau tein g
O fte n served as an a p p e tiz e r o r hors d'oeuvre b u t can be served as an en tre e
LIVER
O fte n served sau teed w ith onions
S au tein g
and o th e r fla v o rin g s such as sherry, herbs, o r lem on HEART
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red in ste w or added to dishes in chopped fo rm
KIDNEYS
S au tein g
O fte n fo u n d sauteed; served in a pie
BRAINS
Poaching the n sa u te in g
O fte n fo u n d in sauteed dishes b u t can also be deep frie d
S im m e ring
FEET
M o s t o fte n used in m aking s to c k o r in cla ssica l cold fo o d p re p a ra tio n s like Zam bone
Veal skeletal structure
Chapter 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
83
Veal HRI Cuts
84
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
306
H o te l rack, 7 ribs
1 0 -1 2
30 6 B
C hop -re ad y rack
4 -5
307
Rack, rib eye, boneless
3 -4
309
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, bone-in (prim al)
2 0 -3 6
30 9 B
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, boneless
1 9 -3 3
30 9D
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, neck o ff, boneless, tie d
1 8 -3 2
310A
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless
4 -7
31 0 B
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless, ro a s t
4 -7
312
Foreshank
2 -4
313
B rea st
6 -1 0
331
Loin (prim al)
1 0 -1 8
332
Loin, trim m e d
8 -1 4
344
Loin, s trip loin, boneless
3 -6
346
Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in , d e fa tte d
I-IV 2
334
Leg (prim al)
4 0 -7 0
336
Leg, shank o ff, boneless
1 1 -1 9
337
Hindshank
2 -4
337A
Shank, osso buco
13
363
Legs, TBS, 4 p a rts
2 4 -3 2
363A
Leg, TBS, 3 p a rts
1 6 -2 4
349
Leg, to p round, cap on
8 -1 2
349A
Leg, to p round, cap o f f
6 -8
39 5
Veal f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d
39 6
G round veal
A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
T 3 O
Pork, the meat of domesticated pigs, is among
Because USDA grading is not required for pork and
the most popular meat sold in the United States. Typi
federal grading must be paid for, packers will often use
cally high in fat, pigs have been specifically bred over
their own grading system. This does not necessarily
many generations to produce leaner cuts of meat. Pigs
mean that various cuts of pork are not of good qual
are commonly slaughtered under one year of age to en
ity, for the grading systems used by major packers are
sure a tender product.
clearly defined and are generally reliable. In the tables
Although quality grades are less frequently assigned to pork, when applied, the USDA grades, in order of
i-s
that follow, BRT indicates boned, rolled, and tied. RTE signifies ready to eat.
highest to lowest quality, are 1, 2, 3, 4, and Utility.
These cuts are from the rear ha lf o f the swine: 1. ham prepared by smoking, 2. fresh ham, 3. ham prepared by curing (prosciutto), 4. center-cut pork loin, 5. frenched rib end o f loin, 6. baby back ribs, 7. boneless tie d loin roast, 8. tenderloin, 9. center-cut pork chop fro m the loin end, 10. cen ter-cut pork chop from the rib end
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
85
pork, continued
These cuts are from the fro n t half o f the swine: 1. Boston butt, 2. pork picnic, 3. spare ribs, 4. fo o t. The follow ing are examples o f prepared pork items: 5. Genoa salami, 6. sliced bacon, 7. kielbasa, 8. chorizo, 9. pancetta, 10. Italian sausage, 11. breakfast sausage
86
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
o Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
SHAN K/H O C K
S tew ing , b ra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d sm oked o r corned
HAM (BONE-IN OR BONELESS)
For fre s h ham, ro a s t (bone-in, BRT), ro a s t w hole, ro a s t as sm a lle r sectio ns,
P ro s c iu tto ham, sa lte d and d ry-cu red long te rm ; S m ith fie ld ham, drycured and sm oked; inside ham RTE,
SUBPRIMAL
ham primal cut
o r c u tle ts
baked; th in -s lic e d sm oked ham (w e tcured, h a lf o r w hole, b u tt/s h a n k ); bo ile d ham (w e t-cu re d , cooked to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C ) TOP ROUND
S a u tein g
O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts
R oasting, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or
loin primal cut CENTER-CUT PORK LOIN
boneless); fre n ch e d , sm oked, chops (bone-in); o r C a na dia n-style bacon (boneless) BONELESS LOIN (EYE MUSCLE)
G rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts , m ed al lions, o r sch n itze l
TENDERLOIN
R oasting, sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as m ed allio ns or ro a s te d w hole
boston butt primal cut BOSTON BUTT
R oasting, stew ing , sa u te in g
O fte n pre p a re d (bone-in, boneless) as fo rc e m e a t o r sausages
COTTAGE BUTT
R o astin g o r fry in g as bacon
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (fre sh ) or sm oked (English bacon)
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t o r bone less (boneless, BRT, skin on, fresh); sm oked and cured (picnic ham, sm oked shoulder); as ta sso ham; as fo rc e m e a t (used f o r co ld -c u t p re p a ra tio n s)
picnic primal cut PICNIC (BO NE-IN OR BONELESS)
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
87
Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts, continued SUBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
S auteed or ro a s te d when fre sh ; o th e r fo rm s frie d
T yp ica lly cured fo r bacon, pa nce tta,
SPARE RIBS, ST. LOUIS RIBS (TRIM M ED)
B arbecuing, b ra isin g
S low cooked in barbecue; can be stea m e d o r sim m e red to te n d e rize
BABY BACK RIBS
B arbecuing
S low cooked as barbecued w hole
market forms BELLY
o r s a lt p o rk b u t can be slow ro a ste d o r braised as fre s h p o rk be lly
racks; can be se ctio n e d , coated, and cooked in d iv id u a lly FATBACK
S auteed
Can be fre s h o r salted; o fte n p re pared as lardons; in c o n fit, cassoulet, and fo rc e m e a t
B raising
O fte n p re pa red as fo rc e m e a t and as sausage
variety meats (offal) JOWL, SNOUT, NECK BONES, LIVER, HEART, FEET, TOES, TAIL, INTESTINES, KIDNEYS, CAUL FAT
Boston b u tt
loin
Pork skeletal structure
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
!
o Pork HRI Cuts
2
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
401
Fresh ham
1 8 -2 0
402B
Fresh ham, boneless, tie d
8 -1 2
403
Shoulder, picnic
6 -8
405A
Shoulder, picnic, boneless
4 -8
406
Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, bone-in (prim al)
4 and up
406A
Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, boneless
4 and up
408
B elly
1 2 -1 8
410
Loin (p rim a l)
1 6 -1 8
412
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, bone-in
8 -1 0
412B
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, boneless
4 -6
412C
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 rib s, bone-in
1 0 -1 2
412E
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 ribs, boneless
5 -7
413
Loin, boneless
9 -1 1
415
T end erloin
1 and up
416
Spare rib s
2 1/ 2 - 5 1/2
416A
Spare ribs, S t. Louis s ty le
2 -3
417
S h o ulder hocks
3/ t a n d up
418
T rim m in gs
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
420
F eet, fr o n t
1/2 -3/4
4 21
Neck bones
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
422
Loin, back ribs, baby back ribs
l 1/2 -2 1/4
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
89
lamb and mutton
Lamb is the tender meat
old. Lamb that is allowed to age over sixteen months is
produced by young, domesticated sheep. Its texture is a
known as mutton. Mutton is considered to have a more
direct result of what it consumes and the age at which
pronounced flavor and texture than lamb. As with other
it is slaughtered. The milk-fed varieties of lamb are in
varieties of meat, lamb becomes tougher as it ages.
clined to yield the most delicate meat. Once a lamb be
Lamb tends to be fatty. Its unique flavor pairs nicely
gins to eat grass, the flesh loses some of its tenderness.
with intense seasonings and accompaniments. The five
However, most lamb produced in the United States
grades of lamb, in order of highest to lowest quality, are
is finished on a grain diet and is six to seven months
Prime, Choice, Good, Utility, and Cull.
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. leg, 2. leg BRT, 3. trim m ed loin, 4. loin chops, 5. noisettes
90
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
lamb and m utton
e
These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. sp lit and chined rack, 2. frenched rack, 3. double- and single-rack chops, 4. square-cut chuck/shoulder, 5. shoulder BRT, 6. shanks
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
91
Ovine (Lamb) Primal Cuts SUBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
S te w in g (bone-in or boneless), braising, ro a s tin g (m o st com m on)
O fte n pre p a re d as leg o f lam b or ro a s t (bone-in, BRT, oven-ready, fre n ch e d , sem i-bon eless)
R oasting, sau tein g, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n p re pa red as steaks, scaloppine, o r b u tte r f lied
TRIM M ED LOIN, SPLIT; BO N ELESS(EYE MUSCLE); SIRLOIN
R o astin g (rare), sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in,
TENDERLOIN
Sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as m ed allio ns o r n o is e tte s
RACK (SPLIT AND CHINED)
R oasting, sau tein g, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t (bone-in, crow n roa st); chops: A m erican (sin g le /d o u b le ) o rfre n c h e d
BREAST
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d as rib le ts or s tu ffe d
leg primal cut SHANK, HEEL, KNUCKLE, EYE ROUND, BOTTOM ROUND TOP ROUND
loin primal cut boneless); c u t in to chops
hotel rack primal cut
shoulder square primal cut FORESHANK
Braising, ste w in g
M ay be pre p a re d bone-in o r boneless
NECK
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
SQ UARE-CUTCHUCK, BONELESS
B raising, stew ing , g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or BRT) o r chops (round o r blade bone)
variety meats (offal) TONGUE
S im m e rin g
O fte n sm oked
LIVER
S a u tein g
O fte n pre p a re d as fo rc e m e a t
HEART
Braising, ste w in g
S m a lle r h e a rts are o fte n s tu ffe d and sau teed o r ro a s te d f o r a single p o rtio n
KIDNEYS
S tew ing, b ra isin g
O fte n stew e d and served w ith he arty in g re d ie n ts such as bacon and m ushroom s
INTESTINES
Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used as casing f o r sausage
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
1
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
204
Rack (prim al)
6 -8
204B
Rack, ro a s t-re a d y , single
2 -4
206
S ho ulder
2 0 -2 4
207
Shoulder, square cut
5 -7
208
Shoulder, square cut, boneless, tie d
6 -8
209
B re a st
7 -1 1
210
Foreshank
2 -3
231
Loin
9 -1 1
232
Loin, trim m e d
6 -8
232B
Loin, double, boneless
3 -4
233
Leg, p a ir (prim al)
1 9 -2 0
233A
Leg, single, t r o t t e r o f f
1 0 -1 2
234
Leg, boneless, tie d , single
8 -1 0
233G
Leg, hindshank
1 and up
233E
Leg, ste a m sh ip
7 -9
295
Lam b f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as needed
295A
Lam b f o r kabobs
A m o u n t as needed
296
G round lamb
A m o u n t as needed
Lamb and m utton skeletal structure
foresaddle
f
lamb and m utton
Lamb HRI Cuts
whole carcass
hindsaddle
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
93
venison and furred game
Free-
commonly refers to deer, other members of the venison
roaming and domesticated wild animals fall under the
family include moose, elk, and reindeer. Buffalo and
category of game. A variety of game meats have become
wild boar are other popular large game.
increasingly popular due in part to customer awareness
The most common of the small game is rabbit.
of lower fat and cholesterol content. Depending upon
Rabbit has mild, lean, tender, and fine-textured meat.
the area of the country, several types of furred game are
A mature rabbit ranges from three to five pounds, and
available.
young rabbit is generally two to three pounds. The loin
Game meats are categorized into two segments: large and small. Venison is the most popular large game, characterized by lean meat that is free from
is often sauteed or roasted, while legs are commonly braised or stewed. Commercial game meats are federally inspected.
intramuscular fat, generally dark red in color, and suit
The quality of the flesh is a direct result of age, diet, and
able for roasting, sauteing, and grilling. Though venison
the time of year that it was killed.
These cuts are from a variety o f game animals: 1. venison leg/haunch, 2. boneless venison loin, 3. venison medallions, 4. venison saddle, 5. frenched venison rack, 6. venison shoulder, 7. boneless venison shoulder, 8. rabbit
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
O
poultry The word poultry refers to any domesti
Similar to other meats, poultry must undergo a
C
cated bird used for human consumption. Once reserved
mandatory inspection for wholesomeness. The grades
r+ i- i
for special occasions, chicken and other poultry have
of USDA A, B, or C depend on numerous factors, such
become commonplace in restaurants and homes. The
as carcass shape and the ratio of meat to bone. Once
subtle and familiar flavor of chicken lends itself well
inspected, the birds are plucked, cleaned, chilled, and
to a number of different cooking methods. Considered
packaged. They may be purchased whole or in parts.
very nutritious, poultry entrees are among the most
Poultry is classified by age. The younger the bird, the
popular on most menus.
more tender the flesh.
"< !
These birds are examples o f geese and ducks: 1. Buddhist duck (called Pekin duck if the head is removed), 2. moulard duck breast, 3. goose, 4. moulard duck legs, 5. fo ie gras
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
95
poultry, continued
These birds are examples o f the chicken fam ily: 1 .6-pound roaster chicken, 2. turkey, B. stew ing hen, 4 . 3-pound fry e r chicken, 5. pheasant, 6. bone-in quail, 7. squab, 8. guinea fow l, 9. semi-boneless quail
96
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
^ 0
o
Classes of Poultry
£
TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
APPROX. AGE
APPROX. WEIGHT
BROILER
4 - 6 w eeks
FRYER
6 -1 0 weeks
COMMON COOKING METHOD
COMMON CULINARY USES
1 -3
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre pa red w hole o r s p lit
3 '/2 - 4 1/2
R oasting, g rillin g , bro ilin g , s a u te in g
(POUNDS)
O fte n pre pa red whole, s p lit, qu a rte re d , or d is jo in te d
7 -9
Over 10 m onths
6 -8
S im m e ring
FEMALE)
M o s t o fte n prepared in a soup, sto ck, or stew
POUSSIN
3 weeks
1
R o astin g
M o s t o fte n prepared w hole
ROCK CORNISH HEN,
5 - 7 weeks
Less tha n 2
R o astin g
M o s t o fte n prepared w hole or s p lit
U nder 8 m onths
7 -9
R o astin g
R oasted whole, carving
HEN TURKEY (FEM ALE)
5 -7
8 -2 0
R o astin g
R oasted whole
TOM TURKEY (M ALE)
O ver 7 m onths
20 and up
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
BROILER DUCKLING
U nder 8 weeks
4 -6
R oasting, sauteing,
O fte n only b re a s t is pre pa red. Legs o fte n p re pa red as c o n fit
U nder 12
6 -8
R o astin g
Slow ro a s t w hole or cu t in half; can be cu t in to p a rts and ro a ste d
6 m onths and up
8 -1 6
R o astin g
Can be dry cooked,
2 5 -3 0 days
3/ 4 - l
FOWL (STEWING HEN,
R o astin g
M o s t o fte n prepared
3 -5 m onths
ROASTER
w hole
CORNISH CROSS CAPON (CASTRATED M ALE)
ROASTER DUCKLING
m onths
g rillin g
weeks
GOOSE
SQUAB
ro a s te d w hole or cut in half, cu t in to p a rts and ro a ste d R o astin g
R oasted w hole
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
97
Classes of Poultry, continued TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
APPROX. AGE
APPROX. WEIGHT (POUNDS)
COMMON COOKING METHOD
COMMON CULINARY USES
PIGEON
2 -6
3/ 4 -l
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
m onths PHEASANT
6 - 8 weeks
2 -3
R o astin g
Can be cooked by d ry - or m o is t-h e a t m ethods; can be ro a ste d w hole o r cut in h a lf
QUAIL
6 - 8 weeks
V a-V2
R oasting, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
R oasted w hole
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
fish and shellfish identification Fish and shellfish were once plentiful and inexpensive; however, due to overfishing and the development and degradation of many coastal areas, demand has begun to outstrip supply. These factors have caused many countries to pass regulations limiting commercial fishing in specific waters, as well as the rise of aquaculture (the farm raising of fish), to ensure reliable sources. And as the health benefits of fish are increasingly becoming widely known, many Americans who traditionally favored red meats both at home and when they eat out are ordering fish entrees more often.
JM
fish basics The increased value of seafood demands th a t a chef
PAVE A portion-sized square cut from a fille t. A
must be fam iliar with a wide variety of fish and shellfish,
pave is generally cut from a large fille t, fo r exam
and th eir sources; be able to select absolutely fresh
ple, salmon, halibut, mahi mahi, or tuna.
fish and shellfish of the best quality; and understand the best cooking method or methods to use in their preparation. The firs t step in the selection process is assessing the purveyor or market. The fishmonger should properly handle, ice, and display the fish and should be able to
FRESHNESS CHECKS FOR FINFISH To ensure th at fish are of the best quality, the chef should carefully inspect them, checking for as many of the following signs of freshness and quality as possible:
answer any questions regarding the fish's origin and
Fish should be received a t a tem perature of
its qualities: lean or oily, firm -textu red or delicate, ap
4 0 °F /4 °C or less.
propriate fo r m oist-heat method or able to withstand a grill’s heat.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF FISH
The fish should have a good overall appearance (clear slime, no cuts or bruising, pliable fins). The scales should adhere tigh tly to the fish.
Fish can be purchased fresh in the m arket forms de
The flesh should respond to light pressure and not
scribed below, as well as in frozen, smoked, pickled, or
fee l soft.
salted forms. WHOLE FISH This is the fish as it was caught, com pletely intact. This is typically referred to as "in the round.” DRAWN FISH The viscera (guts) are removed, but head, fins, and scales are still intact.
The eyes should be clear, bright, and bulging. The gills should be bright pink to maroon in color, and if mucous is present, it should be clear. There should be no "belly burn"— evidence th at the viscera (guts) were le ft in the fish too long, result ing in bacteria and enzymes breaking down the
H 6 G (HEADED AND GUTTED) OR HEAD-OFF DRAWN The head and viscera (guts) are removed, but scales and fins are still intact. DRESSED FISH The viscera (guts), gills, scales, and
flesh along the rib cage. The fish should have a clean, sweet, sea-like smell.
STORAGE
fins are removed. The head may or may not be re moved. Also known as pan-dressed, these fish are usually appropriate fo r a single serving.
Under correct storage conditions, fish and shellfish can be held fo r several days w ithout losing any appreciable quality. Ideally, however, the chef should purchase only
STEAK This is a portion-sized cross section cut
the amount of fish needed fo r a day or two and should
from a dressed fish. Portion cuts from the fille ts
store it properly, as described below:
of large fish, such as tuna and swordfish, are also commonly called steaks.
1. Always keep fish at a proper storage tem perature and handle them as little as possible. Finfish: 28° to
FILLET This is a boneless piece of fish, removed
3 2 ° F /-2 ° to 0°C; smoked fish: 32°F/0°C ; caviar: 28°
from either side of the backbone. The skin may or
to 3 2 ° F /- 2 ° t o 0°C.
may not be removed before cooking. Purveyors often sell fille ts "pin-bone in," so it is im portant to specify "pin-bone out" when ordering. TRANCHE A portion-sized slice of a fille t th at is cut at a 45 -d e g ree angle to expose a g rea ter sur face area. A tranche is generally cut from a large fille t, fo r example, salmon or halibut.
lo o
2 . Whole, drawn, H 6 G, and dressed fish may be rinsed at this point; scaling and fabricating should be de layed until close to service time. 3. Place the fish on a bed of shaved or flaked ice in a perforated container (such as a hotel pan with a draining pan), preferably stainless steel. The fish
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
the top layer of ice from the storage container, and replace it with fresh ice.
4. Cover with additional ice. Fish may be layered, if
Fish purchased as fille ts or steaks should be stored in
necessary, with shaved or flaked ice; cubed ice can
stain le ss- stee l containers set on ice. They should not be
bruise the fish's flesh. It also will not conform as
in d ire c t c o n ta ct w ith the ice, however, because as it melts,
closely to the fish. Shaved or flaked ice makes a
much o f the fla v o r and te x tu re o f the fish w ill be lost.
tig h ter seal around the entire fish. This prevents undue contact w ith the air, slowing loss of quality and helping to extend safe storage life. 5. Set the perforated container in a second container. In this way, as the ice melts, the w ater will drain away. If fish is allowed to sit in a pool of water, flavor and textu re loss will occur. The longer it sits, the g reater the loss of quality. 6. Re-ice fish daily. Even when properly iced, fish will
fish basics
should be belly down, and the belly cavity should be filled with shaved ice as well.
Frozen fish , includ in g ice-glazed w hole fis h (re p e a t edly coa ted w ith w a te r and fro ze n so th a t the ice builds up in layers, co a tin g th e e n tire fish), in d ivid u a lly quick fro z e n (IQF), and fro z e n fille ts (which are o fte n tre a te d w ith sodium trip o ly p h o s p h a te [stp] to p ro m o te added w a te r re te n tio n ) should be sto re d a t -2 0 ° to 0 °F /-2 9 ° to -1 8 °C u n til ready to be tha w ed and cooked. Do n o t acce pt any fro z e n fis h w ith w h ite fr o s t on its edges. This in d ica te s fre e z e r burn, the re s u lt o f im p ro p er packaging o r th a w in g and re fre e z in g o f th e product.
gradually lose some quality. To slow this loss, skim
common fish types The s k e le ta l s tru c tu re o f fis h is a use ful means o f sepa
Fish m ay also be ca te g o rize d by th e ir a c tiv ity level:
ra tin g fin fis h in to sm a lle r groupings. The th re e basic
low, m edium , o r high. The m ore a fis h swim s, th e darker
typ e s o f fin fis h are fla t, round, and nonbony. F la tfis h
its fle s h w ill be. D a rke r-fle sh e d fis h have a higher oil
have a backbone th a t runs th ro u g h th e ce n te r o f th e
c o n te n t and, th e re fo re , a s tro n g e r flavo r. When choosing
fis h w ith tw o up pe r and tw o lo w er fille ts , and bo th eyes
th e b e st coo kin g tech niq ue fo r a given fish, consider the
on the same side o f th e head. Round fis h have a m iddle
o il c o n te n t o f th e fle sh . Low - and h ig h -a c tiv ity fis h have
backbone w ith one f ille t on e ith e r side, and one eye on
lim ite d coo kin g m ethods, w h ile m e d iu m -a c tiv ity fis h are
each side o f th e head. N onbony fis h have c a rtila g e ra th
q u ite v e rs a tile . (See th e ta b le s on pages 1 0 6 to 113.)
er than bones. (See diagram s on pages 1 0 4 and 113.)
c h a p t e r y » FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
lO l
flat fish
The characteristics of flat fish include the
following: one pigmented and one nonpigmented side; either right- or left-eyed; continuous dorsal and anal fins that stop before the caudal fin.
HALIBUT
TURBOT PET R A LE
SO LE LEM O N SOLE
B LA C K -B A C K FLO U NDER (RIGHT-EYED)
F LU K E (LEFT -E Y ED FLOUNDER)
DOVER SOLE
102
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
Found th ro u g h o u t th e G u lf o f M aine
Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
flat fish
Flat Fish
right-eyed GRAY SO LE/W ITCH FLOUNDER
W INTER F LO U N D ER / BLACK-BACK FLO U N D ER / MUD DAB
PLAICE/ROUGH DAB
in d e ep er areas along G eorges Bank. Averages 2 4 inches and 3 - 4 pounds, w ith 4 - to 10-ou nce fille ts . Ligh t, s lig h tly sw e et, d e lic a te fle s h Found inshore du rin g w in te r m onths, m o s tly in New York, M assa chu setts, and
Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
Rhode Island. Averages I V 2-2 pounds. C olor ranges fro m re d d ish -b ro w n to deep olive green; w h ite underside. D iam ond shape. D elicate, m ild ly fla v o rfu l fle sh Found on bo th sides o f th e A tla n tic ; called European, Irish, Am erican, or
Baking, poaching, sauteing, steam ing
Canadian plaice depending on where it is found; m em ber o f flo u n d e r fa m ily. Sm all fla t fish; 1 - 3 pounds average size. Firm, sweet, lean flesh ; considered good q u a lity
YELLO W TAIL FLOUNDER
Found p rim a rily fro m L a b ra d o r to Rhode Island, can be as fa r sou th as V irg in ia . Averages 1 - 2 pounds. O live brow n w ith ru s ty spots; ye llo w ta il; c o lo r m irro rs th e ocean flo o r, p ro v id in g p ro te c tio n fro m
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
p re d a to rs . Lean, fla k y , sw e e t fle sh LEMON SOLE
A w in te r flo u n d e r. M in im um o f 3V2
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
pounds, w ith 8-o un ce fille ts . W hite, som e w h at firm , m ild ly sw e e t fle s h ROCK SOLE
Found fro m th e B ering Sea to C a lifo rn ia and as fa r w e s t as Japan. Averages less
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
than 5 pounds. Firm , cream y w h ite fle s h PETRALE/PETRALE SOLE
REX SOLE
Found in th e P a cific Ocean fro m
Poaching, sau tein g
A laska to M exico; th e m o s t im p o rta n t co m m e rcia l W est C oast species. Sold w h ole o r w ith head, ta il, and p igm e nted skin rem oved. Averages 6 - 7 pounds. Firm , w h ite fle sh ; s im ila r in e a tin g q u a litie s to lem on sole Found in cold w a te rs near and around A laska. Averages 1 - 2 pounds. E longated body. D e lica te , cream y, w h ite , som e w h at s o ft fle sh ; d is tin c t in fla v o r
Poaching, sau tein g
ch a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
103
Flat Fish, continued COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
DOVER SOLE
Found only in European w a te rs. Pale gray to brow n. Sm all, com p resse d head; ve ry sm all eyes; e lon gate d body. Flesh is
Baking, b ro ilin g , poaching, sauteing, ste a m in g
f a t tie r and fir m e r than o th e r m em bers o f th e f la t fis h fa m ily. Dover sole is ty p ic a lly served whole. HALIBUT
Found in th e A tla n tic fro m G reenland to so u th e rn New Jersey; m ust be labeled P a cific h a lib u t if fro m P a cific Ocean. Can be as large as 7 0 0 pounds, com m only
Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
1 5 -3 0 pounds. Gray skin w ith w h ite m o ttlin g . Dense, sn o w -w h ite fle sh ; fin e te x tu re ; m ild ta s te ; h ig h e st fa t c o n te n t o f all lo w -a c tiv ity f la t fis h
left-eyed FLU K E /S U M M E R FLOUNDER
Found in co a sta l w a te rs fro m th e G ulf o f M aine to th e Carolinas. Large m outh exte n d s below and beyond its eyes. W hite, fla k y fle sh ; d e lic a te fla v o r and te x tu re
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
TURBOT
Found in th e N o rth Sea and European N o rth A tla n tic , tho ugh m o s tly fa rm e d in
Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , poaching, steam ing, sau tein g
th e Iberian Peninsula and Chile. Averages 3 - 6 pounds. D e lica te fla v o r; firm te x tu re
tail (caudal tin)
backbone
dorsal tin
Flat fish skeletal structure
104
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
operculum (gill co1
The character
sides of head; swim in upright position; firm gill plate; low, medium, or high activity.
FISH
low-activity round fish
low-activity round fish
istics of round fish include the following: eyes on both
HADDOCK
PO LLO CK
WHITE HAKE
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
105
Low-Activity Round Fish COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COD
S a ltw a te r fis h . P rovides w e ig h ty fille ts w ith good s h e lf life . T hick, w h ite flesh ;
S hallow poaching, baking, pan fry in g ,
m ild fla v o r; roe, cheeks, and chins are d e lica cie s in som e cu ltu re s
and d rie d
S a ltw a te r fish ; m em ber o f th e cod fa m ily . Averages 2 - 5 pounds; s im ila r to
Poaching, baking, sauteing, pan fry in g . S alte d and sm oked
HADDOCK
deep fry in g . Smoked, cured, salted,
cod, b u t sm a lle r m axim um size. A vaila ble drawn o r as f ille ts and stea ks (when buying fille ts , skin should be le ft on to d is tin g u is h fro m A tla n tic cod). Low fa t; firm te x tu re , m ild fla v o r W HITE HAKE
S a ltw a te r fish ; m em ber o f th e cod
Pan fry in g , baking, sm oking
fa m ily . Averages 3 - 1 0 pounds, tho ugh can be as large as 30 pounds. Com m only sold w ith o u t th e head. S o ft flesh ; s w e e te r and m ore fla v o rfu l than o th e r m em bers o f th e cod fa m ily POLLOCK
W O LFF IS H
S a ltw a te r fis h ; m em ber o f th e cod fa m ily . Averages 4 - 1 0 pounds. M o s tly sold as skin less fille ts . Reduced sh e lf life because o f high er o il co n te n t. D arker fle sh ; s tro n g e r and m ore d is tin c t fla v o r tha n o th e r m em bers o f th e cod fa m ily
Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , sm oking
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e N o rth A tla n tic
S hallow poaching, sauteing, pan fry in g
(New England and Iceland); m em ber o f th e c a tfis h fa m ily . Large head, p o w e rfu l ja w s, and sharp canine te e th ; fe e d s on m ollusks, clams, and w helks. Can be up to 40 pounds. W hite, firm fle s h o f va ryin g f a t c o n te n t
106
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
medium-activity round fish
medium-activity round fish
ch a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
Medium-Activity Round Fish NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
W EAKFISH
S a ltw a te r fis h . Averages 2 - 6 pounds. S w eet, o ff-w h ite d e lic a te fle s h
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , steam ing. Used to make fo rc e m e a ts
W ALLEYED PIKE
F re sh w a te r fish . Spiny fin n e d . Averages I V 2-3 pounds. M ild fla v o r; low f a t co n te n t; firm te x tu re
BLACK SEA BASS
STRIPED BASS
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m New England to F lorida. Averages 1 - 3 pounds. A vailable drawn w h ole o r in fille ts . W hite, firm fle sh ; d e lic a te te x tu re Averages 2 - 1 5 pounds, can reach up to 50 pounds. Firm, fla v o rfu l fle sh ; large fla k e
HYBRID B A SS/H YBR ID STRIPED BASS
RED SNAPPER
B ro ilin g , sauteing, poaching, steam ing, baking, stew ing . Used to make fo rc e m e a ts , in soups Poaching, baking, deep fry in g , sau tein g. C om m only served whole, using ta b le s id e p re s e n ta tio n
B roilin g, g rillin g , poaching, baking, deep fry in g , sauteing. Pickled; e x tre m e ly v e rs a tile
F arm -raised fis h th a t h it th e m a rk e t in th e 1 9 8 0 s; cross be tw ee n w h ite bass and s trip e d bass. Averages 1 -2 pounds. Flesh cooks v e ry w h ite ; som ew hat e a rth y fla v o r
B roilin g, g rillin g , poaching, baking, deep fry in g , sauteing. Pickled;
Found in th e G u lf o f M exico and ad ja cent
Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
A tla n tic w a te rs. R eef fis h ; buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f cig ua te ra to xin . D orsal red skin becom es lig h t red
e x tre m e ly v e rs a tile
or p ink on belly; red eyes; long p e cto ra l fin s . Firm te x tu re YELLO W TAIL SNAPPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish . Averages 1 -2 pounds, can be as large as 6 pounds; buy at less than 5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to x in . G re e n ish -ye llo w s trip e
Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , stea m ing
runs le n g th o f body. S lig h tly sw eet, w h ite , fin e , fla k y fle sh ; good e a tin g fis h SILK SNAPPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f cig ua te ra to xin . R e dd ish-p ink skin, ye llo w underside; ye llo w eyes. S im ila r to red snapper; ty p ic a lly less expensive
Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
VERM ILIO N SN APP ER / BEELINER/CARIBBEAN
S a ltw a te r re e f fish . Averages 2 pounds, b u t can be as large as 5 o r 6 pounds; buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to xin . Pale red along its side. O fte n s u b s titu te d f o r red snapper, tho ugh sm aller, co m m e rcia lly less valuable, and less fla v o rfu l
Poaching, baking, sauteing, g rillin g ,
SNAPPER
108
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
b ro ilin g , ste a m in g
DESCRIPTION
RED GROUPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to x in . R e dd ish-b row n color; b lo tch e s on the
CULINARY USES Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing, deep fry in g . In chow ders
skin; black d o ts around th e eyes. Few, if any, pin bones. Im p o rta n t com m e rcial catch. S w eet, w h ite fle sh BLACK GROUPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fis h , in deep w a te rs;
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing,
buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to x in . B la ckish -b ro w n color.
deep fry in g . In chow ders
Few, if any, pin bones. S w eet, o ff-w h ite fle s h GAG GROUPER
S a ltw a te r re e f fish ; buy a t less than 5 pounds because o f cig u a te ra to xin .
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing, deep fry in g . In chow ders
L ig h t brow n w ith da rk brow n le o p a rd like spo ts. Few, if any, pin bones. S w eet, w h ite fle sh TILEFISH
S a ltw a te r fish ; fo u n d along th e e n tire East Coast. Averages 6 - 8 pounds, can be
medium-activity round fish
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S)
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan fry in g
as large as 30 pounds. A vaila ble w hole and drawn, o r as fille ts . C o lo rfu l body. B ass-like q u a litie s ; firm y e t te n d e r fle s h
c h a p t e r y » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
109
high-activity round fish
OFF)
FA RM -R AISED KING SALM O N (PACIFIC S ALM O N )
ATLANTIC SALM O N
ARCTIC CHAR
RAINBOW TROUT
SPANISH M A C K ER EL
ATLANTIC M A C K ER EL
POMPANO
110
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
ATLANTIC SALM O N
A vaila ble ye a r-ro u n d th ro u g h o u t th e U n ite d S ta te s; because o f fa rm in g , no w ild catch is co m m e rc ia lly available. Averages 6 -1 2 pounds. Deep pink fle sh ; high fa t; shiny and
S m oking, poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing, g rillin g . In dips, soups, sushi, and sashim i
m o is t KING/PACIFIC SALMO N
COHO/SILVER SALM O N
Found fro m th e P a cific N o rth w e s t to A laska. Ranges fro m 1 6 -2 0 pounds, la rg e s t o f co m m e rcia l salm on. W ide bodied. M edium to da rk red fle s h Found th ro u g h o u t th e P a cific. S im ila r in ta s te and te x tu re to A tla n tic salm on
S m oking, poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , steam ing, g rillin g . In dips and soups
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , stea m ing , g rillin g , sm oking. In
high-activity round fish
High-Activity Round Fish
dips and soups SO CKEYE/RED SALMO N
BROOK TROUT
Found in A laskan and B ritis h C olum bian rive rs. Averages 5 - 7 pounds. G liste n in g s ilv e r skin. D ark red fle sh
Poaching, baking, b ro iling , stea m ing , g rillin g , sm oking. In
F re s h w a te r fis h ; fo u n d in th e n o rth e a s te rn U n ite d S ta te s and ea ste rn Canada; also
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , stea m ing . S tu ffe d
dips, soups, sushi, and sashim i; ideal f o r canning
fa rm raised. Averages 6 - 1 0 ounces. Dark, o live -g re e n skin; cre a m -co lo re d spo ts. D e lica te , b u tte ry fle s h RAINBO W TR O U T
F re s h w a te r fis h ; fa rm raised. Averages 1 0 -1 4 ounces. G enerally sold head on. Dark sp o ts on a lig h te r background. Firm , o f f -
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , steam ing. S tu ffe d
w h ite fle s h w ith m ild fla v o r STEELHEAD TROUT
A nadrom ous species o f ra in b o w tr o u t; fa rm raised in th e U n ite d S ta te s and Canada. Averages less tha n 12 pounds. S im ila r
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , steam ing. S tu ffe d
m arkings to ra in b o w tro u t. Taste, te x tu re , and c o lo r s im ila r to A tla n tic salm on ARCTIC CHAR
A nadrom ous; fo u n d in Europe, Canada, and A laska; also fa rm raised. Averages 2 - 8 pounds. D ark red to rose o r w h ite fle sh ; som e co n sid e r it su p e rio r to salm on
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , stea m ing . S tu ffe d
ALBACO RE/TO M BO
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m A tla n tic and P a cific w a te rs. Valuable c o m m o d ity in U.S. canning in d u s try , sold as "w h ite tuna.” A verages 1 0 30 pounds. L ig h t red to pink fle sh ; o ff- w h ite when cooked. M ild fla v o r
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
c h a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
ill
H igh-Activity Round Fish, continued NAME(S)
BIGEYE T U N A /A H I-B
BLUEFIN TUNA
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l, te m p e ra te
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing.
w a te rs . Ranges fro m 2 0 - 1 0 0 pounds. Rich, da rk fle s h
M uch so u g h t a fte r f o r sushi and sashim i
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e A tla n tic and the G u lf o f M exico. A m ong th e la rg e s t o f fish,
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing. The m o s t sou gh t a fte r f o r sushi and sashim i (c o n s is te n tly high prices; m o s t is e xp o rte d )
can w eigh up to 1 ,5 0 0 pounds. D ark red to re d d is h -b ro w n fle sh ; v e ry d is tin c t fla v o r when cooked YELLO W FIN TU N A /A H I
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l and
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
s u b tro p ic a l w a te rs. W id e ly a va ila ble in the U n ite d S ta te s; less expensive than bigeye and b lu e fin . Y ellow s trip e s down side and on d o rsa l and anal fin s . Flesh d a rk e r than alba core, lig h te r than b lu e fin SKIPJACK T U N A /A K U
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e C e ntral P a cific and Hawaii. O fte n canned, sold as "lig h t tu n a ”; o fte n m a rke te d fro ze n . Averages 7 - 1 2
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
pounds. S im ila r in c o lo r to y e llo w fin SPANISH MACKEREL
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m V irg in ia to th e G u lf o f M exico in s p rin g and w in te r. Averages 2 - 4
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing, sm oking
pounds. B rig h t y e llo w -g o ld s p o ts along its sides. Lean, d e lic a te fle s h ATLANTIC MACKEREL
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e N o rth A tla n tic . B est purchased in th e fa ll. Averages 1 -2 pounds. S m o o th skin w ith v ib ra n t hues o f blue and silver. O ily, da rk fle sh ; pung en t fla v o r
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing, sm oking
KING MACKEREL
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m F lo rid a in w in te r
B roilin g, g rillin g , sm oking
m onths. Averages 1 0 - 2 0 pounds. C ontains m ore f a t than Spanish m ackerel; w ell fla v o re d POMPANO
S a ltw a te r fish; fro m the Carolinas to Florida and the G ulf o f M exico; m em ber o f the Jack fam ily. Very expensive; highly regarded fish. Averages 1 -2 pounds. Delicate, beige flesh, tu rn s w h ite when cooked; com plex flavo r; medium fa t con tent
Poaching, baking, b ro iling , g rillin g , fry in g , steam ing, en p a p illo te
PERMIT
S a ltw a te r fis h ; s im ila r to pom pano o n ly in c o lo r and geography; m em ber o f th e Jack
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g , ste a m in g
fa m ily . Averages 1 0 -2 0 pounds, can be as large as 50 pounds. Drier, m ore gra n u la r fle s h than pom pano (though if o ffe re d in the same w e ig h t range, fle s h can be sim ila r)
112
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
GREATER AMBERJACK
n c c rm rv r,™ , DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m G u lf o f M exico, W est
Baking, b ro ilin g , sauteing,
A fric a , and th e M e d ite rra n e a n ; m em b er o f
sm oking
th e Jack fa m ily . Averages 1 0 -4 0 pounds. Dark, o ily fle sh ; s tro n g fla v o r LESSER AM BERJACK
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to th e
Baking, b ro ilin g , sauteing,
G u lf o f M exico and B razil; m em ber o f th e Jack fa m ily . W eighs less tha n 8 pounds. L ig h te r fle s h tha n g re a te r am berjack;
sm oking
s im ila r in q u a lity MAHI M A H I/ DOLPHINFISH
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l w a te rs. Ranges fro m 4 - 1 5 pounds; can be as large as 50 pounds. Flesh is pink to lig h t tan, tu rn in g beige to o ff- w h ite when cooked; dense, sw eet, m o ist, and d e lic a te fle s h , w ith
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , pan fry in g , sau tein g
high-activity round fish
NAME(S)
a large fla k e BLUEFISH
Baking, b ro ilin g
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m th e A tla n tic coast. Averages 4 - 1 0 pounds. Dark, oily, s tro n g ly fla v o re d fle sh ; sm a lle r sizes have a m ild e r fla v o r; fin e te x tu re d
SHAD
Anadrom ous; fro m F lorida to S t. Law rence River. Fem ale (roe shad) averages 4 - 5 pounds; m ale is sm aller. O ff-w h ite , sw e et fle sh ; high f a t co n te n t. Roe is co n sid e re d a
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sauteing, sm oking
de lica cy
backbone
dorsal fin operculum (gill cover)
tail (caudal fin)
pectoral fin anal fin
vent ribs
pin bones
fin
Round fish skeletal structure
c h a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
113
nonbony fish
STURGEON (HEAD OFF)
11 4
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
O
Nonbony Fish NAME(S)
SWORDFISH
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
DESCRIPTION
CULINARY USES
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m tro p ic a l, te m p e ra te
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
w a te rs and th e N o rth A tla n tic . S m ooth skin, firm , dense fle sh . A vaila ble
!= b
is i
skin le ss and headless, in f ille t s or stea ks. D is tin c tly fla v o re d STURG EO N/ ATLANTIC STURG EO N/ W HITE STURGEON
P o
A na dro m ous fis h . A tla n tic sturge on , fro m n o rth e rn F lo rid a to S t. Law rence River, averages 60 to 8 0 pounds; w h ite sturge on , fo u n d fro m C a lifo rn ia to A laska and fa rm raised, averages 1 0 -1 5 pounds. H ighly re g ard ed f o r th e ir eggs, fin e caviar. Firm , h ig h -fa t fle s h ; d e lic a te
13-
Baking, braised, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g, sm oking
fla v o r M O N K F IS H / ANGLERFISH
S a ltw a te r fis h . Averages 1 5 - 5 0 pounds, w ith 2 - to 6-p ou nd fille ts . C om m only sold as ta ils and fille ts ; low y ie ld when sold head on. Firm , m ild w h ite fle s h
MAKOSHARK
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m w arm , te m p e ra te , and tro p ic a l w a te rs. Ranges fro m 3 0 - 1 0 0 pounds. One o f th e m o s t highly reg ard ed species o f shark
DOG FISH/CAPE SHARK
S a ltw a te r fish . Averages 3 - 5 pounds. S m oo th skin; bro w n ish o r gray to p s id e ; w h ite underside; w h ite /g ra y s p o ts along th e side o f th e body. S w e e t pink to w h ite , firm fle s h
THRESHER SHARK
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m w arm , te m p e ra te , and tro p ic a l w a te rs. Averages 3 0 - 5 0 pounds. E asily id e n tifia b le by its
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g , sau tein g, pan fry in g . Livers are po p u la r in Japan
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g , sau tein g. S hark fin is po p u la r in Hong Kong and Canton, China
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g , s a u te in g
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , fry in g , sau tein g. Shark fin is p o p u la r in Hong Kong and China
e x tre m e ly e lo n g a te d fin . S w e et pink fle s h SKATE/RAY
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fo u n d in w a te rs th ro u g h o u t th e U n ite d S ta te s . F la t c re a tu re s re la te d to th e shark. Fin is e d ib le p a rt o f th e fish , called “wings," p ro d u cin g 2 fille ts ; up pe r f ille t is g e n e ra lly th ic k e r than lo w er one. W hite, sw e et, fir m fle sh ; e x c e lle n t e a tin g fis h
Poaching, baking, fry in g , sau tein g
c h a p te r 7 » F IS H A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
115
Other Fish NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
EEL
A na dro m ous fis h . A m erican eel is s lig h tly sm a lle r European eel; fe m a le s are la rg e r than m ales; fa rm raised in China. S na ke-like shape. A vaila ble alive
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES B ro ilin g , fry in g , stew ing . E xcelle nt sm oked
o r w hole; b e s t q u a lity ju s t b e fo re jo u rn e y to spawn; H ig h -fa t, fir m fle s h AM ERICAN CATFISH
F re s h w a te r fis h ; fo u n d m o s tly in so u th e rn regions, though v a s t m a jo rity is fa rm raised. C om m only sold headless
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , steam ing, stew ing , deep fry in g , pan fry in g , sm oking
and skinless. F ille ts average 6 - 1 2 ounces. L o w -fa t, fir m fle sh ; m ild fla v o r ANCHOVY
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m C a lifo rn ia , S outh A m erica, th e M e d ite rra n e a n , and Europe; over 20 species are recognized as anchovies. B e st less than 4 inches in length. S ilv e r skin. S o ft, fla v o r fu l fle s h
SARDINE
S a ltw a te r fis h ; fro m Spain, Portugal, and Ita ly. S ardines are recognized as a species o f sm all herring. A vaila ble w hole o r dressed; b e s t less tha n 7 inches in length. S ilv e ry skin. D e lica te f a t t y fle s h
JOHN DORY/ST. PETER'S FISH (IN EUROPE)
S a ltw a te r fish ; fro m th e ea stern A tla n tic , Nova S cotia, the
Fresh w hole: deep fry in g , pan fry in g , sm oking, m a rin a tin g . A lso m arke te d s a lt-cu re d , canned (packed in oil), dried . Used as a fla v o rin g a d d itiv e and garnish B ro ilin g , g rillin g , deep fry in g , m a rin a tin g . A lso m a rke te d salted, sm oked, o r canned
Poaching, g rillin g , sau tein g
M e d ite rra n e a n . B lack sp o ts w ith a go ld en halo on each side o f body. Firm , b rig h t w h ite fle sh ; d e lic a te ly m ild fla v o r; fin e fla k e T IL A P IA /M U D FISH
N a tive to A fric a ; fa rm e d around the w o rld . Four to 18 inches long; m a rke te d around 1 to 2 pounds. H yb rid ize d to achieve red, black, o r go ld en skin; d is tin g u is h e d by th e in te rru p tio n along its la te ra l line. O ff-w h ite to p in k fle sh ; ve ry m ild fla v o r
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
Poaching, baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , ste a m in g
S h e llfish are a q ua tic anim als p ro te c te d by some s o rt o f carapace (shell). Based on s k e le ta l s tru c tu re , the y are segm ented in to fo u r d is tin c t cate gories: univalves (sin gle -she lle d m ollusks), bivalves (m ollusks w ith tw o shells jo in e d by a hinge), crustaceans (jo in te d e x te rio r ske le to n s or shells), and cephalopods (m ollusks w ith te n ta c le s a tta ch e d d ire c tly to th e head).
M A R K E T F OR MS S h e llfish are ava ila ble fre s h and fro z e n in variou s fo rm s. Fresh sh e llfis h are ava ila ble live, shucked as ta ils , cock ta il claws, and legs and claws. Frozen sh e llfis h are also available shucked as ta ils , c o c k ta il claws, and legs and claws. Shucking is th e rem oval o f a m o llu s k s m eat fro m th e shell; th e shucked m a rke t fo rm is sold as m eat only, along w ith n a tu ra l ju ic e s known as liquor. M ollusks such as o yste rs, clam s, and m ussels may be available shucked. S callops are nearly alw ays sold shucked, a l though th e re is a g ro w in g m a rk e t f o r scallops th a t are live and on th e h a lf-s h e ll w ith roe.
Q U A L I T Y I N D I C AT OR S W hen purchasing live sh e llfish , look f o r signs o f m ove
shellfish
shellfish m ent. L o b ste rs and crabs should move about. Clams, mussels, and o y s te rs should be tig h tly closed, but as th e y age, th e y w ill begin to open, and should close when tou ched . Any shells th a t do not snap shut when tap ped should be discarded; th is means th a t th e fis h are dead. M olluska n s h e llfis h should have a sweet, sea-like aroma.
STORAGE Crabs, lo b ste rs, and o th e r live sh e llfis h should be packed in seaweed o r dam p paper upon delivery. If a lo b s te r ta n k is n o t available, th e y can be sto re d d ire c tly in th e ir sh ip p in g c o n ta in e rs o r in p e rfo ra te d pans a t 39° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to 7°C u n til th e y are to be prepared. Do not allow lo b s te rs or crabs to come in to d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith fre s h w a te r, as it w ill k ill them . Clams, m ussels, and o yste rs purchased in the shell should be s to re d in th e bag in w hich th e y w ere d e liv ered o r in p e rfo ra te d pans. They should n o t be iced, but should be s to re d a t a te m p e ra tu re betw een 35° and 4 0 °F /2 ° and 4°C. The bag should be closed tig h tly and lig h tly w e ig h te d to keep th e sh e llfis h fro m opening.
c h a p te r 7 » FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
117
molluskan shellfish
BELON O YS TER S
CH ER RYSTO N E C LA M S
TO PN ECK C LA M S KUM AM OTO O YS TER S
CO CKLE C LA M S
RA Z O R C LA M S S EA URCHINS
F A N N Y BAY O YSTER S
G EO DUCK CLAM S EA S C A LLO P S
M A LPE Q U E O YSTER S BAY S C A LLO P S GREEN M U S S ELS
BLU E M U S S E L S
FLORIDA O YSTER S
118
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
G a stro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d along th e P a cific
G rillin g , sauteing. M a rin a te d
univalves ABALONE
coast; also fa rm raised in C a lifo rn ia , Chile, and Japan. F arm -raised averages 3 inches in diam e te r. Encased in side round, oval shell. A vaila ble w h ole o r in stea ks; fre s h o r fro z e n SEA U R CHIN/UN I
Found in oceans around th e w o rld ; o fte n gro up ed w ith m o llu sks f o r m a rke tin g , b u t are tru e echinoderm s. Hard, da rk pu rp le shell
Baking. In sushi; as fla v o rin g in
molluskan shellfish
Molluskan Shellfish
sauces
covered w ith spines. The green v a rie ty is th e m o s t popular. H a rve ste d f o r in te rn a l roe (uni), w hich ranges fro m b rig h t red to orange to ye llo w in co lo r; fir m te x tu re th a t m e lts in you r m outh; sw e e t fla v o r; co n sid ered a de lica cy CONCH/SCUNGILLI
G a stro p o d m ollusk; indigenous to th e Caribbean and th e F lorida Keys, also fa rm raised in th e Caribbean and F lorida. A vaila ble o u t o f shell o r ground. Conch fro m w arm
In salads, ceviche, chowders, f r it t e r s
w a te r is large and sw e et. S cu n g illi fro m cold w a te r is sm all and n o t as sw e et W H ELK/C H AN N EL W HELK
G astro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te r along East C oast fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to n o rth e rn F lorida; large sea snail used m ainly in Europe and Korea. A vaila ble fre s h or
M a rin a te d ; in salads and ceviche
cooked, pre se rve d in vinegar, and canned LAND SNAIL/ESCARG OT
G a stro p o d m ollusk; ab un da nt in m o s t p a rts o f th e w o rld ; fa rm raised in C a lifo rn ia . A ir
Baking, b o ilin g , b ro ilin g
b re a th in g . A vaila ble fre s h o r canned PERIW INKLE
G a stro p o d m ollusk; fo u n d along A tla n tic coa sts o f Europe and N o rth A m erica, e sp e cia lly New England. S m ooth, conical
B oiling, sau tein g
s p ira l shell w ith 4 w h o rls; o u te r she ll is gray to d a rk green w ith red dish bands th a t e n circle it
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
119
Molluskan Shellfish, continued NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
bivalves Q U AH O G C LA M
RAZO R/ATLANTIC JAC KKN IFEC LAM
H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fro m cold n o rth e rn w a te rs. Sizes include (s m a lle s t to la rg e st) little n e c k , to p n e ck, c h e rrysto n e , chowder. Sold as co u n t per 60 -p o u n d bushel
Baking, steam ing, stew ing. In chow der; sm a lle r sizes eaten on th e h a lf-s h e ll
H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te rs
Baking, stea m ing , stew ing , deep
along th e East Coast. Shaped like a razor w ith sharp edges. D iffic u lt to s to re o u t o f
fry in g . In f r it te r s
w a te r; q u ickly dehyd rates, le avin g shells dry and b r ittle SO FT-SH ELLED / IPSW ICH/HORSE C L A M / STEAMER
GEODUCK CLAM
S o ft-s h e lle d clam; fo u n d in sha llo w w a te rs in th e Chesapeake, M aine, M a ssa ch u se tts,
S team ing, bre a d in g and deep fry in g
and e n tire P a cific coast. Le ng th y gray, s o ft, b r itt le shell. Neck o r siphon covered by th in skin. Can be sandy unless de p u ra te d . Sw eet fla v o r H a rd -sh e lle d clam; fo u n d along th e W est C oast, also fa rm raised in th e P a cific N o rth w e s t. Can reach 9 inches in length
Baking, stea m ing , sauteing. In f r it te r s , chowder, sushi, and ceviche
and 10 pounds, tho ugh m o st are m a rke te d a t 3 - 4 pounds; la rg e s t clam fo u n d in N o rth A m erica. G ra yish -w h ite , rin ge d shell. Neck is e x c e p tio n a lly long in re la tio n to shell M A N ILA /W E S T COAST LITTLE N E C K C LA M
120
H a rd -sh e lle d clam ; fo u n d in th e P acific.
Baking, steam ing. In stew s
S lig h tly elon gate d, g ra y is h -w h ite shell w ith d a rk black m arkings. Can g ro w up to 3 inches in le ng th
COCKLE
C om m ercially valuable in Asia, the U nited S tates, and Europe; large reso urce fro m B ritis h Colum bia, G reenland, and F lorida. Sm all; w h ite to green shell
Baking, steam ing; to o sm all to be used shucked
BLUE M USSEL
Found in te m p e ra te w a te rs o f th e n o rth e rn and so u th e rn hem ispheres; fa rm raised in M aine, Nova S cotia , Prince Edw ard Island, and Spain. Averages 2 - 3 inches long. Dark blue shell. S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r
Baking, steam ing. In stew s
GREEN M USSEL
Found in coa stal, tro p ic a l w a te rs o f the In d o -P a c ific region; also fa rm raised in New Zealand. A vaila ble live, h a lf-s h e ll, and shucked. Averages 3 - 4 inches long. Green shell. S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r
Baking, steam ing. In stew s
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
DESCRIPTION
EAST COAST OYSTER
From th e N o rth e a s t, V irg in ia , and G ulf coasts. A vaila ble w ild and fa rm raised; grow n w h ile subm erged u n d e rw a te r. M o s t com m o nly sold o y s te r in th e U n ite d S ta te s. S m oo th h a lf-s h e ll; shell on to p and b o tto m . V a rie tie s include M alpeque, C hincoteague,
Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g , sau tein g, steam ing, roa sting . On th e to p h a lf-sh e ll. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s , a p p e tize rs
and F lorida JAPANESE/W EST COAST
Grown u n d e rw a te r a t high tid e and o u t o f
OYSTER
w a te r a t low tid e . S callo ped shell. K um am oto is a p o p u la r v a rie ty
EUROPEAN FLAT OYSTER
PACIFIC /O LYM PIA OYSTER
BAY/CAPE COD/LONG ISLAND SCALLOP
Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing, steam ing. On th e h a lf shell. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s , a p p e tize rs
N a tive to Europe; seen o f f c o a s t o f M aine. A vaila ble w ild and fa rm raised. Round, f la t
Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g , sau tein g, steam ing, roa sting .
shell. P rized f o r its re m a rka b le fla v o r and te x tu re . V a rie tie s include Belon, M arennes,
Belon o y s te rs should n o t be cooked. On th e h a lf-sh e ll.
and H e lfo rd
In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s , a p p e tize rs
N a tive W est C o ast oyste r. Sm all; less tha n 3 inches in d ia m e te r; less cupped tha n ea ste rn
Baking, b a tte r fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing, steam ing. On h a lf
v a rie tie s . D is tin c t m in eral a fte rta s te
shell. In soups, stew s, s tu ffin g s , a p p e tize rs
Found fro m M a ssa ch u se tts to N o rth C arolina. S m all com pared to sea v a rie ty . Bay h a rve stin g in fa ll and w in te r; hand raking; shucked on shore. S old fre s h (lim ite d live
molluskan shellfish
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching, stew ing , sau tein g
m a rke t), n o t fro ze n . C ream y iv o ry to pink. Very sw eet; O fte n con sid ered th e be st ta s tin g SEA SC ALLO P/DIVER SCALLOP
Found fro m th e G u lf o f M aine to N o rth Carolina; also fa rm raised (lim ite d m arke t).
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching, stew ing , sau tein g
C om m only fro ze n ; fre s h a va ila ble year round. Can be up to 8 inches in diam e te r. Brow n shell. "D ive r sca llo p " in d ic a te s hand h a rvestin g; m ore m o is tu re and less g r it than th o se dredged; m ore u n ifo rm in size. S w eet, m o is t fle sh , n o t as te n d e r as bay v a rie ty CALICO SCALLOP
Found fro m C arolinas to S ou th A m erica, on A tla n tic and G u lf o f M exico coasts. A vaila ble yea r-rou nd. Sm all, less tha n 3 inches. Flesh is d a rk e r than bay v a rie tie s ; fla v o r and te x tu re
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching, stew ing , sau tein g
in fe rio r to bay v a rie tie s
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
121
cephalopods
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
n a>
Id t r
Cephalopods COMMON COOKING METHODS AND
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
SQ U ID /C ALAM AR I
In v e rte b ra te ; fo u n d along th e East and W est Coasts. Changes c o lo r o f skin fo r
CULINARY USES
p ro te c tio n ; ink used to con fuse p re d a to r. A verages 7 inches in length. A vaila ble fre s h , cleaned, in rings o r tub es, and fro ze n . S lig h tly firm te x tu re when cooked p ro p e rly;
Baking, bo iling , b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan fry in g , s tir-fry in g , sauteing. Ink used to co lo r pasta and rice
o id o
CL GO
m ild, sw e e t fla v o r OCTOPUS
Found in shallow and deep w a te rs o f C a lifo rn ia and A laska; also A tla n tic and A rc tic regions fro m th e English Channel to Berm uda. Ranges in size fro m a fe w ounces (baby) to over 1 0 0 pounds. S o ft bodied; bloo d is blue; eyes on b o th sides o f head; 8 arm s, w ith 2 row s o f su ctio n cups on each. M ild fla vo r, te n d e r te x tu re when cooked
B oiling. W hen sm all, deep fry in g , g rillin g , sau tein g
p ro p e rly CUTTLEFISH
Found in shallow co a sta l w a te rs fro m Thailand, China, India, Spain, and P ortu gal. E ig ht arm s, 2 long, n a rrow te n ta c le s . L ig h t
B oiling, steam ing, s tir-fry in g . In sushi, sashim i
brow n w ith ze b ra -like s trip e s . S w eet, v e ry te n d e r when cooked p ro p e rly ; b rig h t w h ite fle s h
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
1 23
crustacean shellfish
124
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
M A IN E /N O R T H E R N / NORTH AM ERICAN LOBSTER
Found o f f A tla n tic co a st o f n o rth e rn U n ite d S ta te s, Canada, Europe (though sm aller).
Baking, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , poaching, steam ing, s tir -fry in g
SPIN Y/R O C K LOBSTER
Found o f f F lorida, so u th e rn C a lifo rn ia , New M exico, A u stra lia , New Zealand, South A fric a . A ll 10 legs are same size; has no claws; fle s h is fo u n d in ta il. F irm fle sh , less
Can ta ke 8 years to reach m a rk e t size o f 1 -2 pounds. Flesh is b rig h t w h ite w ith red dish s tre a ks; firm , sw e et, d e lic a te Baking, g rillin g , poaching, steam ing, s tir -fry in g
shellfish
NAME(S)
crustacean
Crustacean Shellfish
sw e e t than A m erican lo b s te r CRAYFISH/CRAW FISH
Found in fre s h w a te r swam ps, creeks, bayous; fa rm raised in Louisiana and F lorida; im p o rte d fro m S o u th e a st Asia. A vaila ble
B oiling, stea m ing
shucked, cooked and picked m eats. Deep red shells, b rig h t red when cooked. S w eet, w h ite , firm fle sh LA N G O U S TIN E/D U BLIN
Found in European, A tla n tic , and
BAY PRAW N/SCAM PI
M e d ite rra n e a n w a te rs ; re la te d to spiny lo b ste r. S lig h tly sw e e t and fla v o rfu l fle s h
W ARM WATER SHRIMP
Found in tro p ic a l w a te rs; m a jo rity o f U.S. catch ha rve ste d in South A tla n tic and G ulf o f M exico. Sold by size co u n t pe r pound. C la ssifie d by shell co lo r: p ink (sw eet, te n d e r); brow n (briny, firm ); w h ite (sw eet,
Poaching, bo iling , steam ing, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing , stew ing , poaching
m ild). C o lor va rie s w id e ly based on h a b ita t COLD WATER SHRIMP
Found in th e N o rth A tla n tic and N o rth
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,
P acific. Sold by size co u n t per pound. C o nsid era bly sm a lle r and s o fte r tha n w arm
en p a p illo te , g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing , ste w in g
w a te r v a rie tie s FRESHWATER SHRIM P
Farm raised in H aw aii and C a lifo rn ia . Sold by size cou nt per pound. Up to 12 inches long. Very s o ft, m ild fle s h
TIGER SHRIM P
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing, stea m ing
Found in th e South P acific, S o u th e a st
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g ,
A fric a , India; fa rm raised in Asia. Sold by size co u n t pe r pound. G rayish -bla ck s trip e s on g ra yish -b lu e shells; shell s trip e s tu rn b rig h t red when cooked. W h ite fle s h w ith orange if cooked peeled; red if cooked in the shell. M ild, briny, s lig h tly bland fla v o r
g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, ste a m in g
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
125
Crustacean Shellfish, continued COMMON COOKING METHODS
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
ROCK S H R IM P /H A R D SHELLED SHRIMP
Found fro m so u th e a s te rn U n ite d S ta te s to th e G u lf o f M exico. Sold peeled and by cou nt per pound. F lavo r and te x tu re m ore like c ra w fish than o th e r shrim p
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , en p a p illo te , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, ste w in g
BLUE CRAB
Found fro m Chesapeake Bay to th e G u lf Coast. M ales have blue claws, fe m a le s have re d d ish -b lu e ; b o th have long spine on each
Baking, broiling, deep frying , grillin g , poaching, sauteing,
AND CULINARY USES
steam ing, stew ing
side o f da rk green shell. Should be alive ju s t b e fo re cooking. S w eet, ten der, m o ist, b u tte ry fle s h SO FT-SH ELLC R AB
Blue crab th a t sheds its shell and is h a rve ste d when s till s o ft; in season fro m A p ril to m id -S e p te m b e r, peak in June and ea rly July. A fte r cleaning, th e e n tire crab may be eaten
Baking, b ro ilin g , deep fry in g , pan fry in g , g rillin g , sauteing. In sushi
JONAH CRAB
Found fro m Prince Edw ard Island to Maine. Oval in shape. Has 2 stro n g , b la c k -tip p e d
Baking, bro iling , deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing,
claws. S w eet, briny, s lig h tly s trin g y , firm fle s h
steam ing, stew ing
Found in n o rth e rn P acific, m o st abundant
Baking, broiling, deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, stew ing
K IN G /A LA S K A KING CRAB
DUNGENESSCRAB
in A laska and Russia. Can reach 10 fe e t and w eigh 1 0 -1 5 pounds. V a rie tie s include red, b ro w n /g o ld e n , blue Found along th e P a cific co a st fro m Alaska to M exico. Averages l V i - 3 pounds. R e dd ish-b row n shell, w h itish -o ra n g e underside. Flesh is m ild and sw e e t
SNO W CRAB
Found in A laska and e a ste rn Canada. A verages 5 pounds. Oval shaped; 4 pairs o f sle n d e r legs, 2 s h o rte r claw s in fro n t. W h ite fle s h tin g e d w ith pink; sw eet, s lig h tly strin g y , less fla v o rfu l than king crab
126
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
Baking, bro iling , deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, stew ing
Baking, bro iling , deep frying , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, steam ing, stew ing
:
fruit, vegetable, and fresh herb identification Fruits, vegetables, and herbs have always been an important part of the human diet, but today consumers are more aware than ever of the important role these foods play in maintaining overall health and fitness This chapter provides professional chefs with the information they need to take full advantage of the abundance of fresh produce now a v a ila b ly including tips on availability, determination of q u a l i t y . ^ ^ ^ H proper storage, and culinary uses.
general guidelines SELECTION F ruits, vegetables, and herbs should be in good con di tio n , tho ugh w h a t c o n s titu te s a fa vo ra b le appearance varies fro m one ite m to another. In general, fr u its and veg etab le s should be fre e o f bruises, m old, brow n or s o ft spots, and p e st damage; th e y should have colors and te x tu re s a p p ro p ria te to th e ir typ e ; and any a tta ch e d leaves should not be w ilte d . F ru its should be plum p, not shrivele d. S p e cific in fo rm a tio n on p a rtic u la r typ e s o f produce is given in th e s e ctio n s below.
O rganic fo o d is produced w ith o u t th e use o f m ost con ven tion al p e sticid e s, s y n th e tic fe rtiliz e rs , sewage sludge, fe rtiliz e r, bioengineering, o r ionizing rad ia tion. In o rd e r f o r a p ro d u c t to be labeled "organic," a g o vern m en t-a p p ro ve d c e r tifie r m ust in sp e ct w here th e fo o d is grow n and processed to ensure th a t USDA organic s ta n dards are adhered to. H yd rop onic crops are grow n in n u trie n t-e n ric h e d w a te r ra th e r tha n soil. H ydroponic gro w in g ta ke s place in do ors under re g u la te d te m p e ra tu re and light, so any g ro w in g season may be d u plicated . Today, hyd rop oni-
PRODUCTION METHODS F oodservice o p e ra tio n s w ie ld purchasing pow er th a t can
cally grow n le ttu ce s, spinach, herbs, and to m a to e s are all re a d ily available. A ltho ug h th e y have th e advantage o f being easy to clean, the se p ro d u cts may have a less
be used to s u p p o rt or discourage s p e c ific a g ric u ltu ra l
pronounced fla v o r than fr u its and veg etab le s grow n in
p ra ctices. You may w ish to con sid er several a g ricu ltu ra l
th e soil.
p ro d u c tio n and tre a tm e n t m etho ds when purchasing in gre die nts.
AVAILABILITY AND SEASONALITY
A g ric u ltu ra l b io te ch n o lo g y includes a m u ltitu d e o f s c ie n tific tech niq ue s th a t are used to crea te , im prove, o r m o d ify plants. For hundreds o f years, s c ie n tis ts have im proved pla n ts f o r human b e n e fit using con ven tion al tech niq ue s such as se le ctive breeding. However, con v e n tio n a l bre e d in g m ethods can be tim e consum ing and inaccurate. Through g e n e tic engineering, s c ie n tis ts are now able to is o la te genes fo r a d e sira ble t r a it and tra n s fe r the m to o th e r organism s, re s u ltin g in g e n e tic a lly m o d ifie d organism s (GMOs) th a t, fo r exam ple, have higher re sista n ce to disease. Irra d ia tio n is a fo o d s a fe ty te ch n o lo g y used to k ill pa thog en ic organism s and exte nd s h e lf life . S im ila r to the p a s te u riz a tio n o f m ilk and pressure p ro cessing o f canned goods, tre a tin g fo o d s w ith io nizing ra d ia tio n (also known as co ld p a s te u riz a tio n ) can k ill b a cte ria th a t m ig h t o th e rw ise cause fo o d -b o rn e illness. S ustainable a g ric u ltu re p e rta in s to a g ric u ltu ra l p ro d u ction and d is trib u tio n system s th a t fo cu s on p ro v id
128
P rio r to th e increase in a g ric u ltu ra l p ro d u c tio n and d is trib u tio n tech nolog y, chefs were lim ite d to lo cally grown seasonal f r u its and vegetables. Though fo o d e s ta b lis h m ents are no longer bound to buy local produce, it is s till a fa vo ra b le p ra ctice if and when possible. It is im p o rta n t to s u p p o rt th e local g row ers. M oreover, so-called bou tiq u e fa rm e rs m ay have sp e c ia lty produce (such as w ild le ttu ce s, golden beets, and ye llo w to m a to e s) th a t is not available th ro u g h large com m e rcial purveyors. A n o th e r advantage to buying lo ca lly is th a t the fla v o r and co n d i tio n o f th e fo o d s are o fte n sup erior; lo cally grow n sw eet corn, a p rico ts, peaches, and s tra w b e rrie s th a t have not been shipped are ju s t a fe w exam ples. Conversely, th e re are ite m s th a t ship p a rtic u la rly w ell. Exam ples include asparagus, head le ttu ce s, bro ccoli, apples, and citru s fru its .
STORAGE
ing a p ro fita b le fa rm incom e w h ile p ro m o tin g e n viro n
Once th e produce has been received, fo llo w in g certain
m en ta l stew a rdsh ip. Key p ra ctice s include renew ing and
storag e gu id eline s can ensure th a t its q u a lity rem ains
p ro te c tin g soil f e r t ilit y and th e n a tural resource base;
high. M o s t fo o d s e rv ic e e sta b lish m e n ts s to re produce
im p ro vin g the use o f o n -fa rm resources; and m in im izing
fo r no m ore than th re e o r fo u r days, although length o f
th e use o f nonrenew able resources. S ustainable fa rm in g
storag e depends on the business’s volum e, th e available
s triv e s to p ro m o te o p p o rtu n itie s in fa m ily fa rm in g and
storag e fa c ilitie s , and d e liv e ry frequ en cy. It is ideal to
fa rm com m u nitie s. S ustainable pra ctice s include im p le
le t th e pu rveyo r handle th e produce as long as possible,
m e n tin g s ystem s to stem soil erosion and m etho ds such
to help ensure th a t you use the fre s h e s t p ro d u c t pos
as in te g ra te d p e st m anagem ent and fie ld te rra cin g .
sib le and n o t overload you r valuable storag e space.
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
W ith a fe w exce ptio ns (bananas, to m a to e s, p o
C e rta in fru its , in clu d in g apples, bananas, and m el
ta to e s , d ry onions), rip e fr u its and veg etab le s should
ons, e m it high am ounts o f e th ylen e gas as th e y s it in
be re frig e ra te d . Unless o th e rw is e s p e cifie d , produce
storage. E thylene gas can acce le rate rip en ing in unripe
should be k e p t a t a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 0 ° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to
fru its , b u t can also p ro m o te spoilage in fr u its and vege
7°C, w ith a re la tiv e h u m id ity o f 8 0 to 90 pe rcen t. The
ta b le s th a t are alrea dy ripe. For th is reason, unless they
ideal s itu a tio n is to have a sep ara te w a lk-in o r reach-in
are being used d e lib e ra te ly as a rip en ing agent, high
re frig e ra to r fo r fr u its and vegetables.
e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its should be sto re d separately.
M o s t fr u its and ve g e ta b le s should be k e p t dry, be cause excess m o is tu re can p ro m o te spoilage. T h ere fore, m o st produce should n o t be peeled, washed, or trim m e d
When sep ara te sto ra g e space is unavailable, place e th y le n e -p ro d u c in g fr u its in sealed containers. Some fr u its and veg etab le s, including onions, garlic,
u n til ju s t b e fo re use. The o u te r leaves o f le ttu ce , fo r
lemons, and m elons, give o f f odors th a t can perm eate
exam ple, should be le ft in ta c t; c a rro ts should rem ain
o th e r fo o d s. D airy p ro d u c ts are p a rtic u la rly suscep
unpeeled. The exce ptio ns to th is rule are th e le a fy to p s
tib le to o d o r a b s o rp tio n and should alw ays be sto re d
on ro o t v eg etab le s such as beets, tu rn ip s , ca rro ts , and
away fro m fr u its and veg etab le s. C ertain fru its , such as
radishes. They should be rem oved and e ith e r discarded
apples and che rries, also absorb odors. They to o should
or used im m e d ia te ly, because even a fte r harvesting,
be w ell w ra pp ed or sto re d separately.
th e leaves absorb n u trie n ts fro m th e ro o t and increase m o istu re loss.
M any f r u its and veg etab le s begin to d e te rio ra te a f te r th re e o r fo u r days. A lth o u g h c itru s fru its , m ost ro o t
F ru its and ve g e ta b le s th a t need fu rth e r ripening,
veg etab le s, and hard squashes have a longer storage
n o ta b ly peaches and avocados, should be s to re d at
life , m o st re s ta u ra n ts do n o t hold even the se ite m s fo r
room te m p e ra tu re , 65 ° to 7 0 °F /1 8 ° to 21°C. Once the
m ore than tw o to th re e weeks.
produce is ripe, it should be re frig e ra te d so th a t it does not becom e overripe.
fruits F ruits are the ovaries th a t surround or contain the seeds
and g rille d pork chops. F ru it is w o nd erful served alone as
o f plants. C ustom arily used in sw eet dishes, fru its are
a refresh in g b re a kfa st or the fina le to a meal. Dried fru its
also excellent w ith savory item s, such as p o ta to latkes
fin d th e ir way in to com potes, s tu ffin g s, and sauces.
vegetables Vegetables are th e ro o ts, tu b e rs, stem s, leaves, le a f
such as to m a to e s . T heir cu lin a ry a p p lica tio n is th e g u id
stalks, seeds, seedpods, and flo w e r heads o f pla n ts th a t
ing p rin c ip le f o r placin g the m in th is se ctio n ra th e r than
may be s a fe ly eaten. V egetables com m only include a
th e previous one.
num ber o f fo o d s th a t are b o ta n ic a lly c la s s ifie d as fru its ,
herbs Herbs are th e leaves o f a ro m a tic plants, used p rim a rily
uncooked p re p a ra tio n s, fre s h herbs should be added
to add fla v o r to fo o d s. A rom a is a good in d ic a to r o f q u a l
w e ll in advance o f serving.
ity in b o th fre s h and d rie d herbs. They should have even
In general, herbs should be sto re d lo ose ly w rapped
color, h e a lth y -lo o k in g leaves and stem s, and no w iltin g ,
in dam p p a p e rto w e ls and re frig e ra te d . If desired, place
brow n spo ts, sunburn, or p e s t damage.
th e w ra pp ed herbs in p la s tic bags to help re ta in m ois
Fresh herbs should be m inced or cu t in c h iffo n a d e as close to service tim e as possible. They are usually
tu re and reduce w iltin g and d is c o lo ra tio n o f leaves. It is a good idea to label th e herbs, so th e y are easy to locate.
added to a dish to w a rd th e end o f the coo kin g tim e . For
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
apples
Apples are perhaps America’s favorite fruit.
According to surveys from the International Apple Insti
Apples can be held in climate-controlled cold storage for many months without significant loss of quality.
tute, apples account for nearly 14 percent of all tree fruits
Dried apples, prepared applesauce, apple juice (bottled
sold in this country. Apples range in color from yellow to
or frozen concentrate), cider, spiced or plain pie fill
green to red, and colors in between. Different varieties
ings, and a host of other prepared items made from
of apples have particular characteristics. Some are best
apples can also be purchased. The flesh of many apples will begin to turn brown
eaten out of hand, others are considered best for pies and baking, and still others are selected for their ability
once they are cut open and come in contact with air.
to cook down into a rich, smooth puree for applesauce.
Dousing them in acidulated water (water with a little
For cider, a blend of apples is usually chosen, to give the
lemon juice) will help prevent browning but may not be
finished drink a full, well-balanced flavor.
desirable if a pure apple taste is important. The follow
Select firm apples that have a smooth skin with no
ing table covers a selection of apple varieties.
bruising, though rough brown spots are acceptable.
STAYM AN W INESAP
CAM EO
130
G ALA
MCINTOSH
NORTHERN S P Y
GOLDEN DELICIOUS
CO RTLAN D
G R A N N Y SMITH
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
H O N EYCRISP
M AC0UN
CO X ORANGE PIPPIN
P
Apples VARIETY*
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CRABAPPLE
Sm all. Red. Y ellow or w h ite ve ry hard fle sh . T art
Cooked in sauces, je llie s , jam s, relishe s
GOLDEN DELICIOUS
Y e llo w ish -gree n skin w ith fre c k lin g . Crisp, ju icy. S w eet. S tays w h ite a fte r
Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se
S " in
c u ttin g lo n g e r tha n o th e r v a rie tie s GRANNY SMITH
MCINTOSH
Green skin. E x tre m e ly crisp, fin e ly te x tu re d w h ite fle sh . Tart. S tays w h ite a fte r c u ttin g lo ng er tha n o th e r v a rie tie s
savory p re p a ra tio n s. In pies
P rim a rily red, s tre a k e d w ith ye llo w or
Eaten o u t o f hand. In sauces, cider.
Eaten o u t o f hand. In sw e et and
green. Flesh is v e ry w h ite . S e m i-ta rt NORTHERN SPY
Red skin stre a ke d w ith yellow . Crisp,
E xce lle n t in pies
firm , ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt RED DELICIOUS
B rig h t red spe ckle d w ith yellow . Flesh is y e llo w -w h ite . Firm . S w e et ta s te
Eaten o u t o f hand
ROME BEAUTY
B rig h t red skin spe ckle d w ith yellow . Flesh is firm . M ild, ta rt-s w e e t
G re a t f o r ba kin g w hole
D u sty red w ith w h ite spo ts. Flesh is firm
A ll-p u rp o s e . In pies, sauces. Baking.
STAYMAN W INESAP
and crisp. Tart, a ro m a tic CORTLAND
S m ooth, shiny red skin. C risp te x tu re . S w e e t-ta rt. S tays w h ite a fte r c u ttin g lo ng er than o th e r v a rie tie s
A ll-p u rp o s e
HONEYCRISP
Yellow w ith good am o un t o f red blush. Very crisp. Very sw e e t
Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o se
Peachy-red, spe ckle d w ith yellow . Crisp
Eaten o u t o f hand
GALA
and ju icy. S w e et and z e sty CAMEO
D ull red, sp lo tch y, w ith som e ye llo w brow n colorin g. S w e e t-ta rt fla v o r and
A ll-p u rp o s e
firm te x tu re MACOUN
Ranges fro m m aroon to green w ith dull red blush, som e w h ite spo ts. C risp and ju ic y . S w e e t-ta rt
Eaten o u t o f hand. A ll-p u rp o s e
COX ORANGE PIPPIN
G olden b ro w n ish-o rang e w ith green tin g e . C risp and ju icy. S lig h tly ta r t
A ll-p u rp o s e
There are many varieties of apples available only within small regions. These apples share eating and cooking characteristics with those described here. If you have any questions, ask your purveyor or other reputable source for the best use for a particular variety.
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
131
berries
Berries tend to be highly perishable (with
the exception of cranberries) and are susceptible to
When fresh berries are out of season, IQF (individu ally quick frozen) berries are often a perfectly fine sub
bruising, molding, and overripening in fairly short
stitute. Dried berries are a delicious addition to winter
order. Inspect all berries and their packaging carefully
fruit compotes, stuffings, or baked goods. The following
before you accept them. Juice-stained cartons or juice
table covers a selection of berry varieties.
leaking through the carton is a clear indication that the fruit has been mishandled or is old. Once berries begin to turn moldy, the entire batch goes bad quickly.
B LU EB ER RIES
STRAW BERR IES
RA S PB ER R IE S
CR AN BE R R IE S
B LA C K B ER R IES
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
GO O SEBERRIES (WITH AND WITHOUT H USK)
CU RR ANTS
VARIETY BLACKBERRY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Large. P u rp lish -b la ck. Juicy. C u ltiv a te d
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, ja m s
and w ild BLUEBERRY
Sm all to m edium . B lu ish -p u rp le w ith d u s ty s ilv e r-b lu e "bloom ." S m ooth, round. Juicy fle sh . S w e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, jam s. D ried. To fla v o r vinegars
CRANBERRY
Sm all. Shiny red, som e w ith w h ite blush. Hard, dry. Sour
G enerally cooked. In relishes, sauces, je llie s , ju ices; in breads. Dried
GOOSEBERRY
Sm all to m edium . Yellow to green a lm o s t tra n s p a re n t skin. Round, sm ooth. Juicy. V ery t a r t
G enerally cooked; in je llie s , pies, o th e r baked goods
RASPBERRY
C lu ste rs o f tin y f r u its (drupes), each
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods,
c o n ta in in g a seed; may have "h a irs ” on surface. Red, black, or golden. Juicy. S w eet. D e w b e rry is a ty p e o f ra sp b e rry
syrups, purees, sauces, cordials, syrups. Jams. To fla v o r vinegars
Range o f sizes. Red. Shiny, h e a rtshaped; seeds on th e e x te rio r. S w e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith sh o rtca ke s. In baked goods, purees,
STRAWBERRY
berries
Berries
jam s, je llie s , ice cream CURRANT
Tiny, round fr u it. Range in co lo r fro m w h ite to red to black; s m o o th skin. S w e et
W h ite and red eaten o u t o f hand; black c u rra n ts used to make jam s, je llie s , syrups, and liq u o rs such as cassis
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
133
citrus fruits
Citrus fruits are characterized by
with brightly colored skins, as they are often dyed.
extremely juicy, segmented flesh, and skins that contain
When selecting grapefruits, lemons, and limes, on the
aromatic oils. Grapefruits, lemons, limes, and oranges
other hand, look for brightly colored fruits with a finely
are the most common citrus fruits. They range dramati
textured skin. Citrus can be stored at room temperature
cally in size, color, and flavor.
for a short time, but should be refrigerated if being held for an extended period. Citrus juice is available canned,
Select citrus that is firm and heavy in relation to its size, with no soft spots. Green hues or rough brown
bottled, frozen, and as frozen concentrate. The table
spots generally do not affect the flavor or texture of the
that follows covers a selection of citrus varieties.
fruit. For oranges, it is not necessary to select fruits
PINK G R APEFRU IT
M E Y E R LEM O N
LEMON
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
PERSIAN LIME
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
NAVEL ORANGE
Orange skin, re la tiv e ly sm ooth. Seedless. Sw eet
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested. Peel may be candied
BLOOD ORANGE
Thin orange skin w ith blush o f red. P ockets o f da rk red fle sh . A ro m a tic and sw e e t and ta r t
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced. In sauces; as fla v o rin g agent
M AND ARIN ORANGE
Several v a rie tie s , ranging in size fro m ve ry sm all to m edium . S eedless o r w ith seeds. T angerines and cle m e n tin e s are
Eaten o u t o f hand
citrus fruits
Citrus Fruits
M an da rin v a rie tie s TANGERINE
Orange; lig h tly pe bb led skin. M any seeds. Juicy. S w e et
E aten o u t o f hand. Juiced
TANGELO
Orange; s lig h tly pe bb led skin. S lig h tly ta p e re d at to p . Juicy. Sw eet
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced
SEVILLE ORANGE
T hick, rough skin. M any seeds. Tart, b itte r, a s trin g e n t
In m arm alade, sauce Bigarade, lique urs. Peel may be candied
Y ello w -gre en to deep ye llo w skin. Seeds. E x tre m e ly t a r t
Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. Peel may be candied
MEYER LEMON
Round. S m oo th skin. S w eeter, less acidic ju ic e than re g u la r lem ons
Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. In baked goods. Peel may be candied
PERSIAN LIME
D ark green, sm o o th skin. Seedless. T art
Juiced; zeste d. As fla v o rin g agent. Peel may be candied
KEY LIME
Sm all; round. Y ello w ish -gree n. T art
Juiced. As fla v o rin g agent. M o s t fa m o u s use is Key lim e pie
W H ITE /R E D /P IN K GRAPEFRUIT
Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith green blush. Flesh ranges fro m pale ye llo w
Eaten o u t o f hand. Juiced; zested. As fla v o rin g agent. Peel m ay be candied
LEMON
to deep red. S w e e t-ta rt. Seedless v a rie tie s ava ila ble U N IQ /U G LI FRUIT
H yb rid citru s . Y ellow -green, th ic k , loose,
Eaten o u t o f hand
w rin k le d skin. Seedless. P in k-ye llo w fle s h w ith ta n g y and sw e e t fla v o r
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
135
grapes
Technically, grapes are berries, but because
Store grapes, unwashed, in the refrigerator. Grapes
they include so many varieties and have so many differ
should be thoroughly washed and blotted dry just prior
ent uses, they are usually grouped separately. There are
to being eaten. Grapes are best served at room tempera
varieties of grapes, both with seeds and seedless, avail
ture. The following table covers a selection of grape
able for both eating and wine making.
varieties. Grapes from California will come into season in late
Grapes vary greatly in color from pale green to deep purple. Choose grapes that are plump and juicy, with
May for some red grapes, and June or July for Thomp
smooth skins that have a pale gray film (known as bloom).
son, and last into early December. Grapes in the eastern
Grapes should be firmly attached to their green stems.
United States have a shorter season, becoming available
There are varieties of grapes with skin that easily slips off
in August and then gone by November. Imported grapes
the fruit (Concord), and other varieties in which the skin
are generally available year-round; almost all imported
remains firmly intact (Thompson seedless). Grapes are
grapes come from Mexico and Chile.
also dried to make raisins and currants.
C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K CORINTH
136
THOM PSON S EE D LES S
RED EM PER O R
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
B LA C K
CONCORD
GTQ P
Grapes
^
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
THOMPSON SEEDLESS
M edium size. Green, th in skin. Seedless. Sw eet, m ild fla v o r
Table grape. A lso d rie d as raisins
CONCORD
B lue-black, th ic k skin slips ea sily fro m fle sh . S w e et fla v o r
In ju ice s, jam s, je llie s , syrups, and pre serve s
BLACK
Large. Deep p u rple skin. U sually w ith seeds. V ery sw e et fla v o r
Table grape
RED EMPEROR
L ig h t to deep red, w ith green stre a kin g ; th in , tig h tly a d he ring skin. S w e e t fla v o r. U sually w ith seeds
Table grape
C H A M P A G N E /B LA C K
V i-in c h dia m e te r. Red to lig h t purple. Seedless. Juicy and sw e e t
Table grape
RED FLAM E
H yb rid o f th e Thom pson grape. Seedless. Round in shape. B rig h t, m e d iu m -re d color. Firm crunch and sw e e t fla v o r
Table grape, fre s h f r u it ta r ts
RUBY RED
Seedless. E lo ng ated shape. Juicy and sw e et
Table grape
RED GLOBE
Seeded. Large and round. Low in acid. F a irly sw e e t
Table grape
TOKAY
Seeded. Elongated. Bland fla v o r
Table grape
EMPEROR
Seeded. Sm all and round. Low sugar, bland, c h e rry -lik e fla v o r
Table grape
Sm all. Pale red to go ld en in color. Very
Table grape
CORINTH
RELIANCE
;
fla v o rfu l BLACK BEAUTY
Seedless. Sm all and oblong. Rich, da rk color. B rig ht, sw eet, spicy fla v o r
Table grape
VENUS
Seedless. Large and round. Rich, da rk color. S w e et fla v o r; a s trin g e n t skin
Table grape
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
137
melons
These succulent, fragrant fruits are
that the melon ripened on the vine. When ripe, all
members of the gourd family, as are squashes and cu
muskmelons should become slightly soft at the stem
cumbers. They come in many varieties and range from
end and give off a sweet scent. Muskmelons must be
the size of an orange to that of a watermelon. The two
seeded before they are eaten.
major categories of melons are the muskmelon and the
The mildly flavored watermelon varieties should be symmetrical. Avoid those with flat sides, soft spots, or
watermelon. There are two kinds of muskmelons commonly available, the cantaloupe type and the honeydew type. Selecting melons and determining ripeness depends
damaged rinds. A ripe watermelon should have good ground color, without any white on the underside. Un ripe melons should be stored in a cool, dark place; ripe
greatly on the type. When selecting the cantaloupe-
or cut melon should be kept under refrigeration. The
type muskmelons, look for heavy fruits with a “full
following table covers a selection of melon varieties.
slip”—that is, a clean break from the stem—signifying
S E E D LE S S W ATERM ELON
HONEYDEW
CAN TALO U PE
138
CAVAILLO N
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
SANTA C LA U S
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Beige n e ttin g o r veinin g over su rfa ce o f skin. Flesh is pale orange, sm oo th , ju icy.
Eaten o u t o f hand. Served w ith cured m ea ts and cheeses. In ch ille d f r u it soups
m elons
Melons
muskmelons CANTALOUPE
Very sw e et and fra g ra n t PERSIAN
Large; ca n ta lo u p e -ty p e m uskm elon. D ark green skin w ith ye llo w n e ttin g .
Eaten o u t o f hand
B rig h t sa lm o n -co lo re d fle sh . S lig h tly sw e et HONEYDEW
S om ew hat oval; ho ne yde w -typ e m uskm elon. Cream y green rind, sm oo th
Eaten o u t o f hand. In chille d f r u it soups; as garnish; de sserts
skin. P aste l green, ju ic y fle sh . V ery sw e et CASABA
H o ne ydew -typ e m uskm elon. L ig h t green to ye llo w -g re e n skin w ith th ic k grooves. C re am -colore d, ju ic y fle sh . M ild, clean, re fre s h in g fla v o r
Eaten o u t o f hand
CRENSHAW
Large oval-shaped ho ne yde w -typ e m uskm elon. Y ello w ish -gree n, sm ooth, y e t rid g e d skin. S a lm o n -co lo re d fle sh ;
Eaten o u t o f hand
fra g ra n t, s p ic y . E x tre m e ly sw e e t
watermelons WATERMELON
Ranges fro m a large o b lo ng shape to a sm all round shape. Skin is green w ith lig h te r s trip e s . Rind is w h ite ; w a te ry fle s h ranges fro m re d -p in k to ye llo w
Eaten o u t o f hand. Rind is p ickled
to w h ite . Shiny black, brow n, o r w h ite seeds; som e v a rie tie s are seedless. S w e et and re fre s h in g
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
139
pears
with no scuffing, bruises, pits, or shriveling in the skin or neck. Keep unripe pears at room temperature, but
red. Unlike many other fruits, pears ripen after they are
refrigerate them once they are ripe because the colder
picked. When pears are not fully ripened, they can have
temperatures will inhibit the ripening process. Like
granules in the flesh known as stone cells, which give
apples, cut pears turn brown once they are exposed
them an unpleasant sandy or gritty texture. This is a
to the air. Storing them in acidulated water will help
positive characteristic because ripe pears are extremely
prevent browning, but may alter the true flavor of the
fragile and otherwise would not ship well. When choos
pear. The best uses for several varieties are given in the
ing pears, look for fruit that is mature and aromatic,
following table.
BO SC
140
This fruit comes in many varieties, ranging
from round to bell shaped, spicy to sweet, and yellow to
RED B A R T LET T / W ILLIAM
D’ANJO U
SECKEL
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
F O R ELLE
ASIAN
B A R T LET T / W ILLIAM
13 0 ) p
l-i VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
B A R T LE TT /W ILLIA M
Large; bell shaped. Ranges fro m green to red; sm o o th skin. Juicy. Sw eet
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached. In preserves. To fla v o r co rd ia ls
BOSC
Large; long neck, sq u a t b o tto m . Dark, ru sse te d skin. S w e e t-ta rt
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked, canned
Large; sq u a t all over. G re e n -ye llo w skin
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked
DANJOU
w ith green speckles, can have a red blush. S w e et SECKEL
Sm all. G olden skin w ith red blush. E x tre m e ly firm and crisp fle sh . S w e et
Poached, baked, canned
and spicy FORELLE
M edium . G olden w ith red blush and red speckles. Juicy, crisp fle s h w ith sw e et fla v o r
Eaten o u t o f hand. Poached, baked
ASIAN
Round. G olden orange skin w ith w h ite
Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt in salads
speckles. Firm , crunchy, ju ic y fle sh . M ild fla v o r
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
141
stone fruits
Peaches, nectarines, apricots,
Stone fruits are generally only available in the
plums, and cherries are often referred to as stone fruits
summer months, except for some imports from South
because they have one large central pit (stone). These
America. They will soften once picked but not gain any
fruits are usually divided into either “freestone” or
sweetness. Therefore, the fruit generally found in the
“clingstone” varieties. In a freestone fruit, as their name
marketplace will have been picked while still very firm
suggests, the seed, or stone, more easily separates itself
or hard to facilitate shipping without incurring damage
from the flesh, whereas the clingstone pit more tightly
to the soft, fully ripened fruit. Color is the best indica
adheres to the flesh of the fruit. Because of their ease of
tor of a fruit that is fully matured before picking; look
use, freestone varieties are more frequently utilized for
for full and vibrantly colored fruit with no hint of green.
cooking purposes that require the removal of the stone.
There should also be a full, sweet aroma indicative of
In addition to their fresh form, these fruits are also
the flavor when the fruit is softened. The following
commonly available canned, frozen, and dried. Many
table covers a selection of stone fruit varieties.
countries produce fruit brandies, wines, and cordials flavored with peaches, cherries, and plums.
fS w W H ITE P E A C H
142
PEACH
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
N E C T A R IN E
PLUM
IT A LIA N P L U M
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
PEACHES
M edium to large. Fuzzy skin, w h ite to ye llo w -o ra n g e to red. Very ju ic y fle sh . Two
Eaten o u t o f hand. In jam s and je llie s , ice cream , and de sserts. Canned and d ried
c la s s ific a tio n s : fre e s to n e and c lin g sto n e APRICOTS
M edium . Skin is s lig h tly fuzzy,
Eaten o u t o f hand. In ja m s and
and ye llo w to g o ld -o ra n g e w ith ro sy patches. D rie r tha n a peach.
je llie s , d e sse rts, ju ice. Dried
stone fruits
Stone Fruits
S w eet, s lig h tly t a r t NECTARINES
Large. S m ooth ye llo w and red skin. Firm b u t ju icy. S w e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. In salads and cooked d e sse rts
CHERRIES
Sm all. Ranges in shades fro m red to black; shiny skin. Firm
S w e e t v a rie tie s : eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods and
fle sh . A vaila ble b o th sw e e t and sour
syrups. D ried Sour v a rie tie s : in pies, preserves, and syrups. Dried
Sm all to m edium ; oval to round. Skin ranges fro m green to red to purple. Juicy. Very sw e et
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, preserves. Some v a rie tie s are d rie d as prunes
Sm all; oval. Purple skin. Y ellow -
Eaten o u t o f hand. In baked goods, pre serve s
PLUMS
ITALIAN PLUMS
green fle s h w ith ve ry sw e et fla v o r and s lig h tly fir m fle s h
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
143
other fruits
A wide variety of fruits fall in the
fruits, such as the passion fruit, can be considered rare,
“others” group, as they do not fit cleanly into another
while others are as common as the banana. The follow
category. Some of these fruits are tropical, while others
ing table provides information on these uncategorized
are grown in more temperate climates. Many of these
fruits.
P IN EAPPLE
COCONUT
BANANAS
PAPAYA
AVOCADO
RH UBARB
KIWI
144
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
VARIETY AVOCADO
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Pear shaped. Green to black le a th e ry skin,
In salads, dips (guacamole), salsa. On sandw iches
sm oo th o r bum py. Y ello w ish -gree n, cream y, b u tte r fle sh . M ild fla v o r BANAN A
Y ellow or red in e d ib le peel. S w eet, cream y fle s h
Eaten o u t o f hand. In puddings, baked goods, and o th e r de sse rts
PLANTAIN
Larger, s ta rc h ie r re la tiv e o f th e com m on banana. Hard green peel when unripe; ye llo w to m o ttle d to a lm o st black when ripe. Flesh is p o ta to -lik e fle s h when unripe; becom es in cre a sin g ly sw e et
Eaten cooked a t all stages o f ripeness. E xcelle nt frie d , baked, mashed
other fruits
Other Fruits
and s o ft as it ripens RHUBARB
Long red sta lks, tin g e d w ith green; leaves are
A lw ays eaten cooked. In pies,
poisonous. Crisp te x tu re ; s o fte n s when cooked.
ta rts , and preserves
Sour, t a r t fla v o r COCONUT
Round. Hard, brown, ha iry husk. Firm , cream y, w h ite m eat; th in , w a te ry liq u id in th e center. P rocessed in to coco nu t oil, co co n u t m ilk. D rypackaged sw e eten ed or unsw eetened, shre dd ed
Eaten raw o r cooked. In sw eet and savory p re p a ra tio n s such as chutney, cake, curry
o r fla k e d FIG
GUAVA
Sm all, round o r be ll shaped. S o ft, th in skin; ranges fro m p u rp le -b la c k to lig h t green. Tiny e d ib le seeds. E x tre m e ly sw eet. M o s t com m on v a rie tie s are M ission and C alim yrna O val shape. Thin skin; ranges fro m ye llo w to red to a lm o s t black when ripe. Flesh ranges fro m pale ye llo w to b rig h t red. E x tre m e ly sw e e t and
Eaten o u t o f hand. Dried. In preserves. A ll fo rm s eaten w ith cheese
E xce lle n t fo r jam s, preserves, and sauces; guava paste served w ith cheese
fra g ra n t. C om m only a va ila ble fre s h in green, unripe s ta te ; also a va ila ble canned, fro ze n , as paste KIWI
Sm all, o b lo n g be rry. Fuzzy brow n skin. B rig h t green fle sh , d o tte d w ith tin y ed ib le black seeds.
Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt in sauces and so rb e ts
S o ft, sw eet, t a r t MANGO
PINEAPPLE
Round to obtong-shape. Skin ranges fro m ye llo w
E xce lle n t f o r sw e e t sauces
to green and red. C ontains a single large f la t seed. S w eet, s o ft, b rig h t y e llo w fle sh . A vaila ble fre sh , canned, fro ze n , as puree, nectar, dried . M o s t com m on v a rie ty is Tom m y A tk in s
and s o rb e ts as w e ll as in chutneys. A lso used in its unripe, green fo rm in salads
Large cylinder. Rough, d ia m o n d -p a tte rn e d yellow
Eaten o u t o f hand. G rilled.
skin; long, sw o rd -like leaves s p ro u t fro m to p . Available fresh, frozen, canned, candied, dried. Com m only available v a rie tie s have e xtre m e ly
Juiced. In baked goods
fra g ra n t, juicy, and sw e et b rig h t y e llo w fle sh
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
145
Other Fruits, continued DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Oval shaped; 3 - 5 inches long w ith 5 d is tin c tiv e
Eaten o u t o f hand. In f r u it
rib s th a t e xte nd o u tw a rd fro m end to end. Yellow to green. C ro sscut slices resem ble
salads, de sserts. As a garnish
VARIETY STAR F R U IT / CARAM BOLA
stars. S w eet, so m e tim e s m ild ly sour fla vo r, re m in is c e n t o f a co m b in a tio n o f pineapple, kiw i, and apple. Firm te x tu re d fle sh PAPAYA
POMEGRANATE
Pear-shaped; ab ou t 6 inches long. G old en -yellow skin. C e nter c a v ity packed w ith black, round, ed ib le seeds. B rig h t pin kish -o ra n g e fle s h when ripe. F ragra nt, sw e et s ilk fle sh . A lso a va ila ble as nectar, puree, dried A pple -shap ed ; fra g ra n t. B rig h t red, le a th e ry skin. C ontains hundreds o f tin y red fle s h covered ed ib le seeds, s e p a ra te d in to p a cke ts by th in cre a m -co lo re d m em branes. Juicy. Very t a r t and sw e et. A lso ava ila ble as ju ic e c o n c e n tra te and m olasses
PASSION FRUIT
Egg-shaped; ab ou t 3 inches long. D im pled skin, da rk p u rple when ripe. E x tre m e ly fra g ra n t
Eaten o u t o f hand, both rip en ed and in its green s ta te ; unripe, in Asian salads. Enzyme (papain) used to te n d e riz e m eat Eaten o u t o f hand, seeds only. O fte n a garnish or pressed f o r ju ice
E xce lle n t in d e sse rts and beverages
yellow , s w e e t-ta rt fle sh , fle c k e d w ith edible black seeds. A vaila ble fre sh , pureed and frozen ; also as canned n e cta r and co n ce n tra te PERSIMMON
Tom ato-shaped. M o s t com m o nly ava ila ble
Eaten o u t o f hand. Hachiya
v a rie tie s : Hachiya and Fuyu. R ed-orange skin and fle sh . S m ooth, cream y te x tu re when ripe
m u st be c a re fu lly ripened b e fo re eaten; e x c e lle n t in pies and puddings. Fuyu eaten crisp or s o ft and fu lly ripened; good in salads
(Hachiya); s o ftly y ie ld in g like a to m a to (Fuyu). T angy-sw eet fla v o r. A vaila ble fre s h or pureed and fro z e n QUINCE
Looks and ta s te s s im ila r to an apple; has te x tu re s im ila r to a pear. Y ello w -skin . F lora l arom a when ripe. C risp w h ite d ry fle sh ; tu rn s pink when cooked. A s trin g e n t raw; sw e e t cooked.
QUINCE
146
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
M u s t be cooked b e fo re e ating. E xce lle n t in jam s, je llie s , preserves, and baked ite m s
cabbage family The cabbage (brassica) fam
form a head, but are prized for their roots. Turnips
ily includes a wide range of vegetables. Some members
and rutabagas are also members of the brassica family, but
of this family, such as cauliflower and green cabbage,
they are more commonly thought of as root vegetables.
are referred to as heading cabbages. Others, such as
The following table covers a selection of brassica varieties.
bok choy, form loose heads, while other varieties do not
m '■ ■
SA VO Y CABBAG E
RED CAB BAG E
B R U S S E LS SPROUTS
CAU LIFLO W ER
N A PA CA B BA G E
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
147
cabbage family, continued
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
O O "
Cabbage Family
o "
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BROCCOLI
Deep green flo re ts , som e have purple cast. Pale green, crunchy stem s
Raw. S team ed, boiled, sauteed;
GTQ rD
baked in casseroles p
BROCCOLI RABE/R A PIN I
Deep green. Long, th in ste m s w ith sm all flo re ts ; le afy. S tron g, b itte r fla v o r
S team ed, braised; sauteed w ith olive oil, g a rlic, and crushed red pepper fla k e s
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Round, cabbage shaped, sm all; a b o u t 1 inch in dia m e te r. L ig h t green. S tro n g fla v o r
S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed
BOK CHOY/CHINESE W HITE CABBAGE
Loose head. Green to w h ite crisp stem s; ten der, deep green leaves. M ild fla v o r
Raw in salads. S tir-frie d , steam ed, b o ile d
GREEN CABBAGE
T ig h t, round heading cabbage. L ig h t to
Steamed, braised, sauteed. Ferm ented in sa u e rk ra u t and kim chi. Raw in
m edium green. C risp te x tu re . S om ew hat s tro n g fla v o r RED CABBAGE
T igh t, round heading cabbage. Deep p u rple to m aroon; ste m s on in d ivid u a l
"< !
salads and colesla w S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in salads and colesla w
leaves are w h ite , g ivin g m arbled appearance when cut. C risp te x tu re . S om ew hat s tro n g fla v o r NAPA/CHINESE CABBAGE
E lo ng ated heading cabbage. Broad w h ite ste m s w ith lig h t to m edium green tip s . S o ft, w rin k ly leaves. M ild fla v o r
S team ed, braised, sauteed. Raw in salads and colesla w
SAVOY CABBAGE
M o d e ra te ly tig h t, round heading cabbage. T extured, w rin k ly , da rk green leaves. M ild fla v o r
Raw. S team ed, braised, sauteed
CAULIFLOW ER
W hite, green, o r purple flo w e rin g head w ith green leaves. S om e w h at s tro n g fla v o r
Raw. S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed, ro a ste d ; baked in casseroles
KO HLRABI/CABBAGE TURNIP
Round, tu rn ip -s h a p e d bulb w ith stem s and leaves a tta ch e d . W h ite w ith purple tin t. Tender. M ild ly sw e et
Raw. S team ed, boiled, s tir - fr ie d
KALE
Deep green, som e tim es w ith purple hues. R u ffle d leaves. M ild cabbage fla v o r
S auteed, boiled, steam ed. In soups
COLLARD GREENS
Large, fla t, rounded green leaves. S im ila r to cabbage and kale in fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, braised; boiled w ith a ham hock
TURNIP GREENS
Broad, f la t green leaves. Tough, coarse te x tu re . S tro n g ly fla v o re d
Steam ed, sauteed, braised
BROCCOLINI
B rig h t green, long s le n d e r s ta lk s w ith sm all flo re ts . Crunchy. M ild, sw eet; ta s te s like a cross be tw ee n asparagus
Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed, g rille d
and b ro c c o li BABY BOK C H O Y/ PAKCH O Y
Sm all v a rie ty o f bok choy. L ig h t green, te n d e r leaves. C risp sta lks
B raised, s tir- fr ie d , steam ed. In soups
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
149
soft-shell squash, cucumber, and eggplant Soft-shell squash, cucumber,
varieties cook rather quickly, while cucumbers are most often eaten raw. Select soft-shell squashes, eggplants,
and eggplant are all vegetables that are picked when
and cucumbers that are on the smaller side, firm,
they are immature to ensure a delicate flesh, tender
brightly colored, and without bruising. These varieties
seeds, and thin skins. Soft-shell squash and eggplant
should all be refrigerated.
CHAYOTE B A B Y PATTYPAN SQUASH
ENGLISH CU CU M B ER
ZUCCHINI
JAPAN ES E EG G PLAN T
S T A N D A R D /PU R P LE EG G PLA N T
YELLO W SQUASH
SQ UASH BLO SSO M
K IR B Y CU CU M B ER
WHITE EG G PLA N T
STAN D AR D /SLICIN G CU CU M B ER
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
USES
S m all to m edium d isk shape w ith scallop ed edge. L ig h t green to yellow , so m e tim e s spe ckle d or s tre a ke d w ith da rk green. Tender. M ild fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, frie d
M edium to large pear shape. Ligh t green w ith deep
S team ed, sauteed, s tir-frie d , s tu ffe d and baked, frie d
soft-shell squash PATTYPAN
CHAYOTE/M IRLITO N
"puckers" between halves. W hite flesh surrounding one seed. M ild fla v o r CROOKNECK
Long, b e n t n a rrow neck a tta c h e d to a la rg e r base.
S team ed, sauteed, frie d
Yellow skin, so m e tim e s w ith bum ps. L ig h t ye llo w fle sh . D e lica te fla v o r YELLO W
E lo ng ated pear shape. Yellow skin. C re am -colore d fle sh . M ild fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, frie d , g rille d
ZUCCHINI
N arrow , c y lin d ric a l shape. Green w ith fle c k s o f ye llo w o r w h ite . Cream y fle s h w ith green hue. M ild fla v o r
g rille d . In quick breads and
SQUASH BLOSSOM S
S o ft, ye llo w -o ra n g e flo w e rs w ith a green stem . S qu ash -like fla v o r; m ild fla v o r
S team ed, sauteed, frie d , f r it t e r s Raw in salads. S tu ffe d , baked, sauteed, frie d . In fritta ta s , as garnish
cucumbers STANDARD/SLICING CUCUMBER
Long, narrow , ta p e rin g a t ends. Thin green skin, so m e tim e s w ith pale green s p o ttin g . C ream y w h ite fle sh ; seedy. C risp and re fre sh in g ; m ild fla v o r
KIRBY
S h o rte r tha n sta n d a rd cucu m be r b u t w ith same dia m e te r. Green skin, so m e tim e s w ith w a rts . W h ite fle sh . Very crunchy te x tu re . M ild fla v o r
E N G LIS H /B U R P LE S S / HO THO USE/ SEEDLESS
P ickled or raw. In salads, relish, and uncooked sauces such as ra ita Eaten o u t o f hand. E xcelle nt p ickle d
Long, even c y lin d e r w ith som e rid gin g. V ib ra n t green skin. C risp te x tu re ; no seeds. M ild fla v o r
P ickled. In salads and cru d ite s
Rounded o r e lon gate d pear shape. Deep p u rp le black skin w ith a sheen; green calyx a tta c h e d at
S tew ed, braised, roa ste d, g rille d , frie d ; p o pu lar dishes include ra ta to u ille , baba
eggplant STANDARD/PURPLE
th e to p . O ff-w h ite fle sh . Can be s lig h tly b itte r, e sp e cia lly la rg e r veg etab le s; o th e rw is e sw e e t
JAPANESE
W HITE
Long, narrow, cylinder; so m e tim es arched. Deep pu rp le -b la ck s tria te d skin w ith a sheen; purple to black calyx a tta ch e d a t th e to p . Tender flesh . M ild ly sw eet May be long, round, or egg shaped. M ilky w hite, som etim es w ith purple streaks; tou ghe r skin. Firm, sm ooth flesh. S ligh tly b itte r
ganoush, and eg gp lan t Parm esan S tew ed, braised, roa ste d, g rille d , frie d
S tew ed, braised, roasted, g rille d , frie d
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
soft-shell squash, cucumber, and eggplant
Soft-Shell Squash, Cucumber, and Eggplant
hard-shell squash
Hard-shell squashes,
also members of the gourd family, are characterized by
Select squashes that are heavy for their size, with a hard, unblemished rind. Hard-shell squashes may be
their hard, thick skins and seeds. These thick skins and
stored in a cool, dark place for many weeks without de
yellow to orange flesh require longer cooking than their
teriorating in quality.
soft-shelled counterparts.
BLU E H UBBARD RED KURI
SPAGHETTI
CARN IVAL
K ABO CH A
STRIPED EDDY
SW EET DUM PLING
DELICATA
WHITE AND ORANGE JA C K BE LITTLE PU M PKINS
152
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
B UTTERNU T SQ UASH
VARIETY*
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
ACORN
A corn shape w ith deep ridges. Dark green, usually w ith som e orange. Deep orange fle sh . S lig h tly s trin g y te x tu re . S w e et fla v o r
Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed w ith honey or m aple syrup. In soups
BUTTERNUT
E lo ng ated pear shape. Tan skin. B rig h t
Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed
orange, cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r
w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups
Large. D u sty green to b rig h t orange, can also be blue. Very w a rty skin. Y ellow -
Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups
HUBBARD
hard-shell squash
Hard-Shell Squash
orange fle sh ; gra in y te x tu re . S lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r PUM PKIN
W ide v a rie ty o f pu m pkins w ith d iffe re n t uses: pie (round, b rig h t orange, green stem ); Jack Be L ittle o r m ini (m in ia tu re versions, w h ite o r orange); cheese (large, fla t, beige) are com m on v a rie tie s .
Baked, pureed, sim m ered; glazed w ith honey o r m aple syrup. In soups, pies, and qu ick breads. Seeds, known as p e p ita s, are ro a ste d
Cream y fle sh . S w e et fla v o r SPAGHETTI
W a te rm e lo n shape. B rig h t ye llo w skin and fle sh ; a fte r it is cooked, th e fle s h se p a ra te s in to strand s. M ild fla v o r
S team ed, ro a ste d
DELICATA/SW EET
O blong shape. Yellow skin w ith green s trip e s . B rig h t ye llo w fle sh . E x tre m e ly
S team ed, ro a ste d
POTATO SQUASH
sw e e t fla v o r
* There are many varieties of hard-shell squashes available only within small regions. See the photo on facing page for some harder-to-find varieties.
c h a p t e r s » FRUIT. V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
153
lettuce
Each of the thousands of lettuce varieties
As with most greens, it is very important to thor
can be classified into one of the following categories:
oughly wash lettuce, as dirt and grit tend to hide between
butterhead, crisphead, romaine, or leaf. Select lettuce
the leaves. Never submerge lettuce in water for an
that is crisp, never wilted or bruised. Lettuce should not
extended amount of time, and be sure that it is dried
be washed, cut, or torn until just before service. Store
well after washing (a salad spinner is great for this).
lettuce in the refrigerator, covered loosely with damp
The following table covers several varieties of lettuce.
paper towels. BOSTON
ICEBERG
%
,
RED LEAF
ROM AINE
' ^
W
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
L o ose ly fo rm e d heads. S o ft, ve ry te n d e r
In salads. Braised
lettuce
Lettuce
butterhead BOSTON
leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild , sw eet, d e lica te BIBB
L o ose ly fo rm e d heads; sm a lle r tha n B oston.
In salads. Braised
S o ft, ve ry te n d e r leaves, v ib ra n t green. M ild, sw eet, d e lic a te
crisphead and romaine ICEBERG
T ig h t heading le ttu c e . Pale green leaves. Very m ild
In salads, shredded or served as a wedge. G arnish f o r M exican fo o d
ROMAINE
Long c y lin d ric a l head. O u te r leaves are ribbed; da rk green leaves, becom ing lig h te r on th e in te rio r. O u te r leaves are s lig h tly b itte r, inner
In salads, esp e cia lly Caesar salad. Braised
leaves m ild and sw e et
leaf RED LEAF/GREEN LEAF
Loose heading le ttu c e . M ay be green or red tip p e d ; ten der, crisp leaves. M ild, becom ing
In salads, w ra ps in Asian cuisine
b itte r w ith age OAK LEAF
Loose heading le ttu c e . S ca llo p in g on ten der,
In salads
crisp leaves. N u tty fla v o r
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
155
bitter salad greens
Bitter salad greens are
arugula to crimson heads of radicchio. Selection cri
tender enough to be eaten raw in salads, but may also
teria and handling practices for bitter salad greens are
be sauteed, steamed, grilled, or braised. There are many
similar to those for lettuce. The following table covers
varieties that fit into this category, from green, leafy
several varieties of bitter salad greens.
ESCA R O LE
FRISEE
RADICCHIO
BELGIAN ENDIVE
A R U G U LA
M A C H E /L A M B 'S LETTUCE W ATERCRESS
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
ARU G U LA/RO CKET
Rounded " te e th ” on th e ends o f te n d e r leaves; v ib ra n t green. P eppery fla v o r
In salads, pe sto, soups. Sauteed
BELGIAN ENDIVE
T ight, ob lo ng head. W hite, crisp leaves w ith yellow ish -gree n or red a t tip s. M ild ly b itt e r fla v o r
In salads. G rilled, roa ste d, braised
FRISEE
Thin, cu rly leaves; w h ite w ith ye llo w ish green tip s . M ild ly b itte r
In salads, le ttu c e m ixes such as m esclun
ESCAROLE
H eading le ttu c e . Scalloped, c rin k ly edges on green leaves. S lig h tly b itte r fla v o r
In salads and soups. Braised, stew ed
M A C H E /L A M B ’S LETTUCE
Loose bunches. Thin, rounded dark green leaves. Very tender, D elicate, sw e et fla v o r
In salads. S team ed
RADICCHIO
Round or o b lo ng heads. Firm , deep red to p u rple leaves, w h ite veining. B itte r fla v o r
In salads. G rilled, sauteed, baked, braised
WATERCRESS
Sm all, scallop ed d a rk-gre en, crisp
In salads, sandw iches, and soups. As a garnish
leaves. M u s ta rd -lik e , p e p p e ry fla v o r
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
bitter salad greens
Bitter Salad Greens
157
cooking greens
Cooking greens are the ed
are similar to those for lettuce and bitter salad greens.
ible leaves of certain plants that are often too fibrous to
The following table covers several varieties of cooking
eat without first being sauteed, steamed, or braised. Se
greens. See the cabbage family table on page 149 for in
lection criteria and handling practices for cooking greens
formation on kale, collard greens, and turnip greens.
SW ISS CHARD M USTARD GREEN S
BEET GREENS
BABY SPINACH
DANDELION GREEN S
RAINBOW SW ISS CHARD
158
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
B A B Y SWISS CHARD (WHITE AND RED)
O O
Cooking Greens
O
FT
i—*• VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BEETGREENS
F la t leaves; deep green, red rib bin g. M ild, e a rth y fla v o r
Steam ed, sauteed, braised
DANDELION GREENS
Narrow , to o th -e d g e d leaves; tender, crisp; b rig h t green. M ild ly b itt e r fla v o r
Salads, steam ed, sauteed, braised
Scalloped, n a rrow leaves; d a rk green;
S team ed, sauteed, sim m ered, braised
2
QTQ GTQ i-5 O) CD
P MUSTARD GREENS
co
crisp. P eppery, m u sta rd fla vo r. Also ava ila ble fro z e n and canned SPINACH
Leaves may be d e ep ly lobed o r fla t, d e pe nd ing upon v a rie ty ; deep green. M ild fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble fro z e n
In salads and sandw iches. Steam ed, sauteed, braised
SWISS CHARD
Lobed, w rin k le d te n d e r da rk green
In soups. S team ed, sauteed, braised. B oth s ta lk s and leaves are eaten
leaves. C risp sta lks; s ta lk s and rib s may be w h ite , yellow , or red. M ild fla v o r
CHEF'S NOTES ON COOKING GREENS Cooking greens are also known as pot
greens can also be eaten at any stage of
herbs. These vegetables are high in fiber,
development. If they are tender and young,
iron, calcium, and photochemicals, such
they may be cooked briefly or eaten raw.
as vitamins C and A, and folic acid. They
Always look for cool and moist greens
are considered a “superfood,” indicating
with a rich green color and no signs of
that they are one of the most naturally
dryness, yellowing, or wilted edges. Store
nutrient-rich foods. Most cooking greens
any green vegetables in a perforated plastic
are considered cool season vegetables,
bag, or wrapped in a cotton towel in the
making them a good choice for gardens in
refrigerator.
areas with shorter growing seasons. These
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
159
mushrooms
Mushrooms are a fungus that ex
a sign of age. Conversely, when selecting portobellos—
ists in thousands of varieties. Cultivated mushrooms,
mature cremini—it is desirable for the gills to be open
commonly available today, include the familiar white
signifying a concentration of flavor. Mushrooms that
mushroom and varieties such as portobello, cremini,
are to be cooked whole should be of equal size so that
shiitake, and oyster mushrooms. Wild mushrooms,
they cook evenly. Mushrooms should be stored in the refrigerator, in
prized for their concentrated, earthy flavor, include the cepe (porcini), chanterelle, morel, and the truffle.
a single layer, covered with damp paper towels. When
Knowing your purveyor is important when you have
you want to use them, wipe mushrooms with a damp
wild mushrooms on the menu, as many varieties Eire
paper towel, or very quickly rinse them in cold water
poisonous. Some varieties of mushrooms are available
and drain immediately. Mushrooms should never be
canned, frozen, and dried.
submerged in water, since they absorb it like a sponge
Select mushrooms that are firm, without blemishes or breaks. If using varieties such as the white or crem
and will become mushy. See the following table for in formation on varieties of mushrooms.
ini, the caps should be tightly closed, as opened gills are
O YSTER
M AITAKE
PO RTO BELLO
SHIITAKE
CREMINI WHITE LO BSTER
C H A N TE R ELLE M ATSU TAKE
M O REL
160
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
J VARIETY WHITE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
W h ite to b u ff colore d. Round cap, V i- 3 inches in dia m e te r; "b u tto n " re fe rs to the
Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In sauces, soups, stew s; s tu ffe d and baked
s m a lle s t o f th is v a rie ty . F irm te x tu re w ith m ild, w oodsy fla v o r CEPE/PORCINI
CHANTERELLE
Pale brow n, 1 -1 0 inches in d iam e te r. S m ooth, m e a ty te x tu re . P ungent fla vo r. A vaila ble d ried
Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In sauces, soups, stew s
G olden to a p ric o t; tru m p e t shaped. Chewy
Raw o r cooked. M a rin a te d . In
te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r
sauces, soups, stew s
CREMINI
D ark brown, round cap, V 2 - 2 inches in diam e te r. Firm te x tu re
Raw or cooked. In sauces
ENOKI
W h ite to b u ff; long, slender, s ta lk -lik e
Raw o r cooked. In salads and soups. As garnish
m ushroom s. Crunchy te x tu re . M ild, f r u ity fla v o r LOBSTER
Deep red, m o ttle d color. Large fungus w ith
m ushroom s
Mushrooms
S auteed. In sauces
very dense te x tu re and m eaty fla v o r MOREL
Tan to ve ry da rk brow n; cone-shaped, ho llo w cap; 2 - 4 inches in height. F irm b u t spongy te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d
S auteed. In sauces and salads
PORTOBELLO
Dark brown; opened, f la t caps; 3 - 6 inches in diam eter. Dense, m eaty te x tu re . S tro n g ly fla vo re d
Sauteed, g rille d . In sandw iches and salads
OYSTER
Cream y to s ilv e ry gray; c lu s te r o f fa n shaped m ushroom s. D e lica te te x tu re . P eppery fla v o r when raw; m ellow s when cooked
Sauteed, b ro ile d
SHIITAKE
Tan to brow n; 3 - 6 inches in diam e te r. M e a ty te x tu re . E arth y fla vo r. A vaila ble d rie d
Sauteed, b ro ile d , g rille d . S tem s used in s to c k
Black o r o ff-w h ite ; irre g u la rly shaped,
S erved raw over pasta. In sauces and ris o tto s
TRUFFLE
w rin k le d . P e rfu m e y fragra nce ; ea rth y, g a rlic k y fla vo r. A vaila ble canned, fro ze n , and as fla v o re d oil MATSUTAKE
Dark brow n. Dense, m e a ty te x tu re . N u tty , fra g ra n t fla v o r
Braised, g rille d , steam ed, frie d
M AITA K E /H E N -O F -T H E WOODS
G rayish-brow n. T ig h tly clu ste re d , ove rla pping , fa n -sh ap ed caps; w h ite stem s. Chewy te x tu re . Deep fla v o r
S auteed
Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
161
onion family Onions, invaluable to any kitch
Select dry onions, garlic, and shallots that are heavy
en, belong to the lily family. They fall into two main
for their size and have tight-fitting, dry, papery skins.
categories, reflecting the state in which they are used:
Green onions should be green with white bottoms. They
dry (cured) and green (fresh). Green onions include seal
should be crisp, not wilted. Dry onions, shallots, and
lions, leeks, and ramps. Dry onions are categorized by
garlic should be stored in a relatively cool, dry area of the
size and color. They can range in size from pearl to Span
kitchen in the bags or boxes in which they are received.
ish, and from white to yellow to red in color.
Green onions should be refrigerated and must be thor
Garlic, shallots, and onions (green and dry) all share a pungent flavor and aroma. Dry onions make up half
oughly washed before they are used (leeks tend to have dirt between each layer). Chives are also a member of the onion family, though
of the most fundamental aromatic combination, mirepoix. Green onions, whether cooked (leeks) or raw (scallions),
their main culinary application is similar to that of fresh
impart a sweetly subtle onion flavor. Shallots and garlic are
herbs. See the following table for more information on
the flavoring agents in innumerable preparations.
onions.
P EA R L ONIONS RED, WHITE, AND GOLD
i
SPANISH ONION
- m
CIPOLLINI ONIONS
GARLIC
w GREEN ONIONS
162
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
O
0
i—*•
Onion Family
j
VARIETY
O
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
P
dry PEARL/CREAM ER
Sm all, W in c h -d ia m e te r, oval onion. M ay be w h ite or red. M ild fla v o r
B oiled, pickled , brined; as garnish in drinks. In ste w s and braises
BOILING
Sm all, 1 -in ch -d ia m e te r, round onion. W h ite or ye llo w skin. M ild fla v o r
In ste w s and soups. P ickled
CIPOLLINI
Sm all, round, fla tte n e d onion. Yellow, p a pe ry skin.
R oasted, g rille d . In casseroles
S lig h tly sw e e t fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble pre se rve d in o il GLOBE
SPANISH /JU M BO
SWEET
M edium , round, 1 - 4 inches in diam e te r. M ay be w h ite , yellow , or red. P ungent fla v o r
In stew s, soups, sauces; c o m p o n e n t in m ire p o ix
Large, 3 -in ch or m ore dia m e te r, round; known as C olossal when d ia m e te r exceeds 3V2 inches. Yellow, red, or w h ite . M ild fla v o r
A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces, braises, stew s; com p on ent o f m ire p o ix
Large, so m e tim e s fla tte n e d . W h ite to yellow .
Raw in salads. G rilled, sauteed, frie d
S w e e t fla v o r. V a rie tie s include W alla W alla, V id a lia , M aui GARLIC
Sm all bulb, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Papery w h ite o r re d -s tre a k e d skin, encasing V 2- to 1-inchlong in d ivid u a l cloves, also covered w ith papery
A ro m a tic in stocks, soups, sauces, braises, stew s. R oasted and pureed
skin. Pungent flavo r. E lephant ga rlic: m ore m ild ly fla v o re d , bulb can be as large as a sm all g ra p e fru it. G arlic greens are also available; m ild ly fla v o re d ; used much like scallions SHALLOTS
Small, 1 -2 inches in length; usually cloves bunched to g e th e r. L ig h t brown papery skin. W h ite -p u rp le
A ro m a tic in soups, sauces, braises, stew s. F ried as garnish
fle sh . M ild fla v o r
green LEEKS
Long, th ic k c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem end, g ra d u a lly becom ing dark green a t to p . Tender. S u b tle onion fla v o r
A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces, braises, stew s; com p on ent o f w h ite m ire p o ix. S auteed, g rille d , stea m e d, braised, frie d as garnish
R A M P S /W ILD
Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith f la t leaves; w h ite stem end, so m e tim e s w ith a pu rp le hue, gra d u a lly be com ing green a t to p . G a rlicky fla v o r. H ighly seasonal
A ro m a tic in sto cks, soups, sauces,
Long, th in c y lin d e r w ith c y lin d ric a l leaves; w h ite s te m end gra d u a lly becom ing green a t to p . M ild, grassy onion fla v o r
A ro m a tic in s tir-fr ie s . Raw in salads; as garnish
LEEKS
GREEN O N IO N S / SCALLIONS
braises, stew s. Sauteed, g rille d , steam ed, braised, frie d as garnish. P ickled
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
163
peppers
There are two basic types of peppers:
imperative to take precautions when handling chiles;
sweet peppers and chiles. Sweet peppers are sometimes
wear gloves, wash cutting surfaces and knives, and
called bell peppers because of their shape. Sweet pep
avoid contact with sensitive tissue such as the eyes. Chiles are available fresh, canned, dried (whole,
pers of various colors have similar flavors, though red
flaked, and ground), and smoked. Frequently, dried and/or
and yellow varieties tend to be sweeter. Chiles, an important ingredient in many cuisines, are available in various sizes, colors, and levels of heat.
smoked chiles are given a name different than their fresh counterpart (e.g., smoked jalapenos are called chipotles). When selecting both categories, look for firm, heavy
Capsaicin is the compound that gives a chile its heat, and it is most potent in the white ribs inside the pepper.
peppers, with tight, glossy skin, without puckering or
Generally, the hotter chiles are smaller in size. It is
wrinkling. The flesh should be relatively thick and crisp.
RED, YELLO W , AND GREEN SWEET
M AN ZANA
RED AND GREEN HABANER0
FRESH AND DRIED THAI BIRD CHILES
S ER RAN O ANCHO GUAJILLO
ANAHEIM
JA LA PEN O
FRESNO
POBLAN O
CHIPOTLE
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
VARIETY SWEET PEPPERS
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Bell-shaped; 3 -5 inches long, 2 - 4 inches
In salads. Raw; sauteed, g rille d , ro a ste d , s tu ffe d and baked
w ide. Green, red, yellow , o r purple. Crisp, ju ic y fle sh . M ild, sw e et fla v o r. R oasted pe pp ers are a va ila ble canned and b o ttle d
peppers
Peppers
chiles/hot peppers (listed in order from mild to hot) A N A H E IM /C A LIFO R N IA
Long, narrow , ta p e re d . Green; red v a rie ty is known as C olorado. S w eet, m ild fla vo r. A lso a va ila ble dried , called m a riso l
In salsa. S tu ffe d
POBLANO
Large, ta p e re d , fla tte n e d cone; 4 -5 inches long, 3 inches w ide. Very dark green, so m e tim e s w ith a black hue. M ild fla v o r. A lso ava ila ble d ried , called ancho o r m ulato
C om m only s tu ffe d , as chiles rellenos. In soups and stew s
FRESNO
Sm all to m edium , ta p e re d ; 2 - 3 inches long. Deep green o r red. Range fro m m ild to m edium hot
In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups
JALAPENO
Sm all to m edium ; ta p e re d chile; 2 inches long, 3/ t inch w ide. Deep green or red. Range fro m h o t to v e ry hot. A vaila ble
In rice, salads, sauces, salsa, soups, stew s, relish. S tu ffe d
canned and b o ttle d . Sm oked and d rie d called c h ip o tle s SERRANO
Sm all, skinny; I V 2 inches long. Dark
In sauces, salsa
green to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble canned in o il o r p ickle d . D ried, in w hole or po w d ered fo rm , called chile seco THAI
Tiny, thin ; 1 inch long, V * inch w ide. Green to red. Very hot. A lso a va ila ble dried,
In sauces, s tir-frie s , as garnish
called b ird chiles HABANERO
Sm all; la n te rn shaped. Pale green to orange. E x tre m e ly hot; a s im ila r v a rie ty is th e S cotch bonnet. A lso a va ila ble
In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d co n d im e n ts
d rie d M ANZANA
Sm all, apple-shaped; I V 2 - 2 inches long. Red, yellow , o r green; black seeds in a pod th a t pull aw ay fro m th e fle sh . S im ila r in he at to habanero pe pp ers
In sauces, m e a t rubs, b o ttle d co n d im e n ts
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
165
pod and seed vegetables
This group
snap peas, snow peas, green beans, and wax beans. In
includes fresh legumes (peas, beans, and bean sprouts),
other cases, the peas or beans (such as limas, scarlet
as well as corn and okra. All varieties are best eaten
runners, and black-eyed peas) are removed from their
young, when they are at their sweetest and most tender.
inedible pods. Select vegetables that are crisp, brightly
If possible, purchase pod and seed vegetables from lo
colored, and free of discoloration. Peas, beans, and corn
cal growers to minimize the time between picking and
are also available dried, as discussed in Chapter 10.
serving. This is especially important with peas and corn. Some fresh peas and beans are eaten whole, when the pods are still fleshy and tender—for example, sugar GREEN BEAN
HARICOTS VERTS
SNOW PEA
CHINESE LO N G / YARD LONG BEAN
CORN
G R EEN / EN G LISH / G ARDEN PEA FAVA BEAN
SU G A R S N A P P EA
Y ELLO W ROM ANO BEAN GREEN RO M AN O BEAN
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
ED A M A M E
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CORN
Papery husk su rro u n d in g s ilk -lik e hair and long, th ic k cobs. Y ellow a n d /o r w h ite kernels. Juicy, sw eet. C om m only a va ila ble canned and fro ze n
B oiled, steam ed, g rille d . O fte n cut o f f th e cob f o r soups, cream ed corn, succotash, and o th e r side dishes
Long, th in , ed ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all
B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
beans GREEN BEAN
seeds. D ull green; s im ila r v a rie tie s include a pale ye llo w (wax bean) o r p u rp le (B urgundy bean, w hich tu rn s green when cooked). C om m only a va ila ble canned and fro z e n HARICOTS V ER TS/ FRENCH GREEN BEAN
Long, v e ry th in , e d ib le pods c o n ta in in g sm all seeds. D ull green. V e lve ty skin
B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
ROMANO BEAN
W ide, fla t- lo o k in g ed ib le pods. D ull green. M ore pronounced fla v o r tha n green beans
B oiled, steam ed, sauteed, roa ste d
CHINESE LONG B E A N /
D ull green, v e lv e ty skin; V * inch th ic k , 1 8 -3 6 inches long. Edible pods c o n ta in in g sm all seeds. F le xib le te x tu re
Sauteed, s tir - fr ie d
LIM A BEAN
Long, large, in e d ib le pods; large, plum p, kid ne y-shap ed beans. Green pods; lig h t green beans. Known as b u tte r beans in th e so u th e rn U n ite d S ta te s. A lso a va ila ble fro ze n , canned, d ried
B oile d and sauteed; pureed. Served h o t o r cold. In succotash
FAVA BEAN
Long, large, in e d ib le green pods; large, fla t, kid ne y-shap ed beans. Tough lig h t green
YARD-LONG BEAN
pod and seed vegetables
Pod and Seed Vegetables
B oile d and sauteed; pureed. S erved h o t o r cold
skin m ust be peeled aw ay to reveal th e lig h t green bean. A lso a va ila ble dried CRANBERRY BEAN
Large, in ed ible, lig h t ta n pod, fle c k e d w ith red. O ff-w h ite and re d -s p lo tc h e d beans. N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble d ried
B oile d and sauteed; pureed. Served h o t o r cold. In soup
EDAM AM E/G REEN SOYBEAN
Fuzzy, green in e d ib le pods, 1 - 2 inches long; co n ta in green beans. S w e et fla v o r
B oile d and steam ed, as a snack or a p p e tiz e r
GREEN PEA/ENG LISH PEA/GARDEN PEA
Tapered, rounded, in e d ib le green pods. Sm all, round, shiny, lig h t green peas. S w e et fla v o r
S team ed, stew ed. Pureed in soups; so m e tim e s chille d
SNOW PEA
Thin, fla t, edible, green pod, c o n ta in in g tin y
S team ed, s tir-frie d . Eaten raw
peas
seeds. Crisp. S w e et fla v o r SUGAR SNAP PEA
Plump, e d ib le deep green pod co n ta in in g sm all peas. Crunchy. S w e et fla v o r
S team ed, s tir -frie d . Eaten raw
Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
167
root vegetables
Roots serve as a food storage
area for plants; therefore, they are rich in sugars,
Root vegetables should be stored dry and unpeeled. If they come with greens attached, these should be
starches, vitamins, and minerals. Roots primarily move
healthy in appearance at the time of purchase and cut
nutrients and moisture to the tops of the plant. Veg
off as soon as possible thereafter. When properly stored,
etables such as beets, carrots, and turnips are directly
most root vegetables will retain good quality for several
attached to the plant via leaves or leaf stems.
weeks,
FRENCH RADISH
RED RADISH
B A B Y WHITE TURNIPS
B A B Y CARRO TS
LAR G E RED BEET
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
B A B Y BEETS
o o <
RU TAB AG A
Q T Q O) c+
C E L E R Y ROOT
FT C/5
S A L S IF Y
WHITE TU RNIPS
,%
B A B Y GOLD BEETS
ii
DAIKON
LAR G E GOLD BEET
HORSERADISH
Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
169
Root Vegetables VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CARROT
Long, th in , ta p e re d . Orange, yellow , or purple; o fte n w ith green fe a th e ry to p s. Crunchy, sw e et fle sh . Baby c a rro ts com m o nly available
C om po nen t o f m ire p o ix. Boiled, stea m e d, sauteed, roa ste d, glazed.
Round, bum py. L ig h t brow n skin; w h ite fle s h
B oiled, ro a ste d . In soups, stew s,
C ylin d rica l w ith s lig h t ridges, 6 - 8 inches long. R e dd ish-b row n skin; w h ite fle s h
B oiled, cream ed. In soups
CELERY ROOT
LOTUS ROOT
Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
casseroles
w ith large holes M ALAN G A
B arre l-sha pe d. Rough brow n skin; w h ite ,
B oiled, cream ed. In soups and stew s
sta rc h y fle s h C a rro t-sh a p e d . W h ite skin, fle c k e d w ith
C om ponent o f w h ite m ire p o ix. Boiled,
brown. W h ite fle sh . Cream y te x tu re . S w e et fla v o r
stea m e d, sauteed, ro a ste d
S ALSIFY/O YSTER PLANT
Long, th in , stick-sh a p e d . Black, dull skin. W h ite fle sh . M ild o y s te r fla v o r
F la vo rin g f o r s tir -frie s , soups, sauces
TURNIP
Round. P urple to w h ite skin. W h ite fle sh . Sharp fla v o r
S team ed, boiled, sauteed. In soups.
Round; 1 - 4 inches in d iam e te r. W h ite skin w ith pu rp le to p . W h ite fle sh . M ild,
S team ed, boiled, ro a ste d , frie d . P opular in Caribbean cuisine
PARSNIP
PURPLE-TOPPED/ W HITE TURNIP
Raw in salads
sw e e t fla v o r R U TABAG A/YELLO W TURNIP
Large, round; 3 - 5 inches in diam eter. Yellow skin. Firm ye llo w fle sh . S w eet
S team ed, bo ile d; mashed, pureed. P opular in C aribbean, L a tin Am erican, and A fric a n cuisines
RADISHES
Round. Red skin. W h ite fle sh . Crisp. P eppery fla v o r
B oiled, cream ed. In soups. Raw in salads, c ru d ite s
STANDARD BEET
S m all to m edium ; round o r elongated. Red, pink, purple, w h ite , gold, o r s trip e d ; green, le a fy to p s (also a va ila ble ce llo packed w ith o u t to p s). E arth y and sw e et
B oiled, ro a ste d , glazed, pickled . In salads, in soup (com m only bo rscht). Served h o t and cold
DAIKON
C a rro t-sh a p e d ; up to 15 inches long, 3 inches w ide. W h ite skin. Crisp, ju ic y w h ite fle sh . M ild fla v o r
Raw in salads; p ickle d . G rilled, baked, boiled, cream ed. In soups, stew s
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
!
Tubers and rhi
The tuberous potato includes sweet potatoes/yams
zomes, which include a variety of miscellaneous vegeta
for culinary purposes (though of another botanical clas
bles such as the Jerusalem artichoke and jicama as well as
sification). Though potatoes are remarkably versatile in
the entire family of potatoes, are vegetables that are con
their cooking media, there are types that work best for
nected to the root system by an underground stem and
each cooking method. Potatoes are separated into cate
are not, therefore, connected directly to the plant, as are
gories based on starch content, and subsequently divid
roots. Tubers act to store nutrients and moisture for the
ed according to size (A, B, C) and skin color (white, red,
plant’s reproductive capability.
yellow, purple). Size A potatoes range from
Select tubers and rhizomes that are firm and the ap
inches; size B range from
1V 2
to
2V 4
i/ s
to
2V 4
inches; and size C
propriate size and shape to their type. To retain quality,
must be less than
tubers should be stored dry and unpeeled, away from
any color that are recently harvested and thin-skinned.
excess heat and light, in a well-ventilated area. When
Most size C potatoes are marketed as creamer potatoes.
1V 4
inches. New potatoes are those of
exposed to moisture or heat, tubers begin to sprout and wrinkle.
tubers and rhizomes
tubers and rhizomes
RED POTATOES
RED C R E A M E R S
YU KO N GOLD
PU R PLE POTATOES
FINGERLINGS Y E LLO W A POTATOES
R U S S ET POTATO Y ELLO W B POTATOES
Y E LLO W C R EA M E R S
Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
171
tubers and rhizomes, continued
172
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CASSA VA/YU C C A/
S ix -1 2 inches long, 2 - 3 inches in diam eter. Wax-
MANIOC
coated dark brown skin. W hite flesh. Sw eet flavor.
S tir-frie s , soups, sauces, d e s s e rts (tapioca). N ote th a t
Also available dried, ground as tapioca flo u r and as tap ioca pearls in various sizes
b itt e r cassava is poisonous unless p ro p e rly cooked
Gnarled, rough rhizom e. L ig h t brow n skin. Y e llo w is h -w h ite fle sh . F ibrous, b u t ju ic y . Spicy, w ith su b tle sw eetness. A lso a va ila ble dried, ground, candied, pickled , and as b o ttle d ju ice
F la vo rin g f o r s tir -frie s , soups, sauces, d e sse rts, and beverages (tea, g in g e r ale). Candied, p ickled
GALANGAL
Resem bles ginger, w ith lig h te r co lo re d fle sh . Very p e p p e ry and spicy
F la vo rin g f o r s tir- fr ie s , soups, sauces
JICAM A
Large, round; brow n skin. W h ite fle sh . C risp and crunchy. M ild, sw e e t fla v o r
S team ed, bo ile d, sauteed (rem ains crunchy). Raw in salads, slaws, and c ru d ite s
SUN CHO KE/
S im ila r in appearance to g in g e r b u t in d ivid u a l
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE
knobs; brow n skin. W h ite fle s h . Crisp. S w eet, n u tty fla v o r
Steam ed, bo ile d, sauteed, ro a ste d . In soups. Raw in salads
BONIATO
Large, up to 1 f o o t in length; o b lo n g shape. R e dd ish-b row n skin. W h ite fle sh . M ild , sw e e t fle s h like ch e stn u ts
Steam ed, bo ile d, roa ste d, frie d , pureed
Round; 2 V 2- 3 V 2 inches in dia m e te r, 3 - 4 inches long. L ig h t ta n skin. Firm , o ff- w h ite fle sh ; m o d e ra te m o is tu re and s ta rch co n te n t. S m ooth,
B oiled. In p o ta to salad
GINGER
tubers and rhizomes
Tubers and Rhizomes
potatoes CHEF
sh a llo w eyes R U S S E T/B A K IN G / IDAHO
O blong, a b o u t 5 inches long, 3 inches in diam eter. Brow n, coarse skin. W h ite fle sh . Low m o is tu re and high sta rc h co n te n t; f lu f f y
Baked, frie d , pureed, mashed
RED
Round. Red skin. O ff-w h ite fle sh . H u c kle b e rry is an he irlo o m v a rie ty w ith red fle s h
B oiled, ro a ste d . In p o ta to salad
YELLOW
Round. Y e llo w ish -ta n skin. B u tte ry go ld en fle sh . Yukon G old and Yellow Finn are h e irlo o m v a rie tie s
Baked, pureed. In casseroles, salads
WHITE
Large, round. Tan skin and w h ite fle s h
Baked, pureed. In casseroles, salads
PURPLE
Small, round. Deep purple skin. O ff-w h ite or purple flesh . Peruvian Purple is an heirloom v a rie ty
Salads, hom e frie s , o th e r p re p a ra tio n s to showcase co lo r and fla v o r
FINGERLING
Sm all, th in , fin g e r-le n g th . Skin c o lo r ranges fro m tan to red. Flesh can be o ff- w h ite o r yellow . Russian Banana and La R a tte are h e irlo o m v a rie tie s
B oiled, ro a ste d
SWEET POTATO/ YAM
Long, ta p e re d a t b o th ends. Tan or lig h t to deep orange skin, so m e tim e s deep red. M o is t o ff-w h ite to deep orange fle sh ; dense te x tu re . Q uite sw e e t
R oasted, boiled, pureed. In casseroles, soups, pies
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
173
shoots and stalks
This family consists of
plants that produce shoots and stalks used as vegetables.
cycle of a fern) are examples. The stalks should be firm, fleshy, and full, with no evidence of browning or wilt
Artichokes (thistle-like plants, members of the aster
ing. Store these vegetables in the refrigerator, and wash
family), asparagus (another member of the lily fam
just prior to cooking them.
ily), celery, fennel, and fiddleheads (part of the growth G LO BE ARTICHOKE
BABY ARTICHOKE
FEN N EL
WHITE A S PA R A G U S
CELERY
A S PA R A G U S FIDDLEHEAD FERN
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
ASPARAGUS
Tall, sle n d e r sta lk s . Green w ith p u rp le hued tip s , w h ite , o r purple. S kin n ie r
S team ed, sauteed, roa ste d, g rille d . In soups, ris o tto
asparagus are usu ally m ore te n d e r FENNEL
V ery pale green bulb, w ith s ta lk s and b rig h t green fro n d s . Crunchy. Anise fla v o re d
Raw in salads. S auteed, blanched, ro a ste d . F ronds are used in salads or as garnish
F ID DLEH EADFERN
Sm all, t ig h tly wound spirals. Deep green color. Chewy te x tu re . S im ila r fla v o r to
Raw in salads; sauteed, steam ed, b o ile d
shoots and stalks
Shoots and Stalks
asparagus CELERY
Long s ta lk s , bunched to g e th e r w ith leaves on to p . L ig h t green. Crunchy. M ild b u t d is tin c t fla v o r
ARTICHOKES
Range in size fro m baby to jum bo. Tough green o u te r leaves; h e a rt is ten der, w ith a cream y te x tu re . S w e et fla v o r. A rtic h o k e h e a rts are com m o nly a va ila ble canned, packed in oil, and fro z e n
C om po nen t o f m ire p o ix. Raw in salads. In soups o r braised. Leaves are used in salads o r as garnish Jumbo artich o ke s: s tu ffe d or stea m e d. Baby artich o ke s: sauteed, frie d , ro a ste d , m a rin a te d and served w hole
Chapter 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
175
tomatoes
This universal vegetable is actually a
fruit. It is grown in hundreds of varieties, in colors from
Select brightly colored tomatoes, free of soft spots and blemishes. They should be heavy for their size, but
green to yellow to bright red to purple. Basic types in
not overly firm. Tomatoes should not be refrigerated
clude small, round cherry tomatoes; oblong plum toma
because the cold makes the texture mushy, seizes the
toes; and large standard tomatoes. All are available in
flavor, and halts ripening.
various colors. All have smooth, shiny skin, juicy flesh,
Tomatoes may be purchased in numerous forms,
and small, edible seeds. Most tomatoes grown commer
including sun-dried and canned puree, paste, and diced.
cially are picked unripe and allowed to ripen in transit,
The following table covers several varieties of tomatoes,
though many chefs prefer to find locally grown varieties
including their relative, the tomatillo.
that are ripened on the vine. There has been a recent surge in demand for the heirloom species, such as the Cherokee Purple and Green Zebra.
HEIRLOOM AU N T R U B Y 'S G ER M A N GREEN
HEIRLOOM STRIPED G ER M AN
TOMATILLO
HEIRLOOM PU R PLE CHERO KEE
Y E LLO W G RAPE
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
STANDAR D/BEEFSTEAK
Large; round o r oval. Deep red o r yellow . Juicy. Sw eet
Cooked in sauces, braises, stew s
Raw in salads and sandw iches.
P LU M /IT A LIA N P L U M / ROMA
M edium , egg shaped. Red o r yellow . G re a te r p ro p o rtio n o f fle s h ; dryish. S w e et
In sauces, purees, soups, and o th e r cooked dishes. Oven ro a ste d
CHERRY
Sm all, 1 inch in dia m e te r. Red o r yellow . Juicy. Sw eet
Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
S p e c ia lty item . Very sm all, V i - ^ A inch in
Raw in salads
CURRANT/CRANBERRY
tom atoes
Tomatoes
diam e te r. Red o r yellow . Crisp, sw e e t PEAR TOMATOES
HEIRLOOM (BR AN D Y W INE, M ARVEL STRIPED, PURPLE CALABASH, ETC.) TOMATILLOS
Sm all, pear shaped; red o r yellow ; ju ic y , sw e et
Raw in salads and c ru d ite s p la tte rs
Range in size and c o lo r fro m sm all w ith
Raw in salads; cooked in soups and sauces
green s trip e s to large p in kish -p u rp le ; b e a u tifu l, o fte n o d d ly shaped. Juicy and sw e et M edium , 1 to 2 inches in dia m e te r, round, firm . Green o r p u rp le w ith brow n, papery husk. T art, f r u it y fla v o r
Raw in salads and salsas. Cooked in sauces. P opular in M exican and S o u th w e s te rn cuisines .
P L U M /R O M A
Y E LLO W
S T A N D A R D /B EEF S T EA K C H ER RY
PEAR
Y E L L O W PEAR
c h a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FR ESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
1 77
herbs
ROSEMARY
CHERVIL
O REGANO
TH YM E
LEM O N T H YM E
178
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
CILAN TRO
L EM O N G RA SS
CHIVES
FLA T -LEA F PARSLEY
C U RLY P A R S L E Y
ch a p te r 8 » FRUIT, V E G E T A B L E , A N D FRESH HERB ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
179
Herbs VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BASIL
Sm all to large de lica te oval, p o in te d leaves. Green or purple. Pungent, lico rice -like flavo r. V arieties include opal, lemon, and Thai basil. Also available
F la vo rin g f o r sauces, dressings, in fu sed oils, and vinegars. P esto sauce. P opular in M e d ite rra n e a n and Thai cuisine
dried Flavoring fo r soups, stews, stocks, sauces, gra in dishes. Remove b e fo re serving
BAY LE A F / LAUREL LEAF
S m ooth, oval green leaves. A ro m a tic . M o s t
CHERVIL
Sm all, cu rly green leaves; d e lic a te te x tu re . Anise fla v o r. A lso a va ila ble dried
Garnish. C o m ponent o f fin e s herbes
CHIVES
Long, th in b rig h t green c y lin d ric a l leaves. M ild
F la vo rin g f o r salads and cream cheese. As garnish. C om ponent o f fin e s herbes
com m o nly a va ila ble dried
onion fla v o r CILANTRO/CHI NESE PARSLEY/ CORIANDER
S im ila r shape to f la t - le a f parsley, b u t fr illie r ; lig h te r green; d e lica te . Fresh, clean fla v o r
F la v o rin g fo r salsa and uncooked sauces
CURRY LEAVES
S m all to m edium p o in te d oval; da rk green. M ild,
S tir -fry , curry
a ro m a tic, s lig h tly b itte r fla v o r DILL
LEMONGRASS
Long fe a th e r-lik e green leaves. D is tin c t fla vo r.
F la vo rin g f o r salads, sauces, stew s,
A lso a va ila ble d ried
braises
Long blades w ith rough surface; pale ye llo w green; lem on fla v o r
stea m e d p re p a ra tio n s
MARJORAM
Sm all, oval pale green leaves. M ild fla v o r s im ila r to oregano. C om m only ava ila ble dried
F la vo rin g f o r lam b and ve g e ta b le dishes
MINT
Pointed, te x tu re d pale green to b rig h t green leaves; color, size, stre n g th depend on va rie ty. Includes p e pp erm in t, spearm int, chocolate m in t
F la v o rin g fo r sw e et dishes, sauces, and beverages. G arnish f o r d e sse rts. M in t
OREGANO
Sm all, oval pale green leaves. P ungent fla vo r. M exican and M e d ite rra n e a n v a rie tie s are ava ila ble. C om m only ava ila ble dried
PARSLEY
180
F la vo rin g fo r soups, stocks, s tir-frie s ,
je lly is an a cco m pa nim e nt to lamb F la vo rin g f o r to m a to -b a s e d dishes. On pizza
F la vo rin g f o r sauces, sto cks, soups, dressings. As garnish. C om ponent o f
C urly o r f la t b rig h t green leaves; po in te d, scallop ed edges. Clean ta s tin g ; F la t-le a f parsley is also known as Ita lia n parsley. C om m only ava ila ble d ried
fin e s herbes; in b o uq ue t garni and sachet d'epices
ROSEMARY
Pine n e e d le -sh a p e d grayish, deep green leaves; w o od y stem . S tro n g pine arom a and fla vo r. C om m only ava ila ble dried
Flavoring fo r g rille d foo ds (especially lamb) and marinades. Popular in M editerranean cuisine. Branch-like stem s used as skewers
SAGE
Thin, oval, velvety grayish-green leaves. M usty flavor. V arieties include pineapple sage. Comm only available dried, both crum bled and ground
F la vo rin g f o r s tu ffin g , sausage, stew s
SAVORY
O blong da rk green leaves. S o ft, fu zzy te x tu re . C om m only a va ila ble d ried
F la vo rin g f o r pates, s tu ffin g . C om ponent o f p o u ltry seasoning
TARRAGON
Thin, p o in te d dark green leaves. D e lica te te x tu re . Anise fla vo r. C om m only a va ila ble dried
F la vo rin g f o r bearnaise sauce. C o m ponent o f fin e s herbes
THYM E
Very sm all deep green leaves; w o od y stem . V a rie tie s in clud e garden thym e, lem on thym e, w ild thym e. C om m only ava ila ble dried
F lavoring fo r soups, stocks, sauces, stews, braises, roa ste d item s. C om ponent o f bouquet garni and sachet d'epices
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
j
dairy and egg purchasing and identification Concentrated sources of many nutrients, dairy products and eggs can be found on almost any menu, both on their own and as key ingredients in many preparations. Bechamel sauce, for example, has a milk base. Cream, creme fralche, sour cream, and yogurt are used to prepare salad dressings and many baked goods. Butter is used as a chief ingredient in numerous baked goods and as a cooking fat. Cheese may be served as a separate course with fruit, or as part of another dish Eggs appear on their own as well as in breakfast dishes, dessert souffles, and numerous sauces.
CHAPTER
9
purchasing and storage D airy p ro d u cts and eggs are highly perishable; f o r these
W hen co n sid e rin g storag e arra ng em en ts fo r da iry
reasons, c a re fu l purchasing and storag e procedures are
p ro d u cts, fla v o r tra n s fe r is a p a rtic u la r concern. M ilk,
e x tre m e ly im p o rta n t. M ilk and cream co n ta in e rs are c u s to m a rily dated
cream, and b u tte r should be sto re d away fro m fo o d s w ith s tro n g odors, such as onions. Cheeses should be
to in d ica te how long th e c o n te n ts w ill rem ain fre sh . The
c a re fu lly w ra pp ed to m aintain m oistness, and to pre ven t
fre sh n e ss p e rio d s va ry betw een con tain ers; th e re fo re ,
fla v o r tra n s fe r to and fro m o th e r foo ds.
to avoid c o n ta m in a tio n , m ilk and cream fro m d iffe re n t
Eggs should be re frig e ra te d and th e s to c k ro ta te d to
con tain ers should never be com bined. U n fo rtu n a te ly ,
ensure th a t only fre sh , w holesom e eggs are served. A ll
d e te c tin g spoilage by sim p ly sm ellin g o r ta s tin g unheat
eggs should be in sp e cte d c a re fu lly upon delivery, m ak
ed m ilk is o fte n im p ossib le . W hen used in h o t dishes,
ing sure th a t shells are clean and fre e o f cracks. Eggs
m ilk o r cream should be b ro u g h t to a boil b e fo re adding
w ith broken shells should be discard ed because o f the
i t t o o th e r in g re d ie n ts. If th e m ilk curdles, it should not
high ris k o f co n ta m in a tio n .
be used.
dairy products MILK
b e fo re and a fte r processing. Farm s and anim als (cows,
M ilk is a key in g re d ie n t in m o st kitche ns, w h e th e r it is served as a beverage o r used as a co m p o n e n t in v a ri ous dishes. U.S. fe d e ra l re g u la tio n s govern how m ilk is produced and sold to ensure th a t it is clean and safe to consume. M o s t m ilk sold in the U n ited S ta te s has been pa steurized. In p a ste u riza tio n , th e m ilk is heated to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C f o r 30 m in utes or to 1 6 1 °F /7 2 °C f o r 15 seconds, in o rd e r to kilt b a cte ria o r o th e r organism s th a t could cause in fe c tio n o r c o n ta m in a tio n . M ilk p ro d u cts
sheep, and go ats) are also in spected, to ensure th a t san ita ry co n d itio n s are upheld. M ilk th a t has been p ro p e rly produced and processed is labeled Grade A. M ilk com es in variou s fo rm s and is cla s s ifie d a cco rd ing to its pe rcen ta ge o f f a t and m ilk solids. The ta b le on th e ne xt page de scrib es ava ila ble fo rm s o f m ilk and cream and th e ir com m on cu lin a ry uses.
CREAM
w ith a higher pe rcen ta ge o f m ilk f a t than w hole m ilk
M ilk, as it com es fro m th e cow, goat, or sheep, contains
are heated to e ith e r 1 5 0 °F /6 6 °C f o r 30 m in utes or to
a ce rta in pe rcen ta ge o f f a t known as m ilk f a t or but-
1 6 6 °F /7 4 °C f o r 30 seconds f o r u ltra p a s te u riz a tio n . The da te stam pe d on m ilk and cream ca rto n s can be
t e r f a t . O rigina lly, m ilk was allow ed to s e ttle long enough f o r th e cream, w hich is lig h te r than the m ilk, to rise to
seven, ten, o r s ixte e n days fro m th e p o in t o f p a ste u riza
th e surface. Today, a c e n trifu g e is used to spin the m ilk.
tio n . It is an in d ic a to r o f how long th e unopened p ro d u c t
The cream is driven to th e center, w here it can be easily
w ill rem ain fre s h and w holesom e, assum ing th a t i t has
draw n o ff, leaving th e m ilk behind.
been p ro p e rly s to re d and handled. G enerally, m ilk is hom ogenized, w hich means th a t it
Cream, like m ilk, is hom ogenized and pasteurized, and may also be sta b iliz e d to help extend s h e lf life .
has been fo rc e d th ro u g h an u ltra fin e mesh a t high p re s
Some chefs p re fe r cream th a t has n o t been sta b ilize d or
sure to break up th e f a t glob ule s it contains. This fa t is
u ltra p a s te u riz e d , because th e y believe it w ill w hip to a
then dispe rsed evenly th ro u g h o u t th e m ilk, p re ve n tin g
g re a te r volum e. Three fo rm s o f cream are used in m ost
it fro m ris in g to th e surface. M ilk may also be fo r t if ie d
kitche ns: heavy cream , w h ip p in g cream, and lig h t cream.
w ith vita m in s A and D. L o w -fa t and skim m ilk are a lm o st
H a lf-a n d -h a lf (a c o m b in a tio n o f w hole m ilk and cream)
always fo r tifie d , because rem oving th e f a t also rem oves
does n o t con tain enough m ilk fa t to be considered a tru e
fa t-s o lu b le vitam ins.
cream ; its m ilk f a t c o n te n t is a p p ro x im a te ly 10.5 p e r
S ta te and local go vern m ent stan dard s fo r m ilk are
cent. See th e ta b le on th e next page.
fa irly co n siste n t. M ilk p ro d u c ts are c a re fu lly in spe cte d
182
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
O *
P I—* •
Forms of Milk and Cream
i-i
FORM
DESCRIPTION*
COMMON CULINARY USES
NONFAT OR SKIM M ILK
C ontains less tha n 0 .2 5 % m ilk fa t
As beverage. To enrich dishes. In baked goods, de sse rts
REDUCED-FAT M ILK
C ontains 1% o r 2 % m ilk fa t, labeled a cco rd in g ly
As beverage. To enrich dishes. In baked goods, de sse rts
C ontains 3 .5 % m ilk fa t
In becham el sauce. As beverage. To en rich dishes. In baked goods,
o Q -
WHOLE M ILK
C n r+ in
d e sse rts H A LF-A N D -H A LF
C ontains 10 .5% m ilk fa t
As ta b le o r c o ffe e cream. To enrich soups and sauces. In baked goods, d e s s e rts
LIG HTCREAM
C ontains 1 8 % m ilk fa t
As ta b le o r c o ffe e cream . To enrich soups and sauces. In baked goods, d e sse rts
W HIPPING CREAM
C ontains 3 4 % m ilk fa t
As w h ipp ed cream , cold m ousses. To enrich soups and sauces. In baked goods, d e sse rts
HEAVY CREAM
C ontains 3 6 % m ilk fa t
As w h ip p e d cream , cold m ousses. To en rich soups and sauces. In baked goods, d e sse rts
POWDERED OR DRY M ILK
M ilk fro m w hich w a te r is c o m p le te ly rem oved; made fro m e ith e r w h ole or skim m ilk and labeled acco rd in g ly
In baked goods, ch a rcu te rie , and drink m ixes
EVAPORATED M ILK
M ilk th a t has been he ated in a vacuum to rem ove 6 0 % o f its w a te r; m ay be made
To enrich cu sta rd s and sauces. In baked goods and d e sse rts
fro m w h ole o r s kim m ilk and is labeled a cco rd in g ly SWEETENED CONDENSED M ILK
E vap ora te d m ilk th a t has been sw eetened
In candies, pies, puddings, baked goods, dulce de leche
YOGURT
L ig h tly fe rm e n te d w ith a b a c te ria l s tra in o r cu ltu re d . C ontains less tha n 0 .2 5 % to 3 .5 % m ilk fa t, labeled a cco rd in g ly
W ith fr u it . In soups, sauces, baked goods, d e sse rts
SOUR CREAM
T reate d w ith la c tic acid cu ltu re . C ontains 1 8 % m ilk fa t
To en rich soups and sauces. In baked goods, d e sse rts
"The fa t percentages given here are minimums required by FDA labeling regulations. Some products, such as heavy cream, may contain a higher percentage of milk fat.
ch a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
183
ICE CREAM
The b e s t-q u a lity b u tte r has a sw e e t flavo r, s im ila r to very fre s h heavy cream. If s a lt has been added, it should
In o rd e r to m ee t g o ve rn m e n t stan dard s o f id e n tity , any p ro d u c t labeled as ice cream m ust con tain a ce rta in am ount o f m ilk fa t. For vanilla, it is no less than 10 p e r cent. For any o th e r fla vo r, th e re q u ire m e n t is 8 percent. S ta b iliz e rs can make up no m ore than 2 p e rc e n t o f the ice cream . Frozen d a iry fo o d s th a t co n ta in less f a t m ust be labeled as ice m ilk. Prem ium ice cream m ay contain several tim e s m ore fa t tha n th e m inim um re q u ire d by th e se stan dard s. The ric h e s t ice cream s have a custa rd base (a m ix tu re o f cream a n d /o r m ilk and eggs), which gives the m a rich, sm oo th te x tu re . When ice cream m e lts a t room te m p e ra tu re th e re should be no sep ara tion. The appearance o f "w eeping" in m e ltin g ice cream in d ica te s an excessive am ount o f s ta b ilize rs. O th e r fro z e n d e sse rts s im ila r to ice cream include ge la to , sh e rb e t, so rb e t, fro z e n yo g u rt, and fro z e n des se rts made w ith soy o r rice m ilk. G elato is Ita lia n fo r "ice cream"; tho ugh sim ilar, g e la to con tain s less air than A m erican ice cream, g ivin g it a denser, cre a m ie r te x ture. S he rbe t does n o t con tain cream , so it is fa r low er in b u tte rfa t than ice cream ; however, it does con tain a re la tiv e ly high pe rcentage o f sugar in o rd e r to achieve th e c o rre c t te x tu re and co n siste n cy when fro ze n . Some
be b a rely d e te c ta b le . The c o lo r o f b u tte r w ill vary de pending upon th e breed o f cow and tim e o f year, b u t it is usually a pale yellow . The de sig n a tio n sw e e t b u t t e r in d ica te s only th a t the b u tte r is made fro m sw e e t cream (as opposed to sour). If u n salte d b u tte r is desired, be sure th a t th e w ord un s a lte d appears on th e package. S alte d b u tte r may con tain a m axim um o f 2 pe rcen t salt. The s a lt can aid in e xte n d in g b u tte r’s sh e lf life , but can also m ask a s lig h tly "o ld ” fla v o r or arom a. Old b u t te r w ill ta ke on a very fa in t cheese fla v o r and aroma, esp ecially when heated. As it con tinu es to d e te rio ra te , th e fla v o r and arom a can becom e q u ite pronounced and e x tre m e ly unpleasant, much tike sour o r curdled m ilk. The b e s t-q u a lity b u tte r, labeled Grade AA, is made fro m sw e e t cream and has th e b e st flavo r, color, aroma, and te x tu re . Grade A b u tte r also is o f e xce lle n t quality. B oth grades AA and A con tain a m inim um o f 8 0 pe rcen t fa t. Grade B may have a s lig h tly acidic ta s te , as it is made fro m sour cream.
FERMENTED AND CULTURED MILK PRODUCTS
sh e rb e ts con tain a percentage o f e ith e r eggs o r m ilk, or
Y ogurt, sour cream , crem e fratche, and b u tte rm ilk are all
bo th. A lth o u g h th e w ord "s h e rb e t’’ is th e clo se st English
pro du ced by in o c u la tin g m ilk o r cream w ith a b a cte ria l
tra n s la tio n o f th e French w o rd sorbet, so rb e ts are com
s tra in th a t causes fe rm e n ta tio n to begin. The fe rm e n ta
m only un d e rsto o d to con tain no m ilk.
tio n process th icke n s the m ilk and gives it a ple a sa n tly
Frozen y o g u rt and soy and rice m ilk fro z e n de sserts o fte n con tain sta b iliz e rs . They may be lo w er in to ta l fa t
sour flavo r. Y ogurt is made by in tro d u c in g the p ro p e r cultu re
than ice cream, or even fa t-fre e , b u t som e brands are
in to m ilk (whole, lo w -fa t, o r n o n fa t may be used).
s till high in calorie s because o f a high sugar con tent.
A vailable in a v a rie ty o f c o n ta in e r sizes, y o g u rt can be
Test a v a rie ty o f th e se p ro d u cts to d e te rm in e which brands o ffe r th e be st q u a lity fo r th e b e st price. R e fe r to C hapter 3 4 f o r in fo rm a tio n ab ou t p re p a rin g fro z e n des
purchased plain o r fla v o re d w ith d iffe re n t fru its , honey, c o ffe e , o r o th e r in gre die nts. Sour cream is a c u ltu re d sw e e t cream th a t contains
se rts in your own kitchen.
ab o u t 18 p e rc e n t m ilk fa t. It com es in con tain ers o f v a ri
BUTTER
version s o f sour cream are available.
ous sizes, beginning w ith a h a lf p int. L o w -fa t and n o n fa t
Anyone who has a c cid e n ta lly ove rw h ipp ed cream has been w e ll on th e w ay to pro du cing b u tte r. H is to ric a lly , b u tte r was churned by hand. Today it is made m echani cally by high-speed m ixing o f cream th a t con tain s be tw e e n 30 and 45 p e rce n t m ilk fa t. Eventually, th e m ilk fa t clum ps to g e th e r, se p a ra tin g o u t in to a solid mass, which is b u tte r; th e flu id th a t rem ains is re fe rre d to as b u tte rm ilk (m o st b u tte rm ilk sold tod ay, however, is non fa t m ilk th a t has been cultured).
184
Creme fra tch e is sim ita r to sour cream b u t has a s lig h tly m ore rounded fla vo r, w ith less b ite . It is o fte n p re fe ra b le in coo kin g because it te n d s to curd le less re a d ily than sour cream when used in h o t dishes. This p ro d u c t is made fro m heavy cream w ith a b u tte rfa t c o n te n t o f a p p ro x im a te ly 30 pe rcen t. The high b u tte rfa t c o n te n t helps account f o r its higher cost. B u tte rm ilk , s tr ic tly speaking, is the b y-p ro d u ct o f churned b u tte r. M o s t b u tte rm ilk sold to d a y is a ctu ally
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN T HE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
Q -
n o n fa t o r re d u c e d -fa t m ilk to w hich a b a c te ria l s tra in
tra c e enzymes, and chem icals, which the n cause cu rd
has been added. U sually sold in p in ts o r quarts, b u tte r
ing. (The re m a in in g liquid is known as th e whey.) Some
m ilk is also ava ila ble as a d rie d pow der f o r baking uses.
P i—»• i- i
^<1
cheeses are made w ith added acid, such as lemon juice. The curds are the n processed in various ways, depend
CHEESE The v a rie ty o f cheeses produced th ro u g h o u t th e w o rld is extensive, ranging fro m m ild fre s h cheeses (p o t cheese o r c o tta g e cheese) to s tro n g ly fla v o re d blue-veined cheeses (R o q u e fo rt o r G orgonzola) and hard g ra tin g cheeses (Parm igiano-R eggiano o r dry M o n te re y Jack). Some cheeses are e xce lle n t f o r cooking, w h ile o th e rs
ing on th e ty p e o f cheese desired. They may be drained
O
and used im m e d ia te ly, as fre s h cheese, o r th e y may be
Q -
pressed, shaped, in o cu la te d w ith a special m old, and
£
aged.
n c+ GO
T ra d itio n a lly made cheeses are considered "livin g" in much th e same w ay th a t w ine is. The cheese w ill con tin u e to develop o r age to m a tu rity (ripening), and fin a lly spo il (overripening). Processed o r p a steurized cheeses
are b e st served on th e ir own. The name o f a cheese can be de rive d fro m place o f origin , m a n u fa ctu rin g process, o r ty p e o f m ilk or in g re dien t. P ecorino cheeses are an e xce lle n t illu s tra tio n o f how a cheese is named. Pecorino de no te s th a t the cheese is made o f sheep’s m ilk; P ecorino Romano and Pecorino M ug ello are sheep's m ilk cheeses fro m nearby Rome and M ugello, re sp e ctive ly. M o s t cheeses are made th ro u g h th e fo llo w in g p ro cedure: M ilk is com bined w ith th e a p p ro p ria te s ta rte r (e ith e r rennet, w hich con tain s an enzyme, o r an acid such as ta rta ric acid o r lem on ju ice), causing th e m ilk solids to coa gu late in to curds o r causing th e c re a tio n o f acid,
and cheese fo o d s, on th e o th e r hand, do n o t ripen and th e ir c h a ra cte r w ill n o t change. Cheese is made fro m a v a rie ty o f d iffe re n t m ilk s — cow's m ilk, g o at's m ilk, sheep's m ilk, and even w a te r b u f falo 's m ilk. The ty p e o f m ilk used w ill help to determ ine th e cheese's u ltim a te fla v o r and te x tu re . Cheeses may be gro up ed acco rding to th e ty p e o f m ilk fro m which th e y are made, o r by te x tu re , age, or rip e n in g process. This book ca te g o rize s cheese as fre s h cheeses; s o f t / rin d -rip e n e d cheeses; s e m is o ft cheeses; hard cheeses; g ra tin g cheeses; and blue-veined cheeses. See the ta b le s on pages 1 8 7 to 197.
ch a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
185
fresh cheeses
unripened, high in m o istu re , and g e ne rally have a fresh,
These cheeses are m o is t and
ve ry s o ft. They have a fla v o r th a t is g e n e ra lly te rm e d
cream y, clean fla vo r. They are ty p ic a lly th e m ost p e rish
mild, b u t fre s h cheese made fro m goat's o r sheep's m ilk
able o f cheeses and are som e tim es held in brines.
may be s lig h tly ta n g y and strong . Fresh cheeses are
SOFT ASH GOAT C H EESE
CH EESE CURD
QUESO FRESCO
M ASCARP0N E
COTTAGE CHEESE
RICOTTA
BOURSIN F A R M E R ’S CH EESE
186
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CHEVRE/GOATCHEESE
G o a t’s m ilk. W h ite block, pyram id,
In spreads, fillin g s , salads
b u tto n , w heel, o r log. M ild to ta n g y (depending on age); may be fla v o re d w ith herbs or p e pp ercorn s. S o ft to crum b ly, de pe nd ing on age. M o n tra c h e t is a p o p u la r brand COTTAGE CHEESE
W hole o r skim cow's m ilk. Packaged in tu b s. W h ite curds. M ild. S o ft, m o is t
W ith fr u it . In dips
CREAM CHEESE
W hole cow's m ilk plus cream . W h ite
In spreads, dips. As cooking in g re d ie n t. In baked goods and d e s s e rts
block. M ild, s lig h tly tan gy. S o ft, cream y. A lso known as N e u fc h a te l in m any p a rts o f th e U n ite d S ta te s (w ith a low er f a t c o n te n t), a lth ou gh N e u fc h a te l is a d iffe r e n t cheese in France FETA
Sheep's, goat's, o r cow ’s m ilk. W h ite block. Tangy and sa lty. S o ft, cru m b ly
In salads. As a co o kin g in gre die nt. Used in spa na kop ita
FR O M AG EBLAN C
W hole or skim cow's m ilk. W hite. M ild, tan gy. S o ft, s lig h tly cru m b ly
As co o kin g in g re d ie n t
MASCARPONE
Cow's cream . Form less, packaged in tu b s. Pale yellow . B u tte ry , sw eet, rich. S o ft, sm oo th
W ith fr u it . In tira m is u .T o enrich dishes
M O ZZAR ELLA
W hole o r skim cow's o r w a te r b u ffa lo 's m ilk. Irre g u la r sphere. W h ite w ith
On pizza, pasta. W ith to m a to e s and ba sil in a caprese salad. As a cooking in g re d ie n t
g re e n is h -y e llo w tin t. M ild. S pring y to te n d e r o r s o ft, de pe nd ing on age. M ay be sm oked RICOTTA
W hole, skim , o r lo w -fa t cow's m ilk. Packaged in tub s. S o ft w h ite curds; m ild. M o is t to s lig h tly dry. Grainy. O fte n a b y-p ro d u ct o f cheese m aking, by adding rennet, acid, o r both to whey a fte r heating
FARMER'S CHEESE
fresh cheeses
Fresh Cheeses
As co o kin g in g re d ie n t. In d e sse rts; as a f illin g f o r cannoli. M akes e xce lle n t cheesecake
Cow's m ilk. W hite. C urdless; firm enough to cut. M ild. Grainy, spoonable
W ith fre s h f r u it and veg etab le s. In
BOURSIN
W hole cow ’s m ilk and cream . W h ite round. F lavored o r herbed cream cheese spread. S m ooth
In spreads, o r as a spread on its own
QUESOFRESCO
C ow’s m ilk. O ff-w h ite to w h ite rounds. M ild, sa lty. S im ila r to ric o tta o r fa rm e r's cheese. C rum bly, s lig h tly gra in y
As to p p in g o r f illin g f o r m any M exican dishes
dips, d e sse rts, pasta
c h a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
187
soft/rind-ripened cheeses
ripe, m o st s o ft cheeses should bulge (at room te m p e ra
S o ft/rin d -rip e n e d cheeses usually have a surface m old.
tu re ) when cut, and have a fu ll fla vo r. These cheeses are
This s o ft, v e lv e ty skin is edible, tho ugh som e people
ty p ic a lly sprayed o r du sted w ith a m old and the n allow ed
fin d it to o s tro n g to enjoy. M any o f the se cheeses have a
to ripen. S o ft ripened cheeses are available w ith v a ry
washed rind. These are p e rio d ic a lly w ashed w ith a liquid
ing degrees o f richness. For exam ple, single, double, and
such as beer, cider, wine, o r brandy durin g ripening. The
trip le cream cheeses have 5 0 ,6 0 , and 70 pe rce n t b u t
cheese ripens fro m th e o u tsid e to th e center. W hen fu lly
te rfa t, re sp e ctive ly.
TALEGGIO PO N TL'E VE Q U E
REBLO CHO N
EX PLO R A T E U R
HUDSON V A L L E Y C A M E M B ER T
l8 8
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
VARIETY BRIE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
P a ste u rize d w hole o r skim cow's o r
Table cheese. In sandw iches, salads
go at's m ilk, so m e tim e s cream . L ig h t y e llo w w heels. B u tte ry , pungent. S o ft, sm ooth, w ith ed ib le rind; cream y CAMEMBERT
Raw o r p a ste u rize d w h ole cow's
Table cheese. In sandw iches
o r goat's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w d isk o r square. M ild, m u sh ro o m -like fla v o r. S o ft, cream y, w ith ed ib le rind EXPLORATEUR
W hole cow's m ilk and cream . Pale
Table cheese. E xce lle n t w ith Champagne
ye llo w ba rrels, disks, or w heels. Rich, m ild; s o ft, cream y, sm oo th LIMBURGER
W hole o r lo w -fa t cow's m ilk. L ig h t
Table cheese, w ith f r u it and veg etab le s
ye llo w block, brow n e x te rio r. V ery s tro n g fla v o r and arom a, sa lty . S o ft, sm oo th , w axy PO NTL’EVEQUE
W hole cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w
Table cheese. In d e sse rts, crepes, salads
square. P iquant, s tro n g arom a. S o ft, supple, w ith sm all holes and ed ib le g o ld e n -y e llo w rind; washed rind TALEGGIO
Raw cow's m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w square. T art, sa lty , b u tte ry , and p o w e rfu l (depending on age). Has som e sm all holes; washed rind
Table cheese. In salads. As cooking in g re d ie n t
EPOISSES
Cow’s m ilk. Blond, a lm o s t s tra w co lo re d disks. Rich, huge fla v o r; p le a s a n tly sm elly, b a rn y a rd -lik e arom a. S m ooth; washed rind
Table cheese. As dish accom panim ent
REBLOCHON
Cow's m ilk. Ivory disk. Sweet,
Table cheese, w ith f r u it o r bread
p o w e rfu l, n u tty . Cream y, ve lve ty; w ashed rind
c h a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
soft/rind-ripened cheeses
Soft/Rind-Ripened Cheeses
semisoft cheeses
Semisoft cheeses are
time, though not quite as long as hard or grating cheeses.
more solid than soft cheeses; while they do not grate
Semisoft cheeses may be ripened through one of three
easily, they are ideal for slicing. A significant character
processes: washed rind; natural rind cheeses are al
istic of these cheeses is their use as a melting cheese.
lowed to form a rind during ripening; and wax-rind
These cheeses are allowed to age for specific periods of
cheeses are sealed in wax prior to aging.
CARAW AY HAVARTI
CACIOTTA M U EN STER
MORBIER
M O N T ER E Y JACK
190
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CACIOTTA
W hole cow ’s m ilk cheese. S e m is o ft w ith
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
som e curd holes and a th ic k , ye llo w ish wax. Aged f o r 2 m onths. M e llo w and savory; ava ila ble fla v o re d w ith chiles or herbs FONTINA
W hole cow's or sheep's m ilk. M edium ye llo w wheel. M ild, grassy, f r u ity , n u tty
Table cheese. In sandw iches. As co o kin g in g re d ie n t. In fon due s. G reat m e ltin g cheese
HAVARTI
C re am -en rich ed cow's m ilk. W h ite to lig h t ye llo w blocks o r w heels. Very m ild,
Table cheese. G reat on sandw iches
semisoft cheeses
Semisoft Cheeses
b u tte ry , o fte n fla v o re d w ith herbs, spices, or peppers. Cream y, w ith sm all holes MORBIER
W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel w ith in te rn a l ed ib le ash layer; brow n cru st. Creamy, sm oo th . F ru ity , n u tty ,
Table cheese. As a coo kin g in gre die nt. In o m e le ts, crepes
w ith h a y-like arom a M O NTEREY JACK
W hole p a ste u rize d cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w h ee l o r block. M ild ; m ay be
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
fla v o re d w ith ja la p e n o s MUENSTER
W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
o r block; rin d m ay be orange. M ild to pungent, de pe nd ing on age. S m ooth, w a xy w ith sm all holes PORT-SALUT
W hole o r lo w -fa t cow ’s m ilk. Y ellow block; orange rind. B u tte ry , m e llo w to sharp. S m oo th w ith tin y holes
Table cheese, w ith raw onions and beer. G re a t m e ltin g cheese
c h a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
191
firm cheeses
Firm cheeses have a firm and
originated in England, but a variety of cheeses that
drier texture than semisoft cheeses and a firm consis
originated in the United States are made using the same
tency. They slice and grate easily. Cheeses that fall into
method. Some examples are Colby, Monterey Jack, and
this category are made by varying processes. One of
dry Jack cheeses.
the most common is Cheddar. The cheddaring process
M AN CH EGO EM M E N TALE R
G R U YE R E
AGED PROVOLONE
AGED GOUDA
RICOTTA SALATA
AGED CHEDDAR AGED PECORINO (ANTICO M UGELLO )
192
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
!= b H-i
3
Firm Cheeses VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CANTAL
W hole cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w cylinder. M ild, b u tte ry fla vo r. C rum bly, firm
Table cheese. In salads, sandw iches. W ith f r u it
CHEDDAR
W hole cow's m ilk. L ig h t to m edium ye llo w w heels o r re cta n g le s. M ild to sharp, de pe nd ing on age. S w e et gra ssy arom a. B u tte ry , rich
EMMENTALER
Raw o r p a ste u rize d p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. L ig h t ye llo w w heel. Full fla v o re d , n u tty , fru ity . S m ooth, shiny, w ith large holes.
Table cheese, w ith beer. In sandw iches. As coo kin g in gre die nt. G reat m e ltin g cheese
n
O) rt)
in a> m
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese. In fon due s, sandw iches
C om m only called S w iss cheese GOUDA
W hole cow ’s m ilk. W heel, usually coa ted w ith red wax; ranges fro m go ld en to am ber, de pe nd ing on age. M ild, cream y, s lig h tly n u tty fla v o r. S m oo th, may have tin y holes. M ay be sm oked
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese. Aged Gouda can be g ra te d
JARLSBERG
P a rt-s k im cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t y e llo w wheel. Sharp, n u tty fla v o r. Large holes. Very po p u la r in th e U n ite d S ta te s
Table cheese. G reat m e ltin g cheese
MANCHEGO
W hole sheep's m ilk. W h ite to ye llo w ish w heel; bro w n ish -g ra y ba ske t-w e a ve rind. S lig h tly briny, n u tty fla v o r. T iny holes
Table cheese. In salads. Can be gra te d
PROVOLONE
W hole cow ’s m ilk. Shaped like a pear, sausage, o r round ball. Pale ye llo w w ith ye llo w to g o ld e n -b ro w n rind. Sharp
Table cheese, w ith olives, bread, raw veg e ta b le s, salam i. In sandw iches. G re a t m e ltin g cheese
fla v o r. E lastic, oily. M ay be sm oked RICOTTASALATA
W hole sheep's m ilk. Pure w h ite cylinder. S alty, n u tty fla vo r. S m oo th b u t cru m b ly
In pasta, salads. Table cheese, w ith salam i, fr u it, and veg etab le s
GRUYERE
W hole raw cow's m ilk. F la t beige w heels w ith brow n rind. F ru ity , n u tty fla v o r.
In fon d u e , g ra tin s , soups, sandw iches. As co o kin g in g re d ie n t
S m oo th; may have c ry s ta ls
Chapter 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
193
hard cheeses
in large p a rt, to th e long aging process th a t ty p ic a lly
Hard cheeses are ty p ic a lly g ra t
la sts fro m tw o to seven years, alth ou gh some cheeses
ed or shaved ra th e r tha n cu t in to slices because o f th e ir granular te x tu re . In Italy, th e se cheeses are known as
may be aged f o r lo ng er periods. They are ve ry hard, low-
granas (grainy cheeses) because o f th e ir gra n u la r te x
m o is tu re cheeses, m aking th e m less prone to spoilage
tu re . The c h a ra c te ris tic te x tu re o f hard cheeses is due,
than o th e r cheeses.
ASIAGO
PARM IGIANO -REGGIANO
PECORINO ROM ANO
G R A N A PADANO
' > ■*’ it
- . .
z
i
V
jy
• ' * ' r '*
DRY M O N T ER E Y JACK
QUESO COTIJA
194
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
ASIAGO
W hole o r p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. L ig h t
In salads, pasta. Table cheese, w ith f r u it and bread
ye llo w w heels w ith gra y rind. M ild to sharp fla vo r, de pe nd ing on age PARM IG IANOREGGIANO
P a rt-s k im cow ’s m ilk. Large drum s, stra w -c o lo re d in te rio r w ith go ld en rind. Sharp, n u tty , s a lty fla v o r. Very hard, dry, crum b ly
Table cheese. G rated over pasta or ris o tto . In salads. Rind is used in ve g e ta b le s to c k s and soups
DRY M O NTEREY JACK
W hole o r p a rt-s k im cow's m ilk. Pale yellow . Rich, sharp, s lig h tly n u tty fla v o r
Table cheese. G rated over pasta. Aged used in salads
PECORINO ROMANO
W hole sheep's m ilk. Tall cylin d e rs, w h ite w ith th in , black rind. V ery sharp, sa lty, p e p p e ry fla v o r. Dry, cru m b ly
Table cheese. G rated over pasta or ris o tto . In salads
SAP S AG O /G LAR N ER
S kim cow ’s m ilk. L ig h t green fla tte n e d cone. P iquant, sharp, sa g e -a n d -le ttu c e fla vo r. Very hard, gra n u la r
G rated on noodles, salads, o r soups. M ixe d w ith b u tte r o r y o g u rt in dips
Cow’s m ilk. Drum s, go ld en co lo re d . M ild fla v o r. V ery hard
G rated. As a less-expensive a lte rn a tiv e to P arm igiano-R eggiano fo r coo kin g
SCHABZIGER
G RANAPADANO
Chapter 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
hard cheeses
Hard Cheeses
195
blue-veined cheeses
B lue-veined
b e fo re ripening. A fte r being in je c te d w ith th e mold,
cheeses have con sisten cies th a t range fro m sm oo th and
the se cheeses are the n sa lte d or brine d b e fo re being
cream y to dry and crum bly. T h e ir blue veinin g is
allow ed to rip en in dark, cool, dam p con ditions.
th e re s u lt o f a special m old th e cheese is exposed to
ROQUEFORT
SPANISH BLUE
196
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
VARIETY
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
DANISH BLUE
W hole cow's m ilk. W h ite b locks or drum s, no rind. S tron g, sharp, s a lty fla v o r. Firm , cru m b ly
In dressings, salads, spreads. Sliced. As a co o kin g in g re d ie n t
GORGONZOLA
W hole cow's a n d /o r g o at's m ilk. M edium y e llo w w heel w ith blue m arb lin g. Tangy, p iq u a n t fla vo r. S e m is o ft, cream y;
Table cheese, w ith fr u it. In salads, pizza, spreads. As coo kin g in gre die nt. Sliced
crum b les w e ll ROQUEFORT
Raw sheep's m ilk. Ivory c y lin d e r w ith blue -gree n m arb lin g. Deep, fu ll, spicy fla v o r. S e m is o ft, cru m b ly
STILTON
W hole cow ’s m ilk. Tall cylinde r, iv o ry co lo re d pa ste w ith b lu e -gree n m arb lin g. Full, rich; cheesy fla v o r, sp icy arom a.
Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking in g re d ie n t.
blue-veined cheeses
Blue-Veined Cheeses
Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking in g re d ie n t.
F irm y e t cru m b ly SPANISH BLUE
Cow's, sheep’s, o r go a t's m ilk. S tra w co lo re d c y lin d e r w ith p u rp lis h -b lu e veins. S alty, sharp, ta n g y fla vo r. M o is t, crum b ly. Com mon v a rie ty is Cabrales
Table cheese. In salads. As a cooking in g re d ie n t
AM ERICAN ARTISANSTYLE BLUE CHEESE
Exam ples are P oint Reyes and M aytag.
Table cheese. In dressings, salads. As
Range in fla v o r and te x tu re , and ty p e o f m ilk
a co o kin g in g re d ie n t
ch a p te r 9 » D A IR Y A N D EGG P U R C H A S IN G A N D ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
197
eggs Eggs are one o f th e kitchen's m o st im p o rta n t item s.
egg’s appearance is im p o rta n t. Large and extra -la rg e
From m ayonnaise to m eringues, soups to sauces, appe
eggs are g e n e ra lly used f o r coo kin g and baking, where
tiz e rs to de sserts, th e y are p ro m in e n t on any menu. The
th e w hole egg's appearance is less critic a l.
a b ility to se le c t th e rig h t egg f o r a p a rtic u la r dish (shell egg, yolks only, w h ite s only, o r pa ste u rize d eggs) is c r it i
Eggs are also sold in several processed form s: bulk or flu id w hole eggs (which so m e tim es includes a
cal to its success. To learn m ore a b o u t coo kin g eggs, see
pe rcen ta ge o f e xtra yolks to o b ta in a sp e c ific blend),
C h ap te r 26.
egg w h ite s, and egg yolks. P asteurized eggs are used in p re p a ra tio n s such as salad dressings, eggnog, or des
GRADING, SIZES, AND FORMS Eggs are graded by th e U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re on the basis o f e xte rn a l appearance and freshness. The to p grade, AA, in d ica te s th a t th e egg is fre sh , w ith a w h ite th a t w ill n o t spread unduly once th e egg is broken, and a yolk th a t rid es high on th e w h ite's surface. The yolk should also be anchored in place by m em branes known as th e chalazae. Eggs come in a num ber o f sizes: jum bo, e xtra large, large, m edium , sm all, and peewee. Younger hens, also known as p u lle ts, produce sm a lle r eggs, w hich are o fte n regarded as b e tte r q u a lity than la rg e r eggs. M edium eggs are b e st f o r b re a k fa s t cookery, where th e cooked
serts, w here th e tra d itio n a l recipe may have in d ica te d th a t th e eggs should be raw. These p ro d u cts ge ne rally are available in liq u id o r fro z e n fo rm . D ried pow dered eggs are also available, and may be use fu l f o r som e baked goods o r in c e rta in circu m stances. For instance, on board a ship, it may n o t be pos sible to p ro p e rly s to re fre s h eggs fo r th e d u ra tio n o f a voyage. Egg s u b s titu te s may be e n tire ly e g g -fre e o r may be produced fro m egg w h ite s, w ith da iry or v eg etab le p ro d ucts s u b s titu te d f o r th e yolks. These s u b s titu te s are im p o rta n t fo r people who req uire a re d u ce d -ch o le ste ro l diet.
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
dry goods identification Dry goods include a wide range of ingredients that are essential to almost every preparation in any foodservice operation. They must be chosen, purchased, and stored with the same degree of care as required by fresh meats or produce
CHAPTER
10
mm#
• SSSSS ■ ■ I
purchasing and storage Dry goods are also re fe rre d to as no nperishable goods.
S to re d ry goods in an area th a t is dry, p ro p e rly v en
However, like pe rish able goods, the se in g re d ie n ts lose
tila te d , and accessible. A ll goods should be placed above
q u a lity over tim e . Keeping an adequate s to c k on hand is
flo o r level on shelving o r p a lle ts. Some d ry item s, such
e sse n tia l to a sm o o th -ru n n in g o p e ra tio n , b u t having to o
as w hole grains, nuts and seeds, and c o ffe e ( if th e y are
much tie s up necessary space and money. R o ta tin g dry
n o t vacuum packed, and a fte r th e seals are broken), are
goods and o b se rvin g a rule o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" is ju s t
b e st s to re d in th e re frig e ra to r o r even th e freeze r.
as im p o rta n t f o r d ry goods as it is f o r m ore pe rish able foo ds.
grains, meals, and flours This broad ca te g o ry exte nds fro m w hole grains such
and th e re fo re should be purchased in am ounts th a t
as rice and ba rle y to cornm eal and p a s try flo u r. Grains
can be used in a re la tiv e ly s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e — tw o
are v e rs a tile and universal fo o d s enjoyed w o rldw id e,
to th re e weeks. M ille d grains have been polished; th a t
in every cuisine and cu ltu re . W hile th e y are im p o rta n t
is, th e y have had th e germ , bran, a n d /o r hull rem oved.
sources o f n u tritio n , it is also th e ir su b tle b u t s a tis fy
A lth o u g h m ille d grains te n d to la s t longer, som e o f th e ir
ing fla v o rs and te x tu re s th a t give the m such culina ry
n u tritiv e value is lo s t du rin g th e processing.
im p ortan ce. W hea t and corn are o f p rim a ry im p o rta n ce in W estern c o u n trie s such as th e U n ited S ta te s and
M ille d grains th a t are broken in to coarse p a rticle s may be re fe rre d to as cracked. If th e m illin g process continues, m eals and cereals (cornm eal, fa rin a , Cream o f
Canada. Rice is fu n d a m e n ta l to m any Asian cuisines. In
Rice) are fo rm e d . Finally, th e grain may be ground in to a
fa c t, in many Asian languages, th e w ord f o r rice is the
fin e pow der known as flo u r.
same as th a t f o r fo o d . O th e r c u ltu re s re ly upon grains such as oats, rye, and buckw heat. G rains are th e fr u its and seeds o f cereal grasses. For th e m o st pa rt, th e y are inexpensive and re a d ily a v a il
Various m etho ds are used f o r m illing: crushing be tw e e n m e ta l ro lle rs, g rin d in g betw een stones, o r c u ttin g w ith ste e l blades in an actio n s im ila r to th a t o f a fo o d processor. S to n e -g ro u n d grains may be p re fe ra b le in
able, and pro vid e a valuable and co n ce n tra te d source o f
som e cases, because th e y rem ain a t a low er te m p e ra
n u trie n ts and fib e r. A lth o u g h grains d iff e r in appearance
tu re du rin g p ro cessing com pared to o th e r typ e s o f
fro m o th e r f r u its (apples and pears, f o r exam ple), th e ir
m illin g and so re ta in m ore o f th e ir n u tritiv e value. The
s tru c tu re is q u ite sim ilar.
fo llo w in g ta b le s de scrib e som e o f th e available fo rm s
W hole grains are grains th a t have n o t been m illed.
f o r several d iffe re n t grains.
They te n d to have a s h o rte r life span than m ille d grains
200
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
greatest amount of protein. Wheat is used in a variety of
been cultivated for thousands of years. It is by far the
savory and sweet dishes. It is versatile and flavorful.
most nutritious of all the staple grains, containing the
ch a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
w heat
wheat Abundant and economical, wheat has
201
wheat flour
When milled into flour, wheat is
wheat, and soft white winter wheat. (Durum wheat is a
generally used to produce baked items. Gluten, the sub
particular type of hard wheat.) Winter wheat is planted
stance formed from wheat’s proteins, provides elasticity
in the winter and harvested the following summer;
and structure that aids in the development of baked
spring wheat is planted in the spring and harvested that
goods, specifically bread. Wheat is classified by season
summer. Generally, spring wheat produces the hardest
and color as follows: hard red winter wheat, hard white
flours and winter wheat the softest.
winter wheat, hard red spring wheat, soft red winter
W HOLE WHEAT FLO U R SEM O LIN A FLO U R
DURUM FLOUR
A L L-P U R P O S E FLOUR CA K E FLO U R
BREAD FLO UR
202
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BERRIES/W HO LE
U n re fin e d o r m in im a lly p ro cesse d w hole kernels. L ig h t brow n to re d d ish -b ro w n . S om e w h at chewy. N u tty fla v o r
As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads, breads
CRACKED
C o arse ly crushed, m in im a lly processed kernels. L ig h t brow n to re d d ish -b ro w n .
As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads, breads
S om e w h at chewy. N u tty fla v o r BULGUR
S team ed, dried , and crushed fin e , m edium , or coarse. L ig h t brow n. Tender. M ild fla v o r
As h o t cereal. In p ila f, salads (tabb ou leh )
BRAN
S ep ara te d o u te r cove rin g o f w h e a t kernel.
As h o t and cold cereal. In baked go od s (bran m u ffin s )
Brow n fla ke s. M ild ly n u tty fla v o r GERM
S ep ara te d em bryo o f w h e a t kernel. Sm all,
As h o t and cold cereal. In baked goods
brow n, p e lle t-lik e . S tro n g n u tty fla vo r. A vaila ble to a s te d and raw FARINA
Polished, m e d iu m -g rin d w heat. W hite, f lo u r like. Very m ild fla v o r
As h o t cereal
EBLY®/TENDER
S o ft, p a rb o ile d durum w h ea t. R esem bles plum p grains o f rice in raw s ta te . R esem bles
Soups, salads, side dishes, en tre es, d e sse rts
wheat and wheat flour
Wheat and Wheat Flour
pe arl ba rle y when cooked. S u b tly m ild fla v o r; a va ila b le raw o r cooked WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR
Hard w heat. The e n tire ke rn e l is fin e ly m illed . L ig h t brow n. Full, n u tty fla v o r. Graham flo u r is
In baked goods, pasta, pizza dough
w h ole w h e a t f lo u r w ith a co a rse r grind ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
BREAD/PATENT FLOUR
Blend o f hard and s o ft w h ea t. The en do spe rm is fin e ly m illed . O ff-w h ite . U su ally enriched, may be bleached
In baked goods, pasta. As th ic k e n in g agent
Hard w h ea t. The en do spe rm is fin e ly m illed .
In bread, s o ft ro lls
O ff-w h ite . U sually enriched, may be bleached CAKE FLOUR
S o ft w h ea t. The en dosperm is v e ry fin e ly
In cakes, cookies, dum plings
m illed . Pure w h ite . U sually en rich ed and bleached PASTRY FLOUR
S o ft w heat. The en do spe rm is ve ry fin e ly m illed . Pure w h ite . U sually en rich ed and bleached
In pie dough, m u ffin s , b iscu its, p a s trie s
DURUM FLOUR
Hard w h ea t. The en do spe rm fro m th e durum w h e a t kern el is fin e ly m illed . Pale ye llo w co lo r
In bread, pasta
SEM O LIN A FLOUR
Durum w h ea t. The en do spe rm is coa rsely m illed . Pale ye llo w
In pasta, gnocchi, puddings. Used to make couscous
ch a p te r
10 » DRY GOODS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
203
r i C e A staple food to at least half of the world’s com
Rice is com m e rcially cla ssifie d by size (long, medium,
munities, rice is an invaluable and versatile ingredient.
and s h o rt grain). The tw o main typ e s o f rice are w h ite and
This starchy whole grain complements nearly any flavor
brown. W h ite rice is m illed, w hile brown rice is unm illed,
component with which it’s paired.
re s u ltin g in a m ore n u tritio u s and fib e r-p a cke d grain.
BH UT AN ESE RED RICE
CO NVERTED LONG-GRAIN RICE
JASM IN E RICE
204
LO NG-GRAIN BROWN RICE
POPCORN RICE
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
rice
Rice TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BROWN
W hole grain, w ith th e in e d ib le husk
In p ila f, salads
rem oved. L ig h t brow n. Chewy te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble as sh o rt, m edium , o r long grain W HITE/PO LISHED
Husk, bran, and germ rem oved. W hite. M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble as sh o rt, m edium , o r long grain
In p ila f, salads. S h o rt grain used to make rice pudding
CO NVERTED/ PARBOILED
U nhulled grain soaked and stea m e d b e fo re th e husk, bran, and ge rm are
In p ila f, salads
rem oved. V ery lig h t brow n color. F lu ffy , s e p a ra te gra in s when cooked BASMATI
E x tra -lo n g grain. Fine, d e lic a te te x tu re . A ro m a tic , n u tty fla v o r. Aged to reduce
In p ila f, salads
m o is tu re co n te n t. A vaila ble as brow n or w h ite rice. Popcorn rice is a v a rie ty o f b a sm a ti JASMINE
A ro m a tic , d e lic a te fla vo r. Long grain. W h ite
In p ila f, stea m e d, rice pudding
A R BO R IO /ITALIAN
Very sh o rt, v e ry f a t grain. O ff-w h ite . High s ta rch co n te n t; cream y when
In ris o tto , pudding
cooked. V a rie tie s include C arnaroli, P ie dm o ntese , and V ia lo ne Nano CALASPARA
Very sh o rt, ve ry fa t grain. O ff-w h ite . High
In paella
sta rc h co n te n t; cream y when cooked W ILD
M arsh grass, u n re la te d to re g u la r rice. Long, th in grain. D ark brow n. Chewy te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r
In salads, s tu ffin g , pancakes, fo rc e m e a ts . O fte n com bined w ith bro w n rice
S T IC K Y /P E A R L/ G LU TIN O U S/SU SH I
Round, s h o rt grain. Very s ta rch y; s tic k y when cooked. S w eet, m ild fla v o r
In sushi, d e sse rts, and o th e r culina ry uses
RICE FLOUR
W h ite rice th a t has been ve ry fin e ly m illed . Pow dery, w h ite . M ild fla v o r
As th ic k e n in g agent. In baked goods
HEIRLOOM
V a rie tie s include Bhutanese Red, F orbidd en Black, and K a lijira rice. Length and c o lo r vary
In salads, s tu ffin g . O fte n com bined w ith brow n rice
c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
205
corn
Corn is popular in many cuisines throughout
the world in numerous forms. It is often eaten fresh (on
many by-products (bourbon, corn oil, cornstarch, corn meal, corn syrup).
and off the cob) or dried, and used as the foundation of
GRITS
B LU E C O R N M E A L
C O R N M EA L
m
m CORNSTARCH
206
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
corn
Corn FORM
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
H O M INY
D ried kernels, soaked in lye to rem ove th e hull and germ . A vaila ble canned or dried
In succotash, casseroles, soups, stew s, side dishes. In M exican posole
GRITS
G round hom iny. A vaila ble in fine ,
As h o t cereal. In baked goods, side dishes. P opular in th e sou thern
m edium , and coarse g rind s
U n ite d S ta te s M ASA
D ried kernels, cooked and soaked in lim ew a te r, the n ground in to dough. Pale yellow . M o is t. V a ria tio n : masa harina, d rie d and ground to a fin e flo u r. M u s t be re c o n s titu te d to make a dough
CORNMEAL
D ried kernels, ground to fin e , m edium , o r coarse te x tu re . W hite, yellow , o r blue. V a ria tio n s: corn flo u r (fin e ly ground);
Used to make to r tilla s , tam ales, and o th e r M exican dishes. Masa harina o fte n used in baked goods or as a c o a tin g f o r pan fry in g or deep fry in g
As h o t cereal. In baked goods. To coat ite m s f o r s a u te in g or pan fry in g
p o le n ta (coa rsely ground) CORNSTARCH
D ried kernels, hull and germ rem oved,
As th ic k e n in g agent (slurry). In baked
g round to a powder. Pure w h ite
goods, coa ting s
CHEF'S NOTES ON CORN Corn, also known as maize, is a grass that
uses as field corn; however, it is also best
is native to the Americas and has been
used for popping corn due to its starch
cultivated there for thousands of years. It
content. Flour corn has a kernel that is
was introduced to Europe in the fifteenth
easy to grind. It can be grown in different
century. Today it is widely cultivated
colors but is most typically white. It is the
throughout the world, with the United
most prevalent variety grown by Native
States producing about 40 percent of the
Americans. Finally, there is sweet corn,
world’s harvest. Corn is grown for use as
which contains more sugars than do other
livestock feed, as a source for biofuel, and
varieties. This is the best variety for eating
for human consumption.
off the cob. At the same stage of growth,
There are a few basic varieties of corn,
sweet corn will contain more than twice
which are grown for different uses. Field corn, also known as dent corn, is grown
the amount of sugar contained in field corn. Freshness is most important when
primarily for use as livestock feed, in in
buying sweet corn to be eaten off the cob
dustrial products, and to make processed
because approximately 50 percent of the
foods. Flint corn, which is also known as
sugar will be converted to starch within the
Indian corn, is grown for the same typical
first twenty-four hours after being picked.
Chapter 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
207
oats
Oats are a valuable source of nutrients and fi
ber. They are readily available and inexpensive. Mainly consumed as a hot or cold cereal, oats are also commonly used as an ingredient in baked goods and side dishes.
208
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
oats
Oats FORM
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
GROATS
H ulled, usually crushed grain, esp e cia lly oats, b u t can be w heat, b u ckw h e a t kasha
As h o t cereal. In salads, s tu ffin g , or m ixed w ith o th e r cereals
R O LLED/O LDFASHIONED
G roats, stea m e d and fla tte n e d . Very pale
As h o t cere al (oatm eal). In granola, baked goods
S T E E L-C U T/IR IS H / SCOTCH
G roats, cu t in to pieces. Brow n, chewy
As h o t cereal. In baked goods
BRAN
O u te r cove rin g o f th e o a t
As h o t and cold cereal. In baked goods
FLOUR
G roats, m ille d in to a fin e pow der
In baked goods
brow n, a lm o st w h ite . Round, fla k e -lik e . Tender. A lso ava ila ble as "q u ic k -c o o k in g " and "in s ta n t"
CHEF'S NOTES ON OATS Oats are grown in temperate climates and
starch, protein, vitamins, and minerals. It
can be cultivated easily in poor soil. The
is the groat, or the inner kernel of oats, that
oat plant is an annual grass with either a
is rolled into flakes and used as oatmeal in
fall planting and midsummer harvest or a
breakfast foods and baking. Oats may also
spring planting and late summer harvest.
be consumed raw and are used for prepar
Most of the cultivation of oats is used for
ing muesli and other cereals that may be
livestock feed. However, oats contain more
eaten cold. They are also commonly used
soluble fiber than any other grain, mak
for beer brewing, commonly in oatmeal
ing them a good choice for healthy eating.
stout where oats are used for a portion of
The bran also contains omega fatty acids,
the wort.
c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
209
other grains
A wide variety of grains fall in the
others are rarely used. In recent years, however, chefs
“others” group, as they do not fit cleanly into another
have begun to experiment with many of these less com-
category. Some of these grains are quite common, while
mon varieties of grains.
>• KASH A
*
*
A M A R A N TH
M ILLET
QUINOA
PEA R LED B A R L E Y
B A R L E Y FLOUR
FARRO
210
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
NAME
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BUCKWHEAT
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. L ig h t brown. M ild ly n u tty fla v o r
As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used f o r pancakes, blinis, baked goods
KASHA
Hulled, crushed kernels (b u ckw h e a t g ro a ts), ro a ste d . R edd ish-b row n . Chewy te x tu re . T oasty, n u tty fla v o r
In p ila fs, salads, savory pancakes
M ILLET
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. Bland fla v o r
other grains
Other Grains
As h o t cereal. In p ila f. F lou r is used f o r puddings, fla tb re a d s , cakes
SORGHUM
C om m only bo ile d to a th ic k syrup
In p o rrid g e , fla tb re a d s , beer, syrup, m olasses
RYE
W hole, cracked, o r m ille d in to flo u r. Ranges fro m lig h t to d a rk brow n. Dense.
In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r baked goods
P um p ern ickel flo u r is v e ry dark, coa rsely ground rye TEFF
W hole; e x tre m e ly tin y . L ig h t to re d d ish brow n. S w eet, c h e s tn u t-lik e fla v o r
In soups, casseroles. As th icke n in g ag en t
AM AR AN TH
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. C o lor ranges fro m w h ite to tan, gold, o r pink. S w e et fla v o r
As h o t and cold cereal. In p ila f, salads, soups
SPELT
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. M o d e ra te ly n u tty fla v o r
In p ila fs , salads. F lour is used fo r baked goods
JOB'S TEARS
W hole; sm all, w h ite . S lig h tly chewy te x tu re . G rass-like fla v o r
In p ila fs , salads
QUINOA
W hole o r m ille d in to flo u r. V ery tin y
In p ila fs , salads, puddings, soups, as an a d d itio n to po le nta
circles. O ff-w h ite , red, o r black. M ild fla v o r BARLEY
H ulled and p e arl (hull and bran rem oved). V a rie tie s: g rits , flo u r. Tan to w h ite . N u tty fla v o r
In p ila fs , salads, soups. Used to make w h iske y and beer
c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
211
dried pasta and noodles
different flours and grains. Good-quality dried pastas
Dried pasta
is a valuable convenience food. It stores well, cooks
from wheat flour are customarily made from durum
quickly, and comes in an extensive array of shapes,
semolina. Pasta may be flavored or colored with spin
sizes, and flavors, as described in the table on pages 214
ach, tomatoes, beets, herbs, or squid ink.
to 215. Pasta and noodles are made from a number of
FUSILLI
ISRAELI CO USCOUS
TUBETTI
ORECCHIETTE
CO U SCO U S
ORZO
212
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
dried pasta and noodles c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
213
Dried Pasta and Noodles NAME
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
BUCATINI
H ollow , long strand s; s p a g h e tti-sh a p e d
S erved w ith th ic k e r sauces
BEAN THREAD
Slender, g e la tin o u s noodles. M ade fro m
NOODLES
m ung beans
In soups, s tir frie s , salads, de sserts, drinks. Com m on in A s ia n -in flu e n ce d dishes
CAPELLINI
FETTUCCINE
Thin, long strand s. T hin ne r version: ca p e lli d'angelo (angel hair)
Served w ith b ro th , oil, o r ve ry lig h t
T hick, long stra n d s; fla t, rib bo n-sha pe d
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces,
sauces
s p e c ific a lly cream sauces LASAGNE
T hick, long, fla t, w ide noodles; r u ffle d
In casseroles
edges LINGUINE
RICE NOODLES
Thin, long, fla tte n e d strand s. Name
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t
com es fro m th e Ita lia n lingua, o r tongue
to heavy
V arious w id th s ; long strand s. M ade fro m
Com m on in A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes
rice flo u r SO BANO O D LES
R ibbon-shaped, fin e , long stra n d s. M ade fro m b u ckw h e a t flo u r
SPAGHETTI
V arious w id th s ; round, long strand s
In soups, s tir frie s . Common in A sianin flu e n ce d dishes Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces, lig h t to heavy
UDO N NO O D LES
Thick, long stra n d s
In soups, stew s, s tir frie s . Common in A sia n -in flu e n ce d dishes
VERM ICELLI
Thin, long stra n d s; s im ila r to s p a g h e tti
In b ro th s, soups. Served w ith lig h t sauces
ACINI DEPEPE
Sm all, rice -shap ed
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
CASARECCIA
S ho rt, ro lle d , tw is te d in to an S-shape
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
ELBOWS
S h o rt, narrow , curved tu b e s
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
FARFALLE
M edium , b o w tie -sh a p e d
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
FUSILLI
214
S h o rt, co rkscre w -sh a p e d
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
ORECCHIETTE
Cupped, curved rounds
S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
ORZO
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
Sm all, grain -sh ap ed
soups, salads, casseroles
PENNE
RADIATORE
S h o rt tub es, sm o o th o r ridged, d ia g o n a lly cut
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
S ho rt, chunky w ith rip p le d edges
S erved w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
soups, salads, casseroles
soups, salads, casseroles
RIGATONI
T hick, rid ge d tu b e s
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles
SHELLS
S m all to large. Resem ble conch shells
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In soups, salads, casseroles; la rge r
dried pasta and noodles
NAME
she lls s tu ffe d
TUBETTI
Served w ith a v a rie ty o f sauces. In
Sm all to m edium , tu b e -sh a p e d
soups, salads, casseroles
COUSCOUS
Sm all, irre g u la r shape; g ra in -lik e . S im ila r to coarse sand
As h o t cereal. In p ila fs , salads
ISRAELI COUSCOUS
L a rge r than tra d itio n a l couscous. P earllike, sm oo th , round balls. Chewy te x tu re .
In p ila fs , salads, soups
S o m e tim e s to a s te d ITALIAN CO USCOUS/ FREG O LASARD A
L a rge r tha n tra d itio n a l couscous;
In salads, fis h - o r to m a to -b a s e d
irre g u la r shape. S un-baked. G olden brow n. Chewy te x tu re . N u tty fla v o r
soups
c h a p te r i o
» DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
2 15
dried legumes
Commonly referred to as
used within six months of purchase. When purchasing
beans or peas, legumes are the dried seeds of pod-bear-
legumes, look for beans/peas that are bright and shiny
ing plants. Legumes are considered to be a staple food
and free of dust or mold.
to many cuisines throughout the world. Legumes become drier and harder and require a longer cooking time as they age, so they are best if
1
Always rinse them before preparing, to remove any foreign, inedible debris. Discard any beans or peas that appear moldy, damp, or wrinkled.
•
LENTILS
RED LENTILS GREEN LENTILS
CH ICKPEAS PIGEON PEAS GREEN SPLIT PEAS
F LA G EO LETS B LA C K BEAN S
LIM A B EAN S
C R A N B E R R Y B EAN S
216
K ID N EY B EA N S
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
GREAT NORTHERN BEAN S
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Sm all. R e ddish-brow n. A vaila ble w hole
P opular in Japanese cuisine. Used in c o n fe c tio n s as a sw e e t pa ste or s u g a r-co a te d . In savory dishes
beans ADZUKI
or pow dered. S w e e t fla v o r
BLACK/TURTLE
CANARY
In soups, stew s, salsas, salads, side
Large. Black e x te rio r, lig h t cream y in te rio r. S w e et fla v o r
dishes
S lig h tly sm a lle r tha n p in to beans. C anary-yellow . S w e et and n u tty fla v o r
s p e c ific a lly stew s
P opular in Peruvian dishes,
C A N N E LLIN I/IT A LIA N
M edium ; kidney-shaped. W h ite . N u tty
M in e s tro n e soup, salads, stew s, side
KIDNEY
fla v o r
dishes
CRANBERRY
Sm all, round. L ig h t ta n w ith m aroon m arkings. N u tty fla v o r
In soups, stew s, salads, side dishes
FAVA/BROAD
Large, f la t oval. Tan. H erbaceous fla v o r w ith a firm te x tu re
P opular in M e d ite rra n e a n and M id d le
FLAGEOLETS
G ARBANZO /C HICKPEAS
dried legumes
Dried Legumes
E astern cuisines. In fa la fe l, soups, stew s, salads, side dishes
Sm all; kidney-shaped. Pale green to cream y w h ite . D e lica te fla v o r
S erved w ith lamb. Braised and pureed as a side dish
M edium , acorn-shaped. Beige. N u tty
P opular in m any e th n ic dishes. In couscous, hummus, soups, stew s,
fla v o r
salads, side dishes
GREAT NORTHERN
KIDNEY
LENTILS
Large; s lig h tly rounded. W hite. M ild ly d e lic a te fla v o r M edium ; kidne y-shap ed . Pink to m aroon. F u ll-b o d ie d fla v o r
Sm all; round. Brown; v a rie tie s include French (gra y-gree n e x te rio r w ith pale ye llo w in te rio r), red, yellow , s p lit w h ite .
In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes In c h ili con carne, re frie d beans, beans and rice, soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes Served w h ole or pureed as an a cco m pa nim e nt. In soups, stew s, salads, side dishes
P eppery fla v o r LIM A /B U T TE R
M edium ; s lig h tly f la t kidney-shape. W h ite to pale green. B u tte ry fla v o r
In succotash, soups, stew s, salads, side dishes
MUNG
Sm all; round. Green. Tender te x tu re and s lig h tly sw e e t fla v o r
S p ro u te d f o r bean spro uts. Ground in to flo u r to make cellophane noodles and bean th re a d s
N AVY/YAN KEE
Sm all; round. W hite. M ild fla v o r
In baked beans, chili, soups, salads
ch a p te r
10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
217
Dried Legumes, continued NAME(S) PINTO/RED MEXICAN
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
M edium ; tu b u la r. Beige w ith brown
In chili, re frie d beans, stew s, soups
stre a k s RICE
H e irlo o m bean. Very sm all, plum p, capsule-shaped; resem bles rice grains. M ild, s lig h tly b itt e r fla v o r
SOYBEANS
Sm all; pea- to che rry-sha ped ; d ried ve rsio n is m ature bean. Red, yellow , green, brow n, black. Bland fla v o r
HEIRLOOM (CALYPSO, TONGUES OF FIRE, JACOB'S CATTLE, MADEIRA, AND OTHERS)
Range tre m e n d o u s ly in size and color; m any have s trip e s o r speckles
As s u b s titu te f o r rice. In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes
In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes
In soups, stew s, casseroles, side dishes, salads
peas BLACK-EYED
PIGEO N/G ANDULES
Sm all; kidney-shaped. Beige w ith black "eye." E a rth y fla v o r
In h o pp in’ John, soups, side dishes
Sm all, n e arly round. Beige w ith orange
P opular in A frica n , C aribbean, and Indian dishes
s p o ttin g . S w e et fla v o r s im ila r to lima beans SPLIT
Sm all, round. Green o r yellow . E arth y fla v o r
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
In s p lit pea soup, salads, side dishes
:
Nuts are the fruits of various
Considering that nuts are somewhat expensive, storing them properly is a must. They are susceptible to
underground in the root system of a leguminous plant.
turning rancid rather quickly. Nuts that have not been
Nuts are available in the shell, shelled and roasted,
roasted or shelled will keep longer. Shelled nuts may
blanched, sliced, slivered, halved, and chopped. Nuts
be stored in the freezer or refrigerator to allow for an
are also used to produce butters, such as the ever-popu-
extended shelf life.
lar peanut butter.
nuts and seeds
nuts and seeds
trees, with the exception of the peanut, which grows
ALM O N D S PEC AN S
PEAN U TS
H A ZELN U T S
M A C A D A M IA S
CASH EW S
PINE NUTS PU M PKIN SEEDS
PISTACHIOS
B LA C K S E S A M E S EED S
SU N FLO W ER SEEDS
WHITE S E S A M E SEEDS
PO PPYSEED S
c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
2ig
Nuts and Seeds |
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
T eardrop-shaped. Pale tan, w o od y shell.
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce
S w e et fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in shell; shelled, blanched, slivered , sliced, s p lit, chopped, ground (m eal and flo u r)
alm ond paste, alm ond b u tte r, and alm ond oil. Used raw or to a s te d in baked goods, co n fe ctio n s, granola, cu rry dishes
nuts ALM O ND
BRAZIL
Large, tria n g u la r nut. D ark brow n, hard shell. W hite, rich nut
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or to a s te d in baked goods
CASHEW
K idney-shaped. Tan nut. B u tte ry , s lig h tly sw e et fla v o r. O nly sold hulled (its skin con tain s oils s im ila r to th o se in poison ivy)
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce cashew b u tte r. Used raw or to a s te d in baked goods, co n fe c tio n s
CHESTNUT
F a irly large, round to te a rd ro p -sh a p e d . Hard, glossy, da rk brow n shell; brown
Used cooked in sw e et and savory dishes. R oasted, boiled, pureed
in te rn a l skin. O ff-w h ite nut. S w e et fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole in shell; shelled canned in w a te r o r syrup, fro ze n , dried, or pureed H AZELN U T/FILBER T
Sm all, ne arly round. S m ooth, hard shell. Rich, sw e et, d e lic a te fla vo r. A vailable w h ole in shell; she lle d w hole, blanched, chopped
M AC AD AM IA
PEANUT
N e arly round; e x tre m e ly hard shell.
Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d
G o ld e n -ye llo w nut. Rich, s lig h tly sw eet, b u tte ry . A vaila ble shelled only
in baked goods, c o n fe c tio n s
Tan, p o d -lik e shell; pa pe ry brow n skin.
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used to produce p eanut b u tte r and peanut oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t o r savory
O ff-w h ite nut. D is tin c tiv e , sw e e t flavo r. A vaila ble w hole in shell or shelled, skinned
PECAN
Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d in sw e e t o r savory dishes, baked goods, salads, cereals
S m ooth, hard, thin , oval shell. Two-lobed, b ro w n -skin n e d nut; cre a m -co lo re d in te rio r. Rich, b u tte ry fla v o r. A vaila ble
dishes, baked goods, c o n fe ctio n s, salads Eaten o u t o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d in sw e et o r savo ry dishes, baked goods, pie, co n fe c tio n s , salads
w h ole in shell; she lle d halved, chopped
220
PINE/PIG NO LI
Sm all, elo n g a te d kernel, ab o u t V 2 inch long. L ig h t tan. B u tte ry , m ild fla v o r
Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t and savo ry dishes, baked goods, salads, p e sto
PISTACHIO
Tan shell opens s lig h tly when nut is m ature ; shells so m e tim e s dyed red. Green nut. S ub tle, sw e et fla vo r. A vailable w h ole in shell, ro a ste d , usually salted. A lso a va ila ble shelled, chopped
Eaten out o f hand. Used raw or toa ste d in sw e et and savory dishes
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
W ALNUT
Thick o r th in lig h t brow n shell. Brow nskinned nuts grow in gnarled segm ents;
E aten o u t o f hand. Used to produce w a ln u t oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e e t o r savory dishes. In baked
tender, oily. M ild flavo r. A vailable w hole in shell or shelled, halved, chopped; pickled
goods, co n fe c tio n s , salads
seeds POPPY
PUMPKIN
Very tin y , round b lu e -b la ck seeds. Crunchy te x tu re . Rich, s lig h tly m u sty fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground
As f illin g and to p p in g fo r baked
Sm all, f la t s o ft oval. C re am -colore d hulls. G reen ish -brow n, o ily in te rio r.
Used raw o r to a s te d in sw e et or savo ry dishes, baked goods. Popular in M exican cuisine
D e lica te fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole o r hulled, usually sa lte d FLAX
Tiny, oval seeds. Golden or dark brown. M ild ly n u tty. M ust be cooked b e fore eating
nuts and seeds
NAME(S)
goods. In salad dressings. Popular in cuisines o f ce n tra l Europe and the M id d le East
Used to produce linseed oil. In baked goods, h o t and cold cereal
SESAME
Tiny, fla t, oval seeds. Black, red, o r tan. Crunchy. S w eet, n u tty fla v o r
Used to produce o il and ta h in i (paste). Used raw o r to a s te d in sw eet and savo ry dishes, baked goods, c o n fe c tio n s , as garnish
SUNFLOW ER
Sm all, som e w h at fla t, te a rd ro p -s h a p e d seeds. W oody black and w h ite shell. L ig h t tan seed. M ild fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole in shell or shelled, usually sa lte d
Used to make su n flo w e r oil. Used raw o r to a s te d in baked goods, salads
ch a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
221
dried spices
Whole spices will generally keep longer than ground
Spices are aromatics produced
primarily from the bark and seeds of plants. They have
spices. Dried spices are best stored in sealed containers
long been used as flavor additives for savory and sweet
in a cool, dry environment, away from extreme heat and
dishes. Dried spices are available whole, ground, or as
direct light. For best results, purchase whole spices and
spice blends.
grind them just prior to using.
EPAZOTE
GUMBO FILE TURM ERIC
M USTARD SEED
C E L E R Y SEED
JUNIPER BERRIES
CARAW AY SEED
CUMIN SEED
C LO VE S
CA RD A M O M PODS
STAR ANISE
222
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
FEN U G R E EK
CORIANDER
A LLS P IC E BERRIES
NUTMEG
|
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
ALLSPICE
D ried, unripened, pe a-sized b e rry o f th e sm all evergreen p im ie n to tre e . Dark
In braises, fo rc e m e a ts , fish , de sserts
re d d ish -b ro w n . Tastes like cinnam on, nutm eg, and cloves. A vaila ble w hole or ground ANNATTO
Dried, sm all a ch io te seeds. Deep red. N e arly fla v o rle s s ; im p a rts y e llo w ish -o ra n g e c o lo r to fo o d s. A vaila ble w hole
P opular in L a tin A m erican and C aribbean cooking. In stew s, soups, sauces
A N AR DANA
D ried po m eg rana te seeds. M u te d , deep red. Sour fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole or ground
P opular in Indian cuisine as souring ag en t
ANISE
D ried rip e f r u it o f th e herb Pim pin ella anisum. L ig h t brow n. S im ila r fla v o r to fe n n e l
P opular in S o u th e a st Asian and M e d ite rra n e a n cooking. In savory
seeds; sw e et, spicy, lic o ric e ta s te and arom a
dishes, d e sse rts, baked goods, lique ur
D ried f r u it o f th e a ro m a tic caraw ay plan t, m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily . Sm all s trip e d
P opular in A u stria n , German, and
CARAWAY
cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds. D is tin c t fla v o r s im ila r to , b u t s w e e te r than, anise seeds
CARDAMOM
D ried, unripened fr u it; m em b er o f th e gin g e r fa m ily . Sm all round seeds in green, black, or
dried spices
Dried Spices
H ungarian cuisines. In rye bread, pork, cabbage, soups, stew s, some cheeses, baked goods, lique ur (kiim m e l) In curries, baked goods, pickles
bleached w h ite pod. S tro n g arom a; sw eet, spicy fla v o r. A vaila ble as w hole pod, seeds, o r ground CAYENNE
D ried, rip en ed f r u it pod o f Capsicum
In sauces, soups, m eat, fis h , p o u ltry
frutesce ns. B rig h t red. H ot; spicy. A vaila ble fre s h o r dried , w h ole o r ground CELERY
CINNAM ON
CLOVES
D ried seed o f a w ild ce le ry (lovage). S tro n g
In salads, coleslaw , salad dressings,
ve g e ta l fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole o r ground
soups, stew s, to m a to e s , baked goods
D ried in ne r bark o f a tro p ic a l tre e . R eddishbrow n. A vaila ble in s tic k s or g round
In baked goods, curries, dessert sauces, beverages, stews
D ried, unopened flo w e r o f th e tro p ic a l
In s to cks, sauces, braises, m arinades, cu rrie s, pickles, d e sse rts, baked goods
evergreen clove tre e . R e dd ish-b row n , spike shaped. S w eet, pung en t arom a and fla vo r. A vaila ble w hole or ground CORIANDER
Dried, rip e f r u it o f th e c ila n tro plan t. Small, round, ta n n is h -b ro w n seeds. Unique c itru s like fla v o r. A vaila ble w hole
P opular in Asian, Indian, and M id dle E aste rn cuisines. In curries, ground fo rc e m e a ts , pickles, baked goods
CUMIN
D ried f r u it o f a p la n t in th e p a rsle y fa m ily . Sm all, cre sce n t-sh a p e d seeds; th re e colors: amber, black, w h ite . N u tty fla v o r. A vaila ble w h ole o rg ro u n d
P opular in Indian, M exican, and M id d le E astern cuisines. In curries, c h ili
c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
223
Dried Spices, continued NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
DILL
D ried f r u it o f th e herb A ne th u m graveolens,
P opular in n o rth e rn and Eastern
m em ber o f th e p a rsle y fa m ily. Sm all tan seeds. A vaila ble w hole
European cuisines. In pickles, sa u e rkra u t, cheeses, breads, salad dre ssin gs
EPAZOTE
An herb, Chenopodium a m b ro s io id e s. M edium green leaves. D is tin c tiv e fla v o r and
P opular in M exican and Caribbean cuisines; in chili, beans, soups, stew s
arom a. A vaila ble d rie d or fre s h FENNEL
D ried, rip e f r u it o f th e p e ren nia l Foeniculum vulgare. Sm all oval seeds, lig h t g re en ishbrow n. S w e et lic o ric e fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole or ground
FENUGREEK
Seed pods fro m an annual herb. Small, fla t, re ctan gu lar seeds; yellow ish -brow n. B itte r ta s te and pungent, hay-like, m aple-like aroma. Available w hole or ground
P opular seasoning blends o f M e d ite rra n e a n , Italian, Chinese, and S candinavian cuisines. In sausages, fish , sh e llfish , to m a to e s , baked goods, m arinades, liqueurs P opular in Indian cuisine. In curries, m eat, m arinades, p o u ltry , chutneys, spice blends, tea s
FILE POWDER
D ried leaves o f th e sassa fra s tre e . W oodsy fla vo r, s im ila r to ro o t beer. A vaila ble ground
P opular in C reole cuisine. In gum bo
GINGER
P la nt fro m tro p ic a l and s u b tro p ic a l regions. Tan, knobby, fib ro u s rhizom e. Sweet, p e p p e ry fla v o r; spicy arom a. A vailable fre sh , candied, pickled , o r ground
P opular in Asian and Indian cuisines. In curries, braises, baked goods
HORSERADISH
Large, w h ite ro o t. M em b er o f th e m u sta rd fa m ily . Sharp, in te nse fla v o r; pungent
In sauces, con dim ents, egg salad, p o ta to e s , be ets
arom a. A vaila ble d rie d o r fre s h JUNIPER BERRIES
Sm all, round d rie d b e rry o f ju n ip e r bush. D ark blue. S lig h tly b itte r; m u st crush to
In m arinades, braises, m ea ts/g am e, sa u e rkra u t, gin, liqueurs, teas
release fla v o r M em brane cove rin g o f th e nu tm e g seed. B rig h t red when fre sh ; ye llo w ish -o ra n g e when dry. S tro n g n u tm e g ta s te and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole or ground
In fo rc e m e a ts , pork, fish , spinach and o th e r veg etab le s, pickles, de sserts,
MUSTARD
Seeds fro m p la n ts w ith in th e cabbage fa m ily . Three type s: tra d itio n a l w h ite /y e llo w (sm aller; less pu ng en t fla v o r), brow n, and black (la rger; pungent, h o t fla v o r). A vaila ble w h ole or pow dered
In pickles, m eats, sauces, cheese, eggs, p re p a re d m ustard
NUTMEG
Large seed o f a f r u it th a t gro w s on the tro p ic a l evergreen M y r is t ic a fragans. Sm all egg shape; da rk brow n. S w eet, spicy fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w hole or ground
MACE
224
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
baked goods
In sauces, soups, veal, chicken, aspics, veg etab le s, d e sse rts, baked goods, eggnog
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
PAPRIKA
Dried, ground pods o f sw e et red peppers.
P opular in H ungarian cuisine. In braises, stew s, goulashes, sauces, garnishes
M any v a rie tie s. S up erior fro m Hungary; colors range fro m orange-red to deep red. M ild to intense fla v o r and aroma. Available ground; also Spanish sm oked (sw e et and hot) SAFFRON
D ried stig m a s o f flo w e rs o f Crocus so tivu s. T h re a d -like ; ye llow -ora nge . One ounce re q u ire s 1 4 ,0 0 0 stigm a s; expensive due to la b o r-in te n s iv e process. A vaila ble as th re a d s or pow dered
E ssen tial in paella, bo uilla ba isse, r is o tto M ilanese. In p o u ltry , seafood, rice p ila fs , sauces, soups, baked goods
STAR ANISE
Dried 8 - to 1 2 -p o in te d pod fro m Chinese evergreen, m em ber o f th e m agnolia fa m ily. S ta r shape; da rk brow n. Intense lico rice fla v o r and arom a. A vaila ble w h ole o r g round
P opular in Asian dishes. Used s p a rin g ly in pork, duck, baked goods, tea s, liqueurs
TURMERIC
D ried ro o t o f th e tro p ic a l p la n t Curcuma longa, re la te d to ginger. Shape s im ila r to
P opular in Indian and M id d le Eastern cuisines. In curries, sauces, m ustard, pickles, rice
ginger; b rig h t yellow . Intense spicy fla vo r. A vaila ble pow dered
dried spices
NAME(S)
spice mixes CHILI POWDER
Blend o f ground spices w ith d rie d chiles
P opular in S o u th w e ste rn and M exican
as th e base. Can include cum in, cloves, coriander, g a rlic, and oregano. Degree o f
cuisines. In chili, c h ili con carne, soups, stew s, sauces
spicine ss changes w ith v a rie ty o f chile CHINESE FIVE-SPICE
CURRY POWDER
Blend o f g round spices; equal p a rts Szechwan pe pp ercorn s, s ta r anise, cinnam on, cloves, and fen nel. P ungent fla v o r and arom a Blend o f ground spices. Can include
P opular in Indian cuisine. In m eats,
cardam om , chiles, cinnam on, cloves,
sea food , veg e ta b le s, sauces, rice, soups
coriander, cum in, fe n n e l seed, fe n u g re e k, mace, nutm eg, red and black pepper, poppy and sesame seeds, s a ffro n , ta m a rin d , tu rm e ric . Degree o f spicine ss and co lo r change w ith v a rie ty GARAM M ASALA
P opular in Chinese cuisine. In m eats, fish , veg etab le s, m arinades, sauces
Blend o f d ry -ro a s te d spices; many v a ria tio n s . Can include black pepper,
P opular in Indian cuisine. In fis h , lamb, po rk, p o u ltry , c a u liflo w e r, p o ta to e s
cardam om , cinnam on, cloves, coriander, cum in, d rie d chiles, fen nel, mace, nutm eg. W arm fla v o r and arom a. W hole or ground QUATRE EPICES
French te rm m eaning "fo u r spices''; re fe rs to a v a rie ty o f ground spice m ix tu re s . Can in clud e pepper, allspice, ginger, cinnam on, cloves, nu tm eg
In stew s, soups, veg etab le s, pates, te rrin e s
c h a p te r 10 » DRY G O O DS I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
225
salt and pepper
Long valued for their pres
ervation qualities, both salt (sodium chloride) and
dry place. In humid weather, salt may cake together; to prevent this, mix a few grains of rice in with the salt.
pepper have been prized for centuries. However, with
Peppercorns are berries grown on trees in tropi
refrigeration widely used today, they have become less
cal regions around the world. The type and flavor of
important as preservatives.
peppercorn depends on when it is harvested. Whole
Available in many forms, salt is a precious mineral
peppercorns will retain their flavor almost indefinitely,
that can be obtained from two different sources and
but they must be crushed or ground for the flavor to be
processes; it is either mined or evaporated from seawa
released.
ter. Free of shelf life concerns, salt is best stored in a
Salt and Pepper DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
CURING
9 3 .7 5 % ta b le salt, 6.2 5% sodium n itra te . S om etim es it is dyed pink to d iffe re n tia te fro m o th e r salts
C uring m eats and fis h
KOSHER
Flaky, coarse grains. Iodine fre e . D eveloped f o r p re p a ra tio n o f kosher m eats. P re fe rre d over ta b le s a lt by m any
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer.
Table s a lt f o r t if ie d w ith iodine, a n u trie n t s u p p le m e n t to re g u la te th y ro id . Can im p a rt b itt e r ta s te . M ay re a ct w ith c e rta in fo o d s
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer. In
Food a d d itiv e , de rive d fro m g lu ta m ic
Used in m any processed fo o d s
TYPE
salt
IODIZED
MSG (M O NO SODIUM GLUTAMATE)
C ooking, canning, p ic k lin g
baked goods
acid. In te n s ifie s th e fla v o r o f savory fo o d s
PICKLING/CANNING
S im ila r to ta b le salt. C ontains no a d d itiv e s ; w ill clum p when exposed to m o istu re . P rovides pure ta s te and cle ar p ic k lin g /c a n n in g liq u id
P ickling, canning. S u b s titu te s fo r ta b le s a lt as fla v o r enhancer
ROCK
Very coarse grains. Inexpensive
Used in crank ice cream machines. P rovide s bed f o r sh e llfis h
_
226
SALT SU BSTITU TES/ LIGHT SALT
Some or all sodium ch lo rid e is replaced w ith p o ta ssiu m ch lo rid e
S o d iu m -re s tric te d cooking. S u b s titu te s f o r ta b le s a lt as fla v o r enhancer
SEA/BAY
Thin, fla k y layers. Produced fro m e va p o ra te d seaw ater. C ontains tra c e m inerals. Intense fla vo r. F ine -gra in and la rg e r c ry s ta ls available
F la vo r and te x tu re enhancer. Do n o t use f o r p icklin g , canning, or baking
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
;
in
P TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
SEASONED
Table s a lt com b in ed w ith o th e r fla v o r a d d itiv e s
F lavo r enhancer f o r s p e c ific p re p a ra tio n s
P 2 0 -
1 3 TABLE
Sodium ch lo rid e . Two v a rie tie s : iodin e fo r t if ie d and n o n fo rtifie d . C ontains
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer
C D
13 13
added calcium s ilic a te f o r a n tic a k in g and d e x tro s e to s ta b iliz e
0> 1 -i
pep p er BLACK PEPPERCORNS
D ried, dark, sh rive le d be rry. Picked un rip e and allow ed to dry. S trong,
M u ltip u rp o s e fla v o r enhancer. Curing, p icklin g , sach et d'epices
p e p p e ry fla v o r. M o s t com m on o f all peppers. Two v a rie tie s : T e llic h e rry and Lam pong. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries, cracked, o r ground GREEN PEPPERCORNS
S o ft, un ripened b e rry. M ild , s lig h tly b itin g fla v o r. S im ila r to capers in appearance. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d , or packed in vin e g a r o r brine
Seasoning, fla v o r enhancer
PINK PEPPERCORNS
D ried b e rry o f th e Baies rose plan t. Rose colore d. Pungent; s lig h tly sw eet. Expensive. A vaila ble fre e z e -d rie d or packed in brine o r w a te r
Seasoning m ea t and fis h dishes, sauces
SZECHW AN
D ried b e rry o f th e p ric k ly ash tre e . R esem bles black p e pp ercorn s; deep red; c on tain s a sm all seed. H ot, spicy fla vo r.
P opular in th e cuisines o f China's Szechwan and Hunan provinces
PEPPERCORNS
A vaila ble w h ole o r pow dered W HITE PEPPERCORNS
Ripened p e p p e rco rn w ith e x te rio r skin rem oved. Beige. M ild fla v o r, flo w e ry arom a. A vaila ble as w h ole be rries,
S easoning lig h t-c o lo re d sauces and fo o d s
cracked, o r ground
c h a p te r i o
» DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
227
sweeteners
Sugar is responsible for the caramelization process,
Once a symbol of wealth and pros
perity, sugar is now widely used in all facets of the pro
balancing the acidity in foods, and contributing to the
fessional kitchen. Sugar is extracted from plant sources
appearance, flavor, and viscosity of glazes, sauces, and
(sugar beets and sugarcane) and refined into the desired
marinades. In the bakeshop, sugar adds sweetness,
form. Most varieties of syrup, such as maple, corn,
retains moisture, prolongs freshness/shelf life, aids in
molasses, and honey, are derived from plants as well.
the creaming process, and imparts color and flavor to
The flavor intensity of sweeteners typically corresponds
crusts. Selecting the proper sweetener will help deter
with the color— the darker the sugar or syrup, the more
mine the desired end product.
concentrated the flavor.
H O N EY
M A P LE SU G A R
TURBINADO
228
LIGHT BROWN SU G A R
CO A RSE S U G A R
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
LIGHT CORN S Y R U P
DARK BROWN SU G AR
SU G A R CU BES
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
Sugar s u b s titu te s . N o n n u tritiv e values. V a rie tie s include (b u t n o t lim ite d to):
Table use. N o t recom m ended f o r all b a kin g and coo kin g uses
sugar ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS
sw eeteners
Sweeteners
asp artam e , ace sulfa m e-k, saccharin, stevia , and sucralose BROWN
R efined, g ra n u la te d sugar w ith some im p u ritie s rem a ining o r m olasses added. S om ew hat m o ist. Two v a ria tio n s : lig h t and dark; dark brow n has m ore in te nse (m olasses) fla v o r
CONFECTIONERS'/ P O W D E R E D /lO X
Pure re fin e d sugar. W hite. Fine powder. M in im a l am o un t o f c o rn s ta rc h added to p re ve n t clu m pin g
G RANU LATED/W H ITE
Pure re fin e d cane or b e e t sugar. W hite. G enerally sm all granules; ava ila ble in va rio u s sizes: coarse (c ry s ta l/ d e co ra tin g ), s u p e rfin e , cubes, ta b le ts
M APLE
M aple sap boile d u n til near e va p o ra tio n . Pale tan. Fine powder. M uch s w e e te r
PILONCILLO
In baked goods, p a stry, sauces, savo ry dishes
In baked goods, p a stry, icings, c o n fe c tio n s . As d e c o ra tiv e garnish
In baked goods, p a stry, sauces, savo ry dishes
In baked goods and savory dishes.
than g ra n u la te d sugar
As sw e e t a d d itiv e to cereals, yog urt, c o ffe e , tea
U n re fin e d , hard com p resse d sugar fro m M exico. M edium to dark brow n. Cone
S u b s titu te f o r da rk brow n sugar. In savo ry dishes
shaped; 3/t-o u n c e to 9-ounce cones. Two v a rie tie s : bianco (lig h te r) and oscuro (darker) JAG GERY/PALM
RAW
U n re fin e d ; fro m palm tre e sap or sugarcane. Dark. Coarse grains.
P opular in Indian cuisine. As spread f o r breads. In baked goods,
A vaila ble in several fo rm s ; tw o m o st popular: s o ft/s p re a d a b le and solid
c o n fe c tio n s
P u rifie d sugarcane residue. Several v a rie tie s : D em erara (w h ite sugar c ry s ta ls w ith th e added m olasses; coarse grains), B arb a d o s/m u sco va d o
Coarse gra in s are b e st su ite d fo r d e c o ra tin g and as a sw e et a d d itive . F in e -te x tu re d grains used as s u b s titu te f o r lig h t brow n sugar
(m oist, dark, fin e -te x tu re grains), tu rb in a d o (steam -clea ned , lig h t brown, coarse grains) SUGARCANE
Source o f sugar; m em ber o f th e grass fa m ily. M ade ed ib le by bo iling . A vaila ble in sta lks. Less sw e e t tha n g ra n u la te d sugar
As snack, garnish
c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
229
Sweeteners, continued TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
syrup CORN
L iq u e fie d sugar c re a te d by pro cessing
In baked goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s,
co rn sta rch . Three v a rie tie s : lig h t (c la rifie d to rem ove color), dark (co lo r added, caram el fla v o r), and high
spreads
fru c to s e . Less sw e e t than g ra n u la te d sugar; th e d a rke r th e syrup, the m ore in te nse th e fla v o r. In h ib its c ry s ta lliz a tio n FLAVORED
HONEY
In baked goods, p a stry, savory dishes,
Sugar o r o th e r syrup w ith added fla v o rin g . F lavo r v a rie tie s include fr u it, nut, spice, cho colate, caram el
beverages
Thick, sw e e t liq u id pro du ced by bees fro m flo w e r nectar. Pale ye llo w to da rk brow n. F lavor in te n s ifie s as co lo r
beverages, spreads
In baked goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes,
deepens. C ountless v a rie tie s . Named acco rd in g to s p e c ific flo w e r. A vaila ble in com b, ch u n k-style , liquid, w h ipp ed MAPLE
B oile d m aple tre e sap. G olden brown. Unique fla v o r. A vaila ble in grades “ A" or "B.” A is m ore re fin e d than B
As a cco m pa nim e nt to pancakes, w a ffle s , French to a s t. In baked goods, p a stry, co n fe ctio n s, savory dishes
MOLASSES
L iq u id b y -p ro d u c t o f sugar re fin in g . Three v a rie tie s : lig h t ( f ir s t boil), dark
A cco m p a n im e n t to pancakes, w a ffle s , and French to a s t. In baked goods, p a stry, savo ry dishes
(second boil), and b la c k s tra p (th ird boil, d a rk e s t and th ic k e s t). F lavo r and arom a in te n s ifie s as co lo r deepens
230
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
sweeteners
sweeteners, continued
PILONCILLO S U G A R C A N E STICKS
PAL M S U G A R
c h a p te r 10 » DRY GOODS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
231
fats and oils
The uses for fats and oils in the
While they are similar in many ways, fat is solid at
professional kitchen or bakeshop are innumerable. Fat
room temperature, while oil is liquid. Oils are produced
provides a rich flavor, silky mouthfeel and texture, and
by pressing a high-oil food, such as olives, nuts, corn, or
pleasing aroma. It also performs a multitude of chemi
soybeans. The liquid is then filtered, clarified, or hydro
cal functions such as tenderizing, leavening, aiding in
genated to produce an oil or fat (shortening).
moisture retention, and creating flaky/crumbly textures. Fats and oils act as insulators for food, transfer heat to
The smoke point of a fat or oil greatly determines its appropriate use. For example, the higher the smoke
food, prevent sticking, emulsify or thicken sauces, and
point, the better suited it is for frying because it can
create crisp textures when used for frying.
withstand higher heat ranges.
Fats and Oils TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
S olid f a t churned fro m m ilk; a m inim um o f 8 0 % m ilk fa t, 2 0 % w a te r and m ilk solids. Q u a lity based on fla vo r, body, te x tu re , color,
C ooking, baking. In p a stry, sauces, com pound b u tte rs (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C )
fats BUTTER,W HOLE
and s a lt co n te n t. Grades: AA (fin e s t), A, B, C BUTTER, C LA R IFIED / DRAW N/GHEE FRYING FATS
P u rifie d b u tte rfa t. U n salte d b u tte r w ith m ilk so lid s rem oved. Longer s h e lf life than b u tte r.
In roux, w arm b u tte r sauces, Indian cooking, savory dishes
High sm oke p o in t
(Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 °F /2 5 2 °C )
L iq u id or m allea ble a t room te m p e ra tu re . Blended o ils or sho rte n in g s; based on
Deep fry in g (Sm oke p o in t varies)
pro cesse d corn or pe anut oils. High sm oke p o in t; long f r y life LARD
SHORTENING
S olid. R endered p o rk fa t. M ild fla v o r if processed. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. M o d e ra te sm oke p o in t S olid. M ade fro m v e g e ta b le oils, may con tain anim al fa ts ; liq u id o il ch e m ica lly tra n s fo rm e d th ro u g h h yd rog ena tion . F lavorless. Low sm oke p o in t
F rying, baking, p a s try (Sm oke p o in t 3 7 0 °F /1 8 8 °C )
Deep fry in g , baking (Sm oke p o in t 3 6 0 °F /1 8 2 °C )
oils CANOLA/RAPESEED
COCONUT
Ligh t. E x tra c te d fro m rapeseeds; s im ila r to s a fflo w e r oil. G old en -colo red . Low in s a tu ra te d fa t. N e u tra l fla v o r. F a irly high to very high sm oke p o in t
C ooking. In salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 4 0 0 °F /2 0 4 °C )
Heavy. E x tra c te d fro m d rie d coco nu t m eat.
In co m m e rcia l packaged goods, blended oils, sh o rte n in g s (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C )
N e arly co lo rle ss. N e u tra l fla v o r when d e od orize d. High in s a tu ra te d fa t. High sm oke p o in t CORN
232
R e fine d oil. M edium ye llo w color. O dorless; m ild fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
Deep fry in g . In com m e rcial salad d ressings, m argarine (Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )
|
TYPE
DESCRIPTION
COMMON CULINARY USES
COTTONSEED
Fleavy. E x tra c te d fro m c o tto n p la n t seeds. Very lig h t to pale yellow . N e u tra l fla vo r. M o d e ra te ly high sm oke p o in t
C om bined w ith o th e r oils to produce ve g e ta b le and coo kin g oils, salad dressings, m argarine, com m e rcial p ro d u c ts (Sm oke p o in t 4 2 0 °F /2 1 6 °C )
GRAPESEED
OLIVE
Lig h t. Pale color. N e u tra l fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t
S auteing, fry in g . In salad dressings
Varies in viscosity. Pale yellow to deep green (depending on typ e o f olive and processing). Q uality based on a cid ity level, the fin e s t being e xtra-virgin. Two d is tin c t classes: virgin and
Comm on to M e d ite rra n e a n cuisines. Low - to h ig h -h e a t cooking, depending on ty p e o f processing. In m arinades, salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 3 7 5 ° -4 6 5 ° F /1 9 1 024 1°C )
blended. The fla v o r o f olive oil varies g re a tly depending on region: can range fro m m ild to herbaceous to grassy to peppery. Low to high smoke point OIL SPRAYS
L ig h t v e g e ta b le oils. Blended. Packaged in pum p o r ae roso l sprays. V a rie tie s include
(Sm oke p o in t 4 8 5 °F /2 5 2 °C )
L ig h t co a tin g f o r pans and g rid d le s
ve g e ta b le , o live oil, and b u tte r-fla v o re d PEANUT
Ligh t. R efined. Clear to pale yellow . S u b tle s c e n t/fla v o r; le s s -re fin e d v a rie tie s have s tro n g e r s c e n t/fla v o r. High sm oke p o in t
Deep fry in g , s tir-fry in g . In com m e rcia l salad dressings, m argarine, s h o rte n in g (Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )
SAFFLOW ER
SALAD
L ig h t. R efined. E x tra c te d fro m s a fflo w e r seeds. C olorless. F lavorless. Very high sm oke p o in t Blended v e g e ta b le oils. S u b tle fla v o r
Deep fry in g . In salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 5 1 0 °F /2 6 6 °C )
In salad dressings, m ayonnaise (Sm oke p o in t varies)
SESAME
Two typ e s: one is lig h t and m ild w ith n u tty fla v o r, th e o th e r is da rk w ith s tro n g e r fla v o r and arom a. E x tra c te d fro m sesam e seeds. Low to m o d e ra te sm oke p o in t, de pe nd ing on ty p e
Frying, sauteing. In salad dressings, fla v o r a d d itiv e (Sm oke p o in t 3 5 0 ° -4 1 0 ° F / 1 7 7 °-2 1 0 °C )
SOYBEAN
Heavy. L ig h t yellow . Pronounced fla v o r and arom a. High sm oke p o in t
Com m on to Chinese cuisine. S tirfry in g . In com m e rcial m argarine, s h o rte n in g (Sm oke p o in t 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C )
SUNFLOW ER
L ig h t. E x tra c te d fro m s u n flo w e r seeds. Pale yellow . S u b tle fla v o r. Low in s a tu ra te d fa t. M e d iu m -lo w sm oke p o in t
A ll-p u rp o s e cooking. In salad dressings (Sm oke p o in t 4 4 0 °F /2 2 7 °C )
VEGETABLE
L ig h t re fin e d blended ve g e ta b le oils. M ild fla v o r and arom a. High sm oke p o in t
A ll-p u rp o s e cooking, deep fry in g , baking (Sm oke p o in t varies)
W ALNUT
Lig h t. U n re fin e d . Pale to m edium yellow . D e lica te n u tty fla v o r and arom a. H ighly pe rish able; re frig e ra te to p re v e n t ra n c id ity
F lavo r a d d itiv e in salad dressings, m ea t dishes, pasta, de sserts. B est used uncooked (Sm oke p o in t 3 2 0 °F /1 6 0 °C )
c h a p te r i o
» DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
miscellaneous dry goods CHOCOLATE
EXTRACTS
C hocolate is produced fro m cocoa beans, which gro w in
The ch e f uses a v a rie ty o f fla v o rin g e x tra c ts f o r coo k
a pod on th e cacao tre e . For th e an cie nt A ztecs, cocoa
ing and baking. Herbs, spices, nuts, and fr u its are used
beans served n o t only to produce d rin ks and as a com
to pre pa re e xtra c ts , w hich are alcohol based. Common
po nent o f various sauces, b u t also as currency. Today,
fla v o rs include vanilla, lemon, m int, and alm ond. E xtra cts
cho colate is usually fo u n d in a v a rie ty o f sw eets, in clu d
can lose th e ir p o te n cy if th e y are allow ed to come in
ing cakes, candies, and o th e r de sserts, although it is also
c o n ta c t w ith air, heat, o r light. To preserve flavo r, s to re
used in savory e n tre e s such as m ole poblano, a tu rk e y
e x tra c ts in tig h tly capped dark ja rs or b o ttle s away fro m
dish o f M exican origin.
heat or d ire c t light.
The cho colate e x tra c tio n process is le ng th y and has undergone a g re a t deal o f re fin e m e n t since th e days o f the A ztecs. The f ir s t stage involves crushing the kernels in to a paste; a t th is p o in t it is c o m p le te ly unsw eetened and is called ch o co la te liquor. The liq u o r is then fu rth e r ground to give it a sm oother, fin e r te x tu re , and s w e e te n ers and o th e r in g re d ie n ts m ay be added. The liq u o r may be pressed, causing cocoa b u tte r to be fo rc e d out. The cocoa solids th a t are le ft are ground in to cocoa powder. Cocoa b u tte r may be com bined w ith cho colate liq u o r to make e a tin g chocolate, o r it may be fla v o re d and s w e e t ened to make w h ite chocolate. Cocoa b u tte r also has num erous p h arm a ceutica l and co sm e tic uses. C hocolate should be sto re d , w e ll w rapped, in a cool, dry, v e n tila te d area. U nder m o st co n d itio n s, it should n o t be re frig e ra te d , since th is could cause m o istu re to condense on th e surface. S om e tim es s to re d cho colate develops a w h ite "b loo m '’; th e bloom m ere ly in dica tes th a t som e o f th e cocoa b u tte r has m e lte d and then re c ry s ta lliz e d on th e surface. C hocolate w ith a bloom can s till be used safely. Cocoa pow der should be s to re d in tig h tly sealed con tain ers in a d ry place. It w ill keep a l m o st in d e fin ite ly .
LEAVENERS Leaveners are used to give fo o d s a light, airy te x tu re . Chem ical leaveners, such as baking soda (sodium b ic a r bonate) and baking pow der (a com b in a tio n o f baking soda, cream o f ta rta r, and corn sta rch), w o rk rapidly. Baking p ow der is usually double acting, w hich means th a t one re a ctio n happens in th e presence o f m oistu re, when liquids are added to dry in g re d ie n ts, and a second occurs in th e presence o f heat, as th e ite m bakes in the oven. Yeast leavens fo o d s by th e process o f fe rm e n ta tio n , which produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The gas is tra p p e d by th e dough, c re a tin g a num ber o f sm all p o ck ets, and th e alcohol burns o f f durin g baking. Chem ical leaveners should be ke p t p e rfe c tly dry. D ried yea st can be held fo r exte nde d periods, b u t fresh ye a st has a s h o rt s h e lf life ; it w ill la st only a fe w weeks under re frig e ra tio n .
THICKENERS T hickeners are used to give liquid a ce rta in am ount o f v isco sity. The process o f fo rm in g an em ulsion is one way
VINEGARS AND CONDIMENTS V inegars and m o st con dim ents are used to in tro d u ce sharp, piquant, sw eet, or h o t fla v o rs in to fo o d s. They may be used as an in g re d ie n t o r served on th e side, to
to th icke n a liquid, as is th e process o f red uctio n. In ad d itio n , various th ic k e n in g in g re d ie n ts can be used. These include a rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, file powder, and gelatin, to name a few.
be added acco rding to a guest's ta s te . A w e ll-s to c k e d kitche n should include a fu ll range o f vinegars, m ustards, relishes, pickles, olives, jam s, and o th e r condim ents. In general, vinegars and con dim ents should be s to re d in the same m anner as oils and shortenings.
234
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
W INES, CORDIALS, AND LIQUEURS
A good cup o f c o ffe e o r te a is o fte n th e key to a re s
A general rule o f th u m b f o r s e le c tin g wines, cordials, and
tau ra nt's re p u ta tio n . The ch e f should id e n tify brands
lique urs f o r use in co o kin g and baking is: If it is n o t s u it
and blends th a t b e s t serve th e e sta b lish m e n t's sp e c ific
able f o r drinkin g, it is n o t su ita b le fo r cooking.
needs. W hereas som e o p e ra tio n s p re fe r to se le ct whole
Brandies and cognacs, Champagne, d ry red and
c o ffe e beans, o th e rs m ay be b e tte r served by buying
w h ite wines, p o rt, Sauternes, sherry, s to u ts , ales, beers,
preground, p o rtio n e d , vacuum -packed co ffe e . M any
and sw e e t and d ry v e rm o u th are com m only used in the
re s ta u ra n ts serve brew ed d e c a ffe in a te d co ffe e , and
kitch e n . For baking purposes, th e ch e f should keep
som e o ffe r espresso and cappuccino, b o th reg ular and
on hand bourbon, crem e de cassis, f r u it brandies, gin,
d e ca ffe in a te d . Teas com e in m any v a rie tie s , includ in g black tea,
Kahlua, rum , and scotch. Purchase w ines and cordials th a t are a ffo rd a b ly p riced and o f good q u a lity. Table
green tea, and herbal teas. M o s t are blends and are
w ines (Burgundies, Chablis, and Chardonnays, fo r ex
available in sin g le -se rvin g bags or in loose fo rm .
am ple) lose th e ir fla v o r and becom e acidic once opened,
A lth o u g h c o ffe e and te a g e n e ra lly keep welt, the y
e sp e cia lly when s u b je cte d to heat, lig h t, and air. To
w ill lose a lo t o f fla v o r i f s to re d to o long o r under im
pre serve fla vo r, keep th e m in closed b o ttle s or b o ttle s
p ro p e r c o n d itio n s. W hole beans o r opened co n ta in e rs o f
f it t e d w ith po u rin g spouts, and re frig e ra te when not
ground c o ffe e should be placed in an a irtig h t co n ta in e r
needed. F o rtifie d w ines (M adeiras, sherries, and po rts,
and used as soon as po ssib le to keep fla v o r and nuances
f o r exam ple) are m ore sta b le than ta b le wines and can
a t th e ir peak; te a s should be sto re d in cool, dry areas,
be held in d ry storag e. The same also applies to cordials,
away fro m lig h t and m oistu re.
cognacs, and liqueurs.
miscellaneous dry good
COFFEE, TEA, AND OTHER BEVERAGES
Prepared m ixes (pow dered f r u it d rin ks o r cocoa mixes, f o r exam ple) also should be k e p t m o is tu re -fre e . Frozen ju ice s and o th e r beverages should rem ain s o lid ly fro ze n u n til needed. Canned ju ice s should be ke p t in dry storage. R em em ber to ro ta te stock, and check all cans, boxes, and o th e r co n ta in e rs f o r leaks, bulges, rust, or mold.
Chapter 10 » DRY G O O DS ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
235
;auces, and soups PART 3
1
r . ................. .............
gif :
?
. ■
,
*.
.
••
-
.
• ,
• •
i
I I Ii
tft' . 1 -
:
: '. • ••
:
,
i
-• >
.'S
&
illlf
mm
, ..
____________________
mise e
Good cooking is the result ofjggrefully developing the best possible flavor and most perfect texture in each dish. Basic flavoring and aromatic combinations constitute the flavor base; thickeners contribute a rich, smooth mouthfeel; end liaisons lend body to stocks, sauces, and soups.
B oU Q. UE T GARNI, S A C H E T D'EPICES, A N D OIGNON B R U L E A R E T H R E E BASIC AR OM A TI C P R EP AR AT IO NS C A L L E D F O R A G A I N A N D A G A I N IN R E C I P E S . T H E S E C O M B I N A T I O N S O F A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S , H E R B S , A N D S P I C E S A R E M E A N T TO E N H A N C E A N D S U P P O R T T H E F L A V O R S O F A D I S H . T H E Y A D D F L A V O R TO S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S B Y G E N T L Y I N F U S I N G T H E LI Q. UI D W I T H T H E I R A R O M A .
bouquets, sachets and oignon brule A ll th re e o f the se a ro m a tic p re p a ra tio n s are added durin g the cooking process. Bouquets and sachets are ty p ic a lly tie d to g e th e r fo r easy rem oval durin g cooking, a fte r th e desired am ount o f fla v o r has been e xtra cte d , even b e fo re all o f th e o th e r in g re d ie n ts in a dish are fin ish e d cooking. A bo uq ue t garni is made up o f fre s h herbs and veg etab le s tie d in to a bundle. If leek is used to w rap the o th e r bouq ue t garni ingre die nts, it m ust be th o ro u g h ly rinsed o f d ir t firs t. Cut a piece o f s trin g long enough to leave a ta il to tie th e bouq ue t to th e p o t handle. This makes it easy to pull o u t th e bouquet when it is tim e to rem ove it. A sachet contains in g re d ie n ts such as peppercorns, o th e r spices, and herbs. The sea sonings are o fte n tie d up in a cheesecloth bag f o r recipes th a t are n o t stra in e d a fte r c oo k ing. A "loose" sachet, f o r w hich th e sachet in g re d ie n ts are added d ire c tly to a recipe w ith o u t f ir s t being tie d , may be used when th e liquid w ill be stra in e d a fte r the dish has fin ish e d cooking. A stan dard bouq ue t o r sachet can be m o d ifie d a little (add some c a rro t or a g a rlic clove) o r a lo t (use cardam om , ginger, o r cinnam on) to produce d iffe re n t e ffe c ts . A sachet in fu ses a liquid w ith flavo r, in the same w ay th a t a tea bag is used to make a cup o f tea. For a sm all batch o f less than a gallon, add the sachet o r bouq ue t in the la st fifte e n to th ir ty m inutes. For batches o f several gallons or m ore, add it ab ou t one hour b e fo re the end o f th e cooking tim e . C onsult s p e c ific recipes and fo rm u la s fo r guidance. When you add a bouquet or sachet to a s to ck or soup, ta s te the dish b e fo re and a fte r adding it to learn its e ffe c t on th e dish's fla v o r p ro file . If the a ro m a tics have been com bined fo llo w in g a basic fo rm u la and sim m ered long enough to infuse the dish w ith th e ir aroma, th e dish should be fla v o re d — b u t n o t ove rw h elm e d— by them . Oignon brule ("b urnt onion") and oignon pique ("pricked" or "stud de d onion") are fla v o r ing in g re d ie n ts based on whole, halved, o r q u a rte re d onions. An oignon brule is made by peeling and halving an onion and cha rring th e cu t faces in a dry s k ille t. It is used in some stocks and consom m es to provide golden brow n color. An oignon pique is prepared by s tu d ding an onion w ith a fe w w hole cloves and a bay leaf. It is used to fla v o r becham el sauce and some soups.
240
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
/
Standard Bouquet Garni
Standard Sachet d'Epices
(1 bouquet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)
(1 sachet, to flavor 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid)
1 sprig thyme
3 or 4 parsley stems
3 or 4 parsley stems
1 sprig thyme or 1 ts p /2 g dried
1 bay leaf
1 bay leaf
2 or 3 leek leaves and/or 1 celery stalk, cut in half lengthwise
1 ts p /2 g cracked peppercorns 1 garlic clove (optional)
1 carrot, cut in half lengthwise (optional) 1 parsnip, cut in half lengthwise (optional)
1B»
Ingredients fo r a standard bouquet garni
The finished bouquet garni
Ingredients fo r a standard sachet d’epices
The finished sachet d'epices
ch a p te r 11 » M IS E EN PL A C E FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
bouquets, sachets, and oignon brule
BOUQUET GARNI AND SACHET D’ EPICES
241
M ir e p o ix
is
th e
F rench
n a m e
fo r
a
c o m b in a t io n
of
o n io n s
, c a r r o t s , a n d c e l e r y , b u t it is
NO T T H E O N L Y S U C H C O M B IN A T IO N , E V E N W IT H I N T H E F R E N C H C U L I N A R Y R E P E R T O IR E . M l R E P O I X A N D S I M I L A R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E C O M B I N A T I O N S A R E I N T E N D E D TO P R O V I D E A S U B T L E B U T P L E A S I N G BA CK G R O U N D FLA VO R , S U P P O R T IN G A N D IM P R O V IN G T H E FL A V O R OF TH E F IN IS H E D D ISH .
mirepoix Onions, ca rro ts, celery (both pascal and celeriac), leeks, parsnips, garlic, to m a to e s, shal lots, m ushroom s, peppers, and ging er are am ong th e in g re d ie n ts com m only re fe rre d to as arom atics. They may be used in various com binations, as d ic ta te d by th e cuisine and the dish its e lf. Even when used in re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts, a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts make a sig n ific a n t c o n trib u tio n to a dish. For example, 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f m ire p o ix is enough to fla v o r 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L o f s tock, soup, sauce, stew, braise, o r m arinade. To g e t the b e st fla v o r fro m m ire p o ix and s im ila r pre pa ration s, th o ro u g h ly rinse and trim all th e veg etab le s f ir s t. Onion skin w ill give a sim m e ring liquid an orange o r ye llo w tin t, which may not be desirable, so de te rm in e w h e th e r to peel onions. Scrubbing, b u t n o t pe e l ing, c a rro ts and parsnips can cu t down on the prep tim e. N evertheless, some chefs peel all vegetables on the prem ise th a t fla v o r is e xtra cte d in to th e dish m ore easily; oth ers peel the m only when th e y are not strain ed o u t o f the fin is h e d dish. W heth er or n o t th e vegetables are peeled, cut them in to pieces o f a re la tiv e ly un ifo rm size, w ith th e dim ensions m atched to th e cooking tim e o f th e dish. The s h o rte r the sim m ering tim e , th e sm aller and th in n e r the cut; th e longer the tim e , th e larger and th ic k e r th e cut. Make larger cuts fo r lo ng -sim m erin g dishes such as p o t ro a sts or brown veal stock. Cut m ire p o ix sm all or slice it f o r use in uncooked marinades, pan gravies, and dishes th a t sim m er up to th re e hours. Slice m ire p o ix ve ry fin e f o r fu m e ts and stocks th a t sim m er less than one hour. M ire p o ix w ill add a d is tin c t arom a to a dish, even if the cut-up vegetables are sim p ly added to the p o t as it sim m ers. Sweating, sm othe rin g, roa sting , or brow ning the m in fa t s ig n ific a n tly changes th e ir flavo r. S ta rt by coo k ing onions in ju s t enough fa t to coa t th e b o tto m o f the pan and vegetables, then add th e ca rro ts, and fin a lly the celery. W hite stocks o r cream soups ge ne rally call fo r cooking the m ire p o ix over low heat in f a t u n til it s ta rts to give o f f some o f its own natural m oistu re, known as sweating. If th e p o t is covered as th e a ro m a tics sweat, th e tech niq ue is sm o th e r ing. Pingage is a tech niq ue derived fro m th e French pincer, "to s tiffe n or pinch”; th is te rm describes w h at happens to the to m a to e s as th e y cook in h o t fa t. For pingage, to m a to STANDARD MIR EPOIX
WHITE MIR EPOIX
paste or o th e r to m a to p ro d u c t is added to the already brow ned m ire p o ix and cooked u n til it tu rn s reddish brown.
242
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
basic formula
Standard Mirepoix
Asian Aromatics
Matignon
(1 lb /4 5 4 g)
(1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g)
(1 3 o z /3 6 9 g )
8 oz/227 g onion
8 oz/227 g garlic
3 oz/85 g ham
4 oz/113 g carrot
8 oz/227 g ginger
4 oz/113 g onion
4 oz/113 g celery
4 oz/113 g green onion
4 oz/113 g carrot
Note: The ratio is two parts onion to one p a rt celery to one p a rt carrot.
Note: The ra tio is two parts ginger to two parts garlic to one p a rt green onion.
2 oz/57 g celery 1 sprig thyme
White Mirepoix (1 lb /4 5 4 g)
4 oz/113 g onion
m irepoix
B
1 bay leaf
Cajun Trinity (1 lb /4 5 4 g)
8 oz/227 g onion 4 oz/113 g celery or celeriac 4 oz/113 g celery 4 oz/113 g parsnip 4 oz/113 g bell pepper 4 oz/113 g leek Note: The ratio is equal parts onion, celery, parsnip, and leek.
Note: The ratio is two parts onion to one p a rt celery to one p a rt bell pepper.
method at-a-glance 1. Brown the onions and carrots. 2 . Add the celery and cook
until soft. 3. For pin<;age, add tom ato
paste and brown.
Standard mirepoix
is used to flavor a variety of stocks and soups.
Tomato paste or puree is often added to the mirepoix for brown stock, gravy, stew, or soup for added flavor and color.
White mirepoix
is used to flavor white stocks and soups that should
have a mild flavor and/or pale ivory or white color.
Asian aromatics
are used in many Asian stir-fries, soups, and
sauces. Cook the aromatics until they are just fragrant as they burn easily.
Cajun tr in ity
is used in many Louisiana Creole and Cajun dishes such as
gumbo. Its usage varies widely by region and according to traditional recipes.
Matignon
is sometimes called edible mirepoix, and is used to garnish
a dish as well as to flavor it. It typically includes onions, carrots, celery, and ham cut into very neat dice. Mushrooms and assorted herbs and spices may be added as desired. Render the ham before adding remaining aromatics and cook until softened. Use according to recipe.
c h a p te r 11 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
243
1. brown the onions and ca rro ts, then add the celery. M ire p o ix can cook u n til it tu rn s a deep rich brow n (so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as caram elized), e ith e r on th e range or in th e oven. S ta rt by cooking onions in ju s t enough f a t to co a t th e b o tto m o f th e pan and vegetables, the n add th e c a rro ts , and fin a lly th e celery.
2. add tomato paste ( if using) once the m ire p o ix in g re d ie n ts are p a rtly cooked, a fte r the celery s o fte n s and c o lo r deepens. Tom ato pa ste or puree is o f te n added to th e m ire p o ix fo r brow n stock, gravy, stew, or soup f o r added fla v o r and color.
244
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
m irepoix
3. cook carefully
u n til deeply brow ned to
co m p le te pingage: cook th e to m a to pa ste u n til it tu rn s ru s ty brow n and has a sw e et aroma.
c h a p te r n
» M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SOUP S
245
R oux
TH IC KE NS S AUCE S, SOUPS, AND STEWS, AND LEND S THO SE DISHES A S PEC IAL FLAVOR. COOKING
F L O U R IN F A T I N A C T I V A T E S A N E N Z Y M E T HA T , IF N O T D E S T R O Y E D B Y H I G H H E A T , I N T E R F E R E S W I T H F L O U R ’S T H I C K E N I N G A B I L I T Y . C O O K I N G F L O U R A L S O C H A N G E S T H E F L O U R ' S R A W C E R E A L T A S T E TO A T O A S T Y O R N U T T Y FLAVOR. BO TH THE F LA V O R A ND THE COLOR B EC O M E D E EP E R THE L O N G ER THE RO U X COOKS.
roux In a d d itio n to im p ro vin g raw flo u r's fla v o r and color, cooking flo u r in fa t helps to keep the starch in the flo u r fro m fo rm in g long strand s o r clum ps when th e roux is com bined w ith a liquid. However, keep in m ind th a t th e same w e ig h t o f w h ite roux has m ore thicke ning pow er than a d a rker roux, because the brow ning process causes some o f th e starch in the flo u r to break down, m aking it unavailable fo r thickening. T here fore, th e da rker the roux, the less th icke n in g pow er it has. A ltho ug h o th e r th icke n e rs are gra du ally sup plantin g roux in th e Am erican kitche n fo r various reasons (including the longer cooking tim e req uire d to rem ove any ta s te o f raw flo u r and because it creates a heavier sauce), it is s till used extensively, perhaps because o f its European culinary h e ritag e and its several d is tin c t advantages. In a d d itio n to th ic k ening a dish, roux w ill change th e co lo r o f a sauce and, if a dark roux is used, lend it a n u tty or to a s te d flavo r. For exam ple, dark roux is p a rtic u la rly im p o rta n t in Creole and Cajun cui sines, w here it gives gum bos and stew s th e ir unique character. A n o th e r advantage o f using roux is th a t th e starches p re se n t in th e flo u r do not break down as easily as some others, cre a tin g a m ore sta b le sauce. Roux can be prepared w ith any ty p e o f w h ite w h ea t flo u r; however, th e m ost desirable is all-pu rpo se flo u r due to its sta rch con tent. Flours va ry in th e ir s ta rc h -to -p ro te in ratio. Cake flo u r, fo r instance, has a higher p ro p o rtio n o f sta rch to p ro te in than bread flo u r and w ill, th e re fo re , have m ore th icke n in g pow er than a bread flo u r roux. A ll-p u rp o se flo u r has a th icke n in g pow er betw een th e tw o. Roux called fo r in th is book was te s te d using a ll-p u r pose flou r. C la rifie d b u tte r is the m o st com m on fa t used fo r m aking roux, b u t w hole b u tte r, veg eta b le oils, rendered chicken fa t, or o th e r rendered fa ts may also be used. Each fa t w ill influence th e fin is h e d dish's flavo r. Heat th e fa t over m edium heat and add the flo u r, s tirrin g to com bine. The basic fo rm u la f o r a roux is 60 pe rce n t flo u r to 40 pe rcen t fa t (by w eight). The roux should be v e ry sm ooth and m oist, w ith a glossy sheen— n o t dry o r greasy. It should look like "sand a t low tide.” A d ju s t the roux's te x tu re by adding m ore flo u r or fa t. S tir th e roux as it cooks to keep it fro m
WHITE ROU X
246
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
BLOND
BROWN
DARK
roux
scorching, and con tinu e to cook it to th e de sire d color. To reduce th e chances o f scorching, large q u a n titie s o f roux may be placed in a m od era te oven (35 0° to 3 7 5 °F /1 7 7 ° to 191°C) to com p le te cooking. The fo u r basic colors o f roux are w h ite (barely colored o r chalky), blond (golden stra w c o lo r w ith a s lig h tly n u tty aroma), brown (deep brow n w ith a s tro n g n u tty aroma), and dark (dark brow n w ith a pronounced n u tty fla v o r and aroma). Once the roux is cooked to its de sired doneness, it is ready to use, o r it may be cooled and sto re d fo r later. Roux can be com bined w ith liquid in th re e ways. Cool roux may be added to h o t liquid, cool liquid may be added to h o t roux, o r w arm roux may be added to liquid o f th e same te m p e ra tu re . For any approach, though, fo llo w the se general guidelines:
» Avoid temperature extremes to prevent lumping. » Cool or room temperature roux can be incorporated into hot liquid more easily than icecold roux because the fat is not as solid. » Very cold liquid should not be used, as it will initially cause the roux to harden. » Extremely hot roux should be avoided, because it may spatter when combined with a liquid and cause serious burns. The fu ll th icke n in g actio n o f th e roux becom es e vid e n t when th e liquid has reached ap p ro x im a te ly 2 0 0°F /93°C . Long-cooking sauces and soups are fu rth e r thicke ne d through red uctio n.
PURE STARCH SLU RR IE S A rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, and o th e r pure starche s have g re a te r th icke n in g power, ounce fo r ounce, than flo u r and do n o t req uire an extended sim m e ring tim e like roux. They also lend much less co lo r o r none a t all to a fin a l dish. However, keep in m ind th a t th e y break down m ore qu ickly over tim e than does roux. A rro w ro o t, corn sta rch, tap ioca , p o ta to starch, and rice flo u r are all pure starches. They are made in to slu rrie s by d isp e rsin g them in cold liquid. T horoughly blend the sta rch and liquid to ab ou t the con sisten cy o f heavy cream. S lu rries can be blended in advance and held to use du rin g a la m in ute pre pa ration s. If n o t used im m e dia te ly, th e sta rch w ill s e ttle o u t o f th e liquid and fa ll to th e b o tto m o f th e container. S tir th e s lu rry ju s t b e fo re use to recom bine the starch evenly w ith th e liquid. Pour or ladle th e s lu rry in to sim m e ring liquid w h ile s tirrin g c o n sta n tly. When added in th is way, slu rrie s qu ickly th icke n the liquid, m aking it easy f o r th e ch e f to c o n tro l th e fin a l con sisten cy o f th e dish. W hisk co n s ta n tly to pre ve n t lum ping and scorching. B ring the liq uid back to a boil and cook ju s t u n til th e sauce reaches th e desired th ickn e ss and c la rity. Dishes thicke ne d w ith slu rrie s have lim ite d holding periods. Be sure to check p e rio d i cally f o r q u a lity if th e y m ust be held in a steam tab le. Various starche s have som ew hat d iffe re n t q u a litie s b u t may be s u b s titu te d one fo r th e other, fo llo w in g th e fo rm u la on the next page.
Chapter n
» M IS E EN P L A C E FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
247
Q to substitute a pure starch for roux BASIC EQUATION
EXAMPLE:
Weight of flour in roux [multiply weight o f roux by 0.6 to determine weight of flour] x Thickening power of replacem ent starch [see below] = Esti-
To substitute arrowroot in a recipe that calls for 10 oz/284 g of roux: 10 o z /2 8 4 g roux x 0.6 = 6 o z /1 7 0 g flour
m ated weight of replacem ent starch required
6 o z /1 7 0 g flou r x 0.5 [arrowroot thickening power] = B o z /8 5 g arrowroot
thickening powers Rice flour:
0.6
Arrowroot:
0.5
Cornstarch:
0.5
Tapioca/Cassava flo u r
0.4
Potato starch:
0.2
common thickening starches and their characteristics RICE FLOUR Translucent. Relatively weak thickening power. Freezes well. Fairly expensive. ARROWROOT More translucent than cornstarch. Thickening power roughly equivalent to cornstarch. Does not gel or weep when cooled. CORNSTARCH Translucent. Thickens when heated, but thickening power diminishes with ex cessive heating. Gels and weeps upon cooling. TAPIOCA/CASSAVA FLOUR Translucent. Thickening power slightly greater than cornstarch. Available from Asian food purveyors. Moderately priced. POTATO STARCH Translucent. More thickening power than cornstarch. Moderately priced.
248
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
m ixtu re of egg y o l k s a n d crea m
S O U P S IS C A L L E D A L I A I S O N .
A
THAT
is u s e d
TO
enrich
AND SLIGHTLY
thicken s a u c e s and
L I A I S O N IS N O T A T H I C K E N E R IN T H E S A M E W A Y T H A T R O U X A N D P U R E
S T A R C H S L U R R I E S A R E , B U T T H E C O M B I N A T I O N O F C R E A M A N D E G G S , W H E N P R O P E R L Y S I M M E R E D IN A
liaison
The
DISH, A D D S S H E E N , S M O O T H N E S S , B O D Y , A N D F L A V O R A S W E L L A S A L I G H T G O L D E N " ! V O R Y COL OR.
liaison Egg yolks no rm ally begin to coagulate a t 149°F /65°C . The a d d itio n o f cream raises th e co agulation p o in t to 18 0° to 1 8 5 °F /8 2 ° to 85°C. M ix th e cream and egg yolks to g e th e r u n til evenly blended. Add a p o rtio n o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison to avoid a d ra stic heat change, which could cause th e yolks to curdle. This process, known as te m p e rin g , reduces te m p e ra tu re e xtre m e s so th e fin is h e d soup o r sauce rem ains sm ooth. G radually add ab o u t oneth ird o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison, a la d le fu l a t a tim e , w h iskin g c o n sta n tly. W hen enough h o t liquid has been added, re tu rn th e te m p e re d liaison to th e soup o r sauce. Return th e p o t to low heat and g e n tly w arm the m ixture , s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til it th icke n s slig h tly. Do n o t allow th e m ix tu re to go beyond 18 5 °F /8 5 °C or th e egg yolks m ig h t curdle. For reasons o f q u a lity, add th e liaison as close to service tim e as possible. Hold soups and sauces th icke n e d w ith a liaison above 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C f o r fo o d s a fe ty reasons b u t below 1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C to m aintain qu ality.
basic formula (by weight) method at-a-glance Blend the cream and egg yolks. Temper the hot liquid into the liaison.
Liaison (IOV 2 fl oz/315 mL, to thicken 24 fl oz/720 mL liquid) 8 fI oz/240 mL cream 2Vi f I oz/75 mL egg yolk (about 3 large) Note: The ratio fo r liaison is three ports cream to one p o rt egg yolk.
3. Combine the tem pered
liaison w ith the dish. Warm, s tirrin g frequently, until slightly thickened.
Chapter 11 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS , SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
249
1. begin with a hot soup,
sauce, or
dish such as Veal B la n q u e tte (page 597). Blend the cream and egg yolks to g e th e r u n til evenly com bined. Egg yolks n o rm a lly begin to coa gu late a t 14 9 °F /6 5 °C . The ad d i tio n o f cream raises th e coa gu latio n p o in t to 180° to 1 8 5 °F /8 2 ° to 85°C. S lo w ly add some o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison to te m p e r it. A dd in g a p o rtio n o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaiso n avoids a d ra s tic heat change, w hich could cause th e yolks to curdle. This process, known as te m p e r ing, reduces te m p e ra tu re e xtre m e s so th e fin is h e d soup or sauce rem ains sm ooth. G radually add ab ou t o n e -th ird o f th e h o t liquid to th e liaison, a la d le fu l a t a tim e, w h is k ing co n sta n tly.
2. add the tempered liaison
back
to th e dish. W hen enough h o t liq u id has been added, re tu rn th e te m p e re d liaison to th e soup or sauce. Return th e p o t to low heat and g e n tly w arm the m ixture , s t ir rin g fre q u e n tly , u n til s lig h tly thicke ne d. Do n o t allow the te m p e ra tu re to go beyond 1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C or the egg yolks m ig h t curdle. Add th e liaison as close to service tim e as possible. Hold soups and sauces th icke n e d w ith a liaison above 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C f o r fo o d s a fe ty reasons, b u t below 1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C to m a intain q u a lity.
250
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
butter
is m a d e b y h e a t i n g w h o l e
butter
u n til the
b u tte rfa t and
m ilk s o lid s
s e p a r a t e . W h e n w h o l e b u t t e r is c l a r i f i e d , s o m e o f i t s v o l u m e is l o s t d u r i n g s k i m m i n g a n d D E C A N TIN G : 1 L b / 4 5 4 G OF BU TTE R W IL L Y IE L D A P P R O X IM A T E L Y 1 2 O z / 3 4 0 G OF C L A R IF IE D BUTTER.
U s i n g s a l t e d b u t t e r f o r c l a r i f y i n g is n o t r e c o m m e n d e d b e c a u s e t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s a l t in t h e r e s u l t i n g c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r is u n p r e d i c t a b l e . U n s a l t e d c l a r i f i e d b u t t e r c a n a l w a y s be s a l t e d a s i t 's u s e d .
clarified butter
clarified butter
C la rifie d
Q basic formula Clarified Butter (12 oz/340 g) 1 lb/454 g butter
method at-a-glance
expert tips
M e lt th e b u tte r. S kim o f f th e fo a m . D e c a n t th e c la rifie d b u tte r.
The purpose o f clarifying b u tte r
is to remove its milk
solids and water. This makes it possible to cook with butter at a higher tem perature than is possible with whole butter. Clarified butter is commonly used to make roux. Because it adds some butter flavor, it is often used for sauteing, sometimes in combination with vegetable oil. Some chefs also prefer it for warm butter sauces such as hollandaise and bearnaise. Ghee, which is used in some Asian cuisines, is a type of clarified butter. It has a nutty flavor because the milk solids are allowed to brown before they are separated from the butterfat.
c h a p te r n
» M IS E EN PLA CE FOR STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
251
1. melt the butter and skim o f f the foam . H eat th e b u tte r over low heat u n til fo a m rises to th e su r face and th e w a te r and m ilk solids drop to the b o tto m o f th e pot. The rem a ining b u tte r fa t becom es very clear. Skim th e surface fo a m as th e b u tte r c la rifie s using a ladle, screen skim m er, o r p e rfo ra te d spoon.
2. decant the clarified butter.
Pour
or ladle o f f th e b u tte r fa t in to a n othe r container, ca re fu lly leaving all o f th e w a te r and m ilk solids in the pan b o tto m . A f te r w hole b u tte r is c la rifie d , some o f its volum e is lo s t due to skim m ing, decanting, and disca rd in g th e w a te r and m ilk solids. One lb /4 5 4 g o f w hole b u tte r y ie ld s a p p ro x i m a te ly 12 o z /3 4 0 g o f c la rifie d b u tte r.
252
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
stocks Stocks are among the most basic preparations found in any professional kitchen. In fact, they are referred to in French as fonds de cuisine, the "foundations of cooking." A stock is a flavorful liquid prepared by simmering meaty bones from meat or poultry, seafood, and/or vegetables in water with aromatics until their flavor, aroma, color, body, and nutritive value are extracted. The liquid is then used to prepare sauces, soups, and as a braising and simmering cooking medium fo r vegetables and grains.
W
hite s t o c k s
,
bro w n
st o c k s
,
and
fu m et s a re the th ree
basic t y p e s
of st o ck
.W
hite st o cks
A R E M A D E B Y C O M B I N I N G A L L O F T H E I N G R E D I E N T S W I T H A C O O L LI Q. UI D ( T Y P I C A L L Y W A T E R ) A N D S I M M E R I N G O V E R G E N T L E HEAT. B R O W N S T O C K S A R E M A D E B Y B R O W N I N G T H E B O N E S A N D M I R E P O I X IN E N O U G H F A T TO P R O D U C E A R I C H M A H O G A N Y C O L O R , E I T H E R B Y R O A S T I N G IN T H E O V E N O R O N T H E STOVETOP, B E F O R E S IMM ER IN G. F u M E T S ( S O M E T IM E S KN OW N A S E S S E N C E S ) C A L L FOR SWEATIN G OR S M O T H E R I N G T H E M A I N I N G R E D I E N T S B E F O R E S I M M E R I N G , O F T E N W I TH T H E A DD IT I ON O F D R Y W H I T E WI NE.
For good fla v o r and body, use m ea ty bones and fis h bones. They can be acquired as a by p ro d u ct o f m eat and fis h fa b ric a tio n or purchased solely fo r stock. Bones fro m younger anim als contain a high percentage o f ca rtila g e and o th e r connective tissue s th a t break down in to g e la tin du rin g sim m e ring and give the s to ck body. Knuckle, back, and neck bones are good f o r s to ck as well. Include any w holesom e trim fro m fa b ric a tio n , if available, to fu rth e r b o ls te r flavo r. Cut bones in to B -in /8 -cm lengths f o r q u icke r and m ore tho ro ug h ex tra c tio n o f flavo r, ge la tin, and n u tritiv e value. If bones are purchased frozen , th a w them b e fo re sim m e ring fo r stock. Rinse all bones, fre s h or frozen, th o ro u g h ly b e fo re p u ttin g the m in to the sto ckp o t, to rem ove blood and o th e r im p u ritie s th a t can com prom ise th e q u a lity o f th e stock. For brown stocks, prepare th e bones and trim by ro a stin g the m fir s t; fo r m ore in fo rm a tio n , see page 263. Trim and cut m ire p o ix to a size th a t w ill allow fo r good fla v o r e xtra ctio n . A 2 -in /5 -c m rough cut or slice is good f o r a sim m e ring tim e o f one hour. Cut vegetables larger or sm aller fo r longer o r s h o rte r sim m e ring tim e s. The m ire p o ix and to m a to paste called f o r in brown stocks are roa ste d or sauteed u n til browned b e fo re the y are added to the stock. S tocks also include a sachet d’epices or bo uq ue t garni co n ta in in g a ro m a tics su ite d to th e typ e o f s to ck being made. Because th e s to ck w ill eve ntua lly be strain ed , some chefs do n o t tie up sachet o r bouq ue t ingre die nts. However, ty in g makes it easy to rem ove the a ro m a tics i f th e ir fla v o r becom es to o strong. Pots used f o r stocks are usually ta lle r than th e y are wide. This ty p e o f p o t creates a sm aller surface area so th e eva po ration ra te is m inim ized durin g sim m ering. Some sto ckp o ts have sp ig o ts a t th e b o tto m th a t can be used to rem ove th e fin is h e d sto c k w ith o u t d is tu rb in g th e bones. C o urt bouillons, fu m e ts, and essences th a t do not have long s im m e r ing tim e s can be prepared in rondeaus or o th e r wide, shallow pots. T iltin g or stea m -jackete d k e ttle s are o fte n used fo r large-scale pro du ction. Ladles o r skim m ers should be on hand to rem ove scum fro m th e s to ck as it sim m ers. Cheesecloth, sieves, and colanders are used to separate th e bones and veg etab le s fro m the stock. A th e rm o m e te r and m etal con ta in e rs f o r cooling, as w ell as p la s tic con tain ers fo r s to rin g the stock, should be on hand. Tasting spoons w ill also be needed.
254
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
basic formula Meat or Poultry Stock
Fish Stock
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
8 lb/3.63 kg bones and trimmings
11 lb/4.99 kg nonoily fishbones
5 to 6 qt/4.80 to 5.76 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix (page 243)
10 oz/284 g mushrooms, sliced 3 '/i qt/3.36 L water 1 q t/9 6 0 mL white wine
1 lb/454 g Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)
4
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
I Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) 2 tbsp/20 g salt (optional)
Vegetable Stock Fish Fumet (1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L) 5 lb/1.36 kg assorted nonstarchy vegetables
I I lb/4.99 kg nonoily fish bones, cut in 2-in/5-cm pieces
5 q t/4.80 L water
1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix (page 243), sliced thin
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices or
method at-a-glance 1. Combine the major flavoring ingredient and liquid. 2. Bring to a simmer. 3. Skim as necessary
throughout cooking time. 4. Add the m irepoix
and aromatics at the appropriate point. 5. Simmer the stock until it
develops flavor, body, and color.
The flavor o f the stock
can be changed or deepened depend
ing on the ingredients used. Certain stocks generally use basic mirepoix combinations (see page 243), but more ingredients can be added to produce the desired flavor. This is also true of the standard bouquet garni and sachet d'epices, whose ingredients can be expanded to produce deeper and more var ied flavors. The flavor can also be affected by the use of fresh versus frozen bones and trim.
For a healthier option:
sto ck is an excellent way to infuse flavor
into a dish without adding fat or excess calories. Use it to cook grains, veg etables, meats, sauces, or soups.
6. Strain. 7. Use im m ediately or cool
and store.
ch a p te r 12 » STOCKS
Ingredients fo r w hite stock
Ingredients fo r brown veai stock
256
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
stocks
Ingredients fo r fish fu m e t
Ingredients fo r vegetable stock
ch a p te r 12 » ST OCKS
257
1. combine the bones w ith cool liquid to cover by tw o inches and b ring the m slo w ly to a sim m er in an a p p ro p ria te size s to c k p o t. Skim as necessary. For the b e st fla v o r and c le a re s t stock, s ta r t w ith a cool liquid (w a te r o r rem o uilla ge; see page 2 6 1 ) to g e n tly e x tra c t fla v o r and body. M a in ta in a bare sim m er th ro u g h o u t the coo kin g process. Bubbles should break the surface o f the s to ck in fre q u e n tly . The French use the verb fre m ir, m eaning "to trem ble," to de scrib e th e a ctio n o f the bubbles as th e s to c k cooks.
m eth o d in d etail 2. skim the liquid c o n s is te n tly to produce a clear stock, and re g u la te the p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re . The French verb d e p o u ille r, lite ra lly "to skin o r peel," is used to de scrib e th e skim m in g process. A p a rt fro m the ae s th e tic s o f a cle ar stock, th e im p u ritie s th a t leave a sto c k cloudy are th e same elem e nts th a t w ill q u ickly spoil and sour a stock. T h e re fo re , th e cle a re r th e stock, the lo ng er its s h e lf life .
258
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
vor. The rig h t tim e to add m ire poix to all stocks except fish
stocks
3. add the mirepoix to the s to ck a t the a p p ro p ria te tim e to e x tra c t th e m axim um am ount o f f la
stocks, fu m e ts, and c o u rt bouillons is about tw o hours be fo re the end o f cooking tim e. Adding m ire poix a t th is point w ill allow enough tim e fo r th e be st fla v o r to be extracte d bu t n o t so much tim e th a t the fla v o r is broken down and destroyed. O th er arom atics, such as a sachet d'epices or bouquet garni, should be added in the last 30 to 45 m inutes o f cooking. Since fis h stocks, fum ets, essences, and court bouillons do not have extended cooking tim es, the m irepoix in gre die nts are no rm ally cut sm aller and added near the beginning o f th e sim m e ring tim e, and they remain in the sto ck th ro u g h o u t cooking. NOTE FOR FISH STOCK: Combine the bones w ith the cool w a te r and a ro m a tics and sim m er g e n tly fo r 3 5 to 45 m inutes. This is som etim es called the sw im m ing m ethod, to disting uish i t fro m fu m e t made by the sw eating m ethod. NOTE FOR FISH FUMET: S w e at the m ire poix and mush rooms, fo llo w e d by the fis h bones p rio r to adding the water.
4. add a sachet ab ou t 45 m inutes b e fo re the s to c k has fin is h e d s im m e rin g to o b ta in th e m ost flavo r. S im m er u n til th e de sire d fla vo r, aroma, body, and color are achieved. Sm ell and ta s te th e s to c k as it develops so th a t you can begin to u n de rsta nd its stages and notice when it has reached its peak. Once th e s to ck reaches th a t p o in t, fu rth e r coo kin g w ill cause fla v o rs to becom e fla t. Even th e co lo r o f th e s to c k may be s lig h tly o f f if it sim m ers to o long.
c h a p te r 12 » STOCKS
259
5. strain the stock and use it im m e d ia te ly or cool it p ro p e rly. Pour o r ladle th e s to ck o u t o f the p o t th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve or a colan der lined w ith rinsed cheesecloth. D istu rb th e solid in g re d ie n ts as little as po ssib le f o r th e cle a re s t sto ck. Once you have rem oved as much s to c k as po ssib le by ladling, drain th e rem a in ing s to c k th ro u g h a colan der in to a bowl. Then s tra in the sto ck th ro u g h che ese cloth o r a fin e -m e sh sieve to rem ove any rem a ining im p u ritie s , if desired. Reserve th e bones and m ire p o ix to pre pa re a rem ouillage, i f desired (see page 261).
6. cool the stock over an ice bath, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til it reaches 40 °F /4 °C , if n o t using im m e d i ate ly. Skim any fa t th a t rises to the surface or w a it un til it has hardened under re frig e ra tio n and sim p ly li f t it away b e fo re re h e a tin g th e sto c k fo r la te r use. Evaluate th e q u a lity o f th e fin is h e d s to ck on th e basis o f fo u r c rite ria : fla v o r, color, arom a, and c la rity . If th e c o r re c t ra tio o f bones, m ire p o ix, and a ro m a tics to liquid has been used and th e c o rre c t pro ced ure has been follow e d, th e fla v o r w ilt be w e ll balanced, rich, and fu ll-b o d ie d , w ith th e m ajor fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t d o m in a tin g and th e fla v o rs o f th e a ro m a tics un ob tru sive. The co lo r o f s to cks w ilt vary by typ e . Q u a lity w h ite sto c k s are clear and lig h t to golden when hot. Brown sto cks are a deep am ber or brow n due to th e p re lim in a ry ro a s tin g o f th e bones and m ire poix. Veg e ta b le sto c k s va ry in co lo r acco rding to main in gre die nt.
260
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
M aking stocks take s bo th tim e and money. If y ou r kitch e n prepares stocks, you should be sure you fo llo w th e c o rre c t procedures fo r coo lin g and s to rin g them . S elect a s to ck to use in a dish based upon e ith e r recipe req u ire m e n ts or th e e ffe c t you hope to achieve, and al ways check a s to ck b e fo re using it to make sure it is s till fla v o rfu l and w holesom e. Boil a sm all am ount and ta s te it. The arom a should be appealing, n o t o ve rly pungent or sour.
REMOUILLAGE T ranslated fro m th e French as "rew etting,'' rem o uilla ge is made by re se rvin g th e sim m ered
stock guidelines
general guidelines for stocks
bones and m ire p o ix fro m a s to ck and sim m e ring th e m a second tim e . Rem ouillage may also be made fro m the c la rific a tio n r a ft used to prepare Consomme. This secondary sto c k o f w eaker s tre n g th can be used as th e liquid f o r s to cks and b ro th s o r as a cooking m edium, or reduced to a glace.
GLACE Glace is a highly reduced s to ck or rem ouillage. As a re s u lt o f con tinu ed red uctio n, the s to c k acquires a je lly -lik e o r syrupy con sisten cy and its fla v o r is highly co n cen tra te d. When chilled, a glace becom es ru b b e ry because o f th e high co n ce n tra tio n o f g e la tin. Glaces are used to b o o st th e fla v o r o f o th e r foo ds, p a rtic u la rly sauces. W hen th e y are re c o n s titu te d w ith w ater, th e y m ay also serve as a sauce base in much th e same w ay as a com m e rcially prepared base. Glaces are made fro m d iffe re n t kinds o f stock; th e m o st com m on is glace de viande, made fro m brow n veal stock, b e e f stock, or rem ouillage.
COMMERCIAL BASES N o t all kitche ns prepare stocks tod ay, e ith e r because m ea ty bones and trim are n o t rea d ily available on a co n s is te n t basis or because the y do n o t have the space o r m anpow er to succe ssfully prepare and hold stocks. C om m ercially pre pa red bases are the n used in place o f stocks. Even in kitche ns th a t do prepare stocks, bases are h e lp fu l to have on hand to deepen and im prove the s to c k ’s flavo r. Bases are available in highly reduced fo rm s (sim ila r to th e classic glace de viande) and de hyd rated (pow dered or cubed). N o t all bases are crea te d equal, however. Read th e labels ca re fu lly. Avoid bases th a t re ly on high-sodium in g re d ie n ts f o r fla vo r. Q ua lity bases are made fro m m eats, bones, vegetables, spices, and aro m atics. Prepare th e m according to th e package in s tru c tio n s and ta s te each one. Judge th e base on its flavo r, saltiness, ba l ance, and depth. A fte r de cid ing th a t a base m eets your stan dard s f o r q u a lity and cost, learn how to make any a d ju stm e n ts necessary. For exam ple, you m ig h t sw e at o r ro a s t m ore vegetables and sim m er th e m in a d ilu te d base, perhaps along w ith brow ned trim , to make a rich brown sauce.
c h a p te r 12 » STOCKS
261
COOKING TIMES FOR STOCKS The following cooking times are approximate; the times will vary according to numerous factors such as ingredient quality, total volume, and the cooking temperature.
W HITE BEEF STOCK
8 to 10 hours
W HITE AND BROWN VEAL AND
6 to 8 hours
GAME STOCKS W HITE POULTRY AND GAME BIRD
B to 4 hours
STOCKS
262
FISH STOCK AND FUMET
35 to 45 m in utes
VEGETABLE STOCKS
45 m in u te s to 1 hour, de pe nd ing on th e s p e c ific in g re d ie n ts and th e size o f th e v e g e ta b le cut
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
Brown Veal Stock
Makes l gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8 lb /3.63 kg chicken bones, cut in 3-in /8-cm lengths
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
5 to 6 q t/4 .8 0 to 5.76 L cold water
8 lb /3.63 kg veal bones, including knuckles and trim
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
6 q t/5 .7 6 L cold water
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1)
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix ingredients (page 243), separate
1 . Rinse the bones under cool running water and place them in an appropriate size stockpot.
stock recipes
Chicken Stock
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
2 . Add the cold water to cover the bones by about 2 in/5 cm- Slowly bring to a simmer. Skim the surface as necessary.
3 . Simmer for 3 to 4 hours at approximately i8o°F/82°C.
4 . Add the mirepoix and sachet and continue to sim mer the stock 1 hour more, skimming as necessary and tasting from time to time.
5 . Strain the stock. It may be used now (degrease by skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored for later use. NOTES: Replace 2 lb/907 g o t the chicken bones w ith chicken necks fo r an extra-rich, gelatinous stock. Add or replace arom atic ingredients to achieve a particular flavor. For an Asian-flavored chicken stock, add ginger, lemongrass, and fresh or dried chiles. Juniper berries can be added to game bird stocks along with strongly flavored herbs, such as tarragon or rosemary, or wild mushroom stems. Since these ingredients are very strong, use discretion when adding so as not to overflavor the stock. W h ite Veal S tock: Replace the chicken bones w ith an equal amount o f veal bones and simmer fo r 6 to 8 hours. W hite B ee f S tock: Replace the chicken bones w ith an equal amount o f beef bones and simmer fo r 8 to 10 hours.
1 . Condition the roasting pan: Heat the pan with enough oil to lightly film it in a 4250 to 45o°F/2i8° to 232°C oven. If the bones are extremely fatty, no oil is necessary. The fat will render during the roasting process and the pan will be lubricated. Adding oil at the beginning could be a waste. Spread the bones in the pan and return to the oven. Roast the bones, stirring and turning from time to time, until they are deep brown, 30 to 45 minutes.
2 .. Transfer the bones to a stockpot large enough to ac commodate all of the ingredients. Add 5V2 qt/5.28 L of the water and bring to a simmer at i8o°F/82°C.
3 . Discard the excess fat from the roasting pan but reserve some for making the pipage. Return the roasting pan to the oven or place it on the range, depending on the stove space available. Caramelize the carrots and onions. When they have attained a rich brown color, add the celery and cook it until it begins to wilt and shrivel, 10 to 15 minutes. (Celery will not brown very much because of its high water content.)
4 . Once the proper color of the mirepoix has been at tained, add the tomato paste and continue to cook slowly until the pin^age has a rich brick reddishbrown color. Once the tomato paste has been cooked, remove the mixture from the pan. Add the remaining water and deglaze the fond off the bottom of the pan. Reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency. It is now ready to be added to the stock.
5 . After the stock has simmered for about 5 hours, add the mirepoix mixture, reduced deglazing liquid, and the sachet. 6 . Continue to simmer the stock at 180° to i 85°F/82° to 85°C, skimming as necessary and tasting from time to time, until it has developed a rich flavor, notice able body, and rich brown color, about 1 hour more.
ch a p te r 12 » STOCKS
263
7 . Strain the stock. It may be used now (degrease by skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored
Fish Fumet Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
for later use. 2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil Brown Game S to ck (Jus de G ibier): Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an equal amount o f game bones and trim. Include fennel seeds and/or ju nip er berries in a standard sachet d'epices. E stou ffad e: Replace half the veal bones and trim w ith beef bones and trim and add an unsmoked ham hock. Brown Lamb S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an equal amount o f lamb bones and trim . Add one or more of the follow ing herbs and spices to the sachet d'epices:
I lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced White Mirepoix (page 243) 10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced white mushrooms I I lb /4.99 kg nonoily fish bones 4'/2 q t/4 .3 2 L cold water 1 q t/ 9 60 mL white wine 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
m int stems, juniper berries, cumin seeds, caraway seeds, or rosemary.
1 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau and sweat the mire
Brown Pork S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an equal amount o f fresh or smoked pork bones and trim. Add one or more o f the follow ing herbs and spices to
Cover the pot and smother over medium heat until
a sachet d'epices: oregano stems, crushed red pepper, caraway seeds, or mustard seeds. Brown Chicken S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim with an equal amount of chicken bones and trim. Brown Duck S tock: Replace the veal bones and trim w ith an equal amount o f duck bones and trim (or bones o f other game birds, such as pheasant). Include fennel seeds and/ or juniper berries in the sachet d'epices, if desired.
poix and mushrooms followed by the fish bones. the mirepoix is soft and the bones are opaque, 10 to 12 minutes.
2 . Add the water, wine, and sachet and bring to a sim mer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C.
3 . Simmer uncovered for 35 to 45 minutes, skimming the surface as necessary.
4 . Strain the fumet. It may be used now (degrease by skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored for later use. S he llfish S tock: Replace the fish bones w ith an equal amount o f crustacean shells (shrimp, lobster, or crab). Saute the shells in hot oil until the color deepens. Add a standard mirepoix (page 243) and saute until tender. If desired, add 3 oz/85 g tom ato paste and cook until it takes on a deep red color, about 15 minutes. Add enough w ater to cover the shells and simmer at 180° to 185°F/82° to 85°C fo r 40 minutes, skimming throughout
STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
Court Bouillon
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
5 lb /2.27 kg nonstarchy vegetables (leeks, tomatoes, mushrooms, etc.)
5 q t/4 .8 0 L cold water 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine vinegar
5 q t/4 .8 0 L cold water 2 lb /9 0 7 g sliced onion 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1) 1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced carrot
1 . Place all the ingredients into an appropriate size stockpot.
stock recipes
Vegetable Stock
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced celery 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
2 . Bring to a simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C, skimming as necessary.
3 . Simmer until a balanced fresh vegetable flavor is attained, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4 . Strain and cool to room temperature. Store in the refrigerator until use.
1 . Combine all of the ingredients in a stockpot large enough to accommodate them and simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C for 1 hour.
2 . Strain the court bouillon. It may be used now or rap idly cooled and stored for later use.
Roasted Vegetable Stock: Combine the vegetables with 2 fl oz/6 0 mL vegetable oil and roast in a large pan at 400°F/204°C ,turning to make sure all sides are evenly browned, 15 to 2 0 minutes. Combine the roasted vegetables w ith the w ater and sachet and simmer fo r 45 minutes to 1 hour.
c h a p te r 12 » ST OCKS
265
Poultry and Meat Stock (Brodo) Makes l gal/3.84 L
Ichi Ban Dashi Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 2 pieces kombu, 3-in/8-cm squares 1 g al/3 .8 4 L cold water
1 stewing hen (about 6 lb /2.72 kg), excess skin and fa t removed
2 to 3 o z/5 7 to 85 g dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi)
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg beef shank 2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg chicken wings
1 . Slash the kombu with a knife in a few places and wipe it with a damp cloth to remove sand; do not
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg turkey bones, cracked
remove any of the flavorful white powder. (Undesir
8 o z/2 2 7 g chicken feet
able flavors and a gooey, gelatinous texture develop if
I V 2 gal /5 .7 6 L cold water 3 lb /1.36 kg roughly chopped Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 5 garlic cloves, crushed
the center of kombu is exposed or boiled.)
2 . Combine the cold water and kombu in large stain less-steel stockpot. Bring to just below a boil over medium heat. Before it begins to boil, remove the kombu; reserve if desired (see Note).
2 bay leaves 6 parsley stems V 2 bunch thyme
3 . Add the dried bonito and turn off the heat. Steep 2 minutes.
4 . Skim carefully. Gently strain the dashi and reserve the solids. The dashi may be used now or rapidly
1 . Rinse all of the meat and bones twice with hot water.
cooled and stored for later use.
Drain.
2 .. Place the meat and bones in a large stockpot and cover with water by 6 in/15 cm- Bring to a simmer at
kombu and drained bonito w ith 1 q t/9 6 0 mL water, simmer fo r 2 0 minutes, and strain. Use the second dashi
180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C over medium heat, skim
in dipping sauces, dressings, stews, or braises, or for
ming as necessary.
cooking vegetables.
3 . Add the mirepoix, garlic, bay leaves, parsley, and thyme. Continue to slowly simmer over medium-low heat for 6 hours, skimming often. Take care not to let the broth boil, as boiling will make it cloudy.
4 . Strain the broth. It may be used now (degrease by skimming, if necessary) or rapidly cooled and stored for later use.
266
NOTE: For niban dashi (second dashi), combine the reserved
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
sauces Sauces are often considered one of the greatest tests o f a chef's skill. The successful pairing of a sauce with a food demonstrates technical expertise, an understanding of the food, and the ability to judge and evaluate a dish's flavors, textures, and colors.
At
one
tim e
espagnole
the
and
term
brown
sauce
dem i-glace. Today
it
was
equated
may a ls o
e x clu sive ly
indicate
jus
w ith
de v e a u
the
cla ssic
lie,
pan
sauces
sauces,
or
re d u c tio n -s ty le sauces based on a brow n o r fo r tifie d stock.
brown sauce Espagnole sauce is prepared by b o ls te rin g a brow n veal s to ck w ith a d d itio n a l roasted m irepoix, to m a to pingage, and a ro m a tics and th icke n in g it w ith brow n roux. Classically, dem i-glace is com posed o f equal p a rts espagnole and brow n s to c k and reduced by h a lf or to a nappe consistency. These days, it may be made o f brow n sto c k w ith a d d itio n a l brow ned trim and m ire poix, and reduced to a nappe con sisten cy and o p tio n a lly thicke ne d w ith a starch slu rry. Jus lies are made by reducing brown sto cks o r f o r tifie d sto cks (w ith added fla vo rin g s, if desired) and th icke n in g the m w ith a pure sta rch slu rry. Pan sauces and re d u ctio n sauces are produced as p a rt o f th e ro a s tin g or sau tein g cooking process; th icke n in g can be accom plished by re d u ctio n or th e a d d itio n o f roux o r pure s ta rch slurries. Regardless o f th e approach taken, th e end goal is the same; to make a basic brow n sauce th a t is fla v o rfu l enough to be served as is b u t can also be used as the fo u n d a tio n f o r o th e r sauces. The u ltim a te success o f the brown sauce depends d ire c tly on the base stock, usually Brown Veal S to ck (page 26 3). The sto c k m ust be o f e xce lle n t q u a lity, w ith a rich and w ellbalanced fla v o r and aroma, and w ith o u t any s tro n g notes o f m ire poix, herbs, or spices th a t m ig h t overw helm th e fin ish e d sauce. Bones and trim , cut in sm all pieces fo r fa s te r e x tra c tio n , are added to the base sto ck to im prove its flavo r. M ire p o ix, cut in to large dice, may also be added. However, if th e s to ck is e xtre m e ly fla v o rfu l, a d d itio n a l bones, trim , and m ire p o ix m ay n o t be necessary. M ushroom trim , herbs, garlic, or sh a llo ts may also be added to the sauce as it develops. Roux (see page 2 4 6) is one th ick e n in g op tion . It m ay be prepared ahead o f tim e or may be prepared as p a rt o f the sauce-m aking process. The th icke n e r o f choice f o r jus lie is cornstarch, although a n othe r pure starch, such as p o ta to s ta rch o r a rro w ro o t, m ay be used. C ornstarch is p re fe ra b le because it re su lts in a tra n slu ce n t, g lossy sauce. Jus lie is ge ne rally prepared in a saucepan o r p o t th a t is w id e r than it is ta ll. This is the m o s t e ffe c tiv e means o f e x tra c tin g fla v o rs fu lly and qu ickly in to th e fin ish e d sauce. You w ill also need a kitche n spoon, ladle, or skim m e r to skim th e developing sauce, and ta s tin g spoons, fin e -m e sh strain ers, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d sauce. A d d itio n a l co n ta in ers are necessary fo r bo th coo lin g and s to rin g the sauce.
268
STOCKS, SA U C E S , A N D SO U P S
basic formula
Brown Sauce
Oil, for browning bones,
Jus Lie
(1 ga 1/3.84 L)
trim, and mirepoix
(1 gal/3.84 L)
4 lb/1.81 kg additional
5 to 6 oz/142 to 170 g
2 lb/907 g veal trim
bones and trim
tomato paste or puree
1 lb/454 g large-cut Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb/454 g Standard
brown sauce
D
Mirepoix (page 243)
5 qt/4.80 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
2 oz/57 g tomato paste 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
5 qt/4.80 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 lb 2 oz/510 g Brown Roux (see page 246)
method at-a-glance
3 to 4 oz/85 to 113 g cornstarch or arrowroot Cold stock or water as needed to bring the slurry mixture to the
Brown Sauce
consistency of heavy cream
Brown the bones, trim , and mirepoix. 2. Add the tom ato product;
saute to pingage. 3. Incorporate the stock.
expert tips
Simmer 2 V 2 to 3 hours; skim as necessary. Add the sachet d'epices or bouquet garni during the last hour o f simmering.
To improve the flavor:
A d d itio n a lin g re d ie n ts such as the f o l
low ing m ay be added as th e sauce develops: BONES A N D T R IM / M IR E P O IX , C UT INTO S M A L L PIEC ES / M U S H R O O M T R IM , C U T IN TO LARGE DICE / HERB S / GA R LIC / S H A LLO TS
Whisk in the roux and simmer fo r 30 minutes.
To thicken the sauce
6. Strain and use or cool and store properly.
The texture—and to some extent the
color— of a brown sauce depends on the type of thickener used. Any one of the following may be used for thickening, depending on your desired results:
Jus Lie
R O U X / PUREED M IR E P O IX / R E D U C TIO N (D E M I-G L A C E ) / PURE STARCH (ARR O W RO O T, POTATO STA R CH , OR C O R NSTAR C H)
Brown the trim , mirepoix, and tom ato paste.
Finishing
2. Add the liquid and bring to
Some ingredients may be added to the simmering sauce after
it has finished cooking:
a boil. W IN E TH A T HAS R EDUCED FROM D E G LA ZIN G OR HAS S IM M E R E D W ITH
3. Reduce the heat and
A R O M A T IC S / F O R T IFIE D W IN E S SUCH AS PORT, M A D E IR A , OR S H E R R Y / W HOLE B UTTE R , COLD OR AT R OOM TE M P E R A TU R E
simmer; skim as necessary. Add the thickening agent.
G a m i s h i n g A garnish of precooked high-moisture ingredients may be
5. Strain.
added before serving:
6. Finish, garnish, and use.
M U S H R O O M S / SH A L LO T S / TO M ATO ES
j
c h a p te r 13 » SA UCES
269
1. brown the bones,
trim , and m ire poix
in a ro a s tin g pan or h e a v y -b o tto m e d s to c k p o t. The fla v o r o f th e base s to c k is usually f o r t if ie d w ith w e ll-b row n ed m ea ty bones, lean trim m eat, and m ire poix, or a com m ercial base. B row ning the se in g re d ie n ts w ill enrich the fin is h e d sauce and help darken its color. Brown them by ro a s tin g in a litt le o il in a h o t oven (425° to 4 5 0 °F /2 1 8 ° to 232°C ) o r over m edium to high heat on the sto v e to p in th e same large s to c k p o t th a t w ill be used to sim m er the sauce. L e t th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix reach a deep golden brown. A llo w th e to m a to paste to "cook out" (pince) u n til ru s t colore d to reduce excessive sweetness, a cid ity, and b itte rn e s s . This m etho d also encourages the d e velopm e nt o f th e sauce's overall fla v o r and aroma. If b ro w n ing th e m ire p o ix in the oven, add th e to m a to p ro d u ct to th e ro a s tin g pan w ith th e vegetables. If brow ning th e m ire p o ix on th e s to ve to p , add th e to m a to p ro d u ct when th e veg etab le s are nearly brow ned. Be c a re fu l not to le t th e to m a to paste burn, as it cooks o u t v e ry qu ickly on th e sto ve to p . If you brow ned the bones, trim , and m ire p o ix in the oven, tra n s fe r the m to th e s to c k p o t. Discard any excess
m eth o d in d etail
fa t, deglaze th e ro a s tin g pan, and add the deglazing liquid to the sauce. O therw ise, deglaze th e s to c k p o t w ith some o f the stock. Add th e rem a ining brow n s to c k to th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix and sim m er f o r 2 to 4 hours, skim m ing as neces sary th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . (See photog rap h on page 25 8.) L e t th e sauce base sim m er long enough fo r the ric h e s t po ssib le fla v o r to develop. S kim th e surface o fte n th ro u g h o u t sim m e rin g tim e . P ulling th e p o t o f f ce n te r on th e bu rne r encourages im p u ritie s to c o lle c t on one side o f th e pot, w here th e y are easier to collect.
2. add the sachet
a n d /o r o th e r a ro m a tics
as th e fla v o r develops, ab o u t an hour b e fo re straining. S im m e ring develops fla v o r in tw o ways: e x tra c tin g fla v o r fro m th e bones, trim , and m ire p o ix and reducing th e v o l ume o f liq u id to co n ce n tra te the flavo r. Taste th e sauce base fre q u e n tly as it develops and ad ju st th e seasoning as necessary by adding o r rem o ving aro m atics, such as a sachet, or adding seasonings. Remove fro m the heat once th e de sire d fla v o r is achieved, 3 to 5 hours. O ptional: Add a pre pa red brow n roux now and sim m er f o r 15 to 20 m inutes, if desired, to prepare an espagnole sauce. For ju s lie, add a pure sta rch s lu rry e ith e r b e fo re or a fte r stra in in g , if desired, and sim m er u n til thicke ne d, 2 to 3 m inutes.
270
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
brown sauce
3. strain the sauce using a fin e -m e sh sieve or a double th ickn e ss o f cheesecloth. It is now ready to fin is h f o r service o r may be cooled ra p id ly and sto re d . The te x tu re , and to som e e xte n t, th e co lo r o f a brow n sauce depend on th e ty p e o f th ic k e n e r used. A rou x-th icke ned brown sauce (espagnole) is opaque w ith a th ic k body. A sauce thicke ne d w ith pureed m ire poix is also th ic k and opaque but w ith a s lig h tly rougher, m ore ru s tic te x tu re . A sauce thicke ne d w ith bo th roux and red uctio n (dem i-glace) is tra n slu ce n t and highly glossy, w ith a noticeable body, although it should never fe e l ta cky in the mouth. A pure sta rch -th icke n e d sauce (jus lie), as shown in the accom pa nying photograph, has a g re a te r degree o f c la rity than oth er brown sauces, as w ell as a lig h te r te x tu re and color. How ever, it cannot be cooled and reheated like a roux thickened sauce because the starch w ill lose its thicke ning power. Finish as desired and hold a t 16 5°F /74°C fo r service. If th e sauce base has been cooled, re tu rn it to a s im m er and make any necessary a d ju s tm e n t to its fla v o r or consistency. If th e sauce req uire s a d d itio n a l thicke ning, e ith e r reduce it by s im m e rin g over m edium heat to the de sire d th ickn e ss o r nappe or add a sta rch s lu rry now. If th e sauce has alrea dy been th icke n e d w ith a roux or by red uctio n, no a d d itio n a l th ic k e n e r is necessary. Brow n sauces can be fin is h e d fo r service by adding red uctio ns, f o r t if ie d wines, garnishes, a n d /o r w hole b u t ter. Brown sauces so m e tim e s develop a skin when the y are held uncovered. To avoid th is , use a f it te d cover fo r th e b a in -m a rie or a piece o f pa rchm e nt paper o r p la s tic wrap cu t to f i t d ire c tly on th e surface o f th e sauce.
4. a brown sauce o f e xce lle n t q u a lity has a fu ll, rich fla vo r. The in itia l ro a s tin g o f bones, trim m in g s, and m ire p o ix gives th e fin is h e d sauce a plea sant roa ste d or caram el arom a, re a d ily d isce rn ib le when th e sauce is heated, and a p re d o m in a n t fla v o r o f ro a ste d m ea t or veg etables. The m ire p o ix, to m a to , and a ro m a tics should n o t ove rpo w er th e main fla v o r. There should be no b itte r or b u rn t fla vo rs. Good brow n sauces have a deep brow n co lo r w ith o u t any dark specks o r debris, as shown on rig h t. The color is a ffe c te d by th e c o lo r o f th e base sto ck, th e am ount o f to m a to p ro d u c t used (to o much w ill give a red cast to th e sauce), th e am ount o f c a ra m e liza tio n on th e trim and m ire poix, p ro p e r skim m ing, and th e length o f sim m e ring tim e (re d u ctio n fa c to r), as w e ll as any fin is h in g o r g a rn ish ing in g re d ie n ts.
ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES
271
Examples of Brown Sauce Derivatives NAME OF DERIVATIVE
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING
TYPICALLY SERVED WITH
BIGARADE
C aram elized sugar d ilu te d w ith vinegar, ora n g e ju ice , and lem on ju ices. Finish w ith blanched fin e ly ju lie n n e d orange and lem on zests
F eath ered game, duck
BORDELAISE
Red wine, sh a llo ts, pe pp ercorn s, thym e, and bay leaf. Finish w ith lem on ju ice, m ea t glaze, and diced or sliced poached bone m arro w
G rille d red m eats, fis h (in c o n te m p o ra ry cooking)
BOURGUIGNONNE
Red w ine, sh a llo ts, thym e, parsley, bay leaf, and m ushroom s. Finish w ith w hole b u tte r and a pinch o f cayenne pe pp er
Eggs o r b e e f
BRETONNE
Onions, b u tte r, w h ite wine, to m a to e s , and g a rlic. Finish w ith a pinch o f
Green Beans a la B retonne
co a rse ly chopped parsley CHARCUTIERE
Sauce R o b e rt fin is h e d w ith ju lie n n e d cornichons
Sm oked pork
CH ASSEUR/
M ushroom s, s h a llo ts, w h ite wine,
B e e f and fu rre d game
H U N T S M A N ’S
brandy, and to m a to e s . Finished w ith b u tte r and herbs (tarrag on , che rvil, a n d / o r parsley)
CHERRY
P o rt wine, pa te spice, orange ze st and ju ice , red cu rra n t je lly , and che rries
Duck o r venison
P oivrade Sauce w ith bacon in the
B eef, fe a th e re d o r fu rre d game
CHEVREUIL
m ire p o ix, red wine. (Use game trim m in g s in place o f bacon fo r fe a th e re d game.) Finish w ith a pinch o f sugar and cayenne DIANE
M ire p o ix , game trim , bay leaf, thym e,
F eath ered o r fu rre d game
parsley, w h ite wine, and pe pp ercorn s. Finish w ith b u tte r, w h ip p e d cream , and sm all cre sce n ts o f t r u f fle and cooked egg w h ite
272
FINANCIERE
M adeira w ine and t r u f f le essence
B ee f
GENEVOISE/GENOISE
M ire p o ix , salm on trim , and red wine. Finish w ith anchovy essence and b u tte r
Salm on and tr o u t
GRATIN
W h ite wine, fish , sh a llo ts, and parsley
Sole or o th e r w h ite fis h
ITALIENNE
T om atoes and ham. (When p re p a rin g fo r fish , o m it ham.) Finish w ith ta rra g o n , che rvil, and parsley
P o u ltry o r fis h
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING
TYPICALLY SERVED WITH
MATELOTE
Red wine, m ushroom s, fis h trim , parsley, and cayenne
Eel
M USHROOM
M ush roo m s and b u tte r
B eef, veal, p o u ltry
POIVRADE
M ire p o ix, gam e trim , bay leaf, thym e, parsley, w h ite wine, and pe pp ercorn s. Finish w ith b u tte r
F urred game
REGENCE
Red wine, m ire p o ix, b u tte r, and t r u f fle
S auteed live rs and kidneys
ROBERT
Onions, b u tte r, and w h ite w ine. Finish w ith a pinch o f sugar and English dry
G rille d p o rk
brown sauce
NAME OF DERIVATIVE
m ustard , d ilu te d ZIN G AR A
S h a llo ts, bread crum bs, and b u tte r. Finish w ith p a rsle y and lem on ju ice
Veal o r p o u ltry
c h a p te r 13 » SAUCES
273
The
w hite sa u c e
FAMILY
includes
TH E C L A S S I C S A U C E S V E L O U T E A ND B E C H A M E L , BOTH P R O DU CE D
BY THI CK E N IN G A LIQUID WITH ROUX . A
CLASSIC VELOUTE, WHICH TR A NSLA TES FROM FREN C H AS
" V E L V E T Y , S O F T , A N D S M O O T H TO T H E P A L A T E , " IS P R E P A R E D B Y F L A V O R I N G A W H I T E S T O C K ( V E A L , CH ICKEN, OR
fish
) W I T H A R O M A T I C S A N D T H I C K E N I N G IT W I T H B L O N D R O U X . I n E S C O F F I E R ’S T I M E , A
B E C H A M E L S A U C E W A S M A D E B Y A D D I N G C R E A M TO A R E L A T I V E L Y T H I C K V E L O U T E S A U C E . T O D A Y , IT IS M A D E BY T H I CK E NI NG MI L K ( S O M E T I M E S IN FU S ED WITH A R O M A T I C S FOR F LA V O R ) WITH A PA L E ROUX.
white sauce S tock (veal, chicken, fish, or vegetable) or m ilk used to make w h ite sauces may be bro ug ht to a sim m er and, if desired, infused w ith aro m atics and fla vo rin g s to produce a special fla v o r a n d /o r color in the fin ish e d sauce. Blond roux is the tra d itio n a l th icke n e r fo r veloutes; blond or w h ite roux may be used fo r a bechamel (the darker the roux, th e m ore golden th e sauce w ill be). The am ount o f roux d e term in es the thickness o f a w h ite sauce (see page 246). A d d itio n a l m ire poix, m ushroom trim , o r m em bers o f th e onion fa m ily are som etim es added, e ith e r to stre n g th e n the fla v o r o f th e sauce or to cre a te a sp e c ific fla v o r p ro file . Cut the m in to sm all dice or slice them th in ly to encourage rapid fla v o r release in to the sauce. W hite sauces scorch easily, and th e y can ta ke on a grayish cast if prepared in an alu m inum pan. Choose a heavy nonalum inum p o t w ith a p e rfe c tly f la t b o tto m f o r th e best results. S im m er w h ite sauces on a fla tto p fo r gentle, even heat, o r use a heat d iffu s e r if available. The liquid used to make a w h ite sauce is d iffe re n t depending on the desired use and w h e th e r it is a ve lo u te or a bechamel. Liquids used to make ve lo u te include w h ite veal stock, chicken stock, fis h stock, or veg etab le stock. The liquid used to make becham el is ty p ic a lly m ilk.
274
STOCKS, SAUCES, A N D SO U P S
White Sauce
Butter or oil, as needed
1 lb/ 454 g White or Blond Roux (page 246)
(1 gal/3.84 L) Aromatics (white mirepoix, minced onions or oignon pique, or mushroom trim; meat trim), as needed
5 q t/4.80 L flavorful liquid (white stock for veloute;
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices or
milk for bechamel)
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) Seasonings, as appropriate, as needed
method at-a-glance Sweat aromatics, if necessary. Make or soften roux. Combine liquid and roux.
white sauce
Q basic formula
expert tips Additional seasonings
may be added depending on the desired
flavor profile and the richness of the stock. Mirepoix and vegetable trim from mushrooms or onions would be added at the beginning of the cooking process, while aromatics such as a sachet should be added during the last 30 minutes of simmering. When adding cheese, it should be grated and stirred in after the
Bring to a boil.
sauce has been thickened, and simmered before straining.
Pull the pot o ff center of the heat.
ADDITIONAL SEASONINGS A SA C H E T D 'E P IC ES OR B O U Q U E T G A R NI / R O ASTED TO M ATO PR OD UC T /
Skim and s tir frequently. Simmer. Add seasonings as needed.
GRATED CHEESE
Using d iffe re n t amounts o f roux vary the consistency of sauce, which is necessary depending on the desired use. The following amounts
Strain.
are based on 1 gal/3.84 L liquid.
Finish, garnish, and use, or cool and store.
For a light consistency fo r soups, add 10 to 12 o z /2 8 4 to 3 4 0 g blond or white roux. For medium consistency fo r most sauces, increase the amount of roux to 12 to 14 o z /3 4 0 to 3 9 7 g. For heavy consistency as a binder fo r croquettes, fillings, stuffings, or baked pasta dishes, increase the amount of roux to 1 lb 2 oz to 1 lb 4 o z /5 1 0 to 5 6 7 g.
A heavy bechamel
should be strained by the wringing method us
ing cheesecloth because it is too thick to pass through a fine-mesh strainer.
c h a p te r 13 » SAUCES
275
1. sweat the aromatics in a sm all am ount o f b u tte r o r oil. A ny m ea t trim included should be g e n tly cooked w ith th e m and n o t brow ned a t all. There are several m etho ds o f in c o rp o ra tin g th e roux in to the w h ite sauce. The f ir s t is to add flo u r to th e f a t and aro m atics in th e p o t and cook, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . The roux is then cooked in th e pot, as p a rt o f th e sauce-m aking process ("singer"). Add m ore o il o r b u tte r as needed to produce a roux o f th e a p p ro p ria te consistency. L e t th e roux cook fo r ab ou t 4 to 5 m in u te s o r to a lig h t blond co lo r (as shown in th e accom panying photograph). A n o th e r m etho d is to add a pre pa red roux to th e s o f t ened a ro m atics. A fin a l m ethod is to add th e liquid to the a ro m a tics and b rin g it to a sim m er; later, w h isk a prepared roux in to th e sim m e rin g liquid. In e ith e r case, the roux should be w arm when it is added to th e h o t stock. Add th e liquid to th e roux gradually. M any chefs add cool or ro o m -te m p e ra tu re s to c k o r m ilk to the roux. O th ers p re fe r to b rin g th e liq u id to a sim m er separately, which allow s the m to ad ju st th e seasoning w ith salt, pepper, o r o th e r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts. If th e liquid is preheated, it should be rem oved fro m th e heat so th a t its
m eth o d in d etail
te m p e ra tu re dro ps s lig h tly , m aking it coo le r than the hot roux. Add th e liq u id in stages, w h iskin g u n til very sm ooth betw een ad d itio n s.
2. add the sachet, seasoning, or o th e r a ro m a tics and sim m e r fo r 30 m in utes on low to m e dium heat, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly and ta s tin g th ro u g h o u t the cooking tim e . V ery rich sto c k s may n o t req uire a d d itio n a l a ro m atics. If desired, e ith e r in fu se the liquid w ith them when p re h e a tin g o r add a sach et o r bouq ue t garni once th e sauce re tu rn s to a sim m er. A sim m e ring tim e o f at le a st 30 m in utes is long enough to cook away any raw f la v o r fro m th e roux. Use a wooden spoon to s tir the sauce occa sio nally w h ile it sim m ers. Make sure th a t the spoon scrapes th e b o tto m and corners o f the pot, to prevent scorching. (S corching is o f m ore concern w ith becham el than w ith velou te , because m ilk solids ten d to se ttle .) Taste th e sauce fre q u e n tly as it develops, a d ju stin g th e seasoning as necessary. To te s t th e te x tu re , hold a sm all am ount o f th e sauce on y o u rto n g u e and press it a g ainst th e ro o f o f your m outh. If the sauce is ad eq ua te ly cooked, th e re w ill be no ta cky, gluey, o r g r itty sensation.
276
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
white sauce
3. strain the sauce. As the sauce sim m ers, it a lm o st in e v ita b ly develops a th ic k skin on its surface as w e ll as a heavy, gluey layer on th e b o tto m and sides o f the pot. S tra in in g th e sauce rem oves any lum ps and develops a very sm oo th te x tu re . The sauce is ready to use now, or it may be cooled and s to re d f o r la te r use. Finish as desired and hold th e sauce a t 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C f o r service. If th e sauce has been cooled, re tu rn it to a sim m er over low heat, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . M ake any necessary ad ju s tm e n ts to th e con sisten cy, and add any fin is h in g in g re dients. For w h ite sauce d e riv a tiv e s , th e base sauce may be fla v o re d w ith a re d u ctio n or essence and garnished. W h ite sauces are also o fte n fin is h e d w ith cream. W h ite sauces may develop a skin i f held uncovered. To avoid th is, use a f it t e d cover on th e bain -m a rie or place a piece o f p a rchm e nt paper o r p la s tic w rap d ire c tly on the surface o f th e sauce. An e xce lle n t w h ite sauce m eets sev eral c rite ria . The fla v o r re fle c ts th e liq u id used in its p re p aration. The sauce should be tra n slu ce n t, w ith a d e fin ite sheen. A good w h ite sauce is p e rfe c tly sm ooth, w ith no tic e a b le body and no graininess. It is th ic k enough to coa t th e back o f a spoon y e t s till easy to pour fro m a ladle.
ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES
277
Examples of Sauce Veloute Derivatives NAME OF DERIVATIVE
FLAVOR ADDITIONS AND FINISHING
TYPICALLY SERVED WITH
ALBUFERA
Sauce Suprem e, m ea t glaze, and p im ie n to b u tte r
Poached and braised p o u ltry
ALLEM AN D E/PAR ISIEN N E
M ushroom s, egg y olks, and lem on
P o u ltry
AMERICAINE
Anchovies, fis h trim , and b u tte r
Fish
AURORE
Tom ato puree
Eggs, w h ite m eat, and p o u ltry
AURORE MAIGRE
Fish trim and b u tte r
Fish
AUXCREVETTES
Fish trim , cream, shrim p shells, and b u tte r
Fish and ce rta in egg dishes
BERCY
S ha llots, w h ite wine, fis h trim ,
Fish
b u tte r, and chopped parsley BONNEFOY
W h ite B ord elaise w ith w h ite wine and ve lo u te in ste a d o f espagnole. Finish w ith ta rra g o n
G rille d fis h and w h ite m eats
BRETONNE
Fish trim , cream , leeks, celery,
Fish
onions, and m ushroom s CHIVRY
W h ite wine, che rvil, parsley, ta rra g o n , s h a llo ts, chives, and
Poached and b o ile d p o u ltry
fre s h young salad b u rn e t DIPLOMATE
Fish trim , b u tte r, lo b s te r m eat,
W hole large fis h
and t r u f fle NORMANDE
Fish trim , m ushroom s, mussels, le m o n ju ic e , and egg yolks
Sole N orm ande and a w ide range o f o th e r fis h dishes. A lso used as base
SUPREME
M ushroom s, cream , and b u tte r
P o u ltry
VILLERO Y
M ushroom s, egg yolks, lemon, ham, and t r u f fle
Used to co a t ite m s to be breaded
VIN BLANC
Fish trim , egg yolks, and b u tte r
Fish
STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
N A M E OF D E R IVA TIVE
FLAVOR A D D IT IO N S AND F I N I S H IN G
T Y P IC A L L Y S ER VED W IT H
BOHEMIENNE
Tarragon. Served cold
Cold fis h , poached salm on
CARDINAL
T ru ffle s and lo b s te r
Fish, tr u ffle s , and lo b s te r
ECOSSAISE/SCOTCH EGG
Eggs
Eggs
H O M A R D A L ’A N G LA IS E /
A nchovy essence. G arnished w ith
Fish
LOBSTER
diced lo b s te r m e a t and cayenne
HUITRES/OYSTER
O yster. G arnished w ith sliced poached o yste rs
Poached fis h
MORNAY
G ruyere and Parm esan. Finish w ith b u tte r
Poached fis h
SAUCE A L'AN G LAISE/ EGG
Eggs and nutm eg
D e sse rt sauces
chapter 13 » S A U C E S
white sauce
Examples of Sauce Bechamel Derivatives
279
To m
ato
s a u c e s
of
a l l
so rts
,
fro m
fr esh
and
sim ply
s e a s o n e d
to
c o m p l e x
and
highly
S E A S O N E D , A R E F E A T U R E D IN C U I S I N E S A R O U N D T H E W O R L D . T O M A T O S A U C E IS A G E N E R I C T E R M U S E D TO D E S C R I B E A N Y S A U C E B A S E D M A I N L Y O N T O M A T O E S . T O M A T O S A U C E S C A N B E M A D E S E V E R A L W A Y S . Th
e y m a y be raw or c o o k e d
,a
n y w h e r e f r o m t e n m in u t e s to s e v e r a l h o u r s
O L I V E O I L IS T H E O N L Y C O O K I N G FAT. F
or
. In
so m e v e r s io n s
,
O T H E R S , R E N D E R E D S A L T P O R K O R B A C O N IS R E Q U I R E D . S O M E
RE CI PE S C A L L FOR RO AS TE D V E A L OR PO R K BONES; OT HE R S AR E M A D E ST RI CT L Y F R O M TO MA TO ES AND OTHER V E G E T A B L E S . S O M E TOMATO S A U C E S A RE P U R E ED UNTIL S MOO TH W H I L E OT HE RS ARE LEFT CH U N K Y . E S C O F F I E R 'S TOMATO S A U C E RE LIE D ON R O U X AS A TH IC KE NE R .
tomato sauce Good to m a to sauce can be made fro m fre s h or canned to m a to e s. When fre s h to m a to e s are a t th e ir peak, it may be a good idea to use them exclusively. A t o th e r tim e s o f the year, g o o d -q u a lity canned to m a to e s are a b e tte r choice. Plum to m a to e s, som etim es re fe rre d to as Romas, are gene rally p re fe rre d fo r to m a to sauces because the y have a high ra tio o f fle s h to skin and seeds. Fresh to m a to e s may be skinned and seeded f o r sauce, or the y may be sim p ly rinsed, cored, and qu a rte re d or chopped. Canned to m a to e s come peeled and whole, crushed or pureed, o r a com b in ation o f th e tw o. Tom ato paste is som etim es added to th e sauce as well. There are many choices fo r a d ditiona l fla v o rin g ingredients. Some recipes call fo r a sta n dard m ire poix as the aro m atic vegetable com ponent, w hile oth ers rely on ga rlic and onions. Choose a heavy-gauge p o t made o f nonreactive m a te ria ls such as stain le ss stee l or anodized alum inum , because to m a to e s have a high acid con te n t. Because o f the high sugar co n te n t o f some to m a to e s, you w ill need to e sta blish an even heat w ith o u t h o t spo ts so the sauce w ill not scorch. Use a fo o d m ill to puree th e sauce. For a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re , you may w ish to use a blender, im m ersion blender, or fo o d processor. A good to m a to sauce is opaque and s lig h tly coarse, w ith a co n ce n tra te d fla v o r o f t o m atoes and no tra ce o f b itte rn e s s or excess a c id ity or sw eetness. The in gre die nts selected to fla v o r th e sauce should provide only su b tle underpinnings. Tom ato sauces should pour easily. The sauce on th e rig h t was not pureed w hile the sauce on th e le ft was pureed using the fin e opening o f a fo o d m ill.
280
S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
Tomato Sauce (1 gal/3.84 L) 2 f I oz/60 mL oil or other cooking fat 12 oz/340 g minced onion 2 tbsp/18 g garlic, minced
10 to 12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg fresh tomatoes or 5 qt/4.80 L canned tomatoes with liquid
smoked meats, stock, thickener (roux or pure starch slurries) Salt, as needed
Additional ingredients or preparations (depending on
Ground black pepper, as needed
tomato sauce
Q basic formula
formula or intended use): tomato puree and/or paste, carrots or mirepoix, fresh and/or dried herbs,
method at-a-glance expert tips
Sweat the onion and garlic. 2. Add the remaining
ingredients and bring to a simmer. 3. S tir frequently.
Simmer.
To develop d iffe re n t flavors,
add any of the following ingre
dients at the appropriate time. Some are added early in the cooking process, while others are added near the end so they retain their individual flavor and fresh taste. Onions and other aromatics added at the very beginning of the cooking process may be sauteed until lightly browned rather than until just
Puree, if desired. Finish, garnish, and use, or cool and store.
tender for additional depth of flavor. FRESH A N D /O R D RIED HERBS / S M O K ED M E A TS / S M O K E D H AM BONE OR PORK BONE / TO M ATO PASTE OR PUREE / O N IO N S A ND C ARROTS, SW EATED AND C H O P P E D /S T O C K
When appropriate,
a tomato sauce may be thickened with any of
the following: R O U X / PURE STARCH S LU R R IE S
The type o f tom a to product
used will have a definite effect
on the final product. Any of the following may be used, alone or in combination: FRESH TO M ATO E S / C AN N ED TO M ATOES: W H O LE, PEELED, D IC E D , PUREED, OR C R U S H E D /T O M A T O PASTE
Depending on
the desired finished consistency of the tomato sauce,
it may be pureed.
ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES
281
1. cook the onions and garlic w ith oil in a heavy-gauge n o nre active s to c k p o t o r saucepot u n til te n d e r and to th e desired color. Sw eat or saute the a ro m a tic veg etab le s g e n tly to release th e ir fla v o r in to th e f a t to help th e fla v o r pe rm e a te the sauce. The way th e veg etab le s are cooked in flue nces th e fla v o r o f the fin is h e d sauce: th e veg etab le s are usually sw eated in a fa t u n til th e y becom e tender, b u t f o r a m ore com plex ro a ste d flavo r, th e y may be sauteed u n til lig h tly browned.
2 .
add the tomatoes and any rem aining
in g re d ie n ts and sim m e r u n til th e fla v o r is fu lly developed. S tir fre q u e n tly , skim m ing and ta s tin g th ro u g h o u t the coo kin g tim e . If desired, add fre s h herbs ju s t b e fo re the sauce has fin is h e d cooking. (A fre s h c h iffo n a d e o f basil can be added a t th is point.)
m eth o d in d etail
C ooking tim e varies, depending on th e ingredients. B ut in general, th e less coo kin g tim e , th e b e tte r f o r any sauce based on fr u its or veg etab le s. E xtended cooking d i m inishes th e fre s h fla v o rs . M o s t to m a to sauces should be cooked ju s t long enough fo r the fla v o rs to m eld tog ether. If a to m a to sauce th a t is n o t go in g to be pureed is to o w a te ry, s tra in it and reduce th e excess liquid sep ara te ly to avoid overcooking. S tir to m a to sauce fre q u e n tly th ro u g h o u t pre pa ration , and check th e fla v o r occasionally. If it becom es necessary to c o rre c t a harsh or b itte r fla vo r, sw e at a sm all am ount o f chopped onion and c a rro t and add the m to the sauce. If th e fla v o r is weak, add a sm all am ount o f reduced to m a to pa ste or puree. Too much sw eetness may be c o rre cte d by adding stock, w a te r, or m ore to m a to e s. Puree th e sauce, i f desired, using a fo o d m ill. If using a blender, a sm all am o un t o f o il added durin g p ureeing w ill e m u ls ify th e sauce, c re a tin g a lig h te r y e t th ic k e r con sis tency. Pureeing the sauce w ith a blen der w ill lighte n the co lo r o f the sauce, changing it fro m red to orange, which may n o t be desirable. Check the balance and seasoning o f th e sauce and make any necessary a d ju stm e n ts to its fla v o r and con sis te n cy by adding s alt, pepper, fre s h herbs, or o th e r in g re d ie n ts as in d ica te d in the recipe. A t th is po in t, th e sauce is ready to be served. It may be fin is h e d f o r service as desired (see recipes), o r it may be cooled and stored .
282
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
N O T O N L Y O N S K I L L F U L L Y C O M B I N I N G EG G Y O L K S , W A T E R , A C I D , A N D B U T T E R I N T O A R I C H , S M O O T H S A U C E , B U T A L S O O N T H E Q U A L I T Y O F T H E B U T T E R I T S E L F . H O L L A N D A I S E S A U C E IS P R E P A R E D B Y E M U L S I F Y I N G M E L T E D OR C L A R I F I E D B U T T E R A N D W A T E R ( i N T H E F O R M O F A N A C I D I C R E D U C T I O N A N d / o R L E M O N J U I C E ) W I T H P A R T I A L L Y C O O K E D EG G Y O L K S .
hollandaise sauce
hollandaise sauce
S i n c e t h e l a r g e s t p a r t o f h o l l a n d a i s e is b u t t e r , t h e s u c c e s s o r f a i l u r e o f t h e s a u c e d e p e n d s
A num ber o f sim ila r w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauces, as th is group o f sauces is som etim es known, can be prepared by varying the in g re d ie n ts in the re d u ctio n o r by adding d iffe r e n t fin is h in g and garnishing in g re d ie n ts such as tarrag on . The group includes bearnaise, choron, and m ousseline sauces. H ollandaise can also be com bined w ith w hipped cream a n d /o r ve lo u te to prepare a glagage, and used to coa t a dish th a t is then lig h tly browned under a salam ander o r b ro ile r ju s t b e fo re service. M e lte d w hole b u tte r or c la rifie d b u tte r may be used in a hollandaise. Some chefs like m e lte d w hole b u tte r f o r th e rich, cream y fla v o r it im p a rts to a sauce b e st f o r m ost meat, fish, vegetable, and egg dishes. O thers p re fe r c la rifie d b u tte r, f o r a s t if fe r sauce, o f par tic u la r advantage if the sauce is to be used in a glagage. W hate ver th e approach, the b u tte r m ust be q u ite w arm (about 14 5°F /63°C ) b u t n o t to o h o t f o r th e sauce to come to g e th e r successfully. In general, th e ra tio o f egg to b u tte r is 1 egg yo lk to every 2 to 3 o z /5 7 to 8 5 g b u tte r. As th e volum e o f sauce increases, th e am ount o f b u tte r th a t can be e m u lsifie d w ith 1 egg yolk also increases. A hollandaise made w ith 20 yolks, fo r instance, can usually to le ra te m ore than 3 o z /8 5 g b u tte r per yolk. P asteurized egg yolks may be used f o r hollandaise, if de sired. However, the m ethod o u tlin e d here cooks th e yolks enough th a t salm onella bacteria, a m ajor concern w ith eggs, are rendered harm less. An acidic in g re d ie n t is included in hollandaise bo th f o r fla v o r and f o r the e ffe c t it has on th e p ro te in in th e egg yolks. The acidic in gre die nt, w hich can be e ith e r a vinegar red uc tio n a n d /o r lem on juice, also provides the w a te r necessary to fo rm an em ulsion. W hether to use a re d u ctio n or lem on ju ice is de te rm in e d by the desired fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d sauce. A re d u ctio n w ill im p a rt a m ore com plex fla vo r, p a rtic u la rly i f lem on ju ice is also used as a fin a l seasoning. One o f the keys to successfully making hollandaise sauce is having all o f the mise en place prepared. This fragile sauce, unlike many other sauces, is prepared in a single operation.
ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES
283
Q
basic formula
Hoilandaise Sauce
2 fl oz/60 mL water, to refresh
20 fl oz/600 mL
and cool the reduction
12 fl oz/360 mL melted whole butter or clarified butter
2 fl oz/60 mL reduction made
4 egg yolks or an equivalent
Lemon juice, as needed
from white wine, white wine or cider vinegar, minced shallots, and peppercorns
quantity of pasteurized egg yolks (3'A oz/99 g)
Salt, as needed Hot sauce or cayenne, as needed
method at-a-glance x. Make the reduction. 2. Add the egg yolks and
blend. 3. Place the bowl over
simmering water.
Melted whole b u tte r or clarified butter may be used in a hollandaise. Melted whole butter provides a richer, creamier texture, while clarified butter provides a stiffer, more stable sauce.
The acidic ingredient
can be varied when making the sauce, de
pending on the desired flavor, such as:
4. Whip. 5. Gradually add warm bu tte r
and whip.
V IN E G A R R E D U C TIO N / LEM O N JUICE
A number o f
similar warm butter emulsion sauces, as this group of
6. Strain.
sauces is sometimes known, can be prepared by varying the ingredients in the
7. Adjust seasoning and
reduction or by adding different finishing and garnishing ingredients:
serve, or hold.
LEM O N JUICE / C AYEN N E / M IN C E D H ERBS / FIN E LY D ICED TO M ATO OR C ITR U S S U P R E M E S / M EAT GLAZE (GLACE DE V IA N D E ), TO M ATO PUREE, ESSENCES, OR JUICES
Hoilandaise
can also be combined with whipped cream and/or veloute
to prepare a glai;age.
STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
hollandaise sauce
1. make the standard reduction fo r hollandaise. Reduce dry w h ite w ine o r cid e r vinegar, sha llo ts, and cracked p e pp ercorn s over m od era te d ire c t heat u n til nearly d ry (au sec) in a sm all, n o n re a ctive sauce pot. Cool and m o iste n the re d u ctio n w ith a sm all am ount o f w ater, the n s tra in it in to a m edium s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl.
m eth o d in d etail
2. add the egg yolks
to th e re d u ctio n and
w h isk over b a re ly sim m e rin g w a te r u n til th icke n e d and w arm (14 5°F /63°C ). Be sure th a t th e w a te r is b a rely sim m ering, w ith no v is ib le signs o f surface action, ju s t p le n ty o f steam ris in g fro m th e surface. As the yolks becom e warm , th e y w ill increase in volum e. If the yolks seem to be g e ttin g to o h o t and c o a g u la tin g s lig h tly around th e sides and b o tto m o f th e bowl, rem ove th e bow l fro m th e heat. S et th e bow l on a cool surface and w h isk u n til the m ix tu re has cooled ve ry s lig h tly . Place back on th e w a te r bath and continue cooking. R eturn to coo kin g over ba rely sim m e r ing w ater. W hen th e yolks have trip le d in volum e, fa ll in ribbons in to th e bowl, and th e w h isk leaves "tra ils " in them , rem ove the m fro m th e s im m e rin g w a te r. Do n o t ove rcoo k the yolks or th e y w ill lose th e ir a b ility to e m u ls ify th e sauce.
c h a p te r 13 » SA UCES
285
3. stabilize the bowl by s e ttin g it on a to w e l o r in a p o t th a t has been draped w ith a tow e l, to keep the bow l fro m slipping . Add th e b u tte r slo w ly in a th in stream , w h iskin g c o n s ta n tly as it is in co rp o ra te d . The sauce w ill begin to th icke n as m ore b u tte r is blended in. If the sauce becom es to o th ic k , add a b it o f w a te r o r lemon ju ice. This makes it po ssib le to fin is h adding the co rre c t am ount o f b u tte r w ith o u t b re aking th e sauce. If th e sauce becom es to o hot, th e egg yolks w ill begin to scram ble. To c o rre c t th is problem , rem ove th e sauce fro m th e heat and add a sm all am ount o f cool w ater. W hisk th e sauce u n til it is sm oo th and, if necessary, stra in it to rem ove any b its o f overcooked yolk. Add seasonings such as lem on ju ice, salt, pepper, and cayenne as desired, when the sauce is nearly finishe d. Lemon ju ice w ill lighte n the sauce's fla v o r and te x tu re , but do n o t le t it becom e a d o m in a n t ta s te . Add ju s t enough to li f t th e fla vo r. If th e sauce is to o th ick, add a little warm w a te r to regain th e desired lig h t te x tu re .
4. butter is the predominant fla v o r and arom a o f a good hollandaise sauce. The egg yolks con trib u te a g re a t deal o f fla v o r as w ell. The re d u ctio n in g re d ie n ts give the sauce a balanced ta s te , as do the lemon ju ice and any a d d itio n a l fin is h in g seasonings. H ollandaise should be a le m on -ye llow co lo r w ith a sa tin y sm oo th te x ture. (A gra in y te x tu re in d ica te s th a t th e egg yolks are overcooked o r scram bled.) The sauce should have a lu ste r and n o t appear oily. The co n siste n cy should be lig h t and pourable. Serve im m e d ia te ly or hold hollandaise a t or near 14 5°F /63°C fo r no m ore than 2 hours. M o st kitchens have one or tw o spo ts th a t are the p e rfe c t te m p e ra tu re fo r hold ing hollandaise, usually above the stove or ovens o r near (but not d ire c tly under) heat lamps. Holding hollandaise presents an unusual challenge, however. The sauce m ust be held below 15 0°F /66°C to keep the yolks fro m curdling, but a t th is te m p e ra tu re the sauce hovers ju s t above the danger zone fo r ba cteria l g row th. The acid fro m the reduction a n d /o r lemon ju ice help keep some bacteria a t bay, but the sauce should never be held longer than 2 hours.
286
S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
N A M E OF D E RIVA TIVE
FL A V O R A D D I T I O N S A N D T Y P I C A L L Y S ER V E D W IT H
FIN I S H IN G
BAVAROISE
C ra yfish b u tte r, w h ipp ed cream, and diced c ra y fis h ta il m ea t
Fish
BEARNAISE
Tarragon re d u ctio n . G arnish w ith fre s h ta rra g o n and ch e rvil
G rille d m eats
CHORON
Bearnaise and to m a to
G rille d m e a t and p o u ltry
FOYOT/VALOIS
Bearnaise and glace de viande
G rille d m ea ts and o ffa l
MALTAISE
B lood oranges
A sparagus
MOUSSELINE
W hipped heavy cream
B oile d fish , asparagus
PALOISE
M in t re d u ctio n and fre s h m in t
G rille d m eats
ROYAL
Equal p a rts ve lo u te , hoilandaise,
Poached w h ite m eats and
and w h ip p e d heavy cream
sha llo w -p oach ed fis h
hoilandaise sauce
Examples of Hoilandaise Derivative Sauces
FIXING AND FINISHING HOLLANDAISE SAUCE F IX IN G A H O L L A N D A IS E
liquid ingredients to the sauce gradually to
If the hoilandaise sauce does start to break,
avoid thinning it too much. If using clari
try adding a small amount of water and
fied butter to make the hoilandaise, save
whisking until the sauce is smooth before
the milk solids and use them to adjust the
adding more butter. If that doesn’t work,
consistency of the finished sauce and add
cook another egg yolk and 1 tsp/5 mL wa
flavor. Including flavoring ingredients may
ter over simmering water until thickened,
mean that other seasonings and flavorings
and then gradually whisk the broken hoi
need to be adjusted again.
landaise into the new egg yolk. Note, how
Some hollandaise-style sauces are
ever, that a sauce restored in this manner
finished with minced herbs. Herbs should
will not have the same volume as a sauce
be properly rinsed, dried, and cut into
that did not have to be rescued, and it will not hold as well.
uniform mince or chiffonade with a very sharp knife to retain color and flavor. Finely diced tomato or citrus supremes
F IN IS H IN G A H O L L A N D A IS E
may also be added to certain hollandaise-
Specific ingredients may be added to pro
style sauces; these garnishes should be
duce a derivative hoilandaise sauce after it
properly cut and allowed to drain so that
is made. Add glace de viande, tomato puree,
excess moisture does not thin the sauce.
essences or juices, or other semi-liquid or
ch a p te r 13 » S A U C ES
287
Tr
a d itio n a lly
p r o c e s s pr epa re
,
,
using
a
b eu r r e the
red uction
b la n c
reduction
is
pr epa red
cooking
sepa ra tely
and
as
liquid
m a k e
the
an
(c
integral u is s o n
b eu r r e
). A
part
of
n o ther
b la n c
the
c o m m o n
in a l a r g e r
U S ED A S A G R A ND S A U C E ON WHICH DE RIV ATIVE S A U C E S A R E BASED.
As
s h a l lo w
-po
aching
practice
batch
so
is
to
it c a n
be
WITH H O LLAN D AISE , B EU RR E
B L A N C D E R I V A T I V E S A R E P R E P A R E D B Y E I T H E R V A R Y I N G T H E I N G R E D I E N T S IN T H E R E D U C T I O N O R A L T E R I N G T H E G A R N I S H I N G R E D I E N T S . B E U R R E R O U G E , F O R I N S T A N C E , IS M A D E B Y U S I N G R E D W I N E IN THE REDUCTION.
beurre blanc The q u a lity o f th e b u tte r is c ritic a l to the success o f a beurre blanc. U nsalted b u tte r is best because th e s a lt level can b e tte r be co n tro lle d la te r on. Check th e b u tte r ca re fu lly fo r a cream y te x tu re and sw e et aroma. Cube the b u tte r and keep it cool. A standard red uctio n fo r a beurre blanc is made fro m d ry w h ite wine and shallots. (When prepared as p a rt o f a shallow -poached dish, the cooking liquid becom es the red uctio n used in the sauce; see page 540.) O ther in gre die nts o fte n used in the red uctio n include vinegar or citru s juice; chopped herbs including tarragon, basil, chives, or chervil; cracked peppercorns; and som etim es garlic, ginger, lemongrass, s a ffro n , and o th e r fla v o rin g ingredients. A sm all am ount o f reduced heavy cream is occasionally added to sta b ilize the emulsion. To use cream, reduce it by h a lf separately. C a refully sim m er the cream u n til it thicke ns and has a rich, ivo ry-ye llo w color. The m ore reduced th e cream, th e g re a te r its s ta b iliz in g e f fe c t. The m ore sta b le th e sauce, the longer it w ill la st during service. However, th e fla v o r o f cream w ill overpow er th e fre sh ta s te o f the bu tte r. Be sure th a t th e pan is o f a nonreactive m aterial. B i-m e ta l pans, such as copper or an odized alum inum lined w ith stain le ss steel, are e xce lle nt choices f o r th is sauce. A w hisk may be used to in co rp o ra te th e b u tte r in to the sauce, b u t many chefs p re fe r to allow th e m o tio n o f the pan sw irlin g over the burner o r f la tto p to in co rp o ra te the bu tte r. S train in g is o p tio n a l fo r th is sauce, b u t if you choose to s tra in e ith e r th e re d u ctio n or the fin is h e d sauce, you w ill need a sieve. Once prepared, th e sauce may be kep t w arm in the c on tain er used to prepare it, or it may be tra n s fe rre d to a clean bain -m a rie in sert, ceram ic vessel, or w ide-necked vacuum b o ttle .
288
S T OC K S , S A U C E S , A N D S O U P S
beurre blanc
Q basic formula Beurre Blanc
1 lb 8 oz/680 g bu tte r
Ground white pepper, as needed
6 to 8 f l oz/180 to 240 mL heavy cream (optional)
Lemon juice, as needed
(1 qt/9 6 0 mL) Reduction made from 8 fl oz/240 mL dry white wine, 3 to 6 f l oz/90 to 180 mL vinegar, 2 f l oz/60 mL minced shallot, and peppercorns
Salt, as needed
method at-a-glance expert tips
Make the reduction. 2. Whisk in the b u tte r and
cream, if using. 3. Season.
Strain. Adjust the seasoning and serve, or hold.
Additional ingredients
s
may be added to the reduction fo r
flavor: V IN E G A R / C ITR U S JUICE / RED W IN E / CHO PPED HERBS / CRACKED PEPPER CORNS / GA R LIC / G ING ER / LE M O N G R A SS / S A FFR O N
A small amount
of reduced heavy cream is occasionally added to
stabilize the sauce. If cream is used, reduce it by half separately. The more the cream is reduced, the greater its stabilizing effect.
Straining is optional
fo rth is sauce, as the reduction ingredients
can be le ft in the sauce fo r texture and garnish.
chapter 13 » S A U C E S
289
1. prepare the initial reduction o f wine, vinegar, sha llo ts, and peppercorns, which gives th e sauce much o f its fla vo r, in a m edium nonreactive sauce pot. O th er a ro m atics, such as bay leaves, may be added as re q u ire d by th e recipe. Com bine th e re d u ctio n in g re d ie n ts and reduce over fa irly brisk heat to a syrupy con sisten cy (au sec). If p re p a rin g the sauce as an in te g ra l p a rt o f a shallow -poached dish, sim p ly reduce th e cuisson (see page 543). Reduce th e heat to low. G radually in co rp o ra te the b u tte r w ith a w h isk (as shown here) or by keeping the pan in c o n s ta n t m otio n. The actio n is s im ila r to th a t used in fin is h in g a sauce w ith b u tte r (m o n te r au beurre). If the sauce looks oily ra th e r than creamy or if it ap pears to be separating, it has g o tte n to o hot. Im m ediately pull the pan o f f the heat and set it on a cool surface. C ontin ue to add the b u tte r a little a t a tim e, w hisking u n til the m ix tu re regains the pro pe r cream y appearance. Then continue to in corp orate the rem ainder o f the b u tte r over low heat. If th e b u tte r ta ke s a very long tim e to becom e in c o r po ra te d in to th e sauce, increase th e heat under th e pan ve ry s lig h tly .
m eth o d in d etail 2 .
make the necessary fin a l
a d ju stm e n ts to fla v o r and te x tu re by checking th e sea soning and strain in g, i f desired. A lte rn a tiv e ly , the red uc tio n in g re d ie n ts can be le ft in th e sauce f o r te x tu re and garnish. If you did n o t s tra in the re d u ctio n earlier, you now have th e o p tio n o f s tra in in g the sauce. If you do choose to strain , w o rk q u ickly to keep th e sauce warm . Serve im m e d ia te ly o r keep warm . To prepare a large batch o f beurre blanc and hold it th ro u g h a service period, use th e same holding techniques de scrib ed f o r hoilandaise (see page 286). The sauce may d e te rio ra te over tim e , however, and m ust be m o n ito re d fo r qu ality. The fla v o r o f beurre blanc is th a t o f w hole b u tte r w ith p iq u a n t accents fro m th e re d u ctio n . The fin is h in g a n d /o r ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts also in flue nce the flavo r. A good beurre blanc is cream y in color, although garnishes may change th e color. The sauce should have a d is tin c t sheen. The body should be light. If the sauce is to o thin , it p ro b ably does n o t contain enough b u tte r. Conversely, a beurre blanc th a t is to o th ic k includes to o much b u tte r or cream. The te x tu re should be fro th y , and th e sauce should not leave an o ily o r greasy fe e lin g in th e m outh.
290
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
M o s t sauces have m ore than one fu n c tio n in a dish. A sauce th a t adds a c o u n te rp o in t flavor, fo r exam ple, may also in tro d u ce te x tu ra l and visual appeal. Sauces gene rally serve one or m ore o f th e fo llo w in g purposes.
INTRODUCE COMPLEMENTARY OR COUNTERPOINT FLAVORS Sauces th a t are cla ssically paired w ith p a rtic u la r fo o d s illu s tra te th is fu n ctio n . Suprem e sauce is based on a re d u ctio n o f chicken ve lo u te w ith chicken s to c k and fin ish e d w ith cream. This ivo ry-co lo re d sauce has a deep chicken fla v o r and ve lv e ty te x tu re . When served w ith chicken, the color and fla v o r o f th e sauce com p le m e nt the de lica te m ea t and help in te n s ify its fla vo r. The cream in th e sauce rounds o u t th e fla vo rs.
purpose of sauces
purpose of sauces
C h arcu tiere sauce is made w ith m ustard and corn ich ons.T his sauce is pungent and f la vo rfu l. When served w ith pork, the sharpness o f th e sauce in tro d u ce s a c o u n te rp o in t f la vor, c u ttin g th e m e a t’s richness and p ro vid in g a c o n tra s t th a t is pleasing b u t n o t s ta rtlin g to th e palate. The sauce brings o u t the pork's fla v o r b u t m ig h t overw helm a m ore de lica te m eat like veal. A sauce th a t includes a fla v o r co m p le m e n ta ry to a fo o d enhances th e fla v o r o f th a t fo o d . Tarragon heightens th e m ild sw eetness o f p o u ltry. A pungent green peppercorn sauce hig h lig h ts th e rich fla v o r o f b e e f by deepening and enriching th e overall ta ste . G astriques can add depth and com plexity to a finished sauce. G astriques are typica lly made fro m equal parts sugar and acid and reduced by half over heat fo r use in sauces, soups, and stews. They can be added either at the beginning o f cooking or the end. If the gastrique is added at the beginning o f cooking, when m aking a reduction sauce, the appropriate sugar fo r the dish is added a fte r the arom atics are cooked, and may even be caramelized, if appropri ate, before the acid is added and reduced to sec. This is usually follow ed by the wine (if used), which is also fu lly reduced, then the stock or demi-glaze, and reduced to taste. If the gastrique is added a t the end o f cooking, as in a stew, it is made separately and added by the tablespoon until a balance is perceived on the palate. A classic example o f a gastrique is the caram elization o f sugar which is deglazed w ith orange juice and then reduced before adding duck demi-glaze in Canard a I’orange. Examples o f sugars used in gastriques are granulated sugar, raw sugar, honey, or red current jelly. Examples o f acids include vinegars, verjus, or acidic fr u it juice.
ADD MOISTURE OR SUCCULENCE A sauce can add m o istu re to n a tu ra lly lean fo o d s (e.g., p o u ltry or fish ) o r when the cooking tech niq ue used te n d s to have a d ryin g e ffe c t, such as g rillin g o r sauteing. G rilled fo o d s are fre q u e n tly served w ith a w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauce like bearnaise, or a com pound butter, salsa, or chutney. Beurre blanc is o fte n served w ith shallow -poached lean w h ite fis h to add a b it o f succulence to the dish.
ADD VISUAL INTEREST A sauce can enhance a dish's appearance by adding lu s te r and sheen. L ig h tly co a tin g a sau te e d m edallion o f lamb w ith a jus lie creates a glossy fin is h on the lamb, g ivin g th e e n tire p la te m ore eye appeal. Pooling a red pepper coulis beneath a g rille d s w o rd fish ste a k gives th e dish a degree o f visual e xcite m e n t by adding an e lem e nt o f color.
ADJUSTTEXTURE M any sauces include a garnish th a t adds te x tu re to the fin is h e d dish. A sauce fin ish e d w ith to m a to e s and m ushroom s enhances chicken chasseur, w h ile a sm oo th sauce adds a te x tu ra l c o n tra s t to p a n -frie d s o ft-s h e ll crab.
ch a p te r 13 » SAUCES
291
sauce pairing C ertain classic sauce co m b in a tio n s endure because the
duces flavo rfu l drippings (fond), such as roasting
co m p o sitio n is w e ll balanced in all areas: ta s te , te x tu re ,
or sauteing, with a sauce th a t makes use of those
and eye appeal. When choosing an a p p ro p ria te sauce, it
drippings. Similarly, beurre blanc is suitable for
should be:
foods th a t have been shallow-poached because the cooking liquid (cuisson) can become a part of the
» SUITABLE FOR THE STYLE OF SERVICE. In a ban quet setting or in any situation where large quanti ties of food must be served rapidly and at the peak
sauce. » APPROPRIATE FOR THE FLAVOR OF THE FOOD
of flavor, choose a sauce th a t may be prepared in
W ITH W HICH IT IS PAIRED. Dover sole is p erfectly
advance and held in large quantities at the cor
complem ented by a delicate cream sauce. The
rect tem perature w ithout affe ctin g quality. In an
same sauce would be overwhelmed by the flavor
a la carte kitchen, sauces prepared a la minute are
o f grilled tuna. Lamb has its own strong flavor th at
more appropriate.
can stand up to a sauce flavored with rosemary.
» MATCHED TO THE M AIN ING REDIENT’S COOKING TECHNIQUE. Pair a cooking technique th a t pro
The same sauce would com pletely overpower a delicate fish.
guidelines for plating sauces » M AINTAIN CORRECTTEMPERATURE. Check
There should be enough sauce fo r every bite of the
sauced, and of the plate. Be sure th a t hot sauces
sauced food but not so much th at the dish looks
are extrem ely hot, warm emulsion sauces are as
swamped. Too much sauce disturbs the balance be
warm as possible w ithout danger of breaking, and
tw een the item s on the plate and makes it d ifficu lt
cold sauces remain cold until they come in contact
fo r the w aiter to carry the food from the kitchen
with hot foods.
to the guest's table w ithout at least some of the
» C O N S ID E R T H E T E X T U R E O F T H E FOOD BEING SERVED. Pool the sauce beneath the food, spread ing it in a layer directly on the plate if the food has a crisp or otherwise interesting texture. Spoon or ladle the sauce evenly over the top of the food if it could b en efit from a little cover or if the sauce has visual appeal.
292
» SERVE AN APPROPRIATE PORTION OF SAUCE.
the tem perature of the sauce, of the food being
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
sauce running onto the rim, or worse, over the edge of the plate.
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 2 lb /9 0 7 g lean veal trim
Jus de Volaille Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock with Brown Chicken Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim w ith an equal amount o f chicken trim. Jus de Canard Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock w ith Brown Duck Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim with an equal amount o f duck trim .
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 2 o z/5 7 g tomato puree 5 q t/4 .8 0 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) 3 to 4 o z/8 5 to 113 g arrowroot or cornstarch, diluted with cold w ater or stock to make a slurry
Jus d'Agneau Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock with Brown Lamb Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim w ith an equal amount o f lamb trim.
sauce recipes
Jus de Veau Lie
Jus de G ibier Lie: Replace the Brown Veal Stock w ith Brown Game Stock (page 264) and replace the veal trim with an equal amount o f venison trim .
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a small rondeau over medium heat. Add the veal trim and mirepoix and saute, stirring from time to time, until the veal, onions, and carrots have taken on a rich brown color, 25 to 30 minutes.
Demi-Glace Makes 1 qt/960 mL 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
2.. Add the tomato puree and continue to cook over medium heat until it turns a rusty brown and has a sweet aroma.
3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer, skimming as necessary, until a good flavor develops, 2 to 3 hours. Add the sachet during the last hour of cooking time.
4 . Return the sauce base to a simmer. Stir the slurry to
1 . Combine the stock and espagnole sauce in a heavy medium sauce pot and simmer over low to medium heat until reduced by half, about 45 minutes. Skim the sauce frequently as it simmers.
2 . Strain the sauce. The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
recombine if necessary and gradually add it to the sauce base, adding just enough to achieve a good coating consistency (nappe). The amount of slurry needed depends on the batch itself and its intended use. For example, a very rich stock may have signifi cant body prior to thickening with the slurry and will require less.
5 . Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper. 6 . Strain the sauce. The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
chapter 13 » S A U C E S
293
Espagnoie Sauce
Chicken Veloute
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 mL
3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243), separate
8
6
o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263), hot 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g Brown Roux (see page 246) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Blond Roux (see page 246) 5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the butter or oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the mirepoix and cook, stirring from time
1 . Heat the oil in a rondeau over medium heat and sau
to time, until the onions are limp and have begun to
te the onions until translucent. Add the remaining
release their juices into the pan, about 15 minutes.
mirepoix ingredients and continue to brown, about
They may take on a light golden color but should not
10 minutes.
be allowed to brown.
2 . Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a rusty brown and has a sweet aroma, 1 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the stock to deglaze the pan and bring it to a simmer.
4 . Whisk the roux into the stock. Return to a simmer
2 . Add the roux to the mirepoix and cook until the roux is very hot, about 2 minutes.
3 . Warm the stock and add to the pan gradually, stir ring or whisking to work out any lumps. Bring to a full boil, then lower the heat to establish a simmer.
and add the sachet. Simmer for about 1 hour, skim
Add the sachet and continue to simmer, skimming
ming the surface as necessary.
as necessary, until a good flavor and consistency de
5 . Strain the sauce. Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper. The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
velop and the starchy feel and taste of the flour have cooked away, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. Strain a second time through a double thickness of rinsed cheesecloth, if desired, for the finest texture.
5 . Return the sauce to a simmer. Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper. Finish the sauce as desired. 6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use. Suprem e Sauce: Add 1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream and 2 lb/907 g sliced mushrooms. Simmer the sauce, stirrin g and skimming the surface frequently, until it coats the back o f a spoon. If desired, the sauce may be finished w ith 6 oz/170 g butter. Season w ith salt and pepper. Fish Veloute: Replace the Chicken Stock w ith Fish Fumet (page 26 4). Shrim p V eloute: Replace the Chicken Stock with Shellfish Stock (page 264), made w ith shrimp shells. V egetable V eloute: Replace the Chicken Stock with Vegetable Stock (page 265).
294
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
Tomato Sauce
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
2 flo z /6 0 m L o liv e o il
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onion
1 lb /4 5 4 g White Roux (see page 246)
2
5 q t/4 .8 0 L milk
5 q t/4 .8 0 L cored and chopped plum tomatoes with liquid
Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
tb s p /1 8 g minced or thinly sliced garlic
sauce recipes
Bechamel Sauce
3 o z/8 5 g basil chiffonade Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the butter or oil in a heavy bottomed, medium sauce pot and add the onions. Saute over low to me
1 . Heat the oil in a medium nonreactive rondeau or
dium heat, stirring frequently, until the onions are
wide shallow pot over medium-low heat. Add the
tender and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they
2 .. Add the roux to the onions and cook until the roux is very hot, about 2 minutes.
3 . Warm the milk and add it to the pan gradually, whisking or stirring to work out any lumps. Bring the sauce to a full boil, then reduce the heat and sim
take on a light golden color, 12 to 15 minutes.
2 . Add the garlic and continue to saute, stirring fre quently, until the garlic is soft and fragrant, about 1 minute.
3 . Add the tomatoes. Bring the sauce to a simmer and
mer on low heat until the sauce is smooth and thick
cook over low heat, stirring from time to time until a
ened, about 30 minutes. Stir frequently and skim as
good sauce-like consistency develops, about 45 min
necessary throughout the cooking time.
utes (exact cooking time depends on the quality of
4 . Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if using. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer or a double
the tomatoes and their natural moisture content).
4 . Add the basil and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes more.
thickness of rinsed cheesecloth using the wringing
Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper if
method (see page 329).
necessary.
5 . Return the sauce to a simmer on low heat. Taste and
5 . The sauce may be pureed through a food mill fitted
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Finish the
with a coarse disk, broken up with a whisk to make a
sauce as desired.
rough puree, or left chunky.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use. NOTE: If desired, substitute 9 lb/4.08 kg canned whole plum
Cheddar Cheese Sauce: Add 1 lb /4 5 4 g g ra te d sharp Cheddar. M ornay Sauce: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g each grated Gruyere and Parmesan. Finish w ith up to 8 oz/227 g whole butter, if
tom atoes fo r the fresh tomatoes. With canned tomatoes, it m aybe necessary to drain o ff some o f the liquid first. If desired, the canned whole tomatoes can be pureed in a food mill before preparing the sauce.
desired. Cream Sauce: Add 16 fl o z/4 80 mL heated heavy cream to the finished bechamel and simmer fo r 4 to 5 minutes.
chapter 13 » S A U C E S
295
Bolognese Meat S auce(Ragu Bolognese) Makes
1
6 . Stir in the cream just prior to service and return the sauce to a simmer. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
qt/ 9 6 0 mL
2 o z/5 7 g finely diced pancetta 1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil '/ 2
0 z /1 4 g butter
Tomato Coulis Makes
1
qt/ 9 6 0 mL
5 o z/1 4 2 g fine-dice onion 2 o z/5 7 g fine-dice carrot l
'/ 2
o z/4 3 g fine-dice celery
8
o z/2 2 7 g lean ground beef
8
o z/2 2 7 g lean ground pork
I V 2 o z/4 3 g tomato paste 8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 8
fI o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, heated
1 . Combine the pancetta with the oil and butter in a medium nonreactive stockpot. Cook over medium-
2
tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 2
tsp / 6 g minced garlic
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL tomato puree 6
fl o z/1 8 0 mL red wine
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 5 basil leaves 1
thyme sprig
1
bay leaf
Tomato water, as needed (optional) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
low heat, stirring frequently, until the pancetta is golden brown and the fat is rendered, about 15 minutes.
2 . Increase the heat to medium-high. Add the onions,
1 . Heat the oil in a small nonreactive sauce pot and saute the onions until they are translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently,
2 . Add the garlic and saute it briefly until aromatic.
until the vegetables are softened and the onions are
3 . Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns a rusty
translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the beef and pork. Cook, stirring continuously, until the meat is browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the fat if necessary.
4 . Stir in the tomato paste and cook until lightly cara
brown and has a sweet aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the red wine, tomatoes, stock, basil, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer until a good sauce-like consistency develops, about 45 minutes.
5 . Remove and discard the herbs. Pass the mixture
melized, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and reduce
through a food mill fitted with the coarse disk. Ad
the mixture until nearly dry.
just the consistency if necessary with tomato water,
5 . Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Add the
if using, or more stock.
stock, bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat to
6 . Taste and season with salt and pepper. The sauce is
low, and simmer uncovered until the mixture has
ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and
reduced and the flavors have concentrated. Add ad ditional stock if necessary to avoid scorching.
refrigerated for later use.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
vinegar; replace the chopped tarragon and chervil with 3 tb s p /9 g chopped fresh m int leaves.
B f I o z/9 0 mL tarragon vinegar 3 tarragon stems, chopped 1
M in t Sauce (P aloise Sauce): Replace the tarragon stems w ith m int stems; replace the tarragon vinegar with cider
tsp / 2 g cracked black peppercorns
Choron Sauce: S tir V/ 2 oz/43 g cooked tom ato puree into the finished sauce. Adjust the sauce’s consistency with w ater or lemon juice as needed.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry white wine
sauce recipes
Bearnaise Sauce
3 fl o z/9 0 mL water 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL egg yolks (about fresh or pasteurized
8
),
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL melted whole or clarified butter, warm 3 tb sp /9 g chopped fresh tarragon V / 2 tb sp /4 .5 0 g chopped fresh chervil Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the peppercorns, tarragon stems, and vinegar in a small nonreactive pan. Reduce over medium heat until nearly dry.
2 . Add the wine and water to the reduction and strain it into a medium stainless-steel bowl.
3 . Whisk the egg yolks together with the reduction and place them over simmering water. Cook, whisking constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form ribbons when they fall from the whisk.
4 . Gradually add the butter in a thin stream, whisking constantly, until all the butter is added and the sauce is thickened.
5 . Add the chopped tarragon and chervil and season with salt. The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be
Choron Sauce
held warm for up to 2 hours.
chapter 13 » SA UCES
297
Hollandaise Sauce
Beurre Blanc
Makes 28 fl 0Z/840 mL
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
2
tb sp /1 8 g chopped shallot
V A o z/3 5 g minced shallot
1
tsp / 2 g cracked black peppercorns
6
to
3 f I o z/9 0 mL cider or white wine vinegar
8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
3 f I o z/9 0 mL water
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL egg yolks (about 6 ), fresh or pasteurized
3 fl o z/9 0 mL cider or white wine vinegar
Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed
black peppercorns
8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, reduced by half (optional)
1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed butter, chilled
18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL melted whole or clarified butter, warm 1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
8
Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed 1 tb sp /9 g grated lemon zest (optional)
Hot sauce or cayenne, as needed (optional)
1 . Combine the shallots, peppercorns, wine, lemon 1 . Combine the shallots, peppercorns, and vinegar in a small nonreactive saucepan and reduce over me dium heat until nearly dry.
2 . Add the water to the reduction and strain it into a stainless-steel bowl.
3 . Whisk the egg yolks together with the reduction and
juice, and vinegar in a nonreactive saucepan. Reduce over medium-high heat until nearly dry.
2.. Add the reduced heavy cream, if using, and simmer over low heat for 2 to 3 minutes to reduce slightly.
3 . Add the butter a few pieces at a time, whisking con stantly to blend the butter into the reduction. The
place them over simmering water. Cook, whisking
heat should be quite low as you work. Continue add
constantly, until the eggs are thickened and form
ing the butter until the full amount has been
ribbons when they fall from the whisk.
incorporated.
4 . Gradually add the butter in a thin stream, whisking
4 . Taste and season with salt and pepper. Finish the
constantly, until all the butter is added and the sauce
sauce by adding the lemon zest, if using. The sauce
is thickened.
may be strained, if desired.
5 . Taste the sauce and add the lemon juice, salt, pep per, and hot sauce or cayenne, if desired. The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be held warm for up to 2 hours. M ousseline Sauce: Whip 5 f l oz/150 mL heavy cream to medium peaks and fo ld it into the batch o f hollandaise, or fo ld whipped cream into individual portions at the tim e o f service. M a lta ise Sauce: Add 2 fl oz/6 0 mL blood orange juice to the reduction, or finish the hollandaise w ith 2 ts p / 6 gg rated orjulienned blood orange zest and V / 2 f\ oz/45 mL blood orangejuice.
STOCKS. SA UCES . A N D SO UPS
5 . The sauce is ready to serve now. It may be held warm for up to 2 hours.
Pesto
Makes 1 qt/960 mL
Makes about 1 qt/960 mL
2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il
8
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted pine nuts
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, deribbed, and chopped red peppers
6
garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
1
tb s p /lO g s a lt
Salt, as needed
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil
Ground black pepper, as needed 8
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine 8
o z/2 2 7 g basil leaves
sauce recipes
Red Pepper Coulis
o z/2 2 7 g grated Parmesan
Salt, as needed
fl o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 to 3 fl o z/6 0 to 90 mL heavy cream (optional)
1 . Rinse the basil leaves well, dry thoroughly, and coarsely chop. Transfer them to a food processor or
1 . Heat the oil over medium heat in a small sauce pot
use a mortar and pestle. Grind the basil, pine nuts,
and sweat the shallots until they are tender, about 2
garlic, and salt together, adding the oil gradually to
minutes. Add the peppers and sweat until they are
form a thick paste.
very tender, about 12 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Deglaze the pan with the wine and let the wine re
2 . Stir in the cheese and add salt as needed. The sauce is ready to use now, or it may be refrigerated for later use.
duce until nearly cooked away.
3 . Add the stock and simmer until reduced by half. 4 . Puree the sauce using a food mill for a coarse con
NOTE: Blanching the basil in boiling salted water will help prevent the pesto from oxidizing during storage and make the color more pronounced.
sistency or, in a food processor or blender for a smoother consistency. Add the heavy cream, if using, to the pureed sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
5 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later use.
c h a p te r 13 » SA UCES
299
MaTtre d'Hotel B utter Makes 1 lb/454 g
Tarragon B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount o f minced tarragon. P im iento B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, room temperature 2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley V / 2 tb sp /22.50 mL lemon juice Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
o f minced pimiento. Green Onion B u tte r: Add 1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce, V2 ts p / 1.5 g minced garlic, and replace the parsley with an equal amount o f minced green onions. D ill B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount of minced dill. Sun-D ried Tom ato and Oregano B u tte r: Add 1 tbsp /3
1 . Work the butter by hand or with an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment until it is soft. Add the remaining ingredients and blend well. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
g minced oregano and 1 o z /2 8 g minced sun-dried tomatoes. Basil B u tte r: Replace the parsley w ith an equal amount of minced basil.
2 . The compound butter is ready to use, or it may be rolled into a log or piped into shapes and chilled for later use.
Rolling MaTtre d'Hotel B u tte r
300
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
Tarragon B utter
A well-prepared soup always makes a memorable impression. Soups offer a full array of flavoring ingredients and garnishing opportunities. Soups also allow the chef to use trimmings and leftovers creatively, an important profit-making consideration for any foodservice establishment.
S
to cks
A N D B R O T H S A R E S I M I L A R IN T E C H N I Q U E A N D C O O K I N G T I M E . M E A T , P O U L T R Y , F I S H , T R I M M I N G S ,
OR V E G E T A B L E S , W H I C H M A Y BE R O A S T E D OR S E A R E D , A R E S L O W L Y S I M M E R E D A L O N G WI TH A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S , S P IC E S , A N D H E R B S TO P R O D U C E A C L E A R A N D F L A V O R F U L L IQ UI D WI T H S O M E B O D Y . T h E M A J O R D I S T I N C T I O N B E T W E E N B R O T H S A N D S T O C K S IS T H A T B R O T H S C A N B E S E R V E D A S IS, W H E R E A S S T O C K S A R E U S E D IN T H E P R O D U C T I O N O F O T H E R D I S H E S .
broth M e a t and p o u ltry b ro th s have a m ore pronounced fla v o r than th e ir s to ck c o u n te rp a rts be cause th e y are based on m ea t ra th e r than bones. Fish and veg etab le b ro th s are made fro m the same basic in g re d ie n ts as fis h and veg etab le stocks, so th e d iffe re n c e betw een them is re a lly one o f inte nd ed end use and w o rd choice. If a broth's cooking te m p e ra tu re is ca re fu lly reg ulated so th a t it is never m ore than an even, ge n tle simm er, and if the surface is skim m ed as necessary, a b ro th can be as clear, fu ll bodied, and rich as any consom m e, w ith o u t c la rific a tio n . Choose m eat cuts fro m more exercised parts o f the animal because the more fu lly devel oped the muscle, the m ore pronounced the flavor. The same is tru e o f p o u ltry broths, fo r which stew ing hens or m ore m ature game birds are the best choice fo r deep flavor. Frequently, the m eat or p o u ltry used to prepare a b ro th can w ork fo r o th e r preparations if they are cooked only un til fu lly ten der b ut no longer. The m eat can be julienned or diced to use as a garnish. It is be st to use lean w h ite -fle s h e d fish , such as sole, flou nd er, halibut, or cod. Richer, o ilie r typ e s o f fish, such as b lu e fish or m ackerel, te n d to lose th e ir fla v o r when th e ir d e li cate oils are sub je cte d to high te m p e ra tu re s fo r even s h o rt periods. S h e llfish and c ru s ta ceans cooked in th e shell in a sm all am ount o f liquid produce exce lle nt bro th . It m ust then be stra in e d ve ry c a re fu lly to rem ove all tra ce s o f g r it or sand. For veg etab le bro th s, com bine w holesom e trim fro m several vegetables to make a bro th , o r fo llo w a sp e c ific recipe. C onsider th e stre n g th o f th e vegetable's fla v o r and how th a t m ig h t a ffe c t th e bro th 's balance. Cabbage and o th e r fa m ily m em bers such as cauli flo w e r can becom e overw h elm ingly strong. Many bro th s begin w ith th e sim p le s t o f all liquids: cool, fre s h w ater. Using a stock, re m ouillage, or b ro th as th e base liquid w ill produce w h a t is so m e tim es re fe rre d to as a "dou ble broth." S elect a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts to add flavo r, aroma, and co lo r to a bro th . A ro m a tic herb and veg etab le com b in ation s such as m ire poix, sachet d'epices, o r bouquet garni are tra d itio n a l. C o ntem p orary bro th s may call fo r such in g re d ie n ts as dried tom ato es, lem ongrass, w ild m ushroom s, or ging er to give th e b ro th a unique character. G arnishing b ro th s adds visual and te x tu ra l in te re s t. Sim ple garnishes, such as a fin e brunoise o f veg etab le s o r ch e rvil pluches, are tra d itio n a l. O th er choices include diced or ju lie nn ed m eats, pieces o f fis h o r she llfish , croutons, dum plings, quenelles, and w ontons, noodles, and rice. S e le ct a p o t large enough to accom m odate the b ro th as it cooks. There should be s u f fic ie n t room a t th e to p o f th e p o t to allow some expansion du rin g cooking, as w e ll as to make it easy to skim away any im p u ritie s fro m th e surface. The p o t should be ta ll and nar row ra th e r than s h o rt and wide. If available, se le ct a p o t w ith a s p ig o t to make it easier to decant th e bro th . You w ill also need skim m ers and ladles, storag e or holding containers, strain ers, ta s tin g spoons and cups, and a kitche n fo rk to rem ove any large pieces o f meat.
302
STOCKS, S A U C ES , AND SO U PS
broth
D basic formula Meat or Poultry Broth Using Water
Meat or Poultry Broth Using Stock
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L]
10 lb/4.54 kg meat or
3 lb/1.36 kg meat or poultry
shellfish, including bones or shells
5 qt/4.80 L stock
5 q t/4.80 L cool liquid
1 lb/454 g Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix (page 243; may include mushroom trimmings)
Fish or Shellfish Broth (1 gal/3.84 L) 10 to 12 lb/4.54 to 5.44 kg fish or
poultry, including bones 5 qt /4.80 L cool liquid 1 lb/454 g Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices and/or Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
method at-a-glance
expert tips
1. Combine the meat and liquid.
To intensify the flavor o f a broth,
9
the amount of meat or
vegetable may be increased. The meat may also be cooked in stock for a stron
2. Bring to a simmer.
ger, richer flavor. To further enhance the flavor and color of a broth, brown the
3. Add the m irepoix and/or
major flavoring ingredients (meat and/or vegetables) before adding the liquid.
bouquet garni.
Additional ingredients
4. Simmer and skim.
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
5. Strain.
process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later on so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture:
6. Coot and store, or finish and garnish fo r service.
SA C H ET D 'E P IC ES OR B O U Q U E T G A R N I / O IG N O N BRULE / FRESH OR D RIED HERBS / A R O M A T IC VEG ETA B LE S
Garnishing
abroth is yet another way to introduce and influence fla
vor. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are added at the very end of the cooking process: VEG ETAB LE S / MEAT, POULTRY, OR F IS H / FRESH HERBS / COOKED PASTA / COOKED G R A IN S SUCH AS RICE OR B A R LE Y
J
chapter 14 » S O U P S
303
1. combine major flavoring in g re d ie n ts, a p p ro p ria te seasonings, and cool liquid to cover th e in g re d ie n ts co m p le te ly. G en tly b rin g the liquid to a sim m er, skim m in g as necessary. G entle sim m e ring ex tra c ts m axim um fla v o r and e sta blishes a n a tural c la rific a tio n process th a t encourages im p u ritie s (fa t and scum) to c o lle c t on th e surface, w here th e y can be skim m ed away. The process o f blanching m ea t o r p o u ltry b e fo re m aking a b ro th w ill also help to rem ove im p u ritie s . Avoid a hard b o il when coo kin g b ro th s, w hich could cook th e fla v o r o u t o f th e in g re d ie n ts. V ig oro us b o ilin g a ctio n also causes f a t and im p u ritie s to be m ixed back in, th e re b y clo ud ing th e bro th .
2. add the remaining ingredients and a ro m a tics a t a p p ro p ria te in te rva ls. Sachet d'epices and b o uq ue t ga rni in g re d ie n ts release th e ir fla v o rs qu ickly and are added n e a rth e end o f c oo kin g tim e . R ather than in te n s ify in g th e fla vo r, con tinu ed cooking could a ctu a lly cook away th e de lica te, v o la tile oils th a t hold th e ir fla v o r essence. S im m er u n til flavo r, color, and body are fu lly de veloped. Since th e cooking tim e s fo r b ro th s va ry w idely, co n su lt s p e c ific recipes f o r guidance. Taste th e b ro th fro m tim e to tim e as i t sim m ers to be sure th a t it is de veloping p ro p e rly, and make c o rre ctio n s if necessary. For exam ple, if a clove in th e sachet d'epices th re a te n s to overw helm th e bro th , rem ove it. If th e re is a lack o f rich, ro a ste d fla v o rs , add an oignon brute (see page 24 0). Final seasoning and fla v o r a d ju stm e nts, however, are g e ne rally done a fte r th e m ajor fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts have given up th e ir m axim um fla vo r. M e a t and p o u ltry should be cooked u n til f o r k tender. Fish, sh e llfish , and crustaceans should be sim m ered b rie fly u n til ju s t cooked through. V egetables should be e x tre m e ly s o ft b u t n o t cooked in to shreds.
304
STOCKS, SAUCE'S, A N D SO U P S
broth
3. ladle, don t pour, th e b ro th o u t o f the pot. To keep th e soup clear, f ir s t li f t th e m eat or chicken and veg etab le s fro m th e b ro th b e fo re stra in in g . Line a sieve or colan der w ith rinsed doubled cheesecloth. A fin e -m e sh sieve or a pa pe r f ilt e r can also be used. S kim as much f a t fro m th e surface as po ssib le b e fo re g a rnishin g and serving or b e fo re ra p id ly co o lin g and sto rin g . B ring th e b ro th to service te m p e ra tu re and garnish as desired. If th e b ro th has been chilled, l i f t away any con gealed fa t and re tu rn th e b ro th to a simmer. Prepare and heat th e garnish.
4. a good broth is clear, golden in color, rich ta s tin g , and a ro m a tic, w ith good fla v o r and no tice a b le body. The se le ctio n o f fre sh , h ig h -q u a lity in g re d ie n ts, th e rig h t p ro p o rtio n o f fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts to liquid, c a re fu l te m p e ra tu re re g u la tio n , th o ro u g h skim m ing, adequate coo kin g tim e , and a d ju stm e n ts to th e b ro th 's seasoning th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e re s u lt in th e high est q u a lity b ro th possible. P rop er handling o f th e b ro th du rin g s to r age and re h e a tin g assures th a t it m aintains its q u a lity. B roth s ty p ic a lly have a fe w d ro p le ts o f fa t on th e surface, a sign o f a rich, fu ll-fla v o re d soup.
c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S
305
A
CONSOMME
IS A P E R F E C T L Y
CLEAR
BROTH. C O N S O M M E S
ARE
E X C E P T IO N A L L Y
RICH
IN
FLAVOR
A N D A R E C R Y S T A L C L E A R , A N E F F E C T A C H I E V E D B Y C O M B I N I N G A H I G H - Q U A L I T Y S T O C K OR B R O T H W IT H A C L A R IF IC A T IO N M IX T U R E .
To
ASSURE A H IG H -Q U A L IT Y CO NSO M M E, THE CHEF M UST CHOOSE
I N G R E D I E N T S C A R E F U L L Y , K E E P T H E C L A R I F I C A T I O N M I X T U R E V E R Y C O L D U N T I L I T IS T I M E TO C O O K T H E C O N S O M M E , A N D M O N IT O R T H E T E M P E R A T U R E O F T H E C O N S O M M E AS IT C O O K S AT A S L O W S I M M E R . O n c e t h e c o n s o m m e h a s d e v e l o p e d a r ic h f l a v o r a n d c o l o r , it m u s t be c a r e f u l l y s t r a in e d A N D D E G R E A S E D TO P R O D U C E A C R Y S T A L - C L E A R S O U P , W I T H N O T R A C E S O F FAT, A N D A N I N T E N S E A N D S A T IS FY IN G FLAVOR.
consomme S to ck fo r consom m e should be o f high q u a lity and very fre sh . To check fo r qu ality, bring a sm all am ount to a boil, then sm ell and ta s te it. If th e re is any d o u b t a b o u t the q u a lity o f the stock, use a fre s h e r batch o r prepare new stock. The c la rific a tio n is a com b in ation o f lean ground m eat, egg w h ites, m irepoix, herbs and spices, and to m a to or o th e r acidic ingre die nts. A ll o f the se in g re d ie n ts serve m u ltip le fu n c tio n s in pre p a rin g a w ell-balanced consomme. This m ixtu re o f in g re d ie n ts produces a crysta l-c le a r fla v o rfu l soup by rem oving im p u ritie s fro m the sto c k and b o ls te rin g its flavor. W henever possible, grind the m eat along w ith the m ire p o ix vegetables fo r the be st fla v o r and q u a lity in th e fin is h e d consom m e. W heth er o r n o t you grind th e m eat in-house, be sure to keep it and th e egg w h ite s re frig e ra te d so th a t the y rem ain w holesom e and fla v o rfu l. M ire p o ix veg etab le s should be cu t sm all or ground so th a t th e y becom e p a rt o f th e ra ft and release th e ir fla v o rs quickly. A v a rie ty o f a ro m atic vegetables such as onions, carro ts, celery, ga rlic, leeks, parsnips, and m ushroom s are typ ica l. M ix the c la rific a tio n in gre die nts (except th e acid) th o ro u g h ly and if tim e p e rm its, chill fo r several hours or overnight. The acidic in gre die nt, such as to m a to e s, is added ju s t b e fo re the s to ck is blended in to th e c la ri fic a tio n to help th e r a ft fo rm p ro pe rly, as w e ll as fo r its flavo r. Lemon ju ice o r vinegar is an acidic o p tio n fo r a fis h o r veg etab le consom m e. An oignon brule may also be included to give a d d itio n a l fla v o r and color. O th er fla v o rin g ite m s are used as necessary to achieve a special flavo r. Herbs and spices are also included in th e c la rific a tio n m ixtu re : sprigs o r stem s o f t a r ragon, parsley, chervil, dill, thym e, or o th e r fre sh herbs; cloves, bay leaves, peppercorns, ju n ip e r berries, o r s ta r anise; and ginger and lem ongrass. The eq uipm en t needs f o r m aking consom m es are the same as tho se described ea rlie r fo r broths, w ith the fo llo w in g special considerations: The p o t should have a heavy b o tto m to help pre ven t the c la rific a tio n in gre die nts fro m s tic k in g and scorching, and it should be ta lle r than it is wide. The even heat o f steam k e ttle s and fla tto p ranges, if available, are ideal f o r m aking consom me.
306
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
consom m e
B
basic formula
Consomme
10 oz/284 g chopped tomatoes
Note: For fish consomme, lemon juice, vinegar, a n d /o r
(1 g a l / 3 . 8 4 L) 2
tbsp/ 2 0 g salt
wine may be substituted fo r
CLARIFICATION INGREDIENTS
the tom atoes to prevent dark coloration. The amounts will vary depending on the acid level o f the individual ingredient.
1 lb/454 g Standard Mirepoix (page 243), minced or ground
qt/5.76 L cool liquid (stock or broth)
3 lb/1.36 kg lean ground meat, poultry, or fish
Seasonings and flavorings, such as salt and pepper, Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241), oignon brule
12
6
egg whites
(see page 240), or others as desired
method at-a-glance expert tips
1. Combine m ire po ix, meat, and egg w hites. Add acid
a
and s a lt to th e c la rific a tio n .
To enhance the flavor and color o f a consomme,
2. Sim m er the sto ck and
double the amount of ground meat in the recipe. This is known as a double
c la rific a tio n , s tirrin g
consomme.
fre q u e n tly .
Additional ingredients
3. S top s tirrin g a t 120° to 1 2 5 °F /4 9 ° to 52°C and
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time:
allow the r a ft to fo rm . SA CH ET D 'EP IC E S OR B O U Q U ET G A R N I / O IG N O N BRClLE / FRESH OR DRIED
4. Simmer, b astin g th e r a ft
H ERBS / A R O M A T IC VEGETAB LES
fre q u e n tly . Add o ptio na l a d d itio n a l ing re d ie nts, if
Use d iffe re n t acids
desired.
color:
5. S train.
in a consomme to produce a desired flavor or
TO M ATO / LEM O N JUICE / D R Y W IN E / V IN E G A R
6. Degrease.
Garnishing consomme
7. Cool and sto re , or fin is h
will introduce and influence flavor. Gar
nishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are added at
and garnish fo r service.
the very end of the cooking process: VEG ETAB LES / C USTARD / M E A T / P O U LTRY
W
c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S
307
1. clarification ingredients
should
be ve ry cold (below 40 °F /4 °C ) a t th e s ta r t o f cooking tim e . Som e che fs p re fe r to g rin d th e c la rific a tio n m ix tu re th e day b e fo re m aking th e consom m e to allow it p le n ty o f tim e to chill. Add the acid (such as to m a to e s or lem on ju ice ) ju s t b e fo re c o o k in g th e consom m e. Add enough cold sto c k to loosen th e c la rific a tio n . For large q u a n titie s, th e re s t o f th e s to c k can be b ro u g h t to a sim m er s e p a ra te ly to sh o rte n th e overall coo kin g tim e o f th e consom me.
method in detail 2. bring to a simmer,
s tirrin g fre q u e n tly ,
u n til th e r a ft begins to fo rm . Continue to s tir th e consom me so th a t th e c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts do n o t s tic k to the p o t o r scorch. As it heats up, the c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts begin to tu rn gray and coalesce in to a large s o ft mass, w hich is known as a ra ft. This occurs a t a te m p e ra tu re range o f a p p ro x im a te ly 14 0° to 1 4 5 °F /6 0 ° to 63°C. S top s tirrin g th e consom m e a t th is te m p e ra tu re and adjust th e heat u n til only a fe w sm all bubbles break the surface. If th e re is a s tro n g sim m e rin g o r b o ilin g a ction, th e r a ft m ig h t break a p a rt b e fo re it has s u ffic ie n tly cleared and fla v o re d th e consom m e. On the o th e r hand, if th e heat is to o low, im p u ritie s may n o t rise fro m th e b o tto m o f the p o t to th e to p , w here th e y can be tra p p e d by th e ra ft. Add an oignon brule if desired.
308
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
consom m e
3. simmer without stirring
once the
c la rifica tio n ingredients cook to g e th e r in to a ra ft. Basting assures th a t the fu lle s t fla v o r w ill develop and prevents the ra ft fro m drying out and p o te n tia lly breaking. As the con somme continues to simmer, the m eat and eggs w ill naturally coagulate, fo rm in g the ra ft. The sim m ering action o f the soup carries im p u ritie s fro m the b o tto m o f the p o t to the raft, where they are trapped. This action cla rifie s the soup. The sim m e rin g a ctio n may also cause a sm all hole to fo rm in th e ra ft. If a sm all opening does n o t fo rm on its own, use a spoon o r ladle to g e n tly poke th ro u g h th e ra ft so th a t you can ta s te th e consom m e as it develops and make any necessary seasoning a d ju stm e n ts. The hole should be ju s t large enough to accom m odate a sm all ladle. Sim m er g e n tly u n til the flavo r, color, and body are fu lly developed. Recipes usually provide a cooking guideline (generally 1 to V / 2 hours)— long enough to f o r t if y the soup's fla v o r and c la rify it properly. Baste the ra ft fre q u e n tly as the consomme sim mers. When the r a ft begins to sink s lig h t ly, assuming th a t th is happens a fte r a reasonable cooking tim e ra th e r than because the heat wasn't adjusted properly, the consomme is p ro p e rly sim m ered. Pour a sm all am ount in to a soup bowl or plate to assess its c la rity visually. S tra in th e consom m e using a fin e -m e sh sieve, a con i cal sieve lined w ith a c o ffe e filte r , o r c a re fu lly rinsed cheesecloth. Avoid b re aking up th e r a ft as you s tra in the consom m e and d o n 't pour th e consom m e and r a ft in to a strain er, because th is w ill release im p u ritie s . A d ju s t sea soning as necessary.
4. carefully degrease th e consom m e. B lo t th e consom m e w ith a b so rb e n t paper o r re frig e ra te it. Any fa t w ill congeal and be easy to l i f t away b e fo re re h e a t ing. It should be c o m p le te ly fa t fre e . The consom m e is now ready f o r g a rnishin g and service o r to be cooled and stored . A consom m e o f e x c e lle n t q u a lity has a w ell-balanced, rich fla v o r re fle c tin g th e m ajor in g re d ie n t, and a d isce rn ib le body. It is p e rfe c tly clear, c o m p le te ly f a t fre e , and aro m atic. The s e le c tio n o f fre sh , h ig h -q u a lity in gre die nts, very cold c la rific a tio n in g re d ie n ts, th e p ro p e r ra tio o f fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts and a ro m a tics to liquid, adequate cooking tim e , c a re fu l te m p e ra tu re re g u la tio n , c a re fu l skim m ing, and seasoning a d ju stm e n ts th ro u g h o u t co o k ing tim e re s u lt in th e high est q u a lity consom m e. C areful handling o f th e consom m e du rin g sto ra g e and re h e a tin g assures th a t it m aintains its q u a lity.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS
309
GARNISHING CONSOMME Hundreds of classically codified garnishes
it is important that it be as well prepared
for consommes exist, ranging from such
as the consomme.
humble items as neatly diced root veg-
Vegetable cuts should be neat and pre-
etables to the esoteric edible gold leaf
cise. Royales should be delicately set, soft,
featured in a recipe found in Escoffier’s Le
and supple in the mouth. The seasoning
Guide Culinaire. They draw on influences
selected for the garnish should enhance
as diverse as Asian cuisines, Caribbean
the flavor of the consomme, not distract
dishes, and Italian provincial cooking
from it.
styles. No matter what the garnish may be,
NAME
CLASSIC COMPOSITION
CONSOMME A LA
Consom m e garnished w ith sm all cubes o f c a rro t, tu rn ip , celery, leek, and ch e rvil
BRUNOISE CONSOMME CELESTINE
Consom m e lig h tly th icke n e d w ith ta p io c a and garnished w ith ju lie n n e d crepes m ixed w ith chopped t r u ffle s o r herbs
CONSOMME JULIENNE
Consom m e ga rnished w ith ju lie n n e d c a rro ts , leeks, tu rn ip s , celery, and cabbage, plus green peas and a c h iffo n a d e o f s o rre l and c h e rvil
CONSOMME
C onsom m e ga rnished w ith balls o f c a rro t and
PRINTANIER
tu rn ip s , peas, and ch e rvil
CONSOMME ROYALE
Chicken consom m e garnished w ith cubes, rounds, or lozenges o f Royale (custard )
CONSOMME AU CHASSEUR
Game consom m e garnished w ith ju lie n n e d m ushroom s and gam e qu en elles o r p ro fite ro le s s tu ffe d w ith gam e puree
310
CONSOMME DIPLOMATE
C hicken consom m e lig h tly th icke n e d w ith ta p io ca and garnished w ith ju lie n n e d tr u ffle s and ron de lle s o f chicken fo rc e m e a t blended w ith c ra y fis h b u tte r
CONSOMME GRIM ALDI
Consom m e c la rifie d w ith fre s h to m a to puree; garnished w ith diced Royale (cu sta rd ) and ju lie n n e d ce le ry
CONSOMME MIKADO
Chicken consom m e w ith to m a to , garnished w ith diced to m a to and chicken
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
t r rD
CD H
earty broths are based on c lea r broths or stock a n d h ave m o re fla v o r
,t
e x t u r e
,an
d body
|-^
T H A N C L E A R B R O T H S . V E G E T A B L E S A R E C U T I N T O U N I F O R M S I Z E A N D S I M M E R E D IN T H E S O U P U N T I L t e n d e r
. M
eats
THE CLARITY
of
,
g r a in s
,
and
pasta
are
fr e q u e n t ly
included
to
add
b o d y
. Th
ese
so u ps
lack
BROTH OR C O N S O M M E B E C A U S E OF TH E A D D IT IO N A L I NGR ED IEN TS C O O K E D DIRE CTL Y
IN T H E B R O T H . H E A R T Y B R O T H S M A Y A L S O B E M A D E F R O M A S I N G L E V E G E T A B L E ( e .G., O N I O N S O U p ).
o t r
hearty broths
in
H e a rty b ro th s include vegetables chosen bo th f o r th e ir own fla v o rs and f o r th e ir a ro m atic q u a litie s. Prepare each veg etab le by trim m in g , peeling, and c u ttin g it in to neat and evensize pieces so th a t th e y cook u n ifo rm ly and have an a ttra c tiv e appearance. Some h e a rty bro th s also include m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish . Trim and cu t m eat, p o u ltry, or fis h to s u it th e s ty le o f soup you are preparing. A fte r cooking in th e soup, the se in gre die nts are o fte n diced o r julie nn ed and re tu rn e d to the soup ju s t b e fo re it is finishe d. O th er in g re d ie n ts m ig h t include beans, w hole grains, o r pasta. For a re la tiv e ly clear soup, cook the se sta rch y in g re d ie n ts se p a ra te ly and add the m to th e soup as a garnish. A m ore ru s tic approach calls f o r these in g re d ie n ts to be cooked in th e b ro th as p a rt o f the soup-m aking process. Such soups ten d to have m ore body and are som e tim es re fe rre d to as h e a rty v eg etab le soups. Clear bro th s, g o o d -q u a lity stocks, w ater, veg etab le essences, o r ju ices are all used as th e liquid base f o r v eg etab le soups. Be sure to ta s te th e liquid and add seasonings as nec essary fro m th e s ta r t o f cooking tim e up to and includ in g ju s t b e fo re service. R efer to spe c ific recipes fo r in g re d ie n t suggestions. B ring the liquid to a sim m er over low heat while p re pa ring th e o th e r ingre die nts, along w ith seasonings and a ro m a tics as needed. This w ill im prove th e fla v o r o f the fin ish e d b ro th and help reduce overall coo kin g tim e , since the soup w ill come to the c o rre c t cooking speed m ore quickly. G arnishes are as varied as the soups them selves. C routons are common, and th e y may be an in te g ra l p a rt o f th e pre pa ration , as in Onion Soup G ratinee (page 335). Add o th e r garnishes, such as pesto, g ra te d cheese, or even beaten eggs, to veg etab le soups ju s t be fo re service. Purees o f red peppers, chiles, to m a to , o r so rre l m ay also be added a t th e last m om ent f o r a dash o f color and flavo r. F o rtifie d w ines (such as sherry), vinegar, or citru s ju ices may be used fo r la st-m in u te fla v o r a d ju stm e nts. M o s t veg etab le soups cook fro m s ta rt to fin is h in a single pot. The p o t should be ta lle r than it is w ide to allow th e soup to cook g e n tly and evenly at a co n sta n t sim m er. S kim m ers, ladles, and spoons are all used th ro u g h o u t the p re p a ra tio n tim e . T asting spoons and cups should be on hand so th a t you can m o n ito r th e soup's fla v o r developm ent. S torage o r hold ing c on tain ers w ill also be needed.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S
311
Q basic formula Hearty Broth
Onion Soup
Clear Vegetable Soup
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
(1 gal/3.84 L)
4 lb/1.81 kg of one or more main flavoring ingredients, such as vegetables, meat, poultry,
5 lb/ 2.27 kg onions
4 lb/1.81 kg vegetables
1 gal/3.84 L stock
1 gal/3.84 L vegetable stock or broth if for nonvegetarian soup
fish, legumes, or pasta 1 gal/3.84 L stock or broth Seasonings and flavorings, such as salt and pepper, 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241), oignon brule (see page 240), or others as desired
method at-a-glance 1. Sweat the aromatics and vegetables. Add additional main ingredients if using. 2. Add the liquid. 3. Bring to a boil and skim. 4. Add the bouquet garni or
sachet d’epices. 5. Simmer and skim.
6. Add the remaining ingredients at proper intervals. 7. Discard the bouquet garni
or sachet d’epices when the proper flavor is reached.
To intensify the flavor o f a broth, theamount of meat or vegetable may be increased. To further enhance the flavor and color of a broth, brown the major flavoring ingredients (meat and/or vegetables) before adding the liquid.
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add these ingredients at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Add others later on so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture. SA CH ET D 'EPICES OR B O U Q U E T G A R N I / O IG N O N BRClLE / FRESH OR D RIED H ERBS / A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES
To add body
to a hearty broth, any one of the following may be used,
depending on the desired results: M EATS / G R A IN S / PASTA / S TA R C H Y VEG ETA B LE S / LEG UM ES
8. Cool and store, or finish and garnish fo r service.
G a m i s h m g a hearty broth is yet another way to introduce and influ ence flavor. Add garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape at the very end of the cooking process or just before service: MEAT, POULTRY, OR FIS H / G R A IN S OR PASTA / VE G ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS, OR HERB PASTES SUCH AS PESTO / C RO UTO N S / CHEESE / P LA IN OR FLAVORED OILS / F O R T IFIE D W IN E S , OR OTHERS AS D E SIR ED
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
1. Cllt VGgetableS in u n ifo rm shapes and sizes. Cook th e a ro m a tic ve g e ta b le s in f a t to th e desired stage, adding th e m a t in te rv a ls to develop th e b e st flavo r, te x tu re , and color. Onions, ga rlic, leeks, celery, ca rro ts, and parsnips are basic a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts o f many veg etab le soups. S w e atin g th e m in a sm all am ount o f f a t begins th e process o f re lea sing th e ir fla v o rs in to the soup. C ooking v e g e ta b le s such as onions to a deep golden brow n w ill develop a ric h e r fla v o r in th e fin is h e d bro th . Some te n d e r veg etab le s, such as b ro c c o li flo re ts , asparagus tip s , and o th e r d e lic a te ty p e s are n o t allow ed to sweat. They are added a t sta g g e re d in te rva ls, acco rd ing to in d ivid u a l co o kin g tim e s. C onsult recipes fo r spe c ific in s tru c tio n s on co o kin g th e vegetables.
2. add the liquid and b rin g to a sim m er, s t ir ring, skim m ing, and a d ju s tin g seasoning th ro u g h o u t the coo kin g tim e . Add m ain fla v o rin g ingredients a t a p p ro p ri ate intervals. Depending upon the fla v o r o f the broth, ap p ro p ria te seasoning may also be added a t th is point. Bear in mind th a t the soup w ill sim m er fo r about 30 m inutes longer. A slow sim m e r is th e b e st coo kin g speed f o r m o st soups. The veg etab le s and m eats w ill release th e be st flavo r, and th e appearance o f veg etab le s w ill be m ore a ttra c tiv e when cooked a t a sim m er. A hard b o il te n d s to cook fo o d to shreds. C ontinue to add in g re d ie n ts a t th e a p p ro p ria te p o in t so th a t th e y cook p ro p e rly and develop a good flavo r. A d d itio n a l a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts, such as a sachet d’epices or bo uq ue t garni, are also added to w a rd th e end so th a t the y w ill cook ju s t long enough to release fla v o r in to th e soup. Skim th e surface as needed th ro u g h o u t p re p a ra tio n . The scum th a t develops on th e soup needs to be rem oved fo r the b e st fin is h e d q u a lity and appearance. Taste th e soup fre q u e n tly as it cooks and make a d ju stm e n ts as neces sary. Once th e soup has reached its peak fla vo r, it is ready fo r fin a l seasoning, garnishing, and service, or it may be cooled and sto re d .
ch a p te r 14 » SO UPS
313
3. the finished soup should have a rich color, fla vo r, and arom a. "C lear" veg e ta b le soups are not as cle ar as b ro th o r consom m e. U nlike stra in e d soups, the v eg etab le s are p a rt o f th e soup its e lf and give it te x tu re and body. W hen p ro p e rly cooked, veg etab le s should have appealing colors. M eats, p o u ltry , fish , and sta rch y in g re d i ents, such as p o ta to e s and beans, should hold th e ir shape b u t have a ve ry s o ft te x tu re . NOTE: Beans should be cooked s e p a ra te ly and added to the soup la te r a t a s p e c ifie d tim e. I f the beans are a d d ed a t the sam e tim e as o th e r veg etab le s, the beans w ill s t ill rem a in h a rd and u n de rcooke d by the tim e the o th e r ve g e ta b le s are tender.
ADDITIONS FORTHE BROTH MEATS, POULTRY, A N D FISH
GREEN VEG ETABLES
Cuts of meat that are more mature and less
Add peas, green beans, and leafy vegetables
tender should be added to the soup early in
such as spinach or kale during the final 15 to 20
the cooking process so that they will flavor
minutes of simmering time for the soup. Some
the broth properly and finish cooking at the
chefs prefer to blanch these vegetables to help
same time as the other ingredients. Add fish
set the colors before adding them to a soup.
or shellfish to hearty broths close to the end of cooking time to prevent overcooking.
In some cases, tomatoes may be added at the
G R A I N S A N D PASTA
beginning of the cooking time, along with the
Allow grains and pasta a little more time than
aromatic ingredients, to act as a broth flavor
would be necessary to cook in boiling salted water.
ing. A tomato garnish may be added during the final 5 to 10 minutes of simmering time.
LEGUMES
HERBS AND SPICES
Add lentils and black-eyed peas to the soup
Add dried herbs and most spices to the soup
along with the stock to cook fully. Other
along with the aromatics to flavor the broth
beans may need to be cooked separately.
throughout the cooking time. Fresh and dried
D E N S E OR S T A R C H Y V E G E T A B L E S
Roots and tubers cut to small dice typically require 30 to 45 minutes to cook fully.
314
TOMATOES
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
herbs and spices may also be added in the form of a sachet or bouquet during the final 15 to 20 minutes of simmering time, or before service for the freshest flavor.
ccording
to
c la s s ic a l
definitions
,
a
cr ea m
so u p
is
based
A
on
a
b e c h a m e l
sa u c e
(m
ilk
cream
A
T H I C K E N E D W I T H R O U x ) A N D IS F I N I S H E D W I T H H E A V Y C R E A M .
V E L O U T E S O U P IS B A S E D O N A L I G H T
V E L O U T E S A U C E ( S T O C K T H I C K E N E D W I T H R O U x ) A N D IS F I N I S H E D W I T H A L I A I S O N O F H E A V Y C R E A M
F R E Q U E N T L Y S U B S T I T U T E A V E L O U T E B A S E F O R T H E B E C H A M E L IN C R E A M S O U P S O R E V E N U S E T H E T E R M C R E A M TO R E F E R TO A P U R E E S O U P T H A T H A S S I M P L Y B E E N F I N I S H E D W I T H C R E A M .
soup
A N D E G G Y O L K S . C O N T E M P O R A R Y C H E F S NO L O N G E R D R A W A D I S T I N C T I O N B E T W E E N T H E TWO; T H E Y
cream soup The main fla v o rin g fo r som e cream soups is o fte n a single in gre die nt, such as broccoli, asparagus, chicken, o r fish . When sim m e ring p o u ltry o r fis h in th e soup to give fla v o r and body, be sure to trim , truss, or cu t tho se in g re d ie n ts as a p p ro p ria te . Vegetables, w h e th e r used as main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts or as arom atics, should be w e ll rinsed, then peeled, trim m e d , and cu t in to small, un ifo rm pieces so th e y cook evenly. Use a w ell-seasoned, fu ll-b o d ie d bro th , s to ck, o r lig h t veloute. M ilk o r a lig h t bechamel is som e tim es a p p ro p ria te . Bring the liquid up to a sim mer, along w ith seasonings, a ro m a t ics, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts m eant to pro vid e flavo r. R e fe r to s p e c ific recipes f o r guidance. T hickeners including prepared roux, flo u r o r p o ta to e s, o r th e natural th icke n in g o f the pureed main in g re d ie n t give cream soups th e ir te x tu re . However, added th icke n e rs are un necessary i f the base liquid is a prepared veloute. A ssem ble fin is h in g ingre die nts, fin a l fla v o rin g and seasonings, and garnishes ahead o f tim e to be ready to add a t the p ro p e r tim e. B ring cream to a sim m e r b e fo re adding it to sim m e ring soup. Blend liaisons and te m p e r the m ju s t b e fo re serving th e soup. Pots w ith heavy f la t b o tto m s, made o f no nre active m a te ria ls such as stain le ss s te e l or anodized alum inum , are a good choice fo r cream soups. S im m er cream soups on fla tto p s or a heat d iffu s e r to pre ven t h o t spo ts fro m de veloping and scorch in g th e soup. Have w o od en spoons, ladles, and skim m ers available th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process. Use blenders (c o u n te rto p or im m ersion) and fo o d m ills singly o r in com b in ation to puree th e soup. For a v e lv e ty te x tu re in the fin ish e d soup, you may also need fin e -m e sh stra in e rs o r cheesecloth to stra in the soup a fin a l tim e.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S
315
basic formula Cream Soup (1 gal/3.84 L) 1 lb/454 g White Mirepoix (page 243)
1 gal/3.84 L Chicken Veloute or other veloute
Finishing and garnishing ingredients as appropriate (Liaison [page
(page 2 9 4 ), thin nappe
249], diced or julienned main flavoring ingredient, or mince
Seasonings and flavorings (salt and pepper, or Standard
or chiffonade of herbs)
4 lb/1.81 kg of one or more main flavoring ingredients, such as
Sachet d'Epices, page 241)
vegetables, meat, poultry, or fish
16 fl oz/480 mL heavy cream
m eth o d at-a-glan ce
expert tips Q
1. Cook the m irepoix or other aromatics. 2. Add the main flavoring and
cook gently over low heat.
To thicken,
any one of the following may be used, depending on the de
sired results:
3. Add the veloute. Bring to
a boil.
BLOND R O U X / W H IT E R O U X / FLO U R / POTATOES
4 . Establish a simmer.
Additional ingred ients may be added to develop more flavor.
5. Add the bouquet garni or
Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking
sachet d'epices. 6. Simmer and skim. 7. Discard the bouquet garni
or sachet d’epices when the proper flavor is reached.
process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture. SA C H ET D 'E PIC E S / B O U Q U ET G A R NI
Garnishing
a cream soup is yet another way to introduce and influence
flavors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape
8. Puree the soup and strain if necessary. 9. Adjust consistency if
necessary. 10.
Simmer, adjust seasoning, and add cream.
11 . Cool and store, or finish
and garnish fo r service.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UPS
are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service. Any of the following may be used: LIA IS O N / H E A V Y CREAM / D ICED OR JULIEN NED M A IN FLAVORING IN G R ED IE N T / M IN C E OR C H IFFO N A D E OF HERBS
For a healthier option:
Use pureed vegetables (especially those
high in starch) to thicken the soup in place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.
cream
1. cook the aromatic vegetables to develop a good fla v o r base. W h ite m ire p o ix is a com mon a ro m a tic co m b in a tio n f o r cream soups. Here it is
soup
used f o r th e a ro m a tic base to pre serve th e soup’s lig h t green color.
2. add the main flavoring in gre die nt(s) in th e f ir s t stages o f cooking. Here, th e b ro c coli and a ro m a tics are sw eated u n til tra n s lu c e n t b e fo re adding the velou te . Cook g e n tly over low heat in o il or c la rifie d b u tte r u n til th e veg etab le s are te n d e r and tra n s lu cen t and begin to release th e ir ju ices. When using a p re made ve lo u te or becham el, use only enough f a t to sm o th e r th e a ro m a tics and keep th e m fro m burning. A lte rn a tiv e ly , include a p o ta to to th icke n th e soup. S lo w ly s tir in th e ve lo u te o r becham el. B rin g th e soup ju s t up to a sim m er, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly . Check th e soup’s seasoning and make any necessary a d ju stm e n ts. Add ce rta in in g re d ie n ts to th e soup a t in te rva ls, depending upon how dense th e y are and th e e ffe c t th a t exte nde d coo kin g m ig h t have on them . Tender new peas w ill becom e gray and p a sty i f allow ed to cook f o r to o long. A sachet d'epices le ft in th e soup to o long may lose its fre s h flavo r. C onsult in d ivid u a l recipe s f o r s p e c ific in s tru c tio n s on when to add in g re d ie n ts. S im m er u n til th e m ain in g re d ie n t is fu lly cooked and te n d e r and th e soup has a good fla vo r, s tirrin g , skim m ing, and a d ju s tin g th e seasoning th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . Cream soups usually need 3 0 to 45 m in utes o f s im m e r ing tim e to develop fla v o r and th icke n p ro p e rly. S tir f r e q u e n tly to p re ve n t scorching. S kim m ing th e soup rem oves excess f a t and im p u ritie s to cre a te good fla vo r, color, and te x tu re in th e fin is h e d soup. Pull th e p o t s lig h tly to the side o f th e burner; th e fa t and im p u ritie s w ill c o lle c t on one side o f th e pot, w here it is easy to skim the m away. Taste the soup o fte n as it develops and add a d d itio n a l seasonings and a ro m a tics as needed.
c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S
317
3. puree the soup (if necessary) and stra in it. The soup m u st be s tra in e d and any so lid s rem aining in th e s tra in e r should be discarded. A fte r th a t, the soup base should be added back to th e p o t and sim m ered a t 1 8 5 °F /8 5 °C u n til th e desired co n siste n cy is achieved. V egetable soups m ust be strain ed ; cream soups based upon m eat, fish , o r p o u ltry are n o t n e cessa rily pureed. Use a fo o d m ill, blender, im m e rsion blender, or fo o d p ro cessor to puree ve g e ta b le cream soups. Pureed cream soups need to be stra in e d using e ith e r a fin e -m e sh sieve o r rin sed doubled cheesecloth. If using a fin e -m e sh sieve, push th e solids against th e sides to e x tra c t th e puree. S tra in in g produces th e v e lv e t-s m o o th te x tu re o f a good cream soup by rem o ving all fib e rs . The soup should have th e de sire d fla v o r and consis te n cy a t th is p o in t. M ake any necessary a d ju stm e n ts to co n siste n cy now. The soup is ready to fin is h now, o r it may be ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d fo r la te r service (or to serve as a chille d soup).
4. simmer the soup, checking fo r flavo r, con sisten cy, and seasoning b e fo re adding the cream. For a h o t cream soup, re tu rn th e soup to a sim m er over m e dium heat and add enough h o t cream to enrich the soup, w ith o u t o ve rw h elm ing th e main in g re d ie n t's fla vo r. Return th e soup to a sim m e r and a d ju s t seasoning, if necessary.
318
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
cream
5. garnishes must be very hot when added to h o t soup. Reheat the m in fla v o rfu i liq u id to fu r th e r enhance th e soup's fla v o r. Cream soups can be
soup
fin is h e d and garnished by in d ivid u a l p o rtio n o r by batches, acco rding to th e kitche n's needs. Cook th e garnish fu lly and season it w ell. This m ust be done as a sep a ra te op e ra tio n since garnish in g re d ie n ts d o n 't a c tu a lly sim m e r in the soup as it cooks. Add th e heated and seasoned garnish to th e soup, if desired, and serve a t once in heated bow ls or cups. To fin is h a cold cream soup, add chille d cream to the soup. A d ju s t seasoning i f necessary (cold fo o d s o fte n need m ore seasoning tha n th e same dish served hot), and add th e chille d and seasoned garnish. If desired, serve a t once in chille d bow ls o r cups.
6. good cream soups
have a rich flavo r,
balancing th e main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t(s) and s u p p o rt ing a ro m a tic and fin is h in g fla v o rs , v e lv e ty te x tu re , and a lig h tly th icke n e d con sisten cy, s im ila r to heavy cream. Very th ic k cream soups o fte n have a p a sty fe e l and ta s te due to e ith e r to o much th ic k e n e r o r to overcooking. D is a p p o in tin g fla v o r and c o lo r in d ic a te th a t n o t enough o f th e m ain fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t(s) was used, in g re d ie n ts w ere overcooked, o r to o much liq u id was added. Too much cream can d e tra c t fro m th e m a jo r fla v o r o f th e soup, m asking th e p rim a ry ta s te .
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S
319
CHOWDER Chowders get their name from the French
loute. For this reason, more fat is necessary
made their stews. Classically, chowders
when cooking the aromatics; this is critical
were made from seafood and included
to successfully making any soup using the
pork, potatoes, and onions, though it is not
singer method.
uncommon for any thick, rich, and chunky
It is precisely because of this that the
soup to be called a chowder. There is also
singer method can be an unreliable way
a group of chowders, of which Manhattan-
to make chowder. The results vary widely
Style Clam Chowder (page 344) may be the
because the fat traditionally comes from
most widely known, that are prepared more
a rendered pork product and it is hard to
like a hearty broth. The main flavoring
predict how much fat will render out; it
ingredients for chowder are often shellfish,
is then difficult to determine how much
fish, or vegetables, such as corn. Vegetables,
additional fat is needed. The amount of fat
whether used as main flavoring ingredients
released can create an unreliable ratio of
or as aromatics, should be well rinsed, then
fat to flour, creating either too much roux
peeled, trimmed, and cut into small and
or not enough roux to thicken the quantity
uniform pieces so they cook evenly.
of chowder being made.
Use a well-seasoned, full-bodied broth
In addition, the vegetables release
or stock, or water. Bring the liquid up to a
moisture during the sweating period,
simmer, along with seasonings, aromatics,
which can interfere with the formation of
or other ingredients meant to provide fla
the roux. Using the proper amount of roux
vor. Refer to specific recipes for guidance.
made separately ensures the success of the
Thickeners, including flour and potatoes,
chowder’s thickness and consistency.
give chowders their texture. Assemble the finishing ingredients, fi
For more control over the finished product, a veloute-based soup should be
nal flavoring and seasonings, and garnishes
made. See the method in detail on page 317
ahead of time to be ready to add at the
for more detailed instructions. Because the
proper time. If adding cream, bring it to a
roux will be hot, make sure the liquid to be
simmer before adding it to the simmering
added is cool or at room temperature, oth
chowder.
erwise the roux will become lumpy. Add
Traditionally, chowder is made em
320
aromatics, rather than separately as for ve
word chaudiere, a kettle in which fisherman
the liquid slowly while stirring constantly
ploying the singer method, in which the
to further ensure that the finished liquid
flour for thickening is cooked with the
for the chowder will be smooth.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
u r ee so u ps a re slig h tly thicker th an crea m ften
based
entirely interest so u ps h e r b s
p u r e e d
.A
are
,
on
dried
,
th o u g h
lthough often
l e g u m e s
potatoes
o c ca sio n a lly
not n e c e s s a r y
g a rn ished
or v e g e t a b l e
,
w ith
,
,
so u ps an d h ave a s o m e w h a t co arser t e x t u r e
or s t a r ch y
so m e
finishing
cro uto n s
of
the
v e g e t a b l e s
,
so lids
le ft
are
ingredients m a y
or s m a l l
dice
of
pu r ee
include a
so u p s a re
w h o le
for
t e x t u r a l
milk or c r e a m
c o m p l e m e n t a r y
.
u s u a lly
m eat
.P ,
uree
fresh
.
puree soups
P O
puree soups M any puree soups are based on dried beans: G reat N o rth ern , navy, or black beans, le ntils, and s p lit peas, fo r example. Beans o th e r than le n tils and s p lit peas may be soaked f o r sev eral hours b e fo re cooking. The beans absorb some liquid, th e overall c oo kin g tim e is s h o rt ened, and th e beans cook m ore evenly and absorb less liquid du rin g th e cooking process. R e la tive ly sta rch y veg etab le s such as p o ta to e s, squash, o r ce le ry ro o t are o fte n the base f o r o th e r puree soups. These have to be peeled and diced o r sliced. Even though these in g re d ie n ts are pureed, re la tiv e u n ifo rm ity o f cu t size is necessary f o r th e in g re d ie n ts to cook evenly. A ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as onions, ga rlic, ca rro ts, and celery are o fte n fo u n d in puree soups. Vegetables may be ro a ste d or g rille d beforeh an d fo r e xtra flavo r. C onsult sp e cific recipes fo r p re p a ra tio n and c u ttin g in stru ctio n s. W ater, b ro th , and s to ck are th e m o st fre q u e n tly used base liquids. Check th e freshn ess o f b ro th s o r s to cks th a t have been sto re d b e fo re using the m in a soup. M any puree soups based on a legume call fo r a b it o f rendered s a lt pork, sm oked ham, bacon, o r o th e r cured po rk p ro d u cts. In som e instances, th e se in g re d ie n ts should be blanched f ir s t to rem ove any excess salt: cover the m w ith cool w ater, b rin g the w a te r to a sim m er, and then drain and rinse. C onsult s p e c ific recipes fo r m ore guidance. An a lte rn a tiv e is to use a ham -based bro th . Besides cured pork, in g re d ie n ts used to season puree soups are as diverse as chiles, d ried m ushroom s, h o t sauce, c itru s ze st or ju ice, and vinegar. G arnishes include chopped herbs, croutons, diced m eats, to a s te d o r frie d to rtilla s , salsas, and d o llo p s o f sour cream. E quipm ent re q u ire m e n ts f o r m aking puree soups are q u ite s im ila r to tho se f o r cream soups. Look f o r po ts w ith heavy b o tto m s, to avoid scorching and developing h o t spots. If available, a heat d iffu s e r o r o th e r s im ila r device should be used to keep th e heat even. Keep ta s tin g spoons and cups on hand so th a t you can check th e fla v o r o f th e soup th ro u g h o u t th e cooking tim e . Have wooden spoons, ladles, and skim m e rs available th ro u g h o u t the cooking process. Pureeing e q uipm en t such as a fo o d m ill or blender is necessary to fin ish th e soup. You w ill also need con tain ers f o r c oo lin g o r ho ld ing th e soup.
ch a p te r 14 » SO UPS
321
b asic fo rm u la Puree Soup
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg vegetables, such
(1 gal/3.84 L)
as potatoes and/or squash or
Note: This form ula varies based on the starch content o f the
VA to 2
main ingredient being used.
Flavorings such as salt pork,
lb /6 8 0 to 9 0 7 g dried
Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 )
Dried legumes have diffe re nt starch contents from starchy vegetables such as butternut squash or potatoes. The amount
Seasonings and other flavorings,
o f stock being used and the time allo tte d fo r proper cooking w ill
such as salt and pepper, tomatoes,
vary based on starch content.
legumes, such as lentils
smoked ham, or bacon 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices or 1 lb /4 5 4 g Standard or White Mirepoix (page 2 4 3 ) or other aromatic vegetables 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L stock or broth for
lemon juice, or vinegar
soups made with potatoes or starchy vegetables;
Finishing and garnishing
or 5 q t/4 .8 0 L stock or broth
ingredients such as croutons,
for soups made with legumes
fresh herbs, or diced ham
1
method at-a-glance ex p ert tips Q
1. Sweat the vegetables. 2. Add the liquid. 3. Establish a simmer.
Additional ingredients
4 . Add the main ingredient, if
the pureed soup. Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early
can be added to heighten the flavor of
in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they
not added in step 1.
retain their original flavor.
5. Add the sachet d’epices or
bouquet garni.
M IR E P O IX / SA CH ET D 'E P IC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / S M O K E D H A M OR SALT P O R K /T O M A T O E S
6. Discard the bouquet garni or sachet d’epices when the proper flavor is reached.
Garnishing a puree soup is yet another way to introduce and influence flavors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shapes
7.
Strain.
are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service.
8. Puree the solids. 9.
10.
C RO U TO N S / S M A L L -D IC E H A M / S M A L L D IC E OR W H O LE PIEC ES OF THE M A IN
Reincorporate the liquid to the proper consistency.
FLAVO RING IN G R E D IE N T / FRESH HERBS
For a healthier option:
Cool and store, or finish and garnish fo r service.
or sole garnish.
J
322
Reduce or remove additions that will add
excess fa t and calories, such as m eat products. Use vegetables as the primary
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
puree soups
1. render the salt pork,
if using, to be
gin th e process o f bu ild in g a fla v o r base. It also pro vid es th e fa t necessary to sw e at or brow n th e a ro m atics. If the recipe calls f o r m inced s a lt p o rk o r bacon, re n d e r it over low heat to release th e fa t. You can also use b u tte r or oil f o r a m ea tless soup. L ig h tly brow n th e a ro m a tic veg eta ble s. Cook ove r low to m edium heat, s tirrin g fro m tim e to tim e , u n til a rich arom a develops o r u n til th e y ta ke on a rich golden hue, anyw here fro m 20 to 30 m inutes.
2. add the remaining ingredients and th e liq u id a t th e a p p ro p ria te in te rva ls. Add dry, dense, tough, fib ro u s , o r s ta rc h y in g re d ie n ts (dry beans, ro o t vegetables, w in te r squash, f o r instance) a t th e beginning o f cooking tim e , usually as soon as th e s to ck o r b ro th has reached a sim m er. Since th e soup is pureed b e fo re service, it is less c ritic a l tha n in a h e a rty b ro th th a t these
m eth o d in d etail
in g re d ie n ts n o t overcook; th e re th e in g re d ie n ts are in te n d e d to re ta in th e ir shape du rin g coo kin g and service. S im m er u n til th e soup is w e ll fla v o re d and all th e in g re die n ts are ve ry ten der, 25 to 3 0 m in u te s f o r soups made w ith sta rch y v e g e ta b le s o r p o ta to e s or 45 m in utes to 1 hour f o r soup m ade w ith d rie d legumes. S tir th e soup fre q u e n tly as i t cooks to p re ve n t sta rch y in g re d ie n ts fro m s tic k in g to th e b o tto m o f th e po t. Add m ore s to c k o r o th e r liq u id as necessary du rin g th e co o k ing tim e . The sta rc h y o r d ry in g re d ie n ts used in many puree soups w ill absorb d iffe re n t am ounts o f liq u id as th e y cook, de pe nd ing upon th e ir m a tu rity . S kim th e soup as it cooks to rem ove any im p u ritie s o r scum, and ad ju st seasoning as necessary. Add a sach et d'epices or bouq ue t garni du rin g th e fin a l 3 0 m in utes o f c oo kin g tim e. Puree soups based on legum es m ay call f o r a ham hock o r s im ila r sm oked p o rk cut. Sm oked ham hocks are e x tre m e ly tou gh and re q u ire long, slow coo kin g in o rd e r f o r the m to be te n d e r enough to use in puree soups. T ypically, a ham hock b ro th is cooked f o r 3 to 5 hours in advance o f p re p a rin g th e puree soup. Once th e hocks are cooked, the re s u ltin g b ro th can be used as th e liquid base f o r th e soup. Remove th e p o rk fro m th e soup once it has added th e de sire d fla v o r. C ut th e lean m ea t in to ne at dice and reserve to add as a garnish.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS
323
3. strain out a small portion
o f the
coo kin g liquid and reserve f o r a d ju stin g th e fin a l con sis te n cy o f th e soup. Puree th e rem a ining solids and liquid and ad ju st seasoning and con sisten cy. D iffe re n t ty p e s o f pu ree ing e q u ip m e n t w ill produce d iffe re n t te x tu re s in th e fin is h e d soup. R ustic o r h o m e -style purees may be re la tiv e ly coarse and may even re ly sim p ly upon th e sta rch in th e main in g re d ie n t to give th e soup its th icke n e d te x tu re . A fo o d m ill f it te d w ith a coarse disk can also be used f o r a te x tu re d puree. B lenders and im m e rsion blenders produce ve ry sm oo th soups w ith a ve ry fin e consistency. As h o t puree soups s it, th e sta rc h y m ain in g re d ie n ts may con tinu e to absorb liq u id and th icke n th e soup. Check the co n siste n cy in te r m itte n tly and ad ju st as necessary. A t th is p o in t, th e soup is ready to be fin is h e d and garnished f o r service o r ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d .
4. puree soups are som ew hat th ic k e r and have a s lig h tly coa rser te x tu re tha n o th e r th ic k soups, b u t the y should s till be liquid enough to pour easily fro m a ladle in to a bowl, w ith a co n siste n cy s im ila r to heavy cream. A p ro p e r balance betw een solid in g re d ie n ts and liquid re su lts in a soup w ith a pleasing, ro b u s t flavo r. O ptionally, fo r e xtra richness, a b it o f s o fte n e d b u tte r can be sw irled on to p o f th e soup ju s t b e fo re it leaves th e kitche n f o r the d in in g ro o m .
324
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
in Tr a d it i o n a l l y , b is q u e s a r e b a s e d o n c r u s t a c e a n s s u c h a s s h r im p , l o b s t e r , or c r a y f is h , a n d t h ic k e n e d w it h
r ic e , r ic e f l o u r , or b r e a d .
T h e c r u s t a c e a n s h e l l s a r e u s u a l l y PULVERIZED
ALONG WITH THE OTHER INGREDIENTS BEFORE A F IN A L STRAININ G. T h e END RESULT IS A SOUP WITH A
1 -0 ^ fD
CONSISTENCY LIKE THAT OF A CREAM SOUP.
bisque C o ntem p orary bisques may be based on in g re d ie n ts o th e r than crustaceans and may rely on a veg etab le puree or roux as th e thickener. Added th icke n e rs are unnecessary i f using a prepared velou te . A veg etable-based bisque is pre pa red in the same m anner as a puree soup. If th e main v eg etab le does n o t contain enough starch to act as a thickener, rice, roux, o r a sta rch y veg etab le such as p o ta to may be used to provide a d d itio n a l thickness. When th e veg etab le s are tender, th e soup is pureed u n til sm ooth. C onsequently, the d is tin c tio n betw een a puree and a bisque is n o t always clear. C rustacean m eat and shells fo r bisque should be rinsed well, the n coarsely chopped. S h e llfish should be scrubbed clean. Check the q u a lity o f s to re d fu m e ts , stocks, or bro th s used to prepare a bisque b e fo re use. B ring a sm all am ount to a bo il and ta s te it fo r any sour o r o f f odors. Peel, trim , and chop any veg etab le s to be used in th e bisque. Chopped onion, m ire poix, o r g a rlic is ge ne rally a p a rt o f th e soup. O th er in g re d ie n ts fre q u e n tly used to add fla v o r and co lo r include to m a to paste, sw e et paprika, brandy, and wine. Cream and she rry are fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts f o r m o st bisques. Diced cooked pieces o f the main fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t com m only garnish a bisque. The eq uipm en t re q u ire m e n ts fo r m aking bisque are id e n tica l to th o se fo r m aking cream soup (see page 3 1 5) and include a heavy-gauge pot, pureeing e q uipm ent, and a s tra in e r or cheesecloth, as w e ll as eq uipm en t fo r holding, serving, and sto rin g .
c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS
325
D
basic formula
Bisque
Tomato paste or puree
Seasonings and flavorings, such as
A thickening agent such as Blond
salt and pepper, paprika, Standard Sachet d'Epices or Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241)
(1 gal/3.84 L) 2 lb/907 g of one or more main
Roux (see page 246), flour, or rice (whole grains or flou r), if
flavoring ingredients, such as crustacean shells (shrimp, crab, lobster, or a combination)
not using a prepared veloute 1 gal/3.84 L liquid (shellfish stock, fumet, broth, or shellfish veloute)
1 lb/454 g Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)
Finishing and garnishing ingredients, such as 16 fl oz/480 mL heavy cream, diced or other cuts of cooked shrimp, lobster, or crab; sherry
method at-a-glance expert tips Q
Sear the crustacean shells in a fat. Remove the shells from the pan.
To thicken,
Add the m irepoix and sweat.
any one of the following may be used depending on the de
sired results: V E LO U T E / BLOND R O U X / FLO U R / RICE OR R IC E FLOUR
Add the tom ato product and pingage.
Additional ingredients
Add the alcohol, if using, and reduce au sec.
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add the ingredient at the appropriate time. Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later so that they retain their
5. Incorporate the roux, if
individual flavor and/or texture.
using.
M IR E P O IX / SA C H E T D 'E P IC E S / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / TO M ATO PASTE
Add the liquid and sachet d'epices or bouquet garni. Add the shells back to the pan.
Garnishing
abisque is yet another way to introduce and influence fla
vors. Garnishing ingredients cut to the appropriate size and desired shape are added at the very end of the cooking process or just before service.
7. Simmer and skim.
H E A V Y CREA M / S H E R R Y / D ICED COOKED S H RIM P, LO BSTER, OR CRAB
Discard the bouquet garni or sachet d'epices when the proper fla vor is reached.
For a healthier option:
Use pureed vegetables (especially those
high in starch) to thicken the soup in place of roux, veloute, or flour. Replace cream with evaporated skim milk to reduce calories and fat.
9. Strain. 10. Puree the solids.
Reincorporate the liquid to the proper consistency. 12. Strain. 13. Cool and store, or finish
and garnish fo r service. j
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
c r I—* •
1. rinse the shells well
and chop la rge r
h Q
shells, such as crab o r lo b ste r. Drain and d ry th e m well.
£
T ra d itio n a l bisques g e t th e ir c o lo r and fla v o r fro m shrim p,
rt>
lobster, crab, o r c ra y fis h shells. Use one ty p e o f c ru s ta cean or a co m b in ation . Brow n th e shells in th e coo kin g fa t, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly , u n til th e y tu rn a b rig h t pink o r red and rem ove th e m fro m th e pan.
m eth o d in detail 2. add the mirepoix to th e pan and cook it over m edium he at f o r 2 0 to 30 m inutes, o r u n til th e veg etab le s are te n d e r and th e onions are lig h t brown. Tom ato pa ste is o fte n added a t th is p o in t and allow ed to cook u n til it has a sw e et arom a and a deep ru s t color. Add spices such as pa prika to th e shells and o th e r a ro m a tics to cook in th e fa t.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S
327
3. add a prepared roux
to the shells and
cook long enough to s o fte n th e roux. W hisk in the liquid to fo rm a velou te . A g o o d -q u a lity s to c k o r b ro th is as im p o rta n t to the fla v o r o f a bisque as the shells are. If available, a prepared lig h t v e lo u te made fro m a s h e llfis h o r fis h stock, th ic k ened w ith a blond roux, may be used. Bring the ve lo u te to a sim m e r w h ile coo kin g th e a ro m a tic veg etab le s to make coo kin g m ore e ffic ie n t. A m ore tra d itio n a l rice -th icke n e d sto c k may also be used as th e base f o r th e soup. In th a t case, th e re is no need to add e ith e r flo u r or a prepared roux. A t th is p o in t, add w ine and a d d itio n a l herbs or a ro m atics, such as a sachet d'epices o r b o uq ue t garni.
4. taste the soup and make m o d ific a tio n s to the seasoning o r c o n siste n cy du rin g cooking. Add m ore liquid, if necessary, to m aintain a good balance betw een th e liquid and solids as th e soup cooks. Skim the bisque th ro u g h o u t. S tir fre q u e n tly and m o n ito r th e heat. A bisque, like any o th e r soup w ith sta rch y in g re d ie n ts, can scorch q u ickly i f le ft un a tte n d e d f o r even a fe w m inutes. A bisque ta ke s 45 m in utes to 1 hour to cook p ro pe rly. A t th a t p o in t, all in g re d ie n ts (except, obviously, the shells) should be re la tiv e ly tender, so th e y w ill puree easily. Re move and discard th e sachet o r bouq ue t b e fo re pureeing the bisque. Use a blen der (im m e rsion o r c o u n te rto p ) to puree it to a fa irly sm oo th and even consistency. P ulveriz ing th e shells and pureeing the a ro m a tic veg etab le s helps to release m ore fla v o r in to th e soup. If tim e allow s, re tu rn th e pureed bisque to a sim m e r f o r several m in utes and make any a p p ro p ria te a d ju stm e n ts to th e soup's season ing o r c o n siste n cy b e fo re strain in g.
328
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D S O U P S
5. strain a shellfish bisque th ro u g h
h Q
rinsed doubled cheesecloth. C heesecloth rem oves all
^
tra ce s o f th e shell and gives th e bisque a ve ry fin e , d e li-
CD
cate te x tu re . This is a tw o -p e rs o n ta sk. F irst, se t a sieve o r colander in a clean po t. Drape th e rinsed cheesecloth in th e sieve and pour th e bisque th ro u g h it. M o s t o f the bisque w ill pass th ro u g h th e cheesecloth. Each person holds tw o corners o f th e che ese cloth and then lift s the corners up in an a lte rn a tin g sequence (known as th e m ilk ing m ethod). W hen only so lid s rem ain in th e cheesecloth, each person g a th e rs his o r her corners to g e th e r and tw is ts in o p p o s ite d ire c tio n s to fin is h s tra in in g th e bisque (known as th e w rin g in g m ethod). Be ve ry c a re fu l when using th e w rin g in g m etho d so as n o t to burn yo u rse lf. A fin e mesh sieve lined w ith che ese cloth can also be used to stra in th e soup. The bisque is ready to fin is h now, o r may be ra p id ly cooled and re frig e ra te d f o r la te r service.
6. finish the bisque and add any garnish in gre die nts. R eturn th e bisque to m edium heat and bring it to a sim m er. Taste th e soup and make any seasoning ad ju stm e n ts. If using, b rin g th e cream to a sim m e r sepa ra te ly and g ra d u a lly add it to th e bisque. There should be enough cream to enrich th e soup and add a sm oo th fla v o r and m o u th fe e l, b u t n o t so much th a t th e cream m asks the main in gre die nt. A good bisque re fle c ts th e fla v o r o f th e main in g re dien t. A ll bisques are s lig h tly coarse or grainy, w ith a con sisten cy s im ila r to heavy cream . A crustacean bisque ranges fro m pale pink o r red to ivo ry in co lo r and a veg eta b le bisque, a pa le r shade o f th e m ain vegetable.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S
329
general guidelines for soup COOKING Add v egetables at stag gere d in te rvals, according to cooking tim e s. S tir th e soup fro m tim e to tim e th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process, to pre ven t s ta rch y in g re d ie n ts fro m s tic k in g to th e b o t to m o f th e p o t and f o r th e be st fla vo r, te x tu re , and appearance. When th e fla v o r is fu lly devel oped and all o f th e in g re d ie n ts are tender, th e soup may be fin is h e d o r garnished and served rig h t away, o r cooled and re frig e ra te d . A ltho ug h some soups develop a m ore rounded, m ellow fla v o r if served the day a fte r th e y are prepared, no soup b e n e fits fro m hours on th e stove. N ot only w ill th e fla v o r becom e dull and fla t, b u t the n u tritiv e value w ill g re a tly dim inish as well.
ADJUSTING CONSISTENCY Thick soups, esp ecially tho se made w ith sta rch y veg etab le s o r d ried beans, may continue to th icke n durin g cooking, storage, and re h e a tin g or holding. As a rule, cream s and bisques are ab ou t as th ic k as cold heavy cream and liquid enough to pour fro m a ladle in to a bowl. Purees are som ew hat thicker. For a soup th a t is to o thin , a sm all am ount o f sta rch slu rry may be added. Have th e soup at a sim m e r o r slow bo il when th e slu rry is added, then s tir c o n s ta n tly and continue to sim m er fo r 2 or 3 m inutes.
ADJUSTING FLAVOR AND SEASONING Season soups th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process. M e a t o r p o u ltry glaze may be added to b o ls te r a w eak b ro th o r consom m e, b u t th is w ill a ffe c t th e cla rity. Chopped fre s h herbs, a fe w drops o f lemon ju ice, Tabasco sauce, W o rce ste rsh ire sauce, or g ra te d c itru s ze st may be added to b rig h te n a soup's flavo r.
DEGREASING Some soups, especially bro th -b a se d ones, may be prepared in advance, then cooled and re frig e ra te d . It is then easy to rem ove the fa t, which congeals on th e surface, b e fo re reh ea ting th e soup. If th e soup is to be served ju s t a fte r it is prepared, skim as much fa t as possible fro m th e surface. Clear soups may be b lo tte d w ith s trip s o f paper to w e l or unwaxed brown butcher paper to rem ove any tra ce s o f fa t b e fo re serving. F lo a t th e s trip s on th e surface, then care fu lly l i f t the m o ff. Consommes should be c o m p le te ly fa t fre e , b u t b ro th s and clear vegetable soups c h a ra c te ris tic a lly have some d ro p le ts o f f a t on th e surface. It is always b e st to s ta rt w ith th e sm a lle st am ount o f f a t possible to pre ve n t the need f o r excess degreasing.
FIN ISH IN G Some soups may be prepared to a sp e c ific p o in t and the n cooled and re frig e ra te d . Garnish clear soups ju s t b e fo re service to pre ven t the m fro m becom ing cloudy and to keep th e garnish fresh. Some garnishes are added, p o rtio n by p o rtio n , to heated cups o r bow ls ju s t p rio r to se r vice. In o th e r cases, such as fo r b u ffe t service, th e garnish m ay be added to th e e n tire q u a n tity o f soup. Finish cream and liaison soups ju s t p rio r to service. Do th is f o r tw o reasons: th e soup w ill have a fre s h e r flavo r, and its s h e lf life w ill be longer. B ring cream to a bo il b e fo re adding it to soup to check freshn ess and pre ven t it fro m low ering th e soup’s te m p e ra tu re . Temper a lia i son to pre ven t cu rd lin g (see pages 2 4 9 to 250). Make fin a l seasoning ad ju stm e nts a fte r the soup is finishe d. Alw ays check the seasoning im m e d ia te ly b e fo re service.
330
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
in
O
c T3
G ARNISHING Garnishes may provide c o n tra sts o f fla v o r and te x tu re o r th e y may in tro d u ce a com plem en ta ry fla vo r. They m ay also provide a d d itio n a l o r c o n tra s tin g color. In all cases, th e y should be th o u g h tfu lly s elected , w ell prepared, and w ell seasoned. Shape large garnishes, such as dum plings, w ontons, o r quenelles, to a size th a t does not
QPQ
£
O
.
allow the m to overw helm the soup cup o r p la te se le cte d f o r service. It is equally im p o rta n t th a t th e y n o t be to o d iffic u lt f o r th e gu est to eat. They should be s o ft enough to cut throu gh
J U I*
w ith th e edge o f a soup spoon.
£3
Since service te m p e ra tu re is e xtre m e ly im p o rta n t f o r all soups, rem em ber to bring the garnish to service te m p e ra tu re be fore adding it to the soup. There are several ways to do this: »
m
Heat the garnish in a steam er or in a small quantity of broth or consomme and hold it in a steam table.
» Cut delicate items into shapes th at will allow the heat of the soup to warm them thoroughly. If they are small and relatively thin, they will not cause the soup's tem perature to drop too severely. » Keep large items like dumplings, wontons, or quenelles warm and lightly moistened in a steam table or on the shelf over the range, covered to prevent dehydration of the product.
SERVING H ot soups should be served very hot. The th in n e r the soup, th e m ore im p o rta n t th is is. Since consom m es and bro th s lose th e ir heat rapidly, th e y should be nearly at a boil b e fore the y are ladled in to heated cups. The m ore surface area exposed to th e air, th e quicker the soup w ill cool. This is one reason th a t consom m es and o th e r b ro th -s ty le soups are tra d itio n a lly served in cups ra th e r than in the fla tte r, w id e r soup p lates o r bowls o fte n used fo r cream soups and pu rees. S erving th in soups in cups also makes it easier fo r servers to tra n s p o rt the soup w ith o u t spilling. Cold soups should be th o ro u g h ly chilled and served in chilled cups, bowls, or glasses. Take th e tim e to explain to anyone involved in serving soups th e im p ortan ce o f keeping ho t soups ve ry h o t and ta k in g the m q u ickly fro m th e kitche n to th e guest. Show all servers or line cooks th e w ay th a t a soup should look when it is served to th e guest, w ith garnishes and a d d itio n a l elem ents such as g ra te d cheese or fin e oils to pass o r serve a t tab leside.
REHEATING If a soup has been prepared in advance, reheat only th e am ount needed fo r a p a rtic u la r service period. M aintainin g fo o d a t high te m p e ra tu re s fo r extended periods o fte n has undesirable e f fe c ts on fla v o r and te xtu re . One good way to m aintain o p tim um q u a lity and m inim ize w aste is to reh ea t in dividu al p o rtio n s to order. Som etim es, however, th is approach is n o t practical. Learn the be st way to make use o f the eq uipm ent available fo r service to de term in e how to g e t fo o d s to service te m p e ra tu re . G e ttin g fo o d s throu gh the danger zone quickly is im p o rta n t. B ring clear soup ju s t up to a boil. Check seasoning and con sisten cy and add the a p p ro p ri ate garnishes b e fo re serving. Reheat th ic k soups g e n tly. Reheat th e soup over low heat at fir s t, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly u n til it so fte n s s lig h tly . Then increase th e heat s lig h tly and bring the soup to a simmer. If a soup has already been fin is h e d w ith cream , sour cream, o r esp ecially a li aison, do n o t le t it com e all th e w ay up to a bo il o r it may curdle. A te m p e ra tu re o f 18 0°F /82°C is adequate f o r bo th q u a lity and fo o d s a fe ty concerns. Check seasoning and con sisten cy and add any garnishes ju s t b e fo re serving. Check th e te m p e ra tu re re g ularly f o r soups held in a steam tab le. If the y co n siste n tly fa ll s h o rt o f a desirable te m p e ra tu re (at least 1 6 5°F /74°C fo r m o st soups and sauces), then ad ju st th e th e rm o s ta t on the steam tab le, have it repaired, or learn to com pensate by qu ickly bringing in dividu al servings to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re over d ire c t heat o r in a m icrowave.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S
331
m
O £
Beef Consomme
with paper towels, or lift the fat from the surface of
Makes l gal/3.84 L
the refrigerated consomme. / . Taste the consomme and adjust seasoning with salt.
CLARIFICATION 1 lb /4 5 4 g minced or ground Standard Mirepoix (page 2 4 3) 3 lb /1.36 kg lean ground beef 12 1
egg whites, beaten
o z/2 8 g salt
10 o z/2 8 4 g fresh or canned tomatoes, chopped 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241), plus 1 clove and 2 allspice berries (see Notes)
6
q t/5 .7 6 L White Beef Stock (page 263), cold
2 oignons brules (see page 240; optional)
1. Blend the mirepoix, ground beef, egg whites, salt, tomatoes, and the sachet ingredients. Allow to m ac erate for 1 to 2 hours if time permits.
2
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish as desired. I— NOTES: The aromatics can be added as a sachet (which will b e tte r control the flavo r o f the finished product), or as
rt>
loose ingredients.
^
If the firs t cla rificatio n was less than successful, c la rify a second tim e by combining 1 gal/3.84 L cold consomme w ith no more than 12 beaten egg whites,a small amount o f mirepoix, and 1 tb sp /1 5 mL chopped tomatoes. Bring the consomme slowly to a boil. As the egg whites coagulate, the im purities w ill be trapped. This emergency measure, however, tends to remove not only the im purities but some flavo r as well. Chicken Consomme Royale: S ubstitute an equal amount o f W hite Mirepoix (page 243) fo r the standard mirepoix, ground chicken fo r the ground beef, and Chicken Stock (page 263) fo r the w hite beef stock. Simmer at approxim ately 180°F/82°C fo r 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. Garnish the consomme w ith Royale Custard (recipe follows).
Heat the stock to approximately ioo°F/38°C in a stockpot sized to accommodate all the ingredients. Add the clarification mixture to the stock. Stir to combine thoroughly.
3. Bring the mixture to 145°F/63°C, stirring frequently until the raft just begins to form, 8 to 10 minutes. Look for the proteins to start to float and form small quarter-size clumps with lighter, unclarified broth between them. Once raft forms, firmly create a small
Royale Custard Makes ninety i-in/3-cm rounds 3 egg yolks l e gg fl oz /1 8 0 mL Chicken or White Beef Stock (page 263)
6
hole in part of the raft. If using, add the oignons brules to the stock near the hole.
4. Simmer slowly at approximately i8o°F/82°C until the appropriate flavor and clarity is achieved (see page 3 0 9 ), 1 to 1V2 hours. Baste the raft occasionally
V* tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed
1. Mix all the ingredients together and pour the cus
through the opening. Always taste to make sure the
tard into a buttered half hotel pan. The custard
consomme has developed full flavor before straining.
should be no more than Ys in/9 mm thick.
5. Strain the consomme through a damp paper filter
2 . Set the pan in a hot water bath and bake it in a
or rinsed doubled cheesecloth: Use a ladle to push
3 00°F /i49°C oven until just firm throughout, about
down on the raft carefully at the hole and allow the
30 minutes.
broth to flow into the ladle before pouring through the filter. Repeat until the raft hits the bottom of the
3. Using a i-in/3-cm round cutter, cut the custard into circles. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
pot. Carefully tilt the broth into the ladle and do not break the raft. Adjust seasoning with salt as needed. The consomme is now ready to finish, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. De grease the hot consomme by skimming or blotting
NOTES: To ensure that the custard has a uniform thickness, select a hotel pan that has a com pletely fla t bottom and be sure th a t the rack inside the oven is level. The royale may be cut into various shapes, such as diamonds or squares. The yield w ill vary depending on the shape and size o f the c utters used.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS
333
Chicken Broth Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 1 stewing hen ( 8 lb /3.63 kg), or two 4-lb /1 .8 1-k g hens 5 q t/4 .8 0 L water 1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
B ee f B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount o f beef shank, chuck, bottom round, oxtail, or short ribs. Veal B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount o f veal shank or shin, chuck, bottom round, or calf's head. Ham or Sm oked Pork B roth : Replace the stewing hen with an equal amount o f ham hocks (fresh or smoked), meaty ham bones, or Boston butt.
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Cut the hen in half and place in an appropriate size stockpot. Add enough cold water to just cover the chicken. Bring the liquid to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to sim mer 3 to 5 hours until the hen is very tender and a deep flavor has been achieved. Skim the surface as necessary.
2 . Add the mirepoix and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the sachet to the broth and continue to simmer until the broth has a rich flavor and good body, another 30 to 40 minutes.
3 . Remove the hen from the broth when it is fully cooked and tender. Discard the bones, skin, and tendons. Reserve the meat to use as a garnish for the broth or for other applications, if desired.
4 . Taste the broth and season with salt and pepper. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve or cheese cloth and degrease, if necessary. It is ready to garnish and serve in heated bowls or cups (see Notes), use as an ingredient in another dish, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use. NOTES: As shown on page 314, chicken broth can be garnished w ith 10 o z/2 84 g of the reserved chicken meat, diced; 10 oz/2 84 gH erbed Pasta (page819), cut into l-in /3 -c m squares and cooked; and 6 oz/170 g each of paysanne-cut carrot and celery, cooked until tender. Other options fo r garnishing chicken broth include julienned meat, diced or fin e ly julienned vegetables, barley, or Spatzle (page 834).
Am ish Corn and Chicken Soup: S ubstitute Chicken Stock (page 263) fo r water when making the broth. Add !4 ts p /0 .2 0 g crushed saffron threads w ith the sachet. Dice or shred the reserved chicken meat and add it to the broth along w ith 6 oz/170 g cooked fresh or frozen corn kernels, 6 oz/170 g cooked egg noodles, and 2 oz/57 g chopped parsley.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
Lamb B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount o f lamb shank, leg, shoulder, or neck. Turkey o r Game B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount o f necks, backs, or legs o f turkey, guinea hen, duck, pheasant, goose, or other poultry or game birds. Fish B roth: Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount o f lean white fish, such as cod, halibut, hake, flounder, or pike. Use White Mirepoix (page 243) to keep a light color. S h e llfish B roth : Replace the stewing hen w ith an equal amount o f shrimp, lobster, crayfish, and/or crab.
C/3 o
Onion Soup
Tortilla Soup
c
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
|_^ ro ^
5 lb /2.27 kg thinly sliced onions
12
2 o z/5 7 g clarified or whole butter
1 white onion (about 10 o z/2 8 4 g), halved and peeled
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Calvados or sherry (see Note)
4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
^
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken or White Beef Stock (page 263), warm
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL canola oil
^
plum tomatoes (about
1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g), cored |
*
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Broth (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) 12
epazote sprigs, tied with a string
Salt, as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . In a large sauce pot or rondeau, caramelize the on
4 pasilla chiles 2 4 corn tortillas, cut into julienne avocados, cut into medium dice
ions in the butter over medium-high heat, stirring
2
occasionally, until browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Do not
2 cups/480 mL crumbled queso fresco
add any salt at this time, to prevent the extraction of moisture and allow for optimum caramelization.
2 . Deglaze the pan with the Calvados and reduce over
1 . Dry roast the tomatoes, onion, and garlic on a comal or in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until the
medium-high to high heat until it reaches a syrupy
tomatoes begin to soften and their edges char. Once
consistency.
the garlic skin begins to brown, remove it from the
3 . Add the stock and the sachet and simmer until the onions are tender and the soup is properly flavored, 30 to 35 minutes. The soup is ready to finish now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Sea son with salt and pepper and serve in heated bowls or cups.
heat and peel.
2 . Puree the roasted tomatoes, onion, and garlic in a blender until smooth.
3 . Heat 4 fl oz/120 mL oil in a stockpot over mediumhigh heat and fry the pureed mixture, stirring fre quently, until it deepens in color, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth and epazote. Season with salt and bring the soup to a simmer. Simmer for 45 minutes.
NOTE: If sherry is used, add it to the soup at the end of cooking time. Adding sherry at step 2 can cause the wine
4 . Meanwhile, slice the pasilla chiles crossways into
flavor to dissipate. Sweet wines like sherry are best
%-in/i-cm rings. Shake the rings to remove the seeds.
added when soup is finished.
Discard the stems and seeds.
5 . Heat the remaining 6 fl oz/i8o mL oil in a medium W h ite Onion Soup: Gently cook the onions in bu tte r over low heat until they are limp but not colored. If desired, add up to 6 oz/170 g flo u r as a thickener. The onions may also be pureed and added back to the soup. Onion Soup G ratinee: Portion the soup into flam eproof bowls or crocks. Garnish each portion o f the soup with a th in ly sliced, oval crouton (see page 889). Top each crouton generously w ith grated Gruyere (2 tb sp /3 0 mL per serving) and brown under a salamander or broiler until lightly b row ned, 3 to 5 minutes.
sauteuse over medium-high heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the chile slices and immediately turn off the heat; transfer the slices at once with a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate. This step needs to be done very fast to prevent the chiles from burning. 6 . Return the heat to medium. Working in small batches, fry the tortilla strips in the chile-infused oil until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.
7 . Remove the epazote sprigs from the soup prior to serving. Serve the soup in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with a generous portion of fried tortillas, pasilla chiles, avocado, and queso fresco.
ch a p te r 14 » SO UPS
335
Chicken Rice Soup
7 . Heat the palm oil and garlic in a soup pot over medi um heat just until fragrant. Do not allow the garlic to brown. Add salt, pepper, the strained stock, and the
( C a n jo )
rice and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and
Makes l gal/3.84 L
simmer until the rice is just al dente but still slightly 1 stewing hen (about 3 lb /1.36 kg), cut into
6
pieces
2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil 8
o z/2 2 7 g rough-cut Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped ginger 2
bay leaves
1
or
1
rosemary sprig
2
malagueta chiles or jalapenos, chopped
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1 g al/3.84 L Chicken Stock (page 263) ltb s p /1 5 m L palm oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 o z/8 5 g long-grain white rice, rinsed and drained 1 lb /4 5 4 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen I V 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro, roughly chopped
1 . Blot the chicken pieces dry with a paper towel. Heat the olive oil in a medium soup pot over medium heat. Add the chicken pieces, skin side down, and brown until golden on all sides, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pot.
2 . Add the mirepoix, ginger, bay leaves, and chiles. Saute over medium^high heat, stirring frequently, until lightly colored and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
3 . Return the chicken to the pot and add the rosemary, salt, pepper, and stock. Bring the soup to a simmer at i85°F/85°C, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender, 40 to 45 minutes.
4 . Remove the soup from the heat. Remove the chicken pieces and reserve until cool enough to handle. Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve and dis card the solids.
5 . Let the strained stock sit for a few minutes to allow the fat to rise to the surface. Degrease the stock and discard the fat. 6 . Remove and discard the skin and bones from the chicken. Cut the meat into medium dice. Reserve it to garnish the soup later.
STOCKS, SA U C E S , A N D SO UP S
undercooked, about 15 minutes. 8 . Add the chicken meat and corn and simmer until the corn is tender and the chicken is heated through, 5 minutes more.
9 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish the soup with the cilantro and serve in heated bowls or cups, or rapidly cool and refrigerate for later use.
CO
o
Cream o f Tomato Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 8
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice bacon (optional; see Notes)
Cream of Broccoli Soup * c0 Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
i-i rt>
4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli
n
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice White Mirepoix (page 243)
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
2 lb /9 0 7 g chopped plum tomatoes, fresh when in season or canned
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot 2
24 f 1o z/7 2 0 mL tomato puree 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241), plus 2 cloves
tbsp / 2
0
|
'
^
g salt, or as needed
V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot 4 ts p /1 2 g salt, or as needed V A ts p /2 .5 g ground white pepper, or as needed GARNISH 8
o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Remove the florets from the broccoli and reserve about 1 lb/454 g f°r garnish. Peel and dice the stems.
2.. Heat the butter or oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat and add the mirepoix. Sweat until the onions are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the unreserved broc coli and sweat until the stems are slightly tender, 10 to
1 . Render the bacon, if using, in a large sauce pot over medium heat, about 10 minutes. Add the mirepoix and garlic. Sweat the vegetables over medium-high heat until tender, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Whisk in the roux; blend well. Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, and sachet. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the tomatoes are cooked through, about 25 minutes.
3 . Remove and discard the sachet. Puree the soup until it is smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return it to a simmer slowly over medium-low heat and sim mer for 8 to 10 minutes to adjust the consistency.
4 . The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85°F/85°C for ser vice. Add the cream and season with salt and pepper.
15 minutes.
3 . Add the veloute and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Add the sachet. Reduce the heat and simmer until the vegetables are fully cooked, about 35 minutes. Stir frequently and skim as needed.
4 . Cut the reserved florets into bite-size pieces, keeping their shape, and blanch in boiling salted water until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Shock the florets in an ice bath and reserve for service.
5 . Discard the sachet. Puree the soup until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and discard any fibers remaining in the strainer. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger ated for later service. 6 . Return the soup to a simmer at i 85°F/85°C. Add the cream and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Heat
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv
the broccoli florets in simmering stock or water and
ing with croutons.
garnish individual portions or the entire batch. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
NOTES: If not using bacon, sweat the mirepoix and garlic in 3 f l o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil. If using a blender to puree the soup, the finished color w ill be s lightly more orange than a soup pureed using another method. Cream o f Tom ato Soup w ith Rice: Add 1 lb /4 54 g cooked long-grain w hite rice to the tom ato soup im m ediately before serving.
Cream o f Asparagus (Creme A rg e n te u il): Replace the broccoli w ith an equal amount o f asparagus spears, reserving some o f the asparagus tip s fo r garnishing. Cream o f Celery (Creme de C e leri): Replace the broccoli w ith an equal amount o f celery or celeriac. Garnish with blanched small-dice celery.
ch a p te r 14 » S O U P S
339
Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup
New England-Style Clam Chowder
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
6
fI o z/1 8 0 mL clarified butter
60 chowder clams, scrubbed
6
o z/1 7 0 g minced onions
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255), or as needed, or water to make clam broth
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced mushrooms 8
o z/2 2 7 g salt pork, minced to a paste
8
o z/2 2 7 g minced onions
3 o z/8 5 g rough-cut celery 1
o z/2 8 g minced garlic
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice celery 12 o z/3 4 0 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246) 1 lb /4 5 4 g russet potatoes, peeled, small dice 8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL beer (lager or brown ale) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
2 lb /9 0 7 g grated Cheddar cheese 'A o z/1 4 g dry mustard
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed
8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot
1 ts p /5 mL hot sauce, or as needed 1 ts p /5 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed 2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed 2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed V A tsp /2.5 g ground black pepper, or as needed GARNISH 8
o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965), made from rye bread
1 . Steam the clams in the stock or water in a covered rondeau until they open, about 10 minutes.
2.. Decant and strain the broth through a filter or dou ble layer of cheesecloth and reserve. Pick the clams
1 . Melt the butter in a large soup pot or rondeau over me dium heat. Sweat the onions, mushrooms, celery, and garlic until the onions are translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Add the stock and heat to i85°F/85°C. Whisk in the roux and thicken. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the soup has good flavor and a velvety texture, 30 minutes.
3 . Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and discard the solids. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer. Shortly before service, add the beer and cheese and continue to heat the soup gently until the cheese melts. Do not boil.
5 . Blend the dry mustard with enough water to make a
3 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot or rondeau over medium heat until the fat has melted and the meat is crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the onions and celery and sweat until translucent, 6 to 7 minutes.
4 . Combine the reserved clam broth with enough ad ditional stock or water to make 1 gal/3.84 L of liquid. Add the liquid to the aromatics and bring to a sim mer. Gradually add the roux to the stock and whisk to incorporate completely, working out any lumps.
5 . Simmer at i85°F/85°C for 30 minutes, skimming the surface as necessary. 6 . Add the potatoes and sachet. Simmer until the pota toes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. The soup is ready
paste. Add the mustard mixture and the cream to the
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig
soup and bring the soup back to a simmer. Adjust the
erated for later service.
consistency with stock, if necessary. Season the soup with hot sauce, Worcestershire, salt, and pepper. 6 . Serve in heated bowls or cups with the croutons on the side.
340
and chop and reserve the meat.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
7 . Return the soup to a simmer for service. Add the reserved clams and cream. Season the soup with salt, pepper, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
in
O
Conch Chowder
Corn Chowder
Makes l gal/3 . 8 4 L
Makes
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg conch meat, ground through a '/8-in/3-m m die
1
gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
^ •-i
8
o z/2 2 7 g salt pork or bacon, minced
6
o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onions
6
o z/1 7 0 g small-dice celery
n> n
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice ^
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter 4o z/11 3g sm a ll-d ic eg re en p e p p ers 2 lb /9 0 7 g medium-dice Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice red peppers
1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, medium dice
9 o z/2 5 5 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
1
2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Fish Stock (page 255) lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes 1
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste 2
bay leaves
1
^
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g nonstarchy potatoes, peeled, small dice 1
bay leaf
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream, hot 2
tbsp / 2
0
g salt, or as needed
2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /3 g chopped fresh thyme
2 ts p /1 0 mL hot sauce
Salt, as needed
2 ts p /1 0 mL Worcestershire sauce
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medi1 . Combine the conch with the lemon juice in a large nonreactive bowl and marinate for 30 minutes.
2 . Melt the butter in a large sauce pot over medium heat. Add the mirepoix and sweat until the vegetables are tender, about 7 minutes. Add the Scotch bonnet and potatoes and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer.
3 . Add the water, stock, marinated conch, tomato products, bay leaves, and thyme and simmer at
um-low heat until the lean portions of salt pork are slightly crisp, about 6 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, and peppers and sweat until softened, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Whisk in the blond roux, working out any lumps. Simmer until lightly thickened.
4 . Puree half of the corn and whisk it into the soup.
i85°F/85°C until the potatoes are very tender and
Add the potatoes, the remaining whole corn, and the
the soup is well flavored, about 25 minutes.
bay leaf, and simmer at i 85°F/85°C until the corn
4 . Season with salt. Pepper may not be needed because Scotch bonnet peppers are extremely hot. Remove
and potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
5 . Add the cream and stir to combine. Heat just until
and discard the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or
it begins to simmer, about 10 minutes. Remove and
cups.
discard the bay leaf. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a sim mer. Season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, and Worcestershire sauce and serve in heated bowls or cups.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S
341
Pacific Seafood Chowder Makes l gal/3.84 L
4 . Mix the cornstarch with some water to the consis tency of heavy cream and add this to the soup. Add enough slurry to produce a light body. Cook until the soup thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove the sachet. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL dry white wine 8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL water
1 Sachet d’Epices (see page 2 4 1) containing B cloves crushed garlic; 1 o z/2 8 g peeled ginger; 4 stalks lemongrass, cut into 1-in / 3-cm pieces; and 5 kaffir lime leaves
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Add the diced fish and the shrimp and cook until the seafood is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the roasted chayote and heat through. 6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt.
2 q t/1 .9 2 L clam juice I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L coconut milk 8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot
2 o z/5 7 g Red Curry Paste (page 370) 1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, medium-diced taro root
1
chayote, pitted and cut into medium dice
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1
o z/2 8 g cornstarch
1 lb /4 5 4 g firm-fleshed fish, such as sea bass, skinned, cut into medium dice 1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (2 1 /2 6 count), peeled, deveined, cut into medium dice Juice of 1 lemon GARNISH 4 fI o z/1 4 g basil leaves, chiffonade
1 . In a large nonreactive pot, combine the wine, water, and sachet and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the clam juice, coconut milk, and cream; return to a simmer at i85°F/85°C and mix in the curry paste.
2 . Add the taro and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes.
3 . Meanwhile, toss the chayote with the oil and season with salt and black pepper. Roast the diced chayote in a 35o°F/i77°C oven until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve.
342
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv ing with basil.
Manhattan^Style Clam Chowder Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Puree o f Lentil Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 8
o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 10 lb /4.54 kg chowder clams, washed 3 o z/8 5 g salt pork, minced to a paste 1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 lb /9 0 7 g brown lentils, rinsed and sorted 5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice leeks, white parts only 2
tbsp / 2
1
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice green peppers 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 12 o z/3 4 0 g russet potatoes, peeled, cut into medium dice
0
g salt, or as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice GARNISH
1
bay leaf
8
o z/2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
1
thyme sprig
1
o z/2 8 g chopped chervil
1
oregano sprig
1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cut into medium dice Salt, as needed
1 . Render the bacon in a large stockpot over low heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Reserve the bits of bacon for gar nish or leave in the soup for additional flavor.
Ground white pepper, as needed ’/2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce V 2 ts p /2.50 mL Worcestershire sauce 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g Old Bay seasoning
2 .. Add the mirepoix and cook over medium heat until tender and lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
3 . Add the lentils and allow them to lightly toast before adding the stock. Add the stock and sachet to the pot. Bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C and skim as
1 . In a covered pot, steam the clams in 1 gal/3.84 L water until they open, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the
4 . Simmer the soup until the lentils are tender, 30 to
clam meat from the shells; chop and reserve. Strain
40 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the
and reserve the clam broth.
sachet. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over medium
5 . Strain the mixture, reserving the soup broth. Puree
heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly
the solids in a food mill or with an immersion blend
crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the mirepoix, leeks, and
er. Add enough of the reserved soup broth to achieve
peppers and sweat until softened, about 5 minutes.
the proper consistency.
3 . Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute, until aromatic. Add the reserved clam broth, potatoes, bay leaf, thyme, and oregano and simmer over medium to medium-low heat until all of the vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes.
4 . Remove and discard the herbs. Add the tomatoes. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Degrease the soup. Add the reserved clams and season with salt, white pepper, hot sauce, Worces tershire sauce, and Old Bay. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
344
needed.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
6 . Season with lemon juice. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
7 . Return the soup to a simmer at i85°F/85°C for ser vice and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with the reserved bacon, croutons, and chervil.
m
o
Puree o f Split Pea Soup Makes l gal/ 3 . 8 4 L 8
1—1* M akes 1 g a l/ 1 .8 4 L
rD 3 o z /8 5 g small-dice salt pork
tsp / 6 g minced garlic 8
5 q t/4 .8 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green split peas
8
o z/2 2 7 g nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, large dice
1
ham hock
1
bay leaf
2
tbsp / 2
1
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper, or as needed
^
n
o z/2 2 7 g minced bacon
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243) 2
Caribbean-Style Puree o f Black Bean
^
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans, soaked overnight V / 2 g al/5 .7 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) smoked ham hocks I 5 ' / 2 f I o z /1 6 5 mL dry sherry 2
0
g salt, or as needed
GARNISH 1 lb /4 5 4 g Croutons (page 965)
1 . Render the bacon in a large sauce pot over medium heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bits of bacon and reserve for garnish.
V 2 tsp / 1 g ground allspice Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed GARNISH 13 o z/3 6 9 g sour cream o z/1 5 6 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes 5 '/ 2
1
o z /2 8 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
2 . Add the mirepoix to the rendered fat and saute until the onions become transparent, 8 to 10 minutes. * Add the garlic and saute for another minute until fragrant; do not brown the garlic.
3 . Add the stock, split peas, potatoes, ham hock, and bay leaf and bring to a simmer at i85°F/85°C. Sim mer the soup until the peas are tender, about 45 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Remove the ham hock and dice the lean meat, if desired, and reserve for finishing.
4 . Puree the soup until smooth using a food mill or immersion blender. Add back the ham hock meat,
1 . Render the salt pork in a large sauce pot over low heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, about 10 minutes.
2 . Add the mirepoix and sweat until the onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Add the beans, stock, sachet, and ham hocks. Sim mer until the beans are very tender, 3 to 4 hours.
4 . Remove the ham hocks and dice the lean meat to add as garnish, if desired.
5 . Puree half of the beans using a food mill or food processor. Return the bean puree to the soup. Stir in
if desired. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
the sherry and allspice. Season with salt and pepper.
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer
6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil.
at i85°F/85°C. Serve it in heated bowls or cups and
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv
garnish each serving with croutons and bacon, if
ing with the diced ham hock meat, if using, the sour
desired.
cream, tomatoes, and green onions.
Puree o f Yellow S p lit Pea Soup: Replace the green sp lit peas w ith an equal amount o f yellow sp lit peas.
ch a p te r 14 » SO U P S
345
Senate Bean Soup
Potage Garbure
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight
I V 2 g al/5.76 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 2
smoked ham hocks
2 ft o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 6
o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onions
6
o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice carrots
6
o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice celery
2
garlic cloves, minced
2 o z/5 7 g ground salt pork 2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil 8
o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped onions
8
o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped carrots
12 o z/3 4 0 g finely chopped leeks, white and pale green parts 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced nonwaxy potatoes 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced green cabbage
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 2 4 1) 12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes 6
to
8
drops hot sauce Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed GARNISH
1 . Combine the beans, stock, and ham hocks in a stock-
8
o z /2 2 7 g Croutons (page 965)
pot. Simmer over medium heat until the beans are almost tender, about 2 hours.
2 . Strain the broth and reserve. Reserve the beans separately. Dice the lean meat of the ham hocks and reserve for garnish.
1 . Render the salt pork with the olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat until the fat melts from the pork, 12 to 15 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, carrots, and leeks and stir until the
3 . Heat the oil in the same stockpot. Add the onions,
vegetables are coated with fat. Cover the pan and
carrots, and celery and sweat over medium heat
smother over low heat, stirring from time to time,
until the onions are translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add
until the vegetables are tender and translucent, 10 to
the garlic and saute until it is aromatic, about 1
12 minutes.
minute.
4 . Return the beans and broth to the pot. Add the
3 . Add the stock, potatoes, cabbage, and tomatoes and simmer over low to medium heat until the potatoes
sachet. Simmer at i85°F/85°C until the beans are
are just starting to fall apart, 20 to 25 minutes. Skim
tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove and discard the
the surface of the soup as needed during cooking
sachet.
time. Taste the soup periodically to monitor the
5 . Puree half of the soup in a blender or with a food mill. Combine the puree and reserved ham with the remaining soup. Adjust the consistency with addi
cooking time and adjust seasoning as the soup sim mers.
4 . Puree the soup to a coarse texture. The soup is ready
tional broth or water if necessary. The soup is ready
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig
to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrig
erated for later service.
erated for later service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper.
over low heat until heated through, 6 to 8 minutes.
Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv
Season with hot sauce, salt, and pepper.
ing with a crouton.
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
in
O £
Vichyssoise
Ground black pepper, as needed
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
1 q t/9 6 0 mL heavy cream, hot
^
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined
CD
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil 1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g finely chopped leeks, white parts only
6
o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped onions
3 lb /1.36 kg nonwaxy potatoes, peeled, medium dice 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) 1
tbsp / 1
0
g salt, plus more as needed
V 2 t s p / l g Old Bay seasoning V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL hot sauce, or as needed V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed 4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry sherry
1 . Rinse the shrimp shells thoroughly and drain. Saute the shrimp shells in 2 oz/57 g ° f the butter in
Ground white pepper, as needed
a medium stockpot over medium-high heat until
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL half-and-half
the shells turn bright pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove
2 o z/5 7 g snipped chives
^
the shells from the pot and reserve.
2 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions. 1 . Heat the oil in a medium stockpot. Add the leeks and onions and sweat over medium-low heat until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Increase the heat to high. Add the potatoes, stock, sachet, 1 tablespoon salt, and white pepper. Bring to a full boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and sim
Saute until the onions are translucent, about 2 minutes.
3 . Add the garlic, paprika, and tomato paste and cook until there is a sweet, cooked-tomato aroma, about 2 minutes.
4 . Deglaze with the brandy and reduce until nearly
mer until the potatoes are soft, about 30 minutes.
dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Add back the cooked shrimp
Remove and discard the sachet.
shells.
3 . Puree the soup in batches using a blender or food mill. Rapidly cool the soup and refrigerate until service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, stir in the half-andhalf and chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper. Serve in chilled bowls or cups.
5 . Add the veloute and simmer over medium-low heat, until the bisque is intensely rust colored and has thickened slightly, about 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper as the bisque simmers. 6 . Strain the bisque through a fine-mesh strainer, or use the wringing method (see page 329).
7 . Return the bisque to a simmer and add the cream. 8 . Cut the shrimp into small dice and saute in the
Shrimp Bisque Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
remaining 1 oz/28 g butter over medium-high heat, until cooked through and pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the shrimp to the bisque and simmer for 5 minutes.
9 . Add the Old Bay, hot sauce, and Worcestershire 1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g shrimp shells
3 o z/8 5 g butter 1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1
sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
10. To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add the sherry and serve in heated bowls or cups.
tbsp / 6 g paprika, or as needed
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste 3 f I o z/9 0 mL brandy 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish or Shrimp Veloute (page 2 9 4) Salt, as needed
c h a p te r 14 » SO UP S
347
Lobster Bisque
8 . Whisk in the roux and cook until the soup thick ens, 10 minutes more, stirring out any lumps.
( B is q u e
d e
H o m a r d )
9 . Add the cream. Reduce at a simmer to the desired consistency. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon
M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L
juice. Pass it through a strainer again, if necessary. 3 flo z /9 0 m L o liv e o il
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rap
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice onions
idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice carrots
10 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add the tarragon and serve in heated bowls or
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g small-dice celery 8
cups.
o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced leeks
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg small-dice fennel 6
garlic cloves, crushed
4 o z /1 13 g tomato paste
Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo
2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL brandy
M akes 1 g a l/ 3 .8 4 L
lb 5 o z/2.86 kg lobster shells, cleaned, roasted, and crushed
6
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL dry white wine 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Fish Stock (page 255) r / 2 q t / 1 .4
4
L water
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, small dice
4 o z /1 13 g Italian rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)
o z/2 2 7 g boneless, skinless chicken breast, medium dice
5 o z/1 4 2 g Blond Roux (see page 246)
8
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice green peppers
Salt, as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice celery
Cayenne, as needed
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
3 'A o z/9 9 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
8
1
o z/2 8 g tarragon leaves, chopped
o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped garlic
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced okra
1 . Heat the oil in a large soup pot or rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat for 5
o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes
minutes. Add the carrots, celery, leeks, fennel, and
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, baked until dark brown
garlic and sweat for 5 minutes longer.
8
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 . Add the lobster shells and sweat until the shells are very fragrant, about 10 minutes.
3 . Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it turns a rusty brown color.
2
bay leaves
1
tsp / 2 g dried oregano
1
tsp / 2 g onion powder
4 . Add the brandy and flambe.
V 2 tsp / 1 g dried thyme
5 . Add the wine and reduce it by half, about 5 minutes.
V i t s p /l g dried basil
6 . Add the stock and water and bring to a boil. Re
Salt, as needed
duce to a simmer, add the rice, and cook, covered, until the rice is very soft, about 45 minutes.
7 . Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer,
Ground black pepper, as needed 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g shrimp, peeled, deveined, and chopped 13 o z/3 6 9 g cooked long-grain white rice
return it to a clean pot, and bring it to a boil. 1 tb sp /9 g file powder
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO U P S
m
O
1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot over
Gazpacho Andaluz
£
medium-high heat and add the andouille. Saute, stir ring occasionally, until the sausage starts to become
( A r id a lu c ia n a>
firm, about 1 minute.
2 . Add the chicken and sear until it begins to lose its raw appearance, 2 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the onions, peppers, celery, jalapenos, green onions, garlic, okra, and tomatoes. Saute, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and the onions are translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.
4 . Add the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring con
n 1—*•
G a z p a c h o , Makes 1 gal/3.84 L lb /3.63 kg peeled, seeded, and medium-diced plum tomatoes
8
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced green peppers 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-diced, peeled cucumbers
stantly. Add the stock and stir constantly to work out
8
garlic cloves, crushed
any lumps.
8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
5 . Add the bay leaves, oregano, onion powder, thyme, basil, salt, and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes. 6 . Add the shrimp and rice and simmer for 2 minutes
rt> m
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
more. Whisk in the file powder. Be sure to blend well, and do not allow the soup to return to a boil.
GARNISH
The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
4 o z /1 13 g small-dice tomatoes
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers 4 o z /1 1 3 g small-dice cucumbers
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Remove the bay leaves. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
1 . Combine the tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, garlic, vinegar, oil, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive con tainer. Cover, refrigerate, and marinate overnight.
2 . Puree the marinated ingredients in a blender or food mill, working in batches if necessary. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . Chill the soup thoroughly. 4 . Serve the soup in chilled bowls or cups and garnish each serving with diced tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.
c h a p te r 14 » SO U P S
349
Ham Bone and Co Hard Greens Soup
Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang)
Makes l gal/3.84
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
L
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced salt pork
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
3 fl o z/9 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger
8
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
3A o z/21 g thinly sliced green onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice celery
8
o z/2 2 7 g medium-ground pork butt
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour
1
o z/2 8 g black fungus, soaked, short julienne
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
I V 2 o z/4 3 g lily buds, soaked, short julienne
3 ham hocks
8
o z/2 2 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241)
8
o z/2 2 7 g small-dice firm tofu
1 lb /4 5 4 g trimmed collard greens, chopped, blanched
3Yz q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
Salt, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark soy sauce
Ground black pepper, as needed
8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL rice vinegar
1
tb s p /lO g s a lt
1 . Render the salt pork in a stockpot over medium heat until the fat has melted and the meat is slightly crisp, 5 to 7 minutes.
2 . Add the butter, onions, and celery, and sweat until the onions are translucent, about 6 minutes.
3 . Add the flour and cook for several minutes to make a pale roux, stirring frequently.
4 . Gradually add the chicken stock, whisking out any
3/4 o z/21 g ground black pepper 2 'A o z/6 4 g cornstarch 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water 3 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil GARNISH 1
o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions
lumps.
5 . Add the ham hocks and sachet, bring to a simmer,
1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or soup pot over
and cook for 1 hour. Add the greens to the soup. Sim
medium-high heat. Add the ginger and green onions
mer until tender, about 30 minutes.
and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
6 . Remove the hocks and sachet. Remove the lean meat from the hocks and cut it into small dice. Return the diced meat to the soup and season with salt and pepper. The soup is ready to serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until it is cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.
3 . Add the black fungus, lily buds, and cabbage and stirfry until the cabbage is tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Add the tofu, stock, soy sauce, vinegar, salt, and pep per and bring the soup to a boil.
5 . Mix the cornstarch and water together. Slowly add the slurry to the boiling soup, stirring constantly. Slowly stir the eggs into the soup. 6 . Hold hot, but do not boil.
7 . Add the sesame oil. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with green onions.
350
STOCKS, SA UCES , A N D SO UP S
C/3
O
Spicy Beef Soup
U . Add the green onions, red pepper paste, soybean
£
paste, soy sauce, cabbage, and reserved beef. Return
a n g Makes
1
gal/ 3 . 8 4 L
the soup to a boil, stirring occasionally.
7
.
In a separate heavy skillet, heat the sesame oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until aro
7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg beef bones 1
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g beef flank, trimmed, fa t reserved
1 gal 16 fl o z/4 .3 2 L water 1 lb /4 5 4 g onions, peeled and quartered 1 o z/2 8 g ginger, peeled, cut into '/8 -in /3 -m m slices
i-i
CD n 1—*•
matic, about 30 seconds. Add the bean sprouts and stir-fry until cooked, but still firm, about 3 minutes.
n> C/3
Add the cooked sprouts to the soup. 8 . Add the eggs to the soup and stir very gently to cre ate long ribbons. Taste and season with salt and pep per. Serve in heated bowls or cups.
2 o z/5 7 g beef fat 1
o z/2 8 g all-purpose flour
1
tbsp / 6 g thinly sliced green onions
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Korean red pepper paste 8
fI o z/2 4 0 mL Korean soybean paste
1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce 10 o z/2 8 4 g green cabbage chiffonade V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 3 o z/8 5 g bean sprouts, cut into l-in /3 -c m lengths 2
eggs, lightly beaten
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Blanch the beef bones in a large stockpot. Drain and rinse.
2 .. Return the bones to the stockpot and add the beef and water. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Simmer over medium-low heat until the beef is ten der, about 1 hour 15 minutes. When the beef is ten der, remove it from the pot and plunge it into cold water for 15 minutes. Pull the beef into i-in/3-cm strips. Refrigerate, covered.
3 . Add the onions and ginger to the broth and sim mer over medium-low heat for about 1 hour. At this point, the broth can be strained, rapidly cooled, and refrigerated for service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, skim the broth and return it to a boil.
5 . Render the beef fat in the reserved fat, browning slightly. Strain the melted fat and transfer 2 tbsp/30 mL to a stockpot. Add the flour to create a roux, stir ring over low heat for 5 minutes. Gradually add the hot broth, stirring frequently, and bring to boil.
chapter 14 » S O U P S
351
o
Miso Soup Makes l gal/3.84 L V 2 o z/1 4 g dried wakame seaweed 1 g al/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266) fl o z/2 4 0 mL miso (use aka [red] miso for summer and shiro [white] for winter) 8
Thai Chicken Soup w ith Coconut Milk and Galangal
^ Q. T3
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
1
c "d
rD cn
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice tofu 3 'A o z/9 2 g minced shallots
GARNISH V A o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
1 . Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes.
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic 2 o z/5 7 g minced lemongrass 2 tb sp /3 0 mL Thai chili paste
Drain it, pour boiling water over it, and plunge it
V A o z/4 3 g galangal, sliced 'A in/ 6 mm thick
into very cold water (no ice). Drain well. Trim off
18 kaffir lime leaves, bruised
any tough parts. Chop the remaining seaweed roughly
V A q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
(V2 in/i cm maximum). Wrap in doubled rinsed cheesecloth and twist to extract excess moisture.
2 . Place the dashi in a large stockpot or wok. Temper
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar, or as needed 6
f I o z/1 8 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed
.
the miso into the dashi gradually, whisking
2 q t/1 .9 2 L coconut milk
constantly to combine completely.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into thin strips
3 . Bring the dashi to a simmer, add the tofu and
V 2 o z/1 8 4 g drained canned straw mushrooms, halved
chopped wakame and simmer for 1 minute. The
6
soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly
4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, seeded, and medium-dice tomatoes
cooled and refrigerated for later service.
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv ing with green onions.
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed 1
tbsp / 1
0
g salt, or as needed
GARNISH 40 cilantro sprigs
1 . Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat and add the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and chili paste. Cook until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
2 . Add the galangal, lime leaves, stock, sugar, fish sauce, and coconut milk. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.
3 . Strain the broth into a pot and discard the solids. Add the chicken, mushrooms, and tomatoes. Sim mer until the chicken is cooked, 3 to 5 minutes.
4 . Add the lime juice and salt and adjust seasoning with sugar and fish sauce. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serv ing with cilantro sprigs.
c h a p te r 14 » SO UPS
353
Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung)
Wonton Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L WONTONS
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
8
o z/2 2 7 g medium-grind pork
8
o z/2 2 7 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 2 fl o z/6 0 mL Red Curry Paste (page 370) 1
o z/2 8 g thinly sliced green onions
1 lb /4 5 4 g shrimp (3 1 /3 6 count), peeled, deveined, halved lengthwise; reserve the shells
2
tsp / 6 g minced ginger
1 tbsp / 8 g minced Thai bird chiles
1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil
4 stalks lemongrass, bruised, cut into 3-in/8-cm lengths
V2 ts p /1 .5 g salt, or as needed 1
1 o z/2 8 g galangal, sliced V b in /3 mm thick 12
kaffir lime leaves, bruised
14 o z/3 9 7 g plum tomatoes, cut into
tb sp /1 5g su g a r
V* tsp /0.5 g ground white pepper, or as needed 48 wonton wrappers, 3-in/8-cm squares
8
wedges each 1
egg, slightly beaten
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g drained canned straw mushrooms, halved
SOUP
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, or as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable or peanut oil
1
o z/2 8 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced green onions, cut on the bias
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger
V/2 o z/4 3 g cilantro leaves
1 g al/3 .8 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 2
I . Heat the oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute; do not let the paste brown.
2 . Add the reserved shrimp shells, chiles, stock, lem
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL dark soy sauce
'A tsp / 1 g salt, or as needed Pinch ground white pepper, or as needed 6
o z/1 7 0 g stemmed spinach
ongrass, galangal, and lime leaves. Simmer for 10
4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, f ine julienne
minutes.
OMELET
3 . Strain the broth into a clean pot and discard the sol ids. Add the tomatoes, mushrooms, fish sauce, and sugar and bring to a boil.
4 . Mix in the lime juice and adjust seasoning with fish sauce. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
5 . Poach the shrimp in some of the broth until they are opaque and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the liquid and cool on a sheet pan. (The poaching liquid can be added back to the soup.) Toss the cooled shrimp with the cilantro and reserve for service. 6 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil. Add the shrimp and cilantro mixture to a heated bowl or cup and ladle the broth on top. Serve immediately.
STOCKS, S A U CES, AND S O U P S
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable or peanut oil 4 eggs, beaten
1 . To make the wonton filling, combine the pork, cab bage, green onions, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, salt, sugar, and pepper and mix well with a spoon or work by hand until thoroughly combined. Keep chilled until ready to fill the wontons.
2 . To make the wontons, spoon 1 tsp/5 mL of the filling mixture into the center of each wrapper and brush the edges of the wrapper lightly with the beaten egg. Fold the wonton in half to make a triangle and then overlap the points, pressing them in place. Keep wontons covered as they are being prepared.
ga
O
3 . Cook the wontons in batches in boiling salted water until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and re
Ground black pepper, as needed
serve, covered.
o z/2 2 7 g escaroie, finely chopped
O)
8
o z/2 2 7 g tubettini pasta
n i—*•
and saute, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 1
Olive oil, as needed
minute.
l 3/ f o z/5 0 g sliced garlic
5 . Add the stock and bring to a boil. Season with soy
i- i
8
4 . To make the soup, heat the oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the green onions and ginger
£
Salt, as needed
•"d o>
GARNISH
sauce, salt, and pepper. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
20 Croutons (page 965) V / i o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan
6 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the spinach and blanch for 30 seconds. Drain
1 . Heat the oil in a large, heavy sauce pot over medium-
and rinse in cold water until chilled. Drain again,
high heat and add the pancetta. Cook until lightly
squeeze out the excess water, and chop coarsely.
browned, about 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Re
Reserve.
move the pancetta with a slotted spoon and drain on
7 . To make the omelet, heat the oil in a medium sauteuse or omelet pan. Cook the eggs, stirring con stantly, until they are set. Flatten the eggs into an
paper towels; reserve. Pour off and reserve all but 1 tbsp/15 mL of the fat.
2 . Reduce the heat to low, add the onion and shallot,
even layer and roll the omelet out of the pan. Allow
and cook until softened and slightly golden in color,
it to cool slightly and then cut into a fine julienne.
5 to 6 minutes.
8 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
3 . Add the drained beans, tomatoes, stock, sachet, and
Add the spinach, ham, and omelet. Simmer just long
cooked pancetta. Simmer until the beans are almost
enough to heat, about 2 minutes.
tender, about 1 hour.
9 . Reheat the wontons if necessary and place three in
4 . Add the carrot and cook until both the beans and
a heated bowl or cup. Ladle the hot soup over the
carrots are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt
wontons and serve at once.
and pepper and reserve warm. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger ated for later service.
5 . Blanch the escaroie in boiling salted water about 1
Tuscan White Bean and Escaroie Soup Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
minute, shock in ice water, and reserve. 6 . Cook the tubettini to al dente in boiling salted water. Shock in ice water, drain well, and toss lightly with olive oil.
7 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer. 2 tb s p /3 0 m L o liv e o il
Brown the garlic in the reserved pancetta fat in a
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice pancetta
sauteuse over medium-high heat, 2 to 3 minutes.
6
o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onion
1
o z/2 8 g minced shallot
Add to the soup. Add the escaroie and pasta and cook until heated through, about 3 minutes. Adjust
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight and drained 1
seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls or cups and garnish each serving with crou tons and grated Parmesan.
lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g canned tomatoes, seeded and chopped
2 V i q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) 4 o z /1 13 g small-dice carrot
chapter 14 » S O U P S
355
Vegetable Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana) Makes l gal/3.84 L 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced onions 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice celery 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g russet potatoes, peeled, cut into small dice 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice zucchini 12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice green beans 2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded savoy cabbage 1 g al/3 .8 4 L Brodo (page 266) 2 pieces Parmesan rind, 3-in/8-cm squares, cleaned 1 lb /4 5 4 g canned plum tomatoes, with juices Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 o z/2 8 4 g Great Northern or navy beans, cooked (see page 1161) GARNISH
4 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a boil and remove the Parmesan rinds, if desired. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Add the beans and serve
H i
with grated Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil.
^ I—»«
T 3
Minestrone
$
Makes 1 gal/3.84 L 2 o z/5 7 g salt pork, minced 2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g paysanne-cut onion 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut celery 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut carrot 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green pepper 8 o z/2 2 7 g paysanne-cut green cabbage V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic 1 lb /4 5 4 g tomato concasse 3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas (see page 1161) 6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked black-eyed peas (see page 1161) 6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked ditalini (see page 815) GARNISH 5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan, or as needed 4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed
1 . Render the salt pork with the oil in a large sauce pot over medium heat until the fat has melted but the
1 . Melt the butter with the oil in a large soup pot over low heat. Add the onions and sweat until wilted and
meat has not browned, about 10 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, carrots, peppers, cabbage,
soft, about 15 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for
and garlic and sweat until the onions are translucent
3 minutes.
about 15 minutes.
2 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence, al
3 . Add the tomato concasse, stock, salt, and pepper.
lowing each to soften before adding the next: celery,
Simmer until the vegetables are tender, 25 to 30
potatoes, zucchini, green beans, and cabbage. Do not
minutes. Do not overcook.
let the vegetables brown.
3 . Add the brodo, cheese rind, and tomatoes with their juices. Partially cover and cook at a low simmer until the vegetables are just cooked, 20 to 25 minutes. Add
4 . Add the chickpeas, black-eyed peas, and ditalini. The soup is ready to finish now, or it may be rapidly cooled and stored for later service.
5 . To finish the soup for service, return it to a simmer.
more broth as necessary. The soup is ready to finish
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish indi
now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
vidual portions with grated Parmesan.
later service.
chapter 14 » S O U P S
357
meats, poultry
PART 4
mise en place for bieats, poultry, sh, and shellfish Bringing out the best flavor in meats, poultry, and fish is a skill that seems to come naturally to a professional chef. Another hallmark of the professional is an ability to cook meats, poultry, and fish to the perfect degree of doneness. These skills develop through concentration, practice, and a basic understanding of seasoning and cooking techniques.
CHAPTER
15
A
dding
dish
sea so n in g s
the
fu l l e s t
at th e
proper
po ssible
b len d s of h erbs and spices as
o n io n s
,
g a r lic
m e a n t to e n h a n c e
,
fr esh fla v o r
fla v o r
,an
or
,
point
. Th e
in t h e
a r r a y
cooking of
pr o c ess
s e a so n in g s
d m a rin a d es that m a y include o ils
dried
h e r b s
not detract
,
or
fro m
spices
. In
e v e r y
or o v e r w h e lm
is k e y
r u n s
,a
c a s e the
to
fro m
,
cid s
,an
t h o u g h
dish
giving
sim ple
a
finished
to
c o m ple x
d a ro m atics such
,
s e a so n in g s
are
. LI Q. UI D M A R I N A D E S
m a y
C H A N G E T H E T E X T U R E O F F O O D S IN A D D I T I O N T O F L A V O R I N G T H E M .
seasonings S a lt and pepper are take n so much fo r gra n te d th a t some beginning cooks fa il to apply these tw o seasonings ea rly enough durin g cooking o r in enough q u a n tity to bring o u t the b e st fla v o r in cooked fo o d s. S a lt and pepper added b e fo re cooking b ring o u t th e in he rent fla v o rs in foo ds. If these seasonings are added only a fte r th e cooking is com plete, th e sa lt and pepper may ta ke on to o much sig nifica nce in th e fin is h e d dish’s flavo r. It is generally b e tte r to apply s a lt and pepper separately. Using your fin g e rtip s to apply s a lt and pepper is a good w ay to c o n tro l th e am ount added and to apply a m ore even coat. S a lt and p e pp er are fun dam e ntal, b u t blends th a t com bine various spices, herbs, and o th e r a ro m a tics can cre a te a p a rtic u la r fla v o r p ro file . Like s a lt and pepper, th e y may be ap plied d ire c tly to raw m eat, p o u ltry, o r fis h . To in te n s ify th e fla v o r o f seeds and spices, to a s t the m e ith e r on th e s to v e to p o r in a m od era te oven ju s t b e fo re grinding. Be sure to pay close a tte n tio n . They can go fro m p e rfe c tly to a s te d to scorched very quickly. To to a s t seeds o r spices in the oven, spread them o u t on a dry sheet pan in a m oderate oven ju s t u n til a plea sant arom a is apparent. S tir o fte n to ensure even browning. Remove im m e d ia te ly and tra n s fe r to a fre s h pan o r p la te to cool. To to a s t spices and seeds on th e stove to p, spread them in a shallow layer in a preheated dry saute pan and toss, shake, o r s w irl th e pan u n til a rich, p e n e tra tin g aroma arises. Trans fe r them to a cool pan to avoid scorching. Fresh herbs and o th e r in g re d ie n ts such as garlic, fre s h o r dry bread crum bs, o r g ra te d cheeses can be blended in to a paste or coating. They are som e tim es m oiste ne d w ith oil, prepared m ustard, or sim ila r in g re d ie n ts to crea te a te x tu re th a t can easily adhere to a fo o d o r make it easier to blend it in to a dish as a fin a l seasoning. Fresh herbs may have d irt in th e ir leaves, so rinse th e m w e ll to rem ove sand o r g rit. Thorough d ryin g im proves th e f la vo r and te x tu re o f the blend by pre ve n tin g w a te r clinging to th e herb's leaves fro m d ilu tin g flavo r. When a spice blend is used as a d ry rub (also called a d ry m arinad e) to coa t foo d, the fo o d is re frig e ra te d a fte r a p p lica tio n to allow it to absorb th e fla vo rs. Very o fte n , these rubs con tain some s a lt to help in te n s ify all the fla v o rs in th e dish. Dry rubs may be le ft on th e fo o d durin g cooking o r th e y may be scraped away fir s t. Spice blends may also be added to a ro m a tic veg etab le s as th e y cook during th e in itia l stages o f p re pa ring a braise o r stew. The f a t used to cook th e veg etab le s releases th e fla v o r o f th e spices and in fu ses th e dish m ore e ffe c tiv e ly than i f th e spice blend w ere s im p ly added to a sim m e ring dish. Barbecued b e e f and Jamaican je rk e d po rk are classic exam ples o f dishes th a t may be prepared using a dry rub. The Jerked Game Hens on page 4 5 9 are m arinate d using a paste to add flavor.
362
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
in O)
P M arinades g e ne rally contain one or m ore o f th e fo llo w in g : oil, acid, and aro m atics
m
(spices, herbs, and vegetables). Oils p ro te c t fo o d fro m in te nse heat du rin g cooking and
O
help hold o th e r fla v o rfu l in g re d ie n ts in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d . Acids, such as vinegar, wine,
P
yo g u rt, and c itru s ju ices, fla v o r th e fo o d and change its te x tu re . In some cases, acids firm o r s tiffe n fo o d s (e.g., the lim e ju ice m arinade th a t "cooks" th e raw fis h in seviche). M a rin a tin g tim e s vary according to the foo d's te x tu re . Tender or d e lica te fo o d s such as
2
QTQ
fis h o r p o u ltry b re a sts req uire less tim e . A to u g h e r c u t o f m ea t m ay be m arinate d f o r days. The ra tio o f acid to o th e r in g re d ie n ts may also a ffe c t tim in g . H igh-acid m arinades, such as th o se used to prepare seviche, produce th e desired e ffe c t w ith in 15 o r 20 m inutes o f applying the m to a foo d. O thers are b e st le ft in co n ta c t w ith fo o d s f o r several hours, w hile som e req uire several days. Some m arinades are cooked b e fo re use; o th e rs are not. S om e tim es th e m arinade is used to fla v o r an accom panying sauce o r may its e lf becom e a d ip p in g sauce. M arinades th a t have been in co n ta c t w ith raw fo o d s can be used in these ways p ro vid ed th a t the y are boile d f o r several m inutes f ir s t to k ill any linge rin g pathogens. To use a liquid m arinade, add it to the in g re d ie n t and tu rn th e in g re d ie n t to coa t evenly. Cover and m arinate, re frig e ra te d , fo r the length o f tim e in d ica te d by th e recipe, the ty p e o f m eat, p o u ltry , o r fish, and th e desired resu lt. Brush o r scrape o f f excess m arinade b e fore cooking and p a t dry, p a rtic u la rly if th e m arinade contains herbs o r o th e r aro m atics th a t burn easily.
A cut o f m eat w ith the proper amount o f dry
Brush marinade on the ingredient or dip
rub.
the ingredient in the marinade to coat it thoroughly.
Chapter 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
363
S
t u ffin g s
add
f la v o r
,
m o istu r e
,
an d
t e x t u r e
to
a
dish
. The
sim ple st
st u ffin g s
are
m ade
F R O M O N L Y H ER B S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D F RUI TS; O P T I O N S I N C L U D E Q U A R T E R E D OR H A L V E D O NI O NS , G AR LI C CL OVES, L E M O N S OR O RA N G ES , AN D SPRIG S OR B U N C H E S OF F R E S H HER BS. A L T H O U G H T H E S E A R E U N CO M PL I CA TE D , T H E Y CA N HA V E A DRAM ATI C IMPACT ON FLAV OR.
stuffings Bread and p a rtic u la rly fo rc e m e a t s tu ffin g s are m ore com plex op tion s. Prepare bread s tu ffin g s by cubing or bre aking breads (pe asa nt-style, corn, French, o r Ita lia n -s ty le ) in to sm all pieces. S tu ffin g s are generally fla v o re d w ith a ro m a tic veg etab le s (ty p ic a lly cooked in some fa t to develop th e ir fla vo r), herbs, and spices. Some bread s tu ffin g s are m oistened w ith sto cks o r bro th s. O ptio nally, eggs may be included to bind the s tu ffin g . A d d itio n a l in gre die nts, such as cooked sausage, seafood, o r m ushroom s, may also be included. Grain-based s tu ffin g s are based upon rice, barley, kasha, or o th e r grains th a t have been cooked un til ju s t te n d e r (use the p ila f or sim m ering m ethods; see pages 761 and 754). Once cooked, cool the grains com p le te ly b e fore the s tu ffin g is added to meat, poultry, or fish. These s tu ffin g s can be seasoned, m oistened, and bound sim ilarly to bread-based s tu ffin g s. F orcem eat s tu ffin g s can be prepared using any o f th e fo rc e m e a t m ethods o r recipes included in C hapter 3 0 (pages 98 5 to 1011). These m ixtu re s m ust be handled c a re fu lly to keep them w e ll chille d and w holesom e. Keep fo rc e m e a ts over an ice bath fo r q u a lity as w ell as fo o d s a fe ty. They are o fte n used to f ill d e lica te cuts o f m eat and fis h (e.g., to spread on to fis h fille ts b e fo re the y are ro lle d in to p a u p ie tte s and shallow-poached). A n o th e r im p o rta n t co n sid eratio n w ith s tu ffin g s , along w ith fla v o r and q u a lity, is p ro p e r handling f o r fo o d s a fe ty. Any s tu ffin g in g re d ie n ts th a t req uire p re coo king should be cooled to below 40 °F /4 °C b e fo re th e y are com bined w ith o th e r s tu ffin g elem ents. The fin ish e d m ix tu re should also be chilled w e ll b e fo re s tu ffin g . D uring fin a l cooking, s tu ffin g s m ust reach th e m inim um safe te m p e ra tu re fo r the fo o d the y were s tu ffe d into. S tu ffin g in a chicken b re a st or leg, fo r instance, m ust reach 165°F /74°C . For th is reason, whole chickens and tu rke ys are ra re ly s tu ffe d in p ro fe ssio n a l kitchens. By the tim e the s tu ffin g reaches the necessary te m p e ra tu re , th e m eat w ould be overcooked. Instead, s tu ffin g s f o r w hole roa ste d birds are m ore o fte n baked sep ara te ly, in which case th e y are known as dressings.
364
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
It
is p r e p a r e d b y c o a t i n g f o o d s w i t h
T H E M O S T E F F IC IE N T W A Y TO COAT A N U M B E R OF IT E M S , U S IN G A C O N S IS T E N T S E d U E N C E .
standard breading Be sure to season th e fo o d b e fo re ap plying any coating. Use flo u r and sim ila r meals o r powders, such as corn sta rch, to lig h tly dredge o r du st
standard breading
B r e a d i n g is d o n e t o c r e a t e a c r i s p c r u s t o n f r i e d f o o d s .
F L O U R , EG G W A S H , A N D B R E A D C R U M B S O R O T H E R C O A T I N G S . T h e S T A N D A R D B R E A D I N G P R O C E D U R E IS
fo o d s b e fo re th e y are dipped in an egg wash. M ake an egg wash by blending eggs (whole, yolks, o r w h ite s) and w a te r or m ilk. A gen eral guid eline calls fo r ab ou t 2 f l o z /6 0 mL m ilk f o r every 2 w hole eggs. Some item s are dipp ed in to m ilk o r b u tte rm ilk b e fo re th e y are breaded, ra th e r than in egg wash. Bread crum bs may be dry or fresh. Fresh w h ite bread crum bs (called m ie de pain in French) are prepared by g ra tin g or p rocessing fin e ly te x tu re d bread, such as w h ite Pullman bread w ith the cru s t rem oved. Dry bread crum bs (called chapelure in French) are prepared fro m s lig h tly stale bread th a t may be fu rth e r d ried o r to a s te d in a w arm oven. Panko (Japa nese bread crum bs) has becom e very popular. These breadcrum bs are coarser than sta n dard bread crum bs and cre a te a crunchy c ru s t when frie d . O th er in g re d ie n ts may be used in place o f o r in a d d itio n to bread crumbs. O ptions in clude nuts, seeds, shredded coconut, c orn flake s, p o ta to flake s, shredded p o ta to e s, gra te d cheese, ground spices, g a rlic paste, and chopped herbs. B lo t th e fo o d dry w ith paper to w e ls and season as desired. Hold it in one hand and dip it in flo u r. Shake o f f any excess flo u r and tra n s fe r th e fo o d to th e co n ta in e r o f egg wash. S w itch hands, pick up th e foo d, and tu rn it if necessary to coa t it on all sides. T ransfer it to the co n ta in e r o f bread crum bs. Use your dry hand to pack bread crum bs evenly around the fo o d . Shake o f f any excess, then tra n s fe r the fo o d to a rack s e t over a holding tray. S tore breaded fo o d in single layers, b u t if you m ust sta ck th e pieces, use pa rchm e nt or waxed paper to separate th e layers. D iscard any unused flo u r, egg wash, and bread crum bs. The presence o f juices, d rip pings, or p a rtic le s o f the fo o d you ju s t coa ted w ill con ta m in a te the se pro du cts, m aking the m unsafe f o r use w ith o th e r foo ds. Even s iftin g th e flo u r o r crum bs o r s tra in in g th e egg wash w ill n o t be s u ffic ie n t to pre ven t cross co n ta m in a tio n and e lim in a te th e p o te n tia l fo r fo o d -b o rn e illness.
Standard breading procedure setup
365
general guidelines for determining doneness in meats, poultry, and fish Chefs m ust re ly n o t only on a th e rm o m e te r, b u t also on th e ir senses when cooking. Those senses are p u t to a g re a te r te s t in d e te rm in in g doneness in a la m in ute cooking because chefs can't a ctu a lly ta s te w h a t th e y are serving, th e w ay th e y can ta s te a soup o r a sauce. Follow the se guidelines: »
THE WAY IT SMELLS. As fo o d s near doneness, th e ir sm ells change. Arom as in te n s ify and becom e easier to id e n tify . Each cooking m ethod produces a p a rtic u la r aroma. G rilled and b ro ile d fo o d s should have a pleasing sm oky, charred arom a, in d ic a tin g rich, deep flavo r.
»
THE WAY IT FEELS. Foods should be easy to cu t and chew. Touch fo o d s (w ith a gloved fin g e r) to gauge resistance. The less w ell-done a piece o f m eat is, th e s o fte r and m ore yie ld in g it w ill fe e l. Keep in m ind th a t te x tu re varies in d iffe re n t cuts o f meat.
»
THE WAY IT LOOKS. As m eat cooks, th e e x te rio r w ill change color. The in te rio r colors also change, an im p o rta n t fa c to r when d e te rm in in g doneness in m eats cooked to cus to m e r p re fe re n ce (rare, m edium , o r w ell done). If th e m ea t appears pale or even gray, it has n o t been p ro p e rly cooked. The ju ice s th a t run fro m th e m eat, although m inim al, should be th e c o rre c t color; th e ra re r th e m eat, th e re d d e r th e ju ice s w ill appear. Appearance is also an im p o rta n t fa c to r in know ing when to tu rn a piece o f m eat. When
th e m eat's up pe r surface begins to appear ve ry m o is t (there may even be m o istu re beads), the m eat should be turne d. Thin pieces may s ta rt to change co lo r a t th e edges when the y are ready fo r turning. The te m p e ra tu re s in th e fo llo w in g ta b le are fin a l re s tin g tem p e ra tu re s, based on the USDA's safe cooking guidelines. M o st m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h need to be rem oved fro m the pan, g rill, o r oven b e fore the y reach th e ir fin a l te m p e ra tu re to avoid overcooking and drying out. Heat is retained by fo o d s even a fte r they are rem oved fro m th e heat source. That re sidual heat causes th e fo o d to keep cooking, a phenomenon re fe rre d to as ca rryo ve r c oo k ing. Internal te m p e ra tu re s taken ju s t as th e fo o d is rem oved fro m the oven and again a fte r re s tin g w ill show a te m p e ra tu re d iffe re n c e o f anywhere fro m a fe w degrees to ten, fifte e n , or more. F actors th a t play a role in changes in in te rna l te m p e ra tu re during re stin g include the mass o f the fo o d being prepared and the presence o r absence o f s tu ffin g and bones.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
FINAL RESTING TEMPERATURE
DESCRIPTION
RARE
1 3 5 °F /5 7 °C
In te rio r appearance shiny
M EDIUM -R ARE
1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C
Deep red to pink
M EDIUM
1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C
Pink to lig h t pink
W ELL-DONE
1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C
L ig h t p in k w ith g ra yin g on th e edges f o r m edium -w ell; no pink f o r w e ll done
M ED IU M
1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C
M e a t opaque th ro u g h o u t; s lig h t give; ju ice s w ith fa in t blush
W ELL-DONE
1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C
S lig h t give; ju ic e s cle ar
FRESH HAM
1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C
S lig h t give; ju ic e s w ith fa in t blush
PRECOOKED (TO REHEAT)
1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C
M e a t a lre a d y fu lly cooked
WHOLE BIRDS (CHICKEN, TURKEY, DUCK, GOOSE)
1 8 0 °F /8 2 °C
Leg easy to move in so cke t; ju ic e s w ith only blush
POULTRY BREASTS
1 7 0 °F /7 7 °C
M e a t opaque; fir m th ro u g h o u t
PO ULTRYTHIGHS, LEGS, WINGS
1 8 0 °F /8 2 °C
M e a t releases fro m bone
STUFFING (COOKED ALONE OR IN BIRD)
1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C
The appearance o f th e fu lly cooked s tu ffin g w ill depend on th e recipe
TURKEY, CHICKEN
1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C
O paque th ro u g h o u t; ju ic e s cle ar
BEEF, VEAL, LAM B, PORK
1 6 0 °F /7 1 °C
DEGREE OF DONENESS fre sh beef, ve al, a nd la m b
general guidelines
Temperatures and Descriptions of Degrees o f Doneness
fresh p o rk
h am
p o u ltr y
g ro u n d m e a t a n d m e a t m ix tu re s
Opaque, m ay have blush o f red; ju ice s opaque, no red
seafood FISH
1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C
S till m o ist; se p a ra te s e a sily in to segm ents. Or u n til opaque
SHRIMP, LOBSTER, CRAB
S hells tu rn red, fle s h becom es p e arly opaque
SCALLOPS
Turn m ilk y w h ite o r opaque; firm
CLAM S, MUSSELS, OYSTERS
S hells open
c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
367
Garam Masala
Barbecue Spice Mix
M akes 2 oz /5 7 g
M akes 2 oz /57 g
12 to 13 green or black cardamom pods
V2 o z/1 4 g Spanish paprika
4 ts p /7 g coriander seeds
V2 o z/1 4 g Chili Powder (recipe follows, or purchased)
4 ts p /8 g c u m in seeds
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces
2 ts p /4 g ground cumin
V A
ts p /2.50 g cloves
ZV 2 ts p /5 g black peppercorns 'A
ts p /0.50 g ground nutmeg
2 or 3 bay leaves (optional)
2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r l t s p / 2 g dry mustard 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 1 ts p /2 g dried thyme 1 ts p /2 g dried oregano
1 . Break open the cardamom pods and remove the seeds. Combine the cardamom, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, and peppercorns. Roast in a
1 ts p /3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) V 2 ts p / 1 g cayenne
350°F/i77°C oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove and cool slightly.
2.. Combine the roasted spices with the nutmeg and
Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con tainer and use within 1 month.
bay leaves (if using) in a clean spice grinder and grind to a medium-fine powder.
3 . Store in a tightly sealed container and use within 1 month.
Chili Powder M akes 2 oz /57 g
r
/2
o z/4 3 g dried chiles, ground
Chinese Five-Spice Powder
V2 o z/1 4 g ground cumin
M akes 2 oz/57 g
'A ts p /0.50 g ground coriander
5 star anise pods 2 or 3 cloves
1 ts p /2 g dried oregano
V2 tsp /1 g garlic powder
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves (optional)
Combine all the spices including the cloves, if de
4'/2 ts p /9 g Szechwan peppercorns
sired. Store in a tightly sealed container and use
1 tb sp /7 g fennel seeds
within 1 month.
'A
cinnamon stick (about 1 in /3 cm cinnamon stick)
NOTES: Remove the seeds from the chiles if a less spicy blend is desired.
1 . Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly
Some commercially prepared chili powder is actually a blend sim ilar to this one.
sealed container and use within 1 month.
2 . When needed, measure the appropriate amount and lightly toast the powder in a dry saute pan until you can smell the aromas of the spices. Quickly transfer the toasted powder to a cool pan or container so that it does not continue to cook and burn.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
This chili powder should not be confused w ith the ground chiles called fo r in some recipes.
Fines Herbes
Makes
Makes
2
oz/s7 g
2
oz/ 5 7 g
V A o z/4 3 g cumin seeds
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped chervil leaves
V 2 o z/1 4 g coriander seeds
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives
'A o z/1 4 g ground turmeric
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley leaves
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g chopped tarragon leaves
2 tb s p /1 2 g ground ginger
Combine all the herbs and mix well. Store in a
2 ts p /8 g mustard seeds
tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 1 to 2
8 dried red chiles
days or use as needed.
1 . Combine all the spices. Roast in a 350°F/i77°C oven
NOTES: Add marjoram, savory, lavender, or watercress to the
until fragrant, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and
herb m ixture to adjust the flavor, if desired.
cool slightly. Split the chiles and remove and discard
Fines herbes should be added near the end o f cooking tim e because they do not hold th e ir flavo r long.
the stems and seeds.
2.. Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and grind them to a medium-fine powder. Store in a
mise en place recipes
Curry Powder
Typical uses include flavoring fo r omelets or crepes, or as the fina l addition to soups and consommes.
tightly sealed container and use within 1 month. NOTE: Add paprika, cloves, or fresh curry leaves to the blend, if desired.
Quatre Epices Makes
2
oz/5 y g
V A o z/3 5 g black peppercorns 'A o z/1 4 g ground nutmeg 1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon 2 ts p /4 g cloves
Combine all the spices in a clean spice grinder and grind to a medium-fine powder. Store in a tightly sealed container and use within 1 month.
c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M EAT S, POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
369
Red Curry Paste
Green Curry Paste
Makes 2 oz/57 g
Makes
2
OZI5 7 S
V 2 o z/1 4 g red bird chiles
1A ts p /0 .5 0 g cumin seeds
4 dried New Mexico or guajillo chiles, stemmed, cut into several pieces
V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds V / 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds 'A ts p /0.50 g white peppercorns 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 1 tb sp /9 g thinly sliced lemongrass V / 2 ts p /4.50 g thinly sliced galangal V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest 1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems
5 white peppercorns 1 or 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 5 green Thai chiles, stems and seeds removed V 2 o z/1 4 g thinly sliced lemongrass V / 2 tsp /1 g finely chopped cilantro root or stems V 2 tsp /1 g sliced galangal V 2 ts p /1.50 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available 1 to 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped V 2 tsp /1 g shrimp paste V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
1 ts p /2 g Thai shrimp paste V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt 2 f I o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed
1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra grant, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
1 . Soak the dried chiles in hot water for 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2 . Combine the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in a small saute pan. Toast over medium heat until fra grant, about 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Cool.
3 . Using a clean spice grinder, grind the toasted spices to a medium-fine powder and set aside.
4 . Place the chiles, garlic, shallots, lemongrass, ga langal, lime zest, lime leaves, cilantro root, shrimp paste, salt, and water in a blender and grind into a fine paste.
5 . Add the ground spices and blend together until smooth, adding more water if necessary. 6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.
370
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same manner. Combine with the cumin and coriander.
3 . Grind the toasted spices a clean spice grinder to a medium-fine powder and reserve until needed.
4 . Place the shallots, garlic, chiles, lemongrass, cilantro root, galangal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and salt in a blender and grind into a fine paste.
5 . Add the ground spices and blend until smooth. 6 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.
V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g coriander seeds
Seasoning Mix fo r Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry
2 white peppercorns
Makes 2/4 oz/64 g
Makes 2 oz/57 g V 2 tsp /1 g cumin seeds
V 2 o z/1 4 g Thai chiles, stemmed, split, and seeded
1 o z/3 5 g salt
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 tb s p /1 2 g dry mustard
2 medium shallots, sliced
2'/z ts p /5 g ground black pepper
V A ts p /3 g ground turmeric
V/2 ts p /3 g dried thyme
V/2 ts p /4 .5 0 g thinly sliced galangal
V/2 ts p /3 g dried oregano
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lime zest, kaffir if available
V/2 tsp / 3 g ground coriander
1 or 2 kaffir lime leaves, chopped
V/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g celery seed
mise en place recipes
Yellow Curry Paste
1 ts p /2 g shrimp paste 1 ts p /3 g salt
Combine all the spices. Store in a tightly sealed con
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vegetable oil
tainer and use within 1 month.
1 . Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small saute pan over medium heat until golden brown and fra grant. Transfer to a small bowl.
2 . In the same pan, toast the peppercorns in the same manner. Add to the cumin and coriander.
3 . Toast the chiles very lightly in the same pan, just until dark spots begin to appear. (Do not let them blacken.) Remove from the pan and set aside.
4 . Toast the garlic and shallots in the same manner. Set aside.
5 . Grind the cumin, coriander, and peppercorns in a clean spice grinder to a medium-fine powder and reserve until needed. 6 . Combine the chiles, garlic, shallots, turmeric, ga langal, zest, lime leaves, shrimp paste, and salt in a blender and grind into a fine paste.
7 . Add the ground spices and oil and blend until smooth. 8 . Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.
c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
371
Asian-Styie Marinade
Fish Marinade
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL hoisin sauce
12 f I o z /3 6 0 mL olive oil
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL dry sherry
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL lemon juice, dry w hite wine, or w h ite verm outh
2 f I o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic 2 f I o z /6 0 mL soy sauce 2 t s p / 1 0 g s a lt V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic 2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed
needed.
container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.
Barbecue Marinade 10 f l o z /3 0 0 mL vegetable oil
Red Wine Game Marinade
5 f I o z /1 5 0 mL cider vinegar
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
2 tb s p /3 0 mL W orcestershire sauce
6 f l o z /1 8 0 mL dry red wine
1 tb s p /1 5 g brown sugar
5 o z /1 4 2 g diced onions
2 ts p / 6 g minced garlic
V / 2 o z /4 3 g diced celery
2 t s p / 4 g dry m ustard
I V 2 o z /4 3 g diced carro ts
1 ts p /5 mLTabasco sauce
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
1 ts p / 2 g ga rlic powder
2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar
1 ts p / 2 g onion powder
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 ts p / 2 g dried thym e
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for up to 1 week or use as needed.
V2 ts p /1 g ju nip er berries V 2 ts p /1 g dried savory V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper 1 to 2 parsley sprigs 1 bay le a f
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate or 2 to 3 days or use as needed.
372
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Makes 16 fl
0Z/480
Latin Citrus Marinade
mL
( M o jo ) 4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL dry red wine
Makes
1 6 f l 0Z/480
mL
4 f l o z /1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar 9 f l o z /2 7 0 mL orange juice
2 f l o z /6 0 mL olive oil
41/> f l o z /1 3 5 mL lemon juice
lt b s p / 1 5 g sugar
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lim e juice l t b s p / 6 g dried m int A 'A ts p / 8 g ground annato seeds lt s p / 3 g s a l t r / 2t s p / 5 g s a lt 1 ts p / 2 g ju n ip e r berries 1 ts p /3 g chopped garlic 2 bay leaves 2 onion slices, V 2 in /1 .5 cm th ick
3A ts p /1 .5 0 g dried oregano 3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin
mise en place recipes
Lamb Marinade
1 parsley sprig 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cloves 1 thym e sprig 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon 1 ga rlic clove, minced 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper Pinch ground nutm eg
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.
Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.
c h a p te r 15 » M IS E EN PLACE FOR M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
373
Red Wine Marinade fo r Grilled Meats Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
Teriyaki Marinade Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL soy sauce 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL peanut oil
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL olive oil 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 1 ts p /3 g salt
3 f I o z/9 0 mL dry sherry 1 o z/2 8 g honey 2 tb s p /1 8 g grated orange zest (optional) 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 2 ts p /6 g grated ginger
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
Combine all the ingredients, including the orange Combine all the ingredients. Store in a tightly sealed
zest, if desired. Store in a tightly sealed container
container and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as
and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days or use as needed.
needed.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
abricating meats,
oultry, and fish Meat, poultry, and fish are the most costly part of the food budget of a foodservice operation, no matter the establishment's scale. Generally, the size and scope of the operation determine the form in which it purchases meats, poultry, and fish. For operations with limited labor and storage resources, quality prefabricated boxed meats, poultry, and fish are an acceptable purchasing form.
CH A P T E R 1 6
C h efs w it h t h e m e a n s to do so o f t e n TO C O N T R O L
P O R T IO N
e s t a b l i s h m e n t 's
S IZE A N D
prefer
to
p er fo r m
m a n y
f a b r ic a t io n
Q .U A L IT Y — IM P O R T A N T C O N S ID E R A T IO N S W H E N
tasks
in
-house
I T C O M E S TO T H E
REPU TATIO N.
meat fabrication Depending on th e p re va ilin g local m a rke t rates fo r fo o d and labor, in-house fa b ric a tio n may be less expensive than buying p re fa b ric a te d menu cuts. As a fu rth e r econom ic ben e fit, trim and bones can be used to prepare o th e r dishes (e.g., stocks, soups, sauces, and forcem e ats). General s im ila ritie s e x is t betw een cuts o f beef, veal, lamb, venison, and po rk if they come fro m the same p a rts o f th e butchered animal. M uscle sections th a t are used more fre q u e n tly or p e rfo rm arduous ta sks w ill be to u g h e r than m ore se d e n ta ry m uscle groups. M uscles th a t are located along th e back are used less fre q u e n tly than m uscles th a t are at the e x tre m itie s . T here fore, the rib and th e loin contain the m o st te n d e r cuts. They ten d to co st m ore than cuts fro m th e shoulder, which are o fte n m ore exercised and tougher. The leg may contain te n d e r cuts as w e ll as cuts th a t are q u ite tough. The age and m ethod o f raising the anim al also de te rm in e a level o f tenderness. W hat may be considered a q u a lity cut in one species can be q u ite tou gh in an othe r animal. P roper handling during fa b ric a tio n prepares m eats fo r subsequent cooking. The basic techniques include trim m in g , boning, p o rtio n cu ttin g , ten derizing , grinding, and tyin g . M ost o f the techniques described here do n o t req uire any special know ledge o f th e bones in a cut o f m eat or o f th e anim al’s overall anatom y, although reference to sections o f C hapter 6 , M eat, P oultry, and Game Id e n tific a tio n , w ill be helpful.
376
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating m eat
Trimming a tenderloin A whole pork loin often costs less per pound than a trimmed boneless loin. Removing the fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim can then be roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take some time at first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or cutlets. 1.
L ift and pull aw ay th e chain o f an u n trim m e d te n d e rlo in . This chain pulls
away easily; use th e blade o f a boning k n ife to ste a d y th e te n d e rlo in as the chain is pulled away. If necessary, use the boning k n ife to help rem ove it fro m th e te n d e rlo in .
2.
C o m p le te ly rem ove th e m em brane, collagen, and silverskin . W ork so
th a t your cu ts move to w a rd th e head (the la rg e r end o f th e te n d e rlo in ). This tough m em brane, w hich g e ts its name fro m its som ew hat silv e ry color, ten ds to shrink when exposed to heat and causes uneven cooking. W ork th e to p o f a boning k n ife under th e silve rskin and hold it t ig h t against the m eat. Glide the k n ife blade ju s t underneath, angling the blade upward s lig h tly ag ainst the silverskin . A te n d e rlo in o f b e e f is shown here, b u t the same tech niq ue s can be ap plied to pork, veal, and lam b te n d e rlo in , as w ell as to o th e r cuts o f m ea t w ith silverskin , includ in g to p round o f b e e f and veal and loin cuts o f venison and o th e r large game.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
377
Shaping a medallion Boneless cuts from the tenderloin of beef and the loin or tenderloin of veal, lamb, or pork may be called medallions, noisettes (so named because they are like little nuts of meat), or grenadins (large cuts from the loin). The terms noisette and medallion are often used interchangeably to refer to a small, bone
less tender cut of meat weighing from 2 to 6 oz/57 to 170 g. Tournedos and Chateaubriand are special terms generally used only for beef tenderloin cuts.
Tournedos are typically cut from the thinner end of the tenderloin to weigh 5 oz/142 g. Chateaubriand serves two and is cut from the center of the tender loin; it typically weighs 10 oz/284 g. After the medallions or similar boneless cuts are portioned, they may then be wrapped in cheesecloth and molded to give them a compact, uniform shape. Not only does this give the meat a more pleasing appearance, it also helps the medallion cook evenly. Gather the cheesecloth together and twist to tighten it around the meat. As you twist the cloth with one hand, press down on the meat firmly, with even, moderate pressure, using the broad side of a knife blade or a similar flat object. The medallions on the left have been shaped and are of a more uniform size.
378
MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH
Fabricating boneless meats Meats to be sauteed or pan fried, grilled, or stewed are often fabricated from larger boneless cuts such as rounds, loins, and/or tenderloins. These cuts are typically composed of more than one muscle. Each muscle has its own grain (direction) in which the meat fibers are arranged. Breaking a larger cut into individual sections allows the chef to cut each piece of meat properly for the recipe or menu item. 1.
To d ivid e la rg e r cuts (veal to p round shown here), fo llo w th e na tural
m uscle seam s— th e y a ct as a roadm ap to d e fin e s p e c ific cuts. This makes it possible to c u t each m uscle across the grain and ea sily trim o u t any connec tiv e tissu e o r fa t.
2.
Using th e same tech niq ue as de scrib ed fo r a b e e f te n d e rlo in , trim away
th e f a t and silve rskin . Pay a tte n tio n to th e angle o f the k n ife blade. It should be angled upw ard to p re ve n t rem o ving edible m eat.
3.
C u ttin g th e m ea t across th e grain produces a cu t o f m ea t th a t is less
tou gh than a piece cu t w ith the grain.
ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
379
Shredding and mincing
Cutting and pounding cutlets
The French word for this cut is
A meat cutlet or scallop is a thin boneless cut of meat prepared from the loin,
emince, or “cut into slivers.” Meat is
the tenderloin, or any other sufficiently tender cut of meat such as the top
cut across the grain into thin strips
round. Cutlet, scaloppine in Italian, and escalope in French are different words
of a length and width appropriate for
for the same cut and are used depending on a menu’s particular style. Cutlets
the dish. Since the meat is generally
are typically cut across the grain and on the bias. Cutlets are often pounded to ensure an even thickness over their entire
sauteed, the cut should be one of the most tender. This technique can be
area so that they can be rapidly sauteed or pan fried. A paillard is a pounded
used for beef, lamb, and even pork.
cutlet that is grilled rather than sauteed or pan fried. Adjust the weight of the
Be sure to trim the meat completely
mallet and strength of the blow to match the delicacy of the meat. Turkey cut
before cutting it into emince. Once
lets (slices of turkey breast), for example, require a more delicate touch than
cut, the emince may be pounded, if
pork cutlets. Be careful not to tear or overstretch the meat while pounding it.
appropriate, using the same tech nique as for pounding cutlets. Blot
1 .
the pounded emince dry before
cum ference. Using a s c im ita r k n ife is n o t a b s o lu te ly necessary, b u t w ill help
cooking.
to p re ve n t te a rs in th e m eat when c u ttin g .
2.
Cut pieces o f the same w e ig h t (ge ne rally 1 to 4 o z /2 8 to 113 g) and c ir
Place th e m ea t in betw een layers o f p la s tic wrap. Use a pounding and
pu llin g m o tio n to evenly th in th e c u tle t. Increased surface area and decreased th ickn e ss p ro m o te rapid cooking.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating m eat
Cutting bone-in chops Chops and steaks are made from bone-in cuts from the rib or loin. Large bones can be difficult to saw through, but the bones of cuts from the rib and loin of pork, lamb, venison, and beef are more manageable. 1.
Cut away th e backbone, o fte n re fe rre d to as th e chine bone, using a
handsaw. C o m p le te ly sever th e bone fro m th e rib bones w ith o u t c u ttin g in to the m eat muscle.
2.
Using you r g u id in g hand to hold th e chine bone away fro m th e m eat, w o rk
w ith th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make sm oo th stro k e s along th e fe a th e r bones, c u ttin g the m ea t cleanly away fro m the bones.
3.
Cut betw een each rib bone w ith a s c im ita r or c h e fs k n ife to make in d i
vid ua l chops. W hen c u ttin g th ro u g h th e m eat, use even pressure to cre a te a sm oo th surface on th e chops.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
381
#
Trimming a strip loin and cutting boneless steaks Steaks cut in-house can keep the kitchen’s food cost down. Cuts must be made evenly to guarantee even cooking time. 1.
The s trip loin has a ta il, so m e tim e s re fe rre d to as a lip, running along
one edge o f th e m uscle. C ut away th is heavy layer o f fa t fir s t, ta k in g care not to cut th e in te rio r loin muscle. Hold th is fa t cover ta u t as you run th e kn ife blade down the le ng th o f th e loin, angling th e blade up s lig h tly . Remove I V 2 to 2 in /4 to 5 cm o f th e fa t cover.
2.
A s trip loin m ay have a se ctio n known as th e chain. Once th e fa t cover is
trim m e d to the desired thickn ess, rem ove th e chain. Reserve it fo r a n othe r use.
3.
The ch e f is c u ttin g steaks fro m th e rib end o f th e s trip loin. The ste a k on
the le ft has been cu t fro m th is end. The V -shaped s tre a k o f collagen was re moved and the ste a k on th e rig h t was cu t fro m th e s irlo in end. W hile stea ks cut fro m th is end are as te n d e r as th o se cu t fro m th e rib end, th e collagen its e lf is tough, and can give th e im p ressio n th a t th e ste a k is tough. These stea ks are som e tim es re fe rre d to as vein steaks. A d ju s t th e th ickn e ss o f th e cu t to produce equal-size stea ks o f th e desired w e igh t. R e frig e ra te c u t stea ks u n til ready to cook.
382
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating m eat
Trimming and boning a pork loin A whole pork loin often costs less than a trimmed boneless loin. Removing the fat and bones is relatively easy, and the bones and any lean trim can then be roasted and used to prepare a rich brown jus or stock. It may take some time at first to learn how to properly trim and bone a loin for a roast or cutlets. 1 .
The novice should c u t s lo w ly and sto p to exam ine the loin betw een cuts.
The f ir s t s te p when w o rk in g w ith a p o rk loin is to rem ove th e te n d e rlo in , if it is s till in ta c t. N ext, c u t aw ay th e fa t cover to th e de sire d th ickn e ss. Make sm oo th s tro k e s along th e rib bones to fre e the m eat, as shown here. Pull the bones away fro m th e m ea t w ith your g u id in g hand to make it easy to see and pre ve n t cuts in to th e edib le m eat. Pass th e k n ife close to th e bones, scraping the m clean so th a t as litt le m ea t as po ssib le is le ft on th e bones.
2.
Use th e tip o f th e k n ife to cu t around jo in ts and be tw ee n bones, and use
th e f la t p a rt o f th e blade f o r longer, sw eeping s tro ke s. Near th e b o tto m o f the rib bones is a knob-shaped ridge o r ste p th a t m u st be cu t around to c o m p le te ly rem ove th e m ea t fro m th e bone. It has a lm o st a rig h t angle th a t m u st be cut around. Take care n o t to cu t in to th e ed ib le m e a t when c u ttin g around th e step. Once th e loin has been trim m e d and boned, it can be used to pre pa re a w ide v a rie ty o f menu cuts in clud in g m edallions, c u tle ts , and em ince.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
383
1
Boning a leg of lamb Although this procedure may look difficult, it is possible to do it successfully by following the steps shown in the accompanying illustrations. The leg is covered with a layer of fat and a membrane known as the fell. The fat and membrane should be removed carefully, leaving as much edible meat intact as possible. A leg of lamb can be boned out to use in a number of different ways. It can be butterflied and grilled, or rolled, tied, and roasted. The meat can be divided along the natural seams to make small roasts, or sliced into cutlets or cubes. 1.
The leg con tain s th e hind shank bone, the pe lvic bones (co n sistin g o f
the hip bone and th e aitch bone), a p o rtio n o f th e backbone and ta il, and the leg bone (also known as th e fem ur).
2.
W ork the tip o f th e k n ife around th e pe lvic bone. As you cu t in to th e m eat
to rem ove the bones, use an overhand g rip to hold your boning k n ife and cut w ith the tip o f the blade as you w o rk around bones and jo in ts . W ork the kn ife tip along th e bone to rem ove as much m ea t as possible fro m th e bone.
384
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
& 1-4
I—*• n p
c+ i—*•
P
QTQ rD
p
3 .
When th e m ea t has been fre e d fro m th e p e lvic bone, l i f t th e bone up
and away fro m th e leg.
4.
Make a cut down th e shank bone and cu t th e m ea t cleanly away fro m
th e bone.
5 .
A fte r fre e in g th e m ea t fro m th e shank bone, cu t around th e fe m u r to
rem ove th e bones fro m th e m eat.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
385
Frenching a rack of lamb This technique is one of the more complicated fabrication techniques, but it is not especially difficult to master. Trimmed and frenched racks or chops can be ordered from a meat purveyor, of course, but the chef can exercise greater control over trim loss if the work is done in the kitchen. The same technique can be used to french individual rib chops of lamb, veal, or pork. Any lean trim can be used to prepare jus or a stock. 1 .
Make an even cu t th ro u g h th e fa t cove rin g all the way down to th e bone.
The cut should be ab ou t 1 in /3 cm fro m th e m eat's eye.
2.
S et th e rack on one end and make a sta b b in g cut betw een each p a ir o f
bones, using th e in itia l cut as a guide.
386
MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH
fabricating m eat
4
3.
Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to score th e th in m em brane cove rin g the
bones. This w ill allow th e bones to break th ro u g h th e m em brane easily.
4.
Push th e bones th ro u g h th e m em brane. Use your fin g e rs to s ta b iliz e the
b o tto m o f th e rack w h ile p e eling away th e cu t m em branes and pushing th e bones o u t w ith you r thum bs.
5 .
Lay th e rack so th a t th e bones are fa cin g down. M ake an even cu t to sever
th e fa t cap and m e a t su rro u n d in g th e bone ends. It should pu ll away easily.
ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
387
2
Tying a roast Tying a roast with secure knots that have the right tension is one of the simplest and most frequently required types of meat fabrication. It ensures that the roast will cook evenly and that it will retain its shape after roasting. As long as the string is taut enough to give the roast a compact shape, without being too tight, the result will be fine. Leave the string very long so that it will wrap easily around the entire diameter and length of the meat. Or leave the string attached to the spool and cut it only when the entire roast has been tied. te c h n iq u e o n e For this technique, the string is left attached to the spool rather than cut into lengths. To start tying the roast, tie the end of the string around the thicker end of the meat (any knot that holds securely may be used). 1.
Pass th e s trin g around your o u tsp re a d fin g e rs and th u m b so th a t the
s trin g crosses its e lf and m akes an X.
2.
Spread your hand open to enlarge th e loop.
3.
C ontinue to enlarge the loop u n til it is w ide enough to pass ea sily around
th e th ic k e r end o f th e m eat, co m p le te ly e n circlin g it.
4.
Encircle th e m eat w ith th e loop, m aking sure th a t the kn o ts are spaced
evenly a p a rt fro m one another.
388
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
n
p c+ i—*•
3
Orq
D .
Pull th e loose end o f th e s trin g u n til th e loop is secu rely tig h te n e d around
the m eat. N o te th a t th e s trin g has fo rm e d a h a lf h itch kn o t a t th is p o in t. Con tin u e u n til th e e n tire piece o f m ea t has been secured w ith loops.
6 .
Turn th e piece o f m ea t over. Pass th e loose end o f th e s trin g th ro u g h the
loop, then pass it back around and underneath the loop. Pull th e s trin g tig h t and con tinu e down th e le ng th o f th e m eat.
7.
Once th e s trin g has been w ra pp ed around each loop fro m one end to th e
other, tu rn th e m ea t back over. Cut th e loose end and tie th e s trin g secu rely to the f ir s t loop.
te c h n iq u e t w o For this tying technique, cut several lengths of string. Each piece should be long enough to wrap completely around the meat with sufficient additional length to tie a series of double knots. There are other methods used for tying roasts than the two shown here. If you have the chance to learn other methods, you will be better able to adapt to tying different cuts of meat with ease. Both techniques illustrated here work for both boneless and bone-in roasts. The choice of technique is a matter of personal preference. Technique tw o
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H
389
variety meats In re ce n t years, as A m ericans have becom e less squea
the tongue in a fla v o rfu l b ro th or bouillon, and it w ill be
m ish ab o u t organ m eats, th e dem and f o r p ro p e rly
come very tender. L e t th e tongue cool in the cooking liquid
pre pa red liver, kidneys, tongue, sw e etbre ads, and o th e r
to b o ls te r its flavor. Once the tongue is cooled, care fu lly
kinds o f v a rie ty m eats has grow n. Because the se cuts
peel it to remove the skin. You can peel it away easily
are d iffic u lt to fin d in a g ro ce ry s to re o r even a butcher's
fro m the tip o f the tongue using ju s t your fingers. The skin
shop, many people are u n c o m fo rta b le w ith o r unsure o f
clings m ore tig h tly near the base o f the tongue, so it may
p ro p e r p re p a ra tio n techniques.
be necessary to use a paring kn ife to remove the rem ain ing skin fro m the base and underside o f the tongue.
liv e r
Once peeled, tongue can be used in a v a rie ty o f ways:
Prepare live r b e fo re coo kin g by rem o ving any silverskin ,
It can be cu t in to ju lie nn e o r dice and used as a garnish
to u g h m em branes, veins, and g ris tle . W hen su b je cte d to
f o r sauces, soups, o r pates. It m ay be sliced th in ly and
in te nse heat, silve rskin shrinks m ore ra p id ly tha n m eat,
served h o t o r cold, o r used as a liner fo r te rrin e molds.
m aking th e liv e r pu cker and cook unevenly.
m a rro w k id n e y s
M a rro w — the s o ft inner substance o f bones— is o fte n
The unique fla v o r o f kidneys w ill com e th ro u g h as long
used as a garnish f o r soups, sauces, and o th e r dishes.
as th e y are p e rfe c tly fre s h and p ro p e rly handled. Soak
C ertain bones, known as m a rro w bones, have a s ig n ifi
kidneys in sa lte d w a te r f o r 12 hours, the n rinse w e ll and
can t am ount o f m arro w th a t is re la tiv e ly easy to rem ove
soak in m ilk f o r a n o th e r 12 to 2 4 hours. Rinse th e k id
using th e fo llo w in g technique: Subm erge th e m arro w
neys, the n cu t the m in h a lf and rem ove all o f th e fa t and
bones in cold, sa lte d w a te r f o r a fe w hours to remove
veins. In some cases, recipes may in d ica te th a t th e k id
th e excess bloo d and im p u ritie s . A fte r th e y have soaked,
neys be blanched fir s t. Peel th e kidneys by pu llin g away
push th e m arro w o u t w ith your thum b.
th e m em brane covering them .
s w e e tb re a d s to n g u e
S w e etbre ad s are th e thym us gland o f veal. It is a s o ft-
Tongue is quite a tough muscle. This cut o f m eat may be
s tru c tu re d gland th a t can be cu t w ith a fo rk , when
sold w ith the skin or may be smoked. It is easier to remove
p ro p e rly prepared. This p a rtic u la r o ffa l is considered a
the skin fro m the cooked sm oked tongue. G ently sim m er
de lica cy and w a rra n ts a high cost.
Tongue
390
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Marrow
c r i—*• n
p r+ i—*•
P
Orq n>
p
Sweetbreads need to be thoroughly rinsed in cold water to remove all traces of blood. They are then blanched in a court bouillon, peeled, and pressed to give them a firmer, more appealing texture. The sweetbreads can then be pre pared a la meuniere (floured and sauteed). Sweetbreads are used to prepare terrines. 1 .
S w e etbre ad s need to be th o ro u g h ly rinsed in cold w a te r to rem ove all
tra ce s o f blood. Blanch th e m in enough c o u rt bo u illo n to cover.
2.
A fte r blanching th e sw e etbre ads, le t the m cool enough to handle easily.
Pull away the m em brane cove rin g th e m eat.
3.
R oll th e peeled lobes tig h tly in che ese cloth to give th e sw e e tb re a d s a
firm e r, m ore ap pe aling te x tu re . Place th e sw e etbre ads in a p e rfo ra te d h o te l pan (as shown), place w e ig h t on to p o f them , and press th e sw e e tb re a d s under re frig e ra tio n f o r several hours.
4.
The pressed sw e e tb re a d s should be firm , com pact, and able to be sliced
easily. The s w e e tb re a d s can be p re pa red a la m euniere (flo u re d and sauteed) or used in te rrin e s and o th e r pre p a ra tio n s.
Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H
391
FROM LEFTTO RIGHT: Grinder housing or grinder body, worm, blade, d iffe re n t size dies, collar.
Meats ground w ith d iffe re n t-size dies FROM LEFTTO RIGHT: Meats ground w ith a coarse die, medium die, and fine die.
Grinding meat Grinding meat calls for scrupulous attention to safe food handling practices (see page 31). This fabrication technique applies to poultry and fish as well as meats. Observe the following procedures for best results: » Unplug th e g rin d e r b e fo re asse m bling o r disassem bling. » Clean th e g rin d e r w e ll and p u t it to g e th e r c o rre c tly . M ake sure th a t the blade is s ittin g flu s h ag ainst th e die. In th is p o s itio n , th e blade cuts the fo o d neatly, ra th e r than te a rin g or sh re d d in g it. » Cut th e m e a t in to dice o r s trip s th a t w ill f i t ea sily th ro u g h th e g rind er's fe e d tube. » C hill m ea ts th o ro u g h ly b e fo re g rind ing . C hill all g rin d e r p a rts th a t w ill come in c o n ta c t w ith th e fo o d by e ith e r re frig e ra tin g th e m or sub m erg ing the m in ice w ater. » Do n o t fo rc e th e m ea t th ro u g h th e fe e d tu b e w ith a tam per. If th e y are th e c o rre c t size, th e pieces w ill be drawn e a sily by th e worm . » Be sure th a t th e blade is sharp. M e a t should be cu t cleanly, never m angled or mashed, as it passes th ro u g h th e grinder. » For all b u t v e ry d e lic a te m ea ts (salm on o r o th e r fish , f o r exam ple), begin w ith a die w ith large openings. The m ea t w ill ap pe ar q u ite coarse. » G rind th ro u g h p ro g re s s iv e ly sm a lle r dies u n til th e de sire d co n siste n cy is achieved. » A fin a l pass th ro u g h a fin e die gives th e ground m ea t a m ore re fin e d te x tu re , and fu rth e r blends th e lean m ea t and fa t.
392
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
o u ltr y
,
a lw a y s
p o p u la r
a n d
readily a v a ila b le
,
is a m o n g
the
le a s t c o stly meats
used
for
E N T R E E S A N D O T H E R M E N U I T E M S . F A B R I C A T I O N T E C H N I Q U E S A R E D E M O N S T R A T E D H E R E ON A C H I C K E N , T H E B I R D M O S T C O M M O N L Y U S E D IN R E S T A U R A N T S . T H E S E T E C H N I Q U E S C A N B E A P P L I E D TO V I R T U A L L Y A L L PO U LT R Y T Y P E S , NOT O N L Y CHI CK E N BUT SQ UA B , DUCK, P H E AS A N T, T U R K E Y , AN D QUAIL, WITH S O M E M O D I F I C A T I O N F O R S I Z E ( S M A L L E R BI RDS R E Q U I R E M O R E D E LI C A T E , P R E C I S E CUTS; L A R G E R OR O L D E R B I R D S , A H E A V I E R B L A D E A N D G R E A T E R P R E S S U R E TO B R E A K T H R O U G H T O U G H J O I N T S A N D S I N E w ) .
poultry fabrication
fabricating poultry
P
The goose is ty p ic a lly la rge r than the duck o r chicken, b u t th e bone s tru c tu re is simitar. The d iffic u lty in fa b ric a tio n lies in th e fa c t th a t th e goose is v e ry fa tty , m aking th e d e fin itio n o f w here to cut a little challenging. The younger the bird, the easier it is to cut up. Young birds are usually much sm aller and th e ir bones have n o t com p le te ly hardened. The size and breed o f the b ird w ill also have som e bearing on how easy or d iffic u lt it is to fa b ric a te . Chickens are ge ne rally fa r sim p le r to cu t up, fo r exam ple, than are pheasant. The ten don s and ligam e nts in chicken are less w ell developed, exce pt in the case o f fre e -ra n g e birds, which move fre e ly ab ou t an enclosed pen or yard. When fa b ric a tin g , pay close a tte n tio n to fo o d s a fe ty reg ulation s. Some kitche ns use co lo r-co d e d c u ttin g boards to avoid cross c o n ta m in a tio n betw een m eat, p o u ltry , fish, and vegetables. Regardless o f th e m a te ria l th a t c u ttin g boards are made o f (wood or p lastic resin), th e y w ill rem ain sa n ita ry if p ro p e rly cleaned.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
393
Preparing a supreme A supreme is a semiboneless poultry breast half, usually from a chicken, pheasant, partridge, or duck, so named because it is the best (supreme) por tion. One wing joint, often frenched, is left attached to the breast meat.
If
the skin is removed from the supreme, it may be referred to as a cotelette. Supremes may be sauteed, poached, or grilled. To prepare a chicken supreme from a whole chicken by this technique, you must cut away the wing tip and remove the legs. The breast meat and the first joint of the wing are then cut away from the bird’s carcass. Reserve the carcass for stock or broth. 1 .
Use th e tip o f a boning k n ife to make a cu t th a t circles around th e sec
ond jo in t o f th e w ing bone. M ake sure to c u t th ro u g h th e web skin as well. Bend th e w ing bone at th e second jo in t to snap it. C ontinue to c u t th ro u g h th e jo in t u n til th e w ing tip and w ing fla p are rem oved, leaving th e d ru m e tte a tta ch e d to th e breast.
2.
Cut th ro u g h the skin betw een th e th ig h and the breast.
3.
Bend th e leg backw ard, away fro m the body, to expose th e ba ll socket.
M ake a cu t th a t runs along th e backbone to th e ball and socket, as shown. Hold th e chicken sta b le w ith th e heel o f you r kn ife , and pu ll th e leg away fro m the body firm ly and evenly. This w ill rem ove th e leg and th e o y s te r cleanly fro m the backbone s tru c tu re . Repeat on th e o th e r side.
4.
W ith th e b re a s t fa c in g up, cu t along e ith e r side o f the keel bone w ith a
kn ife . Use your g u id in g hand to s te a d y th e bird.
394
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
4
fabricating poultry
5.
Remove th e b re a s t m ea t fro m
th e rib cage w ith d e lic a te cuts. Use the tip o f th e k n ife to fre e th e m eat fro m th e bones, running th e t ip along th e bones f o r th e b e s t yield.
6 .
Trim excess skin away fro m the
breast, m aking sure to keep enough skin in ta c t to cover the chicken breast.
7.
Use the blade to scrape the
m eat o f f th e rem a ining w ing bone to expose th e bone co m p le te ly. This is known as fre n ch in g th e bone. It is not a b s o lu te ly necessary to fre n c h the bone o f a suprem e.
8 .
The suprem e on th e le ft does
n o t have a fre n ch e d bone w h ile the
8
suprem e on th e rig h t does have the excess m ea t rem oved.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FIS H
395
2
Trussing poultry The object of trussing or tying any bird is to give it a smooth, compact shape so that it will cook evenly and retain moisture. Several different methods for trussing poultry exist, some involving trussing needles, some requiring only string. One simple way of tying with string is shown here. 1.
Cut away th e w ing tip and w ing fla p . Pass the m id dle o f a piece o f s trin g
u n derneath th e jo in ts a t th e end o f th e d ru m sticks, and cross th e ends o f the s trin g to make an X. Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g down to w a rd th e ta il to loop th e s trin g around the jo in ts .
2 .
Pull bo th ends o f th e s trin g tig h tly across the jo in t th a t connects the
d ru m s tic k and th e th ig h and con tinu e to pull th e s trin g along th e body to w a rd th e bird's back, ca tch in g th e w ing u n derneath the string .
3.
Flip the bird over and pu ll th e s trin g tig h t. M ake an X across th e w ings to
hold the m tig h tly against the bird.
396
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
3
fabricating poultry 5
4.
Pull th e ends o f th e s trin g un derneath th e backbone a t th e neck opening.
Tie the tw o ends o f th e s trin g w ith a secure knot.
5 .
The fr o n t and re a rv ie w s o f a p ro p e rly tru s s e d bird.
ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH
397
Halving and quartering poultry Chicken and other birds may be halved or quartered before or after cook ing. Smaller birds, such as Cornish game hens and broiler chickens that are to be grilled are often halved. These birds are small enough to cook through completely before the skin becomes scorched or charred. If the bones are left intact during grilling, they provide some protection against shrinkage. In many restaurants, the ducks needed for an evening’s service will be roasted in advance, then halved and partially deboned; then at service it is necessary only to reheat the duck and crisp the skin in a hot oven. 1 .
Cut fro m th e ta il to th e neck opening down e ith e r side o f th e backbone.
Pull upw ard s lig h tly w hile c u ttin g down, e x e rtin g enough pressure to cut th ro u g h th e rib bones.
2.
Lay o u t th e w hole bre ast, w ith th e bones fa cin g up. Use th e tip o f a bon
ing k n ife to cu t th ro u g h the w h ite c a rtila g e a t th e ve ry to p o f th e keel bone.
398
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating poultry
3.
Open th e b re a s t like a book. This bending a ctio n w ill expose th e keel
bone. Grab th e keel bone fir m ly and pull it and th e a tta ch e d c a rtila g e away fro m th e b re a s t m eat. The c a rtila g e may break away fro m th e keel bone. Be sure to rem ove th e e n tire s tru c tu re .
4.
Cut th e chicken in to halves by m aking a cu t down th e c e n te r o f th e bird.
5 .
S ep ara te th e leg and th ig h fro m th e b re a s t and w ing by c u ttin g th ro u g h
th e skin ju s t above w here th e b re a s t and th ig h m eet.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
399
3
Disjointing a rabbit The technique for disjointing a rabbit is similar to that for a chicken. Rabbit is a relatively lean, mildly flavored meat. The loin and rib sections are leaner than the legs, in much the same way that chicken breast is leaner than the legs. By removing the legs and shoulder, you can apply two different cook ing methods to one rabbit—moist heat for the legs, dry heat for the loin—to achieve the most satisfactory results. 1 .
Spread open th e be lly c a v ity o f th e ra b b it and pull o u t th e kidneys and
liver. Sever any m em brane a tta c h in g th e liv e r to th e cavity. Reserve th e live r fo r an o th e r use, if desired.
2.
Remove th e hind legs by c u ttin g th ro u g h th e jo in t and the n th ro u g h the
m eat to sep ara te th e hind leg fro m th e loin.
3.
To sep ara te th e fr o n t legs and sho ulder fro m th e re s t o f th e body, pull
th e leg away fro m the body and cut th ro u g h th e jo in t.
400
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
fabricating rabbit 5
4.
Cut away the hind and f r o n t p o rtio n s o f th e loin to produce th e saddle.
5 .
A fu lly d is jo in te d ra b b it is shown here, includ in g th e hind legs (top), sad
dle, liver, kidneys, and fo re le g /s h o u ld e r sections.
ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
401
M
uch
of
the
fish
pu r c h a sed
by
c h e fs
is
filleted
either
by
han d
or
w ith
specialized
FIL LE TI N G M A CH IN E S . T H E S E FISH F IL L ET S HA V E B E C O M E SO C O M M O N P L A C E THAT W H O L E FISH A RE O F T E N M O R E D I F FI C U L T A N D E X P E N S I V E F OR T H E A V E R A G E C O M M E R C I A L F O O D S E L L E R TO OBTAIN A N D T R A N S P O R T TO T H E L O C A L R E S T A U R A N T O R R E T A I L O P E R A T I O N . W H E N P U R C H A S I N G S E A F O O D F O R A R E S T A U R A N T , W H O L E S A L E S E A F O O D S E L L E R S A R E M U C H B E T T E R E Q . U I P P E D TO H A N D L E W H O L E F I S H A N D U N D E R S T A N D I TS Q . U A L I T Y .
fish fabrication M o s t fis h fa ll in to one o f tw o categories: round o r fla t. Time, pra ctice, and experience w ill help de te rm in e w hich o f a num ber o f techniques to use to fa b ric a te a p a rtic u la r fish . D if fe re n t m ethods can achieve v irtu a lly the same resu lts, and th e m ethods shown here are n o t always the only way to proceed. The re a lity is th a t f ille tin g fis h is a messy process th a t take s tim e , space, and skill, b u t freshn ess in d ica to rs such as clear eyes, aroma, b rig h t gills, and firm n e ss o f th e fle sh cannot be evaluated if th e fis h is n o t whole. A long w ith evalua tio n o f th e q u a lity and freshness, it is much easier to d e te rm in e the species by lo okin g a t a w hole fis h as opposed to fille ts , w ith th e added advantage th a t th e le fto v e r bones can be used to make valuable fis h stock. The basic procedure f o r scaling— th e f ir s t ste p in p re pa ring the fis h b e fo re any fu rth e r fa b ric a tio n is done— applies to all typ e s o f fish. M etho ds d iffe r slig h tly, however, fo r g u t tin g round fis h and f la t fish. S im ilarly, the tech niq ue fo r fille tin g a round fis h is d iffe re n t fro m th a t used fo r a f la t fish. In d e te rm in in g how to fa b ric a te a fis h , know ledge o f th a t p a r tic u la r fish's sp e c ific p ro p e rtie s is im p o rta n t (see C hapter 7, Fish and S he llfish Id e n tific a tion ). O th er seafood, including crustaceans (lo bster, shrim p, crayfish , and crab), m ollusks (clams, oysters, and mussels), and cephalopods (squid and octo pus) also m ust be ca re fu lly handled to m aintain q u a lity and wholesom eness.
402
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
c r n
p
>—*• P
QTQ C/3
13-
Scaling and trim m ing fish
Gutting round fish
Most fish—though not all—have
Fish viscera (guts) are typically re
scales that must be removed as a first
moved soon after the fish is taken
step in fabrication. The best way to
from the water, right on the fishing
remove scales is with a fish scaler;
boat. The enzymes in the viscera
but other tools (such as the dull side
can begin to break down the flesh
of a knife, a table crumber, a spoon
rapidly, leading to spoilage. If a fish
handle) can be used if a scaler is not
has not been gutted, this step should
available. The fins and tails can be
be performed right after it has been
cut away at this point, or later when
scaled.
the fish is gutted. To scale a fish, work from the
To gut a round fish, make a slit in the fish’s belly and pull out the
tail toward the head, gripping the
guts. Rinse the belly cavity thorough
fish by the tail, and allow water to
ly under cold running water to re
flow over the fish to help keep the
move all traces of viscera and blood.
scales from flying around. Do not pinch the fish too tightly as this could bruise the flesh.
ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
403
Filleting round fish: straight-cut method Fillets are one of the most common fabrications for fish. These boneless and (usually) skinless fish pieces can be sauteed, grilled, baked, formed into paupiettes, or cut into tranches or goujonettes. Round fish are fabricated into two fillets, one from each side of the fish. There are two techniques for filleting a round fish. The first technique is used on soft-boned, round fish like the salmon and trout family and Spanish mack erel. The name of the technique for soft-boned round fish is the straight-cut method. The second, for use on hard-boned round fish, is called the up and over technique.
1.
Lay th e fis h on a c u ttin g board w ith the backbone p a rallel to th e w o rk
surface and th e head on th e same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Using a fille tin g knife , cut behind th e head and g ill plates. Angle th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g m o tio n is down and away fro m th e body. This does n o t cu t th e head o f the fis h away fro m th e body.
2.
W ith o u t rem o ving th e kn ife , tu rn it so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is p o in tin g
to w a rd th e ta il o f th e fis h . P o sitio n th e k n ife so th a t th e handle is lo w er than th e tip o f th e blade. This w ill im prove the yie ld by keeping th e knife 's edge aim ed a t the bones, ra th e r than th e fle sh . Run the blade down th e length o f the fish , c u ttin g a g ainst the backbone. Avoid saw ing th e blade back and fo rth .
3.
By c u ttin g evenly and sm oo th ly, you w ill s p lit the ta il, as shown. Lay the
f ille t skin side down on th e w o rk surface o r in a h o te l pan.
404
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
3
P c r i— *• n
p 2 QTQ CA
4.
Turn th e fis h over and re p e a t th e previous step s to rem ove th e second
fille t.
5 .
Remove th e be lly bones by m aking sm oo th stro k e s ag ainst th e bones to
cut the m away cleanly. If necessary, cu t away th e rem n an ts o f th e backbone by running th e blade ju s t un derneath th e line o f th e backbone.
6 .
To rem ove th e skin, lay th e f ille t p a rallel to the edge o f the c u ttin g su r
face. Hold th e k n ife so th a t th e c u ttin g edge is ag ainst th e skin; pu ll th e skin ta u t w ith you r g u id ing hand as you cu t th e f ille t free.
7.
Lo cate th e pin bones by running a fin g e rtip over th e fille t. Use needle-
nose p lie rs o r tw e e ze rs to pull o u t th e bones. Pull the m o u t in th e d ire c tio n o f the head o f th e f ille t (w ith th e grain) to avoid rip p in g th e flesh .
7
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S . POULTRY, A N D FISH
405
Up and over technique fo r round fish The up and over technique may be used only on hard-boned round fish. A filet knife with a flexible blade should be used for this technique. 1.
Lay th e fis h on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e b e lly away fro m you and the
head to w a rd your dom inant, c u ttin g hand. C ut th ro u g h th e belly, under the p e c to ra l fin , and around th e g ill plate, m aking sure to g e t in to th e head.
2.
Score th ro u g h the skin fro m th e head to ta il using one long s troke.
Continue m aking long, s tra ig h t stro k e s along th e back u n til you reach the ce n te r bone.
3.
Flex y ou r k n ife up and over th e c e n te r bone, c u ttin g th ro u g h the pin
bones.
4.
Continue c u ttin g close to th e b e lly bones u n til the f ille t is fre e fro m the
carcass. S kinning is th e same as f o r th e s tra ig h t-c u t m etho d (see page 405).
406
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
c r
*-s
I—** n p
2
GTQ
Eft
C/3
Gutting fla t fish Fish are typically gutted before they are shipped to market. If a fish has not been gutted, this step should be performed immediately after scaling. 1 .
To g u t a f la t fish , cu t around th e head, m aking a V -shaped notch.
2.
Pull th e head away fro m th e body w h ile tw is tin g it s lig h tly . The g u ts w ill
come away w ith th e head. Rinse th e be lly c a v ity th o ro u g h ly under cold running w a te r to rem ove all tra c e s o f visce ra and blood.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
407
1
Filleting fla t fish: making full fille ts Flat fish can be fabricated into two fillets, one from the top and one from the bottom of the fish. 1.
To make tw o fille ts fro m a f la t fish , use a fille tin g k n ife to cut the fle s h
away fro m th e bones, s ta rtin g on an o u te r edge and w o rk in g fro m th e ta il to w a rd th e head.
2.
A d ju s t th e d ire c tio n and le ng th o f you r stro k e s to go over th e rid ge o f
bones in th e c e n te r o f th e fille t. Hold th e f ille t up and away fro m th e bones as you w o rk to see th e bone s tru c tu re . Continue c u ttin g to th e o th e r edge and rem ove th e to p f ille t in a single piece. Repeat on th e o th e r side.
408
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Making four (or quarter) fille ts of fla t fish Flat fish can be fabricated into four fillets by removing the fillet from each side of the backbone on the top and again on the bottom. 1.
P o sitio n th e fis h w ith th e head fa cin g to w a rd you. Cut to one side o f the
ce n te r ridge.
2.
M ake cuts along th e bones, w o rk in g fro m the ce n te r to th e edge.
3.
A fte r th e f ille t is rem oved, you can see th e roe sack and th e b e lly p o rtio n .
These should be trim m e d away fro m the f ille t as p a rt o f its p re p a ra tio n fo r cooking.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
409
Cutting fish into steaks Fish steaks are simply crosscuts of the fish, and are relatively easy to cut. The fish is scaled, gutted, and trimmed of its fins and gills. Steaks can be of virtu ally any thickness. Dames, a French term, are thick steaks. There are few flat fish large enough to cut into steaks; however, round fish like salmon are gen erally fabricated in this fashion. Starting with a scaled, gutted, and trimmed fish (in this case salmon), use a chef’s knife to make crosswise cuts through the fish to yield steaks of the desired size. Pan-dressed fish are smaller, dressed fish that are usually not cut into steaks and are served whole.
410
MEATS. POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH
fabricating fish
Tranche
Paupiette
Goujonette
A tranche is simply a slice of the
A paupiette is a rolled thin fillet,
The name for this cut is derived from
fillet. It is cut by holding the knife
often—but not necessarily—filled
the French name for a small fish,
at an angle while cutting to expose
with a forcemeat or other stuffing.
the goujon. Goujonettes are small
more surface area and give the piece
Properly prepared, it resembles a
strips cut from a fillet; they are of
of fish a larger appearance. A tranche
large cork. Paupiettes are generally
ten breaded or dipped in batter and
can be cut from any relatively large
made from lean fish such as flounder
deep-fried. This cut has about the
fillet of fish—for example, salmon or
or sole, although they may also be
same dimensions as an adult’s index
halibut. Though this cut is normally
made from some moderately fatty
finger. Goujonettes are normally cut
associated with sauteed or pan-fried
fish such as trout or salmon. The
from lean white fish such as sole or
dishes, a tranche is often grilled or
most common preparation technique
flounder.
broiled.
for paupiettes is shallow poaching.
Using a very sharp slicer, slice across the fish at approximately a
Make even, finger-size cuts from the prepared fillet by cutting at an angle across the grain of the flesh.
45-degree angle. The greater the angle of the knife, the more surface area will be exposed.
Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S. POULTRY. A N D FISH
4 11
2 Dover sole Dover sole is handled in a special way. Many chefs like to skin the fish before filleting it. The skin is freed from the tail with a filleting knife, then simply pulled away. 1 .
Cut away th e fin s w ith kitche n scissors.
2 .
M ake an in itia l cu t to fre e th e skin fro m the fle s h o f th e ta il. Hold th e ta il
firm ly and pull the skin away b e fo re fille tin g .
412
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
crustaceans
, w i t h j o i n t e d s k e l e t o n s ON T H E
E X T E R I O R OF T H E I R BODI ES; M O LLUSK S, WI TH A S I N G L E ( U N I V A L V E ) OR A H I N G E D ( B I V A L V E ) S H E L L ; A N D CEPHALOPODS, WI TH T E N T A C L E S . L O B S T E R , S H R I M P , C R A Y F I S H , A N D C R A B A R E A L L C R U S T A C E A N S ; M O L L U S K S INCLUDE CLAMS, OYSTERS, AND MUSSELS; SQUID AND OCTOPUS ARE CEP H A LO P O D S .T H E Y ARE A L L PREPARED BEFORE COOKING USING A VARIETY OF FABRICATION TECHNIQUES.
shellfish fabrication
fabricating shellfish
The m ain s h e l l f i s h c a t e g o r i e s a r e a s f o l l o w s :
Working with live lobster Lobster is best when purchased alive. The first step in preparing a lobster to boil or steam is to kill it. Lobsters can also be split before they are broiled or baked. 1.
Leave th e bands on th e lo b
ster's claws and lay it, stom ach side down, on a w o rk surface. In se rt the tip o f a chef's k n ife in to the base o f the head. Pull th e k n ife all th e way down th ro u g h th e shell, s p littin g the head in half.
2.
S p lit th e ta il by re ve rsin g th e d i
re c tio n o f th e lo b s te r and p o s itio n in g th e tip o f th e k n ife a t th e p o in t w here you made you r in itia l cut. Then cut th ro u g h th e shell o f th e ta il section.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
413
■
1
2
Cooked lobster The flesh of a lobster or other crustacean adheres tightly to the shell until it has been cooked. Lobster that will be served out of the shell or used in salads, stuffings, or as a garnish can be cooked whole by steaming, grilling, or deep poaching. Once the lobster is cool enough to handle, the meat can be re moved from the shell easily. The edible meat can be removed from a lobster, as shown, to produce a large tail portion and intact claw sections as well as smaller pieces from the knuckles and legs. The lobster’s tomalley (liver) and coral (eggs; only in fe males) are removed and used as ingredients in stuffing, sauce, or butter. 1.
Hold th e ta il sectio n secu rely in one hand and hold th e body o f th e lo b
s te r w ith th e other. T w ist your hands in o p p o s ite d ire ctio n s, p u llin g th e ta il away fro m th e body.
2.
Use scisso rs to cut down bo th sides o f the underside o f the lo b s te r ta il.
Pull the ta il m ea t o u t o f th e shell. It should come away in one piece.
414
M EATS, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating shellfish
D.
Use th e heel o r back o f a c h e fs k n ife to crack th e claws.
4.
Use you r fin g e rs to p ry th e shell aw ay fro m th e m eat. The claw m eat
should also com e o u t in a single piece, re ta in in g th e shape o f th e claw.
5.
Use th e k n ife to cu t th ro u g h th e knuckles. Pull o u t th e knuckle m eat.
Chapter 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M E A T S , POULTRY, A N D FISH
415
Shrimp To clean shrimp, remove the shell and the vein that runs along the back of the shrimp either before or after cooking. Shrimp that have been boiled or steamed in the shell are moister and plumper than shrimp that were peeled and deveined before cooking. Shrimp that will be served cold—in appetizers or salads, for example—can be cooked in the shell. Shrimp dishes that are sauteed or grilled usually call for the shrimp to be peeled and deveined before cooking. The shells can be reserved for other uses, such as making shrimp stock, bisque, or shellfish butters. 1.
To devein a shrim p, lay th e shelled shrim p on a w o rk surface, w ith the
curved o u te r edge on the same side as you r c u ttin g hand. Slice in to the shrim p w ith a parin g or u tility kn ife ; make a shallow cu t f o r deveining o r a deeper cu t f o r b u tte r f lying th e shrim p.
2.
Use th e t ip o f th e k n ife to scrape o u t th e "vein" (in te s tin a l tra c t).
3.
As an a lte rn a tiv e , to rem ove th e vein w ith o u t c u ttin g th e shrim p, hook it
w ith a to o th p ic k o r skew er and pu ll it o u t com p le te ly.
416
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating shellfish
Cleaning soft-shell crab A seasonal favorite, soft-shell crabs are considered a great delicacy. They are not especially difficult to clean once their various parts are identified. Soft-shell crabs are commonly prepared by sauteing or pan-frying, and the shell may be eaten along with the meat. 1 .
Peel back th e p o in te d shell and scrape away the g ill fila m e n ts on each
side.
2 .
Cut the eyes and m outh away fro m the head ju s t behind the eyes, and
squeeze g e n tly to fo rc e o u t the green bubble, which has an unpleasant flavor.
3.
Bend back th e ta il fla p (or apron) and pu ll w ith a s lig h t tw is tin g m otion.
The in te s tin a l vein is drawn o u t o f th e body a t th e same tim e .
4.
The cleaned crab w ith th e ta il fla p , head, and g ill fila m e n ts removed.
4
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
417
Crayfish
Oysters Open oysters by prying open the hinge holding the two shells together. When
Crayfish share many similarities with
opening oysters (and clams), be sure to reserve any juices, which are some
lobster, but they are much smaller. If
times referred to as liquor. The liquor adds great flavor to soups, stews, and
live, pick through them and discard
stocks.
any dead ones. (They can also be pur chased frozen whole, or as just tails.)
1.
W ear a w ire mesh glove to hold the oyster, po sitio n e d so th a t the hinged
side is fa cin g outw ard. W ork the tip o f an o y s te r kn ife in to the hinge holding the upper and low er shells to g e th e r and tw is t the kn ife to break open th e hinge.
2.
It is relatively simple to remove the vein from the crayfish before cook ing, though this may be done after ward, if preferred.
Once open, slide the k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to release the
o y s te r fro m the shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e o y s te r fro m the b o tto m shell.
Crayfish may be boiled or steamed in the shell. They can be served as is, whole, or they can be peeled after cooking to pick out the tail meat.
418
M EAT S. POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
fabricating shellfish
Clams
Mussels
Wear a wire mesh glove to protect the hand holding the clam. Work the side
Mussels are rarely served raw, but
of a clam knife into the seam between the upper and lower shells.
the method for cleaning them before
1.
steaming and poaching is similar to Place th e clam in your hand so th a t the hinged side is to w a rd th e heel o f
that used for clams. Unlike clams
your hand. The fin g e rs o f you r gloved hand can be used to bo th help guide the
and oysters, mussels often have a
k n ife and give it e xtra fo rc e . T w ist th e blade s lig h tly , like a key in a lock, to
dark, shaggy beard. It is normally
p ry open th e shell.
removed before cooking.
2 .
shell. Removing the beard kills the
Pull the beard away from the Once th e shell is open, slide th e k n ife over th e inside o f th e to p shell to
release the clam fro m th e shell. M ake a s im ila r s tro k e to release th e clam fro m
mussel, so perform this step as close
th e b o tto m shell.
to service as possible.
c h a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
419
Cleaning squid Octopus and squid belong to a category of shellfish known as cephalopods. They must be properly cleaned and cut to make the most of their flavor and texture in any cooked dish. Small squid and octopi are tender and moist when properly handled, even when cooked quickly and at high temperatures. Larger ones are better prepared by braising or stewing. The squid mantle can be cut into rings to saute, pan fry, or deep fry; or the squid may be left whole to grill or braise, with or without a stuffing. If desired, the ink sac can be saved and used to prepare various dishes, which will turn a dramatic black color. 1.
Pull the mantle and the tentacles apart. The eye, ink sac, and intestines w ill
come away w ith the tentacles.
2.
Pull th e tra n s p a re n t q u ill fro m th e m an tle and discard.
3.
Pull away as much o f th e skin as po ssib le fro m th e m antle. D iscard the
skin.
420
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
cleaning octopus and squid
3
4.
4
5
Cut th e te n ta c le s away fro m th e head by m aking a cut ju s t be lo w the eye.
If desired, reserve th e ink sac. D iscard th e re s t o f the head.
D.
Open the te n ta c le s to expose th e beak. Pull it away and discard. The te n
ta cle s may be le ft w hole if th e y are sm all or cu t in to pieces if th e y are large. Once th e squid is cleaned, rinse it in cold w ater.
ch a p te r 16 » F A B R IC A T IN G M EAT S, POULTRY, A N D FISH
421
Cleaning octopus Octopus is typically sold already cleaned. However, you may occasionally need to remove the viscera and beak (sometimes known as the eye). If the octopus you purchase has already been cleaned, simply cut the head away from the legs, and cut each piece into the appropriate size. Baby octopi are typically cooked whole. 1.
Use a pa rin g k n ife to cu t around the “eye" (beak) and l i f t it fro m the
octopus.
2.
Peel th e skin away fro m th e body by p u llin g firm ly .
3.
Pull the su ctio n cups away fro m the te n ta c le s if desired. The octo p u s is
ready to use.
422
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
roasting Some cooking methods rely on dry heat without fats or oils. The food is cooked either by a direct application of radiant heat (grilling and broiling) or by indirect heat in an oven (roasting and baking). The result of these cooking methods is a highly flavored exterior and a moist interior.
G
rilling
a n d
broiling
size or s m a l l e r
a re
quick
pieces of m eat
,
cooking
p o u ltr y
,
tec h n iq u es or fish
.
By
u sed
for
c o n tra st
,
n a t u r a lly
ten d er
roasting and
a lo n g e r c o o king tim e an d a r e f r e q u e n t l y u sed w ith la r g e r cuts of m eat
,w
baking
portion
-
require
h o le birds
,
and
D R E S S E D FISH.
grilling, broiling, and roasting G rillin g cooks fo o d w ith rad ia nt heat fro m a source lo cated below it. Some o f th e ju ices are reduced d ire c tly on the fo o d w hile th e re s t drip away. G rilled fo o d s have a s lig h tly sm oky flavo r, re s u ltin g fro m th e ju ices and fa ts th a t are rendered and lig h tly charred as th e foo d cooks, as w ell as fro m d ire c t co n ta ct w ith th e rods o f the g rill rack. B ro ilin g is sim ila r to g rillin g b u t uses a heat source lo cated above th e fo o d ra th e r than below it. The sauce th a t accom panies a g rille d o r b ro ile d ite m is prepared separately. Tender p o rtio n -s iz e cuts o f p o u ltry, cuts o f m eat fro m the loin, rib, o r to p round, and fille ts o f such f a t ty fis h as tuna, sw o rdfish , and salm on are su ite d to g rillin g and broiling. Lean fis h or w hole sm all fis h such as Dover sole or sm all flo u n d e rs may also be g rille d or b ro ile d i f th e y are coated w ith oil or an oil-based m arinade and cooked in a hinged hand g rill to pre ven t them fro m bre aking a p a rt durin g th e cooking process. D elicate fo o d s like lean w h ite fis h are brushed w ith b u tte r o r oil, put on a heated, oiled sizzler p la tte r, and placed on the rack below th e b ro ile r's heat source. Some le ss-te n d e r cuts o f m eat, such as hanger or fla n k steak, may also be used if the y are cut very thin. When p re pa ring fo o d s fo r g rillin g o r broiling, all m ea t and fis h should be o f an even thickness. Cut to an even thickn ess and pound lig h tly if necessary to fu rth e r even th ic k ness. Very th ic k cuts o f m eat or fis h may also be b u tte r f lied so th a t the ite m may be cooked fro m s ta rt to fin is h on the g rill or in the broiler. M ea t should be trim m e d o f excess fa t and all silverskin and g ris tle . Some fo o d s are cu t in to strip s , chunks, o r cubes and the n th re a d ed on to skewers. The fo o d its e lf should be seasoned and in some cases, lig h tly oiled. D iffe re n t p a rts o f th e g rill or b ro ile r are h o tte r than others. D ivide th e g rill in to zones o f varying heat in te n s ity , including a ve ry h o t sectio n fo r q u ickly searing fo o d s and cooking them to a rare doneness, an area o f m od era te heat fo r cooking fo o d s to a m edium -rare or m edium doneness, and an area o f low heat fo r slow cooking to a m edium -w ell or well. Low heat can also be used to keep fo o d s warm . (If the g rill is w ood- or ch a rco a l-fire d , set aside an area f o r ig n itin g the fue l; th is p a rt is to o h o t and sm oky to use to cook fo o d s d irectly.) Zones may also be a lloca ted fo r d iffe re n t typ e s o f foo ds, to pre ven t an undesirable tra n s fe r o f fla v o rs . D eveloping a system fo r placing fo o d s on the g rill or in th e broiler, w h e th e r by fo o d ty p e or by range o f doneness, helps speed up w o rk on th e line. W oods such as m esquite, hickory, o r apple are fre q u e n tly used to im p a rt special f la vors. H ardw ood chips, herb stem s, grapevine trim m in g s, and o th e r aro m atics can be put in a sm oker box (a s te e l box w ith holes) or w rapped in alum inum fo il w hich should be punc tu re d w ith a fe w holes. E ith e r o f these m ethods w ill allow th e sm oke to perm ea te th e g rill w ith o u t allow in g th e aro m atics to ignite. G rills and b ro ile rs m ust be w ell m aintained and kep t clean to produce a g o o d -q u a lity g rille d or broiled entree. Take the tim e to prepare the g rill before, during, and a fte r service. 424
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Grilling or Broiling
Seasonings, including salt and
(1 en tree portion)
pepper or marinades, rubs, glazes, or barbecue sauce, if desired
1 portion
(6
to
8
oz/170 to 227
Other accompaniments, including compound butters, brown sauces, vegetable coulis, or salsas
g) meat, poultry, or seafood
'I
method at-a-glance
grilling and broiling
Q basic formula
expert tips
Thoroughly clean and preheat the g rill or broiler. Season the g rill with a light coating o f oil.
To season the main ingredient, there aremanyoptions. Apply each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking.
Season the main item and marinate or brush it w ith oil if necessary to prevent sticking.
M A R IN A D E S (E x c e s s m a r in a d e s h o u ld be w ip e d o f f t h e it e m b e f o r e g r illin g t o p r e v e n t f la r e u p s ) SPIC E R UBS / PRESALTING (M a s s a g e t h e s a lt o r ru b in to t h e it e m . A llo w i t t o s e t o v e r n ig h t a n d t h e n r in s e a n d t h o r o u g h ly d r y b e f o r e g r il lin g )
4. Place the main item on the
To add additional flavor,
g rill or broiler rods; use a hand g rill fo r delicate foods such as fish.
add items to the grill fire to create an
aromatic smoke, such as: H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S
Turn the item 90 degrees to produce crosshatch marks, if desired. 6. Turn the item to complete cooking to the desired doneness. A
Chapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
425
1. turn on the grill
or b ro ile r in advance
and allow th e heat to burn away old p a rtic u la te s fro m the rods. Once any p a rtic u la te s have tu rn e d to w h ite ash, the y may be brushed away w ith a w ire brush or w iped away w ith a w e t cloth. W hen cleaning th e g rill w ith a clo th dipped in oil be ca re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill cre ate excess sm oke and fla re -u p . Clean and o il m etal skew ers b e fo re use; soak wooden skew ers in w a te r to prevent the m fro m cha rring to o much o r catch ing on fire . Hand racks f o r d e lica te fo o d s or th o se th a t m ig h t be aw kw ard to tu rn easily should also be cleaned and oiled between uses to pre ve n t m ea t skin fro m s tic k in g and tearing. S izzler p la tte rs , ton gs, o ffs e t spatulas, fle x ib le sp a tu las, and brushes to ap ply glazes, m arinade, or barbecue sauces should be p a rt o f th e g rill sta tio n 's eq uipm en t m ise en place, as w e ll as all ite m s necessary fo r service (heated plates, spoons, o r ladles). It is necessary to keep th e rods clean during cooking. A g rill brush should be on hand along w ith a damp to w e l fo r w ipin g th e rods. If a fo o d is m arinate d in an oil-based m a ri nade, excess o il should be drained o f f p rio r to g rillin g to pre ve n t fla re -u p s. A ny fla re -u p w ill im p a rt an undesirable fla v o r and p o or appearance to th e fo o d being cooked.
2. let the food cook undisturbed on th e f ir s t side b e fo re tu rn in g it over. This develops b e t te r fla v o r and also le ts th e fo o d ’s n a tural fa ts ( if any) help release th e fo o d fro m th e g rill w ith o u t tea ring . Place the seasoned fo o d on the pre he ated g rill or b ro ile r rods to s ta rt coo kin g and to m ark it. The b e tte rlo o kin g (p re s e n ta tio n ) side always goes down on th e g rill rods fir s t. W hen th e fo o d comes in to c o n ta c t w ith the heated g rill rods, m arks are charred on to th e surface o f th e fo o d . To m ark fo o d s w ith a crossh atch on a g rill, g e n tly w o rk th e spa tula o r to n g s under th e fo o d , lift , and give it a q u a rte r-tu rn (90 degrees). This is o fte n re fe rre d to as th e ‘1 0 :0 0 / 2 :0 0 ’' m arking m ethod, alluding to how tho se tim e s are placed on a clo ck's face. Because m any barbecue sauces con tain sugar and burn easily, it is usually a good idea to p a rtia lly cook the fo o d b e fo re a p plying th e sauce. T hat way, as th e fo o d fin ish e s cooking, th e sauce glazes and caram elizes lig h tly w ith o u t burning. A single co a t o f sauce m ay be applied to each side o f th e fo o d , o r to build up a th icke r, s lig h tly cru s ty co a t o f sauce, th e fo o d m ay be brushed re p e a te d ly w ith lig h t coa ts o f sauce.
426
ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
grilling and broiling
3. turn the food over and con tinu e co o k ing to th e de sire d doneness. Since m o st fo o d s cooked by g rillin g o r b ro ilin g are re la tiv e ly th in and tender, th e y do n o t req uire much m ore coo kin g tim e once th e y have been tu rn e d over. T h icke r cuts or th o se th a t m ust be cooked to a higher in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re m ay need to be moved to a coo le r p o rtio n o f th e g rill o r b ro ile r so th a t th e y don't develop a charred e xte rio r. (The b u tte r fly m ethod fo r fa b ric a tin g s m a lle r cuts o f m ea t o r fis h may be ap plicab le in th is case.) A n o th e r s o lu tio n is to rem ove th e th ic k e r cuts fro m th e g rill o r b ro ile r a fte r th e y are m arked on b o th sides and fin is h th e coo kin g in th e oven. For ban quets, fo o d s can be q u ickly m arked on th e rods o f a g rill or broiler, ju s t b a re ly c o o kin g th e o u te r layers o f th e fo o d . They can the n be laid o u t on racks over she et pans and fin is h e d in th e oven. This approach allow s you to expand th e p o te n tia l o u tp u t o f th e g rill or bro ile r. For fo o d s a fe ty reasons, exercise e xtre m e care in c h illin g p a rtia lly cooked fo o d q u ickly if it is to be held fo r any length o f tim e. Remove th e m ea t o r fis h when it is s till s lig h tly un d e r done, so it does n o t end up overcooked by th e tim e it is served. Even th in pieces o f m eat or fis h w ill re ta in some heat, a llow in g th e m to cook a fte r th e y have been rem oved fro m th e heat. P ro p e rly pre pa red g rille d and b ro ile d fo o d s have a d is tin c tly sm oky fla vo r, w hich is cre a te d by a lim ite d am ount o f c h a rrin g and enhanced by th e a d d itio n o f h a rd w ood o r herb sprigs to th e g rill. This sm oky fla v o r and arom a should n o t ove rpo w er th e fo o d 's na tural flavo r, and th e ch a rrin g should n o t be so exte nsive th a t it gives the fo o d a b itte r o r c arbonized ta s te . Any m arinades or glazes should s u p p o rt and n o t m ask th e fo o d ’s n a tural flavo r.
PAN GRILLING Pan grilling involves cooking foods on the
consider, however, that pan grilling will
stove over intense heat in a heavy cast-iron
not impart the same flavor as will tradi
or other warp-resistant metal pan with a
tional grilling. Grills and broilers must be
ridged interior bottom. The thick ridges create marks similar to a grill and hold
well maintained and kept clean to produce a good-quality grilled or broiled entree.
the food up and away from any juices or
Take the time to prepare the grill before,
fat that might collect. It is important to
during, and after service.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
427
The
fla v o r
a nd
a r o m a
of
a
fo o d
th a t
has
BEEN w e l l
r o a sted
c o n t r ib u t e
to
an
o v e r a ll
S E N S A T IO N O F F U L L F L A V O R , R IC H N E S S , A N D D E P T H . T h e CO LO R H A S A D IR E C T B E A R IN G ON T H E FL A V O R AS W E L L AS A P P E A R A N C E . F O O D S TH A T A R E TOO PALE LACK E Y E A P P E A L A N D D E P T H OF FLA V O R . W E L L R O A S T E D F O O D S A R E T E N D E R A N D M O I S T . T h E S K I N , I F L E F T O N T H E F O O D , S H O U L D BE C R I S P , C R E A T I N G A C O N T R A S T W IT H T H E T E X T U R E OF T H E MEAT.
roasting Roasting, w h ethe r by pan roasting, baking, sm oke-roasting, or poeleing, is a way o f cooking by in d ire c t heat in an oven. The te rm baking is o fte n used interchangeably w ith roasting; how ever, it is m ost ty p ic a lly used in relation to breads, cakes, pastries, and the like. S p it-ro a s tin g and ro tis s e rie cooking are m ore like g rillin g or bro iling . Cooking involves placing the fo o d on a rod, which is tu rn e d e ith e r m anually or w ith a m otor. The ra d ia n t heat given o f f by a fire or gas je t cooks the fo o d w hile co n sta n t tu rn in g creates a b a stin g e ffe c t and ensures th a t th e fo o d cooks evenly. R oasting is more sim ilar to baking than it is to s p it-ro a s tin g or ro tisse rie cooking. In an oven, roasted fo o d s are cooked through con tact w ith dry heated air held in a closed environ ment. As the o u te r layers become heated, the food's natural juices tu rn to steam and pen e tra te the fo o d more deeply. The rendered juices, also called pan drippings or fond, are the fou nda tion fo r sauces prepared w hile the roa st rests. S m o ke -ro a stin g is an a d a p ta tio n o f ro a stin g th a t allow s fo o d s to ta ke on a rich, sm oky flavo r. The fo o d cooks in a tig h tly closed en viro nm en t or in a sm oking setup. This can be done over an open fla m e or in the oven. R oasting com m only re fe rs to cooking large, n a tu ra lly tender, m u ltip o rtio n m eat cuts, whole p o u ltry, and dressed fish . Tender m eats fro m the rib, loin, and leg give th e be st re sults. Trim away any excess f a t and silverskin . A layer o f fa t o r p o u ltry skin helps to baste fo o d s n a tu ra lly as th e y roast. Season m eats, p o u ltry, and fis h b e fo re ro a stin g to fu lly de velop th e ir flavo r. For a d d itio n a l fla v o r during roasting, fre s h herbs or a ro m a tic vegetables may be used to s t u f f th e c a vity o f b irds or fis h or in se rte d under p o u ltry skin. A good ro a stin g pan has re la tiv e ly low sides to allow hot air to c ircu la te fre e ly . S elect a pan th a t holds the fo o d c o m fo rta b ly b u t is not so large th a t th e pan ju ice s scorch. Food to be roa ste d may be se t on a ro a stin g rack or elevated by aro m atics, which p e rm its the hot air to co n ta c t all o f the fo o d ’s surfaces. The pan should rem ain uncovered. The oven should be preheated. There are d iffe re n t techniques regard ing oven te m p e r atu re s fo r roa sting . Some ite m s are ro a ste d very qu ickly a t high te m p e ra tu re s. O thers are begun a t low te m p e ra tu re s, then fin ish e d a t a higher te m p e ra tu re . S till o th e rs are s ta rte d at a high te m p e ra tu re , then fin ish e d at a low er te m p e ra tu re . Roast large cuts such as prim e rib a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t roa sting . S ta rt sm aller or m ore de lica te fo o d s a t a low to m edium te m p e ra tu re (30 0° to 3 2 5 °F /1 4 9 ° to 163°C) and then brown the m a t th e very end o f ro a stin g by increasing th e oven to 3 5 0 ° to 3 7 5 ° F /1 7 7 ° to 191°C. You may need butcher's tw in e or skewers, as w ell as an in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r and a kitche n fo rk . Have an a d d itio n a l pan to hold the roa ste d fo o d w hile a sauce is made fro m the pan drippings. S tra in e rs and skim m ers or ladles are needed to prepare the sauce. Have a carving board and an e xtre m e ly sharp carving k n ife nearby fo r fin a l service.
428
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
roasting
Q
b a sic fo rm u la Roasting Meat, Poultry, or Seafood
l o z / 2 8 g Mirepoix (page
PAN GRAVY
2 4 3 ),p e r l l b / 4 5 4 g m e a t
Stock (fo rtifie d or regular)
(1 roast) Seasonings
Mirepoix or other
1 roast meat, poultry, or seafood trimm ed as desired, trussed or tied
aromatic vegetables
2 fl o z /6 0 mL prepared pan sauce, pan gravy, or other sauce
A thickener such as roux or pure
as appropriate per portion
starch slurry; in some cases, the pureed mirepoix may be used to thicken, and reduction is also
m eth o d at-a-glan ce
used to thicken pan sauces
ex p ert tips
j . Season, s tu ff, m arinate, bard, or lard th e main item , and sear it over d ire c t heat or in a h ot oven, i f desired. 2. Elevate th e ite m in a ro a stin g pan so th a t h o t air can reach all sides.
To develop additional flavo r and color,
sear the item
before roasting. Once the foods have been seasoned and tied or trussed, they may be seared in hot fa t on the stovetop, under a broiler, or in a very hot oven. Searing is an effective way to develop flavor and color in longer, slower cook ing methods.
3. R oast th e ite m uncovered u n til the desired in te rn a l
Basting is a technic|ue
te m p e ra tu re is reached. Be
food is lean and does not release enough fa t of its own for basting, any one of
sure to allow fo r carryover
the following may be used:
th a t both adds flavor and moisture. If the
cooking. M ELTED B U TTE R / OIL / M A R IN A D E S
4 . Add the m ire p o ix to the ro a stin g pan fo r pan gravy during th e fin a l h a lf hour o f ro a stin g tim e , i f desired. 5. L e t th e roa sted ite m re st b e fo re carving.
Pan sear items th a t are sma Her or have a smooth fia t sur face— such as a striploin. Oven sear items th a t have an irregular shape. Oven tem perature fo r searing should be set at 4 2 5 ° to 4 5 0 °/2 1 8 ° to 232°C
If roasts are drastically trim m ed , an alternative "skin" should be added in the form of a coating or crust. D iffe ren t ingredients may be
6 . Prepare the pan gravy in
combined with a small amount o f fa t and used to form this crust, such as:
th e ro a stin g pan. BARDING: T y in g t h in s h e e ts o f f a t b a c k , b a c o n , o r c a u l f a t a ro u n d a fo o d
7. Carve th e main ite m and serve it w ith th e
SEA S O N ED D RIED POTATO FLAK ES / RICE FLA K ES / C O R N FLA K E S /
a p p ro p ria te gravy or sauce.
C O R N M E A L / FIN E L Y G R O U N D D RIED M U S H R O O M S
Items may also beglazed
to add flavor. To do this, use a stock-
based or fruit-based liquid.
Foods such as whole birds , chicken breasts, and chops may be stuffed before roasting. Season the stuffing and chill it to below 4 0°F/4°C before combining it with raw meat, fish, or poultry. Allow enough tim e for the seasonings to interact with the food before roasting.
chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OA S TI NG
429
COOKING SLOW AND LOW: SMOKING AND BARBECUING These techniques continue to grow in pop
other ingredients that can bum easily.
ularity with diners and can be a profitable
Such sauces should be added at the end of
addition to a menu for any chef, presum
the cooking process or applied to the fin
ing they have the correct equipment and
ished product or served on the side.
use the proper techniques. SMOKING The technique of smoking cooks meat at a low temperature for a lengthy period of time, infusing it with flavor from the smoke and making it very tender by the end of the cooking process. Chefs can use tough cuts of meat for smoking, as the length of the cooking will break down the connec
» The type o f wood used during the smoking process will affect the final flavor o f the meat. It is important to remember that different types of wood will impart different flavors into the meat, and some woods may overpower certain cuts o f meat. Commonly used woods include mesquite, cherry, hickory, alder, pecan, and apple. » The correct spacing of the meat in the
tive tissues in the meat. Some cuts that are
smoker is crucial to even cooking. Be cer
ideal for smoking include beef brisket, pork
tain that there is enough space between
shoulder, and beef or pork ribs.
pieces o f meat so that air and smoke can circulate evenly around the meat as it
TIPS FOR SM OKING AND BARBECUING
cooks. » A smoke ring is a sign o f well-smoked
» Most recipes call for excess fat and gristle
meat. It is created by a buildup o f nitric
to be trimmed from meat prior to cooking.
acid on the surface o f the meat, which is
However, it is important not to remove too
then absorbed into the meat. After cooking,
much fat from cuts o f meat that are to be
a ring, slightly pink in color, can be found
used for smoking and barbecuing. The fat
just under the outer crust. It can range in
present (especially the fat cap on the sur
thickness, but it is generally desired to be
face o f the meat) will keep the meat moist
Va to 14 in/6 to 12 mm.
during cooking. If too much fat is trimmed from the meat, the meat will easily dry out
REGIONAL STYLE DIFFERENCES
over the length of cooking time required for
Smoking, barbecuing, and other slow-and-
these methods.
low cooking styles are popular throughout
» Dry rubs are ideal for this type of cooking, because they season the meat and provide excellent flavor without burning during cooking. Barbecue sauces and marinades, while flavorful, tend to contain sugar and
430
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
the world. Countries across Asia, Europe, and the Caribbean have a wide range of barbequing techniques as unique as the regions themselves. In North America, there are seven primary regional styles.
Texas: B eef and sausages. Known for a
the primary choice o f meat for barbecue,
thick, smokier sauce flavored with chiles
and sauces are thin and flavored
and spices such as cumin.
primarily with vinegar and ketchup or
St. Louis: Pork ribs. A mild tomato-based
another tomato product.
sauce. Not as thick as Kansas City-style,
South Carolina: Also pork, and sauces are
and not as spicy as Texas-style.
also thin and vinegar-based, but flavored
Memphis: Pork shoulder. Thin, tomato-
heavily with mustard and other spices.
based sauce that is often poured over ribs
Kansas City: Both beef and pork are
after cooking.
popular, and the sauces are thick, sweet,
Kentucky: Mutton. Known for its
and tomato-based.
distinctive “black” sauce, which is
roasting
North Carolina: Pork—the whole hog—is
flavored with bourbon, Worcestershire sauce, and molasses.
The interior o f a commercial smoker
This smoked brisket exhibits a distinct smoke ring, the pink ring ju s t under its outer crust.
Chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D ROA S TI NG
431
1. use the fat and juices
released by
th e fo o d its e lf f o r a tra d itio n a l b a stin g liquid. However, a sep ara te b a s tin g liquid, such as a m arinade, glaze, o r f la vore d o r plain b u tte r, may also be used. Once th e fo o d has been seasoned and tie d or tru sse d , if necessary, it may be seared in h o t fa t on the s to ve to p , under a b ro ile r, o r in a ve ry h o t oven. Some fo o d s are not seared, e sp ecially large cuts, since an extended ro a stin g tim e w ill produce a de ep ly colore d e x te rio r even w ith o u t an in itia l searing. A rrange th e fo o d on a w ire rack in a s tra ig h t-s id e d ro a s tin g pan. (The rack w ill help im prove air circu latio n.) There should be enough room in th e pan so th a t fo o d f it s c o m fo rta b ly and has enough space around it to allow fo r th e a d d itio n o f aro m atics. Place it in a pre he ated oven. Roast, a d ju sting oven te m p e ra tu re as necessary. Baste as necessary th ro u g h o u t cooking tim e (as shown in photograph). B astin g re tu rn s som e m o is tu re to th e fo o d , p re v e n t ing it fro m d ryin g out. The b a stin g liquid also im p a rts ad d itio n a l flavo r. A lte rn a tiv e b a stin g liquids such as m elte d b u tte r, oil, o r m arinades are p a rtic u la rly use ful if the fo o d is lean and does n o t release enough f a t o f its own fo r basting. For a pan sauce o r gravy, add m ire p o ix o r o th e r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e ro a s tin g pan, if desired.
2. use an instant-read
th e rm o m e te r to
de te rm in e doneness in ro a ste d fo o d s. To g e t th e m ost accu rate read, th e th e rm o m e te r m ust be in se rte d a t least as fa r as th e sm all d im ple on th e stem . N o tice th a t the ste m is in se rte d in to th e ite m ’s th ic k e s t pa rt, away fro m any bones. R oast fo o d s to th e c o rre c t doneness and le t them re s t b e fo re serving. M eats, fish, p o u ltry , and game are g e n e ra lly cooked to a s p e c ifie d in te rn a l te m p e ra tu re (see page 36 7). When th e fo o d is nearly done, rem ove it fro m th e pan and allow it to rest. Cover the fo o d loosely w ith fo il to keep it m o is t and place it in a w arm s p o t to re st. R esting plays a key role in ca rryo ve r cooking, which should be th o u g h t o f as th e la s t stage o f cooking. A llo w a re s tin g pe rio d o f a b o u t 5 m inutes f o r sm all item s, 15 to 20 m in utes f o r m edium item s, and up to 45 m in utes fo r ve ry large roa sts. This is done because as fo o d s roast, th e ir ju ice s becom e co n ce n tra te d in th e center. A re stin g p e rio d b e fo re c u ttin g in to th e fo o d gives th e ju ice s tim e to re d is trib u te evenly th ro u g h o u t. R esting also le ts the te m p e ra tu re o f th e fo o d equalize, which b e n e fits te x tu re , arom a, and fla vo r.
432
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
roasting
3. serve roasted foods w ith a pan sauce based on th e accu m ulated drip p in g s fro m th e fo o d . Jus and pan gra vy are th e m o st fre q u e n tly p re pa red pan sauces. Onions, ca rro ts , celery, g a rlic, o r o th e r a ro m a tic veg etab le s o r herbs added to th e pan du rin g ro a stin g w ill have brow ned and ro a ste d in the dripp ing s. They w ill have a deep c o lo r and w ill have absorbed som e o f the fla v o r fro m th e drip p in g s, so th a t th e y can p ro p e rly fla v o r and co lo r th e fin is h e d pan sauce. B e fo re p re p a rin g any pan sauce, be sure th a t th e drip p in g s are n o t scorched. Scorched d rip p in g s re s u lt in a b itte r, unpa lata ble sauce. To make a pan gravy, place th e ro a s tin g pan on th e s to v e to p and cook th e drip p in g s over m edium heat u n til th e m ire p o ix is brow ned and th e f a t is tra n s p a re n t and clear. The ju ice s w ill have sep ara te d fro m th e f a t and cooked down to a fo n d on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. For a pan gravy, pour o f f th e fa t, b u t leave enough to pre pa re a roux by coo kin g th e f a t and som e flo u r to g e th e r. If p re p a rin g a jus, flo u r is n o t used.
4. after the roux browns, gradually add the sto ck to the pan and s tir c on stantly to w ork out any lumps. Be sure the liquid is n o t to o hot or it may spatter. Add th e s to c k and sim m e r th e pan g ra vy o r jus. Cook a pan gra vy u n til th icke n e d and th e fla v o r has developed, b u t f o r a m inim um o f 2 0 m in u te s to ensure th e sta rch in the flo u r is s u ffic ie n tly cooked. To prepare a jus, pour o f f all o f th e rem a ining f a t and deglaze th e pan, if desired, w ith w ine o r a n o th e r liquid. A dd a s to c k th a t s u its the ro a ste d fo o d . S im m e r u n til th e fla v o r is w e ll developed, 15 to 20 m inutes. S kim th e ju s as it sim m ers to rem ove f a t and p a rtic le s fro m th e surface. A jus m ay be cooked down u n til th icke n e d , o r to pre pa re a ju s lie, th icke n the ju s w ith an a rro w ro o t o r co rn sta rch s lu rry ju s t b e fo re strain in g.
C hapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
433
5. use a fine-mesh sieve
to stra in
th e pan gra vy or ju s in to a clean h o ld ing co n ta in e r fo r storag e o r in to a pan to keep w arm f o r service. Hold the fin is h e d pan gra vy o r jus in a steam ta b le or w a te r bath like any o th e r sauce. Hold a ju s by covering it w ith a tig h tly f it t in g lid.
BARDING AND LARDING Two traditional preparation techniques
will not have the same moisture-retention
for roasted foods that are naturally lean
effect as the fatback, but it will add plenty
are barding (tying thin sheets of fatback,
of flavor.
bacon, or caul fat around a food) and lard
434
Today, due to increased concerns over
ing (inserting small strips of fatback into
the amount of fat in diets, often every trace
a food). The extra fat provides additional
of visible fat or skin is removed in an effort
flavor and also helps keep the meat tender
to reduce fat in the fined dish, even though
and juicy. Venison, wild boar, game birds,
the amount of fat released from skin or fat
and certain cuts of beef or lamb are candi
layers as foods roast does not penetrate
dates for barding or larding.
far into the meat. Fat and skin provide
Variations using different products are also employed to give different flavors to
of an oven without dramatically changing
roasted foods. For example, rather than
the amount of fat in the meat, and foods
being larded with fatback, a roast may be
stripped of their natural protection of fat
studded with slivers of garlic. The garlic
or skin can become dry and lose flavor.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
some protection from the drying effects
it e m
. T h e t h r e e it e m s c a r v e d o n t h e f o l l o w i n g p a g e s — a w h o l e d u c k , a r ib r o a s t o f b e e f ,
A N D A H A M — S H O U L D BE C O N S I D E R E D P R O T O T Y P E S F O R O T H E R M E A T S . F O R E X A M P L E , B E C A U S E T H E Y A R E S I M I L A R I N S T R U C T U R E , A L E G O F L A M B W O U L D BE C A R V E D IN T H E S A M E M A N N E R A S T H E H A M .
carving techniques
carving techniques
L a r g e r o a s t e d f o o d s m u s t be c a r v e d o r c u t in t o p o r t io n s c o r r e c t l y to m a k e t h e m o s t o f th e
Carving a roast duck When a guest orders duck, this pre sentation is the most user friendly. Most of the bones are removed so that the leg portion has only the drumstick bone and the breast por tion has a single wing bone. The two are nestled together so that the bone less breast and thigh meat overlap. The guest can simply cut into the meat without having to work around bones. 1 .
Cut th e legs away fro m the
body a t th e p o in t w here th e leg m ee ts th e bre ast. Pull th e leg away fro m th e body to reveal th e jo in t; cut th ro u g h th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t jo in t to sever it c o m p le te ly.
2.
Use th e boning k n ife to cut
along e ith e r side o f th e keel bone.
chapter 17 » GRI L LI NG, BROI LI NG, A N D R OAS TI NG
435
Carving a roast duck, continued
3.
Carve th e b re a s t away fro m th e rib cage w ith as litt le trim loss as pos
sible by m aking th e edge o f th e blade run as close to th e bones as you can.
4.
Pull th e th ig h bone up and aw ay fro m th e th ig h m eat. Use th e k n ife as
shown to sep ara te th e bone a t th e leg jo in t.
5 .
To nest th e leg and b re a s t p o rtio n s fo r p re se n ta tio n , p o s itio n th e leg p o r
tio n on th e b o tto m and th e b re a s t p o rtio n ove rla p p in g th e leg, w ith th e d ru m s tic k bone and th e w ing bone on o p p o s ite sides.
436
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
carving techniques
Carving a beef rib roast
Carving ham in the dining room
A beef rib roast is a large cut and is
This carving method may also be
2.
easiest to handle when turned on its
used for legs of lamb and steamship
large, begin to cu t th e m ea t a t a s lig h t
side. This carving method can also
rounds.
angle, f ir s t fro m th e le ft side, then
be used for a rack of veal or venison. These smaller roasts need not be
W hen th e slices becom e very
fro m th e rig h t side, a lte rn a tin g u n til 1 .
A fte r th e end piece has been
turned on their sides, and cuts are
cu t away, make p a ra lle l cuts fro m
made from top to bottom between
th e shank end down th e bone. Con
the bones. The meat can be cut away
tin u e c u ttin g slices o f m ea t fro m
from the bones to make slices or the
th e leg, c u ttin g aw ay fro m th e bone
bones may be left in place to produce
to make even slices. The in itia l cuts
chops.
are made v e rtic a lly , u n til th e bone
th e leg is e n tire ly sliced.
is reached. 1 .
Lay th e rib ro a s t on its side.
Using a slicin g kn ife , make p a rallel cuts fro m th e o u te r edge to w a rd the bones. Use th e k n ife tip to cut th e slices o f m ea t away fro m the bone. S to re cu t side up if necessary to pre ve n t ju ic e loss.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
437
Carving a ham in the kitchen 1.
Stand th e ham on end, w ith th e s irlo in end re s tin g on th e board. Hold
th e shank end w ith your g u id ing hand to keep th e ham stab le. M ake a cut in to th e lean m eat ju s t below th e s tifle jo in t on th e shank end and fo llo w the n a tural curve o f th e fem ur. Cut close to th e bone f o r th e b e st yield.
2.
A t th e b a ll-a n d -so cke t jo in t, cu t around the jo in t. This f ir s t cut w ill not
co m p le te ly cu t th e m eat away fro m th e bone. Remove th e to p piece o f m eat fro m th e aitch bone.
3.
Repeat th e same sequence o f cuts on th e second side o f th e bone to
c o m p le te ly fre e th e m eat. The m ea t w ill appear to have a V-shaped notch where it was cu t aw ay fro m th e bone.
438
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
n
P
t-i
i—*<
2
QTQ c+
ro n
t r
2
i—>• h
Q
£
ro CZ!
4.
C ut aw ay th e m ea t fro m th e back side o f th e fem ur. Try to keep the
pieces o f m ea t as in ta c t as possible.
5 .
Cut th e la rg e r pieces o f ham in to m anageable pieces th a t can be sliced
in to p o rtio n s.
6 .
Carve th e ham in to slices w ith a s lice r as shown. The ham could also be
sliced on an e le c tric m ea t slicer.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
439
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce Makes 10 servings Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks 1
tb s p /lO g s a lt
Makes 32 fl
0Z/960
mL
V/2 o z/4 3 g minced shallot 2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter 2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sliced white mushrooms 8
f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
V/2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g whole butter, diced
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
20 ft o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce (recipe follows)
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper. 3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the
1 . Sweat the shallots in the clarified butter in a small rondeau over medium heat.
2 . Add the mushrooms and saute over high heat, stir ring often, until the juices have cooked away.
3 . Add the wine to deglaze the pan. Cook until the wine is reduced by two-thirds.
4 . Add the demi-glace and simmer until the sauce has a
desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare
good consistency and flavor, about 5 minutes. Finish
(internal temperature of i35°F/57°C), 6V2 min
the sauce with the whole butter (monte au beurre).
utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for
5 . Season with salt and pepper. The sauce is ready to
medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-
serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refriger
well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done
ated for later use.
(i7 0 0F/77°C).
5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce. G rilled o r B roiled S irlo in S teak w ith M a itre d’H o te l B u tte r: Replace the mushroom sauce w ith 10 oz/2 84 g Maitre d’Hotel B utter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings. Top each cooked steak w ith the butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the bu tte r begins to melt. Serve at once.
440
Mushroom Sauce
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Makes 10 servings
Marchand de Vin Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot 2
thyme sprigs
1
bay leaf
Ten 1 0 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks
V2 tsp / 1 g cracked black peppercorns
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine
V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil
Salt, as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Marchand de Vin Sauce (recipe follows)
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 2 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Brush lightly with oil.
3 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal temperature of 135°F/57°C), 6V2 min
4 o z /1 13 g butter, diced
1 . Combine the shallots, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, and wine in a small rondeau. Bring the mixture to a boil and reduce to a syrupy consistency, about 5 min utes.
2.. Add the demi-glace and reduce to a nappe consis tency, 8 to 10 minutes.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce. Finish with butter.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or it may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce
well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done (i70°F/77°C).
5 . Heat the sauce. Serve each steak at once with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
441
Seitan Satay Makes 10 servings SEITAN 2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g diced shallot V 2 o z/1 4 g seeded and minced jalapeno '/ 2
o z/1 4 g minced garlic
V2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL soy sauce
5 . For the peanut sauce, heat the peanut oil in a me dium saute pan over medium heat. Stir in the curry paste and turmeric until the mixture bubbles slight ly, about 1 minute. 6 . Stir in the peanut butter, coconut milk, stock, lime juice, and chili sauce and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. When the liquid begins to bubble, remove from the heat and continue to stir for 1 minute. Add the peanuts, and reserve for service.
7 . Thread the marinated seitan onto the skewers. Grill the seitan until nicely browned and heated through,
2 V2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice 2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil 2 o z/5 7 g honey 2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro 1 lb 14 o z/851 g seitan, cubed or cut into V 4-in /6-m m strips SPICY PEANUT SAUCE 2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil V2 o z/1 4 g Red Curry Paste (page 370) 1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric 9 o z/2 5 5 g peanut butter 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL coconut milk 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265) 3 tb sp /4 5 mL lime juice 2 'A f I o z/7 5 mL sweet Thai chili sauce 6 o z /1 7 0 g peanuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
1 . For the seitan, heat the olive oil in a small saute pan over low heat. Add the shallots and jalapenos and saute until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and saute until aromatic, about 1 minute more. Transfer to a blender or food processor.
2 . Add the soy sauce, lime juice, sesame oil, honey, and cilantro. Pulse until smooth. If the mixture is too thick and pasty, add water 1 tbsp/15 mL at a time to create a thick marinade.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a shallow hotel pan, and add the seitan. Turn to coat each piece. Marinate, cov ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
4 . Soak wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes.
442
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve with spicy peanut sauce.
Makes 10 servings
8 . Remove the steaks from the grill and allow them to rest for 5 minutes in a warm place. Slice each steak on the bias into 5 pieces.
MARINADE
9 . Serve immediately with the vegetables.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sake 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL mirin 3 3/4 o z /1 0 6 g sugar 21/4 o z/6 4 g grated apple
Barbecued Steak with Herb Crust Makes 10 servings
10 beef skirt steaks (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g each) 1 lb /4 5 4 g snow peas
HERB CRUST
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs
20 medium white mushrooms caps
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, melted
1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts
V 2 o z/1 4 g parsley, chopped
l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic lt s p /3 g s a lt
1 . To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, sake,
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
mirin, and sugar in a medium sauce pot and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the apple, and mix
STEAKS
well. Cool completely.
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g sirloin steaks
2 . Pour the marinade over the steaks in a hotel pan. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
up to overnight.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Beef Teriya
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
3 . Cut the snow peas diagonally in 2 or 3 pieces. 3 fl o z/4 5 mL vegetable oil
4 . Heat the oil in a saute pan or wok over medium-high heat. Add the mushroom caps, bean sprouts, and snow peas and saute until just tender. Season with salt. Reserve warm.
5 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade from the steaks; blot dry if necessary. 6 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
7 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal temperature of i35°F/57°C), 6V2 min utes for medium-rare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for mediumwell (i65°F/74°C), and 11 minutes for well-done (i70°F/77°C).
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475; o p tio n a l)
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
2.. Combine all of the ingredients for the herb crust and blend well. Reserve.
3 . Season the steaks with salt and pepper, rub with gar lic, and lightly brush with oil.
4 . Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil the steaks undisturbed for about 2 minutes.
5 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de sired doneness, about 5 minutes more for rare (internal temperature of 135°F/57°C), 6V2 minutes for mediumrare (i45°F/63°C), 8 minutes for medium (i6o°F/7i°C), 9 minutes for medium-well (i65°F/74°C), and 11 min utes for well-done (i70°F/77°C). 6 . Top the steaks with the herb crust and brown the top ping under a salamander or broiler. Serve the steaks at once, with barbecue sauce if desired.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
445
Skewered Beef and Scallions Makes
10
servings
Grilled Rib Eye Steak Makes
10
servings
MARINADE 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil
MARINADE 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce 2 f I o z/6 0 mL sesame oil
V 2 o z/1 4 g ground black pepper 13 garlic cloves, crushed 1 bunch rosemary, roughly chopped
l'/2 o z/4 3 g sugar BEEF '/2
o z/1 4 g minced garlic
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g minced ginger
Ten 10 -o z/2 8 4 -g boneless rib eye steaks 1 o z/2 8 g salt 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper V 2 o z /1 4 g ground black pepper
BEEF 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg beef flank steak, cut 1 by 4 b y’/s in /3 by 10 cm by 3 mm 6 bunches green onions, cut into pieces 3'/2 in /9 cm long
1 . Preheat the grill. 2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Add the steaks and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Add the beef and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.
2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the beef on the skewers, alternating with the green onions.
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un disturbed for about 1 minute. ( Optional: Give each skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera ture of i45°F/63°C. 6 . Serve immediately.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
3 . Wipe excess marinade from the steaks. Season with salt and pepper. Place the steaks presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each steak a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the de sired doneness, or a minimum internal temperature o f i45°F/63°C.
5 . Serve immediately.
Dill Sauce
(Raznjici)
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
Makes 10 servings
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 294) 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
MARINADE 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lemon juice 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil
3 tb s p /9 g chopped dill Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z /1 1 3 g s lic e d onion
P /4 o z/5 0 g thinly sliced garlic 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
In a medium sauce pot, warm the veloute to a gentle simmer, about i 85°F/85°C. Temper the sour cream and add it to the veloute.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless veal top round, cut into l ’/2-in /4-c m cubes
Stir in the dill. Return to just below a simmer, about
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin, cut into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes
warm for service.
i8o°F/82°C. Season with salt and pepper. Hold
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt l
'/2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
GARNISH 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced onion 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Dill Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Add the meats. Marinate, covered, in the
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Pork and Veal Skewers
refrigerator for 3 hours or overnight.
2 . Soak wooden skewers for 30 minutes. Thread the meats onto the skewers. Allow any excess marinade to drain from the meat before grilling or broiling; blot if necessary. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 4 . Place the skewers presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un disturbed for 3 to 4 minutes.
5 . Turn the skewers over and complete cooking, 3 to 4 minutes more, or to a minimum internal tempera ture of 145°F/63°C. Brush the meat with additional marinade as it broils or grills. 6 . Serve immediately with the sliced onions and dill sauce. B roiled Lamb Kebabs w ith P im iento B u tte r: Replace the veal and pork w ith an equal to ta l amount o f boneless lamb leg. Replace the dill sauce w ith Pimiento Butter (page 300).
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G . A N D RO AS TING
447
Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider
Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /3 0 mL applejack brandy 10 loin pork chops (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g each) 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt l
’/ 2
tsp/B g ground black pepper
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Apple Cider Sauce (recipe follows) 10 servings Caramelized Apples (recipe follows) 2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg Braised Red Cabbage (page 7 1 1)
3 thyme sprigs 5 black peppercorns, crushed 1 bay leaf Slurry (see page 247), as needed
1 . Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large sauce pot over medium-high heat. Add
1 . Heat 6 charcoal briquettes on a rack over the direct flame of a burner until red hot.
2 . Place the pork on a wire rack on a sheet pan in a cold oven.
the pork and cook until evenly browned on all sides. Remove the meat from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook until caramel ized.
3 . Carefully transfer the coals to a half hotel pan. Sprin kle them with wood chips to create smoke.
4 . Place the pan of smoking wood chips indirectly
3 . Deglaze with the cider and applejack. Reduce by half. 4 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the stock, thyme, pep percorns, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer (between
under the pork. Close the oven door and smoke the
i8o°F and i85°F/82°C and 85°C) and cook until
pork for at least 10 but no more than 15 minutes. Do
reduced by half, skimming as necessary, 25 to 30 min
not oversmoke.
utes.
5 . Remove the pork and refrigerate, covered, until needed. Pour water over the coals to extinguish
5 . Thicken with a slurry, if necessary. Strain and hold hot for service.
them. Dispose of them when cold. 6 . Preheat the grill. Season the pork with salt and pep per and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill un disturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
7 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C. 8 . Heat the apple cider sauce, caramelized apples, and
Caramelized Apples Makes 10 servings 8 seasonal apples Juice of 2 lemons 7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar Salt, as needed
braised red cabbage. Serve each chop with 4V2 oz/128 g cabbage, 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce, and about 6 apple
1 . Peel and core the apples. Cut each apple into 8 wedges. Sprinkle half of the lemon juice over the
wedges.
apples to prevent oxidation.
Apple Cider Sauce Makes 32 fl
0Z/960
mL
8 o z/2 2 7 g lean pork trim, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes l t s p /3 g s a lt V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
448
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
2 . Combine the sugar with the remaining lemon juice in a large saute pan and mix well. Caramelize the sugar over high heat.
3 . Carefully add the apple slices and coat with the cara melized sugar. Season lightly with a pinch of salt. Reserve warm.
Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce Makes 10 servings
Sherry Vinegar Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL sherry vinegar 3 o z/8 5 g dark brown sugar 26 fl o z/7 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
10 bone-in pork chops (about 12 o z/3 4 0 g each, 2 in /5 cm thick)
Salt, as needed
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
Ground black pepper, as needed
V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, diced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 20 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Prepare a gastrique as follows: Cook the vinegar and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until the mixture comes to a boil and the sugar is
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler. 2 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for 8 to 10 minutes. (Op tional: Give each chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill
marks.)
3 . Turn the pork chops over and complete cooking to a minimum internal temperature of i45°F/63°C.
4 . Remove the pork chops from the grill or broiler and allow them to rest for about 5 minutes.
5 . Heat the sherry vinegar sauce. Top each pork chop with 2 fl oz/6o mL sauce and serve at once.
450
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
completely dissolved, 4 to 6 minutes.
2 . Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the jus lie to the gastrique. Stir to combine and return to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the sauce to a nappe consistency, about 15 minutes.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce and finish with whole butter (monte au beurre). The sauce is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
Makes
10
servings
the fibrous choke from the center of the artichoke. Halve each of the halves and store in the lemon water to prevent browning.
4 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed, in large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. (Use more oil than a saute, but less than a pan fry.) Thoroughly drain the artichokes. Brown lightly, without overcrowding the pan. (Work in batches if necessary.) When lightly golden, season
MARINADE
with salt and pepper, remove from the pan, and
6 black peppercorns
drain on paper towels. Reserve.
1 bay leaf 2 o z/5 7 g parsley leaves V 2 o z/1 4 g thyme leaves ’/ 2
o z/1 4 g rosemary leaves
1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves 24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
5 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the onions until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Shock in cold water, peel, and cut in half lengthwise. Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the extra-virgin olive oil in a large sau te pan over medium heat. Saute the onions until lightly caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan, cool, and reserve. 6 . Cook the garlic slices in the remaining 2 tbsp/30
20 lamb rib chops (about 4 oz/1 IB g each), frenched
mL olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat until the edges begin to brown. Add the onions, ar
ARTICHOKES AND ONIONS
tichokes, parsley, and oregano, and adjust season
Juice of 3 lemons
ing with salt and pepper. Add the stock and reduce
30 baby artichokes
the liquid by three-quarters. Stir in the butter and cook until the vegetables are glazed. Reserve warm
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
while grilling the lamb.
7 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
from the lamb chops; blot dry if necessary. Season
30 cipollini onions
with salt and pepper. Wrap the bones with alumi
2 o z/5 7 g sliced garlic 3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
num foil, if desired. 8 . Place the chops presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
turbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
chop a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, diced
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions
9 . Turn the chops over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera
1 . Combine the peppercorns, bay leaf, parsley, thyme, rosemary, and garlic in a blender. Add 2 fl oz/6o mL of the olive oil and blend until smooth. Gradu
ture of 145°F/63°C.
1 0 . Serve the ragout of vegetables in the middle of the plate with 2 chops on top.
ally blend in the remaining oil.
2 . Pour the marinade over the lamb chops in a hotel pan and refrigerate, covered, for a minimum of 45 minutes to overnight.
3 . Combine 1 gal/3.84 L water with the lemon juice. Peel the stems and remove the tough outer leaves of the artichokes, and split them in half length wise. With a spoon or parisienne scoop, remove
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
451
Turn the skewers over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or a minimum internal tempera ture of i45°F/65°C. Serve 3 or 4 skewers per person with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the chutney.
M akes 1 0 servings
6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg, broken down into subprimal cuts (see page 384)
Fresh Mango Chutney M akes 32 fl o z/g6o mL
M A R IN A D E
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mangos 1 ts p /2 g ground green cardamom 1 ts p /2 g ground cumin V 2 tsp /1 g ground nutmeg 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic 3A oz/21 g minced ginger
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice 4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro 2 ts p /6 g minced ginger 1 ts p /3 g minced jalapeno (optional) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt
Combine all the ingredients, including the minced jalapeno, if using. Let the chutney rest in the refrig
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Fresh Mango Chutney (recipe follows)
erator for up to 2 hours to allow the flavors to marry. Adjust seasoning before serving, if necessary, with additional lime juice, salt, or pepper.
1 . Trim the lamb and separate it into individual mus cles. Remove all interior fat and gristle. Cut the meat into long, thin strips, 1 by 4 by Vs in/3 by 10 cm by 3
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango
mm.
2.. To make the marinade, toast the cardamom and cumin lightly in a dry saute pan. Add the nutmeg, onions, garlic, ginger, and pepper and toast until fragrant. Let cool. Add to the yogurt.
3 . Pour the marinade over the lamb in a hotel pan and turn to coat evenly. Marinate the lamb, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
4 . Preheat the grill. Thread the lamb onto metal skew ers and allow the excess marinade to drain away.
5 . Place the lamb presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill undisturbed for about 1 minute. (Optional: Give each skewer a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TIN G
453
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
Makes 10 servings
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties Makes 10 servings 2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
2 o z/5 7 g fresh white bread crumbs
Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water, or as needed
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
3 lb /1.36 kg ground lamb
V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g toasted pine nuts
3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil
2 eggs, beaten
Butter, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g ta h in i
10 o z /2 8 4 g Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings
3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
1 ts p /2 g ground coriander
2 . Pound the chicken breasts to even the thickness.
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cumin 1 ts p /2 g ground fennel seed 2 tb s p /1 8 g grated ginger
Season with salt and pepper and lightly brush with oil.
3 . Place the chicken presentation (skin) side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil
1 . Cook the onions in the oil in a small saute pan over medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool.
2.. Soak the bread crumbs in water. Squeeze out any ex cess moisture. Combine with the onions and garlic.
3 . Combine the bread crumb mixture with the lamb, pine nuts, eggs, tahini, parsley, salt, pepper, spices, and ginger. Mix gently but thoroughly. Shape the mixture into ten patties and chill.
4 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Place the patties on the grill or broiler rods. Grill or broil undisturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each patty a quar ter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
5 . Turn the patties over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or to a minimum internal tem perature of 145°F/63°C. 6 . Serve immediately.
454
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
undisturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.)
4 . Turn the chicken over and complete cooking until the chicken is cooked through (minimum internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 6 to 8 minutes.
5 . Top each chicken breast with a serving of the sundried tomato and oregano butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the butter begins to melt. Serve at once.
Makes
10
servings
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL olive oil 3 garlic cloves, crushed
Grilled Pai I lards of Chicken with Tarragon Butter Makes
10
servings
10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 o z/1 4 2 to 170 g each)
3A ts p /2 g cracked fennel seeds
MARINADE
3/t ts p /2 .5 g s a lt
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
10 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 6 o z/1 42 to 170 g each), pounded to an even thickness
2 ts p /2 g chopped tarragon
FENNEL
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
2 o z/5 7 g butter 1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
10 o z /2 8 4 g Tarragon Butter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g fennel, cut into julienne 2 tb sp /3 0 mL Pernod 10 fennel pluches (optional)
1 . Trim and pound the chicken into paillards (see page 380).
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a 1 . Combine the oil, garlic, fennel seeds, V2 tsp/1.5 g of the salt, and V4 tsp/0.50 g of the pepper in a hotel pan. Add the chicken and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
2 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.
B. Place the chicken presentation side down on the
hotel pan, add the chicken, and marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Drain excess marinade from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.
4 . Place the chicken presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un disturbed for about 2 minutes. ( Optional: Give each
grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil un
breast a quarter-turn to achieve grill marks.) Turn
disturbed for about 2 minutes.
the chicken over. Continue to cook the chicken until
4 . Brush with the marinade and turn the chicken over. Continue to cook the chicken, brushing with the marinade periodically, until the chicken is cooked through (minimum internal temperature of
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel
cooked through (minimum internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 3 to 5 minutes.
5 . Top each paillard with a serving of the tarragon but ter and serve immediately.
i65°F/74°C), 6 to 8 minutes. Reserve warm.
5 . For the fennel, heat the butter in a medium sauce pan over medium-high heat. Saute the shallots until translucent, about 1 minute. 6 . Add the fennel and cover the pan. Cook until the fennel is tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the Pernod. Ignite the Pernod and cook until the flame burns itself out. Adjust sea soning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve on a bed of fennel and garnish with fennel pluches.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
455
Makes 10 servings
MARINADE
Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado) Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion
V2 o z/1 4 g minced malaguetas or habaneros
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice peeled plum tomatoes
1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme
3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
V 4 ts p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic
2 '/2 ts p /8 .5 g s a lt
3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
MIXED GRILL
Malagueta oil or hot pepper sauce, as needed
5 whole chicken legs (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g each), separated
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork loin 2 lb /9 0 7 g flank steak
Combine the onions, tomatoes, parsley, and garlic in
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Hot Pepper Sauce (recipe follows)
a small bowl. Mix in the vinegar and oil and season with the pepper oil or sauce, salt, and pepper.
1 . To make the marinade, combine the oil, peppers,
Cover and chill at least 1 hour prior to service. Adjust
thyme, garlic, V2 tsp/1.5 g of the salt, and V2 tsp/i g
seasoning with salt, pepper, and pepper oil or sauce,
of the pepper in a hotel pan. Marinate the chicken,
if necessary.
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
2.. Preheat the grill. 3 . Season the pork with 1 tsp/3 g ° f the salt and V2 tsp/i g of the pepper. Season the steak with the remain
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Brazilian Mixed Grill
ing salt and pepper. Drain excess marinade from the chicken; blot dry if necessary.
4 . Grill the pork until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the pork to a 35o°F/i77°C oven and cook to an internal temperature of i55°F/68°C, about 10 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
5 . Place the steak and chicken presentation side down on the grill rods. Grill the chicken until cooked through (internal temperature of i65°F/74°C), 8 to 10 minutes per side. Rotate as necessary to ensure even browning. 6 . Meanwhile, grill the steaks undisturbed for about 2 minutes. Turn the steaks over and complete cooking to the desired doneness, or to a minimum internal temperature of 145°F/63°C.
7 . Slice the pork into Vi-in/i-cm portions. Thinly slice the beef across the grain. Serve 1 chicken drumstick or thigh, 2 slices of pork loin, and 2 slices of flank steak. Serve with hot pepper sauce.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
457
Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce Makes 10 servings MARINADE 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider 2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
Black Bean Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 9 Y2
o z /269
g dried black beans, soaked overnight
50 fl o z/1.50 L Chicken Stock (page 263 ) V 2 o z/1 4 g diced bacon 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced onion 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 'A ts p /0.25 g chopped oregano V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin V 2 ts p /1 .5 g chopped jalapeno 1 dried chile
CHICKEN Salt, as needed 10 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts (6 o z/1 7 0 g each) Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
IV2ts p /3 g ground black pepper
V i o z/1 4 g chopped sun-dried tomato 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475) 1 ts p /5 mL sherry vinegar 20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Black Bean Sauce (recipe follows), warm
1. Com binealltheingredientsforthemarinadeina
hotelpan.Addthechickenandturntocoatitevenly. Marinatethechicken,covered,intherefrigerator for1to2hours. 2 . Preheatthegrillorbroiler. Drainexcessm arinade fromthechicken;blotdryifnecessary.Seasonwith saltandpepper. 3. Placethechickenpresentationsidedow nonthe grillrodsoruponthebroilerrods.Grillorbroilun disturbedforabout2minutes. (Optional:Giveeach breastaquarter-turntoachievegrillmarks.) 4 . Brushw iththebarbecuesauceandturnthechicken over.Continuetocookthechicken,brushingperi odicallywithalightcoatofbarbecuesauce,untilthe chickeniscookedthrough(internaltemperatureof i65°F/74°C), 6to8minutes. 5. Servethechickenonheatedplateswiththeblack beansauce.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
1. Sim merthebeansinthestockinamediumsauce
panovermediumheatuntiltender,about1hour. Drainthebeansandreserveabout8floz/240mLof thecookingliquid. 2 . Inasecondm ediumsaucepan,renderthebacon overmediumheatuntilitreleasesitsfatandbe comescrisp,about5minutes.Addtheoil,onions, garlic,oregano,cumin,jalapenos,anddriedchile. Sauteovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,until theonionsarelimpandtranslucent, 6to8minutes. 3.A ddthecookedbeanstothesauteedvegetablesand heatallingredientsthoroughly.Seasonwithsaltand pepperandcookfor10to15minutesmore. 4 . Pureeone-thirdofthebeans.A ddthetomatoesand pureeuntilsmooth.Adjustthepureeconsistency withreservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Addthe pureebacktothebeans.Adjusttheconsistencywith thereservedcookingliquid,asneeded.Seasonwith lemonjuiceandvinegar. 5.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper.Thesauce isreadytoservenow,ormayberapidlycooledand refrigeratedforlateruse.
Makes 10 servings JERK SEASONING 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g roughly chopped onion 2 'A o z/71 g roughly chopped green onion
2 fl o z/6 0 mL dark rum 2 f I o z/6 0 mL soy sauce 1 tb sp /6 g ground allspice
Fillet of Mahi Mahi with PineappleJi'cama Salsa Makes 10 servings 3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg mahi mahi fillet, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings lt b s p /lO g s a lt l
'/ 2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
2
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL lime juice
2
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon 4 ts p /4 g th y m e I V 2 ts p /5 g salt
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa (recipe follows)
V h ts p /3 g ground nutmeg 1 ts p /2 g ground cloves
1 . Preheat the grill or broiler.
1 or 2 Scotch bonnets, stems and seeds removed, roughly chopped
2.. Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lime juice.
10 game hens, butterflied 1 o z /2 8 g coarse salt
Brush the fillets lightly with the oil.
3 . Place the fish presentation side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil undis turbed for about 2 minutes.
4 . Turn the fish over and complete cooking until the 1 . Combine all the jerk seasoning ingredients in a blender. Puree to a smooth, thick paste.
flesh is opaque and firm, 3 to 5 minutes.
5 . Serve immediately with pineapple-jicama salsa.
2 . Wearing gloves, rub the jerk seasoning onto both sides of the game hens. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
3 . Preheat the grill or broiler. Season each hen with Vz tsp/2.50 g coarse salt. Place the hens presenta
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Jerked Game Hens
Pineapple-Jfcama Salsa Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil
tion (skin) side down on the grill rods or up on the broiler rods. Grill or broil for 12 minutes. Turn the
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lime juice
hens over, and cook to an internal temperature of
Salt, as needed
i65°F/74°C, about 12 minutes more.
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 . Serve immediately.
1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro 6 o z/1 7 0 g ji'cama, cut into fine julienne 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice pineapple 4 V a o z/1 2 0 g minced red onion
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice red pepper V 2 o z /1 4 g minced jalapeno
Mix together the oil, lime juice, salt, pepper, and ci lantro. Add the remaining ingredients and toss to coat. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
459
Makes
10
servings
Ten 1 lb 8 -o z /6 8 0 -g lobsters B'/z o z / 9
9
Broiled Bluefish a i'Angiaise with MaTtre d'Hotel Butter Makes
10
servings
g butter
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced onion
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skinless bluefish fillet, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced celery
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced red pepper
r
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper
2 'A f 1o z/7 5 mL lemon juice
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted
r
1 o z/2 8 g fresh bread crumbs
/2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
l ' A o z/3 5 g bread crumbs 3 tb s p /4 5 mL dry sherry
/2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
10 o z /2 8 4 g MaTtre d'Hotel Butter (page 300), piped or sliced into ten l-o z /2 8 -g servings
2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted
1 . Preheat the broiler. 1 . Preheat the broiler. 2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the lobsters and parboil for 7 minutes. Allow the lobsters to cool slightly.
3 . Detach the claws from the bodies. Remove the meat from the claws and dice. Reserve. Split the lobster bodies. Remove the coral and tomalley and reserve to add to the stuffing, if desired.
4 . Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium-high
2 . Season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Brush the fillets lightly with the butter. Dip in the bread crumbs, and gently press down on the surface.
3 . Place the fillets on a broiler rack. Broil until barely cooked through (flesh should be opaque and firm), 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Top each fillet with a serving of the maitre d’hotel
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Broiled S tu ffe d Lobster
butter. Place under a broiler or salamander until the butter begins to melt. Serve at once.
heat. Add the onions, celery, and peppers and cook until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Sea son with salt and pepper and remove from the heat. Add the reserved coral and tomalley, if using, the diced claw meat, bread crumbs, and sherry. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if needed.
5 . Spoon the stuffing into the body cavity of each lob ster. Do not place stuffing over the tail meat. Season the tail meat with salt and pepper and brush lightly with melted butter. 6 . Place the lobsters on a broiler rack, shell side down, and broil until the stuffing begins to crisp and turn golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Serve at once.
C hapter 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTING
461
Fish Kebabs
Mint and Yogurt Chutney
Makes 10 servings
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
MARINADE 10 fl oz/BOO mL sour cream 4 o z/1 1 3 g cashew nut paste B o z/8 5 g chickpea flour V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped Thai chiles 3 tb sp /4 5 mL lemon juice 4'/2 ts p /9 g freshly ground white pepper lt b s p /9 g garlic paste
5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g cilantro stems and leaves 5V2 o z / 1 5 6 g mint leaves
2 ts p /4 g cumin seeds 16 Thai bird chiles 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice 1 o z /2 8 g sugar Salt, as needed 20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL plain yogurt, drained overnight
1 tb sp /6 g ground fennel seed 2 ts p /4 g ajwain, crushed
1 . Combine the cilantro, mint, cumin, and chiles in a blender and puree until smooth. If necessary, add 2
1 ts p /3 g ground ginger
tbsp/30 mL of the lemon juice when blending. The
Salt, as needed
mixture should not be watery; drain if necessary.
2 . Combine the herb puree with the remaining lemon 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg black cod fillet, cut into 3-in/8-cm cubes
juice, the sugar, salt, and yogurt. Adjust seasoning,
Salt, as needed
sweet, and salty.)
Lemon juice, as needed 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, melted 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Mint and Yogurt Chutney (recipe follows)
1 . Preheat the broiler.
2 . . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and additional chiles, if necessary.
3 . Season the fish with salt and lemon juice. Let it stand for 15 minutes.
4 . Blot with paper towels to remove the excess mois ture. Add the fish to the marinade. Marinate, cov ered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
5 . Place the fish on a rack over a sheet pan and baste with the butter. Make sure there is sufficient mari nade on each piece. 6 . Cook the fish under a broiler on high until the top of the fish is dark brown with spots of black, 12 to 15 minutes.
7 . Serve immediately with the mint and yogurt chutney.
462
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
if necessary. (The chutney should be minty, spicy,
3 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be refrig erated for later use.
Madeira Sauce
Makes
Makes
10
servings
4 to 5 lb/1.81 to 2.27 kg beef tenderloin lt b s p /lO g s a lt V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil 8 o z/2 2 7 g foie gras pate 2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped tru ffle peelings 1 sheet Puff Pastry Dough (page 1076) 3 f I o z/9 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023) 20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (recipe follows)
32
f l oz/g6o mL
40 fl o z/1.20 L Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293) 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Madeira Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z /1 1 3 g butter, medium dice
1 . Bring the jus lie to a simmer over medium heat and reduce by half.
2 . Add the Madeira and simmer until the sauce has a good flavor and consistency, 2 to 3 minutes more.
1 . Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over high heat. Sear the
Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Whisk in the butter over low heat just before serving.
tenderloin on all sides. Remove from the pan and let cool.
M arsala Sauce: Replace the Madeira w ith Marsala.
2 . Spread the surface of the tenderloin with the pate and sprinkle with the truffles.
3 . Roll the dough out to 3/16 in/5 mm thick. Place the tenderloin in the center of the dough. Wrap the dough around the tenderloin. Fold the ends under and roll over so the seam is on the bottom. Brush with egg wash.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Beef Wellington
4 . Place the beef, seam side down, on an oiled sheet pan in a 400°F/204°C oven. Bake until the puff pastry is lightly browned, and the meat reaches a minimum internal temperature of 145°F/63°C, about 20 minutes. (Use a convection oven if possible.) Remove from the oven and let rest 15 minutes.
5 . Cut into %-in/2-cm slices. Serve immediately with the Madeira sauce on the side.
ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
463
Standing Rib Roast au Jus Makes 25 servings
Veal Shoulder Poele Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal shoulder r
14 lb /6.35 kg bone-in beef rib roast (see Note) V A o z/3 5 g salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g rough-cut Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
/2
ts p /5 g salt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper ]A ts p /0 .2 5 g finely chopped rosemary V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade '/2
ts p /0.50 g finely chopped thyme
V 2 ts p /0.50 g finely chopped marjoram 2 garlic cloves, minced
1 . Season the beef with salt and pepper.
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter, plus more as needed
2 . Place the beef on a rack in a roasting pan and roast
2 o z/5 7 g diced slab bacon or smoked ham
in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it reaches an internal temperature of 125°F/52°C.
3 . Add the mirepoix about 30 minutes before the roast is done and let it brown.
4 . Remove the roast from the pan and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.
5 . While the roast is resting, place the roasting pan on the stovetop. Cook until the mirepoix is well
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste (o p tio n a l) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine 2 bay leaves 1 ts p /3 g cornstarch, diluted in water or stock to make a slurry
browned, the fat is clear, about 5 minutes, and the pan drippings have reduced. Degrease as needed.
1 . Butterfly the veal. Season it with salt and pepper.
Deglaze the roasting pan with the stock. Adjust sea
2 . Mix together the rosemary, basil, thyme, marjoram,
soning with salt and pepper. Strain and reserve in a
and garlic. Spread this mixture evenly over the in
bain-marie. Hold hot for service.
side of the veal. Roll and tie the veal roast.
6 . Slice the beef and serve immediately with the jus. NOTE: A standard rib roast can range from 14 lb/6.35 kg to as much as 22 lb/9.97 kg.
3 . To make the matignon, melt the butter in a lidded sauteuse over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the mirepoix. Cook until a light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the to mato paste, if desired, and cook briefly.
4 . Place the veal on top of the matignon and baste with some additional butter.
5 . Cover the pan and place in a 300°F/i49°C oven, bast ing every 20 minutes, for about 1 hour. Remove the lid for the last 30 minutes to allow the veal to brown. 6 . Check for doneness: the meat should be tender when pierced with a fork. Remove the veal from the pan and keep warm.
7 . Add the stock, wine, and bay leaves to the pan and simmer for 20 minutes. Degrease if necessary. 8 . Thicken with the slurry and reduce, if necessary. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
9 . Slice the veal into portions and serve with the sauce.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Makes 1 0 servings 4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 kg bone-in pork loin roast
Baked S tu ffe d Pork Chops Makes 1 0 servings
V 2 o z /1 4 g minced garlic 1 ts p /1 g minced rosem ary lt b s p /lO g s a lt
V/ 2
10 ce n te r-c u t pork chops (8 to 1 0 o z /2 2 7 to 2 8 4 g, I V 2 in /4 cm thick)
STUFFING
ts p /3 g ground black pepper 2 fl o z /6 0 mL vegetable oil
JUS LIE 8 o z /2 2 7 g m edium -dice S tandard M irepo ix (page 2 4 3 )
4 o z /1 1 3 g minced onion 3 o z /8 5 g minced celery 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
2 tb s p /3 0 mL to m ato paste 4 fl o z /1 2 0 mL dry w hite wine
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs 1 tb s p /3 g chopped parsley
1 q t /9 6 0 mL Brown Veal S to ck (page 2 6 3 ) 2 thym e sprigs 1 bay leaf
1 ts p /1 g rubbed sage 2 t s p /6 . 5 g s a l t 1 t s p /2 g ground black pepper
2 t b s p /3 0 mL a rro w ro o t slurry, or as needed 6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
1 . Trim the pork loin and tie. Rub the roast with the
2 4 fl o z /7 2 0 mL D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 )
garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place the pork loin on a rack in a roasting pan of appropriate size.
2 . Roast at 375°F/igi°C for 1 hour, basting from time to time. Scatter the mirepoix around the pork and con tinue to roast until an instant-read thermometer in
1 . Cut a pocket in each chop and refrigerate until the stuffing is prepared and properly cooled.
2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until golden brown, 8 to
serted in the center of the meat registers 145°F/63°C,
10 minutes. Add the celery and garlic and cook until the
30 to 45 minutes more.
celery is limp, 8 to 10 minutes more. Spread out on a
3 . Remove the pork from the roasting pan and allow it to rest for 20 minutes before carving.
4 . To prepare the jus lie, place the roasting pan on the
sheet pan and allow to cool completely.
3 . Combine the onion mixture with the bread crumbs, parsley, and sage. Season with the salt and pepper. Add
stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and
enough of the stock to make a stuffing that is moist but
the fat is clear, about 5 minutes. Pour off all the fat.
not wet. Chill the stuffing until it reaches 40°F/4°C.
Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently,
4 . Divide the stuffing into 10 equal portions and place 1
until it has a sweet aroma and brick-red color, 30 to
portion into the cavity of each pork chop. Secure the
45 seconds. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. Re
chops closed with skewers.
duce the wine slightly to cook off the alcohol flavor.
5 . Add the stock, stirring to release the fond completely.
5 . Season the chops with salt and pepper. Heat the re maining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a large saute pan over
Add the thyme and bay leaf, and simmer the jus for
high heat. Sear the pork chops until golden brown on
20 to 30 minutes, or until it reaches the proper con
both sides. Transfer to a sheet pan and finish cooking
sistency and flavor. Add slurry to thicken the sauce
in a 350°F/i77°C oven to an internal temperature of
enough to coat the back of a spoon. Degrease and
145°F/63°C.
adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. 6 . Strain the jus lie through a fine-mesh sieve and keep it hot for service. Carve the pork loin into portions and serve immediately with the jus lie.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Pork Roast with Jus Lie
(5 . Meanwhile, pour off any excess oil from the saute pan. Add the demi-glace and bring to a simmer. Degrease the sauce if necessary. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve the stuffed pork chops with the sauce.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
465
Cantonese Roast Pork ( Cha r Si u) Makes 10 servings
5 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients. Pour the marinade over the pork in a hotel pan and massage it into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight, turning the meat occasionally. 6 . Remove the pork from the marinade and wipe off
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt
the excess (reserve excess marinade for glazing).
BRINE
Place the pork on a wire rack in a roasting pan.
1 g al/3.84 L water 4 o z /1 1 3 g s a lt 4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
7 . Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of the oven, and set the oven to 325°F/i63°C. 8 . Place the pork in the oven and roast, glazing ev ery 30 minutes with the reserved marinade, until
Peel of 1 orange
it reaches an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C,
1 cinnamon stick
about 1V2 hours.
1 tb sp /6 g black peppercorns 1 tb sp /6 g Szechwan peppercorns
9 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve garnished with green onions or chop and use to fill pork buns.
3 star anise pods V i o z/1 4 g ginger, crushed 10 dried Chinese chiles 1 bunch green onions, bruised MARINADE 3 f I o z/9 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) or Brown Pork Stock (page 264) 2 fl o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing) I V 2 o z/4 3 g brown sugar 2 tb s p /3 0 mL mushroom soy sauce 4 ts p /2 0 mL hoisin sauce 1 tbsp brown bean paste 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil 1 ts p /3 g Chinese Five-Spice Powder (page 368)
5 o z /1 4 2 g sliced green onions
1 . Cut the pork into rectangles 3 by 8 by 3 in/8 by 20 by 8 cm. Refrigerate until the brine is ready.
2 . Bring the water for the brine to a boil and add the re maining brine ingredients. Stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Cool the brine to room temperature.
3 . Place the pork in the cooled brine, cover, and refrig erate for 8 hours or overnight.
4 . Remove the pork from the brine, pat dry, and discard the brine.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Guava Barbecue Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 ml
Makes 10 servings 12 o z/3 4 0 g guava marmalade MARINADE 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL water 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL red wine vinegar 8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped onion 2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped cilantro 2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano '/ 2
o z/1 4 g ground cumin
2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper 10 garlic cloves
13 lb /5.90 kg pork baby back ribs 24 fl o z /7 2 0 mL Guava Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste 1 o z/2 8 g molasses 1 o z/2 8 g dry mustard 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 3/ t o z/2 1 g minced garlic 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry 1 Scotch bonnet, minced 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice
1 . In a medium saucepan, combine the marmalade, to 1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a blender and puree.
2 .. Place the ribs in a large, nonreactive container and coat with the marinade. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
3 . Transfer the ribs and marinade to a rondeau or kettle
mato paste, molasses mustard, cumin, garlic, sherry, Scotch bonnet, and water. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Simmer the sauce for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
3 . Add the lime juice when the sauce has cooled. The
and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain off the liquid and
sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for
allow the ribs to cool.
later use.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs
4 . Place the ribs on roasting racks on sheet pans. Roast the ribs for 20 to 25 minutes in a 350°F/i77°C oven. Brush the barbecue sauce on both sides of the ribs and roast for 8 to 10 minutes more. Brush the ribs with sauce again, turn so the meaty side is up, and roast the ribs for 8 to 10 minutes more, until they are well glazed.
5 . Serve immediately.
ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO ASTIN G
467
Makes 10 servings
North Carolina Western Barbecue Sauce
12 lb /5.44 kg pork butt
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
1 o z /2 8 g s a lt
r
V i o z/1 4 g ground black pepper
4’/ 2 t s p /9 g paprika
10 sandwich buns, split and toasted
472 ts p /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina Piedmont Sauce (recipe follows)
4'/z ts p /9 g dry mustard
/2
o z/4 3 g brown sugar
1 ts p /3 g s a lt 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL North Carolina Western Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Mustard Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
3/ t ts p /1 .50 g cayenne 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Worcestershire sauce 6 fl o z/2 4 0 mL white vinegar 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL ketchup
1 . Season the pork butt with the salt and pepper. Roast in a 300°F/i49°C oven until tender, about 5 hours.
2 . Remove the pork from the oven and allow it to cool slightly. When cool enough to handle, shred or chop the pork.
3 . For each portion, serve about 6 oz/170 g of the pork on a toasted bun with the sauces on the side.
2 flo z /6 0 m L w a te r
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust sea soning with salt and cayenne, if necessary. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
North Carolina Piedmont Sauce
Mustard Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce)
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL white vinegar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
15 f I o z/4 5 0 mL cider vinegar
1 lb /4 5 4 g chopped onion
3'/> ts p /7 g red pepper flakes
I V 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic
3 tb sp /4 5 mLTabasco sauce
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white vinegar
l 3/ t o z /50
11 f I o z/3 3 0 mL spicy brown mustard
g sugar
4 ts p /8 g cracked black peppercorns
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Carolina Barbecue
2 ts p /4 g celery seed 3’/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute.
2 . Add the remaining ingredients and bring the mixture to a simmer to melt the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the flavors to blend, about 30 min utes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . The sauce is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use. c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
469
Pork Butt with Coleslaw
l ’/ 2 o z/4 3 g sugar l
'/ 2
ts p /3 g celery seed
1 tb s p /1 5 mL hot sauce
Makes 10 servings
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
2 3/t o z /7 8 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2'A
o z/6 4 g coarsely ground black pepper
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g shredded green cabbage
13A
o z/5 0 g adobo spice
7 '/* o z/2 0 6 g shredded carrots
13 lb 10 o z/6.18 kg bone-in pork butt l
’/ 2
q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (page 475)
1 . Combine the salt, pepper, and adobo spice in a
small bowl to create a dry rub. MAYONNAISE
2
.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water
Locate and remove the gland on the pork butt lo cated opposite the blade bone.
3 . Rub the spice mixture over the pork butt. Mari
1 tb sp /1 5 mL white wine vinegar
nate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight or up to
'A o z/7 g Dijon mustard
24 hours.
4 . Allow the meat to rest at room temperature for at
’/4 ts p /1 .2 5 g sugar
least 1 hour before smoking.
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL vegetable oil 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice 1 ts p /3 g salt
.
Place the pork butts in the smoker fat side up, leav
7 . Smoke the pork until very tender, with an internal temperature of 170°F/77°C, 10 to 12 hours. Final
COLESLAW 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL sour cream 2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar '/2
6
ing no more than 1 in/3 cm between the butts.
2 pinches ground white pepper
3
5 . Preheat the smoker to i95°F/9i°C.
ts p /7 g dry mustard
smoking time will depend on the size of the butts. Remove the pork from the smoker and remove the bone. Allow the pork to rest for 45 minutes.
9 . Use your fingers or two forks to pull apart the meat. Warm the barbecue sauce. Combine the meat with just enough sauce to coat. Hold the meat and sauce warm, separately, for service. To make the mayonnaise, combine the yolks, wa ter, vinegar, mustard, and sugar in a medium bowl. Whisk until slightly foamy. Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly beating with the whisk until the oil is incorporated and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick. Season with the salt, pepper, and lemon juice. To make the coleslaw, combine the prepared mayonnaise, sour cream, vinegar, mustard, sugar, celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl and mix until smooth. Season with the salt and pepper. Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly When the b u tt is smoked properly, the bone w ill slide out easily.
470
The smoked meat should be tender enough to easily pull apart w ith your fingers.
M EAT S, P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
coated. Serve 10V2 oz/297 g of the finished sauced pork with 4 oz/113 g ° f the prepared coleslaw and some of the barbecue sauce.
Smoked Brisket with Sweet Rickies
1 . Remove excess fat from the cap, leaving only V2 to % in/i to 2 cm on the surface of the meat. Do not re move the deckle.
2.
Makes 10 servings
Combine the salt, chili powder, paprika, pepper, gar lic powder, and onion powder in a small bowl. Rub
20 lb /9.07 kg beef brisket, cap on
the spice mixture evenly over the brisket. Rest the
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g salt
brisket overnight in the refrigerator, covered.
2 o z/5 7 g dark chili powder
3 . Let the brisket sit out at room temperature for 1 hour prior to smoking.
l 3/ i o z/5 0 g paprika V A o z/3 5 g coarsely ground black pepper
4 . Preheat smoker to i95°F/9i°C (see Note).
3A o z/21 g garlic powder
5 . Place the brisket into the smoker fat side up, leaving about 1 in/3 cm between pieces of meat. Smoke the
3/ * o z/21 g onion powder
meat until very tender, 10 to 12 hours (about 1 hour per pound).
SWEET PICKLES 2 lb /9 0 7 g cucumbers (Kirby)
6 . To make the sweet pickles, wash the cucumbers and
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions
slice them about lA in/6 mm thick. Slice the onions %
12 f 1o z/3 60 mL cider vinegar
in/6 mm thick.
7 . Combine the cucumbers, onions, cider vinegar, salt,
V A ts p /5 g salt
mustard seeds, 1 tbsp/15 g of the sugar, and the water '/> ts p /2 g mustard seeds
in a large nonreactive sauce pot. Simmer for 10 min
14 o z /3 9 7 g sugar
utes. Drain and transfer to a storage container.
1 q t/9 6 0 m L water
8 . Bring the white vinegar, celery seed, allspice, turmeric, and the remaining sugar to a boil in a medium pot.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 g white vinegar 1 tb s p /1 4 g celery seed
9 . Pour the vinegar mixture over the cucumbers and onions. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days before
V/2 ts p /5 g allspice, crushed
serving. The pickles can now be stored, refrigerated,
1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Chef Clark's SouthwestStyle Sauce (recipe follows)
for up to 1 week.
1 0 . Serve the brisket with the sweet pickles and some of the Southwest-style sauce. NOTE: Keep the smoker tem perature around 195°F/91°C. At this tem perature the fa t on the surface w ill melt, rather than boil, as it can do at higher temperatures.
Chef Clark's Southwest-Style Sauce Makes 20 fl oz/6oo mL 2 o z/5 7 g butter 4 3/ * o z/1 3 5 g diced onion '/ 2
0 z /1 4 g garlic
1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles 1 o z/2 8 g Chili Powder (page 36 8 or purchased) It is vita l to apply the spice rub evenly.
472
Ideally the finished brisket should have a smoke ring o f V a to V 2 in/6 to 13 mm.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
4 o z /1 13 g strong brewed coffee 4Y4 o z/1 2 8 g Worcestershire sauce
2 fl o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar l 3/4 o z/5 0 g brown sugar V 2 o z /1 4 g cornstarch 2 fl o z/6 0 mL water
J . Stir in the chili powder and continue to cook until the flavor of the chili powder is developed, 2 to 3 minutes more.
4 . Stir in the coffee, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, vinegar, and sugar. Simmer until good flavor devel ops, about 45 minutes.
5 . Whisk the cornstarch with the water in a small bowl 1 . Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat until translucent, 4 to 5 minutes.
2 . Add the garlic and chiles and cook until the mixture is aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes more.
until it is smooth. 6 . Stir the slurry into the sauce to adjust the thickness. Bring the sauce back to a boil before cooling.
7 . The sauce is now ready to use or can be stored, re frigerated, for up to 1 week.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL ketchup
473
Barbecue Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Makes lVi qt/1.44 L
2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
1 q t/9 6 0 mL ketchup
4 ts p /8 g dried thyme
9 o z/2 5 5 g white wine vinegar
1 tb sp /6 g coarsely ground black pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g water
3 tb s p /1 8 g celery seed
3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g dark brown sugar
4 tb s p /2 4 g paprika
2 '/2
3 tb sp /31 g onion powder
3/ t o z/21 g paprika
27 lb /1 2 .2 5 kg St. Louis-style spare ribs
V * o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
r
3/ t o z/21 g dry mustard
/2
q t/1 .4 4 L Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Coleslaw (page 470)
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
St. Louis-Style Ribs
f I o z/7 5 mL Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp /6.5 g salt l ’/ 2 t s p /3 g cayenne
1 . Combine the salt, thyme, pepper, celery seed, pa prika, and onion powder in a medium bowl. Rub
Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and pro
the mixture evenly over the spare ribs. Rest the ribs,
cess until smooth. Use immediately or refrigerate.
covered, in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight.
The sauce can be stored for up to 3 weeks.
2 . Preheat the smoker to i95°F/9i°C (see Note). 3 . Smoke the ribs until the meat pulls away from the rib tips by 3/s to Vi in/9 t0 13 mm>about 4V2 hours. The meat should easily remove from the bone and the bone should appear dry within 10 to 15 seconds.
4 . Remove the ribs from the smoker. Brush both sides with some of the barbecue sauce. Place the ribs pre sentation side down on the rods of a hot grill. Grill undisturbed until the sauce begins to caramelize. Turn the ribs over and grill until the sauce on the second side begins to caramelize.
5 . Portion the ribs and serve with the barbecue sauce and coleslaw. NOTE: Many types o f wood can be used; the traditional choices are hickory, cherry, or mesquite.
Cut the finished ribs into individual portions.
ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G
475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu/
Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 tb sp /4 5 mL dark soy sauce
9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note)
3 tb s p /4 5 m L sherry
I V 4 o z/3 5 g salt
5 pork spare rib racks, trimmed
1 tb sp /6 gground black pepper
MARINADE
1 o z/2 8 g slivered garlic
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL hoisin sauce
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes, sliced Ve in /3 mm thick
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Chinese black bean sauce 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL ketchup 1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic 2 ts p /6 g minced ginger 1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper ’/ 2
o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onions
2 f I o z/6 0 mL Chinese rice wine (Shaoxing) 2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g thinly sliced onion 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Brown Lamb Stock (page 264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
1 . Season the lamb with some of the salt and pepper and stud it with the slivered garlic.
2 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast at
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
400°F/204°C for 1 hour, basting from time to time.
3Vz o z/9 9 g sugar
Remove the lamb from the pan and pour off the fat.
LACQUER COATING 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL honey 1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil
3 . Layer the potatoes and onions in the roasting pan, seasoning the layers with the remaining salt and pepper. Add enough stock to moisten well.
4 . Place the lamb on the potatoes. Continue to roast until the desired doneness, or to a minimum inter
1 . Combine the soy sauce and sherry and brush on the ribs.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour over the ribs in a deep hotel pan and massage it into the meat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or over night, turning occasionally.
3 . Remove the ribs from the marinade and wipe off the excess. Place the ribs on a wire rack in a roasting pan.
4
.
nal temperature of 145°F/63°C. The potatoes should be tender.
5 . Remove the roasting pan from the oven and allow the lamb to rest before carving. 6 . Heat the jus de veau lie over medium heat while the lamb rests.
7 . Carve the lamb into slices. For each portion, place 3
Fill a hotel pan with water, place it in the bottom of
oz/85 g potatoes and onions on a heated plate. Top with 6 oz/170 g roasted lamb and ladle 2 fl oz/6o mL
the oven, and set the oven to 325°F/i63°C.
sauce over the lamb. Serve at once.
5 . Place the ribs in the oven and roast until they reach an internal temperature of 150°F/66°C, about 1V2 hours. 6 . To make the lacquer coating, combine the honey and sesame oil. During the last 20 minutes of roasting, brush the ribs with the mixture.
7 . Remove the ribs from the oven and allow them to rest for 10 minutes. Cut the racks in half, or into in dividual ribs, before serving.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44 kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.
Makes 8 servings
Persillade Makes 12 oz/340 g 5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs 2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
Two 2 -lb /9 0 7 -g frenched racks of lamb V A o z/3 5 g chopped parsley 2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil 3V2 o z/9 9 g butter, melted lt b s p /lO g s a lt 2 ts p /6 .5 g s a lt V A ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 tsp /1 g chopped rosemary
Mix all the ingredients together to make an evenly
1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme
moistened mixture. Place in a tightly sealed con
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
tainer and refrigerate or use as needed.
V A q t/1 .2 0 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 12 o z/3 4 0 g Persillade (recipe follows)
1 . Lightly brush the lamb with oil, season with salt and pepper, and rub with the chopped rosemary and thyme. Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan.
2 . Roast at 400°F/204°C for 15 minutes, basting pe riodically with rendered juices and fat. Scatter the mirepoix around the lamb, reduce the heat to 325°F/i63°C, and continue to roast to the desired internal doneness. Transfer the lamb to a sheet pan and keep warm.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Roast Rack o f kamb Persille
3 . To make the jus, place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Deglaze with the stock, stirring to release the fond completely. Simmer until it reaches the desired consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and adjust season ing with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and keep warm.
4 . Spread half of the persillade on top of each rack of lamb. Return the lamb to the oven until the persil lade is lightly browned.
5 . Cut the lamb into chops and serve with the sauce.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , BR O IL IN G , A N D R O AS TIN G
477
Roasted Shoulder o f Lamb and Couscous
5 . Cover the lamb and continue to cook until the meat is extremely tender, 2 to 3 hours. Check the waterand-oil level every 30 minutes and add water if it appears too low.
( M e c h o u i ) Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, soft 2 o z/5 7 g garlic, mashed to a paste with a pinch of salt
6 . Remove the meat and keep it warm. Place the roast ing pan on the stovetop.
7 . Degrease the liquid in the pan. Gradually add the slurry, whisking constantly. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3/ t o z/2 1 g chopped parsley
8 . Combine all the ingredients for the condiment mix.
3/ t o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro
9 . Thinly slice the lamb and serve immediately with
1 tb sp /6 g dried thyme 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 1 tb sp /6 g paprika 10 lb /4.54 kg lamb shoulder, square cut, excess fa t and silverskin removed 1 o z /2 8 g salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water, or as needed 1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, mixed with 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water to make a slurry CONDIMENT 1 tb s p /1 0 g coarse salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg Couscous (page 826), hot
1 . Mix the butter with the garlic, parsley, cilantro, thyme, cumin, and paprika.
2 . Season the lamb with about l tsp/3 g of the salt and Vi tsp/0.50 g of the pepper. Coat the lamb with the seasoned butter.
3 . Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan. Add enough of the oil and water to cover the bottom of the pan but not touch the lamb. (The amount need ed will depend on the size of pan used.)
4 . Roast uncovered in a 350°F/i77°C oven, basting ev ery 15 minutes, until a deep caramel color develops, about 45 minutes.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
the couscous and condiment mix.
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs
beans are tender but not mushy, about 30 minutes more. Remove the bay leaves and parsley sprigs and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Set aside to keep warm.
( G i g o t
a
lo
B r e t o n n e )
Makes 10 servings
4 . While the beans are cooking, heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed saute pan and add the remaining onions and chopped garlic. Saute over low heat, stir
HARICOTS BLANCS
ring, until golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the toma
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried haricots blancs
toes and thyme. Cook over medium heat, stirring
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g chopped onion
from time to time, for 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, and add to the beans.
5 . Make some incisions into the leg and slip in the sliv
3/ t o z/21 g chopped garlic
ers of garlic. Rub with the oil and season with salt
2 bay leaves
and pepper.
2 parsley sprigs 1 tb sp /10 g salt r
/2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
6 . Sear the lamb on all sides in a roasting pan on the stovetop.
7 . Place in a 400°F/204°C oven. After 15 minutes, add the boiling water to the roasting pan. Roast, basting
1 o z/2 8 g butter
the lamb with the pan juices from time to time, until
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomatoes
an instant-read thermometer registers a minimum of
V 2 ts p /0.50 g thyme leaves
roasting pan and let it rest in a warm spot.
LAMB 9 lb /4.08 kg bone-in lamb leg (see Note) V t. o z/1 4 g slivered garlic ltb s p /1 5 m L olive oil
145°F/63°C, about 1 hour. Remove the lamb from the 8 . Degrease the roasting pan. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce by half. Stir the pan juices into the beans. If necessary, bring the beans back up to serv ing temperature.
9 . Slice the lamb and serve it on a bed of the beans.
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt r
/2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL boiling water 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short soak method (see page 753). Drain the soaked beans.
2 . Cover the beans with water in a large soup pot and bring to a boil. Skim off all the scum that rises to the top, remove from the heat and drain. In the same pot, heat the oil and add 4 oz/113 g of the onions and 2 tsp/6 g of the chopped garlic. Cook over low heat until the onions begin to soften. Return the beans to the pot and add enough cold water to cover by 2 in/5 cm. Bring to a boil, add the bay leaves and parsley sprigs, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes.
3 . Add the salt and an additional 2 tsp/6 g of the chopped garlic. Cover and continue to cook until the
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
NOTE: A leg o f lamb w ill range from 9 to 12 lb/4.08 to 5.44 kg and can yield 10 to 15 servings.
Makes 10 servings
Salt Herbs Makes 2 oz/57 g V A o z/3 5 g salt 4 ts p /4 g rosemary leaves
6 lb /2.72 kg boneless lamb leg 4 ts p /4 g thyme leaves 3/ t oz/21 g Salt Herbs (recipe follows) 1 ts p /2 g black peppercorns '/ 2
o z/1 4 g minced garlic 6 bay leaves
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 4 o z /l l B g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
Combine all the ingredients in a clean spice grinder
M IN T SAUCE
tight container and let rest for 12 hours before using.
and grind to a medium-fine powder. Put in an air
24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293) 2 o z/5 7 g mint stems or sprigs 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt V/ 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 1 o z/2 8 g mint chiffonade
1 . Rub the lamb on all sides with the salt herbs and gar lic. Marinate, covered, in the refrigerator overnight.
2 . Roll and tie the roast. Rub it with oil and place it on a rack in a roasting pan.
3 . Roast at 350°F/i77°C for 45 minutes, basting from time to time.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Roast Leg o f Lamb with Mint Sauce
4 . Scatter the mirepoix around the lamb and continue to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers a minimum of 145°F/63°C, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Remove the lamb from the roasting pan and allow it to rest.
5 . To make the mint sauce, place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook until the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all the fat. Add the demiglace, stirring to release the fond completely. Add the mint stems and simmer until the sauce reaches the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and season with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Finish with mint chiffonade. 6 . Carve the lamb into portions and serve it with the mint sauce.
ch a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
481
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy
Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ffin g
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each), wing tips removed and reserved
Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g chicken leg quarters DUXELLES STUFFING
2 o z/5 7 g salt 6 o z/1 7 0 g minced shallot 4 ts p /8 g ground white pepper 2 o z/5 7 g butter 5 thyme sprigs 2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice mushrooms 5 rosemary sprigs lt b s p /lO g s a lt 5 bay leaves 2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper 5 f 1o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g large-dice Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243)
8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream that has been reduced by half 8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley V/ 4 q t/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3), hot 2 o z/5 7 g butter, melted
1 . Season the cavity of each chicken with salt and pep per. Place l sprig each of thyme and rosemary and l
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)
bay leaf inside each cavity.
2 . Rub the skin of the chickens with butter and truss each chicken with twine.
3 . Place chickens, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting pan in a 450°F/232°C oven. Scatter the wing tips in the pan. Once the chickens have developed a golden brown appearance, turn down the temperature to 3 5 0 °F /i7 7 °C .
4 . Roast for 45 minutes, basting from time to time. Scatter the mirepoix around the chickens and con tinue to roast until the thigh meat registers an inter nal temperature of i65°F/74°C.
5 . Remove the chickens from the roasting pan and al low them to rest. Hold warm. 6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the fat.
1 . Bone out the chicken legs. Lay the meat between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap. Pound the legs flat with a mallet. Refrigerate until needed.
2 . To make the duxelles stuffing, sweat the shallots in the butter in a sautoir over medium-high heat until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and saute them until dry to create a duxelles. Season the duxelles with some of the salt and pepper.
3 . Add the cream, bread crumbs, and parsley and mix well. If desired, the duxelles can be chilled now and reserved for later use.
4 . Season the chicken legs with the remaining salt and pepper. Portion 3 oz/85 g of the duxelles onto each chicken leg. Fold the meat over the stuffing and place the stuffed legs on a rack in a roasting pan with the seam side down.
5 . Brush the chicken legs with the melted butter.
7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 2 minutes,
Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven, basting occasionally,
Whisk in the stock until completely smooth.
until a thermometer inserted in the center of the
8 . Simmer the gravy at about i 8 o°F/82°C until it
legs reaches a temperature of i65°F/74°C, 25 to 30
reaches the proper consistency and flavor, 20 to 30
minutes. The chicken legs should be a light golden
minutes. Degrease and adjust seasoning with salt
brown.
and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
9 . Cut the chickens in half and serve them immediately with the pan gravy.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
6 . Serve each chicken leg on a heated plate with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the sauce.
Makes 10 servings Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g boneless, skinless chicken breasts ’/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper MARINADE
Breast o f Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat Makes 10 servings
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL apple cider Ten 1 lb 4 -o z /5 6 7 -g Rock Cornish game hens 2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom Forcemeat (recipe follows)
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt l
1 . Rinse the chicken, pat dry, season with salt and pep per, and place in a shallow hotel pan.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade and
'/ 2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter, melted 2 0 f I o z /6 0 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463)
pour over the chicken, turning to coat evenly. Mari nate, covered, in the refrigerator for 3 hours or up to overnight.
3 . Place the chicken on a rack over lightly dampened hardwood chips in a roasting pan. Cover tightly and heat in a 450°F/232°C oven until the smell of smoke
1 . Remove the breasts from the hens and make them into supremes. Refrigerate until needed. Remove the leg and thigh meat and prepare the mushroom force meat.
2 . Loosen the skin from the breast meat. Season the
is apparent, 6 to 8 minutes. Smoke for 3 minutes
breasts on all sides with salt and pepper. Pipe about
from that point. Transfer the chicken to a baking pan
2 oz/57 g ° f the forcemeat between the skin and
and finish roasting (without smoke) in a 350°F/i77°C
meat of each breast. Smooth the surface to spread
oven until cooked through (i65°F/74°C), 10 to 12
the forcemeat evenly.
minutes more.
4 . Serve immediately or cool and refrigerate until needed.
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
Pan-Smoked Chicken
3 . Place the stuffed breasts in a baking dish. Brush lightly with butter. Roast in a preheated 35o°F/i77°C oven to an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 20 to 25 minutes. Baste with additional butter or any pan juices during baking time.
4 . Heat the Madeira sauce and serve 2 fl oz/6o mL with each breast (2 supremes). NOTE: Optional plating: slice each breast on a slight diagonal into 4 slices and fan the slices out on a warm plate.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
483
Mushroom Forcemeat Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg 12 o z/3 4 0 g Rock Cornish game hens leg and thigh meat, small dice (see Note)
Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade Makes 10 servings
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
Five 5 lb 8 -o z/2 .5 0 -k g ducklings
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
T/2
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
oz/ 7
1 g minced bacon
1 o z /2 8 g butter
25 parsley stems
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
5 thyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, minced
5 bay leaves
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced white mushrooms
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced morels
SAUCE BIGARADE
1 thyme sprig
3A o z/2 1g su g a r
1 bay leaf
ltb s p /1 5 m L water
4 sage leaves
2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Madeira
2 tb sp /3 0 mL cider vinegar
le g g
3 fl o z/9 0 mL blood orange juice
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
1 . Season the meat with salt and pepper and refrigerate until needed.
2 . Place the bacon and butter in a saute pan over me dium heat. Render the bacon until crisp. Add the
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 5 blood oranges
shallots and garlic and saute until aromatic. Add all the mushrooms and sweat until barely tender. Add the thyme, bay leaf, sage, and Madeira. Reduce until
1 . Rinse and trim the ducklings, removing the fat from the body cavity (reserve for another use, if desired).
almost dry. Remove and discard the bay leaf, thyme,
Place the ducklings, breast side up, on a rack in a
and sage. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
roasting pan. Season them with salt and pepper.
Chill the mixture to below 40°F/4°C.
Place 5 parsley stems, 1 thyme sprig, and 1 bay leaf
3 . Process the diced meat and egg to a paste in a food processor, scraping down the bowl periodically. Add the cream and pulse the machine on and off until
into the cavity of each bird.
2 . Roast the ducklings at 425°F/2i8°C until the juices run barely pink and the thigh meat registers
the cream is just incorporated. Transfer to a bowl.
i65°F/74°C, about 1 hour. Remove the ducklings
Fold in the cooled mushroom mixture. Hold chilled
from the pan and rest for at least 10 minutes before
until ready to use.
carving.
NOTE: This forcem eat can be prepared using any lean diced poultry meat to replace the leg and thigh meat from the game hens.
3 . Degrease and deglaze the pan with the stock. Strain and reserve the drippings.
4 . While the duck is roasting, make the sauce. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan. Cook over me dium heat until the sugar melts and caramelizes to a deep golden brown, about 1 minute.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
well and simmer over medium-high heat until re duced by half, about 1 minute. Stir to dissolve any lumps. 6 . Add the demi-glace and stock and bring the sauce to a boil. Add the reserved pan drippings. Reduce the
with Pan Gravy and Chestnut S tu ffin g Makes 10 servings
heat and simmer over medium heat until a good fla vor and consistency develops, about 15 minutes. Sea
13 lb /5.90 kg whole turkey
son with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
cheesecloth and reserve warm.
7 . Remove the zest from the blood oranges, cut it into julienne, and blanch. Cut the flesh of the oranges into supremes. 8 . Carve the duck for service by cutting away the breast from the rib and cutting the leg away from the body. Place the duck pieces on a sizzler platter, overlap
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 2 onions, peeled and quartered 12 to 15 parsley stems 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clarified butter, soft, or vegetable oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
ping the leg and breast portions, skin side facing up.
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
Brush the duckling with a small amount of the sauce
40 fl o z/1 .2 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
and reheat in a 45O°F/2320C oven until it is crisp, about 5 minutes.
9 . Pool 2 fl oz/6o mL of the sauce on each plate and place the duckling on the sauce. Garnish with the blanched orange zest and orange segments.
2 lb 12 o z/1 .2 5 kg Chestnut Stuffing (page 486)
1 . Season the cavity of the turkey with salt and pepper. Place the quartered onions and parsley stems inside the cavity.
2 . Rub the skin of the turkey with the butter and truss with twine.
3 . Place the turkey, breast side up, on a rack in a roast
grilling, broiling, and roasting recipes
5 . Add the wine, vinegar, and blood orange juice. Mix
ing pan.
4 . Roast at 350°F/i77°C for 3 hours, basting from time to time.
5 . Scatter the mirepoix around the turkey and continue to roast until the thigh meat registers an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Remove the turkey from the roasting pan and allow it to rest. 6 . Place the roasting pan on the stovetop and cook un til the mirepoix is browned and the fat is clear. Pour off all but 2 tbsp/30 mL of the fat.
7 . Add the flour and cook the roux for 4 to 5 minutes, until golden. Whisk in the stock until completely smooth. 8 . Simmer the gravy until it reaches the proper consis tency and flavor, 20 to 30 minutes. Degrease and ad just seasoning with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Carve the turkey in portions and serve it with the pan gravy and chestnut stuffing.
c h a p te r 17 » G R IL L IN G , B R O IL IN G , A N D RO AS TING
485
4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon fat or butter
Salmon Fillet with Smoked Salmon and Florseradish Crust
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cubed day-old bread
Makes 10 servings
Chestnut Stuffing Makes 2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot !e g g 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 1 tsp /1 g chopped sage 8 o z/2 2 7 g shelled, peeled, roasted chestnuts, chopped 1 ts p /3 g salt V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Saute the onions in the bacon fat until tender. Combine the bread, stock, and egg and add to the
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg salmon fillet, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lime juice 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 2 ts p /6 g minced shallot 2 ts p /4 g crushed black peppercorns CRUMB MIXTURE I V 2 ts p /4.50 g minced shallot
V ats p /2 .2 5 g minced garlic 3 o z /8 5 g butter
onion. Add the parsley, sage, chestnuts, salt, and
5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs
pepper. Mix well.
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced smoked salmon
Place the stuffing in a buttered hotel pan and cover
1 o z/2 8 g prepared horseradish
with parchment paper. Bake at 350°F/i77°C for 45
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Beurre Blanc (page 298)
minutes. Serve immediately.
1 . Rub the salmon fillets with the lime juice, garlic, shallots, and peppercorns. Refrigerate while making the crumb mixture.
2 . To make the crumb mixture, saute the shallots and garlic in the butter until aromatic, about 1 minute.
3 . Combine the sauteed shallots and garlic, bread crumbs, smoked salmon, and horseradish in a food processor and process to a fine consistency.
4 . Portion about 1 oz/28 g of the crumb mixture onto each fillet.
5 . Bake the salmon in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it is opaque pink on the outside and just beginning to flake, 6 to 7 minutes. 6 . Serve the salmon on heated plates with the beurre blanc.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
sauteing,
The cooking techniques presented in this chapter rely on a fat or oil as the cooking medium. As the amount of fat varies from a thin film to enough to completely submerge foods, different effects are achieved.
S
auteing
C
ertain m e n u
is a t e c h n i q u e t h a t c o o k s items listed a s s e a r e d
ess e n t ia lly s a u t e e d
. (Th
a
traditio nal
.) S
(f
o n d
)
s a u t e
l e f t in t h e p a n
,a
food
/
pan
rapidly
-s
e a r e d
in a l i t t l e
,c
h a r r e d
/
fat o ver
pan
-c
r elatively
h a r r e d
,or
pan
high
-bro
heat
.
iled are
o s e t e r m s h a v e c o m e to s u g g e s t t h a t e v e n l e s s o i l is u s e d t h a n f o r
a u t eed
dishes
n d a r e co o ked
t y p ic a lly
include
in a n a l a m i n u t e o r
a
sa u c e
"j u
m a d e
s t in t i m e
"
w ith
the
fa sh io n
drippings
.
sauteing Searing may be a f ir s t ste p f o r some roasted, braised, or stew ed foo ds; the y are cooked q u ickly in a sm all a m ount o f o il over d ire c t heat. The d iffe re n c e betw een searing and s a u te ing is n o t how the tech niq ue is pe rfo rm e d , b u t th a t tho se fo o d s are n o t cooked co m p le te ly as a resu lt. Searing is used w ith tho se cooking m ethods as an e ffe c tiv e way to develop fla v o r and co lo r in con ju nction w ith longer, slo w er cooking. S tir-fry in g , associated w ith Asian cooking and succe ssfully adapted by innovative W estern chefs, shares many s im ila ritie s w ith sauteing. Foods are c u sto m a rily cut in to sm all pieces— usually s trip s, dice, or shre ds— and cooked rap id ly in a little oil. They are added to th e pan in sequence; th o se re q u irin g th e lo ng est cooking tim e s are added fir s t, tho se th a t cook q u ickly only a t the la st m om ent. The sauce fo r a s tir-fry , like th a t o f a saute, is made or fin is h e d in the pan to cap ture th e dish's e n tire flavo r. Typically, a th in -w a lle d w ok is used fo r a s tir - fr y w h ile a saute pan is used in th e sauteing m ethod. Choose cuts fo r sautes o f beef, veal, lamb, pork, and large game animals fro m the rib or loin, and some p o rtio n s o f the leg. These cuts are the m ost tender. P ou ltry and game bird breasts are o fte n p re fe rre d fo r sauteing. Firm or m oderately te x tu re d fis h are easier to sau te than very delicate fish . S hellfish, in and out o f the shell, also saute well. S elect the cooking fa t according to the fla v o r you w ant to create, fo o d cost, a va ila bility, and smoke point. The base f o r a pan sauce fo r a saute may va ry to s u it the fla v o r o f the main item . Brown sauces such as dem i-glace or ju s lie, veloutes, glace (reduced stocks), veg etab le coulis, or to m a to sauce may be used. C onsult sp e c ific recipes. A saute pan (also called a sauteuse) has sho rt, sloped sides and is w id e r than it is ta ll to encourage rapid evaporation. It is made o f a m e ta l th a t responds qu ickly to rapid heat changes. W oks are used to prepare s tir frie s . Pan-seared and p a n -b roiled ite m s are o fte n p repared in heavy-gauge pans th a t re ta in heat, such as ca st-iro n sk ille ts . Have ton gs o r spatulas available to tu rn fo o d s and rem ove the m fro m the pan, holding pans to reserve fo o d s w h ile a sauce is prepared or finishe d, and all a p p ro p ria te service ite m s (heated plates, garnishes, and accom panim ents).
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
basic formula Sauteing
Small amount of cooking fat or oil
(1 entree portion)
2 tbsp/30 mL liquid, for deglazing the pan
Salt and pepper, plus other 1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood (adjust portion size to account for bones, skin, or shells)
seasoning as required
2 fl oz/60 mL prepared sauce base, as appropriate
Aromatics and/or garnishes, for the pan sauce
Finishing ingredients, as appropriate
method at-a-glance Sauteing Saute the item on both sides in a hot pan and hot oil until properly browned. 2. Remove the main item
and finish it in an oven, if necessary. 3. Deglaze the pan. 4 . Add the liquid fo r the
sauce. Reduce the sauce. Add the finishing ingredients (except butter), if appropriate. Adjust seasoning to taste. Return the main item to the pan to reheat it, if necessary.
S tir-fry in g Heat the oil in a wok or large saute pan. Add the main item.
To develop additional flavor, season the item with
S tir-fry , keeping the food in constant motion.
additional ingredients prior to
Add additional ingredients, including aromatics, in the proper sequence (longestcooking firs t, shortestcooking last). Add the liquid fo r the sauce; add the thickener. 6. Serve the food immediately.
sauteing: M A R IN A D E S / SPIC E RUBS / D RIED SPIC ES
Add additional i n g r e d i e n t s depending on the desired result, after sauteing can further develop the flavor of the item: W HOLE B U TTE R / SAUCES / GLAZES
For a healthier option:
use
healthier fats such as olive oil to cook the main item.
Monte au beurre, if desired.
Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
1. season the food w ith sa lt and pepper, as w ell as spice blends or rubs i f a p pro pria te , ju s t b e fore cooking. Seasoning b e fo re cooking is more e ffe c tiv e than adding s a lt and pepper a t the end. D usting is op tion al and should be done ju s t b e fo re adding th e ite m to the pan. Flour w ill help to absorb excess m oistu re and prevent the item fro m stic k in g to the pan, and it w ill produce a good surface color fo r lig h t or w h ite m eats, p o u ltry, and fish. If done, be sure to coat th e ite m evenly and shake o f f any excess. S e le ct a pan o f th e a p p ro p ria te size; it should be large enough so th a t all pieces o f th e main ite m w ill ju s t cover th e b o tto m o f th e pan w ith o u t overlapping. H eat th e pan b e fo re adding the fa t; th is is re fe rre d to as co n d itio n in g th e pan. Add enough f a t to lig h tly film the pan. The m ore n a tural m a rb lin g o r f a t pre sen t in the foo d, the less fa t you w ill need in th e pan. W ell-seasoned or no n stick pans may n o t req uire any fa t beyond th a t which is already p re se n t in the fo o d . Bring the pan and th e cook ing fa t to th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re b e fo re adding th e food. To saute red m eats a n d /o r ve ry th in m eat pieces, heat the cooking f a t u n til th e surface rip p le s and looks hazy. Less intense heat is req uire d fo r w h ite m eats, fish , and she llfish
m eth o d in d etail
as w ell as th ic k e r cuts. Im m e d ia te ly add th e fo o d to th e pan. Place the food's p re s e n ta tio n side down o n to th e heated pan f ir s t fo r th e b e s t-lo o k in g s auteed foo ds. Cook on th e p re se n ta tio n side u n til brow ned or golden. L e t th e fo o d cook u n d istu rb e d f o r several seconds up to a m in ute or tw o to develop th e p ro p e r fla v o r and co lo r in th e fin is h e d saute. The fo o d may s tic k to th e pan a t f ir s t, b u t it w ill release its e lf by the tim e it is ready to be turned. Turn sauteed fo o d s only once to develop good fla v o r and color. Each tim e th e m eat is turne d, the te m p e ra tu re o f th e m ea t and pan drops. Sauteed fo o d s are also usually tu rn e d only once so th a t th e fo n d can develop in th e pan, although th e re are exceptions. Sauteed shrim p, m ea t cut in to emince, o r v eg etab le s, f o r exam ple, may be re p e a t edly to sse d o rtu rn e d . A d ju s t th e heat under th e saute pan if necessary to co m p le te coo kin g on th e s to ve to p . In som e cases, sau te e d fo o d may be fin is h e d in th e oven, e ith e r in th e saute pan or in a baking dish, sizzle r p la tte r, o r sheet pan. P rop er doneness depends upon th e fo o d its e lf, safe fo o d handling, and cu sto m e r p re fe ren ce. Be sure to allow fo r som e ca rryo ve r coo kin g so th a t fo o d s are not ove r done by th e tim e you are ready to p u t the m on a plate. For m ore in fo rm a tio n , review G eneral G uidelines fo r D e te r m ining Doneness (see page 366). Remove the fo o d fro m th e pan and to a holding pan in a w arm area w hile p re p a r ing a sauce d ire c tly in th e saute pan.
490
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
such as s to c k or w ine to
release th e brow ned drip p in g s, o r fon d, and to give the sauce a deep and cu sto m ize d fla vo r. To make a sauce in c o rp o ra tin g th e fo n d in th e saute pan, f ir s t rem ove any
sauteing
2. add a liquid
excess fa t. Add a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts or garnish item s th a t need to be cooked. Then deglaze th e pan, releasing th e reduced dripp ing s. W ine, sto ck, o r b ro th are com m only used f o r th is step.
3. reduce wine or stock u n til nearly dry (au sec). The sauce base (such as a se p a ra te ly pre pa red sauce, ju s lie, reduced s to ck, o r ve g e ta b le puree o r coulis) should be added to th e pan and b ro u g h t to a simm er. Cream, if called fo r, should be added along w ith th e sauce base so th a t it can reduce p ro p e rly along w ith th e base. Some sauces may need to be th icke n e d b e fo re th e y are served; i f so, add a sm all am o un t o f a pure starch s lu rry u n til th e c o rre c t co n siste n cy is reached.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
491
4. finish and garnish a pan sauce in one o f several ways. It may be stra in e d th ro u g h a fine -m esh s tra in e r f o r a ve ry sm oo th te x tu re b e fo re adding any fin is h in g or ga rnishin g in g re d ie n ts. S im m er fin is h in g and g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts in th e sauce long enough fo r them to be p ro p e rly heated. A d ju s t seasoning w ith sa lt, pepper, fre s h herbs, ju ices, essences, purees, o r s im ila r item s. A fte r a fin a l check to be sure th e seasoning is co rre ct, chefs o fte n o p t to re tu rn th e main ite m (a chicken bre ast o r veal scallop, f o r exam ple) to th e fin is h e d sauce b rie fly to co a t and g e n tly re h e a t it. If desired, a sm all am ount o f w h ole b u tte r may be added ju s t b e fo re serving (m o n te r au beurre) to add b o th fla v o r and body. The sauce may be spooned in a pool on th e p la te and th e fo o d se t on top, o r th e sauce m ay be spooned over th e fo o d (nappe) or spooned around th e fo o d (cordon). Be sure to w ipe away any d rip s on th e p la te w ith a clean clo th w ru ng o u t in hot w a te r b e fo re th e p la te is sen t to th e dinin g room . The ob je ct o f sauteing is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r th ro u g h p ro p e r brow ning, w hich serves to in te n s ify the fo o d 's fla vo r. W eak fla v o r and co lo r in d ica te th a t th e fo o d was sauteed a t to o low a te m p e ra tu re or th a t th e pan was to o crow ded. "Good co lo r" depends on th e ty p e o f fo o d . When sauteed w ell, red m eats and game should have a deep brow n e xte rio r. W h ite m eats (veal, pork, and p o u ltry ) should have a golden or am ber e xte rio r. Lean w h ite fis h should be pale go ld when sauteed as skinless fille ts , w hile firm fis h steaks, like tuna, should ta ke on a d a rker color. O nly n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s should be sauteed, and a f te r sau tein g th e y should rem ain te n d e r and m oist. Exces sive dryness is a sign th a t th e fo o d was overcooked, th a t it w as cooked to o fa r in advance and held to o long, or th a t it w as sauteed a t a te m p e ra tu re higher than necessary.
492
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Pa a
n
-fried
dish
of
fo o ds
h ave
intriguing
is p a i r e d w i t h
the
a
richly t e x t u r e d
c o n tr a sts
dish
,
cru st
in t e x t u r e
the e ffec t
can
and
ran g e
and
a
moist
fla v o r
fro m
. W
h o m e
-s
fl a v o r f u l
hen t y l e
a
interio r
c a r e f u ll y to h a u t e
,
producing
selec t ed
cuisine
. Pa
n
sau ce
-fried
F O O D IS A L M O S T A L W A Y S C O A T E D — ' D R E D G E D IN F L O U R , C O A T E D W I T H B A T T E R , O R B R E A D E D . F O O D IS F R I E D IN E N O U G H O I L TO C O M E H A L F W A Y TO T W O ' T H I R D S U P I TS S I D E , A N D IS O F T E N C O O K E D O V E R
i-i *< !
i—><
0
QTQ
L E S S I N T E N S E H E A T T H A N IN S A U T E I N G .
pan frying The p ro d u c t is cooked m ore by th e o il’s heat than by d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith the pan. In pan f r y ing, th e h o t oil seals th e foo d's coa ted surface, th e re b y lo cking in th e n a tural ju ice s inside. Because no ju ice s are released and a la rg e r am ount o f o il is involved, sauces accom panying p a n -frie d fo o d s are usually made separately. The o b je c t o f pan fry in g is to produce a fla v o rfu l e x te rio r w ith a crisp, brow n c ru s t th a t acts as a b a rrie r to re ta in ju ice s and flavo r. The actu al co lo r depends upon th e coating, its thickn ess, and the foo d. P a n -fried fo o d is usually p o rtio n -s iz e or sm aller. S elect cuts th a t are n a tu ra lly tender, as you w ould f o r a saute. Rib or loin cuts, to p round, o r p o u ltry b re a sts are all good choices. Lean fish , such as sole or flou nd er, are also w e ll su ite d to pan fry in g . Trim away any fa t, silverskin , and g ris tle . Remove th e skin and bones o f p o u ltry and fis h fille ts if necessary or desired. You may w a n t to pound c u tle ts f o r an even th ickn e ss and to sho rte n cooking tim e . This means th a t th e e x te rio r w ill brown w ith o u t ove rcoo king in th e same tim e th a t th e m eat cooks through. Ing re dients f o r breading include flo u r, m ilk a n d /o r beaten eggs, and bread crum bs or cornm eal. For in s tru c tio n s on standard breading, see page 365. The fa t f o r pan fry in g m ust be able to reach high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t breaking down or sm oking. V egetable oils, olive oil, and sho rte nings may all be used fo r pan fry in g . Lard, goose fa t, and o th e r rendered anim al fa ts have a place in c e rta in regional and eth n ic dishes. The choice o f f a t m akes a d iffe re n c e in the fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d dish. The pan used fo r pan fry in g m ust be large enough to hold fo o d pieces in a single layer w ith o u t touching. If th e fo o d is crow ded, th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e fa t w ill drop q u ickly and a good c ru s t w ill n o t fo rm . Pans should be made o f heavy-gauge m e ta l and should be able to tra n s m it heat evenly. The sides should be higher than tho se a p p ro p ria te f o r sautes, to avoid splashing h o t o il o u t o f th e pan as fo o d is added to th e o il o r tu rn e d durin g cooking. Have on hand a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t away surface f a t fro m frie d foo ds. Tongs or s lo tte d spatulas are ty p ic a lly used to tu rn foo ds. S elect shallow, w ide con tain ers to hold coatings, breading, o r b a tte rs.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
493
D
b a sic fo rm u la
Pan-Fried Items (1 en tree portion) 1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood (adjust portion size to account for bones, skin, or shells)
Enough cooking fat or oil to cover half to two-thirds of the item being pan fried
Salt and pepper, plus other seasonings as required 2 to 3 fl oz/60 to 90 mL
Standard breading, batter, or other coating
prepared sauce
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Heat the cooking medium. 2. Add the main item (usually
breaded or batter-coated) to the pan in a single layer.
Depending on the desired result,
different crusts can be
achieved depending on the type of coating used on the item. These coatings
3. Pan fry the food on the
presentation side until well browned. 4. Turn the food and cook it to
the desired doneness.
include: BATTERS / BREAD C RU M B S / C O R N M E A L / FLO U R
To develop additional flavor,
season the item with addi
tional ingredients prior to pan frying. These ingredients can also be added to
5. Remove the food and finish
the coating or batter that will be used to cover the item:
it in an oven, if necessary. FRESH HERBS / D RIE D SPIC E S
6. Drain the food on paper towels. 7. Season and serve it with
an appropriate sauce and garnish.
494
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
1. bread the food using th e sta n d a rd bre a d ing pro ced ure de scrib ed on page 36 5. F irs t b lo t the fo o d dry w ith paper to w e ls. Any m o is tu re le ft on th e surface could make the coating to o m oist. It w ill also break down
i—*•
P
the cooking fa t m ore quickly and cause it to splatter. Sea
GTQ
son b e fore coating the food. Foods are usually dipped in flo u r or a meal, then in egg wash, fo llo w e d by a coa ting o f bread crumbs. Egg wash is a m ixtu re o f beaten eggs and water, m ilk, or cream. For best results, w hisk the eggs well un til they are hom ogeneous in color and the re are no v is ible clumps o f albumen. Rem em ber to shake o f f any excess bread crumbs be fore placing th e ite m in the hot fa t. S tan dard breading can be applied 20 to 25 m inutes in advance. The pan and th e coo kin g fa t m ust reach th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re b e fo re th e fo o d is added. O therw ise, the c ru s t’s d e ve lo p m e n t w ill be slowed, and it may never achieve th e de sire d crisp te x tu re and golden brow n color. As a rule o f thum b, add enough fa t to com e o n e -h a lf to tw o -th ird s o f th e w ay up th e fo o d ; th e th in n e r th e fo o d , the less fa t is req uire d. W hen a fa in t haze or s lig h t shim m er is n o ticea ble , th e f a t is usually h o t enough. To te s t the te m p e ra tu re , dip a co rn e r o f th e fo o d in th e fa t. If th e fa t is a t ab o u t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C , it w ill bubble around th e foo d,
m eth o d in detail
and th e co a tin g w ill s ta r t to brow n w ith in 45 seconds.
2. add the food carefully
to th e hot
f a t and cook on th e p re s e n ta tio n side u n til good c ru s t and c o lo r develop. Exercise e xtre m e cau tion a t th is p o in t to p re ve n t burns. G e ttin g p a n -frie d fo o d s evenly brow ned and crisp req uire s th a t th e fo o d be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith th e h o t fa t. Be sure n o t to ove rcrow d th e pan, o r th e fo o d may n o t develop good c o lo r and te x tu re . If th e re is n o t enough fa t in th e pan, th e fo o d may s tic k to th e pan and tear, o r th e co a tin g m ay com e away. W hen pan fry in g large q u a n titie s , skim or s tra in away any loose p a rtic le s betw een batches. Add m ore fre s h f a t to keep th e level c o n s ta n t and to p re ve n t sm oking o r foam ing.
ch a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F RYING , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
495
3. turn the food once
and continue to
cook it u n til th e second side is golden and th e fo o d is p ro p e rly cooked. It is d iff ic u lt to give precise in s tru c tio n s fo r d e te rm in in g doneness in p a n -frie d foo ds. In general, th e th in n e r and m ore de lica te th e m eat, the m ore qu ickly it w ill cook. P a n -frie d item s, like sauteed and d e e p -frie d item s, even th in pieces, are su b je ct to carryo ver cooking. It is thu s b e st to s lig h tly undercook. For m ore in fo rm a tio n , review General G uidelines f o r D e te rm in in g Doneness on page 366. Some fo o d s, because th e y are th ic k or include bones o r a s tu ffin g , may need to be rem oved fro m th e f a t and placed in th e oven to fin is h cooking. If th e y do need to go in to th e oven, be sure th a t th e y are n o t covered. A lid could tra p steam to s o fte n th e crisp coating. Drain or b lo t p a n -frie d fo o d on clean paper or clo th tow e ls. The fo o d is ready to serve now. Do n o t hold frie d fo o d s fo r m ore tha n a very b rie f pe rio d b e fo re serving. They te n d to g e t soggy quickly. Do n o t cover frie d fo o d s if th e y need to be held fo r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e ; hold in dry heat on an open rack. Serve sauces fo r p a n -frie d fo o d s under th e fo o d or se p a ra te ly to preserve th e crust.
496
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Q rt> D e e p - f r ie d a
c r is p
cooked
fo o ds
have
m a n y
of
th e
s am e
c h a r a c t e r is t ic s
as
pan
- f r ie d
fo o d s
, in c l u d in g
, b r o w n e d e x t e r io r a n d a m o is t , f l a v o r f u l in t e r io r . H o w e v e r , d e e p - f r ie d f o o d s a r e in e n o u g h
fat or o il to c o m p l e t e l y s u b m e r g e t h e m
CD
T3
. In d e e p f r y in g , s ig n if ic a n t l y m o r e
FA T IS U S E D T H A N F O R E I T H E R S A U T E I N G O R PAN F R Y I N G .
i—*<
P
deep frying
Orq
The fo o d is a lm o st always coated w ith a stan dard breading, a b a tte r such as a tem pu ra or beer b a tte r, o r a sim ple flo u r coating. The co a tin g a cts as a b a rrie r betw een the fa t and the fo o d and also c o n trib u te s fla v o r and te x tu re . Deep fry in g is also su ita b le fo r c ro q u e tte s and s im ila r dishes made fro m a m ix tu re o f cooked, diced m eats, fish , o r p o u ltry , bound w ith a heavy becham el and breaded. To cook ra p id ly and evenly, fo o d s m ust be trim m e d and cu t in to a u n ifo rm size and shape. S e le ct cuts th a t are n a tu ra lly te n d e r; some ty p ic a l choices include p o u ltry, seafood, and vegetables. Remove the skin and bones o f p o u ltry and fis h fille ts i f necessary o r de sired. Be c e rta in to season th e fo o d b e fo re adding a coating. Breadings and coatings are com m on fo r d e e p -frie d foo ds. S tandard breading can be done 20 to 25 m inutes ahead and the item s re frig e ra te d b e fo re fry in g , b u t id ea lly bre ad ing should be done as close to service as possible. For stan dard bre ad ing in stru ctio n s, see page 365. A b a tte r o r plain flo u r co a tin g is applied im m e d ia te ly b e fo re cooking. E le c tric o r gas deep fry e rs w ith baskets are ty p ic a lly used f o r deep fry in g , although it is also fe a s ib le to f r y fo o d s on th e s to v e to p in a large pot. The sides should be high enough to pre ven t f a t fro m fo a m in g over or splashing, and th e p o t w ide enough to allow th e chef to add and rem ove fo o d s easily. Use a d e e p -fa t fry in g th e rm o m e te r to check th e fa t's te m perature , reg ard less o f w h e th e r you use a fry e r o r a pot. Become fa m ilia r w ith the frye r's reco very tim e (the tim e needed fo r th e fa t to regain th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re a fte r fo o d is added). The fa t w ill lose te m p e ra tu re f o r a b rie f tim e when fo o d is added. The m ore food, th e m ore the te m p e ra tu re w ill drop and th e longer it w ill ta ke to com e back to th e p ro pe r level. K itchens th a t m ust fr y m any kinds o f fo o d o fte n have several fry e rs to help p re ven t f la vo r tra n s fe r. Have a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t frie d fo o d s b e fo re th e y are served. Tongs, spiders, and baskets help add fo o d s to the fry e r and rem ove the m when p ro p e rly cooked.
ch a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP F R Y IN G
497
basic formula Deep Frying
Enough cooking fat or oil to
(1 entree portion)
completely submerge the food
1 boneless portion (6 to 8 oz/170
Standard breading, batter, or other coating
to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood (adjust portion size to account for bones, skin, or shells)
Salt and pepper, plus other seasonings as required 2 to 3 f I oz/60 to 90 mL prepared sauce
1
method at-a-glance H eat the fa t to th e proper te m p era ture . Add the main ite m (usually
Depending on the desired result, different crusts canbe
breaded or b a tte r-c o a te d )
achieved depending on the type of coating used. These coatings include:
to the h ot fa t, using the a p p ro p ria te m ethod.
B ATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / FLO U R
Turn the fo o d during fryin g ,
To develop additional flavor,
i f necessary.
season the item with addi
tional ingredients prior to deep frying. These ingredients can be added to the
Remove th e fo o d and fin ish
coating or batter used to cover the item:
i t in an oven, if necessary.
FRESH HERBS / D RIED SPIC E S
5 . B lo t th e fo o d w ith paper tow els. Season and serve it w ith th e a p p ro p ria te sauce and garnish.
A
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
o a>
1. heat the cooking fat
to th e p ro p e r
te m p e ra tu re (ge ne rally 3 2 5 ° to 3 7 5 °F /1 6 3 ° to 191°C).
CD
T5
The fa t m ust reach and m a intain a ne arly ste a d y te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t th e fry in g tim e to pre pa re crisp, fla v o rfu l, and nongreasy frie d fo o d s. P rop er m aintenance o f o il w ill help e xte nd its life . Old fa ts and oils have a d a rke r color and m ore pronounced arom a than fre s h oil. They may also
i—*<
CTQ
sm oke a t a lo w er te m p e ra tu re and foa m when fo o d s are added. Be sure to s tra in or f ilt e r th e o il p ro p e rly a fte r each m eal period. Replenish th e fry e r's oil to th e a p p ro p ri ate level if necessary. The sw im m ing m e th o d o f fry in g is generally used fo r b a tte re d foo d. To coat prepped fo o d w ith ba tte r, du st it f ir s t w ith flou r, then shake o f f th e excess b e fo re dropping it in to th e ba tte r. Remove the fo o d w ith tongs and b rie fly le t any excess b a tte r d rip o ff. C a refully low er the b a t te re d fo o d halfw ay in to the h o t oil w ith the tongs, or w ith your fing ers, using extra caution. When it s ta rts to bubble, release it; it w ill n o t sink. The b a s k e t m e th o d is generally used fo r breaded item s. Place th e breaded fo o d in a fry in g basket and then low er b o th the fo o d and the basket in to the hot fa t. Once th e fo o d is cooked, use the ba sket to lif t o u t the foo d. Foods th a t w ould tend to rise to the surface to o rap id ly are held down by s e ttin g a second basket on to p o f the fo o d ; th is is known as th e doub le-b aske t m ethod. The choice betw een the tw o m ethods o f deep fry in g depends on th e foo d, th e coating, and the intended result. Use all your senses as w ell as a th e rm o m e te r to accurately judge in te rn a l doneness. For m ore in fo rm a tio n , review Gen eral G uidelines fo r D e te rm ining Doneness on page 366.
2. fry food until it is fully cooked and th e co a tin g is a lig h t golden brown. Drain on paper to w e ls b e fo re serving. E valuate th e q u a lity o f the fin ish e d d e e p -frie d fo o d . D e e p -frie d fo o d s should ta s te like the fo o d , n o t like th e fa t used (or like o th e r fo o d s p re vio usly frie d in th e fa t). Foods served ve ry hot, d ire c tly fro m the fry in g k e ttle , have a b e tte r, less g re asy ta s te . If th e fo o d ta s te s heavy, greasy, o r s tro n g ly o f a n o th e r fo o d , th e fa t was n o t h o t enough, th e f a t was to o old, o r a s tro n g ly f la vored fo o d such as fis h was frie d in th e same fa t. W ell-prepared de e p -frie d fo o d has a m o ist and ten der interior, w ith a crisp, delicate crust. If the crust has become soggy, the fo o d may have been held to o long a fte r cooking or, again, the o il was n o t a t the co rre ct tem pe rature .
Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
499
Sauteed Chicken with Fines Herbes Sauce Makes 10 servings
Fines Herbes Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter 3/4 oz/21 g minced shallots
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g boneless chicken supremes
9 fl o z/2 7 0 mL dry white wine
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
6 o z/1 7 0 g Fines Herbes (page 369)
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Jus de Volaille Lie (page 293), Jus de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional) 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil 3A o z/21 g minced shallot
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Fines Herbes Sauce (recipe follows) 4 o z/1 1 3 g Fines Herbes (page 369)
1 . Heat the butter in a small sauce pot over mediumhigh heat. Add the shallots and sweat until translu cent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and fines herbes
1 . Blot the chicken dry and season with salt and pep per. Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Saute the chicken
and simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C until nearly dry.
2 . Add the jus lie, bring back to a simmer, and reduce slightly. Add the cream and continue to simmer the
on the presentation side until golden brown, about
sauce to reach a good flavor and consistency, skim
3 minutes. Turn the chicken and continue to saute
ming as necessary.
until cooked through ( i 8 o°F/82°C). Remove the
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce.
chicken from the pan and keep warm while complet
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
ing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute them
cooled and refrigerated for later use if using demiglace.
until translucent, about l minute.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine. Reduce it until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the fines herbes sauce, simmer briefly, and reduce to a nappe consistency.
5 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in the fines herbes. 6 . Serve the chicken immediately with the sauce or hold hot for service. NOTE: For banquet production of sauteed items, the sauce can be prepared in advance. The quality o f the sauce can vary because the pan drippings cannot always be incorporated into a premade sauce.
500
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
NOTE: This sauce can also be prepared a la minute using 1 tbsp /1 5m L glace de volaille fo r each chicken breast.
B ee f Tournedos Provencal: Substitute ten 6-oz/170-g beef tournedos fo r the chicken and red wine fo r the
Makes 10 servings
w hite wine. Season the beef w ith salt and pepper and saute to desired doneness follow ing the above method: 2 minutes per side fo r rare (135°F/57°C), 3 minutes per
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g chicken supremes
side fo r m edium-rare (145°F/63°C), AV2 minutes per side fo r medium (160oF/71°C), 6 minutes per side for medium-well (165°F/74°C), and 7 minutes per side fo r well-done (170°F/77°C). Remove the beef from the pan and reserve warm while finishing the sauce follow ing the above method. Tender cuts of meat should never be simmered in the sauce as it may cause them to toughen.
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional) 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil PROVENCAL SAUCE 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 3 anchovy fillets, mashed to a paste 10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Jus de Volatile Lie (page 293), Jus de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293) 12 o z/3 4 0 g tomato concasse 4 o z/1 1 3 g black olives, sliced or cut into julienne 1 o z/2 8 g basil chiffonade
1 . Blot the chicken dry and season with salt and pep per. Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 .. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Saute the chicken on the presentation side until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn the chicken and continue to saute until cooked through ( i 65°F/74°C). Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm while complet ing the sauce.
3 . Pour off the excess fat from the pan and add the garlic and anchovies; saute for 30 to 40 seconds to
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Chicken Provengal
release their aroma. Add the wine to deglaze the pan and simmer until almost dry.
4 . Add the jus lie and any juices released by the chicken. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Add the tomatoes, olives, and basil. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
5 . Return the chicken to the oven to reheat. Serve im mediately with the sauce or hold hot for service. NOTE: You may elect to use d iffe re n t kinds o f olives in this dish, introduce some capers, or add other herbs, either in addition to or as a replacement fo r the basil. Oregano, marjoram, chives, chervil, and thyme are all good choices.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
501
wttm
Veal Scaloppine Marsala
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg veal top round or tender leg cut, cut into emince
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
4 ts p /1 3 g s a lt
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
3 o z/8 5 g chopped shallot
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced mushrooms
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL white wine
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Marsala Sauce (page 504)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
5 o z /1 4 2 g butter, diced (optional)
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/6
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
1 . Blot the veal dry and season with salt and pepper.
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the veal to
Dredge in flour, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Working in batches, saute the veal, stirring from time to time, until the
the desired doneness, about 2 minutes per side for medium (i65°F/74°C). Remove the veal from the pan and keep warm while completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute until
desired doneness (i65°F/74°C), about 3 minutes. Remove the veal from the pan and keep warm while
translucent, about 1 minute.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost
completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and mushrooms
dry, about 3 minutes. Add the Marsala sauce and simmer briefly.
and saute until softened and translucent, about 3
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Emince o f Swiss-Style Veal
5 . Return the veal to the sauce to reheat. Return the
minutes.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost
sauce to a simmer and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Swirl in the butter to finish the
dry, about 3 minutes.
sauce, if desired.
5 . Add the jus lie, cream, brandy, and any juices re leased from the veal. Reduce until a good flavor and
6 . Serve the veal immediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
consistency is achieved, 1 to 2 minutes. 6 . Add the lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
7 . Serve the veal immediately with the sauce or hold
Pork S caloppine w ith Tom ato Sauce: Substitute boneless pork loin fo r the veal and Tomato Sauce (page 295) fo r the Marsala sauce.
hot for service.
Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
503
1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced mushrooms
Noisettes of Pork with Green Peppercorns and Pineapple
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter
Makes 10 servings
Marsala Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 4 o z/1 13 g minced shallot
24 f I o z/7 20 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 2 9 3) or Demi-Glace (page 293)
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork leg or loin, cut into twenty 3 -o z/8 5 -g noisettes
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Marsala
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt
Salt, as needed
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, diced (see Notes)
3/ t o z/21 g minced shallot 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine
1 . Saute the shallots and mushrooms in a saucepan until the mushrooms are tender and the shallots are translucent. Add Marsala and reduce by half.
2 . Add the jus lie and simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C until the sauce has developed a good flavor and consistency.
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce into a
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 264), Jus de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293) 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream 1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard 7 o z/1 9 8 g small-dice pineapple 1 o z/2 8 g drained green peppercorns
clean saucepan.
4 . Whisk in the butter. Adjust seasoning with salt and
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
pepper. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be
3 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
rapidly cooled, refrigerated, and reheated for later
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork to
use if using demi-glace.
145°F/63°C, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the pork from the pan and keep warm while completing
NOTES: As an option, 8 f l o z/2 40 mL heavy cream may be substituted fo r the butter. The sauce may need to be reduced slightly to achieve the proper consistency. Whisk in the bu tte r only if using the sauce immediately. If storing fo r later use, whisk in the bu tte r ju st before using. If using the sauce fo r Veal Scaloppine Marsala, om it the butter.
the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan. Add the shallots and saute them until translucent, about 1 minute.
4 . Deglaze the pan with the wine; reduce until almost dry, about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the stock, cream, and any juices released by the pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Strain into a clean saucepan and return to a simmer. 6 . Add the mustard, pineapple, and peppercorns and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Return the pork to the sauce to reheat.
7 . Serve 2 noisettes per serving with the sauce immedi ately, or hold hot for service.
504
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Winter Fruit Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL semidry white wine 3'/2 o z/9 9 g dried apricots (sulfur free)
Makes 10 servings
P /4 o z/5 0 g dried cherries
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork loin, cut into twenty 3 -o z/8 5 -g medallions
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
5 o z/1 4 2 g peeled, small-dice Red Delicious apples
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
4 o z/1 1 3 g peeled, small-dice B artlett pears
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
2 fl o z/6 0 mL apple-flavored brandy
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 264), Jus de Veau Lie (page 293), or Demi-Glace (page 293)
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL W inter Fruit Sauce (recipe follows)
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
Salt, as needed
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-
Ground black pepper, as needed
high heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork to 145°F/63°C, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove the
1 . Heat the wine in a small saucepan to just below
pork from the pan and keep warm while completing
a boil. Remove from the heat and add the dried
the sauce.
apricots and cherries. Let the fruit soak in the wine
3 . Degrease the pan. Deglaze the pan with the wine;
(macerate) for 30 minutes. Drain the fruit and re
reduce until almost dry, about 3 minutes.
serve the wine separately.
4 . Add the fruit sauce and any juices released by the
2 . Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium
pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency. Ad
heat and add the shallots. Saute until translucent,
just seasoning with salt and pepper.
1 to 2 minutes. Add the apples and pears and saute until lightly browned.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
3 . Add the brandy to deglaze the pan and reduce until almost dry. Add the reserved wine and bring to a simmer. Add the stock and bring to a simmer again.
sauteing, pan trying, and deep trying recipes
Sauteed Medallions o f Pork with W inter Fruit Sauce
Simmer until reduced to a good flavor and con sistency. Add the macerated fruit and season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
ch a p te r 18 »
S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
505
Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad Makes 10 servings
Warm Cabbage Salad Makes 10 servings l 3/ t o z/5 0 g minced bacon 1 o z/2 8 g butter
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg pork tenderloin, cut into thirty 2 -o z/5 7 -g medallions
3 '/ 2
o z/9 9 g small-dice red onion
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V i o z/1 4 g minced garlic
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 lb /9 0 7 g savoy cabbage chiffonade
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
l 3/ t f I o z/5 3 mL sherry vinegar
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL dry white wine
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Sherry Vinegar Sauce (page 450)
1 ts p /2 g caraway seeds
10 servings Warm Cabbage Salad (recipe follows)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley Salt, as needed
1 . Blot the pork dry and season with salt and pepper.
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 !. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Saute the pork 2 to
1 . Cook the bacon in a saute pan over medium heat un
3 minutes per side to i6o°F/7i°C. Remove the pork
til the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp. Remove
from the pan and keep warm while completing the
the bacon with a slotted spoon, allowing the fat to
sauce.
drain back into the pan. Reserve the bacon.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the wine to deglaze the pan; reduce until almost dry.
4 . Add the sherry vinegar sauce and any juices released by the pork. Reduce to a good flavor and consistency Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce and warm cabbage salad or hold hot for service.
2 . Add the butter to the pan. Add the onions and garlic and saute until translucent and tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the cabbage, toss to coat evenly with the fat, and saute until limp, stirring frequently, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the vinegar, sugar, and caraway seeds, and bring to a simmer. Cook until the cabbage is very hot and tender, 3 to 4 minutes more. Add the parsley. Season
N o ise tte s o f P ork w ith Red Onion C o n fit: Saute the pork follow ing the above method. Replace the warm cabbage salad w ith red onion confit. To make the red onion confit, simmer 2 lb /9 0 7 g sliced red onions w ith 4 fl oz/120 mL honey, 4 f I oz/1 20 mL red wine, and 5 f I oz/150 mL red wine vinegar until the mixture is the consistency o f marmalade, about 40 minutes. Adjust seasoning w ith salt and pepper. Keep warm fo r service or cool and refrigerate fo r later service. See the accompanying photo fo r this variation.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
with salt and pepper.
5 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
Pork Cutlet with Sauce Robert Makes 10 servings
Sauce Robert Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil 2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped shallot
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless pork leg or loin, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293)
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour (optional)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Dijon mustard
2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
Salt, as needed
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Sauce Robert (recipe follows)
Ground black pepper, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, diced
1 . Pound each portion of pork between sheets of parch ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/ 6 mm.
2 . Blot the cutlets dry and season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour, if desired.
3 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat until almost smoking. Working in batches, saute the pork on the presentation side until golden
1 . Heat the clarified butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and saute until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Add the wine and peppercorns, bring to a simmer, and reduce by half.
3 . Stir in the demi-glace, return to a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the flavors
brown, about 3 minutes. Turn the pork and continue
of the aromatics have infused and the sauce has
to saute until done (i45°F/63°C), 2 to 3 minutes. Re
thickened. Strain the sauce into a clean pan and re
move the cutlets from the pan and keep warm while
turn to a simmer.
completing the sauce.
4 . Degrease the pan and deglaze with the wine; reduce until almost dry, about 3 minutes. Add the sauce Robert and any juices released from the pork. Cook until heated through, stirring constantly. Adjust sea
4 . Add the mustard and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.
5 . Finish the sauce by swirling in the diced butter. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
soning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
5 . Serve the pork immediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Sauce C harcutiere: Add V/ 2 oz/43 gjulienned cornichons to the sauce along w ith the mustard and lemon juice.
Trout Amandine Makes 10 servings Ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g trout fillets
Makes 10 servings
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg skin-on red snapper fillets, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk, or as needed (optional)
Pinch ground black pepper
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole butter
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Grapefruit Salsa (page 955)
5 o z/1 4 2 g slivered almonds 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL lemon juice
1 . Season the snapper with the salt and pepper. Dredge
2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley
the flesh of the snapper, but not the skin, in the flour, shaking off the excess.
1 . Blot the trout fillets dry and season with salt and
2 . Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Saute the snapper until golden brown and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on thickness of the fillet.
3 . Serve immediately with the salsa.
pepper. Dip the trout fillets into milk, if desired, and dredge with flour, shaking off any excess.
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Saute the trout for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until the flesh is opaque and firm (i45°F/63°C). Remove the fish from the pan and keep warm while completing the sauce.
3 . Degrease the pan and add the whole butter. Cook the butter over medium-high heat until lightly browned with a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the almonds, stir to coat them evenly, and toast lighly until golden brown. Add the lemon juice and swirl to deglaze the pan. Add the parsley.
5 . Serve the trout immediately with the sauce or hold
sauteing, pan trying, and deep trying recipes
Red Snapper with Grapefruit Salsa
hot for service.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
509
Ancho-Crusted Salmon w ith Yellow Pepper Sauce, Stewed Black Beans (page 775), and Summer Squash Noodles (page 704)
Yellow Pepper Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/ 9 6 0 mL 2
t b s p /3 0 mL olive oil
12 o z /3 4 0 g sliced onion
Makes 1 0 servings
1 t s p /3 g sliced garlic
2 ancho chiles
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g yellow peppers, seeded and chopped
1 tb s p /6 g cumin seeds
5 o z /1 4 2 g chopped fennel
1 tb s p /6 g fen n el seeds
One 2 -in /5 -c m cinnamon stick
4'/> ts p /7 .5 0 g coriander seeds
'A ts p /0 .5 0
1 tb s p /6 g black peppercorns
V/ 2
1 tb s p /6 g dried thym e
3A
1 tb s p /6 g dried oregano
8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r
l '/ 2 o z / 4 3 g s a l t
3 o z /8 5 g tom atillos, q uartered
1 tb s p /6 g dry m ustard
2 t b s p /3 0 mL lime juice, or as needed
3 lb 12 o z /1 .7 0 kg salmon fille t, cut into ten 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g portions
Salt, as needed
g ground allspice
ts p /3 g dried epazote
o z /2 1 g sugar
1 . Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-
3 tb s p /4 5 mL clarified b u tte r or oil 2 0 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Yellow Pepper Sauce (recipe follow s)
high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until translucent, about 8 minutes.
1 . Remove and discard the stems and seeds from the
2.. Add the peppers, fennel, cinnamon, allspice, epa zote, sugar, and water.
chiles. Roughly chop the chiles.
2.. Toast the chiles, cumin, fennel, and coriander seeds on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove and cool to room
3 . Cover the pot and simmer on low heat until the pep pers are soft, about 25 minutes.
4 . Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree with the
temperature.
tomatillos until very smooth. Strain through a large-
3 . Combine the toasted spices with the peppercorns, thyme, and oregano in a spice grinder. Grind to a
holed strainer.
5 . Season with the lime juice and salt. The sauce is
coarse powder. Stir in the salt and dry mustard.
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce
ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and
4 . Lightly coat each portion of salmon with the spice
refrigerated for later use.
rub. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Saute the salmon on the pre sentation side until the spices start to brown, l to 2 minutes.
5 . Flip the salmon over and cook over medium heat or in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 4 to 6 minutes (depending on thickness of cut), until desired doneness. 6 . Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
511
Vatapa Makes 10 servings
4 . Reduce the heat to medium and add the tomato paste. Saute for 1 minute. Deglaze with the wine. Add the stock and reserved coconut water and bring
1 whole coconut (about 1 lb 14 o z/8 5 0 g) 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL olive oil
to a boil. Reduce the mixture by half, about 10 min utes. Reduce the heat to low, whisk in the roux, and simmer for 15 minutes longer.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined, shells reserved 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL brandy
5 . Add the cream and reduce over medium heat to a nappe consistency, 1 to 2 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve.
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onion
6 . Season the monkfish with the salt and pepper and 3 garlic cloves, minced
dredge in flour. Saute the monkfish in the remain
2jalapenos, small dice
ing oil over high heat for 5 to 7 minutes, then add
2 'A o z/71 g chopped unsalted peanuts
the shrimp. Saute both until cooked through, 2 to 3
21/2 o z/71 g grated ginger 2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
minutes. Add the sauce. Check the consistency and seasoning of the vatapa.
7 . Serve immediately, garnished with the tomatoes, the
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL white wine
toasted coconut, peanuts, and cilantro, or hold hot
l ’/ 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Shellfish Stock (page 264), Fish Fumet (page 264), or Chicken Stock (page 263)
for service.
3 o z/8 5 g White Roux (page 246) 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL heavy cream 2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg monkfish, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes I V 2 ts p /5 g salt 'A ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper 4 o z /1 13 g all-purpose flour 8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and small-diced tomato 4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted unsalted peanuts 3 tb sp /9 g cilantro leaves
1 . Split the coconut in half and reserve the water. Re move the flesh, peel off the brown skin, and shred the flesh. Toast 4 oz/113 g of the shredded flesh in a 350°F/i77°C oven until a light golden brown; re serve. Reserve the remaining shredded coconut for the sauce.
2 . Heat 3 tbsp/45 mL of the oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Saute the reserved shrimp shells until pink and slightly caramelized, 45 seconds to 1 min ute. Add the brandy and flambe the shells.
3 . Add the onions, garlic, jalapenos, the reserved shred ded coconut, chopped peanuts, and ginger to the shrimp shells and saute for 3 minutes.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Shrimp Ticin-Xic Makes 8 servings 33A o z/1 0 6 g achiote paste
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g chopped white onion Ten 9 to 1 0 -o z /2 5 5 to 2 8 4 -g pan-dressed trout 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g cloves 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 6 garlic cloves 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper Pinch ground allspice 2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or oil l
'/2
ts p /5 g salt
10 o z/2 8 4 g whole butter 4 f l o z/1 2 0 mL Seville orange juice 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice 2 tb s p /3 0 mL white vinegar B tb sp /9 g chopped parsley 3 3/ t f l o z/1 1 3 mL lime juice
1 . Blot the trout dry and season with salt and pepper.
3A o z/21 g serrano chiles, stems removed 2 lb /9 0 7 g shrimp, peeled and deveined
Dredge in flour.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil (optional)
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Working in batches, saute the trout until lightly browned and cooked through, 3 to 4
2 banana leaves, cut into 6 -in / 15-cm squares (optional)
minutes per side. Remove the trout from the pan and keep warm while completing the sauce.
1 . In a food processor or blender, puree the achiote
3 . Degrease the pan and add the whole butter. Cook the
paste, onions, cloves, garlic, allspice, black pepper,
butter over medium-high heat until lightly browned
salt, orange juice, vinegar, lime juice, and chiles until
with a nutty aroma, 2 to 3 minutes.
smooth.
4 . Add the lemon juice to the pan and swirl to deglaze
2.. Place the shrimp in a shallow dish and pour the
it. Add the parsley and pour or spoon the sauce over
puree over. Marinate for 1 hour, refrigerated, before
the trout. Serve immediately.
cooking.
3 . The shrimp can be cooked in two ways. Saute the shrimp in the olive oil over high heat until cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Alternatively, place 4 shrimp in the
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere
middle of each banana leaf square and fold the cor ners of the leaf over the shrimp to make a package. Secure the package with butcher’s twine or a strip of banana leaf. Heat a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Working in batches as necessary, cook the shrimp for 4 minutes and flip the packages over. Cook the shrimp for another 4 minutes or until the shrimp is just cooked through. Unwrap from the banana leaves before serving.
ch a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYIN G
513
Bibimbap Makes10servings MARINADE 2 f I o z/6 0 mL Korean soy sauce 1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r 3A o z/21 g minced green onion, green and white parts 3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic 1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger 1 tb sp /6 g sesame seeds, toasted and ground 1 ts p /5 mL dark sesame oil 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 lb /4 5 4 g beef skirt steak, cut into julienne 8 o z/2 2 7 g red radish, cut into julienne 8 o z/2 2 7 g daikon, cut into julienne 8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, cut into julienne 8 o z/2 2 7 g English cucumber, cut into julienne 10 shiso leaves chiffonade 8 o z/2 2 7 g iceberg lettuce chiffonade 2 V i f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
10 eggs 4 lb 6 o z/1.98 kg Steamed Long-Grain Rice (page 785) 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Korean red pepper paste
1. Com binethesoysauce,sugar,greenonions,garlic,
ginger,sesameseeds,sesameoil,andpepperina hotelpan.Addthebeef,stirtocoat,cover,andre frigeratefor24hours. 2.. Tosstogethertheradish,daikon,carrot, cucum ber, shiso,andlettuceandrefrigerateuntilservice. 3. Heat2floz/6om Lofthevegetableoilinawokover medium-highheat.Drainthebeefandstir-fryuntil barelycookedthrough,3to4minutes. Removefrom thepanandreservewarm. 4.H eattheremaining1tbsp/15mLoftheoilinalarge nonsticksautepanovermedium-highheat. Frythe eggssunny-sideup.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
5. Foreachportion,tossabout1V2oz/43gofthestir-fried
beefwithabout4oz/113g°frawvegetablesandserve themontopof7oz/198goftherice.Slideafriedegg outofthepanontopofthebeefandvegetables. 6. Serveimmediatelywith2tbsp/30mLpepperpaste ontheside.
Breast o f Chicken w ith Duxelles S tu ffin g and Supreme Sauce
Makes 10 servings I V 2 o z/4 3 g sliced garlic
Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped cilantro root 1 o z/2 8 g minced Thai chiles
Ten 7 to 8 -o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g boneless chicken supremes
1 ts p /2 g cracked black peppercorns
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
2 lb /9 0 7 g squid tubes and tentacles, cut into large bite-size pieces
2 lb /9 0 7 g Duxelles Stuffing (page 482) 5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
3 o z/8 5 g green onion, green and white parts cut into julienne
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL oyster sauce
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL clarified butter or o il, or as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL fish sauce
20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Supreme Sauce (page 294)
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
1 . Trim the chicken supremes and remove the skin,
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
if desired. Butterfly each breast portion and pound 1 o z/2 8 g Thai basil leaves
between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap to even thickness.
1 . Combine the garlic, cilantro root, chiles, and pep percorns in a blender and process to a paste.
blot dry the chicken and season with salt and pep
2 . Heat the oil in a wok over high heat, add the paste, and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
Overlap the edges to form a seam.
brown on the edges, 3 to 4 minutes.
3 . Apply a standard breading: Dredge the chicken in
4 . Add the peppers and stir-fry about 1 minute more. 5 . Add the green onions, oyster sauce, fish sauce, sugar, and stock. Cook until the squid is just cooked, 2 to 3
6 . Add the basil and toss well. Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
per. Spread each breast with a portion of the dux elles stuffing and roll the breast around the stuffing.
3 . Add the squid and stir-fry until half cooked and
minutes.
2 . At the time of service or up to 3 hours in advance,
flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs. (Refrigerate, seam side down, on a wire rack over a
sauteing, pan trying, and deep frying recipes
Stir-Fried Squid with Thai Basil
sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
4 . Heat about Vz in/i cm butter to about 35o°F/i77°C in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the chicken to the butter, seam side down first, and pan fry until golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn once and finish pan frying on the second side until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 170°F/77°C, about 3 minutes more. (Finish cook ing in a 350°F/i77°F oven once the crust is properly browned, if preferred.)
5 . Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve immediately with the heated sauce.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
5 15
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken Makes 10 servings
Country Gravy Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL 3 o z/8 5 g minced slab bacon, rind removed 2 fI o z/6 0 mL clarified butter
Four 3 lb 8 -o z/1 .5 9 -k g chickens, cut into 10 pieces each 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL buttermilk 4 tb sp /1 2 g minced tarragon 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Dijon mustard r
/2
ts p /2 g poultry seasoning
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onion 2 o z/5 7 g minced celery I /2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
21/ o z/71 g all-purpose flour I /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
4 tb s p /4 0 g s a lt
1 lb /4 5 4 g chicken wings, browned
2 lb /9 0 7 g all-purpose flour
1 bay leaf
l 1/t s p / 3 g cayenne
Salt, as needed
V 2 o z/1 4 g Old Bay seasoning
2 q t/1 .9 2 L peanut oil, or as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Country Gravy (recipe follows)
1 . Render the bacon in the butter over medium-low 1 . Combine the chicken pieces with the buttermilk, tarragon, mustard, poultry seasoning, and 2 tbsp/ 20 g salt. Mix well and marinate, covered, in the re frigerator overnight.
2 . Combine the flour with the cayenne, Old Bay, and the remaining salt. Mix well.
3 . Drain the chicken and discard the marinade. Dredge in the flour and let sit for at least 30 minutes on a wire rack.
4 . Heat the oil in a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Dredge the chicken in the flour again. When the oil reaches 350°F/i77°C, pan fry the chicken in batches until golden brown on both sides, about 15 minutes.
5 . Finish the chicken on a roasting rack placed over a sheet pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven until it reaches an internal temperature of i8o°F/82°C. 6 . Drain the chicken briefly on paper towels and serve immediately with the country gravy or hold hot for service.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
heat until crisp, about 8 minutes.
2 . Add the onions, celery, and garlic and sweat until the onions are translucent, 4 to 6 minutes.
3 . Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat to make a pale roux.
4 . Add the stock, wings, and bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper.
5 . Simmer the gravy until good flavor and consistency develop, 1V2 to 2 hours, skimming as necessary. Add the cream and return the gravy to a simmer. 6 . Strain the gravy. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . The gravy is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken w ith Country Gravy, Whipped Potatoes (page 735), and Braised Collards (page 710)
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets
Veal Cordon Bleu
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round, cut into ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g portions
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg boneless veal top round, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
1 ts p /3 g salt
1 ts p /3 g salt
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced ham
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced Gruyere
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil or clarified butter or lard, or as needed
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/ 6 mm.
8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs, or as needed 2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil or clarified butter or lard, or as needed 2 0 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Mushroom Sauce (page 440), or as needed
2 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad vance, apply a standard breading: Blot the veal dry,
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch
season with salt and pepper, dredge in flour, dip in
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of % in/6
egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs. (Refrigerate on a
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper.
wire rack over a sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
3 . Heat about Vs in/3 mm ° f fat t0 about 35o°F/i77°C in
2 .. Top each scaloppine with V2 oz/14 g each of the ham and cheese. Roll the veal around the ham and cheese
a large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan over medium
to form a half-moon shape. Carefully pound the
heat. Working in batches, add the breaded veal to the
open ends between parchment paper or plastic wrap
hot oil and pan fry on the presentation side for about
to seal the cordon bleu.
2 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Turn once and finish pan frying on the second side until it reaches an internal temperature of i6o°F/7i°C, 1 to 2 minutes more.
4 . Drain the veal briefly on paper towels and serve im mediately or hold hot for service.
3 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad vance, apply a standard breading to the veal: Dredge the veal in flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs. (Refrigerate on a wire rack over a sheet pan if breaded in advance.)
4 . Heat about V2 in/i cm oil to about 35o°F/i77°C in a large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan over medium
W iener S chnitzel: Prepare and cook the cutlets as directed above. Heat 4 o z /1 13 g b u tte r in a'large saute pan, sautoir, org risw o ld until it sizzles, a b o u t2 minutes. Add the pan-fried veal to the hot bu tte r and turn to coat on both sides. Serve at once on heated plates w ith lemon wedges or slices and parsley sprigs. Pan-Fried Breaded Pork C u tlet: S ubstitute an equal amount o f boneless pork loin fo r the veal. Prepare the cutlets as directed above.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
heat. Add the veal to the hot oil and pan fry on the presentation side for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Turn once, and finish pan frying on the second side until it reaches an internal tempera ture of i6o°F/7i°C, about 2 minutes more. (Optional: Finish cooking in a 350°F/i77°C oven, if preferred.)
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately with the mushroom sauce or hold hot for service.
Milanese Sauce Makes 32 fl
0 Z/960
mL
3 fl o z/ 90 mL clarified butter 4 o z/1 1 3 g white mushrooms, cut into julienne 2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL dry red wine
Makes 10 servings
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295) 3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg boneless veal top round, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 293) 4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, cut into julienne
4 eggs, beaten
2 o z/5 7 g beef tongue, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan
4 ts p /4 g chopped parsley
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Salt, as needed
1 ts p /3 g salt
Ground black pepper, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper 6 o z/1 7 0 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
1 . Heat the butter in a large saucepan over medium
20 fI o z /6 0 0 mL Milanese Sauce (recipe follows)
heat. Add the mushrooms and shallots and saute until the shallots are just translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.
1 . Pound each portion of veal between sheets of parch ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of % in/ 6 mm.
2 . Add the wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the tomato sauce and jus lie. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by about one-quarter to one-half, depending
2 . Combine the eggs and Parmesan in a bowl, mix well, and reserve.
on desired consistency.
3 . Add the ham, tongue, and parsley and simmer un
3 . Heat about V2 in/i cm oil in a large sautoir, griswold, or saute pan to about 350°F/i77°C over medium
til all the ingredients are hot. Season with salt and pepper.
heat.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
4 . Blot the veal dry, season with salt and pepper, dredge
cooled and refrigerated for later use.
in flour, dip in the egg mixture, and dredge again in flour. Add the veal to the hot oil and pan fry on the
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Veal Piceata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese)
presentation side for about 2 minutes. When golden brown and crisp, turn once, and finish pan frying on second side until it reaches an internal temperature of i6 o cF/7i°C, 2 minutes more.
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately with the Milanese sauce or hold hot for service. NOTE: Do not place the veal in the egg mixture if not cooking immediately, as the ba tte r w ill run o ff the veal and it will need to be dipped again before frying.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
519
Fisherman's Platter
Remoulade Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g flounder fillets, cut into l-o z/28-g g o u jo n ettes 20 littleneck clams, shucked 20 oysters, shucked 20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined 10 o z/2 8 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed 2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed 1 ts p /3 g salt V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper 5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 2 o z/5 7 g chopped drained capers 3 tb sp /9 g minced chives 3 tb sp /9 g chopped tarragon 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard 1 ts p /5 mL anchovy paste Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Worcestershire sauce, as needed Tabasco sauce, as needed
6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed 12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed
seasoning with salt, pepper, Worcestershire, and
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Tabasco. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be
20 fI o z/6 0 0 mL Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows)
refrigerated for later use.
1 . At the time of service or up to 25 minutes in ad vance, blot dry the fish, clams, oysters, shrimp, and scallops and season with lemon juice, salt, and pep per. Apply a standard breading: Dredge each piece in flour, dip in egg wash, and roll in bread crumbs. (Refrigerate if breaded in advance.)
2.. Heat about V2 in/i cm oil to about 350°F/i77°C in a large sautoir, saute pan, or griswold over medium heat. Add the fish and seafood to the hot oil and pan fry on the presentation side until golden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes. Turn once and finish pan fry ing on the second side until each variety reaches an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C, 1 to 2 minutes more. (Finish cooking in a 350°F/i77°C oven once the crust is properly browned, if preferred.)
3 . Drain the fish and seafood briefly on paper towels and serve immediately. Serve 2 goujonettes, 2 clams, 2 oysters, 2 shrimp, and 1 scallop per serving with 2 fl oz/6o mL remoulade sauce.
520
Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
6 . Combine the potatoes with the salt cod. There should still be small flakes of the cod visible throughout the potato mixture.
Makes 10 servings
7 . Combine the eggs, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, and chilled onions and garlic with the cod
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g salt cod fillets
mixture and season with the salt and pepper. Chill thoroughly.
2 q t/1 .92 L water
8 . Portion the cod mixture into 3-oz/85-g cakes ap
1 q t/9 6 0 mL milk
proximately 2V2 in/6 cm in diameter and 1 in/3 cm
3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes
thick.
12 o z/3 4 0 g minced onion
9 . Lightly coat the cakes in the panko. Wrap a piece
4 ts p /1 2 g minced garlic
of bacon around the outside of each cod cake and
2 o z/5 7 g butter
secure the bacon with a toothpick. Refrigerate the
3 eggs
assembled cod cakes for 30 minutes prior to pan
4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL mustard
frying.
10 . Heat about 4 fl oz/120 mL of the oil in a large sau
4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL Worcestershire sauce
toir over medium-high heat until it shimmers but V i o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
is not smoking. Pan fry the cod cakes until golden
2 ts p /6.50 g salt
brown, crisp, and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes
V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
per side. Add clean oil to the pan when necessary.
11 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately or
3 o z /8 5 g p a n k o
hold hot for service.
1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced slab bacon, rind removed 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 . Rinse the salt cod in several changes of water. Soak overnight, refrigerated, in the fresh water.
2 .. The next day, remove the salt cod from the water, cut into large chunks, and simmer in the milk over medium low heat for about 15 minutes.
3 . Discard the milk and rinse the salt cod under cold
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes
water. Taste the cod; it should not be salty. If it is still salty, repeat as necessary with fresh milk. Remove and discard any bones or skin and shred or chop the cod into fine pieces. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
4 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces. Cook the potatoes by boiling or steaming until tender enough to mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 3oo°F/i49°C oven until no more steam rises from them. While the potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
5 . While the potatoes are cooking, sweat the onions and garlic in the butter in a medium saute pan over medium heat until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
521
Pan-Fried BrookTrout with Bacon Makes 10 servings 15 slices bacon 10 brook trout (6 to 10 o z/1 7 0 to 2 8 4 g each), pan dressed and boned 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL buttermilk, or as needed 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, or as needed 2 lemons, cut into wedges
1 . Lay the bacon in a single layer on parchment paper on a sheet pan. Cook in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until crisp, about 15 minutes. Cut each slice in half cross wise and reserve.
2 . Season the interior of each trout with salt and pep per. Lay in a hotel pan and pour over the buttermilk.
3 . Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet or saute pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers but is not smoking. Lightly dredge the trout in flour and shake off excess.
Flounder a 1'Orly Makes 10 servings 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg flounder fillet, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice 1 ts p /3 g salt V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper All-purpose flour, as needed 22 f I o z/6 6 0 mL Beer Batter (recipe follows) 20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295) 20 parsley sprigs 10 lemon wedges
1 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a deep fryer or tall pot.
2 . At the time of service, blot the fish dry and season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Dip in flour, shake off any excess, then dip into the beer batter. Place the flounder into the oil, and deep fry until golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.
3 . Drain briefly on paper towels and serve immediately with 2 fl oz/6o mL of tomato sauce, 2 parsley sprigs, and 1 lemon wedge.
4 . Pan fry the trout until cooked through, 4 to 5 min utes per side; lower the heat as needed to avoid scorching.
5 . Drain briefly on paper towels. 6 . Lay 3 slices of bacon on top of each trout and serve immediately with a lemon wedge, or hold hot for service.
Beer Batter Makes 22 fl oz/6o mL 10 o z/2 8 4 g all-purpose flour '/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g baking powder 1 ts p /3 g salt 1 egg, separated 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL beer
1 . Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg yolk and the beer all at once, and whisk until very smooth. Keep chilled until service.
2 . At the time of service, whip the reserved egg white to soft peaks. Fold the white into the batter and use at once.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Tempura Dipping Sauce
Makes 10 servings
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL light soy sauce 8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL Ichi Ban Dashi (page 266)
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL mirin 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL peanut oil 5 o z/1 4 2 g finely grated daikon 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sesame oil 1 tb sp /9 g finely grated ginger
TEMPURA BATTER 3 eggs, beaten
Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and warm
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water
slightly over low heat. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for
8 o z/2 2 7 g crushed ice
later use.
13 o z/3 6 9 g all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Tempura Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . If desired, make a couple of incisions on the stomach side of each shrimp so that it stays straight. Refriger ate until service.
2 . Combine the vegetable, peanut, and sesame oils in a heavy deep pot or fryer. Heat to 350°F/i77°C.
3 . To make the batter, combine the eggs, water, and ice. Add the flour and mix gently. Do not overmix.
4 . Lightly dredge the shrimp in flour. Pick up the shrimp by their tails and dip the bodies only in the batter to coat lightly. Immediately deep fry until crisp and white or light golden brown.
5 . Drain the shrimp on paper towels and serve immedi ately with the dipping sauce.
chapter 18 » S A U T E I N G , PAN FR Y IN G , A N D D E E P FR Y IN G
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
ShrimpTempura
523
Crispy TangerineFlavored Chicken Makes 10 servings
5 . At service, heat the peanut oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, green onions, tangerine skin, and chiles and stir-fry until aromatic, 15 to 30 seconds. 6 . Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add
MARINADE
the red peppers and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add the
2 tb sp /3 0 mL light soy sauce
broccoli and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes.
l
'/ 2
ts p /4.50 g minced garlic
1 ts p /3 g salt 2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
7 . Add the fried chicken and stir-fry to reheat, 1 to 2 minutes. 8 . Slowly add the sweet garlic sauce, stirring constantly to coat the chicken and vegetables in the sauce.
9 . Serve immediately.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Sweet Garlic Sauce
COATING
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
1 egg, beaten 2 /2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water 2 ts p /6 g minced ginger 6 o z/1 7 0 g cornstarch 1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic 2 f I o z/6 0 mL peanut oil
V A o z/3 5 g minced green onion, green and white parts
1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger
2 ts p /1 0 mL hot bean paste
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
6 fl o z/4 8 0 mL light soy sauce
o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onion, green and white parts
2'/2 fl o z/7 5 mL Shaoxing wine
'/2
'/2
o z/1 4 g dried tangerine skin, rehydrated and minced
2 ts p /7 g chopped dried red chiles 8 o z/2 2 7 g white mushrooms, quartered 8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into l-in /3 -c m squares 8 o z/2 2 7 g broccoli florets, blanched
2'/2 fl o z/7 5 mL rice wine vinegar 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g sugar 2 ts p /1 0 mL sesame oil 2'/2 o z/7 1 g cornstarch, mixed with water to make a slurry
14 fI o z/4 2 0 mL Sweet Garlic Sauce (recipe follows)
1 . Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add 1 . Combine the soy sauce, garlic, salt, and pepper. Pour the marinade over the chicken and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
2 . Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy, deep pot.
3 . To make the coating, mix the egg, water, and corn
aromatic, 15 to 30 seconds.
2 . Add the bean paste and stir-fry for 15 to 30 seconds more.
3 . Add the soy sauce, rice wine, vinegar, and stock and bring the mixture to a boil.
starch to a smooth paste. Drain the chicken and
4 . Stir in the sugar and sesame oil and return to a boil.
combine it with the coating.
5 . Gradually add the cornstarch slurry to the sauce un
4 . Deep-fry the chicken until golden brown, crisp, and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain briefly on pa per towels and reserve warm.
524
the ginger, garlic, and green onions and stir-fry until
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
til it becomes medium thick. 6 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Co Thong Long)
Makes 10 servings Vegetable oil as needed
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg firm bean curd, cut into V H n /l-c m -th ic k triangles
4 o z /1 1 3 g ric e flo u r
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL peanut oil
2 ts p /4 g ground turmeric
1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 tb sp /11 g green onion, green and white parts, thinly sliced
3 lb /1.36 kg catfish fillet, cut into 2-in/5-cm squares 2 tb s p /3 0 mL peanut oil
3 tb sp /71 g hot bean paste 3 tb sp /71 g Chinese black bean sauce
4 o z/1 1 3 g green onion, green and white portions, cut into julienne
1 tb sp /6 g Korean chili powder
30 Thai basil leaves, halved lengthwise
10 o z/2 8 4 g shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
60 cilantro leaves
8 o z/2 2 7 g snow peas, strings removed, cut in half on the diagonal
60 dill sprigs, stemmed 1 lb /4 5 4 g rice noodle vermicelli, cooked
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into batonnet
2 'A o z/7 1 g pan-roasted peanuts
8 o z/2 2 7 g bean sprouts
16 f I o z /4 8 0 mL Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (page 9 5 6)
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetarian oyster sauce 2 tb sp /3 0 mL dark sesame oil
1 . Combine the rice flour, turmeric, and salt in a large
2 tb sp /6 g minced cilantro
bowl. Heat the vegetable oil to 375°F/igi°C.
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 . Toss the fish in the flour mixture, shake off excess,
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
and immediately deep fry until golden and crisp, 2 to
1 ts p /2 g ground Szechuan peppercorns
3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and reserve warm.
3 . Heat the peanut oil in a wok. Stir-fry the green on 1 . Heat the oil to 35o°F/i76°C in a heavy pot. Working
ions for about 5 seconds. Add the basil, cilantro, and
in batches if necessary, deep fry the bean curd until
dill and stir-fry just until the herbs wilt, 30 to 45 sec
golden brown, about 5 minutes. Drain well on paper
onds. Remove immediately.
towels and reserve.
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
Grandmother's Bean Curd (Ma Po Dofu)
4 . Serve the fish on a bed of the noodles topped with
2 . Heat the peanut oil in a wok. Add the ginger, garlic, and green onions and stir-fry until aromatic, about
the herb mixture. Garnish with the peanuts and serve with Vietnamese dipping sauce.
1 minute. Add the bean paste, black bean sauce, and chili powder and stir-fry 1 minute more. Add the mushrooms, snow peas, red peppers, and bean sprouts and stir-fry until the vegetables are tender, 6 to 8 minutes.
3 . Add the bean curd, oyster sauce, sesame oil, cilantro, salt, and pepper. Stir-fry to heat through, about 3 minutes. Finish with the ground peppercorns. NOTE: For a traditional Ma Po Dofu, add 1 lb /4 54 g cooked ground beef to the wok w ith the bean curd in step 3.
Chapter 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
527
Fried Fish Cakes Makes 10 servings 10 Thai chiles l
'/2
Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno Makes 10 servings
o z/4 3 g shallots
2 garlic cloves V i o z/1 4 g cilantro root or stems 1 tb sp /9 g minced galangal 3 kaffir lime leaves 1 ts p /3 g salt 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g white-fleshed fish fillets, minced 2 tb sp /3 0 mL fish sauce 4 o z/1 1 3 g long beans, sliced into paper-thin rounds 1 q t/9 6 0 mL peanut oil 2 0 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Cucumber Salad (page 922)
1 . Grind the chiles, shallots, garlic, cilantro, galangal, lime leaves, and salt to a paste in a food processor.
2 . Combine the spice paste, fish, fish sauce, and beans
PICADILLO OAXAQUENO 2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes 5 o z/1 4 2 g medium-dice white onion 2 ts p /6 g roughly chopped garlic I / 2 tb sp /1 5 g salt, plus more as needed 3 tb s p /4 5 mL canola oil 14 o z/3 9 7 g diced white onion 2 tb s p /1 8 g minced garlic 2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, diced 2 tb sp /2 0 g raisins, chopped 2 ts p /8 g drained capers, chopped 2 o z/5 7 g pitted green olives 2 tb s p /2 5 g chopped almonds
and knead until well combined and the consistency
2 o z/5 7 g parsley
is slightly tacky.
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g cloves
3 . Shape into 2 1/ 2 -o z lr/ i- g round, flat pucks. Refrigerate until ready to cook.
4 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a deep fryer or tall pot. Deep fry the cakes until golden brown on the outside and they float to the top of the oil, about 3 minutes.
5 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g black peppercorns 1 ts p /2 g Mexican cinnamon 2 ts p /1 0 mL white vinegar 2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r CALDILLO 2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes
the cucumber salad, or hold hot for service. 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced white onion 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic r
/2
tb sp /2 2.50 mL canola oil
2 bay leaves 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt CHILES RELLENOS 2 lb /9 0 7 g poblanos 3 /2
o z/9 9 g all-purpose flour
5 eggs, separated Salt, as needed 2 q t/1 .9 2 L vegetable oil
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
To make the picadillo, in a large pot combine the pork, medium-dice onion, and chopped garlic.
2
.
1 2 . Lightly beat the egg yolks, just to combine. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks in an electric mixer.
Cover with water and season with salt as needed.
Fold the remaining V2 oz/14 g flour into the egg
Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to
yolks and season with salt. Lighten the mixture by
low and simmer until the meat is tender, about 1V2
folding one-third of the beaten egg whites into the
hours.
yolks. Fold in the remaining egg whites.
Drain the pork and discard the broth, onion, and
1 3 . Heat the vegetable oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy
garlic. Allow the pork to cool. Use your fingers or
pot. One at a time, dip the chiles into the egg mix
two forks to shred the pork.
ture and fry until golden brown. Drain on paper
3 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau over medium
towels and keep warm.
1 4 . Serve the chile rellenos with the caldillo sauce.
heat. Saute the diced onions until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until aromatic, about 1 minute more. Add the tomatoes and saute until cooked through, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the raisins, capers, olives, al monds, and parsley.
4 . In a spice grinder, grind the cloves, peppercorns, and cinnamon. Stir into the tomato mixture. Re duce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.
5 . Remove from the heat and stir in the pork, vinegar, sugar, and 1V2 tbsp/15 g salt. Mix well. Allow the picadillo to cool completely before stuffing the chiles.
6
.
To make the caldillo, place the tomatoes in a me dium stockpot. Add the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the tomatoes are fully cooked, 10 to 12 minutes.
7 . Drain the tomatoes and reserve the cooking liquid. Puree the tomatoes with the onion and garlic in a food processor or blender to make a smooth sauce. 8 . Heat the oil in a large pot and cook the tomato
sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying recipes
1 .
sauce, stirring frequently, until it deepens in color and turns a rust-red color. Add the bay leaves and enough cooking liquid to create the desired sauce consistency. Simmer the sauce over low heat for 30 minutes.
9 . Remove the bay leaves and season with salt. The caldillo is ready to use now or may be cooled rap idly and refrigerated for later use.
10 . To make the chiles rellenos, stuff the poblanos with the picadillo, taking care not to overstuff. Close the seam of the chiles around the filling.
1 1 . Dredge the stuffed chiles in 3 oz/85 g of the flour, shaking off any excess.
c h a p te r 18 » S A U T E IN G , PAN F R Y IN G , A N D DEEP FRYING
529
Tinga Poblano Makes 10 servings
7 . Saute the diced onion in the reserved fat over medium-high heat until just turning brown, about 5 minutes. Add the pork and saute until golden and
3 lb /1.36 kg boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
slightly crisp, about 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes
V/ 2 medium white onions, peeled
potatoes, chorizo, chipotles, vinegar, 1 tbsp/10 g salt,
2 garlic cloves
and cook to heat through, about 3 minutes. Add the and the sugar and heat through. Taste and add more chipotles if the tinga is not spicy enough.
V A tb s p /1 5 g salt, or as needed
8 . Garnish the tinga with avocado and onion slices. 12 o z/3 4 0 g red-skin potatoes, peeled 2 f I o z/6 0 mL canola oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g Mexican chorizo V / 2 white onions, finely diced 2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, diced 8 canned chipotles in adobo sauce, cut into '/4-in/6-m m strips 4'/2 ts p /2 2 .5 0 mL apple cider vinegar 1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar 2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and thinly sliced V 2 white onion, very thinly sliced
1 . Place the pork in a i2-in/30-cm sautoir and cover with water. Bring just to a boil, drain, and discard the water.
2 . Return the pork to the pot. Add the whole onion, garlic, and water to cover. Season with 1V2 tsp/5 g salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the pork is tender, about 45 minutes.
3 . Drain the pork and discard the broth, onion, and garlic. Allow the pork to cool. Use your fingers or two forks to finely shred the pork. Reserve.
4 . Boil the potatoes in salted water until cooked al dente, about 15 minutes.
5 . Drain the potatoes and allow to cool. Cut into me dium dice and reserve. 6 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat and fry the chorizo until cooked through, 5 to 7 min utes. Drain off the excess fat and reserve the chorizo.
530
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
NOTE: The tinga poblano can be served with boiled rice or black beans and tortillas.
teaming ar
ubmersion Moist-heat techniques— steaming, cooking foods en papillote, shallow poaching, deep poaching, and simmering— rely on liquid and/or water vapor as the cooking medium. Monitoring cooking temperatures and times vigilantly and determining doneness accurately are key to a mastery of moist-heat methods.
C
o o ked s u r r o u n d ed
by w ater va po r
in a c l o s e d c o o k i n g v e s s e l
,
st ea m e d fo o d s have c le a n
,
CLEAR FLAVORS. S T E A M CIRCULATING AROUND THE FOOD PROVIDES AN EVEN, MOIST ENVIRONMENT. S
team in g
po u ltr y m uch
.P
is a n
efficient
an d
r o per ly st ea m e d
o ft h e ir
highly
effectiv e
fo o ds a re p l u m p
original v o l u m e
,
w a y
moist
to
,an
pr epare
d t e n d e r
n a t u r a lly
;t
ten d er
fish
and
h e y g e n e r a l l y do not lose
.
steaming They o fte n re ta in m ore in trin s ic fla v o r than fo o d s cooked by o th e r m ethods because the cooking m edium does not ge ne rally im p a rt much fla v o r o f its own. Colors also stay true. The be st fo o d s fo r stea m ing are n a turally te n d e r and o f a size and shape th a t allow them to cook in a s h o rt am ount o f tim e. Cut fo o d in to the a p p ro p ria te size, if necessary. Fish is ge ne rally cooked as fille ts , though th e re are some ty p ic a l p re se n ta tio n s o f whole fish . S im ilarly, boneless, skinless p o u ltry bre asts (suprem es) steam well. S he llfish can be le ft in th e shell, unless o th e rw ise in dica ted; f o r exam ple, scallops are c u sto m a rily rem oved fro m the shell. Shrim p may also be peeled b e fo re steam ing. M any d iffe re n t liquids are used fo r steam ing. W ater is com mon, b u t a fla v o rfu l b ro th or stock, c o u rt bouillon, wine, or beer can also be used, esp ecially if the stea m ing liquid is served along w ith th e foo d. A dding a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as herbs and spices, citru s zest, lem ongrass, ginger, garlic, and m ushroom s to th e liquid bo osts its fla v o r as w e ll as th a t o f th e fo o d being steam ed. S om etim es fo o d is steam ed on a bed o f vegetables in a closed vessel; th e veg etab le s' natural m oistu re becom es p a rt o f the steam bath cooking the fo o d . Fillings, m arinades, and w ra pp ers can all be used in p re pa ring steam ed foods. Fish is som e tim es w rapped in th is w ay to keep it e x c e p tio n a lly m oist. Sm all am ounts o f fo o d can be steam ed using a sm all in sert. Larger q u a n titie s, or fo o d s th a t req uire d iffe re n t cooking tim es, are b e tte r prepared in a tie re d steam er. It is im p o r ta n t to allow enough room fo r steam to circu la te com p le te ly around fo o d s as th e y cook to encourage even, rapid cooking. Pressure steam ers, which reach higher te m p e ra tu re s than tie re d steam ers, and con vectio n steam ers are good choices fo r stea m ing large q u a n titie s. The ch e f can then p re pare a p p ro p ria te ly sized batches th ro u g h o u t a meal perio d or handle th e m ore intense demands o f a banquet o r in s titu tio n a l meal situ a tio n .
532
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
tn r+
B
0 )
basic formula
Steamed Items
(1 entree portion) 1 portion-size cut (6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g) meat, poultry, or seafood Enough steaming liquid to last
p
Salt and other seasonings for both the main item and
2 to 3 f I oz/60 to 90 mL prepared sauce
p
QTQ
the steaming liquid Additional finishing and garnishing ingredients
throughout the cooking time
method at-a-glance expert tips
Bring the liquid to a boil. 2. Add the main item to the
steamer in a single layer on a rack. 3. Cover the steamer. 4. Steam the food to the
correct doneness.
For additional flavor,
replace some or all of the water with:
BROTH / F R U IT JUICES, SUCH AS O R ANG E, A P PLE, C R A N B E R R Y / STOCK
Depending on the desired result, the liquidcanbe flavored with aromatic vegetables:
5. Serve the food
im m ediately w ith the appropriate sauce and garnish.
CAR R OTS / C E LE R Y / O N IO N S
Depending on the desired result, the liquidcanbe flavored with herbs and spices: BAY LEAF / CHO PPED GA R LIC / CHO PPED P A R S L E Y / CHO PPED T H Y M E / C O R I A N D E R SEEDS / CRACKED PE P PE R C O R NS / C U M IN SEED S / GRATED GING ER
ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N COOKING
533
1. bring the liquid
and any
a d d itio n a l a ro m a tics to a fu ll b o il in a covered vessel. Add enough liq u id to th e b o tto m o f the stea m e r to la st th ro u g h o u t cooking. A dd in g m ore liquid to th e p o t during coo kin g low ers th e coo kin g te m p e ra tu re and lengthens th e tim e needed to pre pa re steam ed foo ds. If you m ust add liquid, pre h e a t it.
m eth o d in d etail 2. place the main item
in th e stea m e r
in a single layer. If c oo kin g m ore than one layer o f fo o d at a tim e , use a tie re d steam er. Foods may be placed on the rack on p la te s or in shallow dishes to c o lle c t any ju ices th a t m ig h t escape. A d ju s t th e heat to m a intain even, m od era te heat. L iq uids do n o t need to be a t a ro llin g b o il in o rd e r to produce steam . In fa c t, rapid b o ilin g may cause th e liquid to cook away to o fa s t. Replace th e lid and steam u n til done. Since stea m ing is done in a closed coo kin g vessel, it can be m ore d iffic u lt than o th e r m etho ds to gauge how lo n g fo o d needs to cook. Recipes may te ll how long to steam fo o d s fo r the c o rre c t doneness. S till, it is im p o rta n t to s ta r t checking fo r doneness a t th e e a rlie s t p o in t a t which th e fo o d m ig ht be done. R em em ber to t i l t th e lid away fro m you as you open it so th a t th e stea m w ill sa fe ly v e n t away fro m your face and hands.
534
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
in
3. cook steamed foods u n til th e y are ju s t done and serve im m e d ia te ly. S team ed fo o d s can easily becom e ru b b e ry and dry, so be c a re fu l n o t to overcook them . Any ju ice s fro m th e fo o d should be nearly colorle ss. When done, th e fle s h o f fis h and s h e llfis h loses its tra n s lucency, ta k in g on a ne arly opaque appearance. The shells o f m ollusks (m ussels, clam s, and oyste rs) open, th e fle s h tu rn s opaque, and th e edges curl. C rustaceans (shrim p, crab, and lo b s te r) have a b rig h t pink or red co lo r when done. P o u ltry tu rn s opaque, and the fle s h o ffe rs litt le re sistance when pressed w ith a fin g e rtip . Serve th e fo o d im m e d ia te ly on heated pla te s w ith an a p p ro p ria te sauce, as desired, o r as in d ica te d by the recipe. R e m e m b e rth a t stea m e d fo o d con tinu es to cook a fte r it com es o u t o f th e steam er. Because no in itia l b ro w n ing o f th e fo o d ta ke s place, th e fla v o r rem ains d e lica te . Any a ro m a tics a p p ro p ria te to th e foo d's fla v o r should n o t be so in te nse as to overw helm th e main item . W hen p ro p e rly done, th e foo d's surface appears q u ite m o ist. Fish, e sp ecially salmon, should not have d e p o sits o f w h ite album in on th e fle sh , w hich in dica te s th a t it has been overcooked a n d /o r cooked to o quickly.
ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
535
In t h is v a r ia t io n
of
s t e a m in g
, w h i c h t r a n s l a t e s l i t e r a l l y a s " i n p a p e r ,” t h e M A I N I T E M A N D
A C C O M P A N Y I N G I N G R E D I E N T S A R E W R A P P E D IN A P A R C H M E N T P A P E R P A C K A G E A N D C O O K E D I N T H E STEAM
PRODUCED
BY T H E IR O W N JU IC E S . E n PA PILLO TE IN D IC A T E S A S P E C IF IC
P R E P A R A T IO N , BUT
TH ER E ARE S IM IL A R D IS H E S , K N O W N BY R E G IO N A L N A M ES, T H R O U G H O U T TH E W O R LD .
joking en papillot The classic w ra pp er f o r a dish en p a p illo te is pa rchm e nt paper, b u t the e ffe c t is sim ila r when alum inum fo il, le ttu ce , plantain, grape o r banana leaves, corn husks, o r sim ila r w ra p pers are used to enclose fo o d s as th e y c oo k— th e w ra p p e r tra p s th e steam driven fro m the fo o d as it heats up. The dish is o fte n p re sen te d to th e gu e st s till in its wrapper, and when th e packet is opened, it releases a cloud o f a ro m a tic steam. Foods prepared en p a p illo te should be cooked u n til ju s t done. This is d iffic u lt to gauge w ith o u t experience, because you cannot open the package to see or fe e l fo r doneness. If the fo o d has been cu t to the c o rre c t size or i f it has been p a rtia lly cooked in advance, it should be done when th e package is very p u ffy and the paper is brown. P e rfo rm in g a fe w te s t runs o f an en p a p illo te dish w ill help esta blish a re liab le cooking tim e fo r th e dish, p ro vid ed th a t th e in g re d ie n ts are c o n s is te n tly prepared beforehand. Cooking en pa p illo te , like steam ing, is su ite d to n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s like chicken, fish , and she llfish . Trim and p o rtio n fo o d as req uire d by th e recipe. It may be m arinate d or seared as an in itia l step, if a p p ro p ria te . A m arinade can add fla v o r and color; searing helps to assure th a t th ic k e r cuts cook m ore qu ickly and deepens bo th the fla v o r and color o f the seared item . Some fo o d s may be fille d or s tu ffe d . Include veg etab le s f o r m o istu re as w e ll as flavo r, color, and te x tu re . Cut th e vegetables sm all, usually in to th in slices, a fin e julienne, o r tin y dice, and sw e at o r blanch them , if nec essary, to ensure th a t th e y w ill be fu lly cooked. Leave herbs in sprigs, cu t the m in to a c h if fonade, or mince them . A lso have available a prepared sauce, reduced heavy cream , wine, or citru s ju ice s as req uire d by the recipe. To cook en p a p illo te , you w ill need parchm ent paper (or o th e r w ra pp ers as required by the recipe), sizzler p la tte rs o r baking sheets, and service item s. Cut the w ra pp er large enough to allow th e fo o d and any a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts to f i t c o m fo rta b ly w ith o u t over crow ding.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Cooking en Papillote (1 entree portion) 1 portion (4 to 6 oz/113 to 170 g) prepared meat, poultry, or seafood
Up to 2 tbsp/30 mL of a cooking liquid (stock, sauce,
Salt and other seasonings
wine) or enough naturally moist vegetables to produce steam
Additional finishing and garnishing ingredients, as desired
method at-a-glance Cut parchment paper into a heart shape o f the appropriate size and bu tter or oil it. 2. Place a bed o f aromatics,
vegetables, or sauce on one half o f the paper, then top the bed w ith main item. 3. Fold the paper in half; fold
and crimp the edges. 4. Place the paper packet on a
hot sizzler platter.
cooking en papillote
Q basic formula
expert tips To develop additional flavor,
choose well-seasoned liquids
to produce the steam that will cook the main item: STOCK / BROTH / W IN E / SAUCES
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly into the packages will infuse flavor throughout the cook ing process. Certain ingredients, such as moist vegetables, can also create additional steam: M IR E P O IX / VEG E TAB LE S / FRESH HERBS
5. Bake the packet until it is
puffed and browned. 6. Plate the packet and serve it immediately.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
537
1. assemble the packages, cut the p a rchm e nt or o th e r w ra p p e r in to h e a rt o r o th e r shapes large enough to hold th e fo o d on one h a lf w ith a l- in /3 - c m m argin o f paper all th e w ay around. L ig h tly o il or b u tte r th e w ra p p e r on both sides to p re ve n t it fro m burning. Arrange a bed o f vegetables, a ro m atics, or sauce on one h a lf o f the w ra p p e r and to p it w ith th e main item .
m eth o d in d etail 2. fold over the other half,
then
crim p th e edges o f th e paper or fo il, or tie th e pa cket se cu re ly to seal it. Sealing th e edges o f th e package keeps in th e steam so th a t it can p ro p e rly cook th e food.
538
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
th e package is p u ffe d and th e paper is brow ned. C a re fu lly m o n ito r th e oven te m p e ra tu re , because d e lic a te fo o d s such as fis h f ille t s can ove rcoo k quickly. As th e package cools, it w ill begin to d e fla te , so serve en p a p illo te dishes as soon as possible. For a d ra m a tic p re se n ta tio n , have th e se rve r cu t open th e package in fr o n t o f th e guest. M eats, fish , and p o u ltry pre pa red en p a p illo te or by s im ila r tech niq ue s should be cooked acco rding to doneness stan dard s f o r th e kitch e n o r to gu est p re fe r ence (see T em peratures and D e scrip tio n s o f Degrees o f Doneness, page 36 7). Sauces, coo kin g liquids, and o th e r
cooking en papillote
3. place the package on a sizzler p la tte r o r baking she et and bake in a m edium oven u n til
in g re d ie n ts should also have a fu ll fla v o r and be p ro p e rly cooked.
Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
539
S h a l l o w P O A C H I N G , L I K E S A U T E I N G A N D G R I L L I N G , IS A N A L A M I N U T E T E C H N I Q . U E . F O O D S A R E C O O K E D IN A C O M B IN A T IO N
OF STEAM
AND S IM M E R IN G
LIQ.UID. S h A L L O W P O A C H E D
FO O D S ARE P A RTIALLY
S U B M E R G E D IN L I Q . U I D , W H I C H O F T E N C O N T A I N S A N A C I D ( w i N E O R L E M O N J U I C E ) . A R O M A T I C S , S U C H A S S H A L L O T S A N D H E R B S , A R E A D D E D F O R M O R E F L A V O R . C O V E R T H E PA N T O C A P T U R E S O M E O F T H E S T E A M R E L E A S E D B Y T H E LIQ.U ID D U R I N G C O O K I N G .
shallow poaching A s ig n ific a n t am ount o f fla v o r is tra n s fe rre d fro m the fo o d to the cooking liquid. For m axi mum flavo r, th e cooking liquid (cuisson) is usually reduced and used as th e base fo r a sauce. The acids give th e sauce a b rig h t, balanced flavo r. B u tte r can be easily e m u lsifie d in the sauce; beurre blanc is o fte n the sauce o f choice f o r shallow -poached foo ds. As f o r steam ing, n a tu ra lly te n d e r fo o d s o f a size and shape th a t allow fo r quick cook ing w o rk best. Fish, s h e llfish , and chicken bre asts are am ong th e m o st com m on o p tio n s fo r th is cooking m ethod. Trim th e main ite m as a p p ro p ria te . Remove bones o r skin fro m fis h to make fille ts o r fro m p o u ltry to make suprem es or boneless, skinless b re a s t po rtion s. Fish fille ts may be ro lle d o r fo ld e d around a s tu ffin g to fo rm p a u p ie tte s (see page 411), w ith the bone side o f the fis h show ing on the e xte rio r. Remove sh e llfish fro m th e shell, if desired. The poaching liquid c o n trib u te s fla v o r to th e fo o d as w e ll as to th e sauce prepared fro m it. Choose rich bro th s o r stocks and add wine, vinegar, o r c itru s ju ice as a p pro pria te . Cut aro m atics fin e or m ince them . O th e r in g re d ie n ts to be served along w ith th e sauce as a garnish should be cu t n e a tly in to s trip s , dice, julienne, or ch iffo n a d e . These in gre die nts are o fte n sw eated or parcooked f ir s t to develop the b e st possible fla v o r as w ell as to make ce rta in th a t all p a rts o f the fin is h e d dish are fu lly cooked a t the same tim e. The sauce may be a beurre blanc or sauce vin blanc (page 298), or sim p ly th e reduced cooking liquids. R e fe r to sp e c ific recipes fo r a d d itio n a l suggestions o r guidance. Use a s a u to ir o r o th e r shallow cooking vessel, such as a h o te l pan, to shallow poach. S e le ct the pan o r baking dish ca re fu lly; if th e re is to o much or to o little space le ft around th e fo o d , it may over- or undercook, o r th e re may be to o much o r to o litt le liquid f o r the sauce. B u tte re d o r oiled pa rchm e nt paper o r a lo o s e -fittin g lid is used to cover th e pan loosely as th e fo o d cooks. It tra p s enough o f th e steam to cook the unexposed p a rt o f th e fo o d , b u t n o t so much th a t the cooking speed rises. You may req uire a s tra in e r fo r the sauce. You w ill also need u te n sils f o r handling th e poached fo o d , such as a s lo tte d spatula, and heated plates fo r service.
540
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
shallow
Q basic formula Shallow Poaching
1 oz/28 g butter
Salt and other seasonings for both the food and the poaching liquid
V i oz/14 g shallots 1 portion (4 to 6 oz/113 to 170 g) boneless, skinless fish or chicken breast
Additional finishing 1 fl oz/30 mL white wine and 1 fl oz/30 mL white stock, according to the portion being cooked
ingredients, including prepared sauce and garnishes
'I
method at-a-glance
expert tips
Heat b u tte r in a sauteuse.
To develop additional flavor,
Smother the aromatics in the pan and make a level bed.
ing liquids:
Add the main item and the poaching liquid. 4. Bring the liquid to a simmer. 5. Cover the sautoir with
parchment paper.
choose well-seasoned poach
STOCK / BROTH / W IN E / SAUCES
A cuisson
can also be used in a way that does not require reduction but
as a broth-type liquid in which to serve the main item. This method is some times refered to as "a la nage."
Depending on the desired result, thecookingliquidcan
6. Finish the food over direct heat or in an oven.
be used to create a sauce to finish the poached item.
7. Remove the main item,
upy. It may be strained into a separate pot at this point, if desired. With the re
moisten it, and keep it warm. Reduce the cuisson and prepare a sauce as desired. 9. Serve the main item
with the sauce and the appropriate garnish.
poaching
(1 entree portion)
To make a beurre blanc:
Reduce the cooking liquid until it is syr
duced cooking liquid at a simmer, add pieces of cold butter a few at a time. Keep the pan in motion as you add the butter, swirling it into the sauce as it melts.
To make a sauce vin blanc:
Reduce the cooking liquid and add
the desired aromatics and an appropriately flavored veloute. Strain the sauce if necessary and finish with cream or a liaison and any additional garnishes.
For more inform ation
about preparing sauces for shallow-
poached items, refer to specific recipes.
Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
541
1. make sure
th e level o f the liquid goes no
higher than o n e -th ird to h a lfw a y up th e fo o d ; generally, less is req uire d. If to o much liq u id is used, e ith e r a g re a t deal o f tim e w ill be needed to reduce it p ro p e rly or only p a rt o f it w ill be usable in th e sauce. L ig h tly b u tte r a shallow pan and add a ro m a tics to give th e cooking liquid and fin is h e d sauce a good flavo r. If the a ro m a tics can cook co m p le te ly in the tim e required, they can be added raw; o th e rw ise , cook the m sep ara te ly be fo re h a n d by sw e a tin g lig h tly in th e b u tte r. Season and place th e m ain ite m on to p o f the a ro m a t ics, the n pour th e liq u id around th e item . It is n o t neces sary in m o st cases to pre h e a t th e liquid, though fo r large q u a n titie s , it may be h e lp fu l to do so. Be ca re fu l n o t to bring it to a fu ll boil.
2. cover the paupiettes w ith b u tte re d pa rchm e nt paper (cartouche) b e fo re p u ttin g the m in the oven. It is b e st to fin is h poaching fo o d s in th e oven be cause oven heat is m ore even and g e n tle than d ire c t heat. It also fre e s b u rne r space f o r o th e r purposes. B rin g th e liquid u p to poaching te m p e ra tu re (16 0° to 1 8 0 °F /7 1 ° to 82°C) over d ire c t heat, loosely covered w ith pa rchm e nt paper, and fin is h in a m od era te oven. On som e occasions, however, it is p re fe ra b le to p e rfo rm th e e n tire cooking o p e ra tio n in th e oven. The q u a n tity o f fo o d pre pa red and th e ava ila ble e q uipm en t w ill d ic ta te w h a t is m o s t logical. Do n o t allow th e liquid to boil a t any tim e . A rapid bo il w ill cook th e fo o d to o quickly, a ffe c tin g th e q u a lity o f th e dish, and may cause all o f the liquid to eva po rate fro m th e pan, p o ssib ly scorching th e pro te in .
542
M EATS, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
shallow
3. cook shallow-poached foods u n til ju s t done. Fish and s h e llfis h should appear opaque and fe e l s lig h tly firm ; th e fle s h o f o yste rs, clam s, and m ussels should curl around th e edges. Chicken suprem es
poaching
should appear opaque and o ffe r s lig h t re sista n ce when pressed w ith a fin g e rtip . T ransfer th e p a u p ie tte s to a ho ld ing dish and m oisten w ith a sm all am ount o f th e cooking liquid to keep them fro m d rying o u t w h ile th e sauce is prepared. Cover the fo o d tig h tly to hold in th e heat and pre ven t dehydration. Add the a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts f o r th e sauce to th e coo k ing liquid as d ire c te d in th e recipe. When w ell prepared, shallow -poached dishes re fle c t th e fla v o r o f bo th the fo o d and th e cooking liquid, and th e sauce adds a rich, com ple m en ta ry flavo r. In general, fo o d s appear m oist, opaque, and re la tiv e ly lig h t in color. Fish should n o t have d e p o sits o f w h ite album in, w hich in dica tes th a t it has been over cooked o r cooked to o quickly. P ro p e rly cooked shallow poached fo o d s are very te n d e r and e x c e p tio n a lly m oist. And because th is tech niq ue is m o st o fte n used w ith d e li cate foo ds, th e y have an a lm o st fra g ile te x tu re . If th e y are fa llin g a p a rt o r dry, however, the y have been overcooked.
4. simmer the cooking liquid (cuisson) over d ire c t heat to c o n c e n tra te th e fla v o r and th icke n th e liquid. A p re pa red fis h ve lo u te has been added to th e reduced cuisson here. O th e r o p tio n s include re duced cream, veg e ta b le purees, o r b u tte r.
Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
543
D e e p p o a c h in g
a nd
s im m e r in g
call
for
fo o d
to
be
c o m p le te ly
s u b m e r g ed
in
a
l i q .u i d
at
a
C O N S T A N T , M O D E R A T E T E M P E R A T U R E . T h e A I M O F D E E P P O A C H I N G A N D S I M M E R I N G I S T H E S A M E — TO PRODUCE FO OD S TH AT ARE M O IS T A N D E X T R E M E L Y T E NDE R. T h e D IS T IN G U IS H IN G FACTORS BETW EEN T H E T W O M E T H O D S A R E D I F F E R E N C E S IN C O O K IN G T E M P E R A T U R E A N D A P P R O P R IA T E T Y P E S O F F O O D . D e e p p o a c h in g
is
d o n e
at
a
lo w er
t e m p e r a tu r e
a nd
is
b etter
s u it e d
to
n a tu r a lly
ten d er
CUTS OF MEAT, PO ULTRY, OR FISH .
deep poaching and simmering S im m ering occurs at s lig h tly higher te m p e ra tu re , so th a t th e to u g h e r cuts can becom e te n der and m o ist during cooking. Item s to be deep poached should be n a tu ra lly ten der; those to be sim m ered need not be since the sim m e ring process w ill te n d e rize them . Though p o rtio n -s iz e cuts are o fte n used— chicken qu arters, fo r exam ple— poached and sim m ered ite m s also include dressed fish, w hole birds, or large pieces o f meat. W rap dressed fis h in cheesecloth to p ro te c t it fro m breaking a p a rt during cooking. S tu ff the p o u ltry, if desired, and tru s s it to help re ta in its shape. S tu ff m eats, i f desired, and tie them to m aintain th e ir shape. The liquid used in deep poaching and sim m e ring should be w ell fla vo re d . For m eat and p o u ltry, se le ct a w ell-d eve lop ed sto ck o f th e a p p ro p ria te flavo r. For fis h and she llfish , use fis h stock, fu m e t, wine, or a c o u rt bouillon. A ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as herbs and spices, wine, vegetables, veg etab le juices, or c itru s ze st may be added to th e cooking liquid to enhance th e fla v o r o f th e fin is h e d dish. The arom atics, seasonings, and fla vo rin g s should e ith e r b o ls te r or com p le m e nt th e fla v o r o f the fo o d in a balanced way. See sp e c ific recipes f o r in s tru c tio n s on p re pa ring and adding these ingredients. Deep-poached and sim m ered fo o d s are o fte n served w ith a sauce th a t is prepared separately. "B o ile d" beef, fo r instance, is tra d itio n a lly served w ith a horseradish sauce, and poached salmon is o fte n served w ith a w arm b u tte r em ulsion sauce, such as bearnaise or m ousseline. See sp e c ific recipes fo r sauce suggestions. The p o t used fo r deep poaching or sim m ering should hold the food, liquid, and arom atics co m fo rta b ly, w ith enough room to allow the liquid to expand as it heats. There should also be enough space so th a t the surface can be skim m ed if necessary th ro u g h o u t cooking. A tig h tf it tin g lid may be helpful fo r bringing the liquid up to tem pe rature . Leaving a lid on throu gh out the cooking process may actually cause the liquid to become h o tte r than desired. O th er h e lp fu l eq uipm en t includes ladles or skim m ers, holding con tain ers to keep the fo o d warm , carving boards, and slicers. An in sta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r is h e lp fu l to m o n ito r th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e cooking liquid; it can be d iffic u lt to see th e d iffe re n c e betw een a liquid a t a p e rfe c t poaching te m p e ra tu re and one th a t is a degree o r tw o away fro m a slow boil. The d iffe re n c e to th e fo o d can be q u ite im p o rta n t.
544
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F IS H
basic formula
Deep Poaching (1 entree portion) One portion (6 oz/170 g)
About 10 fl oz/300 mL court bouillon, stock, or other liquid
Salt and other seasonings for both the food and the liquid
Assorted vegetables
Additional ingredients, including
fish, chicken, or meat
prepared sauce and garnishes
method at-a-glance expert tips
Bring the cooking liquid to a simmer. 2. Add the main item, using
To develop additional flavor,
a rack if necessary. Make sure the item is fully submerged.
choose well-seasoned poach
ing liquids: STOCK /B R O T H /W I N E
3. Cover the food if directed
Additional ingredients
by the recipe.
deep poaching and sim m ering
B
may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly to the poaching liquid will infuse flavor throughout the
4. Finish the food over direct
cooking process.
heat or in an oven.
M IR E P O IX / VEG E TA B LE S / FRESH HERBS
5. Remove the main item,
moisten it, and keep it warm while preparing a sauce, or cool it in liquid, as appropriate.
The poaching liquid
can be strained depending on the desired
result.
w
Chapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
545
1. lower the food into fumetthat has been b ro u g h t to the a p p ro p ria te poaching te m p e ra tu re (1 6 0 ° to 1 8 5 ° F /7 1 ° to 85°C). Be sure th a t the pan is n o t overcrow d ed o r th e fo o d w ill cook unevenly. Some fo o d s are s ta rte d o f f in cool liquid. Poaching liquid should be a t 16 0° to 1 8 5 °F /7 1 ° to 85°C. The surface o f th e liquid may show some m otion, som e tim es called shivering, b u t no a ir bubbles should break th e surface. S im m e ring liquid w ill have sm all bub bles g e n tly b re aking th e surface and should be betw een 1 8 5 ° and 2 0 0 °F /8 5 ° and 93°C. The poaching liquid can be stra in e d de pe nd ing on th e desired resu lt.
method in detail 2. submerge the food completely in th e liquid. If a p a rt o f th e fo o d is above th e level o f th e coo kin g liquid, th e coo kin g w ill be uneven and th e f in ished p ro d u c t w ill n o t have th e p ro p e r d e lica te color. The fo o d may also look raw w here th e liquid did n o t cover it co m p le te ly. M a in ta in th e p ro p e r coo kin g speed th ro u g h o u t the poaching o r sim m e rin g process u n til th e fo o d is done. S kim as necessary and ad ju st seasoning th ro u g h o u t the co o kin g tim e . If a cover is used, m o n ito r th e cooking te m p e ra tu re reg ularly. Covering a p o t cre a te s pressure, w hich raises the te m p e ra tu re o f th e liquid. S e ttin g th e lid s lig h tly ajar is a good p re ca u tio n to be ce rta in th a t th e liquid does not in a d v e rte n tly com e to a boil.
546
M EAT S, POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
poached o r sim m e red ite m is to be served cold, it may be desira ble to s lig h tly un de rcook it. Remove th e p o t fro m th e heat and le t th e fo o d cool in th e poaching liquid, which w ill re ta in enough heat to co m p le te th e cooking process. Cool th e liq u id in an ice w a te r bath to p re ve n t b a c te ria l g ro w th . Once it has reached room te m p e ra tu re , rem ove th e fo o d f o r any fu rth e r p re p a ra tio n . The liquid may be used to poach o r sim m e r o th e r item s. P ro p e rly deep-poached o r sim m ered p o u ltry and m eats are fo rk ten der, and any ju ice s fro m p o u ltry are nearly colorle ss. P o u ltry fle s h ta ke s on an evenly opaque appearance and o ffe rs litt le re sista n ce when pressed w ith a fin g e rtip . W hen w hole birds are fu lly cooked, the legs move ea sily in th e sockets. When p ro p e rly cooked, th e fle s h o f f is h and sh e llfis h is s lig h tly firm and has lo s t its transluce ncy, ta k in g on a ne arly opaque appearance. S h e llfish open and th e edges o f th e fle s h curl. Shrim p, crab, and lo b s te r have a b rig h t pink or red color.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
deep poaching and simm ering
3. poach the food u n til p ro p e rly done. Tests fo r doneness va ry fro m one fo o d ty p e to another. If a
547
sous vide Though its beginnings are a lm o st 40 years old, the
The vacuum th a t sous vide p ro d u cts are sub je cte d
p o p u la rity and w idesp rea d use o f sous vide has grow n
to rem oves any re sista n ce th e p ro d u cts have to co u n te r
en orm o usly in re ce n t years in th is c o u n try and abroad.
th e fo rc e s fro m th e a ir around them . This, in e ffe c t, cre
The French te rm m e a ning"und er vacuum " has m orphed
ates a pressure on th e e x te rio r o f th e bag and p ro d u ct
in to som e th in g th a t encom passes a m odern con cep t and
th a t n o t only fo rm s th e p ro d u c t in to an a ttra c tiv e shape
approach to cooking. It can be sum m arized as the a p p li
b u t encourages it to absorb any a ro m a tics th a t may
catio n o f h e a t t o a f o o d p r o d u c t t h a t is v acuum -seale d
be included along w ith it in th e a irtig h t area. This same
in a v ir t u a lly -im p e rv io u s -to -a ir p la s t ic ba g and cooked
vacuum also low ers th e b o ilin g p o in t o f w a te r th a t is
f o r a r e la tiv e ly long p e r io d o f tim e a t a pre cis e low t e m
p re s e n t in th e p ro du ct's cells, w hich w ill cause i t to boil
perature. This c o m b in a tio n o f fa c to rs allow s th e ch e f to
and ru p tu re th e cells i f th e p ro d u c t is to o w arm when
achieve rem a rkab le re su lts th a t can be rep rod uced e f
processed. For th is reason, p ro d u cts pre pa red f o r sous
fic ie n tly a t a high level o f p re cisio n and accuracy.
vide m ust be k e p t v e ry cold p rio r to packaging.
BASIC FOOD SCIENCE OF SOUS VIDE COOKING
tem p e ra tu re s to sous vide applications can also be ap
The heating hardw are th a t norm ally delivers precise
plied to non-sous vide item s, w ith the in te ntio n o f p ro vid ing th a t same precision and stable heat source fo r lo w -
L o w -te m p e ra tu re cooking has long been e sta b lish e d as th e p re fe rre d m ethod f o r to u g h cuts o f m eat w ith large am ounts o f c onnective tissue . W ith p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re , ap plied in a m o is t-h e a t en viro nm en t, all th e fib ro u s t is sue w ill slo w ly d issolve in to g e la tin and c o n trib u te to a
tem p e ra tu re cooking to products th a t are not in bags. An excellent example o f th is approach is the technique o f cooking eggs in th e shell w ith a the rm a l circulator, wherein the coagulation tem pe rature s o f the eggs’ d iffe re n t pro tein s can be ta rg e te d and atta in e d to one's liking.
m o ist fin a l pro du ct. This w ould n o rm ally e n ta il cooking th e p ro d u c t f o r a long perio d o f tim e and su b je ctin g it to th e degrading e ffe c ts o f o x id a tio n as w e ll as unsafe m ic ro b io lo g ic a l co n d itio n s. So, ty p ic a lly , th e tra d itio n a l
The basic goal o f any ty p e o f c oo kin g th a t one may em
te m p e ra tu re s em ployed render the p ro d u c t safe but
ploy, tra d itio n a l or sous vide, is to m axim ize the org an o
also d e na tu re th e m uscle fib e rs , causing th e m to in itia lly
le p tic q u a litie s (color, ju icin ess, tenderness, flavo r, etc.)
toughen and release all th e ir w a te r, and th e re b y p ro d u c
o f th e fin is h e d pro du ct, w h ile g u ara ntee ing its s a fe ty
ing a d ry and fla v o rle s s overcooked p ro d u c t w ith a poor
and s h e lf life . Though tra d itio n a l and sous vide coo k
n u tritio n a l p ro file .
ing m etho ds have many th in g s in common, and s im ila r
But by p re cise ly c o n tro llin g th e te m p e ra tu re in
re s u lts are achievable w ith e ith e r m ethod, sous vide
the sous vide process, th e tou gh con ne ctive tissu e can
pro vid es o p p o rtu n itie s to th e ch e f to in co rp o ra te the
be tra n s fo rm e d , over tim e , in to silky g e la tin w h ile the
be st o f bo th the o rg a n o le p tic q u a litie s and s a fe ty and
m uscle fib e rs are n o t d e na tu red and all th e ir in he rent
s h e lf life in one approach. And even though it should not
ju ices are retaine d. The e n viro n m e n t w ith in th e bag also
be considered a p re s e rv a tio n tech niq ue per se, p ro p e rly
e lim in a te s o x id a tio n and p re ven ts any in h e re n t m o istu re
cooked sous vide fo o d s do have an increased sh e lf life.
in th e p ro d u c t fro m evaporating. This ty p e o f te m p e ra tu re c o n tro l can be applied to red m eats th a t re q u ire va ryin g degrees o f doneness as w ell. C e rta in p ro te in -te n d e riz in g enzym es, n a tu ra lly fo u n d in th e tissue , are a c tiv a te d a t th e low sous vide te m p e ra tu re s and c o n trib u te s u b s ta n tia lly to producing a m ore te n d e r p ro d u c t even if cooked rare.
Some o f th e b e n e fits are as fo llo w s: JUICINESS: due to the retention of inherent mois ture and reabsorption of cooking juices (exudates) and the complete gelation of connective tissue in meats. INCREASED YIELD: due to reduced shrinkage from
The gentle cooking cycle, coupled w ith an equally
no evaporation or moisture loss, as well as reduced
gentle cooling phase and pressure created by the vacuum,
fa t loss fo r low -fat m elt-point items like foie gras.
ensures th a t any juices, called exudates, are ste a d ily reab sorbed in to the product, thus increasing its juiciness.
548
KEY PROCESSES AND BENEFITS OF USE
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
CONSISTENCY: o f color and tex tu re throughout the
m uscular connective tissu e and its con dition. As w ith
product— no "averaging"; this indicates there is no
any a p p lica tio n o f heat to pro te in , th e re is an im m ediate
range of doneness throughout the product: all is of
re tra c tio n o f m uscle fib e rs th a t re su lts in a hardening o f
one doneness. A t this point it is up to the individual
th a t p ro te in and eventual w a te r loss if the te m p e ra tu re
if they w ant to sear the product to add M aillard
becom es extrem e . In o rd e r to cou nter these e ffe c ts , it is
browning. ENHANCED FLAVOR AND NUTRITION: achieved by having the liquid cooking medium not come in direct contact with the food, thereby assuring that no flavor or nutrients are lost to the cooking liquid; aromatics and marinades are more pronounced and effective; freshness is retained and no oxidation occurs.
necessary, eventually, to render the tissu e m ore soluble by th e process o f hydrolysis, or breaking down o f the tissu e by re a ctin g w ith w ater. And as anyone who has cooked a braised piece o f m eat knows, th is takes tim e. The c o n ce p t o f Sous Vide versus T ra d itio n a l cooking can be reduced to tw o sim p le te rm s: C o nce ntration and D ilu tio n . D ry-h e a t and m o is t-h e a t tra d itio n a l cooking have
UN IFO RM SHAPE: especially when bags with
b e n e fits , b u t th e y com e a t a price. The intense searing
shrinkable properties are used, or gentle pressure
o f p ro te in in o rd e r to develop a pleasing "cru st" w ith
fo r delicate items.
accom panying M a illa rd fla v o r p ro file does so at the
TEXTURE MODIFICATION: delicately textured foods can also be compressed or altered fo r pleas ing e ffe cts and fla v o r/te x tu re shifts.
expense o f m o is tu re and w ith re q u is ite shrinkage and reduced yie ld. Even th e g e n tle s t a p p lica tio n o f heat in a m o is t-h e a t tr a d itio n a l coo kin g approach ten ds to ove rcoo k th e e x te rio r o f m o st fo o d s tu ffs over tim e
SAFETY: in-package pasteurization avoids recon
by d ra w in g o u t all th e m o istu re w h ile oxid izin g it. Even
tam ination, equating to a microbiologically safe
g e n tle sim m e rin g draw s o u t th e in h e re n t m o istu re o f a
product w ith extended shelf life.
p ro d u ct, as w ell as ce rta in v ita l fla v o r com ponents and
GREEN MERITS: reduced energy use as well as savings in labor, equipment, cleanup, and chem ical/ biological waste. Processing and storage space is minimized; service to customer is sim plified, e f ficien t, and precise/accurate. A braised piece o f m eat w ill ta ke several hours to
n u tritio n a l vatue. This is d ilu tio n . And though stea m ing is a h e a lth y technique, even it is to o extre m e a heat source f o r c e rta in d e lic a te ite m s like seafood. In technical term s, the d iffe re n ce between the applied cooking te m p e ra tu re and the finished core tem pe rature o f a pro d u ct is known as delta T or sim ply AT. The larger th is num ber is, the m ore energy m om entum the product
becom e a cce p ta b ly tender, and a ro a ste d ite m w ill also
has, which relates to the am ount o f carryover cooking th a t
req uire its p ro p e r am ount o f tim e in o rd e r to achieve the
is probable once energy is applied, the m olecules are ex
c o rre c t core te m p e ra tu re . The ro a ste d piece w ill yie ld a
cited, and the in te rio r o f the pro d u ct begins to accumulate
rosy c e n te r w ith a som e w h at w e ll-d o n e and dry e xte rio r.
heat. Since the size o f the w indow fo r e rro r is reduced due
The braise w ill re s u lt in an oxidize d gray p ro d u c t void o f
to th e use o f high tem pe rature s, the slig h te st abuse in this
liquid and w ith dim inishe d n u tritio n a l value th a t req uire s
regard w ill re su lt in a dry a n d /o r tough product. The re
its b ra isin g ju ice s to p ro vid e th e re q u is ite fla v o r f o r a
verse then is also true, and accounts fo r the accuracy th a t
s a tis fy in g dish.
can be achieved w ith a low te m p e ra tu re and small AT ap
But w h at if the f ir s t aspect o f th is cooking could be
proach. The la tte r m ethod allows the chef a w ider margin
achieved w ith o u t the second ta kin g place? This is possible
o f e rro r th a t m ight prevent any overshoot in tem pe rature
w ith sous vide. It allows you to cook an en tire piece o f p ro
and overcooking o f the product.
tein w ith con sisten t and un iform color and te xtu re , while retaining all o f its juiciness, enhanced flavor, and n u tritio n . The "averaged” co lo r o f m ost cooked m eat is o b v i
By em ploying a v irtu a lly im p erm ea ble-to-air plastic pouch, sous vide cooking tra p s all o f the essential flavo rs and even concentrates them to a certain point. The very
ously de pendent on th e te m p e ra tu re it is sub je cte d to
low cooking tem pe rature s, coupled w ith the vacuum bag,
and re su lts desired. Its tenderness, on th e o th e r hand,
produce te n d e r fo o d s tu ffs th a t are juicy, evenly cooked
is a b it m ore com plex o f an issue. This in he rent q u a lity
through, w ith high yield and a ttra c tiv e color and shape
in m eat is d ire c tly re la te d to th e species and m a tu rity
(and even rosy braises if desired). The "crusting" th a t is
o f the animal, which in tu rn is linked to th e am ount o f
highly appreciated on the surface o f proteins subjected
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
PROCEDURES It is important to deliver consistent heat to all
necessary to cook the product to the desired done
parts of the product for reasons of even cooking
ness, and to pasteurize and render it safe for stor
and pasteurization. Therefore, since water is up
age and later reheating and service.
to a hundred times more efficient in transferring
After the cooking is completed, the bag is
heat energy than air is, the water bath is a preferred
submerged in an ice and water bath (at least 50
cooking medium. A precise and accurate heat
percent ice) until a 37-4°F/ 3°C core temperature is
source is required as well, so most chefs employ
reached within two hours. This temperature must
a thermal circulator, monitored with a digital ther
be achieved or the product should be discarded.
mometer fitted with needle probe, for delivering the
The bag is then labeled with product, date, time,
best performance.
and discard date. It is stored in a 3740F/3°C or low
Raw or marked (seared/grilled) product that
er refrigerator (or frozen) with electronic logging
is thoroughly chilled to 42.8°F/6°C or less is intro
capabilities for a prescribed amount of time (see
duced to a laminated and extruded plastic bag. It is
your local HACCP Food Code); at which point it
lined up, and adjusted with spacer blocks, to cen
must be served or discarded. When reheating for
ter the bag edge with the sealing bar of the cham-
service, the bag is dropped into an appropriately
ber-type vacuum machine. The machine is then pro
heated water bath until the core temperature is
grammed for the amount of vacuum desired (type
achieved, and then opened and promptly served.
of product, shape, etc.), any post evacuation time required (if product is porous), and the amount of
During the entire process from start to finish, scrupulous log-keeping must be employed regard
sealing time, which depends on the thickness and
ing the cooking, chilling, storage, and reheating
characteristics of the plastic used.
temperatures and times, as well as discard dates,
The sealed bag is briefly chilled and then placed in the appropriate-temperature bath
and kept on record for a minimum amount of time (see local HACCP Food Code).
and kept there for the requisite amount of time
The equipment necessary fo r immersion cooking. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: vacuum sealer, immersion thermocirculator, digital thermometer, needle probe, vacuum bags
550
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
sous vide
Do not overcrowd the vacuum bag. Food items inside the bag should never be touching.
Be sure to place the vacuum bag onto the vacuum sealer carefully with enough of the bag over hanging the edge of the sealer to create a clean seal.
When the thermocirculator is set in the water bath, it is absolutely essential fo r the level of the water surrounding the vacuum bag to be kept above the level of the return pipe at all times. If the water level falls below the return pipe, the machine could possibly be damaged.
A properly sealed vacuum bag.
To prevent air and moisture from escaping the sealed bag, apply a piece of closed cell foam tape to the area where you will insert the thermometer probe. Gently insert the thermometer probe through the tape and into the piece of meat.
Submerge the bag in an ice bath composed of at least 50% ice.
The texture of a meat is determined by the structure of its muscle fibers and the connective tissues that harness the individual mus cle fibers into bundles. A t left, muscle fibers encased by sheets of connective tissue. At right, a cross-section of fiber bundles.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
551
to dry-h ea t cooking m ethods can be applied quickly eith er
tim e /te m p e ra tu re ta b le s th a t th e FDA publishes in its
be fore or a fte r the the rm a l processing o f the product. In
Food Code as gu id eline s th a t m ust be fo llo w e d in ord e r
th is manner the fo o d be n e fits fro m the tenderness and
to re n de r cooked and raw fo o d safe fo r con sum p tion to
juiciness o f g e n tly applied heat, as w e ll as th e ro b u st
th e pu blic (FDA.gov). HACCP is a ris k assessm ent th a t
fla v o rs achieved fro m M a illa rd re a ctio n com pounds.
is im p o rta n t to th e consumer, chef, and th e pro du ct. It
O bviously, only p ris tin e and a b s o lu te ly fre s h p ro d
is th is "ris k " th a t is a t th e h e a rt o f sous vide s a fe ty and
ucts should be u tiliz e d fo r sous vide tre a tm e n t, since
req uire s a c e rta in am ount o f know ledge and tra in in g on
th e process n o t only m a g n ifie s and co n ce n tra te s th e in
th e p a rt o f the ch e f em p lo ying it.
he ren t fla v o rs , b u t any undesirable ones as w ell. It is fo r
The sous vide en viro n m e n t (w ith in the bag) creates
th is "co n ce n tra tio n " reason th a t th e a d d itio n o f calcu
a zone th a t p re ven ts o x id a tio n and in h ib its th e g ro w th
la te d dosages o f seasonings and a ro m a tics be ju d icio u s
o f e x is tin g spoilage and pa thog en ic aerobic ba cte ria by
and tig h tly c o n tro lle d . Raw g a rlic and u n re fin e d oils
d e p riv in g bo th o f oxygen. A t th e same tim e it is a place
som e tim es te n d to produce ve ry pronounced and stro n g
conducive to anaerobic spoilage and pathogenic bac
o f f fla v o rs due to th e ir breakdow n du rin g long cooking
te ria , e sp ecially i f th e p ro d u c t is te m p e ra tu re abused.
tim e s .1The na ture o f veg etab le s also poses a problem
Though m any o f th e se organism s could be co n tro lle d
when th e y are cooked a n d /o r used as a ro m atics, since
w ith adequate ph and sa lt, sous vide processing does so
th e ir sta rch and cellulose -bou nd p e ctin is soluble a t a
m ainly w ith th e c o n tro ls o f te m p e ra tu re and tim e .3
te m p e ra tu re w e ll above th o se used fo r coo kin g p ro te in s.
It is im p e ra tiv e then th a t fo o d s tu ffs o f im peccable
So, i f used as aro m atics, th e y m ust be a lte re d b e fo re
q u a lity be used fo r sous vide processing, since th e risk
th e y are in tro d u ce d to the package.
fo r surface c o n ta m in a tio n is g re a tly reduced. If s u f f i
O riginally, fo o d s packaged and cooked in a ir-fre e or
cie n t heat tre a tm e n t is supplied to pa ste u rize th e p ro d
m o d ifie d -a ir packages were done so a t high te m p e ra
u ct du rin g processing, the n all ve g e ta tiv e (active) fo rm s
tu re s in ord er to ensure m icrobiological safe ty, b u t w ith
o f p a thog en ic and spoilage b a cte ria w ill be de stro yed
dim inished resu lts in color, flavor, and te xtu re . The m od
or s ig n ific a n tly in a c tiv a te d . The only real th re a ts to
ern m ethod, re fe rre d to as "rig h t-te m p e ra tu re cooking"2
th e process are th e ce rta in s p o re -fo rm in g ba cte ria like
utilizes low tem pe rature s coupled w ith extended cooking
C lo s trid iu m p e rfrin g e n s and Botulinum, whose spores
tim es th a t are calculated to produce the m ost desirable
are, to a large degree, heat re s is ta n t. But th e ir g ro w th
sensory results while being pasteurized and m icro bio lo gi-
can be sa fe ly c o n tro lle d if th e p ro d u c t is sto re d a t less
cally safe. In th is regard, sous vide is as much a cooking
than 3 7 .4 °F /3 °C , fo r no m ore than a sp e cifie d perio d o f
technique as it is a process th a t increases stable s h e lf life.
tim e , a fte r processing.
The basic Sous V ide coo kin g p rocesses can be
For the se reasons, then, it is im p o rta n t to un
sep ara te d in to CCRS (cook, chill, reheat, serve) co o k
d e rsta n d th a t sous vide is n o t in te nd ed as a storage
ing: re fe rrin g to where the p ro d u c t is m arked (g rille d
system , nor should it be con sid ered solely as a means
or seared; o p tion al), bagged, th e rm a lly processed (to
o f in d e fin ite ly e xte n d in g th e s h e lf life o f packaged
cook and p a steurize the pro du ct), chille d o r frozen , and
fo o d s tu ffs . Each unique p ro d u c t w ith its own p ro ce ss
then reh ea te d (m arked; again, o p tio n a l) f o r im m e d ia te
ing p a ra m e te rs (tim e and te m p e ra tu re ) w ill have c o rre
service; and CS (cook, serve) cooking: w here a p o rtio n e d
sponding s h e lf life and sto ra g e p a ram e te rs (again, tim e
p ro d u c t is bagged, cooked to o rd e r and served im m e
and te m p e ra tu re ) th a t m ust be resp ected and s tr ic tly
dia te ly. The la tte r is a p re fe rre d m ethod nowadays fo r
adhered to. O th erw ise, th e sous vide process becom es a
many chefs when cooking seafood.
p o te n tia lly dangerous coo kin g and storag e m ethod. For th is reason alone, sous vide is no b e tte r or w orse than
SAFETY As anyone tra in e d in fo o d s e rv ic e s a fe ty knows, ba cte ria are never c o m p le te ly e lim in ated , b u t m ust be ke p t a t an "a ccep ta ble level.” Through e xp e rim e n ta tio n , fo o d s c ie n tis ts have analyzed the g ro w th and death ra te s o f all fo rm s o f ba cte ria sub je cte d to a v a rie ty o f c o n d itio n s over tim e. The re su lts o f th is e x p e rim e n ta tio n are expressed in the
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
any tra d itio n a l coo kin g m ethod, but, if the p ro p e r co n d i tio n s are m et, it is a s a fe r storag e m ethod since th e re is no ris k f o r re co n ta m in a tio n . 1J.M. Farber and K.L. Dodds, eds.. P rincip le s o fM o d ifie d -A tm o s p h e re a nd Sous Vide P ro d u c t Packaging, pages 5,94,106, 111, 119,153, 199,243, and 253 (Lancaster, PA: Techomic, 1995). 2Ibid. 3Ibid.
Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g sea bass fillets, cut into ten lV 2-o z/4 3-g portions
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, cold
2 o z/5 7 g butter
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg sea bass fillets, cut into ten 6 -o z/1 7 0 -g portions
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry vermouth 2 lb /9 0 7 g celeriac, cut into julienne 1 lb /4 5 4 g Red Bliss potatoes, thinly sliced 10'/2 o z/3 1 5 g carrot, cut into julienne IO V 2 o z/3 1 5 g cucumber, cut into julienne 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Gremolata (page 601) 1 ts p /2 g crushed black peppercorns
50 littleneck clams, thoroughly scrubbed 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264) 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL clam juice Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 8 o z/2 2 7 g green pepper, cut into julienne, blanched 10 o z/2 8 4 g minced bacon, rendered crisp and drained
1 . Cut 10 heart shapes out of parchment paper, large
1 tb s p /3 g minced chives
enough to enclose the fish, scallops, and vegetables. Lightly butter both sides of the paper.
2 . Combine the stock and vermouth in a large sauce pan and bring to a simmer (i85°F/85°C). Separately blanch the celeriac, potatoes, and carrots in the
1 . Lightly butter a shallow pan with 1 oz/28 g of the butter. Add the fish (skin side down), clams, wine, stock, and clam juice.
2 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (160° to
stock mixture until tender. Drain the vegetables and
i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
toss with the cucumber.
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
3 . Arrange a bed of about 7 oz/198 g of the vegetables on one half of each paper heart. Top the vegetables with 1 portion of the bass and 1V2 oz/43 g of the scal lops. Top with about 1 tbsp/15 mL of the gremolata and sprinkle with the peppercorns.
4 . Fold the other half of the heart over the fish and veg etables. Crimp the edges of the paper to seal tightly. Refrigerate until needed.
5 . For each serving, place 1 parchment package on a
fish and clams to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 35o°F/i77°C oven.
3 . Poach until the fish is slightly underdone and the clams are barely open, 10 to 12 minutes.
4 . Transfer the fish and clams to a half hotel pan, add a small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic wrap, and hold warm.
5 . Place the pan with the cuisson over medium-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-thirds.
preheated sizzler platter or sheet pan and bake in a
Whisk in the remaining butter to lightly thicken the
425cF/2i8°C oven for 7 minutes. The package should
sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
be puffy and the paper brown. Serve immediately.
steaming and submersion recipes
Bass and Scallops en Papillote
6 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a
For a dramatic presentation, cut the package open in
clean saucepan or bain-marie. Finish the sauce with
front of the diner.
the peppers and bacon.
7 . Serve the fish and clams immediately with the sauce, garnished with the chives, or hold hot for service.
C hapter 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO O KING
553
Makes 10 servings
/. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan or bain-marie, if desired. Finish the sauce with half each of the tomatoes and chives. 8 . Blot the paupiettes dry on paper towels. Serve imme diately with the sauce on a bed of sauteed baby spin
Twenty 3 to 4 -o z /8 5 to 1 1 3 -g skinless trout fillets 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt, plus more as needed
ach or hold hot for service, no more than 10 minutes.
9 . Repeat steps 2 through 8 for the second batch.
3A tsp /1.50 g ground white pepper, plus more as needed NOTE: Adding lemon juice when finishing a sauce w ill add a 10 o z/2 8 4 g Trout and Saffron Mousseline (recipe follows) 1 o z/2 8 g butter 3 medium shallots, minced
nice layer o f complexity to the dish. Poached Sole w ith S a ffro n Mousse: S ubstitute an equal amount o f sole fille t fo r the trout.
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine 10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
Trout and Saffron Mousseline
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
Makes 10 oz/284 g
7 o z/1 9 8 g tomato concasse 2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives 10 o z /2 8 4 g sauteed baby spinach
1 . Season the trout with the salt and pepper. Spread Vi
2 pinches saffron threads, pulverized 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream 1 lb /4 5 4 g trout fille t trim 1 ts p /3 g salt, plus more as needed
oz/14 g of the mousseline in an even layer over the
1 egg white
skin side of the fillets and roll each piece up to make
Pinch freshly ground white pepper
steaming and submersion recipes
Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse
a paupiette, skin side in. Place in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a i2-in/30-cm sautoir and sprinkle the bottom evenly with half of the shallots. Place half
1 . Combine the saffron and cream in a medium sauce pan and heat to a simmer. Remove from the heat and let steep for 30 minutes. Chill well.
of the paupiettes, seam side down, on top. Add half
2 . Place the trout trim and salt in a food processor. Pro
of the wine and half of the fumet to reach no more
cess to a fine paste, scraping down the sides of the
than halfway up the paupiettes.
bowl as needed. Pulse in the egg white until incorpo
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (160° to i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over medium heat. Place a piece of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
rated. Add the saffron-infused cream, salt, and pep per, pulsing the processor on and off until blended.
3 . Test the mousseline by poaching a small amount in
paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300°
simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces
to 325°F/i49° to i63°C oven.
sary before proceeding.
4 . Poach the paupiettes until the trout is opaque and gives under slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes.
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a half hotel pan, add a
4 . Push through a fine-mesh sieve, if desired. 5 . The mousseline is ready to use now, or may be refrig erated for later use.
small amount of cuisson, cover with plastic wrap, and hold warm. 6 . Place the pan with the cuisson over medium-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-thirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add half of the veloute,
NOTE: Garnish w ith 1 tb s p /3 g chopped chives, or other herbs th a t can be folded in a fte r blending. Sole M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount o f sole fo r the tro u t. Omit the saffron.
and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. The sauce should be reduced to a nappe consistency. Adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper.
Salm on M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount o f salmon fo r the trout. Omit the saffron.
ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
555
Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce
1 . Season the trout with the salt and pepper. Spread the mousseline in an even layer over the trout fillets and roll each piece up to make a paupiette. Place them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate until ready to poach.
2.. Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle evenly
Makes 10 servings
with the shallots. Place the parsley stems, chive Twenty 3 to 4 -o z /8 5 to 1 1 3 -g skinless trout fillets
stems, and peppercorns on top. Place the paupiettes,
1 ts p /3 g salt
seam side down, on the bed of shallots. Add the wine
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
and fumet.
1 lb /4 5 4 g Salmon Mousseline (page 555)
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o° to i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
1 o z/2 8 g butter
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the
3 medium shallots, minced
paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300°
5 parsley stems
to 325°F/i49° to i63°C oven.
4 . Poach until the trout flesh is opaque and gives under
5 chive stems ]A ts p /0.50 g coarsely cracked white peppercorns
slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes.
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a half hotel pan, add a
10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264) 10 fl o z/3 00 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
wrap, and hold warm. 6 . Place the pan with the remaining cuisson over medi
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream
um-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by two-
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed (optional)
thirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add the veloute, and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and reduce to a nappe consistency. Add lemon juice, if de sired, and adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper.
7 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan or bain-marie large enough to hold the finished sauce. 8 . Blot the paupiettes dry on paper towels. Serve im mediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
le ft:
A fte r the fille ts are gently flattened between plastic
wrap to ensure even cooking, pipe a cold fillin g down the length of each fille t. Spread the fillin g evenly over the entire surface fo r paupiettes. Fillings are optional, but if used, they should be kept very cold until cooked,
rig h t:
Fillings need to
be completely encased to ensure they w ill be fully retained during cooking and not leak out. The fish is rolled completely around the filling before the paupiettes are transferred to a holding container fo r later use.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Makes 10 servings
Royal Glagage Makes 24 fl 02/720 mL 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL poaching liquid, if available, or Fish Fumet (page 264)
Ten 5 to 6 -o z /1 4 2 to 1 7 0 -g flounder fillets
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
1 ts p /3 g salt
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298)
'/ 2
tsp /1 g ground white pepper
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream
10 o z/2 8 4 g Sole Mousseline (page 555) 1 o z/2 8 g butter 1 o z/2 8 g minced shallots 8 parsley stems, chopped 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
1 . Reduce the poaching liquid by two-thirds. Strain into a bowl.
2 . Have the veloute and hollandaise at the same tem perature (about 170°F/77°C). Add them to the re duced cuisson and fold together.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
3 . Whip the cream to medium peaks.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Royal Glagage (recipe follows)
4 . Fold the whipped cream gently into the veloute-
10 o z /2 8 4 g green seedless grapes, peeled and heated (about 4 per serving)
hollandaise mixture until combined. Keep warm and use as needed.
1 . Season the sole with the salt and pepper. Spread the mousseline in an even layer over the skin side of the fillets and roll each piece up to make paupiettes. Place them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and re
steaming and submersion recipes
Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique
frigerate until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle it evenly with the shallots. Place the parsley on top of the shallots. Place the paupiettes, seam side down, on the bed of shallots. Add the wine and fumet.
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o° to i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the paupiettes to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300° to 325°F/i49° to i63°C oven.
4 . Poach until the sole is opaque and gives under slight pressure, 10 to 12 minutes. (Reserve the cuisson for the gla^age.)
5 . Transfer the paupiettes to a plate and coat with the gla^age. Brown under a salamander or broiler. 6 . Serve immediately, garnished with grapes, or hold hot for service. NOTE: The grapes can be placed on top o f the paupiettes before glazing w ith glagage and browning.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
557
Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce Makes 10 servings
of buttered parchment paper (cartouche) over the fillets to cover. Transfer the entire pan to a 300° to 325°F/i49° to i 63°C oven.
4 . After 6 minutes, add 3 shrimp per portion to the pan. Poach for 4 to 6 minutes more, or until the flesh of the fish and shrimp is opaque and gives un der slight pressure.
Ten 5 to 6 -o z /1 4 2 to 1 7 0 -g flounder fillets
5 . Transfer the sole and shrimp to a half hotel pan, add
1 ts p /3 g salt
a small amount of the cuisson, cover with plastic
V i tsp /1 g ground white pepper
wrap, and hold warm.
8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne, blanched 8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, cut into julienne, blanched 8 o z/2 2 7 g yellow squash, cut into julienne, blanched 8 o z/2 2 7 g zucchini, cut into julienne, blanched 1 o z/2 8 g butter 3 medium shallots, minced 5 parsley stems
6 . Place the pan with the remaining cuisson over medium-high heat, bring to a simmer, and reduce by twothirds. Reduce the heat to medium, add the veloute, and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cream and reduce the sauce to a nappe consistency. Add lemon juice, if desired, and adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper.
7 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan or bain-marie. Mix the chives and
5 chives V* ts p /0 .5 0 g coarsely cracked white peppercorns
parsley into the sauce. 8 . Blot the sole rolls and shrimp dry on paper towels.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL dry white wine
Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
service.
l i b 8 o z /6 8 0 g shrimp (2 1 /2 5 count), peeled and deveined 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294) 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed (optional) 2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
Fillet o f Snapper en Papillote Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped parsley Ten 6-o z/1 7 0 -g red snapper fillets
1 . Place the fillets skin side up on a work surface and season with salt and white pepper. Combine the pep pers, carrots, squash, and zucchini. Place a generous portion of vegetables across each fillet, leaving the
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter 1 ts p /3 g salt V i tsp /1 g ground black pepper
vegetables extending over the edge of the fillets on
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
both sides. Roll or fold the fillets tail to head. Place
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294)
them in a hotel pan, seam side down, and refrigerate
2V i o z/71 g minced shallots
until ready to poach.
2 . Lightly butter a shallow pan and sprinkle it evenly with the shallots. Place the parsley stems, chives, and peppercorns on top of the shallots. Place the
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced green onions 5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced white mushrooms 5 fl o z /1 5 0 mL dry white wine
rolled sole portions, seam side down, on the bed of shallots. Add the wine and fumet.
3 . Bring the liquid to just under a simmer (i6o° to i8o°F/7i° to 82°C) over direct heat. Place a piece
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
1 . Cut 10 heart shapes out of parchment paper, large enough to enclose the fillets. Lightly butter both sides of the paper, using about 2 oz/57 g ° f the butter.
F ille t o f Snapper en Papillote
4 . Foldtheotherhalfoftheheartoverthefish.Crim p
theedgesofthepapertosealtightly.Refrigerateun tilneeded. 5. Foreachserving,place1parchm entpackage onasizzlerplatterorsheetpanandbakeina 425°F/2i8°Covenfor7minutes.Thepackageshould bepuffyandthepaperbrown.Serveimmediately. Foradramaticpresentation,cutthepackageopenin frontofthediner.
steaming and submersion recipes
Heattheremainingbutterinasautepanovermedi um-highheat.Seasonthefilletswiththesaltandpep per,dredgeinflour,andsearbrieflyonthefleshside only,3to5minutes.Removethefishfromthepan. Place1tbsp/15mLofthevelouteononesideofeach parchmentheart. Sprinkle2tsp/6gshallotsonthe veloute. Placethefillets, skinsidedown,ontheshal lots. SprinkleV2 oz/14ggreenonionsontopofeach fillet. ShingleV2 oz/14gslicedmushroomsoverthe greenonions. Drizzlewith1tbsp/15mLwhitewine.
559
IN* New England Shore Dinner
Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes
Makes 10 servings 4 o z /1 1 3 g b u tte r
Makes 10 servings
1 0 o z /2 8 4 g sm all-dice onions
Vi o z /1 4
3 lb 1 2 o z /1 .7 0 kg scrod fille ts , cut into ten 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g portions
g minced garlic
1 t s p /2 g dried thym e
1 t s p /3 g salt
2 bay leaves
’/2
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 ), or as needed
ts p /1 g ground black pepper
4 o z /1 1 3 g b utter, cold 3 tb s p /9 g minced shallot
5 ears corn on th e cob, husked and q uartered 4 o z /1 1 3 g sliced mushrooms, sauteed 5 lobster tails, halved 10 f I o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine 6 0 little n e c k or cherrystone clams, scrubbed 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Fish F um et (page 2 6 4 ) 6 0 mussels, scrubbed and debearded 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL heavy cream 2 lb /9 0 7 g Red Bliss potatoes 4 o z /1 1 3 g to m ato concasse 1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g cod fille ts , cut into ten r /2 - o z /4 3 - g portions
2 t b s p /3 0 mL drained capers 2 t b s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
5 leeks, w hite and light green parts only, split and washed 3 0 pearl onions, blanched and peeled 1 0 o z /2 8 4 g sea scallops, muscle tabs rem oved 1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g zucchini, cut into thick b atonnet 2 tb s p /6 g chopped parsley
1. H eatthebutterinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
theonionsandcook,stirringfrequently,untilthe onionsaretenderandtranslucent, 2to3minutes. Addthegarlicandsweatuntilaromatic, 1minute. 2 .A ddthethyme,bayleaves,andstockandbringtoa simmeroverlowheat. 3.Arrangethenextteningredientsontopoftheonion mixtureinthefollowingsequence: corn,lobster, clams,mussels,potatoes,cod,leeks,pearlonions, scallops,andzucchini. 4 . Coverthepotw ithatight-fittinglidandsteamover mediumheatuntilalloftheingredientsarecooked through,about25minutes. 5.Arrangethefish,seafood,andvegetablesonaplat ter,orservedirectlyfromthepot. Garnishwithpars ley.Strainthebrothandserveseparately,ifdesired.
I . Seasonthescrodwiththesaltandpepper. 2 . Lightlybutterasautoirw ith1oz/28gofthebutterand sprinkleitevenlywiththeshallotsandmushrooms. Placethescrodontop.Addthewineandfumet. 3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim mer(160°to i8o0F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat. Placeapieceof butteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)overthescrod tocover.Transfertheentirepantoa35o°F/i77°C oven. 4 . Poachuntilthescrodisopaqueandgivesunderslight pressure, 10to12minutes. Transferthefishtoahalf hotelpan,addasmallamountofthecuisson,cover withplasticwrap,andholdwarm. 5. Reducethecreambyhalfoverm ediumheat.Atthe sametime,placethepanwiththeremainingcuisson overmedium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreduce bytwo-thirds.Reducetheheatunderthecuissonto medium,addthecream,andsimmerfor1to2minutes. 6. Addtheconcasseandcapersandsimmerlongenough forthesaucetoreachanappeconsistency,3to4min utes.W hiskorswirlintheremainingbutter,addthe lemonjuice,andadjustseasoning. 7. Servethescrodandm ushroomsimmediatelywith thesauceorholdhotforservice.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
steaming and submersion recipes
New England Shore Dinner
561
Pescado Veracruzana M akes 10 servings
1 0 red snapper fille ts (about 6 o z /1 7 0 g each)
5. Poachthefishuntilcookedthrough(i40°F/60°C), 6
to8minutes. 6. Servethefishimmediatelywiththesaucespooned overthetop.Garnisheachservingwithparsley.
1 ts p /3 g salt
Vi ts p /1
g ground black pepper
6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL lime juice SAU C E
Cioppino M akes 10 servings
3 f I o z /9 0 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g minced onion
2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
12 o z /3 4 0 g fin e ly diced onion
3 lb /1 .3 6 kg peeled, seeded, m edium -dice tom ato es
1 bunch green onions, green and w hite portions, thin ly sliced on the bias
1 5 large green olives, p itte d and chopped 12 o z /3 4 0 g sm all-dice green pepper 4
Vi t s p /1 4
g drained capers, rinsed 12 o z /3 4 0 g sm all-dice fennel
5 pickled jalapenos, drained and cut into julienne ltb s p /lO g s a lt 3 bay leaves '/t ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper l
/' 2
ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped m arjoram or oregano
r
/2
ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped thym e
4 ts p /1 2 g minced garlic 4 lb /1 .8 1 kg to m ato concasse 1 q t /9 6 0 mL Fish Fum et (page 2 6 4 ), or as needed 8 f I o z /2 4 0 mL dry w hite wine G A R N IS H
4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped parsley
1 .CutashallowXintheskinofthefilletsw ithabon
ingknife. Seasonthefishwiththesaltandpepper andmarinateitinthelimejuice, refrigerated,forat leastlhourorovernight. 2 .Tom akethesauce,heat2floz/6omLoftheoilin asaucepanovermedium-highheat.Addtheonions andgarlicandsauteuntiltheystarttoturngolden. Addthetomatoes,olives,capers,jalapenos,bay leaves,marjoramororegano,thyme,andstock.Bring thesaucetosimmerandcookuntilthetomatoesare softandtheflavorshaveblended.Adjustseasoning withsaltandpepper,ifnecessary.Reserve. 3. Lightlygreaseashallowpanw iththeremainingoil. Placethesnapperinthepan,skinsidedown.Pour thesauceoverandaroundthefish. 4 . Bringthesaucetojustunderasim mer(i6o°to i8o°F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat.Placeapieceof butteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)overthefishto cover.Transfertheentirepantoa350°F/i77°Coven.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
1 6 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Tom ato Sauce (page 2 9 5 ) 2 bay leaves 1 q t /9 6 0 mL Fish Fum et (page 2 6 4 ) 2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg M anila clams, scrubbed 2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded 1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g shrimp ( 1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined 2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg cod fille t, large dice 12 o z /3 4 0 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed 10 G arlic-Flavored Croutons (recipe follow s) 3/ t o z /2 1 g basil chiffonade
1. H eattheoilinalargesouppotovermediumheat.
Addtheonions,greenonions,peppers,andfennel andseasonwithsaltandpepper. Sauteuntiltheon ionsaretranslucent, 7to8minutes.Addthegarlic andsauteuntilaromatic, 1minutemore. 2 .A ddtheconcasse,wine,tomatosauce,bayleaves, andfumet. Coverthepotandsimmerslowlyfor about20minutes.Addmorefumetifnecessary.Re moveanddiscardthebayleaves.
andscallopsarecookedandtheclamsandmussels areopened,7to8minutes. 4 . Servethecioppinoim mediately.Garnisheachserv ingwithacroutonandsomebasil.
Makes10servings
Garlic-Flavored Croutons
Ten 7 to 8 - o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g boneless chicken supremes
Makes10servings
Salt, as needed 1 0 thin slices French bread, cut on the diagonal
Ground w hite pepper, as needed
5 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
2 o z /5 7 g b u tte r
2 f I o z /6 0 mL olive oil
2 o z /5 7 g minced shallot
Salt, as needed
1 0 f I o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 )
1 .Arrangethebreadslicesonabakingsheet. Rubeach
slicewithgarlicandbrushlightlywithoilonboth sides. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. 2 .Brow nthebreadunderasalamanderorbroiler;turn andbrownonthesecondside.Reserveuntilneeded.
1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4 ) 1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL heavy cream 1 tb s p /3 g chopped tarragon
1 . Seasonthechickenw ithsaltandpepper. 2 . Lightlybutterashallowpanandsprinkleitevenly
withtheshallots. Placethechickenontop(skinside up).Addthewineandstock. 3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim mer(160°to i8o°F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat. Placeapiece ofbutteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)over thechickentocover.Transfertheentirepantoa 350°F/i77°Coven. 4 . Poachthechickenuntilcookedthrough (i65°F/74°C), 12to14minutes. 5. Transferthechickentoahalfhotelpan,addasm all amountofthecuisson,coverwithplasticwrap,and holdwarm. 6. Placethepanwiththeremainingcuissonovermedi um-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreducebytwothirds. Reducetheheattomedium,addtheveloute, andsimmerfor1to2minutes. Stirinthecreamand reducetoanappeconsistency.Adjustseasoningwith saltandwhitepepper. 7. Strainthesaucethroughafine-m eshsieveintoa cleansaucepanorbain-marielargeenoughtohold thefinishedsauce. Stirthetarragonintothesauce. 8. Blotthechickendryonpapertowels. Serveimmedi atelywiththesauceorholdhotforservice.
ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
steaming and submersion recipes
Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce
3.A ddtheseafoodandsimmeruntilthecod,shrimp,
563
Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits M akes 10 servings
Ten 7 to 8 - o z /1 9 8 to 2 2 7 -g boneless, skinless chicken supremes Salt, as needed Ground w hite pepper, as needed 4 o z /8 5 g b u tte r 3 medium shallots, minced 1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g sliced w hite mushrooms 1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL dry w hite wine 1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 ), or as needed 1 0 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Chicken Veloute (page 2 9 4 ) 3 0 baby carrots, peeled and blanched 3 0 w hite turnip batonnet, blanched 3 0 rutabaga batonnet, blanched 1 5 Brussels sprouts, halved and blanched 2 0 Biscuit Dumplings (page 8 3 5 ) 4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped parsley 4 tb s p /1 2 g chopped dill
1. Seasonthechickenw iththesaltandpepper. 2 . Lightlybutterashallowpanw ithhalfofthebutter
andsprinkleevenlywiththeshallotsand8oz/227 gofthemushrooms. Placethechickenontop (skinsideup).Addthewineandstock. 3. Bringtheliquidtojustunderasim mer(160°to i8o°F/7i°to82°C)overdirectheat. Placeapiece ofbutteredparchmentpaper(cartouche)over thechickentocover.Transfertheentirepantoa 350°F/i77°Coven. 4 . Poachthechickenuntilcookedthrough (i65°F/74°C), 12to14minutes. 5. Transferthechickentoahalfhotelpan,adda smallamountofthecuisson,coverwithplastic wrap,andholdwarm. 6. Placethepanwiththeremainingcuissonover medium-highheat,bringtoasimmer,andreduce bytwo-thirds. Reducetheheattomedium,addthe veloute,andreducetoanappeconsistency.Adjust seasoningwithsaltandwhitepepper. M EAT S, POULTRY. FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
7. Strainthesaucethroughafine-m eshsieveintoa
cleansaucepanorbain-marie. Reservewarm. 8. Heat1oz/28goftheremainingbutterinasaute panovermedium-highheat.Addtheremaining mushroomsandsauteuntiltender. Seasonwith saltandpepper.Reservewarm. 9. H eattheremainingbutterinanothersautepan andreheatthecarrots,turnips, rutabagas,and Brusselssprouts.Addalittlestock,ifnecessary. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. 10 .Servethechickenim mediatelywiththesauce, vegetables, andbiscuits. Garnishwithapinchof choppedparsleyanddill.
M akes 8 servings
7.Arrangethechicken(abreastportionandeithera
drumstickorthigh)ineachbowlwithvegetables, ladlebrothintothebowl,andfinishwiththechives. Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
2 broiler chickens (about 3 lb /1 .3 6 kg each), w ith giblets except livers 3'/2 q t/3 .3 6 L Chicken S to ck (page 2 6 3 ) 1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 ) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 2 4 1 ) 8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice potatoes 8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrots 8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice celeriac 8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice parsnips 8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice leeks, w hite and light green portions 1 t b s p /1 0 g salt 1 t s p /2 g ground black pepper 1 o z /2 8 g minced chives
1 . Rem ovethebackbonesfromthechickensandreserve.
Cutthebirdsintoquarters,thenhalvethebreasts. 2 . Bringthestocktoasim mer(i8o°toi85°F/82°to 85°C)inalargepot. Placethechickens,backbones, necks, hearts,andgizzardsinanotherpotandadd enoughsimmeringstocktocoverbyi to1V2in/3to 4cm.Returnthestocktoasimmeroverlowheat. Skimcarefullythroughoutthecookingtime. 3.A ddthebouquetgarniandsachet. Simmerforap proximately45minutes.Transferthechickenlegs andbreaststoacleanpot. Strainthebrothoverthe chickenanddiscardthebouquetgarni, sachet,back bones,necks, heart,andgizzards. Returnthebroth toasimmerandcookoverlowheatfor30minutes more. 4 .A ddthevegetablestothebrothinastaggeredse quencecookingeachforjustaminuteortwobefore addingthenext: potatoes, carrots, celeriac,parsnips, andtheleekslast. 5. Continuetosim mer,skimmingasnecessary,until thechickenisfork-tenderandallofthevegetables aretender,20to25minutes. 6. Removethechickenandseparatethedrumsticks fromthethighs. Cutthebreasthalvesinhalfagain, onabias. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. ch a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKIN G
steaming and submersion recipes
Poule au Pot (Chicken with Vegetables)
565
Udon Noodle Pot Makes10servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g dry udon noodles
Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables Makes12to14servings
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 10 lb /4 .5 4 kg corned b ee f brisket, trim m ed 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L Ichi Ban Dashi (page 2 6 6 } 2 0 little n e c k clams, scrubbed
3 q t/2 .8 8 L cold W h ite B eef Stock (page 2 6 3 ) or w ater, or as needed
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into b ite-size pieces
2 lb /9 0 7 g green cabbage, cut into 1 2 to 1 4 wedges 1 4 new potatoes, halved
2 0 shrimp ( 3 1 /3 6 count), peeled, deveined, blanched 3 0 baby carrots, peeled 2 lb 3 o z /9 9 2 g shiitake mushrooms, stem m ed 1 4 baby turnips, peeled 1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g baby bok choy, halved and cored, blanched
1 lb /4 5 4 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1 lb /4 5 4 g spinach, chiffonade
S alt, as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g carrots, cut into coins, blanched
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 o z /2 2 7 g snow peas, strings rem oved, blanched 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL soy sauce 2 tb s p /3 0 mL mirin 2 green onions, thin ly sliced on the bias
1. Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboil. Cookthe
noodlesuntiljusttender,6to8minutes. Drainthe noodlesandrinseundercoldwater. Drainagain, tosswiththeoil, andreserve. 2 . Bringthedashitoasim merinalargepot. 3. Placetheclam s,chicken,shrimp,andshiitakesin aseparatepotandladlethesimmeringdashiover thetop.Returntoasimmerandpoachuntilthe clamsovermediumheatareopenandthechickenis cookedthrough(i65°F/74°C). 4 . Servetheclam s,chicken,shrimp,andshiitakesin abowlonabedofthenoodleswiththebokchoy, spinach,carrots,andsnowpeas. Ladlethedashiover thetopandserveimmediately.Garnishwiththesoy sauce,mirin,andgreenonions.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
1 . Splitthebrisketalongthenaturalseaminto2pieces. 2 .Placethem eatinadeeppotandaddenoughstock
orwatertocoverthemeat. Bringtoasimmer(180° toi85°F/82°to85°C), skimmingthesurfaceasnec essary.Reducetheheattoestablishaslowsimmer, cover, andcontinuesimmeringuntilthemeatis nearlyforktender, about2V2hours. 3.A ddthevegetablestothecornedbeefandcontinue tosimmeruntiltheyaretenderandflavorfulandthe cornedbeefisfork-tender,35to45minutes. Season withsaltandpepperasneededthroughoutthecook ingtime. 4 . Rem ovethecornedbeeffromthecookingliquidand carveintoslices. Serveimmediatelywiththeveg etablesorholdhotforservice.
J.Addthecinnamon,staranise,andclovestothe brothandcontinuetosimmeruntiltheirflavoris apparent,about30minutes. Strainthebrothand seasonwithsaltandpepper. Reserve. 6. Removethebeefshoulderfromthewater,sliceit intothinpieces, andreserve. 7. Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboil.Addthe noodlesandcookuntiljusttender. Serveimmedi atelyorrinseuntilcool,drainwell,andreheatat service. 8. Bringthebrothtoaboil. Foreachportion,place noodlesinabowl.Placesomebeansproutsandon ionslicesoverthenoodles, followedbyafewslices ofthebeefshoulder. Lay2or3slicesoftherawbeef overthecookedshoulder.Ladletheboilingbroth intothebowl.Thebrothshouldcoverthemeatby1 in/3cm9 . Serveim mediately,garnishedwiththegreenonions, herbs,andchiles. Servealimewedgeandchilisauce ontheside.
Makes10servings 1 0 lb /4 .5 4 kg b ee f m arrow bones 2 lb /9 0 7 g b e e f shoulder clod 3 g a l/1 1 .5 2 L w a te r 1 0 o z /2 8 4 g ginger, cut in h alf lengthwise, dry roasted 1 0 medium shallots, peeled, dry roasted 8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL fish sauce 7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar 6 cinnamon sticks 1 2 s ta r anise pods, lightly toasted 6 cloves, lightly toasted Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1 lb /4 5 4 g rice noodles, Vs in /3 mm wide 6 o z /1 7 0 g bean sprouts 1 medium onion, sliced paper thin
steaming and submersion recipes
Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo)
8 o z /2 2 7 g b ee f strip loin, slightly fro zen , sliced paper thin 4 green onions, sliced thin 3 0 Thai basil leaves 3 0 cilantro leaves 3 0 m int leaves 3 0 rau ram leaves 5 Thai chiles, sliced paper thin 1 0 lime wedges 5 f l o z /1 5 0 mL V ie tn a m es e chili sauce
1. Blanchthebonesandbeefshoulder. Drain. 2 . Inalargepot,coverthebonesandshoulderw iththe
water.Addtheginger,shallots,fishsauce,andsugar. Bringtoaboil. 3. Sim meruntiltheshoulderistender,about1V2hours, skimmingthesurfacethroughoutthecookingtime, asneeded. 4 . Rem ovetheshoulderfromtheliquidandsubmerge itinabowlofcoolwaterfor15minutes.
c h a p te r 19 » S T E A M I N G A N D S U B M E R S I O N CO OKING
569
Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes
Seafood Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel
(G aisburger Marsch)
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264) 1 ts p /1 .5 0 g saffron threads, crushed
4 lb/1.81 kg beef shank meat, cut into V i-in /l-c m cubes
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
1 gal 2 q t/5 .7 6 L White Beef Stock (page 263)
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Pernod
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg medium-dice onion
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
2 bay leaves
1 lb /4 5 4 g fennel, cut into julienne
1 clove
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg assorted seafood (see Note)
1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice potatoes
1 lb/454 g tomato concasse
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice leeks, white and light green portions
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley or fennel fronds
3 o z/8 5 g butter 2 lb /9 0 7 g Spatzle (page 834), cooked in beef broth or salted water, drained, and cooled 1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
1 . Combine the fumet, saffron, sachet, Pernod, wine, and fennel in a large sautoir. Simmer at 180° to i85°F/82° to 85°C until the fennel is barely tender and the broth is well flavored, about 12 minutes. Remove the sachet. Season with salt and pepper. Use
1 . Blanch the beef. Drain. 2 . Combine the beef with the stock, 12 oz/340 g of the onions, the bay leaves, and clove in a large pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the beef is tender. Skim as necessary and season with salt and pepper as needed throughout the cooking time.
3 . After 45 minutes to 1 hour, remove enough of the beef broth to cover the potatoes in a medium saucepan. Cook the potatoes until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool slightly. Add the leeks to the broth and parcook for 3 min utes; remove and cool.
4 . Meanwhile, saute the remaining onions in the butter in a medium-large saute pan until golden brown.
5 . Add the potatoes and spatzle and heat through. Add the leeks and parsley. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately with beef or hold hot for service.
570
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
immediately or cool rapidly and store for later use.
2.. At the time of service, bring the broth and fennel to a bare simmer. Add the seafood and poach until it is just cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the toma toes and continue to cook until heated through.
3 . Serve immediately with the broth, or hold hot for service. Garnish with parsley. NOTE: A variety o f seafood may be used, including shrimp, monkfish, squid, shark, scallops, and lobster.
praising Itewing Braises and stews have a robust, hearty flavor and are often considered fall and winter meals. They are often thought of as peasant dishes because they frequently call for less tender (and less expensive) main ingredients than other techniques. However, by replacing traditional ingredients with poultry, fish, or shellfish, braises and stews can be faster to prepare, lighter in flavor and color, and appropriate for contemporary menus.
To
B R A I S E M E A T , F I R S T S E A R IT IN H O T F A T T O T H E D E S I R E D C O L O R , T H E N S I M M E R IT IN A C O V E R E D
V E S S E L IN S T O C K O R A N O T H E R C O O K I N G LI Q. UI D. T H E A M O U N T O F LI Q. UI D U S E D C R U C I A L TO T H E S U C C E S S O F T H E F I N I S H E D D I S H .
Be S U R E
IN T H E B R A I S E IS
T O H A V E E N O U G H LI Q. UI D TO K E E P T H E F O O D
M O I S T E N E D T H R O U G H O U T T H E C O O K I N G T I M E A N D T O P R O D U C E A N A D E Q U A T E A M O U N T O F S A U C E TO S E R V E W I T H T H E F I N I S H E D I T E M . T Y P I C A L L Y , O N E ’ T H I R D TO O N E ’ H A L F O F T H E M A I N I T E M S H O U L D B E S U B M E R G E D IN T H E C O O K I N G M E D I U M .
braises One o f the b e n e fits o f b ra isin g is th a t tou gh cuts o f m eat becom e te n d e r as th e m o ist heat g e n tly p e n e tra te s th e m eat and causes th e connective tissue s to so fte n . A n o th e r b e n e fit is th a t fla v o r is released in to th e cooking liquid to becom e th e accom panying sauce; thus v irtu a lly all th e fla v o r is retained. The sauce re s u ltin g fro m a braise also has exceptional body, as th e slow cooking breaks down th e tou gh connective tissu e s and causes them to tra n s fo rm in to gelatin. Tender foo ds, even de lica te fis h and she llfish , can also be braised. To p ro p e rly braise these kinds o f foo ds, use less cooking liquid and cook th e fo o d a t a low er te m p e ra tu re fo r a s h o rte r perio d o f tim e. The less te n d e r cuts o f m eat to be braised come fro m m ore m ature and m ore exercised anim als. These cuts are m ore deeply fla v o re d than th e te n d e r fo o d s used fo r sauteing and steam ing. Braised fo o d s are o fte n le ft in a single large piece th a t can be sliced or carved. It's a good idea to tru s s o r tie the m eat in o rd e r to m aintain th e p ro p e r shape. Food may also be w rapped in le ttu c e leaves or o th e r coverings to help m aintain the shape and pre ven t th e fo o d fro m breaking a p a rt du rin g cooking. The cooking liquids usually co n sist o f rich sto c k o r a com b in ation o f a s to c k and a sauce (such as espagnole, dem i-glace, o r veloute) suited to th e main item 's flavor. B roths, essences, or veg etab le ju ices may also be used. W ine is o fte n used to deglaze th e pan b e fo re the braising liquid is added. A ro m a tic vegetables, o r herbs, are so m e tim es added f o r m ore flavo r. If th e y are to be stra in e d o u t o f the sauce o r pureed and added back to th e sauce, u n ifo rm cuts are n o t so im p o rta n t. However, when a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts w ill be used as a garnish in th e fin ish e d dish, th e y should be peeled, cu t to a u n ifo rm size and shape, and added to the dish in the pro pe r sequence, so th a t all com ponents fin is h cooking a t th e same tim e. Tom ato pro du cts may be included to give th e fin is h e d dish a d d itio n a l fla v o r and color i f m aking a brown braise. Tom ato concasse, to m a to puree, o r to m a to paste can all be used. Prepare a sachet d'epices or bouq ue t garni includ in g spices, herbs, and o th e r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts as desired o r re q u ire d by th e recipe. A w hole g a rlic head can be ro a ste d w ith a little o il and added to give a deeper, s w e e te r fla v o r to th e dish. To th icke n th e braising liquid f o r a sauce, use roux, ro u x-th icke n e d sauces, reductions, beurre manie, or, as a la st re s o rt, a pure starch slurry. M ire p o ix may also be pureed and added back to th e sauce to th icke n it. Choose a heavy-gauge braising pan or rondeau w ith a lid o f a size and shape th a t best f it s the m eat or p o u ltry f o r slow, even cooking. Use a kitche n fo rk to te s t doneness and a spoon to rem ove the fo o d fro m th e sauce. Also have a carving k n ife and o th e r eq uipm ent to fin is h the sauce, such as a s tra in e r a n d /o r im m ersion blender.
572
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
braises
basic formula Braising (4 entree portions) 32 to 40 oz/850 g to 1.13 kg meat, poultry, or fish
2 q t/1 .9 2 L cooking liquid (brown stock, brown sauce, and/or other
(sachet d’epices or bouquet
fla vo rfu l liquids, such as wine)
garni, fo r example)
4 oz/113 g prepared aromatics (mirepoix and/or other vegetables)
A dditional finishing or garnishing
Salt and other seasonings
ingredients as appropriate
method at-a-glance expert tips
Sear the main item on all sides in hot fat. Remove the main item.
To thicken the sauce,
0
any one o f the follow ing may be used, de
Add the m irepoix and sweat it.
pending on your desired results. Flour may be added either by dusting the main
Add the roux, if it is being used.
a sauce, cook it over medium heat to a good consistency.
item or by adding it directly to the pan w ith the aromatic vegetables. To reduce
FLO U R (R O U X ) / STARCH S L U R R Y / PU REED A R O M A T IC V EG ETAB LES / R E D U C TIO N / BEURRE M A N IE
Return the main item to the bed of m irepoix in the pot.
Additional ingredients
6 . Add the liquid.
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added
Bring it to a simmer over direct heat.
later on so th a t they retain th e ir individual flavor and/or texture: R O ASTED G A R LIC / SA C H E T D 'E PIC E S OR B O U Q U ET G A R NI / A D D IT IO N A L
Cover; finish the braise in the oven until it is fo rk tender.
VEG ETAB LES
The sauce fo r the braise
9 . Add the sachet d’epices or
may be served unstrained, containing
ingredients th a t are cooked along w ith the main item, such as potatoes and
bouquet garni and garnishes at the appropriate times.
other vegetables. In other instances, the sauce is strained before it is served and any additional finishing or garnishing ingredients are added ju s t before serving.
10 . Remove the main item and
keep it warm. Prepare the sauce: strain, reduce, thicken, and garnish it as desired. Slice or carve the main item and serve it w ith a sauce and an appropriate garnish.
A
ch a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
573
1. trim fabricated cuts of meat of all excess f a t and g ris tle . M e a t o r p o u ltry should be sea soned w ith s a lt and fre s h ly ground pepper, spice blends, o r m arinades b e fo re searing. P ro p e rly fa b ric a te d m eat im proves th e q u a lity and fla v o r o f th e dish. B raising c o n ce n tra te s th e n a tural f la vors o f th e main item , co o kin g liquid, and added in g re d i ents, b u t it is s till im p o rta n t to season th e fo o d b e fo re be ginn ing to cook. Long sim m e ring tim e s reduce th e volum e o f liquid and make re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts o f seasoning m ore intense. Taste and ad ju st seasoning th ro u g h o u t the e n tire coo kin g process.
m eth o d in d etail
2. sear the meat to develop fla v o r and a rich brow n color. H eat th e pan and oil and sear th e seasoned main ite m on all sides to a deep brown. Cook th e main ite m on high heat, tu rn in g it as o fte n as necessary, ju s t u n til each side is w e ll colored. For a pa le r dish, som etim es re fe rre d to as a w h ite braise, som e fo o d s are cooked only u n til th e ir e x te rio r seizes, w ith o u t brow ning. A fte r s ea r ing, th e main ite m should be rem oved, the heat lowered, and the m ire p o ix should be cooked to th e desired color.
574
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
braises
3. after browning the mirepoix, cook th e to m a to pa ste u n til it tu rn s a deep ru s t c o lo r and sm ells sw eet. Onions are ty p ic a lly added to th e pan f ir s t and allow ed to cook to th e a p p ro p ria te color: te n d e r and tra n s lu c e n t f o r a lig h t-c o lo re d braise, o r deep golden fo r a brow n braise. A llo w enough tim e to cook th e se in g re d i ents p ro p e rly. A dd o th e r v eg etab le s, herbs, and spices to th e pan in sequence. A cid ic in g re d ie n ts such as to m a to e s o r w ine are o fte n added to a braise. In a d d itio n to deglazing th e pan and relea sing th e fon d, th e liq u id a n d /o r acid helps to s o fte n th e tou gh tissu e s o f som e braised fo o d s and adds a d e s ir able fla v o r and c o lo r to th e fin is h e d dish.
4. add enough Stock to th e pingage to cover th e ite m by o n e -th ird to on e-h alf. B ring to a sim m er. Add th e main ite m back to th e sim m e rin g liquid, along w ith any a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts. Cover th e p o t and braise in th e oven. The am o un t o f liq u id should be ad ap te d to s u it the c h a ra c te ris tic s o f th e m ain item . B rin g th e liquid ju s t up to a sim m e r (n o t a tru e boil), s tirrin g w ell, e sp e cia lly if flo u r was added to th e a ro m a tic vegetables. Add the a ro m a tics (such as ro a ste d ga rlic, a sachet o r bouquet, a d d itio n a l veg etab le s, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts) a t th e a p p ro p ria te tim e . Add som e a ro m a tics ea rly in the cooking process to in fu se th e dish w ith th e flavo r. O th ers may be added la te r in th e process so th e y re ta in th e ir fla v o r or te x tu re .
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
575
5. braise until the main item is fu lly cooked and tender. E stab lish a slow sim m er over d i re c t heat, cover th e po t, and fin is h coo kin g the braise in a m e d iu m -lo w oven (a p p ro xim a te ly 2 7 5 ° to 3 2 5 °F /1 3 5 ° to 163°C ) o r over low d ire c t heat. S tir, skim , and ad ju st the seasoning and am ount o f liq u id th ro u g h o u t th e cooking tim e . Baste o r tu rn th e fo o d s fro m tim e to tim e to keep all surface s evenly m oiste ne d w ith the cooking liquid. This helps to ensure th a t the fo o d cooks evenly. Remove th e lid du rin g th e fin a l p a rt o f th e cooking tim e . This w ill cause th e coo kin g liquid to reduce ade q u a te ly so th a t th e sauce w ill have a good con sisten cy and flavo r. Also, if th e main ite m is tu rn e d fre q u e n tly a fte r the lid has been rem oved and is thus exposed to h o t air, a glaze w ill fo rm on th e surface, p ro vid in g a glossy sheen and good fla vo r. F o rk -te n d e r braised fo o d s slide easily fro m a kitch e n fo rk or may be cut w ith the side o f a fo rk . Even tho ugh ca rryo ve r coo kin g is n o t as big a fa c to r f o r the se dishes as it is f o r roa sts, g rills , and sautes, it is s till easier to carve fo o d s a fte r the y are allow ed to re s t f o r several m inutes. T ransfe r th e m ain ite m to a pan and keep it w arm w h ile fin is h in g th e sauce. As th e braised fo o d rests, th e sauce can be fin ish e d in a num ber o f ways. Remove and discard the sachet d’epices o r b o uq ue t garni. R eturn the bra isin g liquid to a sim m er and degrease the sauce by skim m ing away any surface fa t. Once it reaches th e c o rre c t consistency, a d ju st seasoning as needed. M any braises include veg etables, p o ta to e s, or o th e r com ponents th a t are cooked along w ith th e main item . Serve the se sauces unstrained. In o th e r instances, th e sauce is stra in e d b e fo re it is served. The braise may be cooled ra p id ly and sto re d in the re fr ig e ra to r f o r la te r use, i f desired. Add any fin a l fin is h in g or g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts ju s t b e fo re serving the braise. W ell made braises have an intense fla vo r, as a re s u lt o f th e long, g e n tle cooking, and a s o ft, a lm o st m e ltin g te x ture. The main item 's n a tural juices, along w ith th e cooking liquid, becom e con ce n tra te d , p ro vid in g bo th a deep fla v o r and a fu ll-b o d ie d sauce. Braised fo o d s have a deep color depending on th e ty p e o f fo o d . They should re ta in th e ir n a tural shape, although a s ig n ific a n t am ount o f volum e is lo s t du rin g cooking. When done, braised fo o d s are ex tre m e ly tender. They should not, however, be dry o r fa ll in to shreds. This w ould in d ica te th a t the fo o d has been overcooked or cooked to o ra p id ly a t a high heat.
576
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
tew s the
s h a re
m a n y
FINISHED
sim ilarities w ith b r a is e s
dish
.Th
e y
,
fr o m
the
cuts of m eat ch o sen
to th e t e x t u r e
D I F F E R F R O M B R A I S E S IN T H A T T H E F O O D S A R E C U T I NT O B I T E ' S I Z E P I E C E S
stews
S
OF
A N D A R E C O O K E D IN M O R E LIQ. UI D. S T E W S A R E O F T E N T H O U G H T O F A S O N E ’ D I S H M E A L S , P R O D U C I N G A T E N D E R A N D H I G H L Y F L A V O R E D DI SH I N C L U D I N G NO T O N L Y MEAT, P O U L T R Y , OR S E A F O O D , B U T A L S O A V A R I E T Y O F V E G E T A B L E S IN A R E D O L E N T A R O M A T I C S A U C E .
The sauce its e lf ta ke s on a deeper fla v o r and body during ste w in g as fla v o rs m ig rate fro m the o th e r ingre die nts. It is also possible to fin is h a ste w w ith cream, herbs, o r a liaison o f eggs and cream. Stew s are based on th e same cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , o r fis h as a braise. These cuts o fte n req uire extended m o is t-h e a t cooking in o rd e r to becom e te n d e r and palatable. Trim the fo o d o f e x te rio r and in te rio r fa t, g ris tle , and sinew. D ivide la rge r cuts along seam lines to make it easier to cu t across th e grain f o r a m ore te n d e r fin is h e d stew. The size o f th e cut w ill vary acco rding to th e s ty le o f stew, b u t ty p ic a lly the y are 1 in /2 .5 cm cubes. If the y are cu t to o sm all, to o much o f th e surface area w ill be exposed and th e m eat w ill dry out. Season fo o d s fo r ste w in g b e fo re cooking, using salt, pepper, m arinades, o r d ry rubs to give th e fin is h e d dish a com plex and dynam ic fla vo r. S e le ct th e coo kin g liquid according to th e fo o d being stew ed or th e recipe's recom m endation. F la vo rfu l sto c k s o r com binations o f s to cks and sauces, v eg etab le o r f r u it ju ices, o r w a te r m ay be used. S tew s o fte n include vegetables, bo th as an a ro m a tic com ponent and as an in te g ra l com p on ent o f th e dish. Rinse, peel, and cu t vegetables in to un ifo rm shapes so th a t th e y w ill cook p ro pe rly. Keep th e veg etab le s separated so th a t th e y can be added to the ste w in th e p ro p e r sequence. Choose a heavy-gauge braising pan or rondeau w ith a lid f o r slow, even cooking. Have a ladle o r skim m e r available to skim th e ste w as it cooks. To te s t f o r doneness, use a tab le fo rk to cut a piece, or b ite in to a sm all po rtio n . Some stew s call fo r the main m eat o r p o u ltry to be du sted w ith flo u r and then cooked in h o t oil ju s t u n til i t s ta rts to s tiffe n , w ith no brow ning. O th e r stew s call f o r th e main item to be cooked to a deep brown. Once th e m eat, p o u ltry , or fis h is p ro p e rly colored, rem ove it fro m th e pan and keep it w arm w hile sw eating, sm othe rin g, o r bro w n ing th e a ro m atic vegetables, if required. W hite stew s such as blanquettes do not call fo r the main ite m to be seared b e fore the cooking liquid is added. Instead, a seasoned cooking liquid is added d ire c tly to the uncooked meat. O therw ise, the stew ing liquid is added to the pan w ith th e arom atics and the main item is return ed to the stew. M eats, p o u ltry, and fis h should be trim m e d and seasoned. It m ay be a p p ro p ria te to d u st the se ite m s w ith flo u r. Peel and cu t fr u its and veg etab le s as necessary. Beans and grains may req uire soaking or parcooking.
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G
577
basic formula Stewing (1 entree portion) 1 portion (8 to 10 oz/227 to 284 g) meat, poultry, or fish
1 oz/28 g prepared aromatics (mirepoix and/or other vegetables)
Additional flavoring or garnishing ingredients (see individual recipes)
Salt and other seasonings (sachet d'epices or bouquet garni, for example)
8 to 10 fl oz/240 to 300 mL cooking liquid (stock, sauce, and/or other flavorful liquids such as wine)
m eth o d at-a-glan ce
expert tips Q
1. Sear or blanch the main item. 2.
Remove the main item from the pot; drain the blanching liquid, if used.
3. Brown or sweat the
To thicken the stew,
any one of the following may be used, de
pending on your desired results. Flour may be added either by dusting the main item or by adding it directly to the pan with the aromatic vegetables. To reduce the sauce, cook it over medium heat to a good consistency.
mirepoix. FLO U R (R O U X ) / STARCH S L U R R Y / PUREED A R O M A T IC V EG ETAB LES /
4 . Return the main item to the
R E D U C TIO N / BEURRE M A N IE
bed o f mirepoix in the pot. 5. Add the liquid.
6 . Bring the liquid to a simmer over direct heat. 7. Cover the pot; finish the
stew in the oven until it is tender to the bite. 8. Add the sachet d'epices or bouquet garni and garnishes at the appropriate times.
Additional ingredients may be added to develop more flavor. Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Others may be added later on so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture. SA C H ET D ’EPIC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R N I / G ARLIC
FOP a healthier option:
Use pureed vegetables (especially those
high in starch) to thicken the stew in place of roux or a slurry.
9. Reduce the sauce, if
necessary. (Remove the main item firs t.) 10. Garnish the stew as
appropriate, and serve.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
stews
1. heat the pan and o il and s e a rth e seasoned m ain ite m on all sides to th e de sire d color, o r com bine the main ite m w ith th e co o kin g liquid. B rin g th e coo kin g liquid to a sim m e r s e p a ra te ly b e fo re po uring it over th e p re pared m eat. This w ay th e co o kin g liquid can be seasoned and th e overall coo kin g tim e sho rte ne d. It also im proves the te x tu re o f th e dish. S earing th e m ain ite m assists in de veloping c o lo r and fla vo r. In o rd e r to develop a good color, th e main ite m should n o t be added to th e p o t in q u a n titie s so large th a t th e pieces are to u c h in g one another. If th e y to u c h , the pan's te m p e ra tu re w ill be low ered s ig n ific a n tly , hind erin g p ro p e r coloring. Instead, sear th e ite m in batches, and rem ove each batch when it has developed good color. The am o un t o f liq u id re q u ire d v a rie s fro m one c u t o f m ea t o r p o u ltry to another. D e lica te or te n d e r foo ds, such as fis h o r sh e llfish , may re q u ire ve ry litt le added m o istu re to ste w succe ssfully. Tougher cu ts may need p ro p o rtio n a te ly m ore liquid f o r a lo ng er co o kin g tim e as w e ll as to s o fte n to u g h t is sues. C onsult s p e c ific recipe s f o r guidance.
2. cover the meat or main item co m p le te ly in th e cooking liquid. S kim m ing im proves the flavo r, color, and te x tu re o f th e fin is h e d dish by rem oving im p u ritie s and pa rticle s. Keep a sm all bowl nearby to hold the skim m ed scum. B ring th e liq u id to a sim m e r over low heat, cover the pot, and fin is h th e s te w in a m edium oven or over low d ire c t heat, uncovered. S tir, skim , and a d ju s t th e am ount o f liq u id and seasoning th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e . Add any a d d itio n a l a ro m a tics and ve g e ta b le garnish in the p ro p e r sequence th ro u g h o u t th e coo kin g tim e f o r a rich com plex fla v o r and p e rfe c t te x tu re . In som e dishes, some o r all o f th e garnish is pre pa red s e p a ra te ly to m aintain color. Add parcooked, blanched, or qu ick-co o kin g in gre d ie n ts as close to service tim e as reasonable. Be sure to ta s te th e coo kin g liq u id b e fo re d e cid ing w h a t aro m atics, if any, are needed. If th e s to c k is ve ry fla v o rfu l already, a b o uq ue t g a rni o r sach et may n o t be necessary.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI NG
579
3. before removing the meat
or main
ite m to fin is h th e sauce, check a fe w pieces to be sure th a t th e y are fu lly cooked and ten der. P ro p e rly cooked stew ed fo o d s should be easy to cu t w ith th e side o f a ta b le fo rk . (Texture co n tra s t, when desired, may be pro vid ed by a fin a l garnish o r side dish.) D iscard th e sach et d'epices or bo uq ue t garni. S tew s m ay be prepa red to th is po in t, then cooled and s to re d f o r la te r service. C ooling the s te w makes it easy to l i f t any f a t fro m th e surface. Finish the stew ing liquid in to a sauce. F irst, remove the solid ingredients w ith a s lo tte d spoon or skimmer. M oisten them w ith a little o f the cooking liquid, cover, and keep warm. Strain the sauce if necessary and thicken by reducing it over d ire c t heat. Add any a d ditiona l thickeners, such as a prepared roux or a starch slurry, and continue to cook, skim m ing as nec essary, u n til the sauce has good fla v o r and consistency. R eturn th e solid in g re d ie n ts to th e sauce and re tu rn th e ste w to a sim m er. M any stew s include a d d itio n a l com ponents, such as veg etab le s, m ushroom s, p o ta to e s, or dum plings. When th e se in g re d ie n ts are cooked along w ith th e m ain in g re d ie n t, th e ir own fla v o rs are im proved as w ell as th e fla v o r o f th e e n tire stew.
method in detail 4. make the final adjustments
to
th e stew 's fla v o r and consistency. The fin is h e d stew should have a v e lv e ty sauce, and each in g re d ie n t is fu lly cooked b u t s till re ta in s its shape. Add heavy cream o r te m p e r a lia i son (see page 2 4 9 ) in to th e ste w as a fin is h in g and e n rich ing s tep . A d ju s t th e co n siste n cy by a d d itio n a l sim m e ring if necessary. Season w ith sa lt, pepper, lem on ju ice, o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts. Add a d d itio n a l garnish in g re d ie n ts to th e stew e ith e r in batches o r by in d ivid u a l servings. Evaluate th e q u a lity o f th e stew. A w ell-m a de ste w has a rich fla v o r and a s o ft, a lm o st m e ltin g te x tu re . The natural ju ic e s o f th e in g re d ie n ts, along w ith th e cooking liquid, be come co n ce n tra te d and p ro vid e bo th good fla v o r and a fu llbodied sauce. The m ajor com p on ents in a ste w re ta in th e ir na tural shape, alth ou gh a ce rta in am ount o f volum e may be lo s t du rin g cooking. W hen done, a ste w is e x tre m e ly tender, a lm o st to th e p o in t w here it can be cu t w ith a fo rk b u t not to w here it fa lls in to shreds. This w ould in d ica te th a t the fo o d has been overcooked. S tew s o fte n ta s te b e tte r a day or tw o a fte r p re p a ra tio n . R eheating can ta ke place on low d ire c t heat o r in th e oven o r m icrow ave.
580
ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Makes 10 servings
7 . Transfer the oxtails and vegetables to a hotel pan or other holding container and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the
10 lb /4.54 kg oxtails, cut into 2-in /5-cm cross sections
sauce. 8 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor
2 tb sp /2 0 g salt, or as needed
and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the
l 3/ t ts p /3 .5 0 g ground black pepper, or as needed
sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
strain.
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 2 f I o z/6 0 mL tomato puree
9 . Serve the oxtails immediately with the sauce and vegetables or hold hot for service. Garnish with the deep-fried onions.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL dry red wine 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
Deep-Fried Onions Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, tourne or cut in batonnet 6 o z/1 7 0 g celeriac, tourne or cut in batonnet
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g white turnips, tourne or cut in batonnet
12 o z/3 4 0 g onion, cut in julienne or thin rings
6 o z/1 7 0 g rutabaga, tourne or cut in batonnet
5 o z/1 4 2 g all-purpose flour
10 o z /2 8 4 g Deep-Fried Onions (recipe follows)
Salt, as needed
1 . Season the oxtails with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the oxtails carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides. This may need to be done in batches so that the rondeau is not overcrowded. Transfer the oxtails
braising and stewing recipes
Braised Oxtails
1 . Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fryer or a deep pot to 375°F/i9 i°C.
2 . Dredge the onions in the flour and shake off any ex cess. Deep fry until golden brown.
3 . Drain on paper towels, season with salt, and hold warm until ready to serve.
to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the mirepoix to the 011 and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about l minute.
4 . Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Re duce the wine by half. Return the oxtails to the pan along with any juices they may have released. Add the stock to cover the oxtails by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and add the sachet. Cover the pot and transfer to a 350°F/i77°C oven. Braise the oxtails for 2 hours. 6 . Add the carrots, celeriac, turnips, and rutabaga. Continue to braise until the meat is fork-tender and the vegetables are fully cooked, about 30 minutes, turning the oxtails occasionally to keep them evenly moistened.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI NG
581
Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalbi Jjim) Makes 10 servings
6 . Meanwhile, heat half of the vegetable oil in a saute pan. Cook the egg whites to make a thin omelet. Repeat with the remaining oil and egg yolks. Cut both the egg white and egg yolk omelets into lozenge shapes. Reserve.
10 dried shiitake mushrooms
7 . Remove and discard the ginger from the cooking
2 0 beef short ribs pieces (about 10 lb /4.54 kg), 3-in/8-cm lengths
liquid. Add the sugar and adjust seasoning with soy
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL mirin
oil and cook until heated through.
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce, or as needed 8 o z/2 2 7 g onions, cut into 2-in /5-cm pieces
sauce, if necessary. Stir in the pine nuts and sesame 8 . Serve the short ribs immediately with the sauce, or hold hot for service. Garnish with the omelet lozenges.
2 o z/5 7 g ginger, peeled and lightly crushed 6 garlic cloves, chopped 2 V i o z/71 g Chinese red dates (jujubes) 1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced daikon 1 lb /4 5 4 g oblique-cut carrots 1 ts p /3 g s a lt 2 tbsp/BO mL vegetable oil 4 eggs, separated Sugar, as needed 5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted pine nuts 1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil
1 . Rehydrate the mushrooms in cool water overnight or in warm water the day of service. Cut off the stems and halve the mushrooms. Strain the rehydration water and reserve.
2 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the short ribs for 6 to 8 minutes to remove any impurities. Skim the scum that forms on the surface; drain and rinse.
3 . Place the blanched short ribs in a large pot and add the mirin, soy sauce, onions, ginger, garlic, dates, and enough reserved mushroom-infused water to just cover the short ribs.
4 . Simmer over low heat until the short ribs are forktender, about 2 hours, turning occasionally to keep the beef evenly moistened.
5 . When the meat is fork-tender, add the mushrooms, daikon, carrots, and salt and simmer until the veg etables are tender, about 10 minutes more.
ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Braised Short Ribs Makes 10 servings
8 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with the remaining salt and pepper and strain. Stir in the Madeira or sherry and
10 beef short ribs pieces (about 8 lb 8 o z/3 .8 5 kg), 2-in/5-cm lengths
bring to a simmer to cook out some of the alcohol
r
flavor to finish the sauce.
/2
tb sp /1 5 g salt
l 3/ t ts p /3 .5 0 g ground black pepper 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
9 . Serve the short ribs immediately with the sauce, or hold hot for service.
8 o z/2 2 7 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL dry red wine 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293), or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
Beef Rouiaden in Burgundy Sauce Makes 10 servings
2 bay leaves Pinch dried thyme
3 lb /1.36 kg boneless beef bottom round, trimmed and cut into twenty 2 -o z/5 7 -g pieces
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Madeira or sherry
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
1 . Season the short ribs with l tbsp/io g salt and 1V2 tsp/3 g pepper.
2.. Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Rouiaden Stuffing (recipe follows) 20 gherkins
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
the short ribs carefully in the oil and sear until deep
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
brown on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice onions
short ribs to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 4 o z /1 1 3 g tomato puree
golden brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Burgundy or other dry red wine
and cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a
l 3/ t q t/1 .6 8 L Demi-Glace (page 293) or Espagnole Sauce (page 294)
sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce the wine by half, about 3 minutes.
1 . Pound each piece of beef between sheets of parch
Return the short ribs to the pan along with any
ment paper or plastic wrap to a thickness of V4 in/6
juices they may have released. Add enough stock and
mm. Blot dry and season with salt and pepper.
demi-glace to cover the short ribs by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
2 . Center 1 tbsp/15 mL of the stuffing on each piece, top with a gherkin, roll the beef around the stuffing,
Cover the pot and transfer to a 350°F/i77°C oven.
and secure with toothpicks or string. Dredge the
Braise the short ribs for 45 minutes.
beef in the flour and shake off any excess.
6 . Add the bay leaves and thyme and degrease the liq
3 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over
uid if necessary. Finish braising the short ribs until
medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place
fork-tender, about 1 hour 30 minutes more.
the beef rolls carefully in the oil and sear until deep
7 . Transfer the short ribs to a hotel pan or other hold ing container and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
ME A T S . POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer the beef rolls to a hotel pan and reserve.
time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
Rouladen S tu ffin g Makes 1 lb 8 oz/68o g
Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, 1 minute more. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped bacon
minute. 3 o z/8 5 g minced onions
5 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce by half. Return the beef rolls to the
4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped lean ham
pan along with any juices they may have released.
2 o z/5 7 g ground beef
Add enough demi-glace to cover the rolls by
2 eggs, beaten
two-thirds. 6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
3’/2 o z/9 9 g dried bread crumbs, or as needed 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
Cover and braise in a 325°F/i 63°C oven until forktender, 1 to 1V2 hours, turning occasionally to keep
1 ts p /3 g salt
the beef evenly moistened.
V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
7 . Transfer the beef rolls to a hotel pan, moisten with some of the cooking liquid, and hold warm. 8 . Simmer the cooking liquid over medium heat to a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain the sauce.
9 . Serve the rouladen immediately with the sauce, or hold hot for service.
1 . Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and render until foamy and browned. Add the onions and saute until tender and translu cent, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let the
braising and stewing recipes
4 . Add the onions to the oil and cook, stirring from
bacon and onions cool.
2 . Add the ham, beef, and eggs to the onion mixtureand mix until evenly combined.
3 . Add enough bread crumbs to tighten the stuffing; the mixture should hold together but still be moist. Season with parsley, salt, and pepper.
4 . The stuffing is ready to use now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I N G A N D STEWI NG
585
Yankee Pot Roast Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the potatoes, turnips, carrots, and pearl onions and finish braising until the beef is fork-tender and the vegetables are fully cooked, 35 to 45 minutes
4 lb/1.81 kg beef shoulder clod, bottom round, or eye round, trimmed
more.
7 . Transfer the beef and vegetables to a hotel pan or
4 ts p /1 2 g s a lt
other holding container and moisten with some of
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions
sauce. 8 . Simmer the cooking liquid over medium heat until it has a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato puree 8 f I o z/2 2 7 mL dry red wine l 3/ t q t/1 .6 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 262) 24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293) or Espagnole Sauce (page 294) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) 10 new potatoes (4 lb 4 o z/1.92 kg), halved 10 baby turnips (8 o z/2 2 7 g), halved 20 baby carrots (8 o z/2 2 7 g), peeled 60 pearl onions (1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g), blanched and peeled
1 . Season the beef with 2 tsp/6.50 g salt and V2 tsp/i g pepper and tie it.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium, add the onions to the 011 and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato puree and cook until it turns a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the beef to the pan along with any juices it may have released. Add enough stock and demi-glace to come about halfway up the beef.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer it to a 3250 to 350^/163° to 177°C oven. Braise the beef for 1V2 hours, turning occasionally to keep it evenly moistened. Add the sachet and degrease the liquid if necessary.
ME A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with the re maining salt and pepper, if necessary.
9 . Remove the string from the beef, slice it into serv ings, and serve immediately with the sauce and veg etables, or hold hot for service.
Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown. Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deeper color and
MARINADE 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry red wine 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar 2 q t/1 .9 2 L w a te r
gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
7 . Add the reserved marinade to the pan, stirring to release any drippings. Add the marinade solids sa chet to the pan. Reduce the marinade by half. 8 . Add the flour to the butter in a small saute pan
12 o z/3 4 0 g sliced onions
to make a roux. Cook the roux until golden, 4 to
8 black peppercorns
5 minutes. Cool slightly before whisking into the
10 juniper berries
reduced marinade.
2 bay leaves 2 cloves
9 . Whisk in the stock and bring to a simmer. Return the beef to the pan along with any juices it may have released. Cover the pan and simmer over low heat until the beef is tender, 3V2 to 4V2 hours.
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless beef bottom round
1 0 . Transfer the beef to a hotel pan or other holding 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g salt, or as needed 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper, or as needed 3 f I o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g Standard Mirepoix (page 243) 4 o z /1 1 3 g tomato paste 2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
container and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
1 1 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good fla vor and consistency, 30 to 35 minutes. Skim thor oughly to degrease the sauce.
1 2 . Add the gingersnaps and cook until the gingersnaps dissolve, about 10 minutes. Strain the sauce
3 tb sp /5 g clarified butter
through cheesecloth. Adjust seasoning with salt
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
and pepper, if necessary.
3 o z/8 5 g gingersnaps, pulverized
braising and stewing recipes
Sauerbraten
1 3 . Remove the string from the beef, slice into serv ings, and serve immediately with the sauce, or
1 . To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients
hold hot for service.
in a medium nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil. Cool to room temperature and refrigerate.
2 . Season the beef with salt and pepper and tie it. Place the beef in the marinade. Refrigerate for 3 to 5 days, turning it twice per day.
3 . Remove the meat from the marinade. Dry thor oughly and season again with salt and pepper.
4 . Strain the marinade and reserve the liquid and solids separately. Bring the strained marinade to a simmer and skim off the scum. Place the solids in cheesecloth and tie as for a sachet d epices.
5 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan and reserve.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I N G A N D S TE WI N G
587
Mole Negro Makes 10 servings
3 . Dry roast the reserved chile seeds in a 6-in/i5-cm cast-iron skillet over medium heat until black ened, but not burned, 15 to 20 minutes. (This step
2 'A o z/6 4 g guajillo chiles, seeds and veins removed, seeds reserved
should only be undertaken with good ventilation or in an outdoor area.)
V/2 o z/4 3 g ancho chiles, seeds and veins removed, seeds reserved
4 . Soak the seeds in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain
V 2 o z/1 4 g chipotle meco chiles, seeds and veins removed, seeds reserved
5 . Dry roast the onions, tomatoes, and tomatillos in
and discard the water. the large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Keep
1 lb 3 o z/5 39 g white onions 1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes 8 o z/2 2 7 g tomatillos 1 o z/2 8 g garlic cloves, unpeeled 8
'A o z/2 3 4 g lard, or as needed
9 o z/2 5 5 g peeled, sliced ripe plantain
turning until blistered and soft, about 15 minutes. Remove and reserve. 6 . Dry roast the garlic in the small cast-iron skillet over medium heat until the papery skin begins to brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and discard the papery skin.
7 . Heat the lard in a 6-in/i5-cm saute pan over me
2 'A o z/6 4 g brioche
dium heat and fry the plantain until dark brown,
V2 o z/1 4 g whole almonds
about 5 minutes. Drain the plantains in a strainer
3/ * o z/21 g pecans
and reserve the strained lard.
V2 o z/1 4 g peanuts 2 tb s p /1 8 g raisins
8 . Repeat the same procedure with the following ingredients, frying each separately until golden brown and straining to remove as much lard as pos
2 o z/5 7 g sesame seeds
sible: brioche, almonds, pecans, peanuts, raisins,
1 ts p /2 g ground Mexican cinnamon
and sesame seeds.
5 black peppercorns 3 cloves V 2 tsp /1 g Mexican oregano V2 tsp /1 g dried marjoram
9 . Dry roast the cinnamon, peppercorns, cloves, oregano, marjoram, and thyme in a small saute pan over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.
10 . Puree the chiles and chile seeds in a blender with about 16 fl oz/480 mL water, or as needed to form
V2 tsp /1 g dried thyme
a smooth paste. Pass the paste through a fine-mesh
3 avocado leaves
strainer and set aside.
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Chicken Broth (page 334) 5 o z/1 42 g Mexican chocolate, broken into pieces
11 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the reserved lard in a ron deau or brasier over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and fry the chile puree until most
2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
of the liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes. (You
Sugar, as needed
should be able to see the bottom of the pan when
4 whole chicken legs, poached
stirring.)
4 chicken breasts, skinless, boneless, poached
12 . Puree the roasted vegetables, spices, and all the fried ingredients in a blender with water as needed
1 . Dry roast guajillos, anchos, and chipotles in a i2-in/30-cm cast-iron skillet over medium heat until blackened but not burned.
2 . Soak the toasted chiles in hot water for 15 minutes. Drain and discard the water.
to form a smooth puree. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside.
1 3 . Add the pureed vegetable mixture to the chile pu ree when you can see the bottom of the pan when scraped and the oil rises to the top of the puree. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the mole covers the back of a spoon and you can see the bot tom of the pan when scraped, about 30 minutes.
M E A T S , P O U L T R Y FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
medium heat until fragrant. Add the whole leaves to the mole.
1 5 . Add 16 fl oz/480 mL of the broth and keep stirring on a low simmer for 1 hour.
1 6 . Add the chocolate and stir until dissolved. Season with the salt and sugar.
1 7 . Continue simmering and stirring occasionally for
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g carrots, large dice or batonnet, blanched 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g white turnips, large dice or batonnet, blanched 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g rutabaga, large dice or batonnet, blanched 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g green beans, cut into l-in /3 -c m pieces, blanched
1 hour more. Add more water or broth if the mole becomes too thick.
1 8 . Add the poached chicken to the mole and cook to heat through, about 5 minutes.
1 9 . Adjust seasoning with salt, sugar, and chocolate. Remove and discard the avocado leaves. The mole is ready to serve now or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use. NOTES: Serve the mole negro w ith arroz bianco and warm
V 2 o z /1 4 g chopped parsley
1 . Season the beef with the salt and pepper.
2.. Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the beef carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as many sides as possible. This may need to be done in batches. Transfer the beef to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions to the
corn tortillas.
oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until cara
Mole negro sauce w ill keep up to two weeks, refrigerated, but should be reheated and diluted with
melized. Add the garlic and tomato paste, if using,
warm w ater every three days. Mole negro w ill keep fo r up to two months frozen.
and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
braising and stewing recipes
1 4 . Toast the avocado leaves in a dry saute pan over
and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper color
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce the wine by three-quarters. Return the beef to the pan along with any juices it may have
Beef Stew Makes
10
servings
released.
5 . Add the veal stock, espagnole sauce, sachet, and bou quet garni. Bring to a gentle simmer over mediumlow heat. Cover the pot and stew the beef until ten
7 lb 8 o z/3.40 kg boneless beef shank or chuck, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes lt b s p /lO g s a lt I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper
der, about 2 hours. Add more stock during cooking, if necessary. Skim and degrease the stew as it cooks. 6 . Remove and discard the sachet and bouquet garni.
7 . At service, heat the butter and chicken stock in a
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the car
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced onion
rots, turnips, rutabaga, and green beans and toss to
5 garlic cloves, minced
coat until the stock has reduced and the vegetables are hot. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
2 f I o z/6 0 mL tomato paste (optional)
8 . Serve the stew immediately with the vegetables or 30 f I o z/9 0 0 mL red wine
hold hot for service. Garnish with the parsley.
40 fl o z/1.20 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed 2 'A q t/2 .4 0 L Espagnole Sauce (page 294) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) 1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) 2 o z/5 7 g butter
chapter 20 » B R A I S I N G A N D STEWI NG
589
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni
2.
To make the filling, soak the bread in the milk un til soft. Squeeze the bread to remove excess mois ture. Combine the bread with the pine nuts, 1V2 oz/43 g of the parsley, the minced garlic, 1V2 oz/ 43 g of the Parmesan, 1V2 oz/43 g of the pecorino, and the raisins. Season with salt and pepper.
( B r o c i o l e
d i
M a i a l e
a l
3 . Cover each slice of pork with a small piece of pro sciutto. Spread the filling over the slices, leaving
R a g u Makes
10
e
R i g a t o n i )
servings
5 lb /2.27 kg pork butt, thinly sliced 9 o z/2 5 5 g crustless bread, dried, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes 12 o z/3 6 0 mL milk V / 2 o z/4 3 g toasted pine nuts
about V2 in/i cm at the edge. Lay a batonnet of provolone over the filling on each piece.
4 . Roll the pork over the filling and tie into bundles with twine. Season the outside of the rolls with salt and pepper.
5 . Heat half of the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the pork rolls carefully in the oil and sear until
V A o z/5 0 g chopped parsley
deep brown on all sides. Transfer the pork rolls to a
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
hotel pan and reserve.
2 o z/5 7 g finely grated Parmesan
6 . Reduce the heat to low, add the crushed garlic to the oil, and cook, stirring from time to time, until
2 o z/5 7 g finely grated pecorino 2 3/4 o z /7 8 g raisins 1 ts p /3 g salt, or as needed 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper 4 o z/1 1 3 g thinly sliced prosciutto 4 o z/1 1 3 g provolone, cut into thin batonnets
golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic.
7 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce until almost dry, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bring the mixture to a simmer. Return the pork rolls to the pan along with any juices they may have released. Add the red pepper flakes
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
and bay leaves. Adjust seasoning with salt and
2 o z/5 7 g garlic, peeled and crushed
pepper.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL red wine 12 lb 8 o z/5 .6 7 kg peeled plum tomatoes, passed through a food mill, with liquid 1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes 3 bay leaves 2 lb /9 0 7 g fennel sausage 1 lb /4 5 4 g rigatoni pasta, cooked 2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade
8 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover and braise until fork-tender, about 1 hour, turning occasionally to keep the pork evenly moistened.
9 . Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a heavy saute pan. Add the sausage and cook slowly over low heat until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
1 0 . Add the sausage to the pork rolls after 1 hour and cook for 30 minutes more.
1 1 . Allow the braised pork rolls, sausage, and sauce to 1 . Pound each portion of pork between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap into a piece 8 by
rest for 30 minutes. Degrease, if necessary. 1 2 . Remove the strings from the pork rolls and serve
8 in/20 by 20 cm and Vs in/3 mm thick. Use the rough side of the mallet to tenderize the meat. Re
and sauce, or hold everything hot for service. Gar
frigerate.
nish with the remaining Parmesan, pecorino, pars
immediately on a bed of rigatoni with the sausage
ley, and the basil.
590
M E A T S , POUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Homemade Sauerkraut
Makes 10 servings
Makes about 2 gal/y.68 L
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g smoked pork loin S a lt as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 beef frankfurters 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g garlic sausage 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL rendered goose fat, lard, or vegetable shortening
20 lb /9 .0 7 kg shredded green cabbage, 2-in /5-cm lengths 8 o z /2 2 7 g salt
1 . Toss the cabbage with the salt until evenly combined.
2 . Line a food-grade plastic bucket with cheesecloth. Place the salted cabbage in the bucket and fold the
10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced onions
cheesecloth over the top. Press firmly to pack the
1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic
cabbage down and create an even surface.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Homemade Sauerkraut (recipe follows) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241), plus 6 juniper berries
3 . Weight the top of the cabbage and cover with plastic wrap. Label with the date. Let the sauerkraut fer ment at room temperature for 10 days. Remove the weights, cover well, and refrigerate.
4 . The sauerkraut is ready to serve now, or it may be
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g slab bacon, cut into slices 1 by 2 in /3 by 5 cm
refrigerated for later service. Rinse the sauerkraut in
3 lb 12 o z/1 .7 0 kg russet potatoes, tourne
salt before using.
braising and stewing recipes
Choucroute
cool running water to remove a little of the excess
1 . Season the pork with salt and pepper and tie, if nec essary. Prick the frankfurters and sausages in 5 or 6 places to prevent them from bursting. Reserve in the refrigerator.
2 . Heat the fat in a rondeau or brasier over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat them in the fat without browning. Add the sauerkraut to the onion mixture.
3 . Add the wine and sachet and stir. Bring the liquid up to a simmer.
4 . Place the pork and bacon on top of the sauerkraut. Cover the pan and braise in a 325°F/i63°C oven for approximately 45 minutes. Add the frankfurters and sausages to the pan, return the cover, and continue to cook until the pork, frankfurters, and sausages reach an internal temperature of i55°F/68°C, 15 to 20 minutes.
5 . Transfer the meat to a hotel pan and hold warm. Re move and discard the sachet. 6 . Add the potatoes to the sauerkraut and simmer until the potatoes are fully cooked, about 15 minutes. Ad just seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Slice the pork, frankfurters, and sausages and serve immediately on a bed of sauerkraut and potatoes, or hold everything hot for service.
chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S TE WI N G
593
Cassoulet
to become a nappe consistency, about 30 minutes.
Makes 12 servings
Reserve the sauce for later use.
4 . To make the meat stew, season the pork and lamb BEAN STEW
with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a medium
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried navy beans, soaked overnight
starts to shimmer. Place the pork and lamb care fully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as
1 lb /4 5 4 g slab bacon, cut into slices !/t in /6 mm thick
many sides as possible. Transfer the meat to a hotel
1 lb /4 5 4 g garlic sausage
pan and reserve.
2 medium onions 1 o z/2 8 g chopped garlic
5 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to time, until caramelized, about 11 minutes.
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) lt b s p /lO g s a lt MEAT STEW 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless pork loin, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g White Mirepoix (page 243) '/ 2
ts p /1.50 g garlic paste
3 fl o z/9 0 mL white wine 8 o z/2 2 7 g tomato concasse 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
1 minute. 6 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drippings. Reduce the wine until almost dry. Re turn the pork and lamb to the pan along with any juices they may have released.
7 . Add the concasse, sachet d’epices, demi-glace, and veal stock. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer it to a 275°F/i35°C oven. Braise the meat until forktender, about 1 hour. 8 . Transfer the meats to a hotel pan or other holding container and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
9 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good fla vor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper,
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 2 9 3)
and strain. Pour the sauce over the meat and hold
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
hot for service.
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g Duck Confit (page 595) 12 o z/3 4 0 g dried bread crumbs 2 tb s p /6 g chopped parsley
1 . To make the bean stew, bring the chicken stock to a boil in a large sauce pot and add the beans and ba con. Return to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.
2.
Add the sausage, onions, garlic, and bouquet garni. Return to a boil and cook until the sausage reaches 150°F/66°C and the bacon is fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Remove the sausage, bacon, onion, and bouquet garni. Reserve the bacon and sausage.
3 . Add the salt and continue to cook the beans until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the beans and re serve; reduce the stock by half, until it is beginning
594
Add the garlic paste and cook until aromatic, about
M E A T S , P OUL TRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
1 0 . Peel the reserved sausage and slice it into slices % in/2 cm thick. Cut the bacon in slices % in/2 cm thick. Place the sausage, bacon, pork, and lamb in a casserole.
1 1 . Cover the meat with half of the beans, then the duck confit, and then the remaining beans.
12 . Pour the sauce from the beans over the mixture and sprinkle with the bread crumbs and parsley. Bake the cassoulet in a 300°F/i49°C oven until it is heated through and a good crust has formed, about 1 hour.
1 3 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
V/ 2 o z/4 3 g jalapenos, seeded
Makes 4 lb/1.81 kg
2 3A o z/7 8 g roughly chopped cilantro
2 ’/2 oz/71 gsalt
3A o z/21 g salt 3A o z/2 1 g cilantro sprigs
V* tsp /1 g curing salt V* ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper
1 . Place the beans in a small pot and cover with water.
2 juniper berries, crushed
Simmer over medium-low heat until completely ten
1 bay leaf, crushed
der, about 1 hour. Add more water throughout the
'/* ts p /0.75 g chopped garlic
cooking process, if necessary. Reserve the beans in their cooking liquid.
12 whole duck legs (6 to 7 lb /2.72 to 3.18 kg)
2 . Bring a large pot of water to a boil while the beans 2 4 fl o z/7 2 0 mL rendered duck fat
are simmering. Blanch the pork for 6 minutes in simmering water to remove any impurities. Skim the
1 . Mix together the 2 salts, pepper, juniper berries, bay leaf, and garlic. Coat the duck legs with the season ing mixture. Place the duck in a container with a weighted lid and press the duck for 72 hours in the refrigerator.
2 . Brush off the excess seasoning mixture or lightly rise and blot dry. Place the duck in a rondeau or brasier and cover it with the rendered duck fat. Stew the meat in the fat over medium-low heat or covered in a 300°F/i49°C oven until it is very tender, about 2 hours.
3 . Cool and store the duck legs in the cooking fat. 4 . When ready to use the confit, scrape away any ex cess fat and broil the duck on a rack until the skin is crisp, about 2 minutes, or heat in a 450°F/232°C oven. Use as needed.
scum that forms on the surface; drain and rinse.
3 . Place the blanched pork in a large pot and add the stock. Simmer over low heat until the pork is tender, about 2 hours.
4 . Fire-roast the Anaheim chiles until the skin blackens
braising and stewing recipes
Duck Confit
and the flesh is tender, 6 to 8 minutes, turning fre quently. Place the peppers in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to steam. When cool, peel and remove the stems and seeds. Reserve.
5 . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the onions and garlic to the pork. 6 . Add the potatoes and beans to the pork and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
7 . Place the roasted peppers, jalapenos, and chopped cilantro in a blender and puree until completely smooth. Add some of the cooking liquid from the
New Mexican Green Chile Stew Makes 10 servings 8 o z/2 2 7 g dried white beans, soaked overnight
stew to facilitate pureeing. Strain the mixture through a large-holed strainer, if desired. 8 . Add the puree to the stew just before serving. Sim mer for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the salt.
9 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish with roughly chopped cilantro sprigs.
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg boneless pork shoulder, large dice 2
V 2 q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Anaheim chiles 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 12 o z/3 4 0 g smalt-dice onion 1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic 2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes, medium dice
chapter 20 » B R A I S I NG A N D S T E WI N G
595
Pork Vindaloo
golden brown. Add 20 fl oz/6oo mL of the spice paste
Makes 20 servings
and cook until aromatic. Combine the tomato paste
SPICE PASTE
water has evaporated and the mixture is almost dry.
and vinegar and add to the pot. Cook until most of the
1 ts p /2 g cloves 1 ts p /2 g cardamom pods 3 tb sp /1 8 g cumin seeds
5 . Drain the marinade from the pork and add the pork to the pot. Stir to cover the pork cubes with the spice mixture. 6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
20 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Cover the pot and stew the pork until tender, stir
5 o z/1 4 2 g sliced ginger
ring occasionally to make sure that the meat does
2 tb sp /1 2 g ground turmeric
not scorch or burn. Skim and degrease the stew as it
6 tb sp /9 0 mL coriander seeds 4'/2 ts p /9 g methi seeds
cooks.
7 . Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
14 o z/3 9 7 g dried red chiles 18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL palm vinegar 3'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL strained tamarind pulp 3 o z/8 5 g salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground cinnamon
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce Makes 10 servings
PORK MARINADE 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL palm vinegar 3'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
2 /2 q t/2 .4 0 L coconut milk 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Green Curry Paste (page 370)
2 tb sp /12 g Korean chili powder
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork butt, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes
1 tb sp /6 g ground turmeric
12 kaffir lime leaves, bruised 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce
15 lb/6.8 kg boneless pork butt, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes
2 'A oz/71 g palm sugar
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL ghee or vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g Thai eggplants, quartered
4 medium onions, large dice
50 Thai basil leaves
6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato paste
3 or 4 Thai chiles, cut in fine julienne
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL palm vinegar 6 tb sp /6 0 g salt, or as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Skim the thick coconut cream from the top of the coconut milk; place the cream in a large sauce pot and cook, stirring constantly, until the cream begins to separate.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the spice paste. Cover and refrigerate for l day.
2 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Pour over the pork, toss well, cover, and refrigerate over night.
3 . Puree the spice paste mixture in a blender to make a coarse paste.
4 . Heat the ghee over medium-high heat in a medium rondeau or brasier. Add the onions and saute until
2 . Stir in the curry paste and cook until aromatic, at least 2 minutes. Add the pork and lime leaves and mix well to coat the pork.
3 . Add the fish sauce, sugar, and remaining coconut milk. Bring to a simmer; add the eggplant, and continue to simmer until the pork is tender and cooked through.
4 . Remove the pan from the heat, add the basil, and mix well.
5 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish with the chiles.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
Veal Blanquette Makes 10 servings
(S z e k e l y
G u l y a s )
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless veal breast, excess fa t removed, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice slab bacon
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice onions
V2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
4 ts p /8 g sweet paprika, or as needed
2 q t/1 .9 2 L White Veal Stock (page 263), White Beef Stock (page 263), or Chicken Stock (page 263)
3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg boneless pork leg or shoulder, cut into 3/t-in /2 -c m cubes 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg drained and rinsed Homemade Sauerkraut (page 593) V /2 q t/1 .4 4 L White Beef Stock (page 263) or Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) 8 o z/2 2 7 g Blond or White Roux (page 246) 1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g white mushrooms, stewed in butter and/or stock until tender 12 o z/3 4 0 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour, mixed with water to make a slurry
2 egg yolks, beaten
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL sour cream
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream
10 o z/2 8 4 g slab bacon, rind on, cut into thick slices
Lemon juice, as needed
1 . Render the diced bacon over medium heat in a large pot until crisp, about 10 minutes. Remove the bacon from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the onions to the fat and saute over medium-
1 . Season the veal with salt and pepper.
2 . Heat the stock in a medium sauce pot to a simmer and season with salt and pepper as needed. Place the veal in a second pot and pour the heated stock over it.
high heat until translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove
Bring to a simmer, stirring, and skim as necessary to
the pot from the heat.
remove impurities. Simmer for 1 hour.
3 . Add i tbsp/6 g of the paprika and the pork to the
3 . Add the bouquet garni. Continue to simmer until
pan, cover, and cook over low heat for 30 minutes,
the veal is tender to the bite, 30 to 45 minutes more.
stirring periodically. (Be careful not to cook out the
Transfer the veal from the liquid to a hotel pan and
moisture and burn the paprika.)
hold warm.
4 . Add the sauerkraut. Pour enough stock over the sau
4 . Add the roux to the simmering liquid, whisking to com
erkraut to cover. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot,
bine well, and return to a full boil. Reduce the heat and
and cook until the meat is fork-tender, about 1 hour.
simmer, stirring and skimming as necessary, until the
5 . Combine the flour slurry with 8 fl oz/240 mL of the sour cream. Add the slurry mixture to the goulash and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened sufficiently. 6 . To make “coxcombs,” make incisions (V2 to % in/i to 2 cm) into the rind of each slice of bacon at intervals of V2 to % in/i to 2 cm. Saute the bacon until crisp
sauce is thickened and flavorful, 20 to 30 minutes.
5 . Return the veal and any juices it has released to the sauce, along with the mushrooms and pearl onions. Simmer until hot. (The stew may be cooled rapidly and refrigerated for later service. Return cooled stew to a simmer before adding the liaison.) 6 . Combine the egg yolks and cream to make a liaison.
and brown. Dip the tips of the coxcombs in the re
Temper the liaison with some of the simmering liquid
maining paprika and hold them warm until ready to
and add to the stew. Return the stew to a slow simmer
serve.
and cook until it is lightly thickened and has reached
7 . Serve the goulash immediately with the remaining sour cream on top, or hold ungarnished and hot for service. Garnish with the coxcombs.
braising and stewing recipes
Szekely Goulash
i65°F/74°C. (T oo much heat and/or cooking will co agulate the egg yolks.) Add lemon juice and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve the blanquette immediately or hold hot for later service.
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G
597
Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage Makes 15 to 20 servings
8 . Remove the strings and slice the veal into servings. Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for service.
Mushroom Sausage Makes 2 lb 12 o z /1.25 kg
1 boneless veal breast (about 8 lb /3.63 kg) 1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, or more as needed
SPICE MIXTURE
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or more as needed
2 ts p /6 g onion powder
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg Mushroom Sausage (recipe follows)
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 fI o z/6 0 mL olive oil
3A ts p /4 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
'/ 2
ts p /3 g anise seed
2 o z/5 7 g tomato paste
]A ts p /0 .7 5 g garlic powder
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL dry white wine
1A ts p /0.50 g Spanish paprika
16 fl o z/4 80 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
'A ts p /0.50 g cayenne
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293) or Jus de Veau Lie (page 293)
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g veal shank or lean pork, diced 6 o z/1 7 0 g cooked white rice
1 . Butterfly the veal breast and pound to an even thick
3'/2 o z/9 9 g minced onion
ness. Season with salt and pepper. Center the sau
3 fI o z/9 0 mL heavy cream
sage on the breast, roll the veal around the sausage with the grain, and tie to secure.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
3 egg whites 7 o z/1 9 8 g white mushrooms, diced
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the veal carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides. Transfer the veal to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the spice mixture. Scatter over the meat and toss to coat evenly. Refrig erate until needed.
2.. Grind the seasoned meat through a coarse die of
Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deep
a meat grinder. Fold the rice and onions into the
er color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
ground meat and grind a second time through a fine
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Reduce by half. Return the veal to the pan along with any juices it may have released. Add
die. (Chill the mixture if its temperature rises above 40°F/4°C.)
3 . Working over an ice bath, add the cream and egg
enough stock and demi-glace or jus lie to cover the
whites and mix by hand until evenly blended. Fold
veal by two-thirds.
in the mushrooms.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover and braise in a 350°F/i77°C oven until forktender, 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, turning occa sionally to keep the veal evenly moistened. 6 . Transfer the veal to a hotel pan, moisten with some of the cooking liquid, and hold warm.
7 . Simmer the cooking liquid to a good flavor and consis tency. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain the sauce.
M E A T S , POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
4 . The sausage is ready to use now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
Makes 10 portions
6 . Skim thoroughly to degrease the stew. Remove and discard the sachet. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve the stew in heated bowls garnished
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-in /5-cm cubes 3/ t o z/21 g Hungarian paprika Salt, as needed
with sour cream. Beef Goulash: Replace the pork w ith an equal amount of boneless beef round or chuck.
Ground black pepper, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g vegetable oil or lard 3 lb /1.36 kg small-dice onion 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Jus de Veau Lie (page 293) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 263) SACHET D'EPICES 1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest 1 ts p /2 g caraway seeds V i tsp /1 g dried marjoram
braising and stewing recipes
Pork Goulash
V i tsp /1 g dried savory V a
ts p /0 .5 0 g dried thyme
Va ts p /0 .5 0 g black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 2 garlic cloves
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
1 . Season the pork with the paprika, salt, and pepper. 2 . Heat the oil or lard in a rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the pork carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides. This may have to be done in batches. Transfer the pork to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions to the pan and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the pork to the pan along with any juices it may have released. Add the jus lie and enough stock to completely cover the pork.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Tie all the sachet ingredients in cheesecloth and add the sachet. Cover the pot and continue to cook over low heat, or transfer to a 35o°F/i77°C oven. Stew the pork until the pork is fork-tender, about l hour 15 minutes.
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D STEW ING
599
Osso Buco Milanese w ith R isotto alia Milanese (page 783)
Makes 10 servings
6 . Transfer the veal shanks to a hotel pan or other hold ing container and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Remove the string from around the shanks.
10 veal shank crosscuts, V / 2 in /4 cm thick (about 12 o z/3 4 0 g each)
Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Simmer the remaining cooking liquid until it has
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, or as needed
a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or as needed
degrease. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
strain. Hold hot for service.
2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour
8 . Serve the veal shanks immediately with the sauce and gremolata, or hold them hot for service.
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243), separate 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
Gremolata
3 o z/8 5 g tomato paste
Makes 7 oz/ig8 g
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL dry white wine 5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs 2 qt /1 .9 2 L Brown Veal Stock (page 263) V2
o z/1 4 g orange zest, blanched, minced
V2
o z/1 4 g lemon zest, blanched, minced
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) 1 o z/2 8 g Gremolata (recipe follows) 4 garlic cloves, minced
1 . Season the veal with salt and pepper and tie a string around the shanks to keep them together.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
V2
braising and stewing recipes
Osso Buco Milanese
o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Lightly dredge the veal in flour and shake off the excess. Place the
1 . Spread the bread crumbs in an even, thin layer on a
shanks carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown
dry sheet pan and toast them in a 400°F/204°C oven
on all sides. Transfer the shanks to a hotel pan and
until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a
reserve.
bowl and reserve.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the onions from the mirepoix to the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown. Add the carrots and celery and cook until just beginning to soften. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce the wine by half. Return the shanks
2 . Add the orange and lemon zests, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper to the bread crumbs. Toss to combine.
3 . The gremolata is ready to use now, or may be refrig erated for later use. NOTE: For a more traditional gremolata, combine V 2 oz/14 g minced garlic, 3/4 oz/21 g grated lemon zest, I V 2 oz/ 43 g chopped parsley, and, if desired, V 4 oz/7 g minced anchovy fille ts.
to the pan along with any juices they may have re leased. Add enough stock to cover the veal by two-thirds.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer it to a 325°F/i63°C oven. Braise the veal shanks for 45 minutes. Add the bou quet garni and degrease the liquid if necessary. Fin ish braising the veal until fork-tender, 1 to 1V2 hours more.
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D STEW ING
601
Polish S tu ffe d Cabbage Makes 10 servings
5 . For each cabbage roll, dampen a i2-in/30-cm square of cheesecloth. Place the cheesecloth in an 8-fl oz/240-mL round cup. Place 2 cabbage leaves in the cup, overlapping the leaves so that there are no open spaces. Place 4 oz/113 g of the meat mixture in
20 large savoy cabbage leaves (outer leaves) FILLING 12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless veal breast, diced
the center of the leaves and wrap them around to enclose the filling. Twist the excess cheesecloth to form each roll into a ball. Do not twist too hard or the cabbage leaves will rip. Remove the cabbage rolls
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless pork shoulder, diced
from the cheesecloth each time they are formed and
12 o z/3 4 0 g boneless beef bottom round, diced
gently place on a platter or in a hotel pan.
l
'/ 2
tb s p /1 5 g s a lt
l
'/ 2
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
6 . Place the mirepoix and bay leaf in a rondeau or brasier. Place the cabbage rolls seam side down on top of the mirepoix. Add enough hot stock to come
10 o z/2 8 4 g small-dice onion, sauteed and cooled
about halfway up the rolls and place the bacon on
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream
top of the cabbage rolls, if desired. Bring the stock
3 eggs
to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer to a 325°F/i63°C oven. Braise
6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs V* ts p /0.50 g freshly grated nutmeg, or as needed
the cabbage rolls to an internal temperature of i6o°F/7i°C, 25 to 30 minutes.
7 . Serve the cabbage rolls immediately with 2% fl oz/75 6 o z/1 7 0 g thinly sliced Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
mL tomato sauce per serving, or hold them hot for
1 bay leaf
service.
2'/2 q t/2 .4 0 L White Beef Stock (page 263), or as needed, hot
NOTE: This dish d iffe rs from a typical braise because it is not served w ith the reduced cooking liquid: it is served w ith a
6 o z/1 7 0 g slab bacon, cut into 10 slices (optional) 25 fl o z/7 5 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 2 9 5)
1 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the cabbage leaves until pliable, about 5 minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water, and drain once more. Remove the large vein from each cabbage leaf with a paring knife. Reserve under refrigeration.
2 . To make the filling, season the veal, pork, and beef with 1 tbsp/10 g salt and 1 tsp/2 g pepper.
3 . Grind the seasoned meat through a coarse die of a meat grinder. Fold the onions into the ground meat and grind a second time through the same die. (Chill the mixture if its temperature rises above 40°F/4°C.)
4 . Working over an ice bath, add the cream and eggs to the meat mixture in a medium bowl. Use a rub ber spatula to mix until evenly blended. Fold in the bread crumbs. Season with the remaining salt and pepper and the nutmeg.
602
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
separate sauce.
Braised Lamb Shanks Makes 10 servings
6 . Transfer the shanks to a hotel pan or other holding container and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
Ten l-lb /4 5 4 -g lamb shanks
7 . Simmer the cooking liquid until it has a good flavor
2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
and consistency, about 3 minutes. Skim thoroughly
2 V i ts p /5 g ground black pepper
to degrease the sauce. If necessary, thicken the sauce
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243), separate 2 tb sp /3 0 mL tomato paste 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL dry red wine 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 264) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263) 8 o z/2 2 7 g Blond Roux (page 246), cooled
lightly with the arrowroot slurry. Adjust seasoning with the remaining salt and pepper, and strain. 8 . Serve the shanks immediately with the sauce or hold them hot for service. NOTES: To prepare braised lamb shanks in advance and finish them in batches or a la minute, cool the shanks a fte r they have been removed from the braising liquid. Foods th a t are braised on the bone have a wonderful flavor and texture but may be a challenge fo r the guest
1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) 1 garlic head, halved and roasted (see page 634) Arrowroot slurry (see page 248), as needed (optional)
1 . Season the shanks with l tbsp/io g salt and 1V2 tsp/3 g pepper.
2 . Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
to eat. It is sometimes appropriate to remove the bones before service: Once the shanks are cool enough to handle, pull out the shank bone. Transfer the boneless shanks to a hotel pan. Cover and refrigerate the shanks. Cool and store the sauce separately in a bain-marie or other container. To complete the shanks fo r service, ladle a small amount o f a fla vo rfu l stock, remouillage, or broth on the shanks and reheat them in the oven.
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the shanks carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides, about 15 minutes. Transfer the shanks to a ho tel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions from the mirepoix to the pan and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Add the carrots and celery and cook until they just begin to become tender. Add the tomato paste and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4
.
Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Reduce the wine by half, 4 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the stock and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the cooled roux until combined and return the sauce to a simmer. Return the shanks to the pan along with any juices they may have released.
5 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and transfer it to a 325°F/i63°C oven. Braise the lamb shanks for 45 minutes. Add the sachet and roasted garlic and degrease the liquid if necessary. Finish braising the lamb until fork-tender, about 2 hours more.
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
To complete the dish, reheat the amount o f sauce needed in a saute pan, add the reheated shanks, simmer briefly, and adjust seasoning.
Makes 12 servings
the sauce. If necessary, thicken with arrowroot slur ry. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain. Add cilantro to the entire batch or to individual serv ings. Hold hot for service.
9. Remove the strings and slice the lamb into servings. 5 lb /2.27 kg boneless lamb leg
Serve immediately with the sauce or hold hot for
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt, or more as needed
service.
I V 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper, or more as needed 2 lb 4 o z/1.25 kg Herbed Forcemeat Stuffing (recipe follows) 2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
Herbed Forcemeat Stuffing Makes 2 lb 4 02/1.02 kg
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice Standard Mirepoix (page 243)
2 o z/5 7 g butter
2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste
8 o z/2 2 7 g f ine-dice onion
3 fl o z/9 0 mL dry sherry
3 o z/8 5 g fine-dice celery
r /2 q t/1 .4 4 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 26 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
8 o z/2 2 7 g fine-dice mushrooms
2 bay leaves Arrowroot slurry (see page 248), as needed 1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro
1. Butterfly the lamb and pound to an even thickness. 2 . Season with salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing on the lamb, roll, and tie to secure.
3. Heat the oil in a rondeau or brasier over medium-
5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice bread 6 o z/1 7 0 g ground beef 6 o z/1 7 0 g ground pork 6 o z/1 7 0 g ground veal le g g V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
V2 ts p /0 .5 0 g basil chiffonade V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g minced savory
high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the lamb
V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g minced sage
carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all
Salt, as needed
sides. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan and reserve.
braising and stewing recipes
Portuguese S tu ffe d Leg o f Lamb
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 . Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook until it turns a deep er color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
5. Add the sherry to the pan, stirring to release any pan drippings. Reduce by half. Return the lamb to the pan along with any juices it may have released. Add enough stock to cover the lamb by two-thirds. 6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low
1 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions and saute, stirring fre quently, until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the celery and mushrooms. Continue to cook until tender. Transfer to a bowl and cool.
2 . Add the bread, ground meats, egg, herbs, salt, and pepper and mix until combined. The stuffing is ready to use now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
heat. Add the bay leaves, cover, and braise in a 325°F/ i 63°C oven until fork-tender, 1V2 to 2 hours, turning occasionally to keep the lamb evenly moistened.
7. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan, moisten with some of the cooking liquid, and hold warm. 8 . Simmer the remaining cooking liquid to a good flavor and consistency. Skim thoroughly to degrease
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D ST EW IN G
605
Lamb Navarin Makes 10 servings
pot and stew the lamb for about l hour. Add more stock during cooking, if necessary. Skim and de grease the stew as it cooks.
4 lb/1.81 kg boneless lamb shoulder, neck, shank, or leg, cut into 2-in/5-cm cubes
Add the carrots, potatoes, celery, turnips, and mush
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
the bite and the vegetables are fully cooked. Remove
V / 2 tsp/B g ground black pepper
and discard the sachet. Add the concasse and sim
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
mer until the tomatoes are very hot, 10 minutes
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onion 1 tsp/B g minced garlic 2 fl o z/6 0 mL tomato paste 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry red wine V h q t/1 .4 4 L Brown Lamb Stock (page 2 6 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263), or as needed 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Demi-Glace (page 293), Jus d'Agneau Lie (page 293), Jus de Veau Lie (page 293), or Espagnole Sauce (page 294) 1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241) 8 o z/2 2 7 g carrot, tourne or oblique cut 8 o z/2 2 7 g potato, tourne or medium dice 8 o z/2 2 7 g celery, tourne or oblique cut 8 o z/2 2 7 g turnip, tourne or medium dice 8 o z/2 2 7 g white mushrooms, halved 6 o z/1 7 0 g tomato concasse
1 . Season the lamb with salt and pepper. 2 . Heat the oil in a large rondeau or brasier over me dium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the lamb carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as many sides as possible. This may have to be done in batches. Transfer the lamb to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions to the oil and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to time, until caramelized. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook until the tomato paste turns a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about l minute.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drip pings. Reduce the wine by three-quarters. Return the lamb to the pan along with any juices it may have released.
5 . Add enough stock and demi-glace to cover the lamb, along with the sachet. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat to prevent scorching. Cover the
6o6
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F I S H
rooms. Continue to stew until the lamb is tender to
more. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.
or
Lamb Khorma Makes 10 servings MARINADE 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL plain yogurt 2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper 2 ts p /4 g ground cardamom
Add just enough cashew paste to thicken the sauce, stirring to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom
P
1—*• GO l—*•
of the pan. Add water if the mixture becomes too
2
dry. Add the cream and adjust seasoning with salt
Orq
and pepper. Mix well and continue to cook until the meat is tender. Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish with the cilantro leaves.
1 tb sp /9 g garlic paste
P
3
0 -
c/i
1 tb sp /9 g ginger paste
?d
LAMB
1—*•
P
5 lb /2.27 kg lamb shoulder, cut into l'/2 -in /4 -c m cubes
Grq
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL ghee or vegetable oil
i-s
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g small-dice onion
CD
3 tb sp /1 8 g ground cumin
n i—*•
1 ts p /2 g ground cardamom r
/2
a>
tb sp /9 g ground fennel seed
in
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper 1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger 2 tb sp /1 2 g ground coriander 6 Thai chiles, minced 1 o z/2 8 g roughly chopped cilantro stems 1 lb /4 5 4 g cashews, soaked in hot water, ground to a paste 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream V 2 o z/21 g roughly chopped cilantro leaves
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade. Add
the lamb and marinate for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
2
.
Heat the ghee in a rondeau or brasier over mediumhigh heat until it shimmers. Add the onions and sweat until translucent.
3. Reduce the heat to low. In 1- to 2-minute intervals, stir in the cumin, cardamom, fennel, pepper, ginger, and coriander. When the spices are aromatic, add the chiles and cilantro stems. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Drain the marinade from the the lamb and add the lamb to the spices. Increase the heat and mix until the lamb is evenly covered with the spices. Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and cook over medium-low heat for 1 hour 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Add water if the mixture becomes too dry.
c h a p te r 20 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
607
Curried Goat with Green Papaya Salad Makes 20 servings
and the reduced cooking liquid. Bring to a simmer and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. If desired, add demi-glace. 8 . Just before service, stir in the tomatoes, half of the green onions, and the lime juice. Serve immediately
About 2 5 lb / 1 1 .3 4 kg goat, cut into prim al sections
with the green papaya salsa and garnished with the
1 o z /2 8 g salt
remaining green onions, or hold hot for service.
4 t s p /8 g ground black pepper 8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Irish Stew
2 g a l/7 .6 8 L Brown Veal Stock (page 2 6 3 ) 8 thym e sprigs
Makes 10 servings 2 habaneros, seeded and minced '/ 2
4 lb /1 .8 1 kg boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2 -in /5 -c m cubes
o z /1 4 g Curry Powder (page 3 6 9 )
D em i-G lace (page 2 9 3 ), as needed (optional) lt b s p /lO g s a lt 2 0 plum tom ato es, peeled, seeded, medium dice ’/ 2
1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g green onions, sliced
Vi in /1
ts p /1 g ground w hite pepper
cm thick 2 q t/1 .9 2 L W h ite B eef Stock (page 2 6 3 )
7 f l o z /2 1 0 mL lime juice 1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 2 4 1 ) 4 0 fl o z /1 .2 0 L Green Papaya Salad (page 9 2 1 ) 1 lb /4 5 4 g pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1. Season the goat with salt and pepper.
1 lb /4 5 4 g large-dice potatoes
2 . Heat some of the oil in a brasier over medium-high
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice celery
heat until it starts to shimmer. Working in batches,
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrots
place the goat pieces carefully in the oil and sear
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice parsnips
until deep brown on all sides. Transfer to hotel pans
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice turnips
and reserve.
3. Once all the goat pieces have been seared, return them to the brasier along with any juices they may have released. Add the stock and thyme and adjust
1. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.
seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle
2 . Heat the stock in a medium stockpot to a simmer
simmer over medium-low heat. Cover the pot and
and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
transfer it to a 350°F/i77°C oven. Braise the goat un
Place the lamb in a second medium pot and pour the
til very tender, at least 2 and up to 3 hours.
heated stock over it. Bring to a simmer, stirring from
4 . Transfer the goat to hotel pans or other holding con tainers and moisten with some of the cooking liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
5. Simmer the cooking liquid until it has reduced by half. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain. Hold hot for service. 6 . Shred the goat meat into large pieces and discard the bones.
7. Heat some of the oil in a large rondeau over mediumhigh heat. Add the habaneros and sweat until soft and aromatic. Add the shredded goat, curry powder,
6o8
2 tb s p /6 g chopped parsley
M E A T S , POULTRY, FIS H, A N D S H E L L F I S H
time to time and skimming as necessary to remove impurities. Simmer for 1 hour.
3. Add the bouquet garni, onions, potatoes, celery, car rots, parsnips, and turnips. Continue to simmer until the lamb and vegetables are tender to the bite, 30 to 45 minutes more.
4 . Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish with the parsley.
Makes 10 servings
1. Season the lamb and chicken with salt and pepper. 2 . Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in the lower part of a couscoussiere over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer. Place the lamb carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on as many sides as possible.
2 lb /9 0 7 g boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into l- in /3 -c m cubes 3 lb /1 .3 6 kg bone-in, skinless chicken legs, thighs, and drum sticks, separated 1 t b s p /lO g s a lt
V/ 2
t s p /3 g ground black pepper
3. Add the onions, garlic, ginger, and spices. Add enough stock to cover the lamb. Bring the stock to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes.
4. Add the carrots, turnips, and chicken to the stew and return to a simmer over low heat. Skim and degrease as necessary.
4 f I o z /1 2 0 mL olive oil
5. Line the top of the couscoussiere with rinsed cheese
8 o z /2 2 7 g diced onion
cloth and add the couscous. Cover and continue to
3/ t o z /2 1 g minced garlic
cook for another 30 minutes.
1 tb s p /9 g g rated ginger '/ 2
o z /1 4 g ground cumin
Vi o z /1 4
6 . Remove the top of the couscoussiere, adjust season ing of the couscous with salt, and add the remaining 2 fl oz/6o mL of oil, working to break up any clumps.
g ground turm eric
1 ts p /2 g ground coriander V 2 ts p /1 g ground nutm eg 2 bay leaves Pinch saffro n threads Pinch ground cloves
Hold hot while finishing the stew.
7. Add the zucchini and green peppers to the stew and
braising and stewing recipes
Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew
cook for 4 minutes. 8 . Add the chickpeas, lima beans, tomatoes, artichoke bottoms, and truffles, if using, and simmer the stew until all of the ingredients are tender and very hot. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and spices, if nec
2Vi q t/2 .4 0
L Brown Lamb S to ck (page 2 6 4 ) or Brown Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3 )
8 o z /2 2 7 g large-dice carrot
essary.
9 . Mound the couscous on a heated plate or platter and place the stew in the center of the mound. Scatter
4 o z /1 13 g large-dice turnip
with the almonds, raisins, droplets of harissa, and
1 lb /4 5 4 g couscous
parsley. Serve immediately.
8 o z /2 2 7 g sm all-dice zucchini 8 o z /2 2 7 g sm all-dice green pepper 4 o z /1 1 3 g cooked chickpeas 2 o z /5 7 g cooked lima beans 1 lb /4 5 4 g tom ato es, peeled and cut into wedges 6 o z /1 7 0 g raw artichoke bottom s, quartered 4 o z /1 1 3 g Arabic w hite tru ffle s , sliced (optional)
GARNISH 6 o z /1 7 0 g sliced almonds, to a s te d 6 o z /1 7 0 g raisins or currants 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Harissa (page 9 5 9 )
V2 o z /1 4
g chopped parsley
c h a p te r 2 0 » B R A IS IN G A N D S T EW IN G
609
Preserved Lemons
Makes 10 servings
Makes 6 lemons
5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg each), cut into 6 pieces each 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt l
’/2
6 lemons 5 o z /1 4 2 g s a lt 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
ts p /3 g ground black pepper
2 f I o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 . Wash the lemons very well. Cut each one in 6
30 cipollini onions, blanched and peeled
wedges lengthwise and remove all the seeds. Place
' / 2-in /l-c m piece ginger, thinly sliced
the lemon wedges in a very clean jar. Add the salt
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 ts p /2 g cumin seeds, toasted and ground
and lemon juice and mix well. Add more lemon juice if necessary to just cover the lemons.
2 . Cover with a lid and refrigerate. Stir the lemons
V* ts p /0 .2 0 g saffron
every day or two to help dissolve the salt. Allow the
8 to 10 f I o z/2 4 0 to 30 0 mL water or Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
lemons to cure for at least 1 week.
50 picholine olives
3 . Rinse under cold water before using as needed. Keep refrigerated.
2 Preserved Lemons (recipe follows), chopped
braising and stewing recipes
Chicken Tagine
2 fl o z/1 2 g chopped parsley
1 . Season the chicken with salt and pepper.
2-. Heat the oil in enough pans (tagine, rondeau, or brasier) to hold the chicken over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the chicken pieces carefully in the oil and saute until they turn golden brown on all sides. Transfer the chicken to a hotel pan and reserve.
3 . Add the onions to the oil and cook, stirring from time to time, until golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and toast until aromatic, 1 minute more. Add the cumin and saffron and cook until the mixture turns a deeper color and gives off a sweet aroma, about 1 minute.
4 . Return the chicken to the pan along with any juices it may have released and add the water or stock. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle sim mer over medium-low heat. Cover and braise until the chicken is cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes, turning the pieces occasionally to keep them evenly moist ened. (Maintain only a small amount of water or stock so the braising liquid will become concentrated.)
5 . In the last 15 minutes, add the olives, lemons, and parsley. Simmer the mixture until the olives are ten der and the aroma of the lemons is apparent. 6 . Remove the lemons and serve the tagine immedi ately or hold hot for service.
chapter 20 » B R A I S IN G A N D STEW IN G
611
Chicken Fricassee
8 . Return the chicken to the sauce, along with the carrots and leeks. Simmer until the vegetables are
M akes 10 servings
tender, about 2 minutes. 5 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each), cut into 8 pieces each
9 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service. Garnish with the chives.
lt b s p /lO g s a lt ]A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper 2 f I o z/6 0 mL clarif ied butter or vegetable oil
Veal Fricassee: S ubstitute an equal amount o f boneless veal shoulder, breast, or leg meat fo r the chicken.
1 lb /4 5 4 g diced onions 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 2 o z/5 7 g all-purpose flour 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 2 bay leaves 1 tb sp /3 g thyme leaves
Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya) M akes 10 servings
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice carrots, blanched
3 chickens (2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg each), cut into 8 pieces each
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice leeks, white and light green parts, blanched
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
V i o z/1 4 g chopped parsley or minced chives
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground black pepper 2 f I o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 . Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. 2 . Heat the butter in a large rondeau or brasier over
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), deveined, with shells on
medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic to
12 o z/3 4 0 g small-dice onions
the pan and cook on medium-low heat, stirring
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g plum tomatoes, chopped
from time to time, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the flour and cook, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes.
4 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drippings. Add the stock, bay leaves, and thyme
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Pernod PICADA V A o z/3 5 g minced garlic
and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken pieces to the pot.
5 . Cover the pot and cook the chicken over medium-
o z/1 4 g toasted French bread
2 V i o z/71 g Mexican chocolate
low heat, until fork-tender and cooked through, 30
1 o z/2 8 g blanched almonds, roasted
to 40 minutes. (Alternatively, the chicken can be
1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley
cooked in a 325°F/i63°C oven.) 6 . Transfer the chicken to a hotel pan or other hold ing container and moisten with some of the cook ing liquid. Hold warm while finishing the sauce.
7 . Add the cream to the remaining cooking liquid and simmer until the sauce has thickened slightly, 5 to 7 minutes. Skim thoroughly to degrease the sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain.
612
'/ 2
M EAT S, POULTRY, FISH, A N D S H E L L F IS H
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 . Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. 2 . Heat the oil in a medium rondeau or brasier over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the
6 . Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat.
they turn golden brown on all sides. Transfer the
Cover the pot and cook the chicken until fork-
chicken to a hotel pan and reserve.
tender and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes.
3 . In the same pan, saute the shrimp in their shells until bright red, about 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to another hotel pan and reserve.
4 . Degrease the pan, if necessary. Add the onions and tomatoes to the oil and cook, stirring from time
7 . Add the Pernod and continue simmering for 10 minutes more. Add the shrimp and finish cooking, about 2 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. 8 . To make the picada, crush or grind the garlic,
to time, until softened and slightly rust colored,
bread, chocolate, and almonds until smooth. Add
about 15 minutes.
the parsley and combine well. Season with salt and
5 . Add the wine to the pan, stirring to release any drippings. Reduce by half. Return the chicken pieces to the pan along with any juices they may have released. Add enough stock to cover the chicken.
pepper. Add enough oil to barely cover the picada and work it into a thick paste.
9 . Stir the picada into the stew and cook for 2 min utes more.
10 . Serve the stew immediately or hold hot for service.
braising and stewing recipes
chicken pieces carefully in the oil and saute until
vegetables, pc legumes, and pa:
atoes, grains and a and dumplings
From trimming and peeling to slicing and dicing, many vegetables and mm
Mm
herbs need advance preparation before they are ready to serve or use as an ingredient in a cooked dish. Various knife cuts are used to shape vegetables and herbs. A thorough mastery of knife skills includes the ability to prepare vegetables and herbs properly for cutting, to use a variety of cutting tools, and t&make cuts that are u n i f o r m ^ ip r e c i s e
R
eg a r d le s s of the v e g e t a b le s
being p r ep a r e d
,
a lw a y s co nsider m akin g the cuts a unifo rm
S I Z E T O E N S U R E E V E N D O N E N E S S IN C O O K I N G . A E S T H E T I C A L L Y A P P E A L I N G P L A T E P R E S E N T A T I O N S A R E A L S O V E R Y D E P E N D E N T ON TH E U S E OF P R O P E R L Y P R E P A R E D V E G E T A B L E S AN D ST AR CH E S . T h e BEST D I S H E S B EG I N WI TH T H E B E S T - Q . U A L I T Y P R O D U C E .
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs Review the in fo rm a tio n ab ou t purchasing and handling produce fo u n d in C hapter 8 . Handle fre s h produce c a re fu lly to m aintain its flavo r, color, and n u tritio n a l value th ro u g h o u t all stages o f p re p a ra tio n and cooking. One key to p re servin g q u a lity in produce is to pe rfo rm all c u ttin g tasks as close as possible to cooking tim e. A n o th e r im p o rta n t fa c to r is th e a b ility to select the rig h t to o l fo r the job, and to keep th a t to o l in p ro p e r w o rkin g con dition. A stee l should be on hand whenever you are c u ttin g any fo o d to p e rio d ic a lly hone your k n ife blade as you w ork. For a review o f basic k n ife han dling, see pages 4 4 to 45. T H E B A S IC K N IF E C U T S I N C L U D E :
C hopping
M in cing
C h iffo n a d e (shre dd ing )
Julienne and b a to n n e t
D icing
Paysanne (fe rm ie re )
Diam ond (lozenge)
Rondelle, bias, oblique, o r ro ll cuts
Your aim, whenever you cu t som ething, should always be to c u t th e fo o d in to pieces o f u n ifo rm shape and size. Unevenly cu t ite m s give an im pression o f carelessness th a t can spo il th e dish's look. An even m ore im p o rta n t c o n sid e ra tio n is th a t fo o d s o f d iffe re n t sizes and shapes w o n 't cook evenly. When precise accurate kn ife cuts, such as julienne, ba tonn et, brunoise, and dices, are required, it is im p o rta n t to cut w ith a "slice" technique. The k n ife should be held firm ly w ith a balanced g rip and th e w ris t should be stable. The slicin g m otio n should move e ith e r f o r w ards o r backw ards. Do n o t press th e k n ife s tra ig h t down o r g rip th e k n ife w ith a loose w ris t, as th is could re s u lt in less accurate cuts.
618
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Peeling vegetables All fresh produce, even if it will be peeled before cutting, should be washed well.
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
I
Washing removes surface dirt and bacteria and other contaminants that might otherwise come in contact with cut surfaces by way of the knife or peeler. For the best shelf life, wash vegetables as close to preparation time as possible. Not all vegetables require peeling before cooking, but when it is neces sary, use a tool that will remove the skin evenly and neatly without taking off too much of the edible flesh. To peel a thick-skinned vegetable such as winter squash, use a chef’s knife. Chef’s knives are better for larger vegetables or those with very tough rinds, such as celeriac or winter squash. Remove fibrous or tough skins from broccoli and similar vegetables by using a paring knife or swivel-bladed peeler to trim away the skin; often it can be pulled away after the initial cut. Some vegetables and fruits have relatively thin skins or peels. Examples include carrots, parsnips, asparagus, apples, pears, and potatoes. Peel these with a swivel-bladed peeler. These peelers can be used in both directions, so that the skin or peel is removed on both the downward and upward strokes. A paring knife can be used in place of a peeler in some instances. Hold the blade’s edge at a 20-degree angle to the vegetable’s surface and shave the blade just under the surface to remove a thin layer. 1 .
Peel a th ic k -s k in n e d ve g e ta b le such as w in te r squash w ith a c h e fs
knife.
2.
Peel veg etab le s w ith re la tiv e ly th in skins or peels, such as asparagus,
ca rro ts, o r parsnips, w ith a s w ive l-b la d e d peeler.
ch a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
619
2
Chopping Coarse chopping is generally used for mirepoix or similar flavoring ingredi ents that are to be strained out of the dish and discarded. Chopping is often done with a straight, downward cutting motion. It is also appropriate when cutting vegetables that will be pureed. Trim the root and stem ends and peel the vegetables if necessary. Slice or chop through the vegetables at nearly regular intervals until the cuts are relatively uniform. This need not be a per fectly neat cut, but all the pieces should be roughly the same size. 1.
Rinse and dry herbs well, and the n s trip th e leaves fro m th e stem s.
G ather th e herbs in to a tig h t ball using you r g u id in g hand to hold the m in place, then slice th ro u g h th e m to fo rm coarse b u t u n ifo rm pieces.
2 .
Once th e herbs are coa rsely chopped, use th e fin g e rtip s o f you r g uiding
hand to hold th e tip o f th e c h e fs k n ife in c o n ta c t w ith th e c u ttin g board. Keep ing th e tip o f th e blade ag ainst th e c u ttin g board, low er th e k n ife f ir m ly and rapidly, re p e a te d ly c u ttin g th ro u g h th e herbs.
620
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Chiffonade/shredding
Mincing is a very fine cut that is suitable for many vegetables and herbs. On
The chiffonade cut is used for leafy
ions, garlic, and shallots are often minced.
vegetables and herbs. The result is
1.
or bed.
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Mincing
a fine shred, often used as a garnish Finely mince th e herbs by co n tin u in g to cut u n til th e desired fine ne ss is
For Belgian endive, remove the
atta in e d .
2.
leaves from the core and stack them. Green onions and chives are m inced d iffe re n tly . R a th er than c u ttin g
re p e a te d ly, slice th e m ve ry thin . M in cing an onion is shown on page 631.
Make parallel lengthwise cuts to pro duce a shred. For greens with large leaves, such as romaine, roll individ ual leaves into cylinders before cut ting crosswise. Stack smaller leaves, such as basil, one on top of the other, then roll them into cylinders and cut. Use a chef’s knife to make very fine, parallel cuts to produce fine shreds.
Chapter 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
621
STANDARD VEGETABLE CUTS The standard vegetable cuts are illustrated in the following charts. The dimensions indi cated are guidelines and may be modified as necessary. Determine the size of the cut by the requirements of the recipe or menu item, the nature of the vegetable being cut, the desired cooking time, and the appearance desired.
622
F IN E J U L IE N N E
J U L IE N N E /A L L U M E T T E
' / i 6 x ' / i 6 x 1 to 2 in
Va x Va x 1 to 2 in
1.50 mm x 1.50 mm x 3 to 5 cm
3 mm x 3 mm x 3 to 5 cm
BATONNET
F IN E B R U N O IS E
'/» x V* x 2 to 21/2 in
' / i 6 x ! / i6 x Vi6 in
6 mm x 6 mm x 5 to 6 cm
1 . 5 0 x 1 . 5 0 x 1 . 5 0 mm
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
side; this makes cutting safer, since the vegetable will not roll or slip as it is cut. To pro duce very regular and precise cuts, such as julienne or dice, cut a slice from each side and both ends of the vegetable to make an even rectangular solid or cube.
B R U N O IS E
S M A L L D IC E
V b x V b xV a ln
]A x ]A x !A in
3x3x3m m
6 x 6 x 6 mm
M E D IU M D IC E
L A R G E D IC E
V2 x V2 x V2 in
3/4 x 3/4 x 3A in
1 .2 5 x 1 .2 5 x 1 .2 5 cm
2 x 2 x 2 cm
C hapter 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Before chopping or cutting vegetables, trim them to remove roots, cores, stems, ribs and/or seeds. Round vegetables may also be trimmed by taking a thin slice away from one
623
AD D ITION AL VEGETABLE CUTS The vegetables shown here have been cut to precise standards for a more upscale presentation. They may be cut so that the natural shape of the vegetable is visible in each slice. Tourne cuts (see page 630) may be the classic football shape shown here or modi fied to suit different vegetable types.
PAYSANNE
V 2 x V 2 x Vs in 1 cm x 1cm x 3 mm
F E R M IE R E
LO ZENGE
Cut le ng th w ise , the n slice to desired
D iam ond shape: V 2 x V 2 x Ve in
th ickn e ss: Vs to V 2 in /3 mm x 1 cm
1 cm x 1 cm x 3 mm
RONDELLE
TO UR N E
Cut to desired thickn ess: Vs to V 2 in
A p p ro x im a te ly 2 in /5 cm long w ith 7 faces
3 mm to 1 cm
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Julienne and batonnet are long rectangular cuts. Related cuts are the standard
Dicing produces cube shapes. Dif
pommes frites and pommes pont neuf cuts (both are names for French fries) and
ferent preparations require different
the allumette (matchstick) cut. The difference between these cuts is the final size. Trim and square off the vegetable by cutting a slice to make four straight
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Julienne and batonnet
sizes of dice. The names given to the different-size dice are fine brunoise/
sides. Cut both ends to even the block off. These initial slices make it easier
brunoise, and small, medium, and
to produce even cuts. The trimmings can be used for stocks, soups, purees, or
large dice. The charts on pages 622
other preparations where the shape is not important.
to 623 list the dimensions of these cuts. To begin, trim and square the
1 .
A fte r squ aring o f f th e veg etab le , slice th e ve g e ta b le le ng th w ise , m ak
vegetable as for julienne or batonnet.
ing p a rallel cuts o f even thickn ess. 1 .
2.
S tack th e cut slices, aligning th e edges, and make even p a rallel cuts o f the
same thickn ess fo r a ba tonn et. Thinner slices in bo th d ire c tio n s make julienne.
G ather th e ju lie n n e or b a to n n e t
pieces and cu t th ro u g h them cross w ise a t evenly spaced in te rvals.
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
625
Paysanne/fermiere Cuts produced in the paysanne (peas
Diamond/lozenge
Rounds/rondelles
The diamond, or lozenge, cut is
Rounds or rondelles are simple to cut. Just cut a cylindrical vegetable,
ant) and fermiere (farmer) style are
similar to the paysanne. Instead of
generally used in dishes intended to
cutting batonnets, thinly slice the
such as a carrot or cucumber, cross
have a rustic or home-style appeal.
vegetable, then cut into strips of the
wise. Score the vegetable with a
When used for traditional regional spe
appropriate width.
channel knife to produce flower
cialties, they may be cut in such a way
Trim and thinly slice the veg
shapes, if desired. Trim and peel the
that the shape of the vegetable’s curved
etable. Cut the slices on the bias into
vegetable if necessary. Make parallel
or uneven edges is still apparent in the
strips Vs in-/3 mm-thick of the cor
slicing cuts through the vegetable at
finished cut. However, it is important
rect width. Make an initial bias cut
even intervals. Guide the vegetable
to cut them all to the same thickness so
to begin. This will leave some trim
as you are cutting by pushing on the
that they will cook evenly.
(reserve the trim for use in prepa
end of it with your thumb. The basic
Square off the vegetable first
rations that do not require a neat,
round shape can be varied by cutting
and make large batonnet, % in/2 cm
decorative cut). Continue to make
the vegetable on the bias to produce
thick. Make even parallel cuts cross
bias cuts, parallel to the first one.
an elongated or oval disk or by slic
wise at %-in/3-mm intervals to pro
ing it in half lengthwise first to cre
duce the paysanne cut. For the more
ate half-moons.
rustic fermiere presentation, cut the vegetable into halves, quarters, or eighths, depending on its size. The pieces should be roughly similar in dimension to a batonnet. Make even thin crosswise cuts at roughly Vs-in^-mm intervals.
626
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Oblique or roll
This cut is often used to prepare
This cut is used primarily with long,
vegetables for stir-fries and other
cylindrical vegetables such as pars
Asian-style dishes because it exposes
nips or carrots. Place the peeled
a greater surface area and shortens
vegetable on a cutting board. Make
cooking time. To make a diagonal
a diagonal cut to remove the stem
cut, place the peeled or trimmed veg
end. Hold the knife in the same posi
etable on the work surface. Hold the
tion and roll the vegetable a quarter
blade so that it cuts through the food
turn (90 degrees). Slice through it on
on an angle. The wider the angle, the
the same diagonal, forming a piece
more elongated the cut surface will
with two angled edges. Be sure to
be. Continue making parallel cuts,
decrease the angle of the diagonal
adjusting the angle of the blade so
as the vegetable gets larger in diam
that all the pieces are approximately
eter. This will ensure uniform cuts
the same size.
that will cook evenly. Repeat until
cutting vegetables and fresh herbs
Diagonal/bias
the entire vegetable has been cut. Alternatively, cut the vegetable using a half turn (180°) to obtain the cut pictured above.
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
627
2
Waff le/gauf rette Use a mandoline to make waffle (gaufrette) cuts. Potatoes, sweet potatoes, beets, and other large, relatively solid foods can be made into this cut. 1 .
The blades o f th e m andoline are s e t so th a t th e f ir s t pass o f th e veg
e ta b le doesn’t a c tu a lly cu t away a slice b u t only makes grooves.
2.
Turn th e p o ta to 45 degrees and make th e second pass to cre a te w a ffle
cu t p o ta to e s. Run th e ve g e ta b le th e e n tire length o f th e m andoline. Turn the veg etab le 45 degrees and re p e a t th e e n tire stro ke . Repeat th is procedure, tu rn in g th e veg etab le 45 degrees on each pass over the m andoline.
628
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1 .
Hold th e m ushroom betw een th e th u m b and fin g e rs o f you r g u id ing
hand. Remove th e o u te r layer o f th e m ushroom cap by peeling th e m ushroom .
decorative cuts using special techniques
Fluting takes some practice to master, but it makes a very attractive garnish. It is customarily used on mushrooms.
S ta rt a t th e unde rside o f th e cap, go in g to w a rd th e center.
2.
Place th e blade o f a parin g k n ife at a ve ry s lig h t angle ag ainst th e m ush
room cap center. R est th e th u m b o f your c u ttin g hand on th e m ushroom and use it to brace th e kn ife . R o ta te th e k n ife to w a rd th e base o f th e cap w hile tu rn in g the m ushroom in th e o p p o s ite d ire ctio n .
3.
Turn th e m ushroom s lig h tly and re p e a t th e c u ttin g s tep s. C ontinue u n til
th e e n tire cap is flu te d . Finish th e flu te d m ushroom by lig h tly pre ssin g th e tip o f you r pa rin g k n ife in to th e to p o f th e m ushroom to cre a te a s ta r p a tte rn . Pull away the trim m in g s. Trim aw ay th e stem .
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
629
Cutting turned/tourne vegetables
Fanning
Turning vegetables ( toumer in French) requires a series of cuts that simulta
The fan cut uses one basic, easy-to-
neously trim and shape the vegetable. The shape is similar to a small barrel
master cut to produce complicated-
or football. Peel the vegetable, if desired, and cut it into pieces of manageable
looking garnishes. It is used on both
size. Cut large round or oval vegetables, such as beets and potatoes, into quar
raw and cooked foods such as pick
ters, sixths, or eighths (depending on the size), to form pieces slightly longer
les, strawberries, peach halves, avo
than 2 in/5 cm - Cut cylindrical vegetables, such as carrots, into 2-in/5-cm pieces.
cados, zucchini, and other somewhat
1.
1.
Use a parin g o r to u rn e k n ife to cu t th e ve g e ta b le s in to manageable
pliable vegetables and fruits. Leaving th e stem end in ta ct,
pieces b e fo re to u rn e in g them . Carve th e pieces in to b a rre l o r fo o tb a ll
make a series o f p a rallel le ng th w ise
shapes. Try to make as fe w cuts as po ssib le to cre a te th e 7 sides so th a t
slices. Spread th e cu t f r u it or v eg
th e face s o f th e to u rn e rem ain d is tin c t. The face s should be sm ooth, evenly
e ta b le in to a fan shape.
spaced, and ta p e re d so th a t b o th ends are n a rrow e r than th e center.
630
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Onions of all types taste best when cut as close as possible to the time to be
1 .
used. The longer cut onions are stored, the more flavor and overall quality
lay it cu t side down on a c u ttin g
To dice o r m ince an onion half,
they lose. Once cut, onions develop a strong sulfurous odor that can spoil a
board. Use a chef's k n ife to make
dish’s aroma and appeal.
a series o f evenly spaced, pa rallel le ng th w ise cuts w ith th e tip o f the
1 .
When pe eling an onion, ta ke o f f as fe w layers as possible. Here, the
ch e f is using a parin g k n ife to rem ove th e o u te r layers o f skin.
k n ife , leaving th e ro o t end in ta ct. C uts spaced lA in/6 mm a p a rt w ill
Use a paring k nife to cut th in slices away fro m the stem and ro o t ends o f
make sm all dice; cuts spaced V 2 in/1
the bulb. Catch the peel between the pad o f your thum b and the f la t side o f your
cm o r 3A in /2 cm a p a rt w ill produce
knife blade and pull away the peel. Trim away any brown spo ts fro m underlying
m edium or large dice. Cuts spaced
layers if necessary b e fore c u ttin g the vegetable to the desired size or shape.
Vb in - /3 mm a p a rt w ill produce fin e
Leave th e onion w hole a fte r p e eling i f you need slices o r rings. To cu t onion
preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Dicing/mincing onions
Onions
ro
c/3
m ince.
rings fro m a w hole onion, be sure to hold th e onion secu rely w ith you r g u id ing hand; th e rounded surface o f th e onion can slip on th e c u ttin g board. C ut th e onion in ha lf, m aking a cu t th a t runs fro m th e ro o t end to th e stem end, in o rd e r to cu t ju lie n n e o r dice. The ro o t end, tho ugh trim m e d , is s till in ta c t. This helps to hold th e onion layers to g e th e r as it is sliced o r diced. To cut ju lie n n e fro m a halved onion, make a V -shaped notch cu t on e ith e r side o f the ro o t end. An a lte rn a tiv e p e eling m etho d is e sp ecially good f o r c u ttin g and using the onion rig h t away. Halve th e onion le n g th w ise th ro u g h th e ro o t b e fo re trim m in g and peeling. Trim th e ends, le avin g th e ro o t end in ta c t if th e onion w ill be diced, and pull away th e skin fro m each half.
Chapter 21 » M I 5 E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
631
Dicing/mincing onions, continued
2.
W hile g e n tly holding th e v e rtic a l cuts to g e th e r, make tw o or th re e h o ri
zo n ta l cuts p a ra lle l to th e w o rk surface fro m th e stem end to w a rd th e ro o t end, b u t do n o t cu t all th e w ay throu gh . H olding th e previous cuts to g e th e r w ill produce a m ore u n ifo rm mince.
3.
To co m p le te th e dice, make even, crossw ise cuts w o rkin g fro m th e stem
end up to th e ro o t end, c u ttin g th ro u g h all layers o f the onion. Reserve any us able trim f o r m ire poix. Some che fs p re fe r to cu t onions by m aking a series o f evenly spaced cuts th a t fo llo w th e n a tural curve o f th e onion. Remove the ro o t fro m th e onion be fo re m aking even cuts th a t fo llo w th e n a tural curve o f th e onion.
632
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
purchased but is best avoided unless high-volume cooking calls for its conve nience. Mashed or minced garlic is called for in many preparations, so it is important to have enough prepared to last through a service period. To prevent bacterial growth, store uncooked minced garlic covered in oil in the refrigerator and use within 24 hours. It is always best, however, to cut garlic just prior to use. To separate the garlic cloves, wrap an entire head of garlic in a side towel and press down on the top. The cloves will break cleanly away from the root
preparation techniques for specific vegetables
Depending on how it is cut, garlic may take on different flavors and like onions, once cut, will become stronger in flavor. Pre-chopped garlic can be
end, and the towel keeps the papery skin from flying around the work area. 1.
A t som e tim e s o f th e year and under ce rta in sto ra g e c o n d itio n s, the
g a rlic may begin to sp ro u t. S p lit th e clove in h a lf and rem ove th e s p ro u t fo r th e b e st flavo r. Lay th e skinned cloves on th e c u ttin g board w ith th e f la t o f th e k n ife blade over them . Using a m o tio n s im ila r to th a t f o r cracking th e skin, h it th e blade fir m ly and fo rc e fu lly w ith a f is t o r th e heel o f you r hand to crush th e cloves. An a lte rn a tiv e to sm ashing th e clove o f g a rlic in o rd e r to rem ove th e peel is to peel th e g a rlic clove w ith a pa rin g k n ife . To loosen th e skin fro m each clove, place it on th e c u ttin g board, place th e f la t side o f the k n ife blade on to p , and h it th e blade using a f is t o r th e heel o f your hand. Peel o f f th e skin and rem ove th e ro o t end and any brow n spo ts.
Slice th e peeled g a rlic cloves b e fo re chopping them .
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FR ESH HERBS
633
Garlic, continued
3.
Cut th e g a rlic slices to cre a te rou gh ly chopped garlic.
4.
M ince g a rlic cloves like you w ould m ince an onion. M ince o r chop the
Roasting garlic The flavor of garlic becomes rich, sweet, and smoky after roasting.
cloves fa irly fine , using a ro ckin g m o tio n as f o r herbs. To mash th e ga rlic, hold th e k n ife ne arly f la t ag ainst th e c u ttin g board and use th e c u ttin g edge to mash th e g a rlic ag ainst th e board. Repeat th is ste p
Roasted garlic can be found as a com ponent of vegetable or potato purees, marinades, glazes, and vinaigrettes, as well as a spread for grilled bread.
u n til th e g a rlic is mashed to a paste. If desired, sp rin kle th e g a rlic w ith s a lt
Place unpeeled heads of garlic
b e fo re m ashing. The s a lt a cts as an abrasive, speeding th e m ashing process
in a small pan or on a sizzler platter.
and p re ve n tin g th e g a rlic fro m s tic k in g to th e k n ife blade. A lte rn a tiv e ly , crush
To produce a drier texture, place the
and grind s a lt-s p rin k le d g a rlic in to a pa ste using a m o rta r and pestle.
garlic on a bed of salt. You may wrap whole heads of garlic in foil. Cut off the tip of each head beforehand to make it easier to squeeze out the roasted garlic. Or peel the cloves first, lightly oil them, and roast in a parch ment paper envelope. 1.
R oast in a 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C oven
until the garlic cloves are quite soft, usually 30 to 45 m inutes. A nyjuices th a t run fro m the garlic w ill brown. The aroma should be sw eet and pleasing w ith no hints o f harshness or sulfur. S eparate the cloves and squeeze the roasted g arlic fro m the skins or pass the unpeeled cloves through a foo d mill.
634
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
the biggest concerns when working with leeks is removing every trace of dirt. Careful rinsing is essential. 1 .
To clean leeks, rinse o f f all th e surface d irt, paying special a tte n tio n
to th e ro o ts, w here d ir t clings. Lay th e leek on th e c u ttin g board, and use a c h e fs k n ife to trim aw ay th e heavy, dark green poi tio n o f th e leaves. By c u t tin g on an angle, you can avoid losing th e te n d e r lig h t green p o rtio n o f the leek. Reserve th e da rk green p o rtio n o f th e leek to make b o uq ue t g a rni o r fo r o th e r uses.
2.
preparation techniques for specific vegetables
A leek grows in layers, trapping grit and sand between each layer, and one of
Trim away m o st o f th e ro o t end. Cut th e leek le ng th w ise in to halves,
th ird s , o r q u a rte rs. Rinse th e leek under running w a te r to rem ove any rem a in ing g r it o r sand. Cut th e leek in to th e de sire d shape. Leeks may be le ft in halves o r q u a rte rs w ith th e stem end s t ill in ta c t f o r braising. O r th e y may be c u t in to slices, c h iffo n a d e , dice, o r paysanne cuts.
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
635
Tomatoes Fresh and canned tomatoes are used in a number of dishes. They can be cut with various knives as well as sliced using an electric slicer. Tomatoes have a skin that clings tightly to the flesh, and the interior contains pockets of seeds and juice. When the tomato is peeled, seeded, and chopped, it is known as tomato concasse. The techniques for seeding and chopping or dicing can be used for both fresh and canned tomatoes. Whole or sliced tomatoes can be roasted to intensify their flavor and change their tex ture.
preparing tomato concasse Tomato concasse is required for preparation or finishing many different sauces and dishes. Only make enough in advance to last through a single service period; once peeled and chopped, tomatoes begin to lose flavor and texture. Tomatoes can be cut into different sizes, depending on their use. Fine con casse should be used for garnishing, while rough concasse can be used for all other purposes, such as an ingredient in a dish or sauce. 1.
Score an X in to the b o tto m o f each to m a to , b u t be sure not to cut to o
deeply. Remove the stem core.
2.
B ring a p o t o f w a te r to a ro llin g boil. Have an ice bath ready to shock the
to m a to e s. Drop th e to m a to e s in to th e w a te r. Blanch the to m a to e s in b o ilin g w a te r f o r 10 to 15 seconds, de pe nd ing on th e ir ripeness, the n rem ove the m and shock the m in ice w ater.
636
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Precision cuts
3.
Use a pa rin g k n ife to peel aw ay th e skin. If th e to m a to was p ro p e rly
blanched, none o f th e fle s h w ill be rem oved fro m th e to m a to e s.
4.
To prepare tomatoes so that they can be cut into precise julienne, dice, loz enge, or similar cuts, trim the tomato
Halve th e to m a to crossw ise a t its w id e s t p o in t. (Cut plum to m a to e s
flesh so that it has an even thickness.
le ng th w ise to seed the m m ore easily.) G en tly squeeze o u t th e seeds. For a
Halve or quarter the peeled tomato,
m ore pre cise cut, q u a rte r th e to m a to e s and cu t aw ay th e seeds. For a rough
cutting from stem to blossom end.
chop, sim p ly squeeze o u t th e seeds. The seeds and ju ice s o f th e to m a to may
Using the tip of a knife, cut away any
be pre serve d f o r o th e r p re p a ra tio n s.
seeds and membranes. This tech
5.
nique is sometimes referred to as fil The d e fin itio n o f a concasse calls fo r a rough chop, b u t the peeled and
seeded to m a to e s can be cut as desired.
leting. (It is also used for peppers and
preparation techniques for specific vegetables
3
chiles.) Cut the flesh into julienne or other shapes, as desired. Tomatoes prepared in this way may be used as garnish for hot items such as soups or sauces. They may also be used in cold preparations such as salads or in the production of hors d’oeuvre, where they can be used as a base or finely chopped for a colorful and flavorful garnish. Peeled and cut tomatoes will have a ten dency to weep, so when using them for cold preparations, be sure to cut and assemble as close to service as possible.
C hapter 21 » M IS E EN P L A C E FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
637
Fresh peppers and chiles Peppers and chiles are used in dishes from cuisines as diverse as those of Cen tral and South America, many Asian countries, Spain, and Hungary. As the interest in peppers and chiles has grown, many special varieties have become available, both fresh and dried. For more information about working with dried chiles, see page 645. Whenever working with very hot chiles, wear plas tic gloves to protect your skin from the irritating oils they contain.
cutting and seeding fresh peppers and chiles Cut through the pepper from top to bottom. Continue to cut it into quarters, especially if the pepper is large. Use the tip of a paring knife to cut away the stem and seeds. This cut re moves the least amount of usable pepper. Chiles retain a good deal of their heat in the seeds, ribs, and blossom ends. The degree of heat can be controlled by adjusting how much, if any, of these parts of the chile is added to a dish. 1.
You can make ve ry fine , even ju lie n n e or dice by fille tin g the p e p p e r—
th a t is, rem o ving th e seeds and rib s — b e fo re c u ttin g it. Cut away th e to p and b o tto m o f th e pe pp er to cre a te an even rectan gle. Roll th e pepper away fro m the paring k n ife as you cu t th e seeds and rib s away to cre a te a long rectan gle o f pepper th a t can be cu t as desired.
2.
Peel away th e skin, if desired, and then cu t th e fle s h in to neat ju lie n n e or
dice. For a m ore precise p re p a ra tio n , use a c h e fs k n ife to cu t away a th in layer o f th e in te rio r fle s h to make a co m p le te ly f la t surface. This w ill cre a te m ore square, u n ifo rm ju lie n n e o r dice. Reserve any ed ib le scraps to use in purees or coulis, or to fla v o r b ro th s and stew s.
638
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1 .
Peppers and chiles are o fte n charred in a flam e , b ro ile d o r g rille d , or
ro a ste d in a v e ry h o t oven to produce a deep, rich fla v o r as w e ll as to make the pe pp er ea sie r to peel. To ro a s t and peel sm all q u a n titie s o f fre s h peppers or chiles, hold th e p e pp er over a m edium fla m e o f a gas b u rne r w ith to n g s or a kitch e n fo rk , o r place th e p e pp er on a g rill. Turn th e p e pp er and ro a s t it u n til
preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Peppers and chiles are often peeled before they are used in a dish, to improve the dish’s flavor or texture, or both.
the surface is evenly charred. Place th e pepper in a p la s tic o r pa pe r bag or a covered bow l and le t stan d f o r a t le a st 30 m in utes to stea m th e skin loose.
2.
C/3
When th e p e pp er is cool enough to handle, use a pa rin g k n ife to rem ove
th e charred skin. Have a bow l o f w a te r nearby to rinse th e charred skin o f f o f your k n ife as you w o rk. To rem ove any b its o f charred skin th a t rem ain on the pepper, rub lig h tly w ith a to w e l. La rge r q u a n titie s o f p eppers o r chiles are o fte n ro a ste d in a h o t oven or under a b ro ile r, ra th e r than charred in d iv id u a lly over a flam e . Halve th e pe p pers or chiles and rem ove th e stem s, seeds, and rib s if desired. (The peppers or chiles may also be le ft whole.) Place cu t side down on an oiled she et pan. Place th e pan in a ve ry h o t oven or under a bro ile r. R oast o r b ro il u n til evenly charred. Remove fro m th e oven or b ro ile r and cover im m e d ia te ly, using an in ve rte d she et pan. L e t stan d f o r 30 m inutes to steam th e peppers and make th e skin ea sie r to rem ove.
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HER BS
639
Mushrooms
Chestnuts
Clean mushrooms just before preparing them by rinsing quickly in cool wa
To peel chestnuts using a paring
ter, only long enough to remove any dirt. Do not allow the mushrooms to
knife or chestnut knife, cut an X in
soak; they absorb liquids quickly, and an excess of moisture will cause them
the flat side of each nut just through
to deteriorate rapidly. (Some people clean mushrooms by wiping them with
the outer skin. Boil or roast the
a soft cloth or brushing them with a soft-bristled brush; this is not always
chestnuts just until the skin begins
practical in a professional kitchen.) Let the mushrooms drain and dry well on
to pull away. Work in small batches,
layers of paper towels before slicing or mincing.
keeping the chestnuts warm, pull
Cook mushrooms as soon as possible after they are cut for the best flavor,
and cut away the tough outer skin
color, and consistency in the finished dish. Avoid cutting more than needed at
and peel off the brown inner skin.
any given time.
Cooked chestnuts can be left whole,
Some mushrooms must have the stems removed. Shiitakes, for example,
pureed, sweetened, or glazed.
have very tough, woody stems; cut them away from the caps and save for stock or to flavor sauces. The stems of other mushrooms, such as white mush rooms, morels, and cepes, can usually be left intact, although a slice should be cut away from the stem end to trim dried or fibrous portions. If possible, rest the mushroom on a flat side to provide more stability as you slice through it. Holding the mushroom cap with your guiding hand, make slices through the cap and stem (if it has not been trimmed off). To cut a large amount efficiently, slice the mushrooms so that the slices are layered. Then cut across the slices at the desired thickness to create julienne strips. Turn the julienne strips so that they are parallel to the edge of the work sur face. Make crosswise cuts to mince the mushrooms for use in duxelles or other applications.
640
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Peapods
Whole ears of corn can be boiled
Snow peas and sugar snap peas both
or steamed after the husk has been
have edible pods and are typically
peeled off and the fine threads,
eaten raw, steamed, or stir-fried.
known as silk, that cling to the corn
They should be carefully selected for
have been pulled away. Once husked,
freshness as their quality and flavor
cook the corn as soon as possible.
deteriorate quickly. Their peak sea
Remove the husk and silk. To cut the kernels away from the cob,
son is early spring to summer. Snow peas and sugar snap peas,
hold the ear upright and cut down
depending upon the variety, often
ward as close to the cob as possible.
have a rather tough string that runs
To “milk” the corn, lay the ear down
along one seam. Remove this string
on a cutting board and lightly score
before cooking the peas. Snap off the
each row of kernels. Use the back of
stem end, using either a paring knife
a knife, a spoon, or a butter curler to
or your fingers, and pull. The string
scrape out the flesh and milk.
will come away easily.
c h a p te r 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Corn
641
Asparagus Young asparagus may need no further preparation than a simple trim to re move the very ends of the stalk, and a quick rinse. More mature asparagus may need to have the stalk trimmed a little more and partially peeled to re move the outer skin, which can be tough and stringy. As asparagus matures, the stalk becomes tough. To remove the woody portion, bend the stalk gently until it snaps. Use a special asparagus peeler or a swivel-bladed peeler to peel the remaining stalk partway up; this enhances palatability and also makes it easier to cook the asparagus evenly. Asparagus may be tied into loose portion-size bundles to make it easier to re move them from boiling water when they are blanched or boiled. Don’t tie them too tightly or make the bundles more than a few inches in diameter. Otherwise the asparagus in the middle will not cook properly.
642
V E G E T A B L E S . POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Artichoke leaves have sharp barbs, like thorns. The edible meat of the arti choke is found at the base of each leaf, which grows from a stem, as well as at the fleshy base of the vegetable, known as the heart. Artichokes have a purple, feathery center—the choke—that is inedible in mature artichokes. The choke in baby artichokes may be tender enough to eat. To prepare whole artichokes, first cut away part or all of the stem. The amount of stem removed is determined by how the artichoke is to be present ed, as well as by how tender or tough the stem is. Cutting away the stem even
preparation techniques for specific vegetabl
Artichokes
with the bottom of the artichoke makes a flat surface, allowing the artichoke to sit flat on the plate. If the artichoke is to be halved or quartered, some of the stem may be left intact. Peel the stem with a paring knife. Cut off the up per part of the top of the artichoke. Snip the barbs from each leaf with kitchen scissors. Rub the cut surfaces with lemon juice to prevent browning, or hold the trimmed artichoke in acidulated water (a mixture of lemon juice and wa ter) or a blanc. To remove the choke, spread open the leaves of the artichoke. The choke can now be scooped out with a spoon. 1 .
To pre pa re a rtic h o k e b o tto m s , make a cu t th ro u g h th e a rtic h o k e a t its
w id e s t p o in t, ju s t above th e a rtic h o k e b o tto m .
2.
Use a pa rin g k n ife to trim th e to u g h o u te r leaves away fro m th e a r t i
choke b o tto m .
3.
Scoop o u t th e c e n te r o f th e a rtic h o k e b o tto m , known as th e choke. Hold
trim m e d a rtich o ke b o tto m s in a cid u la te w a te r to pre ve n t brow ning.
c h a p te r 21 » M I 5 E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
643
1
Avocados Avocados have a rough, thick skin and a large pit. Avocados, like potatoes, bananas, and artichokes, turn brown when they are exposed to air. To prevent browning, cut avocados as close to the time of service as possible. Citrus juice both brightens the flavor of this rich but relatively bland food and prevents the flesh from turning brown. To remove the skin and pit from an avocado, hold it securely but gently with the fingertips of your guiding hand. Insert a knife blade into the bottom of the avocado. Turn the avocado against the knife blade to make a cut completely around it. The cut should pierce the skin and cut through the flesh up to the pit. Peel the avocado and cut it lengthwise into wedges or slices. To dice the avocado, cut crosswise through the wedges. The flesh is soft enough to puree easily when properly ripened. 1.
T w ist the tw o halves o f a sliced avocado away fro m each o th e r and pull
g e n tly to separate them .
2.
Since it can be d iff ic u lt to pick o u t th e p it w ith you r fin g e rtip s w ith o u t
m angling th e fle sh , scoop it o u t w ith a spoon, rem oving as little fle s h as pos sible, o r c a re fu lly chop th e heel o f th e k n ife in to th e p it then t w is t and pull the p it fre e fro m th e fle sh . To rem ove the p it fro m th e k n ife safe ly, use th e edge o f th e c u ttin g board or th e lip o f a c o n ta in e r to pry the p it free.
3.
To peel th e avocado, catch th e skin betw een th e ball o f your th u m b and
the f la t side o f a k n ife blade and pull it fre e fro m th e flesh.
644
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Dried veg etab le s and fr u its have alw ays been used in many cuisines. D rying makes fo o d s su ita b le f o r lo n g -te rm storag e and co n ce n tra te s th e ir fla vo rs. Even tod ay, some veg etab le s and fr u its are to o perishable to tra n s p o rt g re a t d ista n c es, o r th e y have a very s h o rt season. The re s t o f th e year, th e y can be fo u n d only in a p re served fo rm . The fla v o r o f d ried chiles, m ushroom s, to m a to e s, and fr u its such as apples, cherries, and raisins are special even though th o se same in g re d ie n ts may be purchased fre s h th ro u g h o u t th e year. To g e t th e m o st fro m these ingre die nts, recipes may o fte n call f o r the m to be rehy dra te d o r "p lum p ed” by soaking the m in a liquid. To reh ydra te dried veg etab le s and fru its , check f ir s t f o r in sect in fe s ta tio n and rem ove any obvious d e bris or seriou sly blem ished or m oldy specim ens. Place th e v eg etab le o r f r u it in a bow l o r o th e r c o n ta in e r and add enough bo ilin g or very ho t liquid (water, w ine, f r u it juice, or b ro th ) to cover. L e t th e ve g e ta b le o r f r u it stee p in the h o t w a te r f o r several m inutes, u n til s o ft and plum ped. Pour o f f th e liquid, rese rving it, if desired, f o r use in an o th e r pre pa ration . If necessary, s tra in it th ro u g h a c o ffe e f ilt e r or cheesecloth to rem ove any debris. O th er dried fr u its and veg etab le s may be to a s te d o r charred in a fla m e or on a g ridd le o r heated pan to s o fte n them . Some m ay be to a s te d and then rehydrated. Toast dried chiles in the same m anner as d ried spices, nuts, and seeds, by to s s in g them in a d ry s k ille t over m edium heat. A lte rn a tiv e ly , pass them re p e a te d ly th ro u g h a fla m e u n til to a s te d and so fte n e d . Break or c u t open the chile and shake o u t th e seeds. Scrape the pulp and seeds fro m th e skin or use th e w hole chile, according to the recipe. A fte r to a stin g , reh ydra te th e chile in a h o t liquid.
general guidelines for vegetable and herb mise en place One o f th e ways to d istin g u ish a novice fro m a seasoned che f is th e way each one approach es th e ta s k o f c u ttin g vegetables and herbs. The goal is con sisten cy and speed. W ith o u t pra ctice, it is im p ossib le to achieve either. To b e tte r approach veg etab le m ise en place, s ta r t by fig u rin g o u t the p ro p e r tim in g o f th e w ork. M ake a lis t and p rio ritiz e ta sks so th a t fo o d s th a t can be prepared w ell in ad vance are done fir s t, w h ile tho se th a t lose fla v o r or co lo r when cu t to o ea rly are done as close to service or cooking tim e as possible. M aking such a lis t involves know ledge o f the menu, o f tim e e stim a te s f o r th e meal pe rio ds ( if known) f o r which th e veg etab le s are being cut, and o f stan dard kitche n p ra ctice s f o r holding c u t vegetables. Think o u t the w o rk ca re fu lly b e fo re beginning. A ssem ble all th e to o ls needed, including
general guidelines for vegetable and herb mise en place
working with dried vegetables and fruits
con tain ers to hold unprepped vegetables, prepped vegetables, usable trim , and trim th a t is n o t useful. A ssem ble th e peelers, knives, and steel. Hone the knives (including th e paring kn ife ) at th e s ta rt and durin g th e work. Wash veg etab le s and herbs b e fo re doing any in itia l trim w o rk to avoid g e ttin g th e w ork surface unnecessarily d irty . Spin d ry le a fy greens and herbs b e fo re you cu t them .
Chapter 21 » M IS E EN PLA CE FOR V E G E T A B L E S A N D FRESH HERBS
645
Arrange th e w o rk in a logical flo w , so th a t th in g s are p o sitio n e d w ith in easy reach. This makes the w o rk easier, fa ste r, less w a ste fu l, and m ore co m fo rta b le . Keep all to o ls and your w o rk surface clean and fre e fro m debris. Remove trim as it ac cum ulates, b e fo re it has a chance to fa ll on the flo o r. W ipe down kn ife blades and c u ttin g boards betw een phases o f w ork. S anitize all c u ttin g and w o rk surfaces when you sw itch fro m one fo o d ite m to another. Wash your hands, too, and rem em ber to use gloves if the vegetables w ill n o t be cooked b e fo re being served to guests. In a d d itio n to the techniques and p re p a ra tio n s already discussed, veg etab le cookery o fte n requires know ledge o f o th e r techniques, m any o f which can be fo u n d elsewhere in th is book: P re p a rin g le a fy g reens (see pages 1 4 8 to 159) T oastin g spices, nuts, and seeds (see page 3 6 2 ) Z e s tin g c itru s fr u its and c u ttin g suprem es (see page 8 9 1 ) P re p a rin g f r u its (see pages 8 9 0 to 8 9 3 ) M arinad es (see pages 3 7 2 to 3 7 4) S ta n d a rd b re ad ing p ro ce d u re (see page 3 6 5 )
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Vegetables are far more important in contemporary menu planning than simply as a side-dish afterthought. They can be the focal part of a meatless entree. They can be selected and prepared to enhance another dish. Orthey can be served as an appetjzer or hois d’oeuvre. Buying vegetables that are at the peak of quality, observing proper storage and handling standards, and giving meticulous attention to the cooking process are vital to producing an appealing vegetable dish.
B
oiling
is a
fu n d a m e n t a l
v e g e t a b le
cooking
techn iq u e
that
can
result
in
a
w ide
range
O F T E X T U R E S A N D F L A V O R S , D E P E N D I N G U P O N H O W T H E T E C H N I Q U E IS A P P L I E D . V E G E T A B L E S M A Y BE B L A N C H E D , P A R C O O K E D OR P A R B O I L E D , OR F U L L Y C O O K E D . B O I L E D V E G E T A B L E S C A N BE S E R V E D C H I L L E D , A D D E D TO A N O T H E R D I S H S U C H A S A S T E W TO F I N I S H C O O K I N G , G L A Z E D O R F I N I S H E D IN B U T T E R O R O I L , O R U S E D TO M A K E A P U R E E . A L M O S T A L L V E G E T A B L E S C A N B E B O I L E D , A S L O N G A S T H E A P P R O P R I A T E M O D I F I C A T I O N S A R E M A D E TO T H E B O I L I N G P R O C E S S .
boiling Prepare vegetables f o r b o ilin g by p ro p e rly rin sing o r scrub bing the m to rem ove all traces o f d irt. They may be trim m e d and cu t b e fo re cooking, o r th e y may be cooked whole, a cco rd ing to th e vegetable's nature as w e ll as th e in te nd ed p re se n ta tio n . If th e veg etab le has a ten den cy to tu rn brown once it is cut and exposed to the air (as a rtich o ke s do), t r y to cut it im m e d ia te ly b e fo re cooking, or hold th e veg etab le subm erged in plain o r a cidu lated w ater. However, exte nde d storag e in w ater, once veg etab le s are peeled or cut, can rob the m o f flavo r, te x tu re , and n u tritio n a l value. V egetables boile d w hole o r cu t should be o f a sim ilar size, shape, and d ia m e te r to assure even cooking. W a te r is th e m o st com m only used liquid f o r boiling, though o th e r liquids may be used depending on th e desired fla v o r o f th e fin ish e d dish. A dd in g s a lt and o th e r seasonings to th e liquid enhances th e fla v o r o f a vegetable. A d d itio n a l fla v o r and in te re s t can be p ro vided w ith fin is h in g and ga rnishin g ingredients. D elicate green veg etab le s m ust be cooked in sm all batches in heavily sa lte d w a te r th a t should never sto p boiling, and the y m ust always be shocked in ice w a te r a fte r cooking. If cooking a large volum e o f green vegetables, cook the m in batches so th a t the w a te r te m p e rature has tim e to recover and is alw ays boiling. A dd in g s a lt to th e w a te r f o r p arcooking green veg etab le s bo osts fla v o r and helps th e w a te r come up to te m p e ra tu re fa s te r and recover fa ste r. When shocking green vegetables, shock the m in ice w a te r. D ilute th e s a lt in a sm all am ount o f w arm o r h o t w a te r and the n add to ice w ater. S elect the p o t size in re la tio n to the am ount o f fo o d being prepared. It should hold th e vegetables, liquid, and a ro m a tics c o m fo rta b ly , w ith enough room f o r th e liquid to ex pand as it heats. Leave enough headspace fo r th e surface to be skim m ed if necessary. A tig h t - f it t in g lid is h e lp fu l f o r bring ing th e liquid up to te m p e ra tu re , b u t it is n o t essential. Some green vegetables, f o r exam ple, w ill disco lo r i f le ft covered durin g th e w hole cooking process. Leaving a lid on th ro u g h o u t th e cooking process may sho rte n cooking tim e , b u t be sure to check th e veg etab le s p e rio d ic a lly to avoid ove rcoo king the m or d isco lo ra tio n . O ther useful equipm ent includes colanders or strainers fo r draining; equipm ent fo r cooling vegetables cooked in advance; holding containers to keep the vegetables warm; and spoons, ladles, or skim m ers fo r cooking, tasting, and serving. Season th e cooking liquid and b ring it to the p ro p e r coo kin g te m p e ra tu re b e fo re add ing the prepared vegetables. The am ount o f liquid req uire d varies, depending on th e typ e and a m ount o f veg etab le and th e length o f cooking tim e . In general, th e re should be enough w a te r to hold th e veg etab le s c o m fo rta b ly , w ith o u t excessive crow ding. Add s a lt and any o th e r seasonings o r a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts to th e liquid.
648
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
D
basic formula
Boiled Green Vegetables
Boiled Root Vegetables
Boiled Red or White Vegetables
(10 servings)
(10 servings)
(10 servings) 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped
vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting)
vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting)
Enough salted cold water to generously cover the vegetables in the pot and allow them to move freely (about 6:1 water to vegetable). Use 2 oz/57 g salt per gallon of water.
Enough salted cold water to generously cover the vegetables in the pot
GTQ
Enough cold water to hold the vegetables without crowding 4 fl oz/120 mL vinegar, lemon juice, or other acid per gallon of water
method at-a-glance 1. Bring the liquid to a fu ll boil and add the seasonings and aromatics.
Determining doneness
2. Add the vegetable.
is a crucial aspect of all vegetable prep
arations, but it is especially important in boiling, the most basic technique:
3. Cook it to the desired
BLANCHED: Im m e r s e v e g e ta b le s b r ie f ly , u s u a lly 3 0 s e c o n d s t o 1 m in u t e , d e
doneness.
p e n d in g o n t y p e o f v e g e ta b le a n d r ip e n e s s , in b o ilin g w a t e r t o m a k e t h e s k in e a s y t o r e m o v e , t o e lim in a t e o r r e d u c e s t r o n g o d o rs o r f la v o r s , t o s e t t h e
4 . Drain the vegetable.
c o lo r f o r s e r v in g c o ld , a n d / o r as t h e f i r s t s t e p in o t h e r c o o k in g t e c h n iq u e s .
5. Serve the vegetable, or
PARCOOKED/PARBOILED: V e g e ta b le s a re c o o k e d t o p a r t ia l d o n e n e s s t o p r e p a re
refresh and hold it.
th e m f o r f in is h in g b y g r illin g , s a u te in g , p a n fr y in g , d e e p fr y in g , o r s te w in g . TEN D ER-CRISP OR AL DENTE: C o o k v e g e ta b le s u n t il t h e y c an b e b i t t e n in t o e a s ily b u t s t i l l o f f e r a s lig h t r e s is t a n c e a n d s e n s e o f t e x t u r e . (T h e t e r m al dente, w h ic h is It a li a n f o r " t o t h e to o th ," is m o r e a c c u r a t e ly u s e d t o d e s c rib e t h e d e s ir e d d o n e n e s s o f p a s ta r a t h e r th a n v e g e ta b le s .)
a
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
649
1. bring the water to a rolling boii b e fo re adding m o st veg etab le s, exce pt dense or sta rch y ro o t vegetables. (These vegetables, such as tu rn ip s and celeriac, are s ta rte d in cold w a te r th a t is then bro u g h t to a b o il fo r even cooking.) For th e b e st co lo r in red cabbage, beets, and w h ite veg etab le s, cover th e p o t a fte r placing the m in th e b o ilin g w a te r. This helps re ta in acids th a t set th e co lo r in th e se veg etab le s. Cover the p o t when b o iling orange and ye llo w v e g e ta b le s such as c a rro ts and squash, if desired. Green veg etab le s such as bro ccoli, asparagus, or green beans, should be bo ile d uncovered to produce a good green c o lo r in th e cooked vegetable. Once th e veg etab le s are added to the pot, leave the heat on high to b rin g th e w a te r back to a rapid bo il and con tinu e to cook th e veg etab le s to th e a p p ro p ria te done ness. V egetables should be rem oved fro m th e w a te r e ith e r by dra in ing o f f th e coo kin g liq u id th ro u g h a colander or sieve or by liftin g th e veg etab le s fro m th e w a te r w ith a s p id e r or skim m er.
m eth o d in d etail
2. finish and season
th e veg etab le s now
(see Finishing and G lazing V egetables by Sauteing, page 670). They may also be ra p id ly chille d to sto p any fu rth e r, to cool th e m f o r service in a cold dish, o r to hold the m fo r la te r service. The pro ced ure fo r coo lin g vegetables, som etim es re fe rre d to as shocking or refresh in g, is as fo llo w s : A fte r you drain th e veg etab le s, subm erge the m in very cold or ice w a te r long enough to cool the m u n til th e y are th o r oughly chilled. As soon as th e y are cool, drain the m again, place the m in storag e con tain ers, cover, and re frig e ra te . V egetables should n o t be allow ed to s it in w a te r fo r ex te n d e d p e rio d s o f tim e. S ta rch y v eg etab le s w ith sta b le pigm ents, such as tu rn ip s, parsnips, o r ca rro ts , are be st cooled by sp re a d ing the m o u t in to a single layer and placin g in a cool spo t b e fo re re frig e ra tin g . Taste th e vegetable. It should have a good, fre s h fla vo r. M o s t boile d veg etab le s served hot should be tender, y e t s till hold th e ir o rig in a l shape. The c o lo r should be appealing. Green veg etab le s should be a deep or b rig h t green w ith no tra ce s o f gray o r yellow. W h ite veg etab le s should be w h ite or ivory. Red ve g e ta bles should be deeper in color; some ta ke on a purple or m agenta color, b u t n o t blue or green. Taste and eva lu ate veg etab le s if the y are held during service, and replace th e m w ith a fre s h batch as necessary du rin g service.
650
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
S
t e a m e d v e g e t a b l e s a r e c o o k e d in a v a p o r b a t h to p r o d u c e d i s h e s t h a t h a v e p u r e
f l a v o r s
. S
team in g
VEGETABLES.
A ny
sh a r e s
m a n y
sim ilarities
w ith
boiling
a s
a
cooking
V E G E T A B L E T H A T C A N BE B O I L E D C A N A L S O BE S T E A M E D .
It
,u
ndiluted
tech n iq u e
for
W O U L D BE H A R D F OR
M O S T P E O P L E TO T E L L S T E A M E D A N D B O I L E D C A R R O T S A P A R T I F T H E Y W E R E P R E S E N T E D S I D E B Y S I D E .
B ut T H E R E
ARE SOME DIFFERENCES.
steaming Since stea m ing cooks throu gh d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith steam ra th e r than liquid, some steam ed veg etab le s may be less soggy than th e same veg etab le boiled. S team ed vegetables are ge ne rally considered to have b e tte r n u tritio n a l value, as well. Prepare vegetables fo r stea m ing as you w ould fo r boiling. A ll veg etab le s should be p ro p e rly rinsed or scrubbed, peeled, trim m e d , and cu t to shape as close to th e tim e o f se r vice as reasonable. A ltho ug h th e m o st com m only used stea m ing liquid is w ater, fla v o rfu l stocks, broths, or o th e r a ro m a tic liquids are som e tim es used to replace some o r all o f th e w ater. The am ount o f liquid re q u ire d depends on how long th e veg etab le w ill ta ke to cook: th e sh o rte r the cooking tim e , th e less liquid needed. Salt, pepper, and o th e r seasonings may be com bined w ith th e veg etab le s as th e y steam or as th e y are fin ish e d f o r service. A ro m a tic vegetables, spices, herbs, o r c itru s z est can be added to th e stea m ing liquid to produce sp e c ific fla v o rs . S team ed veg etab le s may be re heated o r fin is h e d w ith fla v o rfu l oils, b u tte r, heavy cream, o r a sauce. The q u a n tity o f veg etab le s to be steam ed de te rm in e s the c o rre c t equipm ent. Small am ounts can be steam ed using an in sert. Larger q u a n titie s , o r a com b in a tio n o f vegetables th a t req uire d iffe re n t cooking tim e s, are b e tte r prepared in tie re d steam ers, pressure steam ers, or convection steam ers. It is im p o rta n t to allow enough room f o r steam to circu la te c o m p le te ly around fo o d s as the y cook to encourage even, rapid cooking. Also have on hand the to o ls needed f o r handling th e veg etab le s f o r service or f o r hold ing, and con tain ers to hold sauces, spoons, ladles, and o th e r s erving utensils.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
basic formula Steamed Vegetables (10 servings) 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed a fter trimm ing, peeling, and cutting)
Enough cooking liquid to produce steam throughout the cooking tim e (fo r a depth o f 2 to 3 in /
Seasoning to add to the vegetables and/or the cooking liquid
5 to 8 cm in the cooking vessel)
method at-a-glance expert tips
1. Bring the liquid to a fu ll boil and add the seasoning and aromatics. 2. Add the vegetable to the
steamer in a single layer.
Vegetables are flavo rful on th e ir own,
but to add ad
ditional flavor to a steamed vegetable try one or a combination o f the follow ing. Replace some or all o f the w ater with:
3. Steam the vegetable to the
desired doneness.
BROTH / VEG ETAB LE JUICES OR F R U IT JUICES SUCH AS O R ANG E, APPLE, C R A N B E R R Y /S T O C K
4. Serve the vegetable or
refresh and hold it.
Depending on the desired result, the steamingliquidcan be flavored w ith aromatic vegetables: CAR R OTS / C ELE R Y / O N IO N S
Depending on the desired result, thesteamingliquidcan be flavored w ith herbs or spices: BAY LEA F / W H O LE OR CHO PPED G A R LIC / W HOLE OR CHO PPED P A R SLEY / W H O LE OR CHO PPED T H Y M E / C O R IA N D E R / CRACKED PEPPERCORNS / C U M IN /G R A T E D GING ER
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. bring the liquid to a full boil in th e b o tto m o f a covered steam er. A rrange th e veg etab le s in a single layer on a s te a m e r in s e rt o r t ie r to allow the steam to come in to c o n ta c t w ith all sides o f th e veg etable. Add seasonings to th e veg etab le s b e fo re th e y go in to th e s te a m e r f o r th e b e st fla v o r de velopm ent. As the liq u id com es to a boil, it produces the stea m to cook the veg etab le s. Cover th e s te a m e r to b ring th e liquid to a bo il fa s te r and tra p th e stea m inside th e vessel. A dd in g seasonings to th e liquid a t th e beginning helps release th e ir fla v o rs . B e fo re p u ttin g th e s te a m e r over d ire c t heat, add any de sire d a ro m a tics or seasonings to the stea m ing liquid so th a t th e y can release th e ir fla v o r in to th e steam m ore e ffe c tiv e ly . Steam th e veg etab le s to th e desired doneness. Doneness is d e te rm in e d by how th e p a rtic u la r veg etab le w ill be handled once it is steam ed. S team ed veg etab le s may be handled in th e same w ays as boile d veg etab le s.
2. properly steamed vegetables should have good fla v o r and v ib ra n t color. Be sure to ta s te the v e g e ta b le to assess n o t only th e fla v o r b u t also th e te x tu re . The te x tu re s m ay v a ry fro m ve ry crisp (blanched veg etab le s) to te n d e r enough to puree. P ro p e rly steam ed bro ccoli, fo r exam ple, should be b rig h t green, and you should be able to pierce the stem w ith a pa rin g k n ife w ith litt le resista nce . Seasonings should enhance th e fla v o r o f th e dish. Unless th e y are m eant to be served chilled, veg eta ble s should be ve ry h o t when served to th e guest.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
653
Pan P
a n
stea m in g
-s
is
a
good
a
la
t ea m ed v e g e t a b le s are
liquid
. U
s u a l l y the
m inute
techn iq u e
prepared
liqjjid b a r e l y
for
in a c o v e r e d
s m a l l
batches
or
individual
o r d er s
.
pot with a r ela t iv e ly s m a l l a m o u n t of
co vers the v e g e t a b l e s
,
and
m o st
of the cooking
o ccu rs
BY STEAMING.
pan steaming Speed is a m ajor advantage o f th is technique. Green vegetables, such as green beans, th a t som etim es d is c o lo r when cooked in a covered pan are done qu ickly enough to retain a b rig h t color. A n o th e r advantage is th a t the cooking liquid can be reduced to make a pan sauce or glaze. Pan stea m ing is e ffe c tiv e because vegetables cook ve ry q u ickly b e fo re th e y lose sig n ific a n t flavo r, color, te x tu re , o r n u tritiv e value. To sho rte n th e to ta l am ount o f tim e the vegetables spend in th e pan, some chefs like to have th e liquid already a t a simmer. In ad d i tio n , th is p e rm its th e ch e f to ste e p the liquid w ith seasonings and a ro m a tics such as shal lo ts and ginger. This infuses th e cooking liquid and the steam fo r a m ore fla v o rfu l fin ish e d dish. Vegetables o f v irtu a lly all s o rts can be prepared by pan steam ing. Inspect the ve g e ta bles f o r q u a lity and freshness. Rinse, trim , peel, and cu t th e veg etab le as close to cooking tim e as possible f o r th e b e st fla v o r and n u tritio n . A ll cuts should be precise and uniform , to ensure even cooking and th e b e st fla v o r and te x tu re in th e fin ish e d dish. Hold cut veg etables covered and re frig e ra te d when necessary. W a te r is o fte n used to prepare pan-steam ed vegetables, b u t stocks or bro th s can be used fo r added flavo r, if desired. Check th e seasoning o f any cooking liquid and add sa lt or o th e r fla vo rin g s, including wine, f r u it juice, herbs, spices, or a ro m a tic v egetables like leeks or shallots. Sw eeteners, includ in g w h ite or brow n sugar, m aple syrup, honey, and m olasses, can be added to glaze a vegetable, if desired. If th e cooking liquid w ill be used to prepare a pan sauce, have on hand a d d itio n a l seasonings o r garnishes, thicke ne rs, cream, o r liaison, as in dica ted by th e recipe.
654
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
13
D
P
P
basic formula
Pan-Steamed Vegetables (10 portions)
cn c+ rt> Enough seasoned cooking liquid to last throughout cooking time (enough to barely cover the
Additional ingredients or preparations as specified
p
vegetables in the cooking vessel) 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming and cutting)
2
Q T Q
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Add enough cooking liquid to properly cook the vegetables. Use a tig h tfittin g lid. Check throughout cooking fo r water level and doneness. 3. Steam the vegetable to the
desired doneness. 4. If desired, remove the lid
and let the cooking liquid reduce to make a glaze or pan sauce.
e x p e rt tips To develop additional flavor,
choose well-seasoned poach
ing liquids: STOCK / F R U IT JUICES, SUCH AS A PPLE, O R ANG E, OR C R A N B E R R Y / BROTH
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add them directly to the poaching liquid to infuse flavor throughout the cook ing process. M IR E P O IX /V E G E T A B L E S /F R E S H HERBS
5. Serve the vegetable or
refresh and hold it.
chapter 22 » CO O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
655
1. pour or ladle
enough cooking liquid in to
the pan to p ro p e rly cook th e vegetables. Very dense veg eta ble s o r large cu ts w ill req uire m ore liquid than te n d e r veg etab le s or sm all cuts. For ca rro ts, add enough liquid to nearly cover th e vegetable. There may be a sm all am ount o f liquid le ft a fte r coo kin g is com p le te ; th e pan should not be allow ed to cook dry, however. Check to see th a t th e level o f the coo kin g liquid is ad equate th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e . Covering th e pan w ith a t ig h t - f it t in g lid cap tures th e steam released by th e coo k ing liquid. The steam condenses on the lid and fa lls back on to th e veg etab le s. This means th a t any fla v o rs lo s t to the cooking liquid are retained.
m eth o d in d etail 2. check the vegetables
pe rio d ica lly
w h ile th e y are coo kin g to te s t doneness and m aintain th e p ro p e r level o f heat. Pan-steam ed veg etab le s can be cooked to a range o f doneness, acco rding to th e ir in te n d e d use. They may be ve ry lig h tly blanched, parcooked, o r fu lly cooked. To check f o r p ro p e r doneness, b ite or cut in to a piece.
656
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
pan steam ing
3. remove the cover
and le t th e cooking
liquid reduce to make a pan sauce or glaze, if desired. Be fo re m aking a pan sauce, rem ove th e veg etab le s fro m the pan if th e y are d e lic a te o r if th e y m ig h t ove rcoo k b e fo re the sauce is fin is h e d . L e t th e coo kin g liquid reduce u n til fla v o rfu l, and i f necessary add a sta rch s lu rry or beurre manie to th icke n it. When th e sauce is done, add the veg eta ble s back to th e pan, and cook u n til heated through. For sugar glazes, leave th e ve g e ta b le s in the pan w h ile the coo kin g liquid reduces to fo rm a glaze. Look a t th e dish, sm ell it, and ta s te it. The veg etab le cuts should look a ttra c tiv e , u n ifo rm , and neat. The dish should sm ell ap pe aling and r e fle c t th e seasonings and f in ishing or g a rnishin g in g re d ie n ts selected . The veg etab le s should be p ro p e rly cooked and tender, fla v o rfu l, very hot, and w e ll seasoned.
ch a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
657
Th
e
intense
heat
of
g rills
an d
b ro ilers
gives
v e g e t a b le s
a
rich
,
bold
fla v o r
. The
main
R E S T R I C T I O N G O V E R N I N G W H I C H V E G E T A B L E S C A N O R C A N N O T B E B R O I L E D IS T H E I R S I Z E . E X P A N D I N G TH E RE PER TOI RE F RO M A R E L A T I V E L Y SH O RT LIST IN CLUDIN G S U M M E R SQ.UASHES, P E P PE R S, AN D SLICED ONIONS, C H E F S
HAVE
EXPERIMENTED
AND
SUCCEEDED
AT G R I L L I N G A N D
BROILING SUCH
T E N D E R V E G E T A B L E S A S H E A D S O F R A D I C C H I O TO S U C H D E N S E A N D S T U R D Y V E G E T A B L E S A S W I N T E R S Q. UAS HES .
grilling and broiling S elect p e rfe c tly fre s h veg etab le s fo r th e g rill w ith no s o fte n in g , d isco lo ra tio n , or w ilt ing. Once selected, veg etab le s should be p ro p e rly rinsed or scrubbed. Remove the peel or skin, core, and seeds, if a p p ro p ria te . V egetables should be cut in to u n ifo rm slices or o th e r shapes b e fo re g rillin g o r broiling. H ig h -m o istu re o r te n d e r vegetables can be g rille d or b ro ile d fro m the raw s ta te ; dense or s ta rch y veg etab le s may req uire pre lim in a ry cooking to assure th o ro ug h cooking. Am ong the veg etab le s th a t can be g rille d fro m th e raw s ta te are eggplant, zucchini, peppers, and m ushroom s. V egetables ty p ic a lly parcooked include fennel, sw e e t p o ta to e s, ca rro ts, and beets. Prepare the veg etab le s according to th e ty p e and desired resu lt. Rinse, trim , peel, and cu t th e m in to even pieces. Thread th e veg etab le s on skew ers, i f desired. S o ft veg etab le s and precooked hard veg etab le s may be m arinate d b rie fly (15 to 30 m inutes) b e fo re g rillin g or bro iling . Longer m a rin a tin g could re s u lt in th e vegetables ab sorb in g to o much m oistu re. If a m arinade has been used, it may be served as a sauce w ith th e cooked vegetables. O th e r possible accom panim ents include salsa, soy sauce, vin a i g re tte , o r b u tte r sauce. M a intain g rills and b ro ile rs ca re fu lly. Scour th e rods w e ll w ith a w ire g rill brush be tw een g rillin g d iffe re n t foo ds, as w e ll as a fte r each service period, to rem ove any buildup o f charred fo o d pa rticle s. W ipe o f f excess residue w ith a dry tow e l. L ig h tly o il the g rill rods b e fo re using th e g rill. Be c a re fu l n o t to use an excessive am ount as it w ill crea te excess smoke and fla re -u p , which could be dangerous and cre a te a fir e hazard. G rilled veg etab le s have a d is tin c tly charred flavo r. They usually have deeply browned e xte rio rs, som e tim es w ith m arks fro m the rods. The in te rio r is ge ne rally v e ry te n d e r w ith an intense flavo r.
658
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
grilling and broiling
D
basic formula
Grilled or Broiled Vegetables (10 servings)
Oil, marinade, or glaze (optional) Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 kg prepped
Sauce and finishing or
vegetables (weighed a fte r
garnishing ingredients
trimming, peeling, and cutting)
method at-a-glance expert tips
1. Heat the g rill or broiler. 2. Marinate the vegetable or
brush it w ith oil. 3. Grill or broil the vegetable
until it is tender and properly cooked. 4. Serve the vegetable
immediately.
To season the vegetables,
there are many options. Apply
each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking. SPIC E RUBS / M A R IN A D E S / G LAZES
To add additional flavor,
add items to the grill fire to create an
aromatic smoke, such as: H AR D W O O D C H IP S / HERB S TE M S / G R A P E V IN E T R IM M IN G S
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
659
1. place the prepared vegetable d ire c tly on th e h o t g rill or b ro ile r rods. V egetables can be seasoned w ith a m arinade p rio r to g rillin g or broiling. A llo w excess m arinade to drain fro m vegetables b e fo re coo kin g to p re ve n t fla re -u p s . If veg etab le s are not m a ri nated p rio r to cooking, season the m du rin g cooking by brushing on a lig h t co a t o f glaze o r m arinade. S a lt and p e pp er w ill n o t adhere w ell to all raw veg etables, b u t w ill to a ve g e ta b le th a t is h o t fro m th e g rill o r bro ile r. If th e veg etab le s m ig h t s tic k easily to th e rods o r fa ll throu gh , se t the m on a sizzle r p la tte r or in a hinged hand g rill. G rill o r b ro il th e veg etab le s, tu rn in g as necessary, u n til p ro p e rly cooked. Use a spatula or ton gs to tu rn over g rille d veg etab le s a fte r th e f ir s t side has been m arked or brow ned. To cre a te crossh atch m arks, give th e veg etab le s a 9 0 -d e g re e tu rn a fte r th e g rill rods have made an im p rin t; allow the rods to im p rin t again. C om plete th e cooking tim e on th e second side to produce a w e ll-b row n ed e x te rior. V egetables may be g rille d only enough to m ark and fla v o r the m b e fo re th e y are used in a n o th e r dish. Thick cuts o f h ig h -sta rch veg etab le s can be m arked on a g rill or b ro ile r and fin is h e d in th e oven if necessary.
660
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
V egetables w in t e r
are
ro a sted
s q u a s h e s
or
for
m a n y
e g g pl a n t
can
d if f e r e n t be
r o a sted
r e a s o n s to
m a k e
. Thic k-s k in n ed a
r ic hly
v e g e ta b le s
f la v o r ed
p u r e e
suc h
as
. M irepo ix
A N D O T HE R A R O M A T I C V E G E T A B L E S ARE R O A S TE D TO AD D AN E X T R A D I M E N S I O N OF F L A V O R A N D COLOR T O S T O C K S , S A U C E S , A N D O T H E R D I S H E S . T O M A T O E S O R P E P P E R S C A N BE R O A S T E D T O I N T E N S I F Y T H E I R FLAVOR AND GIV E TH E M A DRIER TEX TU RE.
roasting and baking
roasting and baking
V e g e t a b l e s c a n be r o a s t e d o r b a k e d w h o l e o r m a y be c u t to p r o d u c e a b r o w n e d e x t e r i o r .
T hick-skinne d w hole vegetables, such as some ro o t vegetables, w in te r squash, and egg plant, are w ell su ite d to ro a stin g or baking. The skins p ro te c t th e in te rio r fro m drying or scorching. R oasting is also exce lle nt f o r halved, cut, sliced, o r diced vegetables, as w ell as veg etab le s th a t m ig h t o th e rw ise be d iffic u lt to peel, such as peppers. Rinse, peel, trim , and cu t the vegetable, as necessary. To assure even cooking, cut veg etab le s in to un iform pieces. Toss th e vegetables w ith oil to p ro m o te bro w n ing and pre ve n t excessive d ryin g and scorching. M arinades can enhance fla v o r and give extra p ro te c tio n to veg etab le s as th e y cook in th e d ry heat. Add seasonings o r a ro m a tics such as salt, pepper, spice blends, or garlic. Have ready fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts (chopped herbs, plain o r fla v o re d oils, w hole or com pound b u tte r, reduced heavy cream, or a sauce) as desired or acco rding to the p a rtic u lar recipe. Have available ro a s tin g pans or she et pans th a t can hold th e vegetables w ith enough room fo r air to c ircu la te fre e ly , b u t n o t so much th a t ju ices fro m the fo o d are likely to scorch. Some vegetables can be se t on ro a stin g racks. For baked dishes, use ho tel pans o r s im ila r baking pans or dishes.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
661
basic formula Roasted or Baked Vegetables
Oil, marinade, or glaze (optional)
(10 servings)
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg prepped
Sauce and finishing or garnishing ingredients
vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting)
m eth o d at-a-glan ce ex p ert tips
1. Place the vegetable in a hot or medium oven. 2. Roast it to the desired
doneness.
Fats or other liquids
can be added to the vegetable prior to cook
ing to infuse flavor:
3. Serve, hold, or use it in a
secondary technique.
IN FU S E D O ILS / M A R IN A D E S / G LAZES
Additional ingredients
can be added to develop more flavor:
A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS / SPIC E S / GARLIC
662
f l
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
roasting and baking
1. prepare the vegetables
f o r ro a s tin g
as a p p ro p ria te by ty p e or in te n d e d use, and arrange them cu t sides down in a p re he ated baking o r ro a s tin g pan. Cut or sliced ve g e ta b le s may be seasoned w ith salt, pe p per, spices, oils, ju ices, o r m arinades. Add some liq u id to th e pan to stea m dense ve g e ta b le s and to p re ve n t them fro m becom ing o ve rly brow n or scorch in g as th e y roast. S et ve g e ta b le s on racks over th e liquid, or d ire c tly in the liquid, as p re fe rre d . Ideally, th e liquid should all evaporate to w a rd the end o f th e coo kin g process to achieve q u a lity fa c to rs c o n s is te n t w ith ro a ste d item s.
2. place the prepared vegetable in a m edium to h o t oven and ro a s t to th e de sire d done ness. Serve im m e d ia te ly, hold fo r la te r use, o r use as an in g re d ie n t in an o th e r dish. The lo ng er th e ro a s tin g tim e (a fa c to r d e te rm in e d by th e ty p e o f veg etab le , size and th ickn e ss, d ia m e te r o f th e cut, and its de nsity), th e lo w er th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e oven should be. V egetables m ay be ro a ste d on sheet pans or in ro a s tin g pans or, in some cases, d ire c tly on the oven rack to allow th e h o t a ir to circ u la te readily. G ener ally, ro a ste d ve g e ta b le s are p ro p e rly done when th e y can be pierced easily w ith th e tip o f a k n ife o r a kitch e n fo rk . Vegetables should be ro ta te d as th e y ro a s t to p ro m o te even cooking, because m o st ovens have h o t spots. The place m ent o f o th e r ite m s in th e oven could also cause un even cooking. S tir o r tu rn th e ve g e ta b le s to keep th o se on th e edge o f th e sh e e t pan fro m scorching. If th e pan was covered, rem ove th e cover o r f o il du rin g the fin a l stage o f coo kin g to develop a rich, ro a ste d fla v o r and color. Roasted ve g e ta b le s are b e st served im m e d ia te ly on heated p la te s w ith fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts as desired. If the veg etab le s m u st be held, keep the m uncovered in a w arm s p o t f o r th e s h o rte s t po ssib le tim e.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
663
PUREEING Vegetables are often boiled, steamed, or
A food mill, ricer, or sieve will remove
baked until they are soft enough to make
fibers, skin, and seeds. These tools produce
into a puree. Some are naturally soft or
purees with a rather rough texture. Food
moist enough, even when uncooked,
processors can make quite smooth purees
to make into a puree. The puree can be
from cooked or raw vegetables that have
served as is or may be used as a base for
already been trimmed, peeled, and seeded.
such dishes as vegetable timbales, custards,
Avoid pureeing starchy vegetables in a food
croquettes, or souffles. It may also be used
processor or blender, as they may develop
as an ingredient in other dishes or to flavor
a gluey texture. If the vegetable is fibrous,
or color a sauce or soup.
the processor won’t necessarily remove the
Vegetables can range in texture from
strings, so the puree will need to be pushed
coarse to very smooth. If necessary or de
through a sieve. Immersion or countertop
sired, cook the vegetables until the flesh
blenders and vertical chopping machines
is soft enough to mash easily. Cooked veg
can cut vegetables fine enough to produce
etables should be pureed while still very
a very smooth puree, though they, too, do
hot. Use a clean side towel to protect your
not remove fibers and strings from some
hands as you work.
vegetables.
Once the vegetable is roasted, clean it
A vegetable puree can be finished by
by cutting away all heavy or inedible peel,
adjusting its seasoning, adding cream or
rind, stems, and roots. Scoop or squeeze
butter, or blending it into other prepara
out seeds, if necessary. When cleaning,
tions. Or it may be cooled and stored for
remove as little edible flesh as possible.
later use. Cool hot purees over an ice bath
Break or cut the vegetable into pieces sized
before storing. Reheat cooled purees over
properly for the pureeing equipment.
gentle heat or in a bain-marie until the
Select the equipment to make the
food has reached a food-safe temperature.
puree according to the way it will be used.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
S
auteing
and
its
r elated
t e c h n iq u e
,
stir
-f
r y in g
,
m a y
be
used
as
the
pr im a ry
cooking
TECHNIQUES FOR VEG ET A B LES AS W E L L AS A LA MINUTE FINISHING TECHNIQUES. BOILED, STEAMED, O R P A N - S T E A M E D V E G E T A B L E S M A Y B E T O S S E D O R R O L L E D IN B U T T E R O V E R H I G H H E A T A S A F I N I S H I N G S T E P , O R T H E Y M A Y B E C O O K E D IN A S M A L L A M O U N T O F A F L A V O R F U L L I Q U I D , S A U C E , O R C R E A M . S
a u teed
v e g e t a b le s
have
a
distinct
fla v o r
,
prim arily
d epen d en t
upo n
the
v e g e t a b l e
,
but
A L S O I N F L U E N C E D B Y T H E C O O K I N G F A T T H A T IS C H O S E N A S W E L L A S A N Y A D D I T I O N A L F I N I S H I N G O R GARNISHI NG INGREDIENTS.
sauteing G lazing is an o th e r fin is h in g tech niq ue based upon th e sau tein g m ethod. Add a sm all am ount o f b u tte r and honey, sugar, o r m aple syrup to th e veg etab le as it reheats. The sug ars liq u e fy and may caram elize, co a tin g the veg etab le evenly to give it some flavo r, sheen, and a golden color. Rinse, trim , and peel the raw veg etab le and cu t it in to the desired shape. Arugula, s p in ach and o th e r le a fy greens, m ushroom s, sum m er squashes, and onions may be sauteed or s tir -frie d fro m th e raw sta te . T horoughly drain greens and o th e r veg etab le s th a t can hold excess m o istu re . This im p o rta n t s te p assures th e b e st flavo r, te x tu re , and co lo r in th e f in ished dish. Some veg etab le s w ill not cook c o m p le te ly when sauteed unless th e y are parcooked by a separate m ethod fir s t. In th is case, ju s t fin is h th e veg etab le s by the sau tein g m ethod. If necessary, p a rtia lly o r w h olly cook th e veg etab le by boiling, steam ing, o r ro a stin g it firs t. S e le ct a cooking f a t to com p le m e nt th e fla v o r o f th e v egetable. Oils such as olive, pea nut, canola, corn, or s a fflo w e r can be used, as w ell as w hole o r c la rifie d b u tte r o r rendered anim al fa t (lard, duck fa t, o r bacon). O ptio nal seasonings and a ro m a tics (salt, pepper, and lem on ju ice ) can ad ju st o r heighten th e fla vo r. Finely mince o r chop fre s h herbs and add the m a t th e la st m om ent. Take th e q u a n tity o f fo o d to be sauteed in to account when se le ctin g th e pan. It needs to be large enough to avoid overcrow ding; if to o much is p u t in th e pan, th e te m p e ra tu re w ill drop to o quickly. On th e o th e r hand, to avoid scorching, th e pan m ust n o t be to o large. C ertain m a te ria ls are b e tte r a t c on du cting heat w ith quick re a ctio n to changes in te m p e ra tu re ; o th e rs o ffe r a m ore co n sta n t heat and do n o t re a ct as quickly. There are b e n e fits to b o th typ e s o f pan, and you w ill learn qu ickly which pan w o rks b e st in w hich s itu a tio n and w ith which fo o d . Use o ffs e t spatulas, tongs, o r s tir-fr y in g to o ls to tu rn and l i f t vegetables as th e y saute.
Chapter 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
b asic fo rm u la for sau tein g v egetables Sauteed Vegetables (10 servings) 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, cutting, and blanching or parcooking; however, leafy green vegetables lose
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
about half their weight in moisture during sauteing, so begin with 4
Sauce and finishing or
lb/1.81 kg to prepare 10 servings)
garnishing ingredients Small amount of oil or other cooking fat
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Heat the pan; heat the cooking medium in it. 2 . Add the vegetable. 3. Saute the vegetable,
keeping it in motion. 4. Add the aromatics,
When vegetables are fu lly or partially cooked by steaming, broiling, or roasting, they can be sauteed just long enough to reheat them or complete cooking them—a technique known as finishing. Whole butter is a common choice for finishing vegetables, but other flavorful cooking fats can be used to give a specific flavor to the dish: E X T R A -V IR G IN O L IV E O IL / IN FU S E D O ILS / R END ER ED BACON OR DUCK FAT
seasonings, or glaze and heat thoroughly.
Vegetables can also be cooked
Serve the vegetable immediately.
just enough liquid to coat the vegetables, such as:
inasmaii amount of liquid
using the technique known as sweating, which is similar to sauteing but with
H E A V Y C REA M / STOCK / BROTH / SAUCE
I f d e s i r e d , glazes can be sweetened to heighten the flavor or combat bitterness in the vegetable: S U G A R /H O N E Y /S Y R U P
Additional ingredients or garnishes
may be added to
increase flavor. These ingredients may be added once the cooking medium is heated through or at the end of cooking, depending on the desired result. G A R LIC / FRESH HERBS / GRATED GING ER
Heat the cooking fat,
cream, or sauce over medium heat. Add the
prepared vegetables to the pan without crowding and stir, toss, or turn them until they are very hot and evenly coated. Taste them for proper doneness and seasoning, and serve at once.
For a healthier option:
Use healthier fats, such as olive oil, to
saute the vegetables.
666
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
C/3 P
1. add the prepared vegetables
c
to
r+
o>> i—•«
th e fa t and sw eated a ro m a tics in th e pan. Use only enough
2
oil o r f a t to keep th e pan lu b ric a te d and p re ve n t th e vege ta b le fro m burning. The coo kin g m edium should be h o t b u t
O rq
no t hazy o r sm oking. V egetables re q u ire less intense heat than m eat, p o u ltry , and fish . Some ve g e ta b le sautes begin by coo kin g a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts in th e o il to add fla v o r to th e fin is h e d dish. If m ore than one ty p e o f ve g e ta b le is being cooked, add th e ve g e ta b le s in sequence, s ta rtin g w ith th o se th a t req uire th e lo n g e st co o kin g tim e and ending w ith tho se th a t re q u ire th e least. Do n o t ove rcrow d th e pan. For m o st v eg etab le s, add only enough to make a re la tiv e ly th in layer in the pan. L e a fy greens can be m ounded lo ose ly in th e pan, as the y lose volum e q u ickly w h ile sauteing. Add seasonings and con tinu e to saute u n til th e veg e ta b le s are fu lly cooked and fla v o rfu l. A dd in g s a lt to o e a rly in th e process can p re m a tu re ly draw o u t m o istu re fro m th e ve g e ta b le s and in h ib it th e saute process. Some veg etab le s m u st be k e p t in ne arly co n s ta n t m o tio n as the y saute; o th e rs develop a b e tte r fla v o r and co lo r when tu rn e d only once o r tw ice . Use o ffs e t spatulas, ton gs, or s tir- fr y in g to o ls to tu rn and l i f t veg etab le s as th e y saute.
2. as vegetables saute, th e y w ilt or s o fte n and th e ir c o lo r in te n s ifie s . Each com p on ent o f a sauteed ve g e ta b le dish should be cooked u n til done, very hot, and w e ll seasoned. Be sure to check th e te m p e ra tu re and seasoning o f ve g e ta b le s th a t are held fo r service in a stea m ta b le o r o th e r h o ld ing device. See page 6 7 0 f o r a d d itio n a l in fo rm a tio n on fin is h in g veg etab le s by sauteing.
ch a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
667
b asic fo rm u la for stir-fryin g v egetables Stir-Fried Vegetables (10 portions) 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting)
smaii amount of oil or other cooking fat
Sauce or ingredients to make sauce (optional)
ga|t pepper anc| other seasonings
m eth o d at-a-glan ce j. Heat the pan; heat the cooking medium in it.
Additional ingredients
can be added to develop more flavor:
A R O M A T IC VEG E TAB LE S / FRESH HERBS / S P IC E S / GARLIC
2. Add aromatics. Add the
vegetable. 3. S tir-fry the vegetable,
keeping it in motion. Move the f ir s t vegetable up the side o f the wok before adding more vegetables.
Liquids or sauces
can be used to finish the stir-fried vegetables
and to develop more flavor: BROTH / G L A ZE S / PREPARED SAUCES
4. Add the aromatics,
seasonings, or glaze and heat thoroughly. 5. Serve the vegetable
immediately.
668
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. heat the wok b e fo re adding th e o il by la d ling it around th e up pe r edge o f th e pan. Once th e o il in th e b o tto m o f th e pan is hot, add th e a ro m a tics to release th e ir fla v o rs . To s t ir - f r y a c o m b in a tio n o f v eg etab le s, add th e cu t v eg etab le s in sequence, s ta rtin g w ith th e veg e ta b le s th a t ta k e th e lo n g e st to cook, such as c a rro ts and b ro ccoli. Keep th e ve g e ta b le s in c o n s ta n t m otion.
2. as the vegetables become hot, push the m up o n to th e sides o f th e wok. This allow s the w ok to recover its heat b e fo re you make th e next a d d itio n o f vegetables. Continue adding the veg etab le s to the cen te r o f the w ok and con tinu e to s tir - fr y u n til each ad d itio n is very hot. A dd veg etab le s like zucchini and y e llo w squash a t th e m id p o in t o f coo kin g tim e and ve ry te n d e r in g re d i ents like green onions o r fre s h herbs a t th e la s t m om ent.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
669
3. a properly prepared veg etab le s tirfr y has a co m b in a tio n o f fla v o rs , te x tu re s , and colors. Some ve g e ta b le s m ay becom e ve ry te n d e r (eggplant or zucchini, f o r instance), w h ile o th e rs should have an a lm o st crisp te x tu re . A v a rie ty o f seasonings and fla v o rin g s can be added to th e fin is h e d s tir-fr y . Serve veg etab le s tirfrie s very hot, d ire c tly fro m th e wok.
FINISHING AND GLAZING VEGETABLES BY SAUTEING When vegetables are fully or partially cooked by steaming, boiling, or roasting, they can be sauteed
Heat the cooking fat, cream, or sauce over me dium to medium-high heat. Add a small amount
just long enough to reheat them or to complete
of sugar, honey, or other syrup to produce a sweet
cooking them—a technique known as finishing.
glaze, if desired. Garnishes may be added now or
Whole butter is a common choice for finishing vegetables, but other flavorful cooking fats, such
after the vegetables are heated through. Add the prepared vegetables to the pan with
as extra-virgin olive oil, infused oils, or rendered
out crowding and stir, toss, or turn them until they
bacon, are also used to give a specific flavor to the
are very hot and evenly coated. Taste them for
dish. Vegetables may also be finished in a small
proper doneness and seasoning, and serve at once.
amount of heavy cream or a sauce, usually just enough to cling to the vegetables.
670
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
id p Pa n - f r ie d v e g e t a b l e s h a v e a s a t is f y in g , c r is p e x t e r io r t h a t p r o v id e s a p l e a s in g c o n t r a s t to
th e
m o is t
, f l a v o r f u l in t e r io r . Pa n f r y in g
is
s im il a r
to
s a u t e in g
; t h e m a in
A R E T H A T IN P A N F R Y I N G , T H E A M O U N T O F O I L U S E D A S A C O O K I N G M E D I U M
d if f e r e n c e s
M -j
IS G R E A T E R T H A N F O R
S A U T E I N G A N D T H E C O O K I N G T E M P E R A T U R E IS G E N E R A L L Y L O W E R . A L S O , A N Y S A U C E S E R V E D W I T H P A N - F R I E D V E G E T A B L E S IS M A D E S E P A R A T E L Y . T h e V E G E T A B L E S M A Y BE B R E A D E D O R C O A T E D W I T H
I—*•
P
QTQ
FLO U R OR A BATTER.
pan frying Rinse, peel, trim , and cut th e vegetable. W holly o r p a rtia lly cook th e vegetable, if neces sary. Bread it w ith a stan dard breading, o r c o a t it w ith flo u r o r b a tte r. C la rifie d b u tte r, m o st veg etab le oils, shortening, and rendered anim al fa t (duck fa t or lard) can all be used fo r pan fryin g . The cooking fa t should com e ab o u t ha lfw a y up th e veg eta ble s in th e pan. A ro m a tics and seasonings may be added to th e veg etab le b e fo re o r a fte r cooking, or the y may be included in the breading or b a tte r, if a p p ro p ria te . In a d d itio n , a recipe may call fo r fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts such as a com pound b u tte r, sauce, relish, o r salsa. The pan m ust be large enough to avoid overcrow ding. If th e pan is crow ded, the o il te m p e ra tu re w ill drop quickly, m o istu re w ill accum ulate, and a good seal w ill n o t fo rm . If th is happens, th e veg etab le may absorb th e o il and th e breading can becom e soggy or even fa ll aw ay in places. Use tongs, a skim m er, o r a sp id e r to rem ove th e veg etab le s fro m th e pan. Have a pan o r p la tte r lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t excess f a t fro m th e veg etab le s b e fore service.
chapter 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
671
Q basic formula Pan-Fried Vegetables
Coating ingredients such as flour,
Sauce and finishing or
(10 portions)
cornmeal, egg wash, standard breading, or batter (optional)
garnishing ingredients
2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting),
Oil or other cooking fat
raw, blanched, parcooked, or fully cooked, as necessary
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
m eth o d at-a-glan ce ex p ert tips
1. Heat th e cooking medium.
f l
2. Add th e vegetable. 3. Cook until its e x te rio r is ligh tly browned and crisp. 4. Blot on paper towels.
Depending on the desired result, different crusts canbe achieved with different coatings. These coatings include: BATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / C O R N M E A L / FLOUR
5. Season and serve immediately.
To develop additional flavor,
season the vegetables prior
to pan frying. These seasoning ingredients can also be added to the coating or batter that will be used to cover the vegetable: FRESH HERBS / D R IED SPIC ES
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. heat the cooking fat inaheavygauge saute pan, rondeau, o r brasier. Pan fry in g req uire s m edium to high heat. When th e coo kin g fa t appears hazy I—*•
or shim m ering, it is h o t enough. M o n ito r th e heat o f the fa t to keep it even th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e . The s h o rte r
CTQ
th e necessary co o kin g tim e , th e higher th e heat may be. For rapid coo kin g and f o r th e b e st color, avoid crow ding th e veg etab le s in th e pan. Add th e veg etab le s gradually; to o many veg etab le s added a t once w ill low er th e cooking te m p e ra tu re . O vercrow din g also causes th e co a tin g to pull away fro m th e veg etab le . Cook th e ve g e ta b le s over m edium to high heat u n til th e f ir s t side becom es lig h tly brow ned and crisp. Turn the m and co m p le te coo kin g on th e second side. Remove the ve g e ta b le s and b lo t th e m b rie fly on paper to w e ls to absorb any excess fa t. Season w ith s a lt and p e pp er away fro m th e coo kin g fa t, to help th e f a t la s t th ro u g h succes sive batches. S kim away any b its o f co a tin g fro m th e fa t b e fo re adding th e n e xt batch. P a n -frie d veg etab le s m ust be served rig h t away. P ro p e rly p a n -frie d veg etab le s have a golden or brown, crisp e xte rio r, w ith th e in te rio r te n d e r to th e b ite and very hot. Any co a tin g is crisp and light.
chapter 22 » CO O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
673
P
erfec tly
AND
fried v e g e t a b le s a re
FLAVORS
ENTREES. W
hen
TO
SHOWCASE
light and s a v o r y
IN A P P E T I Z E R S ,
SIDE
,
and
o ffer the chef a r an g e of t ex t u r es
DISHES,
GARNISHES,
ACCOMPANIMENTS,
AND
V E G E T A B L E S A R E D E E P FRI ED, T H E R E S U L T S C A N R A N G E F R O M CRISP, F R A G I L E CHI PS
TO H E A R T Y C R O Q U E T T E S . T E M P U R A - S T Y L E D E E P F R Y I N G P A I R S F R E S H V E G E T A B L E S W I T H A L I G H T BATTER. ( F O R F R E N C H - F R I E D POTATOES, S E E PAGE
74 7.)
deep frying Choose fre s h and fla v o rfu l vegetables and prepare them f o r fry in g according to th e rec ipe's req uire m en ts o r th e intended style o f service. A ll vegetables m ust be tho ro ug hly rinsed, and in some cases scrubbed. Trim away tough o r inedible skins, peels, cores, seeds, and roo ts. Cut o r slice as required. C ertain vegetables should be parcooked b e fo re frying . For veg etab le f r it te r s or cro q u e tte s, dice, mince, or puree veg etab le s and use an ap p ro p ria te bind er to hold the m to g e th e r in a b a tte r. O ptio ns include heavy becham el o r ve loute, heavy cream, fre s h cheeses, eggs, and bread crum bs. Some frie d v eg etab le pre pa ra tio n s call f o r a sta n d a rd breading (see page 3 6 5 ) or b a tte r. The b a tte r should be applied ju s t b e fo re th e v eg etab le is frie d . Choose oils and o th e r cooking fa ts f o r fry in g th a t can reach a high te m p e ra tu re w ith o u t sm oking or breaking down. V egetable oils, including corn, canola, and s a fflo w e r, have n e utral fla v o rs and high sm oke points. Special oils may be used f o r a sp e c ific flavo r. Olive oil or rendered duck or goose fa t may be ap p ro p ria te . Use e ith e r a fry in g k e ttle or deep fryer. E le ctric or gas deep fry e rs m aintain an even te m p e ra tu re th ro u g h o u t cooking tim e and are e ffic ie n t fo r menus th a t produce large quan titie s o f frie d vegetables and o th e r frie d dishes. Use baskets to low er some frie d item s in to the o il and to rem ove the m once cooked. For o th e r frie d foo ds, use ton gs to add the vegetables to th e fry in g fa t and a spide r o r skim m e r to rem ove them . This is known as the sw im m ing m ethod. Prepare a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t frie d fo o d s im m e d ia te ly a fte r th e y c om p le te cooking.
674
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Q (D
(D
T3 Deep-Fried Vegetables (10 servings) 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting),
i-i Coating ingredients, such as flour, egg wash, standard breading, or batter (optional)
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings i—*< Sauce and finishing or garnishing ingredients
Enough oil or other cooking fat to
P
GTQ
completely submerge the vegetable
raw, blanched, parcooked, or fully cooked, as necessary
m eth o d at-a-glan ce ex p ert tips
Coat the vegetable with breading or batter. 2. Heat the oil in a deep fry e r
and add the vegetable.
Depending on the desired result, different crustscanbe achieved with different coatings. These coatings include:
3. Fry the vegetable until
evenly browned or golden. 4. Remove it from the oil and
blo t on paper towels. 5. Season the vegetables and
B ATTERS / BREAD C R U M B S / FLOUR
To develop additional flavor,
season the vegetable prior to
deep frying. These seasoning ingredients can also be added to the coating or batter that will be used to cover the vegetable:
serve immediately. FRESH HERBS / D RIED SPIC E S
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
675
1. heat the oil in a deep fryer or k e ttle . The b e st te m p e ra tu re f o r deep fry in g m o st veg eta b le s is ab ou t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C . Low er breaded vegetables in to th e oil using a basket. Be sure to leave room betw een la rg e r pieces to p re ve n t the m fro m s tic k in g to each other, and do n o t ove rcrow d th e basket. B a tte r-c o a te d veg e ta b le s should be dipp ed in to th e b a tte r (in some cases, th e y should be d u sted w ith flo u r b e fo re th e y are coa ted in b a tte r) using to n g s o r a spider, the n im m e d ia te ly lowered in to th e h o t oil. A dd in g th e vegetables w ill low er the te m p e ra tu re o f th e oil fo r a tim e (th is is known as recovery time), so adjust th e size o f the batches added to sho rte n recovery tim e.
2. fry the vegetables
u n til fu lly cooked.
Remove and drain. Season if necessary. F rying tim e s vary a cco rding to th e ty p e o f veg etab le . The veg etab le (or ve g e ta b le m ixtu re , in th e case o f c ro q u e tte s and fr itte r s ) should be fu lly cooked, tender, and hot. The coating, i f any, should be golden to brown. However, p ro p e rly frie d te m pura veg etab le s should be w h ite to lig h t golden and have a crisp te x tu re on th e outside. V egetables coa ted in bre ad ing and prepared by the ba sket m ethod ty p ic a lly sta y subm erged u n til th e y are fu lly cooked, when th e y rise to th e o il’s surface. Use the ba sket to l i f t th e m fro m th e oil. Hold th e ba sket over the fr y e r b rie fly to allow th e oil to drain back in to th e k e ttle . B a tte r-c o a te d veg etab le s frie d using th e sw im m ing m etho d may be tu rn e d as th e y f r y to cook and brown them evenly. Use ton gs, a spider, o r s im ila r to o ls to tu rn the v eg etab le s and l i f t the m fro m th e oil when fu lly cooked. T ransfe r frie d veg etab le s to a pan lined w ith paper to w e ls to b lo t the m . Season the m w ith salt, pepper, or spice blends a t th is p o in t. Seasoning should never be done d ire c tly over the fry e r, since th e se seasonings could has te n the breakdow n o f th e fry in g oil. Fried veg etab le s are a t th e ir peak o f q u a lity now, and should be served rig h t away. If necessary, th e y may be held fo r up to 15 m inutes in a w arm place (such as under a heat lamp). In general, th e th in n e r th e c u t used f o r th e vegetable, th e c ris p e r th e fin is h e d dish w ill be. The e x te rio r o f the ve g e ta b le should be golden o r brow n in color, th e fla v o r fre s h and appealing. The coating, i f any was used, should be an even th ickn e ss and n o t excessive in re la tio n to the ve g e ta b le p o rtio n . The vegetable, as w e ll as any coatings, should be p ro p e rly seasoned and e x tre m e ly hot.
676
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATO ES, G R A IN S A N D LE G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
eg etab le en ch
-s
s t ew s
an d
t y l e p e a s
)
b raises
a n d
,
includ e
such
delicate
dishes
on the other end of the s p e c t r u m
,
a s
petits
pois
a
la
fran ch ise
su ch st u r d y a n d ro bu st dishes
A S R A T A T O U I L L E A N D B R A I S E D C A B B A G E . S T E W E D O R B R A I S E D V E G E T A B L E S L I T E R A L L Y C O O K IN T H E I R O W N J U I C E S . T h e V E G E T A B L E S IN
a
S T E W A R E C U S T O M A R I L Y C U T I N T O S M A L L P I E C E S , W H I L E T H O S E IN
A B R A I S E A R E IN L A R G E P I E C E S O R L E F T W H O L E . O C C A S I O N A L L Y , B E U R R E M A N I E O R A S T A R C H S L U R R Y IS A D D E D T O T H E J U I C E S T O G I V E T H E D I S H M O R E S U B S T A N C E A N D T O I M P R O V E I TS A P P E A R A N C E . T h e T H I C K E N E D S A U C E L IG HT LY COATS TH E V E G E T A B L E , PROVIDING AN A T T R AC TI V E S H EE N . V E G E T A B L E S T E W S A N D B R A I S E S H A V E DEEP, C O N C E N T R A T E D F LA V O RS . S T E W S A N D B R A I S E S S H O U L D BE FORK T E N D E R OR, IN S O M E C A S E S , M E L T I N G L Y S O F T .
stewing and braising
stewing and braising
V
(Fr
V egetable stew s and braises may be com posed o f one main in g re d ie n t or a com bination o f vegetables. Braised fennel, fo r example, contains a single main in gre die nt; ra ta to u ille is a ste w th a t m elds several d iffe re n t vegetables. Braises and stew s ge ne rally include some a ro m a tic in g re d ie n ts such as sh a llo ts or m irepoix. Prepare the veg etab le s according to th e ir typ e and the desired resu lt. Rinse, peel, trim , and cu t th e vegetables, as necessary. Blanch the m to rem ove b itte rn e s s o r to aid in rem ov ing peels. The fa t chosen should have a good fla v o r— one th a t is a p p ro p ria te to the dish. Veg eta ble s th a t do not release a s ig n ific a n t am ount o f liquid as th e y cook may need a d d itio n a l liquid such as stock, wine, fu m e t, juice, or w ater. Prepare and use seasonings and aro m atics such as s a lt and pepper, shallots, garlic, m inced herbs, spices, m ire poix, or m atignon. Some braised and stew ed veg etab le dishes include a po rk p ro d u c t (salt pork, bacon, or ham) or an acid (vinegar, c itru s ze st or juice, or wine) to develop a com plex flavo r. Some recipes call fo r an added th icke n e r such as a slu rry o f a rro w ro o t, cornstarch, po ta to starch, or a beurre manie. Various fin is h in g in gre die nts, such as reduced heavy cream, a cream sauce, b u tte r, or a liaison may be added to give a v eg etab le s te w a rich flavo r, some sheen, and a sm oo th te x tu re . A veg etab le stew or braise may also be garnished w ith bread crum bs and cheese to cre a te a gratin. The main piece o f eq uipm en t needed is a b ra sie r or rondeau o r o th e r deep, wide, heavyb o tto m e d cooking vessel w ith a lid. Use a skim m e r o r s lo tte d spoon to rem ove p ro p e rly braised or stew ed veg etab le s fro m the p o t b e fo re fin is h in g the sauce. Use a s tra in e r or im m ersion b le n d e rto fin is h th e sauce.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O KIN G V E G E T A B LE S
677
D
basic formula
Stewed or Braised Vegetables
Aromatic vegetables,
Small amount of cooking fat
seasonings, herbs, and spices Finishing and garnishing ingredients
(10 portions) Flavorful cooking liquid 3 lb to 3 lb 8 oz/1.35 to 1.59 kg prepped vegetables (weighed after trimming, peeling, and cutting)
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Heat the oil or stock.
ex p ert tips
Smother the vegetable and seasonings or aromatics. 3.
Add the liquid, bring it to a simmer, and cook the vegetable.
To develop additional flavor,
f l
choose flavorfulliquids to add
to the stew or braise: STOCK / BROTH
Add the remaining vegetables and aromatics. 5.
Cook the stew or braise until the vegetables are tender.
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Add some early in the cooking process to infuse flavor. Add others later so that they retain their individual flavor and/or texture. S A C H ET D ’EPIC ES / B O U Q U ET G A R NI / GARLIC
Adjust the seasoning and finish the dish according to the recipe.
To prepare a sauce from the cooking liquid, remove the vegetables from the cooking liquid and thicken it in one of the following ways:
7.
Serve the vegetable or hold it.
» Reduce the liquid to a sauce-like flavor and consistency. » Puree some of the arom atic vegetables and return the puree to the cooking liquid. » Add a bit of beurre manie or starch slurry to the cooking liquid.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
stewing and braising
1. cook the aromatic vegetables in a coo kin g fa t, beginning w ith m em bers o f th e onion fa m ily, to develop a sm ooth, sw e et ta s te in th e dish. Cook a ro m a tic veg etab le s in a lig h t-c o lo re d ste w or braise ju s t u n til th e y s ta r t to becom e te n d e r and release some o f th e ir n a tural ju ices. A d d in g s a lt a t th e beginning o f the coo kin g process w ill help acce le rate m o istu re release fro m th e veg etab le s. For o th e r dishes, cook th e a ro m a t ics to th e de sire d stage o f brow nness, ranging fro m lig h t gold to deep brown. Use enough o il to p ro p e rly cook the a ro m a tics w ith o u t scorch in g them , and s tir as needed to develop th e ir fla v o r and color.
m eth o d in detail 2. add the remaining ingredients in order, fro m le a st to m o s t ten der, s tirrin g as necessary and a d ju s tin g th e seasoning and co n siste n cy o f th e dish as it braises or stew s. Cook ve g e ta b le stew s over g e n tle heat w ith th e lid on to encourage the m to release th e ir fla v o r and to ca p tu re it in th e coo kin g liquid. Braises may be cooked over d ire c t heat or in th e oven. If th e cooking liquid cooks aw ay to o quickly, add m ore and low er the heat s lig h tly . If th e liq u id does n o t reduce p ro p e rly du rin g cooking, rem ove th e lid to encourage n a tural red uctio n. S tew or braise th e ve g e ta b le s u n til th e y are fla v o rfu l, fu lly cooked, and fo rk -te n d e r. The ste w or braise is ready to serve now, b u t may be fin is h e d by p re p a rin g a sauce fro m th e co o kin g liquid. Serve as is on h o t plates, or fin is h th e veg etab le s w ith a g ra tin to p p in g and brow n under a salam ander or bro ile r. S tew ed and braised ve g e ta b le s can be held fo r a longer tim e than o th e r v e g e ta b le s w ith o u t losing s ig n ific a n t q u a lity. Hold them , lo o se ly covered, in a stea m ta b le . They also may be cooled and re frig e ra te d , then reh ea te d as needed.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G VE G E T A B L E S
679
general guidelines for vegetables Each vegetable cooking technique produces spe cific and cha racteristic results and a ffe cts the flavor, te xtu re , and n u tritive value o f each vegetable in d iffe re n t ways. The chef can take advantage o f the fu ll range o f p o ssib ilities w ith in a m ethod to produce vegetable dishes ta i lored to the op era tion’s needs. Kitchens th a t rely on regional and seasonal produce can adapt a technique both to su it an ingredient's specific needs and to achieve an e ffe c t. For example, though acorn squash is o fte n roasted or pureed, it can also be ge n tly stewed in cream or grilled and served w ith a salsa. Cucumbers, m ost com m only considered a vegetable to be eaten raw, may be steamed, sauteed, or even braised. The flavor, te xtu re , and color diffe re nce s produced in one vegetable when prepared by d iffe re n t techniques can be quite extraordinary. C a refully handled veg etab le s m aintain th e ir flavo r, color, te x tu re , and n u tritio n a l value longer. Rinse le a fy or d e lica te vegetables ca re fu lly to avoid bru isin g them , and dry them tho ro ug hly. Scrub h a rdier veg etab le s b e fo re peeling. Be sure to rem ove all tra ce s o f d irt or g rit. In all cases, fro m a sim ple dish o f steam ed or boiled vegetables, served seasoned but o th e rw ise unadorned, to a com plex veg etab le gra tin, th e b e st overall q u a lity is assured by p ro p e rly cooking v egetables to th e a p p ro p ria te doneness and serving them as soon as possible. The style o f service and overall volum e o f the kitche n de te rm in e how much ad vance cooking and ho ld ing is desirable ju s t as much as the nature o f the veg etab le and the cooking m ethod. Sauteed, s tir-frie d , pa n -frie d , and d e e p -frie d dishes m ay be prepared ju s t a t the m om ent o f service. Braises, stews, and purees are su ite d to batch cooking, since th e y are easier to hold and lose little , i f any, o f th e ir fla v o r and te x tu re when prepared in advance and reheated (and may, in fa c t, im prove when held). There are d is tin c t d iffe re n ce s in how te n d e r a vegetable should be when it is properly cooked. Some veg etab le s— broccoli and green beans, fo r exam ple— are not considered pro pe rly cooked u n til they are qu ite tender. O thers, such as snow peas and sugar snap peas, should always retain some b ite (fu lly cooked but s till firm ). Preferences regarding the co r re ct doneness o f certain vegetables may vary fro m one cuisine to a nother and fro m one veg etable to another. In addition, the re are d iffe re n t standards fo r d iffe re n t cooking techniques. For example, s tir-fry in g generally resu lts in a very crisp te xtu re , w hile roa sting and braising produce very ten der vegetables.
OPTIONS FORREHEATINGVEGETABLES In simmering stock or water. Place the veg
moist. Cover with plastic wrap and cut
etables in a sieve or perforated basket and
vents to allow the steam to escape, or cover
lower them into a pot of simmering stock
with parchment paper. Reheat on the high
or water just long enough to heat the veg
est power setting for the shortest possible
etables through. Drain and immediately
time, finish immediately, and serve.
finish the vegetables with butter, sauce,
By sauteing or sweating. Heat a small
seasonings, and so on.
amount of olive oil, butter, cream, stock,
In the microwave. Generally best for small
sauce, or glaze in a saute pan and add the
amounts. Evenly space the vegetables on
vegetables. Toss over medium-high heat
a flat, round, or oval plate or other micro
until warmed through. Add seasonings if
wave-safe container. Some additional liq
necessary and serve.
uid may be needed to keep the vegetables
680
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Steamed Broccoli
Makes10servings
Makes10servings
3 q t/2 .8 8 L water
3 lb 8 o z/1 .5 9 kg broccoli (about 4 bunches)
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg carrots, cut into desired shape (oblique, rondelles, batonnet, julienne, etc.)
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Trim the broccoli, peel the stems, and cut into 1 . Bring the water to a boil in a large pot. Add enough salt to flavor the water. Add the carrots. If necessary, cover the pot to return the water to a boil as quickly as possible. Reduce the heat to a strong simmer. Z . Simmer the carrots until tender, 4 to 7 minutes, depending on the thickness of the cut. Drain immediately.
3 . Serve the carrots immediately, finish as desired, or cool rapidly and refrigerate to reheat and serve later.
spears. Arrange the broccoli on a steamer rack or perforated insert, and season with salt and pepper.
vegetable recipes
Boiled Carrots
2 . Bring water to a full boil in the bottom of a tightly covered steamer. Add the broccoli rack, replace the cover, and steam the broccoli until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.
3 . Remove the broccoli from the steamer, adjust sea soning with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, or forego seasoning if storing and cool and store for later service.
Boiled Edamame Makes10servings
B rocco li and Toasted G arlic: Saute thinly sliced garlic in b u tte r or oil in a medium saute pan until lightly browned. Add the steamed broccoli and toss or roll it in the butter until very hot. Adjust seasoning w ith salt and pepper, as necessary. Serve immediately.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sea salt 1 q t/9 6 0 m L water 1 lb /4 5 4 g shelled edamame
1 . Add all but 1 tsp/3 g of the salt to the water in a me dium stockpot and bring to a boil.
2 . Add the edamame and simmer until tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain the edamame and season with the remaining 1 tsp/3 g ° f salt. Serve hot or cool to room temperature.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
681
Creamed Corn
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water 2 f I o z/6 0 mL red or white wine vinegar
6 o z/1 7 0 g fine-dice leeks, light green and white portions 16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg red or golden beets, tops and root ends trimmed, skin on and washed
Salt, as needed
3'/2 0 z / 9 9 g sugar
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL red or white wine vinegar
Ground nutmeg, as needed
3 tb sp /4 5 mL orange juice
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped chervil
vegetable recipes
Glazed Beets
l '/2 o z/4 3 g butter Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the leeks and cream in a nonreactive me dium saucepan. Season with salt, pepper, and nut meg. Simmer over medium heat until the cream has reduced by half.
1 . Combine the water and 2 fl oz/6o mL vinegar in a large pot and add the beets. Bring the water to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook the beets until they are soft when pierced with a fork or skewer, about 40 minutes, depending on size.
2 . Drain and cool slightly. Peel and slice the beets into Vi-in/e-mm-thick rounds or uniform wedges. Hold warm until ready to serve.
2 . Steam the corn over boiling water until fully cooked, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain the corn and add to the leek mixture. Simmer to reach a good flavor and consis tency, 2 to 3 minutes more.
3 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Add the chopped chervil if serving immediately or add to corn just before serving. Serve now or hold it hot for service.
3 . In a small saute pan, combine the sugar, vinegar, juice, stock, and butter and bring to a simmer. Cook gently until the glaze has the consistency of a light syrup, about 15 minutes.
4 . When ready to serve, toss the cut beets in the glaze over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
chapter 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
683
Pan-Steamed Carrots Makes 10 servings 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg sliced carrots ('A in/6 mm thick)
Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash Makes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter
1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL peanut oil
2 tb s p /1 8 g minced ginger V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot 2 tsp /6 g minced garlic
1 . Pour about i in/3 cm salted water into a large sauce pan and bring to a boil.
2 . Add the carrots, adding more water if necessary to barely cover the carrots. Bring to a boil. Cover the
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g snow peas, strings removed 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice yellow squash Salt, as needed Freshly ground white pepper, as needed
pan tightly, and reduce the heat slightly.
3 . Pan steam the carrots until they are fully cooked and tender to the bite, 5 to 6 minutes.
4 . When done, drain any excess water from the pan. • Return the carrots to the heat and allow excess moisture to evaporate. Add the butter and parsley and season with salt and pepper. Stir or toss until the carrots are evenly coated and very hot. Serve imme
1 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. 2 . Add the ginger, shallots, and garlic and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3 . Add the snow peas and squash and saute until ten der, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
diately. Pan-Steam ed H a rico ts V erts: S u b stitu te 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg trim m ed haricots verts fo r the carrots. Pan steam the haricots verts according to the above method. To f inish the haricots verts, saute 1 tb s p /9 g minced shallot irt 2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil until translucent. Add the cooked haricots verts and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately. Pecan C arrots: Prepare the carrots as directed above. In step 4, add 3A oz/21 g minced shallot, V / 2 oz/43 g honey, and 3 oz/85 g chopped toasted pecans w ith the butter. Substitute minced chives fo r the parsley.
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings
Glazed Carrots Makes 10 servings 3 o z/8 5 g butter 2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg oblique-cut carrots
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg haricots verts, cleaned
VAo z/4 3 g sugar
2 o z/5 7 g butter 2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL water, Chicken Stock (page 263), or Vegetable Stock (page 265), hot
1 tsp/B g minced garlic
Salt, as needed
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
Ground white pepper, as needed
vegetable recipes
Green Beans with Walnuts
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 2 tb s p /3 0 mL walnut oil 3 o z/8 5 g chopped walnuts 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives
1 . Melt the butter in a large saute pan over mediumlow heat. Add the carrots.
2 . Cover the pan and sweat the carrots for 2 to 3 minutes.
3 . Add the sugar and liquid. Season with salt and pep per. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium
1 . Cut the green beans on the bias, if desired.
2 . Heat the butter in a small rondeau or large sautoir. Add the shallots and garlic and saute over mediumhigh heat until translucent, i to 2 minutes.
3 . Add the green beans in an even layer. Add the stock. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and pan steam the beans until tender. The cooking liquid should reduce
heat.
4 . Cover the pan and cook the carrots over low heat until they are almost tender, about 5 minutes.
5 . Remove the lid and continue to simmer until the cooking liquid reduces to a glaze and the carrots are tender, 2 to 3 minutes. 6 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
during this time and thicken slightly to coat the beans. If necessary, remove the cover and continue simmering until the liquid is almost fully reduced and coats the vegetables, l to 2 minutes more.
5 . Toss the green beans with the oil, walnuts, and chives. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
chapter 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
685
Grilled Vegetables Provenqal-Style Makes 10 servings
M a rin a te d G rilled V egetables: Combine 8 f l oz/2 40 mL vegetable oil, 2 f l o z/6 0 mL soy sauce, 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, 2 tsp /6 g minced garlic, and V 2 tsp /1 g crushed fennel seeds. Marinate the zucchini, eggplant, onion rings, and peppers fo r 1 hour, then allow any excess marinade to drain o ff before grilling.
2 o z/5 7 g garlic cloves
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil, or as needed 2 tbsp /6 g minced rosemary 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g zucchini, cut into ’/H n /1 .2 5 -c m thick slices (either on an elongated bias or lengthwise) 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g eggplant, cut into '/2-in/1.25-cm thick slices (either on an elongated bias or lengthwise)
8 o z/2 2 7 g onion, sliced into !/2-in/1.25-cm rings
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Soy-Sesame Glaze Makes 10 servings
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g green pepper 6 o z/1 7 0 g red pepper 4 o z /1 13 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomato 1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar
1 o z/2 8 g basil chiffonade
SOY-SESAME GLAZE 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce or tamari 2 fl o z/6 0 mL water 2 f I o z/6 0 mL peanut or corn oil 2 o z/5 7 gtahini paste 1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil 1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
1 . Place the garlic in a large, shallow pan and add enough oil to barely cover it. Add the rosemary
2 tsp /6 g minced ginger V 2 tsp /1
g red pepper flakes (optional)
and simmer over very low heat until the garlic is blanched but not falling apart, 15 to 20 minutes. Re move from the heat and cool to room temperature. Reserve.
2 . Brush the zucchini, eggplant, and onion rings with the
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg shiitake mushrooms
10 green onions, cleaned and root end trimmed 3/ t oz/21 g toasted sesame seeds
garlic and rosemary oil and season with salt and pep per. Place them on the hot grill and cook on the first side until browned. Turn once and complete cooking on the second side until the vegetables are tender, 3 minutes total or more. Remove from the grill.
3 . Grill the peppers until evenly charred on all sides. Remove from the grill and let the peppers cool. Re move the skin, core, seeds, and ribs. Cut the peppers into %-in/i.25 cm strips.
bowl. Keep refrigerated until needed.
2 . If desired, slice any large mushroom caps in half lengthwise.
3 . Add the mushrooms and green onions to the glaze and marinate for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.
4 . Remove the mushrooms and green onions from the glaze, letting the excess drain away.
4 . Put the garlic and 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a large,
5 . Grill the mushrooms and green onions until marked
deep saucepan and heat over medium heat. Remove
on all sides and cooked through, about 2 minutes on
the pan from the heat. Add the grilled vegetables
each side.
and the tomatoes and stir gently to blend the flavors. Add the vinegar and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Fold in the basil and serve immediately, or
686
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the glaze in a small
6 . Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve immediately. NOTE: Once grilled, the mushrooms can be returned to the
hold the vegetables warm for service and garnish
marinade, allowed to cool to room temperature, and
individual servings with basil.
added to salads or other dishes as a garnish.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Zucchini Pancakes with Tzatziki Makes
10
servings
6 . Pour enough oil into a large saute pan to come to a depth of about Vs in/3 mm- Heat over medium-high heat until the surface of the oil shimmers. Working in batches, drop 2 to 3 tablespoons/30 to 45 mL of the zucchini mixture into the oil, leaving enough
1 r /2 o z/3 2 6 g zucchini, grated Sait, as needed 4'/z o z/1 2 8 g green onions, thinly sliced
room for the pancakes to spread as they cook. Fry the pancakes until golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Blot the cakes on a paper towel before transferring each batch of
4 eggs
pancakes to the sheet pan in the oven to keep warm.
2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour
Replenish the oil in the pan as needed.
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped dill VA o z/3 5 g chopped parsley 2 tbsp /6 g chopped tarragon V2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper 3 o z/8 5 g feta cheese, finely crumbled 3 o z/8 5 g pine nuts Olive oil, as needed TZATZIKI 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL plain yogurt
7 . To make the tzatziki, combine the yogurt, sour cream, cucumber, and garlic in a food processor and puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and fold in the olive oil, mint, lemon juice, and zest. 8 . Stir until combined and season with salt and pepper. Keep refrigerated until needed for service.
9 . Serve the pancakes with the tzatziki sauce on the side. NOTE: The pancake mixture can be prepared through step 4 up to 3 hours ahead. Cover tig h tly and refrigerate. S tir to blend before continuing.
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL sour cream
2'/2 o z/71 g cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 tb s p /1 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 tb sp /3 g minced mint or dill 1 ts p /5 mL lemon juice
Asparagus with Plollandaise Makes
10
servings
Vi ts p /1 .5 0 g grated lemon zest Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
HOLLANDAISE
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallots 3/ t ts p /1 .5 0 g cracked black pepper
1 . Place the zucchini in a colander. Sprinkle with 1V2 tsp/5 g salt and let stand for 30 minutes.
2 . Squeeze the zucchini to remove as much liquid as possible. Dry the zucchini by pressing it between several layers of paper towels.
3 . Combine the zucchini, green onions, eggs, flour,
3 tb s p /4 5 mL white wine 3 fl o z/9 0 mL cider vinegar
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL cold water 6 egg yolks 1 lb /4 5 4 g clarified butter, warm
dill, parsley, and tarragon. Season with salt and pep
2 ts p /1 0 mL lemon juice
per. Mix until evenly blended. Fold in the feta (see
1 ts p /3 g salt
Note).
'/4 ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper
4 . Fold in the pine nuts.
]A ts p /1 .2 5 mL hot sauce
5 . Place a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven to hold the pancakes warm as you work.
688
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
2 g al/7.68 L water 2 o z/5 7 g salt
1 . To make the hollandaise, place the shallots, cracked black pepper, white wine, and cider vinegar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Allow to simmer until almost dry, about 5 minutes.
2 . Pour the cold water into the pan immediately to stop the reduction. Strain the cool mixture into a bowl with the egg yolks and whisk together.
3 . Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. The water should never touch the bottom of the bowl. Whisk the mixture until it is light and fluffy
Baked Acorn Squash with CranberryOrange Compote Makes 12 servings 3 acorn squash (about 1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g each)
2'A o z/7 1 g brown sugar, honey, or maple syrup 5 o z/1 4 2 g butter, diced into 12 pieces
vegetable recipes
4 lb 5 o z/1.96 kg asparagus
V/2 ts p /5 g salt, or as needed 3A ts p /1 .5 0 g ground black pepper, or as needed 2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Cranberry-Orange Compote (recipe follows)
and ribbons fall off the whisk and back into the bowl. Remove from the heat about once a minute and continue whisking for about 10 seconds to allow
1 . Quarter the squash and remove the seeds. Place the squash cut side up on a sheet pan. Sprinkle with the
the temperature to stabilize, then place back on the
sugar. Place 1 cube of butter on each quarter. Season
saucepan and continue whisking. Remove from the
with salt and pepper.
heat and continue whisking to prevent the mixture from overcooking from carryover heat.
4 . Begin slowly drizzling the clarified butter into the yolk mixture while whisking constantly. If the butter is not incorporating completely, stop and whisk until it has disappeared and then resume.
5 . Once the butter is completely incorporated, whisk
2 . Cover the squash with foil and bake in a 400°F/ 204°C oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until tender, about 15 minutes more, basting periodically.
3 . Serve each portion of the squash on a heated plate, topped with 2 fl oz/6o mL cranberry-orange compote.
for an additional 10 seconds and season with lemon juice, salt, white pepper, and hot sauce. 6 . Pass through a strainer to remove clumps and serve immediately or place in a metal container in a i50°F/66°C water bath.
7 . Trim the asparagus to remove the woody part by bending the stalk gently until it snaps. 8 . Combine the water and salt in a large stockpot and
Cranberry-Orange Compote Makes 32 fl
0 Z/960
mL
2 lb /9 0 7 g cranberries 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL orange juice
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed
bring to a boil. Add the asparagus and boil until
4 o z/1 1 3 g orange zest, cut into fine julienne, blanched
cooked through, about 5 minutes.
Salt, as needed
9 . Drain the asparagus and serve with the hollandaise
Ground black pepper, as needed
immediately.
1 . Combine the cranberries, juice, and enough water to barely cover the berries in a nonreactive medium saucepan. Add the sugar and simmer over medium heat until the berries are soft and the liquid is thick ened, 8 to 10 minutes.
2 . Stir in the orange zest. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
chapter 22 » CO O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
689
Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg spaghetti squash
B utternut Squash Puree M akes 10 servings
1 o z/2 8 g butter 4 lb/1.81 kg butternut squash, halved, seeded Salt, as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft Ground black pepper, as needed 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot
1 . Halve the squash and remove the seeds. Place the squash, cut side down, in a medium roasting pan.
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Add enough water to cover by one-third. Cover with a lid or foil.
2 . Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until the squash is ex
1 . Pierce the squash and place it in a medium roast ing pan, cut side down. Add enough water to create
tremely tender, about l hour. To check for doneness,
steam during the initial roasting time. Cover with a
pierce with a kitchen fork or paring knife. There
lid or foil, if desired.
should be no resistance.
3 . When the squash is cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh, using a fork to separate it into strands.
4 . Reheat the squash by sauteing it in the butter in a large sautoir over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
2 . Roast in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until the squash is ex tremely tender, about l hour. To check for doneness, pierce with a kitchen fork or paring knife. There should be no resistance. Remove the lid or foil dur ing the final 15 minutes of cooking to brown the squash.
3 . Remove from the oven. As soon as the squash can be safely handled (it should still be very hot), scoop the flesh from the skin.
4 . Puree the squash flesh using a food mill, blender, or food processor.
5 . If necessary, transfer the puree to a medium sauce pot and simmer over low heat to thicken. 6 . Stir in the butter and cream and season with salt and pepper. The puree is ready to use at once, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
vegetable recipes
Spaghetti Squash
Curried Roasted Cauliflower Makes 10 servings
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes Makes 10 servings
2 heads cauliflower (about 4 lb/1.81 kg), core removed
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg Roma tomatoes
2 f I o z/6 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
3 fl o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 tb s p /1 3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
Vi o z/1 4 g minced garlic
2 ts p /4 g ground cumin seed
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
1 ts p /3 g salt, or as needed
2 tsp /2 g basil chiffonade
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper, or as needed
2 tsp /2 g chopped oregano 1 tsp /1 g chopped thyme
1 . Break the cauliflower into pieces and slice larger
Salt, as needed
pieces in half. Toss with the olive oil, curry powder, cumin, salt, and pepper.
2 . Place the cauliflower on a parchment-lined sheet pan and roast in a 400°F/240°C oven until golden brown, about 30 minutes, turning as necessary. Serve immediately.
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Remove the cores from the tomatoes and cut into the desired shape (halves, quarters, wedges, or slices). Arrange in a single layer skin side down on a rack over a sheet pan.
2 . Combine the oil, garlic, shallots, basil, oregano, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle or brush this mixture over the tomatoes and turn carefully to coat them. Make sure that the skin side is down be fore roasting.
3 . Roast in a 275°F/i35°C oven until the tomatoes are dried and lightly browned, 1 to 1V2 hours.
4 . The tomatoes are ready to serve now or use as an ingredient in another dish, or they may be cooled on the racks and stored, covered, under refrigeration.
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
M arinated Roasted Peppers
Makes 10 servings
Roasted Carrots Makes 10 servings 2 o z/5 7 g duck fat, lard, or vegetable oil 2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg oblique-cut carrots
4 lb 4 o z/1.93 kg roasted red and yellow peppers (see page 694)
Salt, as needed
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g golden raisins 4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted pine nuts
Vi o z /1 4 g chopped parsley 2
Vits p /7 .5 0 g minced garlic
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Preheat a medium roasting pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven. Melt the fat in the pan.
vegetable recipes
Marinated Roasted Peppers
2 . Add the carrots, toss with the melted fat, and season with salt and pepper. Roast the carrots until tender and golden brown, stirring occasionally.
3 . Serve immediately.
1 . Cut the roasted peppers into %-in/6-mm slices and drain in a sieve or colander for 2 hours.
2 . Combine the peppers with the oil, raisins, pine nuts, parsley, and garlic, and season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K I N G V E G E T A B L E S
695
Shrimp-Stuffed Mirlitons Makes 10 servings
Eggplant Parmesan Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg eggplant V/2 o z/4 3 g salt
5 mirlitons or chayote squash
1 tsp /2 g ground black pepper 3 o z/8 5 g butter 13 o z/3 6 9 g all-purpose flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onion 2 medium green peppers, cut into small dice 2 celery ribs, cut into small dice
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 365)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried bread crumbs 26 fl o z/7 8 0 mL vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, minced 50 f I o z/1.50 L Tomato Sauce (page 295)
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, deveined, and small-diced shrimp
10 o z/2 8 4 g grated Parmesan
5 o z/1 4 2 g fresh bread crumbs Hot sauce, as needed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g mozzarella cheese, sliced Vs in /3 mm thick (20 slices)
1 tb sp /3 g minced thyme Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Peel the eggplant and cut it into y2-in/i-cm circles. You will need 40 slices total (4 per serving). Lay the eggplant slices on a sheet pan lined with parchment
1 egg, lightly beaten
paper and lightly salt them. Set aside for 30 minutes
Vegetable oil, as needed
to release moisture.
2 . Drain the eggplant on paper towels. Season the 1 . Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Boil the mirlitons until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
2 . When cool enough to handle, cut the mirlitons in
eggplant with pepper and coat it using the standard breading procedure (see page 365).
3 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, pan fry the eggplant slices
half lengthwise. Remove and discard the large center
until golden brown. Drain for 2 to 3 minutes on
seed and scoop out the pulp, leaving the shells intact
paper towels, then transfer to a rack.
with %-in/6-mm sides. Coarsely chop the pulp and reserve.
3 . In a large saute pan, melt 2 oz/57 g of the butter
4 . Place ten 12-fl oz/360-mL casserole dishes on a sheet pan. Spread about 2 fl oz/6o mL of tomato sauce on the bottom of each. Lay 2 slices of the fried eggplant
over medium heat. Add the onions, green peppers,
on top of the tomato sauce. Sprinkle about V2 oz/14 g
celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the
of the Parmesan over the top and lay on 1 slice of
vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the
mozzarella. Top with about 2 fl oz/6o mL more
chopped mirliton pulp and cook for 5 minutes more.
tomato sauce and place 2 more eggplant slices on
Add the shrimp. Stir in 3 oz/85 g of the bread crumbs, hot sauce, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
top. Evenly spread 2 tbsp/30 mL more of the tomato
4 . Let the stuffing cool slightly. Stir in the egg. 5 . Arrange the mirliton shells cut side up on an oiled
sauce on top and cover with the remaining slice of mozzarella and V2 oz/14 g ° f Parmesan.
5 . Bake the eggplant in a 350°F/i77°C oven until golden
half sheet pan. Spoon the stuffing into the shells,
brown on top and the sauce is bubbling. Serve
sprinkle with the remaining bread crumbs, and dot
immediately.
with the remaining butter. 6 . Bake uncovered in a 350°F/i77°C oven, until the stuffing is firm and the tops are golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Eggplant Parmesan
until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Combine with the
Makes 10 servings
beans. Add the jalapeno Jack, dry Jack, queso Chihua hua, caciotta, marjoram, epazote, oregano, 1 tsp/3 g ° f
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried black beans, soaked overnight 4 o z /1 13 g dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight
10 poblano chiles
the salt, and the pepper. Mix together gently.
5 . Fill each chile with 3 oz/85 g ° f the filling, taking care not to overstuff. Close the seam of the chiles around the filling, overlapping the cut edges.
FILLING 2 o z/5 7 g small-dice onion
2 tsp /6 g minced garlic
6 . Heat the poblanos rellenos in a 350°F/i77°C oven un til the filling is very hot, 18 to 20 minutes.
7 . Serve each poblano relleno with 6 tortilla chips,
1 tb s p /1 5 mL olive oil
1 cilantro sprig, 2 tbsp/30 mL guacamole, 1 tbsp/15 mL
4 o z /1 13 g grated jalapeno Jack
sour cream, and 2 tbsp/30 mL of summer squash salsa.
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated dry Jack 4 o z/1 1 3 g grated queso Chihuahua
vegetable recipes
Poblanos Rellenos
NOTE: The chiles can also be battered and deep fried, if desired, as in the Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno on page 528.
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated ancho caciotta
2 tsp /2 g chopped marjoram I V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g dried epazote
Summer Squash Salsa
1 ts p /2 g dried Mexican oregano, crushed
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt '/2
tsp /1 g ground black pepper
60 Tortilla Chips (page 962)
10 cilantro sprigs 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Guacamole (page 958) 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Summer Squash Salsa (recipe follows)
1 yellow squash, seeded, cut into small dice 1 zucchini, seeded, cut into small dice V/2 o z/4 3 g small-dice carrots 6 V2 o z/1 8 4
g small-dice plum tomatoes
3 o z/8 5 g small-dice tomatillos 3 o z/8 5 g small-dice red onion
V2 o z/1 4 g minced chipotle chile V/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g coarsely chopped marjoram 4 ts p /4 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 . Cook each type of bean separately in simmering wa
2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
ter until completely tender, about 90 minutes for the black beans and 1 hour for the kidney beans. Drain and cool to room temperature.
2 .. Wash and dry the poblanos. Roast over an open flame on medium heat, turning them occasionally
2 tb sp /3 0 mL rice wine vinegar '/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
to ensure even cooking. When most of the skin is charred and the chiles are halfway tender, place them in a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow them to sweat for 30 minutes.
3 . Using the back of a paring knife, remove the blis tered skin without cutting or damaging the chiles. Cut a slit down the length of each chile. Scrape out the seeds, making sure to leave the chiles whole.
4 . To make the filling, sweat the onions and garlic in the olive oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat
1 . Blanch the squash, zucchini, and carrots separately in boiling salted water until just tender. Shock in an ice water bath and drain.
2 . Combine the blanched squash, zucchini, and carrots with the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, chipotle, mar joram, cilantro, oil, vinegar, and sugar and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
chapter 22 » C OOK I N G V E G E T A B L E S
699
Mushroom Quesadillas with Two Salsas Makes 10 servings
4 . Cook the tortillas in batches in a dry medium pan over medium heat until lightly browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Cover the tortillas and reserve.
5 . To make the mushroom filling, heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute until the onions are
FLOUR TORTILLAS 2 3/ t o z/7 8 g shortening 1 lb 3 o z/5 39 g all-purpose flour
Vi o z/1 4 g salt 10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL water (90°F/32°C ) MUSHROOM FILLING 1 tb s p /1 5 mL olive oil
6 3/» o z/1 91 g onions, minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 lb /9 0 7 g mushrooms, sliced Va in /3 mm thick
translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and chiles and saute until the mushrooms are tender, 4 to 5 minutes more. 6 . Add the lime juice, epazote, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until the liquid evapo rates. Cool the mixture completely and reserve.
7 . Grate the queso Chihuahua and stir into the re served mushroom filling. 8 . Assemble the quesadillas by dividing the mush room filling between the flour tortillas.
9 . Cook the assembled quesadillas in a lightly oiled cast-iron skillet over medium heat until lightly
1 tbsp /8 g minced serrano chile
browned on the outside and the filling is heated
3 f I o z/9 0 mL lime juice
through. If necessary, the quesadillas can be fin
1 tsp /1 g dried epazote IV 2 ts p /3 g dried thyme Salt, as needed
ished in a 35o°F/i77°C oven.
0 . Serve with frijoles a la charra, arroz Mexicano, salsa roja, and salsa verde cruda.
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g queso Chihuahua 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Frijoles a la Charra (page 773) 2 lb /9 0 7 g Arroz Mexicano (page 782) 1 lb /4 5 4 g Salsa Roja (page 954) 1 lb 11 o z/7 6 5 g Salsa Verde Cruda (page 954)
1 . To make the flour tortillas, cut the shortening into the flour in a medium bowl using your fingertips. Continue to rub until the mixture reaches a mealy consistency.
2 . Add the salt and water and mix just until a smooth dough forms. Cover the dough and let it rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
3 . Divide the dough into i 3A-oz/^o-g pieces and roll into rounds. Roll out each piece of dough on a floured surface to about Vie in/1.50 mm thick. Brush off any excess flour and stack the tortillas with pieces of parchment paper in between to pre vent sticking.
700
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings
5 . Combine the water and eggs. Add gradually to the flour and butter mixture, mixing on low speed just until a shaggy mass forms. Remove the dough from the mixer and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest, refrigerated, for l hour.
2Vi f I o z/7 5 mL olive oil
6 . Divide the dough into 10 pieces on a lightly floured
6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g onions, sliced
surface. Wrap each piece of dough and refrigerate
'/2 0 z /1 4 g garlic
until needed (see Note).
10 o z/2 8 4 g zucchini, cut on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick 14 oz/B97 g yellow squash, cut on the bias V* in/6 mm thick
7 . Roll out the dough to Vs in/3 mm thick on a lightly floured surface. Cut the dough with a 6-in/i5-cm cut ter. Dock with a fork and bake on a parchment-lined
vegetable recipes
Seasonal Vegetable Tarts
sheet pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven until golden brown, lib 1 o z/4 8 2 g eggplant, cut on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick
1 2 3A o z/3 61 g plum tomatoes, cut on the bias 'A in/6 mm thick Salt, as needed
about 20 minutes. Let the tart shells cool completely. 8 . Evenly distribute the reserved onions and garlic between the cooled tart shells. Arrange the reserved vegetable mixture in circles over the onions. Bake the tarts in a 350°F/i77°C oven to warm through,
Ground black pepper, as needed
about 10 minutes. Garnish with basil and serve im
2 tbsp /6 g chopped thyme
mediately.
1 o z/2 8 g pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped PATE BRISEE
NOTE: Pate brisee can be held in the refrigerator or freezer. Thaw the frozen dough at room temperature.
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg cake flour
3A o z/21 g salt lib 2 o z/5 1 0 g butter, cubed
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water 4 o z/1 1 3 g eggs GARNISH Basil chiffonade, as needed
1 . Heat half of the olive oil in a medium sauteuse over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat until ten der, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant. Remove from the pan and reserve.
2 . Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Saute the zucchini, yellow squash, and eggplant separately until tender. Remove each from the pan and reserve in a bowl.
3 . Add the tomatoes to the reserved zucchini, squash, and eggplant, toss to combine, and season with salt and pepper. Add the thyme and olives and toss to combine. Reserve.
4 . To make the pate brisee, combine the flour and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the butter and mix until crumbly.
Chapter 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
701
Sauteed Arugula Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg arugula 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable or olive oil
'/2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai) Makes 10 servings
2'/2 ts p /7.50 g minced garlic
2 lb /9 0 7 g baby bok choy
Salt, as needed
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
8 garlic cloves, sliced thin Salt, as needed
1 . Wash, rinse, and drain the arugula, removing any tough or split stems.
2 . Heat the oil in a very large saute pan, add the shal lots, and saute over medium heat until they begin to turn translucent, l to 2 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until it begins to release its aroma.
3 . Add the arugula, filling the pan (the arugula will wilt down as it sautes), and cooking in batches if neces sary. Toss or turn the arugula as it cooks.
4 . Saute the arugula until it is completely wilted and tender and very hot. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
Sugar, as needed
1 . Rinse the bok choy, and drain well. Cut the bok choy lengthwise in half. Score the cores to promote even cooking.
2 . Blanch the bok choy in boiling salted water, shock in an ice water bath, and drain well.
3 . Heat the oil in a wok, add the garlic, and stir-fry un til aromatic and light brown.
4 . Add the bok choy and stir-fry until the bok choy is just cooked through. Add a small amount of water to the wok to keep the garlic from burning, if neces sary. Season with salt and sugar.
5 . Serve immediately.
702
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai)
Summer Squash Noodles
Belgian Endive a la Meuniere
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 6 0 g yellow squash, cut in long julienne
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Belgian endive
12 o z/3 6 0 g zucchini, cut in long julienne
1 o z/2 8 g salt, plus as needed
12 o z/3 6 0 g leeks, light green and white parts only, cut in long julienne and blanched
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
12 o z/3 6 0 green beans, blanched and split lengthwise
V/ 2 o z/4 3 g butter Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
3A oz/2 1 g chopped herbs, such as tarragon, basil, or cilantro
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL milk Ground black pepper, as needed
Z A o z/6 4 g all-purpose flour 3 tb sp /4 5 mL clarified butter or oil 3 o z/8 5 g whole butter
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
1 . Toss the squash, zucchini, leeks, and green beans together in a large bowl.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium
1 . Remove any bruised or damaged outer endive leaves and trim the bottoms. Bring a large pot of water to a
heat. Add the vegetables and saute, tossing frequently,
boil and season with the salt, sugar, and 1 tbsp/15 mL
until they are heated through and tender, about 5
of the lemon juice. Add the endive and simmer until
minutes.
partially cooked, about 3 minutes. Drain, shock in an
3 . Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Add the chopped herbs and serve immediately.
ice water bath, and drain well.
2 . Trim the endive cores with a sharp knife (there should be enough core left to hold the leaves together) and flatten each head slightly by pressing down on it with the palm of your hand.
3 . To finish the endive, dip each head in milk, season with salt and pepper, and dredge in flour, shaking off the excess.
4 . Heat the clarified butter in a large heavy saute pan over medium-high heat. Saute the endive until crisp and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total cook ing time. Remove the endive from the pan and keep warm.
5 . Pour off any excess fat from the pan. Add the whole butter and cook over medium heat until it begins to brown and take on a nutty aroma. Add the remain ing lemon juice and the parsley and swirl until the mixture thickens slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the pan sauce over the endive and serve immediately.
704
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
d i
B r o c c o l i
c o n A g l i o
e
Jardiniere Vegetables Makes 10 servings 9 o z/2 5 5 g carrots, cut into batonnet 9 o z/2 5 5 g celery, cut into batonnet 9 o z/2 5 5 g white turnips, cut into batonnet 9 o z/2 5 5 g shelled green peas
Pepperoncino)
4 o z /1 1 3 g b u tte r
Makes 10 servings
Salt, as needed
4 lb/1.81 kg broccoli rabe, washed and tough stems trimmed 2 fl o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
vegetable recipes
Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper (Cime
Sugar, as needed 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced garlic VA ts p /2.50 g red pepper flakes 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed Salt, as needed 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
VA ts p /4 .5 0 g finely grated lemon zest
1 . In a large stockpot, blanch the carrots, celery, tur nips, and peas separately in boiling salted water, 1 to 2 minutes, drain, shock in an ice bath, and drain again.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the vegetables (by individual servings or batches) and season with salt, pepper, and sugar.
1 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Working in small batches, add the broccoli rabe and cook until tender but firm, about 3 minutes. Shock the broccoli
Toss or stir until the vegetables are evenly coated with the butter and very hot.
3 . Add parsley and serve immediately.
rabe in an ice water bath and drain very well. Refrig erate if it is to be finished later.
2 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and pepper flakes and saute un til the garlic is lightly golden, about 2 minutes.
3 . Add the broccoli rabe and stock and cook over high heat, mixing the broccoli rabe thoroughly to distrib ute the garlic and peppers evenly. Cook until most of the liquid evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Season with salt and lemon juice. Serve immedi ately, garnished with the zest.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
705
Vegetable Julienne Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 13 g carrots, cut into julienne
Macedoine of Vegetables Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 13 g celery, cut into julienne 2 o z/5 7 g butter 4 o z/1 1 3 g leeks, light green and white parts only, cut into julienne
2 o z/5 7 g large-dice mushrooms
2 o z/5 7 g butter
V i o z/1 4 g minced shallot
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g large-dice onion
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g large-dice celery
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice zucchini
1 . In a large stock pot, blanch the carrots, celery, and leeks separately in boiling salted water, l to 2 min utes. Drain, shock in an ice water bath, and drain again.
2 . Heat the butter in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the vegetables (by individual servings or batches) and season with salt and pepper. Toss or stir until the vegetables are evenly coated with the butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice yellow squash 6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice carrots, steamed or boiled until tender
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice white turnips, steamed or boiled until tender 6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice rutabagas, steamed or boiled until tender 2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red pepper
and very hot. Minced chives, as needed
3 . Serve immediately. Chopped tarragon, as needed Basil chiffonade, as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the mushrooms and shallots and cook, stirring from time to time, until the juices have reduced, 2 to 3 minutes.
2 . Add the onions and celery and saute until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.
3 . Add the zucchini and squash and saute until they are tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and red peppers. Saute them until heated through, 2 minutes more.
5 . Add chives, tarragon, and basil and toss to mix. Sea son with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or hold hot for service. If holding hot for service, add the herbs just before serving.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S . A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes
10
servings
1 . Slice the zucchini on the bias, V2 in/i cm thick. Blot dry with paper towels.
2 . Pour the oil into a medium saute pan or cast-iron 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL milk
1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted
skillet to about 2 in/5 cm deep. Heat to 325°F/i63°C.
3 . Season the zucchini slices with salt, dredge in flour,
4 eggs
and shake off the excess. Dip them into the batter to
12 o z/3 4 0 g all-purpose flour
coat both sides evenly. Allow any excess batter to drain
1 tb s p /1 5 g sugar 2 lb /9 0 7 g spinach, blanched, squeezed dry, coarsely chopped 1 ts p /3 g salt
back into the bowl. Carefully lay the zucchini in the hot fat. Pan fry on the first side until browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn carefully and complete cooking on the second side until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes more.
vegetable recipes
Spinach Pancakes
4 . Remove the zucchini from the oil, blot on paper
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper
towels, and adjust seasoning with salt, if necessary.
V* ts p /0.50 g freshly grated nutmeg
Serve immediately.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 . Mix the milk, butter, and eggs until thoroughly combined.
2 . In a separate large bowl, stir together the flour and sugar. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the milk mixture. Stir until a smooth batter forms.
3 . Combine the spinach with the batter and season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
4 . Heat a small amount of the oil in a medium saute
Corn Fritters M akes
10
servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg corn kernels, freshly cooked or thawed frozen
2 eggs, beaten 2 o z/5 7 g Cheddar, grated (optional) 4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
pan or cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Ladle
2 o z/5 7 g sugar
2 fl oz/6o mL of the batter into the pan for each pan
1 ts p /3 g salt, as needed
cake. Cook the pancakes for 2 to 3 minutes, until the undersides are golden brown.
5 . Turn the pancakes and continue to cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes more. Serve immediately or transfer to a holding pan to keep them hot for service.
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper 8 fl o z/2 4 0
mL
oil, or as needed
1 . Combine the corn and eggs, and the cheese, if desired, in a small bowl. Combine the flour, sugar, salt, and pepper in a separate bowl and make a well in the cen ter. Add the corn mixture to the flour mixture all at once. Stir just until a relatively smooth batter forms.
Pan-Fried Zucchini M akes
10
servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg zucchini 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil
V2 o z/1 4 g salt
2 . Heat about V2 in/i cm of the oil in a medium saute pan or cast-iron skillet to 365°F/i85°C. Ladle 2 tbsp/30 mL of batter for each fritter into the oil.
3 . Fry on the first side until golden brown, 2 to 3 min utes. Turn once and finish frying on the second side, 2 minutes more. Blot on paper towels, adjust season ing with salt, if necessary, and serve while very hot.
4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour 1 lb 10 o z /7 3 7 g Beer Batter (page 522)
ch a p te r 22 » C O O K IN G V E G E T A B L E S
707
Vegetable Tempura Makes
10
servings
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
8 f I o z/2 40 mL peanut oil 8 f I o z/2 40 mL sesame oil
Tostones: Slice the p l a n t a i n s i n / 1 cm thick and fry as above. Press them to a thickness o f about ' A in /6 mm w ith a heavy, fla t-b o tto m e d object. Combine 8 f I oz/2 40 mL water, 1 o z/2 8 g salt, and 4 minced garlic cloves. Dip the plantain slices in this mixture. Shake o ff excess water and deep fry a second time. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle w ith salt. Serve immediately.
2 chef’s potatoes, cut into strips Vs to '/* in /3 to 6 mm thick 2 onions, cut into rings Vs to V* in /3 to 6 mm thick 2 carrots, cut into strips Vs to '/t in /3 to 6 mm thick 1 lb /4 5 4 g green beans, cut 2 in /5 cm long
Ratatouille Makes
10
servings
20 shiso leaves
3 f I o z/9 0 mL olive oil, or as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g lotus root, peeled and cut into Vs-\r\/3-mm slices
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice onion
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, or as needed
3/ t oz/21 g minced garlic
1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste
Tempura Batter (page 523), as needed 4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice red pepper 20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tempura Dipping Sauce (page 523) 1 lb /4 5 4 g medium-dice eggplant
1 . Combine the vegetable, peanut, and sesame oils in a deep pan and heat to 330° to 340°F/i66° to 171°C.
2 . Lightly dredge the vegetables in flour, dip in the bat ter, and immediately fry them until crispy and white
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice zucchini
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, seeded, and medium-diced tomato 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265), or as needed
or light golden brown. Work in batches as necessary,
Salt, as needed
frying a single variety of vegetable at a time.
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 . Drain the tempura on a rack lined with paper towels.
V2 o z/1 4 g chopped herbs, such as
4 . Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.
thyme, parsley, and/or oregano
1 . Heat the oil in a large pot or rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent,
Fried Plantain Chips M akes
10
servings
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 3 plantains, green and unripe Salt, as needed
4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until soft, about 1 minute.
2 . Turn the heat to medium-low. Add the tomato paste and cook until it completely coats the onions and develops a deeper color, 1 to 2 minutes.
3 . Add the vegetables in the following sequence: pep pers, eggplant, zucchini, and tomatoes. Cook each vegetable until it softens (2 to 3 minutes each) be
1 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a rondeau or fryer.
2 . Peel the plantains and slice very thin on the bias (about V16 in/1.50 mm).
3 . Fry the plantains, turning often, until they are gold
fore adding the next.
4 . Add the stock and turn the heat to low, allowing the vegetables to stew. (The vegetables should be moist but not soupy.) Stew until the vegetables are tender
en brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Work in batches if neces
and flavorful. Season with salt, pepper, and herbs.
sary. Drain on paper towels and season with salt as
Serve immediately.
soon as they are out of the fryer. Serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Braised Greens Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg collard greens or kale
Braised Fennel in Butter Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced bacon
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced onion
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg fennel
6 o z /1 7 0 g butter 3 garlic cloves, minced 10 f I o z/3 0 0
mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
lt b s p /1 5 g sugar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
1 ham hock
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g grated Parmesan
2 tb s p /3 0 mL cider vinegar
1 . Cut the stalks from the fennel and trim the root 1 . Strip the collard leaves from the stems and cut into bite-size pieces.
2 . In a large saute pan, render the bacon over medium
ends. Cut from the stem to root end to make halves or quarters, depending upon the size of the bulbs.
2 . Heat half of the butter in a medium rondeau over
heat. When the bacon is light gold, add the onions
medium-high heat. Add the fennel, turn to coat
and garlic and sweat until aromatic.
evenly with the butter, and allow the fennel to
3 . Add the greens, deglaze with some of the stock, and reduce by half. Stir in the sugar.
4 . Add the ham hock and the remaining stock. Season with salt and pepper. Braise in a 350°F/i77°C oven until tender, 30 to 45 minutes.
5 . Remove the greens and ham hock from the pan and reserve. Add the vinegar to the juices and reduce the liquid by half. Combine the reduced liquid back with the greens and adjust seasoning with salt and pep per. Remove the meat from the ham hock and add to the finished greens, if desired. Serve immediately.
brown slightly. Add the stock and season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
3 . Bring to a simmer, cover the pan, and braise the fen nel in a 325°F/i63°C oven until it is very tender but still holds its shape, 45 minutes to 1 hour. The liquid should be nearly cooked away; if necessary, simmer over medium heat until it has reduced.
4 . Remove the cover from the pan and sprinkle the Par mesan in an even layer over the fennel. Dot with the remaining butter.
5 . Place the fennel, uncovered, in a 450°F/232°C oven or under a broiler or salamander until the butter and cheese form a golden crust. Serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Braised Romaine
M akes
M akes
10
servings
10
servings
B tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil or rendered bacon fat
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg romaine lettuce
4 o z/1 1 3 g medium-dice onion
2 '/2 o z /7 1 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g peeled, medium-dice Granny Smith apples
5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice onion
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine
5 o z/1 4 2 g thinly sliced carrots
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Brown Veal Stock (page 265), Chicken Stock (page 263), or Vegetable Stock (page 265)
1 o z /2 8 g sugar 2 o z/5 7 g red currant jelly
1 cinnamon stick 1 clove
Salt, as needed
vegetable recipes
Braised Red Cabbage
Ground black pepper, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g slab bacon, rind removed and sliced Vs in /3 mm thick
1 bay leaf B juniper berries 2 lb /90 7g red cabbage chiffonade Vegetable Stock (page 2 6 5 ) or water, as needed
1 . Trim the romaine to remove any blemishes or wilted leaves. Trim the cores of any discoloration. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the whole heads for 1 minute, until the color turns bright and
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
the leaves are softened. Drain the lettuce, rinse in
'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again.
2 . To make individual servings, cut the romaine length 1 . Heat the oil or bacon fat in a large nonreactive pot or
wise into 10 equal wedge-shaped servings. Cut
rondeau over medium-low heat. Add the onions and
away the cores. Roll up each portion into a cylinder,
apples and sweat until the onions are translucent
squeezing out excess water as you roll. To make larger
and the apples are slightly soft, about 5 minutes.
2 !. Add the water, wine, vinegar, sugar, and jelly. The flavor should be tart and strong.
3 . Make a sachet with the cinnamon, clove, bay leaf, and juniper berries. Add the sachet and cabbage to the pan. Cover and braise in a 35o°F/i77°C oven un til the cabbage is tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Check regularly to be sure the liquids have not evaporated completely. Add more stock or water if necessary.
4 . Remove the sachet. Season with the salt and pepper and serve immediately.
servings that can be sliced for service, remove the larger outer leaves and arrange them to form a large rectangle on a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment paper. Remove the cores from the heads and arrange the leaves evenly over the outer leaves. Roll up as for a jelly roll, squeezing to remove the water.
3 . Heat the butter in a medium rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and carrots and sweat over low heat until they are tender and starting to release their juices, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the romaine in an even layer. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Top the romaine with the bacon.
4 . Cover the pan and braise in a 350°F/i77°C oven until the romaine is very tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the cover during the final 10 minutes of cooking time to properly reduce the cooking liquid and brown the bacon.
5 . Remove the romaine and bacon from the braising liq uid and keep warm. Degrease the liquid and adjust sea soning with salt and pepper. Reduce the liquid further to form a sauce and concentrate the flavor, if necessary. 6 . Serve the romaine and bacon with the sauce on heat ed plates.
c h a p te r 22 » C O O KING V E G E T A B L E S
711
Braised Sauerkraut
French-Style Peas
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL rendered pork fa t or vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g pearl onions
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onion
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
7 o z/1 9 8 g peeled and grated Golden Delicious apple
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 shelled green peas
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated chef's potatoes
12 o z/3 4 0 g Boston lettuce chiffonade
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Homemade Sauerkraut (page 593)
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
1 tsp /2 g caraway seeds
Salt, as needed
12 juniper berries
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Brown Pork Stock (page 2 6 4) or Brown Veal Stock (page 263)
3 tb s p /2 5 g all-purpose flour
1 . Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the 1 . Heat the pork fat in a large rondeau over medium
pearl onions and blanch for 1 minute. Remove the
heat. Add the onions and apples and sweat until ten
onions, rinse in cool water until they can be han
der and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes.
dled, and remove the skins.
2 . Add the potatoes and sweat until they appear
2 . Heat 2 oz/57 g of the butter in a large saute pan over
somewhat translucent, a few minutes more. Add
low heat and add the pearl onions. Cook, covered,
the sauerkraut, caraway seeds, juniper berries, and
until they are tender and translucent, 8 to 10
stock and bring to a boil. Cover and braise in a
minutes.
325°F/i63°C oven until the stock has nearly cooked away and the sauerkraut has a good flavor, i to 1V2 hours. If the sauerkraut has too much liquid, place it on top of the stove and reduce the liquid as necessary.
3 . The sauerkraut is ready to serve now, or may be rap idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
3 . Add the peas, lettuce, and stock to the onions. Sea son with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer over low heat and return the lid to the pan. Stew the peas until fully cooked and tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
4 . Blend the remaining butter with the flour and add gradually to the peas in small pieces until the cook ing liquid is lightly thickened. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary and serve on heated plates.
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
The po tato is one o f the most versatile vegetables. It is found in n e a rly jv e ry menu category, as the main component of appetizers souo||pentrees, and side dishes; it is also an important ingredient
in sich preparations as souffles, pancakes, and breads.
potato varieties P o ta to v a rie tie s d iffe r in starch and m o istu re con te n t, skin and fle s h color, and shape. Sw eet p o ta to e s and yams, although n o t b o ta n ica lly re la te d to th e p o ta to , share several ch a ra c te ris tic s w ith it and can be tre a te d in the same manner. Each cooking technique p ro duces a m arke dly d iffe re n t te x tu re , flavo r, and appearance in p o ta to e s. Knowing the na tu ral c h a ra cte ristics o f each kind o f p o ta to and the ways in which a p a rtic u la r tech niq ue can e ith e r enhance o r d e tra c t fro m these c h a ra cte ristics is im p o rta n t to any chef.
LOW M O IS T U R E /H IG H STARCH P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include Idaho or russe t (also known as baking or bakers), purple po ta to e s, and some fin g e rlin g va rie tie s. The higher th e sta rch con tent, the m ore granular and d ry a p o ta to is a fte r it is cooked. The fle s h is easy to fla k e o r mash. These po ta to e s, de sirable fo r baking and pureeing, are also good fo r fry in g because th e lo w -m o istu re co n te n t makes the m less like ly to sp la tte r. Their na tural ten den cy to absorb m o istu re also makes them a good choice fo r scalloped or o th e r en casserole p o ta to dishes.
MODERATE M OISTU R E AND STARCH P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include so-called all-purpose, boiling, ch e fs, Maine, and US 1. It also includes red-skin, w axy yellow (e.g., Yellow Finn and Yukon Gold), and ce rta in fin g e r ling va rie tie s. P ota to es w ith m od era te am ounts o f m o istu re and starch ten d to hold th e ir shape even a fte r th e y are cooked u n til tender. This makes the m a good choice f o r boiling, steam ing, sauteing, oven roa sting , and as a com ponent o f braises and stew s. They are f r e q u e n tly used in p o ta to salads and soups. M any chefs like to use w axy y e llo w p o ta to e s fo r baking, pureeing, and ca sse ro le -style dishes because o f th e ir o u ts ta n d in g flavor.
HIGH M O IS T U R E /L O W STARCH P ota to es in th is ca te g o ry include "new" (any p o ta to th a t is harvested when less than I V 2 in /4 cm in d iam e te r) and some fin g e rlin g va rie tie s. The skin o f new p o ta to e s is te n d e r and does n o t need to be rem oved p rio r to cooking or eating. T heir n a tu ra lly sweet, fre s h fla v o r is be st showcased by sim ple techniques such as boiling, steam ing, or oven roasting.
7H
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
c r o i— B
oiled
In
the
potatoes a b s en c e
are of
a m o n g
aro m atic
the or
sim ple st
of
suppo rting
p r epa r a tio n s f l a v o r s
,
,
w ith
attention
a
s u b t le
m u st
be
,
ea r th y
fo cu sed
fla v o r on
.
good
T E C H N I Q U E A N D C A R E F U L S E L E C T I O N A N D H A N D L I N G O F T H E POTATO I TS EL F. E A C H POTATO V A R I E T Y H A S A U N I Q. U E T E X T U R E A N D T A S T E O N C E B O I L E D . S O M E P O T A T O E S H O L D T H E I R S H A P E E V E N W H E N
i—*•
p
CTQ
BOILED U NT IL V E R Y TEN DER , AN D HA V E A SOFT, SM O O TH C O N S I S T E N C Y . O T H E R S H A V E A M E A L I E R C O N S I S T E N C Y A N D A T E N D E N C Y TO B R E A K A P A R T W H E N F U L L Y C O O K E D . B O T H B O I L E D A N D S T E A M E D
o
P O T A T O E S C A N B E C O O K E D TO A R A N G E O F D O N E N E S S : P A R T I A L L Y C O O K E D F O R S A U T E E D D I S H E S , F U L L Y
P J
COOKED FOR PUREES, AND COOKED AND COOLED FOR SALADS.
o
C+ -
boiling potatoes M o d e ra te - o r h ig h -m o istu re p o ta to e s are a good choice fo r dishes w here th e p o ta to e s are p re sen te d whole, since the y hold th e ir shape when boiled. L o w -m o istu re p o ta to e s are p re fe ra b le fo r purees. Scrub th e p o ta to e s or peel the m and rem ove any eyes and sp ro u ts. P ota to es may be peeled b e fo re boiling; te n d e r-skin n e d fin g e rlin g s o r new p o ta to e s are usually prepared unpeeled, called en chemise in French. If th e p o ta to e s are to be cooked whole, tr y to make sure th e y are s im ila r in size. If necessary, cu t th e p o ta to e s in to regular, even shapes or cook d iffe re n t-s iz e p o ta to e s in separate vessels. Green spo ts in a p o ta to m ust be peeled away com pletely. The green color indicates the presence o f a to xin called solanine, which is harm ful when eaten in large q u an tities. This same to xin is pre sen t in the p o ta to spro uts and eyes; the y should be com p le te ly removed as well. Raw p o ta to e s w ill o xidize and disco lo r a fte r the y are peeled, f ir s t tu rn in g lig h t pink and eventually, dark gray or black. To pre ve n t th is d isco lo ra tio n , subm erge peeled o r cut raw p o ta to e s in cold w a te r u n til tim e to cook. When possible, use the soaking w a te r to cook the p o ta to e s so any n u trie n ts leached in to it are retaine d. However, p o ta to e s are be st peeled ju s t p rio r to cooking. To ensure th a t p o ta to e s cook evenly, s ta rt the m in a cold liquid, usually w ater, though som e recipes sp e cify s to ck or m ilk f o r a special flavo r, te x tu re , or appearance. S alt is usu ally added to th e cooking liquid. If using salt, add enough to enhance th e p o ta to 's flavor. Spices can be added to th e b o ilin g liquid as well; s a ffro n o r tu rm e ric gives bo ile d p o ta to e s a golden co lo r and special flavo r. If parcooking, add s lig h tly m ore s a lt than if fu lly cooking th e p o ta to e s. P ota to es should never be shocked in cold w a te r a fte r cooking. The p o ta to e s w ill absorb w a te r as th e y cool and becom e unpalatable. A p ro p e rly boiled p o ta to has a delicate arom a and fla v o r and a s o ft te x tu re . Boiled p o ta toe s to be served as is should hold th e ir shape but s till be e xtre m e ly tender. Seasonings add ed to th e cooking water, as w ell as any a d ditiona l fin ish in g or garnishing ingredients, should be a p pro pria te to the fin ish e d dish. The eq uipm en t needed fo r b o iling p o ta to e s is sim ple: a cooking p o t large enough to hold th e w a te r and po ta to e s, a s lo tte d spoon or colander f o r draining th e p o ta to e s, and ho ld ing containers. S heet pans may be used to hold th e p o ta to e s in a single layer fo r quick coo lin g or drying.
ch a p te r 23 » CO O KING POTATOES
715
basic formula Boiled Potatoes (10 servings)
Enough cold liquid to completely submerge the potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate- or high-
Salt and other seasonings
moisture potatoes (weighed before peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
Finishing and garnishing ingredients
m eth o d at-a-glan ce e x p e rt tips |
1. Place the potatoes in a pot. 2. Add enough cold liquid to
cover them.
Potatoes can be prepped diffe ren tly, dependingon
3. Bring the liquid to a boil.
the desired end result. The prep method used can also have an effect on flavor
4 . Reduce the heat to
and texture of the finished product. Factors to consider include:
establish a simmer.
S IZ E OF POTATO / PEELED V E R S U S S K IN ON / T Y P E OF CUT
5. Simmer to the correct
doneness. 6. Drain and dry the potatoes. Serve immediately, puree, or hold fo r another use.
Other ingredients
can be added to develop additional flavor. Add
at the appropriate time, usually after the potatoes have been boiled: FRESH HERB S / GR OU N D S P IC E S / R OASTED G ARLIC
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
1. place the potatoes
in a p o t o f an ap
p ro p ria te size and cover c o m p le te ly w ith cold w a te r. Add s a lt a n d /o r o th e r seasonings as necessary to th e cooking liquid. S ta rtin g th e coo kin g process w ith cold liquid allow s the heat to p e n e tra te slo w ly and evenly, g ivin g th e p o ta to e s a u n ifo rm te x tu re w ith o u t ove rco o kin g th e e x te rio r flesh . B rin g to a bo il and cook a t a sim m e r o r low bo il u n til the p o ta to e s are done. To te s t f o r doneness, ta s te a piece or pierce w ith the tin e s o f a fo rk . If th e re is no resista nce , the p o ta to e s are p ro p e rly cooked. If th e p o ta to e s are to be only p a rtia lly cooked, th e re should be in crea sing re sista n ce as th e fo rk is in se rte d deeper in to th e p o ta to . Drain the p o ta to e s as soon as th e y are done and dry the m to im p rove th e ir fla v o r and te x tu re . P o ta to e s can be dried by re tu rn in g th e m to th e p o t and placin g th e pot, uncovered, over v e ry low heat. Or spread the m o u t in a single layer on a she et pan and place th e pan in a w arm oven. P o ta to e s are s u ffic ie n tly d ried when stea m no lo n ger rises fro m them . If th e p o ta to e s w ere cooked in th e skin, rem ove the skin as soon as th e y are cool enough to handle. Use a p a r ing k n ife to rem ove eyes o r black spots. To hold p o ta to e s fo r a s h o rt tim e (less than an hour), cover the m loosely w ith a damp, clean c lo th and keep warm .
STEAMING POTATOES Steaming can be used as an alternative
When using a stovetop steamer, re
to boiling. To properly steam potatoes,
member that the larger the potatoes, the
prepare them as for boiling, taking care to
longer the cooking time and the more
make even cuts or to select like-size whole
liquid will be required. Bring the cooking
potatoes to cook in the same batch. The
liquid in the bottom of the steamer to a
potatoes should be arranged in even layers
rolling boil before adding the potato-filled
on racks or in perforated hotel pans or in
inserts or tiers. The potatoes should be
serts to let the steam circulate completely
arranged so that the steam can circulate
and encourage thorough, rapid cooking.
around them. Do not stack the potatoes
Convection or pressure steamers are
or overcrowd the tiers or inserts. Various
good for steaming large quantities of po
herbs, spices, or aromatic vegetables may
tatoes. They allow for the preparation of
be added to the cooking liquid or directly
batches as needed throughout a meal
to the potatoes to allow the steam to carry
period, and they are well suited to the
the flavor to the potatoes.
intense demands of a banquet or institu tional feeding situation.
c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES
717
P U R E E D POTATOES A R E AN IMPORTA NT BASIC PR EPAR ATION. T h e P U R E E CAN BE B L E N D E D WITH MILK A N D B U T T E R TO M A K E W H I P P E D P O T A T O E S , W I T H E G G Y O L K S T O M A K E D U C H E S S E P O T A T O E S O R P O T A T O C R O O . U E T T E S , O R W I T H P A T E A C H O U X TO F R Y A S P O M M E S L O R E T T E . P O T A T O E S TO B E P U R E E D A R E F I R S T C O O K E D B Y B O I L I N G , S T E A M I N G , O R B A K I N G IN T H E S K I N .
pureeing potatoes Low- to m o d e ra te -m o istu re po ta to e s, such as russe ts and m ealy ye llo w p o ta to e s, make th e be st purees. Have ready boile d or steam ed p o ta to e s th a t have been drained and dried and th a t are s till very hot. H ot baked p o ta to e s may also be used. In a d d itio n to s a lt and pepper, which are stan dard seasonings f o r pureed po tatoes, many o th e r in g re d ie n ts may be added f o r special fla vo rs. A fte r th e y are pureed, the po ta to e s may be fla v o re d w ith oil, b u tte r, cream, garlic, o r o th e r veg etab le purees. A ll ad d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts should e ith e r be heated to th e same te m p e ra tu re as the puree or at room te m p e ra tu re . Choices include m ilk or cream, s o ft (no t m elte d) b u tte r, chicken or m eat bro th , g a rlic, sha llo ts, green onions, horseradish, m ustard, cheese, o r purees o f o th e r veg etables, such as parsnips o r celeriac. Egg yolks or pate a choux are needed f o r duchesse and L o re tte p o ta to e s. A fo o d m ill or p o ta to rice r gives th e be st te x tu re f o r pureed po ta to e s. Use a handheld p o ta to m asher fo r a coarser te x tu re . Pureed p o ta to e s may be blended w ith o th e r in g re d i ents by hand using a wooden spoon or w ith an e le c tric m ixe r fo r w hipped po ta to e s. Food processors and blenders should be avoided to pre ven t the p o ta to e s fro m ta k in g on a gluey te x tu re . A p a s try bag w ith s ta r a n d /o r plain tip s w ill be needed if th e puree is to be decorativ e ly piped on to pla te s o r shaped in various ways.
718
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
pureeing potatoes
Q basic formula Pureed Potatoes (10 servings) 4 lb/1.81 kg low-moisture potatoes (weighed before peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
12 to 16 fl oz/360 to 480 mL milk or heavy cream 4 to 8 o z/1 13 to 227 g butter, soft Salt, pepper, and/or other seasonings
m eth o d at-a-glan ce ex p ert tips
j. Cook the potatoes by boiling, steaming, or baking until they are tender. 2. Dry steamed or boiled
potatoes on a sheet pan in a medium oven. 3. Puree the potatoes
through a ricer, food mill, or sieve. 4 . Add eggs, heated milk or
cream, or s o ft butter, as needed. 5. Adjust the seasoning as
needed. 6 . Serve or hold the potatoes
warm.
Basic pureed potatoes
contain milk, butter, salt, and pepper,
but there are many additional ingredients that can be added or substituted to suit your needs or taste.
Milk is probably the most common liquid usedfor making pureed potatoes. Try substituting some or all of the milk with one of the following to create a different flavor and texture: BROTH (V E G E TA B LE , POULTRY, BEEF, OR V E A L ) / H E A V Y C RE A M / STOCK
Other COmmOn flavoring
and seasoning ingredients include,
but are not limited to: M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN O N IO N S / CHO PPED HERBS SUCH AS PARSLEY, R O SEM A R Y , OR SAGE / GRATED C HEESE / O L IV E O IL / PUREED VEGETAB LES SU CH AS CAR R O TS, B U T T E R N U T S Q U A SH , OR C E LER IA C / R OASTED OR S A U TEED GARLIC
c h a p te r 23 » C O O K IN G POTATOES
719
1. cook the potatoes by boiling, ste a m ing, or baking u n til very tender. W arm th e m ilk or cream. P o ta to e s m ay be peeled and q u a rte re d or cubed b e fo re coo kin g to sh o rte n coo kin g and d ryin g tim e when b o iling (see page 7 1 5 ) or ste a m in g (see page 717). To bake po ta to e s f o r use in purees, leave the m w hole and in th e skin (see page 72 3). Season, pierce, and bake u n til very tender. When th e y are done, im m e d ia te ly halve the m and scoop o u t the fle sh . Use a clean side to w e l to p ro te c t your hands as you w ork. Push hot, drained, and dried p o ta to e s th ro u g h a w arm ed fo o d m ill o r ricer. For b e st resu lts, th e p o ta to e s m ust be h o t and th e e q u ip m e n t heated. P rop erly cooked p o ta to e s should pass th ro u g h th e fo o d m ill w ith no re sis tance. Check th e bow l p e rio d ic a lly to make sure th a t it is n o t g e ttin g o ve rfu ll. Do n o t use a b len der or fo o d p ro ces sor; th e te x tu re o f th e p o ta to may becom e soupy, sticky, and unable to hold its shape. Large q u a n titie s o f p o ta to e s may be run th ro u g h th e coarse die o f a g rin d e r d ire c tly in to th e bow l o f a mixer.
m eth o d in d etail 2. add seasonings
and any a d d itio n a l in g re
d ie n ts as desired or acco rding to th e recipe. Be sure th a t o th e r in g re d ie n ts are a t th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re when added. M ilk or cream should be a t or near a simm er. B u t te r should be s o ft. Season th e p o ta to puree c a re fu lly w ith s a lt and pepper. S tir or fo ld in such fla v o rin g s as pureed roa ste d garlic. S tir w ith a spoon by hand or use th e paddle o f an e le c tric mixer. Do n o t ove rw o rk; th is w ill release to o much starch fro m th e p o ta to e s, g ivin g th e puree a heavy, s tic k y con sistency.
720
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
pureeing potatoes
3. to make duchesse potatoes, blend p o ta to puree as th e recipe on page 7 3 7 sp e cifie s and pipe even p o rtio n s on p a rc h m e n t-lin e d sheet pans. P o ta to puree can also be m ounded o r piped on to serving plates. Pureed p o ta to e s may be held f o r service over a hot w a te r bath o r in a stea m ta b le , covered d ire c tly on the surface w ith p la s tic w rap. Do n o t hold purees f o r to o long, o r th e q u a lity w ill begin to degrade.
4. bake duchesse potatoes u n til a rich golden brown, as shown here. A good p o ta to puree is sm ooth, lig h t in te x tu re , and able to hold its shape when dropped fro m a spoon. It should be a c o n s is te n tly cream y puree, w ith no evidence th a t f a t has separated fro m the puree. Purees to be used in dishes th a t are sub seq ue ntly baked, sauteed, o r deep frie d may be re frig e ra te d f o r up to several hours. Once th e fin a l coo kin g is com p le te d, the y should be served im m e d ia te ly.
c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES
721
T h e c l a s s i c b a k e d p o t a t o is s e r v e d in i t s c r i s p SK IN a n d g a r n i s h e d w i t h b u t t e r , s a l t , p e p p e r , AN D PE R H A PS S O U R CR EA M AN D C H IV E S . W H E N
P O T A T O E S A R E C O O K E D IN A N O V E N W I T H O U T A N Y
A D D E D L I Q . U I D OR S T E A M , T H E Y
D E V E L O P A N I N T E N S E F L A V O R A N D A D R Y , L I G H T T E X T U R E . HlGH"
STARCH
OR RU S S E T S
POTATOES
LIK E
ID A H O S
BECOME
FLUFFY
AND
ABSORBENT. THE
H IG H E R TH E
M O I S T U R E C O N T E N T O F T H E PO T A T O , T H E C R E A M I E R A N D M O I S T E R T H E B A K E D P O T A T O W I L L BE.
baking and roasting potatoes Baked p o ta to e s are o fte n served as is, w ith th e ir skins, b u t th e re are o th e r uses and p re se n ta tio n s fo r them . The fle sh can be scooped fro m th e shell and pureed. This puree can be served on its own o r re tu rn e d to th e h o llo w e d -o u t skin in th e p re p a ra tio n known as s tu ffe d or tw ice -b a ke d p o ta to e s. When oven roasting, th e p o ta to e s are cooked in oil, b u tte r, or rendered ju ice s fro m a ro a ste d ite m and cooked u n til brow ned on the ou tside and com p le te ly te n d e r on th e inside. L o w -m o istu re p o ta to e s are ge ne rally be st fo r baking, although yellow w axy p o ta to e s also yie ld good resu lts. Low- o r h ig h -m o istu re p o ta to e s may be used f o r oven roasting. Scrub p o ta to e s well. For a re la tiv e ly th ick-skin n e d p o ta to , a brush w o rks well. For new po ta to e s, use a cloth. B lo t th e p o ta to e s d ry b e fo re placing the m in a pan, to prevent an excess o f steam when the y s ta r t to bake. Pierce the skin in a fe w places to allow the steam th a t builds up du rin g baking to escape. Never w rap th e p o ta to in fo il b e fo re baking; th e re s u lt is sim ila r to steam ing. The skin w ill not becom e crisp, and th e re is a no ticea ble fla v o r d iffe re n ce . For th e same reasons, baked p o ta to e s cannot be prepared succe ssfully in a m icrow ave oven. Some chefs believe th a t baking p o ta to e s on a bed o f s a lt or rubbing th e skin lig h tly w ith oil encourages the de velopm e nt o f a crisp skin and a delicate, f lu f f y in te rio r. For ove n-ro asted po ta to e s, scrub o r peel them and cu t in to the desired shape. Toss in fa t (fa t and d ripp ing s fro m roa ste d m eats, oil, c la rifie d b u tte r, lard, goose fa t, and so on) and season as desired w ith s a lt and pepper, fre s h o r d ried herbs, a n d /o r spices. Evaluate the q u a lity o f the fin ish e d baked or roa ste d po tatoes. A p ro p e rly baked p o ta to has very crisp skin and is te n d e r enough to mash easily when fu lly cooked. Serve baked or ro a ste d p o ta to e s as soon as th e y are done. This assures the b e st possible flavo r, good te x tu re , and o p tim a l service te m p e ra tu re . E quipm ent needs fo r baking p o ta to e s are m inim al. The only tru ly e sse ntia l piece o f eq uipm en t is the oven. P ota to es can be placed d ire c tly on the oven racks; the y can also be arranged on she et pans, m aking it easier to move the m in and o u t o f the oven, p a rtic u la rly when dealing w ith large q u a n titie s. Pureeing equipm ent, such as a p o ta to rice r o r a fo o d m ill, is also needed if s tu ffin g the p o ta to e s. Flave holding and serving pieces available as necessary. For ove n-ro asted po ta to e s, sheet pans or shallow ro a stin g pans th a t can hold the p o ta to e s in a single layer are needed. Also needed are u te n sils f o r s tirrin g the p o ta to e s as th e y ro a st and holding and serving pieces.
722
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
baking and roasting potatoes
Q basic formula Baked Potatoes
Roasted Potatoes
(10 servings)
(10 servings)
10 baking potatoes (about 6 oz/170 g each) or 4 lb/1.81 kg low-moisture or yellow-flesh potatoes, scrubbed Salt or oil to lightly rub on the skin of the potato (optional)
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate- to highmoisture potatoes (weighed before peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes Enough cooking fat to lightly coat the potatoes
Finishing and garnishing ingredients Salt and other seasonings Finishing and garnishing ingredients
m eth o d at-a-glan ce 1. Scrub the potatoes and pierce th e ir skins. ( O ptional: Rub them w ith oil or salt.) 2. Place the potatoes in a hot
oven. 3. Bake or roast them until
ex p ert tips Additional ingredients
can be added to develop more flavor.
Add at the appropriate time. Additional ingredients or garnishes for baked potatoes are generally added after the potatoes have been baked, whereas additional ingredients can be added to the potatoes prior to roasting to infuse flavor.
tender. O L IV E OIL / RAW OR R O ASTED GA R LIC / RAW OR ROASTED O N IO N S / CHOPPED
4. Serve or hold the potatoes.
H ERB S, SUCH AS PA RSLEY, R O SE M A R Y, OR SAGE / M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN O N IO N S /G R A T E D CHEESE
ch a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES
723
1. to bake potatoes whole
in th e skin,
scrub them , b lo t dry, and rub w ith oil or s a lt if desired. Pierce the m w ith a fo rk or skew er to le t steam escape as th e p o ta to e s bake. W hole p o ta to e s may be placed on th e oven racks or on sh e e t pans. If placed on sheet pans, tu rn th e p o ta to e s once du rin g baking because the side in c o n ta c t w ith th e pan may becom e s lig h tly soggy and the p o ta to e s may n o t cook as evenly. Season the potatoes, pierce, and bake or roa st them un til the y are tender. It takes about 1 hour fo r a 6 -o z /1 7 0 -g p o ta to to bake a t 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C . To te s t fo r doneness, pierce th e p o ta to w ith a skew er or th e tin e s o f a fo rk . If th e re is no re sista n ce when it e n te rs the flesh , the p o ta to is done. Serve baked and ove n -ro a ste d p o ta to e s im m e dia te ly. If th is is n o t possible, th e y can be held, uncovered, f o r less than an hour in a w arm place. However, th e steam tra p p e d in th e in te rio r can cause th e crisp skin to become soggy over tim e . S tu ffe d p o ta to e s may be prepared in advance and held, covered, and re frig e ra te d . Reheat and brown in a h o t oven ju s t p rio r to service. NOTE: For oven roasting, scrub, dry, and then cut the
m eth o d in d etail
p o t a t o e s in to a un ifo rm shape i f desired. Peeling the p o t a t o e s is op tio nal, as some chefs p r e f e r leaving the skin on f o r a d i f f e r e n t t e x t u re an d increased n u tritio n a l value. A rran ge the p o t a t o e s in a single la yer on a sheet pa n o r in a r o a s tin g pan. S t ir ove n -ro a ste d p o ta t o e s as o f t e n as necessary durin g the ro a s tin g t im e to ensure even browning. To t e s t f o r doneness, t a s t e a piece or pierce i t w ith a fork.
724
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
otatoes
en
c a s s e r o le
are
baked
in c o m b i n a t i o n
w ith
c r e a m or
or
a
c u st a rd
. S
c a llo p e d
,
au
DIS HE S P R E P A R E D EN C A S S E R O L E ,
P E E L E D A N D S L I C E D P O T A T O E S ( E I T H E R R A W O R P A R C O O K E D TO S P E E D B A K I N G T I M E ) A R E C O M B I N E D WITH F L A V O R E D H E A V Y C R EA M , A S AU CE , OR U N C O O K E D CU STARD, AN D TH EN S L O W L Y B A K E D UNT IL THE P OT AT O ES A R E E X T R E M E L Y T E N D E R B U T S E T W E L L E N O U G H TO H O L D A S H A P E W H E N C U T F O R S ER V I C E .
baking potatoes en Low-moisture potatoes, because of their tendency to absorb liquid, produce casseroled potatoes that are very tender. Yellow-f lesh potatoes are also often prepared en casserole;
baking potatoes en casserole
P
GRATIN, AN D DA U PH I N O I S E POTATOES A R E A L L GOOD E X A M P L E S . F
these have a slightly more noticeable texture and a golden color. Scrub and peel the potatoes and remove the eyes. Thinly slice the potatoes or cut into even dice. Thoroughly dry raw potatoes that have been held in water before combining them with the other ingredients. Excess water can adversely affect the flavor and final texture of the dish. Blot dry parcooked potatoes. Have the liquid component of the dish (cream, custard, or stock, fo r example) hot be fore combining it with the potatoes. This allows the dish to reach cooking temperature more quickly, thus shortening the cooking time; it also allows for the infusion of flavors from ingredients like herbs and spices. Salt and pepper are basic for any en casserole dish. Other spices are often required. Many of these dishes call for one or more grated cheeses, such as Gruyere and/or Parme san. Additional ingredients may be used to introduce color, flavor, and texture. Common options include herbs, mushrooms, mustard, and bread crumbs. En casserole dishes are prepared in hotel pans or similar baking pans and dishes. Lib erally grease the baking pan or dish with butter or oil to prevent sticking. Additional help fu l—but not necessarily essential—equipment includes a mandoline fo r cutting evenly thin slices of potato and a large offset spatula for serving individual portions of the dish.
c h a p te r 23 » CO O KING POTATOES
725
basic formula Potatoes en Casserole ( 1 0 servings)
3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg low-moisture or waxy yellow potatoes (weighed before peeling and cutting), or
24 to 30 fl oz/720 to 900 mL liquid (heavy cream, milk, halfand-half, stock, or sauce)
2 to 5 oz/113 to 142 g grated cheese or other topping (optional)
2 or 3 eggs or egg yolks (optional)
2 lb 12 oz/1.25 kg prepped potatoes
method at-a-glance 1. Layer the sliced potatoes in a buttered pan. 2. Add the heated cream,
sauce, or custard. 3. Shake the pan to distribute
the ingredients evenly and cover loosely with fo il 4. Bake the potatoes in a
medium oven until they are tender. 5. Top w ith bread crumbs,
Use flavo rful liquids to develop additional flavor and texture: BROTH (VEG E TA B LE , POULTRY, BEEF, OR V E A L ) / H E A V Y CREA M / STOCK
Additional ingredients
can be added to develop more flavor.
Some should be added into the potato mixture, while others are used as a gar nish or topping: R OASTED OR SA U TE E D GA R LIC / S A U TEE D O N IO N S / M IN C E D C H IV E S OR GREEN O N IO N S / CHO PPED HERBS, SUCH AS PARSLEY, R O S EM A RY, OR SAGE / GRATED CHEESE
butter, and grated cheese and broil briefly. 6 . Serve or hold the potatoes.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
baking potatoes en casserole
1. use a mandoline to produce very thin, even slices of potato quickly and efficiently. Use lowmoisture or waxy yellow potatoes. Parcook in the liquid called fo r in the recipe, if de sired. Simmer the potatoes until they are cooked halfway. They should still have a slight crunch but be yielding to the bite. If the potatoes are overcooked at this point, the re sulting dish will be mushy and will lack the distinctive lay ering when sliced. If the potatoes are undercooked in the simmering liquid, the resulting dish wilt still be crunchy after baking.
method in detail 2. layer the potatoes evenly (slight ly shingling them) in a buttered baking pan. Arrange raw or parcooked potatoes on a slight shingle in single, uniform layers, separating the slices so they will cook evenly. Add aromatic ingredients and seasonings, such as sliced garlic, cheese, or salt and pepper, to each layer for the best dis tribution of flavor (or infuse some into the cooking liquid). Pour a small amount of cooking liquid over each layer.
c h a p te r 23 » C O O K IN G POTATOES
727
3. pour the rest of the hot cooking liquid evenly over the potatoes after assembly. Have cream, sauces, and drippings very hot; custards should be heated but not at a boil. Shake the pan gently to distribute the liquid evenly between the layers. Add topping ingredients now or after baking, as necessary. Many en casserole dishes are referred to as gratins. The surface of the gratin gradually browns and forms a crust. Bake in a low oven (300° to 325°F/149° to 163°C) until the potatoes are just tender and the top is golden brown. This temperature for baking avoids curdling, es pecially with custards. A very creamy texture can best be achieved by baking en casserole dishes in a hot water bath. If the top begins to brown too quickly, reduce the oven temperature or cover the dish with aluminum foil. If the potatoes are done before the top browns, place the dish briefly under a salamander or broiler to brown once the potatoes are tender.
Hi
method in detail 4. in a good potatoes en casserole, the potatoes are moist and tender; they hold their shape when cut into servings and placed on the plate. The sauce is thick and very smooth, not runny, grainy, or curdled. The top should be brown and crisp fo r extra flavor. These dishes are particularly suitable for banquet be cause they are easily divided into servings. En casserole potato dishes can be held throughout a typical service period. Cover loosely with foil and hold in a warm place. If necessary, cool and refrigerate. Slice the potatoes into portions and reheat in an oven or brown lightly under a salamander or broiler just before serving.
728
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
om e
fr ies
s a u t e in g
. S
,
potatoes
a u t eed
interior
. Th e
cho ices
ran g e
of b u tter
,
n n a
,
potatoes
cooking fro m
to t h e
A
h ash
co m bin e
fat p l a y s
the taste
m o re
b r o w n s
of
a
a
,
rosti
b ro w n ed
significant
A
n n a
,
-s
t y l e
rustic flav o r of hash
a n d
L
a n d
crisp
ro le
y o n n a is e
in t h e
or rosti
potatoes
exterio r
flav o r
of
w ith the
potatoes co o ked
b ro w n s or h o m e
a re a
pr epa red
,
t e n d e r
finished
by
moist
dish
,
and
in l i b e r a l a m o u n t s
fries sa u teed
in l a r d
,
oil
,
or
D U C K FAT.
sauteing potatoes
sauteing potatoes
H
The key to successful sauteed potato dishes is in preparing the potatoes so that they be come fully cooked just as the exterior has finished developing a good color and texture. Moderate-moisture potatoes give the best texture and appearance to sauteed dishes. Scrub and peel the potatoes, and remove the eyes. Cut the potatoes into even slices, dice, julienne, tourne, or balls. If the potatoes are peeled and cut in advance, hold them sub merged in cold water until it is time to cook them. Drain and blot them dry on paper towels immediately before sauteing to avoid splattering. To shorten the cooking time, partially or fully cook the potatoes in advance by steaming or boiling. Drain and dry them as described on page 717. Different kinds of cooking fat may be used, singly or in combination, for the best flavor in the finished dish. They include vegetable oil, olive oil, clarified butter, or rendered duck, goose, or bacon fat. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper during cooking. A wide range of herbs and spices, vegetables, and meats can be combined with potatoes to produce a dish with a special flavor or appearance. Among them are onions, shallots, and green onions; diced green and red peppers; or diced bacon or ham. Finishing ingredients such as heated cream, melted butter, heated sour cream, or grated cheese may be added to the potatoes during the actual cooking process or after they have been cooked until tender. Choose a saute pan large enough to hold the potatoes without crowding. Cast-iron pans are especially good for potatoes because they can create a crust of exceptional crispness. Spatulas, serving pieces, and paper towels for draining excess fa t may also be necessary.
c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES
729
D
basic formula
Sauteed Potatoes ( 1 0 servings)
4 lb/1.81 kg moderate-moisture potatoes (weighed before peeling and cutting), or 3 lb 4 oz/1.47 kg prepped potatoes
Cooking fat (oil, clarified butter, rendered duck, goose, or bacon fat) Salt and other seasonings Finishing and garnishing ingredients
method at-a-glance 1. Heat cooking fa t in a saute pan. 2. Add cut potatoes. 3. Shake the pan vigorously
to coat the potatoes evenly w ith the fat. 4. Saute the potatoes,
stirrin g or flipping them frequently, until golden brown outside and tender inside. 5. Season and serve.
To flavor and season
s a u te e d p o ta to e s , t r y o n e o r a c o m b in a tio n
o f a n y o f th e fo llo w in g .
T h e f a t u s e d f o r fr y in g th e p o t a t o e s w ill im p a r t s ig n ific a n t fla v o r . A n y o f th e fo llo w in g a re c o m m o n ly u s e d a lo n e o r in c o m b in a tio n d e p e n d in g on th e f a t ’s s m o k e p o in t a nd t h e d e s ir e d fla v o r. C LA R IFIE D B UTTER / O L IV E O IL / R END ER ED DUCK OR GOOSE FAT / VEGETABLE OIL
T h e a d d itio n o f c e r ta in m e a ts is a ls o c o m m o n f o r s e a s o n in g s a u te e d p o ta to e s : B A C O N /P A N C E T T A
Herbs, spices, and aromatic vegetables, added at the proper moment, will add flavor and beautiful color: CHO PPED C E LER Y / CHO PPED GA R LIC / CHO PPED HERBS, SUCH AS P A R S LE Y OR R O S E M A R Y OR M IN C E D C H IV E S / CHO PPED JALAPEN O S / CHO PPED PEPPERS
730
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
sauteing potatoes
1. scrub and peel raw potatoes and cut, slice, orgrate them into the desired shape. If the potatoes are held in water before cooking, drain and blot them dry before sauteing. Some dishes may call fo r the potatoes to be simmered until partially cooked either before or after they are sliced or cut. Be sure to use enough cooking fa t and coat the pan generously to prevent the potatoes from sticking and falling apart as they cook. The fa t must be hot so that the crust begins to develop immediately. This crust assures the proper color, flavor, and texture, and also prevents the potatoes from absorbing too much fat. Brown the potatoes on one side evenly before flipping them over. S tir the potatoes or shake the pan occasion ally as the potatoes cook, to brown evenly. In general, add garnishes or finishing ingredients when the potatoes have almost finished cooking. For the best flavor and tex ture, serve sauteed potatoes immediately after they are cooked. If necessary, however, they may be held fo r 5 to 10 minutes, uncovered, in a warm place.
method in detail 2. Sauteed potatoes should have a golden crisp exterior and a tender interior. Properly sauteed potatoes have a rich flavor from the browning of the pota toes as well as from the cooking fa t itself. Use seasonings to bring out the flavor of the potatoes and garnishing and finishing ingredients to further enhance the flavor by add ing their own flavors, textures, and colors to the finished presentation.
ch a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES
731
F
rench fries and s t ea k fr ies
,a
s w e l l a s w a f f l e
-cut,
m a tch stick
,a
nd s o u f f l e potatoes
,are
A L L D E E P - F R I E D P O T A T O E S . T H E Y S E E M S I M P L E TO M A K E , B U T M U S T B E D O N E C A R E F U L L Y IF E X C E L L E N T Q U A L I T Y IS T O B E A C H I E V E D . M O S T D E E P - F R I E D P O T A T O E S P R E P A R E D F R O M T H E R A W S T A T E A R E F I R S T B L A N C H E D IN O I L H E A T E D TO 3 0 0 ° TO B 2 5 ° F / 1 4 9 ° T O 1 6 3 ° C U N T I L T E N D E R A N D A L M O S T T R A N S L U C E N T . They a re th e n d rain ed t h o r o u g h ly and h e ld u n t il j u s t b e fo re service.
At
t h a t time, t h e y
A R E F I N I S H E D IN O I L H E A T E D TO 3 5 0 ° TO 3 7 5 ° F / 1 7 7 ° TO 1 9 1 ° C .
deep frying potatoes Blanching ensures that the finished potato has the proper color, texture, and flavor and that it cooks thoroughly without becoming greasy or scorched. It is especially important to blanch souffle potatoes so that they puff adequately. Very thinly cut potatoes (e.g., match stick potatoes) can usually be cooked in a single step, without firs t blanching. Deep-fried potatoes such as Lorette, croquette, and dauphine are made from a puree. Low-moisture potatoes are best for deep frying. Scrub and peel them, and remove the eyes. Cut the potatoes into even slices, julienne, batonnet, or other cuts. If the potatoes are peeled and cut in advance of cooking, hold them submerged in cold water. Rinse the po tatoes in several changes of cold water if indicated, and drain and dry them thoroughly to prevent splattering when they are added to the oil. Rinsing the potatoes in several changes of cold water removes the surface starch and helps prevent the potatoes from sticking to gether. Potatoes that are to be deep fried for such preparations as straw or matchstick po tatoes, in particular, should be rinsed so they don’t clump together as they cook. However, potatoes used for deep-fried potato nests and cakes need the cohesiveness provided by the surface starch and should not be rinsed. Choose a neutral oil with a high smoke point for frying the potatoes. Deep-fried pota toes are customarily seasoned with salt after frying and prior to service. Condiments— ketchup and malt vinegar are the most common—may be served with them. Use either a frying kettle or a deep fryer. Electric or gas deep fryers are excellent for doing a great deal of deep frying because they maintain even temperatures. They are also put together in such a way that it is relatively easy to clean them and care for the oil prop erly. Lacking a freestanding fryer, use a deep kettle or pot, such as a stockpot, instead. Use a thermometer to monitor and control the temperature. Once the correct frying tempera ture is reached, adjust the heat so that the temperature remains relatively constant. Other equipment, such as baskets, tongs, spiders, and containers lined with paper towels, should also be available.
732
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
basic formula
Deep-Fried Potatoes
Enough cooking oil to completely submerge the potatoes
( 1 0 servings)
2 lb 8 oz to 3 lb 8 oz/1.13 to 1.59 kg potatoes, peeled and cut to shape
Finishing or garnishing ingredients for service
Salt and other seasonings
method at-a-glance
deep frying potatoes
D
expert tips
1. Blanch the cut potatoes in 300°F/149°C oil. 2. Drain them.
Potatoes th a t are deep_frie d
3. Increase the o il’s
from the raw state may seem
to be simple, but when prepared with care they can become a very important
tem perature to 375°F/191°C.
addition to textures and flavors of the plate.
D iffe re n t cuts o f po tato
4. Fry the blanched potatoes
will have different results. Thinner
cuts will be crisp throughout, while fatter or bigger cuts will yield a crisp exte
until golden brown and flo a tin g on the oil's surface.
rior with a creamy interior. Some of the different cuts applied to potatoes for deep frying are as follows:
5. Drain them on paper A L L U M E T T E OR M A TC H STIC K / SHOE STR IN G / W AFFLE CUT
towels. 6 . Salt them away from the fryer.
Sait (and sometimes pepper) isthe most typical seasoning for deep-fried potatoes. In addition to these, try applying different ground
7. Serve the potatoes
spices or spice mixtures after frying to suit the profile of a particular dish:
immediately. CAYEN N E / C O R IA N D E R / C U M IN
Add dry sprigs o f fresh herbs withthe potatoes. Frying fresh herbs with the potatoes will infuse the oil and flavor the potatoes: R O S E M A R Y /S A G E
V
c h a p te r 23 » C O O KING POTATOES
733
1. scrub, peel, cut, and hold the potatoes in cold water. Immediately before cooking, rinse them several times in cold water, if indicated, and drain thoroughly. Blot dry. Heat the oil to 300° to 325°F/149° to 163°C. Blanch the potatoes until they are nearly cooked through but still relatively uncolored. Remove the potatoes from the fryer and spread them into a thin layer on a sheet pan. Blanched potatoes may be held, covered and refriger ated, for up to several hours before finishing the cooking process. They may be frozen for 1 month.
2. reheat the
oilto35o°to375°F/ i77°to
191°Cjust before service. Deep-fry the potatoes until golden brown on all surfaces and cooked through. Gently stir the potatoes halfway through cooking so that they brown evenly. L ift them from the cooking oil with a basket or spider and allow any excess oil to drain back into the fryer. Transfer to a pan lined with paper toweling to blot away excess oil. Add seasonings to the very hot fried potatoes as desired. Be sure to do this away from the oil used fo r frying, to prolong the life of the oil. Evaluate the quality of the finished deep-fried pota toes. Bite into one o f the pieces. Very thin potatoes, such as gaufrette (waffle-cut) potatoes, should be extremely crisp, almost to the point where they shatter when b it ten. Thick-cut potatoes should have a crisp exterior and a tender, flu ffy interior. Deep-fried potatoes cannot be held successfully for more than a few minutes.
734
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Duchesse Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
4 o z/5 7 g butter, soft
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL milk, hot
4 egg yolks, beaten
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, hot
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
potato recipes
Whipped Potatoes
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces. Boil or steam until tender enough to mash easily (see Note). Drain and dry them over low heat or on
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces. Boil or steam until tender enough to mash easily.
a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more
Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan
steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the
in a 3oo°F/i49°C oven until no more steam rises
potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill
from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the potatoes are
or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
still hot, puree them through a food mill or potato
2 . Add the butter and mix into the potatoes by hand or with the paddle or wire whip of an electric mixer
ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks. Season with nutmeg,
until just incorporated. Add the milk, cream, salt,
salt, and pepper and mix well by hand or with the
and pepper and whisk by hand or whip in the mixer
wire whip of an electric mixer.
until smooth and light.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe the
3 . Spoon the potatoes onto heated plates or transfer
mixture into the desired shapes on a sheet pan lined
them to a piping bag and pipe into the desired
with parchment paper. Brush lightly with egg wash.
shapes. Serve immediately. NOTE: Alternatively, potatoes may be baked in their skins until very tender. Halve the potatoes and scoop out the flesh while it is still very hot.
4 . Bake in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until the potatoes are golden brown and heated through, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately.
chapter 23 » C OOK I N G P OTATOES
735
Boiled Parsley Potatoes
Baked Potatoes with Deep-Fried Onions
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg russet potatoes
10 russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL sour cream
potato recipes
Boiled Parsley Potatoes
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
1 . Scrub the potatoes and peel, if desired. Cut them
10 o z /2 8 4 g Deep-Fried Onions (page 581)
into 2-in/5-cm cubes or wedges (hold potatoes in cold water until ready to cook to prevent discolor ation).
2 . Place the potatoes in a large pot with enough cold water to cover them by about 2 in/5 cm - Add salt and gradually bring the water to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and simmer until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Drain the po tatoes, return them to the pot, and dry them briefly over low heat until steam no longer rises, 10 to 15 minutes.
3 . Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium heat.
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins in a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork. Rub the potatoes lightly with oil, and season with salt and pepper.
2 . Bake on a sheet pan in a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very tender and cooked through, about 1 hour, turning once.
3 . Meanwhile, blend the sour cream and chives. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Pinch or cut open the potatoes, place 2 tbsp/30 mL
Add the potatoes, rolling and tossing to coat them
of sour cream on the top, and top with the onions.
evenly with butter, and heat through.
Serve immediately.
4 . Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Chapter 23 » CO O K I N G P OTATOES
737
Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes
Glazed Sweet Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
3 lb 5 oz/1.50 kg chef's potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg sweet potatoes
3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice pineapple
2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced garlic
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
3 tb sp /9 g chopped rosemary
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
3 tb sp /9 g chopped sage
1 ts p /2 g ground cinnamon
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g butter
Ground black pepper, as needed
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large dice. Starting with cold water, bring the potatoes to a boil
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins
over medium-high heat. Simmer for about 10 min
in a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
utes, until the potatoes are partially cooked. Drain,
Arrange in a single layer on a sheet pan. Bake in
being careful not to break the potatoes.
a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very tender and cooked
2 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and pour in the oil. Add the potatoes and brown on all sides.
through, 45 to 50 minutes, turning once.
2 . Combine the pineapple, lemon juice, sugar, cin
When they are browned, remove the potatoes and
namon, butter, salt, and pepper in a saucepan and
drain off all but 3 tbsp/45 mL of the oil.
bring to a simmer while the sweet potatoes are bak
3 . Reduce the heat to low and add the garlic, rosemary, and sage. Cook until the garlic is lightly browned and the herbs are crisp. Toss the mixture with the potatoes.
4 . Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
ing. Continue to cook until lightly thickened; keep warm.
3 . As soon as the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them and cut into slices or large chunks. Ar range them on a sheet pan. Pour the glaze over them and bake in a 350°F/i77°C oven until very hot, about
NOTE: Instead of parcooking the potatoes in boiling water, the potatoes may be tossed with 2 f I oz/60 mL olive oil, 2 tbsp/18gminced garlic, 2 tbsp/6gminced rosemary, 2 tbsp/6 g chopped sage, salt, and pepper, transferred to an oiled sheet pan, and roasted in a 375°F/191°C oven until tender and brown, 40 to 45 minutes.
10 minutes. Serve immediately.
Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Ginger Makes 10 servings 3 lb /1.36 kg sweet potatoes 2 o z/5 7 g butter 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream, hot I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced ginger Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
2 . Bake on a rack in a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very ten der and cooked through, about 45 minutes.
3 . Halve the potatoes, scoop out the flesh while still hot, and puree the flesh through a food mill or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
□ . Allow the potatoes to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing into servings. NOTE: For a traditional scalloped potato dish, the sliced potatoes may be shingled in the hotel pan. Before baking, layer with 4 to 5 oz/113 to 142 g grated Cheddar and then top with an additional 5 oz/142 ggrated Cheddar. Cover the pan with foil for 35 minutes. Uncover and allow the cheese to brown lightly.
4 . Combine the butter, cream, and ginger in a small
potato recipes
1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Pierce the skins in a
sauce pot and bring to a simmer. Pour over the pu reed sweet potatoes and stir gently until the mixture is homogenous. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Lyonnaise Potatoes Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg chef's potatoes
Potatoes au Gratin
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g sliced onions
( G r a t i n
D a u p h i n o i s e )
Makes 10 servings 3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg chef’s potatoes
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
5 garlic cloves 1 q t/9 6 0 mL milk
1 . Scrub, peel, and slice the potatoes. Cook them in a large stockpot of boiling salted water until partially
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
cooked, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and dry them over low
Salt, as needed
heat or on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until
Ground black pepper, as needed
no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL heavy cream 4 o z /1 13 g butter, cut into small pieces
2 . Heat the oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove the onions from the pan and reserve.
1 . Scrub, peel, and thinly slice the potatoes using a mandoline or electric slicer.
2 . Put the garlic in a medium saucepan with the milk
3 . Add the potatoes to the oil and season with salt and pepper. Continue to saute over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are browned
and bring to a boil. Season the milk with nutmeg,
well on all sides and tender to the bite, 5 to 7 min
salt, and pepper and add the sliced potatoes.
utes. Add back the onions. Garnish with the parsley
3 . Bring the milk to a simmer at i8o°F/82°C and cook
and serve immediately.
the potatoes until cooked halfway, 8 to 10 minutes, taking care that the milk does not boil over. Discard the garlic.
4 . Transfer the potatoes and milk to a buttered hotel pan, pour the cream over the top, and dot with the butter.
5 . Bake in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until golden brown and the milk has been absorbed, about 45 minutes.
chapter 23 » CO O K I N G P OTATOES
739
Chateau Potatoes
Hash Brown Potatoes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's or waxy yellow potatoes
4 lb/1.81 kg chef’s potatoes
2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter or oil
2 fl o z/6 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
'A o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
1 . Scrub the potatoes and peel if desired. Cut them into
1 . Scrub and peel the potatoes. Cook them in a large
equal-size tourne, about the size of an olive (hold
stockpot of boiling salted water until partially
potatoes in cold water until ready to cook to prevent
cooked, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of
discoloration). Rinse, drain, and dry thoroughly.
the potatoes. Drain and dry them over low heat or
2 . Heat the clarified butter in a saute pan over medium
on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven, 5 to 10 min
heat. Add the potatoes and saute until tender with a
utes. Cut the potatoes into slices, small or medium
golden exterior, 8 to 10 minutes.
dice, or grate them.
3 . Sprinkle with parsley and season with salt and pep per. Serve immediately.
2 . Heat the butter in a large saute pan over mediumhigh heat. Add the potatoes and season with salt and pepper.
3 . Saute the potatoes until they are fully cooked and well browned on all sides. Garnish with the parsley
Delmonico Potatoes
and serve immediately.
Makes 10 servings 5 lb /2.27 kg chef’s potatoes 2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter 2 o z/5 7 g whole butter Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 3 tb s p /4 5 mL lemon juice
1 . Scrub and peel the potatoes. Use a parisienne scoop to shape the potatoes into large balls.
2 . Cook the potatoes by boiling or steaming in a me dium stockpot or convection steamer until almost tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 300^/149 °C oven until no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.
3 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the potatoes and saute until cooked through and light golden brown. Add the whole butter and melt. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Sprinkle the potatoes with the parsley and lemon juice and serve immediately.
740
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Potato katkes
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg russet potatoes
3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes
8 o z/2 2 7 g coarsely grated onion, with extra liquid squeezed out
1 lb /4 5 4 g onions 2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tb sp /9 g crushed garlic 1 o z/2 8 g bread flour 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 1 o z/2 8 g matzo meal
potato recipes
Potato Pancakes
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives Salt, as needed 3 eggs, lightly beaten Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb sp /7 g all-purpose flour 16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil
1 . Scrub the potatoes. Grind or grate the potatoes and onions together with a food processor or by hand.
2 . Wring the grated potatoes and onions in cheesecloth 1 . Scrub, peel, and coarsely grate the potatoes. Com
to remove excess moisture. Transfer to a bowl and
bine them with the onions, garlic, parsley, chives,
add the eggs, flour, and matzo meal. Season with salt
eggs, and flour. Season with salt and pepper.
and pepper.
2 . Heat 3 tbsp/45 mLof the oil in a large skillet over
3 . Heat V4 in/6 mm oil in a heavy cast-iron skillet to
medium heat. Add about 2 tbsp/30 mL of the potato
350°F/i77°C. Drop about 2 tbsp/30 mL of the potato
mixture to the pan and flatten with a spoon to form
mixture into the hot oil. Brown on the first side for
a galette (2 to 3 in/5 to 8 cm in diameter).
about 3 minutes. Turn them once and brown on the
3 . Cook until golden on one side, then turn to brown the other side, about 6 minutes per side.
4 . Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.
second side, another 2 to 3 minutes. If necessary, the pancakes may be finished in a 375°F/i9i°C oven until browned and crisp. Blot the pancakes on paper towels and serve immediately.
chapter 23 » C O O K IN G POTATOES
743
Potatoes Anna Makes 10 servings
3 . Halve the potatoes and scoop out the flesh while still very hot into a heated bowl. Mash the potatoes, butter, salt, pepper, and egg together with a fork or wooden
4 lb/1.81 kg chef's potatoes
2'A f 1o z/7 5 mL melted clarified butter, or as needed Salt, as needed
spoon until evenly blended. Shape into cakes.
4 . Heat the clarified butter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, saute the cakes until golden on both sides and very hot, 2 to 3
Ground black pepper, as needed
minutes per side. Serve immediately.
1 . Scrub, peel, and trim the potatoes into uniform cyl inders. Thinly slice them using a mandoline or elec tric slicer.
2 . Liberally brush a sautoir or cast-iron skillet with butter. Arrange the potato slices in concentric rings. Lightly brush each layer with butter and season with salt and pepper.
Rosti Potatoes Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes 4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL clarified butter, or as needed
3 . Cover the potatoes and cook them on the stovetop over medium heat until the bottom layer is brown,
Salt, as needed
about 8 minutes. Turn the potato cake upside down
Ground black pepper, as needed
and brown the other side, about 6 to 8 minutes.
2 o z/5 7 g whole butter, or as needed
4 . Place the pan in a 400°F/204°C oven and bake until the potatoes are tender, 30 to 35 minutes.
5 . Drain off the excess butter and turn the potato cake
1 . Scrub the potatoes and place them in a large stock pot. Add cold water to cover by 2 in/5 cm- Bring
out onto a platter. Slice into servings and serve
to a simmer and parcook until the potatoes are
immediately.
cooked about halfway, about 20 minutes. Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more steam rises from them, 5 to 10 minutes.
Macaire Potatoes Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes Salt, as needed
2 . Peel the potatoes as soon as they are cool enough to handle and grate them on the coarse side of a box grater.
3 . Heat a rosti or saute pan over high heat. Ladle in some of the clarified butter. Layer enough grated potato in the pan to make a single, uniform layer.
2 o z/5 7 g butter Ground black pepper, as needed le g g 2 tb s p /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil
Lightly drizzle the layer with a little additional but ter and season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, butter, salt, and pepper. Dot the outside edge with pieces of whole butter.
4 . Cook the potatoes until they are golden brown and 1 . Scrub and blot dry the potatoes. Season with salt. Pierce the skins in a few places with a paring knife or kitchen fork.
2 . Bake on the rack in a 425°F/2i8°C oven until very tender and cooked through, about 1 hour.
744
form a cake, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the entire cake, dot the edge with more whole butter, and cook the second side until the potatoes are fully cooked and tender and the crusts are golden brown and crisp. Turn the cake out of the pan, cut into servings, and serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Sweet Potato Chips
Makes 10 servings
Berny Potatoes Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes 2 V i
oz/71 g butter, soft
4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes 2 egg yolks, beaten 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed Salt, as needed Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into the desired
Ground black pepper, as needed
shape, most commonly Vs by Vs by 2 to 3 in/9 mm by
2 o z/5 7 g chopped truffles
9 mm by 5 to 8 cm (hold potatoes in cold water until
2 o z/5 7 g slivered almonds
ready to cook to prevent discoloration). Rinse, drain, and dry thoroughly.
2 . Heat the oil to 275 to 300^/135 to 149°C in a heavy deep pot or a deep fryer. Add the potatoes in batches,
potato recipes
French-Fried Potatoes
2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed Vegetable oil, as needed
and blanch until just tender but not browned (time varies according to the size of cuts).
3 . Drain well and transfer to pans lined with paper towels, scaling into servings if desired.
4
.
Just before service, reheat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C and finish the potatoes, frying until they are golden brown and cooked through. Drain well, season with salt away from the fryer, and serve immediately.
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces. Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand or with the wire whip of an electric mixer. Fold in
Sweet Potato Chips Makes 10 servings 3 lb /1.36 kg sweet potatoes 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed Salt, as needed
the truffles.
3 . Combine the almonds and bread crumbs in a shal low container.
4 . Shape 2-oz/57-g servings of the potato mixture into balls or pear shapes, as desired. Dip the balls in the egg wash and then into the almond/bread crumb mixture.
5 . Heat oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot or a deep 1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the sweet potatoes into circles
fryer and fry the potatoes until they are an even
1/16 in/1.50 mm thick using a mandoline or electric
golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain briefly on paper
slicer.
towels and serve immediately.
2 . Heat the oil to 325°F/i63°C in a heavy deep pot and fry the potatoes in batches until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Serve immediately, or store uncovered in a warm area.
chapter 23 » CO O K I N G P OTATOES
747
Souffleed Potatoes Makes 10 servings 4 lb 8 o z/2.04 kg Russet potatoes 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed Salt, as needed
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand or with the wire whip of an electric mixer.
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe it into long ropes about 1 in/3 cm ' n diameter. Cut these ropes into 3-in/8-cm lengths. Coat the potato cyl inders with the flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs,
1 . Scrub, peel, and trim the potatoes into uniform cylinders. Slice them thin (Vi6 to Vs in/1.50 to 3 mm) lengthwise using a mandoline or electric sheer.
2 . Heat the oil to 300°F/i49°C in a heavy deep pot. Add the potato slices in small batches. Shake the basket or pot carefully to prevent the potatoes from stick ing. When the slices blister, remove and drain them in a single layer on paper towels. Hold for service.
following the standard breading procedure (see page 365). This can be done just before service or up to 4 hours in advance, keeping the croquettes covered and refrigerated.
4 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot. Deep fry the croquettes until golden brown and heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain briefly on paper tow els and serve immediately.
3 . At service, reheat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C and add the blanched potato slices. Fry until puffed and golden brown. Drain well. Season with salt and serve immediately.
Lorette Potatoes Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg russet potatoes
Croquette Potatoes Makes 10 servings
2V i o z/71 g butter, soft 2 egg yolks, beaten Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
2 lb /9 0 7 g russet potatoes
Salt, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g butter, soft
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 egg yolks, beaten Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Pate a Choux (page 1160), at room temperature
Salt, as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces. Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to
2 eggs combined with 2 tb sp /3 0 mL milk or water for egg wash
mash easily. Drain and dry them over low heat or
5 o z/1 4 2 g bread crumbs
steam rises from them, 10 to 15 minutes. While the
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
potatoes are still hot, puree them through a food mill
on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C oven until no more
or potato ricer into a heated bowl.
1 . Scrub, peel, and cut the potatoes into large pieces.
2 . Add the butter and egg yolks to the potatoes. Season
Boil or steam the potatoes until tender enough to
with nutmeg, salt, and pepper and mix well by hand
mash easily, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and dry them
or with the wire whip of an electric mixer. Fold in
over low heat or on a sheet pan in a 300°F/i49°C
the pate a choux.
oven until no more steam rises from them, 10 to 15
3 . Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and pipe the
minutes. While the potatoes are still hot, puree them
mixture into crescent shapes on strips of parchment
through a food mill or potato ricer into a heated
paper.
bowl.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES , G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
and discard the paper. Deep fry the lorettes until
Makes 10 servings
Carefully lower the strips of paper into the pot.
golden brown, turning if necessary to brown evenly. Remove them from the oil, blot dry on paper towels,
2 lb /9 0 7 g peeled, large-dice sweet potatoes
and serve immediately.
2 lb /9 0 7 g peeled, large-dice russet potatoes 12 o z/3 4 0 g minced red onion
potato recipes
When the lorettes have lifted off the paper, remove
Curried Sweet Potato Salad
4 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot.
12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-dice mango
German Potato Salad Makes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g green onions, green and white parts, sliced Vs in /3 mm thick 2 tb s p /1 8 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
3 lb 5 o z/1.50 kg Red Bliss potatoes
1 ts p /2 g ground cumin
10 o z/2 8 4 g bacon, minced
1 ts p /2 g ground cardamom
11 o z/3 1 2 g onion, minced
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine vinegar
1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL rice wine vinegar
3 tb sp /4 5 mL Dijon mustard
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lime juice
1 tb sp /1 5 mL Pommery mustard
Salt, as needed
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), warm
Ground black pepper, as needed
lt b s p /lO g s a lt 1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 . Place the sweet and russet potatoes in a large pot and cover with cool salted water. Bring to a simmer
2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives 3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
over medium heat and cook the potatoes until ten der, about 20 minutes.
2 . Drain the potatoes well and spread them onto a 1 . Put the potatoes in a large pot. Cover them with cool salted water and bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender, 18 to 20 minutes.
2 . Drain the potatoes and peel them while they are still warm. Slice the potatoes about Vi in/i cm thick. Keep the potatoes warm.
3 . In a medium saute pan, cook the bacon over me dium heat until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Re move the bacon from the pan, leaving the fat. Cook
sheet pan. Air-dry the potatoes.
3 . Combine the potatoes, onions, mango, and green onions in a large bowl.
4 . In a medium bowl, combine the curry powder, cumin, cardamom, mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, and lime juice.
5 . Add the dressing to the potatoes and toss to com bine. Season with salt and pepper. Serve or hold under refrigeration until needed.
the onions in the rendered fat until tender, 5 to 7 minutes.
4 . Transfer the onions to a large bowl. Add the bacon, vinegar, oil, mustards, and stock.
5 . Add the warm potatoes to the dressing and toss gen tly to combine. Season with the salt and pepper and finish with the chives and parsley. Serve immediately.
chapter 23 » C OOK I N G POTAT OES
749
Tortilla de Papas
4 . Whisk the eggs together well and reserve.
Makes 10 servings
5 . To make the artichoke and pepper salad, trim and cut the artichokes into quarters. Place them into a
TORTILLA
large nonreactive pot with the water, lemon juice,
1 lb /4 5 4 g chef's potatoes, cut into medium dice
bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer
1 lb /4 5 4 g purple-skin potatoes, cut into medium dice 8 o z/2 2 7 g clarified butter, plus as needed for frying
and cook until the thickest part of the artichoke is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. 6 . Cool the artichokes to room temperature in the
1 lb /4 5 4 g Spanish onions, thinly sliced
cooking liquid. Drain well and transfer to a large
3 lb 8 o z /1 .5 9 kg eggs
bowl.
ARTICHOKE AND PEPPER SALAD 1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g baby artichokes
7 . Char and peel the red and yellow peppers according to the instructions on page 639. Cut them into batonnets. Add the peppers, onions, olive oil, balsamic
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
vinegar, parsley, thyme, salt, and pepper to the bowl
272 f I o z/7 5 mL lemon juice
with the artichokes. Keep warm.
1 bay leaf 3 thyme sprigs
8 . To make the tortillas, heat a small amount of clari fied butter in each of several nonstick medium saute pans. Ladle about 6 oz/170 g of the eggs into each
10 peppercorns
skillet. When they begin to coagulate, divide the sau
1 lb /4 5 4 g red peppers
teed potatoes and sauteed onions between the pans.
1 lb /4 5 4 g yellow peppers
Allow each tortilla to set and lightly brown, then
8 o z/2 2 7 g onions, sliced 2 tb sp /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
place the pan in a 400°F/204°C oven and cook until the eggs are just set.
9 . Transfer the tortilla to a plate, top with artichoke
1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar
and pepper salad, and garnish with crumbled goat
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
cheese and chervil.
l
'/ 2
ts p /1.50 g chopped thyme
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g goat cheese, crumbled 3/ t o z/21 g chervil pluches
1 . Place the potatoes in a large pot, and cover with cool salted water. Bring to a boil and simmer the potatoes until they are half cooked. Drain and cool to room temperature.
2 . Heat half of the clarified butter in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the potatoes and saute until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove and reserve the potatoes.
3 . Heat the remaining clarified butter in the pan over medium heat. Add the Spanish onions and saute until caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the pot and reserve with the potatoes.
750
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
c o o * ? grains
andJramimes Orijtof the most dramatic changes on the culinary scene in recent years has been the rediscovery of grains and legumes. Everyday grains— wheat, corn, rice— are appearing in many new forms, and beans have become more popular as well. In addition, exotic grains such as millet, Kamut, amaranth, and quinoa, and beans that were once rarely seen, including flageolets and borlottis, are appearing more frequently.
G r a in s a n d l e g u m e s a r e d r ie d f o o d s t h a t m u s t b e p r o p e r l y r e h y d r a t e d b y c o o k in g in s t o c k O R W A T E R B E F O R E T H E Y C A N BE E A T E N . L E G U M E S A N D M O S T G R A I N S A R E U S U A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H T H E L I Q . U I D B E F O R E B R I N G I N G I T TO A B O I L , B U T S O M E G R A I N S ( d U I N O A , F O R I N S T A N C E ) A R E A D D E D TO T H E L I Q . U I D O N L Y A F T E R I T H A S C O M E TO A B O I L . S O M E S E A S O N I N G S A R E A D D E D A T T H E B E G I N N I N G O F T H E C O O K I N G P E R I O D , O T H E R S A T T H E E N D . ( R E F E R TO S P E C I F I C R E C I P E S F O R D E T A I L S . ) A L T H O U G H G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S A R E O F T E N R E F E R R E D TO A S B O I L E D , T H E Y A R E A C T U A L L Y S I M M E R E D O R S T E A M E D . T h e H I G H H E A T O F A B O I L I N G L I Q . U I D T E N D S TO T O U G H E N T H E M .
simmering whole grains ana legumes When a grain completely absorbs the cooking liquid, it is often referred to as steamed. Grains may also be cooked in a quantity of liquid greater than they can absorb; once the grain is fully cooked, the excess liquid is drained away. Sort whole grains and legumes carefully before cooking. Spread out the grains or le gumes in a single layer on a sheet pan and work from one end of the pan to the other sys tematically to spot and remove stones and moldy beans. Put the beans or legumes in a large pot or bowl and cover them with cold water. Any that flo at on the surface are too dry for culinary or nutritional purposes and should be removed and discarded. Drain the beans or legumes in a colander or sieve and then rinse them well with cold running water to remove any dust. Most legumes and some grains are soaked prior to cooking. Whole grains, such as whole or Scotch barley and wheat and rye berries, benefit from soaking, which softens the outer layer of bran. Pearl barley, which has had the bran removed mechanically, does not need to be soaked. Imported basmati and jasmine rice should be soaked to remove excess starch from the surface and prevent clumping. Domestic basmati and jasmine rice do not need to be soaked. Steep fine- or medium-grind bulgur wheat in boiling liquid for several minutes, until the grain softens enough to be chewed easily. Like bulgur, steep instant couscous in hot stock or water. (While couscous is actually a form of semolina pasta, it is often thought of as a grain because of its texture and appearance.) Whether or not to soak legumes is a subject of debate among chefs. Some believe that most legumes, with a few notable exceptions (lentils, split peas, and black-eyed peas), are easier to prepare and produce a better quality finished dish if they are soaked, because the skins soften slightly, allowing fo r more rapid and even cooking. Others find that soak ing has no benefit beyond shortening the cooking time, and that cooking legumes without soaking results in a creamier texture. If you choose to soak, there are two methods com monly used: the long soak and the short soak. Except fo r time, there is no appreciable d if ference between them. If grains or legumes are to be eaten at room temperature or chilled as fo r a salad, more cooking time is required to achieve a softer texture.
752
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
bate. In addition to softening skins, soaking the legumes causes many of the oligosaccha rides (indigestible complex sugars that can cause flatulence) in the legumes to be leached into the water. At the same time, small amounts of nutrients, flavor, and color are also leached into the water. When the soaking water is used as the cooking liquid, the nutrients, flavor, and color are retained, but so are the oligosaccharides. Water, stock, and broth are common choices fo r the cooking liquid. Each type of grain or legume absorbs a different amount of liquid. (See Cooking Ratios and Times for Select ed Pasta and Grains, page 1162, or package or recipe instructions fo r details.) Grains often are cooked in an amount of liquid greater than they can actually absorb. This is especially desirable for grains that should remain separate, fluffy, and very dry after cooking. The amount of liquid required for legumes depends on the type and the age of the legume and its total cooking time. Legumes should be completely covered by liquid at all times. It is important to maintain this level throughout cooking. If the legumes are allowed to absorb all the liquid, they might break apart or scorch. Salt needs to be added to the cooking liquid at the beginning of cooking time for grains or near the end fo r legumes to properly enhance natural flavors. Legumes and grains have relatively subtle flavors that frequently require a boost from spices and herbs either dur ing or after cooking. Grains are done when they are tender to the bite. They should be fluffy, with a sweet, nutty flavor. Legumes are done when they are completely tender and creamy on the inside
simmering grains and legumes
Whether or not to use the soaking water as the cooking liquid is also a subject of de
but still retain their shape. They should be soft and easy to mash with a fork or spoon. Un dercooking legumes is a common mistake. The equipment needs for simmering grains and legumes are quite simple: a pot large enough to allow fo r the expansion of the grain or legume, a colander or strainer if draining will be required, and holding and serving pieces.
SOAKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES TH E LONG SO AK M E T H O D
THE SHO RT SOAK M E TH O D
Place the sorted and rinsed legumes in a
Place the sorted and rinsed legumes in
container and add enough cool water to
a pot and add enough water to cover by
cover them by 2 in/5 cm- Let the legumes
2 in/5 cm- Bring the water to a simmer.
soak in the refrigerator for 4 hours to over
Remove the pot from direct heat and cov
night, depending on the type of legume.
er. Let the legumes steep for 1 hour.
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
753
basic formula Simmered Whole Grains or Legumes (10 servings)
Stock or water, as needed to cover grains or legumes throughout cooking time
Standard sachet d’epices
Salt and pepper
aromatic vegetables
or bouquet garni Mirepoix or other
1 lb/454 g grains or 1 lb/454 g legumes
method at-a-glance expert tips Q
1. Soak legumes, if desired. 2. Combine the grains or
legumes w ith the cold liquid.
To develop additional flavor,
choose well-seasoned, flavor-
ful liquids to cook the grains or legumes:
3. Bring to a rolling boil. S T O C K /B R O T H /W IN E
4. Establish a simmer
and cook to the proper doneness. 5. Drain and serve or hold in a
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly to the grains or legumes will infuse flavor throughout the cooking process:
warm place. A R O M A T IC VE G ETAB LES / FRESH HERBS / W HOLE OR GROUND SPIC ES / GARLIC
For a healthier option:
Use whole grains whenever possible, as
they have increased health benefits; brown rice, quinoa, wheat berries, kasha, millet, and barley are just a few options.
754
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
simmering grains and legumes
1. cook the grain or legumes. Combine the grain or legumes with the cooking liquid and bring to a full boil. Reduce the heat slightly to a sim mer and cook the grain or legumes until done as desired. Legumes and some grains need to be stirred occasionally as they cook to prevent scorching. Check the level of the cooking liquid and add more as necessary to keep the le gumes or grain completely covered. To check fo r doneness, taste a grain or legume. Salt is typically added to legumes after they have become ten der. Adding salt or acidic ingredients, such as citrus juices or vinegar, earlier can toughen the skin if added at the start of cooking time. Drain the grain or legumes or let them cool in the cooking liquid if they are to be used later. This keeps the skins tender. In many cases, the cooking liquid is an im portant ingredient in the finished dish. Finish and serve on heated plates or use in another preparation. If liquid is not entirely absorbed, drain the grains in a colander and suspend it over a pot. Cover the pot and let the grain steam dry fo r a few minutes over low heat. Use a fork to gently flu ff the grain, but do not stir; stirring may cause starch granules to burst, creating a gluey texture. Adjust the seasoning as necessary and appropriate with salt, pepper, and other ingredients. Hold the dish in a warm place, if necessary, until ready to serve.
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
755
C u l in a r y
g r a in s
m a y
u n d er g o
s o m e
ty p e
of
p r o c e s s in g
(m il l in g ) b efo r e
t h e y
reach
the
K I T C H E N TO P R O D U C E M E A L S A N D C E R E A L S . W H E N A W H O L E G R A I N I S M I L L E D , I T IS B R O K E N D O W N I N T O S U C C E S S I V E L Y S M A L L E R P A R T I C L E S . D E P E N D I N G O N T H E G R A I N , T H E F I N A L R E S U L T M I G H T BE Q .U IT E C O A R S E ( C R A C K E D W H E A T O R G R O A T S ) O R Q .U IT E F I N E ( c O R N M E A L OR F A R I N A ) . S O M E G R A I N S A R E T R E A T E D B E F O R E M I L L I N G . B U L G U R W H E A T , F O R E X A M P L E , I S S T E A M E D A N D D R I E D B E F O R E I T IS CRUSHED.
simmering and boiling cereals and meals Cereals include various forms of oats, buckwheat groats, and rye flakes, as well as cracked grains like bulgur. Meals include grits and polenta, farina, semolina, and cream of rice. (Flours are even more finely ground.) Cereals and meals vary widely according to the way in which they are processed. Meals and cereals may be ground coarsely or finely. The bran and germ may be left intact or removed. Coarser cereals produce a dense, porridge-like texture; finer grinds produce a smooth, even silky, texture similar to a pudding. All cereals and grains should have a fresh, appealing aroma. As they age, the natural oils can become rancid. Storing grains, cereals, and meals in the freezer can prevent spoil age. Some cereals and grains should be rinsed before cooking. Others must be dry so that they can be added gradually to the cooking liquid. Water, stock, or broth may be used as the cooking liquid, depending on the grain, the dish, and the menu. Cereals and grain meals are generally cooked in just as much liquid as they can absorb; each type of cereal or meal will absorb a different amount of liquid. (Refer to package or recipe directions for details.) Salt is generally added to the cooking water, and sometimes spices or herbs are added as well. Taste and adjust the seasoning at the end of the cooking time. Grains tend to need considerable salt; otherwise they taste flat. The pots for cooking the cereal or meal can be small or large, depending on the amount, but in general they should have a heavy bottom.
756
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Simmering Cereals or Meals
Stock or broth, water, milk, or a combination of liquids
Aromatic vegetables such as onions or garlic, or sugar, honey, or other sweeteners for
Salt and pepper
sweetened preparations
(10 servings) 1 lb/454 g cereal or cracked or flaked grain or 1 lb/454 g grain meal
Bouquet garni or sachet d’epices
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Bring the liquid to a boil or combine the liquid and the cereal or meal and bring to a boil, depending on the grain. Add the cereal or meal to the boiling liquid in a thin, even stream. (If the grain was added in step 1, om it this step.) 3
.
Establish a simmer and cook to the proper doneness. Serve or hold in a warm place.
ex p ert tips To develop additional flavor,
choosewell-seasoned,flavor-
ful liquids to cook the cereal or meal. Use each liquid alone or combine to create different results: S T O C K /B R O T H /M IL K
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly into the grains or legumes will infuse flavor throughout the cooking process: A R O M A T IC VEG E TAB LE S / B O U Q U ET G A R N I / S A C H ET D ’EPIC ES / GARLIC
Depending on the desired result,
simmering and boiling cereals and meals
basic formula
sweeteners can be
added to achieve a different flavor: S U G A R / H O N E Y / M A P LE S Y R U P
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
757
1. depending on the grain, bring the liquid to a full boil and add the cereal or meal in a thin stream, stirring constantly, or combine the cereal and liquid and bring to a boil. You may also add the cereal (po lenta) to cold water like you would for a slurry and then bring it up to a simmer. This helps to prevent clumps from forming. Salt and other seasonings may be added to the liquid as it comes to a boil, along with any other desired seasonings and aromatics. Reduce the heat to establish a simmer and cook, stirring as necessary, until done. Most cereals should be stirred occasionally as they cook to prevent scorching. Drag the spoon across the bottom of the pot and into the corners to release the cereal or meal. The mixture will thicken noticeably while cooking. Some meals or cereals may become s tiff enough to pull away from the sides of the pot and are relatively heavy in texture. Others remain fluid enough to pour easily.
m eth o d in d etail 2. cook grain meals
so that they are liquid
enough to pour when they are still warm. They should also have a relatively smooth, creamy texture. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and spread hot polenta in an even layer for quick cooling.
758
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
dings made from grain meals will be thick, with a coarse to smooth consistency, depending on the cereal. Cold cooked meals such as polenta can be cut into a variety of shapes, then sauteed, grilled, baked, or pan fried before being served.
CHEF'S NOTES ON POLENTA Ingredients such as vegetables and cheese
Stir them into the hot, just-cooked polenta
may be added to polenta when it is to be
before it is chilled. Spread the polenta into
chilled and baked or fried. Vegetables are
an even layer, cover, and refrigerate until
cooked and then added to the grain im
it is thoroughly chilled. Cut as desired and
mediately after cooking while it is still hot.
pan fry or bake to crisp the outside and
Vegetables should be cut into small dice
heat through before serving.
simmering and boiling cereals and meals
3. evaluate the quality of the finished cooked meal or cereal. Polenta, porridges, and pud
and sauteed and seasoned appropriately.
Chapter 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
759
O rig in a lly
fro m
th e
M id d le
E a s t, p i la f
(a ls o
c a lle d
pilau)
is a g r a i n
d is h
in w h i c h
th e
G R A I N — U S U A L L Y R I C E — I S F I R S T H E A T E D IN A P A N , E I T H E R D R Y O R IN FAT, A N D T H E N C O M B I N E D W I T H A H O T L i a U I D A N D C O O K E D , C O V E R E D , O V E R D I R E C T H E A T O R IN T H E O V E N .
pilaf Pilafs may be simple dishes, composed of only the grain and cooking liquid, or they may be quite substantial and include a wide range of additional ingredients such as meat or shellfish, vegetables, nuts, or dried fruits. In a pilaf, the grains remain separate and take on a nutty flavor from their initial sauteing, and have a somewhat firm er texture than when boiled. Rice is the grain most frequently used to prepare a pilaf, though other grains, such as bulgur or barley, can also be used. If necessary, rinse and air-dry the grain by spreading it out in a thin layer on a sheet pan. A neutral-flavored vegetable oil is most often used to sweat the aromatics and saute the grain, but a cooking fat that will contribute a flavor of its own, such as butter or ren dered duck fat, may also be used. Stock or broth is generally the preferred cooking liquid. Bring the liquid to a boil in a separate pot before adding it to the grain to help shorten the cooking time. To impart a particular flavor and/or color, substitute vegetable or fru it juice or a vegetable coulis for up to half of the liquid. If the juice is acidic (tomato juice, for instance), the cooking time may need to be increased by as much as 15 to 20 minutes. A member of the onion family, such as finely diced or minced onions, shallots, green onions, garlic, or leeks, is usually required for a pilaf. In addition to onions, bay leaves and thyme are commonly used for flavor. Other herbs and spices may also be added. Additional vegetables may be added to sweat along with the onion. Other ingredients, including sea food, meat, vegetables, and nuts, are often added. (Refer to recipes for details.) A heavy-gauge pot of the appropriate size, fitte d with a lid, is required to allow steam ing and to prevent scorching. Holding and serving pieces are also needed.
760
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
basic formula Pilaf (10 servings) 2 cups/480 mL rice, quinoa, or similar whole grains or 1 lb/454 g orzo or similar small pasta shapes or 14 ozto 1 lb/397 to 454 g barley or lentils
28 to 32 fl oz/840 to 960 mL seasoned stock, broth, or water
40 fl oz/1.20 L stock, broth, or water for brown rice, quinoa,
for nonconverted rice or
or similar whole grains or
28 fl oz/840 mL stock, broth, or water for Carolina rice or
32 to 40 fl oz/960 mLto 1.20 L stock, broth, or water for orzo or similar small pasta shapes or
24 fl oz/720 mL stock, broth, or water for basmati,
40 to 48 fl oz/1.20 to 1.44 L stock, broth, or water for barley
texmati, or jasmine rice or 64 fl oz/1.92 L stock, broth, or water for wild rice or
Salt and pepper Bay leaf, thyme, or other herbs Onions or other aromatic vegetables
m eth o d at-a-g lan ce Heat a cooking fat.
ex p ert tips Q
Add onions and sweat them. Add the grain and saute it. Add the liquid and aromatics. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pot and place it in the oven.
To develop additional flavor,
choosewell-seasoned,flavor-
ful liquids to cook the pilaf: STOCK / BROTH
Additional ingredients
may be added to develop more flavor.
Adding them directly into the pilaf will infuse flavor throughout the cooking process: A R O M A T IC VEG ETAB LES / FRESH H ERBS / G A R LIC
Cook until individual grains are tender. Adjust the seasoning and serve the pilaf.
For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as they have increased health benefits; brown rice, quinoa, wheat berries, kasha, millet, and barley are just a few options.
ch a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
1. sweat the aromatic vegetables in fa t in a heavy-bottom ed pot until softened. Add the grains and saute, stirring frequently, until they are well coated with fat. Heating the grain in hot fat, known as parching, begins gelation of the starches. This encourages the grains to remain separate a fte r they are cooked. It also encourages the grains to pick up the flavor of the aromatics.
2. heat the liquid, add it to the grains, and bring to a simmer. Heating the liquid before adding it speeds up the cooking process. Stir the grains once or twice as they come up to a simmer to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Add any additional flavoring ingredients at this point. Cover the pot and com plete the cooking in a medium oven or over low heat on the stovetop.
762
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
3. when the liquid is fully absorbed (18 to 2 0 minutes fo r rice, other grains wilt vary; see the chart on page 11 62 ), remove the pot from the heat and let the pilaf rest, covered, fo r 5 minutes. Letting the pilaf rest al lows it to absorb the remaining liquid and steam. Uncover and use a fork to flu ff the grains and release the steam. Adjust the seasoning. Evaluate the quality of the finished pilaf. Test a few grains by biting into them. They should be tender but with a noticeable texture, not so ft and mushy. In addition, the individual grains should separate easily. There should be no liquid visible in the bottom of the pot. Pilafs th at have been overcooked have a pasty flavor; the individual grains may be mushy or soggy and may clump together. Grains that have been undercooked or cooked in too little liquid are overly crunchy.
CHEF'S NOTES ON PILAF Adding lentils to rice pilaf makes a heartier
amount of time that it takes to cook rice or
dish that can be served on its own or as
other similar grains, so the resulting pilaf
the main component of a vegetarian plate.
will be fluffy and dry, not mushy. Add any
Brown and green lentils are the only
other ingredients such as vegetables, meat,
legumes that are quick-cooking enough
or fish as you would to any traditional
to add to a pilaf. They cook in the same
pilaf.
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
A C L A S S IC R IS O T T O IS A R IC H , C R E A M Y D IS H W I T H N E A R L Y A P O R R ID G E - L IK E C O N S IS T E N C Y , Y E T EACH G R A IN OF RICE R E T A IN S A D IS T IN C T B ITE .
In
I T A L I A N R I S O T T O , T H E R I C E IS P A R C H E D A S I N T H E P I L A F
M E T H O D , B U T T H E L I Q U I D IS A D D E D A N D A B S O R B E D G R A D U A L L Y W H I L E T H E G R A I N IS S T I R R E D A L M O S T C O N S T A N T L Y . T h e STARCH SL O W LY R E L E A S E S D U R IN G TH E CO O K IN G PR O C ES S, PR O D U C IN G A C R E A M Y TEXTURE.
risotto Grated cheese is often included, and vegetables, meats, or fish may be added to create a risotto th at can be served as an appetizer or main course. Although risotto's preparation is relatively lengthy and requires constant attention, there are ways to streamline the pro cess, making it suitable for restaurant service. Risotto is traditionally made with special Italian varieties of medium-grain round rice. The best known of these is Arborio, but other varieties include Vialone Nano and Carnaroli. Other grains, including other long-grain or brown rices, barley, wheat berries, or small pasta shapes, may also be prepared with this method, but the quality o f the finished dish is not the same as a risotto made with an Italian medium-grain rice. The cooking tim e will be longer fo r brown rice and whole grains, and the amount of liquid required may be greater. The cooking liquid most often suggested fo r risotto is a high-quality stock or broth. Measure the appropriate quantity of stock or broth, season it if necessary, and bring to a simmer before starting to cook. Wine may replace a portion of the stock or broth in some recipes. Simmering the stock firs t shortens the risotto's cooking tim e somewhat and pro vides an opportunity to add ingredients to infuse the broth with flavor and color. Opinions d iffe r regarding whether wine should be added early in the cooking tim e or nearer the end. Some chefs prefer to combine the stock and wine and bring them to a simmer together, to cook away the harsh flavor o f raw wine and improve the dish's taste. Finely minced leeks, shallots, or onions are usually included in a risotto. Other aromatic vegetables, including garlic, mushrooms, fennel, carrots, or celery, may be added to some dishes. They should be finely cut or thinly sliced to release their flavors fully. Spices such as saffron and fresh herbs may also be added. Butter contributes a sweet, rich flavor to a risotto. Other fats and oils, especially olive oil, may also be used. Cheese, usually Parmesan or Romano, should be added as close to service tim e as possible to assure the best flavor. M eat, seafood, fish, poultry, or vegeta bles may be included. A wide, heavy-gauge saucepan or sautoir is best for making risotto. Use a spoon, p ref erably wooden or heat-proof silicone, fo r stirring, and if the risotto is to be cooled and finished later, use a sheet pan or similar wide shallow pan fo r rapid cooling.
764
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
risotto
D
basic formula
Risotto (10 servings)
1 lb/454 gfideo or similar thin noodles
(Optional: Replace up to 20% of the cooking liquid with dry white wine)
2 cups/480 mL Arborio or other medium- to short-grain
l'/z to l 3/tq t /1 .4 4 to 1.68 L stock,
Salt and pepper
broth, or water for white rices.
white or brown rice or 1 lb/454 g orzo or similar
Bay leaf, thyme, or other herbs Brown rices or small pastas may require more.
Onions or other aromatic vegetables
small pasta shapes or Grated cheese
m eth o d at-a-glan ce ex p ert tips
Heat a cooking fat. 2. Add onion and other
aromatics. Add the rice and cook it until it is glazed. Add the simmering liquid in three parts; s tir constantly as the rice absorbs the liquid. Add the wine, if used, as the fina l addition of liquid. 6 . A djust the seasoning and
serve the risotto.
There 3re three baSIC points
a
at which flavoring and/or sea
sonings may be added to the risotto.
Before the rice is added,
aromatic vegetables may be added
to sweating onion to bolster the finished flavor of a risotto. Some examples are: CAR R OTS / C E LE R Y / GARLIC
Herbs and seasonings
may be used by first adding them to the
liquid to infuse. The choice of liquid will also do a lot to determine the flavor of the finished dish and should be selected carefully to complement all the other flavors. Some common herbs and seasoning are: BAY LEAVES / SA FFR O N / W ATER FR O M R E H Y D R A T IN G D RIED M U S H R O O M S
Near or at the end of cooking,
garnish ingredients may be
added. The timing for the addition of these ingredients is important and will depend on the required cooking time of the individual ingredient: C U T OR W H O LE V E G E TA B LES , SU CH AS BRO CCOLI, PEAS, OR ASPAR A GU S / FRESH HERBS, SU CH AS B A SIL, O R EG A N O , OR SAGE / SE A FO O D, SUCH AS S H RIM P, SC A LLO PS , OR S Q U ID
For a healthier option: Use whole grains whenever possible, as they have increased health benefits; farro easily replaces Arborio rice and results in a similar final product.
ch a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
765
1. parch the rice in fat in a heavy-gauge saucepan, sautoir, or rondeau after sweating the aromat ics. Onions and other aromatic vegetables should be given sufficient time to sweat in the hot butter to fully develop their flavor. In some risottos, a cooked onion puree is used instead of chopped onions. Spices, either left whole or ground, may be added at this point as well. (If using saf fron, infuse it into the cooking liquid fo r best flavor and color.) Cooking the rice in the fat produces the correct finished texture in the risotto. Once a toasted aroma be comes apparent, stir in the firs t addition of liquid.
2. add the simmering liquid in parts. Add one-quarter to one-third of the cooking liquid to the parched rice and stir constantly over medium heat until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding portions of the cooking liquid in this manner. A fter the rice absorbs the firs t addition of the liquid, the grains appear firm and quite distinct, and no real creaminess is evident yet. A fter the rice absorbs the second addition of liquid, the grains appear more tender and they begin to adopt a creamy, sauce-like consistency.
766
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
risotto
3. stir constantly
until the entire amount of
liquid has been incorporated, the rice is fully cooked, and the risotto is creamy and thick without becoming mushy. The average cooking time fo r risotto prepared with Arborio rice is 20 minutes. Although the best risotto is prepared from start to finish just prior to service, it is possible to partially cook the dish in advance. To do this, remove the risotto from the heat after the rice has absorbed 2/3 to 3A of the total amount of cooking liquid. Pour the risotto onto a sheet pan and spread it in an even layer. Cool it rapidly and refrigerate. To finish risotto held in this manner, add the final one-quarter to one-third of the cooking liquid to a saucepan or sautoir and warm. Return all the parcooked risotto to the pot with the warmed cooking liquid and heat it over medium heat. Finish cooking until the risotto is creamy and the rice is fully cooked. This can also be done by the portion.
4. vigorously stir
butter and grated cheese
or other finishing ingredients into the risotto over low heat until well blended. Some garnish ingredients may be added early in the cooking process so that they fully cook along with the risotto. Others may be cooked separately and added at the end. (Refer to specific recipes fo r de tails.) Add fresh herbs, if desired, adjust the seasoning, and serve the risotto on heated plates. Evaluate the quality of the finished risotto. Italians describe a properly cooked risotto as a l l ' o n d a ("wave like"), meaning that the risotto has a creamy, almost por ridge-like consistency, but individual grains are slightly firm with a discernable texture. Risotto that has been cooked over too high heat or too rapidly will not develop the proper consistency, nor will it be adequately cooked. The finished consistency should be creamy and the ri sotto grains should be al dente.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
767
Black Bean Mash Makes 10 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans
Black Beans with Peppers and Chorizo Makes 10 servings
6 q t/5 .7 6 L water or Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried black beans
2 bay leaves
3 q t/2 .8 8 L water or Chicken Stock (page 263)
2 ts p /4 g dried oregano
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
3 o z/8 5 g minced bacon
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice onions
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice onion
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin
4 o z/1 1 3 g sliced Mexican chorizo
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
3 o z/8 5 g medium-dice red pepper
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 o z/8 5 g medium-dice green pepper
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
2 o z/5 7 g sliced green onions, plus additional for garnish
the beans using the long or short method (see page
1 tb sp /3 g chopped oregano
753)-
1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro
2 .. Drain the soaked beans.
Ground black pepper, as needed
3 . Combine the beans and water in a medium stockpot
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream (optional)
and add the bay leaves and dried oregano. Simmer for l hour.
4 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
5 . Remove the bay leaves, strain any excess liquid from the beans, and reduce it until syrupy. 6 . Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short method (see page 753). Drain.
2 . Combine the beans and water in a medium pot. Sim mer the beans for 1 hour.
3 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are
heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until ten
tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. Set the beans
der. Add the cumin and chopped oregano and stir to
aside in their cooking liquid.
combine.
7 . Combine the beans with the onion mixture and pu
4 . In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat and add the bacon. Cook until the bacon fat is ren
ree in a blender (working in batches if necessary).
dered. Add the onions and saute until tender and
If the mixture becomes too thick to process, add the
lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and
reduced bean liquid to thin it out. Season with salt and pepper.
cook 1 minute more, stirring frequently.
8 . Serve immediately or hold warm for service.
5 . Add the chorizo and peppers and saute, stirring fre quently, until the peppers are tender, 6 to 8 minutes. 6 . Drain the beans and add them with enough cooking liquid to keep them moist (the consistency should be that of a thick stew). You may need to add more liquid intermittently during the rest of the cooking process. Simmer the beans until the flavors have developed and all the ingredients are heated through.
7 . Add the green onions and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Serve the beans with sour cream, if desired. V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P AST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes
Makes 10 servings
4 . Stir in the beans, sun-dried tomatoes, cumin, and coriander and heat through. Season with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
5 . Heat a crepe pan or small saute pan over medium heat. Brush the pan with oil. Pour 4 fl oz/i2o mL of
CREPES
the batter into the hot pan, swirling and tilting the
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL liquid from cooked black beans
pan to coat the bottom. Cook, reducing the heat if necessary, until the first side is set and has a little
33A o z/1 0 6 g all-purpose flour 33A o z/1 0 6 g cornstarch
color, about 2 minutes. 6 . Use a thin metal or silicone spatula to loosen the
2 V i tb sp /3 7.50 g butter, melted
crepe and turn it over. Cook on the other side until
21/2 ts p /8 .5 0 g s a lt
set and very lightly browned, about 1 minute more.
5 eggs
Remove from the pan and stack the crepes between layers of parchment paper or wax paper as you cook.
FILLING
7 . Spoon about 3 tbsp/45 mL of the filling onto each
2V 2tbsp /37 mL olive oil
crepe. Sprinkle with cilantro and cheese and fold the
5 o z/1 4 2 g diced onion
crepe into quarters. Serve on heated plates with salsa and sour cream, and garnish with green onions.
5 garlic cloves, minced 2 jalapenos, seeded and minced
grain and legume recipes
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes
NOTES: The ba tte r can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 12 hours. S ubstitute Jack cheese fo r Chihuahua.
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked black beans 4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped sun-dried tomatoes V A ts p /2 .5 0 g ground cumin
ijoles Refritos
V A ts p /2 .5 0 g ground coriander Salt and ground black pepper, as needed
Makes 10 servings
Oil, as needed
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL canola oil
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped cilantro
1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
2'/2 cups/600 mL shredded queso Chihuahua
2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg Stewed Black Beans (page 775) Vegetable Stock (page 265), as needed
GARNISH
2 o z/5 7 g queso fresco, grated
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Salsa Roja (page 954)
Tortilla Chips (page 962), as needed
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream 1 o z/2 8 g green onions
1 . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until caramelized,
1 . To make the crepes, combine all the crepe ingre
7 to 9 minutes. Remove the onions and reserve for
dients in a food processor or blender. Blend for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and process for 1 minute more. The batter should be very smooth and
another use, if desired.
2 . Add the beans to the flavored oil. Mash the beans with a bean or potato masher and reduce the heat if
have the consistency of heavy cream. If necessary,
necessary to prevent burning.
adjust the consistency with milk or flour.
2 . Let the batter rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
3 . Cook the beans until they have dried out slightly. Continue to cook, stirring to prevent sticking, un
3 . To make the filling, heat the olive oil in a large saute
til they are paste-like. Adjust the consistency with
pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and jalapenos. Saute until the onions are translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
broth, if necessary.
4
.
Serve immediately with cheese and tortilla chips.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
7 71
Corona Beans (Fagioli
Creamed Pinto Beans
a ll'U c c e lle t t o )
(Frijoles Maneados)
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g dried corona beans
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried pinto beans
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL olive oil
2 q t/1 .9 2 L water
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g garlic, crushed
1 lb /4 5 4 g minced onions
4 o z/1 1 3 g prosciutto or pancetta, rough chop
5 ancho chiles, seeds and membranes removed
2 carrots, rough chop
V / 2 ts p /3 g ground cumin
4 celery ribs, rough chop
1 tb s p /1 5 g tomato paste
1 thyme sprig
V / 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g Mexican oregano
1 rosemary sprig
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL milk
1 bay leaf
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water, or as needed
3 garlic cloves, minced
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /6 g chopped rosemary
Ground black pepper, as needed
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped sage
8 o z/2 2 7 g grated queso Chihuahua
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g chopped parsley
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short method (page 753).
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short method (see page 753)-
2 . Drain the soaked beans. 3 . Heat half of the oil in a medium pot over medium
2 . Drain the soaked beans. 3 . Place the beans in a large pot with the water and onions. Bring to a simmer, covered, over medium heat and cook until tender, about 20 minutes.
4 . Heat the chiles briefly under a salamander without
heat, add the garlic, and cook until lightly browned,
allowing them to cook. Cut the chiles into chif
about 2 minutes. Add the prosciutto and cook for l
fonade and add them to the beans along with the
minute. Add the carrots, celery, thyme, rosemary,
cumin, tomato paste, and oregano.
and bay leaf and cook for 2 minutes more.
4 . Add the beans and water. Simmer for l hour. 5 . Season with salt and continue to simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. 6 . Remove the garlic, prosciutto, carrots, celery, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf and discard. The beans can be drained for immediate use, reserving some of the cooking liquid, or rapidly cooled and refrigerated in their liquid.
7 . To finish, heat the remaining oil in a sauce pot over medium heat. Add the beans with a small amount of their cooking liquid. Stir in the chopped rosemary, sage, and parsley, taking care not to break the beans. Season with salt and pepper.
5 . Using a spoon, scoop a portion of the beans (along with a little of the cooking liquid) into a blender or food processor. Puree with about 2 fl o z/6o mL of the milk. Continue pureeing portions of the beans with the milk until all the beans are pureed and all of the milk is incorporated. 6 . Heat the oil in a small rondeau over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic. Add the pureed beans and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
7 . Cover the pot, place in a 350°F/i77°C oven, and cook until smooth and thick, 45 minutes to 1 hour. 8 . Top the beans with the cheese and serve immedi ately or hold hot for service.
V E G E T A B L E S , P OTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PA S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g black beans, rinsed and picked over r
/2
Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa Makes 10 servings
tsp/B g ground cumin, toasted
1 ts p /2 g dried oregano lV 2 ts p /3 g paprika 1 ts p /2 g dried thyme 1 tb s p /1 5 g tomato paste 3 saw leaf herb leaves Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried pinto beans 2 o z/5 7 g quartered white onion 1 tb sp /9 g garlic, smashed 4 o z/1 1 3 g lard 4 o z/1 1 3 g bacon, cut into small dice 4 o z/1 1 3 g Mexican chorizo, no casing 4 3/ t o z/1 3 5 g white onion, cut into small dice 4 o z/1 1 3 g grated queso Chihuahua
6 o z/1 7 0 g onions, minced 2 o z/5 7 g canned chipotles in adobo sauce 1 serrano chile, minced 1 o z/2 8 g pitted green olives, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced
grain and legume recipes
Frijoles a la Charra
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt 1 p t/4 8 0 mL tomatoes, cut into medium dice 3 tb s p /3 0 g s a !t
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans overnight.
1 . Soak the beans overnight in three times their vol ume of water.
2 . Drain the beans from their soaking liquid. Place the beans and enough water to cover by l in/2.5 cm in a large saucepan. Add the cumin, oregano, paprika, thyme, tomato paste, saw leaf, and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cover with a lid while cooking.
3 . Heat the oil in a rondeau over medium heat and
2 .. Drain the soaked beans. 3 . Place the beans in a heavy-bottomed pot with the quartered onion, garlic, and enough water to gener ously cover the beans. Simmer until the beans are tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
4 . Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid and discarding the onion and garlic. Let the beans cool.
sweat the onions, chile, garlic and tomatoes. Con
5 . Working in batches if necessary, transfer the cooled
tinue to cook until the vegetables are soft, but not
beans to a blender. Puree with just enough of the
browned, about 10 minutes. Add this mixture to the
reserved cooking liquid to make a smooth puree. Set
beans and continue to simmer until the beans are
aside.
tender and splitting apart. Add more water to the
6 . In a rondeau or heavy-bottomed pot, heat the lard
beans if necessary during cooking to keep the beans
over medium heat. Saute the bacon and chorizo
covered by only 1 in/2.5 cm. Season with salt and
until crisp. Remove the meats from the pan and re
pepper.
4 . Hold hot for service. Serve the beans in small earth enware crocks on the plate.
serve. Add the diced onion, and saute until the onion begins to soften, 2 to 3 minutes.
7 . Add the bean puree and stir constantly to prevent sticking. When the mixture comes to a simmer, add the cheese, chipotle, olives, reserved meat, and salt. Serve hot.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
773
Middle Eastern Chickpeas
Roman-Style Lima Beans
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried chickpeas
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried lima beans
SACHET D'EPICES
BOUQUET GARNI
V2
o z/1 4 g sliced ginger
2 thyme sprigs
tsp/B g cumin seed
2 oregano sprigs
1 ts p /1.50 g coriander seed
1 rosemary sprig
I/2 tsp /1 g cracked pink peppercorns
'/ 2
V 2 tsp /1 g cracked black peppercorns
2 leek leaves, 3 to 4 in /8 to 10 cm long
V /2
tsp /1 g cracked black peppercorns
'A tsp /1 g mustard seed 5 cardamom pods 1 cinnamon stick
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced pancetta 6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onions
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vegetable oil
V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onions
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
V2
o z/1 4 g minced garlic
1 Parmesan rind (optional)
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL red wine vinegar, or as needed
Lemon juice, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak 1 . Sort the chickpeas and rinse well with cold water. Soak the chickpeas using the long or short method (see page 753).
2 . Drain the soaked beans. 3 . To make the sachet d epices, combine all the ingre dients in a piece of cheesecloth and tie into a pouch with twine.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium sauce pot over medium
753)-
2.. Drain the soaked beans. 3 . To make the bouquet garni, sandwich the thyme, oregano, rosemary, and peppercorns between the leek leaves and tie into a bundle with twine.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium sauce pot over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat has
heat. Add the onions and sweat until tender and
rendered. Add the onions and sweat until tender and
translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook another minute.
translucent, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook
5 . Add the chickpeas, stock, and sachet. Simmer for 1 hour. 6 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the chickpeas are tender to the bite.
7 . Remove and discard the sachet. Season the chick peas with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. 8 . Drain the chickpeas for immediate use or cool them rapidly and refrigerate in their liquid.
774
the beans using the long or short method (see page
another minute; do not let the garlic brown.
5 . Add the lima beans, stock, bouquet, and cheese rind, if using. Simmer the beans for 1 hour. 6 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes.
7 . Remove the bouquet and season with vinegar, salt, and pepper. 8 . Drain the lima beans for immediate use or cool them rapidly and refrigerate in their liquid.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings
Stewed Black Beans Makes 10 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g dried black beans 2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil
2 lb /9 0 7 g Boiled White Beans (page 777), drained 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions 2 ts p /1 0 mL vegetable oil 1 o z/2 8 g thinly sliced garlic 6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped onion 1 ham hock 4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice red pepper Chicken Stock (page 263), as needed 2 o z/5 7 g minced jalapenos Salt, as needed 1 o z/2 8 g minced garlic 3 chipotles in adobo sauce, finely chopped 2 fl o z/6 0 mL sherry vinegar 3 o z/8 5 g small-dice sun-dried tomatoes 4 o z/1 1 3 g tomato concasse Ground black pepper, as needed 2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak
grain and legume recipes
Southwest White Bean Stew
the beans using the long or short method (see page 753)-
1 . Puree half of the cooked beans. Combine with the remaining beans.
2 . Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over mediumhigh heat. Add the onions, peppers, jalapenos, and garlic. Saute until the onions are translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the beans and saute, stirring constantly, until heated through.
4 . Add the vinegar and concasse and continue to saute until very hot.
5 . Stir in the cilantro and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
2 . Drain the soaked beans. 3 . Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sweat until translucent.
4 . Add the beans, ham hock, and enough stock to cover the beans by 1 in/3 cm - Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
5 . Add the salt, chipotles, and tomatoes. Continue to simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. 6 . Remove the meat from the ham hock, discard the bones, dice the meat, and add it back to the beans. Season with salt and pepper.
7 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
775
Falafel
Rice and Beans
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
11 o z/3 1 2 g dried chickpeas, sorted, rinsed, and soaked overnight
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried red kidney beans, sorted, rinsed, and soaked
11 o z/3 1 2 g dried fava beans, sorted, rinsed, and soaked for 24 hours
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced bacon
1 bunch parsley, chopped 3 green onions, finely chopped 1 tsp/2gcayenne 1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 1'A ts p /2.50 g ground coriander 6 garlic cloves, crushed with 1 tsp salt l'/t t s p /3 .7 5 g baking powder
2 garlic cloves, minced V/2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 5 o z/1 4 2 g long-grain white rice 8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk V A o z/4 3 g chopped green onions 1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying
1 . Drain the beans. 2 . Render the bacon in a medium saucepan over low
1 . Drain the soaked beans. Rinse and dry them.
heat. Add the garlic and sweat until aromatic. Add the
2 . In a food processor, blend the beans, parsley, onions,
stock and beans. Simmer until the beans are tender.
cayenne, cumin, coriander, garlic, baking powder, and salt together in batches until the mixture is homogeneous.
3 . Form the mixture into balls l to 1V2 in/3 to 4 cm in diameter. Slightly flatten the balls.
4 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a large rondeau or fryer and deep fry the falafel until crisp and brown, about 4 minutes.
3 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
4 . Add the rice and coconut milk to the beans. Cover and simmer until the rice is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed, about 20 minutes.
5 . Gently fold in the green onions and thyme and sea son with salt and pepper. 6 . Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
5 . Remove and drain briefly on paper towels. Serve immediately.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g dried red kidney beans, sorted, rinsed, and soaked
5 . Bring the water to a boil in a heavy pot and add 2V2 oz/71 g salt. Add the rinsed rice to the boiling water and simmer over low heat until tender, 10 to 15 min utes. Stir the rice occasionally as it cooks to prevent burning. 6 . Serve the beans immediately on a bed of the rice or hold everything hot for service.
4 o z/1 1 3 g andouille sausage, ' / 2-in /l-c m slices 1 ham hock 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 2 o z/5 7 g small-dice celery
Boiled White Beans
2 o z/5 7 g small-dice green pepper
Makes 10 servings
4 garlic cloves, minced 1 o z /2 8 g bacon fa t Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Hot sauce, as needed 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g long-grain white rice l
’/2
g al/5 .7 6 L water
1 . Drain the soaked beans, transfer them to a medium stockpot, add the sausage and ham hock, and cover with water by at least l in/3 cm - Simmer the beans until they are completely tender. If necessary, add additional water to keep the liquid 1 in/3 cm above the beans as they cook. Remove from the heat and reserve the beans, sausage, and ham hock in the cooking liquid.
2 . Saute the onions, celery, green peppers, and garlic in the bacon fat in a large rondeau until they begin to turn golden brown. Add the cooked beans, meats, and liquid and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. The beans should remain brothy. If necessary, add additional water.
3 . Remove the meat from the ham hocks, discard the bones, cut the meat into medium dice, and add back to the beans. Mash enough of the beans with the back of a spoon so that they become creamy. Add
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried white beans 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil 4 o z/1 1 3 g chopped onion
grain and legume recipes
Red Beans and Boiled Rice
1 ham hock (optional) 2 q t/1 .9 2 L w ater or Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 Standard Sachet d'Epices (page 241) Salt, as needed
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short method (see page
753)2 . Drain the soaked beans. 3 . Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onions and sweat until translucent.
4 . Add the beans, ham hock, if using, water, and sachet d epices. Simmer the beans for 1 hour.
5 . Season with salt and continue to simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. 6 . If using, remove the meat from the ham hock, dis card the bones, cut the meat into a medium dice, and add it back to the beans.
7 . Remove the sachet depices. 8 . Drain the beans for immediate use or cool them rap idly and refrigerate in their liquid.
hot sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
4 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
777
Vegetarian Chili Makes 10 servings
5 . Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions, peppers, garlic, chipotle, adobo sauce, and poblanos and saute until aromat
1 lb /4 5 4 g dried black beans Salt, as needed 2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
ic and just turning golden. 6 . Add the chili powder, cumin, coriander, and cin namon and cook until aromatic. Stir in the tomato paste, and cook for 2 minutes.
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onion
7 . Add the wine and reduce by two-thirds. Add the 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice green pepper
stock and tomatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice red pepper
gently until the vegetables are tender, 8 to 10
8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice yellow pepper
minutes.
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g minced garlic
V i to 1 chipotle in adobo sauce, finely chopped 1 ts p /5 mL adobo sauce
8 . Add the drained beans and cook 5 minutes more.
9 . Add the masa slurry to the chili, mix well, and bring back to simmer. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar.
2 poblanos, roasted, seeded, and peeled, small dice
0 . Serve immediately, garnished with cheese, sour 2 ts p /4 g Chili Powder (page 3 6 8 or purchased)
cream, and cilantro, or hold hot for service.
1 tb sp /6 g ground cumin 3A ts p /1.50 g ground coriander Pinch ground cinnamon 2 'A o z/71 g tomato paste 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL white wine 28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265) 5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice tomato o z/1 4 g masa harina, mixed with vegetable stock to make a slurry
'/ 2
Ground black pepper, as needed Sugar, as needed 8 o z/2 2 7 g grated Monterey Jack 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream 3 tb sp /9 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 . Sort the beans and rinse well with cold water. Soak the beans using the long or short method (see page 753)-
2 . Drain the soaked beans. 3 . Transfer the beans to a large stockpot and add wa ter to cover generously. Simmer for l hour.
4 . Add salt and continue to simmer until the beans are tender to the bite, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain well and reserve.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Rice Pilaf Makes 10 servings 2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice 2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter or vegetable oil 3A o z/21 g minced onion 28 to 32 f I o z/8 4 0 to 960 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
Wheat Berry Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f wheat berries fo r the long-grain white rice. Soak them overnight in cold water in the re frig era to r and drain before cooking. Increase the stock to 40 f I o z/1 .2 L. Increase the cooking tim e to between 1 and lVth'ours.
Pearl Barley Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f pearl barley fo r the long-grain white rice. Increase the stock to 40 to 4 8 f I oz/1.2 to 1.44 L. Increase the cooking tim e to 40 minutes.
1 bay leaf 2 thyme sprigs Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over
Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and Green Onions Makes 10 servings
medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring fre quently, until tender and translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
3 . Add the rice and saute over medium-high heat, stir
2 cups/480 mL long-grain brown rice V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter or oil
ring frequently, until coated with butter and heated
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
through, 2 to 3 minutes.
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
4 . Add the stock and bring to a simmer, stirring to pre vent the rice from clumping together or sticking to the bottom of the pot.
5 . Add the bay leaf, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover the
1 Standard Bouquet Garni (page 241) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
pot and place it in a 350°F/i77°C oven or leave it
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pecans, chopped
over low heat on the stovetop. Cook until the grains
2 o z/5 7 g sliced green onions
are tender to the bite, 16 to 20 minutes. 6 . Allow the rice to rest 5 minutes, fluff with a fork,
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa
and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf (Valencia): S ubstitute an
medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring fre
equal amount o f short-grain white rice fo r the longgrain. Decrease the stock to between 16 and 2 4 fl
quently, until tender and translucent, 5 to 6 minutes.
o z/4 80 and 720 mL. Increase the cooking tim e to between 2 0 and 30 minutes.
Converted White Rice Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f converted white rice fo r the long-grain. Use 2 8 f I oz/8 40 mL chicken stock. Increase the cooking tim e to between 20 and 25 minutes.
Wild Rice Pilaf: S ubstitute an equal amount o f wild rice fo r the long-grain. Increase the stock to 2 q t/1 .9 2 L. Increase the cooking tim e to 45 minutes to 1 hour.
3 . Add the rice and saute over medium-high heat, stir ring frequently, until coated with butter and heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.
4 . Add the stock to the rice and bring to a simmer, stir ring to prevent the rice from clumping together or sticking to the bottom of the pot.
5 . Add the bouquet garni, salt, and pepper. Cover the pot and place it in a 350°F/i77°C oven or leave it over low heat on the stovetop. Cook until the grains are tender to the bite, 35 to 40 minutes.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
a fork to fold in the pecans and green onions while
Arroz Blanco Makes
10
servings
separating the grains and releasing the steam. Serve immediately or hold hot for service.
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice Hot water, as needed
Short-Grain Brown Rice Pitaf: Substitute an equal amount of short-grain brown rice fo r the long-grain. Decrease the amount o f stock to V A q t/1 .2 0 L. Decrease the cooking tim e to between 30 and 35 minutes.
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced onion 1 garlic clove, minced 2 ts p / 6 g salt, or as needed 2 f I o z/6 0 mL canola oil 2 parsley sprigs
Annatto Rice Makes
10
servings
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice 1 o z/2 8 g butter 3A fI o z/2 2.50 mL annatto paste 1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice Standard or White Mirepoix (page 243) V 2 Scotch bonnet, seeded and minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 bay leaf
1 . Cover the rice with hot water and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain the rice in a strainer.
2 . Rinse the rice in the strainer under cold water until the water runs clear. Remove excess water from the rice by shaking the strainer vigorously.
3 . Puree the onions, garlic, salt, and 4 fl oz/120 mL hot water in a blender.
4 . Heat the canola oil in a medium saucepan over me dium heat and saute the rice until it crackles when stirred, about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the pureed ingredients and 24 fl oz/720 mL hot
28 f I o z/8 4 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
water and bring to a full boil. Allow to boil for 3
Salt, as needed
minutes.
Ground black pepper, as needed
grain and legume recipes
D. Allow the rice to rest 5 minutes. Uncover and use
6 . Season with salt and add the parsley. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover with a tight-fitting lid.
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
Cook until small holes appear in the rice, about 20 minutes. Fluff with a fork, remove the parsley, re cover, and hold hot for service.
2 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over low heat and add the annatto paste. Stir to dissolve the paste.
3 . Add the mirepoix, Scotch bonnet, garlic, and bay leaf. Cook over medium heat until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes.
4 . Add the rice, stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to a sim mer. Cover, and cook in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 12 to 15 minutes.
5 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
chapter 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
781
Arroz Mexicano
Arroz Brasileiro
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g white long-grain rice
l'/2 o z /4 3 g butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g Roma tomatoes, cut into medium dice
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
3 o z/8 5 g white onion, medium dice
r
'/ 2
ts p /1.50 g minced garlic
/2
ts p /4 .5 0 g minced garlic
2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice
2 tb s p /2 0 g salt, plus more as needed
1 clove
2 fl o z/6 0 mL canola oil
28 to 32 f I o z/8 4 0 to 9 6 0 mL hot water
26 f 1o z/7 8 0 mL water
Salt, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g serrano chiles, minced
Ground black pepper, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, cut into small dice 3 o z/8 5 g green peas 3 o z/8 5 g potatoes, cut into small dice Parsley sprigs
1 . Heat the butter in a heavy-gauge medium pot over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and saute until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.
2 . Add the rice, stirring constantly, until the rice has absorbed the butter and the grains are translucent.
1 . Cover the rice with hot water and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain the rice in a strainer.
2 . Rinse the rice in the strainer under cold water until the water runs clear. Remove excess water from the rice by shaking the strainer vigorously.
3 . In a blender or food processor, puree the tomatoes, onions, garlic, and salt until smooth.
3 . Add the clove and water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat, season with salt and pepper, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes.
4 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a fork, remove the clove, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
4 . Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and saute the rice until it crackles when stirred, about 3 minutes.
5 . Add the puree to the rice and cook until it changes color and dries out, 4 to 6 minutes.
Coconut Rice Makes 10 servings
6 . Add the water and bring to a full boil. Add the chiles, carrots, peas, potatoes, and parsley. Taste and season
14 o z/3 9 7 g long-grain white rice
with salt if necessary.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil or melted butter
7 . Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover with a tightfitting lid. Cook until small holes appear in the rice,
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL water 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
about 20 minutes. Salt, as needed
8 . Fluff with a fork, remove the parsley sprigs, and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Heat the oil in a heavy-gauge medium pot over medi um heat. Add the rice and saute, stirring frequently, until coated with butter and heated through.
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
son with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Cover and cook in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 12 to 15 minutes.
4 . Allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes, fluff it with a fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Si's/): Fold 8 oz/2 2 7 g cooked green peas into the prepared riso tto during the last few minutes o f cooking.
Risotto with Asparagus Tips: Fold 2 / 2 oz/71 g blanched asparagus tip s into the prepared riso tto during the last few m inutes o f cooking. Finish the riso tto by adding 4 o z /1 13 g g ra te d Parmesan, 4 o z /1 13 g butter, and l ’/z oz/43 g chopped parsley.
Risotto Makes 10 servings 2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
Risotto alia Milanese Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g butter 2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
V / 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), hot
V * ts p /0 .6 0 g saffron threads
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
grain and legume recipes
3 . Add the water and coconut milk to the rice and sea
3 o z/8 5 g minced onion
1 . Sweat the onions in the butter in a heavy-gauge saucepan, sautoir, or rondeau until softened and
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
2 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the butter.
2 f 1o z/6 0 mL dry white wine
Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until a
5 o z/1 4 2 g butter
toasted aroma rises, about 1 minute.
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated Parmesan
3 . Add one-third of the stock and cook, stirring con stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock.
4 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is just tender
1 . Heat the stock in a medium sauce pot over low heat. Add the saffron and season with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
2.. Sweat the onions in 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a me
and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should
dium sautoir or sauce pot until softened and translu
be creamy.)
cent, 6 to 8 minutes.
5 . Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately or hold warm for service.
3 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until a toasted aroma rises, about 1 minute.
Parmesan Risotto: Prepare the risotto, replacing up to onequarter o f the stock w ith a dry white wine. Add the wine to the stock as it heats to a simmer fo r the best flavor. Finish the ris o tto by adding 4 o z /1 13 g grated Parmesan and 4 o z /1 13 g butter.
Wild Mushroom Risotto: Soak 3 oz/85 g dried wild mushrooms in 8 f l o z/2 40 mL warm water fo r 30 minutes to 1 hour. Drain the mushrooms and add to the bu tte r w ith the onions. Strain the soaking liquid through a paper filte r to remove any sediment, measure it, and use it to replace an equal amount o f the stock.
4 . Add the wine and cook until dry. 5 . Add one-third of the stock and simmer, stirring con stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock. 6 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is just tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should be creamy.)
7 . Stir in the butter, cheese, and the remaining oil. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve im mediately or hold warm for service.
Chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
783
Vegetarian Risotto Makes 10 servings
7 . Serve the risotto topped with the vegetables, sage, parsley, and pumpkin seeds, or gently fold the mix ture into the risotto.
2 lb /9 0 7 g kale, cut into small dice Oil, as needed 2 lb /9 0 7 g butternut squash, small dice 2 'A o z/6 3 g minced onion 2 o z/5 7 g butter
Risotto with Mussels Makes 10 servings
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
5 lb /2.27 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded
13A q t/1 .6 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 265)
V A q t/1 .2 0 L Fish Fumet (page 255), hot
1 Standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
2 o z/5 7 g minced onion
3 o z/8 5 g shaved Parmesan
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter
3 f I o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
2 cups/480 mL Arborio rice
2 lb /9 0 7 g portobello mushrooms, cut into small dice
r
2 lb /9 0 7 g red peppers, roasted, peeled, cut into small dice
/2
o z/4 3 g chopped parsley
1 . Steam the mussels in a small amount of salted water
3A o z/21 g chopped sage
in a covered tall pot until the shells open. Remove
V A o z/4 3 g chopped parsley
the mussel meat from the shells and reserve. Decant
5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted pumpkin seeds
and strain the cooking liquid.
2.. Bring the stock and the cooking liquid from the mus 1 . Blanch the kale briefly in simmering salted water. Shock in ice water, drain, and reserve.
2 . Lightly oil a small roasting pan and add the butternut squash. Roast in a 400°F/204°C oven until just soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve.
3 . Sweat the onions in the butter in a medium pot until soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the rice and mix thoroughly. Cook, stirring, until a toasted aroma rises, about 1 minute.
4 . Add one-third of the stock and the sachet and cook, stir ring constantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock. Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding the next. Cook the risotto until the rice is tender but with a pleasing texture and most of the liquid is absorbed.
5 . Remove the sachet. Season the risotto with salt and pepper. Stir in the cheese. Hold warm. 6 . When ready to serve, heat the vegetable oil in a me dium saute pan. Add the mushrooms and saute until
sels to a simmer in a medium sauce pot and season with salt and pepper. Keep hot.
3 . Sweat the onions in 2 oz/57 g of the butter in a me dium sautoir or sauce pot until softened and translu cent, 6 to 8 minutes.
4 . Add the rice and mix thoroughly with the butter. Cook, stirring constantly, until a toasted aroma rises, about 1 minute.
5 . Add one-third of the stock and simmer, stirring con stantly, until the rice has absorbed the stock. 6 . Repeat, adding the remaining stock in two more por tions, allowing each to be absorbed before adding the next.
7 . Add the mussel meat and cook until the rice is just tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. (The dish should be creamy.) 8 . Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley and the remaining 4 oz/113 g butter. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the kale, squash, and pep pers. Saute until the mixture is heated through, toss ing to combine the vegetables.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes 10 servings 2 cups/480 mL long-grain white rice 3 q t/2 .8 8 L water Salt, as needed
Sushi Rice Makes 10 full-size rolls or 20 half rolls 3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg short-grain rice Cool to cold water, as needed 1 piece kombu, 6-in /15-cm square (optional) 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 V i o z/7 1 g sugar V A o z/3 5 g sea salt
2 . Bring the water to a rolling boil in a large sauce pot and add salt.
3 . Add the rice in a thin stream, stirring it with a fork to prevent the grains from clumping as they are added. (There should be enough water to cover the rice.)
1 . Rinse the rice in a strainer under cold water until the water runs semiclear. Transfer the rice to a bowl, cover with cool water, and soak 1 hour. Drain well.
2 . Combine the drained rice with 2 qt/1.92 L water in
When the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to a
a rice steamer. Steam until the rice is almost com
simmer and cover the pot.
pletely cooked, about 30 minutes.
4 . Simmer the rice until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain immediately in a colander and set the colander in the pot. Return to the heat to steam the rice dry for 5 minutes. (The rice should no longer be sticky.)
5 . Fluff with a fork and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
grain and legume recipes
Basic Boiled Rice
3 . Allow the rice to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes.
4 . If using the kombu, slash it with a knife in a few places and wipe it with a damp cloth, only to remove any sand, being careful not to remove any flavorful white powder. Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, and kombu in a small saucepan. Warm over low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Do not let the mixture boil. Cool to room temperature.
Steamed Long-Grain Rice (L0 Han) Makes 10 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g long-grain Chinese rice I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L water, or as needed
5 . Transfer the rice to two hotel pans (2 in/5 cm deep). Drizzle with the vinegar mixture. Use a wooden rice paddle to “cut” and fold the rice with horizontal strokes. Continue until the mixture has cooled and takes on a shiny appearance. 6 . Combine the two pans of rice and serve immediately or refrigerate for later use.
1 . If desired, rinse the rice in a strainer under cold wa ter until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well.
2 . Place the rice in a half hotel pan and add water to cover by V4 in/6 mm.
3 . Cover tightly with plastic wrap and cook in a steamer or rice cooker until the grains are tender, 45 minutes.
4 . Allow the rice to rest for 10 minutes, fluff it with a fork, and serve immediately or hold hot for service.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
785
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage
Makes 10 servings 2
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL vegetable oil
Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos (Mamuang Koo Nieo) Makes 10 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice Chinese sausage 6 o z/1 7 0 g minced onion 8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice carrots, blanched
14 o z/3 9 7 g sticky rice, soaked overnight 22 f I o z/6 6 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk 12 o z/3 4 0 g Thai palm sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice shiitake mushrooms 3A o z/21 g salt 8 o z/2 2 7 g roughly chopped napa cabbage 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg cooked long-grain rice, chilled Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
l ' A o z/3 5 g granulated sugar 1 o z /2 8 g rice flour 2 tb s p /3 0 m L w a te r 4 mangos, peeled, pitted, and sliced
8 o z/2 2 7 g snow peas, cut into 3/t-in /2 -c m squares 5 eggs, beaten 2 fl o z/6 0 mL mushroom soy sauce, or as needed (optional)
1. Heat2floz/6om Loftheoilinawokovermedium
heat.Addthesausageandcooktorenderthefat. 2 . Increasetheheatandaddtheonions. Stir-fryuntil aromaticandbeginningtobrown. 3.A ddthecarrots,mushrooms,andcabbage,inthat order,allowingtimeforeachingredienttobegin browningbeforeaddingthenext. 4 .A ddtherice,salt,andpepperandstir-fryuntilthe riceishotandbeginstobrown. 5.A ddthesnowpeasandcookuntiltheyarebright green. 6. Addtheremainingoiltothesidesofthewokand drizzletheeggmixturearoundthetopoftherice.As theeggmixturecooks,folditintotherice.Addthe soysauce,ifusing. 7.Adjustseasoningwithsalt,pepper,andsoysauce, if using.Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
grain and legume recipes
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage
1. Drainthesoakedriceandplaceitinanelectricrice
steamerwithwaterorinabamboosteamerlined withcheeseclothoverawokofsimmeringwater. Steamuntilthegrainsaresoft,20to25minutes. 2.. W hilethericeissteaming,combine5V2floz/165 mLofthecoconutmilkwiththepalmsugarand1 tbsp/10gofthesaltinasmallsaucepan.W armover lowheattodissolvethesaltandsugar.Mixwelland setaside. 3.W henthericeisdone,transferittoabowl.While stillhot,addthecoconutmilk-sugarmixture.Using aspatula,stirtocoatthegrainsquicklyandevenly. Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntiltherice absorbstheliquid,about15minutes. 4 . Com binetheremainingcoconutmilk,salt,andthe granulatedsugarinasaucepan.Bringtoaboiland reducetheheat. Combinethericeflourandwater andmixwell.Whilethesauceissimmering,drizzle inthericeflourslurry,stirringconstantly.Returnto aboil,immediatelyremovefromtheheat,andset aside. 5. Serveim mediatelywithV2to1floz/15to30mLof thecoconuttoppingandmangoslicesperserving,or holdhotforservice.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
787
Paella Valenciana Makes 10 servings 20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count) 3 fl o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 ]A ts p /1 .8 0 g crushed saffron
5.A ddthemusselsandshrimp.Coverandcookfor5
to7minutes. Duringthelastminute,addthepeas. (Addmorestockduringcooking,ifnecessary,sothat thericedoesnotdryout.) 6. Serveimmediately,garnishedwithgreenonionsand piquillopeppers.
2 A q t/2 .1 6 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed 10 whole chicken legs, separated Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Saffron Rice Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice onion 6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice red pepper 6 o z/1 7 0 g large-dice green pepper V / 2 o z/4 3 g minced garlic 6 o z/1 7 0 g dry Spanish chorizo, sliced 1 in /3 mm thick 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Spanish rice 6 o z/1 7 0 g peeled, seeded, and large-diced tomato 20 clams, little necks, scrubbed 3 lb /1.36 kg mussels, scrubbed and debearded 6 o z/1 7 0 g green peas, cooked V / 2 o z/4 3 g thinly sliced green onion 4 piquillo chiles, cut into julienne
1 .Peelanddeveintheshrim p,reservingtheshells.
Sautetheshellsin2tbsp/30mLoftheoiluntilthey turnpink.Addthesaffronandstockandsimmerfor 30minutes. Strainandreservehot. 2 . Seasonthechickenwithsaltandpepper.Pour2 tbsp/30mLoftheoilintoapaellapanandheatto thesmokepoint.Addthechickenandbrownonall sides. Removefromthepanandreserve. 3.Pourtherem ainingoilintothepanandaddtheon ion,andpeppers. Sauteovermediumheatfor2to3 minutes.Addthegarlicandsautefor1minute.Add thechorizoandrice,stirringtocoatthericewiththe oil. 4 .A ddthetomatoesandthereservedstock.Addthe chickenandanyjuicesitreleased.Addtheclams. Coverthepan,reducetheheat,andcookuntilall theclamshaveopened,about5minutes. Donotstir thericeduringthecookingprocess.
2 lb /9 0 7 g basmati rice V / 2 gal /5 .7 6 L water It b s p /lO g s a lt 2 o z/5 7 g butter 2 fl o z/6 0 mL milk V / 2 ts p /1 .20 g saffron threads, crumbled
1. Rinsethericeinastrainerundercoldw ateruntil
thewaterrunsclear. Drainthericewell. 2 . Bringthewatertoaboilandaddthesalt. 3.Lightlybutteram ediumrondeau.Prepareparch mentpaperandaluminumfoiltouseasacoverfor therondeau. 4.M elttheremainingbutterinasmallsaucepotand addthemilkandsaffron.Setasidetosteep. 5.A ddthericetotherapidlyboilingwater,cover,and cookfor7minutes. Drainthericeinacolanderand transfertothebutteredrondeau. 6. Ladletheinfusedmilkoverthericeandtosslightly withaforktocombine.Donotstir. 7.Tightlycovertherondeauw ithparchmentpaperand thenaluminumfoil. 8. Bakeina400°F/204°Covenfor15minutes. 9 .Allowthericetorestfor5m inutesuncovered,fluff itwithafork,andserveimmediatelyorholdhotfor service.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
IBS
Makes 10 servings 3 fl o z/9 0 mL olive oil, plus as needed for grilling 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g onions, minced 1 lb /4 5 4 g green peppers, seeded, cut into small dice 1 lb /4 5 4 g celery, cut into small dice 3 garlic cloves, minced V 2 o z/1 4 g paprika '/ 2
tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Pinch ground white pepper Pinch cayenne BBQ. Spice Rub (recipe follows) 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into medium dice 1 q t/9 6 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265) 1 tb sp /6 g dried oregano Salt, as needed 2 bay leaves V* cup/120 mL basil chiffonade 1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme V / 2 ts p /7.50 mL Worcestershire sauce 1 tb s p /1 5 mL hot sauce 12 o z/3 4 0 g zucchini, cut on the bias V i in/1 cm thick (10 slices) 12 o z/3 4 0 g yellow squash, cut on the bias Vz in/1 cm thick (10 slices) 2
V i red peppers, quartered (10 quarters)
Z. Coverandcookuntilthevegetablesbegintosoften, about10minutes.Addthetomatoeswiththeirjuic es,thestock,oregano,salt,andbayleavesandstir untilcombined.Addthebasil,thyme,Worcester shire,andhotsauceandbringtoasimmer. Reserve thejambalayasimmeringliquidwarm. 3. Preparethezucchini,yellowsquash,redpeppers, redonions,andeggplantforgrillingbylightlybrush ingthemwitholiveoilandseasoningbothsides liberallywithBBQspicerub.Reserve. 4 . Com binethericeinasaucepanwith36floz/i.o8L ofthejambalayasimmeringliquid.Covertightly andbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Finish cookingthericeina350°F/i77°Covenuntiltherice ischewy-tender, 10to12minutes. Reservetherice warm. 5. Tofinishthedish,grillthezucchini,yellowsquash, redpeppers,redonions,andeggplantuntiltender. Holdinawarmoven. 6. Mixthecookedriceintothejambalayabaseover mediumheat.Adjustseasoningwithsalt,pepper, andBBQspicemixandholdinawarmoven. 7. Plateeachportionofthejam balayainalarge, flatbowl.Topwith1slicezucchini, 1sliceyellow squash,onequarterofaredpepper, 1sliceredon ion,and1sliceeggplant. 8. Garnisheachportionwith2tbsp/30mLgreen onions.
grain and legume recipes
Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya
BBQSpice Rub Makes 3A cup V 2 cup/80 g salt
2 red onions, sliced into V H n /l-c m rounds (10 slices)
V* cup/28 g paprika or pimenton
1 eggplant, peeled, sliced into V H n /l-c m rounds (10 slices)
V / 2 ts p /3 g onion powder V / 2 ts p /3 g garlic powder
3 cups short-grain rice (sushi-style) 1 ts p /2 g cayenne GARNISH
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
1. Heattheoliveoilinarondeauoverhighheat. Gen
tlysautetheonions,peppers,celery,garlic,paprika, blackandwhitepeppers,cayenne,andltbsp/15mL oftheBBQspicerubuntillightlybrowned,about3 minutes.
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper V 2 ts p /1 g ground white pepper
Combinealltheingredientsandmixwell. Reserve inanairtightcontainer.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
791
Rice Croquettes
Basic Polenta
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Basic Boiled Rice (page 785) or Risotto (page 783) 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy Bechamel Sauce (page 295) 3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan 3 egg yolks
5 q t/4 .8 0 L water Salt, as needed 1 q t/9 6 0 mL coarse yellow cornmeal 2 o z/5 7 g butter Ground black pepper, as needed
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 7 o z/1 9 8 g bread crumbs, or as needed 3 o z/8 5 g cornmeal, or as needed 8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023), or as needed 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1. Blendthepreparedricew iththebechamel,cheese,
andeggyolks. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. Spread themixtureinanevenlayeronabuttered,parch ment-linedsheetpan.Placeasheetofplasticwrap overthemixtureandrefrigerateforseveralhoursor overnighttochillandfirmtherice. 2 . Com binethebreadcrumbsandcornmeal. Cutthe riceinthedesiredshape,dredgeitintheflour,and shakeofftheexcess. Dipthecroquettesintotheegg wash,thenintothebreadcrumbmixture. 3. H eattheoilto350°F/i77°Cinaheavydeeppotand deepfrythecroquettesuntilgoldenbrown,5to6 minutes. Drainbrieflyonpapertowelsandserve immediately.
1. Bringthew atertoaboilovermediumheatina
heavy-bottomedmediumstockpotandseasonwith salt. 2 . Pourthecornm ealintothewaterinastream,stir ringconstantlyuntilithasallbeenadded.Reduce theheattolow.Simmer,stirringoften,untilthepo lentapullsawayfromthesidesofthepot,about45 minutes. Itshouldnottastestarchyorgritty. 3. Rem ovethepotfromtheheatandblendinthebut ter. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. 4 . Serveim mediatelyassoftpolentaorholdwarmun tilservice. NOTE: For firm polenta, decrease the amount o f water to 1 gal/3.84 L. A fte r blending the bu tte r into the polenta, spread the m ixture onto a greased or plastic wrap-lined half sheet pan and refrigerate until cool enough to cut into desired shapes. Finish by sauteing, pan frying, grilling, or baking.
Polenta with Parmesan: S ubstitute Chicken Stock (page 263) fo r the water. Sweat Vi oz/1 4 g minced shallot and 1 tb s p /9 g minced garlic in 1 o z /2 8 g bu tte r until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the stock and cook the polenta according to the above method. Remove the pot from the heat and s tir in 3 egg yolks and 2 oz/57 g grated Parmesan.
792
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
grain and legume recipes
Grits w ith Corn and
■e Makes 10 servings 1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
Makes 10 servings
2-in /5-cm piece ginger, crushed 1 lb /4 5 4 g coarse white grits 1 lb /4 5 4 g skinless, boneless chicken thighs 2 q t/1 .9 2 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g long-grain white rice 2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 tb s p /1 5 mL fish sauce 9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g minced onion Salt, as needed '/ 2
o z/1 4 g minced garlic
IO V 2 o z/2 9 8 g seeded, minced poblano chile 5 o z/1 4 2 g seeded, minced red pepper
CONDIMENTS 2 f I o z/6 0 mL soy sauce 2 tb s p /3 0 mL fish sauce
lt b s p /lO g s a lt 1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g corn kernels, fresh or thawed frozen 1 lb 7 o z/6 5 2 g cooked and drained hominy
2 tb s p /3 0 mL chili sauce 2 tb sp /2 g dried shrimp 3 tb sp /9 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 shallot, sliced GARNISH
1 o z/2 8 g toasted peanuts, crushed
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced tomatoes 2 V i o z/7 1 g Monterey Jack, shredded
1. Com binethegritsandstockinaheavypotandbring
toaboilovermediumheat. Lowertheheat,cover, andsimmeruntilthegritsaretender,45to50 minutes. 2 .M eanwhile,heattheoilinalargesautepanover mediumheat.Addtheonionsandsauteuntiltrans lucent,4to5minutes. 3.A ddthegarlic,poblanos,andredpeppers. Coverand cookoverlowheatuntilthepeppersaresoftened, about10minutes. Seasonwithsalt. 4 . Stirinthegritsandsauteuntilcom bined,about1 minute. Fluffwithaforkandstirinthecornand hominy.Gentlyheatthrough. 5. Cover,rem ovefromtheheat,andletstandfor5 minutes. Seasonwithpepper.Garnisheachserving with2tbsp/23gtomatoesandV oz/7gcheese,and servewarm.
1. Putthew aterandgingerinalargepotandbringto
aboil.Addthechickenandsimmeruntilcooked through,about20minutes. Removethechicken fromtheliquid,cooltoroomtemperature,andshred intobite-sizepieces. Reservethechickenunder refrigeration. 2 . Rem ovethegingerfromtheliquidanddiscard. Returntheliquidtomediumheat.Addthericein athinstream,stirringitwithaforktopreventthe grainsfromclumpingastheyareadded.Whenthe waterreturnstoaboil,reducetheheattoasimmer andcover. 3. Sim merthericeuntiltender,about25minutes.Add thefishsauceandsalt.Adjusttheconsistencywith water,ifnecessary;thecongeeshouldbesoupy. 4 .A ddthechickenmeattothecongee. Sprinklethe condimentsoverthericeandserveimmediately.
4
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
795
M illet and Cauliflower Puree Makes10servings B tb sp /4 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil 14 o z/3 9 7 g cauliflower i r / 4 o z / 3 1 9 g millet 1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
]Ats p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper 33 fl o z/9 9 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) I V 2 fl o z/4 5 mL heavy cream 1 o z/2 8 g Roasted Garlic (page 634)
1. H eattheoilinalargepotovermediumheat.Add
thecauliflowerandsauteuntilgoldenbrown,4to5 minutes.Addthemilletandstirconstantlyuntilit turnsgolden,about3minutesmore. 2 . Seasonwiththesaltandpepper.A ddthestockand bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Lowertheheatto medium-lowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,until themilletistenderandbursts,about30minutes. 3. Rem ovefromtheheat.Addthecreamandgarlic. 4 .W orkinginbatchesifnecessary,pureethemillet mixtureinafoodprocessororblender. Ifthemix tureistoothick,addmorestockasneeded. 5. Ifthepureehascooled,returnittothepanandstir overlowheattoheatthrough.Servewarm.
1 sprig thyme 8 black peppercorns 1 sprig parsley 2 tb s p /2 0 g s a lt
V2ts p /1 g ground black pepper 1 . Rinsetheryeberries,w heatberries,wildrice,and
pearlbarleytogetherinastrainer.Drainwell. 2.. H eattheoilinalargepotovermediumheat.Add theonionsandcookuntiltranslucent,4to5min utes.Addthegarlicandcookuntilfragrant,about1 minutemore. 3.A ddthegrains,stock,bayleaf,thyme,peppercorns, parsley,salt,andpepper.Bringtoaboilovermedi umheat,cover,andsimmeroverlowheatuntilsoft, about1V2hours. Iftheliquidisnotentirelygone, increasetheheatandcook,uncovered,for5to10 minuteslonger,stirringfrequently. 4 .Allowthefinishedpilaftorestfor5m inutes.Fluff withaforkandserveimmediatelyorholdforservice.
Green Onion-Bulgur Pilaf Makes10servings 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g coarse-grain bulgur 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 10 o z/2 8 4 g sliced green onions
Mixed Grain Pilaf
1 o z/2 8 g tomato paste
Makes10servings
3 3/ t q t/3 .6 0 L water I V 2 ts p /3 g sweet paprika
9V2 o z/2 69 g rye berries
6V2o z/1 8 4 g wheat berries
V/2ts p /3 g hot paprika Salt, as needed
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g wild rice Ground black pepper, as needed 5 V i o z/1 5 6 g pearl barley
1 fl o z/3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 5 o z/1 4 2 g red onion, minced 2 tb sp /1 8 g minced garlic 2 'A q t/2 .4 0 L Chicken Stock (page 263) 1 bay leaf
1. W ash,rinse,anddrainthebulgurinafine-mesh
sieve. 2 .H eathalfoftheoilinamediumsaucepanover medium-highheat.Addthegreenonionsandsaute for30secondsto1minute.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D P A S T A A N D D U M P L I N G S
. Stirinthetomatopasteandcookovermediumheat, 30secondsto1minute. .Addthebulgurandsauteovermedium-highheat, stirringfrequently,untilcoatedwithtomatopaste andheatedthrough,2to3minutes. .Addthewaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat. Addthepaprikasandseasonwithsaltandpepper.
Green O nion-Bulgur Pilaf
. Simmerthebulgurmixture,covered,untilallthe waterisabsorbed,about20minutes. .Allowthebulgurtorestfor10minutes.Gentlydress itwiththeremainingoil. . Serveimmediatelyorholdhotforservice.
W heat Berry Salad w ith Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans
Makes
10
servings
2 egg whites, lightly beaten
Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans Makes
10
servings
14 o z /3 9 7 g kasha 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or Vegetable Stock (page 265) Salt, as needed l
'/ 2
o z/4 3 g butter
3 o z/8 5 g toasted pecans, chopped 2 f I o z/6 0 mL maple syrup
17'/2 o z/4 9 6 g oranges, supremed (see page 891), juices reserved 1 ts p /3 g chopped thyme V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped rosemary V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g chopped sage 2 fl o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 tb s p /3 0 mL champagne vinegar
Cayenne, as needed l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt
1. Com binetheeggwhitesandkashainamedium
saucepanandcookoverlowheat,stirringconstantly, for2minutes,untildryandlightlybrown. 2 .A ddthestock,salt,andbuttertothekashaandbring toaboiloverhighheat. Reducetheheattolowand simmer,covered,forabout15minutes,oruntilthe kashaistendertothebite. 3. Rem ovefromtheheatandletsteamforabout5min utes.Uncoverandfluffthekashabyliftingitgently withtwoforkstobreakupanylumps. 4 .W hilethekashasteams,combinethepecans,maple syrup,andcayenneinasmallsautepan.Heatover lowheatuntilthepecansarewellcoatedandthe maplesyruphasreducedtoaverythickconsistency. 5. Scatterthespicedpecansoverthekashaandserve immediatelyorholdhotforservice.
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
grain and legume recipes
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans
12 o z/3 4 0 g wheat berries, cooked 2 o z/5 7 g dried cherries, plus as needed 2'/2 o z/7 1 g pecans, toasted
1. W hisktogethertheorangejuice,thyme,rosemary,
sage,oil,andvinegarinalargebowl.Seasonwith thesaltandpepper. 2 .A ddthewheatberries,cherries,pecans,andorange supremes.Tosstocombine. 3. Garnishwithadditionalcherriesandpecans, if desired.
chapter 24 » C O O K I N G G R A I N S A N D L E G U M E S
799
Barley Salad with Cucumber and Mint
Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
9V2 o z / 2 6 9 g pearl barley
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g cherry tomatoes
7 '/t o z/2 0 6 g cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice 7 o z/1 9 8 g eggplant, roasted, peeled, and cut into small dice 3 o z/8 5 g chopped parsley
lt b s p /lO g s a lt 1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic 12 o z/3 4 0 g bulgur
V* oz/21 g chopped mint
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL water
VA o z/3 5 g thinly sliced green onion
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g arugula
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 4Vz f I o z/1 3 5 mL lemon juice
1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes 3 tb sp /4 5 mL lime juice
1 tb sp /9 g grated lemon zest
Vao z/21 g honey
lt s p /3 g s a lt
V2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Va ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
1. Putthebarleyinabow landcoverwithcoldwater.
Soakfor30minutes. 2 .D rainthebarleywell.Transferittoamediumpot, coverwithsaltedwater,andbringtoaboiloverhigh heat. Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilten der,40to50minutes. 3. Drainthebarleyandrinsewithcoldw ater. Drain wellandcoolcompletely. 4 . Tosstogetherthebarley,tom atoes,cucumbers,egg plant,parsley,mint,andgreenonionsinalargebowl tocombine. 5.W hisktogethertheoliveoil,lemonjuice, lemon zest,salt,andpepperinasmallbowl. 6. Pourthedressingoverthebarleymixtureandtoss tocoat. Serveimmediatelyorchilluntilneededfor service.
800
V/2 o z/4 3 g drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, minced
1. H eattheoliveoilinalargesautepan.Addthecher
rytomatoesandcookovermedium-highheatuntil softened,2to3minutes. 2 .A ddthesun-driedtomatoesandcontinuecooking for2to3minuteslonger,untiltender. Seasonwith salt. 3. Reducetheheattom edium-low.Addthegarlicand bulgurandsauteuntilfragrant, 1to2minutes. 4 .A ddthewaterandbringtoaboilovermediumheat. Reducetheheattolowandsimmeruntilthebulgur istender,10to15minutes. 5. Fluffwithafork.Gentlyfoldinthearugula.Season withtheredpepperflakes,limejuice, honey,and blackpepper.Tosstocombine. Servewarm.
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
mm
Makes10servings
Amaranth Pancakes Makes10servings 10 o z/2 8 4 g whole amaranth 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour
12 o z/3 4 0 g cracked wheat 1 ts p /3 g baking powder 2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut into medium dice
1 ts p /3 g salt
8 o z/2 2 7 g red onion, cut into medium dice
4 V 2 o z/1 2 8 g sugar
3 o z/8 5 g fresh mozzarella, cut into medium dice
1 lb /4 5 4 g eggs
3 tb sp /4 5 mL red wine vinegar
1 q t/9 6 0 mL buttermilk
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 f I o z/6 0 mL melted butter
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
Vegetable oil or clarified butter, as needed
V i o z/1 4 g chopped basil 2 ts p /4 g red pepper flakes lt s p /3 g s a lt
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
VAo z/4 3 g finely grated Parmesan (optional) 1. Placethecrackedw heatinamediumpot,cover
withsaltedwater,andsimmeruntiltender,30to35 minutes. Removefromtheheatanddrain,pressing toreleaseanyexcessmoisture. Letcooltoroomtem perature. 2.. Tossthetom atoes,onion,andmozzarellainalarge bowltocombine. 3.W hisktogetherthevinegar,oliveoil,oregano,basil, andpepperflakesinasmallbowl.Seasonwiththe saltandpepper.Addtothetomatomixtureandtoss tocoat.Addthewheatandtosswell. 4 . Serveatroomtem peratureorchilluntilneededfor service. Ifdesired,garnishwiththeParmesan.
1. Heatalargedrysautepanoverm edium-highheat
andaddtheamaranth,shakingthepantomakea singlelayer.Cook,stirringoccasionallytoprevent browning,untilthegrainsbegintopop.Continueto cookuntilthepoppingslowsdown.Removefrom theheatandsetasidetocool. 2..Com binethecooledamaranth,flour,bakingpowder, salt,andsugarinalargebowl.Makeawellinthe center. 3. Com binetheeggsandbuttermilkandmixwell.Pour allatonceintothecenterofthedryingredients. Slowlymixwithawhiskinacontrolledcircular motion. 4 .A ddthebutterwhenaboutthree-quartersofthedry ingredientsaremoistened.Continuetomixonly untilthebutterisworkedin.Donotovermix. 5. Keepthebattercool, ifm akinglargebatches,by holdingitinanicewaterbath,orbydividingand keepingtheextrabatterintherefrigerator. 6. Heatalargesautepanorgriddlepanovermedium heatandlightlygreaseitwithvegetableoil. 7. Ladleapproxim ately2V2 floz/75mLofthebatter intothepanforeachpancake.Whenbubblesontop breakandthebottomisgoldenbrown,1to2min utes,turnover.Finishcookingonthesecondside. Repeatwithremainingbatterandservewarm.
grain and legume recipes
Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad
Cracked W heat and Tomato Salad
Chapter 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
803
Saigon Crepes Makes10servings 1 o z/2 8 g yellow split mung beans
Fontina Risotto Fritters Makes10servings
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk 8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r i r / 4 oz/B19 g rice flour 1/2 o z /1 4 g sugar 1 tsp /B g s a lt 1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric
l'Ao z/3 5 g minced green onion 1 o z/2 8 g chopped cilantro stems and roots Oil, as needed 8
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg chilled Risotto (page 783) 2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan 2 eggs 2 ts p /4 g red pepper flakes Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1 lb /4 5 4 g fontina, cut into 1 /4 in/6-m m cubes
'Ao z/2 3 4 g bean sprouts
V2 o z/1 4 g cilantro leaves
5 o z/1 4 2 g bread crumbs
Cilantro-Lime Soy Sauce (page 956) or Sriracha, as needed.
I V 2 o z/4 3 g grated Parmesan
1 .Toastthem ungbeanslightlyinadrypanovermod
erateheattodevelopanuttyaroma. 2.. Soakthebeansinw atertocoveruntiltheysoften,8 hoursorovernight. 3. Drainthebeansandcom binewiththecoconutmilk, water,riceflour,sugar,salt,andturmericinablend er.Pureeuntilsmooth.Strainintoabowl. 4 . Stirinthegreenonionsandcilantrostem sand roots. 5. H eata6-in/i5-cmcrepepanovermedium-highheat withasmallamountofoil. Pour4floz/120mLbat terintothehotpan.Pressafewsproutsandcilantro leavesintotherawsideofthepancake. Drizzlea smallamountofoilontothesproutsandherbs. 6. Cookovermedium-highheatforabout4minutes, nicelybrowningthebottom.Flipandcooktheother sideuntillightlybrown,3to4minutes. Repeatwith theremainingbatter. 7.Turnouteachcrepeontoacuttingboardandfoldto formacrescent.Cutintothirdsandservethethree piecesoverlappedwithavegetariandippingsauce.
804
FRITTERS
14 o z/3 9 7 g all-purpose flour, or as needed 4 eggs, beaten Vegetable oil, as needed for frying
1 .Tom akethefritters,mixtherisotto,Parmesan,eggs,
andredpepperflakesinamediumbowl.Season withsaltandpepper,ifnecessary(seeNote). 2.. W rapabout1V2oz/43gchilledrisottoaroundapiece offontinaandrolltomakeasmallball.Repeatwith theremainingrisottoandcheese.Placetheballs ontoabakingsheet,cover,andrefrigerateuntil needed. 3. Com binethebreadcrumbsandParmesan.Coat thechilledrisottoballswiththeflour,eggs,andthe breadcrumbmixtureusingthestandardbreading procedute(seepage365). Repeatwiththeremaining fritters. 4.H eattheoilinadeepfryerto350°F/i77°C.Frythe frittersuntiltheyaregoldenbrownandrisetothe surface,5to7minutes. Servewarm. NOTE: Salt and pepper may not be needed if the riso tto is seasoned.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Makes10servings 2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 5 3/» o z/1 6 3 g minced onion r /2 o z/4 3 g small-dice celery 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 lb /4 5 4 g Arborio rice 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL white wine 36 fl o z/1 .0 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 265) 6 ears corn, kernels removed from the cobs 3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced green onion 2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 4 o z /1 13 g Asiago cheese, grated 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL heavy cream lt b s p /lO g s a lt
Vi tsp /1 g ground black pepper 8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2’/ t o z/6 4 g bread crumbs SAUCE 2 tb s p /3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g onion, cut into small dice 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 10 o z/2 8 4 g fennel, cut into small dice 1 sprig thyme 3 sprigs parsley 1 bay leaf 18 f I o z/5 4 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265), or as needed 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice 1 ts p /3 g salt Ground black pepper, as needed Vegetable oil, as needed for frying
1 .Heattheoliveoilinam ediumpotovermedium-
highheat.Addtheonion,celery,andgarlicand sweatuntiltender,4to5minutes.Addthericeand cookfor2to3minutesmore. 2 .A ddthewine,reducetheheattolow,andbringto asimmer.Cook,stirringfrequently,untiltherice absorbsthewine. 3.Usingaladle,addthestockprogressively,andstir untilthestockisabsorbedbeforeaddingmore. Continueuntilthericeisnearlytender, 15to20 minutes. 4 .Stirinthecorn,greenonions,chives,andparsley andcooktoheatthrough,about2minutesmore. 5.Foldinthecheese. Stirinthecream . Seasonwith thesaltandpepper. 6. Lightlygreaseahalfsheetpanandspreadtheri sottointothepaninanevenlayer.Cooltherisotto for10minutesatroomtemperature,thencover andtransfertotherefrigeratorandcoolforatleast 1hour. 7.Usea4to5-in/ioto13-cmroundcuttertocutthe risottointocakes.Coatthecakeswiththeflour, eggs,andbreadcrumbsusingthestandardbread ingprocess(seepage365). Placethebreadedcakes onaparchment-linedsheetpanandcoveruntil readytofry. 8. Tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinamedium potovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandsweat untiltender,4to5minutes.Addthegarlicand sauteuntilfragrant,about1minutemore. 9 .A ddthefennel,thyme,parsley,andbayleaf.Cover themixturewiththestockandbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntilthevegetablesareverysoft,about10 minutes. 10.Removethethymeandparsleystemsandthebay leaf.Pureethemixtureinablenderorfoodproces soruntilsmooth,addingmorestockasneeded. Seasonthesaucewithlemonjuice,salt,andpep per. Reserve. 11 .Heatasm allsautepanwithabout%in/2cmveg etableoilovermediumheatuntiltheoilreaches 350°F/i77°C.Panfrytherisottocakesuntilgolden brownoneachside,about3minutesperside. 12 .Servethecakeswiththesauce.
grain and legume recipes
Corn and Asiago Cheese Risotto Cakes
NOTE: The ris o tto cakes can also be de ep fried .
c h a p te r 24 » C O O K IN G G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S
805
Wild Rice Cakes Makes 10 servings RICE CAKES 1 o z/2 8 g butter 13 o z/3 6 9 g minced celery 11 o z/3 1 2 g minced red pepper r /2 o z/4 3 g thinly sliced green onions
’/2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic '/2 o z/1 4 g minced ginger 2 tb s p /3 0 mL hot sauce 2 eggs 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 9 0 3 or purchased) 11 fl o z/3 3 0 mL sour cream
'/2 o z/1 4 g chopped chives 8 o z/2 2 7 g canned hominy, drained and rinsed
1. H eatthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium
heat.Addtheceleryandpepperandsauteuntilten der,4to5minutes. Removefromtheheatandlet cooltoroomtemperature. 2 . Inalargebow l,mixthegreenonions,garlic,ginger, hotsauce,eggs,mayonnaise,sourcream,chives,and hominytocombine. Pureeone-thirdofthemixture tocreateabinder. 3. Returnthepureedm ixturebacktothebowlandstir inthewildrice,flour,andthecooledcelerymixture. Seasonwithsaltandpepper. 4 . Formthericem ixtureinto2-oz/57-gcakesthatare approximatelyx/i in/1.25cmthick.Coatthecakes withtheflour,eggs,andpankousingthestandard breadingprocedure(seepage365). 5. HeataboutlAin/6m moilovermediumheat. Fry thecakesuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,3to5min utesperside. Serveimmediately.
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g cooked wild rice 15 o z/4 2 5 g all-purpose flour 1 o z/2 8 g salt 1 tb sp /6 g ground black pepper
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 all-purpose flour 4 eggs, beaten 4 o z /1 1 3 g p a n k o Vegetable oil, as needed for frying
806
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
The immense popularity of pastas and dumplings is not at all surprising. Nutritious and highly versatile, these foods are an important element of most cuisines. They are based on ingredients that are inexpensive and easy to store flour or meal, and eggs. They adapt well to a number of uses and can be found on contemporary menus as appetizers, entrees, salads, and even desserts.
T h e f o r m u l a f o r f r e s h p a s t a m a y be t h o u g h t o f a s t h e b a s e r e c ip e t o p r o d u c e a s t if f d o u g h T H A T C A N BE E N D L E S S L Y V A R I E D TO P R O D U C E M Y R I A D S H A P E S , F L A V O R S , A N D C O L O R S . T h e G E N E R A L C A T E G O R Y O F P A S T A I N C L U D E S B O T H D R I E D A N D F R E S H N O O D L E S . P A S T A M A Y BE P R E P A R E D F R E S H O N T H E P R E M I S E S O R P U R C H A S E D E I T H E R F R E S H OR D R I E D . T H E R E A R E A D V A N T A G E S TO B O T H F R E S H A N D D R I E D P A S T A S . F r E S H P A S T A G I V E S T H E C H E F F R E E D O M TO C R E A T E D I S H E S W I T H S P E C I A L F L A V O R S , C O L O R S , S H A P E S , O R F I L L I N G S , B U T I T H A S A L I M I T E D S H E L F L I F E . D R I E D P A S T A C A N BE S T O R E D A L M O S T IN D E FIN ITE LY .
making fresh pasta, noodles, and dumplings Changing th e ra tio o f flo u r to liquid or in tro d u cin g o th e r in g re d ie n ts in to a basic pasta f o r mula produces doughs and b a tte rs th a t are handled and cooked d iffe re n tly fro m the base recipe. For exam ple, th e am ount o f liquid can be increased to cre a te a s o ft b a tte r fo r spa tzle. This b a tte r is cut o f f a spa tzle board o r dropped throu gh a colander or spa tzle m aker in to sim m e ring liquid, ra th e r than ro lle d or e xtrud ed as f o r a th ic k e r pasta dough. A dding a leavener to the basic pasta fo rm u la produces a s o ft b a tte r th a t can be used f o r la rge r dum plings w ith a b re a d -like te x tu re th a t are sim m ered in a stew or o th e r liq uid. A ltho ug h th e te rm "dum pling" may mean som e th in g very sp e c ific to an in dividu al or p a rtic u la r ethnic group, it a ctu a lly is a very broad cate gory. Some dum plings are based on doughs and b a tte rs , and o th e rs on in gre die nts ranging fro m bread to pureed p o ta to e s. The popular Chinese dim sum, including steam ed yea st doughs and frie d egg rolls, is ye t an o th e r category. D um plings may be cooked in d iffe re n t ways, according to type . They may be sim m ered in liquid, steam ed, poached, baked, pa n -frie d , o r d e e p -frie d . A v a rie ty o f in g re d ie n ts can be used. See the recipes included in th is ch a p te r f o r sp e c ific in stru ctio n s. Because flo u r provides th e s tru c tu re in pasta, it is im p o rta n t to choose one th a t has the necessary q u a litie s f o r m aking the be st possible dough. A ll-p u rp o se flo u rs can be used succe ssfully fo r m ost fre s h pasta. W hole w heat flou r, sem olina, cornm eal, b uckw heat flou r, rye flo u r, ground legum es (chickpeas, f o r instance), and o th e r special flo u rs and meals can be used to replace a p o rtio n o f th e all-pu rpo se flo u r, g ivin g th e pasta unique flavo r, te x tu re , and color. E xp e rim e n ta tio n is o fte n the be st way to de te rm in e how to use special flo u rs. R efer to th e recipes in th is ch a p te r fo r guidance on types, ratio s, and su b s titu tio n s .
808
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
p e cia lly im p o rta n t to have th e p ro p e r am ount o f m o istu re , m any recipes call fo r water. Doughs th a t are to o dry or to o m o is t are d iff ic u lt to ro ll out. N e u tra l o r fla v o re d oil is o fte n used in pasta doughs to keep th e dough pliab le and easy to w o rk w ith . A dding s a lt to the dough helps to develop flavo r. A d d itio n a l in gre die nts, such as herbs, veg etab le purees, or c itru s zest, may be added to fre s h pasta dough to change its color, fla vo r, o r te x tu re . If the se added fla v o rin g o r co lo rin g in g re d ie n ts con tain a lo t o f m oisture, it is necessary to ad ju st the basic fo rm u la , by e ith e r using a d d itio n a l flo u r o r less water. V egetable purees used fo r fla v o r o r co lo r are o fte n dried s lig h tly by cooking in an open vessel in o rd e r to co n ce n tra te th e ir fla vo rs. Fresh pasta and noodles can be covered and re frig e ra te d f o r up to tw o days. If the pasta is cut in long strands, sprinkle it w ith cornm eal, sem olina, o r rice flo u r to keep the strand s fro m s tic k in g to g e th e r. Hold th e pasta on tra y s lined w ith p la s tic wrap, and cover it w ith p la s tic w rap as well. Filled pastas should be held on pa rch m e n t-lin e d sheet trays, arranged so th a t th e y are n o t to u ch in g each other. If th e pasta is to be sto re d f o r m ore than tw o days, ro ll long strand s o f n o n fille d pastas in to loose nests and arrange the m on pa rch m e n t-lin e d she et trays. S et th e tra y s in a warm, d ry place f o r several days, u n til th e pasta has hardened and dried. Once dried, pasta may be held, w ell w rapped, in a cool, d ry place th e same w ay as com m e rcial dried pastas. Fresh pasta, esp ecially fille d pastas such as to r te llin i and ravioli, may also be fro ze n success fu lly . E quipm ent needs f o r fre s h pasta are ve ry basic, though a fe w special pieces o f eq uip m ent can make th e jo b even sim pler. A t th e very least, you w ill need your hands, a ro llin g pin, and a knife . Or use an e le c tric m ixe r w ith a dough hook o r a fo o d processor to m ix the dough, and a p a s ta -ro llin g machine to ro ll it out. C u ttin g a tta c h m e n ts th a t re s u lt in un iform cu ts o f pasta are available f o r ro llin g machines.
ch a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
making fresh pasta, noodles, and dumplings
Eggs are fre q u e n tly included in fre s h pasta to pro vid e m oistu re, flavo r, and stru ctu re . D iffe re n t fo rm u la s may sp e cify th e use o f w hole eggs, yolks, o r w h ites. Because it is es
809
D
basic formula
Fresh Pasta
4 whole eggs
Oil
1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL water
Other flavoring or garnishing
(10 portions) 1 lb/454 g "00" pasta flour or all-purpose flour
ingredients as desired Salt
method at-a-glance 1. Mound all the dry ingredients on a work surface and make a well in the center. 2. Combine all the wet
ingredients and pour them into the well. 3. Working rapidly, pull the
dry ingredients into the wet ingredients, mixing them together to form a rough dough.
expert tips Q Making fresh pasta
is exciting not only because of its fresh flavor
and tender texture but also because it provides another opportunity to intro duce flavor to a dish.
Use d iffe re n t flours
in combination with all-purpose flour to cre
ate flavor: B UCKW HEAT / C O R N M E A L / RICE / R YE / S E M O L IN A / W H O LE W HEAT
Add flaVOr to pasta dough
during mixing with the addition of
herbs, spices, flavored or infused liquids, and vegetable purees:
4. Knead the dough until it
is smooth, and let it rest before rolling it out.
FLAVO RED OR IN FU S E D L IQ U ID S / S Q U ID INK
HERBS AND SPICES: B A SIL / P A R S LE Y / SAGE / S A FFR O N / D RIED HERBS SUCH AS R O S E M A R Y
VEGETABLE PUREES: C ARROT / SP IN A C H / TO M ATO
For a dramatic effect,
whole herbs and even edible flowers can
be rolled between two pieces of pasta: B A SIL LEAVES / C H E R V IL LEAVES / PA R S L E Y LEAVES
For a healthier option:
Use whole grains whenever possible, as
they have increased health benefits: less refined whole wheat or other flours can be used to make fresh pasta.
810
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
making fresh pasta
1. mix pasta dough by hand o r by machine. For sm all batches, it may be ju s t as e ffic ie n t to m ix th e dough m anually. Large batches, on th e o th e r hand, can be made much m ore ea sily w ith a fo o d p ro ce sso r or e le c tric mixer. To m ix the dough by hand, com bine the flo u r and s a lt in a bowl o r on a w o rk surface and make a w ell in the center. Place the eggs, fla v o rin g ingredients, and oil ( if using) in the well. W orking as rap id ly as possible, gradually incorporate the flo u r in to the liquid ingredients un til a loose mass form s. To m ix in a fo o d processor, place all th e in g re d ie n ts in th e bow l o f a fo o d p ro ce sso r f it t e d w ith a ste e l blade. Process u n til blended. The dough should look like a coarse m eal th a t w ill cohere when pressed in to a ball. Do not overprocess. To m ix in an e le c tric m ixer, place all th e in g re d ie n ts in th e bow l o f a m ixe r f it te d w ith a dough hook. M ix a t m e dium speed u n til th e dough fo rm s a sm oo th ball th a t pulls cleanly away fro m th e bowl's sides. As the dough is mixed, adjust the consistency w ith ad d itio n a l flo u r or water, to com pensate fo r the variatio ns in ingredients, hu m id ity in the kitchen, or the ad dition o f op tio n a l fla v o rin g ingredients. On very dry days, it may be
m eth o d in detail
necessary to add a fe w drops o f w a te r to reach the desired consistency.
2. knead the dough u n til p ro p e rly de vel oped. L e t th e dough re s t b e fo re ro llin g and c u ttin g . Once m ixed, w h e th e r by hand, processor, o r m ixer, th e dough should be tu rn e d o u t o n to a flo u re d w o rk surface and kneaded u n til th e te x tu re becom es sm o o th and elastic.
ch a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
8ll
3. gather and smooth the dough in to a ball, cover, and le t it relax a t room te m p e ra tu re fo r a t le a st 1 hour. If it is n o t s u ffic ie n tly relaxed, it w ill be d iff ic u lt to ro ll in to th in sheets. This re s tin g phase is p a r tic u la rly im p o rta n t i f th e dough is to be ro lle d by hand. E valuate th e q u a lity o f th e fin is h e d fre s h pasta dough. In general, pasta dough should be sm ooth, fa irly elastic, a n d ju s t s lig h tly m o is t to th e touch. If th e dough is e ith e r ta c k y (fro m excess m o istu re ) o r c ru m b ly (to o dry), it w ill be d iff ic u lt to ro ll o u t p ro p e rly. Experience is th e be st guide f o r d e te rm in in g when th e p ro p e r con sisten cy has been reached.
4. guide the pasta
th ro u g h th e machine
a t th e w id e s t s e ttin g . Reduce the s e ttin g as you ro ll the pasta to cre a te th in sheets. Cut o f f a piece o f dough (the am ount w ill vary, de pending on th e w id th o f th e m achine) and fla tte n it; cover th e rest. S et th e ro lle rs to th e w id e s t opening and begin to guide th e dough th ro u g h th e machine to fo rm a long, w ide s trip , lig h tly flo u rin g it as necessary to prevent stickin g . R oll th e pasta dough in to th in sheets and cut in to th e de sire d shapes. Hold th e dough under p la s tic w rap i f it is n o t to be cooked im m e dia te ly. Pasta and egg noodle doughs can be ro lle d and cut by hand o r using a pasta machine. To ro ll by hand, fla tte n a piece o f dough ab o u t th e size o f an orange on a flo u rdu sted w o rk surface. Using a ro llin g pin, w o rk fro m the ce n te r o f th e dough to th e edges w ith a b a c k -a n d -fo rth m o tio n to ro ll and s tre tc h th e dough, tu rn in g it occasion ally and d u stin g it w ith flo u r, u n til it reaches th e desired thickn ess. Once ro lle d in to sheets, the pasta can be cut w ith a k n ife in to th in s trip s f o r f la t o r rib b o n -s ty le pastas such as fe ttu c c in e or linguine, o r stam ped w ith c u tte rs in to squares o r circles to make fille d pastas such as ravioli.
812
VE G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
making fresh pasta
5. join the two ends
o f th e she et to ro ll
it in one con tinu ou s loop. In th is m etho d o f ro llin g pasta, fo ld th e s trip in to th ird s , like a le tte r, and run it th ro u g h the ro lle rs again. R epeat th is ste p one o r tw o tim e s, f o ld ing th e dough in to th ird s each tim e . If necessary, d u s t the dough w ith f lo u r to keep it fro m s tic k in g to th e ro lle rs and tea ring . Continue to ro ll th e pasta th ro u g h th e machine, s e t tin g th e ro lle rs a t a na rro w e r s e ttin g each tim e , u n til the she et o f pasta is th e de sire d thickn ess. The dough should fe e l sm oo th and n o t a t a ll ta cky. To p re ve n t drying, keep it covered when n o t w o rk in g w ith it. NOTE: D iffe r e n t m achines have d iffe re n t m etho ds o f o p e ra tio n . These d ire c tio n s are f o r m aking p a s ta s he ets w ith th e com m on tw o -ro lle r h a n d -o p e ra te d m achine. (Tube p a sta s, such as m a ca ro n i o r z iti, are m ade by fo rc ing the dough th ro u g h a sp e cia l die in an e x tru s io n p a s ta m aker.)
6. cut the sheets of pasta
using a m a
chine a tta ch m e n t, a kn ife , o r c u tte rs . The pasta may be cooked fre s h as is, o r placed on racks or lo ose ly fo rm e d in to n e sts and allow ed to d ry f o r storage.
c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
813
Cook p a s ta a n d n o o d le s , b o t h
fre sh
and
d rie d ,
in
a
la rg e
am ount
o f
s a lte d
w a te r
to
E N S U R E TH E BEST FLA VO R A N D AN E V E N A N D A P P E A L IN G T E X T U R E . S O M E PASTAS A N D N O O D L E S COOK V E R Y R A P I D L Y . O T H E R S T A K E S E V E R A L M I N U T E S TO C O O K P R O P E R L Y . I f Y O U A R E W O R K I N G W I T H A N U N F A M I L I A R S H A P E O R S T Y L E O F C O M M E R C I A L L Y M A D E P A S T A , BE S U R E TO C O N S U L T T H E I N S T R U C T I O N S ON T H E PACKAGE.
asta and noo A ll pasta has th e b e st fla v o r and te x tu re if it is served as soon as possible a fte r cooking. This is esp ecially tru e o f fre s h pasta. However, th e re are a p p ro p ria te techniques to hold cooked dried pastas to s tre a m lin e cooking durin g service (see H o lding Pasta f o r Service, page 818). Dry and fre sh pasta and noodles should be chosen according to the menu o r recipe req uire m en ts. W a te r is th e m ost com m on cooking liquid, although some p re pa ration s may call f o r s tock. S alt is added to th e w a te r as it comes to a boil. For m ost pasta and noodles, choose a p o t th a t is ta lle r than it is wide. Filled pasta may be prepared in p o ts th a t are w id e r than th e y are ta ll to make it easier to rem ove th e pasta w ith o u t breaking it. For large am ounts o f pasta, you may use special pasta cookers, which resem ble deep fry e rs . Place th e pasta in a w ire or p e rfo ra te d ba sket w ith a handle and low er it in to b o ilin g o r sim m e rin g w a te r u n til cooked, then l i f t th e ba sket o u t o f th e w ater, allow in g th e pasta to drain. Have available colanders, strain ers, and skim m e rs to drain the pasta.
814
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Cooking Pasta (10 servings)
About V / 2 oz/43 g salt for every 1 gal/3.84 L water
Finishing ingredients, including: Salt and pepper
1 lb 8 oz/680 g dry pasta Grated cheese Plenty of water (at least l
'/ 2
gal/5.76 L)
Sauces Oils
method at-a-glance expert tips
]. Bring the salted w ater to a rolling boil.
cooking pasta and noodles
Q basic formula
2. Add the pasta and s tir it to
separate the strands. 3. Cook the pasta until it is
tender but not soft. 4 . Drain the pasta
A1 dente pasta is the most desired doneness for the majority of pas tas or noodles. The term al dente is Italian for "to the tooth" and refers to pas ta that is very slightly crisp, instead of mushy or overcooked. Cook the pasta or noodles until they can be bitten into easily, but still offer a slight resistance and sense of texture.
im m ediately and serve it at once or refresh it in ice cold w ater to stop the cooking.
c h a p te r 25 » C O O KIN G PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
815
1. bring a large amount
o f w a te r to
a ro llin g boil. A llo w a m inim um o f 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L w a te r fo r every 1 lb /4 5 4 g pasta. Add 3A to 1 o z/2 1 to 2 8 g s a lt to each gallon o f co o kin g w a te r. Taste th e w a te r b e fo re add ing pasta. It should be n o tice a b ly salty, b u t n o t unpleas a n tly so. Add f la t or e xtru d e d pasta and noodles all a t once to th e b o ilin g w a te r. Long s tra n d s should be g e n tly sub m erged in th e w a te r as th e y so fte n . E specially in th e be ginning, s tir th e pasta a fe w tim e s to sep ara te th e strand s or shapes and p re ve n t the m fro m s tic k in g to g e th e r. Lower fille d pastas in to th e w a te r and reduce the heat to a sim m er th ro u g h o u t coo kin g tim e to keep th e shapes fro m b re a kin g a p art. Cook th e pasta u n til it is p ro p e rly cooked and tender. Drain im m e d ia te ly in a colander. Some pastas and noodles cook very rapidly. Fresh pasta may cook in less than 3 m inutes; d ried pasta may ta ke up to 8 m in utes o r longer, depending on th e size and shape. If you are w o rk in g w ith an u n fa m ilia r shape o r styte o f pasta, be sure to co n su lt th e in s tru c tio n s on the pack age. The m o st accu rate te s t f o r doneness is to b ite in to a
method in detail
piece or strand, as w e ll as to break a p a rt a stra n d or piece and look a t th e in te rio r. As pasta cooks, it becom es tra n s lu cen t th ro u g h o u t. An opaque or n o ta b ly d a rker core or c e n te r shows th a t th e pasta is n o t co m p le te ly cooked. Drain th e f la t o r e xtru d e d pasta or noodles in a colan der, shaking g e n tly to help th e cooking w a te r drain away. Tube shapes are prone to holding w a te r; g e n tly s tirrin g the m w ith gloved hands helps to drain away as much w a te r as possible. F illed pastas should be lifte d fro m th e cooking w a te r g e n tly w ith a sp id e r o r s lo tte d spoon to avoid b u rs t ing them . They may be tra n s fe rre d to a colander to drain or b lo tte d b rie fly on to w e ls to rem ove excess water. Fresh pasta is b e st served im m e d ia te ly. It is ready to sauce o r o th e rw ise fin is h and serve now. D ried pasta may be p ro p e rly cooled and s to re d f o r la te r service. NOTE: Reserve som e o f th e dra in e d p a s ta w a te r to a d ju s t the sauce's consistency, i f necessary.
816
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
cooking pasta and noodles
2. evaluate the quality o f th e cooked pasta. P ro p e rly cooked d rie d pasta is te n d e r b u t s till has te x tu re (top) w h ile overcooked pasta is m ushy (b o tto m ). P ro p e rly cooked d rie d pa sta is te n d e r b u t w ith a d isce rn ible te x tu re , a s ta te known as al de n te (Ita lia n f o r "to the to o th ”). Fresh pasta cooks rap id ly, w hich makes it easy to overcook; it should be c o m p le te ly cooked b u t n o t raw or doughy. Pasta and noodles should rem ain separate and s tirre d once o r tw ic e as th e y cook. Pasta th a t has been cooled and held should be p ro p e rly re h ea te d when serving. Sauces and o th e r fin is h in g in g re d ie n ts paired w ith pasta and noodles should be chosen to com p le m e nt the shape o r te x tu re o f th e pasta (see Pairing Pasta w ith Sauces below).
PAIRING PASTAWITH SAUCES
Saucesarecustomarilyselectedtosuita particulartypeofpasta.Long,flatpastas suchasfettuccineorlinguinearegenerally servedwithsmooth,lightsaucessuchas creamsauces,vegetablecoulis,orbutter andcheesecombinationsthatwillcoatthe strandsevenly.Tubepastassuchaselbow macaroniorzitiandtwistedpastassuchas fusilliarenormallypairedwithmoreheav ilystructuredsauces,suchasameatsauce oronewithagarnishoffreshvegetables, becausetheseshapesareabletotrapthe
Apastasflavorisalsoanimportant considerationwhenchoosingasauce. Thedelicateflavoroffreshpastaismost successfullypairedwithlightcreamor butter-basedsauces.Heartiersauces,such asthosethatincludemeats,areusually combinedwithdriedpastas. Filledpastasrequireonlyaverylight sauce,becausethefillingprovidesacertain amountofflavorandmoisture.Asauce thatwilloverwhelmtheflavorofthefilling isinappropriate.
c h a p te r 25 » C O O KIN G PASTA A N D D U M P L IN G S
817
general guidelines for serving fresh and dried pasta Pasta dishes are su ite d to m any d iffe re n t service styles. The speed and ease o f preparing pasta makes it a good choice f o r a la ca rte resta u ra n ts; in fa c t, som e re s ta u ra n t kitchens include a separate pasta s ta tio n on the h o t-fo o d line. When p ro p e rly prepared, handled, and held, pasta can also be used fo r banquet and b u ffe t service. Both th e pasta and the accom panying sauces can be prepared in advance. For a la carte service, cook o r reheat the pasta as close to service tim e as possible. Since pasta loses heat rapidly, be sure to heat th e bowls or p la te s on which it is to be served and serve it im m e dia te ly. For b u ffe t service, choose s tu rd y pastas th a t w ill hold up w ell. Fully p re h e a t the steam ta b le o r heat lamps b e fo re placing the pasta on the b u ffe t line. Cook, reheat, a n d /o r fin ish the pasta as close to serving tim e as possible. Choose a h o te l pan deep enough to contain the pasta c o m fo rta b ly , b u t n o t so large th a t th e pasta is spread o u t in a th in layer, where it w ill lose heat and m o istu re rapidly. Even in a steam ta b le , heat is lo s t rapidly. There is a lim it to how long pasta dishes can be held succe ssfully fo r b u ffe t service, so t r y to p u t out sm aller am ounts and replenish it fre q u e n tly . H olding pasta dishes over heat fo r to o long can cause th e sauce to dry o u t and the pasta to begin to lose its te x tu re .
HOLDI NG PASTA FOR SERVICE Fresh pasta does n o t hold as w e ll as dried pasta, and since it cooks rapidly, it is usually fe a s ib le to cook it fre s h to o rd e r durin g service. Because it take s longer to cook, dried pasta is som e tim es cooked ahead o f tim e and held fo r service. Rapidly cool and s to re the pasta, if a p p ro p ria te or necessary, and reheat servings or batches as needed a t service. If pasta is prepa red in advance and held, it should be s lig h tly undercooked so th a t it w ill not o vercook durin g reheating. To cool the pasta, rinse it th o ro u g h ly w ith cold w a te r and drain it w ell. A lte rn a tiv e ly , spread th e pasta o u t in a th in layer on a she et pan and re frig e ra te . W hen th o ro u g h ly cooled in th is fashion, a sm all am ount o f o il can be used to to ss w ith the pasta w hile s till w arm to pre ven t it fro m s tic k in g tog ether. To reheat the pasta, b ring some salte d w a te r to a boil. There should be enough w a te r to generously cover th e pasta, tho ugh n o t so much as is req uire d f o r cooking. Lower the pasta in to th e w a te r in a ba sket o r by d ro pp ing it in, and le t it sim m er ju s t long enough to heat through, depending upon th e thickn ess o f th e pasta. Remove th e pasta fro m the w a te r and drain it w ell b e fo re fin is h in g it fo r service.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
T3 Fresh Egg Pasta Makes
1
lb
8
oz/6 8 o g
1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour, or as needed Pinch salt 4 eggs 1 to 2 tb s p /1 5 to 30 mL water, or as needed 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable or olive oil (optional)
Herbed Pasta: Add 2 to 3 oz/57 to 8 5 g chopped herbs w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flou r as needed. Black P epper Pasta: Add 2 ts p /4 g cracked black peppercorns to the flour.
P in r+ P 1- } rt> n 1—*•
Red Pepper Pasta: Saute 6 oz/170 g pureed roasted red peppers in an open vessel until reduced and dry. Cool and add to the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flo u r as needed.
0 ) C/3
Tom ato Pasta: Saute 3 o z /8 5 g tom ato puree in an open
1. Com binetheflourandsaltinalargebowl.Makea
wellinthecenter. 2 . Placetheeggs,w ater,andoil,ifusing,inthecenter ofthewell.Withafork,graduallypullthedryingre dientsintotheeggmixture. Stiruntilaloosemass forms.Asyoumixthedough,adjusttheconsistency withadditionalflourorwater.Thedoughshouldbe tackybutminimallymoist. 3.Turnthedoughoutontoaflouredw orksurface andkneaduntilsmoothandelastic,4to5minutes. Gatherandsmooththedoughintoaball,cover,and letthedoughrelaxatroomtemperatureforatleast1 hour. 4 . Rollthepastadoughintothinsheetsbyhandorby usingapasta-rollingmachineandcutintodesired shapes.Thepastaisreadytocooknow,oritmaybe coveredandrefrigeratedforupto2days.
vessel over low heat until reduced and dry. Cool and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flou r as needed. Pum pkin, C arrot, o r B eet Pasta: Saute 6 oz/1 7 0 g pureed cooked pumpkin, carrots, or beets in an open vessel until reduced and dry. Cool and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flo u r as needed.
Basic Boiled Pasta Makes
10
servings
V / 2 g al/5.76 L water l
'/ 2
o z/4 3 g salt, or as needed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dry or fresh pasta Sauce or garnish, as needed (optional) Oil, as needed (optional)
W hole W heat Pasta: S ub stitute whole wheat flo u r fo r half o f the all-purpose flour. Buckw heat Pasta: S ubstitute 3'A oz/92 g buckwheat flou r fo r an equal amount o f the all-purpose flour. Spinach Pasta: Puree 6 oz/170 g spinach leaves, squeeze dry in cheesecloth, and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flo u r as needed. S a ffro n Pasta: Steep 2 to 4 ts p /1 .60 to 3.20 g pulverized saffron threads in 2 tb s p /3 0 mL hot water, cool sufficie ntly, and add w ith the eggs. Adjust the dough w ith additional flo u r as needed. Alternately, fresh pasta can be cooked in salted saffron water. C itru s Pasta: Add 4 ts p /1 2 g f inely grated lemon or orange zest w ith the eggs. S ubstitute 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon or orange juice fo r the water. Adjust the dough w ith additional flo u r as needed. Curried Pasta: Add 2 to 4 tsp/6 to 12 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) to the flour.
1. Bringthewaterandsalttoaboilinalargestockpot. 2 .A ddthepastaandstirwelltoseparatethestrands.
Cookuntiltender,butnottoosoft.(Freshpastamay cookinlessthan3minutes;drypastamaytakeup to8minutesorlonger,dependingonthesizeand shape.) 3. Drainthepastaatonce.Youm ayaddanydesired sauceorgarnishatthispointandserve. 4 . Ifthepastaistobeheld,plungeitintoanicew ater bathorrinsethoroughlywithcoldwatertostop thecooking.Drainthepastaimmediatelyandtoss withasmallamountofoiltopreventitfromstick ingtogether.Alternatively,drainthepasta,tosswith asmallamountofoil,spreadinasinglelayerona parchment-linedsheetpan,andrefrigerate.
C hapter 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
819
O recchiette w ith Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan
Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan Makes
10
p cn C ~K
theparsley,basil,oregano,chives,andbroccolirabe. Addthepastaand3oz/85goftheParmesan.Tossto mix. 5. Garnishwiththerem aining2oz/57gParmesanand serveimmediately.
rD n
id in
servings
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg broccoli rabe 4 f 1o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil
Pasta alia Carbonara Makes
10
servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Italian sausage, casing removed
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g minced pancetta
12 o z/3 4 0 g minced onion
2 lb /9 0 7 g spaghetti
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295)
6 eggs, beaten
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg orecchiette pasta
2 tb s p /1 2 g cracked black peppercorns
2 garlic cloves, sliced
6 o z/1 7 0 g grated Pecorino Romano, or as needed
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g red pepper flakes
Chopped parsley, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 2 6 3) or water 2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley 2 o z/5 7 g basil chiffonade 2 o z/5 7 g chopped oregano 2 o z/5 7 g minced chives 5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan
1. Cleanthebroccolirabebycuttingoffi in/3cmfrom
thebottomofeachstem.Blanchthebroccolirabein boilingsaltedwaterinalargestockpotuntil90per centcooked,about4minutes. Removeandshockin icewater. Drainwellandhold. 2 . Heat2floz/6om Loftheoilinalargesautepan overmediumheat.Addthesausage,andcookuntil nearlycookedthrough,crumblingthesausagewith awhisk.Addtheonionsandcookuntiltender,about 4minutes.Addthetomatosauce. Letthemixture cookuntilitresemblesaBolognese-stylesauce, about5minutes.Removefromthepanandreserve. 3. Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboilandcook thepastauntilaldente,about6minutes. Remove fromthewateranddrain. 4 .W hilethepastaiscooking,heatalargesautepan overmediumheatwiththeremainingoil.Addthe garlic,redpepperflakes,stock,andreservedsausage mixture.Cookfor1minute,stirringtocombine.Add
1. Renderthepancettainalargesautepanoraron
deauoverlowheatuntilgoldenbrown,7to10min utes,stirringoccasionally.Reservetheporkandfat inthepanandkeepwarm. 2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.A dd thespaghettiandstirafewtimestoseparatethe strands.Cookthespaghettiuntilitistendertothe bitebutstillretainssometexture. 3. Drainthespaghettiinacolander(seeN ote). 4 . Returnthepanwiththepancettatom ediumheat. Tossthepastawiththeporkandrenderedfat,mak ingsurethepastaisveryhotandscrapingthefond offthebottomofthepan. 5. Rem ovethepanfromtheheat.Addtheeggsandtoss untiltheeggsarejustcooked.Addthepeppercorns andcheeseandtoss. 6. GarnishwithchoppedparsleyandadditionalPecori no,ifdesired.Serveimmediately. NOTE: If the spaghetti is prepared in advance, rinse it with cold water, drain well, and rub a small amount o f oil through the strands. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Reheat the pasta in boiling salted water and drain well before continuing.
ch a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
821
Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (Jap Choe) Makes 10 servings
Pad Thai Makes 10 servings 3 lb /1.36 g rice noodles, 'A in /6 mm thick 2 tb s p /1 4 g dried shrimp
20 dried shiitake mushrooms
2 fl o z/6 0 mLThai chili paste (nahm
2 o z/5 7 g dried wood ear mushrooms
prik paw), plus more as needed
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg sweet-potato noodles
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL fish sauce, plus more as needed
6 green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce
l 3/ ) o z/5 0 g palm sugar, plus more as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sesame oil
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
1 o z/2 8g su g a r
l ' A o z/3 5 g chopped garlic
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil
1 leek with light green part, cut into julienne
12 o z/3 4 0 g onion, thinly sliced with the grain
2 lb /9 0 7 g extra-firm bean curd, pressed and cut into strips V* in /6 mm thick
l 3/t o z /5 0 g minced garlic 8 o z/2 2 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g green cabbage chiffonade 12 o z/3 4 0 g carrot, cut into julienne Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 eggs, beaten lightly, cooked to make an omelet Vs in /3 mm thick, cut into julienne
6 eggs, beaten slightly 4 green onions, shaved into l-in /3 -c m strips 1 lb /4 5 4 g bean sprouts 2 3A o z/7 8 g roughly chopped cilantro 10 lime wedges 5 o z/1 4 2 g peanuts, toasted, coarsely chopped
1 . Soakthericenoodlesinw armwaterfor30minutes
anddrainwell. Soakthedriedshrimpfor30minutes incoolwater. Drainandfinelychop. separatelyincoolwaterovernight. Drainand reservetherehydrationwater. 2 .W hisktogetherthechilipaste,fishsauce,vinegar, andsugar. 2 .Cutofftheentirestemoftheshiitakes.Cutthecaps 3. Heattheoilinaw okovermedium-highheat.Add intostripsM sin/3mmwide.Trimoffthehardnod ulesandcutthewoodearmushroomsintostrips theshrimp,garlic,leek,andbeancurd.Stir-fryuntil theleekbrightensincolorandsoftensslightly.The Vsin/3m mwide. garlicshouldbegintoturngolden,butnotbrown. 3.Pourboilingw ateroverthenoodlestocoverbyatleast 4 .A ddthenoodlesandcoatwiththeoil. Stir-fryfor30 2in/5cm-Soakuntilrehydratedandelastic,8to10 minutes.Drain,rinsewithcoolwater,andreserve. seconds.Pushthenoodlestotheupperedgeofone sideofthewok.Addadrizzleofoiltothespacecre 4 .W hisktogetherthegreenonions,soysauce,sesame a tedinthewok,thenaddthebeateneggsandspread oil,andsugar. w ithaspatulatobegincooking.Allowtheeggsto 5.H eattheoilinawokandstir-frytheonionsand c o okfor10secondsbeforebeginningtostir-frythe garlicuntilaromatic.Addthemushrooms,redpep noodle/eggmixtureagain. per,cabbage,andcarrots,andstir-fryuntiltheveg 5. Stirinthefishsaucem ixtureandthegreenonions. etablesarealmostcookedthrough. S tir -fr y u n til th e n o o d le saresoft,addingwateras 6. Addthenoodlesandstir-fryuntilheatedthrough. necessarytofacilitatetherehydrationofthenoodles. 7.Stirinthesoysaucem ixture. Seasonwithsaltand Foldinthesproutsandcilantro.Adjustseasoning pepper. Ifthemixtureappearsdry,moistenwiththe 6. w ithchilipaste,fishsauce,andsugar,asneeded. reservedshiitakeliquid. Garnishwithlimewedgesandpeanutsandserve 8. Garnishwiththeomeletjulienneandserveimme immediately. diately. 1.Rehydratetheshiitakesandw oodearmushrooms
822
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Pad Thai
Tempeh Cashew Noodles
Tempeh Cashew Noodles Makes10portions
Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana Makes10servings 10 o z/2 8 4 g dried lasagna noodles
6 garlic cloves, minced
10 o z/2 8 4 g Italian sweet sausage
2 fl o z/6 0 mL soy sauce
1 4 o z /3 9 7 g ric o tta
3 tb s p /4 5 mL rice wine vinegar
12 o z/3 4 0 g grated Parmesan
2 ts p /9 g brown sugar
3 eggs
1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil
3/ t o z/21 g chopped parsley
1 tb sp /1 6 g chili paste
Salt, as needed
10 o z /2 8 4 g udon noodles
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
1 lb /4 5 4 g tempeh, cut into small dice
1 q t/9 6 0 mL Bolognese M eat Sauce (page 296)
1 onion, cut into small dice
1 tb s p /1 5 mL olive oil
1 red pepper, cut into small dice
10 o z /2 8 4 g mozzarella, thinly sliced or shredded
8 o z/2 2 7 g green beans, cut in half
P i- i 0 ) o
3A cup/89 g cashews, toasted
1 large zucchini, thinly sliced
P in r+
(*D GO
1. Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboil.Addthe
noodlesandstirwelltoseparate.Cookuntiltender butnotoverlysoft,about8minutes.Drainthenoo dlesatonceandrinsewithverycoldwater.Drain Chopped cilantro, as needed againandreserve. Chopped toasted cashews, as needed 2 . Cookthesausageonasheetpanina350°F/i76°C oven,about15minutes. Removethecasingfromthe 1. Com binethecashews,two-thirdsoftheminced sausage,ifdesired,andslicethinly.Reserve. garlic,thesoysauce,vinegar,sugar,sesameoil,and chilipasteinafoodprocessororblenderandprocess 3.Tomakethecheesefilling,combinethericotta, 4oz/113goftheParmesan,theeggs,andparsley. untilsmooth.Setaside. Seasonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg,ifusing.Mix 2 . Cookthenoodlesinboilingsaltedw ateruntil well. tender,7to9minutes. Drain. 3. H eattheoilinalargesautepanorwokovermedium 4 . Spreadasmallamountofthemeatsauceonthebot tomofanoiledhalfhotelpan. heat. Stir-frythetempeh,onions,andpeppersuntil 5. Layinsom eofthenoodles,overlappingthemno theonionsaretranslucent,4to5minutes. morethanV4in/6mm.Donotallowthenoodlesto 4 .A ddthezucchiniandgreenbeansandstir-fryuntil foldupthesidesofthepan. tender,3to5minutesmore.Addtheremaining 6. Spreadthecheesefillingabout%in/6mmthick, garlicandstir-fryuntilfragrant,about1minute. thenaddalayereachofsausage,sauce,mozzarella, 5.A ddthenoodlesandtosstocombine.Addtheca andasprinkleoftheremainingParmesan.Continue shewsauceandtosstocoat. Heatthrough,about5 layeringtheingredientsinthismanner,reserving minutes. aportionofsauceandParmesanforthetop.Finish 6. Serveimmediately,garnishedwithcilantroand w ithalayerofnoodles. cashews. 7. Coverwiththereservedsauceandtopw iththere mainingParmesan. GARNISH
continued
c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
825
8. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenfor15minutes. Reduce theheatto325°F/i63°Candbakefor45minutes more.Ifthetopbrownstoofast,coverthepanlight lywithgreasedaluminumfoil. 9 .Allowthelasagnatorestfor30to45m inutesbefore cuttingintoservings.
Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno)
NOTE: Lasagna can be made w ith raw noodles as well.
Makes 10 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g Spinach Pasta (page 819) V A q t/1 .2 0 L Bolognese M eat Sauce (page 296), cold
Couscous
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Bechamel Sauce (page 295), cold
Makes 10 servings
4 o z /1 1 3 g finely grated Parmesan 2 o z/5 7 g butter
20 to 24 f I o z/6 00 to 7 2 0 mL cold water BO fl o z/9 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295) 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt 1 lb /4 5 4 g couscous 3 o z/8 5 g butter, melted
V2tsp /1 g ground turmeric Ground black pepper, as needed
1. Com bine16floz/480mLofthewaterwithhalfof
thesalt. Soakthecouscousinthesaltedwaterfor1 hour. 2 . Drainthecouscousinacolanderlinedwithcheese clothorthetopofacouscoussieresetoverapotof simmeringwaterorstew.Coverthepotandletthe couscoussteamfor10minutes. 3. Em ptythecouscousintoahotelpanandstirtosepa ratethegrains.Add2floz/6omLofthewaterand mixittogetherbyhand.Letitrestfor15minutes. 4 . Repeatsteps2and3tw omoretimes. 5. Stirinthebutterandturm eric. Seasonwithsaltand pepper. Serveimmediately.
826
1. RollthepastaViein/1.50m mthickbyhandorbyus
ingapasta-rollingmachine. Cutthesheetsofpasta into5byn-in/13by28-cmrectangles. 2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboil.Addthe pasta,returnthewatertoaboil,andcookthepasta for10seconds. Drainthepastaanddropitintocold water. Letthepastacoolfor2minutes,drain,and placeonpapertowelstodry. 3. Spreadasm allamountofthemeatsauceonthebot tomofabutteredhalfhotelpan. 4 . Layintherectanglesofpasta,overlappingbyno morethan%in/6mm.Donotallowthepastatofold upthesidesofthepan. 5. Spreadasm allamountofbechamelonthepastaand •sprinklewithsomeofthecheese. 6. Repeatthisprocessuntilthereare5layersofpasta, alternatingbetweencoatingthelayerswiththemeat sauceandbechamel.Topthelastlayerwithbecha melandgratedcheese,anddotwithbutter. 7. Bakeonthetoprackina45O 0F/232°Covenuntil goldenbrown,20to25minutes. 8. Allowthelasagnatorest10minutesbeforecutting intoservings3by4in/8by10cm.Serveeachpor tionwith3floz/90mLofthetomatosauce.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Classic Bolognese Lasagna w ith Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno)
p
Asparagus and White Bean hasagna Makes
10
servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g Fresh Egg Pasta (page 819) 1 lb /4 5 4 g white beans, cooked and drained
in withsomeofthewhitebeanpuree. Placeanother C + layerofpastaontop,addasecondlayerofbean P puree,andtopwithonemoresheetofpasta.Adda ^ spoonfuloftheasparagusmixturetothefinallayer o> ofpasta. t 7. Garnishthelasagnaswithadrizzleofoliveoiland 13 gratedParmesanandserveimmediately. rt> in
3 whole garlic cloves 1 tb sp /3 g chopped rosemary 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil, plus as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g minced shallot 3 garlic cloves, minced 12 o z/3 4 0 g baby spinach 2 f I o z/6 0 mL Madeira 2 lb /9 0 7 g asparagus, blanched and cut into l-in /3 -c m pieces 1 lb /4 5 4 g shelled green peas 2 tb sp /6 g chopped sage GARNISH
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed Grated Parmesan, as needed
1. Rolloutthepastadoughintothinsheetsbyhandor
byusingapasta-rollingmachine. Cutthesheetsinto 12largesquares, andcoverwithplasticwrapuntil needed. 2 .Com binethebeans,wholegarlicclove,rosemary, andtheoliveoilinafoodprocessororblenderand processuntilsmooth.Seasonwithsaltandpepper. Setaside. 3. Inalargesautepan,heat2tbsp/30m Loliveoilover mediumheat.Addtheshallots,mincedgarlic,and spinachandsauteuntiltheshallotsaretranslucent andthespinachiswilted,2to3minutes. 4 . DeglazethepanwiththeM adeira.Lettheliquid reducecompletely.Addtheasparagusandpeasand tosstocombineandheatthrough,about1minute. Stirinthesage.Keepwarmoverlowheat. 5. Cookthepastasheetsinsaltedboilingw ateruntil tender, 6to8minutes. Drain. 6. Placeonesheetofpastaonaheatedplateandtop c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
829
Ravioli Bercy Makes10servings RAVIOLI
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter 2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg leeks, thinly sliced 1 3 o z /3 6 9 g ric o tta 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley 2 tb sp /6 g chopped chives 2 tb sp /6 g chopped chervil 2 tb sp /6 g chopped tarragon Salt, as needed 2 lb /9 0 7 g Fresh Egg Pasta (page 819) MUSHROOM BERCY SAUCE V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter 4 o z/1 1 3 g chanterelle mushrooms 4 o z/1 1 3 g oyster mushrooms 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g white button mushrooms 4V2 o z/1 2 8 g shallots, finely chopped V i o z/1 4 g garlic paste
5.Assem bletheraviolibyplacingabout2tbsp/30mL
fillingonhalfthecutpasta.Brushtheedgeslightly withwater,thentopwithanotherpieceofpasta. Pressfirmlytoseal. 6. Blanchtheravioliinsimmeringsaltedwaterfor1 minute,thenshockinanicewaterbath.Storeona sheetpan,covered,andrefrigerated,untilneeded forservice. 7.Tom akethesauce,heatthebutterinalargesaute panovermediumheat.Addthemushroomsand sauteuntiltender,4to5minutes.Addtheshallots andgarlicandsauteuntilfragrant,about2min utesmore. 8. Addthewineandbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntil thesauceisreducedandslightlythickened.Stirin theparsley. 9 .A tservice,finishcookingtheravioliinsimmering saltedwateruntilaldente,3to4minutes. Drain well. 1 0 .Ladle2floz/6om LofthemushroomBercyonto aplate,andtopwitharaviolo.Topwithbechamel andmicroarugula.Seasonthedishwithsaltand pepperandserve.
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL white wine 2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Bechamel Sauce (page 295), hot V 2 o z/1 4 g micro arugula Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1.H eatthebutterovermediumheat.Addtheleeks
andsauteuntiltender,3to4minutes.Transferthe leekstoamediumbowlandcoolcompletely. 2 .Stirthericotta,parsley,chives, chervil, andtarra gonintotheleeks. Setaside. 3.Rollthepastadoughintostrips4in/10cmw ide usingapasta-rollingmachine.W orkgraduallyuntil thesheetsreachano.2thickness.Rolltwiceon thefinalsetting. 4 .Usea4-in/io-cmroundcuttertocutout20pieces fromthesheets.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
id p
Gnocchi di Semolina Gratinati Makes10servings
Gnocchi di Ricotta
m r t
Makes10servings
P
1 lb 6 o z /6 2 4 g ricotta
i- 1 0 )
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour, sifted
n t—*•
50 fl o z/1 .5 0 L milk 3 eggs lt b s p /lO g s a lt 3 fl o z /9 0 mL olive oil 8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-grain semolina
fD
in
r /4 ts p /4 g s a lt
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter 16 fl o z/6 8 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263), hot 2 egg yolks, beaten l'/2 o z /4 3 g butter 4 o z /1 1 3 g grated Parmesan 8 o z/2 2 7 g grated Parmesan
1. Bringthem ilktoaboilinalarge,heavy-bottomed
potovermedium-highheatandseasonwithsalt. 2 .Turntheheatdow ntomedium-low.Pourthesemo linaintothemilkinathinstream,whiskingcon stantlyuntilithasallbeenadded.Simmer,stirring often,untilthesemolinaiscooked,20to30min utes.Thesemolinashouldnothaveanoverlygritty texture. 3. Rem ovethepotfromtheheatandblendin3oz/85 gofthebutter,theeggyolks,and3oz/85g°fthe cheese. 4 . Shapethegnocchim ixtureintoquenelles,pipe itintolongtubes,orspreaditonasheetpantoa thicknessofVzin/icm.Coolcompletely,andcutas desired. 5. Cookthegnocchiinaliberalam ountofrapidlyboil ingsaltedwateruntiltheyfloattothesurface,then cookfor2to3minutesmore.Drainwell. 6. Toservethegnocchi,transferthemtoaliberallybut teredbakingdish.Brushordrizzlewiththeremain ingbutterandtopwiththeremainingcheese. Bake ina400°F/204°Covenfor5to6minutesorbrown underabroilerorsalamander. Serveimmediatelyon heatedplates.
V2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper
1. Placethericotta, flour,eggs,oil, andsaltinafood
processor. Processuntiltheingredientscometogeth ertoformasmoothdough,about1minute.Transfer thedoughtoabowl. 2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedw atertoaboiloverhigh heat.Usingtwospoons,shapethedoughintooval quenelles,droppingthemonebyoneintotheboil ingwater.Whenallthedoughhasbeenused,return thewatertoaboilfor1minute.Transferthegnocchi carefullytoabowlwithaslottedspoon. 3. H eatthestock.Heatthebutterinamediumsaute panovermediumheat;addthegnocchiandthehot stock.Heatthrough,1to2minutes. 4 . Transferthegnocchiwithaslottedspoontoheated bowlsforserving.Garnishwiththecheeseandpep per. Serveimmediately. NOTE: Ricotta gnocchi are very delicate and can break easily, so take care when removing them from the water and when transferring them to the serving bowls.
Chapter 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
831
Gnocchi Piedmontese Makes10servings 3 lb /1.36 kg russet potatoes 3 o z/8 5 g butter 3 eggs Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Grated nutmeg, as needed (optional) 1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour, or as needed 3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan 1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
1. Scrub,peel, andcutthepotatoesintolargepieces.
Boilorsteamthemuntiltenderenoughtomasheas ily.Drainanddrythemoverlowheatoronasheet panina300°F/i49°Covenuntilnomoresteamrises fromthem,10to15minutes.Pureethehotpotatoes throughafoodmillorpotatoricerintoaheated bowl.
Shaping gnocchi using a fo rk
2 .A dd1oz/28gofthebutter,theeggs,salt,pepper,
andnutmeg,ifusing.Mixwell. Incorporateenough oftheflourtomakeastiffdough. 3. Rollthedoughintocylindersabout1in/3cmin diameterandcutintopiecesabout1in/2.5cmlong. Shapethegnocchiwithagnocchiboardorrolleach oneoverthetinesofafork,pressingandrollingthe doughwithyourthumb. 4 . Cookthegnocchiinsim meringsaltedwateruntil theyrisetothesurface,2to3minutes. Liftthegnoc chifromthewaterwithaslottedspoonordrainwell inacolander. 5. H eattheremainingbutterinalargesautepanover medium-highheat,addthegnocchi,andtossuntil veryhotandcoatedwithbutter.Addthecheeseand parsley.Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper. Serve immediatelyonheatedplates.
Shaping gnocchi using a gnocchi board
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
Spatzle
2 . Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoarollingboil.
W orkthedoughthroughaspatzlemakerintothe simmeringwater.Whenthespatzlecometothetop ofthepot,about2to3minutes,removethemwitha spider.Thespatzlearereadytofinishnow,ormaybe cooledinanicewaterbath,drainedwell,andrefrig eratedforlaterservice. 3. H eatthebutterinalargesautepanovermediumhighheat.Addthespatzleandsauteuntilveryhot. Adjustseasoningwithsaltandpepper,garnishwith morefinesherbes(ifusing),andserveimmediately.
Makes10servings 6 eggs 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL milk 8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL water Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed 1 o z/2 8 g Fines Herbes (page 369), or as needed (optional)
NOTE: Although browning the spatzle is not traditional, 1 lb /4 5 4 g all-purpose flour
some cooks prefer to allow them extra tim e in the pan to
4 o z /1 1 3 g butter
become brown and slightly crisp.
1. Com binetheeggs,milk,andwater. Seasonwithsalt,
pepper,andnutmeg.Addthefinesherbes,ifusing. W orkintheflourbyhandorwithawoodenspoon andbeatuntilsmooth.Allowthedoughtorestforl hour.
The spatzle dough should be thick but
Move the cup slowly back and fo rth
s till be able to flo w freely.
across the openings to produce the
Heat the spatzle thoroughly,
spatzle. Be sure th a t the w a te r is at a rolling boil when the spatzle is dropped in.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
P
Bread Dumplings Makes10servings
Biscuit Dumplings Makes10servings
c/a r+
P t-i
1 lb /4 5 4 g white bread or rolls with crust, cut into small dice
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour 2 ts p /6 g baking powder
2 o z/5 7 g butter 1 ts p /3 g salt
CD n
id
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk
XSI
4 o z /1 13 g all-purpose flour 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley (optional) 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL milk, or as needed
About
2 V i
q t/2 .4 0 L stock, broth, or soup
5 eggs V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed (optional)
1. Drythebreadina250°F/i2i°Covenuntilcom plete
lydryandcrisp,20to30minutes. 2 .H eatthebutterinamediumsautepanoverme diumheatandaddtheonions. Sauteuntillightly browned,8to10minutes. Removefromthepanand cool. 3. Com binethebread,flour,andsauteedonionsina largebowl.Combinethemilk,eggs,parsley,salt, pepper,andnutmeg,ifusing,inanotherbowl.Pour theliquidmixtureintothedrymixtureandblend togetherlightly.Letstand,covered,for30minutes. Addmoremilkifthemixtureisverydry. 4 . Shapethem ixturebyhandinto2-in/5-cmroundor ovaldumplings. 5. Poachthedum plingsinbarelysimmeringsalted waterfor15minutes.Theyarereadytoservenow,or maybelightlymoistenedandkeptcoveredinahotel panforservice. 6. Toserve,drainthedumplingswithaslottedspoon orskimmer,andserveonheatedplates.
1. Sifttheflour,bakingpow der,andsalttogether.Add
themilkandparsley,ifusing,andmixgently.Donot overmix.Theconsistencyshouldbeslightlysofter thanbiscuitdough. 2 . Bringthestocktoasim merinalargesaucepot. Dropi-oz/28-gportionsofdoughintothestock about1in/3cmapart.W orkinbatches,ifnecessary. Coverthepotandcookthedumplingsuntilthey haveexpandedandcookedcompletelythrough, about15minutesperbatch.Returnthecookingliq uidtoafullsimmerbetweenbatches. 3.Thedum plingsarereadytoservenow,ormaybe leftinthecookingliquidtoholdhotforservice.The dumplingscanalsobeservedwithstew.
c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PAST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
835
Hush Puppies
T3 Hush Puppies
Dim Sum
Makes10servings
Makes20servings
2 eggs, beaten
DUMPLING SKINS
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g flour
2 fl o z/6 0 mL rendered bacon fat
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL hot water
r
/2
o z/4 3 g minced onion
12 o z/3 4 0 g white cornmeal 8 o z /1 7 0 g cake flour 2 ts p /6 g baking powder l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt 'A tsp /1 g ground black pepper 'A ts p /0.50 g cayenne 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil or lard, or as needed
1. Com binetheeggs,milk,fat,andonioninasmall
bowl. 2.. Com binethecornmeal,flour,bakingpowder,salt, pepper,andcayenneinanotherbowl.Makeawell inthecenterandaddthewetingredients. Stirgently untiljustcombined. 3. Formthedoughintoroundballs,aboutl in/3cmin diameter. 4 . Heattheoilto350°F/i77°Cinaheavypotordeep fryer.Deepfrythedoughuntilcrispandbrown,2to 3minutes,workinginbatchesifnecessary.Remove fromtheoilwithaspideranddrainbrieflyonpaper towels. Serveimmediately.
FILLING
P cn C "h
p
1-5 rD n h-»-
Cl in
12 o z/3 4 0 g ground pork 8 o z/2 2 7 g shredded Chinese cabbage 2 o z/5 7 g chopped green onions 1 ts p /3 g minced ginger 1 tb s p /1 5 mL soy sauce 1 tb s p /1 5 mL sesame oil 1 egg white Salt, as needed Ground white pepper, as needed
1. Topreparethedum plingskins,mixtheflourand
waterinamediumbowltomakeasmoothdough. Letstandfor30minutes.Dividethedoughinto Vi-oz/14-gportionsandrolleachintoathincircle. 2 . Topreparethefilling,com bineallthefillingingre dientsandmixwellinamediumbowl.Checkthe fillingconsistencyandseasoningbysauteingasmall amountandtastingit. 3. Place1tbsp/15m Loffillingonadumplingskin.Fold inhalfandcrimpandsealtheedgestightly. 4 . Steamthedum plingsinanAsian-stylebamboo steameroracoveredperforatedhotelpanoverboil ingwateruntilcookedthrough,about8minutes. Serveimmediately. P o tsticke rs: Use prepared wonton wrappers instead of preparing the dough, if desired. Fill and seal dumplings as described above. Heat about ]A in /6 mm oil in a large saute pan. Add the dumplings in a single layer and pan fry over medium-high heat until the bottom s are very crisp and brown. Add enough stock, broth, or w ater to come.up to I/2 in/1 cm in the pan. Cover the pan and steam the potstickers fo r 6 to 8 minutes, or until the wrapper is translucent and tender. Serve immediately.
c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
837
Steamed Dumplings (5hao-Mai) Makes
10
1 tb sp /3 g roughly chopped cilantro 20 shao-mai wrappers 10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce (page 841)
servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g ground pork, very cold 2 ts p /6 g minced ginger 2 green onions, thinly sliced 2 ts p /1 0 mL oyster sauce 1 ts p /5 mL light soy sauce 1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil 2 tb sp /1 8 g cornstarch l e gg 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Shaoxing rice wine 1 ts p /3 g s a lt Pinch ground black pepper 4 o z/1 1 3 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled, deveined, chopped into ’/t-in /6 -m m pieces 1 o z/1 4 g water chestnut, cut into brunoise 1 o z/2 8 g carrot, cut into brunoise
1. Placethepork,ginger,greenonions,oystersauce,soy
sauce,oil,cornstarch,egg,wine,salt,andpepperinto achilledfoodprocessorfittedwiththesteelblade. Pulsethemixtureuntilwellcombined.Themixture willbegintopulltogetherintoonemass.Transfertoa chilledmixingbowl. 2 .A ddtheshrimp,waterchestnuts,carrots,andcilantro. Mixuntilincorporated.Chillthemixtureuntilitis verycold. 3. Usingatablespoon,placeam oundofthefillingmix tureinthecenterofeachwrapper.Gathertheouter edgesofthewrappertoformacylinderwiththefill ingexposedatthetop.W rapyourpointerfingerand thumbaroundthecenter“waist.”Dipyourthumb fromtheoppositehandinwater(topreventsticking) anduseittocompactthefillinginthedumpling. Gentlytaptheentiredumplingonthetabletoensure thatitwillstayuprightinthesteamer.
Line up the circles o f dough and place the fillin g in the cen-
Here, the dumplings are placed on top o f cabbage leaves to
te r o f each circle. Gather the dumpling dough into a cylinder
prevent them from to sticking to the steamer,
around the filling , pinching the excess dough together.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
P
. BringwatertoavigorousboilinanAsiansteamer. Oilthesteamerrackwithsesameoilorlineitwith cabbageorlettuceleavesorparchmentpapertopre ventthedumplingsfromsticking. .Arrangethedumplingsinthesteamer.Coverand steamuntilcookedthroughandfirm,about5minutes.
D.Turnofftheheatandletthedumplingsrestforafew C“f" minutesbeforeremoving.Serveimmediatelywiththe P sauce. NOTE: For smaller passed hors d'oeuvre, use 1 tsp /5 mL fillin g per dumpling.
"
T3 Pan-Fried Dumplings (Guo Tie) Makes10dumplings 4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour 4 o z/1 1 3 g wheat starch l
'/ 2
ts p /5 g butter, very cold, cut into small pieces
5 '/2 fl o z/1 6 5 mL boiling water 6 o z/1 7 0 g ground pork 6 o z/1 7 0 g finely chopped Chinese cabbage 1 thinly sliced green onion 1 ts p /3 g minced ginger 1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce 1 tb sp /1 5 mL sesame oil le g g l
’/2
ts p /4.50 g cornstarch
1 ts p /3 g salt '/ 2
r
tsp /1 g ground white pepper /2
c-
P c/a
J. Placeltbsp/15mLofthefillingoneachcircle ft' ofdoughandfoldasdesired.Lightlypinchthe P areawherethedoughmeets.Transfertoalightly HJ floured,parchment-linedsheetpan. CD c U.Heatalargecast-ironskilletovermedium-high (— 1< heat.Add2tbsp/30mLofthevegetableoiland swirltocoatthesidesofthepan. (*D C/3 7.W hentheoilishot,arrangethedumplingsincon centricrings,startingfromtheoutsideofthepan. 8. Cookuntilthebottomsarecompletelybrowned. Releasethedumplingsfromthepanwithaspatula beforeproceedingtothenextstep. 9 .Slow lyandcarefullyaddthestocktocomeabout halfwayupthesidesofdumplings.Bringtoasim mer,coverthepan,andcookuntilthenoodle casingiscookedandthedumplingsareheated through,1to2minutes. 10 .Rem ovethecoverandcookuntilallthestockhas evaporatedorbeenabsorbed.Addtheremaining oilandcookuntilthebottomsofthedumplings arecrisp.Serveimmediatelywiththesauce.
ts p /7.50 mL dry sherry
’/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar
Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce
2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
Makes34 fl oz/1.02 L
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL rice wine vinegar 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL light soy sauce 8 flo z /2 4 0 m L w a te r
1.Placetheflourandw heatstarchinthebowlofa
foodprocessorfittedwiththesteelblade.Asthe machineisrunning,graduallyaddthecoldbutter. Addthewaterinaslowstream;thedoughshould begintocometogetherasasolidmass. 2 .Runforanadditional10secondstokneadthe dough.Transferthedoughtoaflouredworksur faceandkneaduntilsmooth.W rapinplasticwrap andletitrestforlhouratroomtemperature. 3.Com binethepork,cabbage,greenonion,ginger, soysauce,sesameoil,egg,cornstarch,salt,pepper, sherry,andsugarinalargebowl.Mixwellandad justseasoning. 4 .Dividethedoughinto2pieces.Rollouteachpieceto aVi6-in/i.50-mm thickness.Useafloured3y2-in/ 9-cmroundcuttertocutthedoughinto10pieces. Coverthedoughtopreventitfromdryingout.
5 o z/1 4 2 g minced ginger 4 o z /1 1 3 g s u g a r 2 f I o z/6 0 mL sesame oil
Whiskalltheingredientstogetherinabowluntilthe sugarisdissolved.Thesauceisreadytoservenow, ormayberefrigeratedforlateruse.
c h a p te r 25 » C O O K IN G PA ST A A N D D U M P L I N G S
841
Potato and CheddarFilled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage Makes10servings
FILLING 6 lb /2.72 kg chef's potatoes 7 egg yolks 9 o z/2 5 5 g Cheddar, grated V A o z/5 0 g halved and thinly sliced green onions Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Freshly grated nutmeg, as needed DOUGH 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g semolina flour 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour 9 eggs 1 o z/2 8 g salt 2 fl o z/6 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
6 o z/1 7 0 g clarified butter 12 o z/3 4 0 g whole butter '/ t t s p / l g salt Pinch ground white pepper 1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g onions, caramelized
2 . Stirintheeggyolks,cheese, andgreenonions. Sea
sonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg.Coverandsetthe fillingaside. 3.Tom akethedough,placethereservedpotatowater, flours,eggs,andsaltinanelectricmixerfittedwith adoughhook.Mixatmediumspeeduntilthedough formsasmoothball,3to4minutes. Dividethe doughinto4piecesandkneadeachonaflouredsur faceuntilthedoughisbarelytacky.Covereachwith plasticwrap,andallowittorestfor20minutes. 4 . Rollthedoughusingapastam achinetoaVfa-in/ 1.50-mmthickness.Cutthedoughintocircleswith a21/2-in-/6-cm-diameterbiscuitcutter.Lightlybrush theedgeswitheggwash. 5. Placeapproxim ately1tbsp/15mLoffillingontothe centerofeachdoughcircle. Foldinhalftoforma half-moonandpinchtheedgestoseal. 6. Simmerthepierogiinalargepotofboilingsalted wateruntiltheedgesofthedougharefullycooked, 4to5minutes.Thepierogiarereadytofinishnow, ormaybecooledinanicewaterbath,drained,and refrigeratedforlaterservice. 7. H eattheclarifiedbutterinalargesautepanover mediumheat.Addthepierogiandsauteuntilgolden brownonbothsidesandheatedthrough,about2 minutesperside. Removethepierogifromthepan andkeepwarm. 8. Pourofftheclarifiedbutter,increasetheheatto medium-high,addthewholebutter,andbringitto noisette(goldenbrown),about2minutes.Adda pinchofsaltandwhitepepper,anddrizzleoverthe pierogi. 9 .Garnishwiththecaram elizedonions,sage,andsour creamandserveimmediately.
2 tb sp /6 g sage chiffonade 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL sour cream
1. Scrub,peel, andcutthepotatoesintolargepieces.
Boiltheminsaltedwateruntiltenderenoughto masheasily.Drain,reservingandchilling8floz/240 mL o fthecookingliquid.Drythepotatoesoverlow heatoronasheetpanina300°F/i49°Covenuntil nomoresteamrisesfromthem.Whilethepotatoes arestillhot,pureethemthroughafoodmillorpo tatoricerintoaheatedbowl.
V E G E T A B L E S , POTATOES, G R A IN S A N D L E G U M E S , A N D PASTA A N D D U M P L I N G S
breakfas
..;»■M l k : - UPU* . . ■
t
' ■\
i
'
C
ji
“■H
_,
:
W
~ 'Jv .i _j #
* •>
* \
-2 /
"
^
f
'.
' ' -V
jfg |
'
»*■'•
~ *4 *
If
M '
]|
m
W
'
' r
■
■/; •;'
" 'i X
7? ! (V
\'M s m
>
.V
>
1*7
md garde manger PART 6
cooking eggs Eggs can be cooked in the shell, poached, fried, scrambled, or prepared as omelets or souffles. Using fresh eggs for cooking is important to ensure the best flavor and quality of the finished dish. The top grade of eggs, AA, indicates that the eggs are fresh. They will have a white that does not spread excessively once the egg is cracked and the yolk should ride high on the white’s surface. Regardless of the recipe or cooking method used, when eggs are overcooked, excessive coagulation of the proteins forces water out and the eggs become dry.
CHAPTER
26
r .dr-»
/W
J- &
7/ ¥
A lth o u g h
th e
te rm
boiled
may
appear
in
th e
nam e, eggs
p rep a re d
in t h e
s h e ll
s h o u ld
A C T U A L L Y BE C O O K E D A T A B A R E S I M M E R F O R B E S T R E S U L T S . EGGS A R E C O O K E D IN T H E S H E L L TO M A K E h a r d
- a n d s o f t - c o o k e d a n d c o d d l e d e g g s . T h e y m a y b e s e r v e d d ir e c t l y in t h e s h e l l o r t h e y
M A Y BE S H E L L E D A N D U S E D TO M A K E A N O T H E R P R E P A R A T I O N S U C H A S D E V I L E D E G G S , OR A S A G A R N I S H F O R S A L A D S OR V E G E T A B L E D I S H E S .
cooking eggs in the shell Check each egg c a re fu lly and discard any w ith cracked shells. Eggs should always be p ro p erly re frig e ra te d u n til you are ready to cook them . S elect a p o t deep enough f o r th e eggs to be subm erged in w a te r. Have on hand a s lo t te d spoon, skim m er, or spide r to rem ove eggs fro m the w a te r once th e y are cooked. Place th e eggs in a p o t w ith enough w a te r to com p le te ly subm erge them (the w a te r level should be a p p ro xim a te ly 2 in /5 cm above th e eggs) and add th e salt. It is com m on to have th e w a te r already a t a sim m er when p re pa ring coddled and so ft-c o o k e d eggs. Hardcooked eggs may be s ta rte d in sim m e ring or cold w ater. In e ith e r case, low er the eggs gen tly in to th e p o t so the y w o n't crack, and re tu rn (or bring) th e w a te r to a simmer. Do n o t allow th e w a te r to bo il rapidly. W a te r th a t is a t o r close to a sim m e r w ill allow the eggs to cook evenly, w ith o u t tou ghe ning the w hites. S ta rt tim in g th e cooking only once th e w a te r reaches a sim m er and cook to the desired doneness. For exam ple, a 3 -m in u te egg cooks f o r 3 m inutes fro m th e tim e the w a te r re tu rn s to a sim m er a fte r th e egg has been added to th e w ater. If th e tim in g is s ta rte d when th e w a te r is cold, th e egg w ill n o t be p ro p e rly cooked. S im m er hard-cooked eggs fo r 10 to 12 m inutes. H ard-cooked eggs are ea sie st to peel w hile th e y are s till warm . Place them under cold running w a te r u n til th e y are cool enough to handle. G en tly press down and ro ll th e egg over a c o u n te rto p to crack th e shell b e fo re peeling. Peel th e shell and m em brane away w ith your fing ers. The yolks o f p ro p e rly cooked s o ft-b o ile d eggs are w arm b u t s till runny, w hile tho se o f m edium -cooked eggs are p a rtia lly coagulated. P rop erly hard-cooked eggs are co m p le te ly and evenly coagulated, w ith firm b u t te n d e r (not tough) w h ite s and no u n sig htly green ring surro un din g th e yolk. The green ring is th e re s u lt o f a chem ical rea ction betw een the iron and s u lfu r n a turally pre sen t in eggs, fo rm in g green iron su lfid e . H eat speeds up th is rea ction . The b e st way to pre ven t th e green rin g fro m fo rm in g is to w a tch the cooking tim e clo sely and not allow the eggs to cook longer than necessary. Quick cooling also helps keep th e ring fro m form in g.
848
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
cooking eggs in the shell
B
basic formula
Eggs Cooked in the Shell
(10 portions)
20 eggs (2 per portion)
Plenty of simmering water to cook coddled, soft-, medium-, or hard-cooked eggs; plenty of cold water to cover eggs if following the alternative hard-cooked method ltb s p /lO g s a lt
method at-a-glance 1. Submerge eggs in simmering water. 2. Return w ater to a simmer. 3. Cook to desired doneness. The proper doneness o f a hardboiled egg
ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
849
Prepare poached
eggs
by
s l ip p in g
s h e l le d
eggs
in t o
barely
s im m e r in g
w ater
a nd
g en tly
C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E EG G H O L D S I T S S H A P E . T H E F R E S H E R T H E EG G , T H E M O R E C E N T E R E D T H E Y O L K , T H E L E S S L I K E L Y T H E W H I T E I S TO S P R E A D A N D B E C O M E R A G G E D . T H E S E T E N D E R A N D D E L I C A T E L Y S E T E G G S FO RM T H E BA SIS OF M A N Y D IS H E S . S O M E F A M IL IA R E X A M P L E S ARE EGGS B E N E D IC T OR F L O R E N T IN E , AN D PO ACHED EGGS U S ED AS A TO P P IN G FOR CO R N ED BEEF HA SH .
poaching eggs Poached eggs can be p repared in advance and held s a fe ly throu gh ou t a typ ic a l service period to m ake th e w orkload ea s ie r during service. S lig htly underpoach th e eggs, shock them in ice w a te r to a rre s t the cooking process, trim th em , and hold th e m in cold w ater. A t the tim e o f service, re h e a t th e eggs in sim m ering w ater. Eggs are m o st o fte n poached in w ater, though o th e r liquids such as wine, stock, or cream can also be used. Add vinegar and s a lt to the w a te r to encourage the egg p ro tein to s e t fas te r. O therw ise, th e egg w h ite s can spread to o much b e fo re th e y coagulate. Choose a n onreactive p ot th a t is deep enough fo r the eggs to rem ain com p le te ly sub m erged. The size o f th e pan depends on th e size o f the batch. Have cups to hold the raw eggs, as w ell as a s lo tte d spoon, skim m er, or spider fo r re trie v in g th e eggs fro m th e w ater, and pap er tow els to b lo t the eggs dry, a paring knife fo r trim m in g th e eggs, and holding and serving pieces. An in s ta n t-re a d th e rm o m e te r helps to accurately m o n ito r th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e w ater.
850
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
D
o p
basic formula
Poached Eggs (10 portions)
20 very fresh eggs (2 per portion), chilled in individual
o
t r i—*• 5 to 6 in/13 to 15 cm simmering water (165° to 180°F/74° to 82°C)
Vi oz/14 g salt p e ri gal/3.84 L water
2
QTQ
n>
8 fl oz/240 mL vinegar per
QTQ
1 gal/3.84 L water
CTQ
cups until ready to poach
C/3
method at-a-glance 1. Add cracked eggs to simmering poaching liquid. 2 . Cook to desired doneness. 3. Remove eggs with slotted
spoon. 4 . Blot excess liquid and trim
edges.
The shape o f the finished poached egg can be af fected by its handling prior to and during the cooking process. For a desirable shape, handle the eggs carefully when removing them from the shell, when dropping them into the water, and when removing the finished poached eggs. This will lessen the chances for the yolk to break prior to the cooking process, as well as prevent undesirable or "messy" finished products.
5 . To reserve, plunge in ice
water and drain.
c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
851
1. gently add the eggs
one a t a tim e to
th e sim m ering (1 8 0 ° F /8 2 ° C ) poaching liquid. For the m ost a ttra c tiv e shape, like a te a rd ro p , be sure th a t th e w a te r is d eep enough. Fill a pan w ith w a te r to a d epth o f 5 to 6 in /1 3 to 1 5 cm and season it w ith ju s t enough vinegar and s a lt to p re v e n t th e egg w h ite s fro m spreading. The v in e gar and s a lt should be ju s t b arely p e rc e p tib le , not enough th a t th e poached egg ta s te s stron g ly o f vinegar or salt. G enerally, 8 fl o z /2 4 0 mL vineg ar and 1 tb s p /1 0 g s a lt fo r each 1 g a l/3 .8 4 L o f w a te r are s u ffic ie n t. To reduce th e chance o f b reakin g an egg in th e poach ing liquid, b re a k th e eggs into cups. Discard any eggs th a t have blood spots on th e yolks. Pour th e egg fro m th e cup into th e poaching liquid. Once added, th e egg w ill drop to th e b o tto m o f the p ot, then f lo a t to th e to p . The w h ite s w ill s e t around the yolk to c re a te a te a rd ro p shape. The m ore eggs added to th e w a te r a t once, th e m ore th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e w a te r w ill drop and th e m ore tim e it w ill ta k e to p ro p e rly poach th e egg. W o rking in sm a lle r batches is actu ally m ore e f fic ie n t. It g en e ra lly ta k e s 3 to 4 m inutes to poach an egg pro perly, depending on m a rk e t size.
2. use a slotted spoon,
skim m er, or
s pid er to g e n tly lif t th e egg fro m th e w a te r. Blot the egg on p ap er to w e ls to rem ove as much w a te r as possible. A p ro p e rly poached egg should have a fu lly coagulated egg w h ite and a w arm c e n te r th a t is only p a rtia lly set (slightly thickened b ut s till flow ing ), and should be te n d e r w ith a c om pact oval shape. If th e w h ite s a p p e a r ragged, trim th e m w ith a paring kn ife to give a n eat appearance. The poached egg is re a d y to serve now.
852
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
T3 O
P
3. slightly undercook eggs (2 V2to3
n
m inutes) th a t w ill be chilled and held fo r la te r service. L ift
i—»•
th e eggs fro m th e poaching liquid and subm erge th e m in
P
ice w a te r until w ell chilled. Trim any irre g u la r shaping o f
Orq
th e w h ite around th e edges and hold in cold w a te r until service. Drain th e eggs and hold th e m in a p e rfo ra te d pan
a>
Qrq
until tim e to re h e a t. To re h e a t th e egg, low er it into s im
Orq
m ering w a te r fo r 3 0 to 6 0 seconds to finish cooking and
c/a
p ro p e rly re h e a t it. S erve th e egg w hile s till very hot.
ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
853
F r ie d e g g s c a l l f o r p e r f e c t l y f r e s h e g g s , t h e c o r r e c t h e a t l e v e l , a n a p p r o p r ia t e a m o u n t O F C O O K I N G FAT, A N D A D E F T H A N D . F R I E D E G G S A m E R I C A N ' S T Y L E M A Y BE S E R V E D S U N N Y S I D E U P ( n o t t u r n e d ) O R O V E R ( T U R N E D O N C e ). F R I E D E G G S M A Y BE B A S T E D W I T H F A T A S T H E Y F R Y . D l S H E S L IK E H U E V O S R A N C H E R O S , FO R E X A M P L E , F E A T U R E F R IE D EG GS AS PART OF A H E A R T Y D IS H OF EGGS, T O R T IL L A S , A N D B E A N S . T H E F R E N C H P R E F E R S H IR R E D EG GS ( S U R LE P L A T ), W H I C H A R E C O O K E D IN T H E O VEN W IT H V A R IO U S G A R N IS H E S .
ying eggs Using very fre s h eggs is th e only w ay to ensure a rich fla v o r and good appearance in the finished dish. W hen very fre s h eggs are broken onto a p late, th e yolk sits high on th e w hite near the w hite's center. The w h ite is com pact and th ic k and it holds th e yolk in place. When th e egg is frie d , th e w h ite holds to g e th e r in a n eat shape and th e yolk is m ore likely to stay in ta c t. As eggs age, th e w h ite and yolk w eaken and thin. To p re p a re eggs fo r frying, b reak th e m into clean cups. Any eggs w ith broken yolks can be reserved fo r a n o th e r use. R e frig e ra te th e shelled eggs. (This m ay be done up to 1 hour in advance.) Use oils, whole or c la rifie d b u tte r, or ren dered bacon f a t fo r frying, even if using a non stick surface. These cooking fa ts not only lub ricate th e pan; th e y can also add th e ir own d is tin c t flavor. Season eggs w ith salt and p ep p e r as th e y cook fo r th e b es t flavor. Fry eggs e ith e r in a s aute pan or on a griddle. The b est pan m a te ria ls fo r fry in g eggs are w ell-season ed black s teel or nonstick surfaces. A h e a tp ro o f or m e ta l spatula or a p a le tte knife is also needed fo r flip p in g and m oving th e eggs. Place a fry in g pan over m edium heat. Add th e f a t to th e pan and continue to h eat un til the fa t is hot. The ideal te m p e ra tu re range fo r fry in g an egg is 2 5 5 ° to 2 8 0 ° F /1 2 4 ° to 1 3 8 °C — the sam e range a t which b u tte r sizzles w ith o u t turnin g brown. If using a griddle, adjust its te m p e ra tu re and brush th e surface w ith oil or a no ther cooking fa t. If the heat is to o low, the egg w ill stick; if it is to o high, the edges o f th e w h ite m ay b lis te r and brown b efo re th e re s t o f th e egg is p ro perly cooked. B reak the eggs into cups. Fried eggs should have in ta c t yolks, unless th e custom er re quests th a t they be broken. Slide or pour th e egg out o f the cup and into th e pan. Cook th e eggs until done as desired. H ere th e y are sunny side up. Eggs are done once the w hites have coagulated; the yolks may be s o ft and runny or set. For eggs cooked over easy or over hard, flip th e eggs or turn th e m w ith a spatula. You may b aste th e eggs w ith hot f a t to s e t the to p instead o f turnin g them . Or sprinkle a fe w drops o f w a te r on th e egg, cover th e pan, and le t th e w a te r steam th e eggs. P rop erly frie d eggs have shiny, tender, fu lly s e t w hites and a fa irly com pact shape. They are not b lis te re d or browned. Yolks should be p ro p e rly cooked, according to custom er re q u e s t or intend ed use.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Q basic formula Fried Eggs (1 0 portions)
20 very fresh eggs (2 per portion), refrigerated until ready to cook
ONE OFTHE FOLLOWING COOKING MEDIUMS: Whole butter Clarified butter Cooking oils Rendered bacon fat
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Heat fa t to 2 5 5 ° to 280°F /124° to 138°C. 2. Slide cracked eggs into
pan.
ex p ert tips
3. Cook to desired doneness.
T h G t y p e o f f 3 t u s e d will add additional flavor to the finished fried egg. Depending on the desired result, any of the following fats can be used to develop more flavor: WHOLE OR CLARIFIED BUTTER / O LIVE OIL / INFUSED OILS / RENDERED BACON FAT
c h a p te r 26 » C O O KING EGGS
855
S c r a m b l e d e g g s c a n b e m a d e in t w o w a y s : t h e e g g s c a n b e s t i r r e d c o n s t a n t l y o v e r l o w h e a t F O R A S O F T , D E L I C A T E C U R D A N D A C R E A M Y T E X T U R E OR S T I R R E D L E S S F R E Q U E N T L Y A S T H E Y C O O K F O R A L A R G E R C U R D A N D A F I R M T E X T U R E . W H E T H E R P R E P A R E D TO O R D E R O R TO S E R V E O N A B U F F E T L I N E , S C R A M B L E D E G G S M U S T BE S E R V E D H O T, F R E S H , A N D M O I S T .
scrambling eggs Choose eggs th a t are fresh , w ith in ta c t shells. Adding a small am ount o f w a te r or stock (about 2 t s p /1 0 mL p er egg) to th e b ea te n eggs w ill m ake th e m p u ffie r as th e w a te r turns to steam . M ilk or cream may be used to enrich the eggs. Scram bled eggs can be seasoned w ith salt and pepper, a n d /o r fla v o re d or garnished w ith fre s h herbs, cheese, sauteed veg e ta b le s, smoked fish, or tru ffle s . Eggs can be scram bled in a saute pan or on a griddle. Nonstick surfaces make it easy to prepare scram bled eggs w ith a minimum am ount o f added fa t. Black steel pans are appro priate, as long as they are properly maintained and seasoned. Pans used fo r eggs should be reserved fo r th a t use only, if possible. A h ea tp ro o f rubber spatula, wooden spoon, or spatula is needed fo r stirring the eggs as they cook. Blend the eggs ju s t until the yolks and w hites are com bined. Add liquid, if using, and seasonings. Use a fo rk or a whisk to blend everything into a sm ooth, homogeneous m ixture. H e a t th e pan and th e cooking f a t over m edium heat. Pour the eggs into th e pan; they should begin to coagulate alm o st im m e d ia tely . Turn th e h ea t down to tow. Use th e back o f a ta b le fo rk or a wooden spoon to s tir th e eggs as they cook. Keep both th e pan and the fo rk in m otion to produce small, s o ftly s e t curds. The low er th e h ea t and the m ore c on stan t the ag itatio n , th e cre a m ie r th e finished scram bled eggs w ill be. In fa c t, th e y may be p repared by s tirrin g th e m c o n stan tly over a w a te r bath to p revent browning a lto gether. Add garnishes, cheeses, or flav o rin g ing red ients once th e eggs are alm o st com pletely set; fo ld th e s e ing red ients in over low heat, ju s t until inco rp orated . Rem ove th e eggs fro m th e h eat when slightly underdone; they w ill continue to cook slightly fro m th e h ea t they retain. P rop erly p repared scram bled eggs have a m o ist te x tu re , cream y consistency, and d eli cate flavor. M o is tu re w eepin g fro m the eggs indicates th a t they w e re overcooked.
856
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
m n
D
I-S
basic formula
Scrambled Eggs
p
Salt and pepper as needed
(10 portions)
20 to 30 eggs (2 or 3 per portion)
p
1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 m L oil, clarified butter, or rendered fat
QTQ
rt>
Up to 1 tbsp/15 mL water, milk, or cream (optional)
Crq QTQ in
method at-a-glance Whisk eggs and season. 2. Heat fa t over medium heat. 3. Add eggs and reduce heat
to low.
expert tips
4. Cook, stirrin g the eggs
constantly, to the desired doneness.
Depending on the desired result, theadditionof aliquid can affect both the flavor and texture of the finished eggs. Liquids to consider include: W ATER / M IL K / H E A V Y CREA M
Garnishing scrambled eggs
isanotherway to introduce
flavor and texture. Depending on the desired result, any of the following can be added: SPIC E S / FRESH H ERBS / GRATED C HEESE / COOKED BACON, H A M , OR S A U S A G E /V E G E T A B L E S
c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
857
T h e r o l l e d ( F r e n c h - s t y l e ) o m e l e t s t a r t s o u t l ik e s c r a m b l e d e g g s , b u t w h e n THE e g g s s t a r t to
set
s a m e
, they are rolled
m a n n e r
, though
it
o v e r is
. A f o l d e d (A m e r ic a n - s t y l e ) o m e l e t
o fte n
co o k ed
on
a g r id d l e
rather
th a n
is in
prepared a
in
m u c h
the
PAN, a n d i n s t e a d o f
B E I N G R O L L E D , T H E A M E R I C A N O M E L E T IS F O L D E D I N H A L F .
making omelets There are two other styles of omelets, both based upon a beaten mixture of eggs. Flat omelets, known variously as farm er-style omelets, fritta ta s (Italian), or tortillas (Spanish), are a baked version. The finished dish is denser and easier to slice into servings, and can be served at room tem perature. Souffleed or puffy omelets are made from eggs firs t sepa rated into yolks and whites. The beaten whites are folded into the beaten yolks and the dish is prepared by baking the omelet in a hot oven. Choose eggs th at are fresh, with intact shells. As with scrambled eggs, the ability of the egg to hold its shape is irrelevant, but fresh eggs are preferable. Season omelets with salt, pepper, and herbs. Clarified butter is the most common cooking fat, although veg etable oils also work well. Omelets may be filled or garnished with cheese, sauteed vegetables or potatoes, meats, and smoked fish, among other things. These fillings and garnishes are incorporated at the appropriate point to be certain they are fully cooked and hot when the eggs have finished cooking. Grated or crumbled cheeses will melt sufficiently from the heat of the eggs, and are often added just before an omelet is rolled or folded. S tart larger frittata s, as well as souffleed omelets, in a pan heated in the oven with the cooking fa t before adding the eggs. Add garnishes fo r fla t and souffleed omelets at the start of cooking time. For rolled or folded omelets, add fillings such as cheese when the curds are barely set. Rolled and souffleed omelets are made individually in omelet pans, which are basically small saute pans. Omelet pans should either be well seasoned or have a nonstick surface. Treat pans carefully and avoid scratching a nonstick surface with metal. A wooden spoon or heat-resistant rubber spatula is useful to stir the eggs as they cook.
CHEF'S NOTES ON OMELETS Eggs for omelets should be beaten only
an omelet, consider the delicate flavor of
enough to incorporate air or make them
the eggs and select ingredients that will complement and not overwhelm them.
frothy. Consider the size of the pan in relation to the size of the omelet (number of eggs)
858
When selecting ingredients for filling
enough to blend the yolk and white, not
Before you begin preparation, make sure that you have all of your ingredients
you are making. A pan that is too large or
and serving dishes assembled and within
too small will have an ill effect on the end
easy reach, so that you can attend to cook
result of the omelet.
ing the eggs.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Omelet
salt
(1 serving) Pepper
2 or 3 eggs Up to 2 tsp/10 mL water, stock, milk, or cream (optional)
1 cooking fat
to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL
making omelets
Q basic formula
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Blend the eggs, adding any liquid and seasonings. 2. Pour or ladle the egg
m ixture into a heated and greased pan.
ex p ert tips
3. Swirl the pan over the heat,
stirrin g and scraping the eggs simultaneously, until curds begin to form .
can affect both the flavor and texture of the finished omelet. Liquids to con
Add a fillin g , i f desired.
sider include:
5. Cook the om elet until it is
Depending on the desired resuit, theaddition of aliquid
WATER / STOCK / M IL K / H E A V Y CREA M
set.
Garnishing 3n om elet
is another way to introduce flavor and
texture. Depending on the desired result, any of the following can be added: SPIC ES / FRESH HERBS / GRATED C HEESE / BACON, H A M , OR SAUSAGE / VEG ETAB LES
Chapter 26 » C O O KING EGGS
859
1. shell the eggs fo r omelets and blend with a liquid, if using, salt, pepper, and seasonings as close to cooking tim e as possible. For souffleed omelets, separate the eggs into whites and yolks. Blend the yolks with seasonings and any liquid desired, then beat the whites to medium peak and fold them into the yolk mixture. A portion-size omelet pan should be heated over high heat. Add the butter or oil and allow it to heat, as well. The fat should appear lightly hazy but should not be smoking. Some garnish ingredients are added to the pan before the eggs; others are added when the curds are almost completely set, depending on the desired results and recipe specifics. Toward the beginning o f cooking, stir the eggs con stantly with the spatula to encourage even cooking. For individually prepared rolled and folded omelets, keep the eggs in constant motion as the om elet cooks. Cook rolled and folded omelets over brisk heat to assure th at the eggs begin to set almost imm ediately and don't stick to the pan. If using an om elet pan, use one hand to swirl the pan over the heat source and the other to stir the eggs from the bottom and sides of the pan with the back of a fork or a heat-resistant rubber spatula. Use a flexible spatula to turn and stir an om elet cooked on a griddle.
2. gently shake the pan
to evenly
spread the eggs in the pan or use a spatula to spread the eggs fla t fo r the best presentation. Garnish the om elet as desired. Make sure th a t the om elet is of a uniform thick ness or it will cook unevenly.
86o
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
making omelets
3. to make a rolled omelet, usethe spatula to fold over one-third o f the omelet. Use a rubber spatula or a fork to roll the edge of the omelet nearest the handle toward the center. Shake the pan to loosen the omelet, to make it easier to roll onto the plate.
4. hold the plate near the pan and roll the om elet out onto the plate. Roll the om elet out of the pan directly onto a heated plate, completely encasing any filling; make sure the edges are caught neatly underneath the omelet. It may be necessary to shape the om elet with a clean towel. Evaluate the finished omelet. A rolled om elet should be oval in shape and golden-yellow in color, with a creamy, moist interior. A folded om elet is a half-circle shape; the exterior is sometimes allowed to take on a very light gold en color. A fla t om elet should be dense but moist, able to be cut or sliced into servings, yet still hold its shape. A souffleed om elet should be light and foamy, with slight golden color on the upper surface; it starts to lose its vol ume rapidly a fte r coming out o f the oven, however, so be sure to serve immediately.
c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
861
T h e P R EP ARA TIO N , AS S E M B L Y , AN D BA KING OF A S O U F F L E ARE NO T D IF F IC U L T TA SKS ON T H E IR O W N . T h e T R I C K Y P A R T IS T I M I N G . S O U F F L E S , L I K E O M E L E T S A N D Q U I C H E S , A R E N O T S T R I C T L Y F O R B R E A K F A S T ; I N FA CT, T H E Y A R E M O R E T Y P I C A L L Y P A R T O F T H E B R U N C H , L U N C H E O N , O R E V E N T H E D I N N E R M E N U , W H E R E S M A L L S O U F F L E S O F T E N AP PE AR AS HOT A P P E T IZ E R S , A S A V O R Y CO UR SE, OR AS A DESSERT.
savory souffles The basic components o f any souffle, sweet or savory, are the base and beaten egg whites. A heavy bechamel, often with the incorporation of egg yolks, is the base for many savory souffles. Sweet souffles are often based on pastry cream. Other mixtures or preparations, such as vegetable purees, can be used as the base or to flavor a base. It is important that the base mixture provide enough structure to keep the souffle from collapsing as soon as it is removed from the oven. The base may be flavored or garnished in many ways: with grated cheese, chopped spinach, or shellfish, fo r example. Egg whites give both volume and structure to the souffle. They should be carefully separated from the yolks and beaten to soft peaks just before they are folded into the base. Use meticulously clean bowls and whisks to beat the egg whites fo r the best volume in the finished souffle. The yolks may be incorporated into the souffle base, or they may be reserved for other uses. Be sure to keep eggs well chilled at all tim es fo r whotesomeness and flavor. A variety of sauces may be served with souffles. Cheddar Cheese Sauce (page 2 9 5 ) or Mornay Sauce (page 29 5), vegetable coulis, or various tom ato sauces are appropriate for savory souffles. Souffles are usually baked in ceramic or glass souffle dishes or ramekins. For the best rise, the sides of the dish should be straight. To prepare the molds, butter them lightly but thoroughly and dust the sides and bottom with grated Parmesan, flour, or bread crumbs, if desired. The oven should be set to the appropriate tem perature, generally 4 0 0 ° to 4 2 5 °F / 20 4 ° to 218°C fo r an individual portion. The tem perature should be slightly lower for larger souffles. Other equipment needs include a whisk or electric mixer and bowls for whipping the egg whites, a spatula fo r combining the souffle mixture, and a sheet pan for baking.
862
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
savory souffles
Q basic formula Souffle (1 serving)
2 fl oz/60 mL vegetable puree (consistency similar to bechamel)
A BASE, SUCH AS:
A LIGHTENER:
2 fl oz/60 mL heavy bechamel for savory souffles
2 fl oz/60 mL egg whites, beaten to soft peaks
SEASONINGS, FLAVORINGS, OR GARNISH OPTIONS SUCH AS: Salt and pepper Vegetables Grated cheese
2 fl oz/60 mL pastry cream for sweet souffles
method at-a-glance expert tips
Prepare a base. Add the flavoring. 3. Whip the egg whites.
Incorporate the whites into the base.
a
The base contains the flavoring forasouffie. when add ing flavoring or seasoning to the base, it is important that it be somewhat strong. The addition of beaten egg whites will dilute the flavor, so the base should start off very flavorful to account for this.
5. Fill the molds. 6.
Place them in a hot oven.
7. Do not disturb. 8 . Serve the souffles
immediately.
S o m e i n g r e d i e n t s that may be used as flavoring or seasoning for a souffle base are as follows: FLAVORED LIQUIDS FOR PREPARING THE BASE: B RO THS / STO CKS / VEG ETAB LE JUICES OR PUREES
INGREDIENTS ADDED TO THE BASE AFTER ITS PREPARATION: FIN ELY CHO PPED S EA FO O D OR M EA T / GRATED C HEESES / GRATED VEG E TAB LE S / VEG E TA B LE PUREE
ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
863
1. make the base and blend
in the
flavoring. Here, spinach and Parmesan are used. The base mixture fo r many savory souffles is essen tially a heavy bechamel. Egg yolks are often tem pered into the hot base to provide richness, flavor, color, and structure. The base may be prepared in advance and refrigerated. For the best rise in the finished souffle, have the base at room tem perature, or else work it with a wooden spoon until it has softened. Fold flavoring ingre dients such as pureed spinach into the base until evenly blended. Prepare the molds w ith a light film of butter and a dusting o f flour, bread crumbs, or grated Parmesan.
m eth o d in d etail 2. whip the egg whites
to soft peaks
and fold gently to blend the whites with the base. S o ft peaks will produce the proper rise, texture, and structure in the finished souffle. Add the beaten whites in two or three parts. The firs t addition will lighten the base so th a t subsequent additions will retain the maximum volume.
864
BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER
savory souffles
3. fill the prepared molds
as soon as
the egg whites are folded into the base. Spoon or ladle the b atter into the mold gently to avoid knocking air out of the batter. Fill molds about tw o-thirds of the way full. Be sure to wipe the rim and outside of the mold clean fo r a good, even rise.
4. place the souffles im m ediately in a hot oven (4 2 5 °F /2 1 8 °C ) and bake until risen, cooked through, and browned. For even cooking and a good rise, place the molds on a sheet pan on a rack in the center o f the oven. Bake the souffles as soon as the egg whites are folded into the base. Do not disturb the souffles as they bake. The drop in tem perature when the oven door is opened could be enough to d eflate the souffle. Remove individual souffles from the oven when done, 16 to 18 minutes. To check a souffle fo r doneness, shake the dish very gently. The center should be firm and set. A toothpick carefully inserted into the side of the souffle should come out clean. Serve the souffle immediately. Any accompanying sauce should be hot and ready in a dish. The server should be standing by, ready to serve the souffle as soon as it comes from the oven. A properly prepared souffle tastes of the primary flavoring ingredient and is puffy, well risen, and browned.
c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
865
Hard-Cooked Eggs
Deviled Eggs
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
20 eggs
10 Hard-Cooked Eggs (recipe precedes), cold 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
1 . Place the eggs in a pot. Fill the pot with enough cold water to cover the eggs by 2 in/5 cm-
2 . Bring the water to a boil and immediately lower the temperature to a simmer. Begin timing the cooking at this point.
3 . Cook small eggs for 10 minutes, medium eggs for 11
V2 o z/1 4 g prepared mustard Worcestershire sauce, as needed Hot sauce, as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
minutes, large eggs for 12 to 13 minutes, and extralarge eggs for 14 minutes.
4 . Cool the eggs quickly in cold water and peel as soon as possible. Serve the eggs now or refrigerate until needed. NOTES: Cracking the eggsjust a fte r cooking w ill allow the trapped gases inside to escape, thus reducing
1 . Slice the eggs in half lengthwise. Separate the yolks from the whites. Reserve the whites separately until ready to fill.
2 . Rub the yolks through a sieve into a bowl or place them in a food processor.
3 . Add the mayonnaise, mustard, Worcestershire, hot
the amount o f green discoloration around the yolk.
sauce, salt, and pepper. Mix or process the ingredi
Additionally, the eggs w ill peel more easily if peeled as
ents into a smooth paste.
soon as they are cool enough to handle. If allowed to cool completely, the membrane under the skin tends to stick
4 . Pipe or spoon the yolk mixture into the egg whites, garnish as desired, and serve immediately.
to the hard-cooked egg white, making the egg d iff icult to peel.
NOTES: The eggs can be separated and the fillin g mixed
An alternative method fo r hard-cooking eggs is to remove the pot holding the eggs from the heat when the water
in advance, but if the eggs are not to be served
reaches a boil. Cover the pot and let the eggs stand in the hot water fo r 15 minutes. This method is best suited for cooking large batches o f eggs (2 dozen or more).
separately until ju st before service.
Coddled Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering water and simmer fo r 30 seconds. S o ft-C o o ke d Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering water and simmer fo r 3 to 4 minutes. M edium -C ooked Eggs: Lower cold eggs into already simmering water and simmer fo r 5 to 7 minutes.
immediately, the whites and the yolks should be held
Garnishes may include chopped parsley, minced chives, sliced green onion tops, dill sprigs, pim iento strips, chopped olives, caviar, shredded carrots, ground cumin, dried oregano, cayenne, or red pepper flakes. Substitutes fo r all or part o f the mayonnaise include soft butter, compound butter, sour cream, pureed cottage cheese, s o ft cream cheese, yogurt, or creme fraTche.
Deviled Eggs w ith Tom ato: Add 2 oz/5 7g sauteed tom ato concasse, V2 tsp /1 g dried herb (basil, oregano, sage, or thyme), and/or V2 ts p /1 .50 g sauteed minced garlic or shallots to the yolk mixture. Deviled Eggs w ith Greens: Add l 3/) oz/50 g blanched and pureed spinach, watercress, sorrel, lettuce, or other greens to the yolk mixture. Deviled Eggs w ith Cheese: Add Va o z /2 1 g grated hard cheese, or 2 oz/57 g s o ft cheese to the yolk mixture.
866
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Pickled Eggs
Poached Eggs
Makes10servings
Makes10servings
10 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard
1 tb s p /1 0 g salt
2 ts p /6 g cornstarch
2 f I o z/6 0 mL distilled white vinegar
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL white wine vinegar
20 eggs
2 ts p /1 0 g s u g a r 1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric or Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 . Combine the water, salt, and vinegar in a deep sautoir or rondeau and bring it to a bare simmer (160° to i8o°F/7i° to 82°C).
1 . Place the eggs in a stainless-steel bowl or plastic stor age container.
2 . Dilute the mustard and cornstarch in i tbsp/15 mL cold water in a small saucepan. Add the vinegar,
egg carefully into the poaching water. Cook until the whites are set and opaque, 3 to 5 minutes.
3 . Remove the eggs from the water with a slotted
sugar, and turmeric. Bring the mixture to a boil over
spoon, blot them on paper towels, and trim the
medium heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
edges, if desired. The eggs are ready to serve now on
3 . Pour the mixture over the eggs. Cool the eggs and pickling solution to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight. The eggs are ready to serve at this point. Red Pickled Eggs: Replace 8 flo z /2 4 0 m L o f the vinegar w ith beet juice.
868
2 . Break each egg into a clean cup, and then slide the
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
heated plates, or may be rapidly chilled and refriger ated for later service.
(T>
OQ
Poached Eggs Mornay Makes 10 servings 20 toast rounds or ovals
Poached Eggs with Corned Beef Plash Makes 10 servings
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted 2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil or bacon fat 20 Poached Eggs (recipe precedes)
$ T3 a>
C/3
8 o z/2 2 7 g large-dice onions 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mornay Sauce (page 295), warm 5 o z/1 4 2 g large-dice parsnips 3 o z/8 5 g grated Gruyere 3 o z/8 5 g large-dice carrots
1 . Brush the toast with butter and top with the poached eggs. Coat with the sauce and sprinkle with cheese.
2 . Brown lightly under a broiler or salamander and serve immediately.
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g red-skin potatoes, peeled if desired 2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked corned beef, cut into l-in /3 -c m dice 3 tb s p /4 5 mL tomato puree Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Poached Eggs, F a rm e r-S ty le : Top each piece o f toast
w ith 1 peeled tom ato slice, 1 boiled ham slice, creamed mushrooms, and a poached egg. Omit the Mornay sauce and the cheese. Poached Eggs w ith M ushroom s: Replace the toast with
ta rtle t shells. Fill w ith creamed mushrooms, top w ith a poached egg. Omit the Mornay sauce and the cheese, and coat w ith Flollandaise Sauce (page 298).
10 Poached Eggs (recipe precedes) Hollandaise Sauce (page 298), as needed
1 . Heat a roasting pan over medium heat. Pour in 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil, add the onions, and sweat until they are soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the parsnips, carrots, potatoes, and corned beef and cover with
Poached Eggs M assena: Replace the toa st w ith cooked
fresh artichoke bottom s. Omit the Mornay sauce and the cheese. Fill w ith Bearnaise Sauce (page 297), top w ith a poached egg, coat w ith Tomato Sauce (page 295), and sprinkle w ith chopped parsley.
foil.
2 . Place the pan in a 375°F/i9i°C oven and roast for about 1 hour. Remove the foil, stir in the tomato puree, and return the pan to the oven uncovered. Cook until the tomato puree has browned, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cool slightly.
3 . Grind the mixture through a medium plate of a meat grinder. Form into 10 patties (2 to 3 oz/57 to 85 g each) by hand or using a circular mold. Refrigerate until service.
4 . Heat the remaining 2 tbsp/30 mL oil in a heavy saute pan or on a griddle. Cook the patties until crisp on each side and hot in the center. Work in batches if necessary.
5 . Top each of the patties with a poached egg and Hol landaise and serve immediately.
c h a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
869
fD O S
Eggs Benedict
Fried Eggs
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
0> n
20 Poached Eggs (page 868)
20 eggs
10 English muffins, split, toasted, and buttered
21/2 o z /7 0 g clarified or whole butter, as needed for frying
20 slices Canadian bacon, heated 20 fl o z /6 0 0 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298), warm
■ ^ ^
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . If the eggs have been poached in advance, reheat them in simmering water until warmed through.
1 . Break the eggs into clean cups (1 egg per cup).
Blot on toweling and shape if necessary.
2 . For each serving, heat 1V2 tsp/4 g butter in a small
2 . Top each English muffin half with a slice of Cana dian bacon and a poached egg.
3 . Ladle i to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL hollandaise over each egg-
4 . Serve immediately.
nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Slide 2 eggs into the pan and cook until the egg whites have set.
3 . Tilt the pan, allowing the fat to collect at the side of the pan, and baste the eggs with the fat as they cook.
4 . Season the eggs with salt and pepper and serve at once on heated plates.
Eggs Florentine: Replace each slice o f Canadian bacon w ith 2 oz/57 g sauteed spinach. Poached Eggs, Am erican-Style: Replace each slice of Canadian bacon w ith 1 sauteed slice peeled tom ato and replace the hollandaise w ith Cheddar Cheese Sauce (page 295). Garnish w ith chopped cooked bacon and
Eggs Over Easy, Medium, or Hard: Turn the eggs over near the end o f th e ir cooking tim e w ith a spatula and cook them on the second side until done as desired, 20 to 30 seconds fo r over easy, 1 minute fo r over medium, 2 minutes fo r over hard.
parsley. Poached Eggs with Chicken Liver Chasseur: Replace each slice o f Canadian bacon w ith sauteed chicken livers and replace the hollandaise w ith Chasseur Sauce (page 871). Poached Eggs with Smoked Salmon: Replace the English m uffin w ith a toasted bagel and replace each slice o f Canadian bacon w ith 1 slice smoked salmon. Garnish w ith minced chives.
c h a p te r 26 » C O O KING EGGS
871
Scrambled Eggs Makes 10 servings 30 eggs 1 tb sp /1 0 g salt 1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water or milk (optional) 2 'A fI o z/7 5 mL clarified butter or oil
1 . For each portion, beat 3 eggs well and season with salt and pepper. Add liquid (about 1 tablespoon), if
Scram bled Eggs w ith B ra tw u rs t: For each portion, top 2 sauteed slices peeled tom ato w ith the scrambled eggs and 1 oz/2 8 g sliced cooked bratwurst. Scram bled Eggs G ratine: For each portion, top the scrambled eggs w ith Mornay Sauce (page 295), sprinkle w ith grated Gruyere, and brown lightly under a broiler or salamander. Scram bled Eggs, G reek-S tyle : For each portion, slice 1 Japanese eggplant lengthwise into '/ 2-in /l-c m slices, season w ith salt, and saute in oil. Saute 1 oz/2 8 g tom ato concasse w ith garlic, salt, and pepper to taste. Spoon the scrambled eggs on top o f the eggplant slices and top the eggs w ith the tom ato concasse.
using.
2.. Heat a small nonstick saute pan over medium heat and add butter, tilting the pan to coat the entire sur face. The pan should be hot, but not smoking.
3 . Pour the egg mixture into the pan and cook over low
Plain Rolled Omelet Makes 10 servings
heat, stirring frequently with the back of a fork or a wooden spoon, until the eggs are soft and creamy.
30 eggs
Remove the eggs from the heat when fully cooked
1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
but still moist.
4 . Serve at once on a heated plate. Scram bled Egg W hites: S ubstitute 60 f I o z/1 .8 0 L e g g whites fo r the whole eggs and om it the optional liquid. For each serving, beat 6 fl o z/1 80 mL egg whites well and season w ith salt and pepper. Heat a small nonstick saute pan over medium heat and add the butter. (Alternatively, use a light coating o f cooking spray, as many contem porary high-protein diets call fo r little to no fat.) Pour the egg m ixture into the pan. Use a rubber spatula or a wooden spoon to gently pull the egg whites into the center o f the pan, being careful not to break the curds. Cook until the egg whites are s o ft and flu ffy . Break the egg whites into curds at the end o f cooking. Scram bled Eggs w ith Cheese: For each portion, add
V2 o z /1 4 g grated Gruyere or Cheddar to the eggs. If desired, s tir V/ 2 tsp/7.50 mL cream into the eggs just before removing them from the heat.
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water, stock, milk, or cream (optional) 2 V i fI o z/7 5 mL clarified butter or oil, or as needed
1 . For each portion, beat 3 eggs well and season with salt and pepper. Add 1 tablespoon liquid, if using.
2 . Heat a nonstick omelet pan over high heat and add the butter, tilting the pan to coat the entire surface.
3 . Pour the egg mixture into the pan and scramble it with the back of a fork, heatproof rubber spatula, or wooden spoon. Move the pan and utensil at the same time until the egg mixture has coagulated slightly. Smooth the eggs into an even layer.
4 . Let the eggs finish cooking without stirring. 5 . Tilt the pan and slide a fork or spoon around the lip of the pan under the omelet, to be sure it is not
Scram bled Eggs, S w edish-S tyle: For each portion, add 1 oz/2 8 g chopped smoked salmon to the eggs. Garnish w ith 1 tsp /1 g minced chives. Scram bled Eggs, H u n te r-S tyle : For each portion, add V a o z /2 1 g cooked diced bacon and V2 tsp/0.50 g minced chives to the eggs. Prior to service, spoon 3 oz/85 g sauteed sliced mushrooms on top of the scrambled eggs.
BR E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
sticking. Slide the omelet to the front of the pan and use a fork or a wooden spoon to fold it inside to the center. 6 . Turn the pan upside down, rolling the omelet onto the plate. The finished omelet should be oval. NOTES: Options fo r fillin g an omelet: A precooked fillin g
r
d
QTQ may be added to the eggs a fte r they have been smoothed
mL sour cream, creme fraTche, or yogurt and 2 oz/57 g
into an even layer and before the om elet is rolled.
cooked shrimp, smoked salmon, lobster, or other cooked
Alternatively, the rolled omelet can be s lit open at the
and/or smoked fish, caviar, or seafood.
top, and a precooked, heated fillin g or sauce can be spooned into the pocket. To give the om elet additional sheen, brush the surface lightly w ith butter.
S h e llfish O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 3 or 4 oysters, clams, or mussels th a t have been steamed b rie fly in b u tte r w ith wine and shallots.
GTQ i-i O)
n 1—*< id rD C/3
W estern O m elet: Fill each omelet w ith 1 oz/2 8 g each sauteed diced ham, red and green peppers, and onions. Add grated Monterey Jack or Cheddar, if desired.
Plain Rolled Egg W hite O m elet: S ubstitute 60 f I oz/1.80 L egg whites fo r the whole eggs and om it the optional liquid. For each serving, beat 6 f I o z/1 80 mL egg whites well and season w ith salt and pepper. Heat an om elet pan over medium heat and add the butter. (Alternatively, use a light coating o f cooking spray, as many contem porary high-protein diets call fo r little to
Spanish O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 oz/5 7g tom ato concasse or sauce and 1 o z/2 8 g each sauteed diced onions and green peppers. Jelly O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 to 3 tb sp /3 0 to 45 mL jelly, chutney, or other preserved fruits.
no fat.) Pour the egg m ixture into the pan. Use a rubber spatula or a wooden spoon to gently pull the egg whites into the center o f the pan, being careful not to break the curds. Smooth the egg whites into an even layer and let them finish cooking w ith ou t stirring. Finish as you would a plain omelet.
Farmer-Style Omelet Makes 10 servings
Cheese O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith V2 o z /1 4 g g ra te d or diced cheese such as Gruyere or Cheddar.
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced bacon or 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL vegetable oil
Cheese and V egetable O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith any com bination o f cheese and vegetables in a sim ilar flavor profile, such as goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, Gorgonzola and sauteed spinach or mushrooms, cream
10 o z/2 8 4 g minced onion
cheese and olives, or Gruyere and sauteed leeks.
30 eggs
M ea t and Cheese O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 1 oz/2 8 g diced cooked meat (turkey, ham, or sausage) and 1 oz/
10 o z/2 8 4 g diced cooked potato
lt b s p /lO g s a lt 1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
2 8 g g ra te d cheese. Herb O m elet: Before rolling, sprinkle each omelet with 2 tsp /2 g fin e ly chopped herbs such as parsley, thyme, chervil, tarragon, basil, and oregano. Alternatively, the herbs can be added to the eggs before cooking. Tom ato O m elet: Fill each om elet w ith 2 f l oz/6 0 mL relatively thick Tomato Coulis (page 296). O m elet F lore ntin e: Fill each omelet w ith V/ 2 oz/43 g sauteed spinach. O m elet M arcel: Fill each omelet w ith 3 oz/8 5gsa utee d sliced mushrooms and 1 oz/2 8 g sauteed sliced ham. Garnish w ith minced chives. O m elet Opera: Fill each om elet w ith 2 oz/5 7g lightly sauteed chicken livers, deglazed w ith Madeira Sauce (page 463). Garnish each om elet w ith 3 asparagus tips and spoon 1 to 2 f l oz/30 to 60 mL Hollandaise Sauce (page 298) on top. S eafood O m elet: Fill each omelet w ith 2 to 3 ts p /1 0 to 15
1 . For each serving, render 1 oz/28 g of bacon in a small cast-iron or nonstick skillet until crisp, or heat 1 tbsp/15 mL of the oil.
2 . Add 1 oz/28 g of the onions and saute over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
3 . Add 1 oz/28 g of the potatoes and saute until lightly browned, 5 minutes more.
4 . Meanwhile, beat 3 eggs together with salt and pep per. Pour them over the ingredients in the skillet and stir gently.
5 . Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and cook until the eggs are nearly set. 6 . Remove the cover and place the skillet under a broiler or salamander to brown the eggs lightly. Serve at once on a heated plate.
ch a p te r 26 » CO O KING EGGS
873
Souffleed Cheddar Omelet Makes 10 servings
1 . To make the souffle base, heat the butter in a medi um saucepan over medium heat and stir in the flour. Cook this roux over low to medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently, to make a blond roux.
2 . Add the milk, whisking well until the mixture is very 30 eggs 2 V i
ts p /8 g salt
V A ts p /2.50 g ground white pepper 5 o z/1 42 g grated sharp Cheddar 2 tb sp /6 g minced chives 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL clarified butter or oil
smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer over low heat, stirring constantly, until very thick and smooth, 15 to 20 minutes.
3 . Blend the yolks with some of the hot base to temper. Stir the tempered yolks into the base mixture and continue to simmer over very low heat 3 to 4 min utes, stirring constantly. Do not allow the mixture to boil.
1 . For each serving to order, separate 3 eggs. Beat the
4 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and strain
yolks and season with XU tsp/i g salt and a pinch of
through a sieve, if necessary. The base is ready to use
pepper. Add the cheese and chives to the beaten
now or may be cooled rapidly and stored for later
yolks.
use.
2 . Whisk the egg whites to medium peaks and fold into the yolks.
3 . Pour the eggs into a preheated, well-oiled small castiron or nonstick skillet. When the sides and bottom have set, finish the omelet in a 400°F/204°C oven until fully set and light golden on top. Serve immediately.
5 . To make the spinach souffles, prepare ten 6-fl oz/ 180-mL ramekins by brushing them liberally with soft butter. Lightly dust the interior of each mold with grated Parmesan. 6 . For each portion, blend together 2 fl oz/6o mL souf fle base, 1 oz/28 g spinach, 1 tbsp/30 mL grated Par mesan, salt, and pepper until the spinach is evenly distributed.
Spinach Souffle Makes 10 portions
7 . Whisk 1 egg white for each souffle to soft peaks in a clean mixing bowl. Fold about one-third of the beaten white into the base. Stir in the remaining egg white in one or two additions.
SOUFFLE BASE 2 o z/5 7 g butter 2 V i
oz/71 g all-purpose flour
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL milk Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 15 egg yolks
8 . Spoon the souffle batter into the prepared molds to within V2 inch/i cm of the rim. Wipe the rim care fully to remove any batter. Tap the souffles gently on the counter to settle the batter. Sprinkle the souffle tops with the remaining Parmesan.
9 . Place the souffles on a sheet pan in a 425°F/2i8°C oven and bake undisturbed until puffy and a skewer inserted in the center comes out relatively clean, 16 to 18 minutes. Serve immediately.
Butter, soft, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan, plus as needed for dusting molds 10 o z/2 8 4 g blanched chopped spinach Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 egg whites
BR E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Savory Cheese Souffle: Replace the 10 o z/2 84 g blanched chopped spinach w ith 3 oz/85 g o f grated Gruyere or Emmentaler.
O)
Qrq
Artichoke S ouffle Makes 10 portions 10 globe artichokes
Warm Goat Cheese Custard
QTQ Hi a> n
i—'«
Makes 10 servings
Lemon juice, as needed 6 o z/1 7 0 g cream cheese, room temperature Salt, as needed
rt> GO
9 o z/2 5 5 g soft goat cheese, room temperature 13 eggs, separated V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper, plus as needed 10 o z/2 8 4 grated Gruyere 9 eggs 24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL milk 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL heavy cream 2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch 1 o z/2 8 g minced chives Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb sp /1 0 g salt, plus as needed
1 . Trim the artichokes and cook in simmering water
40 seedless green grapes
seasoned with lemon juice and salt in a medium stockpot until tender. When the artichokes are ten der, drain well and scrape the flesh from the leaves; discard the chokes and save the bottoms.
2 . Puree the artichoke flesh and bottoms, egg yolks, Gruyere, milk, and cornstarch in a food processor. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Beat the egg whites to soft peaks in a clean mixing
1 . Combine the cream cheese with 6 oz/170 g of the goat cheese (reserve the remainder for garnish) in a food processor. Season with the pepper and process until very smooth.
2 . Add the eggs, 8 fl oz/240 mL of the cream, half of the chives, and the salt. Pulse the processor on and off until the ingredients are just blended. Divide the
bowl and fold into the artichoke mixture in three
mixture among 10 buttered 2-fl oz/6o-mL timbale
additions. Pour the mixture into 10 greased 6-fl oz/
molds and cover the molds with buttered parchment
180-mL souffle ramekins.
paper.
4 . Bake in a 400°F/204°C oven until done, about 20 minutes. Serve at once.
3 . Place the timbale molds in a bain-marie and bake in a 325°F/i63°C oven until a knife inserted near the center of a timbale comes away clean.
4 . Reduce the remaining cream by half and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the remaining chives and the grapes to the cream immediately before service.
5 . Unmold the timbales and coat with the sauce. Gar nish with the reserved goat cheese and serve immediately. NOTE: Replace the goat cheese w ith another s o ft cheese such as Boursin, Brillat-Savarin, Camembert, or Brie.
ch a p te r 26 » C O O KING EGGS
875
Quiche Lorraine Makes 10 servings 8 o z/2 2 7 g diced slab bacon 1 o z/2 8 g butter or oil 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL heavy cream 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL milk 4 eggs 1 ts p /3 g salt
V* ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper Pinch ground nutmeg 4 o z/1 1 3 g grated Emmentaler 9 o z/2 5 5 g Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 ) (page 1070), rolled, f it into a 9-in /23-cm quiche pan, blind baked
1 . In a medium saute pan, render the bacon in the but ter until browned. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and drain. Discard the rendered fat or save for another use.
2 . Whisk together the cream, milk, and eggs. Season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
3 . Scatter the bacon and cheese evenly over the crust. Add the custard mixture gradually, stirring it gently with the back of a fork to distribute the filling ingre dients evenly.
4 . Set the quiche pan on a sheet pan and bake in a 350°F/i77°C oven until a knife blade inserted in the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. NOTES: Quiche may also be baked w ithout a pastry crust. Butter a shallow casserole or baking dish. Sprinkle it with grated Parmesan, if desired. Spread the fillin g ingredients over the casserole bottom . Pour the custard on top. Bake in a bain-marie until a knife inserted near the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Quiche may also be baked in ta rtle t shells, tim bale molds, or custard cups.
Spinach Quiche: Substitute 1 lb /4 54 g spinach, blanched, squeezed dry, and coarsely chopped, fo r all or part of the bacon.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Tomato and Leek Quiche: S ubstitute 10 o z /2 8 4 g tom ato concasse and 8 oz/227 g sauteed chopped leeks fo r the bacon: For the leeks, saute the white and light green parts only in b u tte r until translucent. Add the tom ato concasse and saute until the liquid evaporates. Add
2 tb s p / 6 g minced tarragon or basil. Caramelized Onion Quiche: Substitute caramelized onions fo r all or part o f the bacon: For 6 oz/170 g caramelized onions, cook 10 o z /2 8 4 g sliced onions in 2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil over medium-low heat until golden brown and soft, about 15 minutes. Substitute Provolone fo r the Emmentaler. Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche: Substitute 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced smoked salmon fo r the bacon and om it the firs t step. S ubstitute 2 oz/57 g cream cheese, cut or broken into small pieces, fo r the Emmentaler. Add 2 tbsp /6 g chopped dill and 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives. Broccoli and Cheddar Quiche: Substitute 5 oz/142 g broccoli flore ts, sauteed in olive oil until tender, fo r all or part o f the bacon. S ubstitute Cheddar fo r the Emmentaler.
French Toast Makes 10 servings
Z . Combine the milk, eggs, sugar, salt, and cinnamon
and nutmeg, if using. Mix into a smooth batter. Re frigerate until needed.
30 Challah (page 1044) slices, c u t'/i to Vi in /6 mm to 1 cm thick 1 q t/9 6 0 m L m ilk 8 eggs
3 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and grease with Vz to i oz/141° 28 g butter, if using, or use a nonstick pan over medium heat.
4 . Dip 6 pieces of bread into the batter, coating the
2 o z/5 7 g sugar
slices evenly. Fry the slices on one side until evenly
Pinch salt
browned; turn and brown the other side. Repeat the
Pinch ground cinnamon (optional) Pinch ground nutmeg (optional)
process for the remaining bread. Keep warm in a very low oven while cooking the remaining batches.
5 . Serve the French toast at once on heated plates.
5 to 10 o z/1 4 2 to 2 8 4 g butter (optional) NOTE: Serve w ith b u tte r and maple syrup or honey.
1 . Dry the challah slices on sheet pans overnight or in a 2oocF/93°C oven for l hour.
Garnishing options include confectioners' sugar, cinnamon sugar, toasted nuts, and/or fresh or dried fruit.
salad dressings and salads Salads appear on the menu in so many d ifferent guises today that it is easy to imagine that they were invented by this generation of chefs. In fact, fresh concoctions of seasoned herbs and lettuces have been relished in every part of the world from the beginning of recorded culinary history.
CHAPTER 27
V in a ig r e t t e s in
m a n y
are
o th er
t h o u g h t
w a ys
as
of
w e l l
m a in l y
as
d r e s s in g s
for
green
s a l a d s
, but they
are
used
: a s m a r in a d e s f o r g r il l e d or b r o il e d f o o d s ; to d r e s s s a l a d s
M A D E F R O M PASTAS, G R A IN S , V E G E T A B L E S , A N D BE A N S; AS DIPS; AS S A U C E S S E R V E D W IT H H O T OR C O LD E N T R E E S A N D A P P E T IZ E R S ; B R U S H E D ON S A N D W IC H E S .
vinaigrette A vinaigrette is a tem porary emulsion made by blending oil, acid, and other ingredients un til they form a homogeneous sauce. The sauce remains an emulsion for a only a short time, quickly separating back into oil and vinegar. Both oils and vinegars can be flavored. To add flavor and help stabilize the sauce, an emulsifier is sometimes included. A standard vinaigrette ratio of three parts oil to one part acid works well as a starting point, but the vinaigrette needs to be tasted and evaluated whenever a change is made in the type of oil, acid, or specific flavoring ingredients. Select the oil with an eye to both its flavor and cost. Oils used in salad dressings can be subtle or intensely flavored. Oils may serve simply to carry the other flavors in the vin aigrette, or they may have readily identifiable flavors of their own. Very strongly flavored oils are often blended with less intense oils to produce a balanced flavor in the finished sauce. The choice of acid ranges widely as well, from vinegar, to fru it juice, to malted barley, to similar acidic liquids. Every vinegar has a d iffe ren t level of tartness or acidity. Additional vinaigrette ingredients include emulsifiers (egg yolks, mustard, roasted garlic, fru it or vegetable purees, or glace de viande) and such seasonings as salt, pepper, herbs, and spices. The challenge of making a good vinaigrette ties in achieving balance, a point at which the acidity of the vinegar or juice is tem pered but not dominated by the rich ness of the oil. Equipment needs for making vinaigrettes are minimal: measuring spoons or cups, a bowl, and a whisk or a blender, immersion blender, food processor, or electric mixer.
880
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
basic formula
P
I—*«
GTQ Vinaigrette
16 fl oz/480 mL vinegar
(2 qt/1.92 L) Salt, pepper, and other seasonings I V 2 qt/1.44 L oil
CD r-t c+
CD
1 . Combine the vinegar and
seasonings. 2. Slowly whisk in the oil until
a homogeneous m ixture is formed. 3. Serve the dressing
im m ediately or store it. 4. Before dressing the salad,
thoroughly recombine all the vinaigrette ingredients.
Good-quaiity oils and vinegars
can be infused with spices,
aromatics, herbs, and fruits or vegetables. They can be used in vinaigrettes and other dressings for a special effect. See Flavored Oils and Vinegars, page 883, for instructions on these infusions.
CHEF'S NOTES ON VINAIGRETTES The challenge to making a good vinaigrette
starting point, but the flavor of a vinai
is to achieve a balance between the acid
grette should be evaluated and adjusted.
and the oil, so that the flavor of the acid
The acidity of citrus and vinegars vary
comes through and is not dominated by
widely depending on the season or the
the oil. The standard vinaigrette ratio is three
just the amount of oil.
manufacturer, making it necessary to ad
parts oil to one part acid. This is a good
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
881
1. combine the vinegar
w ith th e em ul
s ifie r and seasoning in g re d ie n ts f ir s t. A dd in g th e m ustard , salt, pepper, herbs, or o th e r in g re d ie n ts to th e vin eg ar is the e a sie st w ay to be sure they are evenly dispe rsed th ro u g h o u t th e sauce f o r an even fla v o r b e fo re adding th e oil.
m eth o d in d etail 2. add the oil gradually w hile w h iskin g c o n s ta n tly to cre a te a th ick, e m u ls ifie d v in a ig re tte . W hisk in th e oil, o r to cre a te a m ore sta b le v in a ig re tte , use a blender, im m e rsion blender, e le c tric m ixe r w ith a w ire whip, o r fo o d processor. V in a ig re tte s made by m a chine hold th e ir em ulsion longer than tho se th a t are sim ply w hisked to g e th e r. Crum bled cheese, fre s h o r d rie d fr u its and ve g e ta bles, or o th e r garnishes can be added, if desired. As the v in a ig re tte sits, it w ill begin to separate. W hisk or s tir the sauce b e fo re each use to reco m bin e the oil and vinegar. Cover and re frig e ra te v in a ig re tte s when n o t in use. For o p tim u m fla vo r, make v in a ig re tte s in q u a n titie s th a t w ill la st no lo ng er than th re e days. A w e ll-m a de v in a ig re tte should be n e ith e r to o sour nor to o o ily and th e co n siste n cy o f th e sauce such th a t i t clings nicely to th e greens w ith o u t lo okin g o r fe e lin g greasy. The b e st w ay to check is to to s s som e o f th e salad w ith th e v in a ig re tte and ta s te th e sauce on the salad.
882
BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER
<
I—■■ 2
FLAVORED OILS AND VINEGARS
P
I—»■
Good-quality oils and vinegars can be
vinegar and transfer to a storage container.
Qrq
infused with spices, aromatics, herbs,
Leave the oil or vinegar as is and use it like
CD
and fruits or vegetables. Flavored oils and
a puree, or strain it to remove the fibers
vinegars work well as condiments, or as
and pulp.
a drizzle or droplets on a plated dish to
0)
» Combine room-temperature oils or vinegars
add a bit of intense flavor and color. They
with ground spices and transfer them to a
are also excellent to use as dressings for
storage container. Let the mixture sit until
vegetables, pastas, grains, or fruits. And
the spices have settled in the bottom of the
of course, they cam be used in vinaigrettes
container and the vinegar or oil is clear.
and other dressings for a special effect. To flavor oils and vinegars, use one of the following methods: » Heat the oil or vinegar very gently over low heat. The flavoring ingredients, such as citrus zest or garlic, may be added to the oil or vinegar as it warms. Let the oil or vinegar steep off the heat with the flavoring ingredients until cool, then pour into stor age bottles or containers.
Refrigerate the flavored oil or vinegar to rest for at least 3 hours and up to 36 hours. The time will vary according to the inten sity of the flavoring ingredients and the intended use. Taste the oil or vinegar occa sionally and, if necessary, strain or decant it into a clean bottle. Strain the vinegar or oil for a clearer final product, or leave the aromatics in for a more intense flavor. Add fresh aromat
» Heat the oil or vinegar without any added
ics after the oil or vinegar has steeped for
flavorings, then pour it over the flavoring
several days to give am even more intense
ingredients and cool. Pour the infused oil
flavor, if desired.
or vinegar into storage containers.
» Puree raw, blanched or fully cooked veg
NOTE: Fresh or raw ingredients added to an oil or vinegar increase the risk of
etables, herbs, or fruits. Bring the puree to
food-borne illness. Keep scratch-made ver
a simmer, reducing it if necessary to con
sions refrigerated. Use within a few days
centrate flavors. Add the puree to the oil or
for the best flavor and color.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
883
M a y o n n a i s e , b e c a u s e o f it s g r e a t v e r s a t i l i t y , is o f t e n i n c l u d e d in t h e l i s t o f t h e b a s ic o r " g r a n d " S A U C E S P R E P A R E D I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K I T C H E N . M A Y O N N A I S E IS A C O L D S A U C E M A D E BY C O M B I N I N G EGG Y O L K S W I T H O I L T O F O R M A S T A B L E E M U L S I O N .
mayonnaise Unlike vinaigrette, this sauce does not break as it sits. Mayonnaise and sauces made with mayonnaise as a base can be used to dress salads or as a dip or spread. Among the famous mayonnaise-based sauces are Remoulade Sauce (page 520), Green Mayonnaise (page 903), A'foli (garlic mayonnaise; page 904), and Tartar Sauce (page 903). Classic recipes for mayonnaise call fo r 6 to 8 fl o z /1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL of oil to each egg yolk. Egg yolks provide both the liquid, which holds the oil droplets in suspension, and an em ulsifier known as lecithin. To avoid any possible food-borne illnesses (such as those caused by S alm on ella or E. coli), professional chefs should use pasteurized egg yolks. Since mayonnaise is often intended as a base sauce to be used for a variety of pur poses, it is usually best to choose an oil th at does not have a pronounced flavor o f its own. There are exceptions to this general rule, however. For example, a mayonnaise made with extra-virgin olive oil or a nut oil would be appropriate to serve as a dip with a p latter of grilled vegetables or crudites. A small amount of mustard is often called for in mayonnaise. Though prepared mustard is used as an em ulsifier in some cold sauces and vinaigrettes, its primary function in a may onnaise is flavor. Various acids may also be used to prepare a mayonnaise, including lemon juice or wine or cider vinegars. The acid, along with water, flavors the sauce as well as pro vides additional moisture fo r the emulsification. Using distilled white vinegar also helps to keep the mayonnaise white. Additional flavoring ingredients, such as garlic or herbs, may also be needed as indicated by specific recipe and/or desired use. Equipment needs fo r making mayonnaise are minimal: measuring spoons or cups, a bowl, and a whisk are appropriate for small quantities. For large batches, use a blender, food processor, or electric mixer. Mayonnaise sauces should be held in very clean storage containers.
884
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
mayonnaise
Q basic formula Mayonnaise (26 fl oz/780 mL [3'A cups])
2 tbsp to 2 fl oz/30 to 60 mL lemon juice, vinegar, or a combination
3 fl oz/90 mL pasteurized
2 tsp/4 g dry mustard (optional)
2tb sp /30m L w ater Salt, pepper, and other seasonings
egg yolks (3 large) 24 fl oz/720 mL oil
m eth o d at-a-glan ce Beat the egg yolks with a small amount o f vinegar and/or lemon and dry mustard until they are frothy. 2. Gradually incorporate the
oil, beating constantly. 3. Add a small amount of
ex p ert tips Additional ingredients
a
can be added to develop more flavor.
Some are added during the preparation of the mayonnaise to infuse flavors and assist in the creation of the emulsion, while others can be added at the end of the preparation: IN FU S E D O ILS / PR EPARED M U S TA R D / FRESH HERBS / SPIC E S
water as the mayonnaise begins to s tiffe n . 4. Add any additional
seasonings or flavoring ingredients such as lemon juice, W orcestershire sauce, or hot sauce. 5. Serve the dressing at
once or store it under refrigeration.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
885
1. blend the yolks with a bit of lemon juice or vinegar and the dry mustard. Whisking the yolks with vinegar or lemon juice prepares them to combine with the oil to form a good thick mayonnaise. Whisk the yolks and the chosen acid together to loosen the eggs.
m eth o d in d etail 2. pour the oil into the egg yolks while whisking constantly. Add the oil a little at a time, whisking it in completely. S ta rt pouring slowly and gradually increase the amount of oil. The oil must be whipped into the egg yolks so th at it is broken up into very fine droplets. Adding the oil slowly allows a good emulsion to begin to form. If the oil is added too quickly, the droplets will be too large to emulsify properly, and the sauce will appear broken. Once onequarter to one-third of the oil has been properly blended into the egg mixture, start to increase the speed at which the oil is added. When preparing mayonnaise in a machine, add the oil in a thin stream as the machine runs. It is still true th at the oil should be added more slowly at the beginning than at the end. Adjust the thickness and flavor of the sauce by add ing a bit more acid or w ater when incorporating the oil. The more oil th at is added to the yolks, the thicker the sauce will become. Add more lemon juice, vinegar, or a little w ater when the mayonnaise becomes very thick. If this step is neglected, the sauce will become too thick to absorb any more oil and can separate. Add any additional flavoring or garnish ingredients at the point indicated in the recipe.
886
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
mayonnaise
3. by adding flavoring or garnish in gredients, a basic mayonnaise can be used to produce a diffe ren t sauce. AYoli, a garlic-flavored mayonnaise, calls for a good quantity of garlic to be included in the earli est stages of mixing. However, other ingredients may be blended into the sauce once the oil is incorporated to cre ate sauces such as Remoulade Sauce (page 5 2 0) or Green Goddess Dressing (page 901). A properly made mayonnaise has a mild and balanced flavor, w ithout any predominance of acidic or oily flavors. It is thick, creamy, and completely homogeneous in te x ture and appearance. The color is white or slightly o ffwhite, not greenish or yellow. Keep mayonnaise refrigerated at all times once it is prepared. Transfer it to a storage container, cover it care fully, and label it with a date. Before using mayonnaise th at has been stored, stir it gently and check the season ing carefully. If the sauce needs to be thinned, add a bit of water.
FIXING A BROKEN MAYONNAISE Mayonnaise and similarly prepared dress
A broken mayonnaise can be saved by
ings may break for a number of reasons:
combining 2 tbsp/30 mL of pasteurized
» The oil was added too rapidly for the egg yolk to absorb it. » The sauce was allowed to become too thick.
egg yolk with 1 tsp/5 mL water and beating the mixture until foamy. Gradually add the broken mayonnaise into the diluted yolk, whisking constantly, until the mayonnaise regains a smooth, creamy appearance.
» The sauce became either too cold or too warm as it was being prepared.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
887
In
IT S M O S T B A S I C F O R M , A G R E E N S A L A D ( S O M E T I M E S C A L L E D A T O S S E D S A L A D , M I X E D S A L A D , OR
GARDEN s a l a d )
IS M A D E O F O N E O R M O R E T E N D E R G R E E N S T O S S E D W I T H A D R E S S I N G . G A R N I S H E S
SU C H AS O T H E R V E G E T A B L E S , C R O U T O N S , A N D C H E E S E S AR E O F T E N I N C L U D E D AS W E L L . T h e SA LA D 'S C H A R A C T E R IS D E T E R M I N E D B Y T H E G R E E N S S E L E C T E D .
G R E E N S A R E O F T E N G R O U P E D A C C O R D I N G TO
TH E IR FLAVO RS A N d / o r TE X TU R E S .
green salads Commercially prepared salad blends are available today, but chefs can also create their own by combining lettuces from within one group or by selecting from among two or more groups. For more information on specific salad green varieties, see Lettuce, page 154, and B itter Salad Greens, page 156. Separate the lettuce or other heading greens into leaves. Loose heads and bunching greens will separate into individual leaves easily. Trim the coarse ribs or stem ends away if necessary. To remove the core from heading lettuce, use a paring knife to cut out the core. Greens and herbs used for salads are often quite sandy and gritty, and nothing is worse than a g ritty salad. All greens, including prepackaged salad mixes, must be washed before serving. Removing all traces of dirt from them is a very im portant part of the mise en place for the pantry and hot line. Wash greens thoroughly in plenty of cool w ater to remove all traces of dirt or sand. Hydroponically raised greens, prepared as mesclun mixes and prerinsed, and "triple washed" bagged spinach, may need only a quick plunge or rinse with coot w ater to refresh them. Other leafy greens should be cleaned by plunging them in a sink filled with cool water. L ift them from the water, drain the sink, and repeat until there are no signs of grit remaining in the water. Change the w ater as often as necessary until absolutely no traces of dirt, grit, or sand are visible in the rinsing water. Dry the greens completely. Salad dressings cling best to well-dried greens. In addition, carefully dried greens last in storage longer. A key piece of equipment in salad making is the spinner. This tool, which comes in both hand-operated and large-scale electric ver sions, uses centrifugal force to spin the w ater away from the greens so th at they have a b etter flavor and dressing clings evenly to them. Use either a large-scale electric spinner for volume salad making or a hand basket for smaller batches. Clean and sanitize the spin ner carefully a fte r each use. If a spinner is not available, drain the greens well, spread them out in thin layers on sheet pans and air-dry inside a refrigerator. Store cleaned greens in tubs or other containers. Once greens are cleaned and dried, keep them refrigerated until you are ready to dress and serve them. Use cleaned salad greens within a day or two. Do not stack cleaned salad greens too deep; their own weight could bruise the leaves. Cut or tear the lettuce into bite-size pieces. Diners should never be forced to use a knife to cut the lettuce. Traditional salad-making manuals have always called fo r lettuces to be torn rather than cut to avoid discoloring, bruising, or crushing the leaves. The choice to either cut or tea r lettuce is primarily a m atter of personal style and preference. With today's high-carbon stainless-steel knives, discoloration is not a problem. As long as the blade is properly sharpened and a good cutting technique is used, the leaves will be sliced rather than crushed or bruised.
888
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
gredients, because the dressing serves to pull all the flavors together. Use delicate dress ings with delicately flavored greens and more robust dressings with more strongly flavored greens. Consider the weight and coating capabilities of different dressings as well. Vinai grettes coat lightly but evenly. Emulsified vinaigrette dressings and light mayonnaise dress ings, which are thicker than vinaigrettes, tend to coat the ingredients more heavily. Choose garnishes according to the season and your desired presentation. Either toss
green salads
Garnish and dress the salad. The dressing's flavor should be appropriate to the salad in
these ingredients with the greens as they are being dressed or marinate them separately in a little vinaigrette and use them to top or place around the salad. To dress a salad: »
Place the greens (about 3 o z /8 5 g or 6 fl o z /1 8 0 mL per serving) in a bowl.
»
Ladle a portion of salad dressing over them (1 to 2 fl o z /3 0 to 60 mL per serving).
»
Toss the salad using tongs, spoons, or, if appropriate, gloved hands.
»
Be sure each piece of lettuce is coated completely but lightly, with just enough dress ing fo r the greens; if the dressing pools on the plate, there is too much.
CROUTONS Croutons are often used as a garnish
» To toast croutons in the oven or under a
for salads as well as soups and stews.
broiler or salamander, spread them in a
Croustades, crostini, rusks, and bruschetta
single layer on a sheet pan. Turn them
are all types of croutons. Some are cut into
from time to time to toast them evenly and
slices, others into cubes or disks. Some are
check frequently to avoid scorching.
toasted, some deep fried, some grilled, and
» To panfry croutons, add the bread to hot
some broiled. (Large croutons, made to act
clarified butter or oil in a saute pan, fry
as the base for canapes, hors d’oeuvre, and
until evenly browned, and drain well on
roasted or grilled meats, reflect medieval
paper towels.
European practices when plates were actu ally slabs of bread intended for consump
» Add herbs or grated cheese while still hot.
tion once they had been well dampened
Good croutons are light in color, relatively
with juices and sauces from the meal.)
greaseless, and well seasoned with a crisp,
To make croutons:
crunchy texture throughout.
» Cut bread (crusts removed or not) into the desired size. Rub, spray, or toss the cubes or slices lightly with oil or clarified butter, if desired. Add salt and pepper.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
889
F r u it s h a v e a v a r ie t y OTHERS
of
c h a r a c t e r is t ic s
LO SE Q .U A L IT Y V E R Y
B A N A N A S , CAN
, m a k in g s o m e
RA PIDLY . F r UITS TH A T T U R N
BE T R E A T E D W I T H
f r u it
sa la d s
BROWN, SUCH
C I T R U S J U I C E TO K E E P T H E M
FROM
f a ir l y
s tu r d y
w h il e
AS A P PLE S, PEARS, AND
O X ID IZ IN G , AS LONG AS TH E
F L A V O R O F T H E J U I C E D O E S N ’T C O M P E T E W I T H T H E O T H E R I N G R E D I E N T S IN T H E S A L A D , A N D T H E Y A R E N O T P R E P A R E D T O O FA R I N A D V A N C E .
fruit salads Mixed fru it salads th at include highly perishable fruits can be produced fo r volume op erations by preparing the base from the least perishable fruits. The more perishable items, such as raspberries, strawberries, or bananas, can then be combined with smaller batches or individual servings at the last moment, or they can be added as a garnish. Fruits such as bananas should not be cut and refrigerated but rather added at the last moment. Fresh herbs such as mint, basil, or lemon thyme may be added to fru it salads as a fla voring agent and/or garnish. Experiment to determine which herbs work best with the fruits selected fo r the salad. To prepare fruit salads, you must learn how to peel and slice or cut a variety of fruits. Be fore working with any fruit, be sure it is properly rinsed. To avoid cross contamination, clean and sanitize cutting boards and tools properly. Refrigerate cut fruits until they are served.
APPLES To prevent discoloration of the cut surfaces of apples, as well as pears, peaches, and ba nanas, prepare them as needed or, if necessary, toss them in w ater that has been acidulated with a little citrus juice. Choose a juice with a flavor that complements the fruit's flavor. There shouldn't be so much acid th at it overwhelms the fruit. To clean and peel an apple, use the tip o f a paring knife to remove the stem and blossom ends. Use a paring knife or swivel-bladed peeler to cut away the skin. Peel apples as thin as possible to avoid trim loss. Once the peel is removed, halve from top to bottom and cut into quarters. To core the quarters, work from the stem end, angling your cut to the midpoint of the core, where it is deepest. Make a second cut working from the opposite direction. To cut very even slices, use a mandoline. Working with a whole peeled apple, make slices from one side of the apple until just before the core is reached. Turn and repeat on the op posite side. When the flesh has been removed from the two wide sides, slice the flesh from the now-narrow sides of the apple.
CITRUS FRUITS Citrus fruits, including oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit, are used to add flavor, mois ture, and color to dishes. They are also served as a functional garnish with some foods— fo r instance, a wedge of lemon with broiled fish. Before juicing citrus fruits, allow them to come to room tem perature, if possible. Roll the fru it under the palm of your hand on a cutting board or other work surface before juicing to break some of the membranes. This helps to release more juice. Remember to strain out the seeds and pulp, either by cover ing the fru it with cheesecloth before squeezing it or by straining it a fte r juicing. There are numerous special tools to juice citrus fruits, including reamers, extractors, and hand-operated and electric juicers.
890
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
fruit salads
Zesting citrus
Making citrus supremes
Citrus zest is the outer portion of
Cutting the flesh away from all the connective membranes of the fruit makes
the fruit’s peel or rind. It is used
citrus supremes, also called sections or segments.
to add color, texture, and flavor to dishes. The zest includes only the
1 .
skin’s brightly colored part, which
th e peel o f th e orange. Be c a re fu l to cut aw ay as little fles h as possible.
contains much of the fruit’s flavorful
A f te r c u ttin g aw ay th e ends o f th e fru it, use a paring kn ife to rem ove
and aromatic volatile oils. It does not
2.
include the underlying white pith,
m em brane th a t divides th e orange segm ents. Have a bowl ready to catch the
which has a bitter taste. You can use
suprem es as you w ork.
To m ake suprem es, use a p aring kn ife to cut along each side o f the
the fine openings on a box grater or a rasp to make grated zest, or a paring knife, peeler, or zester for other cuts. Zest is often blanched before it is used in a dish to remove any un pleasant bitter flavor. To blanch zest, cook it briefly in simmering water, shock, and drain. Repeat as often as necessary; generally two to three blanchings are best. Add sugar to the blanching water for a sweetened zest.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
891
Mangos A mango has a flat seed in the center of the flesh. If cut from the stem end to the pointed end of the mango, the flesh comes away from the pit more easily. The fruit may be peeled before cutting the flesh from the pit, if desired. The peel is left on to produce a special decorative cut known as the hedgehog cut. To dice the mango for pureeing or for a less decorative approach, peel it by making a series of cuts, removing as little edible fruit as possible. Cut a slice from the other side of the pit, cutting as close to the pit as possible for the best yield. Cut the remaining flesh from the two narrow sides, following the curve of the pit. Cube or slice the mango as desired. For the hedgehog cut, the mango is not peeled before the flesh is sliced from the pit. This technique can be used to prepare mangos for salads or other uses, or it may be used for a decorative presentation on a fruit plate. 1 .
Use a c h e fs kn ife to c a re fu lly slice as close to th e p it as possible to
rem ove th e m o s t flesh. If desired, th e re m a in d er o f th e m ango can be peeled and th e fles h cut aw ay fro m th e p it in o rd er to im prove th e yield.
2 .
Use th e tip o f a paring kn ife or a u tility kn ife to score th e fles h in a cross-
hatch p a tte rn . This may be done on th e diagonal, as shown here, or using p e r p endicular cuts to produce cubes. The tip o f th e k n ife should n ot cut through th e skin.
3.
Turn th e m ango h a lf inside out; it w ill look like a hedgehog. Slice the
cubes aw ay fro m the skin now, or p re s e n t th e fru it as is on a fru it p late.
892
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
fruit salads
Pineapples
Melons
A pineapple has a thick, spiny skin.
Melons can be peeled before or after
The flesh near the skin has “eyes” that
cutting. To make the melon more
should be completely removed before
stable as you work, cut a slice from
using the flesh in a salad or other pre
both ends. You may remove the entire
sentations. Slice away the pineapple
rind before halving the melon and
top with a chef’s knife, and cut a slice
removing the seeds to streamline pro
from the base of the pineapple.
duction of fruit plates and salads. Or
Use a chef’s knife to peel the
you may prefer to leave the rind on.
pineapple. Make the cuts deep enough to remove the eyes but not
1 .
so deep that a great deal of edible
b o tto m o ff o f the melon, cut th e rind
A fte r c u ttin g th e to p and the
flesh is removed. For even slices or
away. Use a u tility or c h e fs kn ife to
to make neat dice or cubes, slice the
fo llo w th e curve o f th e melon.
pineapple vertically at the desired thickness until you reach the core
2.
on the first side. Turn the pineapple,
out th e seeds. Be c a re fu l not to gouge
and make slices from the opposite
th e fles h o f th e fru it. The m elon can
side as well as from both ends. Cut
now be m ade into melon balls, cut into
the slices into neat julienne, baton-
slices, or cut into cubes or diced.
net, or dice as desired.
3.
Cut the melon in h alf and scoop
Scoop m elon balls o ut o f the
cleaned melon h a lf using a parisienne scoop.
ch a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
893
H e a r t ie r t h a n
green
s a l a d s
, salads
in
t h is
categ o r y
c o n t a in
in g r e d ie n t s
l ik e
p r o t e in s
,
G R A IN S , A N D O T H E R N U T R IE N T - D E N S E FO O D S T H A T W O U L D M A K E T H E M A M A IN M E N U IT E M , SO T H E Y C A N BE P R E S E N T E D A S A F U L L M E A L F O R L U N C H O R D I N N E R . W l T H
THE EX C E P TIO N OF CO M PO SED
S A L A D S , T H E S E T Y P E S O F S A L A D S A R E B E S T P R E P A R E D A H E A D , S O T H E Y H A V E S O M E T I M E TO A L L O W T H E F L A V O R S TO F U L L Y M A R R Y .
warm, vegetable and composed salads WARM SALADS Warm salad, known in French as salade tiede, is made by tossing the salad ingredients in a warm dressing, working over medium-to-low heat. The salad should be just warmed through. Another approach is to use a chilled crisp salad as the bed fo r hot main items such as grilled meat or fish.
VEGETABLE SALADS Prepare vegetables fo r this type of salad as required by the specific recipe. Some are sim ply rinsed and trimmed. Others need to be peeled, seeded, and cut into the appropriate shape. Some vegetables require an initial blanching to set colors and textures, while others must be fully cooked. If the salad is to be served raw, combine the prepared vegetable or vegetables with a vinaigrette or other dressing and allow them to rest long enough fo r the flavors to marry. When the vegetable or vegetables are partially or fully cooked, there are two methods for applying the dressing. In the firs t method, simply drain the vegetables and combine them with the dressing while they are still warm, for faster flavor absorption. This works well for root vegetables such as carrots, beets, and parsnips, as well as leeks, onions, and potatoes. Some vegetables, especially green vegetables like broccoli or green beans, may dis color if they are combined with an acid in advance; in th at case, refresh the vegetables before adding the dressing at service. Always be sure to thoroughly drain and blot dry the vegetables to avoid watering down the dressing.
POTATO SALADS Potatoes must be cooked completely but not overcooked. High-moisture potatoes hold their shape a fte r cooking b etter than low-moisture potatoes do.
894
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
potato salads enjoyed around the world are often dressed with vinaigrette. In some tra ditional European-style recipes, the dressing may be based on bacon fat, olive oil, stock, or a combination of these ingredients. The dressing may actually be brought to a simmer before the potatoes are added for the best finished flavor. Potatoes should be dressed before they completely cool fo r b etter absorption of the flavors in the dressing.
PASTA AND GRAIN SALADS Grains and pastas fo r salads should be fully cooked. However, care should be taken to avoid overcooking because cooked grains and pasta will still be able to absorb some of the liquid in the dressing and can quickly become soggy. If a pasta or grain salad is held fo r later service, be especially careful to check for sea soning before it is served. These salads have a tendency to go fla t as they sit. Salt and pepper are im portant seasonings, o f course, but others, such as vinegars, herbs, and citrus juices, can give a brighter flavor.
LEGUME SALADS Dried beans should be cooked until they are tender to the bite if serving at room tem perature. If beans are to be served chilled, they should be slightly overcooked to ensure a creamy texture. The center should be soft and creamy, and it is even possible th at the skins may break open slightly. If a salad is made of several kinds of dried beans, it is important th at beans with d ifferen t cooking times be cooked separately to the correct doneness be fore combining them. Unlike grains and pastas, which might become too soft as they sit in a dressing, beans will not soften any further. In fact, the acid in salad dressings will make the beans become tougher, even if they are fully cooked. Bean salads, therefore, should not be dressed and allowed to rest fo r extended periods. If the salad is used within four hours of preparation,
warm, vegetable, and composed salads
The classic American potato salad is a creamy salad, dressed with mayonnaise. Other
however, there is little significant texture change.
COMPOSED SALADS Composed salads contain carefully arranged items on a plate, rather than components tossed together. They are usually main-course salads or appetizers, rather than an accom paniment. Although there are no specific rules governing the requirements for a composed salad, keep the following principles in mind: »
Consider how well each of the elements combines with the others. Contrasting flavors are intriguing. Conflicting flavors are a disaster.
»
Repetition of a color or flavor can be successful if it contributes to the overall dish. But generally, too much of a good thing is simply too much.
»
Each elem ent of the dish should be so perfectly prepared th at it could easily stand on its own. However, each part should be enhanced in combination with the others.
»
Components should be arranged in such a way th a t the textures and colors o f the foods are most attractive to the eye.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
895
Red Wine V inaigrette Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
Chipotle-Sherry V inaigrette Makes 36 f l oz/i.o8 L
2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard (for emulsification; optional)
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sherry vinegar
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lime juice
Salt, as needed
5 chipotles in adobo sauce, minced
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 shallots, minced
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar
2 garlic cloves, minced
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil or canola oil
Salt, as needed
3 tb sp /9 g minced herbs such as chives, parsley, oregano, basil, or tarragon (optional)
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the vinegar, mustard, if using, shallots, salt, pepper, and sugar. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 tb sp /2 8 g piloncillo or brown sugar 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 1 o z/2 8 g minced Fines Herbes (page 369)
2 . Stir in the herbs, if using, and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and sugar, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. W hite W ine V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute white wine vinegar fo r the red wine vinegar. M u sta rd -H e rb V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute white wine vinegar fo r the red wine vinegar, do not om it the mustard, and add an additional 1 ts p /5 mL mustard, V2tsp /1 g onion powder, and a pinch o f garlic powder. Use only 2 tb s p / 6 g mixed herbs and add 2 tbsp /6 g chopped parsley. Roasted G arlic and M u sta rd V in a ig re tte : Add 4 o z/1 1 3 g pureed roasted garlic. Lem on-G arlic V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute 6 f l o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice fo r the vinegar. Add 2 tsp /6 g garlic paste, and 1 tsp /1 g minced rosemary. Lem on-Parsley V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute 6 fI oz/1 80 mL lemon juice fo r the vinegar. Add Z2 to 3/4 o z /1 4 to 21 g chopped parsley.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
1 . Combine the vinegar, lime juice, chipotles, shallots, garlic, salt, pepper, and sugar. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 . Stir in the herbs and adjust seasoning with salt, pep per, and sugar, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
J . Stir in the tarragon and maple syrup. Adjust season ing with salt and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Makes 44 fl oz/1.32 L 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL red wine, such as Zinfandel or M erlot 4 shallots, minced
Balsamic Vinaigrette Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
4 o z/1 1 3 g roasted and chopped almonds Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL almond oil 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil 5 'A o z/1 4 9 g chopped dried figs Juice of 2 lemons
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar 2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard (optional) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed V 2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar (optional) 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
1 . Combine the vinegar, wine, shallots, almonds, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
2 . Stir in the figs and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
3 tb s p /9 g minced herbs, such as chives, parsley, oregano, basil, or tarragon (optional)
1 . Combine the vinegars, mustard, if using, salt, pep
salad dressing and salad recipes
Almond-Fig V inaigrette
per, and sugar, if using, in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and sugar, if nec essary. Mix in the herbs, if using.
Apple Cider V inaigrette
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. NOTE: The amount of sugar added to the vinaigrette will depend on the quality o f the balsamic vinegar used.
Makes 54 fl oz/1.62 L 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL apple cider 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL apple cider vinegar 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cut into brunoise 2 t s p /6 g s a lt !A ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper 24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil 2 tb sp /6 g minced tarragon 1 tb s p /1 5 mL maple syrup
1 . In a small saucepan, simmer the cider until it is re duced to 6 fl oz/i8o mL. Allow to cool.
2 . Combine the cider reduction, vinegar, apple, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
897
Curry V inaigrette Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 24 fI o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil
Honey-Poppy SeedCitrus Dressing Makes 36 fl o z/i.08 L
3 tb sp /19 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) 24 f I oz plus 2 ts p /7 3 0 mL olive oil 1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot V 2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic V i o z/1 4 g minced ginger
3 flo z /9 0 m L ketchup 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL red wine vinegar
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced lemongrass (tender center portion only)
2 fl o z/6 0 mL orange juice
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL cider vinegar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL grapefruit juice
Lemon juice, as needed
4 ts p /2 8 g honey
Honey, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g dry mustard
Salt, as needed
I V 2 ts p /4 g poppy seeds
Ground black pepper, as needed
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Heat 3 fl oz/go mL of the oil in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add the curry powder, shallots, gar lic, ginger, and lemongrass. Continue to heat until
1 . Heat 2 tsp/10 mL of the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat and sweat the shallots until trans
the shallots are translucent. Do not brown. Remove
lucent. Add the ketchup, vinegar, juices, honey, mus
from the heat, let cool, and combine with the re
tard, and poppy seeds. Bring to a simmer and cook
maining oil.
over low heat until bubbly and smooth, 1 minute.
2 . Combine the vinegar with the lemon juice, honey, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
3 . Adjust seasoning with lemon juice, honey, salt, and pepper, if necessary.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Remove from the heat and cool the mixture to room temperature.
2 . Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and gradu ally whisk in the remaining oil. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Guava-Curry V inaigrette
Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL
Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
10 medium plum tomatoes
4 o z/1 1 3 g guava paste
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL olive oil
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL red wine vinegar
2 tb s p /1 3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
Salt, as needed
Juice of 4 limes
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 Scotch bonnet, seeded, minced
1 tb sp /B g thyme
Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade
Ground black pepper, as needed
Hot sauce, as needed
2 4 f I o z/7 2 0 mL olive oil 3 tb sp /9 g roughly chopped cilantro
1 . Wash and core the tomatoes and lightly coat them with some of the oil. Char them over an open flame. Peel, puree, and strain the tomatoes.
2 . Combine the vinegar, tomato puree, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the remaining oil.
3 . Stir in the herbs and hot sauce. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
1 . Combine the guava paste, vinegar, and curry pow der in a small saucepan and warm slightly until the guava paste is melted. Allow the mixture to cool.
2 . Combine the guava mixture with the lime juice, Scotch bonnet, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually
salad dressing and salad recipes
Fire-Roasted Tomato V inaigrette
whisk in the oil.
3 . Stir in the cilantro and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
899
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL balsamic vinegar
Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar Salad Dressing
2 fl o z/6 0 mL water
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
Truffle V inaigrette Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL red wine vinegar
2 ts p /1 0 mL Dijon mustard
24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL peanut oil
2 shallots, minced
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL malt vinegar
9 fl o z/2 7 0 mL mild olive oil
2 o z/5 7 g dark brown sugar
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 tb sp /6 g chopped tarragon
3 tb s p /4 5 mL tru ffle oil
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
2 ts p /1 0 g sugar
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
2 t s p /6 g s a lt
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
V 2 tsp /1 g ground black pepper
Salt, as needed
1 black or white tru ffle, chopped (optional)
1 . Mix together the vinegars, water, mustard, and shallots.
2 . Whisk in the oils gradually. 3 . Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Add the truffles just before serving if desired.
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the oil, vinegar, sugar, tarragon, chives, parsley, and garlic and blend well.
2 . Refrigerate the dressing to age for 24 hours before using. The herb flavors will infuse and distribute through the dressing for extra flavor.
3 . Stir to thoroughly recombine the ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or
Herb and T ru ffle V in a ig re tte : Omit the mustard and add chopped parsley, marjoram, and m int to taste.
900
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
refrigerate for later service.
Makes 32 fl 02/960 ml 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL red wine vinegar
Green Goddess Dressing Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
4 o z/1 1 3 g Pesto (page 299) 2 o z/5 7 g spinach Salt, as needed 2 o z /5 7 g watercress Ground black pepper, as needed lt b s p / 3 g parsley 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL olive or vegetable oil 1 tb s p /3 g tarragon
1 . Combine the vinegar, pesto, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
1 garlic clove, mashed to a paste 2 f I o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
V inaigrette Gourmande Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL sherry vinegar 3 fl o z/9 0 mL lemon juice Salt, as needed
Lemon juice, as needed
1 . Puree the spinach, watercress, parsley, tarragon, and garlic with the oil until smooth in a food processor or blender. Combine the puree with the mayonnaise
salad dressing and salad recipes
Pesto V inaigrette
and mustard.
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Ground black pepper, as needed 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL vegetable oil V i o z/1 4 g minced chervil V 2 o z/1 4 g minced tarragon
1 . Combine the vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
2 . Stir in the chervil and tarragon and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. W alnut Oil and Red W ine V in a ig re tte : S ubstitute red wine vinegar fo r the sherry vinegar, walnut oil fo r the vegetable oil, and parsley and chives fo r the chervil and tarragon.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
901
Catalina French Dressing Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce. 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. Allow the dressing to come to room temperature before using.
3'A f I o z/1 0 5 mL pasteurized eggs 4 o z /1 13 g dark brown sugar 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL apple cider vinegar
Caesar-Style Dressing
2 ts p /1 0 mL Dijon mustard
Makes 24 fl 0ZI720 mL
'/t ts p /0.50 g garlic powder 3 o z/8 5 g anchovy fillets 'A ts p /0.50 g onion powder V 2 o z/1 4 g dry mustard or 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard Pinch ground allspice 2 ts p /6 g garlic paste Salt, as needed 2 to 3 tb sp /3 0 to 45 mL lemon juice, or as needed Ground white pepper, as needed 2 tb sp /3 0 mL pasteurized egg yolks 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Paprika Oil (page 9 0 7) 2 o z/5 7 g grated Parmesan
1 . Combine the eggs, sugar, vinegar, mustard, garlic
Salt, as needed
powder, onion powder, allspice, salt, and pepper in a
Ground black pepper, as needed
medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil.
18 fl o z/5 4 0 mL olive oil
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
Hot sauce, as needed
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. 1 . Blend the anchovies, mustard, and garlic to form a paste. Add some of the lemon juice, the egg yolks,
Peanut Dressing Makes 52 fl oz/1.56 L
cheese, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil.
2 . Add the rest of the lemon juice and hot sauce and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic 2 tb sp /6 g chopped tarragon 3 tb sp /9 g minced chives 3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley 4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar 12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL malt vinegar 4 o z /1 13 g peanut butter 24 fl o z/7 2 0 mL peanut oil 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL salad oil Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Hot sauce, as needed
1 . Combine the garlic, tarragon, chives, parsley, sugar, vinegar, and peanut butter in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the oils.
902
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Mayonnaise
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
12 o z/3 4 0 g peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced cucumber 2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
2
V 2 f I o z/7 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks
2 tb s p /3 0 mL water 2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine vinegar
3 tb s p /9 g minced dill
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard or 2 ts p /1 0 mL prepared mustard
1 tb sp /1 5 g sugar, or as needed
'/2 ts p /2 .5 0 g sugar
Salt, as needed
2 4 fI o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil
Ground white pepper, as needed
Salt, as needed
Hot sauce, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
1 . Puree the cucumber in a food processor until smooth.
2 . Transfer the puree to a bowl and add the lemon juice, sour cream, dill, and sugar. Blend until just incorporated.
3 . Add the salt, pepper, and hot sauce and adjust sea soning with sugar, if necessary.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
1 . Combine the yolks, water, vinegar, mustard, and sugar in a bowl. Mix well with a balloon whisk until the mixture is slightly foamy.
2.. Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly beating with the whisk, until the oil is incorporated and the mayonnaise is smooth and thick.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Cucumber Dressing
3 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. 4 . Use immediately or refrigerate in a clean container for later service. NOTE: Olive oil or mild peanut oil may be substituted fo r all or some o f the vegetable oil.
Anchovy-C aper Mayonnaise: To the prepared mayonnaise, add 3 f I o z/9 0 m L lemon juice, 1 tb sp /1 5 m l Dijon mustard, 3/4 0z/21 g minced shallot, 1 oz/2 8 g chopped parsley, 1 o z/2 8 g m in ce d drained nonpareil capers, and 1 o z/2 8 g minced anchovy fille ts . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. T artar Sauce: To 2 4 f l oz/720 mL prepared mayonnaise, add 12 oz/340 g drained sweet pickle relish, 2 oz/57g minced drained capers, and 3 oz/85 gsm all-dice HardCooked Eggs (page 866 ). Season w ith W orcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper. Green Mayonnaise: Puree 5 oz/142 g spinach leaves and 4 tb sp /1 2 g each chopped parsley, tarragon, chives, and d ill in a blender. Mix the puree w ith the prepared mayonnaise and 2 f l oz/6 0 mL lemon juice. Adjust the consistency w ith water, if necessary. Adjust seasoning w ith salt and pepper.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
903
A
io Ii
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL
Blue Cheese Dressing Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
2 V i f I o z/7 5 mL pasteurized egg yolks
4 o z/1 1 3 g crumbled blue cheese
1 tb sp /1 5 mL water
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
2 V i ts p /7.50 g garlic paste
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL buttermilk
Salt, as needed
3 f I o z/9 0 m L m ilk
Cayenne, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
Lemon juice, as needed
1 o z/2 8 g pureed onion 2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
1 . Combine the yolks, water, and garlic in a bowl. Mix well with a balloon whisk until the mixture is slight ly foamy.
2 . Gradually add the oil in a thin stream, constantly
Worcestershire sauce, as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
beating with the whisk, until the oil is incorporated and the aioli is smooth and thick.
3 . Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice. 4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
1 . Combine the cheese, mayonnaise, sour cream, but termilk, milk, lemon juice, onions, and garlic in a medium bowl and mix until smooth.
2 . Add Worcestershire sauce, salt, and pepper and ad just seasoning with lemon juice, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL 28 fl o z/8 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL milk or buttermilk 3 to 4 o z/8 5 to 113 g grated Parmesan, or as needed 2 o z/5 7 g anchovy paste 1 o z/2 8 g garlic paste 2 tb s p /1 2 g coarsely ground black pepper Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine all the ingredients and mix well.
2 . Adjust seasoning with Parmesan, salt, and pepper, if necessary.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
904
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL
Ranch-Style Dressing Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL sour cream 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
8 o z/2 2 7 g chopped carrot 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL buttermilk 4 oz/1 IB g chopped onion 2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine vinegar 4 o z /1 13 g chopped celery 3 tb s p /4 5 mL Worcestershire sauce 1 orange, peeled and seeded 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice 4 ts p /1 2 g minced ginger 1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard 3 tb sp /4 5 mL light soy sauce 1 tb sp /9 g minced shallot 2Vz tb sp /3 7.50 mL ketchup 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley 2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives 2 ts p /1 0 g sugar 2 ts p /6 g garlic paste 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 1 ts p /2 g celery seed 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil Salt, as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Puree the carrots, onions, celery, orange, and ginger in a blender or food processor. Transfer to a medium bowl.
2 . Whisk in the remaining ingredients and adjust sea soning with salt, if necessary.
1 . Combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly in a
salad dressing and salad recipes
Japanese Salad Dressing
medium bowl.
2 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Chapter 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
905
Thousand Island Dressing Makes 36 fl oz/i.o8 L
Basil Oil Makes 16 fl
0 Z /4 8 0
mL
3 o z/8 5 g basil leaves 1 o z/2 8 g parsley leaves
24 f I o z/7 2 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL olive oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL chili sauce 2 fl o z/6 0 mL ketchup r
/2
ts p /7.50 mL Worcestershire sauce
V / 2 ts p /7.50 mL hot sauce 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 2 'A ts p /6 .7 5 g minced garlic
1 . In a small sauce pot, blanch the basil and parsley in boiling salted water for 20 seconds. Remove from the water, shock in an ice water bath, and drain well. Blot the herbs dry on paper towels.
2. . Combine the blanched herbs with half of the oil in a blender and puree until smooth. With the blender
3 o z/8 5 g drained sweet pickle relish
running, add the remaining oil. Let stand 15 to 30
2 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), finely chopped
minutes.
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
3 . If desired, strain the basil oil through cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a clean bottle or other container. (This will take approximately 15 minutes to slowly
1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice, or as needed
run through a coffee filter, but the result is a clear oil.)
1 . Combine the mayonnaise, chili sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire, hot sauce, onions, garlic, relish, and eggs in a medium bowl and mix well.
2 . Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. 3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
4 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed. NOTE: Substitute other herbs such as chives, tarragon, or chervil fo r the basil. Keep the parsley in all cases to give the oil a bright green color.
Paprika Oil
Makes 18 fl oz/540 mL
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL olive oil
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
6 o z/1 7 0 g sweet paprika
3 oranges, zest only, cut into strips
1 . Combine the oil and paprika in a small saucepan, 1 . Combine the oils in a saucepan and heat to 140°F/6o°C. Be extremely careful not to overheat the oil. Remove from the heat and add the zest.
2 . Cool the oil to room temperature, refrigerate, and infuse overnight.
warm to 120°F/49°C, remove from the heat, and steep for 15 to 30 minutes.
2 . Strain the oil through cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a clean bottle or other container.
3 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
3 . Strain the oil into a clean bottle or other container. 4 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
Mixed Green Salad Makes 10 servings
Green Onion Oil Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g mixed greens such as romaine, Bibb, Boston, red leaf, and green leaf
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil
3 to 5 fl o z/9 0 to 150 mL White Wine Vinaigrette (page 896)
4 o z /1 1 3 g thinly sliced green onions
Salt, as needed
salad dressing and salad recipes
Orange Oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the oil and green onions in a small sauce pan and heat until the onions begin to sizzle. Re move from the heat and allow the mixture to cool.
2 . Puree in a blender and let stand 15 to 30 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth or a coffee filter into a clean bottle or other container.
3 . Close the bottle and refrigerate. Use as needed.
1 . Rinse, trim, and dry the greens and tear or cut them into bite-size pieces. Mix the greens and keep them well chilled until needed for service.
2 . For each serving, place 2V2 oz/71 g of the lettuce in a bowl.
3 . Add 1V2 tsp to 1 tbsp/7.50 to 15 mL of the vinaigrette to the leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the salad gently to coat the leaves lightly and evenly.
4 . Mound the salad on a chilled salad plate and garnish as desired. Serve immediately. NOTE: When dressing mixed greens with a vinaigrette that contains em ulsifiers or w ith a creamy-style dressing, increase the amount to 8 f I oz/2 40 mL fo r 10 servings (IV 2tbsp /2 2.50 mL per serving).
ch a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
907
Thai Table Salad
Caesar Salad
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
10 red leaf lettuce leaves
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g romaine lettuce
1 English cucumber, skin on, cut into julienne
DRESSING
6 o z/1 7 0 g bean sprouts
2 ts p /6 g garlic paste
2 0 mint sprigs
5 anchovy fillets
30 Thai basil sprigs
Salt, as needed
30 cilantro sprigs
Ground black pepper, as needed
30 rau ram leaves
3 V i f 1o z/1 0 5 mL pasteurized eggs (whole or yolks)
10 saw leaf herb leaves
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed 5 flo z /1 5 0 m L o liv e o il
Arrange the lettuce on a platter. Top with the cu cumbers and bean sprouts. Garnish with the herbs. Serve immediately.
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
5 o z/1 4 2 g grated Parmesan, or as needed 15 o z /4 2 5 g Garlic-Flavored Croutons (page 563)
Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad Makes 10 servings
1 . Separate the romaine into leaves. Clean and dry them thoroughly. Tear or cut them into pieces, if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2 . For each serving, mash about Vs tsp/o.6o g garlic paste, half an anchovy fillet, salt, and pepper into
1 2 3/ t
o z/ 3
6 1 g celery, cut into julienne
' / t t s p / l g salt
a paste in a wooden salad bowl. Add 2 tsp/io mL egg and l tsp/5 mL lemon juice. Blend well. Add 1 tbsp/15 mL of each oil, and whisk to form a thick
'/> o z/1 4 g turbinado sugar V* o z/7 g light soy sauce 2 ts p /1 0 mL dark sesame oil 1 ts p /3 g minced ginger 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic V* o z/21 g minced green onion 8 o z/2 2 7 g smoked bean curd, cut into julienne
1 . Spread the celery into a thin layer in a perforated hotel pan. Steam for l minute, then cool to room temperature.
2 . Combine the salt, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, gin ger, garlic, and green onions. Add the celery and bean curd and toss to coat.
3 . Serve immediately. NOTE: Be sure to cut the celery and bean curd uniformly.
908
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
dressing. Add 1 to 2 tbsp/10 g grated Parmesan and 3 oz/85 g of the romaine. Toss until coated.
3 . Serve immediately on a chilled plate. Garnish with 1V2 oz/43 g croutons. NOTES: This salad is tradition ally prepared tableside. It is im portant to clean and sanitize the wooden salad bowls carefully a fte r each use. The more tradition al raw or coddled egg is replaced with a pasteurized egg here, to help ensure the safety o f the guest. Caesar Salad may also be made w ith Caesar-Style Dressing (page 902).
Makes 8 servings
Chef's Salad Makes 10 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g trimmed, washed, and dried mixed greens 20 roast turkey slices, rolled tightly 20 salami slices, rolled tightly
1 head iceberg lettuce
20 ham slices, rolled tightly
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mLThousand Island Dressing (page 906)
5 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), cut into wedges
6 o z/1 7 0 g cherry tomatoes, halved
10 o z/2 8 4 g Cheddar, cut into julienne
6 o z/1 7 0 g bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
10 o z /2 8 4 g Gruyere, cut into julienne 10 tomato wedges
1 . Clean and cut the head of lettuce into 8 wedges.
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced cucumber
2 . Place each lettuce wedge on a chilled plate and top
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced carrot
with 2 fl oz/6o mL of the dressing. Garnish each por tion with % oz/21 g each of the tomatoes and bacon.
3 . Serve immediately.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Red or White Wine Vinaigrette (page 896) 2 tb s p /6 g minced chives
I . Place the greens in a bowl or arrange them on a salad platter.
2 .. Arrange the meats, eggs, cheeses, and vegetables on
salad dressing and salad recipes
Wedge o f Iceberg with Thousand Island Dressing
the lettuce.
3 . Drizzle with the vinaigrette, top with chives, and serve immediately.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
909
Greek Salad Makes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g lettuce, such as romaine or green leaf, cut crosswise 30 tomato wedges 10 o z/2 8 4 g cucumber, sliced or diced 10 o z/2 8 4 g yellow pepper, julienne 4 o z/1 1 3 g red onion, sliced into rings
Endive Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives) Makes 10 servings
5 o z/1 4 2 g crumbled feta 20 to 30 pitted black olives (about 3 o z/8 5 g) 20 to 30 pitted green olives (about 3 o z/8 5 g) 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Lemon-Parsley Vinaigrette (page 896)
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice 2 fl o z/6 0 mL hazelnut oil V / 2 ts p /1 .50 g chopped tarragon Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . For each serving, place 1V2 oz/43 g lettuce in a bowl or arrange on a salad plate.
2 . Arrange 3 tomato wedges, 1 oz/28 g cucumbers, 1 oz/28 g yello peppers, V4 oz/7 g onions, V2 oz/14 g
2 lb /9 0 7 g Belgian endive 2V2 oz/71 g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped 4 o z /1 1 3 g crumbled Roquefort
feta, and 4 to 6 olives on top of the lettuce.
3 . Drizzle with 2 tbsp/30 mL of the vinaigrette and serve immediately.
1 . Whisk together the lemon juice, oil, and tarragon in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Let dress ing stand for 30 minutes.
NOTE: The ingredients may be combined and tossed w ith the vinaigrette and then placed in a bowl or on a plate. May be served w ith s tu ffe d grape leaves.
2 . Separate the endive into leaves, wash thoroughly, and pat dry. Transfer to a large salad bowl.
3 . Add the walnuts and cheese. Add the dressing and toss until the endive is thoroughly coated. Serve immediately.
910
BRE AKF AS T AND GARDE M A N G E R
Taco Salad
M akes 10 servings
M akes 10 servings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL vegetable oil
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg ground beef
2 f I o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar
12 f I o z/3 6 0 mL Taco Sauce (page 914), or as needed
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
2 lb /9 0 7 g iceberg lettuce chiffonade
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Dijon mustard
10 corn or flour tortillas (12-inch diameter), shaped into bowls and fried
I/2 o z/1 4 g chopped parsley Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 2 lb /9 0 7 g shredded romaine lettuce 1 lb /4 5 4 g cubed roasted or smoked turkey 6 o z/1 70 g diced avocado
12 o z/3 4 0 g drained cooked pinto beans 12 o z/3 4 0 g drained cooked black beans 10 o z/2 8 4 g diced tomatoes 2 o z/5 7 g diced red onion 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL sour cream 10 o z/2 8 4 g shredded Cheddar or Monterey Jack
3 o z/8 5 g celery, sliced on the bias 20 pitted black olives 2 o z/5 7 g green onions, sliced on the bias 16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Pico de Gallo (page 953) 10 o z/2 8 4 g crumbled blue cheese 10 bacon strips, cooked crisp and crumbled
1 . Brown the beef in a large sautoir or small rondeau over medium heat, stirring and breaking it up until
1 . Blend the oil, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, and
fully cooked and no longer pink, 12 to 15 minutes.
parsley thoroughly in a large bowl. Season with salt
Remove the beef from the pan with a slotted spoon,
and pepper.
drain well, and combine with the taco sauce. The
2 . Add the lettuce and toss until combined. Divide the lettuce among bowls or plates.
3 . Arrange the turkey, avocado, celery, and green on
salad dressing and salad recipes
Cobb Salad
mixture should hold together and be moist.
2 . Lay a bed of lettuce in the bottom of each tortilla bowl. Layer with beans, the beef and sauce mixture,
ions on the lettuce. Drizzle the dressing remaining
tomatoes, onions, sour cream, cheese, olives, and
in the bowl over the salad. Top with cheese and ba
salsa. Serve immediately.
con. Serve at once.
ch a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
913
Taco Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/g6o mL 2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 2 'A o z/71 g small-dice onions 2
V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g minced garlic
Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette Makes 10 servings
4 ts p /8 g dried oregano
8 o z/2 2 7 g diced bacon
V A oz/B5 g ground cumin
l ' A o z/4 3 g minced shallot
3/ t o z/21 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL tomato puree
4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
21 fl o z/6 3 0 mL Chicken Stock (page 263)
3 f I o z/9 0 mL cider vinegar
Salt, as needed
5 to 6 f I o z/1 5 0 to 180 mL vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, as needed
Salt, as needed
Cornstarch slurry (see page 247), as needed
Cracked black peppercorns, as needed 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g spinach, washed and dried
Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until the
5 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), cut into small dice
onions are brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sliced mushrooms
Add the garlic and continue to saute another 1 to 2
3 o z/8 5 g thinly sliced red onions
minutes. Add the oregano, cumin, and chili powder
4 o z /1 1 3 g Croutons (page 965)
and cook until aromatic. Add the tomato puree and bring to a simmer. Cook,
1 . To make the vinaigrette, render the bacon in a medi
stirring frequently, until the mixture has reduced to
um sautoir over medium-low heat. When the bacon
a nappe consistency, 10 to 12 minutes.
is crisp, remove it from the pan, drain, and reserve.
Add the stock and simmer until the sauce is well flavored, 15 to 20 minutes.
2.. Add the shallots and garlic to the bacon fat and sweat until soft. Blend in the sugar. Remove the pan
Season with salt and pepper. Puree the sauce. Strain,
from the heat. Whisk in the vinegar and oil. Season
if desired. If necessary, thicken it with cornstarch
with salt and pepper.
slurry. The sauce is ready to use now, or may be rap idly cooled and refrigerated for later service.
3 . Toss the spinach with the eggs, mushrooms, onions, croutons, and reserved bacon. Add the warm vinai grette, toss once, and serve immediately.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts
M akes 10 servings 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-size red beets 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium-size golden beets
4 . Combine the frisee, arugula, and mesclun and reserve.
5 . Cut each baguette slice in half lengthwise. Brush each slice with olive oil, place on a sheet pan, and bake in a 400°F/204°C oven until golden brown on the first side, about 2V2 minutes. Turn the croutons over to brown the other side, about 2V2 minutes more. 6 . Spread 1 oz/28 g cheese on one side of each crouton. Season with salt and pepper.
7 . For each portion, place 2V2 oz/71 g of the mushroom
Salt, as needed
salad in the center of the plate. Toss 1 oz/28 g of the
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
greens with 1 tsp/5 mL vinaigrette and place on top
Ground black pepper, as needed
of the mushrooms. Place 2 oz/57 g of beets around
2 f lo z /6 0 mL olive oil 5 o z/1 4 2 g cremini mushrooms, sliced
the greens and sprinkle with V2 oz/14 g walnuts. Place 3 croutons on the greens. Drizzle a few drops of truffle oil around the greens and serve.
5 o z/1 4 2 g white mushrooms, sliced 11 o z/3 1 2 g assorted wild mushrooms, sliced 10 fI o z/3 0 0 mL Herb and Truffle Vinaigrette (page 900) 4 o z/1 1 3 g frisee hearts, separated into small pieces 2 o z/5 7 g baby arugula 4 o z/1 1 3 g mesclun greens
Sherried Watercress and Apple Salad
salad dressing and salad recipes
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts
M akes 10 servings
15 baguette slices, cut on the bias V* in /6 mm thick
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL vegetable oil
1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g Robiola, soft
3 f I o z/9 0 mL sherry vinegar
5 o z/1 4 2 g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot
Truffle oil, as needed
1 ts p /5 g brown sugar Salt, as needed
1 . Scrub the beets well and remove the tops. Place the beets in separate pots with enough cold water to cov er by about 2 in/5 cm - Add salt and cook until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Drain the beets and cool.
2 . Peel the beets with the back of a paring knife. Cut into medium dice. Marinate them in the extra-virgin olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and reserve.
Ground black pepper, as needed 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g watercress, cleaned and stemmed 10 o z/2 8 4 g Golden Delicious apple, peeled, cut into julienne 3 o z/8 5 g minced celery 2 o z/5 7 g toasted walnuts, chopped
3 . Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Pour in 2 tbsp/30 mL olive oil. Add the cremini and white mushrooms, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Saute them until golden brown and tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the mushrooms and cool in a half hotel pan. Repeat with the wild mushrooms and add
1 . Combine the oil, vinegar, shallots, sugar, and salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisk until combined.
2 .. Add the watercress, apples, and celery to the vinai grette and toss until evenly coated.
3 . Garnish with the walnuts and serve immediately.
to the other mushrooms. Toss the mushrooms with 7V2 fl oz/225 mL of the vinaigrette and reserve.
C hapter 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
917
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad Makes 10 servings
V/ 2 medium avocados, sliced 3 grapefruits, cut into supremes 1 lb /4 5 4 g baby spinach 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Balsamic Vinaigrette (page 897) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Ceieriac and Tart Apple Salad Makes 10 servings
DRESSING 3 fl o z/9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 2 fl o z/6 0 mL creme fratche or sour cream 2 fl o z/6 0 mL Dijon mustard 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice, plus more as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
2 fl o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
1 . For each serving, combine 1 V4 oz/35 g avocado with 1 V2
oz/43 g grapefruit segments (about 3).
2 . Toss 1V2 oz/43 g of the spinach with 1 tbsp/15 mL of
1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g ceieriac 12 o z/3 4 0 g medium Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced
the vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Arrange the spinach on a chilled plate. Top it with the avocado and grapefruit. Serve immediately.
I . To make the dressing, combine the mayonnaise, creme fraiche, mustard, and lemon juice and blend well. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the
Waldorf Salad Makes 10 servings 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g medium-dice peeled apples 6 o z/1 7 0 g raw and peeled or blanched small-dice celery
2 fl oz/6o mL of lemon juice. Peel and cut the ceie riac into julienne.
3 . Parcook the ceieriac for about 2 minutes, drain, shock in an ice water bath, and drain again. (Ensure that the ceieriac is very dry.)
4 . Combine the apples and ceieriac and toss with the dressing. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and
3 fl o z/9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 o z/2 8 4 g lettuce leaves 2 o z/5 7 g coarsely chopped walnuts, lightly toasted
1 . Combine the apples, celery, and mayonnaise in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until needed.
2 . Serve the mixture on a bed of lettuce. Garnish with walnuts.
BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER
lemon juice.
5 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Makes
10
servings
Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto Makes
10
servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g cantaloupe balls or slices 1 lb /4 5 4 g honeydew balls or slices
2 or 3 chayotes, peeled, seeded, cut into julienne 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced prosciutto 8 o z/2 2 7 g ji'cama, cut into julienne 2 tb s p /3 0 mL aged balsamic vinegar 8 o z/2 2 7 g carrots, cut into julienne Cracked black peppercorns, as needed 5 oranges, cut into supremes, juice reserved I V 2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced on a bias
1 . Arrange the melons and prosciutto on chilled plates.
3 fl o z/9 0 mL lime juice
2 . Drizzle with the vinegar and garnish with the pepper.
r
3 . Serve immediately.
/2
ts p /7.50 g sugar
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 3 f I o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil V / 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro, roughly chopped 3/ t o z/21 g mint chiffonade
Onion and Cucumber Salad (Kachumber) Makes
10
salad dressing and salad recipes
Chayote Salad with Oranges (5olada de Xuxu)
servings
1 . Combine the chayote, jicama, carrots, oranges, and green onions gently in a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the lime juice, sugar, salt, pepper, and reserved orange juice in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Pour the dressing over the chayote mixture and stir to combine. Chill the salad for 30
2 lb /9 0 7 g onions, cut into medium dice 2 English cucumbers, cut into medium dice 1 lb /4 5 4 g plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into medium dice 10 Thai chiles, chopped
minutes.
3 . Toss the salad once again and serve immediately. Garnish with the cilantro and mint.
I V 4 o z/5 0 g roughly chopped cilantro leaves and stems Juice of 5 lemons Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, chiles, and cilantro. Refrigerate until needed.
2 . Ten minutes before service, add the lemon juice and season with salt.
3 . Serve immediately.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
919
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad (Mizeria Klasyczna) M akes 10 servings 3 lb /1.36 kg English cucumbers t/2
ts p /1.50 g salt
Coleslaw M akes 10 servings 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL sour cream 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 2 fl o z/6 0 mL cider vinegar 2 f I oz/6o mL dry mustard V / 2 o z/4 3 g sugar
8 f I o z/2 2 7 g sour cream
I V 2 ts p /0 .5 0 g celery seed
l ' / t o z/3 5 g chopped dill
V / 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL hot sauce
1 tb s p /1 5 mL champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g green cabbage, shredded 6 o z/1 7 0 g carrots, shredded
Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, mus 1 . Peel the cucumbers, cut in half lengthwise, seed, and
tard, sugar, celery seed, and hot sauce in a large bowl.
slice into thin half-moons. Place them in a bowl and
Mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
mix with the salt. Allow the cucumbers to rest for l
2 . Add the cabbage and carrots and toss until evenly
hour. Drain and squeeze them dry.
2 . Add the sour cream, dill, and vinegar to the cucum
coated.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
bers and mix. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Moroccan Carrot Salad M akes 10 servings 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lemon juice V 2 o z/1 4 g roughly chopped cilantro V 2 o z/1 4 g sugar 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 lb /9 0 7 g finely grated carrots 4 o z/1 1 3 g raisins, plumped and drained Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the lemon juice, cilantro, and sugar. Grad ually whisk in the oil.
2 . Toss the dressing with the carrots and raisins. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
920
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Green Papaya Salad
Makes
Makes
10
servings
10
servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g corn kernels, fresh or frozen, cooked
2 large green papayas (see Note)
1 lb /4 5 4 g ji'cama, peeled, cut into small dice
2 medium carrots
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lime juice
8 o z/2 2 7 g green cabbage chiffonade
1 tsp /1 g roughly chopped cilantro
DRESSING
Pinch cayenne
V 2 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
Salt, as needed
4 garlic cloves, minced
Ground white pepper, as needed
1 Thai chile, stem removed 3/ f o z/22.5 mL small dried shrimp
1 . Combine the corn, jicama, lime juice, cilantro, and cayenne in a bowl and toss. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
2 tb sp /3 0 mL lime juice V / 2 tb sp /21 g palm sugar Salt, as needed 3 tb s p /4 5 mL fish sauce
NOTE: This salad is best if prepared 30 minutes prior to serving. If held fo r more than 2 hours, the jicama becomes limp.
1 . Peel, halve, and seed the papayas. Grate the papayas using the large holes of a box grater or cut into juli enne using the fine die on a mandoline. Do the same
salad dressing and salad recipes
Corn and Ji'cama Salad
with the carrots. Combine the grated papayas and
Jicama Salad Makes
10
servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g ji'cama, peeled, cut into julienne
carrots and the cabbage in a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the cilantro, garlic, Thai chile, shrimp, lime juice, sugar, and salt in a blender and puree.
3 . Toss the dressing with the vegetables, while pound ing, and add the fish sauce. Adjust seasoning with
2 o z/5 7 g Granny Smith apples, peeled, cut into julienne
salt. The salad is ready to serve immediately, or may be refrigerated for later use.
2 o z/5 7 g red pepper, cut into julienne 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL yogurt, drained well in cheesecloth
NOTE: The papaya must be green and hard fo r this preparation. Garnish with chopped, toasted peanuts if
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
desired.
3/ t ts p /1.50 g ground cumin Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the jicama, apple, and red pepper in a me dium bowl.
2 . Mix together the yogurt, lemon juice, and cumin in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over the jicama mixture and toss to combine.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
921
Cucumber and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo) M akes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g cucumbers, peeled and seeded, cut into julienne
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae) M akes 10 servings 1 lb /4 5 4 g peeled daikon 1 lb /4 5 4 g English cucumbers, sliced into half-moons Ve in /3 mm thick 1 ts p /3 g s a lt
4o z/11 3g fin e-ju lien n ed carrot 8 o z/2 2 7 g carrots, cut into julienne 2 ts p /6.50 g salt 2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice wine vinegar 1 tb sp /3.50 g dried wakame seaweed V* o z /2 1 g sugar 1 tb sp /1 5 mL mirin 1 ts p /2 g Korean red pepper powder 2 fl o z/6 0 mL rice vinegar V 2 ts p /2 .50 mL sesame oil 1 tb s p /1 5 mL light soy sauce
1 . Cut the daikon in half lengthwise, then into half 1 . Toss the cucumbers and carrots with the salt. Trans fer to a perforated pan set inside a solid pan and drain in the refrigerator for l hour.
2 .. Soak the wakame in warm water for 30 minutes. Drain in a colander and pour boiling water over it. Plunge the wakame into cold water and drain well. Trim off any tough parts and discard. Wrap the wakame in cheesecloth and twist tightly to extract
moons Ms in/3 mm thick.
2 . Toss the daikon and cucumbers with the salt, cover, and set aside to drain until the daikon is pliable, about 30 minutes. Gently squeeze out any excess water and transfer to another bowl.
3 . Add the carrots, vinegar, sugar, red pepper powder, and oil. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate until chilled.
the moisture. Cut the wakame into chiffonade and reserve.
3 . Whisk together the mirin, vinegar, and soy sauce. Pour half the mixture over the cucumbers and car
Cucumber Salad
rots. Toss gently and squeeze to remove excess salt.
M akes 10 servings
Drain off the liquid.
4 . Pour the remaining dressing over the cucumbers and carrots.
5 . At the very last minute before service, add the sea weed and toss to combine. Serve immediately.
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL rice wine vinegar 3
V 2 o z/9 9 g sugar
2 ts p /6.50 g salt 3 English cucumbers, halved lengthwise, cut into y8-in/3-m m slices 1 medium red onion, quartered lengthwise, cut into Va-\n/3-m m slices 1 tb sp /9 g red jalapeno, halved lengthwise, cut into '/8-in/3-m m slices 4 tb sp /1 2 g roughly chopped or torn mint leaves V * o z/2 1 g cilantro leaves
1 . Combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a saucepan. Warm over low heat, whisking constantly until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Do not boil. Cool to room temperature.
922
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Chicken Salad
a nonreactive bowl. Add the vinegar mixture. Mari
M akes 8 servings
nate for 30 minutes. Drain the salad and serve immediately. Garnish with
2 q t/1 .9 2 L Chicken Stock (page 263)
mint and cilantro.
Salt, as needed 1 o z/2 8 g crushed garlic cloves (optional) 1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Cucumber Yogurt Salad
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
M akes 10 servings
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped marjoram
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped pecans 4 o z/1 1 3 g grapes, halved
3 tb sp /9 g finely chopped chervil 1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g English cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
3 tb sp /9 g finely chopped tarragon
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 tb sp /6 g finely chopped oregano
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Greek-style yogurt
Ground black pepper, as needed
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 2 tb sp /6 g chopped mint
1 . Pour the stock into a sauce pot, season with salt, and add the garlic, if desired. Poach the chicken breasts
1 o z/2 8 g green onions, minced V 2 tsp /1 g ground cumin Ground black pepper, as needed
in the stock over medium heat until they are forktender and fully cooked, 30 to 35 minutes.
salad dressing and salad recipes
Combine the cucumbers, onions, and jalapenos in
2 . Remove the chicken from the stock. (Strain and reserve the stock for another use, or discard.) Allow
1 . Toss the cucumbers with salt to coat in a colander. Allow the cucumber to sit for at least 30 minutes to drain them of their excess liquid. Press the cucum bers lightly to remove additional moisture.
2 . Combine the cucumbers with the yogurt, garlic, mint, green onions, cumin, and pepper in a medium
the chicken to cool to room temperature. Cut into medium dice.
3 . Combine the chicken with the mayonnaise, pecans, grapes, marjoram, chervil, tarragon, and oregano. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
bowl. Reserve under refrigeration until needed for service.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
923
Hue-Style Chicken Salad Makes
10
servings
Crispy Shallots Makes
4
oz/1 1 3 g
10 o z/2 8 4 g peeled shallots 2 4 fl o z/7 2 0 mL vegetable oil
3 chickens (about 3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg each) 1 o z/2 8 g salt
1 . Evenly slice the shallots Vs in/3 mm thick. Separate
1 tb s p /6 g coarsely ground black pepper
them into rings and spread them on a paper towel-
l 3/ t o z /5 0 g sugar
lined sheet pan to air-dry for 30 minutes. (This tech
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL lime juice 3 o z/8 5 g onion, sliced into paper-thin rings
nique helps make the shallots crisp.)
2 . Heat the oil in a heavy pot to about 28o°F/i38°C. Add the shallots and stir often with a spider until
10 Thai chiles, thinly sliced
they are golden and crisp. Remove the shallots from
3>/2 o z/99 g torn rau ram leaves
the oil and drain on the sheet pan. Allow the shallots
31/2 o z/9 9 g torn mint leaves 3'/2 o z/9 9 g torn cilantro leaves
to cool.
3 . Serve immediately or store in a covered container for later service.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL peanut oil 2 fl o z/6 0 mL fish sauce 2 f I o z/6 0 mL Vietnamese sambal 10 Boston lettuce leaves
Tuna Salad
12 o z/3 4 0 g Steamed Long-Grain Rice (page 785)
Makes
6 red Fresno chiles, cut into paper-thin slices I V 2 o z/4 3 g Crispy Shallots (recipe follows)
1 . Bring a stockpot of salted water to a vigorous boil.
10
servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g water-packed tuna 4Y2 o z/1 2 8 g small-dice celery l
'/2
o z/4 3 g small-dice red onion
Add the chickens, return to a boil, and simmer for 15
3/ t o z/21 g chopped dill
minutes. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
chickens sit until they reach an internal temperature
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice
of i65°F/74°C, about 45 minutes.
2 . Remove the chickens from the pot and plunge them into cool water for 10 minutes. Remove and discard
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
the skin and bones. Shred the meat into thin strips. Refrigerate until chilled.
3 . Season the chicken with the salt, pepper, and sugar. Add the lime juice, onions, Thai chiles, rau ram, mint, cilantro, oil, fish sauce, and sambal and toss gently.
4 . Serve the salad in a lettuce leaf with steamed rice. Garnish with three rings of Fresno chile and the crispy shallots.
1 . Drain the tuna in a colander. Squeeze out the excess liquid by handfuls, then flake the tuna into a large bowl.
2 . Add the celery, onions, dill, mayonnaise, and lemon juice and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. NOTE: Add 4 o z /1 1 3 g d ic e d pickles or drained pickle relish fo r additional flavor.
924
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Shrimp Salad
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g small-dice Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866)
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
6 o z/1 7 0 g minced celery
8 o z/2 2 7 g minced celery
3 o z/8 5 g minced onion
3 o z/8 5 g minced onion
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground white pepper, as needed
V 2 tsp /1 g garlic powder, or as needed 1 tb s p /1 5 mL Dijon mustard, or as needed
1 . Coarsely chop the shrimp (leave small shrimp whole).
1 . Combine the eggs, mayonnaise, celery, and onions and mix well. Season with salt, pepper, garlic pow der, and mustard.
2 . Combine the shrimp, mayonnaise, celery, and onions and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
Ham Salad Makes 10 servings
Pasta Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette
salad dressing and salad recipes
Egg Salad
Makes 10 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g diced or ground smoked ham 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 1 to V/2 o z/2 8 to 43 g drained sweet pickle relish
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked penne pasta, cooled 10 o z/2 8 4 g tomatoes, diced or cut into wedges 4 o z/1 1 3 g ham, diced or cut into julienne (optional)
1 to 2 tb s p /1 5 to 30 mL prepared mustard 3 o z/8 5 g diced red or sweet onion Salt, as needed 2 o z/5 7 g pitted olives, chopped Ground black pepper, as needed 1 o z/2 8 g toasted pine nuts
1 . Combine the ham, mayonnaise, relish, and mustard and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Pesto Vinaigrette (page 901) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Combine all the ingredients. Marinate for several hours in the refrigerator before serving.
c h a p te r 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
925
European-Style Potato Salad Makes 10 servings
1 . Combine the potatoes, eggs, onions, and celery in a large bowl. Mix the mustard with the mayonnaise and Worcestershire sauce. Add to the potato mixture and toss gently. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. 5 o z/1 4 2 g small-dice onion 3 f I o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar 8 f 1o z/2 4 0 mL White Beef Stock (page 263) 3 tb sp /4 5 mL prepared mustard, or as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad (Fottoush) Makes 10 servings
1 ts p /5 g sugar, or as needed 3 fl o z/9 0 mL vegetable oil
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg Pita Bread (page 1037)
3 lb /1.36 kg cooked waxy potatoes, peeled and sliced, warm
18 fl o z/5 4 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley or minced chives
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL lemon juice
1 . Combine the onions, vinegar, and stock and bring to a boil. Add the mustard, salt, pepper, and sugar. Stir
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL red wine vinegar
in the oil. Immediately pour the hot dressing over
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
the warm potato slices. Toss gently to mix.
V 2 o z/1 4 g chopped thyme
2 . Sprinkle the salad with the parsley or chives. Let it stand for at least l hour before serving at room tem perature, or cool and refrigerate for later service.
1 tsp/2gcayenne 3/ t o z/21 g sugar 6 o z/1 7 0 g chopped green onions
2V i oz/71 g chopped parsley 2 lb /9 0 7 g plum tomatoes, seeded, cut into medium dice
Potato Salad Makes 10 servings
2 lb /9 0 7 g English cucumbers, peeled, seeded, cut into medium dice 10 o z /2 8 4 g sliced radishes
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg cooked Red Bliss potatoes, peeled and sliced 6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866) 5 o z/1 4 2 g diced onion 5 o z/1 4 2 g diced celery 2 tb sp /3 0 mL Dijon mustard, or as needed 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) Worcestershire sauce, as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice yellow pepper
1 . Cut the pita bread into small wedges. Toss the pita wedges with 3 fl oz/go mL of the oil, salt, and pepper. Bake on a sheet pan in a 300^/149°C oven, turning once halfway through the baking, until crisp but not brittle, 15 minutes.
2 . Combine the lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, thyme, cay enne, sugar, and salt and pepper. Gradually whisk in the remaining oil.
3 . Combine the dressing with the green onions, parsley, tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, and yellow peppers. Add the pita toasts and gently toss. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
4 . Serve immediately, or refrigerate for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
20 anchovy fillets, thinly sliced (optional)
Makes 10 servings
2 tb s p /1 0 g drained, rinsed capers
8 o z/2 2 7 g stale or toasted Italian bread, torn into medium pieces 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g large-dice tomatoes 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
3 tb s p /9 g basil chiffonade 10 fl o z /3 0 0 mL Red Wine Vinaigrette (page 896), or as needed
Combine the bread, tomatoes, garlic, celery, cucum
3 o z/8 5 g celery hearts, sliced thin on the bias
bers, peppers, anchovies, if using, capers, and basil.
8 o z/2 2 7 g medium-dice peeled, seeded cucumber
Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat.
6 o z/1 70 g medium-dice red pepper
Serve immediately, or refrigerate for later service.
6 o z/1 7 0 g medium-dice yellow pepper
salad dressing and salad recipes
Panzanella
927
Tomato and Mozzarella Salad Makes 10 servings 3 lb /1.36 kg sliced tomatoes
Green Lentil Salad (5olade des Lentilles du Puy) Makes 10 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g sliced fresh mozzarella 1 onion pique 10 fl o z/2 8 4 g Red Wine Vinaigrette (page 896) 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g French green lentils, sorted and rinsed Salt, as needed 2 garlic cloves V2 o z/1 4 g basil chiffonade 1 o z/2 8 g finely minced shallot Cracked black peppercorns, as needed 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard
Place the tomatoes and mozzarella slices alternately
3 tb s p /4 5 mL red wine vinegar
on a plate and drizzle the vinaigrette over the top.
Salt, as needed
Season with salt. Garnish with the basil and pepper.
Ground black pepper, as needed
Serve immediately.
3 tb s p /4 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley
Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Arrostiti) Makes 10 servings 4 lb 4 oz/1.93 kg roasted red and yellow peppers (see page 639) 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g golden raisins 2 o z/5 7 g toasted pine nuts
1 . Place the onion in a medium pot with the lentils and garlic. Cover with cold water by 1 in/3 cm- Cover the pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the lentils are tender but still intact, 25 to 35 minutes. The cooking liquid should be absorbed when the lentils are cooked.
2 . Discard the onion and garlic. Toss the warm lentils with the shallots.
3 . Combine the mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil. Adjust seasoning with salt
1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Cut the peppers into Vi-in/6-mm slices and drain in a sieve or colander for 2 hours.
2 . Combine the peppers with the oil, raisins, pine nuts, parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper.
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
and pepper, if necessary.
4 . Add the dressing to the warm lentils and shallots. Mix well. Garnish with the parsley.
5 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service. Variation: Add 6 oz/170 g each minced green onions and chopped walnuts to the finished salad.
Makes 10 servings 10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked black beans
Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad Makes 10 servings
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked pinto beans or small red kidney beans
2 rosemary sprigs
10 o z/2 8 4 g drained cooked chickpeas
2 thyme sprigs
5 o z/1 4 2 g drained cooked red lentils
2 bay leaves
6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice red onion
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL olive oil
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced celery
4 o z /1 13 g minced onions
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Vinaigrette Gourmande (page 901)
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Salt, as needed
12 o z/3 4 0 g dried black-eyed peas, sorted and rinsed
Ground black pepper, as needed
I V 2 q t/1 .4 4 L Chicken Stock (page 263), or as needed 3 fl o z/9 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 . Combine the black beans, pinto beans, chickpeas, lentils, onions, celery, and parsley. Gently toss with the vinaigrette.
2 . Marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours. 3 . Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
3 tb sp /9 g basil chiffonade Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
salad dressing and salad recipes
Mixed Bean Salad
1 . Tie the rosemary, thyme, and bay leaves into a bun dle with butcher’s twine.
2 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add the onions, half of the garlic, and the lemon zest and saute until the onions are tender.
3 . Add the peas, stock, and bundled herbs. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the peas are tender, about 1 hour. Add more stock, if necessary, to keep the peas covered throughout the cooking time.
4 . While the peas are cooking, combine the remaining oil and garlic, the lemon juice, and basil.
5 . Drain the peas and remove and discard the herb bundle. Add the hot peas to the oil mixture and toss gently until evenly coated. Season with salt and pepper. 6 . Serve immediately.
Chapter 27 » S A L A D D R E S S IN G S A N D S A L A D S
929
Curried Rice Salad
Seafood Ravigote
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 portions
2 lb /9 0 7 g cooked long-grain rice
V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot
8 o z/2 2 7 g cooked green peas
20 shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and deveined
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced onion
10 frog's leg pairs, cut in half
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced Granny Smith apples, peeled if desired
10 o z/2 8 4 g bay scallops, outer muscle removed
2 o z/5 7 g toasted pumpkin seeds 2 o z/5 7 g plumped golden raisins 6 f I o z/1 8 0 mL Curry Vinaigrette (page 898), or as needed Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased), as needed (optional)
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL white wine 14 fI o z/4 2 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264) 4 egg yolks 1 tb sp /1 5 mL prepared mustard 1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL vegetable oil 1 ts p /2 g Fines Herbes (page 369) Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the rice, peas, onions, apples, pumpkin seeds, and raisins.
2 . Toss lightly with the vinaigrette, adding just enough
20 cooked mussels 4 o z/1 1 3 g cucumber, cut into julienne
to moisten the rice. Season with salt, pepper, and
20 leaves Boston lettuce
curry powder, if desired.
20 tomato wedges
3 . Serve immediately or refrigerate for later service.
10 lemon wedges
1 . Combine the shallots, shrimp, frog’s legs, scallops, wine, and stock and bring to a simmer. Poach the seafood until cooked through.
2 . Remove the seafood, cover, and refrigerate. 3 . Strain the poaching liquid. Reduce the poaching liq uid to 3 tbsp/45 mL and transfer to a stainless-steel bowl and allow to cool.
4 . Add the egg yolks, mustard, and lemon juice and mix well. Whisk in the oil, starting very slowly in the beginning and increasing the speed as the oil is ab sorbed and a thick vinaigrette forms. Add the herbs and season with salt and pepper.
5 . Remove the meat from the frog’s legs and shell the mussels. Combine all the seafood with the sauce. 6 . Mix the cucumber into the seafood mixture.
7 . Serve the seafood ravigote on the lettuce leaves, gar nished with tomato, lemon, and cucumber.
930
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
sandwiches Sandwiches find their place on nearly every menu, from elegant receptions and teas to substantial but casual meals. Built from four simple elements— bread, a spread, a filling, and a garnish—they exemplify the ways in which a global approach to cuisine can result in nearly endless variety.
CHAPTER 28
elements in a sandwich A sandwich can be open or closed, hot or cold. It can be small enough to serve as an hors d’oeuvre or large enough to serve as an entree. Cold sandwiches include standard deli-style ver sions made from sliced meats or mayonnaise-dressed salads. Club sandwiches, also known as triple-decker sandwiches, are included in this category as well. Hot sandwiches may feature a freshly cooked or heated filling, such as a hamburger or pastrami. Others are grilled, like a Reuben sandwich or a melt. Sometimes a hot filling is mounded on bread and the sandwich is topped with a hot sauce. BREADS Bread fo r sandwiches runs a fairly wide gamut. Sliced white and wheat Pullman loaves are used to make many cold sandwiches. The tight crumb of a good Pullman makes it a particularly appropriate choice fo r delicate tea and finger sandwiches, since they can be thinly sliced without crumbling. Tea and finger sandwiches must be made on fine-grained bread in order to be trimmed of their crusts and precisely cut into shapes and sizes that can be eaten in about two average bites. Whole-grain and peasant-style breads are not always as easy to slice thin. Various other breads, buns, rolls, and wrappers are used to make special sandwiches. The characteristics of the bread and how it will f it with the sandwich should be considered. The bread should be firm enough and thick enough to hold the filling, but not so thick that the sand wich is too dry to enjoy. Most breads can be sliced in advance of sandwich preparation as long as they are carefully covered to pre vent drying. Toasting should be done immediately before assemblingthe sandwich. Some breads to choose from include: » Pullman loaves (white, wheat, or rye) » Peasant-style breads (pumpernickel, sourdough, pain de campagne, and boule) » Rolls (hard, soft, and Kaiser) » Flatbreads (focaccia, pita, ciabatta, and lavash) » Wrappers (rice paper and egg roll)
SPREADS Many sandwiches call for a spread applied directly to the bread. A fat-based spread (mayonnaise or butter, for instance) provides a barrier to keep the bread from get ting soggy. Spreads also add moisture to a sandwich and help hold it together as it is picked up and eaten. Some sandwich fillings include the spread in the filling mixture (for example, a mayonnaise-dressed tuna salad); there is no need then to add a spread when assemblingthe sandwich. Spreads can be very simple and subtly flavored, or they may themselves bring a special flavor and texture to the sandwich. The following list of spreads includes some classic choices as well as some that may not im mediately spring to mind as sandwich spreads. » Mayonnaise (plain or flavored, such as aToli and rouille) or creamy salad dressings » Plain or compound butters » M ustard or ketchup » Spreadable cheeses (ricotta, cream cheese, mascarpone, or creme fratche) » Vegetable or herb spreads (hummus, tapenade, or pesto) » Tahini and nut butters » Jellies, jams, compotes, chutneys, and other fru it preserves » Avocado pulp or guacamole » Oils and vinaigrettes
F IL LI N GS Sandwich fillings are the focus of a sandwich. They may be cold or hot, substantial or minimal. It is as important to properly roast and slice turkey fo r club sandwiches as it is to be certain that the watercress fo r tea sandwiches is perfectly fresh and completely rinsed and dried. The filling should determine how all the other elements of the sandwich are selected and prepared. Choices for fillings include the following: » Sliced roasted or simmered meats (roast beef, corned beef, pastrami, turkey, ham, pate, or
» Flour and corn to rtillas
932
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
sausage)
» Grilled, roasted, or fresh vegetables
the way they complement or contrast the main filling. When sandwiches are plated, side garnishes may also be included. For example:
» Grilled, pan-fried, or broiled burgers, sausages, fish, or poultry
» Green salad or side salad (potato, pasta, or coleslaw)
» Salads of meats, poultry, eggs, fish, or vegetables
» Lettuce and sprouts
GARNISHES
» Sliced fresh vegetables
Lettuce leaves, slices o f tomato or onion, sprouts, mari
» Pickle spears or olives
nated or brined peppers, and olives are just a few of the many ingredients that can be used to garnish sand wiches. These garnishes become part of the sandwich's
» Dips, spreads, or relishes » Sliced fru its
overall structure, so choose them with some thought to
presentation styles A sandwich constructed with a top and a bottom slice
slightly more expensive to produce. Take the time to cut
of bread is known as a closed sandwich. A club sandwich
shapes uniformly so that they look their best when set in
has a third slice of bread. Still other sandwiches have
straight rows on platters or arranged on plates.
only one slice of bread, which acts as a base; these are open-faced sandwiches. Create straight-edged sandwiches by cutting them into squares, rectangles, diamonds, or triangles. The
elements in a sandwich
» Sliced cheeses
Cut sandwiches as close to service as possible. If sandwiches must be prepared ahead of time, hold them wrapped in plastic or in airtight containers for only a few hours.
yield may be lower when preparing shapes, making them
sandwich production guidelines Organize the work station carefully, whether prepar
» Slice breads and rolls prior to service fo r volume
ing mise en place or assembling sandwiches fo r ser
production. Whenever possible, toast, grill, or broil
vice. Everything needed should be within arm's reach.
breads when ready to assemble the sandwich. If
Maximize the work flow by looking fo r ways to eliminate
bread must be toasted in advance, hold the to ast in
any unnecessary movements:
a warm area, loosely covered.
» Organize the work so th a t it moves in a direct line. » Prepare spreads prior to service and have them at a spreadable consistency. Use a spatula to spread the entire surface of the bread.
» Prepare and portion fillings and garnishes in ad vance and hold them at the correct tem perature. Clean and dry lettuce or other greens in advance. » Grilled sandwiches, such as a Reuben or croque monsieur, can be fully assembled in advance of ser vice and grilled or heated to order.
ch a p te r 28 » S A N D W I C H E S
933
ClAClub
Phi I ly Hoagie
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903), or as needed
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL olive oil
30 slices white Pullman bread, V a in /6 mm thick, toasted
3 fl o z/9 0 mL red wine vinegar
20 red leaf lettuce leaves 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced turkey 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced ham 20 tomato slices 20 bacon slices, cooked and cut in half
1 . For each sandwich, spread l tsp/5 mL of mayonnaise
1 tb sp /3 g chopped oregano Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed Ten 10-in /25-cm hoagie rolls 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g thinly sliced prosciutto 10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced sweet cappicola 10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced genoa salami
on 1 slice of toast. Layer a lettuce leaf and 2 oz/57 g
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced provolone
each of turkey and ham on the toast.
5 o z/1 4 2 g shredded iceberg lettuce
2 . Spread Vi tsp/2.50 mL of mayonnaise on both sides of another slice of toast and place on top of the ham.
30 tomato slices, Vs in /3 mm thick 30 onion slices, Vi6 in /1.50 mm thick
Top with another lettuce leaf, 2 tomato slices, and 2 bacon slices (4 halves).
3 . Spread 1 tsp/5 mL of mayonnaise on 1 more slice of toast and place it on the sandwich, mayonnaise side down.
4 . Secure the sandwich with sandwich picks. Cut the sandwich into quarters, and serve immediately.
1 . Mix together the oil, vinegar, and oregano to make a dressing. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it hinged, and brush the inside with the dressing.
3 . Arrange 1 oz/28 g each prosciutto, cappicola, and salami on the roll. Top with 2 oz/57 g provolone and V2 oz/14 g ° f lettuce. Place 3 slices each tomato and
onion on top of the lettuce. Drizzle the sandwich with additional dressing. Close the sandwich.
4 . Serve immediately.
934
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
CIA Club
Chicken Burger Makes 10 servings 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg ground chicken
Barbecued Beef Sandwich Makes 10 servings
6 o z/1 7 0 g bread crumbs 4 lb/1.81 kg beef brisket 1 lb /4 5 4 g Duxelles Stuffing (page 482), cooled lt b s p /lO g s a lt 2 tb sp /6 g chopped herbs, such as chives, oregano, basil, or parsley
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /3 g salt
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Barbecue Sauce (page 475)
V 2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper
10 hoagie or Kaiser rolls
10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced provolone
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter or as needed, melted
10 Kaiser rolls 4 o z /1 13 g butter or as needed, melted
1 . Season the brisket with the salt and pepper. Place on a rack in a roasting pan and roast in a 325°F/i63°C
10 green or red leaf lettuce leaves 20 tomato slices
oven for 2 hours. Cover with aluminum foil and con tinue cooking until fork-tender, about 3 hours more. Baste the brisket with some of the barbecue sauce
1 . Gently mix the chicken, bread crumbs, duxelles, herbs, salt, and pepper. Form into ten 6 -o z h jo -g patties.
2 . Lightly butter a large saute pan or griddle. Brown the
during the final 2 hours of roasting.
2 . Cool the brisket and trim off any excess fat. Slice or shred the meat. Mix with the remaining sauce and reheat in a 350°F/i77°C oven or over medium heat to
patties on both sides. Finish in a 35o°F/i77°C oven to
an internal temperature of i6o°F/7i°C. Adjust sea
an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C.
soning with salt and pepper, if necessary.
3 . Prior to service, top each burger with provolone and return to the oven to melt.
4 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it hinged. Brush the cut surfaces with melted butter and grill until golden. Place a burger on the roll and serve open-faced with l lettuce leaf and 2 tomato slices.
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
3 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll, leaving it hinged. Brush the cut surfaces with melted butter and grill until golden. Place the barbecued beef on the grilled roll and serve open-faced.
Makes 10 servings
Croque Monsieur Makes 10 servings 10 o z /2 8 4 g Gruyere (20 slices) 15 o z/4 2 5 g thinly sliced ham 20 slices white Pullman bread, '/t in /6 mm thick
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g onion, cut into julienne
2 tb s p /3 0 mL Dijon mustard
4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL clarified butter
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL soy sauce 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL duck sauce 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL water
1 . For each sandwich, place 1 slice Gruyere and 1V2 oz/43 g ham on 1 slice of bread. Spread lightly
with mustard. Place another slice of Gruyere on top
’/ 2
tsp /1 g garlic powder, or as needed
and close with a second slice of bread. Butter both
'/2
tsp /1 g ground ginger, or as needed
sides of the assembled sandwich.
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 10 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick, toasted
sandwich recipes
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sweet and Sour Onions
2 . Lightly butter a flattop or pan. Cook the sandwich until golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place in the oven and continue cooking until the cheese has melted. Serve immediately.
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg thinly sliced roast turkey 20 tomato slices 1 lb 4 o z /5 6 7 g thinly sliced Swiss cheese
1 . Saute the onions in the butter until translucent. Add the soy sauce, duck sauce, and water. Simmer until the onions are fully cooked and dry. Season with gar lic powder, ginger, salt, and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread some of the onion mix ture on a slice of toast. Cover with about 4V2 oz/128 g turkey. Spread additional onion mixture over the turkey. Place 2 tomato slices on top and cover the tomato with 2 oz/57 g cheese.
3 . Bake in a 35o°F/i77°C oven until the sandwich is heated through and the cheese is melted. Serve im mediately.
c h a p te r 28 » S A N D W IC H E S
937
Makes 10 servings
Marinated Eggplant Filling Makes 1 lb/454 S 1 lb /4 5 4 g Italian eggplant 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
8 3A
o z /2 48
g ricotta 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
2 ts p /2 g basil chiffonade 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 ts p /2 g coarsely ground black pepper 3 tb s p /4 5 mL red wine vinegar 1 tsp /1 g chopped oregano 2 tb s p /1 2 g dried oregano 1 tsp /1 g chopped parsley 1 tb sp /6 g dried basil
sandwich recipes
Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini
Salt, as needed 1 tb sp /6 g coarse ground black pepper 10 Italian hard rolls Pinch red pepper flakes 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL oil from the marinated eggplant 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Marinated Eggplant Filling (recipe follows) 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced prosciutto
1 . Slice the eggplant into slices Vs in/3 mm thick. Layer the slices in a colander, salting each layer liberally. Allow the eggplant to drain for 1 hour.
2 . Rinse off the bitter liquid and blot the slices dry with 1 . In a bowl, combine the ricotta, basil, pepper, orega no, parsley, and salt and mix well. Cover and refrig erate overnight.
2 . For each sandwich, split a roll lengthwise and brush the inside with oil from the marinated eggplant. Spread i oz/28 g herbed ricotta on one half of the roll and top with 2 oz/57 g each eggplant and pro sciutto. Top with the other half of the roll and serve
paper towels.
3 . Mix together the oil, garlic, vinegar, oregano, basil, black pepper, and red pepper.
4 . Toss the eggplant slices in the marinade; cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 days. Stir the mixture every day. NOTE: The eggplant is ready when the flesh has become relatively translucent and no longer tastes raw.
immediately.
3 . Grill in a panini press until golden. Serve immedi ately.
ch a p te r 28 » S A N D W IC H E S
939
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese Makes 10 servings
5 . Shake excess marinade off the vegetables before grilling to avoid flare-ups. Grill the vegetables on both sides over high heat until they yield slightly to the touch, but are not mushy. 6 . Transfer the vegetables, including the peppers to a sheet pan in a 350°F/i77°C oven for 10 minutes to finish cooking them until soft.
1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g chayotes Salt, as needed 1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g eggplant, cut into ’/ t-in /6 -m m slices 16 f lo z /4 3 9 g olive oil 1 V 2 tb sp /21 g Dijon mustard 3/ t o z/21 g minced garlic 2/b o z/1 9 g seeded, minced serrano chiles '/ 2
o z/1 4 g chopped thyme
2 tbsp/6 g chopped oregano Ground black pepper, as needed 2 lb /9 0 7 g red onions, sliced
7 . Slice the portobellos on the bias into %-in/6-mm slices. Hold all the vegetables at room temperature. 8 . Gently separate and wash the lettuce leaves. Drain on paper towels and reserve.
9 . For each sandwich, slice open a roll. Spread a thin layer of tapenade on the cut surfaces of the roll. Layer with mushroom, onion, poblano, red pepper, eggplant, and chayote. Top with 2 tomato slices and 3 slices of Manchego. Top with the other half of the roll. L 0 . Warm the sandwiches for 10 to 15 minutes in a 25o°F/i2i°C oven before serving.
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g red bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and sliced in half 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g poblanos, roasted, peeled, seeded, and sliced in half
Three-Cheese Melt
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g portobello mushrooms, stems removed
Makes 10 servings
I head romaine lettuce 10 hoagie rolls 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL Tapenade (page 959) I I o z/3 1 2 g beefsteak tomatoes, sliced V b in /3 mm thick (20 slices) 10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced Manchego (30 slices)
1 . Simmer the chayotes in salted water until tender,
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced Cheddar 5 o z/1 4 2 g crumbled blue cheese 10 o z/2 8 4 g thinly sliced Pepper Jack 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, or as needed, soft
1 . For each sandwich, top 1 slice of bread with 1 oz/28
about 45 minutes. Cool. Cut into %-in/6-mm slices
g Cheddar, V2 oz/14 g crumbled blue cheese, 1 oz/28
(discard the pits) and reserve.
g pepper Jack, and another 1 oz/28 g Cheddar. Top
2 . Lightly salt the eggplant slices and drain in a colan der for 30 minutes. Blot dry on paper towels.
3 . Combine the olive oil, mustard, garlic, serranos, thyme, oregano, salt, and pepper to make the mari nade.
4 . Place the chayote, eggplant, onions, peppers, po blanos, and portobellos in separate half hotel pans. Pour marinade over each and turn to coat with the marinade.
940
20 slices white Pullman bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
with a second bread slice. Butter both sides of the assembled sandwich.
2 . Lightly butter a flattop or saute pan. Cook the sand wich until golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place in the oven and continue cooking until the cheese has melted. Serve immediately.
Reuben Sandwich
Tempeh Reuben
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
RUSSIAN DRESSING 10 fl o z/3 00 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) 3 f I o z/9 0 mL chili sauce V *
oz/21 g prepared horseradish
1 o z/2 8 g minced onion, blanched 3/ t ts p /3.75 mL Worcestershire sauce Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g tempeh 3 f I o z/9 0 mL soy sauce 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL red wine vinegar 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Vegetable Stock (page 265) 2 3/ t o z/7 8 g minced onion 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic V 2 ts p /1 g ground black pepper 1 ts p /2 g paprika 20 slices rye bread, toasted
20 slices Emmentaler
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Thousand Island Dressing (page 906)
2 lb /9 0 7 g thinly sliced corned beef
12 o z/3 4 0 g Sauerkraut (page 593 or purchased), drained
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Sauerkraut (page 593 or purchased) 20 slices rye bread, 'A in /6 mm thick 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
1 . To prepare the Russian dressing, mix together the mayonnaise, chili sauce, horseradish, onions, and Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, layer l slice cheese, l tbsp/15 mL Russian dressing, 1V2 oz/43 g corned beef, and 2 oz/57 g sauerkraut on 1 slice of bread. Top with an other 1V2 oz/43 g corned beef, 1 tbsp/15 mL Russian dressing, and a second slice of cheese. Top with a bread slice.
3 . Butter both sides of the assembled sandwich. Lightly butter a flattop or pan. Cook the sandwich until golden brown on both sides. If necessary, place in the oven and continue cooking until the cheese has melted. Serve immediately.
942
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
1 . With a sharp knife, gently slice the tempeh into 40 thin slices.
2 . Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, stock, onions, gar lic, pepper, and paprika in a shallow baking dish. Add the tempeh slices, cover and refrigerate to mari nate for at least 2 hours and up to overnight, turning occasionally.
3 . Bake the tempeh slices with their marinade in a 350°F/i77°C oven until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes.
4 . Layer 4 slices of the tempeh on 1 slice of bread with 1 tbsp/15 ml thousand island dressing and 2 fl ozl 36 g sauerkraut. Top with a second slice of bread and serve warm.
M akes 10 servings
1 . To make the herb mayonnaise, combine the mayon naise and the minced herbs. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL herb may onnaise on each of 2 slices of bread. Lay some wa tercress on 1 slice of bread and top with the second slice.
6 o z/1 7 0 g cream cheese, soft 1 tb sp /3 g chopped dill 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives 2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, or as needed
3 . Trim the crust off each sandwich and cut into four triangles or another desired shape.
4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2 hours.
sandwich recipes
Cucumber Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick 12 o z/3 4 0 g thinly sliced English cucumber
1 . Blend the cream cheese, dill, chives, and enough
Apple Sandwich with >nnaise M akes 10 servings
cream to get a smooth, spreading consistency. Sea son with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL herbed cream cheese on 2 slices of bread. Layer some cu
1 tb sp /9 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) Salt, as needed
cumber slices on 1 slice of bread and top with a sec ond slice of bread.
3 . Trim the crust off each sandwich and cut into four rectangles or another desired shape.
Ground black pepper, as needed 20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick 1 lb /4 5 4 g Granny Smith apples, peeled and thinly sliced
4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2 hours.
1 . Toast the curry powder in small dry saute pan over medium heat. Allow the curry powder to cool and blend it into the mayonnaise. Season with salt and
Watercress Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise M akes 10 servings HERB MAYONNAISE 5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903) V2 o z/1 4 g minced herbs such as chives, parsley, or dill
pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL curry mayonnaise on each of 2 slices of bread. Place 1V4 oz/35 g apple slices on 1 slice of the bread and top with the second slice of bread.
3 . Using a iVi-in/4-cm round cutter, cut each sandwich into four circles, or cut into another desired shape.
4 . Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2 hours.
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
20 slices white Pullman bread, V* in /6 mm thick 3 o z/8 5 g cleaned and trimmed watercress
c h a p te r 28 » S A N D W IC H E S
943
Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich
Tomato Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
2 o z/5 7 g cream cheese, soft
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL sour cream
5 o z/1 4 2 g Gorgonzola, soft
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
2 f I o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, or as needed
Salt, as needed
Salt, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
Ground black pepper, as needed
20 slices white Pullman bread,
2 fl o z/6 0 mL honey
2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes, cored and thinly sliced
in /6 mm thick
2 tb sp /3 0 mL white wine vinegar 1 lb /4 5 4 g pears 20 slices raisin pumpernickel bread, 'A in /6 mm thick
1 . Combine the sour cream and oregano. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . For each sandwich, spread about 1V2 tsp/7.50 mL of 1 . Blend the cream cheese and Gorgonzola with enough cream to get a smooth spreading consistency. Season with salt and pepper.
2 . Combine the honey and vinegar. Peel and thinly slice the pears and brush them with the honey-vinegar solution to prevent oxidation.
3 . For each sandwich, spread the Gorgonzola mixture on 2 slices of bread. Place about l lA oz/35 g of the pears on 1 slice of bread and top with the second slice of bread.
4 . Cut into the desired shape. Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2 hours.
944
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
the sour cream mixture on each of 2 slices of bread. Place about 3 oz/85 g tomato slices on 1 slice of the bread and top with the second slice of bread.
3 . Cut into the desired shape. Serve immediately or hold covered and refrigerated for no more than 2 hours.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizers The distinction between an hors d'oeuvre and an appetizer has more to do with the portion size and how and when it is served than with the actual food being served. Hors d’oeuvre are typically served as a prelude to a meal, while appetizers are usually the meal's firs t course.
CHAPTER 29
hors d’oeuvre The term hors d'oeuvre is from the French fo r "outside
foods are presented. These guidelines can assist the
the meal.’' Hors d'oeuvre are meant to pique the taste
chef in hors d'oeuvre presentation:
buds and perk up the appetite. Foods served as hors d’oeuvre should be: » Small enough to eat in one or two bites. Some hors d'oeuvre are eaten with the fingers, while others may require a plate and a fork. W ith very few ex ceptions, hors d’oeuvre do not require the use of a knife. » A ttractive. Because hors d’oeuvre customarily precede the meal, they are considered a means of teasing the ap p etite. This is partially accomplished through visual appeal. » Designed to complem ent the meal th a t is to follow. It is im portant to avoid serving too many foods of a similar tas te or texture. For example, if the menu features a lobster bisque, lobster canapes may be inappropriate.
PRESENTING HORS D' OEUVRE The presentation of hors d’oeuvre can extend from the elegance of butler-style service to the relative infor mality of a buffet, or it may be a combination of service styles. The type of hors d'oeuvre as well as the require ments of a particular function determine how these
» Keep in mind the nature of the event as well as the menu th a t follows when selecting hors d’oeuvre. » Ice carvings and ice beds are o ften used to keep seafood and caviar very cold, as well as fo r their dram atic appeal. Be sure th at the ice can drain properly and th a t heavy or large ice carvings are stable. » Hors d'oeuvre served on platters or passed on trays should be thoughtfully presented, so th a t the last hors d'oeuvre on the plate is still attractively pre sented. » Hors d’oeuvre th a t are served with a sauce require serving utensils. In order to prevent the guest from having to juggle a plate, fork, and napkin while standing, these hors d’oeuvre should ordinarily be lim ited to either b u ffe t service or served as the prelude to a multicourse meal. » To ensure th a t hot hors d'oeuvre stay hot, avoid combining hot and cold items on a single platter. If possible, place few er hot hors d’oeuvre on each p la tte r being passed and replenish them more frequently.
appetizers While hors d’oeuvre are served separately from the main
plating. M ost appetizers are small servings of very flavor
meal, appetizers are traditionally its firs t course. The
ful foods, meant to take just enough edge o ff the appetite
role of the appetizer on the contemporary menu is be
to permit thorough enjoyment of an entree.
coming increasingly important. Although the traditional pate, smoked trout, or escargot with garlic butter may still be found, dishes based on pasta, grilled vegetables,
ites are perfectly fresh clams and oysters, fo r example,
and grains are receiving more exposure.
shucked as close to service tim e as possible and served
The usual admonition to "build” a menu from one
with sauces designed to enhance their naturally briny
course to the next calls fo r some logical connection
flavor, or a classic shrimp cocktail, served with a cocktail
between the appetizer and all the courses to follow. For
sauce, salsa, or other pungent sauce. Smoked fish, meat,
every rule you read about what types of foods should or
or poultry; sausages, pates, terrines, and galantines; air-
shouldn't constitute an appetizer, you will find at least
dried ham and beef sliced paper thin— all of these can
one good exception.
be used to create appetizer plates, on their own with a
What most appetizers have in common is careful a t tention to portioning and sound technical execution and
946
Classic hors d'oeuvre can be served as appetizers by increasing the portion size slightly. Perennial favor
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
few accompaniments or garnishes, or as a sampler plate.
too easy to deaden the palate by overwhelming it with too much garlic or an extravagance of basil at
stituted to vary the salad from season to season or to
the m eal’s start. Remember th at other courses will
showcase a range o f flavors and textures from other cui
follow this one.
sines. Small portions of meat or seafood items may be combined with salads to create interesting appetizers. Warm and hot appetizers include small servings of pasta, such as tortellini or ravioli, served on their own or in a sauce or broth. Puff pastry shells can be cut into volau-vents or made into turnovers and filled with savory ragouts or foie gras. Broiled or grilled fish, shellfish, or poultry are often featured. Crepes, blini, and other similar dishes are popular. Meatballs and other highly seasoned ground-meat appetizers are also frequent choices. Vegetables are more important than ever as an appetizer. They are often presented very simply—for example, steamed artichokes with a dipping sauce, chilled asparagus drizzled with a flavored oil, or a plate of grilled vegetables accompanied by an a'ioli. PREPARING AND PRESENTI NG AP PE TI ZE R S In preparing and presenting appetizers, keep in mind the following guidelines: » Keep the portion size appropriate. Generally, appe tizers should be served in small servings. » Season all appetizers with meticulous care. Appe
» Keep garnishes to a minimum. Those garnishes th at are used should serve to heighten the dish's appeal by adding flavor and texture, not just color. » Serve all appetizers a t the proper tem perature. Remember to chill or warm plates. » Slice, shape, and portion appetizers carefully, with just enough on the plate to make the appetizer in terestin g and appealing from sta rt to finish but not so much th a t the guest is overwhelmed. » Neatness always counts, but especially with appe tizers. They can set the stage fo r the entire meal. » When offerin g shared appetizers, consider how they will look when they come to the table. It may be more effe c tiv e to split a shared plate in the kitchen,
hors d’oeuvre and appetizers
Salads are also served as appetizers. Portion size may be changed or a different sauce or garnish sub
rather than leaving it to the guests to divide it themselves. » Color, shape, and w hite space play a role in the over all composition of the plate. » Choose the right size and shape serving pieces and provide the guest with everything necessary for the appetizer, including special utensils, dishes to
tizers are meant to stim ulate the appetite, so sea
hold em pty shells or bones, and, if necessary, finger
soning is of the utm ost importance. Don't overuse
bowls.
fresh herbs and other seasonings, however. It is all
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
947
A C O L D S A V O R Y M O U S S E H A S M A N Y A P P L I C A T I O N S . S e r v e d U N M O L D E D , S L I C E D A S A L O A F OR T E R R I N E , O R P I P E D I N T O A S H E L L O R A S A T O P P I N G , I T C A N BE F E A T U R E D A S A N H O R S D ' O E U V R E , A N A P P E T I Z E R , OR A C O M P O N E N T IN O T H E R D I S H E S .
THE
F R E N C H W O R D M O U S S E L I T E R A L L Y M E A N S " F O A M " OR “ F R O T H . ”
cold savory mousse A mousse is prepared by gently folding whipped cream or whipped egg whites into an in tensely flavored base th at often contains gelatin. The light, frothy mixture is chilled enough to set before it is served. A cold mousse is not cooked a fte r assembly, since heating would deflate the foam. A hot mousse is a small portion of a forcem eat th a t has been molded in a fashion similar to a cold mousse before it is cooked and served hot. Although each base ingredient may call for an adjustment in the amount of binder and aerator, the basic formula described on the next page is a good checkpoint. It can and should be altered depending on the type of mousse being made and the intended use of the final product. The mousse’s main (base) ingredient may be one or a combination of the fo l lowing: finely ground or pureed cooked or smoked meats, fish, or poultry; cheese or a blend of cheeses (a spreadable cheese, such as fresh goat cheese or cream cheese, is typically used); or a puree of vegetables (this may need to be reduced by sauteing to intensify flavor and drive o ff excess moisture). All base ingredients should be properly seasoned before you add other ingredients, and the seasoning rechecked once the mousse is prepared. Be sure to tes t at service tem perature to make adjustments if necessary. Some base ingredients are already stable enough to give finished mousses structure (for example, cheeses). For base ingredients th at are not as dense, formulas typically in clude a quantity of gelatin (see Working with Gelatin, page 950). The amount of gelatin should be enough so th at the mousse holds its shape. The more gelatin is added, the firm er the finished mousse will be. Choose the quantity based on presentation (a firm er mousse for slicing, a softer mousse fo r spooning or piping). The lightener in a mousse can be a foam o f whipped egg whites, or heavy cream whipped to soft or medium peaks. If the whites or cream are overbeaten, the mousse may start to "deflate"from its own weight as it sits. Added seasonings, flavorings, and garnishes can run a wide gamut and should be chosen to suit the main ingredient's flavor. Equipment needs for preparing a mousse include a food processor to work the main item into a puree or paste, and a whisk or electric mixer with a wire whip to prepare the egg whites and/or cream. Have a drum sieve on hand to strain the base, if necessary. Prepare an ice w ater bath to cool the mixture, as well as the proper setup for weighing and handling gelatin. Prepare various molds and serving dishes, or a pastry bag, to shape the finished mousse.
948
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
cold savory mousse
9
basic formula
Cold Savory Mousse (2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg) Base 2 lb/907 g
Liquid** 8 fI oz/240 mL (**to bloom gelatin) Aerator 16 ft oz/480 mL
Binder* 1 oz/28 g gelatin (*if required by recipe)
method at-a-glance expert tips
1. Puree or grind the main ingredient. 2. Fold in binder, if using.
Cool m ixture to correct tem perature.
Make sure that the main ingredient is the correct con sistency. Depending on the desired result, additional liquid may be added to achieve the correct consistency:
3. Gently fold in aerator. V E LO U T E / B E C H A M EL / M A Y O N N A IS E
4. Imm ediately pipe or
spoon the mousse into the desired containers.
Fold in the whipped cream or egg whites gently and only until they are just combined to achieve the best volume and finished texture.
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
949
WORKING WITH GELATIN Gelatin is used to make aspic, to stabilize foams, and
or gel strength, in a given liquid is best described in
to thicken liquid-based mixtures that will be served
terms of ounces per pint. Formulas for producing a
cold. It is added to liquid in different concentrations
variety of gel strengths can be found in the table on
to get different results. The concentration of gelatin,
page 952.
1 . Rain or sprinkle the gelatin over a cool liquid. If
clear and liquid enough to pour easily. Stir the
the liquid is warm or hot, powdered gelatin will not
melted gelatin into a warm or room-temperature
soften properly. Scattering the gelatin over the sur
base mixture.
face of the liquid prevents it from forming clumps.
2 . Rehydrate and bloom the gelatin before use. To bloom, soak it the amount of liquid specified in the recipe, which should be approximately 8 fl oz/240 mL of a water-based liquid for every 1 oz/28 g gelatin. An alternative method commonly used for blooming sheet gelatin is to soak it in enough cold water to completely submerge it. If this method is used, after blooming, gently squeeze and wring the sheet to force the excess water out, so as not to add additional liquid to the formula, which would change the consistency and flavor of the finished product.
io 5°F/41°C),
however, you may opt to add the
bloomed gelatin directly to the base, rather than melting it separately, and allow the base’s heat to melt it. Be sure to stir gelatin added this way until it is completely blended into the base. Since the product will begin to set immediately after the gelatin is added and the mixture falls below iio °F/43°C,
always prepare all molds, service con
tainers, and so on before beginning preparation. Some gelatin-stabilized items are served in their molds; others are unmolded before service. To unmold, dip the mold briefly into very hot water,
3 . After it is bloomed, melt the gelatin. To melt
quickly dry the outside, invert the mold onto a plate,
bloomed gelatin, place it in a pan or bowl over low
and tap it gently to release the item.
heat or over a hot water bath until it liquefies. As the softened gelatin warms, the mixture will become
950
If the base is cold, the gelatin may set up un evenly. If the base is quite warm or hot (at least
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
cold savory mousse
1. puree the main ingredients in a food processor or grind them with a meat grinder. For the best possible texture, sieve the pureed base. This removes any last bits of sinew or fiber fo r a very delicate end product. The base should have a consistency similar to pastry cream. It may be necessary to add a liquid or moist product such as veloute, bechamel, unwhipped cream, or mayonnaise to adjust the consistency. Cool the base over an ice bath, if the mixture is hotter than 90°F/32°C. Usually, a binder is necessary to produce the correct body. Some main ingredients, such as cheese or foie gras, may be sufficiently binding without gelatin. Add gelatin, if necessary. Hydrate the gelatin in a cool liquid. This process is known as b l o o m i n g . Warm the gelatin to 90° to 110°F/32° to 43°C to dissolve the granules. S tir the melted gelatin into the base.
method in detail 2. fold in the whipped cream
and/
or egg whites just until they are fully combined. Beat the cream or egg whites to soft peaks fo r best results. Fold this aerator into the base carefully. Add about one-third of the whipped cream firs t to make it easier to fold in the remaining two-thirds. This technique keeps the maximum volume in the finished mousse. Stirring the whipped cream in too vigorously or fo r too long will cause a loss in volume and may cause the cream to become overwhipped.
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
95i
3. pipe the mousse
into barquettes or
other containers, as desired. There are many different ways to use a mousse. It may be piped into barquette or ta rtle t shells, profiteroles, or endive spears, or used as the spread fo r a canape. It may be spooned or piped into portion-size molds; some presentations call fo r the mousse to be unmolded before service while others call for the mousse to be presented directly in the mold. A mousse can also be layered into a terrine, unmolded, and sliced for presentation. Refrigerate the mousse until needed, at least two hours if it is to be unmolded. A high-quality cold mousse should be fully flavored, delicately set, and very light in texture. The ingredients should be blended smoothly so that there are no streaks of cream or base. The color should be even and appealing.
Ratios for Gelatin Strength I
952
GEL STRENGTH
OUNCES PER PINT
USE
DELICATE
V 4 oz/7 g
When slicing is not required
COATING
V 2 oz/14
SLICEABLE
1 oz/28 g
When product is sliced (pate en croute; head cheese)
FIRM
1 V 2 oz/43 g
Chemise or underlayment on plate or platter to prevent reaction of food and metal
MOUSSE
2 oz/57 g
Used in mousse
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
g
Edible chaud-froid
|
Makes
3
lb g 02/1.62 kg
Blue Cheese Mousse Makes
2
lb
8
oz/1 .1 3 kg
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g blue cheese, crumbled 12 o z/3 4 0 g cream cheese, soft
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g diced smoked salmon 1 tb s p /lO g s a lt 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Veloute (page 294), cold V 2 tsp /1 g coarsely ground black pepper 1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin 12 fl o z /3 6 0 mL heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 2 6 4) or water, cold Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 . Puree the cheeses in a food processor until very smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
2.. Fold the whipped cream into the mousse until well blended, without any lumps.
1 . Combine the salmon and veloute in a food processor and process until smooth. Push through a sieve and
3 . Use the mousse to prepare canapes or as a filling or dip.
transfer to a medium bowl.
2 . Combine the gelatin with the cold stock, and bloom until the gelatin absorbs the liquid.
Goat Cheese Mousse: S ubstitute fresh goat cheese fo r the blue cheese.
3 . Warm the bloomed gelatin over simmering water in a pot that matches the size of the bowl until the granules dissolve and the mixture reaches 90° to no°F/32° to 43°C.
4 . Blend the gelatin into the salmon mixture. Season
Pico de Gallo Makes
1
qt/960 mL
hors d oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Smoked Salmon Mousse
with salt and pepper.
5 . Fold in the whipped cream. Shape or portion the
V 2 cu p /120 mL roughly chopped cilantro
mousse as desired. Refrigerate the mousse for at
15 medium plum tomatoes, small dice
least 2 hours to firm it.
4 serranos or jalapenos, seeded and minced 2 limes, juiced 1 medium onion, cut into small dice Salt, as needed
Combine all the ingredients in medium bowl. Adjust seasoning with salt. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for 1 to 2 hours. Serve at room temperature.
ch a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
953
Salsa Verde Asada
Salsa Verde Cruda
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
M akes 20 fl 02/600 m l
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g tomatillos
V A o z/3 5 g minced serrano chiles
9'/2 o z/2 6 9 g white onion
141/2 o z /4 1 1 g tomatillos, roughly chopped
3'/2 o z/9 9 g jalapeno
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
4 3A o z/1 3 5 g white onion, roughly chopped
1 ts p /3 g salt, plus more as needed
3/it s p /2 .5 0 g s a lt
3 o z/8 5 g cilantro, roughly chopped
2’/2 o z /7 1 g cilantro
1 . Dry roast the tomatillos, onions, jalapenos, and gar lic on a comal or in a cast-iron skillet over medium
1 . Place the serranos, tomatillos, garlic, and onions in a blender. Process until almost smooth.
heat until the tomatillos and jalapenos have blistered
2 . Season with the salt and add the cilantro. Process
and are cooked through. Let cool and peel the toma
briefly until smooth, taking care not to heat up or
tillos. Once the garlic skin begins to brown, remove
burn the cilantro with the heat from the blade. The
from the heat and peel and discard the skin. Let cool
salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for
to room temperature.
later use.
2 . Crush the garlic to a paste with the salt using a mor tar and pestle.
3 . Remove the stem and skin from the jalapenos and slice in half. Add to the garlic in the mortar and mash into a fine paste.
Salsa Roja M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
4 . Add the onions and continue mashing. 5 . Add the tomatillos, one at a time, swirling and grind
12 plum tomatoes
ing until all the tomatillos are incorporated into the
4 garlic cloves
salsa.
6 chipotle chiles, seeded and minced
6 . Mix in the cilantro and adjust seasoning with salt. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
I V 2 o z/4 3 g cilantro Salt, as needed
1 . Dry roast the tomatoes on a comal over medium heat until the tomatoes are blistered and cooked through. Remove, cool to room temperature, and peel.
2 . On the same comal, dry roast the garlic cloves until the papery skin begins to brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Peel and discard the skin.
3 . Transfer the roasted tomatoes and garlic, the chipo tle chiles, and cilantro to a blender and process until smooth.
4 . Season with salt. Add water if the salsa is too thick. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
954
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
Cumberland Sauce M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL 2 oranges 2 lemons
7 o z/1 9 8 g drained cooked black beans V2 o z/1 4 g minced shallot 7 o z/1 9 8 g small-dice ripe papaya 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g currant jelly 2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red pepper 1 tb sp /6 g dry mustard 2 o z/5 7 g small-dice red onion 12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL ruby port '/> o z/1 4 g minced jalapenos Salt, as needed 2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro Ground black pepper, as needed 1 o z/2 8 g minced ginger Pinch cayenne 2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil Pinch ground ginger 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lime juice Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Remove the zest from the oranges and lemons us ing a zester or peeler and cut into julienne. Juice the oranges and lemon and reserve.
Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
2 . Blanch the zests for 30 seconds in a small sauce pot of boiling water. Drain immediately.
3 . Combine the citrus juices, shallots, zests, jelly, mus tard, port, salt, pepper, cayenne, and ginger in a non reactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Simmer until syrupy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Grapefruit Salsa M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Papaya-Black Bean Salsa
4 . Chill the sauce over an ice water bath. The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro 2 o z/5 7 g finely diced red onion, rinsed 1 ts p /3 g seeded, minced Scotch bonnet 2 ts p /2 g chopped parsley 4 ruby red grapefruits (about 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g), segmented 2 oranges (about 6 o z/1 7 0 g), segmented V i ts p /1 .50 g salt, or as needed
1 . Combine the oil, cilantro, onions, Scotch bonnet, and parsley in a small bowl.
2 . Just before service, add the grapefruit and oranges. Season with salt.
3 . The salsa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
955
Asian Dipping Sauce M akes 32 fl ciz/960 mL 1 o z/2 8 g minced ginger
Cilantro-Lime Sauce Makes
20
portions
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 o z/5 7 g minced green onions, green and white portions
6 tb s p /9 0 mL minced ginger
2 ts p /1 0 mL vegetable oil
3 tb sp /4 5 mL Vietnamese chili paste
1 6 flo z /4 8 0 mL soy sauce
1 cu p /240 mL chopped cilantro
8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL rice wine vinegar
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL soy sauce
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL water
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice with pulp
2 ts p /4 g dry mustard
4 flo z /1 2 0 m L w a te r
1 ts p /5 mL hot bean paste
V 2 cu p /50g su g ar
2 fl o z/6 0 mL honey
1 . Mash the garlic and ginger together into a fine paste 1 . Sweat the garlic, ginger, and green onions in the oil in a small sauce pot until aromatic. Cool.
2 . Combine the sweated ingredients with the soy sauce, vinegar, water, mustard, bean paste, and honey in a medium bowl and mix thoroughly.
using a mortar and pestle. Transfer the mixture into a bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved.
2 . Let the sauce rest for 10 minutes before tasting and adjusting seasoning.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be cooled and refrigerated for later use.
Vietnamese Dipping Sauce Makes 32 f l 02/960 mL 20 Thai chiles, red and/or green 4 garlic cloves, minced 4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL warm water 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL lime juice 8 fI o z/2 4 0 mL fish sauce V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely shredded carrots
1 . Slice 10 of the chiles into thin rings and set aside for garnish. Mince the remaining chiles and transfer them to a medium bowl.
2 . Add the garlic, sugar, water, lime juice, and fish sauce. Whisk to dissolve the sugar. Add the reserved chiles and carrots. Rest the sauce for 10 minutes.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL
1 o z/2 8 g finely shredded carrots
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL plain yogurt
2 o z/5 7 g finely shredded daikon
1 lb /4 5 4 g cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and cut into small dice
B'/2 o z/9 9 g sugar V 2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic ]/2
o z/1 4 g minced red chiles
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL lime or lemon juice 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL rice wine vinegar 4 fI o z/1 2 0 mL Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc m am ) 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL water
1 tb s p /9 g minced garlic 2 ts p /4 g ground cumin 1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Place the yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer. Set the strainer in a bowl and drain at least 8 hours in
1 . Mix the carrots and daikon with 1 oz/28 g of the sugar in a medium bowl and let stand for 15 minutes,
2.. Combine the garlic, chiles, and the remaining sugar in a food processor and puree until smooth. Add the lime juice, vinegar, fish sauce, and water and puree, making sure that the sugar is dissolved. Combine with the carrot and daikon mixture.
the refrigerator.
2 . Combine the yogurt and cucumbers. Add the garlic, cumin, turmeric, salt, and pepper.
3 . The sauce can be served chunky or pureed until smooth. It is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use. Stir the sauce and adjust seasoning if necessary before serving.
3 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Spring Roll Dipping Sauce
ated for later use.
ch a p te r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
957
Guacamole M akes 32 fl
0Z /9 6 0
mL
4 . Adjust seasoning and consistency, if necessary. Gar nish with paprika and parsley. The hummus is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
5 Hass avocados 2 plum tomatoes, cut into small dice 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced red onion 3 serranos, seeded and finely minced 2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro
Baba Ghanoush M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
2 limes, juiced
4 lb/1.81 kg eggplants (about 4)
Salt, as needed
6 o z/1 7 0 g tahini 3 garlic cloves, minced
1 . Seed and peel the avocados and cut roughly into me
6 ft o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice
dium dice. Combine the avocados with the tomatoes, onions, serranos, cilantro, and lime juice and mix
Salt, as needed
well, smashing the avocados a little to form a rough
Ground black pepper, as needed
paste.
I V 2 o z/4 3 g chopped parsley (optional)
2 . Season with salt. The guacamole is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use. NOTE: It is best to make guacamole the same day it is to be served.
1 . Slice the eggplants in half lengthwise. Place cut side down on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Roast in a 450°F/232°C oven until the skin is charred and the interior is fully cooked, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let the eggplant stand until cool enough to handle.
2 . Scrape the eggplant pulp from the skin into a food
Hummus bi Tahini
processor. Add the tahini, garlic, lemon juice, salt,
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
neous. If it is too thick, add 2 tbsp/30 mL water and
and pepper. Blend until the mixture is homoge continue blending.
12 o z/3 40 g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
3 . When the mixture is smooth, add the parsley, if
5 fl o z/1 50 mL lemon juice
using, and pulse to incorporate. The consistency
3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt
should be lightly spreadable, but not too loose. Ad
3 f I o z/9 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 4 '/2 o z /1 2 8 g tahini
just seasoning with salt and pepper.
4 . The baba ghanoush is ready to serve now, or may be refrigerated for later use.
Salt, as needed Paprika, as needed 1 o z/2 8 g chopped parsley
1 . Boil the chickpeas in water in a medium pot until tender, 1 to 2 hours. Drain the chickpeas, reserving the cooking liquid.
2 . In a food processor, blend the chickpeas with about 4 fl oz/120 mL of cooking liquid until they become a smooth paste.
3 . Add the lemon juice, garlic, oil, tahini, and salt. Pro cess until well incorporated.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Makes 24 fl oz/720 mL
Tapenade Makes 32 f l
0 Z/960
mL
2 or 3 dried habaneros
10 o z/2 8 4 g pitted green olives, rinsed
1 lb /4 5 4 g red chiles, seeded and stemmed
10 o z/2 8 4 g pitted black nigoise olives, rinsed
4 o z/1 1 3 g sun-dried tomatoes
6 o z/1 7 0 g capers, rinsed
3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tb sp /6 g ground turmeric
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lemon juice
V2
tsp /1 g ground coriander
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
V2
tsp /1 g ground cumin
Ground black pepper, as needed
V2
tsp /1 g caraway seeds, toasted and ground
2 tb sp /6 g chopped oregano
V2
ts p /2 .5 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
2 tb sp /6 g basil chiffonade
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL olive oil, or as needed 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL water, or as needed V2
ts p /1 .50 g salt, or as needed
1 . Combine the olives, capers, and garlic in a food processor. Blend, incorporating the lemon juice and 011 slowly, until the mixture is chunky and easy to spread. Do not overprocess.
1 . Toast the habaneros in a saute pan until the skin darkens and a small amount of smoke rises, about 15 seconds on each side.
2 . Rehydrate the habaneros by covering them with
2 . Season with pepper and add the oregano and basil. 3 . The tapenade is ready to serve now, or may be refrig erated for later use.
warm water. When they are soft and hydrated, re move the stems and seeds.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Harissa
3 . Place the habaneros, red chiles, tomatoes, garlic, tur meric, coriander, cumin, caraway seeds, lemon juice, and olive oil in a blender and blend until smooth and homogeneous.
4 . Adjust the consistency with water, lemon juice, and oil. Season with salt.
5 . The harissa is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
959
Z'hu:
Wasabi
M akes 32 fl 0Z/960 mL
M akes 8 fl oz/240 m l
3 lb 4 o z/1.47 kg jalapenos
5'/2 o z/1 5 6 g wasabi powder
IV
Warm water, as needed
4
o z/5 0 g garlic, chopped
7 o z/1 9 8 g cilantro leaves 3’/> o z/9 9 g parsley leaves
1 . Place the wasabi powder in a small bowl. Add enough of the water to achieve a smooth paste. Wrap
372 o z/9 9 g mint leaves 4 ts p /8 g cumin seeds, toasted and ground 4 ts p /1 0 g ground cardamom pods, peeled, seeded and toasted
the bowl tightly with plastic wrap.
2 . Allow the wasabi to sit for about 10 minutes, or until the flavors develop.
3 . The wasabi is ready to serve now, or it may be refrig 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
erated for later use.
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed Salt, as needed
NOTES: Stand back when mixing the wasabi powder with the water, as the fumes that rise w ill burn your eyes.
Ground black pepper, as needed For a less pungent taste, sub stitute cold water fo r the warm water.
1 . Roast the jalapenos under a salamander or over an open flame. Set aside, covered. When cool enough to handle, peel.
2 . Place the jalapenos, garlic, cilantro, parsley, mint, cumin, and cardamom in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.
3 . Slowly add the oil while continuing to puree. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
4 . The sauce is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL 8 o z/2 2 7 g minced red onions 1 fl o z/3 0 mL olive oil 4 roasted peppers, peeled and seeded, cut into brunoise
Spicy Mustard M akes 8 fl oz/240 mL 3 o z/8 5 g dry mustard
2 o z/5 7 g finely chopped capers V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
Pinch salt Pinch sugar 2 fl o z/6 0 mL cool water, or as needed
1 . Sweat the onions in the oil until translucent. Cool to room temperature.
2 . Combine the onions, peppers, capers, and chives and 1 . Place the mustard in a small bowl with the salt and sugar.
2 . Gradually stir in the water to obtain the desired con sistency. The mustard should be the consistency of a smooth, thick, heavy cream.
3 . Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the mus tard to sit for 15 minutes before serving.
960
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
season with salt and pepper. Allow the mixture to marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes.
3 . The marmalade is ready to serve now, or it may be refrigerated for later use.
M akes 32 fl oz/<)6o mL
2 . Transfer the mixture to a medium saucepan, add the vinegar, bring to a boil, and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes.
12 o z/3 4 0 g cranberries 3 fl o z/9 0 mL orange juice 3 f I o z/9 0 mL triple sec 3 o z/8 5 g sugar, or as needed 1 o z/2 8 g minced orange zest
3 . Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for an addi tional 10 minutes, stir in the turmeric, and simmer 5 minutes more, or until the chutney has thickened to the correct consistency.
4 . The chutney is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
10 o z/2 8 4 g orange supremes Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Combine the cranberries, orange juice, triple sec,
Curried Onion Relish M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
sugar, and zest in a small saucepan and stir to combine.
2 . Cover the saucepan and simmer over low heat, stir ring occasionally. When the berries burst and the liquid starts to thicken, 15 to 20 minutes, remove the
1 lb /4 5 4 g small-dice onion 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL distilled white vinegar 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar V 2 o z/1 4 g pickling spice, tied into a sachet
saucepan from the heat and add the supremes. Sea son with salt and pepper. Adjust the sweetness with sugar.
3 . The relish is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly
1 tb sp /9 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) V* ts p /0 .7 5 g minced garlic Salt, as needed
cooled and refrigerated for later use.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Cranberry Relish
1 . Combine all the ingredients in a medium nonreac tive saucepan and mix well.
Spicy Mango Chutney M akes 16 fl oz/480 mL
2 . Simmer over low heat, covered but stirring often, for 30 minutes, until thickened to the appropriate consistency, about 30 minutes. Be careful not to let it scorch. Remove the sachet.
1 lb /4 5 4 g peeled, diced mango 3 o z/8 5 g raisins
3 . The relish is ready to serve now, or may be rapidly cooled and refrigerated for later use.
2 ts p /6 g minced jalapeno V i o z/1 4 g minced garlic V i o z/1 4 g minced ginger 5 o z/1 4 2 g dark brown sugar 2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine vinegar Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1 ts p /2 g ground turmeric
1 . Combine the mangos, raisins, jalapenos, garlic, gin ger, and sugar in a nonreactive container. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Chapter 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
961
Pickled Ginger
Tortilla Chips
M akes 1 lb/454 g
M akes 10 servings
1 lb /4 5 4 g ginger, peeled
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying
2 tb s p /8 g s e a s a lt
Cayenne, as needed
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL rice wine vinegar
V A
5V2 o z /156 g sugar
20 corn tortillas, cut in wedges
o z/3 5 g salt
8 shiso leaves, chiffonade
1 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a deep pot over me 1 . Slice the peeled ginger very thin using a Japanese mandoline.
2 . Place the ginger slices in a medium nonreactive bowl with 1 tsp/5 g of the salt for 10 minutes. Rinse in hot water and drain well.
3 . Place the vinegar, sugar, shiso, and the remaining
dium heat.
2 . Combine the cayenne and salt thoroughly in a small cup. Reserve.
3 . Working in batches if necessary, fry the tortilla wedges until crisp, stirring to cook evenly.
4 . Remove the chips with a spider or slotted spoon and
salt in a small pot and bring to a boil. Pour the vin
drain on paper towels. Season lightly with the cay
egar mixture over the ginger and cool to room tem
enne salt and serve.
perature. Allow the ginger to pickle overnight.
4 . The ginger is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
Seviche of Scallops M akes 10 servings
Pickled Red Onions M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL 1 habanero 1 lb /4 5 4 g thinly sliced red onions 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL orange juice or lime juice Salt, as needed
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g sea scallops, muscle tabs removed, thinly sliced 10 o z/2 8 4 g peeled and seeded tomatoes, cut into small dice 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL lemon or lime juice 3 o z/8 5 g red onion, cut into thin rings 2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil 2 o z/5 7 g green onions, green and white parts, cut on the bias
1 . Roast the habanero under a salamander or over an open flame until the skin has blistered and charred
'/2
o z/1 4 g minced jalapeno
slightly. Set aside, covered. When cool enough to
4 tb sp /1 2 g roughly chopped cilantro
handle, peel it, remove the seeds, and finely chop.
l
2 . Combine the onions, juice, and half of the chopped
'/2
ts p /5 g salt
1 ts p /3 g mashed garlic
habanero in a medium bowl. Toss well to coat. Mari nate the mixture in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
3 . Mix the onions and season with salt and additional habanero, if necessary.
4 . The onions are ready to serve now, or may be refrig erated for later use.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1 . Combine all of the ingredients gently in a large mix ing bowl, so that the scallops do not tear.
2 . Transfer the mixture to a nonreactive container and marinate the scallops in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours.
3 . Serve chilled.
Makes10servings
Smoked Salmon Platter Makes20servings
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg wild striped bass fillets, skin on
1 smoked salmon fille t (approximately 3 lb/1.36 kg)
8 fl o z/2 4 0 g lime juice
3 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page 866), whites and yolks separated and finely chopped
2 ts p /6.50 g salt, or as needed 8 f I o z/2 4 0 g tomato juice 3 tb sp /4 5 mL extra virgin olive oil 1 ts p /2 g dried oregano Sugar, as needed (optional) 3 o z/8 5 g small-dice white onion 6 o z/1 7 0 g small-dice Roma tomatoes 1 o z/2 8 g chopped serrano chile 3 '/t o z/9 2 g chopped pitted green manzanilla olives
3 tb s p /4 5 mL rinsed and drained capers 5 o z/1 4 2 g minced red onion 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL creme fratche 1 tb s p /3 g chopped dill 1 baguette, toasted and sliced
1 . Slice the salmon very thin on the bias, starting from the tail.
2 . Arrange the salmon on a platter and garnish with
2 tb sp /6 g chopped cilantro
separate piles of the chopped egg white, chopped egg
7 o z /1 98 g diced avocado
yolks, capers, and onions.
Tortilla Chips (page 962)
3 . Combine the creme fraiche and dill. Serve the sal mon with the dill creme fraiche and toasted bread.
1 . Cut the fish into small cubes, against the grain of the flesh, and place in a nonreactive bowl.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco
2 . Add the lime juice and salt and toss the fish until well incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and re frigerate until the fish is “cooked,” about 2 hours.
3 . Mix together the tomato juice, olive oil, oregano, and salt to taste. (Depending on the brand of tomato juice you may need to add a small amount of sugar to cut the acidity.)
4 . Before service, drain the fish and reserve the juices. Mix in the onions, tomatoes, chiles, olives, cilantro, and the prepared tomato juice. Add the reserved juices to taste. Adjust seasoning with salt.
5 . Immediately before serving, mix in the diced avocados. 6 . Serve the ceviche in a wide-mouthed glass with tor tilla chips. NOTE: Any m edium -activity saltw ater f ish w ill work in this recipe. It is best to use the freshest fish possible.
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
963
Makes10servings
1 . To make the salsa cruda, combine all the ingredi ents. Reserve.
2 . With a very sharp knife, cut the tuna in 21/2-oz/7i-g slices. Place each slice of tuna between i pieces of plastic wrap and pound it paper thin, being careful
SALSA CRUDA 11 f I o z/3 3 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil 4 o z/1 13 g salted capers, rinsed 2 V i oz/71 g thinly sliced celery hearts 2 '/t o z/6 4 g red onion, cut into brunoise 2 o z/5 7 g picholine olives, pitted and roughly chopped
not to tear through the tuna. Refrigerate.
3 . To make the croutons, heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high to high heat. Pan fry the bread until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels. Season with salt and pepper.
4 . To make the salad, combine the frisee, arugula, endive, celery leaves, radishes, and fennel fronds.
2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley
Dress lightly with l tbsp/15 mL of the lemon juice
2 ts p /6 g lemon zest, cut into julienne and blanched
and 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil. Season with salt and pepper.
2 garlic cloves, minced 1 jalapeno, seeded, cut into brunoise
!d . To assemble each serving, place a piece of pounded tuna carefully in the center of a plate. Place 3 tbsp/45
Salt, as needed
mL of the salsa cruda on the tuna and spread evenly.
Ground black pepper, as needed
Sprinkle croutons over the tuna and place a very small amount of salad in the middle of the tuna.
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g trimmed big eye or yellowfin tuna loin
Place 3 olives per plate around the tuna. Garnish with salt and pepper and a drizzle of the remaining
CROUTONS
lemon juice and olive oil. Serve immediately.
16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed for frying
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta)
12 o z/3 4 0 g white bread, crusts removed, cut into brunoise Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed SALAD 4 o z/1 1 3 g frisee hearts 4 o z/1 1 3 g baby arugula leaves 4 o z/1 1 3 g endive spears, thinly sliced V i o z/1 4 g celery leaves 6 radishes, cut into julienne 4 o z/1 1 3 gfennelfronds 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice 2 fl o z/6 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed GARNISH 30 olives
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D 'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
965
Coconut Macadamia Shrimp
Makes10servings
M ARINADE
Clams Casino Makes10servings 4 o z /1 13 g diced bacon 4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion 3 o z/8 5 g minced green pepper
2 tb sp /3 0 mL hoisin sauce
3 o z/8 5 g minced red pepper
2 tb sp /3 0 mL dry sherry
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter
1 tb sp /1 5 mL rice wine vinegar
Salt, as needed
1 tb sp /1 5 mL soy sauce
Ground black pepper, as needed
I V 2 ts p /5 g salt
1 ts p /5 mL Worcestershire sauce, or as needed
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
40 littleneck or cherrystone clams
'A ts p /0.50 g ground black pepper
10 bacon strips, blanched and cut into julienne
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled (tail on) and butterf lied
1 . In a small saute pan, render the diced bacon over
BATTER
low to medium heat until crisp. Add the onions and
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour
move from the heat and let cool.
2 o z/5 7 g ground macadamia nuts
peppers and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Re
2 . Place the butter in a medium mixing bowl and soft
l ' A ts p /8 g baking soda
en slightly. Season with salt, pepper, and Worcester
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
shire. Add the bacon mixture and blend until evenly
1 egg, beaten
mixed.
3 . Scrub the clams and discard any that are open. Re 4 1 /2
o z/1 2 8 g all-purpose flour, for dredging
3 o z/8 5 g freshly grated coconut
move the top shells from the clams and loosen the meat from the bottom shells. Top each clam with about V2 oz/14 g ° f the butter mixture and 1V2 tsp/5 g
1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
of the bacon julienne. Broil the clams until the ba
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Asian Dipping Sauce (page 956)
con is crisp and serve immediately.
1 . To make the marinade, mix together all the ingredi ents in a medium bowl. Add the shrimp, toss to coat evenly, and marinate for 1 hour.
2 . To make the batter, mix the flour, nuts, baking soda, coconut milk, and egg with a whisk in a bowl.
3 . Drain away excess marinade from the shrimp. Dredge the shrimp in flour and dip into the batter, up to the tail. Dredge the shrimp in the coconut, pressing light ly to flatten the shrimp and help the coconut adhere. Place on a wire rack over a sheet pan. Refrigerate for 1 hour to allow the breading to set.
4 . Heat the oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy deep pot and deep fry the shrimp until golden brown and cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels. Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes with Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade (page 960)
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic
Makes 10 servings
Makes 10 servings
1 shallot, minced
4 o z/1 1 3 g dried bread crumbs
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
V2 o z/1 4 g minced garlic
13 fl o z/3 9 0 mL Mayonnaise (page 903)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
2 eggs, beaten
1 tb sp /3 g chopped oregano
5 f I o z/1 5 0 mL Pommery mustard
6 o z/1 7 0 g butter, melted
3 tb sp /9 g chopped parsley
I V 2 ts p /5 g salt
2 bunches chives, minced
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
IV * ts p /6 .2 5 mL hot sauce
l i b 12 o z /7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and butterflied
2 o z/5 7 g Old Bay seasoning 2 lb 8 o z/1 .1 3 kg blue crabmeat, picked
1 . Combine the bread crumbs, garlic, parsley, oregano,
3 3/4 o z/1 0 6 g saltine cracker crumbs
and 4 oz/113 g ° f the butter in a medium bowl. Sea
Salt, as needed
son with the salt and pepper.
Ground black pepper, as needed Peanut oil, as needed 16 fl o z /4 8 0 mL Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade (page 960)
2 . For each serving, arrange 2 to 4 shrimp on a gratin dish and brush them with some of the remaining butter.
3 . Place 1 to 2 tsp/4 to 8 g of the bread crumb mixture on the shrimp and place them in a 4500F/232°C oven
1 . Sweat the shallots in the vegetable oil in a small saute pan until translucent. Cool.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes
until they are very hot and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately
2 . Combine the shallots, mayonnaise, eggs, mustard, parsley, chives, hot sauce, and Old Bay. Fold the may onnaise mixture into the crabmeat without shred ding. Fold in the cracker crumbs. Season with salt and pepper.
3 . Divide the mixture into 2-oz/57-g servings and form into small cakes 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter and % in/2 cm thick.
4 . Saute the crab cakes in peanut oil in a cast-iron griswold over medium-high heat until golden brown and cooked through, 2 minutes on each side. Drain briefly on paper towels.
5 . Serve immediately.
c h a p te r 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T IZ E R S
969
S tuffed Shrimp
Samosas
Makes
Makes
10
servings
10
servings
1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted
DOUGH
2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs
12 o z/3 4 0 g all-purpose flour
CRAB STUFFING
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL water, warm
1 o z/2 8 g minced onion
3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil
l ' / 2 o z/4 3 g minced green onions, green and white portions
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt FILLING
V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter 8 o z/2 2 7 g small-dice onions V / i o z/4 3 g all-purpose flour I V 2 o z/4 3 g butter 2V2 fl o z/7 5 mL white wine 1 tb sp /9 g minced ginger 3 fl o z/9 0 mL heavy cream 2 ts p /6 g minced garlic 7 o z/1 9 8 g crabmeat, picked to remove cartilage 2 ts p /6 g minced serranos Salt, as needed 3A ts p /1 .5 0 g crushed coriander Ground black pepper, as needed 2 ts p /6 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased) 2 tb sp /30 mL lemon juice, or as needed 1 tb sp /1 5 mL tomato paste 1 lb 12 o z /7 9 4 g shrimp (1 6 /2 0 count), peeled and butterflied
1 . Combine the melted butter and bread crumbs in a small cup and set aside.
2 . Saute the onions and green onions in the butter in a small sautoir over medium heat until tender. Add
1 tb sp /1 5 mL lemon juice 1 lb /4 5 4 g fine-dice shrimp 8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL Fish Fumet (page 264)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed 1 q t/9 6 0 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
the flour and cook until smooth and glossy, 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in the wine and cook for 1 minute.
1 . Mix all the ingredients for the dough in a medium
Add the cream and bring to a boil, stirring con
bowl until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let
stantly. Cook until thickened, 5 minutes. Gently fold
rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
in the crabmeat. The stuffing should be very thick.
2 . To make the filling, saute the onions in the butter in
If not, simmer it longer to thicken. Season with salt,
a medium sautoir until translucent. Add the ginger,
pepper, and lemon juice. Refrigerate.
garlic, serranos, coriander, and curry powder and
3 . Stuff the shrimp with the cooled crabmeat mixture and sprinkle with the buttered bread crumbs.
4 . Bake in a 420°F/2i6°C oven until hot and browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
saute until the aroma is strong, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste, lemon juice, and shrimp. Saute for 2 minutes without browning. Add the stock and simmer until almost all the liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate.
3 . Roll the dough in a pasta machine until very thin. Cut into strips 2 by 8 in/5 by 20 cm-
4 . Place a small amount of filling (1 to 2 tbsp/15 to 30 mL) on the end of a strip of dough and fold up into a tri angle as you would a flag. Seal the end with egg wash.
5 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C. Deep fry the samosas until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve while still very hot.
970
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Makes
10
servings
6
eggs, lightly beaten
7 o z /1 9 8 g panko bread crumbs 2 o z/5 7 g matzo meal 8
fl o z /2 4 0 mL peanut oil
1 . To make the mango ketchup, simmer the tomatoes and mangos in a sauce pot over low heat until thick, about 25 minutes.
MANGO KETCHUP lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g tomatoes, rough chop
1
5 lb 3 o z/2.35 kg mangos, rough chop 10 o z/2 8 4 g brown sugar
2 . Transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Strain into a clean sauce pot.
3 . Add the brown sugar, vinegar, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves and bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until it reduces to a ketchup-like consis
f I o z/2 4 0 mL cider vinegar
8
3/ t oz/ 2
g ginger, minced
1
’/ 2
o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon
'/2
tsp / 1 g ground cloves
tency, about 2 hours. Let the mixture cool completely and strain once more. Refrigerate until needed.
4 . To make the portobello mushrooms, remove the stems and gills from the mushrooms and clean them well. Transfer them to a shallow hotel pan.
PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS 10 6 '/2
portobello mushrooms fl o z/1 9 5 mL peanut oil
2 V i fl o z/7 5 mL rice wine vinegar 2 tb sp /1 3 g green onion, green and white parts, minced 1 ts p /3 g salt V* tsp /.5 0 g ground black pepper
5 . Combine the oil, vinegar, green onions, salt, and pepper to make a marinade. Pour the marinade over the mushrooms. Marinate the mushrooms, turning once, for 1 hour. Remove the mushrooms from the marinade.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup
6 . Roast the mushrooms in a 350°F/i77°C oven until the mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes.
7 . To make the tofu cakes, combine the carrots, cel ery, onions, and red and yellow peppers in a sieve.
TOFU CAKES
Add 1 tbsp/10 g of the salt and let drain for 1 hour.
2 lb /9 0 7 g carrots, grated
Press the vegetables to release excess liquid.
4 o z/1 1 3 g celery, grated 4 o z/1 1 3 g onion, grated
8 . Press the tofu in a perforated hotel pan to release excess liquid. Crumble the tofu and transfer to a large bowl. Add the vegetables to the tofu. Add
2 o z/5 7 g red pepper, minced
the green onions, garlic, walnuts, parsley, thyme,
2 o z/5 7 g yellow pepper, minced
the remaining salt, and the pepper hot sauce, and
l
sesame oil, and toss to combine.
’/ 2
tb sp /1 5 g salt
1 lb 9 o z/7 0 9 g firm tofu 8
o z/2 2 7 g green onions, minced
2
tsp / 6 g minced garlic
7 o z /1 9 8 g walnuts, ground 2
tbsp / 1
2
g chopped parsley
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme 1
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper
1 ts p /5 mL hot sauce
9 . Add the eggs, panko, and matzo meal. The mix ture should be dry enough to hold together when pressed. If needed, add more panko. Form the mix ture into 7 oz/198 g cakes.
10. Heat the oil in a large rondeau over medium heat. Saute the cakes until lightly browned on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Finish the cakes in a 350°F/i77°C oven until heated through, about 10 minutes more. Serve hot with the mushrooms and mango ketchup.
1 ts p /5 mL sesame oil, or as needed
Chapter 29 » HORS D'O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
971
Pescado Frito Makes10servings ANCHOVIES
2 . Remove the anchovies from the marinade, drain, and open them up like a book. Lay them flat in flour, and gently press them in the flour on both sides.
3 . For the calamares, combine the flour, Parmesan, and parsley in a medium bowl. Season the squid with salt
3 garlic cloves, crushed with salt 1 tb sp /6 g sweet pimenton or paprika 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL white wine vinegar 2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cumin 1 tb sp /6 g dried oregano
and pepper and dredge in the flour mixture. Allow the squid to rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
4 . Season the flounder with salt and pepper. Combine the parsley and bread crumbs. Coat the flounder with the flour, eggs, and bread crumb mixture us ing the standard breading procedure (see page 365).
3 bay leaves
Allow the flounder to rest in the refrigerator for 10
16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL cold water
minutes.
1 lb /4 5 4 g fresh anchovies or smelts, gutted 12 o z/3 4 0 g all-purpose flour
5 . Heat the oil to 375°F/i9i°C in a heavy deep pot. Combine the pepper flakes and tomato sauce and reserve.
CALAMARI
6 . Working in batches, deep fry the anchovies, squid, 9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour
Drain the fried fish on paper towels to remove excess
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
oil. Season with salt and serve immediately with the
1 lb /4 5 4 g squid, cleaned and cut into rings Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed FLOUNDER FILLETS 1 lb /4 5 4 g flounder fillets, cut on the diagonal into strips V i in / I cm wide Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 4 tb sp /1 2 g chopped parsley 8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh bread crumbs 9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour 8 eggs, lightly beaten
1 q t/9 6 0 mL olive oil 1 ts p /2 g red pepper flakes 20 f I o z/6 0 0 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295) Salt, as needed
1 . Combine the garlic, pimenton, vinegar, cumin, oreg ano, and bay leaves in a medium bowl. Add the cold water and mix well. Add the anchovies and carefully mix with the marinade. Marinate the anchovies in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours.
972
and flounder until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.
3 o z/8 5 g grated Parmesan
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
tomato sauce.
Tuna and Bean Salad
( M o u l e s
F a g i o I i)
a
la
Mar/mere) Makes 10 servings 4 lb/1.81 kg mussels 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter 3 medium shallots, minced 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine 1
tsp / 1 g chopped thyme
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed 1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped parsley
( I n s a l a t a
d i
T o n n o
e
Makes 10 servings 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g dried white beans, soaked overnight and drained
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g thinly sliced red onion, soaked in cold water for 1 hour 1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g drained imported olive oil-packed tuna 2 tb s p /3 0 mL red wine vinegar, or as needed 4 '/ 2
fl o z/1 3 5 mL extra-virgin olive oil
Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
1 . Cook the beans in a large sauce pot of water over medium-low heat until tender, about 45 minutes.
1 . Scrub and debeard the mussels. Discard any that are open.
2 . Melt l oz/28 g of the butter in a large sauteuse or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes.
3 . Add the wine and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Allow the mixture to simmer for 2 to 3 min utes. Add the mussels, cover, and cook over high heat, shaking the pan often so that all of the mussels
Drain and rinse under cold water.
2 . In a large bowl, combine the beans, onions, tuna, vinegar, and oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss gently to combine.
3 . Adjust seasoning with vinegar, salt, and pepper, if
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Mussels with White Wine and Shallots
necessary.
4 . The salad is ready to serve now, or may be refriger ated for later use.
open at about the same time, 2 to 3 minutes. Take off the cover, remove the mussels as they open, and transfer them to warm serving platter. When all of the mussels have opened, strain the cooking broth through a fine sieve.
4 . Wipe out the pan and return the broth to it. Bring the liquid to a boil and cook briefly over high heat until slightly syrupy, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk the remaining butter into the broth, a little at a time.
5 . Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Pour the broth over the mussels, garnish with the parsley, and serve immediately.
ch a p t e r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
975
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean) Makes 10 servings
6 . To make the black ink sauce, add the onions, pep pers, and garlic to the pan and saute until caramel ized, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato puree and cook until rust colored.
7 . Deglaze with the wine and reduce by half. Add the squid ink and the juices from reserved squid to the sauce. Puree the sauce in a blender until smooth.
20
baby squid
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL olive oil
Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. 8 . Combine the squid with the sauce and simmer over
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced onion
very low heat until it is tender and the sauce has
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced green pepper
slightly reduced, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
4 o z/1 1 3 g minced Serrano ham 2 o z/5 7 g dried bread crumbs Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed BLACK INK SAUCE 8
o z/2 27 g minced onion
8
o z/2 2 7 g minced green pepper
Octopus “Fairground Style” (Pulpo a Feira) Makes 10 servings 2
onions, roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1
bay leaf
4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL tomato puree
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
8
f I o z/ 240 mL white wine
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL squid ink
4 lb/1.81 kg octopus 1
o z/2 8 g pimenton or smoked paprika
8
fl o z/2 4 0 mL extra-virgin olive oil
1 . Clean the squid. Remove the tentacles and cut them into small pieces, about Va in/6 mm.
2 . Heat 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil in a medium saute pan over high heat. Add the tentacles and saute briefly.
1 . Bring a large stockpot of water to a boil with the on ions, bay leaf, and 1V2 tsp/5 g ° f the salt.
2 . Holding the octopus by its body, plunge the octopus
Remove the tentacles from the pan with the released
tentacles in and out of boiling water in 5-second in
juices and reserve separately.
crements; repeat 3 times.
3 . In the same pan, over medium heat, heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the oil, add the onions and peppers, and cook slowly until caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add the ham and cook for 2 minutes more. Mix in the re served tentacles and the bread crumbs. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the filling from the pan and let it rest until cool enough to handle.
4 . Stuff each squid with the filling and secure it with a toothpick.
5 . Heat the remaining 2 fl oz/6o mL of oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sear the stuffed squid until lightly browned and slightly firmed, about 2 minutes on each side. Remove the squid from the pan and reserve.
B RE A K F A S T A N D GA R D E M A N G E R
3 . Place the entire octopus back in the water and sim mer until the octopus is tender, about 1V2 hours.
4 . Remove the octopus and reserve the liquid. Allow the octopus to rest until cool enough to handle. Peel the octopus and cut into i-in/3-cm pieces.
5 . For service, bring the cooking liquid to a simmer. Submerge a single order of octopus in the liquid for 30 seconds to reheat. Drain, plate, and sprinkle with pimenton and salt. Drizzle 1 to 2 tbsp/15 t° 30 mL olive oil and serve immediately.
Makes 10 servings 2 o z/5 7 g pork fatback
. Smooth the paste with oiled hands. Reserve on an oiled plate. Repeat with the remaining paste and sugarcane. . Steam the skewers until the shrimp paste is firm and opaque, 2 to 5 minutes. Reserve until service. . Grill the skewers until the shrimp paste is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Brush with green onion oil and serve immediately.
1 tb s p /1 5 mL peanut oil, plus as needed for shaping 2
medium shallots, minced
12 o z/3 4 0 g shrimp (3 1 /3 5 count), peeled and deveined, roughly chopped 2 ts p /1 0 mL fish sauce ’/ 2
0 z /1 4 g sugar
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic le g g 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground white pepper V i o z/1 4 g cornstarch I V 2 ts p /4.50 g baking powder 2
green onions, green and white portions, thinly sliced
10 pieces sugarcane, fresh or canned, 4 in/10 cm long, no greater than I/ 2 in/ 1 cm wide 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Green Onion Oil (page 907)
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane (Chao Tom)
1 . Blanch the fatback in boiling water for about 10 min utes. Drain and mince finely.
2 . Heat the peanut oil in a medium saute pan over medi um-high heat and saute the shallots until translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Combine the shallots and fatback in a medium bowl and cool to room temperature.
3 . Add the shrimp, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, egg, pepper, cornstarch, and baking powder. Mix well to evenly coat the shrimp.
4 . Transfer the mixture to a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Pulse just until a smooth paste forms. Do not overmix or it will become tough.
5 . Scrape into to a medium bowl. Stir in the green onions. Test the mixture and adjust seasoning if nec essary. 6 . With wet hands, form about 1 oz/28 g of the paste into a ball. Flatten the paste in your palm and place a sugarcane skewer on top, leaving about V2 in/i cm clear on each end. Close your hand to wrap the paste around the skewer and press the paste to adhere tightly (the paste should be about Vi in/i cm thick).
c h a p t e r 29 » HORS D’O E U V R E A N D A P P E T I ZE R S
977
Mushroom Strudel with Goat Cheese Makes 12 servings
side down onto a half sheet pan. Brush the top of the strudel with more of the melted butter. Repeat the process to form a total of 4 strudels.
7 . Bake in a 375°F/ic)i0C oven until golden brown and crisp, 30 to 35 minutes. Slice each strudel into 6.
2 fl o z/6 0 mL olive oil
Serve 2 slices for each portion with sauce and sour
4 lb/1.81 kg mushrooms, sliced V a in/ 6 mm thick
cream.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely chopped shallot V 2 o z/1 4 g finely chopped garlic 4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry sherry
Black Bean Cakes
12 o z/3 4 0 g goat cheese, at room temperature Makes 10 servings V 2 o z/1 4 g minced chives 1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme
14 o z/3 9 7 g dried black beans, soaked and drained
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
3 q t/2 .8 8 L Vegetable Stock (page 2 6 5) or water
1
tsp / 2 g ground black pepper
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vegetable oil
12 phyllo dough sheets, 11 by 16 in /2 8 by 41 cm
3 o z/8 5 g minced onion
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted
V 2 o z/1 4 g minced jalapeno
14 f I o z/4 2 0 mL Madeira Sauce (page 463), warm
1 tb sp /9 g minced garlic
2 fl o z/6 0 mL sour cream
3/4 ts p /1 .5 0 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased) 3/ t ts p /1 .5 0 g ground cumin
1 . Heat l tbsp/15 mL of the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. In batches, saute the mushrooms
3/ t ts p /1.50 g ground cardamom 1
tsp / 1 g roughly chopped cilantro
until golden brown. Drain and reserve any liquid that accumulates in the pan. Remove the mush rooms and set aside.
2 . In the same pan, saute the shallots and garlic until the shallots are lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add back the sauteed mushrooms.
3 . Reduce the heat to medium-low and deglaze the pan with the sherry. Add any reserved mushroom
1 ts p /5 mL lime juice 1
egg white
lt b s p /lO g s a lt V 2 tsp / 1 g ground black pepper 4 o z/1 1 3 gcornmeal V / 2 o z/4 3 g butter
juice and cook until the liquid reduces and becomes
GARNISH
slightly syrupy, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mush
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL sour cream
room mixture to a medium bowl and cool to room temperature.
4 . Stir in the goat cheese, chives, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper.
5 . Keep the phyllo covered with plastic wrap and a damp cloth to prevent them from drying. For each strudel, brush 1 sheet of phyllo dough with butter. Repeat to create a total of 5 layers. 6 . Spread one-quarter of the filling over the top sheet
5 fl o z /1 5 0 mL Pico de Gallo (page 953)
1 . Put the beans and stock in a large stockpot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, covered, until tender. Uncover and continue to cook slowly until the stock is reduced by half.
2 . Drain off and reserve the cooking liquid. Working in batches if necessary, puree two-thirds of the beans in a blender or food processor with some of the cook
of phyllo, leaving a i-in/3-cm space around the edges
ing liquid to create a smooth paste. Recombine with
of the dough. Roll tightly, starting on the long side
the remaining whole beans.
and folding in the edges, to form a log. Place seam
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
garlic, chili powder, cumin, cardamom, and cilantro
Makes 10 servings
heat. Add the onions and jalapenos and cook until
and saute until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add to the bean mixture.
4 . Add the lime juice and egg white and stir until blended. Season with the salt and pepper. Form into 2-oz/57-g patties. Chill thoroughly.
5 . Dust the patties with cornmeal. Heat the butter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pat
7 fl o z/2 1 0 mL olive oil 9 o z/2 5 5 g small-dice onions 4 o z/1 1 3 g small-dice green peppers 1 lb 11 0 2 /7 6 5 g medium-dice russet potatoes Salt, as needed
ties and saute on both sides until the exterior is crisp
Ground black pepper, as needed
and the cake is very hot, about 3 minutes per side.
14 eggs
6 . Remove the cakes from the pan, blot briefly on paper towels, and arrange on heated plates. Serve at once, garnished with the sour cream and pico de gallo.
1 . Heat 3 fl oz/90 mL of the oil in a large saute pan or rondeau over medium heat. Add the onions and pep pers and cook, stirring frequently, until both are ten der and the onions are transparent, about 5 minutes.
2 . Add the potatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over low to medium-low heat until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
3 . Whisk the eggs until smooth in a large bowl. Add the cooked potato mixture.
4 . Heat a very large saute pan over medium-high heat.
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
tender and light blond, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the
Potato Omelet (Tortilla Espanola)
D . Heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium
Pour in 2 fl oz/6o mL of the oil and heat until close to smoking. Add half of the egg and potato mix ture and lower the heat to medium-low. Cook for 3 minutes, until the eggs coagulate and begin to turn golden on the bottom. Flip the tortilla and cook until the underside is golden brown and the tortilla feels firm, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the tortilla to a sheet tray and reserve warm; repeat with the remaining oil and egg mixture.
5 . Slice the tortillas into wedges and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
Chapter 29 » HO RS D' OEUV RE A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
979
Spring Roils Makes 10 servings
6 . Stir all the contents of the wok several times to en sure that the solids are coated with the thickened liquid. Remove from the heat and cool thoroughly.
1 qt plus 1 tb s p /9 7 5 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 1 ts p /3 g minced ginger o z/1 4 g thinly sliced green onions, green and white parts
'/ 2
o z/2 2 7 g ground pork butt
8
7 . Place 3 to 4 tbsp/55 to 75 g filling on each spring roll sheet with a slotted spoon (be careful to drain off any excess liquid), leaving a 2-in/5-cm border at each end. Brush the edges of each sheet with egg wash. Fold the corners over the filling, and roll the filling up in the wrapper, sealing with more egg wash, if
'A ounce/7 g black mushrooms, rehydrated in warm water and minced 8
o z/2 2 7 g napa cabbage chiffonade
8
o z/2 2 7 g bean sprouts
necessary. 8 . Hold the finished rolls onto a parchment-lined sheet pan dusted with cornstarch until ready to fry.
9 . Heat the remaining oil to 350°F/i77°C in a heavy 2 o z/5 7 g thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms
deep pot and deep fry the rolls until golden brown,
'/ 2
o z/1 4 g green onion, green parts only, cut into julienne
about 2 minutes. (Work in batches, if necessary.)
V/ 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL dark soy sauce
dipping sauce and spicy mustard.
IV 2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL rice wine V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL sesame oil l
'/ 2
ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar
1 ts p /3 g salt V 2 tsp / 1 g ground white pepper 1 tb sp /9 g cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tb sp /15 mL water to make a slurry, plus as needed 10
spring roll wrappers
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed 20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Spring Roll Dipping Sauce (page 957) 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL Spicy Mustard (page 960)
1 . Heat l tbsp/15 mL of the vegetable oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the ginger and sliced green onions and stir-fry until aromatic, 30 seconds to 1 minute.
2 . Add the pork and stir-fry until cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes.
3 . Add the black mushrooms and stir-fry for about 2 minutes more.
4 . Add the cabbage, bean sprouts, shiitakes, and green onion julienne. Stir-fry until all the vegetables are tender, 5 to 6 minutes.
5 . Add the soy sauce, wine, sesame oil, sugar, salt, and pepper. Mix together, then push the solid ingredi ents to the side of the wok. Thicken the excess liquid in the bottom of the wok with the slurry.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
Drain on paper towels. Serve immediately with the
Makes 10 rolls 5 sheets (7 by 9 in /1 8 by 2 3 cm) nori
Vietnamese Salad Rolls Makes 10 servings
2 tb sp /3 0 mL rice wine vinegar 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL water 4 lb 1 o z/1 .8 4 kg cooked Sushi Rice (page 785)
5 o z/1 4 2 g carrots, cut into fine julienne 2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
V A o z/3 5 g sesame seeds, toasted
5 o z/1 4 2 g vermicelli-style rice noodles, cooked, shocked, and drained
1 English cucumber (about 15 o z/4 2 5 g), peeled, cored, and cut into sticks (Va in by 5 in /3 mm by 13 cm)
3 tb s p /4 5 mL lime juice
1 avocado (about 7 o z/1 9 8 g), seeded, peeled, and cut into Vs-in/S-mm-thick slices 7 to
8
o z/1 9 8 to 2 2 7 g surimi, split in half lengthwise
3 tb sp /9 g cilantro leaves 3 tb sp /9 g mint leaves 3 tb sp /9 g Thai basil leaves o z/2 8 g sugar
Pickled Ginger (page 962 or purchased), as needed
1
Wasabi (page 9 6 0 or purchased), as needed
1 q t/9 6 0 mL water, warm 10 rice paper rounds ( 6 V 2 in /1 7 cm in diameter)
1 . Prepare the bamboo mat by wrapping it tightly and cleanly in plastic wrap.
2 . Fold a piece of nori in half lengthwise; make sure the ripples are parallel to the fold and cut along the fold. Lay the nori on the mat at the edge closest to you.
10
green leaf lettuce leaves
10 poached shrimp (3 0 /3 5 count), peeled and sliced in half lengthwise 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Vietnamese Dipping Sauce (page 956)
3 . Combine the vinegar and water. Dip your hands in the mixture, scoop out 6V2 oz/184 g (a generous 2V2
1 . Combine the carrots and salt and let sit for 10 min
cups/600 mL) of the sushi rice, and spread the rice
utes. Squeeze the carrots and discard any juices.
in an even layer over the nori. If necessary, dip your
Combine the carrots with the noodles, lime juice,
hands in the vinegar mixture again to prevent the
cilantro, mint, and basil.
rice from sticking as you work.
4 . Sprinkle 1 tsp/2 g of sesame seeds on the rice and
2 . Combine the sugar and water. One sheet at a time, place the rice paper in the water briefly to soften.
then flip the roll so that the long edge of the nori is
Remove the rice paper from the water and blot dry.
facing you. Lay 6 cucumber sticks, 2 avocado slices,
3 . For each roll, place 1 lettuce leaf on a softened rice
and 2 half-sticks of surimi across the length of the
paper. Top with
roll, one-third of the way in from the edge closest
1 shrimp (2 halves). Fold the paper around the fill
to you. Some of the garnish should be sticking out
ing, and roll into a cylinder.
either end.
5 . Bring the edge of the mat closest to you up and over
1
oz/28 g of the noodle mixture and
4 . Cut the roll in half and serve immediately with the dipping sauce.
the garnish. Continue to roll, tucking in and tighten ing the roll as you go. Gently press the roll between your palms and the work surface. Slice into 6 even pieces. Serve immediately with a garnish of pickled ginger slices and a small mound of wasabi. 6 . Repeat with the remaining ingredients to form 10 rolls.
c h a p t e r 29 » HORS D' OEUV RE A N D A P P E T I ZE R S
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
California Rolls
Beef Carpaccio Makes 10 servings 3 tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil 2
Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce Makes 10 servings
lb 8 o z/1.13 kg beef sirloin, trimmed and tied MARINADE
HERB RUB 2 tb s p /3 0 mL fish sauce 1 4 o z /3 9 7 gsalt 1 tb s p /1 5 g palm sugar 1 tb sp /1 5 mL balsamic vinegar 1
tbsp / 6 g ground white pepper
r / 2 ts p /4.50 g minced lemongrass (tender center portion only)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped rosemary
1 ts p /3 g minced ginger
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
1 ts p /3 g minced garlic
1 tb sp /3 g chopped sage
1 ts p /3 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
1 tb sp /3 g chopped thyme
V2ts p /2.50 mL Thai chili paste
GARNISH Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed Grated or shaved Parmesan, as needed 20 to 30 cured black olives, pitted and chopped 2 tb sp /3 0 mL capers, rinsed ’/ 2
tsp / 1 g ground black pepper
1 . Heat 2 tbsp/30 mL of the vegetable oil in a medium
1 lb /4 5 4 g flank steak, cut 1 by 4 by
Vsin /3 cm by 10 cm by 3 mm PEANUT SAUCE 1 tb s p /1 5 mL peanut oil 1 ts p /3 g minced garlic 1 tb sp /9 g minced shallot 1 ts p /5 mL Thai chili paste
saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef and
V 2 ts p /1 .50 g minced lime zest
sear on all sides just until colored, about 1 minute
'/t ts p /0.75 g Curry Powder (page 369 or purchased)
per side. Remove from the pan and set on a large piece of plastic wrap.
2 . Mix together all the ingredients for the herb rub in a small bowl. Press and rub it into the beef, then wrap the beef securely in plastic wrap. Refrigerate about 1 hour before slicing and plating.
3 . Freeze the wrapped meat for 1 hour to facilitate slicing.
4 . Slice the beef very thin on an electric slicer. For each serving, place about 4 oz/113 of the slices on a chilled
I V 2 ts p /4 .5 0 g minced lemongrass (tender center portion only)
3 f I o z/9 0 mL unsweetened coconut milk
V2ts p /2.50 mL tamarind pulp 1 tb s p /1 5 mLfish sauce 1 tb s p /1 5 g palm sugar l
'/ 2
ts p /7 .5 0 mL lime juice
3 o z/8 5 g peanuts, roasted, cooled, and ground into a paste
plate. Rub a few drops of vegetable oil on the beef
Salt, as needed
and cover with plastic wrap. Using a spoon, starting
Ground black pepper, as needed
from the center, spread out the beef to the edge of the plate in a thin, even layer.
5 . Remove the plastic before serving the carpaccio. Drizzle with a few drops of extra-virgin olive oil and garnish with grated Parmesan, olives, capers, and pepper. Serve immediately.
1 . Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a hotel pan. Marinate the meat for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
2 . To make the peanut sauce, heat the oil in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, shallots, chili paste, lime zest, curry powder, and lemongrass. Stir-fry until aromatic.
B RE A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
if necessary. Grill the beef until cooked to medium
Makes 10 servings
lime juice, and peanut paste. Simmer the sauce until thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature. . Soak 6-in/i5-cm bamboo skewers in hot water for 1 hour. Thread the beef skewers and allow any excess
and browned nicely on the outside, 30 seconds to 1 5 live lobsters (1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g each)
minute on each side. . Serve immediately with the peanut sauce.
3 or 4 medium red beets, cooked and peeled 3 or 4 ripe mangos 3 or 4 ripe avocados
V itelloTonnato Makes 10 servings
Ground black pepper, as needed 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Orange Oil (page 983)
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g boneless leg of veal, tied, seasoned, roasted, and chilled 6
Salt, as needed
5 o z/1 4 2 g peeled and seeded tomatoes, cut into small dice
o z/1 7 0 g drained canned albacore tuna
1 . Cook the lobsters by boiling or steaming until they
4 anchovy fillets
are cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely diced onion
the pot and cool.
V / 2 o z/4 3 g finely diced carrot
2 . Remove the meat from the tail and claw sections
4 fl o z/1 2 0 mL dry white wine
(see pages 414 to 415 for more information on work
2 fl o z/6 0 mL white wine vinegar
ing with lobsters). Slice the tail sections in half lengthwise. Remove the vein from each tail section.
2 fI o z/6 0 mL water
Reserve the claw and tail meat.
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil 2 Hard-Cooked Eggs (page
hors d’oeuvre and appetizer recipes
marinade to drain from the beef before grilling; blot
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil
. Add the coconut milk, tamarind, fish sauce, sugar,
3 . Slice the beets about V2 in/i cm thick. Use a round 866
), yolks only, sieved
1 tb s p /1 5 mL capers, drained and chopped
cutter to shape into circles, if desired.
4 . Peel the mangos and avocados as close to service time as possible. Slice them about V2 in/i cm thick.
1 . Slice the veal about Vs in/3 mm thick on an electric
5 . Arrange the beets, avocados, and mangos on chilled
slicer. You will need about 2 oz/57 g per serving.
plates and season with salt and pepper. Top with the
2 . Combine the tuna, anchovies, onions, carrots, wine,
lobster ( V2 tail and 1 claw section per salad). Drizzle
vinegar, and water in a food processor. Process to a relatively smooth paste.
3 . Arrange the sliced veal on chilled plates. Nappe it with the tuna sauce and drizzle with olive oil.
a few drops of oil over the salad. 6 . Garnish with diced tomato. Brush the lobster with additional oil, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.
4 . Garnish with the egg yolks and capers and serve immediately.
c h a p t e r 29 » HORS D' OE U V R E A N D A P P E T I Z E R S
983
Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo) Makes 10 servings
4 . Add the tomato paste, stirring to incorporate. Add the ham and the reserved pork and season with the paprika and salt. Remove from the heat and reserve.
5 . Divide the dough in 2 rounded pieces. Roll each piece of dough V4 in/6 mm thick. Line a greased 9-in/23-cm pie pan with one piece of dough. Place the filling in the pan and cover with the other piece
DOUGH 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g all-purpose flour 2 tb s p /3 0 mL white wine 2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil 2 tb sp /3 0 mL clarified butter 'A tsp /1 g salt 3A o z /2 1 g sugar 10 f I o z/3 0 0 mL water, lukewarm
FILLING 3 tb s p /4 5 mL olive oil 1 lb /4 5 4 g boneless pork loin, cut into medium dice 10 o z/2 8 4 g small-dice onion 9 o z/2 5 5 g small-dice green pepper 2 garlic cloves, minced r
/2
ts p /2 5 g tomato paste
3'A o z/9 2 g Serrano ham, thinly sliced I tsp /1.50 g sweet Spanish paprika, or as needed 'A tsp /1 g salt
1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tb s p /1 5 mL water
1 . Sift the flour into a medium bowl and make a well in the center. Add the wine, oil, butter, salt, sugar, and water. Mix by pulling the flour into the wet ingredi ents with a fork. When a loose dough forms, knead for about 2 minutes to make a flexible dough. Cover and refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
2 . While the dough is resting, prepare the filling. Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the pork and saute until browned, about 4 minutes. Re move the pork and reserve.
3 . Add the onions and peppers to the oil and cook until they begin to caramelize, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, 2 minutes more.
B RE A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
of dough, sealing the edges with your fingers. 6 . Brush the top of the pie with egg yolk and water and use scissors to cut a small vent in the center. Bake in a 350°F/i77°C oven until browned, about 30 min utes. If the top begins to become too brown, cover loosely with foil. Remove from the oven and serve.
charcuterie and garde manger Charcuterie, strictly speaking, refers to certain foods made from the pig, including sausage, smoked ham, bacon, head cheese, pates, and terrines. Garde manger, traditionally referred to as the kitchen's pantry or larder section, is where foods are kept cold during extended storage and while being prepared as a cold plate.
CHAPTER
30
Forcemeat, a
b a s ic
c o m p o n e n t
of
c h a r c u t e r ie
a nd
g arde
m a n g e r
p r e p a r a t io n s
s uc h
as
P A T E S A N D T E R R I N E S , I S P R E P A R E D B Y G R I N D I N G L E A N M E A T S T O G E T H E R W I T H FA T A N D S E A S O N I N G S TO F O R M A N E M U L S IO N .
forcemeats There are fiv e typ e s o f fo rce m e a t. A m ousselin e-style f o r c e m e a t con sists o f leaner, m ore de lica te m eats such as salmon or chicken com bined w ith cream and eggs. A s t ra ig h t f o rc e m e a t calls fo r lean m eats to be ground to g e th e r w ith fa tb a ck. C o un try -sty le fo rc e m e a ts have a coarser te x tu re than o th e r fo rc e m e a ts and usually c ontain liver. Gratin fo rc e m e a ts are sim ila r to s tra ig h t fo rc e m e a ts w ith the fo llo w in g d iffe re n ce : a p o rtio n o f the m eat is seared and cooled b e fo re it is ground w ith the o th e r in gre die nts. Emulsion forcem eats, or 5 -4 -3 -ty p e , re fe r to the ra tio o f m eat, fa t, and w a te r and are used to make item s such as fra n k fu rte rs , bologna, and m ortad ella. Once pureed o r ground to g e th e r, fo rc e m e a ts are m ixed long enough to develop a uni fo rm and sliceable te x tu re and to ensure a good em ulsion. A ll fiv e fo rc e m e a t style s have a num ber o f a p p lica tio n s in th e p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen: to prepare ap pe tizers, to use as s t u f f ings, or to produce garde m anger sp e cia lty item s including pates, te rrin e s, and galantines. A ll necessary in g re d ie n ts and eq uipm en t used in p re p a rin g fo rc e m e a t m ust be scrupu lously clean and w ell chilled a t all tim e s so th a t the lean m eat and fa ts can com bine p ro p erly. R e frig e ra te in g re d ie n ts and grin d in g eq uipm en t u n til the y are needed and hold them over a co n ta in e r o f ice to keep the te m p e ra tu re low durin g actual pre pa ration . E quipm ent can be chilled in ice w ater, if necessary.
FORCEM EAT C O M PO N EN TS Forcem eats have th re e basic com ponents. The main (dom inant) m eat provides the fo rc e meat's fla v o r and body. Fat gives a richness and smoothness; it may be e ith e r the fa t th a t oc curs na turally in a cut o f meat, or in the fo rm o f fa tb a ck or heavy cream. Seasonings are c r iti cal, especially salt. S alt not only enhances the fo rc e m e a t’s fla v o r but it also plays a key role in developing the forcem eat's te x tu re and bind. O ther seasonings may be added as desired. An a d d itio n a l com ponent, a secondary binding agent, is som e tim es req uire d to help bind th e fo rc e m e a t to g e th e r, especially if th e main ite m is de lica te or when it is n o t fin e ly ground. These binders may be eggs or egg w hites, or a m ixtu re o f cream and eggs. Pate a choux, cooked rice, cooked p o ta to e s, or n o n fa t dry m ilk pow der may be used as binders fo r fo rce m e a ts. Panadas are also used as binders. To make a bread panada, soak cubed bread in m ilk, in a ra tio o f one p a rt bread to one p a rt m ilk (by volum e), u n til th e bread has absorbed the milk. A flo u r panada is e sse n tia lly a very heavy becham el enriched w ith th re e to fo u r egg yolks per 16 f l o z /4 8 0 mL o f liquid. S om etim es eggs are also added to panadas. G arnishes are o fte n fo ld e d in to a fo rc e m e a t o r arranged in the fo rc e m e a t as the pate o r te rrin e m old is fille d . O ptions include such item s as nuts, diced m eats or vegetables, d ried fru its , and tru ffle s . A v a rie ty o f liners or w ra pp ers can be used when p re pa ring te rrin e s and pates. Thin sheets o f ham, p ro s c iu tto , or vegetables are com m only used fo r te rrin e s. Pates en croOte are baked in p a s try -lin e d m olds. The dough used fo r pates is, by necessity, a s tro n g e r dough than a norm al pie dough, although th e p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue is id en tical. (Pate dough may
986
B RE A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
bread flo u r may be added to change the fla v o r o f th e dough. For in s tru c tio n s fo r lining a pate m old w ith dough, see page 991. Aspic is applied to fo o d s to pre ven t the m fro m d ryin g o u t and to preserve th e ir fre s h ness. A spic is a w ell-seasoned, highly gelatinous, p e rfe c tly c la rifie d stock. It is fre q u e n tly s tre n g th e n e d by adding g e la tin (see page 995). When p ro p e rly prepared, aspic sets firm ly
torcem eats
also be used to prepare b a rq u e tte m olds.) Herbs, spices, lem on zest, or flo u rs o th e r than
b u t s till m e lts in the m outh. A spic made fro m consom m es m ade w ith w h ite s to ck th a t w ill be clear or lig h t brown. When th e base s to c k is brown, th e aspic is am ber or brown. O ther colors may be achieved by adding an a p p ro p ria te spice, herb, or v eg etab le puree.
PREPARING THE FORCEMEAT Use a m eat g rin d e r to prepare m ost m eats, although a fo o d pro cesso r is adequate to grind de lica te m eats and fish. Be sure th a t the blade fo r e ith e r th e g rin d e r or th e fo o d processor is ve ry sharp. M ea ts should be cut cleanly, never m angled o r mashed as th e y pass through the grinder. Have an ice bath ready over which to m ix and hold the fo rce m e a t. Forcem eats can be m ixed by hand over ice w ith a spoon, in an e le c tric m ixer, o r in a fo o d processor. Some fo rc e m e a ts are pushed th ro u g h a drum sieve to rem ove any fib e rs o r sinew. Once prepared, fo rc e m e a ts can be shaped in a v a rie ty o f m olds, includ in g earth en w are molds known as te rrin e s and hinged pate molds, as w e ll as a v a rie ty o f s p e cia lty molds. Follow sound s a n ita tio n procedures and m aintain cold te m p e ra tu re s a t all tim es. M ain ta in in g the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re is im p o rta n t fo r m ore than the p ro p e r fo rm a tio n o f an em ulsion. Ing re dients used in a fo rc e m e a t are o fte n highly su sce p tib le to con tam in ation due to handling, extended c o n ta c t w ith equipm ent, and g re a te r exposure to air. Pork, po u l try , seafood, and da iry pro du cts begin to lose th e ir q u a lity and s a fe ty ra p id ly when they rise above 40°F/4°C . If the fo rc e m e a t seems to be approaching room te m p e ra tu re a t any p o in t in its p re pa ration , it is to o warm . S top w o rk and chill all in g re d ie n ts and equipm ent. Resume w o rk only a fte r e ve ryth in g is below 40 °F /4 °C once more. Em ulsion or 5 -4 -3 fo rc e m eats are th e exception: The m eat and w a te r are b ro u g h t up to 40 °F /4 °C b e fo re the fa t is blended in. A t 45°F/7°C , n o n fa t dry m ilk is added. The em ulsion is m ixed u n til it reaches 58 °F /14°C . It is then cooled qu ickly to p re ve n t pathogen gro w th. G rind fo o d s p ro pe rly. Both th e do m in ant m ea t and fa tb a c k (if used) m ust be p ro p e rly ground b e fo re th e fo rc e m e a t can be prepared. Some garnishes are also ground along w ith th e m ea t and fa t. To prepare th e m eat fo r grinding, cu t it in to s trip s o r cubes th a t w ill f i t easily through the grinder's fee d tube. Combine it w ith an adequate am ount o f s a lt and the desired sea sonings and le t the m eat m arinate in the re frig e ra to r fo r up to 4 hours. The s a lt w ill draw o u t p ro te in s resp on sible f o r both fla v o r and te x tu re developm ent. To prepare a grinder, choose the co rre ct size die. For all b u t very delicate m eats (fish and some type s o f organ meats, fo r example), begin w ith a die th a t has large or medium openings. Continue to grind throu gh progressively sm aller dies u n til you achieve the co rre ct consis tency. S ta rtin g w ith a sm all die can cause the equipm ent to heat up via fric tio n and threa ten th e emulsion. Remem ber to chill ingredients and equipm ent between successive grindings. To use a grinder, guide the s trip s o f m eat and fa tb a c k in to th e fe e d tube. If the y are the c o rre c t size, th e y w ill be drawn in easily by th e worm . If th e y s tic k to the fee d tra y or the sides o f th e fe e d tube, the y can be aided throu gh w ith a tam per, b u t do n o t fo rc e the fo o d s throu gh th e fee d tu b e w ith a tam per. To use a fo o d processor, cut the m eat in to sm all dice b e fo re seasoning it. Chill the blade and bow l o f th e fo o d processor. Run the machine ju s t long enough to grind th e m eat in to a sm oo th paste. Pulsing th e machine o f f and on and scraping down th e sides o f the bowl produces th e m o st even te x tu re .
ch a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
987
B
basic formula Straight Forcemeat
4 1 /2 oz/128 g shallots,
(2 lb /9 0 7 g)
sweated and cooled
9 oz/255 g lean pork
Seasonings and herbs, as needed
9 oz/255 g predominant meat (lean) 9 oz/255 g pork fat
Secondary binder such as panada or 1 medium egg 2 to 4 fl oz/60 to 120 mL heavy cream (optional)
1 /4 tsp/1.25 mL Instacure Garnish, as needed
No. 1 (optional)
method at-a-glance 1. Prepare th e m eats, fa t, and
2.
g rind the main in g re d ie n t
well.
tw ice, using f ir s t a coarse and then a m edium die.
Cut the m eats and fa t
R e frig e ra te or hold the
into s trip s or 1 in /2 .5 cm
m ixtu re over ice.
dice. Add th e shallots, seasonings, and Insta-cure
3.
Combine th e m eat m ix tu re w ith the egg and cream ( if
required. Keep them chilled
using) and puree in a fo o d
a t all tim es.
processor.
If th e recipe calls fo r
O p t f o r wellexercised cuts of meat f o r forcemeats, since they have a richer flavor than
4.
( if using). M arina te them as
Grind the m eats and fa t.
expert tips
p rogressive grinding,
garnish ing re d ie nts; chill
5.
very tender cuts. However, meats to be used as garnishes can easily be the more delicate portions.
Fold in the garnish by hand, w orking over ice. Test fo r fla v o r and consistency.
1. chill both the equipment andthe 3. once ground,
th e fo rc e m e a t is m ixed in
in g re d ie n ts to help keep th e fo rc e m e a t below 40 °F /4 °C
o rd e r to blend any seasonings, panadas, o r o th e r in g re d i
and o u t o f th e danger zone. T em perature c o n tro l is also
ents th o ro u g h ly and evenly. M ore im p o rta n t, an adequate
the key to achieving th e b e st re su lts. W hen fo rc e m e a ts are
m ixing pe rio d is crucial to th e de velopm e nt o f th e co rre c t
ke p t w e ll chille d th ro u g h o u t processing, m ixing, and co o k
te x tu re . M ix in g can be done by be a tin g the fo rc e m e a t
ing, th e y req uire less fa t, y e t s till have a sm oo th te x tu re
w ith a ru b b e r spa tula o r w ooden spoon over an ice bath, in
and an appealing m o u th fe e l. The fla v o r o f th e fo rc e m e a t
a m ixer, o r in a fo o d processor. Care should be take n not
its e lf is g e ne rally b e tte r, as w ell. To prepare the m eat and
to overm ix, e sp ecially when you use a m achine. Depend
fa tb a c k fo r a fo rc e m e a t, trim it o f any g ris tle , sinew, or
ing on the am ount o f p ro d u ct, one to th re e m inutes a t the
skin. Cut the m eat in to a dice, so it can drop easily throu gh
lo w est speed should be s u ffic ie n t. The fo rce m e a t's color
the fee d tub e o f a g rin d e r o r be q u ickly processed to a
and te x tu re w ill change s lig h tly when it is p ro p e rly mixed.
paste in a fo o d processor.
4. fold any garnish into theforcemeat
2. some forcemeat formulas win
by hand, w o rk in g over an ice w a te r bath. See th e M ethod
call fo r some or all o f the m eats and fa t to be ground using
in D e ta il f o r M ousseline Forcem eat, pages 9 9 0 to 992, fo r
a m ethod called progressive grinding. Review the recipe to
m ore in fo rm a tio n on te s tin g and u tiliz in g fo rce m e a t.
determ ine if you w ill need one or more grinding plates. Grind the m eat d ire c tly in to a w ell-chilled bowl se t over ice.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
D
basic formula
Mousseline Forcemeat
^ i i a r ge egg or egg white
n> QJ
(1 lb/454 g) 1 tsp/3 g salt 1 lb/454 g meat, fish, or other main ingredient
^
8 f| OZ/ 2 40 mL heavy cream
method at-a-glance Cut th e m eat or o th e r main
4. W ith the m achine running,
in g re d ie n t in to a dice. Keep
add cold heavy cream in
it very cold.
a th in stream . Process th e m ix tu re ju s t u n til the
2. Grind th e m eat to a paste
cream is in co rp o ra ted .
in a fo o d processor. 3. If the recipe requires
5. Add the bloom ed g e la tin or aspic, i f d esired or
eggs, add th em and pulse
necessary, in th e same
th e m achine on and o ff to
manner.
in co rp o ra te them in to the meat.
6
Push the fo rc e m e a t th ro ug h a drum sieve.
V
c h a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R
989
1. once the ingredients areproperly ground, m ix o r process them , com b in ing th e ground m eat w ith a secondary binder, if desired. A fo rc e m e a t is m ore than sim p ly ground m eat. In o rd e r to produce th e desired te x tu re , th e in g re d ie n ts m ust be m ixed long enough to develop a good bind. This may be done by hand in a bowl over an ice w a te r bath, w ith an e le c tric mixer, or in a fo o d processor.
method in detail 2. process the mixture to a sm oo th con sisten cy. This encourages th e fo rc e m e a t to hold to g e th e r w e ll when sliced. A dd in g re d ie n ts such as cold cream g ra d u a lly as th e p ro cesso r runs f o r a sm oo th te x tu re and to hold th e in g re d ie n ts to g e th e r a fte r cooking.
990
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
3. when the forcemeat
has th e desired
n
te x tu re , push it th ro u g h a drum sieve. Test f o r fla v o r and
3
consistency. S tra ig h t, c o u n try -s ty le , and g ra tin fo r c e
rD
m eats are n o t ty p ic a lly p u t th ro u g h a sieve. However, a m ousseline fo rc e m e a t may be sieved to produce a very
p
r"h
fin e and d e lic a te te x tu re . Be sure th a t th e fo rc e m e a t is
C /a
ve ry cold, and w o rk ra p id ly to avoid w a rm in g it. Taste th e fo rc e m e a t f o r fla v o r and con sisten cy. Poach a b ite -s iz e p o rtio n o f th e fo rc e m e a t so th a t it can be eva lu ated (see Q uenelles, page 992). Be sure to ta s te the fo rc e m e a t a t se rvin g te m p e ra tu re . If it is to be served cold, le t th e sam ple cool c o m p le te ly b e fo re ta s tin g it. M ake any necessary a d ju stm e n ts in th e fo rc e m e a t. If it has a ru b b e ry o r to u g h con sisten cy, add heavy cream; if it does n o t hold to g e th e r p ro p e rly, a d d itio n a l panada or egg w h ite s may be necessary. A d ju s t th e seasoning and fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts as needed. P e rfo rm a new ta s te te s t a fte r each a d ju s tm e n t u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the fo rce m e a t.
4. garnish the forcemeat,
if desired,
and use as a s tu ffin g o r fillin g , o r place it in to a prepared m old and cook it. Fold garnishes such as p ista ch io nuts, t ru ffle s , o r diced ham in to th e fo rc e m e a t by hand, w o rkin g over an ice bath. Keep th e fo rc e m e a t ve ry cold u n til you are ready to shape it. It m ay be spread, piped, o r spooned in to o th e r fo o d s as a fillin g , o r used to f ill a prepared m old. The m old should be lined so th a t the pate or te rrin e can be rem oved easily f o r s licin g in to servings. Cut sheets o f lin e r large enough to hang over th e sides and ends o f the mold. These w ill la te r be fo ld e d back over th e to p o f the pate o r te rrin e to fo rm a cover. P la stic w rap is o fte n used, b u t o th e r w ra p p e rs— tra d itio n a l and c o n te m p o ra ry — may be used in a d d itio n to o r in place o f th e plastic. One o f the m ore e lab orate garde m anger p re p a ra tio n s is pate en croute. Lining a m old w ith p a s try is shown on page 1009.
c h a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R
99i
5. smooth the forcemeat using an o ffs e t p a le tte kn ife . Once th e te rrin e m old has been fille d and th e to p is sm ooth, fo ld th e excess pan liner over the fo rc e m e a t to seal th e te rrin e . Cook as d ire c te d in the recipe. A good fo rc e m e a t is w e ll seasoned and ta s te s p re d o m in a n tly o f th e main m eat w ith a rich, pleasant fla v o r and m o u th fe e l. The te x tu re should be fa irly sm oo th and have a u n ifo rm co n siste n cy by typ e , and it should hold to g e th e r w e ll when cut. Garnishes should com p le m e nt the fla v o r o f th e fo rc e m e a t w ith o u t ove rw h elm ing it. D epending on the g rin d in g and e m u ls ify in g m ethods and th e in te nd ed use, th e fo rc e m e a t can have a sm ooth co n siste n cy o r be heavily te x tu re d and coarse. M ousseline fo rc e m e a ts have a sm ooth, lig h t te x tu re th a t is not a t all rubbery. A c o u n try -s ty le fo rc e m e a t is less re fin e d in te x tu re and h e a rtie r in fla v o r than o th e r fo rce m e a ts. A g ra tin fo rc e m e a t has q u a lity c h a ra c te ris tic s s im ila r to a c o u n try -s ty le fo rce m e a t.
If
QUENELLES There are many ways to prepare and use a force meat. Depending on the desired result, quenelles
(about iyo°F/yy°C). The cooking time will vary,
are an excellent way to make individual portions
depending on the diameter of the quenelles. They
of forcemeat. Quenelles are poached dumplings
should appear completely cooked through when
made from mousseline forcemeat. They may be
broken open.
prepared to serve as an appetizer or as a garnish for soups. They are also the best size to check for flavor, texture, color, and consistency in a finished forcemeat to safeguard against producing terrines or pates that have poor quality. 1. Bring the poaching liquid to a simmer. The liquid must not be at a rolling boil. This could cause the quenelles to fall apart as they cook.
2.
Shape the quenelles. There are many ways to shape quenelles, one of which employs two spoons (see photo). Other methods include using ladles or piping the mixture through a plain-tipped pastry bag. Scoop up an appropriate amount of the forcemeat with one of the spoons, and use the second spoon to smooth and shape the mixture. Push the quenelle from the spoon into the poaching medium.
992
3. Poach the quenelles in barely simmering liquid
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings SALMON MOUSSELINE 2
lb /9 0 7 g skinless salmon fillet
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt ■ V 4 ts p /0 .5 0 g ground black pepper
/. Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it to cool slightly. Weight it with a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight, if desired. Refrigerate the terrine at least overnight or up to 2 to 3 days. 8 . Slice and serve the terrine, or wrap and refrigerate for up to 4 days. NOTE: This form ula w ill produce a good texture fo r terrines and other items tha t w ill be sliced. For tim bales or similar applications tha t can be softer, the quantity o f cream can be almost doubled.
2 egg whites 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL heavy cream F lounder M ousseline: S ubstitute an equal amount 4 o z /1 13 g shelled crayfish tails
o f ground or diced flounder fo r the salmon in the mousseline.
4 o z/1 1 3 g diced salmon 4 o z/1 1 3 g diced scallops 2 tb sp /6 g minced tarragon Blanched leek leaves, as needed
1 . Cut the salmon fillet into strips or cubes and season with salt and pepper; chill to below 40°F/4°C. Grind the salmon in a food processor or through the fine plate of a meat grinder into a bowl set over an ice water bath.
2 . Puree the salmon in a food processor until it is al most a smooth paste. Add the egg whites and pulse
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Seafood and Salmon Terrine
until mixed well.
3 . Add the cream, 1 to 2 fl oz/30 to 60 mL at a time, until it reaches the desired consistency (run the food processor until the cream is just incorporated and scrape down the sides of the bowl to blend evenly), or gradually add the cream by hand over an ice water bath. Do not overmix.
4 . Push the mousseline through a drum sieve. 5 . Test the mousseline by poaching a small amount in simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces sary before proceeding. (The mousseline is ready to use now in other applications, if desired.) Fold in the crayfish, salmon, scallops, and tarragon. 6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and leek leaves. Pack the garnished mousseline into the mold and fold over the liners to completely seal the ter rine. Cover the terrine and poach in a i7O0F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tem perature of i 65°F/74°C, 60 to 70 minutes.
c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
993
Pate Grand-Mere Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the ham slices, leaving an overhang. Sprinkle the ham with black pepper, pack the forcemeat into the mold,
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g chicken livers, sinews removed
and fold over the liners. Cure the terrine overnight
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vegetable oil, or as needed
in the refrigerator.
1 o z/2 8 g shallots, minced
7 . Cover the terrine with its lid and poach in a 170°F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy l
'/ 2
tb sp /1 5 g salt
1 ts p /2 g coarsely ground black pepper, plus more as needed
minutes. 8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it to cool to an internal temperature of 90°F/32CC
]A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground bay leaf
to
V 2 tsp /1 g ground thyme
weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
1 ts p /2 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM) 1 lb 1 o z/4 8 2 g pork butt, cubed 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley 2 '/2 o z/71 g crustless white bread, cut into small dice 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL milk 2 eggs 3 f I o z/9 0 mL heavy cream V* ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper Pinch freshly ground nutmeg 8 thin slices ham ('/16 in/1.50 mm), or as needed 6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic (page 995), melted (optional)
1 . Sear the livers briefly in a large saute pan with hot oil; remove the livers from the pan and reserve un der refrigeration.
2 . Reduce the heat under the pan to low and saute the shallots. Deglaze with the brandy and add the mix ture to the livers. Mix in the salt, black pepper, bay leaf, thyme, TCM, and 1 tbsp/15 mL oil. Chill thoroughly
3 . Grind the pork butt, liver mixture, and parsley through the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over an ice bath. Chill again.
4 . Combine the bread and milk and let soak to form a panada. Add the eggs, cream, white pepper, and nut meg. Using a paddle, mix with the ground meats on medium speed for 1 minute, until homogeneous.
5 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces sary before proceeding.
994
internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 60 to 75
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
ioo °F/38°C.
Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of plas tic on top, add enough aspic to coat and cover the terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
9 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap and refrigerate it for up to 10 days.
1 . Mix the all ingredients for the clarification and blend with the stock. Mix well.
Makes 32 fl 02/960 m L
2 *. Bring the mixture to a slow simmer, stirring fre CLARIFICATION
quently, until a raft forms.
12 o z/3 4 0 g ground beef
3 . Add the sachet depices and simmer until the ap propriate flavor and clarity are achieved, about 45
3 o z/8 5 g tomato concasse (see page 636)
minutes. Baste the raft occasionally.
4 o z/1 1 3 g Mirepoix (page 243)
4 . Strain the consomme; season with salt and pepper. 5 . Soften the gelatin in cold water, then melt over sim
3 egg whites, beaten
mering water. Add to the clarified stock. Cover and
1 q t/9 6 0 mL stock (see Chefs Note)
refrigerate until needed. Warm as necessary for use.
'A standard Sachet d’Epices (page 241)
CHEF'S NOTE: Choose an appropriate stock, depending
'A tsp /1 g salt
upon the intended use. For example, if the aspic is to be
Ground white pepper, as needed
used to coat a seafood item, prepare a lobster stock and
Powdered gelatin (see table below), as needed
use ground fish fo r the clarification.
Ratios fo r Aspic RATIO PER G A L L O N
RATIO PER P IN T
GEL S TR E N G TH
P O S S IB LE USES
2 o z /5 7 g
lA o z /7 g
D e lica te gel
W hen slic in g is n o t re q u ire d . Ind ivid ual p o rtio n o f m eat, veg etab le , o r fis h bound by g e la tin . Jellied consom m es
4 o z /1 1 3 g
V 2 o z /1 4 g
C o atin g gel
Edible ch a u d -fro id . C o atin g in d ivid u a l ite m s
6 to 8 o z /1 7 0 to 2 2 7 g
1 o z /2 8 g
S licea ble gel
W hen p ro d u c t is to be sliced. F illin g pate en cro u te , head cheese
10 to 12 o z /2 8 4 to 340 g
lV 4 tO 1 V 2 0Z /3 5 to 43 g
Firm gel
C o a tin g p la tte rs w ith u n d e rla ym e n t fo r fo o d show o r c o m p e titio n
1 6 o z /4 5 4 g
2 o z /5 7 g
M ousse s tre n g th
W hen p ro d u c t m u st re ta in shape a fte r
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Aspic
unm olding. P ro d u ctio n o f a m ousse
c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
995
Chicken and Crayfish Terrine Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings
7 . Let the terrine rest at least overnight and up to 3 days in the refrigerator, weighted if desired with a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight. 8 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap and refrigerate it for up to 7 days.
MOUSSELINE NOTE: If desired, line the mold with plastic wrap and 1 lb /4 5 4 g ground chicken breast
then thinly sliced ham before packing the mold with
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
forcemeat.
'/> tsp /1 g ground black pepper 2 egg whites 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Shellfish Essence (recipe follows), cold
Shellfish Essence Makes 6 fl 02/180 mL
2 fl o z/6 0 mL heavy cream, cold 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vegetable oil GARNISH 1 lb /4 5 4 g crayfish, shrimp, or lobster shells 8 o z/2 2 7 g cooked, shelled, and deveined crayfish tails 2 medium shallots, minced 2 chipotles in adobo, seeded and minced 2 garlic cloves, minced 4 o z/1 1 3 g stemmed shiitake mushrooms, sliced, sauteed, and chilled
12 fl o z/3 6 0 mL heavy cream
2 tb sp /6 g roughly chopped cilantro
3 bay leaves
1 tb sp /3 g chopped dill
2 ts p /4 g poultry seasoning 1 tb sp /9 g Chili Powder (page 368 or purchased)
1 . Puree the chicken, salt, and pepper in a food proces
2 tb s p /3 0 mL glace de volaille or glace de viande
sor until smooth. Add the egg whites and pulse until combined. Add the shellfish essence and cream with the machine running, and pulse just to incorporate. Pass through a drum sieve.
2 .. Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces sary before proceeding.
3 . Fold in the crayfish tails, chipotles, mushrooms, ci lantro, and dill, working over an ice water bath.
4 . Oil a terrine mold and line it with plastic wrap, leav ing an overhang of at least 4 in/10 cm on all sides. Pack the forcemeat into the lined mold, making sure to remove any air pockets. Fold the plastic wrap liner over the forcemeat to completely encase the terrine; cover.
5 . Poach the terrine in a 170°F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal temperature of i65°F/74°C, 60 to 75 minutes. 6 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it to cool slightly.
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
1 . In a medium sautoir, heat the oil over high heat. Add the shells and saute until they turn bright red. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the shallots and garlic, and saute until they are aromatic.
2 . Add the cream, bay leaves, poultry seasoning, and chili powder. Reduce the mixture to half of its origi nal volume. Add the glace.
3 . Strain through cheesecloth, squeezing to extract all liquid. Chill to below 40°F/4°C.
4 , The essence is ready to use now, or to be stored un der refrigeration.
Country-Style Terrine (Pate de Campagne) Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
2 . To make the panada, combine the cream, eggs, bread, brandy, salt, and pepper in a small bowl; whisk together until smooth, and then add to the ground meats. Using a paddle, mix on low speed for 1 minute, until homogeneous. Increase the speed to
1 lb /4 5 4 g veal shoulder, cubed
medium and mix until the forcemeat feels sticky to
10 o z/2 8 4 g pork butt, cubed
the touch.
10 o z/2 8 4 g fatback, cubed
3 . Test the forcemeat and adjust seasoning if necessary before proceeding.
SEASONINGS 4 o z/1 1 3 g shallot, finely chopped 2 tb sp /2 0 g salt
4 . Combine all of the garnish ingredients and fold into the forcemeat.
5 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and then the
2 tb sp /6 g chopped parsley
ham slices, leaving an overhang. Sprinkle the ham
1 tb sp /6 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
with white pepper, pack the forcemeat into the mold, and fold over the liners. Cure the terrine over
V2 tsp /1 g ground white pepper, plus more as needed V b ts p /0.30 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
night in the refrigerator. 6 . Cover the terrine and poach in a i70°F/77°C water
2 garlic cloves, minced, sauteed, and cooled
bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tempera
PANADA
ture of 150°F/66°C, 60 to 75 minutes.
9 f I o z/2 7 0 mL heavy cream
7 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it to cool to an internal temperature of 90°F/32°C
2 eggs
to ioo°F/38°C. Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
V a cup/60 mL Pullman loaf
weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
2 tb sp /3 0 mL brandy
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
plastic on top, add enough aspic to coat, cover the terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
1 ts p /2 g ground black pepper
8 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap GARNISH 6 o z/1 7 0 g diced smoked ham 6 o z/1 7 0 g diced fatback 4 o z/1 1 3 g toasted and chopped almonds 3 o z/8 5 g dried raisins, quartered and plumped in white wine 3 tb s p /1 8 g chopped parsley 2 tb sp /6 g chives, cut into V H n /l- c m lengths
8 thin slices ham ('/i6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed 6 to 8 o z/1 8 0 to 24 0 mL Aspic (page 995), melted (optional)
T . Toss the veal, pork, and fatback with all the season ings. Grind through the coarse plate (Vs in/9 mm) of a meat grinder. Reserve half of the mixture, then grind the remainder through the fine plate (Vs in i 3 mm) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over an ice bath.
BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER
and refrigerate it for up to 10 days.
garlic, ginger, soy sauce, and sherry and mix until evenly blended.
7 . Add the cream and pulse until just incorporated
Makes 2 lb 8 02/1.13 kg, 16 to 18 servings
(scrape down the sides of the bowl to blend evenly), or gradually add it by hand over an ice water
20 fl o z/6 0 0 mL M eat Brine (recipe follows) 3 star anise pods, crushed
bath. Push the forcemeat through a drum sieve. 8 . Fold the mushrooms into the forcemeat by hand over an ice water bath.
2 o z/5 7 g roughly chopped ginger 2 ts p /4 g Szechwan peppercorns, crushed
9 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in simmering salted water. Adjust seasoning if neces
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g pork tenderloin, trimmed
sary before proceeding. MOUSSELINE
1 0 . Cut a large rectangle of plastic wrap. Spread half of
1 lb 3 o z/5 3 9 g lean pork trim or boneless chicken breast
the mousseline on the plastic. Place the tenderloin in the middle and spread the other half of the force
lt b s p /lO g s a lt
meat evenly over the tenderloin. Roll tightly into a
2'/z o z/71 g egg whites, cold
cylinder and secure the ends with twine.
2 ts p /6 g minced garlic
1 1 . Poach the roulade at 170°F/77°C in simmer ing water to cover to an internal temperature of
2 ts p /6 g minced ginger
i6o°F/7i°C. r
/4
ts p /6 .2 5 mL dark soy sauce 1 2 . Remove the roulade from the water and cool to
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sherry, cold 10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL heavy cream, cold
below 40°F/4°C.
1 3 . Unwrap the roulade. Cut a fresh piece of plastic
6 o z/1 7 0 g thinly sliced mushrooms
wrap, brush with the glace, and scatter with the sesame seeds and parsley. Top with the cooled rou
2 tb sp /3 0 mL glace de volaille or viande, warm
lade and rewrap tightly. Refrigerate the roulade for
V 2 o z/2 8 g toasted sesame seeds
at least 24 hours or up to 2 days before slicing and serving.
2 o z/5 7 g chopped parsley
1 . Mix together the meat brine, star anise, ginger, and peppercorns in a small sauce pot and infuse over
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Pork Tenderloin Roulade
Meat Brine Makes 1 gal/3.84 L
low heat for about 5 minutes. Chill the infused brine over an ice water bath.
2 . Cover the pork with the brine mixture and use small plates to keep it completely submerged. Re frigerate for 12 hours.
1 2 o z /3 4 0 g s a lt 6 o z/1 7 0 g dextrose 2
V 2 o z/71 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
1 g al/3 .8 4 L water
3 . Rinse the tenderloin and dry well. Reserve under refrigeration.
4 . To make the mousseline, cut the pork trim into
Dissolve the salt, dextrose, and TCM in the water. Use as needed.
strips or dice and season with the salt. Chill to be low 40°F/4°C.
5 . Grind the pork trim in a food processor or through the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder into a bowl set over an ice water bath. 6 . Puree the ground pork in a food processor until it is almost a smooth paste. Pulse in the egg whites,
ch a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
999
Chicken Galantine
1 . Remove the skin from the chicken, keeping it intact. Remove the wing tips and bone out the
Makes 4 lb/1.81 kg, 28 to 30 servings
chicken, keeping the breast whole. Separate the tenderloins from the breast and reserve the breast.
One 3-lb /1.36-kg chicken Salt and ground black pepper, as needed
2 . Cut the chicken tenderloins into cubes (V2 to % in/i to 2 cm). Season with salt, black pepper, and
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL Madeira
Madeira. Marinate the tenderloin meat under re PANADA
frigeration for at least 3 hours.
2 eggs
3 . Butterfly the chicken breast meat and pound it Vi in/3 mm thick. Place on a sheet pan lined with
3 tb s p /4 5 m L brandy
plastic wrap, cover with plastic, and refrigerate.
1 ts p /2 g Pate Spice (page 1011)
4 . To make the panada, mix the eggs with the brandy,
3 o z/8 5 g all-purpose flour
pate spice, flour, salt, and white pepper. Temper 1 tb sp /1 0 g salt
the egg mixture with hot cream. Add the cream to
Va ts p /0.50 g ground white pepper
the egg mixture and cook over low heat until thick
8 f I o z/2 4 0 mL heavy cream, hot
ened. Chill.
5 . Weigh the leg and thigh meat from the chicken. 1 lb /4 5 4 g pork butt, cut into l-in /3 -c m cubes, cold
Add an equal amount of pork butt, or enough for
4 o z/1 1 3 g fresh ham or cooked tongue, cut into '/t-in /e-m m cubes
approximately 2 lb/907 g of meat. Grind the chick en and pork twice, using the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder, into a bowl over an ice water
3 tb sp /2 5 g chopped black truffles
bath.
4 o z/1 1 3 g pistachios, blanched
6 . Add the panada to the ground meat mixture. Blend
V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g salt
well. Fold in the marinated chicken and Madeira,
V2 tsp /1 g coarsely ground black pepper
the ham, truffles, and pistachios. Mix well.
Chicken Broth (page 263) or fortified stock, as needed
If necessary, use a knife to remove the
Roll the chicken breast and skin around
leg o f the chicken. Gently remove the
last o f the skin from the wing tip s of
the forcem eat.
skin from the chicken w ith your hands,
the chicken.
Cut the skin free from the jo in t near the
being careful not to puncture the skin.
lO O O
BREAKFAST AND GARDE M ANGER
down tightly to remove any air pockets. Cover the
with salt and black pepper. Add the forcemeat and
terrine mold.
roll the galantine securely. 8.
the mold up to the inner lip and press the pieces
and lay the pounded chicken breast on top. Season
4 . Poach the terrine in a hot water bath, maintaining
Poach the galantine in a narrow, deep vessel in
it at a constant i6o°F/7i°C, for 45 to 50 minutes.
enough broth to cover at 170°F/77°C, to an internal
The oven temperature may need to be adjusted to
temperature of i65°F/74°C, 60 to 70 minutes.
9 . Transfer the galantine and poaching liquid to a
keep the water at a constant temperature. If it gets too hot, add cold water immediately to lower the
storage container. Let it cool to room temperature.
temperature. Foie gras has the best texture and
Remove the galantine from the stock, and wrap it
flavor when cooked to an internal temperature of
in plastic wrap to form a tighter, rounder roll; chill
98°F/37°C. (However, be sure to check with your
at least 12 hours.
10 . To serve the galantine, unwrap, remove the cheese cloth, and slice it.
local and state health authorities for any regulatory differences.)
5 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and rest it for 2 hours at room temperature. Pour off the fat.
NOTES: Classically, galantines are wrapped in cheesecloth
Cover the terrine with a press plate and top with a 1
and poached in fo rtifie d chicken stock.
to 2-lb/454 to 9 0 7 -g weight. Refrigerate the terrine
If desired, add sliced, sauteed shiitake mushrooms when fo ld in g in the garnish in step 6.
for at least 24 hours and up to 48 hours to mellow and mature. 6 . Remove the plastic wrap and carefully remove the congealed fat. Tightly rewrap the terrine in fresh plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to slice and
Foie Gras Terrine Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings
serve the terrine, or refrigerate for up to 3 days. NOTES: To determ ine the amount o f foie gras needed to f ill any size terrine mold, simply measure the volume o f
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg foie gras, grade A V A o z/3 5 g salt
water the terrine can hold. The number o f fluid ounces/
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
7 . Lay out the reserved skin on rinsed cheesecloth
m illilite rs o f volume w ill correlate to the number of ounces/grams o f weight o f foie gras necessary to fill the
2 ts p /4 g ground white pepper 1 tb sp /1 5g su g a r V 2 tsp /1 g ground ginger V* ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM) 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL white wine or Sauternes, Armagnac, or Cognac
1 . Clean the livers, remove all veins, and dry well.
mold. For easier service, slice the terrine w ith the plastic wrap on. Remove the plastic a fte r the slices have been plated. A warm beveled knife works best. Save the fa t removed in step 5 to use to saute vegetables or potatoes. If desired, add sliced, sauteed shiitake mushrooms when fo ld in g in the garnish in step 6.
Combine 1 oz/28 g of the salt, 1 tsp/2 g of the pepper, the sugar, ginger, TCM, and wine in medium bowl. Refrigerate the livers in the mixture overnight.
2 . Line a 2-lb/c)07-g terrine mold with plastic wrap. 3 . Place the foie gras on a cutting board, separate the lobes, and select large pieces that will fit snugly into the mold, slicing the liver if necessary. Place them in the mold so that the smooth sides of the foie gras pieces form the exterior of the terrine; season as needed with the remaining salt and pepper. Fill
Foie Gras Roulade: Prepare the foie gras as directed fo r the terrine. Arrange the marinated fo ie gras on a large sheet o f plastic wrap. Wrap tig h tly around the foie gras to form a roulade. If desired, insert whole tru ffle s into the fo ie gras lobes before rolling the roulade. (Truffles must be cleaned and poached prior to use as an internal garnish. If using canned tru ffle s, this has already been done.) Poach in a 160°F/71°C water bath to an internal tem perature o f 11 0°F/43°C. Remove from the water, cool, and rewrap, tightening slightly. Refrigerate the roulade fo r at least 24 hours before slicing.
c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1001
Venison Terrine Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g venison shoulder or leg meat 1 lb /4 5 4 g fatback 2 fl o z/6 0 mL red wine V 2 tsp /1 g ground cloves
5 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and al low it to cool to an internal temperature of 90° to ioo°F/32° to 38°C. If desired, weight it with a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight. Let the terrine rest in the refrigerator overnight. 6 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap and refrigerate it for up to 5 days.
1 tb sp /6 g crushed black peppercorns 1 ts p /2 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM) 1 o z/2 8 g minced onions, sauteed and cooled 1 o z/2 8 g salt 2 ts p /4 g ground black pepper 1 o z/2 8 g dried cepes or morels, ground to a powder 3 eggs
Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL heavy cream 1 tb sp /3 g chopped tarragon 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley
1 lb 12 o z/7 9 4 g duck meat, trimmed and cubed (from a 4 to 5 -lb /1 .8 1 to 2.2 7-kg bird), breast meat reserved 8 o z/2 2 7 g fatback
GARNISH lt b s p /lO g s a lt 2 o z/5 7 g golden raisins, plumped in 4 f I o z/1 2 0 mL brandy
2 tb sp /6 g chopped sage
4 o z/1 1 3 g mushrooms, diced, sauteed, and cooled
1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
8 thin ham slices ('/i6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed
1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley '/t ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
1 . Dice the venison and fatback into i-in/3-cm cubes. Combine them with the wine, cloves, peppercorns, TCM, onions, salt, pepper, and dried cepes and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.
2 . Prepare a straight forcemeat by grinding the mari nated venison and fatback first through a coarse
4 o z /1 13 g ham, cut into small dice 2 fl o z/6 0 mL vegetable oil 3 o z/8 5 g roasted and peeled pistachios 2 '/t o z/71 g dried cherries 8 thin ham slices [Vi6 in /1.50 mm), or as needed
grinding plate (% in/9 mm), rechilling, and grinding a second time through a fine grinding plate (Vs in/3
1 . Combine 1 lb/454 g ° f the duck meat, reserving the
mm) into a chilled mixer bowl. Using a paddle, mix
breast meat for garnish, with the fatback, salt, sage,
in the eggs, cream, tarragon, and parsley on medium
pepper, parsley, and TCM in a chilled medium bowl.
speed for 1 minute, or until homogeneous. Fold in
Grind through the medium plate ( lA in/6 mm) and
the raisins and mushrooms.
then the fine plate (Vs in/3 mm) of a meat grinder.
3 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and the ham, leaving an overhang. Pack the forcemeat into the ter rine mold and fold over the ham and plastic. Cover the terrine with its lid.
4 . Poach the terrine in a i7O0F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal temperature of i50°F/66°C, 60 to 70 minutes.
1002
BREAKFAST AND GARDE MANGER
2 . Sear the diced duck breast meat and ham in the oil and let them cool.
3 . Test the forcemeat by poaching a small amount in simmering salted water in a small saute pan. Adjust seasoning if necessary before proceeding.
4 . Fold the seared duck and ham, pistachios, and cherries into the forcemeat, working over an ice water bath.
Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap and the ham slic
Let the terrine rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator.
es, leaving an overhang, then pack with the forcemeat.
Weight it with a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g weight
Fold the ham liner and then the plastic over the terrine
overnight or up to 3 days in the refrigerator.
and cover the mold. Poach in a 170°F/77°C water bath
The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal temperature of
and refrigerate it for up to 5 days.
i65°F/74°C, 50 to 60 minutes.
wT
Duck Terrine w ith Pistachios and Dried Cherries
Chicken Liver Pate Makes 2 lb/907 g, 10 to 12 servings 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g chicken livers, cleaned, sinews removed 16 fl o z/4 8 0 mL milk, or as needed for soaking
Duck and Smoked Ham Terrine Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings 1 lb 3 o z/5 3 9 g boneless skinless duck leg and thigh meat
1 o z/2 8 g salt
'A ts p /0.75 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
9 3A o z/2 7 6 g fatback VA o z/3 5 g butter
2 o z/5 7 g minced shallot
VA skinless duck breasts, cut into V H n /l-c m dice 2 garlic cloves, minced 15 o z/4 2 5 g smoked ham, cut into ' / 2-in /l-c m dice 8 o z/2 2 7 g fatback, cut into medium dice 1 o z/2 8 g minced shallot 1 ts p /2 g ground white pepper
VA ts p /3 .7 5 g minced garlic V2 tsp /1 g ground allspice 2/2
fl o z/7 5 mL port
V2 tsp /1 g dry mustard V/ 2 o z/4 3 g fresh white bread crumbs
VA tb sp /8 g all-purpose flour 'A ts p /0 .7 5 g tinted curing mix (TCM)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL sherry V2 o z/1 4 g salt 3 o z/8 5 g bread flour le g g 2 ts p /9.50 g powdered gelatin 5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL heavy cream 3 eggs
VA ts p /2 .50 g coarsely ground black pepper 6 fl o z/1 8 0 mL heavy cream
3A ts p /1.50 g poultry seasoning
1 . Soak the livers in the milk with 1V2 tsp/5 g ° f the salt and the TCM for 12 to 24 hours in a covered, me
6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic (page 995) melted (optional)
dium bowl.
2 . Drain the livers well and pat dry with paper towels. 3 . Puree the livers, shallots, garlic, fatback, pepper, all spice, mustard, bread crumbs, sherry, flour, gelatin, and eggs in a blender to a smooth, loose paste.
4 . Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a stainless-steel bowl and stir in the cream. Refrigerate the mixture for 2 hours.
5 . Pour the mixture into a terrine mold lined with plastic wrap, cover, and poach in a 170°F/77°C water
1 . Cut the leg and thigh meat and the fatback into V2-in/i-cm dice. Reserve under refrigeration.
2 . To prepare the garnish, melt the butter in a saute pan. Brown the duck breast and ham. Remove and reserve under refrigeration. Sweat the shallots and garlic in the same pan. Add the port and reduce to a thick syrup. Add to the seared meat and chill well.
3 . Combine the leg meat mixture with the flour, TCM, and salt; toss to coat evenly. Progressively grind from the coarse (% in/9 mm) through the fine plate (Vs
bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tempera
in/3 m m ) of a meat grinder into a mixer bowl over
ture of i65°F/74°C, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove the
an ice water bath.
terrine from the oven and allow it to cool at room temperature for 30 minutes. 6 . Weight with a press plate and a i-lb/454-g weight and refrigerate overnight before unmolding and slicing. NOTE: For Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, see the note fo r Seafood Pate en Croute on page 1008.
4 . Add the egg and heavy cream to the ground meats. Using a paddle, mix on medium speed for 1 minute, until homogeneous. Add the black pepper and poul try seasoning; mix to incorporate.
5 . Test the forcemeat and adjust seasoning if necessary before proceeding. 6 . Fold the garnish mixture into the forcemeat by hand over an ice water bath.
1004
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
/. Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an
weight and press overnight. Alternatively, pour off
overhang. Pack the forcemeat into the mold, and
the juices from the terrine, unwrap the layers of plas
fold over the liner. Cover the terrine and bake in a
tic on top, add enough aspic to coat and cover the
170°F/77°C water bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an
terrine, and refrigerate for 2 days.
internal temperature of i 65°F/74°C, 60 to 75 minutes.
The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap
8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow
and refrigerate it for up to 5 days.
it to cool to an internal temperature of 90°F/32°C ioo °F/38°C.
Apply a press plate and a 2-lb/907-g
w
to
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Duck and Smoked Ham Terrine, Chicken Galantine (page 1000),
Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, and Crayfish and Chicken Terrine (page 996)
c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1005
Pate Dough Makes
2
lb
12 o z /1.25
kg
3 . Add the eggs, vinegar, and 4 to 5 fl oz/i2o to 150 mL of milk. Mix on speed 1 until it just forms into a ball. The dough should be moist yet dry; if it does not hold
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g bread flour, sifted
V/2 o z/4 3 g nonfat dry milk 2'A ts p /6 .75 g baking powder V2 o z/1 4 g salt 3Vi o z/9 9 g shortening 2'A o z/71 g unsalted butter 2 medium eggs 1 tb s p /1 5 mL white vinegar
together and is not moist enough, then add more milk. If the ball is formed and moist but dry, then mix on speed 2 for 3 to 4 minutes to develop the gluten.
4 . Remove the dough from the mixer and knead by hand until smooth, tucking in all the ends as you would to shape a ball of bread. Square it off.
5 . Wrap in plastic wrap and rest for a minimum of 30 minutes (for best results, overnight) in the refrigera tor before rolling and cutting the dough to line the terrine molds.
8 to 10 fl o z/2 4 0 to 300 mL milk, or as needed NOTE: Pate dough is generally used to line a rectangular pate
1 . Place the flour, dry milk, baking powder, salt, short ening, and butter in a food processor and pulse until
mold; therefore, it should be shaped into an appropriatesize rectangle prior to refrigeration.
the dough is a fine meal.
2 . Place the dough in a 20-qt electric mixer with a paddle.
B R E A K F A S T A N D GARDE M A N G E R
S a ffro n Pate Dough: Infuse 2 ts p /1 .6 0 g saffron in 5 f l oz/150 mL warm water. Replace 5 f l oz/150 mL o f the milk w ith the saffron water. If desired, add 2 tb s p /6 g each chopped dill and chives in step 2.
the pate en croute. Cut 2 sm aller rectangles to cover the
cut the dough so th a t it w ill snugly line the inside o f the
ends o f the mold. Be sure to grease the mold before assem
mold. Cut a rectangle th a t w ill cover the bottom and 2 long
bling the pate en croute.
sides o f the mold w ith enough excess to cover the to p of
Gently line the pate en croute mold w ith the dough. Allow the excess dough to hang over the sides o f the mold.
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Use the pate en croute mold as a tem plate to measure and
Use the sm aller rectangles o f dough to line the ends o f the mold. Press the seams o f the dough tog ether firm ly to cre ate a tig h t seal.
c h a p te r 30 » C H A R C U T E R IE A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1007
Seafood Pate en Croute Makes 2 lb 8 oz/1.13 kg, 18 to 20 servings
4 . Pack the forcemeat into the lined mold. Fold the dough over, trim, and seal to completely encase the pate.
5 . Cut a cap piece and lay it over the pate, tucking the sides down into the mold. Cut and reinforce vent
6 o z /1 7 0 g shrimp
holes in the cap piece and brush the surface with
6 o z/1 7 0 g peeled crayfish tails
egg wash. Roll a tube of aluminum foil (known as a
2 tb sp /6 g minced chives
chimney) to fit into the vent holes and keep them
3 tb sp /9 g basil chiffonade 1 o z/2 8 g small-dice truffles (optional)
from closing during baking. 6 . Place one piece of aluminum foil over the top of the pate in a “tented” manner to avoid direct contact
12 o z/3 4 0 g Salmon Mousseline (page 993)
with the dough and bake at 450°F/232°C for 15 to 20
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Saffron Pate Dough (page 1006)
minutes. Remove the foil tent, reduce the heat to
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
350°F/i77°C, and finish baking to an interned tem perature of 155°F/68°C, about 50 minutes.
Dry nori sheets, as needed (optional)
7 . Remove the pate from the oven and let it cool to 90° 6 to 8 fl o z/1 8 0 to 2 4 0 mL Aspic (page 995)
to ioo°F/32° to 38°C. Warm the aspic to no°F/43°C and ladle it through a funnel into the pate through
1 . Peel and devein the shrimp and pat the crayfish tails dry. Cut them into dice or julienne, if desired. Chill to below 40°F/4°C.
the chimneys. Remove and discard the chimneys. 8 . Refrigerate the pate for at least 24 hours before slic ing and serving.
2 . Working over an ice water bath, fold the shrimp, crayfish, chives, basil, and truffles, if using, into the mousseline by hand.
NOTE: When preparing the Salmon Mousselines on page 993, replace 12 oz/340 g o f the salmon with diced shrimp, if desired.
3 . Roll the dough out into a rectangle about Vs in/3 mm thick. Cut pieces to line the bottom and sides of a hinged pate mold (see photos); the dough should overhang on all sides. Egg wash the inside of the dough liner or add a second liner of nori sheets, if desired.
1008
B R E A K F A S T A N D G ARDE M A N G E R
For Chicken Liver Pate en Croute, line the dough with ham and f ill the mold w ith Chicken Liver Pate (page 1004). Fold in garnishes such as cooked cubed chicken, chopped herbs, or plumped, dried fru its as desired.
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Use round cutters to create a vent hole in the top o f the
The finished pate en croute should be golden brown on
pate en croute to prevent the top from cracking. Reinforce
the edges and should not have any cracks in the top o f the
the vent hole and use aluminum fo il to create a chimney to
dough.
prevent the dough from closing in on itse lf.
c h a p t e r 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1009
Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese Makes 3 lb/1.36 kg, 18 to 20 servings
7 . Cover the terrine and poach it in a 170°F/77°C wa ter bath in a 300°F/i49°C oven to an internal tem perature of i45°F/63°C, about 60 minutes. 8 . Remove the terrine from the water bath and allow it to cool slightly.
VEGETABLES
3 days, weighted if desired with a press plate and a
2 lb /9 0 7 g yellow squash
2-lb/go7-g weight.
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g eggplant 2 lb /9 0 7 g tomatoes 2 medium portobello mushrooms MARINADE 2 tb s p /3 0 mL olive oil 1 tb sp /1 5 mL Dijon mustard 1 tb sp /3 g chopped parsley 1 tb sp /3 g minced chives 2 ts p /6 g chopped rosemary 2 ts p /6 g anchovy paste or olive paste (optional) 2 ts p /6 g honey 2 ts p /6 g salt V i tsp /1 g ground white pepper 2 garlic cloves, minced, sauteed, and cooled
8 o z/2 2 7 g fresh goat cheese 2 eggs
1 . Cut all the vegetables lengthwise into slices Vs in/3 mm thick.
2 . Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large hotel pan, add the vegetables, and marinate the vegetables for 1 hour.
3 . Remove the vegetables from the marinade and place them in a single layer on sheet pans lined with oiled parchment paper.
4 . Dry the vegetables in a 200°F/93°C oven until dry but not brittle, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature.
5 . Mix the goat cheese with the eggs. 6 . Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang, and assemble the terrine by alternating layers of vegetables and the cheese mixture until the terrine is filled. Fold over the liner.
IOIO
9 . Refrigerate the terrine at least overnight and up to
2 lb /9 0 7 g zucchini
B RE A K F A S T A N D GA R D E M A N G E R
1 0 . The terrine is now ready to slice and serve, or wrap and refrigerate it for up to 3 days.
Gravlax
Makes about 14 oz/397 g
Makes 20 servings
3 o z/8 5 g coriander seeds
41/io z /1 2 0 g s a lt
3 o z /8 5 g cloves
7 o z/1 9 8 g dark brown sugar
l 3/ t o z/5 0 g dried thyme
1 tb sp /6 g cracked black peppercorns
V A o z/5 0 g dried basil
3 o z/8 5 g chopped dill
I V 2 o z/4 3 g white peppercorns
2 f I o z/6 0 mL lemon juice
V A o z/4 3 g grated nutmeg
l
1 o z/2 8 g dried cepes (optional)
3 lb /1.36 kg salmon fillet
'/ 2
tb sp /2 2.50 mL brandy
3/ t o z /2 1 g ground mace ’/ 2
0 z / 1 4 g bay leaves
1 . Combine the salt, sugar, peppercorns, and dill in a small bowl to make the dry cure.
Combine all the ingredients including the dried
2 . Combine the lemon juice and brandy in another
cepes, if using, and grind them using a mortar and
small bowl. Place the salmon on a piece of cheese
pestle or a spice grinder. Store any unused spice
cloth, skin side down, and brush this mixture on top.
blend in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.
Pack the dry cure evenly on the salmon.
3 . Wrap the salmon tightly in the cheesecloth. Place the wrapped salmon in a hotel pan, skin side down, top with a second pan, and set a weight in the sec ond pan.
4 . Let the salmon marinate in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. The salmon should be fairly firm in its thickest area when fully cured.
5 . Unwrap the salmon and scrape off the cure. Gently
charcuterie and garde manger recipes
Pate Spice
rinse the salmon under cold water briefly and imme diately pat dry. 6 . Slice the salmon thinly on the bias to serve.
Chapter 30 » C H A R C U T E R I E A N D GARDE M A N G E R
1011
baking and pastry
mise en Diace To be successful in the baking and pastry arts, it is important to have a basic understanding of how baking ingredients function and how they react to each other. Knowledge of these principles and processes will not only help you to follow any formula and p ro d u c^B better quality products, but will also aid in developing formulas of your own creation.
the functions of baking ingredients The basic in g re d ie n ts used in baking ty p ic a lly f u lf ill
th e m w ith o th e r in g re d ie n ts, m ix the m w ith a sm all
m ore than one fu n c tio n in th e fin is h e d pro du ct. Eggs, fo r
am ount o f cool liquid. Tapioca sta rch is also com m only
exam ple, can a ct as a s ta b ilize r, leavener, a n d /o r th ic k
used to th icke n pie fillin g s .
ener. U n de rsta nding how in g re d ie n ts fu n c tio n w ill give a che f the a b ility to cre a te balanced baking fo rm u la s
g e la t in
and to understand w h a t w e n t w ro n g when som e th in g
G elatin is used to produce light, de lica te fo a m s th a t are
d o e sn 't w ork.
firm ly set, such as Bavarian cream, mousse, and s ta b i lized w h ipp ed cream . Such fo a m s re ta in the shape o f a
S T A B ILIZ E R S A s ta b iliz e r is any in g re d ie n t th a t helps to develop the solid s tru c tu re , or "fram ew ork," o f a fin is h e d pro du ct. It does th is in one o f tw o ways, e ith e r by to u g h e n in g or tig h te n in g a dough or by th ic k e n in g a m ixtu re . F lour and eggs are exam ples o f in g re d ie n ts th a t lend s tru c tu re
m old even a fte r unm olding and can be sliced. A vailable in bo th po w d er and sheets, g e la tin m ust f ir s t be so fte n e d or bloom ed in a cool liquid. Once th e g e la tin has ab sorbed th e liquid, it is g e n tly heated to m e lt the crystals, e ith e r by adding th e s o fte n e d g e la tin to a h o t m ixture , such as a h o t cu sta rd sauce, or by g e n tly he atin g the g e la tin over sim m e rin g w a te r.
(and n u tritio n a l value) to a fin is h e d pro du ct. Flour acts as a binding and ab so rb in g agent. It is the g lu te n (the p ro te in com p on ent in flo u r) th a t builds s tru c tu re and s tre n g th in baked goods, whereas th e starch pre se n t in th e flo u r makes a use ful thickener. When starch granules suspended in w a te r are heated, th e y begin to absorb liquid and swell, causing an increase in the v is c o s ity o f th e m ixtu re . This rea ction , known as ge lation, allow s starche s to be used as th ic k e n in g agents.
p e c t in P ectin is a ca rb o h yd ra te derived fro m th e cell w alls o f c e rta in fru its . Some com m on sources o f pe ctin are apples, cran be rries, and curra nts. It requires th e c o rre c t balance o f sugar and acid to gel.
LIQ U E FIE R S
D iffe re n t typ e s o f flo u rs have d iffe re n t g lu te n -to -
L iq u e f iers help to loosen o r te n d e rize a dough or b a t
sta rch ratio s, which w ill cre a te v a s tly d iffe re n t re s u lts in
ter. W ater, m ilk, and o th e r liquids, fa ts , and sugar act as
th e te x tu re , appearance, and fla v o r o f th e fin a l p ro d u ct
liq u e f iers.
when used in th e same fo rm u la . Eggs lend a d d itio n a l s ta b ility du rin g baking. They in
A ltho ug h sugar has a te n d e n cy to tig h te n up a m ix tu re when it is f ir s t in co rp o ra te d , th ro u g h its in te ra c tio n
flue nce the te x tu re and grain as w ell, and by fa c ilita tin g
w ith o th e r in g re d ie n ts and the heat o f baking, it u lti
the in c o rp o ra tio n and d is trib u tio n o f air, th e y p ro m o te
m a te ly a cts to loosen or liq u e fy a b a tte r or dough.
an even-grained and fin e te x tu re . Eggs act to thicke n
W a te r acts to d ilu te o r liq u e fy w a te r-s o lu b le in g re
th ro u g h th e coa gu latio n o f p ro te in s. As th e ir p ro te in s
die n ts such as sugar and sa lt. It also fa c ilita te s the even
begin to coagulate, liquid is tra p p e d in the n e tw o rk o f
d is trib u tio n o f sugar, salt, and ye a st in a dough if these
set p ro te in s, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth, ra th e r th ic k te x tu re .
in g re d ie n ts are m ixed th o ro u g h ly w ith th e w a te r b e fore
This is known as a p a r t i a l coagula tio n, w here th e p ro
in tro d u c in g th e rem a ining in g re d ie n ts in th e form ula.
te in s hold m oistu re; i f the m ix tu re were cooked or baked
W a te r also acts to leaven, as it changes to steam and
fu rth e r, th e p ro te in s w ould fu lly coa gu late and expel
expands.
water, causing th e p ro d u c t to curdle. Eggs also have leavening power. As eggs (whole,
M ilk p e rfo rm s many o f the same fu n c tio n s as water, b u t because o f its a d d itio n a l com p on ents (fa t, sugar,
yolks, or w h ite s) are w hipped, th e y tra p air th a t expands
m inerals, and pro te in ), it serves a num ber o f o th e r fu n c
when heated, re s u ltin g in a la rge r and lig h te r pro du ct.
tio n s and adds fla v o r as w ell. As th e sugar (la cto se) in
Several o th e r ty p ic a l s ta b iliz e r/th ic k e n e rs are:
m ilk caram elizes, it gives a rich co lo r to th e product's surface, and it can also aid in d e velopm e nt o f a firm
a r r o w r o o t a n d c o r n s ta r c h
crust. The la c tic acid in m ilk has a tig h te n in g e ffe c t on
These are g e ne rally p re fe ra b le fo r th ic k e n in g sauces,
the p ro te in s in flo u r, w hich serves to increase s ta b ility ,
puddings, and fillin g s w here a tra n s lu c e n t e ffe c t is de
re s u ltin g in a p ro d u c t w ith a fin e grain and te x tu re .
sired. To d ilu te the se th icke n e rs b e fo re in co rp o ra tin g
1016
B A K IN G A N D PA ST RY
To s u b s titu te a ctive dry yea st f o r com pressed yeast, use 40 p e rc e n t o f th e w e ig h t o f com pressed yeast
fin is h e d dough or pro du ct, it acts to increase the elas
called f o r in th e recipe. To s u b s titu te in s ta n t yeast, use
t ic it y o f the p ro te in s in th e flo u r, th e re b y helping the
33 p e rc e n t o f th e w eight. Sourdough s ta rte r is a yeast-
p ro d u c t expand du rin g baking. In baking, fa ts and oils
based leavener. In th is case, th e n a tu ra lly occu rring
are also c la s s ifie d as s h o rte n in g agents, a te rm derived
(w ild) ye a st is allow ed to fe rm e n t in a flo u r-w a te r m ix
fro m th e ir a b ility to s p lit th e long, e la s tic g lu te n strands
tu re over a p e rio d o f days or weeks. W ith regular fe e d
th a t can toughen flo u r-b a s e d doughs and b a tte rs . This
ings o f a d d itio n a l flo u r and w a te r, th e gro w in g s ta rte r
te n d e riz in g e ffe c t ren de rs th e strand s m ore su sce p tib le
is s tre n g th e n e d and m aintained f o r regular use in the
to bre aking (shortening), re s u ltin g in a m ore te n d e r and
p ro d u c tio n o f bread and o th e r baked ite m s in d e fin ite ly .
less dense crumb.
c h e m ic a l le a v e n e rs LEAVEN ER S (B IO L O G IC A L, C H EM IC AL,
W ith baking soda and baking powder, an alkaline in g re d i
M E C H A N IC A L)
e n t (usually sodium bica rb o n a te ) in te ra c ts w ith an acid
To leaven is to raise o r to make lighter. There are several ways to accom plish th is in baking: w ith yea sts (also known as b io lo g ica l leaveners), w ith chem ical agents such as baking pow der or baking soda, and th ro u g h steam , also known as m echanical leavening. Each m e th od is be st su ite d to s p e c ific a p p lica tio n s and all produce very d iffe re n t re su lts. D iffe re n t leavening m etho ds may be used alone o r in co n ju n ctio n w ith one an o th e r to yield p a rtic u la r e ffe c ts .
b io lo g ic a l le a v e n e rs O rganic leaveners are based on yeast, a livin g org an ism th a t fe e d s on sugars and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide, th e gas th a t lig h te n s a dough to give it the p ro p e r te x tu re . U nlike chem ical leaveners, organic leaveners ta ke a s u b s ta n tia l am ount o f tim e to do th e ir jo b . The ye a st has to gro w and rep rod uce s u ffic ie n tly to f ill the dough w ith air p o ckets. For th is to ta ke place, the te m p e ra tu re m u st be c o n tro lle d ca re fu lly. Yeast w ill n o t fu n c tio n w e ll betw een 50° to 6 0 °F /1 0 ° to 16°C, and above 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C th e ye a st is d e stro yed . Fresh o r com pressed ye a st m ust be k e p t r e frig e r ated (id e a lly a t 40 °F /4 °C ) to m aintain its v ia b ility . It may be held fo r seven to ten days, or it may be fro z e n fo r lo ng er storage. This ty p e o f ye a st com es in cake fo rm and is usually m easured by w e ig h t ra th e r than volume. A c tiv e d ry y e a st and in s ta n t ye a st are tw o typ e s o f gra nu lar yeast. They should be ke p t re frig e ra te d a fte r opening and m ust be k e p t d ry u n til use. A c tiv e dry or
alrea dy p re s e n t in baking powder, or in an in g re d ie n t such as b u tte rm ilk , sour cream , yo g u rt, or chocolate, to leaven th e p ro d u ct. (Baking pow der is a com b in ation o f an alkali, an acid, and a starch.) The a lka li and acid p ro duce carbon d io xid e when com bined in the presence o f liquid. W hen he ated du rin g baking, th e carbon dioxide expands and gives th e baked good its c h a ra cte ristic te x tu re , known as crumb. This process o f expansion hap pens rap id ly; hence, m any ite m s prepared w ith chem ical leaveners are called "q uick breads.” D o u b le -a ctin g baking pow der is so called because a f ir s t actio n occurs in th e presence o f m o istu re in the
the functions of baking ingredients
If th e to ta l am o un t o f f a t added to a dough o r b a t te r equals no m ore than 3 p e rc e n t o f the w e ig h t o f the
b a tte r and a second a ctio n is in itia te d by th e presence o f heat. T hat is, th e baking pow der re a cts once when it is m ixed w ith th e b a tte r's liquids and again when the b a t te r is placed in a h o t oven.
m e c h a n ic a l le a v e n e rs Steam , w hich is produced when liquids in a b a tte r or dough are heated, is a m echanical leavener th a t is som e tim e s re fe rre d to as a physical leavener. Steam is the leavening ag en t in sponge cakes and so u ffle s . It also plays a v ita l ro le in p u ff p a stry, croissan ts, and Danish p a stry, w here th e stea m is tra p p e d betw een layers o f dough, causing the m to sep ara te and rise. When air is in c o rp o ra te d in to a b a tte r th ro u g h e ith e r w h ipp in g or cream ing an in g re d ie n t b e fo re it is in co rp o ra te d in to the fin a l b a tte r, he at causes th e air p o cke ts in th e b a tte r or dough to expand.
in s ta n t y e a st in an unopened package is in a c o m p le te ly d o rm a n t stage and may be s to re d a t room te m p e ra tu re , unopened, f o r up to one year.
c h a p te r 31 » B A K IN G M ISE EN PLACE
1017
preparation of baking ingredients SCALING
S IFTIN G DRY IN G R ED IEN TS
The m o st accurate w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts is to
Dry in g re d ie n ts used f o r m o st baked goods should be
weigh them . Even liquid in g re d ie n ts are o fte n , though
s ifte d b e fo re th e y are in c o rp o ra te d in to the dough or
n o t always, weighed. Various ty p e s o f scales are used in
b a tte r. Dry in g re d ie n ts are s ifte d p rim a rily fo r three
the bakeshop, includ in g balance-beam , spring, and e lec
reasons:
tro n ic scales. O th e r m easuring to o ls , includ in g volum e m easures such as p ints, qu arts, and m easuring spoons, are also necessary and com m only used. It is im p o rta n t to p ro p e rly scale o u t each in g re d ie n t to prepare a baked item . It is eq ua lly im p o rta n t to scale o u t th e fin is h e d dough or b a tte r to ensure th a t th e p ro p
» To blend » To rem ove lum ps o r im p u ritie s » To a e rate S iftin g aerates flo u r and c o n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar, re
er and co n s is te n t am ount is used fo r th e pan size, mold,
m oving lum ps and filte r in g o u t any im p u ritie s . Chemical
o r in d ivid u a l p o rtio n . This n o t only c o n trib u te s to the
leaveners such as baking pow der and some fla v o rin g
u n ifo rm ity o f pro du cts, it also decreases th e p o s s ib ility
in g re d ie n ts (cocoa powder, fo r exam ple) are m ore evenly
o f uneven ris in g or bro w n ing caused by to o much o r to o
d is trib u te d a fte r s iftin g . S iftin g should take place a fte r
litt le dough or b a tte r.
th e in g re d ie n ts have been p ro p e rly scaled.
cooking sugar When you cook sugar, all you r e q u ip m e n t m ust be clean and fre e o f any grease. The sugar m ust also be fre e o f im p u ritie s such as flo u r o r o th e r in g re d ie n ts. Sugar is o fte n cooked to very high te m p e ra tu re s and im p u ritie s are like ly to burn o r cause re c ry s ta lliz a tio n b e fo re the sugar reaches th e desired te m p e ra tu re . A copper or o th
» Brush down th e sides o f th e p o t w ith a m o is t p a s try brush; th is w ill also help p re v e n t c ry s ta lliz a tio n . » H eat m ilk o r o th e r liq u id s b e fo re ad ding th e m to caram el. » Add all liq u id s c a re fu lly , aw ay fro m heat. The hot
er h e a vy-b o tto m e d saucepan should be used to ensure
caram el w ill fo a m and s p la tte r when a liq u id is
con stant, even heat.
added.
Sugar may be cooked by one o f tw o m ethods: dry or w et. The d ry m etho d is used exclusively f o r caram elizatio n . The w e t m ethod is g e ne rally used when sugar m ust be cooked to a sp e c ific stage or te m p e ra tu re . The w e t m ethod may be used to caram elize sugar, b u t th e n u tty, ro a ste d fla v o r c h a ra c te ris tic o f good caram el is b e tte r achieved throu gh th e dry m ethod. When cooking o r cara m elizin g sugar by any m ethod, you can add a sm all am ount o f an acid (ty p ic a lly lem on juice, a t a p p ro x im a te ly V \ ts p /1 .2 5 mL f o r 8 o z /2 2 7 g sugar) to help p re ve n t c ry s ta lliz a tio n du rin g cooking. A fe w basic rules apply when coo kin g sugar: » Use a heavy-gauge p o t to p re v e n t b u rn in g th e sugar and a candy th e rm o m e te r f o r accuracy. » Add an acid or an in v e rt sugar such as corn syrup to p re v e n t sugar c ry s ta ls fro m fo rm in g .
1018
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
C A R A M E L IZ IN G SUGAR B Y T H E DRY METHOD Put a sm all am ount o f th e sugar in a pre he ated pan over m edium heat and allow it to m elt. Then add the rem a in ing sugar in sm all in crem en ts, allow in g each a d d itio n o f sugar to fu lly m e lt b e fo re adding th e next. Cook to the desired color. W hen cara m elizin g sugar, reg ard less o f th e cooking m ethod, s to p th e coo kin g process by shocking the pan in an ice w a te r bath ju s t b e fo re it reaches the desired color. Sugar re ta in s heat and can becom e to o dark or burn if th e cooking process is n o t a rre ste d. H eat any liquids to be added to th e caram el and add the m c a re fu lly. C aram elized sugar is very h o t and w ill s p la tte r when a co ld e r in g re d ie n t is in tro du ced.
2 4 8 °F /1 2 0 °C
Firm ball
2 6 0 °F /1 2 7 °C
Hard ball
pan over high heat and s tir c o n s ta n tly u n til the m ix tu re
2 7 5 °F /1 3 5 °C
S o ft crack
com es to a bo il to ensure all th e sugar is m elted. Once
3 1 0 °F /1 5 4 °C
H ard crack
For the w e t m ethod, com bine th e sugar in a saucepan w ith ab ou t 30 p e rce n t o f its w e ig h t in w ater. Place the
it com es to a boil, s to p s tirr in g and skim o f f any im p u ri ties. Use a p a s try brush to wash down th e sides o f the pan w ith cool w a te r, to p re ve n t c ry s ta ls fro m fo rm in g . C ry s ta lliz a tio n o f th e coo kin g sugar occurs re a d ily on
S IM P LE SY R U P
the side o f th e pan, w here c ry s ta ls fro m eva p o ra tin g
Sim ple syrups are an indispensable preparation in every
liq u id are d e p o site d . These crysta ls, in turn, can easily
p a stry kitchen. They are a m ixture o f w a te r and sugar
a ct to "seed" th e re s t o f th e sugar in th e pan, causing it
heated only enough to allow the sugar to dissolve com
to begin to becom e lum py and granular. Repeat w ash
pletely. Various liqueurs, such as orange liqueur, brandy,
ing down th e sides as o fte n as necessary to keep them
rum, or c o ffe e -fla v o re d liqueur, may be added to the syrup
clean, u n til th e sugar has reached th e desired te m p e ra
fo r fla v o r a fte r it has cooled. If desired, fla vo rin g ingre
tu re , con sisten cy, a n d /o r color.
dien ts such as a sachet o f cinnamon and clove, a pinch o f
As th e sugar con tinu es to cook to sp e c ific te m
sa ffro n , or a s p lit vanilla bean may be steeped in the liquid.
pe rature s, th e sugar syrup changes te x tu re . Each o f the
Add the fla v o rin g to th e m ixture while it is hot, cover the
fo llo w in g stages has d iffe re n t a p p lica tio n s in baking,
pan, and le t it stand fo r 15 to 20 m inutes. Strain to remove
pa stry, and candy m aking:
any particles, if desired. Syrups o f this typ e are used to add flavor, m oisture, and sweetness to cakes before fillin g
2 3 4 °F /1 1 2 °C
Thread
2 3 8 °F /1 1 4 °C
S o ft ball
and finishing, to act as a sim ple wash fo r p u ff pa stry as it bakes, and to serve as a poaching medium fo r fru its .
the tunctions ot baking ingredients
COOKING SUGAR TO STAGES
whipped cream Heavy cream can be w h ipp ed to s o ft, m edium , or firm
lig h te n e r f o r sw e e t and savory mousses w ith a sm ooth,
peaks fo r use in sw e et and savory a p p lica tio n s. Cream
cream y consistency.
to be w hipped m ust be w e ll chilled, as should th e bowl and whip. W o rkin g w ith cold cream and cold eq uipm en t
m e d iu m p e a k
helps to produce a m ore sta b le fo a m th a t is ea sie r to
As th e cream passes th ro u g h the s o ft peak stage, it be
fo ld in to o th e r p ro d u cts. W hipped cream may be sw e e t
com es s t if f e r and holds peaks fo r a longer tim e and w ith
ened w ith c o n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar and fla v o re d w ith vanilla
less d ro o p in g when th e b e a te rs are lifte d , but the peaks
to produce C h a n tilly Cream (page 1023).
should n o t stand up p e rfe c tly stra ig h t. Sugar is best
Begin by w h ip p in g th e cream a t a m edium and
added a t th is stage. Cream w h ipp ed to m edium peaks
ste a d y speed, w o rk in g e ith e r by hand or w ith an e le c tric
is o fte n used to cover cakes and to rte s or as a garnish
m ixer. Once th e cream s ta rts to thicke n, increase the
(e ith e r a do llo p dro pp ed fro m a spoon or a p u ff piped
speed and con tinu e to w hip u n til th e desired th ickn e ss
th ro u g h a p a s try bag).
and s tiffn e s s is reached. The variou s stages o f w hipped cream are as fo llo w s :
s tiff p eak When cream is be aten to s t i f f peaks, th e fo a m loses
s o ft p e a k
som e o f its fle x ib ility . As cream reaches the s t if f peak
The cream fo rm s peaks th a t fa ll g e n tly to one side when
stage, it w ill lose som e o f its gloss and ve lv e ty te x tu re .
the b e a te r is lifte d . S o ft peak cream is ty p ic a lly used as
S t if f peak cream is used to to p pies and ta rts , as w ell as
a sauce to pool under o r spoon over de sserts, or as the
to make b u tte rc re a m .
c h a p te r 31 » B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE
1019
whipping egg whites and making meringues There are several uses in th e kitch e n and bakeshop fo r w hipped egg w h ites. They are th e leavener f o r s o u ffle s
A dd in g sugar to beaten egg w h ite s makes the foam m ore stab le. These egg w h ite fo a m s are known as m e
and sponge cakes and th e y can be used to cre a te the
ringues. M eringu es d iffe r acco rding to how the sugar is
lig h t te x tu re in som e m ousses and Bavarians. M eringues
added to th e w h ite s.
are made by in c o rp o ra tin g enough sugar to bo th s ta b i lize and sw eeten the foam . Egg w h ite s m ust be co m p le te ly fre e o f any tra c e o f yolk in ord e r to w hip succe ssfully. W h ite s w hip to the
To prepare a m eringue, f ir s t separate th e eggs ca re fu lly and be sure th a t th e w h ites, th e bowl, and th e whip are all very clean. D iffe re n t typ e s o f m eringues are made in th e fo llo w in g ways:
g re a te s t volum e when th e y are a t room te m p e ra tu re ; w h ite s take n d ire c tly fro m re frig e ra tio n can be te m
c o m m o n m e r in g u e
pered by w a rm in g them over a bow l o f h o t w ater.
The com m on m eringue is th e le a st sta b le o f all o f the
The bowl and w hip m ust also be c o m p le te ly fre e o f
m eringues. Beat th e egg w h ite s u n til fro th y , then s ta rt
any grease or fa t. Some chefs w ipe the bowl and whip
to add th e sugar in a gradual stream w hile w hipping. If
w ith w h ite vinegar, fo llo w e d by a rinse w ith very hot w a
th e am ount o f sugar is less than or equal to th e w hites,
ter, to rem ove all traces o f grease. The bow l should be
th e sugar may be added all a t once. Once all th e sugar
large enough to hold th e beaten egg w h ites, which can
is added, w hip th e m eringue to s o ft, medium, or s t if f
expand eigh t to ten tim e s in volume. If you are using an
peaks, as re q u ire d by th e recipe. This ty p e o f m eringue
acid in the m eringue, it should be added b e fo re whipping.
can be used to leaven angel fo o d cakes, sponge cakes,
Begin w h ip p in g at a low to m edium speed, ju s t u n til the w h ite s s ta rt to loosen and becom e foa m y. Increase
and s o u ffle s ; to p a pie; pipe and bake in to shells; o r cre a te b o rd e rs and o th e r de cora tions. Because th e w h ite s
the speed and continue to w h ip u n til the w h ite s hold
in a com m on m eringue are n o t heated to a safe te m p e ra
s o ft or m edium peaks (see W hipped Cream, page 1019).
tu re , th is s ty le o f m eringue should be used fo r a p p lica
If egg w h ite s are overbeaten, th e y becom e dull, grainy,
tio n s w here it w ill be cooked or baked fu rth e r.
and dry looking. O verbeaten egg w h ite s collapse qu ickly and sep ara te as th e y are fo ld e d in to a base or b a tte r,
s w is s m e r in g u e
ad verse ly a ffe c tin g the te x tu re o f the fin is h e d item .
To prepare a Swiss meringue, com bine the w hites and
B eat egg w h ite s only if you are ready to use them
sugar in a m ixer bowl and warm the m ixture over sim m er
im m e d ia te ly. For exam ple, th e w h ite s f o r a s o u ffle are
ing heat un til it reaches 140°F /60°C (depending on the
beaten, added to the base, and im m e d ia te ly baked fo r
intended use), s tirrin g fre q u e n tly to be sure th a t the sugar
th e be st volume.
is com p le te ly dissolved in to the egg whites. The amount o f sugar is alm ost g re a te r than the am ount o f egg whites.
SEPARATINGW HOLEEGGS Eggs separate most easily when they are
into one of the containers. When all of the
tion to the cold eggs, you should have four
white has separated from the yolk, drop
well-cleaned containers on hand for sepa
the yolk into its container. Examine the
rating eggs: one to catch the white as each
white to be sure that it has no bits of yolk.
egg is separated plus three more to sepa
If it is clean, drop it into the container that
rately hold all the clean whites, all whites
will hold only clean whites. Otherwise, put
with some yolk, and all yolks.
it into the container for whites to use for
Crack the eggshell and pull it apart into two halves. Pour the egg from one half
1020
into the other, allowing the white to fall
taken directly from refrigeration. In addi
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
other egg preparations.
M eringue w h ipp ed to m edium peak
S t if f peak m eringue w ill hold a peak
shape. The peaks tip over when the
becom es s t if f e r and re ta in s its shape
th a t com es to a sharp point.
w hip is lifte d .
f o r a longer tim e when th e b e a te r is lifte d fro m the bowl.
Once the egg w h ites are warm ed, tra n s fe r the bowl to a
th e end p ro d u c t has a fin e r grain and is much m ore
m ixer and whip on medium speed u n til the m eringue has
s ta b le . Prepare a sugar syrup w ith th re e -q u a rte rs o f
s o ft, medium, or s t if f peaks, as required.
th e sugar using th e w e t coo kin g m ethod and heat it to
Swiss m eringue can be used f o r th e same p re p a ra
2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . When th e syrup reaches 2 3 0 °F /1 1 0 °C ,
tio n s as com m on m eringue, b u t it may also be used to
b e at th e egg w h ite s to s o ft peaks w ith the rem aining
lighte n m ousses and creams, f ill cakes, add a de cora tive
sugar. Once th e syrup is p ro p e rly cooked, pour it gradu
piped b o rd e r to cakes o r o th e r pre p a ra tio n s, and to
ally in to th e w h ite s w hile th e m ixe r is running. Continue
make b u tte rcre a m .
to b e a t th e m eringue u n til it holds s o ft, medium , or s t if f peaks, as required.
i t a lia n m e r in g u e
Ita lia n m eringue can be used to prepare baked
Ita lia n m eringue is produced by w h ip p in g a h o t sugar
shells, and cookies. Because it is heated to a high
syrup in to egg w h ite s. This m eringue re q u ire s m ore
enough te m p e ra tu re , it can be le ft uncooked fo r use as a
c a re fu l tim in g than a com m on o r Swiss m eringue, and
fillin g o r th e base f o r Ita lia n B u tte rc re a m (page 1125).
whipping egg whites and making meringues
S o ft peak m eringue b a rely holds its
choosing and preparing pans P icking a pan o f th e c o rre c t shape and size is esse ntia l
spread ra th e r than poured, it is im p o rta n t to apply a thin
to ensuring th e rig h t te x tu re and appearance. If a pan is
film o f b u tte r or o th e r fa t to th e pan b e fo re placing the
to o large, th e cake o r bread may n o t rise p ro p e rly du rin g
p a rchm e nt in th e base o f th e pan. The f a t w ill keep the
baking and th e edges may becom e overbaked. On the
paper s ta tio n a ry w h ile th e b a tte r is spread. The sides o f
o th e r hand, if a pan is to o sm all, th e ite m m ay n o t bake
a pan should also be greased and lig h tly flo u re d . Pans
th ro u g h and th e appearance w ill s u ffe r.
used f o r sponge cakes should be lined w ith parchm ent,
PAN PREPARATION
fo o d cakes req uire no pan prepa ration . The fu ll rise o f
b u t th e sides o f th e pans should rem ain untre ated . Angel
Pans are lined w ith pa rchm e nt paper to ease the process o f rem oving a baked pro d u ct. For b a tte rs th a t m ust be
th is cake is p a rtia lly d e pendent on th e b a tte r being able to cling to th e side o f th e pan as it rises during baking.
ch a p te r 31 » B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE
1021
using pastry bags and tips P astry bags and a sso rte d tip s have m any uses in the
tra n s fe r th e p re p a ra tio n to th e bag w ith a spatula or
kitche n beyond d e c o ra tin g cakes. They are also used
spoon. T w ist th e bag to com press th e m ixtu re and to
to add fillin g s to o th e r fo o d s, p o rtio n o u t b a tte rs such
release any a ir p o cke ts b e fo re beginning to pipe. Use
as pate a choux o r duchesse p o ta to e s b e fo re baking,
you r do m in a n t hand to hold the bag and squeeze o u t the
f ill p a s try shells f o r eclairs o r p ro fite ro le s , and apply
co n te n ts o f th e bag. Use your o th e r hand to guide and
sm all am ounts o f garnish o r fin is h in g re d ie n ts on hors
stea dy th e tip . Release pressure on the bag as you li f t it
d'oeuvre and canapes.
away cleanly to avoid m aking ta ils .
E xtru d in g a fro s tin g , b a tte r, dough, o r o th e r s o ft
Clean reusable p a s try bags and tip s th o ro u g h ly im
m ix tu re th ro u g h a p a s try bag is re fe rre d to as piping. It
m e d ia te ly a fte r use by w ashing the m c a re fu lly in warm
ta ke s p ra c tic e to develop th e sure m ovem ents used to
soapy w a te r and rin sin g th o ro u g h ly. Be sure to tu rn the
cre a te de co ra tive e ffe c ts .
bag inside o u t to clean th e in te rio r b e fo re storage. In
To f ill a p a s try bag, se le c t th e de sire d t ip and po s itio n it secu rely in th e p a s try bag’s opening or in a
many kitch e n s and bakeshops, single-use p a s try bags are used f o r sa n ita tio n .
coupler. Fold down th e bag's to p to cre a te a c u ff, then
Borders piped using a star tip
1022
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Borders piped using a stra ig h t tip
Simple Syrup
Makes 16 fl oz/480 mL
Makes 32 fl 02/960 mL
5 eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
5 o z /1 4 2 g m ilk
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
Pinch salt
Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan and stir Combine the eggs, milk, and salt using a wire whip.
to ensure all the sugar is moistened. Bring to a boil,
Use as needed.
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool the syrup to room temperature. It is ready to use now or may be refrig
NOTE; There are in fin ite variations possible to best suit
erated for later use.
d iffe re n t uses and tastes. For example, water or cream can be substituted fo r some or all o f the milk. Egg yolks can be substituted fo r all or a portion o f the whole eggs. Sugar can also be added.
NOTE: Simple syrup may be made w ith varying ratios of sugar to water, depending on the desired use and the sweetness and flavor o f the cake or pastry to which it is to be applied.
C o ffe e Sim ple Syrup: A fte r the sugar and water comes to a
EG GW ASH Egg washes are an important component in many baked goods. They have a considerable effect on the finished appearance and may also affect the flavor, mouthfeel, and texture
boil, add 1 o z /2 8 g g ro u n d coffee. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and allow to steep fo r 2 0 minutes. Strain to remove the grounds.
baking mise en place recipes
Egg Wash
Liqu eur-F la vore d Sim ple Syrup: To flavor a simple syrup w ith a liqueur such as framboise, kirsch, or Kahlua, add 4 f I o z/1 20 mL o f the desired liqueur to the syrup a fte r it has cooled completely.
of the item. An egg wash may include whole eggs, only yolks, or only whites, which may be blended with water, milk, or cream. A suggested ratio is 2 tbsp/30 mL water or milk to 1 whole egg. Be sure to beat the mixture thoroughly to break up the egg whites.
Chantilly Cream/ Whipped Cream fo r Garnish Makes lib 2 0Z/510 g 1 lb /4 5 4 mL heavy cream 2 o z/5 7 g confectioners’ sugar 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Whip the cream to soft peaks. 2 . Add the sugar and vanilla and whip to desired peak.
Chapter 31 » B A K IN G M IS E EN PLACE
1023
Common Meringue Makes l lb 8 oz/68o g
Italian Meringue Makes 1 lb 8 oz/68o g
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 2 7 mL)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
Pinch salt
4 o z/1 1 3 g water
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 27 g)
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
Pinch salt 1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Place the egg whites, salt, and vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer speed fitted with a wire whip. Whip on medium speed until frothy.
2 . Increase the speed to high and gradually add the
1 . Combine 12 oz/340 g of the sugar with the water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
sugar while continuing to whip the egg whites. Whip
Continue cooking, without stirring, until the mix
to the desired consistency.
ture reaches the soft ball stage (240°F/ii6°C).
NOTE: This may also be made by hand w ith a balloon whisk.
2 . Meanwhile, place the egg whites, salt, and vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip.
3 . When the sugar syrup has reached approximately 230°F/ii0°C, whip the whites on medium speed
Swiss Meringue Makes l lb 5 oz/595 g 8 egg whites (about 8 o z/2 2 7 g)
sugar and beat the meringue to medium peaks.
4 . When the sugar syrup reaches 24O0F/ii6°C, add it to the meringue in a slow, steady stream while whip ping on medium speed. Whip on high speed to stiff
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
peaks. Continue to beat on medium speed until com
Pinch salt
pletely cool.
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 . Place the egg whites, vanilla, salt, and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip and stir until the ingredients are thoroughly combined.
2 . Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water and slowly stir the mixture until it reaches between ii5°and i65°F/46°and 74°C, depending on use.
3 . Transfer the bowl to the mixer and whip on high speed until the meringue reaches the desired consis tency.
1024
until frothy. Gradually add the remaining 4 oz/113 g
BAKING AND PASTRY
yeast breads Breads and rolls made from yeast-raised doughs and batters have a distinct aroma and flavor, produced by the biological process of the yeast’s fermentation. The effects vary from the simplicity of a hearth baked pizza to a delicate egg- and butter-enriched brioche.
CHAPTER 3 2
Yeast Lean
d o u g h s d o u g h s
m a y
can
be
be
d iv id e d
in t o
tw o
pr o d u c e d
w it h
o n ly
c a t e g o r ie s f lo u r
: lean
d o u g h s
a nd
e n r ic h e d
, y e a s t , s a l t , a n d w a t e r ; in
fact
d o u g h s
.
, th o se are
T H E IN G R E D IE N T S FOR A C L A S S IC F R E N C H B A G U E T T E . O T H E R IN G R E D IE N T S , S U C H AS S P IC E S , HERBS, S P E C I A L F L O U R S , A N D / O R D R I E D N U T S A N D F R U I T S , C A N BE A D D E D TO V A R Y T H I S D O U G H , B U T T H E Y W IL L NOT GREA TLY C H A N G E T H E BASIC T E X T U R E .
lean and enriched doughs Lean doughs contain only re la tiv e ly sm all am ounts o f sugar and fa t, if any. Breads made fro m lean dough ten d to have a chew ier te x tu re , m ore bite , and a crisp crust. Hard rolls, French and Ita lia n -s ty le breads, and w hole w heat, rye, and pum pernickel breads are con sidered lean. An enriched dough is produced by th e a d d itio n o f in g re d ie n ts such as sugar o r syrup, b u tte r o r oil, w hole eggs o r egg yolks, and m ilk o r cream. Included in th is ca te g o ry are s o ft rolls, brioche, and challah. When fa ts are in tro du ced, th e y change th e dough's te x tu re as w e ll as the way in which it behaves durin g m ixing, kneading, shaping, and baking. An en riched dough is usually s o fte r, and th e fin ish e d p ro d u c t has a m ore te n d e r b ite a fte r baking than ite m s fro m lean doughs. They may be golden in co lo r because o f th e use o f eggs and b u tte r, and the cru s t is s o ft ra th e r than crisp. W heat flo u r (all-pu rpo se o r bread flo u r, f o r instance) is th e basis o f yea st-ra ise d doughs. W heat flo u rs contain a high percentage o f pro te in , which gives a good te x tu re to lean doughs. A p o rtio n o f the w h ea t flo u r called fo r in a recipe may be replaced
m eth o d at-a-glan ce
w ith o th e r flo u rs such as rye, pum pernickel, o r oat.
P l a c e t h e w a r m li q u i d in
6.
Fold o ve r t h e d ou gh and
2. A d d t h e r e m a i n i n g
3. M i x t h e d o u g h u n t i l it s t a r t s t o "c a tc h."
4. K n e a d t h e d o u g h u n t i l it is s m o o t h a n d s p r i n g y .
5. T r a n s f e r t h e d o u g h t o a n o i l e d b o w l.
C onsult in dividu al fo rm u la s a n d s c a le th e flo u rc a re fu lly .
a b ow l.
in g re d ie n ts .
L e t i t ri s e .
punch it down. 8.
T ra n s fe r it to a flo u re d w orkbench.
9. S h a p e a n d p l a c e t h e d o u g h in p an s .
It is ge ne rally n o t necessary to s if t th e flo u r f o r bread. Yeast is a b iolo gical leavener th a t m ust be alive in o rd e r to
be e ffe c tiv e .
B ring th e yeast to te m p e ra tu re
if
room
necessary
10. L e t i t ris e .
b e fo re p re pa ring th e dough.
11. Bake.
W ater, m ilk, o r o th e r liquids used in a bread fo rm u la should fa ll w ith in a te m -
1026
BAKING AND PASTRY
The v ia b ility o f yea st m ayb e te s te d by p ro o fin g . To do so, com bine th e ye a st w ith warm liquid and a sm all am ount o f flo u r o r sugar. L e t th e m ix tu re re s t a t room te m p e ra tu re un til a th ic k surface foa m fo rm s. The foa m in dica tes th a t th e ye a st is alive and can be used. If th e re is no foam , th e yea st is dead and should be discarded. S a lt develops fla v o r in bread and also helps to c o n tro l th e actio n o f th e yeast. If s a lt is o m itte d , breads do n o t develop as good a fla v o r o r te x tu re . Pan preparation depends on the typ e o f dough to be baked. Because o f th e ir higher brow n ing point, lean doughs should be baked d ire ctly on the hearth. If th is is n ot possible, eith er line the pan w ith parchm ent paper or dust it w ith cornm eal or semolina flo u r; cornmeal is espe cially w ell suited to fre e -fo rm loaves such as baguettes or round loaves. For doughs w ith a higher percentage o f milk, sugar, and fa t, grease the pan or line it w ith parchm ent paper. The sim p lest and fa s te s t m ethod fo r producing a lean dough is d ire ct ferm en tation : Com m ercially produced yeast is combined w ith flou r, water, and sa lt and mixed u n til the dough is supple and elastic, w ith well-developed gluten. The stra ig h t m ixing m ethod is m ost o fte n used w ith form ulas th a t rely on d ire ct fe rm e n tatio n. For th is m ixing m ethod, the ingredients are added in a d iffe re n t order depending on the
lean and enriched doughs
p e ra tu re range o f 68 ° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C f o r com pressed (fresh) yeast. The ideal w a te r te m p e ra tu re f o r in s ta n t dry yea st is 105° to 1 1 0 °F /4 1 ° to 43°C.
typ e o f yeast used. If in sta nt dry yeast is used, the yeast should f ir s t be blended w ith the flour, then all the rem aining ingredients should be added to the f lour-yeast m ixture. If active dry or compressed fresh yeast is used, the yeast should f ir s t be blended w ith the w a te r and allowed to fu lly dissolve. N ext the flo u r should be added and all the rem aining ingredients should be placed on to p o f the flour.
c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S
1027
1. during mixing,
f ir s t in the pic k -up
period, blend th e in g re d ie n ts on low speed u n til ju s t com bined. The dough is a rough mass a t th is p o in t. Next, du rin g th e clean-up pe rio d (p re lim in a ry developm ent), m ix th e dough a t m o d e ra te speed; it w ill appear som ew hat rough.
2. during the early stages o f the de v e lo p m e n t period, th e e la s tic ity o f th e g lu te n begins to develop and th e dough s ta rts to pull aw ay fro m th e sides o f th e m ixin g bowl. A t th is p o in t th e m ixe r should be run ning at m edium speed. D uring th e fin a l stages o f th e de velopm e nt period, the g lu te n is fu lly developed. The dough becom es sm oo th and
m eth o d in d etail
e la s tic and leaves th e sides o f the bow l c o m p le te ly clean as th e m ixe r is running. One w ay to know when to check fo r g luten de velop m en t is to un de rsta nd th e changes th a t occur w h ile m ix ing. There are fo u r sep ara te m ixing stages, no m a tte r w h a t m ixin g m etho d you use. Each stage o f developm ent shows a clear d iffe re n c e in de velopm e nt o f glu te n s tru c tu re . Ind ivid ual recipes w ill te ll you th e level o f d e velop m en t required. Dough th a t has reached s h o rt de velopm e nt w ill becom e a hom ogeneous mass b u t w ill fa ll a p a rt when w o rked w ith you r hands. Dough th a t has reached the im p roved g lu te n de ve lo p m e n t stage holds to g e th e r but te a rs when you check fo r th e g lu te n window. Dough th a t has reached the in te nse stage o f g lu te n de velopm e nt w ill n o t te a r as it is s tre tc h e d ; it w ill hold a th in m em brane you can see through. If you o ve rm ix th e dough, th e g luten w ill break down. The dough w ill go fro m being sm oo th and e la stic to w e t and sticky. Your bread w ill fa il, m eaning th a t it w o n't rise p ro p e rly o r bake w ell. On th e o th e r hand, i f you don't m ix th e dough enough o r m ix it im p ro p e rly, you w ill also w ind up w ith low volum e and p o or in te rn a l s tru c tu re . P oorly m ixed dough may mean th a t th e flo u r w ill n o t absorb the liquids p ro p e rly and th a t th e dough tu rn s o u t irregular. It w ill have a p o or g luten s tru c tu re , lack e la s tic ity , and the dough w ill rem ain w e t and sticky.
1028
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
lean and enriched doughs
3. bulk fermentation
is th e f ir s t fe rm e n
ta tio n period. Bulk fe rm e n ta tio n is e sp ecially im p o rta n t when using th e d ire c t fe rm e n ta tio n m ethod; w ith o u t the a d d itio n o f p re -fe rm e n ts , th is is th e only tim e to develop fla v o r th ro u g h fe rm e n ta tio n . The p ro p e rly m ixed dough is tra n s fe rre d to a lig h tly oiled bow l o r tu b ( s t if f o r fir m doughs can be placed on a lig h tly flo u re d ta b le to p ). The dough may also be re ta rd e d durin g bulk fe rm e n ta tio n . R e ta rd in g dough means to p u rp o se ly cool th e dough, ty p ic a lly a t te m p e ra tu re s o f around 40 °F /4 °C , in o rd e r to slow th e fe rm e n ta tio n process. R e ta rd in g p e rm its bakers to organize th e ir w o rk to m e e t p ro d u c tio n and em ployee schedules. It also allow s th e g lu te n to relax fu rth e r, since th e fe rm e n ta tio n is prolonged. Keeping th e dough a t co o le r te m p e ra tu re s w ill re s u lt in a long er fe rm e n ta tio n pe rio d and th u s m ore fla v o r developm ent.
4. let the dough rest a t room te m p e ra tu re u n til it has doubled in size. Cover th e dough in a lig h tly oiled bow l w ith a m o is t c lo th o r p la s tic w rap to pre ve n t a skin fro m fo rm in g on th e surface and le t it re s t a t the a p p ro p ria te te m p e ra tu re u n til it has doubled in size. The tim e s sug ge ste d in our fo rm u la s are based on fe rm e n ta tio n a t room te m p e ra tu re (75°F /24°C ). The alcoh ol produced du rin g fe rm e n ta tio n te n d e r izes th e g lu te n strand s, m aking th e m m ore e la s tic so the y expand, a llow in g th e bread to rise p ro p e rly. M ore te n d e r g lu te n stra n d s produce a lo a f w ith a te n d e r and chewy crum b. G luten is also fu rth e r developed durin g th is tim e th ro u g h th e process o f fo ld in g .
c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E A D S
1029
5. fold over the dough
durin g or a fte r
bulk fe rm e n ta tio n to re d is trib u te th e available fo o d sup ply fo r the yeast, equalize th e te m p e ra tu re o f the dough, expel th e b u ilt-u p fe rm e n ta tio n gases, and to fu rth e r develop th e g lu te n in th e dough. Fold over the dough and punch it down c a re fu lly to preserve the s tru c tu re already developed.
6. accurate scaling
cre a te s u n ifo rm ity o f
size f o r each dough piece, w hich allow s f o r u n ifo rm ity in p ro o fin g and baking tim e s. A fte r scaling, g e n tly preshape th e dough in to a round o r oblong. Preshaping gives the dough a sm ooth, tig h t skin th a t w ill help tra p th e gases th a t develop du rin g fe rm e n ta tio n . R esting th e dough fo r 10 to 20 m inutes a fte r p re shaping, covered w ith a linen clo th or p la s tic wrap, allow s th e glu te n to relax so th a t th e dough w ill be easier to m a nip u la te in to its fin a l shape. A fte r re stin g , give th e dough its fin a l shape. Brush the dough w ith egg wash and apply garnish, i f using, a fte r it is shaped, so th a t th e dough is evenly coa ted w ith o u t ris k o f d e fla tin g it a fte r its fin a l rise.
1030
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
lean and enriched doughs
7. after shaping,
th e dough undergoes
one m ore fe rm e n ta tio n . Some doughs, such as th e lean dough used to pre pa re boules, can s im p ly be placed on a w o rk ta b le o r a board th a t has been d u sted w ith flo u r o r cornm eal. O th e r doughs o r shapes may be placed on a linen c lo th (couche) o r she et pans, in lo a f pans, or in b a skets (bannetons), o r w ooden or o th e r m olds. During th is fin a l rise, it is again im p o rta n t to ensure th a t a skin does n o t fo rm on th e su rfa ce o f th e dough. If you are not using a p ro o f box f o r th is fin a l p ro o f, th e dough should be covered. Using th e te m p e ra tu re and h u m id ity c o n tro ls in a p ro o f box w ill p re ve n t th is fro m happening w ith o u t the need to cover th e dough.
BAKING THE BREAD Lean doughs should be baked in a hot
Once the loaves are baked, it is im
oven (400° to 450°F/204° to 232°C) with
portant that they be cooled properly in
steam; enriched doughs should be baked
order to preserve the crust and structure
at a slightly lower temperature (approxi
of the bread as well as to allow for final
mately 375°F/i9i°C). Beyond this, other
development of flavor. All breads, but
things that may affect the specific baking
most importantly those made with lean
temperature are the type of oven, the size
doughs, should be cooled on wire racks to
and shape of the product, the desired
maintain air circulation around the entire
crust and color development (or other
loaf. This will prevent moisture from col
such characteristics), and the length of the pan proofing.
lecting on the bread as it cools.
c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T BRE A D S
/
XJ Finishing techniques The decision of how to finish a loaf of bread is an im
w ashes
portant one. If you are making several different types of
Use beaten eggs as a wash to create a glossy, shiny crust
breads and rolls the shape, scoring, and garnish not only
and seed in the moisture in the bread. Milk or cream is
add to the beauty of the finished product, but also add
often used for breads baked at lower temperatures.
flavor and can indicate to you and your customers what type of bread it is. s c o r in g
g a r n is h in g Garnishing the top of loaves or rolls adds flavor as well as appeal. Herbs, salt, olives, and seeds as well as flours such as semolina or rye may be applied after shaping, but
1.
M any breads are scored w ith a razor, sharp knife ,
surface to adhere the garnish if the dough is not moist
S coring helps develop a g o o d -q u a lity lo a f w ith an even
enough on its own to make it stick.
appearance and crum b. S coring p a tte rn s f o r round loaves should be evenly d is trib u te d over th e e n tire su r face.
2.
Some breads, such as b a gu ette s, are scored w ith
tra d itio n a l p a tte rn s as a w ay to label th e breads, m aking it easy fo r bo th c lie n ts and s t a f f to id e n tify them . Scoring p a tte rn s fo r ob lo ng loaves are a t th e h ig h e st p o in ts on th e loaf.
1032
before the final fermentation. Use a bit of water on the
scissors, o r lame b e fo re th e y are loaded in to th e oven.
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Baguettes
Makes 8 lb 7% oz/3.85 kg dough
Makes 8 loaves
5 lb /2.27 kg bread flour
8 lb /3 .6 3 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
3/4 o z/21 g instant dry yeast 3 lb 6 o z/1.53 kg water, warm l 3/ t
oz/
50 g salt
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf, shape the dough into an oblong. (Work sequentially, here and in later steps, starting with the first piece of dough you divided and rounded.) Let the dough rest,
1 . Combine the flour and yeast in the bowl of an elec tric mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add the water and salt and mix on low speed for 2 minutes. Mix on medium speed for about 3 minutes. The dough should be smooth and elastic.
2 . Bulk ferment the dough until nearly doubled, about
covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 . Position the dough lengthwise, parallel to the edge of the work surface with the seam side up. Press lightly with your fingertips to stretch it into a rectangle 10 in/25 cm l°ng, using as little flour as possible. Fold the top edge of the dough down to the center
30 minutes. Fold the dough gently. Ferment for an
of the dough, pressing lightly with your fingertips
other 30 minutes, and fold again. Allow the dough to
to tighten the dough. Fold the dough lengthwise in
ferment for another 15 minutes before dividing.
3 . See pages 1033,1034, and 1036 for shaping, proofing, and baking options suitable for this dough.
yeast bread recipes
Basic Lean Dough
half and use the heel of your hand to seal the 2 edges together, keeping the seam straight. Roll the dough under your palms into a cylinder 20 in/51 cm long. Keep the pressure even and hold your hands flat and parallel to the work surface. Move your hands outward from the center of the cylinder toward the ends and slightly increase the pressure as you move outward, until both ends have an even, gentle taper. Then increase the pressure at the ends of the loaf to seed them.
3 . Place the loaves seam side down into a pan or onto a parchment-lined sheet pan. Proof, covered, until the dough springs back very slowly to the touch, 30 to 45 minutes. (Baguettes should be slightly underproofed when placed into the oven.)
4 . Score the dough with 5 or 7 diagonal lines down the center of the loaf, overlapping each cut by V2 in/i cm.
5 . Bake in a 475°F/246°C oven with steam, if possible, until the crust is golden brown, the bread sounds hollow when thumped on the bottom, and you hear a crackle when you hold it next to your ear, 20 to 25 minutes. 6 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
c h a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S
1033
Boules
Focaccia
Makes 8 loaves
Makes 8 loaves
8 lb /3.63 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033)
8 lb /3.63 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 1033) Olive oil, as needed
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf, shape the dough into a round. (Work sequentially,
Toppings such as minced herbs, sauteed onions, sliced tomatoes, or coarse salt, as needed
here and in later steps, starting with the first piece of dough you divided and rounded.) Let the dough rest, covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 . Cup both hands around the dough. Using your
shape the dough into a round. Let the dough rest, covered, until relaxed, 15 to 20 minutes. (Work se
thumbs, push the dough away from you in an arc to
quentially, here and in later steps, starting with the
the right, keeping a small piece of dough between
first piece of dough you divided and rounded.)
the table and the edges of your palms. Using the
2 . To shape the focaccia, flatten and stretch each round
edges of your palms as a guide, pull the dough to
of dough into a rectangle or a disk and place on sheet
ward you in an arc to the left. There should still be
pans sprinkled with cornmeal or brushed with oil.
a small piece of dough that is squeezed between
Let the loaves rise until doubled, 30 to 40 minutes.
the table and the edges of your palms. Repeat this circular motion 2 or 3 more times, applying gentle pressure while rounding the dough, to create a tight, smooth outer skin. Place the boule seam side up in a round basket, or seam side down on a board dusted with cornmeal.
3 . Proof until the dough springs back slowly to the touch, 1 to 1V2 hours.
4 . Flip the dough seam side down onto a peel. Score the boule with an arc.
5 . Bake in a 450°F/232°C oven with steam, if possible, until the crust is golden brown and the bread sounds hollow when thumped on the bottom, 25 to 30 minutes. 6 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
1034
1 . Scale the dough into i-lb/454-g pieces. For each loaf,
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
3 . Just before baking, dimple the focaccia with your fingertips. Brush generously with oil and scatter the desired topping over each focaccia.
4 . Bake in a 450°F/232°C oven until deep in color, about 30 minutes.
5 . Cool completely on a wire rack.
Focaccia
1. Topreparethepre-ferm ent,combinetheflour,
Hard Rolls
Makes3dozenrolls
3 lb /1 .36 kg Basic Lean Dough (page 10 33 )
1. Scalethedoughinto36pieces,about
oz/37g each.Preshapethedoughintorounds.Letthedough rest,covered,untilrelaxed,15to20minutes. 2 . Presseachpieceofdoughlightlyw ithyourfingertips toflatten.Foldthetopedgeofthedoughdownto thecenter,pressinglightlywithyourfingertipsto tightenthedough.Rotatethedough90degrees,fold itinhalf,andusetheheelofyourhandtosealthe twoedgestogether.Cuptherollinyourhandand reroundthedough,applyinggentlepressuretocre ateatight,smoothball. 3. Proof,covered,untilthedoughspringsbackslow ly tothetouchbutdoesnotcollapse,about30minutes. 4 . Scoretherollsw ithastraightcutdownthecenterof eachroll. 5. Bakeina450°F/232°Covenw ithsteam,ifpossible, untiltherollshaveagoldenbrowncrustandsound hollowwhenthumpedonthebottom,about15 minutes. 6. Coolcompletelyonwireracks. 1V3
Ciabatta Makes4lb/1.81kgdough(4loaves) PRE-FERMENT
IV /2 o z/3 2 6 g bread flour 8 o z/2 2 7 g water, warm
Vb ts p /0 .5 0 g instant dry yeast DOUGH 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g bread flour 2 ts p /8 g instant dry yeast 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g water, warm 1 lb V/2 o z/4 9 6 g pre-ferment 2 tb sp /2 0 g salt
BAKING AND PASTRY
water, andyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixer fittedwiththedoughhook.Mixonlowspeedfor3 minutes, oruntilthoroughlycombined.Transfertoa container, cover,andfermentat75°F/24°Cfor18to 24hours,untilthepre-fermenthasrisenandbegun torecede; itshouldstillbebubblyandairy. 2 .Topreparethefinaldough,com binetheflourand yeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe doughhook.Addthewater,pre-ferment,andsalt. 3. M ixonlowspeedfor4minutesandonmedium speedfor1minute. Thedoughshouldbeblended butnottooelastic(ciabattadoughisawet, slack dough). 4 . Bulkferm entthedoughinatuborbowluntilnearly doubled,about30minutes. Foldgentlyinhalffour times(thedoughshouldfeellikejelly). Fermentfor another30minutes. Foldinhalfagain,gently,two times.Allowthedoughtofermentforanother15 minutesbeforedividing. 5. Placethedoughonthetableanddustthetopofit withflour. Keeptheworksurfacewellflouredwhen workingwithciabattadough.Usingthepalmsof yourhands,gentlystretchthedoughintoarectangle 32in/81cmlongand1V2in/4cmthick.Becareful toavoidtearingorpuncturingthedoughwithyour fingertips. Usingaflouredbenchscraper,dividethe doughintofourrectangles. 6. Flipthedoughoverontoflouredsheetpans.Gently stretcheachpieceintoaroughrectangle. Stretchthe doughslightlytoplaceitontothepan. 7. Proof,covered,untilthedoughspringsbackslow ly tothetouchbutdoesnotcollapse,30to45minutes. 8. Lightlyflourthetopofthedough. 9 . Bakeina46o°F/238°Cdeckoven,w ithsteamif possible,untilthecrustisgoldenbrownandthecia battasoundshollowwhenthumpedonthebottom, 25to30minutes.Ventduringthefinal10minutesif usingsteam.Coolcompletelyonwireracks.
Makes3lb6oz/1.53kg(11pitas)
Semolina Pizza Crust Makes8lb/3.63kgdough
1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour
3 lb 12 o z/1.70 kg bread flour
1 lb /4 5 4 g whole wheat flour
2 lb /9 0 7 g durum flour
l 3/4 ts p /7 g instant dry yeast
V2o z/1 4 g instant dry yeast
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g water, warm
3 lb /1.36 kg water, warm
2 tb sp /3 0 mL olive oil
2 o z/5 7 g olive oil
3/4 o z/21 g salt
2 o z/5 7 g salt
3/ t ts p /3 .75 g sugar
1. Com binethefloursandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewater, oil, salt, andsugar.Mixonlowspeedfor4minutes andonmediumspeedfor3minutes. Thedough shouldbeslightlymoistbutwithstrongglutende velopment. 2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about 30minutes. 3. Foldgently. 4 . Scalethedoughinto4y2-oz/i28-gpieces. Preshape intorounds.Letthedoughrest,covered,untilre laxed,15to20minutes. (W orksequentially,hereand inlatersteps,startingwiththefirstpieceofdough youdividedandrounded.) 5. Usingarollingpin,rolleachpieceofdoughinto around7in/18cmindiameter. Transfertoparchment-linedsheetpans,cover, andletrelaxfor10 minutes. 6. Bakethepitasina5oo°F/26o°Covenuntilpuffed butnotbrowned,3to4minutes. 7. Stackthepitas5highandw rapeachstackinacloth. Coolbeforeserving.
1.Com binethefloursandyeastinthebowlofan
electricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthe water, oil, andsalt.Mixonlowspeedfor2minutes andonmediumspeedfor4minutes.Thedough shouldhavegoodglutendevelopmentbutstillbea littlesticky. 2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about 50minutes. 3.Foldgently. 4 .Allowthedoughtoferm entforanother15minutes beforeretarding. 5.Refrigerateovernight. 6. Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator1hour priortouse. 7.Scalethedoughinto8-oz/227-gpieces. Preshapethe doughintorounds. (W orksequentially,hereandin latersteps, startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyou dividedandrounded.)Letthedoughrest, covered, intherefrigerator,untilrelaxed,1hour. 8. Usingarollingpin,rolleachpieceofdoughintoa round9in/23cmindiameter. Transfertoparchment-linedsheetpansthathavebeendustedwith semolinaflour,orplaceeachroundonapeelbefore youaddanytopping. 9 .Topthedoughasdesired(seethevariationsbelow ), leavingai-in/3-cmborderwithoutgarnish. 10 .Bakethepizzasina500°F/260°Covenuntilgolden brownaroundtheedges,3to4minutes. Serveat once.
yeast bread recipes
Pita Bread
M a rg h e rita Pizza: Spread each round w ith 3 f I oz/90 mL Tomato Sauce (page 295). Top each w ith 2 oz/57 g shredded mozzarella and o z /1 4 g g ra te d Parmesan.
V2
IV2
Spinach Pizza: Spread each round o f dough with oz/43 g Pesto (page 299), oz/43 g sauteed spinach, 4 3 g ric o tta cheese, and 1 o z/2 8 g g ra te d ricotta salata.
IV2
IV20Z/
ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S
1037
Makes8flatbreads
Makes6dozenrolls
12 o z/3 4 0 g water (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C)
2 V a o z/9 g instant dry yeast
5 o z/1 4 0 g compressed yeast
6 o z/1 7 0 g water, warm
5 lb 4 o z/2 .3 8 kg bread flour
2 o z/5 7 g clarified butter, plus more as needed
3 lb /1.36 kg cottage cheese
2 o z/5 7 g plain yogurt
4 Y 2 o z/1 2 8 g sugar
l e gg
r /2 o z/4 3 g minced onions
1 o z /2 8 g sugar
3 o z/8 5 g butter, soft
V/ 2 ts p /5 g salt
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 tb s p /1 2 g poppy seeds or black onion seeds
1 o z/2 8 g chopped dill
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewater, butter,yogurt,egg,sugar,andsaltandmixonlow speedfor4minutes.Thedoughshouldbeveryelas ticbutstillwet. 2 . Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled,about 1hour. 3. Foldgently. 4 . Scalethedoughinto3-oz/85-gpieces. Preshapethe doughintorounds. (W orksequentially,hereandin latersteps,startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyou dividedandrounded.)Letthedoughrest,covered, untilrelaxed,15to20minutes. 5. Gentlystretcheachpieceofdoughintoaround7 in/18cmindiameter, sothatthecenteris%in/6 mmthickandthereisaborderV2in/icmwideall around.Pulloutoneedgetoelongateeachround slightly,creatingateardropshape. 6. Placethebreadsonparchment-linedsheetpans, brushwithbutter,andsprinklewithseeds. 7 Bakeina425°F/2i8°Cdeckovenuntilgoldenbrow n andpuffed,about10minutes. 8. Coolcompletelyonwireracks. .
Cottage Dill Rolls
14 o z/3 9 7 g all-purpose flour
1. Com binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec
yeast bread recipes
Naan Bread
1 o z/2 8 g baking soda 6 o z/1 7 0 g eggs Pinch grated horseradish Melted butter, as needed Salt, as needed
1. Com binethewaterandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil theyeastisfullydissolved. 2 .A ddtheflour,cottagecheese, sugar,onions,butter, salt, dill,bakingsoda,eggs,andhorseradishand,us ingthedoughhook,mixonlowspeedjusttoincor porate. Increasethespeedtomediumandmixuntil thedoughissmoothandelastic, 10to12minutes. 3. Placethedoughinalightlyoiledcontainer,cover, andletriseuntilthedoughhasdoubledinvolume, about75minutes. 4 . Turnoutontoalightlyflouredw orksurface.Fold overthedough. 5. Scaleinto6dozeniy2-oz/43-gpieces. Roundoffthe doughandletitrestfor15to20minutes. 6. Reshapetherollsandplaceonparchment-lined sheetpans. 7. Proofinaproofboxorinaw armareauntildoubled insize,about25to30minutes. 8. Bakeina38o°F/i93°Covenuntillightgoldenin color,about20minutes. 9 . Brushtherollsw ithmeltedbutterandsprinklevery lightlywithsaltassoonastheyaretakenfromthe oven.Letcoolonthepans.
ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S
1039
Brioche Loaf Makes8loaves 5 lb /2.27 kg bread flour 1 o z/2 8 g instant dry yeast 16 eggs 1 lb /4 5 4 g whole milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C) 2 o z/5 7 g salt 3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft but still pliable 16 f I o z/4 8 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
1. Com binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addtheeggs, milk,andsaltandmixonlowspeedfor4minutes. 2.. G raduallyaddthebutterwiththemixerrunningon mediumspeed,scrapingdownthesidesofthebowlas necessary.Afterthebutterhasbeenfullyincorporated, mixonmediumspeedfor15minutes,oruntilthe doughbeginstopullawayfromthesidesofthebowl. 3. Placethedoughonasheetpanthathasbeenlined withparchmentpaperandgreased.Covertightly withplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight. 4 . Lightlygreaseeight2-lb/907-gloafpans(4V 2by8by 3in/11by20by8cm). 5. Dividethedoughbyhandinto64evenpieces, about 2%oz/78geach.Rolleachpieceintoaballandplace itintheloafpanstoform2rowsof4ineachpan. 6. Brushtheloaveslightlywitheggwash,coverwith plasticwrap,andproofuntilthedoughhasdoubled insize,about2hours. 7. Brushw itheggwashasecondtime. Bakeina 400°F/204°Covenuntilthecrustisarichgolden brownandthesidesofthebreadspringbackfully whenpressed,30to35minutes. 8. Removefromthepanandcoolcompletelyonwire racks.
1040
BAKING AND PASTRY
Brioche a Tete: Divide the dough into 104 pieces, l 3A o z /5 0 g each. Roll each piece into a ball, place them on sheet pans, and refrigerate fo r 15 minutes. Make a head (tete) by pinching one-quarter o f the dough ball with the side o f your hand and rollin g it back and fo rth on the worktable, making a depression in the dough, but not detaching it; the larger piece o f dough should be about 2 3A in/7 cm long and the te te should be 3A in/2 cm long. Gently press a hole all the way through the center o f the larger piece o f dough. Push the te te through the center of the larger piece o f dough. Place each brioche into a greased brioche tin, w ith the te te on top. Brush the brioche lightly w ith egg wash, cover w ith plastic wrap, and p ro o f until the dough has doubled in size, about 2 hours. Brush w ith egg wash a second tim e and bake in a 400°F/204°C oven fo r 2 0 minutes, or until golden brown.
Makes6loaves
4 lb/1.81 kg bread flour
Vi o z /1 4 g instant dry yeast 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C) 5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g butter, soft 5 3/t o z /1 6 B g sugar 4 eggs
V /i o z/4 3 g salt
/.Placethedoughseamsidedowninagreasedpan. Thedoughwillspringbackonitselfslightlyandfit snuglyinthepan.Brushtheloaflightlywithegg wash. 8. Proof,covered,untilthedoughfillsthepanand springsbackslowlytothetouchbutdoesnotcol lapse, 1V2to2hours. 9 .Gentlybrushthebreadagainw itheggwash.Bake ina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthecrustisbrownand thesidesspringbackwhenpressed,25to30 minutes. 10 .Rem ovethebreadfromthepanandcoolcom pletelyonwireracks.
yeast bread recipes
Raisin Bread with Cinnamon Swirl
12 o z/3 4 0 g raisins
3Aoz/21 g ground cinnamon Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed CINNAMON SUGAR 8 o z/2 2 7 g brown sugar 1 o z/2 8 g ground cinnamon
1.Com binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofan
electricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Add themilk,butter, sugar,eggs,andsalt. Mixonlow speedfor4minutesandonmediumspeedfor4 minutes; inthelastminuteofmixing,addthe raisins, andinthelast30secondsofmixing,add thecinnamon,mixingjustlongenoughtocreatea swirl.Thedoughshouldbeslightlysoft. 2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled, about1hour. 3.Foldgently. 4 .Scalethedoughinto1lb\-0zl567-gpiecesandpre shapeintoanoblong. 5.Letthedoughrest, covered,untilrelaxed,15to20 minutes. Lightlygreasesix2-lb/go7-gloafpans. Combinethebrownsugarandcinnamon. 6. Rollthedoughintoanevenrectangle8by12in/20 by30cm.Brushlightlywitheggwash.Sprinkle1 oz/28gofthecinnamonsugarevenlyoverthesur face.Rollupthedoughalongthelongsideunder yourpalmsintoacylinder,keepingthepressure evenandholdingyourhandsflatandparallelto theworksurfacetocreateasmooth,evenloaf.
ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T B R E AD S
1043
Challah (3-Braid) Makes8loaves 4 lb/1.81 kg bread flour
'/2 o z/1 4 g instant dry yeast 2 lb /9 0 7 g water, warm 12 egg yolks 7 /2 o z/2 1 3 g vegetable oil 2 o z/5 7 g sugar V 2 o z/1 4 g salt 10 fl o z/6 0 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023; using yolks only)
1.Com binetheflourandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook.Addthewa ter,eggyolks,oil, sugar,andsalt.Mixonlowspeed for4minutesandonmediumspeedfor4minutes. Thedoughshouldbeslightlyfirmandsmooth,not sticky. 2 .Bulkferm entthedoughuntilnearlydoubled, about1hour. 3.Foldgently. 4 .Dividethedoughinto24pieces, about4V 2oz/128 geach.Preshapeintooblongs.Allowthedoughto rest,covered,15to20minutes. 5.Startw iththefirstpieceofdoughthatyoushaped andworksequentiallyonalightlyflouredwork bench.Startingatthecenterofthedough,roll eachpieceoutward,applyinggentlepressurewith yourpalms.Applyverylittlepressureatthecenter ofthedough,butincreasethepressureasyouroll towardtheendofthedough.Rolleachpieceof doughintoanevenlytaperedstrand12in/30cm long.Itisimperativethatallofthestrandsbethe samelength.Iftheyarenot,thefinishedbraidwill beuneven. 6. Dustthetopsofthestrandsverylightlywithwhite ryeflour.Thiswillkeepthedoughdryasyoubraid andhelpmaintaintheoveralldefinitionofthe braid. 7.Lay3strandsofthedoughverticallyparallelto eachother. Beginbraidinginthecenterofthe strands. Placetheleftstrandoverthecenter strand,thenplacetherightstrandoverthecenter
1044
BAKING AND PASTRY
strand.Repeatthisprocessuntilyoureachtheend ofthedough.Pinchtheendstogethertightly.Flip thebraidaroundandfinishbraidingtheotherside. 8. Brushthedoughlightlywitheggwash.Proof,cov ered,untilthedoughspringsbacklightlytothe touchbutdoesnotcollapse, about1hour.There shouldbeasmallindentationleftinthedough. 9 .M akesurethattheeggwashisdrybeforeyouap plyasecondcoat. Eggwashthedoughagainvery gently. 10 .Bakeina350°F/i77°Cconvectionovenuntilthe braidsaredarkgoldenbrownandshiny,20to25 minutes. 11.Coolcom pletelyonwireracks.
Sweet Dough
Makes
M akes
12
dozen i-oz/ 2 8 -g rolls
11
lb
8
ozl^ .22 kg dough
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C)
4 lb/1.81 kg milk (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C)
6 o z/1 7 0 g compressed yeast
6 o z/1 7 0 g compressed yeast
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g eggs
5 lb 8 oz/2.49 kg bread flour
V/2 o z/4 3 g malt syrup
2 o z/5 7 g salt
1 lb /4 5 4 g pastry flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg bread flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter (68° to 7 6 °F /2 0 ° to 24°C)
3/t o z /2 1 g s a lt
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1. Com binethemilkandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil theyeastisfullydissolved. 2 .A ddtheeggs,flour,salt, sugar,andbutterandusing thedoughhookmixonlowspeedjusttoincorpo rate. Increasethespeedtomediumandmixuntilthe doughissmoothandelastic, 10to12minutes. 3. Placethedoughinalightlyoiledcontainer, cover, andletriseuntilthedoughhasdoubledinvolume, about1hour15minutes. 4 . Turnoutthedoughontoalightlyflouredw orksur face. Foldoverthedough. 5. Scalethedoughinto12dozeni-oz/28-gpieces, and roundoff. Coverandletrestfor10minutes. 6. Shapethedoughintorolls(seeNote)andplace themonparchment-linedsheetpans.Brushlightly andevenlywitheggwash. 7. Coverandpanproofuntilnearlydoubled,25to30 minutes. Brushwitheggwashagainjustbeforebak ing,ifdesired. 8. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenuntildeepgoldenbrown, about20minutes. 9 . Lettherollscoolonthepan.
yeast bread recipes
S o ft Dinner Rolls
V2 o z/1 4 g ground cardamom 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, soft
1. Com binethemilkandyeastinthebowlofanelec
tricmixerfittedwiththedoughhookandblenduntil theyeastisfullydissolved. ~Z.Addtheeggsandm altsyrupandblend.Addthere mainingingredientsandusingthedoughhookmix onlowspeedjusttoincorporate. Increasethespeed tomediumandmixuntilthedoughissmoothand elastic, 10to12minutes. 3.Thedoughm aybeshapednoworrefrigeratedfor lateruse.
NOTE: The rolls may be shaped into knots, Parker House rolls, or cloverleaf rolls. To make knots, roll each ball of dough into a rope and tie it into a knot or figure eight. For Parker House rolls, fla tte n a piece o f dough, brush it with butter, and fo ld it in half. For cloverleaf rolls, arrange 3 small balls o f dough in a triangular pattern and if desired, place in m uffin tins.
ch a p te r 32 » Y E A S T BRE A D S
1045
Sticky Buns
Makes32stickybuns
CINNAMON SMEAR 10 o z/2 8 4 g bread flour 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 2 tb sp /1 2 g ground cinnamon 5 o z/1 4 2 g butter 6 egg whites 8 o z/2 2 7 g pecans, toasted and chopped PAN SMEAR 2 lb /9 0 7 g light brown sugar 2 lb 10 oz/1.19 kg dark corn syrup 2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream
6 lb /2.72 kg Sweet Dough (page 1045) 8 fl o z/2 4 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
1.Tom akethecinnamonsmear,mixtogetherthe
flour,sugar,andcinnamoninthebowlofanelec tricmixerfittedwiththepaddle.Addthebutter andblendonmediumspeeduntilthemixture lookslikecoarsemealandtherearenovisible chunksofbutter,about1minute. 2 .A ddtheeggwhitesintwoadditions,mixingto fullycombineandscrapingdownthesidesofthe bowlasnecessary. 3.A ddthenutsandmixuntiljustcombined.Reserve untilneeded. 4 .Tom akethepansmear,combinethesugar, cornsyrup,andcreaminasaucepanandheatto 220°F/l04°C. 5.Allowthem ixturetocooltoroomtemperature beforeusing.Itmaybenecessarytorecombinethe mixturewithawhiskbeforeusing. 6. Scalethedoughintofourpieces, 1lb8oz/68og each.(W orksequentially,hereandinlatersteps, startingwiththefirstpieceofdoughyoudivided.) Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksur facetoarectangle14by8in/36by20cmandap proximatelyV2in/icmthick. 7.Lightlybrushtherectanglew ithastripofeggwash 1in/3cmwidealongthelongside. 1046
BAKING AND PASTRY
8. Spread8floz/240mLofthecinnamonsmear evenlyovertheremainderofthesurface. Rollup thedoughtoformalog14in/36cmlongandseal attheegg-washedstrip.Divideeachpieceofdough into9evenpieces. 9 .Pour8floz/240m Lofthepansmearintoeachof four9-in/23-cmsquarebakingpans. Place9rolls ineachpan.Prooftherollsuntiltheyaredoubled insize. 10 .Bakeina400°F/204°Covenuntilgoldenbrow n, 25to30minutes. Immediatelyuponremovalfrom theoven,inverteachpanontoaplate. Servewarm oratroomtemperature.
and batters Most pastry doughs and batters contain many common ingredients flour, fat, liquid, and eggs. What makes each unique is the proportioi in which each of the ingredients is used in relation to the others, the flavorings used, and the method for mixing or combining the ingredients.
J
B is c u it s , s c o n e s , s o d a
b r ea d s
, and
p ie
d o u g h s
can
be
prepared
u s in g
a
r u b b ed
-d o u g h , or
C U T T I N G - I N , M E T H O D . T h e I N G R E D I E N T S A R E N O T B L E N D E D I N T O A S M O O T H B A T T E R . I N S T E A D , T H E FAT IS C H I L L E D A N D T H E N R U B B E D I N T O T H E F L O U R T O C R E A T E F L A K E S T H A T W I L L P R O D U C E A T E N D E R , F L A K Y BAKED ITEM .
rubbed-dough m e t h o d (cutting-in) Flour, a cold solid fa t, and a ve ry cold liquid are th e basic com ponents o f m ost rubbeddough pro du cts. A ll-p u rp o se w heat flo u r or a com b in ation o f w h ea t and o th e r flo u rs should be p ro p e rly w eighed and s ifte d . Any leavener should be weighed o r m easured and blended evenly th ro u g h o u t th e flo u r e ith e r by s iftin g it w ith the flo u r or by blending w ith a whisk. O th er dry in g re d ie n ts (salt, spices, etc.) are ty p ic a lly scaled o u t and blended w ith th e flo u r in the same manner. B utter, shortening, o r lard (or a com b in ation ) are the m ost com m on fa ts used fo r th is m ixing m ethod; the y should be broken or cu t in to pieces and k e p t cool. Recipes using th is m ixing m ethod call fo r a re la tiv e ly sm all am ount o f liquid, and the liquid, like th e fa t, should be very cold to fu rth e r in h ib it th e fa t fro m blending co m p le te ly w ith the flo u r. W ater, m ilk, and b u tte rm ilk are all common liquid ingre die nts. Com bine the liquid w ith the o th e r in g re dien ts ju s t enough to allow th e m o istu re to be absorbed by
method at-a-glance
th e flo u r and ju s t u n til th e in g re d ie n ts come to g e th e r, at which p o in t the dough should be allow ed to re s t in the re frig e ra to r.
S ift the d ry ing re d ie nts. 2.
There are tw o basic typ e s o f rubbed doughs: fla k y and
Cut the fa t in to the dry
mealy. The la rge r the fla ke s o f fa t b e fo re the liquid is add
in g re d ie n ts u n til the m ixtu re
ed, the fla k ie r and crisp e r th e baked dough w ill be. If the
resem bles a coarse meal.
fla ke s o f b u tte r or sh o rte n in g are rubbed in to th e dough so th a t the y rem ain visible , the re s u lt w ill be w h a t is o fte n
3.
Add th e cold liquid
re fe rre d to as “fla k y " pie dough. If th e b u tte r or sho rte ning
ing re d ie nts and m ix ju s t u n til
is m ore th o ro u g h ly w orked in to th e dough, u n til the m ixtu re
a shaggy mass is fo rm e d. 4.
5.
resem bles coarse meal, the re s u lt w ill be w h at is som e
Knead the dough very b rie fly ,
tim e s re fe rre d to as "m ealy" dough. Rubbed doughs f o r pies
i f necessary.
or ta r ts should be ro lle d o u t on a lig h tly flo u re d w o rk sur face to a p p ro xim a te ly Va in /B mm thick.
Shape and scale th e dough as
Flaky pie dough is b e st fo r pies and ta rts th a t
desired, and bake as indicated
are fille d w ith a f r u it fillin g and baked. M ealy dough is best
fo r the p a rtic u la r item .
suite d fo r pies and ta rts th a t req uire a fu lly baked shell th a t is fille d a fte r coo lin g and chilled u n til set, and fo r pies w ith J
1048
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
custa rd o r o th e r liquid fillin g s th a t are baked u n til set.
in conventional ovens. Have wire cooling racks available. Remove scones, biscuits, and breads from their baking pans and cool directly on the racks; pies and tarts cool on racks in their pans. Tarts may be removed from their pans after they are completely cooled. There are a few basic things to consider when preparing a rubbed dough: »
S if t th e dry in g red ien ts to g e th e r prior to adding th e f a t to ensure th a t all ing red ients are evenly d is trib u te d . The process o f rubbing in th e f a t w ill n ot e ffe c tiv e ly blend the dry ing red ients to g e th e r.
»
Keep th e f a t very cold. It is im p e ra tiv e th a t th e f a t rem ain cold through th e m ixing and shaping process w h e th e r you are m aking biscuits or pie dough. It is th e d is tin c t layers th a t are c re a te d through th e rubbing process th a t c re a te th e fla k y te x tu re . Once th e f a t becom es to o w arm it w ill begin to blend w ith th e flo u r and o th e r in g red ients, b e com ing m ore o f a hom ogeneous mass, which w ill com prom ise th e fin a l te x tu re o f th e fin ish ed product.
»
rubbed-dough method
Pie pans and ta rt pans require no preparation because a dough of this type contains a great amount of fat. Properly preheat ovens and adjust the rack to the center position
W o rk th e dough only as much as needed to achieve th e d esired resu lt. The fin a l stage o f any rubbed dough is to add th e liquid. It is crucial th a t th e dough is not overw orked a t th is ju n c tu re . O verw orking will p ro m o te th e d evelo p m en t o f g lu ten (th e p ro tein con tain ed in flo u r) and w ill m ake th e dough tough, so th a t it w ill be d iffic u lt to w ork w ith and it w ill have an u np leasantly hard te x tu re when baked.
chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1049
1. sift or blend the dry ingredients well before adding the fat. Good results depend on working the dough as little as possible and blending the dry ingredients at the beginning to cut down on mixing time later. Have the fa t cold so that it is still solid enough to be worked into the flour without blending the mixture into a smooth dough. Add the fa t to the dry ingredients all at once, and rub them into the fat. Don’t work the fat into the flour too thoroughly, or the end result will not be as flaky and deli cate as desired. The fa t in the mixture on the top was rubbed until the pieces were the size of shelled walnuts, which will result in a flaky pie dough. The fa t in the mixture on the bottom was rubbed until the pieces were approximately the size of peas. This will produce a mealy pie dough. Note the color difference that was achieved by rubbing the fa t into the flour more thoroughly.
m eth o d in d etail 2. make a well in the center of the flour-fat mixture and add the liquid ingredients. Slowly mix the flour together with the liquid, starting with the flour on the inside of the well and working to the outside.
mm 1050
BAKING AND PASTRY
rubbed-dough method
3. do not overwork the dough once the liquid is added; vigorous or prolonged mixing will result in a tough product. Knead the dough just until smooth. Divide and portion the dough fo r storage. Pie dough should be refrigerated after mixing and before rolling it out to the desired thickness. Use light but even pressure while rolling out the dough.
§t! l
CRUMB CRUSTS
Arubbedpiedoughismosttypicallyused forfruitpiesandcustardsthatarebaked intheovenintheircrust. Crumbcrusts, however,aresimple,flavorful,quick-tomakecruststhataretypicallyusedintwo typesofpreparations:puddingorcream 1 lb 8 o z /6 8 0 g graham cracker or o th er crumbs
4 o z /1 1 3 g sugar 6
o z /1 7 0 g b utter, m elted
1.M ixtheingredientstogetheruntil
fullycombined. Thenscalethecrust intopreparedpansandpressintoan evenlayeraboutViin/6mmthick.
piesandcheesecakes. Grahamcrackers aremostcommonlyusedasthebasefor crumbcrusts,butothertypesofcookies maybeusedfordifferentflavors. Abasicrecipeforacrumbcrustisas follows: 2 . Crum bcrustsshouldbebakedat
350°F/i77°Cuntilsetandlightgolden brown,about7minutes. Coolthe crustcompletelybeforefilling. 3. Forpuddingandcreampies,thefilling iscooked,thenpouredintothecooled bakedcrust,andrefrigerateduntilset. Forcheesecakes,thebatterispoured intothecooledbakedcrustandthen bakeduntilset.
c h a p te r 33 » PA S T R Y D O U G H S A N D BATTERS
T h e B L E N D IN G M E T H O D C O N S IS T S OF M A K IN G TW O M IX T U R E S , O NE W IT H T H E W E T IN G R E D IE N T S A N D ONE W IT H T H E DR Y IN G R E D IE N T S , T H E N C O M B IN IN G T H E T W O T O G E TH E R . T h e DR Y IN G R E D IE N T S T Y P IC A L L Y I N C L U D E F L O U R , S U G A R , SALT, C H E M I C A L L E A V E N E R S , A N D F L A V O R I N G S U C H A S S P I C E S A N D C O C O A .
the blending mixing method These ingredients are sifted and/or blended together. The fa t is added in liquid form: ei ther oil or melted butter. The fat is added to the other liquid ingredients (milk, water, juice, eggs, etc.) and blended together before it is added to the dry ingredients. First, s ift the flour with the other dry ingredients. Special flours such as cornmeal or whole wheat flour may replace some or all of the white wheat flour in a given formula to add flavor and develop a different texture. It is important to s ift the dry ingredients to remove lumps and incorporate the dry ingredients together. Thoroughly blending the dry ingredients also ensures that the leavening agent will be evenly distributed in the mixture. Sifting will ultimately help to create a fully combined batter needing minimal mixing time. Next combine the wet ingredients. Cream, milk, buttermilk, water, and even watery vegetables like zucchini are all considered wet ingredients. Solid fats like butter or shortening are most often melted
m eth o d at-a-glan ce 1.
S i f t t o g e t h e r t h e d ry in g r e d ie n t s .
2. C o m b in e t h e liq u id in g r e d ie n t s .
for this method so they can be blended with the other liquid ingredients. All ingredients should be at room temperature before being added; if too cold, they may cause the batter to separate. Finally, add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients all at once and blend, just until the dry ingredients are evenly moistened. Mixing these batters as briefly as pos sible ensures a light, delicate texture. Overmixed batters may develop too much gluten and the resulting item will not
3. A d d t h e liq u id in g r e d ie n t s t o t h e d r y in g r e d ie n t s .
4. M ix u n t il t h e b a t t e r is e v e n ly m o is te n e d .
5. A d d a n y a d d itio n a l g a r n is h . F ill p r o p e r ly p r e p a r e d p a n s a n d b a k e t h e it e m .
7. R e m o v e t h e it e m f r o m t h e p a n s , c o o l, a n d s e r v e o r p r o p e r ly s t o r e it.
1052
BAKING AND PASTRY
have the desired fine, delicate texture.
b r e a d s
, c o o k ie s , a n d
o th er
baked
g o o d s
m a d e
w it h
th e
c r e a m in g
M E T H O D D E VE LO P T H E IR L IG H T AN D A IR Y ST R U C TU R E FR OM TH E USE OF C H E M IC A L LE A V E N E R S AND T H E IN C O R P O R A T IO N OF A IR INTO T H E BATTER OR D O UG H.
the creaming method For the creaming method, firs t the fa t and sugar are blended ("creamed") until relatively smooth, light, and creamy. Then eggs are added gradually, and finally the sifted dry ingredi ents are added in one or two additions, depending on the amount of flour. If there is a liquid, the flour and liquid are added alternately, starting and ending with the flour. It is important that ingredients fo r a creamed batter or dough are at the proper temperature before you begin to mix. Fats should be softened to 65 to 70°F/18 to 21°C and the eggs and liquids (if using) should be warmed to 70°F/21°C. The fat should be pliable so that it can aerate properly. Allow the butter or other fat to come to room temperature, or beat it in a mixer with the paddle to soften it slightly. The sug ar used in creaming recipes is often granulated white sugar, although brown sugar or confec tioners’ sugar may be used in some recipes. It is the act of beating the granules of sugar into the fa t that produces the f i nal texture. Eggs included in the recipe should be at room
m eth o d at-a-g lan ce B r in g s h o r t e n in g
ing the creamed butter and sugar mixture. Flavorings
A d d t h e s i f t e d d ry
o r b u t t e r t o ro o m
in g r e d ie n t s a n d liq u id
such as vanilla extract or
te m p e r a tu re .
in g r e d ie n t s a l t e r n a t e ly ,
chocolate should be at room
in p o r tio n s . I f n o t u s in g
temperature. Chocolate is
liq u id in g r e d ie n t s , a d d
typically melted and allowed
t h e d r y in g r e d ie n t s a ll a t
to cool slightly before being
once.
blended into the batter. Liq
S i f t t h e flo u r , le a v e n e r s , a n d o t h e r d r y in g r e d ie n t s as n e c e s s a ry . 3
5.
temperature to avoid break
C re a m th e b u tte r and s u g a r u n t il t h e m ix t u r e is lig h t a n d s m o o th a n d f u l l y c o m b in e d . A d d t h e e g g s g r a d u a lly a n d m ix t h e m in u n t il t h e b a t t e r is s m o o th . S c r a p e
6 . S c a le o u t t h e b a t t e r in to p re p a re d pans and b ake
the blending mixing and creaming methods
M u f f i n s , c a k e s , q .u i c k
uid flavoring should be add ed with the eggs and the dry ingredients should be added with the flour.
t h e it e m . R e m o v e t h e it e m f r o m
Generally,
pans
are
t h e p a n s , c o o l, a n d s e r v e
greased and lightly floured,
o r p r o p e r ly s t o r e it.
orgreased, lined with parch
t h e b o w l in b e t w e e n e a c h
ment that has been cut
a d d itio n .
to size, and then greased again.
chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1053
1. cream the fat and sugar together with the paddle o f an electric mixer on medium speed. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl occasionally as you work to ensure that all the fa t is blended evenly. Continue until the mixture is pale in color and light and relatively smooth in texture. When the but ter and sugar have this appearance, it indicates that a sufficient amount o f air has been incorporated into the mixture. If the ingredients are not sufficiently creamed, the final product will be somewhat dense and lack the light, tender qualities characteristic o f creamed baked goods.
2. add room-temperature eggs gradually and in stages, fully incorporating them and scraping down the bowl a fter each addition. Scraping down the bowl is important to develop a completely smooth batter. Adding the eggs in batches will help to prevent the batter from separating.
1054
BAKING AND PASTRY
the creaming method
3. add the sifted dry ingredients all at once, or alternately with the liquid ingredients. When adding the dry alternating with the liquid, add onethird o f the dry ingredients, then about one-half o f the liquid ingredients, mixing until smooth and scraping down the bowl after each addition. Repeat this sequence until all o f the dry and liquid ingredients have been added. Increase the mixer speed and beat the batter just until it is evenly blended and smooth. Regardless of the method of addition, after adding the dry ingredients the dough or batter should be mixed minimally or just until
.
the dry ingredients are incorporated. Finally, add any remaining flavoring or garnishing ingredients, such as nuts, chocolate chips, or dried fruit, mixing or folding just until incorporated.
GENERAL MIXING GUIDELINES
W henmixingabatter,thereareafew thingstokeepinmind,regardlessofthe mixingmethod,thatwillhelpensurea successfulendresult. »Sifttogetherdryingredients(flours,spices, leaveners)toremoveanylumpsandto evenlydistributetheingredients. Spices andchemicalleavenersareimportant componentsofabatterbutaretypically usedinsmallamounts. Itisveryimpor tantthattheybeevenlydistributedfor properflavordevelopmentandtoensure anevencrumb.
»Beforemixing,all ingredientsshouldbe atroomtemperature.Ingredientsnotat thepropertemperaturecaninhibitproper mixing,causingabattertoseparateorto havelumps. »Mixingtimeinbattersallowsforthede velopmentofaircellsthatarekeytothe structureofafinishedbakeditem. They helptodevelopthecrumbandtexture duringbaking. However,itisimportant torestrictthemixingtimeaftertheflour hasbeenaddedtopreventdevelopmentof gluten,whichwouldmakethebakeditem toughorchewy.
chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1055
Lam
in a t e d
doughs
in c l u d e p u f f p a s t r y
,
c r o is s a n t
,
and
Da
n is h
.
To
m a k e a l a m in a t e d
dough
,
F O L D A N D R O L L A PR EPA RE D D OU GH ( T H E I N I T I A L D O U G H ) T O G E T H E R W I T H A BL OC K OF FAT, C A L L E D A r o l l - in . T h ro u g h a s e rie s o f f o l d s ("tu rn s "), m u lt ip le la y e r s o f d o u g h a n d f a t a re c re a te d T H A T BO TH L E A V E N A N D C O N T R I B U T E TO C R I S P N E S S , T E N D E R N E S S , A N D L I G H T N E S S .
laminated doughs The fat that separates the layers of this final dough melts during baking, providing a place for steam that is released from the dough and the fat to collect, expanding the space between the flaky layers of pastry. Proper mixing methods, rolling techniques, and temperature con trol are essential to producing laminated doughs that are flaky and delicate after baking. Folding may be the most important factor in making a laminated dough, as the distinct layers of fa t and dough must be maintained throughout the process. The dough must be rolled out evenly and the corners kept square throughout the lock-in of fa t and all subse quent folds, to ensure proper layering. The firs t fold and the step that introduces the roll-in (lamination fat) to the dough is the lock-in. The roll-in fat and the dough must be of the same consistency. Let the roll-in stand at room temperature for a few minutes if it is too hard, or re frigerate it if it is too soft.
m eth o d at-a-glan ce 1
. Prepare the dough and ro ll-in .
2
. A d m in iste r lock-in and rest.
3- Fold th e o n e -th ird o f the dough over th e m iddle o f th e dough. 4- Fold th e rem aining th ird o f the dough over th e m iddle.
To administer a lock-in, divide the sheet of dough vi sually in half. Roll the roll-in into a rectangle that is half the size of the dough sheet, and place it on one half of the dough, then fold the other half of the dough over it and seal the edges to completely encase the roll-in fat. This type of fold doubles the number of layers in the pastry. The rollin fa t can also be added to the dough using the envelope, single-fold, or three-fold technique. After the roll-in is added to the dough, subsequent folds are usually made with the three-fold technique. A f ter each fold, brush any excess flour from the surface of the dough before folding and rolling it. When you fold the dough, corners should meet squarely and the edges should
5- Rest th e dough fo r 15 to 30 m inutes to relax th e gluten. 6 . Roll the dough o ut to th e
o rig in a l th ickne ss and rep e a t the th re e -fo ld procedure, as
1056
be straight and perfectly aligned. A fter each fold, refrig erate the dough to allow it to relax and the butter to chill; the length of time the dough will need to rest will depend in large part on the temperature of the kitchen. For each fold, turn the dough 90 degrees from the pre
desired, re stin g a fte r each
vious one to ensure that the gluten is stretched equally in
th re e -fo ld .
all directions.
B A K I N G A N D PASTRY
the sheet of pastry visually into thirds.
3. fold the remaining third
of the
dough over the folded dough. This fold triples the number o f layers in the dough each time.
2. fold One
laminated doughs
1. divide
of the outerthirds of the dough over
the middle third.
m eth o d in detail
PHYLLO DOUGH
Thisdough,usedtopreparestrudeland baklava,isaleandoughmadeonlyof flourandwaterandoccasionallyasmall amountofoil. Thedoughisstretchedand rolleduntilitisextremelythin.Instead ofbeingrolledintothedough,butter ismeltedandbrushedontothedough sheetsbeforetheyarebakedsothatafter baking,theresultissimilartopuffpastry. Mostkitchenspurchasefrozenphyllo dough.Thisdoughneedssufficienttime tothawandcomeuptoroomtemperature beforeitcanbeworkedsuccessfully.After
removingphyllofromitswrapping,coverit lightlywithdampenedtowelsandplastic. Otherwisethephyllocandryoutquickly andbecomebrittleenoughtoshatter. Forthebesttexture, spreadbread crumbs,butteroroil,oracombinationof thetwoevenlyoverthedoughtokeepthe layersseparateastheybake. Useaspray bottleorbrushtoapplybutteroroilinan evencoat. Refrigeratingphyllopastries beforebakinghelpsthelayersremaindis tinctandallowsthemtorisemoreasthe pastrybakes.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
1057
A F O A M I N G M E T H O D IS A N Y M E T H O D I N W H I C H T H E E G G S A R E W H I P P E D O R B E A T E N TO I N C O R P O R A T E A IR BE FO RE T H E Y ARE F O L D E D INTO T H E R E ST OF TH E BATTER. W H E N Y O U US E A F O A M IN G M E T H O D , I T IS V I T A L T H A T A L L I N G R E D I E N T S A N D E Q U I P M E N T A R E A S S E M B L E D A N D R E C E I V E A N Y P R E L I M I N A R Y T R E A T M E N T B E F O R E Y O U B E G I N TO M I X T H E B A T T E R .
the foaming method Pans should be prepped as called f o r in the s p e c ific recipe: greased and lined o r dusted w ith flo u r. If called for, b u tte r, should be m elte d and s lig h tly cooled. Dry in g re d ie n ts such as flou r, a d d itio n a l leavener, and ground spices should be s ifte d tog ether. There are th re e basic type s o f foa m ing m ethods: cold, warm , and separated. For the cold foa m ing m ethod, whole eggs are w hipped to m axim um volum e w ith the sugar be fore being fo ld e d in to the batter. For the warm foam ing m ethod, the egg m ixtu re is heated over a w a te r bath b e fore it is whipped to m aximum volume, to create a m ore stab le foam . For the s eparat ed m ethod, the yolks and w h ites are w hipped separately w ith sugar fo r m aximum aeration.
method at-a-glance S ift the flo u r and o th e r
to m edium and beat the
d ry ing re d ie n ts as
eggs fo r 15 m inutes to
necessary.
s ta b ilize th e foam .
2. H eat th e eggs and sugar over a h ot w a te r bath to a pp ro xim a te ly 110°F/4B °C , s tirrin g to make sure th a t all o f the
Fold in th e s ifte d dry in g re d ie n ts by hand. Temper in th e fla vorin g s, m elte d b u tte r, and o th e r o p tio n a l ing re d ie nts.
sugar is dissolved. A fte r rem oving the
6. Scale out the b a tte r into prepared pans and bake it.
egg-sugar m ixtu re fro m the heat, beat it u n til
Remove the cake fro m
it reaches m axim um
th e oven and le t it cool
volume. Turn the m ixer
b rie fly in the pan.
j
1058
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
ing egg w h ite s, th a t is, m aking a m eringue and fo ld in g in s ifte d flo u r. C h iffo n cake is also made w ith fo a m e d egg w h ite s: th e sugar, fa t, flo u r, and egg yolks are com bined and the n a m eringue is fo ld e d in. For separated foam ing m ethods it is im perative th a t no trace o f yolk be in the whites. The yolk contains fa t th a t w ill prevent the egg w hites fro m whipping to fu ll volume. Just as when m aking a meringue, many people choose to wipe the bowl w ith vinegar before whipping. To m aintain th e m axim um volum e o f the egg w h ite s w h ile fo ld in g in to the b a tte r, use a large f la t spatula. Inco rp ora te a sm all am ount o f egg w h ite s in to th e b a tte r to lighte n it b e fo re fo ld in g in th e rem aining m eringue. For m axim um volum e in th e fin is h e d b a tte r, fo ld in th e m eringue q u ickly and gently.
the toaming method
There are, however, v a ria tio n s o f the se basic fo a m in g m etho ds. Two o f th e se are the m etho ds f o r m aking angel fo o d cake and c h iffo n cake. Angel fo o d cake is made by fo a m
COOLING AND STORING QUICK BREADS AND CAKES
Quickbreadsandcakesshouldbeallowed tocoolslightly(justenoughsotheycan behandled)beforeunmolding.W ireracks arebesttousebecausetheyallowairto circulateunderthepan,wheremuchheat isretained. First,gentlyhelpthecakeorloaf releasefromthepan.Runasmallmetal spatulaorknifearoundtheinsideedgeof thepan,pressingtheimplementagainst thepantoensurethatyoudonotcut intothecakeorloaf. Invertthepanonto acardboardcakeroundorwirecooling rack,gentlyshakethepanandtapitsbot tom.Liftthepantofullyreleasethebaked
item.Peelawaytheparchmentpaperfrom thebottomofthecakeorloaftoallowthe steamtoescape. Insomecases,icingsmaybedrizzled ontoitemsthatarestillslightlywarm fromtheoven,butinmostinstancescakes shouldbecompletelycooledbeforecut ting,filling,andicingorfrosting. Theshelflifeforquickbreadsandcake layersisrelativelylimitedwhentheyare leftexposedtotheair. However,theycan befrozenforuptothreeweekswhentight lywrappedinplasticwrap.Beforeserving orusetheyshouldbeallowedtothawat roomtemperature.
chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1059
1. scale and sift dry ingredients, pre pa re pans, and p re h e a t th e oven b e fo re be a tin g the eggs. The dry in g re d ie n ts m ust be com bined w ith th e eggs as soon as th e eggs have reached th e ir m axim um volum e, as th e y begin to lose volum e a fte r th e y are beaten. F o rth e w arm fo a m in g m ethod, shown here, com bine th e eggs (whole, yolk, o r w h ite s) w ith sugar in a bowl and heat the m to ab ou t 11 0 °F /4 3 °C and s tir or w h isk to c o m p le te ly dissolve th e sugar, increase th e volum e, and develop a fin e r grain. The eggs and sugar a t th e s ta r t o f m ixing are s till a deep ye llo w and re la tiv e ly thin. For th e cold fo a m in g m ethod, com bine th e eggs and sugar in th e m ixe r bowl.
method in detail 2. once the eggs and sugar are com bined, w hip th e m on m edium to high speed u n til the eggs are w h ipp ed to m axim um volum e and begin to recede fro m th e side o f th e bowl. (This ste p is done on th e mixer, n o t over th e h o t w a te r bath.) A p o in t w ill come when the fo a m does n o t appear to be in crea sing in volum e. The m ix tu re should fo rm a rib bo n as it fa lls fro m th e w ire w hip and ju s t begin to recede a fte r the fu ll volum e is reached. The eggs are p ro p e rly beaten a t th is po in t. Turn th e m ixer to m edium and b e a t th e eggs f o r 15 m in utes to sta b iliz e the foam . Fold in th e s ifte d d ry in g re d ie n ts. This is o fte n done by hand, alth ou gh som e chefs add the m w ith th e machine on the lo w e st po ssib le speed and tu rn in g the machine on and o f f as necessary. Do n o t o ve rw o rk th e b a tte r a t th is po in t, as th e fo a m could s ta r t to d e fla te , re s u ltin g in a fla t, dense cake. If using b u tte r o r an o th e r sho rte ning, te m p e r it in to th e b a tte r a fte r th e d ry in g re d ie n ts have been p ro p e rly in co rp o ra te d . These in g re d ie n ts should be w arm so th a t th e y are evenly d is trib u te d th ro u g h o u t th e b a tte r. Temper th e s h o rte n in g in g re d ie n t by blending it w ith a litt le b a t te r to re ta in m axim um volume. Scale th e b a tte r in to p re pa red baking pans and bake u n til done.
1060
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
the foaming method
3. the cake should rise evenly d u r ing baking. W hen it is p ro p e rly baked, it w ill ju s t begin to sh rin k away fro m th e sides o f th e pan. The surface should sp rin g back when pressed lig h tly . Remove the cake fro m the oven and le t it cool b rie fly in the pan. Remove it fro m th e pan and le t it cool com p le te ly on a w ire rack. Angel fo o d and c h iffo n cakes should be al lowed to cool c o m p le te ly upside down in th e pan b e fore unm olding, so th a t th e y re ta in th e ir fu ll volume. Cakes pre pa red by th e fo a m in g m ethod are o fte n m ore spongy than o th e r cakes, alth ou gh th e y do have a disce rn ib le crum b. A ngel fo o d and c h iffo n cakes are the s p o n g ie st o f th e se typ e s. The lim ite d am ount o f s h o rte n ing used gives th e se cakes a s lig h tly dry te x tu re , which is w hy the y are o fte n m oiste ne d w ith sim p le syrup. Even though th e re is a large p ro p o rtio n o f eggs in foam ed cakes, th e re should n o t be an unpleasant egg flavo r.
chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1061
P a t e a c h o u x is a p r e c o o k e d b a t t e r t h a t e x p a n d s f r o m t h e s t e a m r e l e a s e d in t h e d o u g h t o F O R M A H O L L O W S H E L L W H E N B A K E D . I t C A N BE F I L L E D , A S F O R P R O F I T E R O L E S ( c r e a m p u f f s ), O R NOT , AS FOR G OU GER ES.
pate a choux Pate a choux is made by cooking w ater, b u tte r, flo u r, and eggs in to a sm oo th b a tte r, then shaping and baking it. The shapes expand durin g baking, to cre a te a de lica te shell. Pate a choux is s o ft enough th a t a p a s try bag can be used to pipe it in to d iffe re n t shapes. Among th e m ost com m on shapes are cream p u ffs, p ro fite ro le s , and eclairs. A ll-p u rp o se flo u r may be used to make pate a choux, b u t bread flo u r is th e b e st choice because it has a higher percentage o f p ro te in . Flours w ith m ore p ro te in are able to absorb m ore liquid, which allow s m ore eggs to be added. M ore eggs w ill re s u lt in a lig h te r fin ish e d pa stry, and th e higher g luten c o n te n t w ill make a m ore e la s tic dough, which fa c ilita te s ex pansion du rin g baking. B efore beginning a pate a choux, s if t the flo u r. Line th e sheet pans w ith parchm ent. A s sem ble a m ixe r fit te d w ith a bow l and paddle b e fo re the cooking process begins. The p o t selected fo r cooking the b a tte r needs to be large enough to hold th e liquid, fa t, and flou r, w ith enough room to s tir v ig o ro u sly w ith no spillage.
1062
B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
pate a choux
D
basic formula
Pats a ChoUX
lp a rtflo u r
2 parts liquid (by weight) 2 parts egg 1 part fat
method at-a-glance Bring th e liqu id and fa t to a boil, m aking sure th a t the fa t is m elted.
2. Add th e flo u r all a t once and cook the m ixtu re .
3. M ix it u n til cool. 4. Add th e eggs gra du ally and m ix th em in.
Water and milk
are the two most common liquids used for making
pate a choux. Each produces significantly different results; each is best suited for different uses, depending on your needs.
Water For pate a choux made with water, the temperature of the oven should be re
5. Pipe o u t th e b a tte r.
duced during baking. Start with a higher temperature when you first put the
6. Bake th e item s.
dough. After the dough is fully puffed, lower the temperature to dry out the
pastries in the oven. This encourages more steam and greater expansion of the
pastry completely, for a very light and crisp result.
Milk Milk causes the pastry to brown more quickly, before the pastry has a chance to completely dry out. The result is that pate a choux made with milk will be slightly moist and tender. The solids present in milk will also impart more flavor.
Half each Depending on your needs, you can also make pate a choux with half water and half milk for a result somewhere between the two.
Other ingredients
can be added to change the flavor and appear
ance of the pate a choux: CHEESE / FRESH HERBS / DRIED SPICES / COCOA POWDER (SUBSTITUTE FOR 2 O Z /5 7 G OF THE FLOUR AND INCREASE SUGAR BY l V i O Z /4 3 G)
Raw ba tte r may be piped and frozen. Baked pate a choux can be frozen and refreshed in the oven.
Chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1063
1. bring the liquid and butter to a fu ll boil. Add th e flo u r all a t once and cook, s tirrin g con sta n tly . Be sure to have th e liq u id a t a ro llin g bo il b e fo re adding th e flo u r. As pa te a choux is s tirre d and cooked, a film s ta rts to develop on th e b o tto m o f th e pan. Cook u n til th e m ix tu re pulls aw ay fro m th e pan, fo rm in g a ball. Trans fe r th e m ix tu re to a m ixe r bowl. Using the paddle, m ix th e dough f o r a fe w m in utes to cool it s lig h tly . This w ill p re ven t the heat o f th e dough fro m c o o k in g th e eggs as they are w o rked in to th e m ixtu re . The eggs should be added gradually, in th re e o r fo u r ad d itio n s, w o rk in g th e dough u n til it is sm oo th each tim e. Scrape down th e sides and b o tto m o f th e bow l as neces sary. C ontinue to add eggs g ra du ally checking th e con sistency. S top ad ding eggs when th e choux slo w ly slides down th e paddle.
2. pipe the dough o n to prepared sheet pans acco rding to th e de sire d re s u lt and egg wash, if desired. A llo w th e choux to re s t f o r 2 0 m in utes in th e open a ir to develop a skin; th is helps m aintain th e shape du rin g the baking process. Bake u n til th e dough is p u ffe d and golden brown, w ith no beads o f m o istu re on th e sides. Begin by baking at a high te m p e ra tu re (37 5° to 4 0 0 °F /1 9 1 ° to 204°C ). Reduce th e heat to 3 2 5 °F /1 6 3 °C once the dough begins to ta ke on color. Continue to bake th e pate a choux u n til it is c o m p le te ly dry. Remove fro m th e oven.
1064
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
13 P > c+
3. evaluate th e baked pa te a choux. When p ro p
O)
e rly p re pa red and baked, pate a choux has a d e fin ite g o ld P
en co lo r because o f th e high p ro p o rtio n o f eggs. This co lo r
n
does n o t change d ra s tic a lly du rin g baking. The dough w ill
'
baking. P ro p e rly baked pate a choux appears p e rfe c tly
tr o
dry, w ith o u t m o istu re beads on th e sides o r to p . P rop er
c
have sw elled to several tim e s its o rig in a l volum e durin g
baking produces a dry, d e lic a te te x tu re . Eggs should be th e p re d o m in a n t fla v o r o f p a te a choux. Remove th e m o is t in te rio r b e fo re ad ding fillin g fo r eclairs o r p u ffs o f any kind.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
1065
guidelines for shaping and baking cookies Cookies are prepared in many d iffe re n t ways: piped, scooped, sliced, and m olded, to name ju s t a few . They are o fte n served a t receptions, as p a rt o f a d e sse rt b u ffe t, o r w ith ice cream o r sorb et. An a s s o rtm e n t o f cookies m ig h t be presented a t the end o f a meal as an appealing extra. Cookies contain a high percentage o f sugar, so the oven te m p e ra tu re m ust be ca re fu lly reg ulated du rin g baking. C onvection ovens, which produce evenly baked item s, are espe c ia lly good f o r baking many kinds o f cookies. Cookie doughs and b a tte rs can be prepared using d iffe re n t m ixing m ethods. Some m ust be shaped and baked as soon as th e b a tte r o r dough is prepared. O thers need to be chille d b e fo re th e y are shaped. Prepare the dough or b a tte r as d ire cte d in the recipe and assem ble the to o ls needed to shape and bake the cookies.
DROP COOKIES Drop cookies ty p ic a lly spread as th e y bake, so allow enough room fo r the m to expand w ith ou t tou chin g each other. A rrange th e cookies in even row s fo r even baking. Bake drop coo k ies a t 3 2 5 ° to B 5 0 °F /1 6 3 ° to 177°C u n til the b o tto m s are golden brow n and the cookies are baked throu gh b u t s till m oist. Cool on w ire racks and s to re in tig h tly w rapped co n ta in ers a t room te m p e ra tu re , o r fre e ze f o r longer storage.
ROLLED AND CUT COOKIES Rolled and cut cookies are made fro m s t if f doughs th a t are o fte n allow ed to chill th o r oughly b e fo re rollin g. W hile th e dough chills, line she et pans w ith pa rchm e nt paper. Roll o u t th e dough on a lig h tly flo u re d w o rk surface, using the same tech niq ue as described fo r ro llin g pie dough (see Lining a Pie o rT a rt Pan, page 1122). L ig h tly du st the ro llin g pin as you w ork. For som e cookies, the w o rk surface and ro llin g pin can be du sted w ith co n fe c tio n e rs ' sugar. Very rich and de lica te cookie doughs can be rolled o u t betw een tw o sheets o f parchm ent. When you have fin is h e d rolling, th e dough should be even and ge ne rally no m ore than Vs to Vfe in /3 to 4 mm th ick. Be sure th a t the dough is n o t s tic k in g to the w o rk surface as you ro ll it out. C u tte rs o f variou s shapes and sizes can be used, or you can cu t th e dough in to shapes w ith a knife . As you w ork, dip th e c u tte r o r k n ife blade in to a sm all am ount o f flo u r o r con fe c tio n e rs ’ sugar to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the dough. T ransfer the cookies to th e sheet pan and bake in a 3 5 0 °F /1 7 7 °C oven u n til the edges o f the cookies ju s t s ta rt to tu rn golden. Im m ediately tra n s fe r the m to a w ire cooling rack to pre ven t ove rcoo king them . S to re these cookies w e ll w rapped o r in a irtig h t con tain ers a t room te m p e ra tu re . Shaped cookies are o fte n glazed o r iced. These coatings should be applied a fte r the cookie is c o m p le te ly cool. If th e cookies are to be fro ze n fo r longer storage, fre e ze them plain and de cora te o r ice the m a fte r th e y have thaw ed.
T W IC E -B A K E D COOKIES B is c o tti o r tw ice -b a ke d cookies are a ty p e o fm o ld e d a n d sliced cookie. They are made in to a ha lf-m o o n -sh a p e d log fo rm e d d ire c tly on lined sheet pans. Once baked, th e b is c o tti are sliced to make in dividu al cookies. They are re tu rn e d to th e oven on p a rchm e nt-lin ed sheet pans to lig h tly to a s t and dry.
1066
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Piped cookies are shaped as soon as th e dough is com p le te d, so you should assem ble all you r e q uipm en t b e fo re s ta rtin g to m ix th e b a tte r. P a stry bags and tip s should be assem bled and th e sheet pans should be greased or lined w ith parchm ent. As soon as th e dough is p ro p e rly m ixed, tra n s fe r it to the p a s try bag w ith a ru b be r spatula and tw is t the to p o f the bag to express any a ir pockets. Squeeze th e p a s try bag to fo rm a cookie and release the pressure on th e bag once it is th e desired size. Arrange the cookies in neat, even row s and leave som e room f o r th e cookies to spread as th e y bake.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
guidelines for shaping and baking cookies
PIPED COOKIES
1067
1
2
Drop cookies 1 .
Drop cookies are o fte n shaped and baked as soon as th e dough is
m ixed, so prepare she et pans by linin g the m w ith pa rchm e nt paper b e fo re m ixin g th e dough. M o s t d ro p coo kie doughs are prepa red by th e cream ing or th e fo a m in g m ethod. A v a rie ty o f scoop sizes are com m only used to p o rtio n coo kie dough. To p o rtio n d ro p cookies w ith a scoop, f ill a scoop o f th e ap p ro p ria te size w ith dough and level it o ff, the n release it on to th e p a rch m e n tlined she et pan. If in d ica te d in th e fo rm u la , fla tte n th e m ounded dough f o r a m ore even spread.
2.
The dough f o r m ost drop cookies can also be p o rtio n e d by slicin g ra th e r
than scooping; th is m ethod is ve ry e ffic ie n t fo r volum e p ro d u ctio n . To p o rtio n dough by th is m ethod, scale it in to m anageable p o rtio n s and shape each one in to a log. W rap th e dough in pa rchm e nt paper or p la s tic wrap, using it to com press th e dough in to a com p act cylinder, and re frig e ra te o r fre e z e u n til firm . Slice the dough in to u n ifo rm slices.
1068
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
drop and stenciled cookies
Stenciled cookies 1 .
S te n cile d cookies are made fro m a ve ry s o ft b a tte r. The b a tte r can
be pre pa red and held w h ile you assem ble th e to o ls f o r shaping and baking. S te n cils made o f heavy fle x ib le p la s tic can be purchased, o r you can cu t the m fro m s tu rd y cardboard. Line she et pans w ith silicon e baking m ats or use an in ve rte d she et pan th a t has been greased, flo u re d , and the n fro ze n . Freezing th e pan helps th e grease and flo u r s tic k to th e pan ra th e r tha n com ing o f f on the coo kie as it is sten cile d. Lay th e s te n c il on th e p re pa red she et pan and d ro p a sp o o n fu l o f b a tte r in to th e ste n cil. Spread i t in to an even layer w ith a sm all o ffs e t spa tula o r the back o f a spoon.
2.
Remove th e s te n c il and re p e a t u n til the sheet is fille d . These cookies
do n o t spread, b u t be sure to allow enough room so th a t th e s te n c il w ill n o t d is tu rb any cookies alrea dy shaped. Bake c a re fu lly, keeping a close eye on th e cookies.
3.
Q uickly press th e h o t cookies in to a concave m old o r over a ro llin g pin
to shape the m in to tu ile s . A lte rn a tiv e ly , shape th e tu ile s over glass o r a PVC pipe to make th e m in to cups. Tuiles may be used to hold a scoop o f ice cream, mousse, o r as a d e co ra tive garnish.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
1069
Basic Pie Dough (3-2-1)
B u tte r m ilk Biscuits M akes 4 0 biscuits
3 lb 8 oz/1.59 kg all-purpose flour
M akes 6 lb 6 oz/ 2 . 8 g kg
4 o z /1 1 3 g s u g a r 3 lb /1.36 kg all-purpose flour
3 o z/8 5 g baking powder
1 o z/2 8 g salt
3/ t oz/21 g salt
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cubed, cold
1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, cubed, cold
1 lb /4 5 4 g cold water
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
1 . Com binetheflourandsaltthoroughly.Usingyour
fingertips,gentlyrubthebutterintotheflourto formlargeflakesorwalnut-sizepiecesforanex tremelyflakycrust,oruntilitlookslikeacoarse mealforafinercrumb. 2 .A ddthewaterallatonceandmixuntilthedough justcomestogether.Itshouldbemoistenoughto holdtogetherwhenpressedintoaball. 3. Turnoutthedoughontoaflouredw orksurfaceand shapeintoanevenrectangle.W rapthedoughwith plasticandchillfor20to30minutes. 4 . Thedoughisreadytorolloutnow ,oritmaybe refrigeratedforupto3daysorfrozenforupto6 weeks. (Thawfrozendoughintherefrigeratorbefore rollingitout.) 5. Scalethedoughasnecessary,usingabout1oz/28g ofdoughper1in/3cm°fP'ePandiameter. 6. Torolloutthedough,workonaflouredsurfaceand rollthedoughintothedesiredshapeandthickness withsmooth,evenstrokes. 7.Transferthedoughtoapreparedpieortartpan,or cutandfitintotartletpans.Theshellisreadytofill orbakeblindnow.
1070
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g buttermilk Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1. Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper. 2.. Com binetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalt. 3.Usingyourfingertips,gentlyrubthebutterintothe
dryingredientsuntilthemixturehastheappearance ofacoarsemeal. 4 . Com binetheeggsandbuttermilk.Addtotheflour mixture, tossingtocombine. 5. Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredw orksurface toathicknessof1in/3cman(icutoutthebiscuits witha2-in/5-cmcutter. 6. Placethebiscuitsonthepreparedpanandlightly brushwitheggwash. 7 Bakeat425°F/2i8°Cuntilgoldenbrow n,about15 minutes. 8. Transferthebiscuitstowireracksandcool completely. .
Cream Scones M akes 5 dozen scones
M akes 4 loaves
5 lb 10 o z/2.55 kg bread flour
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg all-purpose flour
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g s u g a r
2 'A o z/71 g baking powder
5 'A o z / 1 4 9 g b akin g po w d e r
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
2'/4 0 z / 6 4 g s a l t
l'/4 ts p /4 g s a lt
4 lb 10 oz/2.10 kg heavy cream, cold
5 'A o z/1 5 6 g butter, cubed, cold
6 o z /1 7 0 g m ilk
6 o z/1 7 0 g currants
6 o z/1 7 0 g coarse sugar
V2 o z/1 4 g caraway seeds
1 . Com binetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltin
anelectricmixerandmixonmediumspeedwiththe paddleuntilwellblended,about5minutes.Addthe creamandmixjustuntilcombined. 2 . Scalethedoughintoportionsthatare2lb5oz/1.05 kgeachandpateachportionbyhandintoacakepan orring10in/25cmindiameter. Removethedough fromthering,placeitonaparchment-linedsheet pan,andfreezethoroughly 3. Cuteachdiskinto10equalw edgesandplacethe wedgesonparchment-linedsheetpans. Brushwith themilkandsprinklewiththecoarsesugar. 4 . Bakeina350°F/i77°Covenuntilgoldenbrow n,20 to25minutes. 5. Coolthesconesonthepansforafewm inutes,then transferthemtowirerackstocoolcompletely. Raisin Scones: Add 3 lb/1.36 kg raisins to the dough ju st before blending in the wet ingredients. Ham and Cheddar Scones: Omit the milk and coarse sugar. Add 3 lb/1.36 kgsm all-dice ham, 3 bunches green onions (chopped), and 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g diced Cheddar cheese to the flo u r m ixture before blending in the cream.
1072
Irish Soda Bread
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g milk
1. Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,sugar,and
salt. 2 . Usingyourfingertips,gentlyrubthebutterinto thedryingredients,untilitistheconsistencyof cornmeal. 3.A ddthecurrantsandcarawayseedsandtosstogether. Addthemilkandblenduntilthedoughformsa shaggymass. 4 . Turnoutthedoughontoalightlyflouredw orksur faceandkneadfor20seconds. 5. Scaleintoi-lb/454-gportionsandround.Placeon aparchment-linedsheetpan.Dustthetopsofthe loaveslightlywithflourand,withaparingknife, gentlypressanXontothetopsurfaceofeachloaf. 6. Bakeina425°F/2i8°Covenuntilbrownedandbaked through,45to60minutes. Totestfordoneness, insertawoodenskewerintothethickestpartofthe loaf.Theskewershouldnothaveanycrumbscling ingtoit. 7. Rem ovetheloavesfromthepanandcoolthemcom pletelyonwireracksbeforeslicingandserving.
Makes10servings 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g all-purpose flour 1 o z/2 8 g baking powder 1 ts p /6 g baking soda 1 ts p /3 g s a lt 4 '/2 o z /1 2 8 g sugar 8 eggs 2 lb /9 0 7 g buttermilk 4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, melted Vegetable oil, as needed
1. Sifttheflour,bakingpow der,bakingsoda,salt, and
sugarintoalargebowl.Makeawellinthecenter. 2.. Com binetheeggswiththebuttermilkandmixwell. Pourallatonceintothecenterofthedryingredi ents.Mixslowlywithawhiskinacontrolledcircular motion. 3.A ddthebutterwhenaboutthree-quartersofthedry ingredientsaremoistened.Continuetomixonly untilthebutterisworkedin.Donotovermix. 4 . Keepthebattercool,ifm akinglargebatches,by holdingitoveranicebath,ordividingandkeeping theextrabatterintherefrigerator. 5. H eatalargeskilletorgriddleovermediumheat, lightlygreasedwithvegetableoilorclarifiedbutter. 6. Ladleapproximately2V2floz/75mLofbatteronto thepanforeachpancake.W henbubblesbreakand thebottomisgoldenbrown,1to2minutes,turn over.Finishcookingonthesecondside,about1min ute. Serveimmediately.
Basic W a ffle s: Replace the whole eggs w ith separated eggs. Mix the egg yolks w ith the butterm ilk, and continue with steps 2 and 3. Whip the egg whites to m edium -stiff peaks. Fold the egg whites into the finished batter. Heat a w a ffle iron to 350°F/177°C and grease it lightly with oil. Ladle the b a tte r into the w a ffle iron, close it, and cook the w a ffle s until golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. (The amount o f ba tte r required w ill vary according to the size o f the w a ffle iron.) Banana Pancakes: Omit 5 oz/142 g o f the butterm ilk. Add 8 oz/227 g chopped bananas. C hocolate Chip Pancakes: Fold 8 o z/2 2 7 g chocolate chips and 2 V 2 oz/71 g toasted pecans or walnuts into the finished batter. B lu eb erry Pancakes: Fold 8 oz/2 2 7 g blueberries into the ba tte r ju st before cooking the pancakes. O atm eal Pancakes: Replace 2 V 2 oz/71 g o f the flo u r with 4 o z /1 1 3 g oatmeal, 1 ts p /2 gground cinnamon, ts p / 0.50 g grated nutmeg, and a pinch of ground cloves.
Va
ch a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
pastry dough and batter recipes
B u tte rm ilk Pancakes
1073
Fried Bread (Pun)
Johnny Cakes
M akes 10 servings
M akes 10 servings
1 lb 8 o z/6 80 g all-purpose flour
6 'A o tz lY ll g all-purpose flour
1 tb s p /1 0 g s a lt
&A o z/1 7 7 g cornmeal
B tb sp /4 5 mL vegetable oil, plus as needed for pan frying
l t s p /3 g s a lt 3 o z /8 5 g s u g a r
8 o z/2 2 7 g water, warm
3/ t oz/21 g baking soda
1 . Placetheflourinabow l, sprinklewiththesalt,and
add3tbsp/45mLoil. Graduallyaddthewaterand kneadthedoughuntilfirm,about5minutes. Cover thedoughwithamoistclothandletitrestfor15 minutes. 2 .Rollthedoughintoacylinder12in/30cmlongand portionitinto12equalballs.Usingalittleflourfor dusting,rolleachpieceofthedoughintoa5-in/ 13-cmround. 3. Panfryeachpieceofdough,oneatatim e, inoil heatedto350°F/i77°Cuntilitpuffsupandbecomes lightbrown,about40seconds. 4 . Serveim mediately.
1074
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
V2 o z/1 4 g baking powder 1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g buttermilk 6 eggs, lightly beaten
13A o z/5 0 g butter, melted 2 o z/5 7 g corn kernels, cooked (optional) 3 tb s p /4 5 mL vegetable oil
1. Sifttogethertheflour,cornm eal, salt, sugar,baking
soda,andbakingpowderintoalargebowl. 2 Inaseparatebow l,whisktogetherthebuttermilk, eggs,andhalfofthemeltedbutter. 3.A ddthewetingredientstothedryingredients.Add theremainingbutter. Stirwithawoodenspoonto combine.Thebatterwillbeslightlylumpy. 4 .A ddthecorn,ifusing,andmixwell. 5. H eatagriddleorlargecast-ironskilletuntilmoder atelyhotandbrushlightlywithoil. 6. Foreachcake,dropthebatterontothegriddlewith a2floz/6omLladle. Leaveabout1in/3cm°fspace betweenthecakes. 7. Cookthecakesuntiltheundersidesarebrow n,the edgesbegintodry,andbubblesbegintobreakthe surfaceofthebatter, 3to5minutes.Turnthecakes andcookthemuntilthesecondsidesarebrown, about2minutes. 8. Servethecakesimmediatelyorkeepthemwarm, uncovered,inalowoven.Donotholdthecakeslon gerthan30minutes,ortheywillbecometough. .
pastry dough and batter recipes
Crepes Suzette
Makes10servings
3 o z/8 5g su g a r 12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cubed 3 o z/8 5 g grated orange zest 6 o z/1 7 0 g orange juice 30 Dessert Crepes (recipe follows) 6 o z/1 7 0 g Grand Marnier 6 o z/1 7 0 g brandy or cognac
1 .W orkinbatchesoflor2servingsatatime.
Sprinklethesugarevenlyacrossthebottomof apreheatedsuzettepanovermediumheatona rechaudwithoutallowingthespoontotouchthe bottom(whichcancausethesugartocrystallize). 2 .A sthesugarbeginstocaramelize,addthebutterat theoutsideedgesofthepanandgentlyshakethe pan;thisallowsthebuttertoevenlytemperand blendwiththesugar. 3.A ddthezestandgentlyshakethepantothorough lyblendalltheingredients,whichshouldbecome alightorangecaramelcolor. 4 .Slow lypourinthejuiceattheoutsideedgesof thepan,allowingittotemperandblendwiththe sugar. 5.Shakethepangently,incorporatingalltheingredi entsandallowingthesaucetothicken. 6. Sandwichonecrepebetweenaforkandaspoon andplaceitintothesauce. Flipthecrepeoverto coattheotherside. Setitasideonaparchmentlinedsheetpan. 7.Repeatw iththeremainingcrepes,movingquickly sothesaucedoesnotbecometoothick. 8. Removethepanfromtherechaudandaddthe GrandMarnier. Donotflameit. Returnthepanto therechaudandshakegently. 9 .Slidethepanbackandforthoverthefrontedgeof therechaud,allowingthepantogethot. 10.Removethepan,addthebrandy,andtipthepan slightlytoflame. Shakethepanuntiltheflame dies. 11 .Platethreecrepesperportion,shinglingoneover theother, andcoatwithsauce.
top:
Ladle the crepe b a tte r while sw irling it to coat the en
tire surface o f the pan evenly. Be sure th a t the crepe is o f a uniform thickness or it w ill cook unevenly. bottom
:
Once the edges turn golden brown, flip the crepe to
finish cooking it.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BATTERS
1075
Dessert Crepes
P u ff Pastry Dough
Makes20to30crepes
Makes8lb12ozli-97kg
4 eggs
2 lb /9 0 7 g bread flour
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
8 o z/2 2 7 g pastry flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter, soft
V2 o z/1 4 g vegetable oil
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g w a te r
8 o z/2 2 7 g all-purpose flour
1 o z/2 8 g salt
2 o z/5 7 g confectioners' sugar
ROLL-IN
1 ts p /3 g salt
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg butter, pliable (60°F/16°C )
V/2 ts p /7 .5 0 mL vanilla extract
4 o z /1 1 3 g bread flour
1. Com binetheeggs,cream,milk,andoilandbeatjust
untilblended. 2.. Sifttheflour,sugar,andsaltintoabow l. 3.A ddthewetingredientsandmixuntilsmooth, scrapingdownthebowlasnecessary.Addtheva nilla. Stirjustuntiltheingredientsareblended intoarelativelysmoothbatter. (Thebattermaybe preparedtothispointandrefrigeratedforupto12 hours. Strainthebatterifnecessarybeforecooking thecrepes.) 4 . Ladleasm allamountofbatterintoapreheated,but teredcrepepanovermediumheat, swirlingthepan tocoatthebottomwithbatter. 5.W henthecrepehasset,turnitoverandfinishon theotherside. 6. Fillasdesired,rollorfold,oruseinotherdesserts (seeCrepesSuzette, page1075). NOTE: The cooked crepes may be cooled, stacked between parchment paper, and wrapped and refrigerated or frozen. Thaw frozen crepes before fillin g and folding.
1 . Placetheflours,butter,w ater,andsaltintothebowl
ofanelectricmixerfittedwiththedoughhook. 2 .M ixonlowspeeduntilasmoothdoughforms,about 3minutes. 3. Shapethedoughintoaroughrectangle.Transferit toasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper,wrapthe doughinplasticwrap,andallowittorelaxinthe refrigeratorfor30to60minutes. 4 . Topreparetheroll-in,blendthebutterandflour onlowspeedwiththepaddleuntilsmooth,about2 minutes. Transferittoasheetofparchmentpaper. Coverwithasecondsheetandrollintoarectangle 8by12in/20by30cm.Squareofftheedges,cover withplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirmbutstill pliable. Donotallowtheroll-intobecomecold. 5.Tolocktheroll-inintothedough,transferthedough toalightlyflouredworksurfaceandrollitintoa rectangle16by24in/41by61cm,keepingtheedges straightandthecornerssquare. Settheroll-inon halfofthedoughandfoldtheremaininghalfof thedoughovertheroll-in.Sealtheedges,turnthe dough90degrees,androllitintoarectangle16by 24in/41by61cm,makingsuretheedgesarestraight andthecornersaresquare. 6. Administerafour-fold.Coverthedoughinplastic wrapandallowittorestfor30to45minutesinthe refrigerator. 7 Turnthedoughgodegreesfromitspositionbefore itwasrefrigeratedandrollitintoarectangle16by 24in/41by61cm,makingsuretheedgesarestraight andthecornersaresquare.Administerathree-fold. Coverthedoughinplasticwrapandallowittorest for30to45minutesintherefrigerator. .
1076
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Blitz P u ff Pastry Dough
Makes5lb/2.2ykg
1 lb /4 5 4 g cake flour 1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour 2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cubed, cold 3/ t o z /2 1 gsalt 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g water, cold
1. Com binethefloursinthebowlofanelectricmixer.
Addthebutterandtosswithyourfingertipsuntilthe butteriscoatedwithflour.Dissolvethesaltinthe waterandaddtotheflourallatonce. Mixonlow speedwiththedoughhookuntilthedoughformsa shaggymass. 2 .Turnthedoughoutontoaparchm ent-linedsheet pan.Tightlycoverthemixturewithplasticwrapand allowittorestintherefrigeratoruntilthebutteris firmbutnotbrittle,about20minutes. 3. Placethem assonalightlyflouredworksurfaceand rollitintoarectangleV2in/icmthickandapproxi mately12by30in/30by76cm. 4 .Adm inisterafour-fold.Rollthedoughagaintothe samedimensions.Administerathree-fold.Tightly wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandallowittorestin therefrigeratorfor30to45minutes. 5. Repeatthisprocessforatotalof2four-foldsand2 three-folds, refrigeratingandturningthedough90 degreeseachtimebeforerolling.Aftercompleting thefinalfold,wrapthedoughinplasticwrapand allowittofirmintherefrigeratorforatleast1hour. (Thedoughcanbeheldrefrigeratedorfrozen.)
ch a p te r 33 » PA S T R Y D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
pastry dough and batter recipes
Repeatthisprocessforatotalof2four-foldsand2 three-folds,turningthedough90degreeseachtime beforerollingandallowingthedoughtorestinthe refrigeratorfor30to45minutes,coveredinplastic wrap,betweeneachfold. Aftercompletingthefinalfold,wrapthedoughin plasticwrapandallowittorestintherefrigerator foratleast1hourbeforeusing.
1077
Basic M u ffin Recipe
Bran M uffins
Makesl dozenmuffins
Makes1dozenmuffins
13 o z/3 69 g all-purpose flour
12 o z/3 4 0 g bread flour
1 tb sp /9 g baking powder
1 o z/2 8 g baking powder
1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar
8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g butter, soft
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter, soft
l'/2 ts p /5 g s a lt
lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt
5 o z/1 4 2 g eggs
4 eggs
5 o z/1 4 2 g buttermilk
8 o z /2 2 7 gm ilk
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
2 o z/5 7 g honey
2Vi
oz/71 g vegetable oil
2 o z/5 7 g coarse sugar
1. Coatthem uffintincupswithalightfilmoffator
useappropriatepaperliners. 2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingpow der. 3. Creamthesugar,butter, andsaltinanelectricm ixer onmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdown thebowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmooth andlightincolor,about5minutes. 4 .W hisktogethertheeggs,buttermilk,vanilla,and oil.Addtothebutter-sugarmixtureintwoorthree additions, mixinguntilfullyincorporatedaftereach additionandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded. 5.A ddthesifteddryingredientsandmixonlowspeed untilevenlymoistened. 6. Scaleabout3oz/85gofbatterintoeachprepared muffincup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull. Gently tapthefilledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles. Sprinkle withcoarsesugar. 7. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilaskew erinsertednearthe centerofamuffincomesoutclean,about30minutes. 8. Coolthemuffinsinthetinsforafewminutes,then unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool completely. C ranberry-O range M u ffin s : Fold in 11 oz/312 gcranberries (fresh or frozen) and I V 2 o z /4 3 g g ra te d orange zest a fte r adding the dry ingredients. Blu eb erry M u ffin s : Fold in 12 oz/340 g blueberries (fresh or frozen) a fte r adding the dry ingredients.
1078
BAKING AND PASTRY
2 o z/5 7 g molasses 4 o z/1 1 3 g wheat bran
1. Coatthem uffintincupswithalightfilmoffator
useappropriatepaperliners. 2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingpow der. 3. Creamthesugar,butter,andsaltinanelectricm ixer onmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdown thebowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmooth andlightincolor,about5minutes. 4 . Com binetheeggsandmilkandaddtothebutter mixtureinthreeadditions,mixinguntilfullyincor poratedaftereachadditionandscrapingdownthe bowlasneeded.Addthehoneyandmolassesand blenduntiltheyarejustincorporated. 5 .A ddthesifteddryingredientsandthebranandmix onlowspeeduntilevenlymoistened. 6. Scale3V2oz/99gofbatterintoeachpreparedmuffin cup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull.Gentlytapthe filledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles. 7. Bakeat375^/19i°Cuntilaskew erinsertednearthe centerofamuffincomesoutclean,about20minutes. 8. Coolthemuffinsinthetinsforafewminutes,then unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool completely.
Makes1dozenmuffins
Banana-Nut Bread Makes6loaves
11 o z/3 1 2 g all-purpose flour
4 lb 4 o z/1.93 kg bananas, very ripe, unpeeled
5 o z/1 4 2 g cornmeal
1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
2 lb 13 o z/1.28 kg all-purpose flour
1 tb sp /9 g baking powder
2 ts p /6 g baking powder
4 eggs
V* oz/21 g baking soda
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
l ’/4 ts p /4 g salt
6 o z/1 7 0 g vegetable oil
2 lb 13 o z/1 .2 8 kg sugar
2 tb s p /3 0 mL orange juice concentrate
6 eggs
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
13 o z/3 6 9 g vegetable oil
1. Coatthem uffintincupswithalightfilmofbutter
andalightdustingofcornmeal,oruseappropriate paperliners. 2 . Com binetheflour,cornmeal, salt,andbakingpow derinabowlandstirtogetherwithawirewhisk. 3. Com binetheeggs,milk,oil, orangejuiceconcen trate,andsugarinanelectricmixerandmixonme diumspeedwiththepaddleuntillightincolorand smooth,about2minutes. 4 .A ddthedryingredientstotheeggmixtureand blendonmediumspeedjustuntilcombined,scrap ingdownthebowlasnecessary. 5. Scaleabout3oz/85gofbatterintoeachprepared muffincup,fillingthemthree-quartersfull. Gently tapthefilledtinstoreleaseanyairbubbles. 6. Bakeat400°F/204°Cuntilaskewerinsertednear thecenterofamuffincomesoutclean,about20 minutes. 7. Coolthem uffinsinthetinsforafewminutes, then unmoldandtransferthemtowirerackstocool completely.
8 o z /2 2 7 g pecans
1. Coatsix2-lb/907-gloafpansw ithalightfilmoffat. 2 . Pureethebananasandlem onjuicetogether. 3. Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,bakingsoda,
andsalt. 4 . Com binethesugar,bananapuree,eggs,andoilinan electricmixerandmixonmediumspeedwiththe paddleuntilblended.Scrapethebowlasneeded. 5. A ddthesifteddryingredientsandmixjustuntil combined.Mixinthepecans. 6. Scale1lb14oz/851gofthebatterintoeachprepared loafpan.Gentlytapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyair bubbles. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthebreadspringsback whenpressedandatesterinsertednearthecenter comesoutclean,about55minutes. 8. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewminutes,then unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool completely.
pastry dough and batter recipes
Corn M uffins
Corn bread: Coat a pan 9 by 9 in/23 by 23 cm in diam eter w ith a light film o f b u tte r and a light dusting o f cornmeal. Pour the ba tte r into the pan and bake at 400°F/204°C until a skewer inserted near the center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Allow the bread to cool and cut into desired shapes.
chapter 33 » P A S T R Y D O U G H S A N D B A T T E R S
1079
>e 1081), Blueberry M u ffin s (page 1078), and Banana-Nut Bread (page 1079)
Makes4loaves
Pound Cake Makes4cakes
2 lb /9 0 7 g all-purpose flour
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter
2 ts p /6 g baking powder
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sugar
3Aoz/21 g baking soda
1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest
1 tb s p /lO g s a lt
l'/2 t s p /5 g s a lt
2 ts p /4 g ground cinnamon
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour
13 o z/3 6 9 g vegetable oil
5 o z/1 4 2 g cornstarch
2 lb 12 o z/1.25 kg sugar
3Ao z/21 g baking powder
2 lb /9 0 7 g pumpkin puree
2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs
8 eggs 13 o z/3 69 g water 7 o z /1 9 8 g chopped toasted pecans
1. Coatfour2-lb/go7-gloafpansw ithalightfilmoffat
oruseappropriatepanliners. 2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,bakingsoda, salt,andcinnamon. 3. Com binetheoil, sugar,pumpkinpuree,eggs,and waterinanelectricmixer. Usingthepaddle,mixon lowspeeduntilfullyblended. 4 .A ddthesifteddryingredientsandblendjustuntil incorporated,scrapingthesidesofthebowlasnec essary.Blendinthenuts. 5. Scalel lb14oz/851gofbatterintoeachpan.Gently tapthefilledpanstoreleaseanyairbubbles. 6. Bakeina350°F/i77°Covenuntilaskewerinserted nearthecenterofeachloafcomesoutcleanandthe centersspringbackwhengentlypressed,1to1V2 hours. 7. Cooltheloavesinthepansforafewm inutes. Removefromthepansandcoolcompletelyonwire racksbeforeslicingandservingorwrappingfor storage.
1. Greasefour2-lb/907-gloafpansandlinew ithparch
mentpaper. 2 . Creamthebutter, sugar,lem onzest,andsaltinan electricmixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle, scrapingdownthebowlasneeded,untilthemixture issmoothandlightincolor. 3. Sifttogethertheflour,cornstarch,andbakingpow der. 4.M ixingonlowspeed,addtheeggsalternatelywith thesifteddryingredientsinthreestages. 5. Scale1lb10oz/737gofbatterintoeachprepared pan. 6. Bakeina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilaskewerinserted nearthecenterofthecakecomesoutclean,about 45minutes. 7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm inutes,then unmoldandtransferthemtowireracksandcool completely.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
pastry dough and batter recipes
Pumpkin Bread
1081
Devil's Food Cake
Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)
Makes5tubecakes(8in/20cmeach)
B lb 13 oz/1.73 kg sugar
2 lb 8 o z /1 .1 3 k g s u g a r
2 lb 5 o z/1.05 kg cake flour
V2o z/1 4 g cream of tartar
VA o z/3 5 g baking soda
15'/2 o z/4 3 9 g cake flour
2'A ts p /7.50 g baking powder
lV 2 ts p /5 g s a lt
12 eggs
2 lb 8 o z/1.13 kg egg whites
1 lb 9 o z/7 09 g butter, melted and kept warm
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
3 lb 2 oz/1.42 kg warm water 2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract 15 o z/4 2 5 g cocoa powder, sifted
1. Coatsix8-in/20-cmpansw ithalightfilmoffatand
linethemwithparchmentcircles. 2 . Siftthesugar,flour,bakingsoda,andbakingpow der intothebowlofanelectricmixer. 3. Blendtheeggsinaseparatebow l.Mixthemintothe dryingredientsonmediumspeedwiththepaddle inthreeadditions.Mixuntilfullyincorporatedafter eachadditionandscrapedownthebowlasneeded. 4 .A ddthebutterandmixuntilevenlyblended.Add thewaterandvanillaandmix,scrapingdownthe bowlperiodically,untilasmoothbatterforms.Add thecocoapowderandmixuntilevenlyblended. 5. Scale2lb3oz/992gofbatterintoeachprepared pan. 6. Bakeat35O0F/i77°Cuntilaskewerinsertednearthe centerofacakecomesoutclean,about45minutes. 7. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewm inutes,then unmoldandtransfertowirerackstocoolcompletely.
1082
Angel Food Cake
B A K IN G A N D PAST RY
1. Sprinkletheinsidesoffive8-in/20-cmtubepans
lightlywithwater. 2.. Com bine1lb4oz/567gofthesugarwiththecream oftartar. Sifttheremaining1lb4oz/567gsugar withtheflourandsalt. 3. Inthebow lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites andvanillatosoftpeaksonmediumspeedwiththe wirewhip. 4 . Graduallyaddthesugar-creamoftartarm ixtureto theeggwhites,whippingonmediumspeeduntil mediumpeaksform. 5. Gentlyfoldthesiftedsugar-flourm ixtureintothe eggwhitesjustuntilincorporated. 6. Scale15oz/425gofbatterintoeachpreparedtube pan. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilacakespringsbackw hen lightlytouched,about35minutes. 8. Inverteachtubepanontoafunnelorlong-necked bottleonawireracktocool.Alternatively,foreach cake, invertasmallramekinontopofawirerack andpropthecakepanupsidedownandatanangle ontheramekin.Allowthecakestocoolcompletely upsidedown. 9 . Carefullyrunapaletteknifearoundthesidesofeach panandaroundthecentertubetoreleasethecake. Shakethepangentlytoinvertthecakeontothewire rack.
Makes4cakes(8in/20cmeach)
Chocolate XS Cake Makes6cakes(8in/20cmeach)
6 o z/1 70 g vegetable oil
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g water
1 tb sp /15 mL vanilla extract
2 lb 1 1'/2 o z/1 .2 3 kg sugar
18 eggs
1 lb 13 o z/8 2 2 g semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g sugar
2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g cake flour, sifted
2 lb 11 o z/1.22 kg butter, melted
1. Coatfour8-in/20-cmpansw ithalightfilmoffat
andlinethemwithparchmentcircles. 2 . Blendtheoilw iththevanilla. 3. Com binetheeggsandsugarinthebowlofanelec tricmixer. Setthebowloverapanofbarelysimmer ingwaterandwhiskconstantlyuntilthemixture reachesno°F/43°C. 4 . Putthebow lonthemixerandwhiponhighspeed withthewirewhipuntilthefoamreachesmaxi mumvolumeandisnolongerincreasinginvolume. Stabilizethefoambywhippingfor15minuteson mediumspeed. 5. Gentlyfoldintheflour.Tem perintheoilmixture. 6. Scale1lb/454gofbatterintoeachpreparedcake pan.Thepanshouldbetwo-thirdsfull. 7. Bakeat35O 0F/i77°Cuntilthetopsofthecakes springbackwhenlightlytouched,about30minutes. 8. Coolthecakesinthepansforafewminutes, thenunmoldandtransfertowirerackstocool completely. C hocolate Sponge Cake: Replace 4 o z /1 13 g o f the flou r w ith Dutch-process cocoa powder. S ift the cocoa
3 lb 10 o z/1 .64 kg eggs 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla extract
1. Brushtheinsidesofsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw ith
softenedbutterandlinewithparchmentcircles. 2 . Com binethewaterand1lb13oz/822gofthesugar inaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboil. Removefromtheheat, addbothchocolates,andstir untilthechocolatesaremelted.Stirinthebutter. Letthemixturecooltoroomtemperature. 3.W hiptheeggs,theremaining14V2oz/411gsugar, andthevanillainanelectricmixeronhighspeed withthewirewhip,untillightandfluffy,about4V2 minutes. 4 . Gentlyfoldthechocolatem ixtureintotheegg mixture. 5. Scale2lb5oz/1.05kgofbatterintoeachprepared pan. 6. Bakeinawaterbathat350°F/i77°Cuntilthetopsof thecakesfeelfirm,about1hour. 7. Coolcom pletelyonwireracks,thenwrapinplastic wrapandrefrigerateovernightinthepansbefore unmolding.
pastry dough and batter recipes
Vanilla Sponge Cake
together w ith the flour.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
1083
Cheesecake Makes6cheesecakes(8in/20cmeach) 1 lb 14 o z/851 g Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows) 7 lb 8 oz/3.40 kg cream cheese
Graham Cracker Crust
Makes1lb4oz/567g 14 o z/3 9 7 g graham cracker crumbs
2 A oz/71 g light brown sugar 3 V2 o z/9 9
g butter, melted
2 lb 4 o z /1 .0 2 k g s u g a r
'/2 o z/1 4 g salt 16 eggs 5 egg yolks
Processthecrumbs, sugar,andbutterinafoodpro cessorjustuntilcrumbly,about5minutes. Thecrust isreadytobepressedintopreparedpansandbaked.
15 o z/4 2 5 g heavy cream 3 tb s p /4 5 mL vanilla extract
1 . Coatsix8-in/20-cmcakepansw ithalightfilmoffat
andlinethemwithparchmentcircles. 2 . Press5oz/142gofthecrustm ixtureevenlyintothe bottomofeachpan. 3. Com binethecreamcheese, sugar,andsaltandmix inanelectricmixeronmediumspeedwiththe paddle,occasionallyscrapingdownthebowl,until themixtureiscompletelysmooth,about3minutes. 4 .W hisktogethertheeggsandeggyolks.Addtothe creamcheesemixtureinfouradditions,mixinguntil fullyincorporatedaftereachadditionandscraping downthebowlasneeded. 5.A ddthecreamandvanillaandmixuntiltheyare fullyincorporated. 6. Scale2lb8oz/1.13kgofbatterintoeachprepared pan.Gentlytapthepanstoreleaseanyairbubbles. 7. Bakeinahotw aterbathat325°F/i63°Cuntilthe centersofthecakesareset, about1hour15minutes. 8. Coolthecakescompletelyinthepansonwireracks. W rapthecakes,inthepans,inplasticwrapandre frigerateovernighttofullyset. 9 .Tounm old,applythegentleheatofalowopen flametothebottomandsidesofeachcakepan.Run aknifearoundthesideofthepan.Placeaplastic wrap-coveredcakecircleontopofthecake,invert, andtapthebottomofthepantoreleasethecake,if necessary.Removethepan,peeloffthepaperfrom thebottomofthecake,andturnitontoacakecircle orservingplate.
Pate a Choux Makes6lb/2.72kg 1 lb /4 5 4 g milk 1 lb /4 5 4 g water 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter l'/2 t s p /7 .5 0 g sugar V 2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt 1 lb /4 5 4 g bread flour 2 lb /9 0 7 g eggs
1. Bringthem ilk,water,butter,sugar,andsalttoaboil
overmediumheat, stirringconstantly. 2 .Rem ovefromtheheat,addtheflourallatonce,and stirvigorouslytocombine.Returnthepantomedium heatandcook,stirringconstantly,untilthemixture pullsawayfromthesidesofthepan,about3minutes. 3. Transferthem ixturetothebowlofanelectricmixer andbeatbrieflyonmediumspeedwiththepaddle. Addtheeggstwoatatime,beatinguntilsmoothaf tereachaddition. 4 . Thepateachouxisreadytobepipedandbaked(see page1064.) NOTE: Por a drier and deeper blond pate a choux, substitute an equal amount o f water fo r the milk.
G ougeres (G ruyere Cheese P uffs): A fte r adding all the eggs to the pate a choux, add lA tsp/0.50 g cayenne and 1 lb /4 54 g grated Gruyere to the dough. Continue mixing fo r 1 minute. Transfer the dough to a pastry bag with a plain tip and pipe into domes 3/t in / 2 cm in diameter. Bake fo r about 35 minutes in a 350°F/177°C oven. Serve warm or store in a irtig h t containers.
1084
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Makes1dozeneclairs
P ro fite ro le s Makes1dozenprofiteroles
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (recipe precedes)
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pate a Choux (page 1084)
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
2 o z/5 7 g sliced almonds
1 lb /4 5 4 g fondant (see page 1120)
1 o z/2 8 g sugar
4 o z /1 13 g dark chocolate, melted
12 o z/3 4 0 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
Light corn syrup, as needed
9 o z/2 5 5 g Chantilly Cream (page 1023)
1. Pipethepateachouxintocylinders,4in/10cmlong,
onparchment-linedsheetpans,usingano.8plain pipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash. 2 . Bakeat36o°F/i82°Cuntilthecracksform edinthe pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes. 3. Coolthepastriestoroomtem peratureonthepans. 4 . Pierceeachendoftheeclairsw ithaskewerorsimi larinstrument. 5. Filltheeclairsw iththepastrycreamfromeachend, usingano.1plainpipingtip. 6. W armthefondantoverahotwaterbath,addthe chocolate, andthintotheproperviscositywiththe cornsyrup. 7.Topthefilledeclairsw iththechocolatefondantei therbydippingthetopsorbyenrobingthemusing thebackofaspoon. C hocolate Eclairs: S ub stitute Chocolate Pastry Cream (page 1099) fo r the pastry cream.
Confectioners’ sugar, as needed
1. Pipethepateachouxintobulbs, 1V2in/4cmindi
ameter,ontoparchment-linedsheetpansusingano. 5plainpipingtip.Lightlybrushwitheggwash. 2 . Stickseveralalm ondslicesintothetopofeachbulb sothattheyprotrudefromthetop.Sprinkleeach bulblightlywithsugar. 3. Bakeat36o°F/i82°Cuntilthecracksform edinthe pastriesarenolongeryellow,about50minutes. 4 . Coolthepastriestoroomtem peratureonthepan. 5. Slicethetopoffeachofthebakedpastries. Pipethe pastrycreamintothebasesusingano.5plainpastry tip,beingcarefulnottooverfillthem. 6. PipeadoublerosetteofChantillycreamontopof thepastrycreamusingano.5startip. 7 PlacethetopsofthepastriesontheC hantillycream, andlightlydustwithconfectioners’sugar.
pastry dough and batter recipes
Eclairs
.
Ice C re a m -F ille d P ro fite ro le s : S ubstitute Vanilla IceCream (page 1157) fo r the pastry cream. Omit the almonds, sugar, Chantilly cream, and confectioners'sugar. Slice the top o ff each pro fite role. Scoop the ice cream using a no. 50 scoop, and place it in the bases. Replace the tops on the pastries and serve w ith Chocolate Sauce (page 1129), if desired.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
1085
1-2-3 Cookie Dough Makes6lb/2.72kg
Makes32biscotti
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, soft
10 o z/2 8 4 g bread flour
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
l t s p / 6 g baking soda
1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract
3 eggs
8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs
6 '/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar
3 lb /1 .36 kg cake flour, sifted
l ' / t ts p /4 g salt
1 . Creamthebutter, sugar,andvanillainanelectric
mixeronmediumspeedwiththepaddle,scraping downthebowlperiodically,untilsmoothandlight incolor.Addtheeggsgradually,afewatatime, scrapingdownthebowlandblendinguntilsmooth aftereachaddition.Addtheflourallatonceandmix onlowspeedjustuntilblended. 2 . Scalethedoughasdesired.W raptightlyandrefriger ateforatleast1hourbeforerolling.(Thedoughcan berefrigeratedorfrozen.)
1086
AlmonchAnise Biscotti
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
1 ts p /5 mL anise extract 7 o z /1 9 8 g whole almonds 2 tb s p /1 2 g anise seeds
1 . Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper. 2 . Sifttogethertheflourandbakingsoda. 3.W hiptheeggs,sugar,salt,andextractinanelectric
mixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilthick andlightincolor,about5minutes. Mixinthedry ingredientsonlowspeedjustuntilincorporated. 4 .A ddthealmondsandaniseseedsbyhandandblend untilevenlycombined. 5. Formthedoughintoalog4by16in/10by41cmand placeitonthepreparedsheetpan. 6. Bakeat300°F/i49°Cuntillightgoldenbrownand firm,about1hour. Lowertheoventemperatureto 275°F/i35°C.Removethepanfromtheovenand coolfor10minutes. 7. Usingaserratedknife, cutthelogcrossw iseinto slicesV2in/icmthick.Laythemflatonthesheet panandbake,turningthebiscottioncehalfway through,untilgoldenbrownandcrisp,20to25 minutestotal. 8. Transferthebiscottitowireracksandcool completely.
Pecan Diamonds Makes100pieces(1in/3cmeach) 2 lb /9 0 7 g 1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086) PECAN FILLING 1 lb /4 5 4 g butter, cubed 1 lb /4 5 4 g light brown sugar 4 o z/1 1 3 g sugar 12 o z/3 4 0 g honey 4 o z/1 1 3 g heavy cream 2 lb /9 0 7 g pecans, coarsely chopped
1 . Rolloutthedoughtoarectangle14by18in/36by46 cmandVsin/3mmthick.Layitgentlyinahalfsheet
pansothatitcompletelylinesthebottomandsides. Dockthedoughwithapastrydockerorthetinesofa fork. 2 . Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntillightgoldenbrow n,about 10minutes. 3.Tom akethefilling,cookthebutter,sugars,honey, andcreaminaheavy-bottomedsaucepanover medium-highheat,stirringconstantly,untilthe mixturereaches240°F/n6°C.Addthenutsandstir untilfullyincorporated.Immediatelypourintothe prebakedcrustandspreadintoanevenlayer. 4 . Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthefillingbubblesor foamsevenlyacrossthesurfaceandthecrustis goldenbrown,25to30minutes. Coolcompletelyin thepan. 5. Usingam etalspatula,releasethesheetfromthe sidesofthepanandinverttheslabontothebackof ahalfsheetpan.Transferittoacuttingboard,care fullyflippingitoversoitisrightsideup.Trimoffthe edges.Cutintoi-in/3-cmdiamonds.
Chocolate Chunk Cookies Makes12dozencookies 4 lb 5 oz/1.96 kg all-purpose flour r /2 o z/4 3 g salt 1 o z/2 8 g baking soda 2 lb 14 o z/1.30 kg butter, soft 1 lb 14 o z/8 51 g sugar 1 lb 6 o z/6 2 4 g light brown sugar 9 eggs 2 tbsp plus l '/2 ts p /3 8 mL vanilla extract 4 lb 5 o z/1 .9 6 kg semisweet chocolate chunks
1 . Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper. 2.. Sifttogethertheflour,salt,andbakingsoda. 3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm ixeron
mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand lightincolor, about5minutes. 4 . Com binetheeggsandvanilla.Addtothebuttersugarmixtureinthreeadditions, mixinguntilfully incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown thebowlasneeded.Mixinthesifteddryingredients andthechocolatechunksonlowspeedjustuntil incorporated. 5. ScalethedoughintoiVi-oz/43-gportionsandplace themonthepreparedpans.Alternatively,scalethe doughinto2-lb/907-gportions, shapeintologs16 in/41cmlong,wraptightlyinparchmentpaper,and refrigerateuntilfirmenoughtoslice. Sliceeachlog into16piecesandarrangeonthepreparedsheet pansinevenrows. 6. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilgoldenbrownaroundthe edges, 12to14minutes. 7. Coolcom pletelyonthepans.
C h e rry-C h o co la te Chunk Cookies: Add 2 lb/907 g chopped dried cherries along w ith the chocolate.
1088
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
Makes
1 2 ‘A
IO V 2
dozen cookies
o z/2 9 8 g cake flour
Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies M akes
12
dozen cookies
1 o z/2 8 g baking powder
Vi o z/1 4 g salt 4 o z /1 13 g brewed espresso 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped 4 lb/1.81 kg bittersweet chocolate, chopped IO V 2
o z/2 9 8 g butter, soft
2 lb 4 o z/1.02 kg all-purpose flour 1 o z/2 8 g baking soda
V2 o z/1 4 g ground cinnamon V2 o z/1 4 g salt 3 lb /1.36 kg butter, soft 1 lb 3 o z /5 3 9 g s u g a r 3 lb 8 o z/1.59 kg light brown sugar
22 eggs 4 lb/1.81 kg sugar
10 eggs 2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla extract
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g walnuts, chopped 3 lb 3 o z/1 .45 kg rolled oats 4 lb 8 o z/2 .0 4 kg semisweet chocolate chips 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g raisins
1. Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper. 2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpow der,andsalt. 3. Blendtheespressoandvanilla. 4 .M eltthechocolatestogetherwiththebutterovera
doubleboiler. Stirtoblend. 5. Beattheeggs,sugar,andcoffeem ixtureinanelec tricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipuntil lightandthick,6to8minutes. Blendinthechoco latemixtureonmediumspeed.Mixinthedryingre dientsonlowspeedjustuntilblended.Blendinthe walnutsandchocolatechipsjustuntilincorporated. 6. Scalethedoughinto2-oz/57-gportionsandarrange themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor tions, shapeintologs16in/41cmlong,wraptightly inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilthecookiesarecrackedon topbutstillappearslightlymoist, about12minutes. 8. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto wireracksandcoolcompletely.
1 . Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaper. 2 . Sifttogethertheflour,bakingsoda,cinnam on,and
salt. 3. Creamthebutterandsugarsinanelectricm ixeron mediumspeedwiththepaddle,scrapingdownthe bowlperiodically,untilthemixtureissmoothand lightincolor, about10minutes. Blendtheeggsand vanillaandaddtothebutter-sugarmixtureinthree additions,mixingaftereachadditionuntilfullyin corporatedandscrapingdownthebowlasneeded. Mixinthesifteddryingredients,oats,andraisinson lowspeedjustuntilincorporated. 4 . Scalethedoughinto2-ozl^j-gportionsandarrange themonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. Alternatively,scalethedoughinto2-lb/907-gpor tions, shapeintologsi6-in/4i-cmlong,wraptightly inparchmentpaper,andrefrigerateuntilfirm enoughtoslice. Sliceeachloginto16piecesandar rangethemonthepreparedsheetpansinevenrows. 5. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilthecookiesarelightgold enbrown,about12minutes. 6. Coolthecookiesslightlyonthepans.Transferto wireracksandcoolcompletely.
c h a p te r 33 » PA ST RY D O U G H S A N D BA TTERS
pastry dough and batter recipes
Mudslide Cookies
1089
NutTuile Cookies
Makes25cookies
Makes1sheetpanor60brownies(2by3in/5by8cmeach)
2 o z/5 7 g blanched almonds
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g unsweetened chocolate, chopped
B o z/8 5 g blanched hazelnuts
2 lb 4 oz/1.02 kg butter
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
1 lb 1 4 o z /8 5 1 g eggs
2'/2 o z/71 g all-purpose flour
4 lb 8 o z /2 .0 4 k g s u g a r
Pinch salt
2 tb s p /3 0 mL vanilla
4 egg whites
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g cake flour, sifted
1. Linesheetpansw ithparchmentpaperorsilicone
bakingmats. Havestencilsandanoffsetspatula nearby,aswellasshapingimplementssuchascups, dowels,orrollingpins,dependingonthedesired shapes. 2 . Com binethealmonds,hazelnuts, andsugarina foodprocessorandpulsetogrindtoafinepowder. Addtheflourandsaltandpulseseveraltimesto combine.Transfertoalargebowl. 3. W hiptheeggwhitesinanelectricmixeronhigh speedwiththewirewhipuntilmediumpeaksform. Usingarubberspatula,gentlyfoldtheeggwhites intothenutmixtureinthreeadditions. 4 . Usingtheoffsetspatulaanddesiredtem plate, spread thebatteronthepreparedsheetpans. 5. Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntilanevenlightbrow n,about 10minutes. 6. Removethetuilesfromtheovenandimmediately shapethem.Iftheybegintogettoofirm,putthem backintheovenforafewsecondstosoften,then formimmediately.
1090
Fudge Brownies
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g chopped pecans or walnuts
1. Lineasheetpanw ithparchmentpaper. 2 .M eltthechocolateandbuttertogetheroverapan
ofsimmeringwater. Donotletthemixtureexceed ho°F/43°C.Removefromtheheatandcooltoroom temperature. 3. Com binetheeggs,sugar,andvanillaandwhipinan electricmixeronhighspeedwiththewirewhipun tilthickandlightincolor. 4 .A ddthechocolateandbuttertotheeggmixtureus ingaliaison(seepage249). 5.Blendone-thirdoftheeggm ixtureintothechoco latemixturetolightenit,thenfoldintheremaining eggmixture. Gentlyfoldintheflour. 6. Foldin1lb/454gofthenuts. Pourontotheprepared sheetpanandsprinkletheremainingnutsontop. 7. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cfor30m inutesoruntilfirmto thetouch. 8. Coolthebrowniesinthepanforafewminutes,then unmoldontoawirerack.Peeloffthepaperandcool completelybeforecutting.
custards, creams and mousses When baked, eggs, milk, and sugar result in a smooth and creamy baked custard. When stirred together over gentle heat, these same ingredient become custard sauce. Starches or gelatin can be included to pro d u cd i textures th a t range from thick but spoonable to a sliceable cream. ^ Folding meringue or whipped cream into the custard or cream produces a cold mousse, Bavarian, or diplomat cream. For a souffle, meringue is folded into a base and baked.
A
S IM P LE
BAKED
CUSTARD CALLS
FOR
B L E N D IN G
EGGS, A LIQ.UID
SUCH
AS
M IL K
OR CR EA M , AND
S U G A R A N D B A K IN G U N T I L SET. M A S C A R P O N E , C R E A M C H E E S E , OR A N O T H E R S O F T F R E S H C H E E S E M A Y BE S U B S T I T U T E D F O R P A R T O F T H E C R E A M T O Y I E L D A R I C H E R A N D F I R M E R R E S U L T , S U C H A S F O R A C H E E S E C A K E . T h e P R O P O R T I O N O F E G G S A L S O M A Y BE V A R I E D , A S M A Y T H E C H O I C E O F W H O L E E G G S , Y O L K S O N L Y , OR A C O M B I N A T I O N O F T H E T W O . U S I N G A L L W H O L E E G G S G I V E S M O R E S T R U C T U R E TO A C U S T A R D T H A T I S TO BE S E R V E D U N M O L D E D .
baked custards There are tw o basic m ethods fo r com bining th e in g re d ie n ts to make a baked custard: warm and cold. For the cold m ethod o f m ixing a custa rd base, th e in g re d ie n ts are sim p ly s tirre d to g e th e r, then poured in to m olds and baked. This m ethod is e ffe c tiv e f o r sm all batches. To m ix a custa rd base using th e w arm m ethod, heat th e m ilk o r cream and some o f the sugar, s tirrin g w ith a wooden spoon, u n til th e sugar is c o m p le te ly dissolved. Add the f la vorings a t th is p o in t and allow the m to steep o f f th e heat and covered, if necessary, long enough fo r the m to im p a rt a rich, fu ll flavo r. Blend th e eggs and th e rem aining sugar to make a liaison and b ring th e m ilk o r cream to a boil. W hisking c o n sta n tly, slo w ly add about o n e -th ird o f th e h o t m ilk a fe w la d le fu ls a t a tim e to th e liaison, to te m p e r it. Once th e lia i son is tem pe red , you can add the re s t o f th e h o t m ilk m ore ra p id ly w ith o u t scram bling the egg m ixture . Ladle th e custa rd in to m olds (coa t the m w ith a lig h t film o f so fte n e d b u tte r if you in ten d to unm old th e custa rd ) and bake the m in a hot w a te r bath. The w a te r bath keeps the heat co n sta n t and gentle, re s u ltin g in a sm ooth te x tu re in the baked custard. To check the custa rd fo r doneness, shake th e m old gently: when th e rip ple s on th e surface move back and fo rth , ra th e r than in con cen tric rings, th e custa rd is p ro p e rly baked. C a refully rem ove th e m olds fro m th e w a te r bath and w ipe th e m olds dry. Place them on a cool sheet pan, allow them to cool, and then re frig e ra te them . For crem e caram el, an ove rnight re s tin g pe rio d (o p tim a lly 2 4 hours) is essential, n o t only to c o m p le te ly se t the custa rd so it can be unm olded, b u t also to allow th e caram el to liq u e fy in to a sauce.
HOT WATER BATH
Ahotwaterbath,orbain-marie,ensures gentleheatataconstanttemperature, al lowingforevenbakingorcooking.Using ahotwaterbathforbakingcustardsalso preventsboththeformationofacrustand crackingofthecustard’ssurface. Selectapanwithsidesatleastashigh asthesidesofthemolds.Setthemoldsin thepanastheyarefilled,leavingabout1 in/3cmaroundeachmoldsoitwillbesur roundedbyhotwater. Setthepansecurely ontheovendeckorrack.Addenoughvery 1092
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
hotorboilingwatertothepantocome toabouttwo-thirdsoftheheightofthe molds.Becarefulnottosplashorpourany waterintothecustards. Aftercustardsareproperlybakedand removedfromtheoven,theyshouldbe removedfromthehotwaterbath.This willstopthecookingprocessandallowthe custardstocool. Custardswillcontinueto cookifleftinthehotwaterbathafterthey areremovedfromtheoven,whichmay causethemtobecomeoverdone.
prepared
on
th e
s to v eto p
, such
as
v a n il l a
s a u c e
, must
be
s t ir r e d
c o n sta n tly
D U R I N G C O O K I N G U N T I L T H E S T A G E O F N A P P E ( c o a t i n g T H E B A C K O F A s p o o n ). C r e a m s A N D P U D D I N G S T H A T A R E T H I C K E N E D W I T H S T A R C H A N D C O O K E D O N T H E S T O V E T O P M U S T BE S T I R R E D C O N S T A N T L Y U N T I L T H E Y C O M E T O A F U L L B O I L , B O T H S O T H E S T A R C H IS H E A T E D S U F F I C I E N T L Y TO T H I C K E N T H E M IX T U R E
AND
TO
REMOVE
ANY
U N D E S IR A B LE
FLAVOR
AND
M O UTHFEEL THAT
UNCOOKED
custards
C ustards
STARCH
C O N T R IB U TE S .
stirred custards, creams, and puddings Some recipes fo r s tirre d custards, creams, and puddings may include w hole m ilk, w hile oth e rs call f o r heavy cream, lig h t cream, or a com b in ation o f cream and m ilk. Some recipes use only egg yolks; oth ers use w hole eggs or a blend o f w hole eggs and egg yolks. It is esp ecially im p o rta n t to have all th e necessary eq uipm en t assem bled b e fo re beginning, including a heavy-
m eth o d at-a-glan ce
b o tto m e d p o t o r a bain-m arie, a fin e -m e sh sieve or conical sieve, and con tain ers to hold the fin is h e d ite m during coo l ing and sto rin g . To cool th e custards, creams, o r puddings ra p id ly and safe ly, have an ice w a te r bath ready.
1. C a re fu lly scale or m easure all ing re d ie nts. 2.
H eat th e m ilk or m ilk /c re a m co m bination w ith h a lf o f the sugar to ju s t below a boil.
3.
W hisk to g e th e r the eggs w ith the rem ainder o f the sugar.
4.
Temper the eggs w ith the hot m ilk, s tirrin g co n s ta n tly and re tu rn th e te m p e re d eggs to th e pan.
5.
S tirrin g co n sta n tly, cook the sauce over low heat ju s t u n til it has reached th e p o in t o f nappe (185°F).
c h a p te r 34 » CU S TAR D S, C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1093
1. combine the milk
w ith h a lf o f the
sugar (and a van illa bean, i f using) and b ring it to a simmer. C om bine th e egg y olks or eggs w ith the rem aining sugar in a s ta in le s s -s te e l bowl. H e atin g th e m ilk o r cream w ith th e sugar dissolves the sugar fo r a sm oother, s ilk ie r fin is h e d te x tu re . If a vanilla bean is used to fla v o r the sauce, add th e seeds and the e m p ty pod to th e m ilk (or cream ) and sugar as it heats. (Vanilla e x tra c t may be used in ste ad o f van illa beans. Add th e e x tra c t ju s t b e fo re the sauce is strained.) H eat the m ilk ju s t to the b o ilin g po in t. Keep an eye on it as it heats since it can ea sily b o il over as it nears the b o ilin g point. B ea ting th e eggs and sugar to g e th e r pre ven ts the eggs fro m coo kin g when th e y are com bined w ith the hot m ilk. Blend th e in g re d ie n ts w ell w ith a w h isk f o r long enough to d issolve th e sugar in th e eggs.
method in detail 2. temper the hot milk
in to the egg
m ix tu re to produce a sm oo th sauce. Ladle the h o t m ilk in to th e egg m ix tu re a litt le a t a tim e, s tirrin g c o n sta n tly, u n til ab o u t o n e -th ird o f th e m ilk or cream m ix tu re has been blended in to th e eggs. Add th e te m p e re d egg m ix tu re to th e re s t o f th e h o t m ilk. Continue to cook the sauce over low he at u n til it begins to thicken, s tirrin g c o n s ta n tly to p re ve n t it fro m overcooking. Do not le t the sauce come to a boil, because th e egg yolks w ill coagulate w ell below th e b o ilin g po in t. The te m p e ra tu re o f th e sauce should n o t go above 180°F /82°C , o r it w ill begin to curdle. The sauce is cooked when it has thicke ne d enough to coa t the back o f a wooden spoon.
1094
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
vanilla sauce
3. the finished vanilla sauce should coa t th e back o f a w ooden spoon and hold a line drawn th ro u g h it. W hen it reaches th is stage, s tra in it im m e d i a te ly th ro u g h a fin e -m e sh sieve in to a container. Cool the sauce in an ice w a te r ba th i f it is to be held f o r la te r storag e or served cold, s tirrin g fre q u e n tly as it cools, and re frig e ra te it im m e d ia te ly. Place a piece o f p la s tic wrap on th e surface to p re ve n t a skin fro m fo rm in g . A good van illa sauce is th ic k and g lossy and coa ts th e back o f a wooden spoon. It shows no signs o f curdling. This sauce should have a sm ooth, luxurio us m o u th fe e l, w ith a w e ll-b alance d flavo r.
MAKING ICE CREAM FROM V A N ILLA SAUCE
Thistypeofbaseshouldbeallowedtomature intherefrigeratoratapproximately40°/4°Cfor severalhoursbeforefreezing.Thiswillresultina smoothericecream. Tochurntheicecream,runthechilledbasedin anicecreamfreezeronlytosoft-serveconsistency. Extractitfromthemachine,packintocontainers, andplaceinafreezerforseveralhourstoallowitto firmtoaservabletemperatureandconsistency. Alloftheingredientsaddflavortotheice cream,buteachonealsoplaysapartindetermin ingconsistencyandmouthfeel.Theeggsmakeit richandsmooth.Forbestresults,useamixtureof milkandcreamtoavoidhavingtoomuchbutterfat inthemix.Themilkandcreamallowforincor porationofairduringfreezing,givingthefinal productasmoothermouthfeelandlighterbody. However,toomuchincorporatedairwilldiminish theflavor,maketheicecreamtoosoft,andmake itmeltquickly.Sugarbothaddssweetnessand lowersthefreezingpointofthebase,keepingthe icecreamfromfreezingtoohard.
Thereareanumberofdifferentmethodsfor addingflavoringstoicecreams.Youmaysimply infusethesaucewithflavorwhileyouaremaking it. Pureescanbeblendedintothecustardafterit hascooled,orfoldedintostillsoft,just-churned icecreamforaswirledeffect.Meltedchocolate canbeaddedtothestillwarm,just-cookedice creambase,whilenutpastessuchaspeanutbut terandpralinepastecanbeaddedtothemilkand creamandcookedintothebasemixture. Somefruitjuicesorfrozenconcentratessuch aslemon,orange,orpassionfruithaveveryin tenseflavor.Addupto8floz/240mLofthese juicesorfrozenconcentratestothesameamount ofthebaseasyouwouldpuree,usingjustenough togivetheproperflavor.Itisnotnecessarytore ducethevolumeofliquidinthebase;addingthis amountofadditionalliquidtoai1A-qt/i.44-Lbatch willnotnoticeablyaffecttheicecream’stextureor volume.
ch a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1095
T h e n a m e f o r t h is d e l ic a t e d e s s e r t c o m e s f r o m t h e F r e n c h ; t h e w o r d t r a n s l a t e s l it e r a l l y as
"f r o t h y , f o a m y , or
l ig h t
." T o m a k e
a
m o u s s e
, an
a e r a t in g
in g r e d ie n t
suc h
as
w h ip p e d
C R E A M a n d / o r M E R I N G U E IS F O L D E D IN T O A BASE, S U C H A S A F R U I T P U R E E , V A N I L L A S A U C E , C R E A M , P U D D I N G , C U R D , S A B A Y O N , O R PA TE A B O M B E ( C O O K E D W H I P P E D EG G Y O L K S ) . T H E B A S E S H O U L D BE L I G H T A N D S M O O T H S O T H E A E R A T I N G I N G R E D I E N T C A N BE I N C O R P O R A T E D E A S I L Y .
mousse To make an egg-safe mousse, use pasteurized egg w h ites or a Swiss o r Italian meringue. S ta bilizers such as g e la tin may be used in varying am ounts, depending on the desired result. If a mousse is stab ilize d w ith gelatin, it w ill begin to se t im m ediately, so prepare all m olds and serving containers be fore beginning preparation. W hatever th e fla v o rin g in g re d ie n t used, it should be at room te m p e ra tu re and liquid enough to fo ld to g e th e r w ith whipped cream a n d /o r egg w h ite s w ith o u t d e fla tin g those foam s. To prepare chocolate, chop it in to sm all pieces and m e lt it over sim m ering w a te r or in the m icrowave. Let it cool to room te m pe rature , at which p o in t it should s till be pourable. Eggs, bo th yolks and w hites, are called fo r in some mousse recipes. C onsult the recipe and prepare the eggs as d ire cte d . S eparate yolks and w h ite s care fu lly, keeping w h ite s fre e o f all traces o f yolk. W hites generally w hip to a g re a te r volum e i f th e y are a t room te m p e ra ture. Use a very clean bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk to b e a t egg w hites. Cream should be ke p t very cold and w hipped ju s t to s o ft peaks. Keep w hipped cream v e ry cold i f it is prepared in ad
m eth o d at-a-glan ce 1. C a re fu lly scale or measure all ing re d ie nts. 2. H eat th e egg yolks w ith some o f the sugar, w hisking u n til th e m ixtu re is th ic k and reaches the proper te m p e ra tu re .
vance. For th e b e st volum e in the w hipped cream, ch ill the bow l and w ire w hip o r w h isk b e fo re w h ipp in g th e cream. Flave a sim m e ring w a te r bath ready to cook egg yolks and sugar to g e th e r. Use a rub be r spatula to fo ld the mousse to g e th e r. Have m olds arranged to f ill w ith mousse. It is im p o rta n t to fla v o r the base well. The base o f the mousse provides all o f the flavo r. Once the ae ra to rs are added, th e fla v o r o f th e base w ill becom e d ilu te d , so make sure th e base is ve ry fla v o rfu l to ensure the am ount o f f la vo r you desire is carried to th e fin is h e d mousse. To m aintain its s tru c tu re du rin g and a fte r whipping, keep th e cream cold. W hip the cream only to s o ft peaks.
3- W hip or w hisk the egg w hite s
A fte r w hipping, th e cream w ill be fo ld e d in to the rem ain
w ith the rem ainder o f the
ing in g re d ie n ts f o r the mousse. If it is w hipped beyond s o ft
sugar.
peaks, th is fo ld in g w ill overw hip the cream.
4 - G ently ligh ten th e yolk
Use a rubber spatula, or sim ilar to o l w ith a broad surface
m ixtu re w ith some o f the egg
fo r folding. This w ill help retain the volume in the aerators.
w hites.
Lightening the base w ith a p o rtion o f the ae rator before fo ld ing quickly as w ell as ge ntly w ill also help to retain volume.
5 - C a re fu lly fo ld the rem aining egg w h ite s in to th e yolk m ixture.
To ensure the lig h te st mousse, it is also im perative th a t the containers or pastries th a t w ill hold the mousse are ready be fore you begin the preparation o f the mousse. As soon as all the ingredients are fu lly combined, pipe, spread, or pour the mousse in to the prepared containers.
1096
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
mousse
1. prepare the flavor ingredients f o r th e mousse and cool them , if necessary. Some mousse flavo rin gs are made fro m pureed fru it, sweetened as neces sary and strained to remove any fib e rs or seeds. Chocolate, one o f the m ost popular mousse fla vo rs, is prepared by chopping the chocolate. B u tte r is added to the chocolate and they are m elted to g e th e r over sim m ering water. Adding b u tte r to the chocolate makes it easier to m elt. Take care to avoid dropping any w a te r in to th e chocolate as it m elts. The fla v o r base should be s o ft enough to s tir easily w ith a wooden spoon, and ve ry sm ooth. Blend th e in g re die n ts to g e th e r using a wooden spoon. L e t the m cool to room te m p e ra tu re b e fo re use. H eat the egg y olks and sugar to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C f o r 15 seconds, w h iskin g co n sta n tly. C om bine the egg yolks and sugar in a saucepan over a h o t w a te r bath. W hip the m t o g e th e r u n til th ic k and lig h t. The m ix tu re w ill fa ll in ribbons fro m th e w hip when th e base has reached th e c o rre c t consistency. A t th is tim e , fla v o rin g in g re d ie n ts should be fo ld e d in. It is im p o rta n t th a t th e fla v o rin g s be liquid enough to blend easily. Fold in th e fla v o rin g s u n til th e re are no stre a k s in th e m ixture . W hip the egg w h ites w ith the rem aining sugar to s t if f peaks in a com p le te ly clean and dry bowl. Beat the w hites a t medium speed a t f ir s t to begin to separate the pro te in strands. Add the sugar in sm all increm ents w ith the m ixer on high speed u n til the peaks o f the beaten w h ites remain s t if f and do n o t droop when the b e ater is pulled fro m the bowl. The w h ites should s till appear shiny, not dry. Fold them into the yolk m ixtu re g e n tly to keep the maximum volume. Some chefs like to add the w h ites to the yolks in tw o or m ore addi tio n s so th a t the f ir s t a d dition lightens the base. That way, less volum e is lo s t fro m subsequent additions. Use a liftin g and fo ld in g m o tio n to avoid d e fla tin g th e mousse. The fin is h e d m ousse should be w e ll blended b u t s till re ta in as much volum e as possible. A t th is point, th e m ousse is ready f o r service o r may be re frig e ra te d , covered, f o r a s h o rt pe rio d o f tim e b e fo re service. The m ousse may be scooped o r piped in to m olds o r con tain ers f o r p re se n ta tio n .
2. evaluate the finished mousse. A w ell-m a de m ousse should have an intense, id e n tifia b le fla vo r, w ith added sm oo th ne ss and richness fro m the cream. The co lo r should be even th ro u g h o u t each p o rtio n . M ousses have a lig h t, fo a m y te x tu re due to th e a d d itio n o f b o th beaten egg w h ite s and w h ipp ed cream. W hen th e w h ite s and cream are beaten p ro p e rly, th e te x tu re is very sm oo th and fine .
c h a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1097
Vanilla Sauce
Pastry Cream
M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
M akes 32 fl 02/960 mL
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
2 lb /9 0 7 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
B o z/8 5 g cornstarch
8 o z /2 2 7 g s u g a r
6 eggs
14 egg yolks
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
1. H eatthemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodandseeds,
andhalfofthesugaruntilthemixturejustreaches theboilingpoint. 2 . Com binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand temperthemixtureintothehotmilk. 3. Stirringconstantly,heatslow lytoi8o°F/82°C. 4 . Rem ovethecustardsauceimmediatelyfromthe stoveandstrainitthroughafine-meshsievedirectly intoacontainersetinanicewaterbath. 5. Coolto40°F/4°Candstoreintherefrigerator. NOTES: This sauce can be cooked over a water bath fo r more control of the heat source. S ubstitute 1 tb sp /1 5 mL vanilla extract fo r the vanilla bean. Add it ju s t before straining the sauce. All milk or light cream can be used in place o f heavy cream.
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
3 o z/8 5 g butter
1. Com binethemilkwithhalfof thesugarinasauce
panandbringittoaboil. 2 .Com binetheremainingsugarwiththecornstarch, addtheeggs,andmixuntilsmooth. 3. Tem pertheeggmixtureintothehotmilkandbring ittoafullboil, stirringconstantly. 4 . Rem oveitfromtheheatandstirinthevanillaand butter.Transferittoacleancontainer,placeapiece ofplasticwrapdirectlyonthepastrycream,andlet itcooloveranicewaterbath. 5. Thepastrycreamisreadytousenow ,oritmaybe thoroughlycooledandstoredintherefrigeratorfor lateruse. Chocolate P astry Cream: Add 8 o z/2 2 7 g Hard Ganache (page 1128) to the finished but s till s lightly warm pastry cream.
M akes 2 lb 2 oz/g64 g
Creme Brulee Makes10servings 2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar
1 lb 5 o z /5 9 5 g m ilk Pinch salt
6V20z/184g sugar 1 vanilla bean 4 o z/1 1 3 g all-purpose flour
SV2 o z/1 5 6 g egg yolks, beaten 2 eggs 3 egg yolks
1 . Com bine6floz/i8omLofthemilkwithhalfofthe
sugarinasaucepanandbringtoaboil, stirringgen tlywithawoodenspoon. 2.. M eanwhile,combinetheflourwiththeremaining sugar. Stirringwithawirewhisk,addtheremaining 15floz/450mLofmilk.Addtheeggsandeggyolks, stirringwiththewhiskuntilthemixtureiscom pletelysmooth. 3.Tem pertheeggmixturebyaddingaboutone-third ofthehotmilk,stirringconstantlywiththewhisk. Addtheeggmixturetotheremaininghotmilkin thesaucepan.Continuecooking,vigorouslystirring withthewhisk,untilthepastrycreamcomestoa boilandthewhiskleavesatrailinit. 4 . Pourthepastrycreamontoalargeshallowcontainer orbowl.Coveritwithplasticwrapplaceddirectly againstthesurfaceofthecream,andcoolitoveran icewaterbath. 5. Refrigeratethepastrycream ,covered.
FINISHING 5 o z /1 4 2 g sugar 4V2 o z /1 2 8 g confectioners' sugar
1. Com binethecream,4oz/113gofthesugar,and
thesaltandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom theheat. Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseeds fromthepod,andaddboththepodandseedstothe cream.Coverandsteepfor15minutes. 2 . Returnthepottotheheatandbringthecreamtoa boil. 3. Com binetheeggyolksandtherestofthesugarand temperthemixtureintothehotcream.Strainthe custardthroughafine-meshsieveandladleitinto ten6-floz/i8o-mLcremebruleeramekins,filling themthree-quartersfull. 4 . Bakeinaw aterbathat325°F/i63°Cuntiljustset, 20 to25minutes. 5. Rem ovethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled. 6. Tofinishthecremebrulee,evenlycoateachcus tard’ssurfacewithathinlayer(1/16in/1.50mm)of sugar.Useapropanetorchtomeltandcaramelize thesugar.Lightlydustthesurfacewithconfection ers’sugarandserve.
c h a p te r 34 » C U S TA R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
custard, cream, and mousse recipes
Pastry Cream fo r Souffles
1099
Creme Caramel M akes 10 servings CARAMEL 2 o z/5 7 g water 5 3/ t o z/1 6 3 g sugar CUSTARD 1 lb 7 o z/6 52 g milk 6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 2 ts p /1 0 mL vanilla extract 4 eggs, lightly beaten 3 egg yolks
1. Topreparethecaram el, combinethewaterand
asmallamountofthesugarinapansetoverme diumheat.Allowthesugartomelt. 2 .A ddtheremainingsugarinsmallincrements, allowingittomeltbeforeeachnewaddition. Continuethisprocessuntilallthesugarhasbeen added.Cookthecarameltothedesiredcolor. 3. Dividethecaram elequallyamongten4-floz/120mLramekins, swirlingthecarameltocoatthebot toms. Placetheramekinsinadeepbakingdishand reserve.
UOO
BAKING AND PASTRY
4 . Tom akethecustard,combinethemilkandhalfof
thesugarandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringgentlywithawoodenspoon.Removefrom theheatandaddthevanilla.Returntotheheatand bringtoaboil. 5. Blendtheeggsandeggyolks,com binewiththerestof thesugar,andtemperthemixtureintothehotmilk. 6. Strainthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveand ladleitintothecaramel-coatedramekins,filling themthree-quartersfull. 7. Baketheram ekinsinawaterbathat325°F/i63°C untilfullyset, about1hour. 8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe theramekinsdry.Allowthecustardstocool completely. 9. W rapeachcustardindividuallyandrefrigeratethem foratleast24hoursbeforeunmoldingandserving. 10 .Tounm oldthecustards,runasmallsharpknife betweenthecustardandtheramekin,invertontoa servingplate,andtapitlightlytorelease.
Diplomat Cream
M akes 48 fl oz/1.44 L
M akes 32 fl o z/g 6 o mL
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream, well chilled
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
Vi o z/7 g powdered gelatin
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 o z/5 7 g water
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
1 lb /4 5 4 g Pastry Cream (page 1099), warm
1 o z/2 8 g glucose syrup V 4 tsp /1 g salt 15 egg yolks
1.Com binethemilk,cream,vanillabeanpodand
seeds,halfofthesugar,thesyrup,andsaltina saucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. 2 .Rem ovethesaucepanfromtheheat, cover,and steepfor5minutes. 3.M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain ingsugar. 4 .Rem ovethevanillabeanpodandreturnthemilk mixturetoasimmer. 5.Tem perone-thirdofthehotmixtureintotheegg yolks,whiskingconstantly. 6. Addthetemperedeggmixturetotheremaining hotliquidinthesaucepan,stirringconstantlyover mediumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughto coatthebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 7.Straintheicecreambaseintoam etalcontainerin anicewaterbath.Stiroccasionally,untilitreaches below40°F/4°C,about1hour. 8. Coverandrefrigerateforaminimumof12hours. 9 .Processthebaseinanicecreamm achineaccord ingtothemanufacturer’sdirections. 10.Packtheicecreaminstoragecontainersorm olds asdesired,andfreezeforseveralhoursorover nightbeforeserving.
1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused forthecream. 2 .W hipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Coverandrefrigerate. 3. Bloomthegelatininthew ater.Meltthegelatin. 4 . Tem perthemeltedgelatinintothepastrycream. Strainthroughafine-meshsieve.Coolthepastry creamoveranicewaterbathto75°F/24°C. 5. Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdofthe whippedcreamintothepastrycreammixture.Fold intheremainingwhippedcream,thoroughlyincor poratingit. 6. Immediatelypipethediplomatcreamintothepre paredpastriesorcontainers. Coverandrefrigerate untilcompletelyset.
custard, cream, and mousse recipes
Vanilla Ice Cream
C hocolate Ice Cream: Before straining the ice cream base, s tir 6 oz/170 g m elted b itte rsw ee t chocolate into the mixture. C o ffe e Ice Cream: S ub stitute 2 oz/5 7g coarsely ground coffee fo r the vanilla bean. Raspberry Ice Cream: Omit the milk. A fte r re frig era ting the ice cream base, s tir in 16 f l o z/4 8 0 mL raspberry puree.
chapter 34 » C U S T A R D S , C R E A M S , A N D M O U S S E S
1103
Chocolate Mousse
Raspberry Mousse
M akes 10 servings
M akes 88 fl oz/2.64 L
10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 o z/2 8 g powdered gelatin
V /i o z/4 3 g butter
10 o z/2 8 4 g water
5 eggs, separated
14 o z/3 9 7 g heavy cream
2 tb s p /3 0 mL water
1 lb 10 o z/7 3 7 g raspberry puree
2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r
5 egg whites
8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream, whipped
9 o z/2 5 5 g sugar
Rum, as needed (optional)
1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers, ormoldstobeused forthemousse. 2 . Com binethechocolateandbutterandmeltovera hotwaterbath. 3.Com binetheeggyolkswithhalfofthewaterand halfofthesugarandwhiskoverahotwaterbath untilitholdsat145°F/63°Cfor15seconds. Remove fromtheheatandwhiskuntilcool. 4 . Com binetheeggwhiteswiththeremainingsugar inamixerbowlandwhiskoverahotwaterbathto 145°F/63°C.Removefromtheheatandwhiptofull volume.Continuewhippinguntilcool. 5. Usingalargerubberspatula,foldthechocolatem ix tureintotheeggyolks. 6. Foldtheeggwhitemixtureintotheeggyolk-choco latemixture. 7. Foldinthew hippedcreamandaddtherum,ifusing. 8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintomolds.
1104
BAKING AND PASTRY
1. Beforebeginningpreparation,assem bleandprepare
thedesiredpastries,containers,ormoldstobeused forthemousse. 2 . Bloomthegelatininthew ater. 3. W hipthecreamtomediumpeaks.Coverand refrigerate. 4 .W armhalfofthefruitpureeinasaucepan.Remove itfromtheheat. 5. M eltthegelatin.Addthemeltedgelatintothewarm pureeandstirtoincorporate. Blendintheremain ingpuree. Cooltheraspberrymixtureto70°F/2i°C. 6. Meanwhile,combinetheeggwhitesandsugarina mixerbowloverapotofsimmeringwaterandheat, stirringconstantlywithawhisk,untilthemixture reaches145°F/63°C.Transferthebowltothemixer andwhipathighspeedwiththewirewhipuntilstiff peaksform.Continuebeatinguntilthemeringue hascompletelycooled. 7. Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdofthe meringueintotheraspberrymixturetolightenit. Foldintheremainingmeringue,thoroughlyincor poratingit. Foldinthewhippedcream. 8. Immediatelypipeorladlethemousseintothepas tries, containers,ormolds.
Chocolate Souffle M akes 10 servings 5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar, plus as needed for ramekin preparation
Bread and B utter Pudding M akes 10 servings
3 o z/8 5 g butter
3 o z/8 5 g raisins
10 o z/2 8 4 g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
4 f I o z/1 2 0 m L ru m
2 lb 2 o z/9 6 4 g Pastry Cream for Souffles (page 1099), cooled
9 o z/2 5 5 g Brioche Loaf (page 1040) or Challah (page 1040)
3 egg yolks
3 o z/8 5 g butter, melted
12 egg whites
2 lb /9 0 7 g milk
1. Coattheinsideoften4-floz/120-m Lovenproof
ramekinswithafilmofsoftbutter,makingsureto coattherimsaswellastheinsides,anddustwith sugar. 2 .Topreparethesoufflebase,m eltthebutterand chocolatetogetherinabowloverapanofbarely simmeringwater,stirringgentlytoblend.Blendthe chocolatemixtureintothepastrycream.Blendin theeggyolks. 3. Inthebow lofanelectricmixer,whiptheeggwhites tosoftpeaksonmediumspeedusingthewirewhip. Graduallysprinkleinthesugarwhilecontinuingto whip,thenwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks. 4 . Gentlyblendapproxim atelyone-thirdoftheme ringueintothechocolatebase.Foldintheremaining meringue,thoroughlyincorporatingit. 5. Portionthesoufflem ixtureintotheprepared ramekins. 6. Bakeat350°F/i77°Cuntilfullyrisen,about20min utes.Serveimmediately.
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 6 eggs, beaten 4 egg yolks, beaten
V2 ts p /2 .5 0 mL vanilla extract V2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon '/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
1. Placetheraisinsinabow landaddtherum.Set
asidetoplumpfor20minutes,thendrain. 2 . CutthebreadintoVi-in/i-cmcubes. Placeona sheetpananddrizzlewiththebutter.Toastina 350°F/i77°Coven,stirringonceortwice,untilgold enbrown. 3. Com binethemilkand3oz/85g°fthesugarina saucepanandbringtoaboil. 4.M eanwhile,blendtheeggs,eggyolks,vanilla,and theremaining3oz/85gsugartomaketheliaison. Temperbygraduallyaddingaboutone-thirdofthe hotmilk,whiskingconstantly.Addtheremaining hotmilkandstrainthecustardintoalargebowl. 5. A ddthebread,cinnamon,salt,anddrainedraisinsto thecustard.Soakoveranicewaterbathforatleast hourtoallowthebreadtoabsorbthecustard. 6. Lightlybrushten6-floz/i8o-mLramekinswithsoft enedbutter. 7. Ladlethem ixtureintothepreparedramekins, fill ingthemthree-quartersfull. Bakeinawaterbathat 350°F/i77°Cuntiljustset,45to50minutes. 8. Removethecustardsfromthewaterbathandwipe theramekinsdry.Refrigerateuntilfullychilled. 1
1106
BAKING AND PASTRY
fillings, frosting and dessert sauces There are many options fo r assembling and finishing a cake or fo r creating the finishing touches to a plated dessert. In adding thes elements, the chef should always be m indful of marrying all the flavors and textures, so that they blend with, complement, a enhance each other. In addition to th e ir role as a dessert a^ they are also used as a basic component o f other i t e m s ^ ^ ^ H H fro s tin g s ^ jjd s ^ u c e s can be prepared in a variety
insistencies to
p **-
cojag^m p ig m eent n t a range o f dessert items. They ccan a nbb4^ jo t e d on the plate, fzzled, s p o o n e ^ j^ p re a d over the main it ^ |^ p j< e Tor pastry.
B u tt e r c r e a m s are m a d e by b le n d in g s o ft b utter into an e gg-a n d - s u g ar base. B u t t e r c r e a m s H E L P TO
MAKE
ELEGANT
CAKES AND
TORTES.
The
MANNER
IN W H I C H
THE
EGGS A N D
S U G A R ARE
C O M B I N E D , AS W E L L AS W H E T H E R W H O L E EGGS , EGG Y O L K S , OR EGG W H I T E S A R E U S E D , P R O D U C E S A VA RI ET Y OF BUTTERCREAMS.
buttercream For all typ e s o f b u tte rc re a m it is im p o rta n t th a t the b u tte r be s o ft and a t room te m p e ra tu re ; hard b u tte r w ill n o t in co rp o ra te to fo rm a cream y sm oo th fro s tin g . To make Swiss b u tte rcre a m , com bine th e sugar and egg w h ite s and g e n tly w h isk over a sim m e ring hot w a te r bath u n til th e sugar is dissolved, the m ixtu re is warm , and th e egg w h ite s are fro th y . N ext w hip th e m ixtu re to fo rm a s t if f peak m eringue, add the b u tte r, and w hip to fo rm the b u tte rcre a m . Swiss b u tte rc re a m is stab le and good fo r icing cakes and pipin g borders and decor, b u t i f you w a n t the m o st stab le bu tte rcre a m , use Italian bu tte rcre a m . To make Ita lia n b u tte rcre a m , have th e s o ft, ro o m -te m p e ra tu re b u tte r, egg w hites, and sugar ready. Begin by cooking the sugar and w a te r to make a syrup. N ext w hip the egg w h ite s to s o ft peaks and then add the h o t sugar syrup. A fte r the m ixtu re reaches fu ll v o l ume, continue to w hip to cool down the m eringue b e fo re adding th e bu tte r. Flavorings fo r b u tte rcre a m m ust also be a t room te m p e r a tu re and ready to add as soon as the b u tte rc re a m is made.
m ethod at-a-glance 1. Cook the sugar to s o ft ball stage.
2. Whip the egg whites, slowly adding the sugar syrup while the eggs whip.
3. Gradually add softened b utter to the base and beat until smooth.
1108
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
The fo llo w in g fla vo rin g s are f o r 1 lb /4 5 4 g o f prepared b u t tercrea m : » 3 o z /8 5 g b itte rsw e et chocolate, m elted and cooled » 2 o z /5 7 g w hite or milk chocolate, m elted and cooled » 2 o z /5 7 g praline paste, 1 tb s p /1 5 mL brandy, and 1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
buttercream
1. to prepare the meringue,
com
bine sugar and w a te r in a saucepan and b rin g to a boil. C ontinue to b o il th e sugar syrup w ith o u t s tirrin g u n til th e te m p e ra tu re reaches 2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . Use a w e t p a s try brush to w ipe down th e sides o f th e pan to dissolve any sugar c ry s ta ls th a t splash on to th e sides. ( If th e cry s ta ls rem ain, th e y w ill a c t as "seeds" and cause th e syrup to crysta llize .) Use a candy th e rm o m e te r to check th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e syrup. This te m p e ra tu re is also known as the s o ft ba ll stage. W hen th e syrup reaches th e c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re , add it im m e d ia te ly to th e egg w h ites.
method in detail 2. as the sugar syrup cooks, whip th e egg w h ite s on m edium speed. The ideal is to have the egg w h ite s reach s o ft peaks a t th e same tim e th a t the syrup reaches 2 4 0 °F /1 1 6 °C . W ith th e m ixe r s till running, g ra d u a lly pour th e h o t sugar syrup in a th in stre a m in to th e w h ite s. To p re ve n t s p la tte rin g , add th e syrup so th a t it pours down th e side o f th e bow l ra th e r tha n on to th e w ire w hip. Continue to be at th e m ix tu re u n til a firm m eringue fo rm s and th e m ix tu re cools to room te m p e ra tu re . If the m eringue is to o hot, it w ill m e lt th e b u tte r as it is added. Check th e te m p e ra tu re by fe e lin g th e side o f th e bowl. It should be cool to th e touch.
chapt er 35 »
FILLINGS, FROSTI NGS, AND DE S S E RT S AUCE S
1109
3. gradually add soft butter
to the
m eringue base and be at th e m ix tu re u n til a sm ooth, lig h t b u tte rc re a m fo rm s . As th e b u tte r is f ir s t added, the m e ringue w ill fa ll and th e m ix tu re may appear broken. Con tin u e to add th e b u tte r in sm all am ounts w ith th e m ixer running and th e b u tte rc re a m w ill becom e sm oo th and light. A t th is p o in t, it is ready to apply to a prepared cake, o r it may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use. B u tte rc re a m takes on o th e r fla v o rs and odors re a d ily and m ust, th e re fo re , be tig h tly covered b e fo re sto rin g . It may be re frig e ra te d fo r up to 7 days o r fro z e n f o r up to 3 m onths. A llo w chilled b u tte rc re a m to re tu rn to room te m p e ra tu re and beat it using th e paddle u n til ve ry sm oo th and lig h t b e fo re using it to f ill o r f r o s t a cake. B u tte rc re a m s should be p e rfe c tly sm oo th and s o ft. They should be sw e et b u t n o t o ve rly sw eet. There should be no d e te c ta b le grains or pieces o f sugar o r any lumps o f b u tte r.
Fillings and Icings fo r Layered Cakes AMOUNT FOR 8-IN/20-CM CAKE
AMOUNTFOR 10-IN/25-CM CAKE
BUTTERCREAM
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g
LEMON CURD
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g
GANACHE (FOR GLAZING)
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 g
BUTTERCREAM
12 o z /3 4 0 g
1 lb /4 5 4 j
fillin g
ic in g
BAKING AND PASTRY
a k e l a y e r s s h o u l d be a l l o w e d to c o o l c o m p l e t e l y b e f o r e c u t t in g t h e m
into l a y e r s
.C
a k es
B E C A U S E T H E Y HA V E A M OR E U N I F O R M F L A V O R A ND T E X T U R E . F l L L I N G S S P R E A D ONTO L A Y E R S S H O U L D G E N E R A L L Y BE L E S S T H A N V 2 I n / 1 C M THI CK.
cake layering and icing basics B efo re slicin g a cake in to layers, trim any uneven areas fro m th e sides and to p . For the be st resu lts, use a cake -d e co ra tin g tu rn ta b le and a k n ife w ith a long, thin , se rra te d blade. S et th e cake on a cake round and then on th e tu rn ta b le . F irst, d ivid e the cake by eye in to th e desired num ber o f layers. In se rt th e k n ife in to th e side o f th e cake a t th e a p p ro p ria te level and, holding th e kn ife stea dy and level and slo w in g ro ta tin g th e tu rn ta b le , move the blade o f th e k n ife in to th e cake to cu t th e layer. Remove th e layer and s e t it aside; re p e a t as
cake layering and icing basics
C
TH AT A R E M A D E O F M O R E T H I N N E R L A Y E R S A R E P R E F E R A B L E TO T H O S E WI TH F E W E R , T H I C K E R L A Y E R S ,
necessary. B e fo re assem bling th e cake, brush any loose crum bs fro m th e layers. Cake layers may be m oistened w ith a v a rie ty o f syrups, fro m plain sim ple syrup to one in fu sed w ith spices or a liqueur. The syrup adds m o istu re to d rie r layers such as sponge cakes, and adds fla v o r as well. Brush th e syrup evenly over th e cu t surface o f each layer b e fo re it is assem bled. The layers should be m oiste ne d b u t n o t sodden.
m ethod at-a-glance Set the cake in the center o f a turntable.
2. Apply generous icing to the sides, smoothing to create an even finish.
3. Continue to ice, working from the edges of the cake toward the center. To finish, smooth the lip o f icing over and across the top o f the cake to create a smooth, even surface. A
chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
llll
1. use a turntable fo r icing a cake. A tu rn ta b le allow s th e cake to be ro ta te d easily, which aids in th e a p p lica tio n o f a sm ooth, even layer o f icing. Use e ith e r a s tra ig h t o r o ffs e t m e ta l spa tula to ice th e cake. The ap p ro p ria te le ng th o f th e spatula depends on th e size o f the cake and personal p re fe ren ce. A fte r fillin g th e cake, place a generous am o un t o f b u tte rc re a m on to p . Hold a spatula stea dy and a t a s lig h t angle w h ile spinning th e tu rn ta b le to apply a sm o o th even layer o f b u tte rc re a m on to p o f the cake. A llo w th e excess b u tte rc re a m to fa ll down th e sides o f th e cake.
method in detail 2. to ice the sides
o f th e cake, apply a gen
erous am ount o f icing to th e sides to ease s m o o th in g and ensure a clean fin is h . To sm oo th th e sides o f th e cake a f te r ap p lyin g th e icing, hold a spa tula v e rtic a lly against the cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle, w ith th e edge o f the spatula to u ch in g th e icing, and ro ta te the cake ag ainst th e spa tula ; th e tip o f th e spa tula should ju s t to u ch th e surface o f the tu rn ta b le . This w ill n o t only sm oo th th e icing, b u t w ill also cause som e o f th e excess icing fro m th e sides to rise above the to p o f th e cake, m aking a lip or ridge.
1112
BAKING AND PASTRY
o f th e cake
cake a t a 4 5 -d e g re e angle and sm oo th th e lip o f icing over and across th e to p to cre a te a p e rfe c tly sm oo th to p and a sharp angled edge.
cake layering and icing basics
3. work from the edges
to w a rd the center. Hold th e spatula ag ainst th e to p o f the
4. mark the cake into portions, if desired, using a s tra ig h t-e d g e d k n ife o r long s tra ig h t m etal spatula. A lte rn a tiv e ly , garnish may be ap plied by tre a tin g th e cake to p as a w hole (th is is ty p ic a lly done to sm a lle r cakes o r to spe cia l occasion cakes). A v a rie ty o f sim p le garnishes can also be ap plied (such as a shell b o rd e r o r ro s e tte s ), w ith o r w ith o u t a d d itio n a l garnishes, such as cho colate c u to u ts, fre s h berries, jam , and th e like.
chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
1113
Ganache, a b le n d o f cream and ch o c o la te , has m any uses.
It
m a y be u s e d a s a s a u c e o r t o
G L A Z E A C A K E , O R IT M A Y B E W H I P P E D A N D U S E D A S A F I L L I N G A N d /
o
R I C I NG. G A N A C H E C A N A L S O
B E M A D E W I T H A S T I F F E R C O N S I S T E N C Y , C H I L L E D , A N D R O L L E D I NT O T R U F F L E S . L l G H T G A N A C H E IS SOMETIM ES USED AS A CHOCOLATE SAUCE.
ganache There are a num ber o f recipes fo r th is a ll-tim e fa v o rite d e sse rt sauce, and by varying the p ro p o rtio n s in th e recipe so th a t th e re is m ore chocolate in re la tio n to the am ount o f cream, a harder ganache can be made. This hard ganache can be paddled and used fo r icing or fillin g . A dding an even g re a te r am ount o f chocolate w ill produce th e heavy ganache used to prepare cho colate tru ffle s . C hocolate fo r ganache should be cut in to ve ry sm all pieces, which fa c ilita te s even m elting. One o f th e m o st e ffic ie n t ways to chop cho colate is to use a se rra te d knife ; the se rra tio n causes th e cho colate to break in to sm all shards as it is cut. Use the b e s t-q u a lity cho colate available to be sure o f a sm ooth, rich ly fla v o re d sauce. Place the chopped choco la te in to a h e a tp ro o f bowl. Place th e cream and b u tte r ( if using) in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Infusion is an e ffe c tiv e m ethod o f fla v o rin g ganache. Bring the cream to a boil, add th e fla vo rin g , and rem ove the pan fro m the heat. Cover and allow to stand u n til the fla v o r has been infused in to th e cream (5 to 10 m inutes). S train, if necessary. A fte r strain in g, w a te r or m ilk should be added as necessary to bring the liquid to its o rigin al w e ig h t so the
m ethod at-a-glance Combine the hot cream and chocolate.
2. Let the m ixture stand undisturbed fo r several minutes.
3. S tir the ganache until the cream is incorporated and the m ixture is smooth, thick, and shiny.
1114
BAKING AND PASTRY
fin is h e d ganache w ill be th e p ro pe r consistency. Ideal in g re d ie n ts fo r in fu sio ns include teas, herbs, and spices. D epending on the desired resu lt, liqueurs or s p irits can be added fo r fla vo rin g . Pastes and com pounds can also be added. Because these are s tro n g ly fla vo re d , the y are usu ally added to ta s te to th e fin is h e d ganache.
1. combine the cream
w ith th e choco
late. H eat th e cream and pour it over th e chopped choco late. A llo w th e m ix tu re to stand, un distu rbed , f o r a fe w m inutes.
method in detail 2. stir the ganache u n til th e cream is fu lly in c o rp o ra te d and th e m ix tu re is co m p le te ly sm ooth. A t th is p o in t, add any de sire d fla v o rin g (fla v o re d liqueurs, e x tra c ts , o r purees). The ganache is ready to be used now o r may be re frig e ra te d f o r la te r use. Ganache should be in te n s e ly fla v o re d , w ith th e choco la te fla v o r enriched and sm oo th ed by th e cream. The te x tu re should be c o m p le te ly sm oo th and dense. The m ore cho colate in th e ganache, th e th ic k e r th e te x tu re w ill be. Ganache is very g lossy when w arm ed and used as a glaze. When cooled and w hipped, it becom es m ore opaque w ith a m a tte -lik e fin is h , lig h te n in g s om ew hat in color. Ingre d ie n ts added to fla v o r o r garnish th e ganache should be a p p ro p ria te , w ith o u t m asking o r ove rw h elm ing th e choco late's flavo r.
chapter 35 » FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
lll5
MAKINGTRUFFLES
Scoophardganacheandrollintosmall ballsinthepalmofyourhand. Once thetruffleshaveset,theyarereadytobe finishedbyrollinginnuts,cocoapowder, confectioners’sugar,oramyriadofother ingredients.Togivethetrufflesaglossy sheenandalongershelflife,coatthemin temperedchocolate. Picturedhereisastationforcoating trufflesintemperedchocolate. Theun finishedtrufflesareonthechef'sleft,the bowloftemperedchocolateisinthecen ter,andthecoatedtrufflesareontheright. Tocoattrufflesintemperedchocolate, smearasmallamountofthechocolate inthepalmofyourhand,rollthetruffle
1116
BAKING AND PASTRY
tocoatinathinevenlayer,andplacethe coatedtrufflesonthefarthestsideofa parchment-linedsheetpantopreventhav ingtopassoverthemandpossiblydrip chocolateontothem.Allowthechocolate tocompletelyhardenandthenrepeatthe processtogiveeachtruffletwocoatingsof chocolate. Afterthechocolatesets,thetruffles shouldbeshinyandwithoutanycracks. Storeinacool,dryenvironment,butnot intherefrigerator.Handlingthemoral lowingthemtotoucheachotherwillmar theirglossyfinishwithfingerprintsor scratches. Ifyoumusthandlethem,wear glovesandworkcarefully
W henusingamicrowavetomelt Chocolateispurchasedintemper,butin chocolate,usemediumpowerratherthan ordertoworkwithit,itmustbemelted highandheatthechocolatefor30-second andthentemperedagain,sothatasitcools intervals,removingandstirringitaftereach andsetsitwillreturntothesamestateas intervaltoensureevenheatingandmelting. whenpurchased. Toproperlytemperchocolate, itmust T E M P E R IN G C H O C O L A T E alsobemeltedproperlytoensurethatit Twoofthemostcommonandeasilymas isnotoverheated,whichwouldruinthe teredwaystotemperchocolatearethe qualityofthechocolate. Beforemelting, seedmethodandtheblockmethod. chocolateshouldbefinelychopped.The Fortheseedmethod,usechoppedtem smallerthepieces,themoresurfacearea peredchocolate—approximately25per isexposedandthequickerthechocolate centoftheweightofthemeltedchocolate melts,helpingtopreventoverheating. A tobetemperedshouldbeaddedtothe hotwaterbathoramicrowaveisbestfor warm(no°F/43°C)meltedchocolateand gentlystirredtomeltandincorporateit. meltingchocolate. W henusingahotwaterbath,itisim Thewholemassisthenbroughttotheap portanttorememberthatmoisture(steam, propriateworkingtemperature. Fortheblockmethod,addasingle water,orcondensation)mustnevercome b lo c koftemperedchocolatetowarm incontactwiththechocolate. Moisture m e lte dchocolateandstirgentlyuntil causeschocolateto“seize,”ortobecome thedesiredtemperatureisreached.After thickandgrainy,renderingitunfitfor temperingandmostotheruses.Forthis thechocolateisbroughtintotemper,the reason,whenusingadoubleboilerbesure seed,orblockofchocolate, isremoved. thatthebowlortopofthedoubleboileris Theblockcanbeusedagain.Thismethod completelydryandfitssnuglyoverthepan issimpleandeffective,butslightlymore ofwater,formingatightseal. Thewater timeconsumingthanothermethodsof shouldbesteaminghotbutnotsimmering. tempering. W henthechocolateisintemper,it Gentlystirthechocolateoccasionallyasit s h o u ld evenlycoatthebackofasmallmet meltsforevenmelting.Removethechoco a l s p o o n andthensetquicklywithaclear latefromtheheatpromptlyonceitisfully s h in e a n d nostreaks. melted. M E L T IN G C H O C O L A T E
chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
working with chocolate
MELTING AND TEMPERING CHOCOLATE
1117
GLAZING CAKES, COOKIES, ORPASTRIES
Setacakethatistobeglazedonacard boardcakeroundandapplyasealcoatof buttercreamorjam,ifnecessary,andchill untilsetpriortoglazing.Asealcoatisvital ifthecakehasbeentrimmedorcutand layered,asitpreventscrumbsfrombeing incorporatedintotheglaze. Placethecakeonawirerackovera cleansheetpan.Havetheglazetepidso thatitdoesnotmeltthesealcoat(ifone wasapplied).Theglazeshouldnotbeso thinthatitrunsoffthecakecompletely. Pourorladletheglazeoverthecake.Use anoffsetspatulatoquicklyspreadthe glazeandcompletelyenrobethesidesof thecake.Thisstepmustbedonequickly, beforetheglazebeginstosetup,toavoid leavingspatulamarksonthesurface. Gentlytapthewirerackonthesheetpan tofacilitatetheflowofanyexcessglazeoff thecake.
1118
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
on d an t
pas tr ies
is t h e
. M
ost
characteristic
tr ad itio n al kitchens g lo s s y
g la z e
and
finish
for
petits
b a k es h o ps
,
it m u s t
use
f o u r s
,
ec la ir s
pu r c h a s e d
be w a r m e d
until
,
an d
fo n d a n t
d o u g h n u t s
. F
it is l i q u i d
or
,
a m o n g
fo n d an t
en o u g h
to
to
flow
other
have
its
readily
(1 0 5 °F /4 1 °C ).
working with fondant
working with tondant
F
Sm all ite m s are ty p ic a lly dipped in to th e fo n d a n t using a d ip p in g fo rk or s im ila r to o l. Larger ite m s are se t on racks on sheet pans and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, or drizzled over them . Fondant can be fla v o re d and colored as necessary using purees, con cen tra te , choco late, o r fo o d co lo rin g gels, liquids, o r pastes.
m ethod at-a-glance 1. Warm and thin the fondant until it reaches proper working tem perature.
2. Flavor and/or color the fondant as desired, adjusting the te xtu re as needed.
3. Keep fondant warm during use and work quickly fo r best results.
chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
1119
1. fondant is used
as th e tra d itio n a l glaze
fo r m any p a s try ite m s such as p e tits fo u rs, eclairs, and doughnuts. For fo n d a n t to gain its glossy fin ish , it m ust be p ro p e rly w arm ed u n til it is liquid enough to flo w rea d ily. P ro p e rly th in n e d fo n d a n t should be shiny and s lig h tly tra n sp a re n t. This pro ced ure is known as tem pe rin g. M o s t kitch e n s and bakeshops use purchased fon dan t. To pre pa re fo n d a n t so th a t it may be used f o r glazing, place it in a s ta in le s s -s te e l bow l and m e lt it over a h o t w a te r bath. Do n o t le t th e fo n d a n t exceed 10 5°F /41°C . Thin th e fo n d a n t to th e desired co n siste n cy w ith w arm w ater, corn syrup, o r a liqueur.
method in detail 2. once melted,
plain fo n d a n t can be f la
vored a n d /o r colore d as de sire d w ith co lo rin g pastes, purees, con ce n tra te s, o r chocolate. If using chocolate, fo r exam ple, s tir th e m e lte d cho colate in to th e fo n d a n t to fla v o r it. The fo n d a n t may need to be thin ne d again a fte r th e cho colate has been added.
1120
BAKING AND PASTRY
as you
w o rk and be sure to have a co m p le te glazing setu p ready. Sm all ite m s such as eclairs are ty p ic a lly dipp ed in to fo n dant. Larger ite m s are se t on w ire racks over she et pans and th e fo n d a n t is poured, ladled, spooned, o r drizzled over the item . Dip the to p o f an e cla ir in to the bow l o f fo n d a n t and hold it v e rtic a l to a llo w th e excess fo n d a n t to drip o ff. Use your fin g e r to g e n tly rem ove any excess fo n d a n t th a t s till rem ains a t th e end o f th e e cla ir b e fo re placing it on a she et pan.
chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
orking with tondant
3. keep the fondant warm
1121
F
ruit
fillings
are
used
for
m a n y
pies
and
tarts
. Th
e y
are
u s u a l ly
prepared
w ith
pitted
O R S L I C E D A N D P E E L E D F R E S H F R U I T . T H E F R U I T IS T Y P I C A L L Y C O M B I N E D W I T H S U G A R A N D A S T A R C H (f
lo u r
, A R R O W R O O T , C O R N S T A R C H , O R T A P I O C A ) TO P R O D U C E A F L A V O R F U L F I L L I N G W I T H E N O U G H
B O D Y T O S L I C E I NTO N E A T P O R T I O N S .
making a pie or tart Cooked cream or pudding fillin g s should be prepared only a fte r th e pie or ta r t shell has been com p le te ly prepared, baked, and cooled, so th a t when th e fillin g is ready, it may be im m e d ia te ly poured in to the shell. Hold all fillin g s a t the c o rre c t te m p e ra tu re fo r th e best fla v o r and con sisten cy in the fin ish e d pie or ta rt. A w ide v a rie ty o f to p p in g s are com m only used fo r pies and ta rts , including crum bs or streuse l, p a s try crust, m eringue, or glazes such as m elte d chocolate, ganache, o r a p rico t jam . Egg wash is o fte n ap plied to d o u b le -cru st or la ttic e -c ru s t pies o r ta r ts and should be blended in advance and applied in a thin, even layer w ith a p a s try brush. Pies and ta rts should be baked on sheet pans to catch any drips. Cool pies on w ire racks.
L I N I N G A PIE OR TA RT PAN Alw ays w o rk w ith th o ro u g h ly chilled dough. C hilling allow s th e dough to relax, th e fa t to firm up, and the starches pre se n t in the flo u r to com p le te ly absorb th e liquid. To ro ll o u t dough, tu rn it onto a flo u re d w o rk surface. L ig h tly d u st th e surface o f the dough w ith a d d itio n a l flo u r. Using even strokes, ro ll th e dough in to the desired thickn ess and shape. Turn it occasionally to produce an even shape and to keep it fro m s tic k in g to the w o rk surface. W ork fro m th e ce n te r to w a rd th e edges, ro llin g in d iffe re n t d irectio ns.
m ethod at-a-glance i. Carefully line the pie or ta rt pan w ith prepared dough, keeping the dough chilled before and a fte r lining.
2.
1122
If necessary, parbake the crust.
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
3. Fill the pie with desired fillin g and finish as necessary.
4. Bake the finished item as necessary.
making a pie or tart
1. line the pie or tart pan w ith p a s try dough. C a re fu lly tra n s fe r th e ro lle d dough in to th e pan. P o sitio n th e dough so th a t it c o m p le te ly covers th e e n tire pan. S e ttle th e dough in to th e pan, pre ssin g th e dough g e n tly ag ainst th e pan. Use a ball o f scrap dough to g e n tly press th e pie dough in to th e pie pan and dock th e b o tto m o f th e crust, if necessary. Trim th e excess dough fro m the rim , leaving enough to seal a to p c ru s t in place, if m aking a d o u b le -c ru s t pie, o r to pre pa re a flu te d or raised edge fo r a sin g le -c ru s t pie or ta rt.
method in detail 2. fill and finish the pie
as desired.
Some pies and ta r ts are fille d , then baked. O th ers call f o r th e c ru s t to be baked blind sep ara te ly, e ith e r p a rtia lly o r fu lly baked (see Blind Baking Pie and T art Shells, page 1124). To add a f r u it fillin g to an unbaked pie shell, com bine th e fillin g in g re d ie n ts and m ound th e m in th e shell. C u s ta rd -ty p e fillin g s should be c a re fu lly poured in to the shell to ju s t below th e rim o f th e pan. Some pies, e sp ecially f r u it pies, have a to p as w ell as a b o tto m crust. Roll o u t th e to p cru s t in th e same m anner as the b o tto m cru st. C a re fu lly lay th e to p c ru s t over the pie and cu t ve n ts in it to allow steam to escape. Press the dough in place around th e rim to seal the to p and b o tto m crusts. Trim away excess overhang and pinch o r crim p the edges. Pies and, less fre q u e n tly , ta rts may be fin is h e d w ith a la ttic e crust, made by c u ttin g s trip s o f dough and laying th e m on to p o f th e f illin g t o make a grid. Seal and crim p th e edges as fo r a d o u b le -c ru s t pie. Crumb to p p in g s should be a p plied in an even layer over th e surface o f th e fillin g . A n o th e r fre q u e n t pie t o p ping is m eringue, w hich is piped o n to th e pie in a d e cora tiv e p a tte rn or s im p ly m ounded and peaked. The m eringue is then q u ickly brow ned in a ve ry h o t oven or w ith a to rch .
chapter 35 » F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
1123
3. bake the pie. For a d o u b le -c ru s t pie, brush th e to p c ru s t ve ry lig h tly w ith egg wash and bake the pie on a she et pan in a h o t oven (4 2 5 °F /2 1 8 °C ) u n til done. In general, pies and ta rts are baked u n til the cru st is a rich golden brown. The dough should appear dry. If th e dough has been ro lle d o u t unevenly, th e th ic k e r p o rtio n s may appear m o ist, in d ic a tin g th a t the dough is n o t fu lly baked. F ru it fillin g s should be bubbling. C ustard fillin g s should be ju s t se t b u t n o t cooked to th e p o in t a t which th e surface cracks or shrinks away fro m th e crust.
BLIND BAKING PIE AND TART SHELLS
Toblindbakemeanstopartiallyorfully bakeanunfilledpieortartshell.Pastry shellsarepartiallyprebakedwhenthetime requiredtobakethefillingwillnotbelong enoughtofullybakethecrust. Shellsare completelyprebakedwhentheyaretobe filledwithaprecookedfillingoronethat doesnotrequirecookingorbaking. Toblindbakeapieortartshell,line thedoughwithparchmentpaperandfill itwithpieweights,driedbeans,orrice. Theweightswillpreventthebottomofthe crustfrombubblingupandthesidesfrom collapsingorslidingdownthepansides duringbaking. Placethepaninthepreheatedoven. Theparchmentandweightsneedonlystay inthepanuntilthecrusthasbakedlong enoughtoset.Oncethecrusthassetand
1124
B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
willmaintainitsform(generally10to12 minutesfora9-in/23-cmcrust),remove theparchmentandweightstoallowthe crusttobrownevenly.Returnthepanto theovenandbakethecrustuntilitreaches thedesiredcolor. Ifthecrustistobebaked againwithafilling,bakeitjustuntillight golden.Forafullybakedcrust,bakeitun tilitreachesadeepgoldenbrown,about 20totalminutes. Brushfullyprebakedpastryshellswith alightcoatingofsoftbutterormelted chocolatebeforefilling.Thiswillprevent moistureinthefillingfromseepinginto thecrustandmakingitsoggyorcausing ittoloseitscrisptexture.Applyathin coatingtotheshellusingapastrybrush. Refrigeratetheshellsothebutterorchoc olatehardensfully,thenfilltheshell.
Apple Pie
Makesonedouble-crustpie(9in/23cm)
Makes3lb4ozh.47kg 1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
4 o z /1 1 3 g w a te r
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
8 egg whites
5 o z/1 4 2 g sugar
2 lb /9 0 7 g butter, cut into medium chunks, soft
V2
1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract
o z/1 4 g tapioca starch
3A o z/21 g cornstarch
1. Com bine12oz/340gofthesugarwiththewaterin
'/2 ts p /1 .5 0 g s a lt
aheavy-bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilover tsp /1 g ground nutmeg medium-highheat,stirringtodissolvethesugar. tsp /1 g ground cinnamon Onceitreachesaboil,continuecookingwithout 1 tb s p /1 5 mL lemon juice stirringtothesoftballstage(238°F/ii4°C). 1 o z/2 8 g butter, melted 2 .M eanwhile,placetheeggwhitesinanelectricmixer fittedwiththewirewhip. 1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec 3.W henthesugarsyruphasreachedapproximately tions. Dividethedoughintwoequalpieces. Roll 230°F/ii0°C,whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeed halfofthedoughVsin/3mmthickandlinethepie untilfrothy.Graduallyaddtheremaining4oz/113g pan.Reservetheotherhalf,wrappedtightlyand sugarandwhipthemeringuetomediumpeaks. refrigerated. 4 .W henthesugarsyrupreaches238°F/ii4°C,additto 2 .Tosstheappleswiththesugar,tapioca,cornstarch, themeringueinaslowsteadystreamdowntheside salt,nutmeg,cinnamon,lemonjuice,andbutter. Fill ofthebowlwhilewhippingonmediumspeed.W hip th epieshellwiththeapplemixture. onhighspeeduntilthemeringuehascooledtoroom 3. Rollouttherem ainingdoughVsin/3mmthickand temperature. p la c e it o v e r th e filling. 5. A ddthebutterinsmallbatches, mixinguntilfully incorporatedaftereachadditionandscrapingdown 4 . Crimptheedgestosealandcutseveralventsinthe topofthepie. thesidesofthebowlasnecessary.Blendintheva nilla.Thebuttercreamisnowreadyforuseoritmay 5. Bakeonasheetpanina375^/19i°Covenuntilthe betightlycoveredandrefrigerated. fillingisbubbling,about45minutesto1hour. 6. Servewarmoratroomtemperature. NOTE: See alternative flavoring options on page 1108. V2 V2
chapter 35 » FI L L I N GS , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Italian Buttercream
1125
Cherry Pie
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
11 lb 4 o z/5.10 kg frozen pitted cherries
3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
8 lb 12 o z/3.97 kg cherryjuice
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pecans
6 lb 4 oz/2.83 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
3/2 o z/9 9 g sugar
10 o z/2 8 4 g cornstarch
3'/2 o z/9 9 g bread flour
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g s u g a r
5 lb /2.27 kg corn syrup
1 o z /2 8 g s a lt
14 eggs
10 o z/2 8 4 g lemon juice
1 o z/2 8 g salt
10 fl o z/3 0 0 mL Egg Wash (page 1023)
2 tb sp /3 0 mL vanilla extract
1 .Allowthecherriestothawovernightinasieveso
thejuicedrainsaway.Catchandreservethejuicein acontainer.Addtothereservedcherryjuiceifthe cherriesdidnotyieldenough. 2.. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec tions. Scale1lb4oz/567gforeachpieanddivide eachintotwopieces. RollonepieceofdoughVsin/3 mmthickandlinethepiepan.Refrigeratethelined pans. Rollout,wrap,andrefrigeratetheremaining piecesofdough. 3. Com bine20floz/6oomLofthecherryjuicewith thecornstarchandstirtodissolve,makingaslurry. 4 . Com binetheremaining3%qt/3.60Lcherryjuice withthesugarandsaltinasaucepanandbringtoa boiltodissolve. 5. Slow lyaddtheslurrytothehotcherryjuice, stirring constantlywithawhisk.Bringthemixturebacktoa boilandcook,stirringconstantly,untilclear, about1 minute. 6. Foldinthecherriesandlemonjuice.Allowthefill ingtocoolcompletely. 7. Scale2lb12oz/1.25kgofthefillingintoeachpie shell,topwithasecondpieceofpiedough,andseal theedges. Pricksomeholesinthetopofthepieshell andbrushwiththeeggwash. 8. Bakeonsheetpansina450°F/232°Covenuntilthe topofthepieisgoldenbrownandyoucanseethe fillingbubblinginside,about40minutes. 9 . Servew armoratroomtemperature.
1126
Pecan Pie
BA K I N G A N D P A S T R Y
6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter
1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate thelinedpans. 2 . Scale4oz/113gofthepecansforeachpieandspread theminanevenlayerinthebottomofeachunbaked piecrust. 3. Placethesugarandflourinalargestainless-steel bowlandwhisktocombine.Addthecornsyrupand blend. 4 .A ddtheeggs, salt,andvanillaandstiruntilfully combined.Blendinthebutter. 5. Scale1lb12oz/794gofthem ixtureintoeachpre paredpieshell. 6. Bakeonsheetpansina400°F/204°Covenuntilthe fillinghassetandthecrustisagoldenbrown,about 40minutes. 7. Letcoolcom pletelybeforeserving. C ranberry-Pecan Pie: S pread2 oz/57gcranberries in an even layer in the bottom o f each unbaked pie crust before adding the pecans and fillin g as above.
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
Pumpkin Pie
Makes5pies(gin/23cm)
B lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
3 lb 2 o z/1.42 kg Basic Pie Dough (page 1070)
2 lb /9 0 7 g water
5 lb /2.27 kg pumpkin puree
2 lb /9 0 7 g sugar
1 lb 2 o z /5 1 0 g s u g a r
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
5 o z/1 4 2 g dark brown sugar
10 o z /2 8 4 g lemon juice
'/2 o z /1 4 g s a lt
1 o z/2 8 g grated lemon zest
2V2 ts p /5 g ground cinnamon
6 o z/1 7 0 g cornstarch
2'Ats p /5 g ground ginger
8 o z/2 2 7 g egg yolks
2 V2 ts p /5
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
VAts p /2 .5 0 g ground cloves
Italian or Swiss Meringue (page 1024), as needed
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g milk
1. Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie.Rollthedough Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate thelinedpans. 2 . Blindbakethepieshellsuntilfullycooked(seepage 1124). Letcoolcompletely. 3. Com bine1V2qt/1.44Lofthewaterand1lb/454g ofthesugarwiththesalt, lemonjuice, andzestina saucepanandbringtoaboil. 4 . Com binetheremainingsugarandthecornstarch andmixthoroughly.Combinetheeggyolkswiththe remainingwaterandmixthoroughly.Combinethe twomixturesandblendwell. 5.W henthelemonmixturecomestoaboil, temperin theeggyolkmixture. 6. Returnthemixturetoaboil. Boilfor1minute, stir ringconstantly.Stirinthebutter. 7. Scale1lb8oz/68ogintoeachprebakedpieshell. Refrigerateovernightbeforetoppingwithmeringue andbrowning.Themeringuemaybebrownedusing eitherthebroileroratorch.
g ground nutmeg
1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g evaporated milk 15 eggs
1 . Preparethepiedoughaccordingtotherecipedirec
tions. Scale10oz/284gforeachpie. Rollthedough Vsin/3m mthickandlinethepiepans. Refrigerate thelinedpans. 2 . Com binethepumpkin,sugars,salt,cinnamon,gin ger,nutmeg,andclovesandmixuntilsmooth.Mix togetherthemilk,evaporatedmilk,andeggs.Com binewiththepumpkinmixture. 3. Blindbakethepieshellsuntilpartiallycooked(see page1124). 4 . Scale1lb14oz/851g°fthepum pkinmixtureinto eachprebaked9-in/23-cmpieshell. 5. Bakeonsheetpansina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthe fillingissetandthefillingandcrustaregolden brownontop,about50minutes.
chapter 35 » F I L LI NGS, F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
tilling, trosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Lemon Meringue Pie
1127
Frangipane Filling
Makes3dozentartlets(3in/8cm)
Poached Pears
Makes12poachedpears
8 o z/2 2 7 g almond paste
12 small pears
l'/4 o z /B 5 g sugar
POACHINGLIQUID
2 eggs
1 lb /4 5 4 g red or white wine
4 o z/1 1 3 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g water
l '/2 o z/4 3 g cake flour
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
1. Beatthealm ondpasteandsugarwiththepaddlein
anelectricmixeronlowspeedtobreakupthepaste. Add1eggandbeatonmediumspeeduntilthereare nolumps.Addthebutterandcreamwell. 2 . Beatintherem ainingegg. 3 .A ddtheflourandmixjustuntilcombined. 4 . Useasafillingfortartshells.
Pear Frangipane Tartlets Makes1dozentartlets 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086) 9 o z/2 5 5 g Frangipane Filling (recipe precedes)
6 cloves (optional) 1 cinnamon stick (optional)
1. Peelthepears.Theym aybeleftwholewiththestem
intact,orhalvedandcored. 2 . Com bineallthepoachingingredientsinasaucepan andbringtoasimmer,stirringtodissolvethesugar. 3. Placethepearsinthepoachingliquidandsim mer untiltheyaretender.Letthepearscoolinthepoach ingliquid,drain,anduseasdesired.
Hard Ganache Makes6V0I2.J2kg 4 lb /2.72 kg dark chocolate, finely chopped 2 lb /9 0 7 g heavy cream
12 Poached Pears (recipe follows), halved Apricot Glaze (page 1130), warm, as needed 3 o z/8 5 g sliced almonds, toasted and chopped
1. RolloutthedoughtoathicknessofVsin/3m m-
Usinga4%-in/n-cmcutter,cut12roundsfromthe dough.Placetheroundsin3-in/8-cmtartringson asheetpan.Dockthebottomsofthetartletshells withapastrydockerorthetinesofafork. 2 .U singapastrybagfittedwithano.5plainpastry tip,pipe%oz/21gofthefrangipanefillingintoeach shell,fillingthemhalfway. 3. Slicethepearsandfanthemontopofthefrangipane. 4 . Bakeat375°F/i9i°Cuntiltheshellsandfillingare goldenbrown,about45minutes. 5. Coolthetartletstoroomtem perature. 6. Brushthetartletswiththeglaze.Arrangeathinbor derofalmondsaroundtheedgeofeachtartlet. Serve. 1128
BAKING AND PASTRY
1. Placethechocolateinastainless-steelbow l. 2 . Bringthecreamjusttoasim mer. Pourthehot
creamoverthechocolateandallowittostandfor1 minute. 3. Stiruntilthechocolateisthoroughlym elted. 4 . Theganachecanbeusedim mediately,oritcanbe coveredandrefrigerated,thenrewarmed.
Classic Caramel Sauce
Makes32fl 02/960mL
Makes32fl 02/960mL
10 o z/2 8 4 g sugar
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g water
13 o z/3 6 9 g sugar
4'/2 o z/1 2 8 g light corn syrup
10 o z /2 8 4 g glucose
4 o z/1 1 3 g cocoa powder, sifted
2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft
1 lb /4 5 4 g bittersw eet chocolate, melted
1. Com binethesugar,water,andsyrupinaheavy-
bottomedsaucepanandbringtoaboilovermediumhighheat. Removefromtheheat. 2 . Placethecocoainabow landaddenoughofthehot sugarsyruptomakeapaste,stirringuntilsmooth. Graduallyaddtheremainingsyrupandmixuntil fullyincorporated. 3.A ddthechocolateandblenduntilfullyincorporated. 4 . Strainthesaucethroughafine-m eshsieve. 5 Servew armorchilled. .
1. Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil
overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat tokeepwarm. 2 . Prepareanicew aterbath. 3. Com binethesugarandsyrupinaheavy-bottomed saucepanandslowlycookovermediumheat,stir ringconstantly,untilallthesugarhasdissolved.Stop stirringandcontinuecookingtoagoldencaramel. Removefromtheheatandshockthesaucepaninthe icewaterbathtostopthecooking. 4 . Rem ovethesaucepanfromthebathandstirinthe butter. Carefullystirinthehotcream,mixinguntil fullyblended. 5. Servew armorchilled.
Sabayon
Makes32fl oz/g6omL
Raspberry Coulis
18 egg yolks
Makes32fl 02/960m i
12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar 12 o z/3 4 0 g white wine
2 lb /9 0 7 g fresh or frozen raspberries
1. Com binetheeggyolks,sugar,andwineinamixer
bowlandwhisktogetheruntilthoroughlyblended. Placethebowloverapotofsimmeringwaterand heat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixtureisthick enedandveryfoamyandhasreachedi8o°F/82°C. 2 . Transferthebow ltotheelectricmixerfittedwith thewirewhipandwhiponmediumspeeduntilcool. 3. Transferthesabayontoacontainerandcoveritw ith plasticwrapplaceddirectlyagainstthesurfaceto preventaskinfromforming.Servewarmoratroom temperature. NOTE: If desired, whip 2 4 f I oz/720 mL heavy cream to
tilling, frosting, and dessert sauce recipes
Chocolate Sauce
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar, or as needed 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice, or as needed
1 . Com binetheraspberries, 8oz/227gsugar,and2
tbsp/30mLlemonjuiceinasaucepanovermedium heat. Simmer, stirring,untilthesugarhasdissolved, about10minutes. 2.. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m eshsieve. 3.A ddadditionalsugarand/orlemonjuice, ifnecessary. NOTE: An equal amount o f another fruit, such as strawberries or chopped mangos, can be substituted for the raspberries.
medium peaks and fo ld it into cooled sabayon.
Z abaglione: S ubstitute Marsala fo r the white wine.
chapter 35 » F IL LIN G S , F R O S T I N G S , A N D D E S S E R T S A U C E S
1129
Apricot Glaze M akes 1 lb 91/2 oz/723 g
Apple Butter M akes 32 fl oz/960 mL
9 o z /2 5 5 g apricot jam
7 lb /3.18 kg apples
9 o z /2 5 5 g corn syrup
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g apple cider
6 o z/1 7 0 g water
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
3 tb s p /4 5 mL liquor, such as rum or brandy
1 tb sp /6 g ground cardamom
1. Com binealltheingredientsinasaucepan,bringtoa
boil, andstiruntilsmooth. 2 . Usetheglazew hileitisstillwarm,applyingittothe itemswithapastrybrush.
Dried Cherry Sauce M akes 1 lb 10 oz/737 g 3 o z/8 5 g sugar 1 3 o z /3 6 9 g re d w in e 6 o z/1 7 0 g water
2 ts p /4 g ground cinnamon 1 ts p /3 g grated lemon zest '/■ ttsp /l g salt
1 . Peel, core,andslicetheapples. Com binethemwith
theciderinalargeheavy-bottomedsaucepan,cover, andbringtoasimmer. Simmeruntiltheapplesarea softpulp,about30minutes. 2 .Passtheapplepulpthroughafoodm illintoaclean saucepan. 3. A ddthesugar,cardamom,cinnamon,zest,andsalt andsimmer, stirringfrequently,untilverythick, about2hours. 4 . Coolcom pletely,coverandstoreintherefrigerator.
2 tb sp /3 0 mL orange juice 2 tb sp /3 0 mL lemon juice 1 vanilla bean 4 o z/1 1 3 g dried cherries
V2 o z/1 4 g cornstarch
1. Com binethesugar, 12floz/360mLofthewine,the
water,orangejuice, andlemonjuiceinasaucepan. Splitthevanillabean,scrapetheseedsintothepan, addthepod,andbringthemixturetoaboil. Remove fromtheheatandaddthecherries. 2 . Refrigerateovernight, covered. 3. Strainthesauce, reservingthecherries. Pourthe liquidintoasaucepanandbringtoaboil. 4.M eanwhile,makeaslurrywiththecornstarchand theremaining2tbsp/30mLwine. Graduallywhisk theslurryintothesauceandbringbacktoaboil, whiskinguntilthesaucethickensenoughtocoatthe backofaspoon. 5.Allowthesaucetocooltoroomtem perature. 6. Addthereservedcherriesandserveatonce.
1130
B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
Fruit Salsa Makes 2 lb 2 oz /g 6 4 g
5 o z/1 4 2 g papaya, cut into small dice 5 o z/1 4 2 g mango, cut into small dice 5 o z/1 4 2 g honeydew melon, cut into small dice 5 o z/1 4 2 g strawberries, cut into small dice 2 tb s p /3 0 mL passion fru it juice 1 tb sp /3 g finely chopped mint 3 f I o z/9 0 mL am aretto liqueur 8 o z/2 2 7 g orange juice 3 o z/8 5 g sugar
1. Com binethepapaya,mango,melonstrawberries,
passionfruitjuice,andmint. Setasidetomacerate. 2 . Com binetheamaretto,orangejuice, andsugarand bringtoaboil. Boiluntilreducedbyhalf.Gently blendthereducedliquidintothefruit. 3. Refrigerateuntilneeded.
desserts When designing a plated dessert, the chef must consider contrasting and complementing flavors and textures, the color and style, customer base, specific event or menu needs, and the environment for preparation and service. Even with all of this in mind, it is importantto realize that a dessert does not have to be complex to be flavorful and memorable. There are a number of simple and easy ways to dress up a basic dessert. Some simple examples are the addition of a warm sauce, a frozen element such as ice cream, or a simple garnish such as a tuile, candied nuts, or slices of fruit.
A
A
trends in plated desserts When designing a d e s s e rt menu, it is e sse n tia l to con
a t a banquet or c a te rin g event, because the y are basic
sid e r c u rre n t tre n d s to keep you r menu fre s h and in te r
and sim p le to prepare. Chefs should also consider trend s being im plem ented
esting. Am ong cu rre n t tre n d s is a re tu rn to m ore ru s tic s ty le de sse rts such as g a le tte s and " c o m fo rt fo o d " like
in th e ir menus and tra n s la te th o se concepts in to d e sse rt
pies and cobblers. The appeal o f the se d e sse rts lies in
item s. As a menu changes seasonally o r w ith tre n d s, so
th e ir s im p lic ity o f fla vo r, style , and p re se n ta tio n . These
should th e d e s s e rt menu.
d e sse rts are also ideal fo r p ro d u c tio n in a re s ta u ra n t or
contrast: flavor, taste, texture, temperature, and eye appeal The p a s try c o n tra s t ta b le th a t fo llo w s is a visual guide
fillin g th a t s t ill re ta in s a litt le ta rtn e s s fro m th e apples,
to un de rsta n d in g th e basic c h a ra c te ris tic s th a t the
w h ile the ice cream w ill lend its cream y, s o ft te x tu re .
ch e f can use in th e c re a tio n o f a p la te d de sse rt. When
The pie should be served w arm to b ring o u t its fla v o rs
co n ce p tu a lizin g de sserts, th in k a b o u t in c o rp o ra tin g a
and arom as, as w e ll as to pro vid e te m p e ra tu re c o n tra s t
num ber o f c o n tra s tin g c h a ra c te ris tic s by using d iff e r
w ith th e cold ice cream. C o n tra s tin g e lem e nts in a pla te d d e sse rt are divided
e n t com ponents, b u t never add com p on ents ju s t to have a n o th e r co n tra st. The num ber o f com p on ents should
am ong fla v o r and arom a, ta s te , te x tu re , te m p e ra tu re ,
make sense f o r th e d e ssert.
and eye appeal. When using th e cha rt, keep a basic
Keep th e idea o f c o n tra s t in m ind when adding new
u n d e rsta n d in g o f cu ltu re and regional a v a ila b ility o f in
de sse rts to a cu rre n t menu o r designing a new menu. A
g re d ie n ts to ensure th e m o st succe ssful com binations.
balanced menu should con tain w arm and cold, sw e e t and
F lavor and ta s te co m b in a tio n s are the m o st in te rre la te d
ta rt, and rich and lean de sserts.
com p on ents on th is cha rt. Depending on your selectio n
C om bining c o n tra s tin g elem e nts on one d e sse rt
o f in g re d ie n ts, one w ill n a tu ra lly fo llo w th e other. Also
p la te w ill keep th e pa la te in te re s te d and e xcite d. The
keep in m ind th a t s w eetness w ill vary only in in te n sity,
classic apple pie a la m ode is a p e rfe c t exam ple. Think
b u t w ill be a com p on ent o f all de sse rts to some degree. The o b je c t o f th e te x tu ra l com p on ent is to have
o f how it re la te s to th e c o n tra s t ta b le : An exce ptio na l apple pie w ill have a crisp, fla k y c ru s t and perhaps a
a balance o f m o u th fe e l— to o much crunch is not
Contrast Table SEASONALITY
FLAVOR AND AROMA
TASTE
TEXTURE
TEMPERATURE
PRESENTATION
FALL
C hocolate
S w e et
Crunchy
Frozen
Shape
SPRING
Vanilla
S a lty
Crisp
C hilled
Volum e
SUM M ER
F ru it
B itte r
B r ittle
Cool
C olor
W INTER
Spice
A cid ic
Chewy
Room te m p e ra tu re
V isual te x tu re
N ut
Umami
Cream y
W arm
Liqu id
H ot
Icy Tender Cakey
1132
B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
o f th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e com p on ents on any p la te or
P re s e n ta tio n does n o t mean th e p la te needs to be in tric a te ly pre sen te d. Today, one o f th e b ig g e st tre n d s
menu. W hile each p la te does n o t ne cessa rily need con
is to w a rd m inim alism : p re s e n tin g a u th e n tic, natural f la
tra s ts o f te m p e ra tu re , th e ove rall menu should p re se n t
vo rs in as fre s h and sim p le a m anner as possible.
th e fu ll spe ctru m .
restaurant desserts Use th e c o n tra s t ta b le to help cre a te a re s ta u ra n t menu.
o f th e w o rk area, as w e ll as its lo ca tio n in re la tio n to
It w ilt help keep every p la te fre sh , d iffe re n t, and original.
th e ovens, re frig e ra to rs , and fre e ze rs, d e te rm in e how
Rem em ber th a t som e d e sse rts w ill n o t be p ra c tic a l be
ce rta in jo b s are accom plished. Keep o fte n -u s e d item s
cause o f you r p a rtic u la r kitch e n setup.
w ith in easy reach and easy to see. Keep e ffic ie n t w o rk
A re s ta u ra n t menu should change w ith every season; however, you w ill alw ays have a fe w ite m s th a t rem ain
flo w in m ind, t o o — as on th e line in th e kitchen, plates should move in a single d ire c tio n .
co n sta n t, w ith only th e garnish changing. M a in ta in in g
Keep sauces in p la s tic squeeze b o ttle s or a fun nel
se a so n a lity w ith you r menu w ill keep b e tte r co sts as
dropper. These give you m ore c o n tro l over the am ount
w ell as b e tte r fla v o rs . It w ill also make m a rke tin g easier,
and lo ca tio n o f th e sauce on th e p la te or d e sse rt and
as th e fre s h e s t ite m s w ill have the b e st fla v o rs and w ill
make it easy to s to re th e sauces a t th e s ta tio n .
appeal m ore to th e custo m e rs. Use specials to h ig h lig h t in g re d ie n ts a t th e ir seasonal peak. A good b a ro m e te r
plated desserts
n e cessa rily a good th in g . It is also im p o rta n t to be aw are
To keep th e s ta tio n clean and san itary, have a con ta in e r o f s a n itiz in g s o lu tio n available, as w e ll as clean
fo r th e success o f a d e s s e rt is how w e ll it sells, b u t also
clo th s o r pa pe r to w e ls and h o t w a te r to w ipe pla te s be
keep in m ind th a t ite m s th a t d o n't sell w e ll may have a
fo re th e y leave th e s ta tio n .
po or place m ent o r w o rd in g on th e menu; i f th o se are co rre cte d , an ite m th a t used to be p ro b le m a tic could becom e one o f th e b e s t sellers. A key in g re d ie n t to th e success o f any d e s s e rt menu is th e p re se rvice m ee ting . You have to make th e w a ite rs aw are o f you r fo o d . They should hear ab o u t it and ta s te it to becom e excite d ab o u t it. O fte n ite m s th a t sell w ell are fa v o rite s o f th e w a it s ta ff.
PLATING FROZEN DESSERTS Frozen d e sse rts are an im p o rta n t com ponent o f any d e s s e rt menu. W hile fro z e n de sse rts are com m only used as c o m p le m e n ta ry com p on ents o f variou s pla te d des se rts, th e y can also serve as th e main com ponent. They can be produced in many and va ried fla v o rs , are suita ble fo r use w ith d iffe re n t ty p e s o f con tain ers, such as tu ile
DESSERT STATION MISE EN PLACE
cookies o r m olded cho colate cups, and can be m olded in any v a rie ty o f fo rm s . They w o rk w e ll in an endless num
When s e ttin g up a d e s s e rt s ta tio n , w h e th e r f o r a large
ber o f com b in ation s. O f course, succe ssful pla te d frozen
banq ue t kitch e n o r a sm all re s ta u ra n t, th e re are several
d e sse rts re ly on co n ve n ie n tly lo ca te d fre e z e r space fo r
im p o rta n t co n sid e ra tio n s. The size and co n fig u ra tio n
sto ra g e and service.
plated desserts at banquets In m o s t cases, any d e s s e rt th a t can be pre pa red
re s tric tio n s may im m e d ia te ly becom e ap pa rent. Lack
and served f o r te n can also be served f o r a hundred.
o f e q u ip m e n t (n o t enough o f a p a rtic u la r m old, f o r ex
Flowever, f o r la rg e r-vo lu m e p la tin g , th e ch e f m ust con
am ple) m ig h t fo rc e you to change th e shape o r look o f a
sid e r eq uipm ent, storag e, tim in g o f service, and labor. When planning a d e s s e rt f o r a banq ue t menu, con sid er th e general con cep t o f th e de ssert. C e rta in
de sse rt. T im in g can so m e tim e s be a re s tric tiv e elem ent f o r p re p a ra tio n s, and in som e cases you may w a n t to re fo rm u la te th e d e s s e rt to increase its sh e lf life.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1133
Makes12servings
plated dessert recipes
Warm Date Spice Cake with Butterscotch Sauce, and Cinnamon Ice Cream
Cinnamon Ice Cream
Makes12servings 8 o z/2 2 7 g milk 8 o z/2 2 7 g heavy cream '/2 o z /1 4 g glucose '/♦ tsp /1 g salt 1 cinnamon stick
COMPONENTS
V* ts p /0 .5 0 g ground cinnamon
Date Spice Cake (page 1137)
3V2 o z /9 9 g sugar
Caramelized Apples (page 1138)
8 egg yolks
Butterscotch Sauce (page 1137) Orange-Scented Creme Chantilly (page 1138) Phyllo Tubes (page 1137) Cinnamon Ice Cream (recipe follows) Apple Chips (page 11 36 ) Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks (page 1136)
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates. 2 .W armthecakesina350°F/i77°Covenuntilheated
through,about2minutes. 3. Rew armorpreparethecaramelizedapples. 4 . Spoon2oz/57g°fthesauceintothecenterofeach plate.Placeacakeontopofthesauce. 5.Arrangefivepiecesofcaram elizedapplearound eachplate. 6. PipethecremeChantillyintothepreparedphyllo tubesandplacetwoontopofeachcake. 7. Placeascoopoficecreamonthecenterofthetubes andtopwithanapplechip.Leanachocolatecinna monstickagainstthedessert.
1. Inam ediumsaucepan,combinethemilk,cream,
glucose, salt,cinnamonstick,groundcinnamon,and about1V2oz/43g°fthesugar. Bringtoaboilover mediumheat. Removefromtheheat,cover,andlet steepfor5minutes. 2 . Inam ediumbowl,mixtheremainingsugarwiththe eggyolksuntilwellcombined. 3. Graduallypourhalfofthem ilkmixtureintotheegg yolkmixture,whiskingconstantly. 4 . Returnallingredientstothesaucepanandcontinue tocook,stirringconstantly,overmediumheatuntil themixturethickenstonappeconsistency. 5. Strainthem ixturethroughafine-meshstrainerinto abain-marie. Chillinanicewaterbathuntiltheice creambaseisbelow40°F/4°C. 6. Letthebaserest,refrigerated,overnight. 7. Churninanicecreamm akeraccordingtomanufac turer’sinstructions. 8. Storetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursorover night.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1135
The finished apple chips w ill be fu lly dehydrated, crisp, and
Tempered chocolate is form ed to mimic a cinnamon stick.
easy to remove from the Silpat.
Apple Chips M akes 12 servings 2 apples, peeled, sliced '/i6 in /1.50 mm thick
M akes 12 servings
Lemon juice, as needed
V2 ts p /2.50 mL vegetable oil
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g melted milk chocolate
5 fl o z/1 5 0 mL water
Ground cinnamon, as needed to coat
1 . Spreadtheslicedapplesonasheetpanandbrush
themwithlemonjuice. 2 . Inam ediumpot,bringthesugarandwatertoasim merovermediumheat. Simmeruntilthesugaris dissolved. 3. H eatthesyrupuntilitregistersi8o°F/82°Conan instant-readthermometer.Addtheappleslicesand poachuntilsoft, about30seconds. 4 . Useaspidertorem ovetheapplesfromthesyrup andtransferthemtosheetpanlinedwithaSilpat. Arrangetheslicesinasinglelayer. 5. Drytheapplesinai8o°F/82°Covenovernight. Store inanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice. NOTE: For faster drying, the chips can also be dried in a 200°F/93°C oven fo r 1 t o 2 hours.
1136
Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks
B A K IN G A N D P A S T R Y
1. Stirtheoilintothem eltedchocolateuntilfully
combined. 2 .H eatasheetpanina200°F/93°Covenuntilslightly warm,about30seconds. 3. Spreadthechocolateontothebackofthesheetpanin athin,evenlayer. 4 . Placethesheetpaninthefreezerfor30m inutes,then intherefrigeratorfor15minutes. 5. Rem ovethepanfromtherefrigerator,andletitsitat roomtemperatureuntilthechocolatebecomespliable. 6. Makecinnamonstickshapesusingabenchknife: Holdthebenchknifeata45-degreeangleandrollthe chocolatetothemiddleofthesheetpan.Repeatthis motionacrossthechocolate,thenturnthesheetpan aroundandrepeatintheoppositedirectionsothatthe twotubeswillmeetinthecentertofinishthecinna monstickshape. 7. Rollthefinishedsticksingroundcinnam ontocoat.Re serveinanairtightcontaineruntilneededforservice.
Phyllo Tubes
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g pitted dates, finely diced
2 sheets phyllo dough
2 tb s p /3 0 m L brandy
M elted butter, as needed
1VAo z/3 1 9 g butter 1 lb I V 2 o z /4 9 6 g dark brown sugar 3/tts p /2 .5 0 g s a lt 7 eggs
1. Brushonesheetofphyllow ithmeltedbutter,and
gentlyplacetheotherpieceofphylloontop.Brush thesurfaceofthetopsheetwithbutter. 2 . Cutthephyllointostrips2Vi by V in/6by17cm . W rapeachphyllostriparoundasmallcannolitube. 3. Bakethephyllotubesina375°F/i9i°Covenuntil goldenbrown,4to6minutes. Coolcompletely.Re servethetubesinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded forservice. 6
Vi o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
&Ao z/1 7 7 g sour cream 1 lb VAo z/4 9 6 g all-purpose flour VAts p /5.25 g baking powder '/2 tsp /1 g ground cinnamon 'A ts p /0 .5 0 g ground allspice
1. Inasm allbowl,tossthedateswiththebrandy.Set
aside. 2 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe paddle,creamthebutter,brownsugar,andsaltuntil lightandfluffy,4to5minutes. 3.A ddtheeggsgradually,scrapingdownthebowlwell aftereachadditiontomakesurethebatterishomo geneous.Addthevanillaandsourcreamandmix untilfullyincorporated. 4 . Gentlyaddtheflour,bakingpow der,cinnamon,and allspice,mixingjustuntilincorporated. 5. Rem ovethebowlfromthemixerandusearubber spatulatogentlyfoldthedatesintothebatter. 6. Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper. Pour thebatterintothepreparedpanandspreaditevenly across. Bakeina325°F/i62°Covenuntillightly browned,25to30minutes. Letcoolcompletely. 7. Cutthecakeusinga3-in/8-cmring.Setaside.The cakemaybestoredinanairtightcontaineratroom temperature,orwrappedandfrozenforlateruse.
2
plated dessert recipes
Date Spice Cake
Butterscotch Sauce M akes 12 servings 12 o z/3 4 0 g dark brown sugar 8 o z/2 2 7 g butter 6 o z/1 7 0 g heavy cream
2 V 2 o z/7 1 g corn syrup 1 ts p /3 g salt
'A o z/7 g vanilla extract
1. Inam ediumsaucepot,combinethebrownsugar,
butter, cream,cornsyrup,andsalt. Bringthemix turetoasimmerovermediumheat. 2 . Continuesim mering,stirringoccasionally,untilthe saucethickensslightly,2to4minutes. 3. Rem ovefromtheheatandstirinthevanilla.Letcool andreserverefrigerateduntilneededforservice.
Chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1137
Orange-Scented Creme Chantilly
Caramelized Apples M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 o z/2 8 g butter
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
14 apples, peeled, tourneed
2 tb sp /1 4 g orange zest
3 o z /8 5 g sugar
1 o z/2 8 g confectioners' sugar
Pinch salt 2 tb s p /3 0 mL Calvados
Inthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire whip,whipthecreamandzestonmedium-high speeduntilthickened. Graduallyaddthesugarandcontinuetowhipuntil thecreamholdssoftpeaks. Transferthecreamtoanairtightcontainerorpiping bagandreserve,refrigerated,untilneededforservice.
1.M eltthebutterinalargesautepanovermedium
heat.Addtheapplesandsauteuntiltheybeginto becometender, 3to4minutes. 2 .A ddthesugarandsaltandincreasetheheattohigh. Continuetocookuntilthesugarcaramelizes,5to6 minutesmore. 3. Deglazethepanw iththeCalvados.Removethe applesfromtheheat. Letcoolcompletelybefore storingintherefrigeratorinanairtightcontainer. NOTE: The apples must be rewarmed prior to serving, or they can be made a la minute.
BAKING AND PASTRY
M akes 12 servings
plated dessert recipes
Blackberry and P o rtPoached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears M akes 12 servings
6 Forelle pears 10 o z/2 8 4 g water 10 o z/2 8 4 g Ruby port 10 o z/2 8 4 g blackberry puree
COMPONENTS Ricotta Cream (page 1140) Sable Cookies (page 1140) Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears (recipe follows)
1 o z/2 8 g lemon juice lt b s p / 9 g lemon zest
8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped Vi cinnamon stick
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates. 2 . Scoopaquenelleofthecreamatadiagonalontothe
edgeofeachplate. 3. Placeacookieatanangleontheoppositeendof eachplate. 4 . Thinlyslicethepearsw ithaparingknife,leaving themattachedatthestemsothattheycanbefanned out. 5. Spoonsom eofthepoachingliquidontoeachplate, andtopwithapearhalf.
2 tb s p /1 8 g cornstarch
1. Peelthepearsandcutinhalflengthw ise. Remove
thecorewithamelonbailer. 2 .Com binethewater,port,blackberrypuree,lemon juiceandzest,sugar,vanillabeanandseeds,andcin namonstickinalargesaucepanovermediumheat andplacethepearsintotheliquid. 3. Coverw ithparchmentpaper,weighthepearsdown iftheyfloat,andkeeptheliquidjustbelowasimmer untilthepearsaretender,30to40minutes. 4 . Coolthepearsinthepoachingliquid,andstorein thepoachingliquid,refrigerated,forupto3days. 5. Straintheliquidintoasaucepanandbringtoasim merovermediumheat. Putthecornstarchinasmall bowlandaddjustenoughwatertomakeathin, runnypaste. Stirringconstantly,addsomeofthehot liquidtothestarchmixturetotemperit. 6. Beginstirringtheliquidinthepotandaddthetem peredslurry.Stirgentlyandsimmeruntilitreaches alightnappeconsistency.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1139
Sable Cookies
Ricotta Cream
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g butter
8 o z/2 2 7 g ricotta cheese
91/2 o z/2 69 g confectioners' sugar
8 o z/2 2 7 g Pastry Cream (page 1099)
2 ts p /6 .5 0 g s a lt
4 o z/1 1 3 g cream cheese
V 2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
1 ts p /5 mL vanilla extract
2 3/ t o z/7 8 g egg yolks
2 o z /5 7 g s u g a r
1 lb l l o z / 7 6 5 g all-purpose flour
l t s p / 3 g lemon zest
Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
Pinch salt
Sanding sugar, as needed
8 o z/2 2 7 mL heavy cream
1. Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththe
paddle,creamthebutter,sugar,salt,andvanillaon mediumspeedfor5minutes. 2 .Graduallyaddtheeggyolks, scrapingw ellaftereach addition. 3.A ddtheflourandmixonlowspeeduntilitisjust combined. 4 . Onalightlyflouredsurface,rollthedoughouttoV2 in/icmthick.Transfertoaparchment-linedsheet panandchilluntilfirm. 5. Eggw ashthecookiesandsprinklelightlywithsand ingsugar. 6. Bakethecookiesina375°F/i9i°Covenuntiljustset, 20to25minutes. 7. Letthecookiescoolslightly,thenuseaserrated knifetocutintorectangles1by3in/3by8cm. 8. Returnthecutcookiestothebakingsheetandbake untillightlygolden,5to10minutesmore.Allowthe cookiestocoolcompletelyandstoreinanairtight containeratroomtemperatureuntilneeded.
1140
BAKING AND PASTRY
l '/2 sheets gelatin
1.M ixthericotta,pastrycream,creamcheese,vanilla,
sugar,zest,andsaltuntilsmooth. 2 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks.Reserve. 3. Bloomthegelatinintepidw aterfor3to5minutes. Removethegelatinsheetsfromthewaterand squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Combinethegelatin with4oz/113gofthecheesemixture. 4 .H eatthegelatin-cheesemixtureinadoubleboiler oversimmeringwateruntilitregisters130°F/54°C onaninstant-readthermometer. Removefromthe heatandaddtheremainingcheesemixturetocool slightly. 5. Gentlyfoldinthecream . Reservethemixturein anairtightcontainer, refrigerated,untilneededfor service.
M akes 12 servings
plated dessert recipes
Lemon Souffle Tart w ith Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote
Basil Ice Cream M akes 2V2 qts/2.40 L
BASIL PUREE 5 o z/1 4 2 g basil leaves Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed ICECREAM
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g milk COMPONENTS
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream Lemon Curd (page 1145) l ' / 2 o z / 4 3 g glucose Tartlet Shells (page 1144) Pinch salt Fresh blueberries 1 0 '/2 o z /2 9 8 g sugar Common Meringue (page 1024)
2 2 egg yolks Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting
6 o z /1 7 0 g Basil Puree (above) Basil Sauce (page 1145)
1.Tom akethebasilpuree,bringasmallpotofwater
Blueberry Compote (page 1145) Basil Ice Cream (recipe follows) Tuiles (page 11 44 )
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates. 2.. Spread oz/7glem oncurdinthebaseofeachtart V4
shell. Placeafewblueberriesontop. 3. Foreachtart, m akeacommonmeringuewith oz/14geggwhitesand oz/14gsugar.Gentlyfoldit intotheremaininglemoncurdandmoundthemix tureinthetartshells. 4 . Dustthetopofeachtartw ithconfectioners’sugar. Bakeina400°F/204°Covenuntillightlygoldenand puffed,about8minutes. 5. Letthetartscoolfor1m inutebeforeremovingthem fromthepan. 6. Spoonbasilsauceinaringaroundtheedgeofeach plate. Placeatartinthecenterofeachplate. Spoon someblueberrycompoteonthesideandaddascoop ofthebasilicecream.Finisheachplatewithatuile. V2
V2
toaboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewater bath. 2 .Blanchthebasilintheboilingw aterfor20sec onds. Shockinanicewaterbath,drain,and squeezetoremoveexcesswater. 3.Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasil leaveswithenoughsimplesyruptomakethemix turesmooth. 4 .Reserve,covered,untilyouarereadytom akethe icecream. 5.Tom aketheicecream,combinethemilk,cream, glucose,salt,and5Vioz/155gofthesugarinamedi umsaucepan.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat. 6. Inamediumbowl,combinetheremainingsugar withtheeggyolks,mixinguntilfullycombined. 7.W henthemilkmixturereachesasimmer, slowly poursomeintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyto tempertheyolkmixture. 8. Returnalloftheingredientstothesaucepanand continuetocookovermediumheat,stirringcon stantly,untilthemixturethickenstoanappe consistency. 9 .Straintheicecreambasethroughafine-m esh strainer,andplaceimmediatelyintoanicewa terbath.Chilluntiltheicecreambaseisbelow 40°F/4°C.
continued
c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DES SE R TS
1 143
10 .Stirinthebasilpureejustbeforechurning.Churn
inanicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufac turer’sinstructions. 11 .Placetheicecreaminanairtightcontainerinthe freezeruntilsolidenoughtoscoop,8hoursor overnight.
NOTE: This puree must be made the same day as the ice cream w ill be churned so that it maintains its flavor and
Tuiles M akes 2 lb 4 0 z h .0 2 kg batter 93/ t o z/2 7 6 g confectioners' sugar 9 o z/2 5 5 g all-purpose flour Pinch salt
8 o z/2 2 7 g butter, soft 4!/t o z/1 2 0 g egg whites, room temperature
color. 5 3/t o z / 1 6 3 g honey
V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
Tartlet Shells M akes 12 tart shells 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g 1-2 -3 Cookie Dough (page 1086) Egg Wash (page 1023), as needed
1. Onaflouredsurface, rolloutthedoughtoVsin/3
mmthick.Cutthedoughinto4-in/io-cmrounds. 2.. Placetw elve3-in/8-cmtartpansonaparchmentlinedbakingsheet. Gentlypressthedoughintothe tartpans.Refrigerateuntilthedoughisfirm. 3. Lineeachshellw ithroundsofparchmentandfill withpieweights. 4 . Bakethetartshellsina375°F/i9i°Covenuntilthe shellsbegintoset, 10to15minutes. 5. Rem ovetheweightsandparchmentfromtheshells andbrushlightlywitheggwash.Continuetobake untilgolden,about10minutesmore. 6. Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature untilneededforservice.
1. Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad
dle,combinethesugar,flour,andsalt. 2 .A ddthebutterandapproximatelyone-quarterof theeggwhitesandmixonlowspeeduntilasmooth, thickpasteforms. 3.A ddthehoneyandmixuntilcombined.Gradually addtheremainingeggwhitesandthevanilla,mixing justtocombine. 4 . Coverthebatterinanairtightcontainerandreserve, refrigerated,untilreadytobake. 5. Preheattheovento375cF/i9i°C.Spreadthebatter intostripsViby4in/iby10cmindiameterona sheetpanandbakeuntilgolden,about15minutes. Allowtocoolforamomentonthepan,thenremove thecookiesandallowtocoolcompletelyonracks. 6. Storeatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainer. NOTES: It is im portant that the b u tte r and egg whites be at room temperature. If they are too cold, the batter will separate. This b a tte r can be made up to a week in advance. It can be warmed in the microwave, if necessary, to bring it back to spreadable consistency.
1144
BAKING AND PASTRY
Blueberry Compote
Makes12servings
Makes12servings
2 bunches basil, leaves only
1 lb /4 5 4 g blueberries
Corn syrup, as needed
1 tb sp /9 g lemon zest
1. Bringasm allpotofwatertoaboilovermedium
heat. Prepareanicewaterbath. 2 . Blanchthebasilintheboilingw aterfor20seconds. Shockintheicewaterbath,drain,andsqueezeto removeexcesswater. 3. Inablenderorfoodprocessor,pureethebasilleaves withenoughcornsyruptomakeasmoothsauce. Adjusttheconsistencywithcornsyrupasnecessary. 4 . Reserve, covered,untilneededforservice. Lemon Curd
Makes12servings 8 o z/2 2 7 g eggs 9 o z /2 5 5 g s u g a r
2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice Sugar, as needed
1. Inasm allsaucepan,combine12oz/340gofthe
blueberrieswiththelemonzest,juice, andenough watertojustcover. 2 . Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat. Continuetocook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheber riesaresoft,4to5minutes. 3. Rem ovefromtheheatandstirinsugartotaste.Cool completely. 4 . Inafoodprocessororblender,pureethesauceuntil smooth.Strainthesaucethroughafine-meshstrain erandadjusttheconsistencywithwaterifnecessary. 5. Reserve,covered,untilneededforservice. Fold intheremaining4oz/113gblueberriesjustbefore
plated dessert recipes
Basil Sauce
12 o z/3 4 0 g butter, cut into small cubes
6 V 2 o z/1 8 4 g lemon juice l t b s p /9 g lemon zest
'A o z/7 g cornstarch Pinch salt
1. Inam ediumheatproofbowl,whisktogetherthe
eggsandsugaruntilwellcombined. 2 .A ddtheremainingingredientsandplacethebowl overamediumsaucepanofsimmeringwater. 3. Continuetocook,w hiskingfrequently,untilthe mixtureisthickandregistersi85°F/85°Conan instant-readthermometer. 4 . Strainthecurdthroughafine-m eshstrainerintoa hotelpan.Coverthecurddirectlywithplasticwrap andrefrigerateuntilchilled.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1145
Key Lime Tart M akes 12 servings COMPONENTS Creme Chantilly (recipe follows) Key Lime Tart (recipe follows) Strawberry Coulis (recipe follows)
2 . Stirinthelim ejuice. Mixuntilwellblended,butdo
notovermix. 3. Pourthefillingintothepreparedcrustandbakein 300°F/i49°Covenuntilthecustardisset,about10 minutes. 4 . Letthetartcooltoroomtem perature,thenwrap andfreezeovernight. Thefillingwillhaveatexture similartocheesecake.
Limes
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12plates. 2 . Evenlyspreadalayerofcrem eChantillyonthesur
faceofthetart. Cutthetartinto12evenpieces. 3. Placeonetartsliceontoeachplateandspoonsom e strawberrycoulisontoeachplate. 4 Spoonaquenelleofcrem eChantillyontoeachslice ofthetartandtopwithatwistedwheeloffreshlime.
Graham Cracker Crust M akes g 3A OZI276 g 6 o z/1 7 0 g graham cracker crumbs 3 o z/8 5 g melted butter 3/ t o z /2 1 g sugar Pinch salt
.
Creme Chantilly M akes 16 fl oz/480 mL
1. Com bineallingredientsinamediumbowl.Pressthe
crustevenlyintoaio-in/25-cmtartpan. 2 . Bakeina325°F/i63°Covenuntilthecrusthasset andisslightlybrowned,about12minutes.Allowthe crusttocoolcompletelybeforefilling.
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream 2 o z/5 7 g confectioners' sugar
V2 o z/1 4 g vanilla extract
1. Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththewire
whip,whipthecreamtosoftpeaks. 2 .A ddthesugarandvanillaandcontinuetowhipuntil thecreamreachesmediumpeaks. Reserve,refriger ated,untilneededforservice. Key Lime Tart M akes 12 servings 1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g sweetened condensed milk 5 '/t o z/1 49 g eggs
2'A o z/6 6 g egg yolks 6 o z/1 7 0 g Key lime juice Graham Cracker Crust (recipe follows)
1 . Inalargebow l,combinethecondensedmilk,eggs,
andyolks.
Strawberry Coulis M akes 16 oz/454 g 1 lb /4 5 4 g strawberries 8 o z/2 2 7 g sugar 2 tb s p /3 0 mL lemon juice
1. Com binethestrawberries,4oz/113g°fthesugar,
and1tbsp/15mLofthelemonjuiceinamedium nonreactivesaucepan.Allowthefruittomacerate for20to30minutes. 2 . Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat,stir ringuntilthesugarhasdissolved,about10minutes. Puree. 3. Strainthecoulisthroughafine-m eshstrainer.Ad justtheflavorwiththeremainingsugarandlemon juice. Storethecoulisinanairtightcontaineruntil neededforservice. NOTE: If desired, add a slurry made o f 2 tbsp/30 mL water and V 2oz/1 4 g cornstarch per 16 f I oz/4 80 mL o f coulis to the sauce to thicken it. Bring the coulis to a boil, gradually whisk in the slurry, and bring back to a boil. Cool com pletely before using.
1146
BAKING AND PASTRY
Key Lime Tart
plated dessert recipes
Mango and PassionPoached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet
3. Placethem ixtureoveralargepotofsimmeringwa terandcookuntiltender, 1V2to2hours. 4 . Rem ovefromtheheat, addthebananaslices,cover,
andrefrigeratethemixtureovernight. Cilantro Sorbet
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
COMPONENTS
SORBET SYRUP
Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple (recipe follows)
12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar
Coconut Flans (page 1150)
8 o z/2 2 7 g water
Cilantro Sorbet (recipe follows)
2 o z /5 7 g glucose
Coconut Chips (page 1150)
SORBET 1 lb 4 o z/5 6 7 g cilantro, leaves only
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12bow ls. 2 . Rem ovethepineapplefromtheliquidandreserve.
Straintheliquidandadjusttheconsistencywithwa terifnecessary. 3. Gentlyunm oldtheflans,andplacetowardtheback ofeachbowl. 4 . Pourabout4oz/113g°fthepoachingliquidinto eachbowl,andplaceawedgeofpineappleinfront oftheflan. 5. Scoopaquenelleofsorbetontopofeachflanand topwithacoconutchip. Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple M akes 12 portions
1 pineapple 12 o z/3 4 0 g mango puree 4 o z/1 1 3 g passion fru it puree
6 o z/1 7 0 g water 3/ f oz/21 g lime juice
6 o z/1 7 0 g sugar 1 banana, sliced
1. Trimthepineappleandcutinto12w edges. 2 . Placethepineappleinalargeheatproofbow lwith
1 lb 6 V 2 o z /6 3 8 g water 6 'A o z / l l l g stabilizer I V 2 ts p /7 .5 0 g sugar 3 3/ t o z/1 0 6 g lime juice
1. Inam ediumsaucepan,bringalltheingredientsfor
thesorbetsyruptoaboil. 2 . Coverthesyrupandreserve, refrigerated,untilready tomakethesorbet. 3. Tom akethesorbet,bringamediumpotofwaterto aboilovermediumheat. Prepareanicewaterbath. 4 . Blanchthecilantroleavesintheboilingw aterfor 20seconds. Shockintheicewaterbathanddrain, squeezingtoremoveexcesswater. 5.W eighthecilantroleavesandaddenoughofthewa tertoequal22%oz/638g. 6. Pureethewaterandcilantrountilsmooth.Trans ferthemixturetoalargebowl.Addtheremaining waterandthe oz/517gsorbetsyrupandstirto combine. 7. Inasm allbowl,combinethestabilizer,sugar,and limejuice. Graduallyblendintothecilantromixture usinganimmersionblender. 8. Churnthesorbetinanicecreammachineaccording tomanufacturer’sinstructions. 9 . Placethesorbetinanairtightcontainerandfreeze untilfirmenoughtoscoop,8hoursorovernight. 18V4
thefruitpurees,water, limejuice, andsugar.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1149
Coconut Chips
Coconut Flans
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
1 fresh coconut
1 lb /4 5 4 g sugar
Simple syrup (page 1023), as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g water
Splitthecoconutinhalfbyhittingallaroundits equator. Placethetwohalvesonasheetpanandbakeina 350°F/i77°Covenuntiltender,30to40minutes. Letthecoconutcoolcompletely,thenprytheflesh loosefromtheshell.Useavegetablepeelertomake 12half-moonslicesofcoconut. Bringsomesimplesyruptoagentlesimmerover mediumheat.Addthecoconutslicesandcontinue tosimmerfor5minutes. Removefromtheheatand letthecoconutcoolinthesyrupovernight. LineasheetpanwithaSilpat. Placethecoconut ontothesheetpanandbakeat300°F/i49°Cuntil goldenbrown. Storethecoconutchipsinanairtightcontainerat roomtemperatureuntilneededforservice.
4 o z/1 1 3 g corn syrup 1 lb 5 o z/5 9 5 g sweetened condensed milk 1 lb 2 o z/5 1 0 g unsweetened coconut milk 4 eggs 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract Pinch salt
1. Inam ediumpot,combinethesugarandwater.
Bringtoaboil, stirringconstantly. 2 .A ddthecornsyrupandcontinuetocook,without stirring.W ashdownthesidesofthepotoccasionally withwaterandapastrybrushtoavoidcrystallization. 3. Continuetocookuntilam ediumcaramelforms. Removefromtheheatandpourenoughintoeachof 12ramekinstocoverthebase. Reserve. 4 . Inalargebow l,whisktogetherthecondensed milk,coconutmilk,eggs,vanilla,andsaltuntilwell combined. 5. Dividethem ixtureevenlyamongthecaramel-coatedramekins. Placetheramekinsinahotelpanand fillthehotelpanwithenoughwarmwatertocome atleasthalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins. 6. Baketheflansina325°F/i63°Covenuntilthecus tardhasset,30to35minutes. 7. Refrigeratetheflansatleast4hoursbeforeunm old ingfromtheramekins. NOTE: The flan can be stored in the ramekins fo r up to 3 days before unmolding.
B A K IN G AN D PASTRY
Graham Cracker Ice Cream
M akes 12 servings
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
COMPONENTS
1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g m i lk
Graham Cracker Crust for S’mores (page 1152)
1 lb 1 4 o z / 8 5 1 g h e a v y c r e a m
Graham Cracker Ice Cream (recipe follows)
l '/2 o z / 4 3 g g lu c o s e
Marshmallow (page 1152)
5 o z /1 4 2 g g ra h a m c ra c k e r c ru m b s
Classic Caramel Sauce (page 1153)
5V2 o z / 1 5 6
White Sauce (page 1154)
1 v a n i l la b e a n ,
Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)
2 2 e g g y o lk s
Chocolate Beignet Batter (page 1154)
5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r
Oil, as needed for deep frying Chocolate Graham Decor (page 1152) Confectioners' sugar, as needed for dusting
ASSEMBLY
1.Lineabakingsheetw ithparchmentandtopwith
12ringmolds. 2 .PresslAozlj gofthegrahamcrackercrustintothe bottomofeachringmold. 3.Portionthechurnedicecreamintotheringsand freezeovernight. 4 .Rem ovetheicecreamfromtheringsandwrap withmarshmallow.Keepfrozenuntilservice. 5.Prepare12plates. Decoratethecenteroftheplate withthecaramelandwhitesauces. 6. Useablowtorchtotoasttheoutsideofthemarsh mallow. 7.Coatthefrozentrufflesinbeignetbatterandfryin theoilat350°F/i77°Cuntilcookedthrough,3to4 minutes. Removewithaspideranddrainonpaper towels. 8. Placeoneportionofmarshmallow-wrappedice creamoneachplateontopofthesauceswiththe crustdown.Topwithapieceofchocolatedecor. 9 .Dustthebeignetsw ithconfectioners’sugarand placeoneontopofthedecoroneachplate. 10 .Crackthebeignetsopenw ithaparingknifebefore serving.
g d a rk b ro w n s u g a r
split
a n d s e e d s re m o v e d
ts p /1 g salt
plated dessert recipes
S'mores
1. Inam ediumpot,bringthemilk,heavycream,glu
cose, crumbs,brownsugar,andvanillabeantoa simmerovermediumheat. 2 . Inam ediumbowl,whisktogethertheyolks,granu latedsugar,andsaltuntilwellcombined. 3.W henthemilkmixtureissimmering,pouritinan evenstreamintotheyolkmixture,whiskingcon stantly. 4 . Returnthem ixturetothepotandcontinuetocook, stirringconstantly,untilthemixturereachesnappe consistency. 5. Strainthebasethroughafine-m eshstrainerintoa bain-marieinanicewaterbath.Chilluntilthemix tureisbelow40°F/4°C. 6. Churninanicecreammakeraccordingtomanufac turer’sinstructions. 7. Placeinanairtightcontainerandfreezeuntilfirm enoughscoop,8hoursorovernight.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
1151
Chocolate Graham Decor
Marshmallow
M akes 12 servings
M akes 12 servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g melted chocolate, tempered
3/ t o z/21 g powdered gelatin
Graham cracker crumbs, as needed
4 o z/1 1 3 g cold water
Spreadthemeltedchocolateontoparchmentpaper withanoffsetspatulatoaboutVsin/3mmthick. Sprinklegenerouslywithgrahamcrackercrumbs beforethechocolatefullysets. Cuttheslabofchocolateinto21/2-in/6-cmsquares withaparingknife.Topwithanotherpieceofparch mentpaper,andtopwithasheetpantokeepthe decorflatasitsets. Graham Cracker Crust for S'mores M akes 12 servings 10 o z/2 8 4 g graham cracker crumbs 6 o z/1 7 0 g melted butter 4 o z/1 1 3 g brown sugar
Inamediumbowl,combinealltheingredients.Re servethecrustmixtureinanairtightcontaineruntil needed.
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
12 o z/3 4 0 g sugar 6 o z/1 7 0 g glucose 2 o z/5 7 g honey 2 o z/5 7 g invert sugar 3 o z/8 5 g water
V* o z/7 g vanilla extract Confectioners’ sugar, as needed for dusting
1.Lineasheetpanw ithoiledparchmentpaper. 2 .Inasm allbowl,stirthegelatinintothecoldwater
tobloom. 3.Inam ediumsaucepan,cookthesugar,glucose, honey,invertsugar,and3oz/85gwateruntilitreg isters250°F/i2i°Conaninstant-readthermometer. 4 .Pourthesugarm ixtureintothebowlofanelectric mixerfittedwiththewirewhipandallowtocool to212°F/lOO°C. 5.M eltthegelatininadoubleboiler.W henthesugar mixturehascooled,addthegelatinandwhipon highspeeduntilthick,about8minutes. 6. Addthevanillaextractandmixtofullycombine. 7.Spreadthem arshmallowontothepreparedsheet panusingalightlyoiledspatula. 8. Placeanothersheetofoiledparchmentontop ofthemarshmallowandflattenuntilthetopis smoothandeven. 9 .Freezethem arshmallowovernight. 1 0 .D ustthetopofthemarshmallowwithconfection ers’sugaranduseapastrywheeltocutintostrips 1V2by6in/4by15cm . 1 1.Storeatroomtem peratureinanairtightcontainer.
Classic Caramel Sauce
M akes 40 centers
M akes 12 servings
8 3/ t o z/2 4 8 g heavy cream
1 lb 8 o z/6 8 0 g heavy cream
2 3/t o z / 7 8 g glucose
13 o z/3 6 9 g sugar
9 3/ t o z/2 7 6 g bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
10 o z/2 8 4 g glucose
40 tru ffle shells
2'A o z/6 4 g butter, cubed, soft
Melted bittersw eet chocolate, as needed
1. Inasm allpot,bringtheheavycreamandglucoseto
asimmerovermediumheat. 2 . Placethechoppedchocolateinam ediumstainlesssteelbowl.Pourthehotcreammixtureoverthe chocolate. 3. Letthem ixturesitfor1minute,thenstirfromthe middleofthemixturetotheoutside,untilcombined intoasmoothganche. 4 .Transfertoahotelpanandletthem ixturesitfor1 houratroomtemperature. 5. Transferthem ixturetoapipingbagfittedwitha mediumplaintip.Pipethemixtureintothetruffle shells,leavingjustenoughroomatthetoptoclose thetruffleswithmeltedchocolate. Letthefilled trufflessetintherefrigeratorfor1hour. 6. Poursomemeltedchocolateintoapipingbag,and cutasmallholeinthetip.Finisheachtrufflebyclos ingitwithmeltedchocolate. 7. Freezethetrufflecentersuntilcom pletelyfrozen, about2hours.
1 . Placethecreaminasaucepanandbringtoaboil
overmediumheat. Leavethepanoververylowheat tokeepwarm. 2 . Prepareanicew aterbath.Combinethesugarand glucoseinaheavy-bottomedsaucepanandslowly cookovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,untilthe sugarhasdissolved.Stopstirringandcontinueto cooktoagoldencaramel. Removefromtheheatand shockthesaucepanintheicewaterbathtostopthe cooking. 3. Rem ovefromtheicewaterbathandstirthebutter intothecaramel. Carefullystirinthehotcream, mixinguntilfullyblended. 4 . Reserveatroomtem peratureuntilneededforser vice. Forlongerstorage,placeinanairtightcontain erandrefrigerate.W armthesaucebeforeuse.
c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DESSERTS
plated dessert recipes
Beignet Truffle Centers
1153
White Sauce
Chocolate Beignet Batter
M akes 12 servings
M akes 40 beignets
8 o z/2 2 7 g sour cream
9'/2 o z/2 69 g bread flour
3/ t oz/21 g confectioners’ sugar
6'/2 o z /1 8 4 g sugar
'A o z/7 g vanilla extract
3 o z/8 5 g cocoa powder
Heavy cream, as needed
V* o z/7 g baking powder
1. Inasm allbowl,combinethesourcream,sugar,and
vanilla.Stirinheavycreamuntilthemixturereaches athick,honey-likeconsistency. 2 . Storethefinishedsaucerefrigeratedinanairtight containeruntilneededforservice.
l t s p /3 g s a lt
8'/2 o z/2 4 0 g whole milk 7 o z/1 9 8 g e g g s
V/2 o z /4 3 g canola oil 1 tb s p /1 5 mL vanilla extract 40 Beignet Truffle Centers (page 1153)
NOTE: The sauce will thicken slightly under refrigeration. Adjust the consistency w ith additional heavy cream if necessary.
Flour, as needed for dusting
1 . Inthebow lofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepad
dle,combinethebreadflour,sugar,cocoapowder, bakingpowder,andsalt. 2 .A ddthemilk,eggs,oil, andvanillaandcontinueto mixuntilasmoothbatterforms. 3. Transferthem ixturetoanairtightcontainerandlet itrest,refrigerated,overnight. 4 . Coatthetrufflecentersw ithflourbeforedipping intobatter(seeAssembly,page1151).
1154
BAKING AND PASTRY
S'mores (page 1151)
Vanilla Ice Cream
M akes 12 servings
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
COMPONENTS
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
Chocolate Sauce (page 1159)
1 lb /4 5 4 g heavy cream
Caramel Sauce (page 1159)
1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup
White Sauce (page 1154)
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
Chocolate Pate a Choux (page 1160)
' / t t s p / l g salt
Corn Flake Crunch (page 1159)
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
Confectioners’ sugar, as needed for dusting
1 0 3/ t o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks
Vanilla Ice Cream (recipe follows) Coffee Ice Cream (page 1158) Dulce de Leche Ice Cream (page 1158) Chocolate Straws (page 1160)
ASSEMBLY
1. Prepare12bow ls. 2 . Pipealternatingdotsofthechocolate, caram el, and
whitesaucesaroundtheperimeterofeachbowl. 3. Sw irlthesaucestogetherwithatoothpick. 4 . Filleachpateachouxpastryw ithapproximately 1tbsp/15mLofthecornflakecrunch. 5. Dustthereservedpateachouxtopsw ithconfection ers’sugar. 6. Place3pastriesoneachplateandfilleachwitha 3A-il o z/22-mLscoopofthevanilla,coffee, anddulce delecheicecream. 7. Toptheicecreamw ithchocolatesaucetoforma triangle. 8. Finishbyplacingthesugar-dustedtopsbackonto eachprofiteroleandaddingtwochocolatestraws.
1.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe
sugar,thesalt,andthevanillabeanpodandseeds inasaucepan. 2 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat andcook,stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. 3.Rem ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit tosteepfor5minutes. 4 .M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain ingsugar. 5.Rem ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand returnthemixturetoasimmer. 6. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper. 7.Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwiththe remaininghotliquidandstirconstantlyoverme diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour. 9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam inimumof12hours. 10 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe manufacturer’sdirections. 11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.
chapter 36 » P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
plated desserts recipes
P rofiteroles
1157
Coffee Ice Cream
Dulce de Leche Ice Cream
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
M akes 1V2 qt/1.44 L
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 can (14 o z/3 9 6 g) sweetened condensed milk
1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream
1 lb /4 5 4 g milk
1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup
1 lb /4 5 4 heavy cream
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
1 o z/2 8 g corn syrup
2 o z/5 7 g coarsely ground coffee
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar
I/4 ts p /1 g salt
' / i t s p / l gsalt
10 3/ t o z /3 0 5 g egg yolks
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe
sugar,thecoffee,andthesaltinasaucepan. 2 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,7to10minutes.Donotbring themixturetoaboil. 3.Rem ovefromtheheat, coverthepan,andallowit tosteepfor5minutes. 4 .M eanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain ingsugar. 5.Strainthecoffeegroundsfromthem ilkandreturn themixturetoasimmer. 6. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper. 7.Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwiththe remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 8. Straintheicecreambaseintoametalcontainer overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour. 9 .Coverandrefrigerateforam inimumof12hours. 10 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe manufacturer’sdirections. 11 .Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.
BAKING AND PASTRY
1 0 3A o z/3 0 5 g egg yolks
1 .Placethecanofcondensedm ilkinapotandcover
withatleast1in/3cmwater. 2 .Sim merfor4hours,makingsuretokeepthecan coveredwithwater. Storetheunopenedcanat roomtemperatureuntilneeded. 3.Com binethemilk,cream,cornsyrup,halfthe sugar,thesalt, andthevanillabeanpodandseeds inasaucepan. 4 .Bringthem ixturetoasimmerovermediumheat, stirringconstantly,7to10minutes. 5.Rem ovefromtheheat,coverthepan,andallowit tosteepfor5minutes. 6. Meanwhile,blendtheeggyolkswiththeremain ingsugar. 7.Rem ovethevanillapodfromthemilkmixtureand returnthemixturetoasimmer. 8. W hiskone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintothe eggyolks,whiskingconstantlytotemper. 9 .Returntheeggm ixturetothesaucepanwith remaininghotliquid,stirringconstantlyoverme diumheatuntilthemixtureisthickenoughtocoat thebackofaspoon,3to5minutes. 10.Straintheicecreambaseintoam etalcontainer overanicewaterbath,stirringoccasionallyuntilit reaches40°F/4°C,about1hour. 11 .W hileitcools, stirthecontentsofthecondensed milkcanthoroughlyintothehotbase.Coverand refrigerateforaminimumof12hours. 12 .Churninanicecreamm achineaccordingtothe manufacturer’sdirections. 13.Packtheicecreamintostoragecontainersand freezeforseveralhoursorovernightbeforeusing.
Vanilla Caramel Sauce
Makes lib g oz/jog g
Makes 12 servings
2V* o z /6 4 g hazelnuts
13 o z/3 6 9 g heavy cream
2 1/t o z / 6 4 g sugar
1
12 o z/3 4 0 g milk chocolate, finely chopped
Pinch salt
8
V 2 o z/2 41 g corn flakes
vanilla bean, split and scraped
7 o z /1 9 8 g sugar 2 o z/5 7 g water
1 . Place the hazelnuts and sugar in a food processor
5 o z/1 4 2 g corn syrup
and grind until the mixture climbs the walls of the bowl. Scrape down the walls and continue to grind.
1
o z/2 8 g butter, cubed
Repeat this process at least three times, until a smooth-looking paste forms.
2 . Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl over simmering water. Once the chocolate is completely melted, fold in the corn flakes and the hazelnut-sugar mixture.
3 . Spread the mixture thinly on a parchment-lined sheet pan and store in a closed container at room temperature. Reheat for service as needed.
1 . Combine the cream, vanilla bean pod and seeds, and salt. Heat to a simmer over medium heat, cover and
plated dessert recipes
Corn Flake Crunch
allow to steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean pod and reserve.
2 . Combine the sugar and water in a pot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.
3 . Add the corn syrup and continue to cook without stirring until the mixture is a medium caramel color,
Chocolate Sauce Makes 12 servings 5 o z /1 4 2 g s u g a r 8 o z /2 2 7 g w a te r 2 'A
o z /6 4
g corn syrup
about 7 minutes.
4 . Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Slowly whisk in the cream mixture.
5 . Allow to cool slightly before transferring to a serving container. 6 . For longer storage, place in an airtight container and refrigerate. Warm the sauce before use.
2 o z/5 7 g cocoa powder 8
o z /2 2 7 g bittersw eet chocolate, finely chopped
1 . Combine the sugar, water, and syrup in a heavybottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Remove from the heat.
2 . Place the cocoa in a heatproof bowl and add enough of the hot syrup to make a paste, stirring until smooth. Gradually add the remaining syrup and mix until fully incorporated.
3 . Add the chocolate and blend until fully incorporated. 4 . Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer. Store the sauce in an airtight container until needed for service.
c h a p te r 36 » P LA TE D DESSERTS
1159
Chocolate Pate a Choux
Chocolate Straws
Makes
Yield:
12
servings
8 o z/2 2 7 g milk
12
straws
12 o z/3 4 0 g chocolate, melted, tempered
8 o z/2 2 7 g water 8 o z/2 2 7 g butter
1 . Spread tempered chocolate on a marble surface no wider than the width of the tool you will be using to
1 ts p /3 g s a lt
form the straws, or, when the chocolate is somewhat
61/2 o z/1 8 4 g bread flour
set, use the tip of a paring knife to score the choco
V / 2 o z/4 3 g cocoa powder
late into narrow strips. Let the chocolate set briefly.
12V2 o z /3 5 4 g eggs (6 eggs)
2 . Using the same motion as described above, scrape the chocolate into straws. It is important to scrape
1 . Bring the milk, water, butter, and salt to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat and add all the flour and cocoa powder at once. Re turn to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan, about 3 minutes.
2 . Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer and beat briefly on medium speed with a paddle. Add 2 eggs at a time, beating until smooth after each addition.
3 . Place the dough into a piping bag with a no. 5 round tip. Pipe into bulbs 1V2 in/4 cm in diameter onto a parchment-lined baking sheet.
4 . Bake at 36o°F/i82°C until cracks form in the pastry, about 50 minutes.
5 . Allow the pastries to cool to room temperature. 6 . Slice off the top third of each of the baked pastries and reserve the tops and the bottoms to be filled. If storing for later use, the pastry should not be sliced and may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature or frozen for longer storage.
1160
B A K IN G A N D PASTRY
the chocolate with a motion directly parallel to the length of the strip; otherwise, the straws will curl into each other and be difficult to separate.
ppendix Approximate Soaking and Cooking Times for Selected Dried Legumes TYPE
SOAKING TIME
COOKINGTIME
AD ZU KI BEANS
4 hours
1 hour
BLACK BEANS
4 hours
I V 2 hours
BLACK-EYED PEAS*
—
1 hour
CHICKPEAS
4 hours
2 to 2 V i hours
FAVA BEANS
12 hours
3 hours
GREAT NORTHERN BEANS
4 hours
1 hour
KIDNEY BEANS (RED OR W HITE)
4 hours
1 hour
LEN TILS*
—
3 0 to 40 m inutes
LIM A BEANS
4 hours
1 to I V 2 hours
MUNGBEANS
4 hours
1 hour
NAVY BEANS
4 hours
2 hours
PEAS, SPLIT*
—
30 m in utes
PEAS, WHOLE
4 hours
40 m inutes
PIGEON PEAS*
—
30 m inutes
PINK BEANS
4 hours
1 hour
PINTO BEANS
4 hours
1 to I V 2 hours
SOYBEANS
12 hours
3 to 3Vz hours
*Soaking is not necessary.
AP P E N D IX
ll6 l
Cooking Ratios and Times fo r Selected Pasta and Grains TYPE
RATIO OF GRAIN TO LIQUID (CUPS)
APPROXIMATE YIELD (CUPS)
COOKINGTIME
BARLEY, PEARLED
1:2
4
35 to 45 m inutes
BARLEY GROATS
1 :2 V 2
4
50 m in u te s to 1 hour
BUCKWHEAT GROATS (KASHA)
L I 1/? to 2
2
12 to 2 0 m in utes
couscous
l : l lA to I V 2
lY 2 t o 2
5 to 10 m in utes
HOMINY, W HOLE*
1:2 V i
3
2 V i t o 3 hours
H O M IN Y GRITS
1:4
3
25 m in utes
M ILLET
1:2
3
30 to 35 m in utes
OAT GROATS
1:2
2
45 m in u te s to 1 hour
POLENTA, FIRM
1:4
5
35 to 45 m in utes
POLENTA, SOFT
1:5
6
35 to 45 m in utes
RICE, ARBORIO (FOR RISOTTO)
1:3
3
18 to 2 2 m in utes
RICE, BASMATI
1-.1V2
3
2 5 m in utes
RICE, CAROLINA
l- .V A
3
2 5 to 30 m in utes
RICE, CONVERTED
1 :2
4
18 to 20 m inutes
RICE,JASM INE
1:1 V i
3
2 5 m in utes
RICE, LONG-GRAIN, BROWN
1:3
4
40 m in utes
RICE, LONG-GRAIN, W HITE
1:1 V i
3
12 to 15 m in utes
RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, BROWN
1:2 V 2
4
30 to 35 m inutes
RICE, SHORT-GRAIN, W HITE
1:1 to I V 2
3
20 to 30 m in utes
RICE,W ILD
1:4
5
40 to 45 m inutes
RICE, W ILD, PECAN
l- .V A
4
2 0 m in utes
WHEAT BERRIES
1:3
2
1 hour
WHEAT, BULGUR, SOAKED*
1:4
2
2 hours
WHEAT, BULGUR, PILAF*
1:2 V i
2
15 to 20 m in utes
WHEAT, CRACKED®
1:2
3
20 m in utes
+Grain should be soaked b riefly in tepid water, then drained before it is steamed. +Grain should be soaked overnight in cold water, then drained before it is cooked. §Grain may be cooked by covering it w ith boiling water and soaking fo r 2 hours, or by the pila f cooking method.
1162
A P P E N D IX
Weight Measure Conversions U.S.
METRIC
V i OUNCE
7 gram s
V 2 OUNCE
14 gram s
1 OUNCE
2 8 .3 5 gram s
4 OUNCES
1 1 3 gram s
8 OUNCES (V 2 POUND)
2 2 7 gram s
16 OUNCES (1 POUND)
4 5 4 gram s
32 OUNCES (2 POUNDS)
9 0 7 gram s
4 0 OUNCES (2 V 2 POUNDS)
1 .1 3 4 kilo g ra m s
Volume Measure Conversions U.S.
METRIC
1 TEASPOON
5 m illilite rs
1 TABLESPOON
15 m illilite r s
1 FLUID OUNCE (2 TABLESPOONS)
3 0 m illilite r s
2 FLUID OUNCES [lA CUP)
6 0 m illilite rs
8 FLUID OUNCES (1 CUP)
2 4 0 m illilite rs
16 FLUID OUNCES (1 PINT)
4 8 0 m illilite rs
32 FLUID OUNCES (1 QUART)
9 6 0 m illilite r s (0.95 lite r)
1 2 8 FLUID OUNCES (1 GALLON)
3 .8 4 lite rs
These measurements are exact. For ease o f use in the kitchen, the measurements in the recipes are rounded to the nearest whole number.
AP PE N D IX
1163
Temperature Conversions DEGREES CELSIUS (°C)*
32°
0°
0 O
4°
I -J^ O O
60°
O O LO i- H
—1
DEGREES FAHRENHEIT (°F)
66°
16 0°
71°
17 0°
77°
212°
100°
275°
135°
300°
14 9°
325°
16 3°
350°
17 7°
375°
19 1°
400°
204°
425°
218°
450°
232°
475°
246°
500°
260°
^Celsius temperatures have been rounded.
Common Unit Conversions
1164
U.S. MEASURE
VOLUME
VOLUME (FLUID OUNCES)
1 POUND
16 ounces (w e igh t)
Varies by p ro d u c t
1 GALLON
4 q u a rts
1 2 8 flu id ounces
1 QUART
2 p in ts
3 2 flu id ounces
1 PINT
2 cups
16 flu id ounces
1 CUP
16 ta b le sp o o n s
8 flu id ounces
1 TABLESPOON
3 te a sp o o n s
V 2 flu id ounce
A P P E N D IX
Information, Hints, and Tips fo r Calculations 1 ga llo n = 4 q u a rts = 8 p in ts = 16 cups (8 flu id ounces pe r cup) = 1 2 8 flu id ounces 1 f if t h b o ttle = a p p ro x im a te ly I V 2 p in ts o r e x a c tly 2 5 .6 flu id ounces 1 m ea surin g cup holds 8 flu id ounces (a c o ffe e cup ge n e ra lly holds 6 flu id ounces) 1 egg w h ite = 2 flu id ounces (average) 1 lem on = 1 to V-A flu id ounces ju ic e 1 orange = 3 to 3 lA flu id ounces ju ice
to convert ounces and pounds to grams: M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 ; m u ltip ly pounds by 4 5 3 .5 9
to convert Fahrenheit to Celsius: ( ° F - 3 2 ) / 1 . 8 = °C
to convert ounces and pounds to grams: M u ltip ly ounces by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e gram s; d ivid e pounds by 2.2 to d e te rm in e kilo g ra m s
to convert grams to ounces or pounds: D ivide gram s by 2 8 .3 5 to d e te rm in e ounces; d ivid e gram s by 4 5 3 .5 9 to d e te rm in e pounds
to convert fluid ounces to milliliters: M u ltip ly flu id ounces by 3 0 to d e te rm in e m illilite rs
to convert milliliters to fluid ounces: D ivide m illilite rs by 3 0 to d e te rm in e flu id ounces
metric prefixes kilo = 1,0 00 he cto = 100 deka = 10 deci = 1 /1 0 ce n ti = 1 /1 0 0 m illi = 1 /1 0 0 0
converting to common unit of measure: To c o n v e rt m ea sure m ents to a com m on u n it (by w e ig h t o r volum e), use th e c h a rt on th e fo llo w in g page. This in fo rm a tio n is used b o th to c o n v e rt scaled m easurem ents in to p ra c tic a l and e a sy-to -u se re cip e m easures and to d e te rm in e costs.
A P PE N D IX
11
Weights and Measures Equivalents volum e D ash/pinch
less than Vs tea spoo n
3 tea spoo ns
1 ta b le sp o o n (V2 flu id ounce)
2 ta b le sp o o n s
Vb cup (1 flu id ounce)
4 ta b le s p o o n s
V 4 cup (2 flu id ounces)
5 lA ta b le sp o o n s
V 3 cup (2 2/3 flu id ounces)
8 ta b le sp o o n s
V2 cup (4 flu id ounces)
1 0 2/3 ta b le sp o o n s
2/3 cup (5V3 flu id ounces)
12 ta b le sp o o n s
3/4 c u p (6 flu id ounces)
14 ta b le sp o o n s
Vb cup (7 flu id ounces)
16 ta b le sp o o n s
1 cup
1 giU
5 flu id ounces
1 cup
8 flu id ounces (2 4 0 m illilite rs )
2 cups
1 p in t (4 8 0 m illilite rs )
2 p in ts
1 q u a rt (9 6 0 m illilite rs ; approx. 1 lite r)
4 q u a rts
1 g a llo n (3.84 lite rs )
8 qu arts
1 peck (7.68 lite rs )
4 pecks
1 bushel (31 lite rs )
w eight
1166
1 ounce
2 8 .3 5 gram s (round to 28)
16 ounces
1 pound (4 5 3 .5 9 gram s, round to 4 5 4)
1 kilogra m
2.2 pounds
A P P E N D IX
glossary otherw ise special, served when the guests in a restaurant ABALONE: A mollusk w ith a single shell approxim ately 6 in /1 5 cm long and a large, edible adductor muscle. Abalones are generally cut and pounded into steaks before being sauteed or g rille d and have a chewy te x tu re w ith a mild flavor. ABOYEUR: Expediter or announcer; a sta tio n in the kitchen b ri gade system. The aboyeur accepts orders fro m the dining room, relays them to the appropriate sta tio ns o f the kitchen, and checks each plate before it leaves the kitchen. ACID: A substance th a t te s ts lower than 7 on the pH scale. Acids
are seated. The amuse is n o t listed on a menu and is included in the price o f an entree. ANAEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t do not require oxygen to function. ANGEL FOOD CAKE: A type o f sponge cake made w ith o u t egg yolks or other fa ts. Beaten egg whites give it its light and airy structu re . Typically baked in a tube pan. ANTIOXIDANTS: N aturally occurring substances th a t retard the breakdown o f tissues in the presence o f oxygen. May be
have a sour or sharp flavor. A cid ity occurs naturally in many
added to fo o d during processing or may occur naturally. Help
foods, including citru s juice, vinegar, wine, and sour m ilk
to prevent food fro m becoming rancid or discolored due to
products. Acids act as tenderizers in marinades, helping to break down connective tissues and cell walls. ADULTERATED FOOD: Food th a t has been contam inated to the p o in t th a t it is considered u n fit fo r human consumption. AEROBIC BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t require the presence o f oxy gen to function. AIOLI: Garlic mayonnaise, o fte n used as a condim ent w ith fish and meat. In Italian, allio li; in Spanish, aliolio. A LA CARTE: A menu fro m which the patron makes individual
oxidation. ANTIPASTO: L iterally, “ before the meal.” Typically, a p la tte r o f hot or cold hors d'oeuvre th a t may include meats, olives, cheeses, and vegetables. APERITIF: A lig h t alcoholic beverage consumed before the meal to stim ulate the appetite. APPAREIL: A prepared m ixture o f ingredients used alone or in another preparation. APPETIZER: L ight food served before a meal or as the fir s t
selections in various menu categories; each item is priced
course o f a meal. May be hot or cold, plated or served as
separately.
fin g e r food.
A LANGLAISE: French te rm fo r foods th a t have been prepared "in the English way.” Refers to foods th a t have been breaded and frie d , or boiled, or poached. ALBUMEN: The egg white. Makes up about 70 percent o f the egg and contains m ost o f the pro te in in the egg. AL DENTE: L iterally, "to the to o th"; refe rs to an item, such as pasta or vegetables, cooked u n til it is te n de r but s till firm , not soft. ALKALI: A substance th a t te s ts a t higher than 7 on the pH scale. Alkalis are som etim es described as having a slig h tly soapy flavor. Can be used to balance acids. Olives and baking soda are some o f the fe w alkaline foods. ALLUMETTE: Vegetable cut, usually re fe rrin g to potatoes cut into pieces the size and shape o f m atchsticks, Ve in by Vs in by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm. Also called julienne. AMANDINE: Garnished w ith almonds. AMINO ACIDS: The building blocks o f proteins. O f the 20 amino
AQUACULTURE: The farm raising o f fish or shellfish in natural or co n tro lle d marine tanks or ponds. ARBORIO: A high-starch short-grain rice tra d itio n a lly used in the p reparation o f riso tto . AROMATICS: Ingredients such as herbs, spices, vegetables, c it rus fru its , wines, and vinegars used to enhance the fla vo r and fragrance o f food. AROMATIZED WINE: F o rtifie d wine infused w ith any o f a wide va rie ty o f arom atic plants or b itte r herbs, roots, bark, or other plant pa rts (e.g., verm outh). ARROWROOT: A powdered starch made fro m the ro o t o f a tro p i cal plant o f the same name. Used p rim arily as a thickener. Remains clear when cooked. ASPIC: A clear je lly made from stock (or occasionally fr u it or vegetable juice) thickened w ith gelatin. Used to coat foods or cubed and used as a garnish. AS-PURCHASED (AP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item as received
acids in the human diet, 9 are called "essential" because
fro m the supplier before trim m in g or oth er preparation (as
they cannot be produced by the body and m ust be supplied
opposed to e d ib le -p o rtion [EP] weight).
through a person's diet. AMUSE-GUEULE: French fo r "appetizer." Chef’s tasting: a small po rtio n (1 or 2 bites) o f som ething exotic, unusual, or
G LO S S A R Y
1167
b
BAVARIAN CREAM, BAVAROIS: A mousse-like dessert made
BACTERIA: M icroscopic organisms. Some have beneficial prop erties; others can cause food-borne illnesses when foods contam inated w ith them are ingested. BAGUETTE: A loaf o f bread o f French origin, made w ith 12 to
from vanilla sauce fla vo re d w ith a fr u it puree or juice, lig h t ened w ith whipped cream, and stabilized w ith gelatin. BEARNAISE: A classic b u tte r emulsion, sim ilar to hollandaise, made w ith egg yolks, a reduction o f w hite wine, shallots,
16 o z/3 40 to 4 54 g o f dough, shaped into a long, skinny
and tarragon. Also, b u tte r finished w ith tarragon and
loaf th a t ranges fro m 2 to 3 in /5 to 8 cm in diam eter and
chervil.
18 to 24 in /4 6 to 61 cm in length. The dough, made o f flour,
BECHAMEL: A w h ite sauce made o f m ilk thickened w ith a pale
water, salt, and yeast, yields a paper-thin crisp crust and a
roux and flavored w ith w h ite mirepoix. One o f the "grand”
light, airy crumb.
sauces.
BAIN-MARIE: The French te rm fo r a w a te r bath used to cook fo o ds g ently by surrounding the cooking vessel w ith sim m ering water. Also, a set o f cylindrical nesting inserts used to hold foods in a w a te r bath or, w ith a single, long handle, used as a double boiler. Also, steam table inserts. BAKE: To cook food by surrounding it w ith dry heat in a closed environm ent, as in an oven. BAKE BLIND: To p a rtia lly or com pletely bake an unfilled pastry crust by lining it w ith parchm ent and fillin g w ith weights th a t are removed during or a fte r baking. BAKING POWDER: A chemical leavener made w ith an alkaline and an acidic ingredient, m ost commonly sodium bicar bonate (baking soda) and cream o f ta rta r. When exposed to liquid, it produces carbon dioxide gas, which leavens
BENCH-PROOF: In yeast dough production, to allow dough to rise a fte r it has been panned and ju s t before it is baked. BEURRE BLANC: L iterally, "w hite butter." A classic em ulsified sauce made w ith a reduction o f w h ite wine and shallots, thickened w ith whole b u tte r and possibly finished w ith fresh herbs or o th er seasonings. BEURRE FONDU: M elted butter. BEURRE MANIE: L iterally, “kneaded butter.” A m ixture o f equal parts by w eight o f whole b u tte r and flour, used to thicken gravies and sauces. BEURRE NOIR: Literally, "black butter." B u tte r th a t has been cooked to a very dark brown or nearly black. Also, a sauce made w ith browned butter, vinegar, chopped parsley, and capers, usually served w ith fish.
doughs and ba tters. Double-acting baking powder contains ingredients th a t produce tw o leavening reactions: one upon exposure to liquid, the second when heated.
BEURRE NOISETTE: Lite ra lly,"h a ze ln ut butter,” meaning brown butter. Whole b u tte r th a t has been heated u n til browned to a hazelnut color.
BAKING SODA: Sodium bicarbonate, a leavening agent th a t, when combined w ith an acidic ingredient and m oisture, releases carbon dioxide gas and leavens baked goods. BARBECUE: To cook food by g rillin g it over a wood or charcoal fire . O ften a marinade or sauce is brushed on the item dur ing cooking. Also, m eat cooked in th is way. BARD: To cover a naturally lean m eat w ith slabs or strip s o f fa t such as bacon or fa tb ack th a t baste it during roasting or braising. The fa t is usually tie d on w ith butcher’s twine. BARQUETTE: A boat-shaped ta r t or ta rtle t, which may have a sweet or savory fillin g .
BINDER: An ingredient or appareil used to thicken a sauce or hold to g e th e r another m ixture o f ingredients. BISQUE: A soup based on crustaceans or a vegetable puree. It is classically thickened w ith rice and usually finished w ith cream. BIVALVE: A mollusk w ith tw o hinged shells. Examples are clams, scallops, oysters, and mussels. BLANC: A preparation containing water, flour, onion, cloves, a bouquet garni, salt, and lemon juice. Used to cook veg etables such as mushrooms, celeriac, salsify, or cauliflow er to keep them white.
BASTE: To m oisten fo o d during cooking w ith pan drippings, sauce, or oth er liquid. Basting prevents fo o d from drying out.
BLANCH: To cook an item b rie fly in boiling w a te r or hot fa t before fin ish in g or sto rin g it. Blanching preserves the color, lessens strong flavors, and aids in rem oving the peels of
BATCH COOKING: A cooking technique in which a p p ro p ri
some fru its and vegetables.
ately sized quantities o f fo o d are prepared several tim es throughout a service period so th a t a fresh supply o f cooked item s is always available.
BLANQUETTE: A w h ite stew, usually o f veal but sometim es o f chicken or lamb w ith w h ite onions and mushrooms. It is served w ith a sauce th a t has been thickened w ith a liaison.
BAT0N/BAT0NNET: Items cut into pieces somewhat larger than a llum ette or julienne; V4 in by V4 in by 1 to 2 in/ 6 mm by 6 mm by 3 to 5 cm. French fo r "s tick” or “ small stick.”
BLEND: A m ixture o f tw o or more fla vo rs combined to achieve a p a rticu la r fla vo r or quality. Also, to mix tw o or more ingre dients to g e th e r un til combined.
BATTER: A m ixture o f flo u r and liquid, som etim es w ith the in clusion o f o ther ingredients. B atters vary in thickness but are generally sem iliquid and th in n er than doughs. Used in such preparations as cakes, quick breads, pancakes, and
BLINI: A silver do lla r-size yeast-raised buckwheat pancake o riginating in Russia. BLOOM: To hydrate gelatin in liquid before dissolving. Also, the
crepes. Also, a liquid m ixture used to coat foods before
lig h t gray film on the skin o f apples, blueberries, grapes,
deep frying.
and prunes. Also, streaks o f w h ite /g ra y fa t or sugar th a t appear on solid, untem pered chocolate.
1168
G LO S S A R Y
BOIL: To cook fo o d by fu lly im m ersing it in liquid a t the boiling
BROWN STOCK: An amber liquid produced by simmering
point (212°F/100°C).
browned bones and m eat (usually veal or beef) w ith veg etables and arom atics (including caramelized m irepoix and
BORSCHT: A soup origina tin g in Russia and Poland, made from
to m a to puree).
fresh beets and garnished w ith sour cream. May include an assortm ent o f vegetables and /o r meat, and may be served
BRUISE: To p a rtia lly crush a fo o d item in order to release its
hot or cold. BOTULISM: A food-borne illness caused by toxins produced by
flavor. BRUNOISE: A dice cut o f V8-in/3-m m cubes. For brunoise cut,
the anaerobic bacterium C lostridium botulinum .
item s are fir s t cut in julienne, then cut crosswise. For fine brunoise, a V l6 -in /1 .50 -m m cube, cut item s fir s t in fine
BOUCHER: French fo r "butcher."
julienne. BOUILLABAISSE: A hearty fish and shellfish stew flavored w ith tom atoes, onions, garlic, w h ite wine, and saffron. A tra d i
BUTCHER: A chef or purveyor who is responsible fo r breaking down meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. In the brigade
tio n a l specialty o f M arseilles, France.
system, the butcher may also be responsible fo r breading
BOUILLON: French fo r"b ro th .”
m eat and fish item s and o ther mise en place operations
BOULANGER: Baker, sp e cifica lly o f breads and o ther unsweet ened doughs.
involving meat. BUTTER: A sem isolid fa t made by churning cream; must contain
BOUQUET GARNI: A small bundle o f herbs tie d w ith string. Used to fla v o r stocks, braises, and o ther preparations.
a t least 80 percent m ilk fa t. BUTTERCREAM: An icing made o f butter, sugar, and eggs or
Usually contains bay leaf, parsley, thyme, and possibly
custard, used to garnish cakes and pastries. The fo u r types
o th er arom atics wrapped in leek leaves. BRAISE: To cook a food, usually meat, by searing in fa t, then
are Italian, Swiss, French, and German. BUTTERFLYTo cut an item (usually m eat or seafood) and open
sim m ering slowly a t a low tem perature in a small amount o f
o ut the edges like a book or the wings o f a b u tte rfly.
sto ck or another liquid (usually halfway up the m eat item ) in a covered vessel. The cooking liquid is then reduced and
BUTTERMILK: A dairy beverage w ith a slig h tly sour fla vo r sim i lar to th a t o f yogurt. T raditionally the liquid by-product o f
used as the base o f a sauce.
b u tte r churning, now usually made by culturing skim milk. BRAN: The ou ter layer o f a cereal grain; the p a rt highest in fiber. BRANDY: S p irit made by d is tillin g wine or the fe rm ented mash o f fru it. May be aged in oak barrels.
c CAJUN: A hearty cuisine based on French and southern in flu
BRASIER/BRAZIER: A pan designed sp e cifica lly fo r braising th a t usually has tw o handles and a tig h t-fittin g lid. O ften round but may be square or rectangular. Also called a
ences; signature ingredients include spices, dark roux, pork fa t, file powder, green peppers, onions, and celery. Jambalaya is a tra d itio n a l Cajun dish.
rondeau. CALORIE: A unit o f measure o f food energy. It is the amount o f BREAD: A p roduct made o f flour, sugar, shortening, salt, and liquid, leavened by the action o f yeast. Also, to coat food
energy needed to raise the tem perature o f 1 kilogram o f w a te r by 1°C.
w ith flour, eggs, and crumbs before fry in g or baking. CANADIAN BACON: Smoked eye o f the pork loin. Referred to BRIGADE SYSTEM: The kitchen organization system in stitu te d by G eorges-Auguste Escoffier. Each position has a sta tio n
as peameal or back bacon in Canada, Canadian bacon is leaner than slab bacon and purchased precooked.
and w ell-defined responsibilities. CANAPE: An hors d'oeuvre consisting o f a small piece o f bread BRINE: A solution o f salt, water, and seasonings, used to pre serve or m oisten foods. BRIOCHE: A rich yeast dough, tra d itio n a lly baked in a flu te d pan, w ith a d istin ctive to p k n o t o f dough. BRISKET: A cut o f be e f fro m the lower forequarter, best suited fo r long-cooking m ethods such as braising. Corned beef is cured beef brisket. BROIL: To cook fo o d by means o f a radiant heat source placed above it. BROILER: The piece o f equipm ent used to broil foods. BROTH: A fla v o rfu l, arom atic liquid made by sim m ering w ater or stock w ith meat, vegetables, and /o r spices and herbs. BROWN SAUCE: A sauce made fro m a brown stock and arom at ics and thickened by roux, a pure starch slurry, and /o r a reduction; includes sauce espagnole, demi-glace, jus de
or to a st, o fte n cut in a decorative shape, garnished w ith a savory spread or topping. CARAMELIZATION:The process o f browning sugar in the pres ence o f heat. The caram elization o f sugar occurs between 320° and 3 6 0 °F /1 6 0 ° and 182°C. CARBOHYDRATE: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body as a source o f energy. Types are simple (sugars) and com plex (starches and fibers). CARBON DIOXIDE: A colorless, tasteless, edible gas obtained through fe rm e n ta tio n or fro m the com bination o f soda and acid, which acts to leaven baked goods. CARRYOVER COOKING: The heat retained in cooked foods th a t allows them to continue cooking even a fte r removal fro m the cooking medium. Especially im p orta n t to roasted foods.
veau lie, and pan sauces.
G LO S S A R Y
1169
CASING: A syn th etic or natural membrane (if natural, usu
CHEF'S KNIFE: An all-purpose knife used fo r chopping, slicing,
ally pig or sheep intestines) used to enclose sausage
and mincing; its blade is usually between 8 and 14 in/20
forcem eat.
and 36 cm long.
CASSEROLE: A lidded cooking vessel, used in the oven; usually round w ith tw o handles. Also, fo o d cooked in a casserole, o fte n bound w ith a sauce and topped w ith cheese or bread crumbs. CASSOULET: A stew o f w hite beans baked w ith pork or other meats, duck or goose co n fit, and seasonings. CAUL FAT: A fa tty membrane fro m the abdominal cavity o f a pig or sheep, resem bling fine netting; used to bard roasts and pates and to encase sausage forcem eat. CELLULOSE: A complex carbohydrate; the main structu ra l com ponent o f plant cells. CEPHALOPOD: Marine creatures whose te n tacle s and arms are attached d ire c tly to th e ir heads, such as squid and octopus. CHAFING DISH: A m etal dish w ith a heating unit (flam e or elec tric), used to keep foods warm and to cook foods tableside or during b u ffe t service. CHAMPAGNE: A sparkling w h ite wine produced in the Champagne region o f France using three grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. The term is som etim es in co rre ctly applied to o ther sparkling wines. CHARCUTERIE:The preparation o f pork and o ther meat items, such as hams, terrines, sausages, pates, and other forcem eats. CHARCUTIERE:The person who prepares charcuterie items. A la charcutiere, meaning “in the style o f the butcher’s wife," refers to item s (usually grilled meat) th a t are served w ith sauce R obert and finished w ith a julienne o f gherkins. CHATEAUBRIAND: A cut o f meat from the th ick end o f the tenderloin. Traditionally cut th ick and served w ith chateau potatoes and bearnaise sauce. CHAUD-FROID: Literally, "hot-cold." A food prepared hot but served cold as p a rt o f a b u ffe t display, coated w ith brown
CHEF’S POTATO: All-purpose p o tato w ith a thin, speckled skin and waxy flesh. Used mainly fo r sauteing and boiling. CHEMICAL LEAVENER: An ingredient such as baking soda or com bination o f ingredients (baking powder) whose chemi cal action produces carbon dioxide gas. Used to leaven baked goods. CHERRYSTONE: A medium-size (less than 3 in/ 8 cm across the shell) hard-shell clam indigenous to the East Coast o f the United States; may be served raw or cooked. CHIFFON: A cake made by the foam ing method; contains a high percentage o f eggs and sugar and relative ly little , if any, fa t to produce a lig h t and airy cake. CHIFFONADE: Fine shreds o f leafy vegetables or herbs; often used as a garnish. CHILE: The fr u it o f certain types o f capsicum peppers (not related to black pepper), used fresh or dry as a seasoning. Chiles come in many va rietie s (e.g., jalapeno, serrano, poblano) and range in degrees o f spiciness. CHILI: A stewed dish o f beans and /o r meat, flavored w ith chili powder. CHILI POWDER: Ground or crushed dried chiles, o fte n w ith other ground spices and herbs added. CHINE: The backbone. A cut o f m eat th a t includes the back bone. Also, to separate the backbone and ribs to fa c ilita te carving. CHINOIS: A conical sieve w ith fine wire mesh, used to strain foods. CHOLESTEROL: A substance found exclusively in animal prod ucts such as meat, eggs, and cheese (dietary cholesterol) or in the blood (serum cholesterol). CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size. Also, a small cut o f m eat including p a rt o f the rib.
or w hite sauce, then glazed w ith aspic. CHOUCROUTE: Sauerkraut cooked w ith goose fa t, onions, ju n i CHEESECLOTH: A light, fine mesh gauze used fo r straining liquids and making sachets. CHEF DE PARTIE: S tation chef. In the brigade system, these are the line cook positions, such as saucier, grillardin, and
per berries, and w hite wine. Choucroute garni is sauerkraut garnished w ith various meats. CHOWDER: A th ick soup th a t may be made from a va rie ty o f ingredients but usually contains potatoes.
so fo rth . CIGUATERA TOXIN: A toxin found in certain fish (harmless to CHEF DE RANG: F ront w aiter. The w a ite r responsible fo r prop
the fish) th a t causes illness in humans when eaten. The
erly set tables, proper delivery o f foods to a table, and
poisoning is caused by the fis h ’s d ie t and is not eradicated
m eeting the guests' needs. A dem i-chef de rang is a back
by cooking or freezing.
w a ite r or busboy. CIOPPINO: A fish stew usually made w ith w hite wine and to m a CHEF DE SALLE: Headwaiter. Responsible fo r service through out the restaurant. May be covered by the m aitre d' or
toes, believed to have originated in Genoa and popularized by Italian im m igrants in San Francisco.
captain. CLARIFICATION:The process o f rem oving solid im purities from CHEF DE SERVICE: D ire ctor o f service.
a liquid such as b u tte r or stock. Also, a m ixture o f ground
CHEF DE VIN: Wine steward. Responsible fo r purchasingthe
meat, egg whites, m irepoix, to m a to puree, herbs, and
restaurant's wine, helping guests make wine selections, and se rving th e guests'w ine. Also known as the sommelier.
spices used to c la rify broth fo r consomme. CLARIFIED BUTTER: B u tte r fro m which the m ilk solids and wa te r have been removed, leaving pure b u tte rfa t. Has a higher smoke p o in t than whole b u tte r but less b u tte r flavor.
1170
G LO S S A R Y
COAGULATION:The curdling or clum ping o f proteins, usually due to the application o f heat or acid. COARSE CHOP: To cut into pieces o f roughly the same size. Used fo r item s such as m irepoix, where appearance is not im portant. COCOA: The pods o f the cacao tree, processed to remove the cocoa b u tte r and ground into powder. Used as a flavoring. COCOTTE: Casserole. A cooking dish w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid fo r braising or stewing. Also, a small ramekin used fo r cooking eggs. En co co tte is o fte n interchangeable w ith en casserole. CODDLED EGGS: Eggs cooked b rie fly (about 30 seconds) in sim m ering w a te r in th e ir shells or in ramekins or special coddlers, ju s t u n til set. COLANDER: A p e rfo ra te d bowl, w ith or w ith o u t a base or legs, used to strain liquids or drain them fro m solids. COLLAGEN: A fib ro u s pro te in found in the connective tissue
CONFISERIE: Confectionery or candy. A confiseur is a patissier specializing in, and responsible for, the production o f can dies and related item s such as p e tits fours. CONFIT: M eat (usually goose, duck, or pork) cooked gently and preserved in its own fa t. CONSOMME: Broth th a t has been cla rifie d using a m ixture o f ground meat, egg whites, and o ther ingredients th a t trap im p uritie s to re su lt in a p e rfe ctly clear broth. CONVECTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat is trans m itte d through the circulation o f air or water. CONVECTION OVEN: An oven th a t employs convection cur rents by fo rcin g hot air through fans so it circulates around food, cooking it quickly and evenly. CONVERTED RICE: Rice th a t has been pressure-steam ed and dried before m illing to remove surface starch and retain nutrients. Also known as parboiled rice. COQUILLES ST. JACQUES: Scallops. Also, a dish o f broiled scal
o f animals, used to make glue and gelatin. Breaks down
lops w ith a creamy wine sauce, gratineed and served in the
into gelatin when cooked in a m oist environm ent fo r an
shell.
extended period o f tim e. COMBINATION METHOD: A cooking m ethod th a t involves the application o f both dry and m oist heat to the main item
CORAL: L obster roe, which is red or coral-colored when cooked. CORNICHON: A small, sour pickled cucumber. O ften an accom panim ent to pates and smoked meats.
(e.g., m eats seared in fa t, then simmered in a sauce fo r braising or stewing).
CORNSTARCH: A fin e w h ite powder milled from dried corn; used prim a rily as a thickener fo r sauce and occasionally as
COMMIS: Apprentice. A cook who works under a chef de partie
an ingredient in batters.
to learn the sta tio n and its responsibilities. COTTAGE CHEESE: A fresh cheese made from the drained curd C0M MUNARD:The kitchen position responsible fo r preparing
o f soured cow's milk.
s ta ff meals. COULIS: A th ick puree o f vegetables or fru it, served hot or cold. COMPLETE PROTEIN: A fo o d source th a t provides all o f the es sential amino acids in the co rre ct ratio so they can be used
T raditionally refe rs to the thickened juices o f cooked meat, fish, or shellfish puree or certain th ick soups.
in the body fo r pro te in synthesis. May require more than one ingredient (such as beans and rice together).
COUNTRY-STYLE: A term used to describe forcem eat th a t is coarse in te xtu re , usually made from pork, pork fa t, liver,
COMPLEX CARBOHYDRATE: A large molecule made up o f long
and various garnishes.
chains o f sugar molecules. In food, these molecules are found in starches and fiber.
COURT BOUILLON: L iterally, "short broth." An arom atic veg etable b roth th a t usually includes an acidic ingredient such
COMPOSED SALAD: A salad in which the item s are carefully
as wine or vinegar; m ost commonly used fo r poaching fish.
arranged on a plate, rather than tossed together. COUSCOUS: Pellets o f semolina or cracked wheat usually COMPOTE: A dish o f fresh or dried fr u it cooked in syrup, fla vored w ith spices or liqueur. Also, a type o f small dish. COMPOUND BUTTER: B u tte r combined w ith herbs or other seasonings. Usually used to sauce g rilled or broiled items,
cooked by steaming, tra d itio n a lly in a couscoussiere. Also, the stew w ith which this grain is tra d itio n a lly served. COUSCOUSSIERE: A set o f nesting pots, sim ilar to a steamer, used to cook couscous.
vegetables, or steamed dessert puddings. COUVERTURE: Fine sem isweet chocolate used fo r coating and CONCASSER: To pound or chop coarsely. Concasse usually refers to tom atoes th a t have been peeled, seeded, and
decorating, th a t is extrem ely glossy and smooth. Chocolate containing a m inimum o f 32 percent cocoa butter.
chopped. CREAM: The fa tty com ponent o f milk; available w ith various fa t CONDIMENT: An arom atic m ixture, such as pickles, chutney, and some sauces and relishes, th a t accompanies food. Usually kept on the table thro u g h o u t service. CONDUCTION: A m ethod o f heat tra n sfe r in which heat is tra n s m itte d through another substance. In cooking, when heat is tra n sm itte d to fo o d through a p o t or pan, oven racks, or g rill rods.
contents. Also, a m ixing method fo r b a tte rs and doughs in which the sugar and fa t are beaten to g eth e r until light and flu ffy before the o th er ingredients are added. CREAM CHEESE: S o ft unripened cheese derived from cow's m ilk, which m ust contain 33 percent m ilk fa t and 55 per cent or less m oisture. Used as a spread, a dip, in confec tions, and in dressings.
G LO S S A R Y
1171
CREAM OF TARTAR: A salt o f ta rta ric acid used extensively in
CURD: The sem isolid po rtio n o f m ilk once it coagulates and
baking, found in wine barrels a fte r fe rm e n tatio n . Used to
separates. Also, a sweet, creamy, pudding-like preparation
give s ta b ility and volume in whipping egg whites. O ften as
made o f fr u it juice (typica lly citrus), sugar, eggs, and butter.
the acid component in baking powder.
CURE: To preserve a food by salting, smoking, pickling, and/or drying.
CREAM PUFF: A pa stry made w ith pate a choux, fille d w ith creme patissiere, and usually glazed. Also called a
CURING SALT: A m ixture o f 94 percent table salt (sodium chlo
p ro fite ro le .
ride) and 6 percent sodium n itrite , used to preserve meats. Also known as tin te d curing m ixture or TCM.
CREAM SOUP: Traditionally, a soup based on a bechamel sauce. Loosely, any soup finished w ith cream, a cream variant
CURRY: A m ixture o f spices, used p rim arily in Indian cuisine.
such as sour cream, or a liaison.
May include turm eric, coriander, cumin, cayenne or other chiles, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, fennel, fenugreek, gin
CREME ANGLAISE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice
ger, and garlic. Also, a stew -like dish seasoned w ith curry. CUSTARD: A m ixture o f milk, beaten egg, and possibly other
cream. Also known as vanilla sauce.
ingredients such as sweet or savory flavorings, cooked w ith gentle heat, o fte n in a bain-marie, double boiler, or
CREME BROLEE: Literally, “burnt cream" a baked custard
w a te r bath.
topped w ith sugar th a t is caramelized before service. The caramelized sugar creates a dual-textured dessert w ith a so ft, creamy custard and a b rittle sugar topping. CREME FRAiCHE: Fleavy cream cultured to give it a th ick
d DAILY VALUES (DV): Standard n u tritio n a l values developed
consistency and a slig h tly tangy flavor. Used in hot prepa
by the U.S. Food and Drug A d m in istra tio n fo r use on food
rations since it is less likely than sour cream or yogurt to
labels.
curdle when heated. CREME PATISSIERE: Literally, "pastry cream." A stirre d custard made w ith eggs, flo u r or o th e r starches, milk, sugar, and flavorings, used to fill and garnish pastries or as the base fo r souffles, creams, and mousses. CREOLE: This sophisticated typ e o f cooking is a combination o f French, Spanish, and A frican cuisines; signature ingre dients include butter, cream, tom atoes, file powder, green peppers, onions, and celery. Gumbo is a tra d itio n a l Creole dish.
DANGER ZONE: The tem perature range from 41° to 135°F/5° to 57°C; the m ost favorable condition fo r rapid grow th o f many pathogens. DANISH PASTRY: A pastry o f rich yeast dough w ith a b u tte r roll-in, possibly fille d w ith nuts, fru it, or o ther ingredients, and iced. DAUBE: A classic French stew o f meat, vegetables, and season ings braised in red wine, tra d itio n a lly cooked in a daubiere, a specialized casserole w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid and indenta tions to hold h o t coals.
CREPE: A thin pancake made w ith egg b a tter; used in sweet and savory preparations.
DEBEARD: To remove the shaggy, inedible fib e rs from a mussel. These fib e rs anchor the mussel to its mooring.
CROISSANT: A pastry consisting o f a yeast dough w ith a b u tte r roll-in, tra d itio n a lly form ed into a crescent shape. CROSS CONTAMINATION:The transference o f disease-causing
DECK OVEN: An oven in which the heat source is located under neath the deck or flo o r; food is placed d ire ctly on the deck instead o f on a rack.
elem ents from one source to another through physical contact. CROUSTADE: A small, edible baked or frie d container fo r meat,
DEEP FRY: To cook fo o d by immersion in hot fa t; deep-fried foods are o fte n coated w ith bread crumbs or b a tte r before cooking.
chicken, or other m ixtures; usually made from pastry but may be made fro m potatoes or pasta.
DEEP POACH: To cook fo o d gently in enough sim mering liquid to com pletely submerge the food.
CROUTE, EN: Encased in a bread or pastry crust and baked. DEGLAZE/DEGLACER:To use a liquid such as wine, water, or CROUTON: A bread or pastry garnish, cut into bite-size pieces and to a sted or sauteed u n til crisp. CRUMB: A te rm used to describe the te xtu re o f baked goods; fo r example, an item can be said to have a fine or coarse crumb. CRUSTACEAN: A class o f hard-shelled arthropods w ith elon gated bodies, p rim arily aquatic, th a t include edible species such as lobster, crab, shrimp, and crayfish. CUISSON: Shallow poaching liquid, including stock, fum et, or
1 172
stock to dissolve food p articles and/or caramelized d rip pings le ft in a pan a fte r roasting or sauteing. The resulting mix then becomes the base fo r the accompanying sauce. DEGREASE/DEGRAISSER:To skim the fa t o ff the surface o f a liquid such as a stock or sauce. DEMI-GLACE: Literally, “half-glaze.” A m ixture o f equal pro portions o f brown stock and brown sauce th a t has been reduced by half. One o f the "grand" sauces. DEPOUILLAGE: Skim m ing the im p uritie s from the surface o f a
oth er liquid, th a t may be reduced and used as a base fo r
cooking liquid such as a stock or sauce. This action is sim
the poached item's sauce.
p lifie d by placing the p o t o ff center on the burner (convec
G LO S S A R Y
tion simmer) and rem oving im purities as they co lle ct a t one side o f the pot. DEVILING: Seasoning meat, poultry, or oth er fo o d w ith mus tard, vinegar, and possibly oth er hot and spicy seasonings, such as red pepper and Tabasco. DICE:To cut ingredients into evenly sized small cubes (% in /6 mm fo r small, V 2 in /1 cm fo r medium, and 3/ 4 in / 2 cm fo r large are the standards).
DIE: The plate in a m eat grinder through which fo o d passes ju s t before a blade cuts it. The size o f the die's opening d e te r mines the fineness o f the grind. DIGESTIF: A s p irit usually consumed a fte r dining as an aid to digestion. Examples include brandy and cognac. DIRECT HEAT: A m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r in which heat waves
ECLAIR: A long, thin baked shell o f pate a choux, fille d w ith creme patissiere and glazed w ith chocolate fondant or ganache. EDIBLE-PORTION (EP) WEIGHT: The weight o f an item a fte r trim m in g and preparation (as opposed to the as-purchased [APJ weight). EGG WASH: A m ixture o f beaten eggs (whole eggs, yolks, or w hites) and a liquid, usually m ilk or water, used to coat baked goods to give them a sheen. EMINCER:To cut an item , usually meat, into very thin slices. EMULSION: A m ixture o f tw o or more liquids, one o f which is a fa t or oil and the o ther o f which is w a te r based, so th a t tin y globules o f one are suspended in the other.
radiate fro m a source (e.g., an open burner or g rill) and
This may involve the use o f stabilizers such as egg or
tra v e l d ire c tly to the item being heated w ith no conductor
m ustard. Emulsions may be tem porary, permanent, or
between heat source and food. Examples are grilling, b ro il
semiperm anent.
ing, and toasting. Also known as radiant heat. DOCK: To cut the to p o f dough before baking to allow steam
ENDOSPERM: The largest po rtio n o f the inside o f the seed o f a flo w e ring plant such as wheat; composed prim arily o f
to escape to co n tro l the expansion o f the dough a nd/or to
starch and protein. This is the po rtio n used p rim arily in
create a decorative e ffe c t.
m illed grain products.
DORE: Coated w ith egg yolk or cooked to a golden brown. DRAWN: Describes a whole fish th a t has been g u tted but s till has its head, fins, and ta il. Also refe rs to cla rifie d butter. DREDGE: To coat fo o d w ith a dry ingredient such as flo u r or bread crumbs p rio r to fry in g or sauteing. DRESSED: Prepared fo r cooking. A dressed fish is g u tted and scaled, and its head, ta il, and fin s are removed (also called pan-dressed). Dressed p o u ltry is plucked, gutted, singed, trim m ed, and trussed. Also, coated w ith dressing, as a salad. DRUM SIEVE: A sieve consisting o f a screen stretched across a shallow cylinder o f wood or aluminum. Also known as a tamis. DRY CURE: A com bination o f salts and spices used to preserve meats; o fte n used before sm oking to process meats and forcem eats. DRY SAUTE: To saute w ith o u t fa t, usually using a nonstick pan.
ENTRECOTE: Literally, "between the ribs.” A very tender steak cut fro m between the ninth and eleventh ribs o f beef. ENTREMETIER: Vegetable ch e f/sta tio n .T h e position responsi ble fo r hot appetizers and o fte n soups, vegetables, starch es, and pastas: may also be responsible fo r egg dishes. ESCALOPE: A scallop o f meat; th is cut o f a small, boneless piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness is m ost often sauteed. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE: Literally, “ Spanish sauce." Brown sauce made w ith brown stock, caramelized m irepoix, to m a to pu ree, seasonings, and roux. ESSENCE: A concentrated fla vo rin g extracted from an item, usually by infusion or d istilla tio n . Includes item s such as vanilla and o th er e xtracts, concentrated stocks, and fum ets. ESTOUFFADE: A French stew o f wine-m oistened pieces o f meat. Also, a typ e o f rich brown stock based on pork knuck le and veal and beef bones, o fte n used in braises.
DUMPLING: Any o f a number o f sm all s o ft dough or b a tte r item s, which are steamed, poached, or simmered (possibly on to p o f a stew), baked, pan frie d , or deep frie d . May be fille d or plain. DURUM: A very hard w heat ty p ica lly m illed into semolina, p ri m arily used in making pasta.
ETHYLENE GAS: A gas e m itte d by various fru its and vegeta bles, th a t speeds ripening, maturing, and eventually rotting. ETOUFFEE: Literally, "smothered." Refers to fo o d cooked by a m ethod sim ilar to braising, except th a t item s are cooked w ith little or no added liquid in a pan w ith a tig h t-fittin g lid (also etuver, a I'etuvee). Also, a Cajun dish made w ith a dark
DUST: To d is trib u te a film o f flour, sugar, cocoa powder, or o ther such ingredients on pans or w ork surfaces, on a fo o d be
roux, crayfish, vegetables, and seasonings, served over a bed o f w h ite rice.
fo re cooking, or on finished products as a garnish. EVAPORATED MILK: Unsweetened canned milk from which 60 DUTCH OVEN: A ke ttle , usually o f cast iron, used fo r stewing and braising on the stovetop or in the oven. DUTCH PROCESS: A m ethod o f tre a tin g cocoa powder w ith an alkali to reduce its acidity. DUXELLES: An appareil o f fin e ly chopped mushrooms and shal
percent o f the w a te r has been removed before canning. O ften used in custards and to create a creamy te xtu re in food. EXTRUDER: A machine used to shape dough. The dough is pushed o u t through p e rfo ra te d plates rather than rolled.
lots sauteed g ently in butter. Used as a stu ffin g , garnish, or as a fla vo rin g in soups and sauces. GLOSSARY
1173
f
FOIE GRAS: The fa tte n e d liver o f a duck or goose th a t has been
FABRICATION: The butchering, cutting, and trim m in g o f meat, poultry, fish, and game (large pieces or whole) into sm aller cuts to prepare them to be cooked. FACULTATIVE BACTERIA: Bacteria th a t can survive both w ith and w ith o u t oxygen.
fo rce -fe d over a fo u r- to five-m onth period. FOLD: To g ently combine ingredients (especially foams) so as not to release trapped a ir bubbles. Also, to gently mix to ge the r tw o item s, usually a light, airy m ixture w ith a denser m ixture. Also, the m ethod o f turning, rolling, and layering dough over on its e lf to produce a fla k y texture.
FARCE: Literally, "s tu ffin g " in French. A fo rce m e a t or stu ffin g . FOND: The French te rm fo r stock. Also, the pan drippings re FARINA: A fin e w heat meal th a t can be eaten as a breakfast cereal when cooked in boiling water, used in puddings, or
maining a fte r sauteing or roasting food, o fte n deglazed and used as a base fo r sauces.
used as a thickener. FONDANT: A w h ite paste made fro m liquid (usually w ater or FAT: One o f the basic n u trie n ts used by the body to provide en ergy. Fats carry fla vo r in fo o d and give a fe e lin g o f fullness. FATBACK: Pork fa t from the back o f the pig, used prim a rily fo r barding, and also to make lard and cracklings. FERMENTATION: The process o f yeast acting to break down
corn syrup) and sugar, th a t has been dissolved, heated, and agita te d during cooling. Used as a fillin g and glaze fo r pas trie s and confections. FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS: An illness in humans caused by the consumption o f an adulterated food product. For an o f
sugars into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol, which is es
fic ia l d eterm ination th a t an outbreak o f food-borne illness
sential in bread leavening and beer, wine, and s p irit making.
has occurred, tw o or more people m ust have become ill
Also, the period o f rising in yeast doughs. FIBER/DIETARY FIBER: The stru ctu ra l component o f plants, necessary to the human diet. Indigestible. Also refe rre d to as roughage. FILE: A thickener made fro m ground dried sassafras leaves; used p rim arily in gumbo. FILET MIGNON:The expensive boneless cut o f beef fro m the small end o f the tenderloin. FILLET/FILET: A boneless cut o f meat, fish, or poultry.
a fte r eating the same food, and the outbreak m ust be con firm e d by health o fficia ls. FOOD COST: Cost o f all fo o d purchased to prepare item s fo r sale in a restaurant. FOOD MILL: A strain e r w ith a crank-operated curved blade, used to puree s o ft foods while straining them. FOOD PROCESSOR: A machine w ith interchangeable blades and disks and a removable bowl and lid separate from the m oto r housing. Can be used fo r a va rie ty o f tasks including chopping, grinding, pureeing, em ulsifying, kneading, slicing,
FINES HERBES: A m ixture o f herbs, usually parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives. Generally added to the dish ju s t p rior to serving, as they lose th e ir fla vo r quickly. FIRST IN, FIRST OUT (FIFO): A fundam ental storage principle based on stock ro ta tio n . Products are stored and used so th a t the oldest product is always used firs t. FISH POACHER: A long, narrow po t w ith stra ig h t sides and pos sibly a p e rforated rack, used fo r poaching whole fish. FIVE-SPICE POWDER: A m ixture o f equal parts ground cin namon, clove, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechwan peppercorns. FLAT FISH: A type o f fish characterized by its fla t body and having both eyes on one side o f its head (e.g., sole, plaice, flounder, and halibut). FLATTOP: A th ick plate o f cast iron or steel se t over the heat source on a range; d iffu ses heat, m aking it more even than an open burner. FLEURONS: Garnishes made from lig h t p u ff pa stry cut into oval, diamond, or crescent shapes and served w ith meat, fish, or soup. FLORENTINE, A LA: Dishes prepared in the style o f Florence, Italy; denotes the use o f spinach and som etim es Mornay sauce or cheese. FOAMING MIXING METHOD: A method o f producing b a tters in which the main stru ctu ra l com ponent is a m ixture o f eggs (whole and /o r separated yolks and w hites) and sugar, whipped to incorporate large q u a ntitie s o f air.
1174
G LO S S A R Y
shredding, and c u ttin g into julienne. FORCEMEAT: An emulsion o f chopped or ground meat, fa t, and a binder, used fo r pates, sausages, and oth er preparations. The fo u r types are mousseline, straight, country-style, and gratin. FORK-TENDER: A degree o f doneness in braised foods and vegetables; fo rk -te n d e r foods are easily pierced or cut by a fo rk, or should slide readily fro m a fo rk when lifte d . FORMULA: A recipe in which m easurements fo r each ingredi ent are given as percentages o f the weight fo r the main ingredient. FORTIFIED WINE: Wine to which a sp irit, usually brandy, has been added (e.g., Marsala, Madeira, port, or sherry). FREE-RANGE: Refers to livestock th a t is raised unconfined. FRENCH:To cut and scrape m eat from rib bones before cooking. FRICASSEE: A stew o f po u ltry or other w hite m eat w ith a w hite sauce. FRITTER: Sweet or savory fo o d coated or mixed into b a tte r and deep frie d . Also called beignet. FRITURIER: Fry ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all frie d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position. FRUCTOSE: A sim ple sugar found in fru its . Fructose is the sw eetest simple sugar.
FUMET: A typ e o f stock in which the main fla vo rin g ingredient
GRAND SAUCE: Any o f several basic sauces used in the prepa
is allowed to cook in a lidded p o t w ith wine and arom atics.
ration o f many o th er sm all sauces. The grand sauces are
Fish fu m e t is the m ost common type.
demi-glace, veloute, bechamel, hollan-daise, and tom ato. Also called “m other" sauce.
g
GRATIN: A cheese or bread crumb topping browned in an oven or under a salamander (au gratin, gratin de). Also refers to
GALANTINE: Boned m eat (usually poultry), s tu ffe d w ith fo rc e
a fo rce m e a t in which some portion o f the dom inant meat is
meat, rolled, poached, and served cold, usually coated w ith
sauteed and cooled before it is ground.
aspic. GANACHE: A preparation o f chocolate and heavy cream, and
GRAVLAX: Raw salmon cured w ith salt, sugar, and fresh dill. A dish o f Scandinavian origin, o fte n accompanied by mustard
som etim es butter, sugar, and o ther flavorings. Among o th
and d ill sauce.
er things, it is used as a sauce, glaze, and fillin g , or to make confections. Can range fro m s o ft to hard, depending on the
GRIDDLE: A heavy m etal cooking surface, which may be fitte d w ith handles, b u ilt into a stove, or heated by its own gas or
ratio o f chocolate to cream.
ele ctric elem ent. Cooking is done d ire ctly on the griddle.
GARBURE: A th ick vegetable soup, usually containing beans, cabbage, and /o r potatoes.
GRILL: To cook fo o ds by a radiant heat source placed below the food. Also, the piece o f equipm ent on which grillin g is done;
GARDE MANGER: Pantry ch e f/sta tio n . The position respon
may be fueled by gas, e le ctricity, charcoal, or wood.
sible fo r cold food preparation, including salads, a ppetiz ers, and pates.
GRILLARDIN: G rill ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all g rille d foods; may be combined w ith the rotisseur position.
GARNI: Literally, "garnished.” Used to describe dishes accompa nied by vegetables and potatoes.
GRILL PAN: A s k ille t w ith ridges, used on the stovetop to simu late grilling.
GARNISH: An edible decoration or accompanim ent to a dish or item. GAZPACHO: A cold soup made fro m vegetables, typ ica lly to m a
GRISSINI:Thin, crisp breadsticks. GRISWOLD: A pot, sim ilar to a rondeau, made o f cast iron; may have a single short handle rather than the usual loop
toes, cucumbers, peppers, and onions.
handles.
GELATIN: A protein-based substance found in animal bones and connective tissue. When dissolved in hot liquid and then
GUMBO: A Creole so up/stew thickened w ith file or okra, fla vored w ith a va rie ty o f m eats and fishes and dark roux.
cooled, it can be used as a thickener and stabilizer.
starch, in which the starch molecules swell to fo rm a n e t
h
work th a t trap s w a te r molecules.
HARICOT: L iterally, “ bean." Haricots verts are green beans.
GELATION: A phase in the process o f thickening a liquid w ith
GENOISE: A lig h t cake, made using the foam ing mixing method, containing flour, sugar, eggs, butter, vanilla, and /o r other flavorings. GERM:The p o rtio n o f the seed o f flo w e ring plants, such as
HASH: Chopped, cooked meat, usually w ith p otatoes and/or o ther vegetables, seasoned, bound w ith a sauce, and sau teed. Also, to chop into small irregular pieces. HAZARD ANALYSIS CRITICAL CONTROL POINT (HACCP):
wheat, th a t sprouts to fo rm a new plant; the embryo o f the
A m on ito rin g system used to track foods fro m the tim e
new plant.
th a t they are received un til they are served to consum
GHERKIN: A small pickled cucumber. GIBLETS: Organs and o th er trim fro m poultry, including the liver, heart, gizzard, and neck, used to fla vo r stocks and soups. GLACE: Reduced stock. Also, ice cream.
ers, to ensure th a t the foods are free from contam ination. Standards and controls are established fo r tim e and te m perature, as w ell as safe handling practices. HEIMLICH MANEUVER: F irst aid fo r choking, involving the ap plication o f sudden upward pressure on the upper abdomen to fo rce a fo re ig n object fro m the windpipe.
GLACE: L iterally, "glazed” or iced. Icing. HIGH-RATIO CAKE: A cake in which the b a tte r includes a high GLAZE: To give an item a shiny surface by brushing or o th e r
percentage o f sugar in relation to oth er ingredients.
wise coating it w ith sauce, aspic, icing, or another appareil. For meat, to coat w ith sauce and then brown in an oven or salamander.
HOLLANDAISE: A classic emulsion sauce made w ith a vinegar reduction, egg yolks, and m elted butter, flavored w ith lemon juice. One o f the “grand" sauces.
GLUCOSE: A sim ple sugar found in honey, some fru its , and many vegetables. It has about half the sweetness o f table sugar and is the pre fe rre d source o f energy fo r the human body. GLUTEN: A pro te in present in w heat flo u r th a t develops through hydration and m ixing to fo rm elastic strands th a t build structu re and aid in leavening.
HOLLOW-GROUND: A type o f knife blade made by fusing two sheets o f m etal and beveling or flu tin g the edge. HOMINY: Corn th a t has been m illed or tre a te d w ith a lye solu tio n to remove the bran and germ. Ground hominy is known as grits.
GLOSSARY
1175
HOMOGENIZATION: A process used to prevent the m ilk fa t fro m separating o u t o f m ilk products. The liquid is forced through an u ltra fin e mesh at high pressure, which breaks up fa t globules and disperses them evenly throughout the liquid. HORS D’OEUVRE: L ite ra lly,"o u tsid e the work." An appetizer. HOTEL PAN: A rectangular m etal pan, in a number o f standard sizes, w ith a lip th a t allows it to re st on a storage shelf or in a steam table. HYDROGENATION: The process in which hydrogen atoms are added to an unsaturated fa t molecule, mak ing it p a rtia lly or com pletely saturated and solid a t room tem perature. HYDROPONICS: A technique fo r growing vegetables in n u tri ent-enriched w a te r rather than in soil. HYGIENE: Conditions and practices follow ed to maintain health, including sa nitation and personal cleanliness.
k KASHA: Buckwheat groats th a t have been hulled, crushed, and roasted; usually prepared by boiling. KNEAD: To work or m ix a dough by hand to soften it to working consistency, or to stretch yeasted doughs to expand th e ir gluten. KOSHER: Prepared in accordance w ith Jewish die ta ry laws. KOSHER SALT: Pure, refined salt, also known as coarse salt or pickling salt. Used fo r pickling because it does not contain magnesium carbonate and thus does not cloud brine solu tions. Also used to kosher m eats and poultry.
1 LACTOSE: The simple sugar found in milk. This disaccharide is the least sweet o f the natural sugars. LAMINATE: To fo ld and ro ll a dough to g eth e r w ith a roll-in fa t to create a lte rn a tin g layers o f fa t and dough; used to create p u ff pastry, Danish, and croissants.
1
LARD: Rendered pork fa t; used in pastry and fo r frying. Also,
INDUCTION BURNER: A typ e o f heating unit th a t relies on mag
to in se rt sm all strip s o f fa tb ack in to naturally lean meats
netic a ttra c tio n between the cooktop and m etals in the pot
before roasting or braising. The process is done using a
to generate the heat th a t cooks fo o ds in the pan. Reaction
larding needle.
tim e is sig n ifica n tly fa s te r than w ith tra d itio n a l burners. INFECTION: Contam ination by a disease-causing agent such as a bacterium . INFUSION: Steeping an arom atic or o th e r item in liquid to ex tra c t its flavor. Also, the liquid resulting from th is process. INSTANT-READ THERMOMETER: A th e rm o m e te r used to measure the internal tem perature o f foods. The stem is inserted in the food, producing an im m ediate tem perature readout. INTOXICATION: Poisoning; a sta te o f being ta in te d w ith toxins, p a rticu la rly those produced by a m icroorganism th a t has in fe cted food. INVENTORY: An item ized lis t o f goods and equipm ent on hand, to g e th e r w ith the estim ated w orth or cost. INVERT SUGAR: A sugar th a t is a m ixture o f dextrose and fru c tose, which w ill not easily crystallize. These sugars can oc cur naturally or be created by boiling sucrose w ith an acid.
LARDON/LARDOON: A s trip o f fa t used fo r larding; may be sea soned. Also, bacon th a t has been diced, blanched, and fried. LEAVENER: Any ingredient or process th a t produces gas and causes the rising o f baked goods. Can be chemical (baking powder), mechanical (folding in air in whipped egg whites), or biological (yeast). LECITHIN: An e m u lsifier found in eggs and soybeans. LEGUME:The seeds o f certain pod plants, including beans and peas, which are eaten fo r th e ir earthy fla vo rs and high nu tritio n a l value. Also, the French word fo r vegetable. LI AISON: A m ixture o f egg yolks and cream used to thicken and enrich sauces. Also loosely applied to any appareil used as a thickener. LIQUEUR: A s p irit fla vo re d w ith fru it, spices, nuts, herbs, and/ or seeds and usually sweetened. Also known as cordials, liqueurs o fte n have a high alcohol content, a viscous body, and a s lig h tly s ticky feel. LITTLENECK: Small hard-shell clams, o fte n eaten raw on the half shell; sm aller than a cherrystone clam (less than 2 in/5
)
cm in diameter).
JARDINIERE: A m ixture o f vegetables.
LOW-FAT MILK: M ilk containing less than 2 percent fa t.
JULIENNE: Vegetables, potatoes, or o ther item s cut into thin
LOX: Cold-smoked salt-cured salmon.
strips; Vs in by Vs in by 1 to 2 in /3 mm by 3 mm by 3 to 5 cm is standard. Fine julienne is V i 6 in by V i 6 in by 1 to 2 in/1.5 mm by 1.5 mm by 3 to 5 cm.
LOZENGE CUT: A knife cut in which fo o ds are cut into small diamond shapes V>in by V iin by Vs in/1 cm by 1 cm by 3 mm thick.
JUS: Literally, “juice.” Refers to fr u it and vegetable juices as well as juices fro m meats. Jus de viande is m eat gravy. M eat served au jus is served w ith its own juice or a jus lie.
LYONNAISE: Food cooked in the style o f Lyons; Lyonnaise po ta to e s are sauteed w ith onions and butter. Also refers to a sauce made w ith onions and usually butter, w hite wine,
JUS LIE: M eat juice thickened lig h tly w ith a rro w ro ot or cornstarch.
GLOSSARY
vinegar, and demi-glace.
fish, is dusted w ith flour, sauteed, and served w ith a sauce MACAROON: Small cookie o f nut paste (typica lly almond or coconut), sugar, and egg white. MADEIRA: A Portuguese fo rtifie d wine, tre a te d w ith heat as it ages to give it a d istin ctive fla v o r and brownish color. MAILLARD REACTION: A complex browning reaction th a t re sults in the p a rticu la r fla vo r and color o f fo o ds th a t do not contain much sugar, including roasted meats. The reaction, which involves carbohydrates and amino acids, is named a fte r the French scie n tist who f ir s t discovered it. There are low -tem perature and high-tem perature M aillard reactions; the high-tem perature reaction s ta rts a t 310°F/154°C. MAITRE D’HOTEL: Dining room manager or food and beverage manager, in fo rm a lly called maTtre d! This position oversees
o f beurre n oisette, lemon juice, and parsley. MICROWAVE OVEN: A cooking device in which electrom agnetic waves (sim ilar to radio waves) generated by a device called a m agnetron penetrate fo o d and cause the w a te r m ol ecules in it to oscillate. This rapid molecular m otion gener ates heat th a t cooks the food. MIE: The s o ft p a rt o f bread (not the crust); mie de pain is fresh w h ite bread crumbs. MILL: To separate grain in to germ /husk, bran, and endosperm, and grind it into flo u r or meal. MILLET: A small, round, glutenless grain. May be boiled or ground into flour. MINCE: To chop into very sm all pieces.
the dining room a n d /o r the fro n t- of-house s ta ff. Also, a compound b u tte r fla vo re d w ith chopped parsley and lemon juice.
MINERAL: An inorganic elem ent th a t is an essential component o f the diet. Provides no energy and is th e re fo re referred to as a noncaloric n utrient. The body cannot produce minerals;
MANDOLINE: A slicing device o f pla stic or stainless steel w ith
they m ust be obtained fro m the diet.
carbon steel blades. M ost models have blades th a t may be adjusted to cut item s into various shapes and thicknesses.
MINESTRONE: A hearty vegetable soup; typ ica lly includes dried beans and pasta.
MARBLING: The intram uscular fa t found in m eat th a t makes it te n de r and juicy.
MINUTE,
ALA: L ite ra lly ,“ at the minute." A restaurant produc
tio n approach in which a dish is not prepared un til an order MARINADE: An appareil used before cooking to fla v o r and
arrives in the kitchen.
m oisten foods; may be liquid or dry. Liquid marinades are usually based on an acidic ingredient such as wine or vin egar; dry marinades are usually salt based.
MIREPOIX: A com bination o f chopped arom atic vegetables (usually tw o parts onion, one pa rt carrot, and one p a rt cel ery) used to fla v o r stocks, soups, braises, and stews.
MARK ON A GRILL: To tu rn a fo o d (w ith o u t flip p in g it over) 90 degrees a fte r it has been on the g rill fo r several seconds to create th e cross-hatching associated w ith grille d foods.
MISE EN PLACE: L iterally, “p u t in place."The preparation and assembly o f ingredients, pans, utensils, and plates or serv ing pieces needed fo r a p a rticu la r dish or service period.
MARZIPAN: A paste o f ground almonds, sugar, and som etim es egg w hites used to fill, cover, and decorate pastries.
MODE, A LA: Lite ra lly, "in the style o f" (often follow ed by de plus a d escriptive phrase). Boeuf a la mode is braised beef;
MATELOTE: A French fish stew tra d itio n a lly made w ith eel
pie a la mode is served w ith ice cream.
or oth er fre sh w a te r fish and fla vo re d w ith wine and arom atics.
MOLASSES: The dark brown, sweet syrup th a t is a by-product o f sugarcane and sugar beet refining. Molasses is available
MATIGNON: An edible m irepoix, o fte n used in poeleed dishes and usually served w ith the finished dish. Typically, m ati-
as lig h t (the least cooked but sweetest), dark, and black strap (the m ost cooked and m ost b itte r).
gnon includes tw o parts carrot, one pa rt celery, one part leek, one p a rt onion, one p a rt mushroom (optional), and one p a rt ham or bacon.
MOLLUSK: Any o f a number o f invertebrate animals w ith so ft, unsegmented bodies usually enclosed in a hard shell. M ollusks include gastropods (univalves), bivalves, and
MAYONNAISE: A cold emulsion o f oil, egg yolks, vinegar, mus tard, and seasonings, used as a dressing, a spread, or a
cephalopods; examples include clams, oysters, snails, o cto pus, and squid.
base fo r a d ditional sauces. MONOSODIUM GLUTAMATE (MSG): A fla vo r enhancer derived MECHANICAL LEAVENER: A ir incorporated into a b a tte r or dough to act as a rising agent. MEDALLION: A small, round scallop o f meat. MERINGUE: Egg w hites beaten w ith sugar until they stiffe n . Types include regular or common, Italian, and Swiss. MESOPHILIC: A te rm used to describe bacteria th a t th rive in tem peratures between 60° and 1 00°F /16° and 38°C. METABOLISM: The sum o f chemical processes in living cells by which energy is provided and new m aterial is assim ilated.
fro m glutam ic acid, w ith o u t a d is tin c t fla vo r o f its own; used prim a rily in Chinese cuisine and processed foods. May cause allergic reactions in some people. MONOUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t w ith one available bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. Helpful in lowering the LDL cholesterol level (the bad cholesterol). Food sources include avocados, olives, and nuts. MONTE AU BEURRE: Literally, “lifte d w ith butter." Refers to a technique used to fin ish sauces, thicken them slightly, and give them a glossy appearance by whisking or sw irling
MEUNIERE, A LA: French fo r "in the style o f the m ille r’s wife." Refers to a cooking technique in which the item, generally
whole b u tte r into the sauce un til m elted.
G LO S S A R Y
1177
MOUSSE: A foam made w ith beaten egg w hites and /o r whipped cream folded into a fla vo re d base appareil. May be sweet or savory. MOUSSELINE: A mousse. Also, a sauce made by fo lding whipped cream in to hollandaise. Also, a very lig h t fo rc e
OIGNON PIQUE: L ite ra lly,"p ricked onionl’ A whole peeled onion to which a bay le a f is attached, using a clove as a tack. Used to fla vo r bechamel sauce and some soups. OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS: Polyunsaturated fa tty acids th a t may reduce the risk o f heart disease and tu m o r growth, stim u
meat based on w hite m eat or seafood lightened w ith cream
late the immune system, and lower blood pressure; they
and eggs.
occur in fa tty fish, dark green leafy vegetables, and certain nuts and oils.
n
OMELET: Beaten egg, cooked in b u tte r in a specialized pan or
NAPOLEON: A pastry tra d itio n a lly made o f layered p u ff pas tr y rectangles fille d w ith pastry cream and glazed w ith fondant. NAPPE: To coat w ith sauce. Also, thickened. Also, the consis tency o f a sauce th a t w ill coat the back o f a spoon. NATURE: French fo r "ungarnished" or “ plain.” Pommes natures are boiled potatoes.
skillet, then rolled or folded into an oval. Omelets may be fille d w ith a va rie ty o f ingredients before or a fte r rolling. ORGANIC LEAVENER: Yeast. A living organism acting to pro duce carbon dioxide gas, which w ill cause a b a tte r or dough to rise through the fe rm e n tatio n process. ORGAN MEAT: M eat fro m an organ, rather than the muscle tissue o f an animal. Includes brains, heart, kidneys, lungs, sweetbreads, trip e , and tongue.
NAVARIN: A French stew, tra d itio n a lly o f lamb, w ith potatoes, turnips, onions, and possibly o ther vegetables.
OVEN SPRING: The rapid in itia l rise o f yeast doughs when placed in a hot oven. Heat accelerates the grow th o f the
NEW POTATO: Any small young p o tato less than I V 2 in /4 cm in diameter, usually prepared by boiling or steaming, and
yeast, which produces more carbon dioxide gas, and also causes th is gas to expand.
o fte n eaten w ith its skin. The new p o ta to has not ye t con verted its sugar into starch, creating a waxy p o tato w ith a thin skin. NOISETTE: Hazelnut or hazelnut colored. Also, a small portion o f meat cut from the rib. Pommes no ise tte are tourneed p otatoes browned in butter. Beurre no ise tte is browned butter. NONBONY FISH: Fish whose skeletons are made o f cartilage rather than hard bone (e.g., shark, skate). Also called c a rti laginous fish. NOUVELLE CUISINE: Literally, “new cooking." A culinary move m ent emphasizing freshness and lightness o f ingredients, natural fla vo rs sim ply prepared, and innovative com bina tio n s and presentation. NUTRIENT: A basic com ponent o f fo o d used by the body fo r
PAELLA: A dish o f rice cooked w ith onion, tom ato, garlic, veg etables, and various meats, fish, or shellfish. A paella pan is a specialized pan; it is wide and shallow and usually has two loop handles. PAILLARD: A scallop o f meat pounded u n til thin; usually grilled or sauteed. PALETTE KNIFE: A small, long, narrow m etal spatula w ith a rounded tip . May be tapered or straight, o ffs e t or fla t. PAN BROILING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to dry sauteing th a t sim ulates b roiling by cooking an item in a hot pan w ith little or no fa t. PAN DRESSED: Portion-size whole fish w ith the guts, gills,
grow th, repair, restoration, and energy. Includes carbohy
and scales removed. The fin s and ta il may or may not be
drates, fa ts, proteins, water, vitam ins, and minerals.
trim m ed or removed.
NUTRITION: The process by which an organism takes in and uses food.
PAN FRY: To cook in fa t in a skillet; generally involves more fa t than sauteing or s tir-fry in g but less than deep frying. PAN GRAVY: A sauce made by deglazing pan drippings from a
o
roa st and combining them w ith a roux or o ther starch and
OBLIQUE CUT/ROLL CUT: A knife cut used prim a rily fo r long, cylindrical vegetables such as carrots, in which the item is cut on a diagonal, rolled 180 degrees, then cut on the same diagonal to produce a piece w ith tw o angled edges. OFFAL: Edible entrails and extre m itie s; v a rie ty meats, including organs (brains, heart, kidneys, lungs, sweetbreads, tripe , tongue), head meat, ta il, and fe e t. OFFSET SPATULA: A hand to o l w ith a wide, bent blade set in a sh o rt handle, used to tu rn or lif t foods fro m grills, broilers, or griddles. OIGNON BRULE: L iterally, “b urnt onion." A peeled, halved onion seared on a fla tto p or in a skillet, used to enhance the color o f stock and consomme.
GLOSSARY
additional stock. PAN STEAM: To cook foods in a very small amount o f liquid in a covered pan over dire ct heat. PAPILLOTE, EN: A m oist-h e a t cooking method sim ilar to steaming, in which item s are enclosed in parchm ent and cooked in the oven. PARCHMENT: H e a t-re sista n t paper used to line baking pans, enclose item s to cook en papillote, and cover item s during shallow poaching. PARCOOK: To p a rtia lly cook an item before sto rin g or finishing. PARISIENNE SCOOP: A small to o l used fo r scooping balls out o f vegetables or fru its and fo r po rtio n in g tr u ffle ganache among oth er preparations. Also called a melon bailer.
PAR STOCK: The amount o f fo o d and o th er supplies necessary to cover operating needs between deliveries. PASTA: Literally, "dough” or"paste." Noodles made fro m a dough
PHYSICAL LEAVENER: The steam or air trapped in a dough th a t expands and causes the item to rise. PHYTOCHEMICALS: N aturally occurring compounds in
o f flo u r (ofte n semolina) and w a te r or eggs, kneaded,
plant fo o ds th a t have a ntioxidant and disease-fighting
rolled, and cut or extruded, then cooked by boiling.
properties.
PASTEURIZATION: A process in which m ilk products are heated to k ill m icroorganism s th a t could contam inate the milk. PASTRY BAG: A bag, usually made o f plastic, canvas, or nylon, th a t can be fitte d w ith plain or decorative tip s and used to pipe out icings and pureed foods. PATE: Noodles or pasta. Also, dough, paste, or b a tte r (as in pate brisee). PATE: A rich forcem eat o f meat, game, poultry, seafood, and/or vegetables, baked in pa stry or in a mold or dish and served hot or cold. PATE A CHOUX: Cream p u ff batter, made by boiling w a te r or milk, butter, and flour, then beating in whole eggs. When baked, pate a choux p u ffs to fo rm a hollowed pastry shell th a t can be fille d . PATE BRISEE: A sh o rt p a stry used to create crusts fo r pie crusts, ta rts , and quiches. PATE DE CAMPAGNE: C ountry-style pate w ith a coarse texture, made o f pork b u tt, chicken livers, garlic, onion, and parsley, flavored w ith brandy. PATE EN CROOt E: A pate baked in a pastry crust. PATE FEUILLETEE: P u ff pastry.
PICKLING SPICE: A m ixture o f herbs and spices used to season pickles. O ften includes dill weed and/or seed, coriander seed, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, and bay leaves, among others. PILAF: A technique fo r cooking grains in which the grain is sau teed b rie fly in butter, then sim mered in stock or w ater w ith seasonings u n til the liquid is absorbed. Also called pilau, pilaw, pullao, pilav. PINCE: Refers to an item , usually a to m a to product, caramel ized by sauteing. PLUCHES: Whole herb leaves connected to a small b it o f stem; o fte n used as a garnish. Also called sprigs. POACH: To cook g ently in sim m ering liquid a t 160° to 1 8 5 °F /7 1 °to 85°C. POELE: Refers to fo o d cooked in its own juices (usually w ith the addition o f a m atignon, o th er arom atics, and m elted b u t te r) in a covered pot, usually in the oven. Also called b u tte r roasting. POISSONIER: Fish ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r fish item s and th e ir sauces; may be combined w ith the saucier position. POLENTA: Cornmeal mush cooked in sim m ering liquid u n til the grains so fte n and the liquid is absorbed. Can be eaten hot
PATE SUCREE: A sweet sh o rt pa stry used fo r pies, ta rts, and
or cold, firm or so ft.
fille d cookies. POLYUNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith more than one PATFIOGEN: A disease-causing m icroorganism. PATISSIER: Pastry ch e f/sta tio n . This position is responsible fo r baked item s, pastries, and desserts. O ften a separate area o f the kitchen. PAUPIETTE: A fille t or scallop o f fish or meat, rolled up around a s tu ffin g and poached or braised. PAYSANNE/FERMIER CUT: A knife cut in which the item is cut into fla t, square pieces V 2 in by V 2 in by Vs in / 1 cm by 1 cm by 3 mm. PEEL: A paddle used to tra n s fe r shaped doughs to a hearth or deck oven. Also, to remove the skin fro m a fo o d item. PESTO: A th ic k pureed m ixture o f an herb, tra d itio n a lly basil and oil. Used as a sauce fo r pasta and o ther foods and as a garnish fo r soup. Pesto may also contain grated cheese, nuts or seeds, and o th e r seasonings. PETIT FOUR: A fancy bite-size layered cake covered in fondant.
available bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. Food sources include corn, cottonseed, safflow er, soy, and sunflow er oils. PORT: A fo rtifie d dessert wine. Vintage p o rt is high-quality unblended wine aged in the b o ttle fo r a t least tw elve years. Ruby p o rt may be blended, and is aged in wood fo r a short tim e. W hite p o rt is made w ith w hite grapes. POT-AU-FEU: A classic French boiled dinner; typ ica lly includes p o u ltry and beef, along w ith various ro o t vegetables. The b ro th is o fte n served as a fir s t course, follow ed by the m eats and vegetables. PRAWN: A crustacean th a t closely resembles shrimp; often used as a general te rm fo r large shrimp. PRESENTATION SIDE: The side o f a piece o f meat, poultry, or fish th a t w ill be served facing up. PRESSURE STEAMER: A machine th a t cooks food using steam
Also, more generally can re fe r to bite-size pastries and
produced by heating w a te r under pressure in a sealed
cookies.
com partm ent, which allows it to reach tem peratures higher
PH SCALE: A scale w ith values fro m 0 to 14 representing de
than boiling (212°F/100°C). The fo o d is placed in a cham
gree o f acidity. A m easurem ent o f 7 is neutral, 0 is m ost
ber th a t is then sealed and cannot be opened u n til the pres
acidic and 14 is m ost alkaline. Chemically, pH measures the
sure has been released and the steam properly vented.
concentration o f hydrogen ions. PHYLLO/FILO DOUGH: Pastry made w ith very th in sheets o f a
PRIMAL CUTS: The large portions produced by the in itia l cu t tin g o f an animal carcass. Cuts are determ ined standards
flo u r-a n d -w a te r dough layered w ith b u tte r and/or bread or
th a t may vary by country and animal. Primal cuts are fu r
cake crumbs; sim ilar to strudel.
th e r broken down into smaller, more manageable cuts.
G LO S S A R Y
1179
PRINTANIERE: A garnish o f spring vegetables. PRIX FIXE: Literally, “fixe d price.” A type o f menu in which a com plete meal is o ffe re d fo r a preset price. The menu may o ffe r several choices fo r each course. PROOF: To allow yeast dough to rise. A p ro o f box is a sealed cabinet th a t allows co n tro l over both tem perature and hum idity. PROTEIN: One o f the basic n u trie n ts needed by the body to maintain life, supply energy, build and repair tissues, form
REMOUILLAGE: Literally, "rewetting.'’ A stock made from bones th a t have already been used fo r stock. Weaker than a firs tq u a lity stock, it is o fte n reduced to make glaze. RENDER: To m elt fa t and c la rify the drippings fo r use in saute ing or pan frying. REST: To allow fo o d to s it undisturbed a fte r roasting and be fo re carving; th is allows the juices to seep back into the m eat fib e rs. RICH DOUGH: A yeast dough th a t contains fa ts such as b u t
enzymes and hormones, and pe rfo rm o ther essential fu n c
te r and /o r egg yolks. May also contain sweeteners. Rich
tions. Protein can be obtained fro m animal and vegetable
doughs tend to produce more tender breads w ith a darker
sources.
crust than lean doughs.
PROVENQAL(E)/A LA PROVENCALE: Dishes prepared in the
RILLETTE: Potted meat; m eat cooked slowly in seasoned fat,
style o f Provence, France, o fte n w ith garlic, tom atoes, and
then shredded or pounded into a paste w ith some o f the
olive oil. May also contain anchovies, eggplant, mushrooms,
fa t. The m ixture is packed in ramekins and covered w ith a
olives, and onions.
thin layer o f fa t. O ften used as a spread.
PULSE: The edible seed o f a leguminous plant, such as a bean, lentil, or pea. O ften refe rre d to sim ply as legume. PUREE: To process fo o d by mashing, straining, or chopping it very fin e ly in order to make it a sm ooth paste. Also, a prod uct produced using th is technique.
RING TOP: A fla tto p w ith removable plates th a t can be opened to varying degrees to expose the cooking food to more or less heat. RISOTTO: Rice sauteed b rie fly in b u tte r w ith onions and pos sibly o th er arom atics, then combined w ith stock, which is added in several additions and stirre d constantly to pro
q
duce a creamy te xtu re w ith grains th a t are s till al dente.
QUAHOG/QUAHAUG: A hard-shell clam larger than 3 in / 8 cm in diameter, usually used fo r chowder or fritte rs . QUATRE EPICES: Literally, "fo u r spices." A fin e ly ground spice
ROE: Fish or shellfish eggs. ROLL-IN: B u tte r or a butter-based m ixture placed between lay
m ixture containing black peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon,
ers o f pastry dough, then rolled and folded repeatedly to
cloves, and som etim es ginger. Used to fla vo r soups, stews,
fo rm numerous layers. When the dough is baked, the layers
and vegetables.
remain discrete, producing a very flaky, rich pastry.
QUENELLE: A lig h t poached dumpling based on a forcem eat (usually chicken, veal, seafood, or game) bound w ith eggs, and shaped in an oval by using tw o spoons. QUICK BREAD: Bread made w ith chemical leaveners, which w ork more quickly than yeast because they require no kneading or fe rm e n tatio n . Also called b a tte r bread.
RONDEAU: A shallow, wide, straig h t-sid e d p o t w ith tw o loop handles; o fte n used fo r braising. RONDELLE: A knife cut used on cylindrical vegetables or items trim m ed into cylinders before cutting; produces fla t round or oval pieces. ROTISSEUR: Roast ch e f/sta tio n . The position is responsible fo r all roasted foods and related sauces.
r
ROULADE: A slice o f meat or fish rolled around a stu ffin g . Also,
RAFT: A m ixture o f ingredients used to c la rify consomme. Refers to the fa c t th a t the ingredients rise to the surface and fo rm a flo a tin g mass.
a fille d and rolled sponge cake. ROUND: A cut o f be e f fro m the hind quarter th a t includes the to p and b o tto m round, eye, and to p sirloin. It is lean and
RAGOUT: A stew o f meat and/or vegetables.
usually braised or roasted. Also, in baking, to shape pieces
RAMEKIN/RAMEQUIN: A small ovenproof dish, usually ceramic.
o f yeast dough into balls; th is process stretches and relax
REACH-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit or se t o f units w ith pass-through doors. O ften used in the pantry area fo r
es the gluten and ensures even rising and a sm ooth crust. ROUND FISH: A cla ssification o f fish based on skeletal type,
storage o f salads, cold hors d’oeuvre, and oth er freq u e n tly
characterized by a rounded body and eyes on opposite
used items.
sides o f the head. Round fish are usually cut by the up and
REDUCE: To decrease the volume o f a liquid by sim m ering or boiling. Used to provide a th icke r consistency and /o r con centrated flavors. REDUCTION: The product th a t results when a liquid is reduced. REFRESH: To plunge an item into, or run it under, cold w ater a fte r blanching to prevent fu rth e r cooking. Also known as shock.
1180
ROAST: To cook by dry heat in an oven or on a s p it over a fire.
G LO S S A R Y
over method. ROUX: An appareil containing equal parts o f flo u r and fa t (usually butter), used to thicken liquids. Roux is cooked to varying degrees (white, blond, brown, or dark), depending on its intended use. The darker the roux, the less thickening power it has but the fu lle r the taste. ROYALE: A consomme garnish made o f unsweetened cooked custard cut in to decorative shapes.
RUB: A com bination o f spices and herbs applied to foods as a
SAVORY: N ot sweet. Also, the name o f a course served a fte r
marinade or fla v o rfu l crust. Dry rubs are generally based
d essert and before p o rt in tra d itio n a l B ritish meals. Also, a
upon spices; w e t rubs (som etim es known as mops) may
fa m ily o f herbs (including summer and w in te r savory) th a t
include m oist ingredients such as fresh herbs, vegetables,
ta ste like a cross between thym e and mint.
and fr u it juice or broth, if necessary, to make a pasty consistency. Rubs are absorbed into the m eat to create a g re a te r depth o f flavor.
s
SCALD: To heat a liquid, usually m ilk or cream, to ju s t below the boiling point. May also r e fe r to b la n ch in gfru its and vegetables. SCALE: To measure ingredients by weighing, or to divide dough or b a tte r into p o rtio n s by weight. Also, to remove the
5ABAYON: A custard o f sweetened egg yolks flavored w ith Marsala or o th er wine or liqueur, beaten in a double boiler until fro th y . In Italian, zabaglione. SACHET D'EPICES: L iterally, "bag o f spices.” A rom atic ingre dients encased in cheesecloth, used to fla vo r stocks and oth er liquids. A standard sachet contains parsley stems, cracked peppercorns, dried thyme, and a bay leaf. SALT COD: Cod th a t has been salted and dried to preserve it. SALTPETER: Potassium n itra te . A com ponent o f curing salt, used to preserve meat. It gives certain cured meats th e ir characteristic pink color. SANITATION: The maintenance o f a clean fo o d preparation environm ent by healthy fo o d w orkers in order to prevent food-borne illnesses and fo o d contam ination. SANITIZE: To k ill pathogenic organisms by chemicals and/or m oist heat. SASHIMI: Sliced raw fish, served w ith such condim ents as a julienne o f daikon radish, pickled ginger, wasabi, and soy sauce. SATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule whose available bonding sites are e n tire ly fille d w ith hydrogen atoms. These tend to be solid a t room tem perature and are p rim arily o f animal o ri
scales fro m fish. SCALER: A to o l used to scrape scales from fish. Used by scrap ing against the directio n in which scales lie fla t, working fro m ta il to head. SCALLOP: A bivalve whose adductor muscle (the muscle th a t keeps its shells closed) and roe are eaten. Also, a small boneless piece o f m eat or fish o f uniform thickness. Also, a side dish in which an item is layered w ith cream or sauce and topped w ith bread crumbs p rior to baking. SCORE: To cut the surface o f an item at regular intervals to allow it to cook evenly, allow excess fa t to drain, help the fo o d absorb marinades, or fo r decorative purposes. SCRAPPLE: A boiled m ixture o f pork trim m ings, buckwheat, and cornm eal compressed into a loaf, chilled, and sliced. It is o fte n frie d a fte r chilling and served fo r breakfast. SEAR: To brown the surface o f food in fa t over high heat before fin ish in g by another m ethod (e.g., braising or roasting) in order to add flavor. SEA SALT: S alt produced by evaporating seawater. Available refined or unrefined, crystallized or ground. Also known as sel gris (French fo r “gray sa lt”). SEASONING: Adding an ingredient to give foods a particular
gin, including butter, meat, cheese, and eggs; coconut oil,
flavor, using salt, pepper, herbs, spices, and/or condiments.
palm oil, and cocoa b u tte r are vegetable sources.
Also, the process by which a p ro te ctive coating is b u ilt up
SAUCE: A liquid accompanim ent to food, used to enhance the fla v o r o f the food. SAUCE VIN BLANC: L iterally, "w hite wine sauce." A sauce made by combining a reduced poaching liquid (typica lly contain ing wine) w ith prepared hollandaise, veloute, or diced butter. SAUCIER: Saute ch e f/sta tio n . The position responsible fo r all sauteed item s and th e ir sauces. SAUSAGE: A fo rce m e a t m ixture shaped into p a ttie s or links, ty p ic a lly highly seasoned; originally made to preserve the m eat and use edible trim . Made from ground meat, fa t, and seasonings. Sausage varies in size, shape, curing tim e, and typ e o f casing. SAUTE: To cook quickly in a small amount o f fa t in a pan on the stovetop. SAUTEUSE: A shallow s k ille t w ith sloping sides and a single long handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as a saute pan. SAUTOIR: A shallow s k ille t w ith stra ig h t sides and a single long handle. Used fo r sauteing. Referred to generically as a
on the in te rio r o f a pan. SEMOLINA: The hard durum wheat endosperm used fo r gnocchi, bread, couscous, and pasta. Semolina has a high gluten content. SHALLOW POACH: To cook an item gently in a shallow pan, barely covered w ith sim m ering liquid. The liquid is often reduced and used as the base o f a sauce. SHEET PAN: A fla t baking pan, o fte n w ith a rolled lip, used to cook foods in the oven. SHELF LIFE: The amount o f tim e in storage th a t a product can m aintain its quality. SHELLFISH: Various typ e s o f marine life consumed as food, in cluding m ollusks such as univalves, bivalves, cephalopods, and crustaceans. SHERRY: A fo rtifie d Spanish wine; varies in color and sweetness. SHIRRED EGG: An egg cooked w ith b u tte r (and often cream) in a ramekin un til the w hites are set. SIEVE: A container made o f a p e rfo ra te d m aterial such as wire mesh, used to drain or puree foods.
saute pan.
GLOSSARY
ll8 l
SILVERSKIN: The tough connective tissue th a t surrounds cer
SOURDOUGH: A yeasted bread dough leavened using a non-
tain muscles. This protein does not dissolve when cooked
com m ercially produced fe rm ented starter. Also refers to
and m ust be removed p rior to cooking.
a naturally leavened bread th a t contains no commercial
SIMMER:To m aintain the tem perature o f a liquid ju s t be low boiling. Also, to cook immersed in liquid at 185° to 2 0 0 °F /8 5 °to 9 3 °C . SIMPLE CARBOHYDRATE: Any o f a number o f small carbohy drate molecules (mono- and disaccharides) including glu cose, fructose, lactose, m altose, and sucrose. SIMPLE SYRUP: A m ixture o f w a te r and sugar (with additional flavorings or arom atics as desired), heated u n til the sugar dissolves. Used to m oisten cakes and to poach fru its. SINGLE-STAGE TECHNIQUE: Cooking involving only one cook ing method (e.g., boiling or sauteing), as opposed to more than one method, as in braising. SKIM: To remove im p uritie s during cooking fro m the surface o f a liquid such as stock or soup. SKIM MILK: M ilk from which all but 0.5 percent o f the m ilk fa t has been removed. SLURRY: A starch, such as arrow root, cornstarch, or p otato
yeast. SOUS CHEF: Literally, "under chef." The chef who is second in command in a kitchen; usually responsible fo r scheduling, fillin g in fo r the executive chef, and assisting the chefs de partie as necessary. SPATZLE: A s o ft noodle or small dum pling made by dropping b its o f a prepared b a tte r into sim m ering liquid. SPIDER: A long-handled skim m er used to remove item s from hot liquid or fa t and to skim the surface o f liquids. SPIT-ROAST: To roa st an item on a large skewer or sp it over, or in fro n t of, an open flam e or o ther radiant heat source. SPONGE: A th ick yeast batter, allowed to fe rm e n t and develop a lig h t consistency and then combined w ith other ingredi ents to fo rm a yeast dough. SPONGE CAKE: A sw e e tfoa m e d cake leavened w ith beaten egg foam . Also called genoise. SPRINGFORM PAN: A round straight-sided pan whose sides
starch, dispersed in cold liquid to prevent it fro m form ing
are form ed by a hoop th a t can be unclamped and detached
lumps when added to hot liquid as a thickener.
fro m its base. P rim arily used fo r cheesecakes and mousse
SMALL SAUCE: A sauce th a t is a derivative o f any o f the “grand" sauces. SMOKE POINT: The tem perature at which a fa t begins to break down and smoke when heated.
cakes. STABILIZER: An ingredient (usually a protein or plant product; e.g., egg yolks, cream, or m ustard) added to an emulsion to prevent it fro m separating. Also, an ingredient such as gelatin or gum, used in various desserts (e.g., Bavarian
SMOKER: An enclosed area in which fo o ds are held on racks or
creams) to prevent them from separating.
hooks and allowed to remain in a smoke bath at an appro priate tem perature.
STANDARD BREADING PROCEDURE: The assembly-line proce dure in which item s are dredged in flour, dipped in beaten
SMOKE ROASTING: A m ethod o f roasting foods in which item s are placed on a rack in a pan containing wood chips th a t
egg, then coated w ith crumbs before being pan frie d or deep fried .
smolder, e m ittin g smoke, when the pan is placed on the stovetop or in the oven.
STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS: A fa cu lta tive bacteria th a t can cause food-borne illness. It is p a rticu la rly dangerous be
SMOKING: Any o f several m ethods fo r preserving and fla v o r ing foods by exposing them to smoke. M ethods include cold smoking (in which smoked item s are not fu lly cooked),
cause it produces toxins th a t cannot be destroyed by heat. Staph in to xica tio n is m ost o fte n caused by tra n sfe r o f the bacteria from in fe cted fo o d handlers.
hot smoking (in which the item s are cooked), and smoke roasting.
STEAK: A portion-size (or larger) cut o f meat, poultry, or fish made by c u ttin g across the grain o f a muscle or a muscle
SMOTHER: To cook in a lidded pan w ith little liquid over low
group. May be boneless or bone in.
heat. The main item is o fte n com pletely covered by another food item or sauce while it cooks.
STEAM: To cook item s in a vapor bath created by boiling water or other liquids.
SODIUM: An alkaline m etal elem ent necessary in small q uanti tie s fo r human n u tritio n ; one o f the com ponents o f most salts used in cooking.
STEAMER: A set o f stacked pots w ith p e rfo ra tion s in the b o t tom o f each pot. They f i t over a larger po t fille d w ith boil ing or sim m ering water. Also, a perfo ra te d insert made of
SOMMELIER: Wine stew ard or w aiter. Helps diners select wine
m etal or bamboo, used in a pot to steam foods.
and serves it. Responsible fo r the restaurant's wine cellar. STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE: A ke ttle w ith double-layered walls SORBET: A frozen dessert made w ith fr u it juice or another base, a sweetener (usually sugar), and beaten egg whites, which prevent the fo rm a tio n o f large ice crystals. SOUFFLE: Literally, "puffed.” A preparation made w ith a sauce base (usually bechamel fo r savory souffles, pastry cream fo r sweet ones), whipped egg w hites, and flavorings. The egg w hites cause the so u ffle to p u ff during cooking.
1182
G LO S S A R Y
w ithin which steam circulates to provide even heat fo r cooking stocks, soups, and sauces. These ke ttle s may be insulated, spigoted, a nd/or tiltin g . The la tte r are also called trunnion kettles. STEEL: A to o l used to hone knife blades. It is usually made o f steel but may be ceramic, glass, or diam ond-im pregnated metal.
STEEP: To allow an ingredient to s it in warm or hot liquid to e x tra c t fla vo r or im purities, or to so fte n the item. STEWING: A cooking m ethod nearly identical to braising but generally involving sm aller pieces o f meat and hence a sh o rte r cooking tim e. Stewed item s also may be blanched rather than seared, to give the finished product a pale
its tem perature. May also re fe r to the proper method fo r m elting chocolate. TEMPURA: Seafood and/or vegetables coated w ith a light b a t te r and deep fried , usually accompanied by a sauce. TENDERLOIN: A boneless cut o f meat, usually beef or pork, from the loin; usually the m ost tender and expensive cut.
color. TERRINE: A lo a f o f fo rce m e a t sim ilar to a pate, but cooked in a STIR-FRYING: A cooking m ethod sim ilar to sauteing, in which item s are cooked over very high heat, using little fa t and
covered mold in a bain-marie. Also, the mold used to cook such item s, usually an oval shape, made o f ceramic.
kept moving constantly. Usually done in a wok. THERMOPHILIC: Heat-loving. Used to describe bacteria STOCK: A fla v o rfu l liquid prepared by sim m ering meat bones, p o u ltry bones, seafood bones, a nd/or vegetables in w ater
th a t th rive w ith in the tem perature range from 1 1 0 ° to 171°F/4B° to 77°C.
w ith arom atics u n til th e ir fla vo r is extracted. Used as a base fo r soups, sauces, and o ther preparations.
THICKENER: An in gredient used to give additional body to liq uids. A rrow ro o t, cornstarch, gelatin, roux, and beurre manie
STOCKPOT: A large, straig h t-sid e d pot, ta lle r than it is wide.
are examples.
Used fo r making stocks and soups. Some have spigots; these are also called marm ites.
TILTING KETTLE: A large, tiltin g pot used fo r stewing and oc casionally steaming.
STONE GROUND: A te rm used to describe meal or flo u r milled between grindstones. Because the germ o f the wheat is not separated, th is m ethod o f grinding retains more n utrients than oth er methods. STRAIGHT FORCEMEAT: A fo rce m e a t combining lean m eat and fa t by grinding the m ixture together. STRAIGHT-MIX METHOD: The dough-m ixing method in which all ingredients are combined all a t once by hand or machine. STRAIN: To pass a liquid through a sieve or screen to remove particles.
TILT SKILLET: A large, relative ly shallow, tiltin g pan w ith a large surface area. Can be used fo r braising, sauteing, or stewing. TIMBALE: A small pail-shaped mold used to shape rice, cus tards, mousselines, and o ther items. Also, a preparation made in such a mold. TOMALLEY: Lob ste r liver, which is olive green in color and used in sauces and o th e r items. TOMATO SAUCE: A sauce prepared by sim mering tom atoes in a liquid (w ater or broth) w ith arom atics. One o f the “grand” sauces.
SUPREME: The breast fille t and wing o f chicken or o ther poul try . Sauce supreme is chicken veloute enriched w ith cream.
TOTAL UTILIZATION: The principle advocating the use o f as much o f a p roduct as possible in order to reduce waste and
SWEAT: To cook an item , usually vegetable(s), in a covered pan in a sm all amount o f fa t u n til it softens and releases m ois tu re but does not brown.
increase p ro fits. TOURNANT: Roundsman or swing cook; a kitchen s ta ff member who works as needed throughout the kitchen.
SWEETBREADS: The thym us glands o f young animals, usu ally calves but also lambs or pigs. Usually sold in pairs. Sweetbreads have a m ild fla v o r and sm ooth texture. They m ust be soaked in acidulated w a te r p rio r to cooking and the ou ter membrane m ust be removed. SWISS: To pound meat, usually beef, w ith flo u r and seasonings, breaking up the muscle fib e rs and tenderizing the meat. SYRUP: Sugar dissolved in liquid, usually water, possibly w ith the addition o f flavorings such as spices or citrus zests.
TOURNER: To cut item s, usually vegetables, into a barrel, olive, or fo o tb a ll shape. Tourneed fo o ds should have five or seven sides or faces and blunt ends. TOXIN: A naturally occurring poison, p a rticu la rly those pro duced by the m etabolic a c tiv ity o f living organisms such as bacteria. TRANCHE: A slice or cut o f meat, fish, or p o u ltry cut on a bias to visually increase the appearance o f the cut. TRICHINELLA SPIRALIS: A spiral-shaped parasitic worm th a t
t
invades the in te stin es and muscle tissue. Transmitted p rim a rily through in fe cted pork th a t has not been cooked
TABLE D'HOTE: A fixe d -p rice menu w ith a single price fo r an
su fficie n tly.
e ntire meal based on the entree selection. TRIPE: The edible stomach lining o f a cow or o ther ruminant. TABLE SALT: Refined granulated salt. May be fo rtifie d w ith iodine and tre a te d w ith magnesium carbonate to prevent
Honeycomb trip e comes fro m the second stomach and has a honeycom b-like appearance.
clumping. TRUSS: To tie up m eat or p o u ltry w ith string before cooking it, TART: A shallow straig h t-sid e d pastry crust (may be flu te d or plain), fille d w ith a savory or sweet, fresh and/or cooked
to give it a com pact shape fo r more even cooking and b e t te r appearance.
fillin g . Also, describes something, very acidic or sour. TUBER: The fle sh y root, stem, or rhizome o f a plant, able to TEMPER: To heat gently and gradually. May re fe r to the process o f incorporating hot liquid into a liaison to gradually raise
grow into a new plant. Some, such as potatoes, are eaten as vegetables.
G LO S S A R Y
1183
TUILE: Literally, "tile.” A thin w a fe r-like cookie or fo o d cut to
VITAMINS: Any o f various n u tritio n a lly essential organic sub
resemble th is cookie. Tuiles are fre q u e n tly shaped while
stances th a t do not provide energy but usually act as regu
s till warm and pliable by pressing them into molds or drap
lators in m etabolic processes and help maintain health.
ing them over rolling pins or dowels. TUNNELING: A fa u lt in baked goods th a t may occur due to overm ixing or by not fu lly incorporating a chemical leaven-
w WAFFLE: A crisp, pancake-like b a tte r product, cooked on a
er, among oth er reasons. The finished product w ill contain
specialized griddle th a t gives the finished product a tex-
large holes (tunnels).
tu re d pattern, usually a grid. Also, a special vegetable cut th a t produces a grid or basket-weave pattern. Also known as g a u fre tte .
UMAMI: Describes a savory, m eaty ta ste ; o fte n associated w ith
WALK-IN REFRIGERATOR: A re frig e ra tio n unit large enough to
m onosodium glutam ate (MSG) and mushrooms.
walk into. It is occasionally large enough to m aintain zones o f d iffe re n t tem peratures and hum idity to sto re a variety
UNIVALVE: A single-shelled, single-m uscle m ollusk such as
o f fo o ds properly. Some have reach-in doors as well. Some
abalone and sea urchin.
are large enough to accomm odate rolling carts as well as UNSATURATED FAT: A fa t molecule w ith a t least one available
many shelves o f goods.
bonding site not fille d w ith a hydrogen atom. May be mono unsaturated or polyunsaturated. Tends to be liquid a t room
WASABLThe ro o t o f an Asian plant sim ilar to horseradish. It becomes b rig h t green when mixed w ith water. Used as a
tem perature. Prim arily o f vegetable origin.
condim ent in Japanese cooking.
V
WHEY: The liquid le ft a fte r curds have form ed in milk.
VANILLA SAUCE: A s tirre d custard made w ith cream and/or
WHIP/WHISK: To beat an item , such as cream or egg whites, to incorporate air. Also, a special to o l fo r whipping made o f
milk, sugar, eggs, and vanilla. May be served as a sauce or
looped wire attached to a handle.
used in pastry preparations such as Bavarian cream and ice cream. Also known as creme anglaise.
WHITE CHOCOLATE: Cocoa b u tte r flavored w ith sugar and m ilk solids. It does not contain any cocoa solids, so it does not
VARIETY MEAT: M eat from a p a rt o f an animal o ther than the muscle (e.g., organ meats). Variety m eats include tongue,
have the characteristic brown color th a t regular chocolate
liver, brains, kidneys, sweetbreads, and tripe . Also called
has.
offal.
WHITE MIREPOIX: M irepoix th a t does not include carrots, and may include chopped mushrooms or mushroom trim m ings
VEGETABLE SOUP: A b ro th - or w ater-based soup made p ri
and parsnips. Used fo r pale or w h ite sauces and stocks.
m arily w ith vegetables; may include meats, legumes, and noodles and may be clear or thick.
WHITE STOCK: A light-colored stock made w ith bones th a t have not been browned.
VEGETARIAN: An individual who has adopted a specific d ie t th a t elim inates m eat and fish and products derived from m eat and fish but not all animal products. Lacto-ovo-
WHOLE GRAIN: An unmilled or unprocessed grain. WHOLE WHEAT FLOUR: Flour m illed from the whole grain in
vegetarians include dairy products and eggs in th e ir diet;
cluding the bran, germ, and endosperm.
ovo-vegetarians include eggs. Vegans eat no fo o ds derived in any way fro m animals.
WOK: A round-bottom ed pan, usually made o f rolled steel, used in Asian cuisine fo r nearly all cooking methods. Its
VELOUTE: A sauce o f w h ite stock (chicken, veal, or seafood)
shape allows fo r even heat d istrib u tio n and easy tossing o f
thickened w ith w hite roux. One o f the “grand" sauces. Also,
ingredients.
a cream soup made w ith a veloute sauce base and fla v o r ings (usually pureed), usually finished w ith a liaison. VENISON: M eat from large game animals in the deer fam ily, but o fte n used to re fe r specifically to deer meat.
y
YAM: A large tu b e r th a t grows in tro p ica l and subtropical cli mates; it has starchy pale-yellow flesh. The name "yam” is
VERTICAL CHOPPING MACHINE (VCM): A machine sim ilar to a
also used fo r the botanically unrelated sweet potato.
blender th a t has ro ta tin g blades used to grind, whip, emul sify, or blend foods.
YEAST: M icroscopic organism whose m etabolic processes are responsible fo r fe rm e n tatio n . It is used fo r leavening bread
VINAIGRETTE: A cold sauce o f oil and vinegar, usually w ith va ri
and in the m aking o f beer and wine.
ous flavorings. It is a tem porary emulsion. The standard p ro portion is three parts o il to one p a rt vinegar.
YOGURT: M ilk cultured w ith bacteria to give it a slig h tly thick consistency and sour flavor.
VIRUS: A typ e o f pathogenic m icroorganism th a t can be tra n s m itte d in food. Viruses cause illnesses such as measles, chicken pox, in fe ctio us h epatitis, and colds.
z ZEST: The thin, b rig h tly colored o uter p a rt o f citrus rind. It con tains vo la tile oils, m aking it ideal fo r use as a flavoring.
1184
G LO S S A R Y
readings and resources food history Am erican Food: The G astronom ic Story. 3rd ed. Evan Jones. Overlook Press, 1990. “A Woman's Place Is in the Kitchen": The Evolution o f Women Chefs. Ann Cooper. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1998. Cod: A Biography o f the Fish That Changed the World. M ark Kurlansky. W alker and Co., 1997. Consuming Passions: The A nthropology o f Eating. Peter Farb and George Arm elagos. Houghton M ifflin , 1980. Culture and Cuisine: A Journey Through the H isto ry o f Food. Jean-Frangois Revel. Translated by Helen R. Lane. Da Capo Press, 1984. The D eipnosophists (Banquet o f the Learned). Athenaeus o f Naucratis. Translated by C. D. Yonge. London: Henry G. Bohn, 1854. Eating in Am erica: A H istory. Waverley Root and Richard de Rochemont. Ecco, 1981. Fabulous Feasts: M edieval Cookery and Ceremony. Madeleine Pelner Cosman. Braziller, 1976. Food and Drink Through the Ages, 2 5 0 0 BC to 1 9 3 7 AD. Barbara Feret. London: Maggs Brothers, 1937. Food in H istory. Reay Tannahill. Crown Publishers, 1989.
M odern Kitchen. Apicius. Translated by John Edwards. London: H artley 6 Marks, 1984. The Travels o f M arco Polo. Maria Bellonci. Translated by Teresa Waugh. Facts on File, 1984. Why We Eat W hat We Eat: How the Encounter Between the New W orld and the Old Changed the Way Everyone on the Planet Eats. Raymond Sokolov. Simon & Schuster, 1992.
sanitation and safety A p plied Foodservice S a n ita tio n Textbook. 4th ed. Educational Foundation o f the National Restaurant Association, 1992. HACCP Reference Book. Educational Foundation o f the N ational R estaurant Association, 1993.
chemistry of cooking CookWise: The Hows & Why s o f Successful Cooking; The Secrets o f Cooking Revealed. Shirley Corriher. Morrow, 1997. The Curious Cook: M ore Kitchen Science and Lore. Harold McGee. M acmillan, 1992.
G astronomy: The A nthropology o f Food and Food Habits. M argaret L. A m o tt, ed. The Hague: M outon, 1975.
The E xperim ental Study o f Food. 2nd ed. Ada M arie Campbell, M arjorie P orter Penfield, and Ruth M. Griswold. Constable and Co., 1979.
Kitchen and Table: A Bedside H isto ry o f Eating in the W estern World. Colin Clair. Abelard-Schuman, 1965.
Foods: A S c ie n tific Approach. 3rd ed. Helen Charley, Connie M. Weaver. Prentice Hall, 1997.
Much Depends on Dinner: The E xtra o rd in a ry H isto ry and M ythology, A llure and Obsessions, Perils and Taboos, o f an O rdinary M eal. M argaret Visser. Grove Press, 1987.
On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore o f the Kitchen. Harold McGee. Scribner, 2004.
Our Sustainable Table. Robert Clark, ed. North Point Press, 1990.
equipment and mise en place
The Pantropheon: or, A H isto ry o f Food and Its P reparation in A ncient Times. Alexis Soyer. London: Paddington Press, 1977.
The Chef's Book o f Formulas, Yields and Sizes. 3rd ed. Arno Schm idt. Wiley, 2003.
Platina: On R ight Pleasure and Good Health: A C ritica l Edition and Translation o f "De H onesta Voluptate e t Valetudine." M ary Ella Milham, ed. Renaissance Tapes, 1998. The R ituals o f Dinner: The Origins, Evolution, Eccentricities, and Meanings o f Table Manners. M argaret Visser. Penguin, 1992. The Roman Cookery o fA p iciu s: A Treasury o f Gourm et Recipes and Herbal Cookery, Translated and A dapted fo r the
Food Equipm ent Facts: A Handbook fo r the Foodservice Industry. Revised and updated. Carl Scriven and James Stevens. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1989. The New Cook's Catalogue. Emily Aronson, Florence Fabricant, and B u rt W olf. Knopf, 2000. The Professional Chefs Knife Kit. 2nd ed.The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Wiley, 1999. The W illiam s-Sonom a Cookbook and Guide to Kitchenware. Chuck W illiam s. Random House, 1986.
R E A D IN G S A N D RESOURCES
general product identification
MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME
DICTIONARIES AND ENCYCLOPEDIAS
The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to M ea t Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Thomas Schneller. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2009.
Asian Ingredients: A Guide to the F oo d stu ffs o f China, Japan, Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam. Bruce Cost. Harper Perennial, 2000. The Cambridge W orld H isto ry o f Food. Kenneth F. Kiple and Kriem hild Conee Ornelas, eds. Cambridge U niversity Press, 2000. The Chef’s Companion: A Concise D ictionary o f Culinary Terms. 3rd ed. Elizabeth Riely. Wiley, 2003.
The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to P oultry Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Thomas Schneller. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2009. The M ea t Buyers Guide. National Association o f M eat Purveyors, 2010. The M ea t We Eat. 14th ed. John R. Romans e t al. Prentice Hall, 2001.
A Concise Encyclopedia o f G astronomy. Andre Simon. Overlook Press, 1981.
FISH AND SHELLFISH
Cook's Ingredients. Adrian Bailey, Elisabeth Lam bert Ortiz, and Helena Radecka. Bantam Books, 1980.
The Com plete Cookbook o f Am erican Fish and Shellfish. 2nd ed. John F. Nicolas. Wiley, 1989.
The Encyclopedia o f Am erican Food and Drink. John F. M ariani. Lebhar-Friedman, 1999.
The Encyclopedia o f Fish Cookery. A. J. McClane. Holt, Rinehart & W inston, 1977.
The Encyclopedia o f Asian Food and Cooking. Jacki Passmore. Hearst, 1991.
Fish and Shellfish. James Peterson. Morrow, 1996.
The Ethnic Food Lover's Companion, Understanding the Cuisines o f the World. Eve Z iba rt. Menasha Ridge Press,
2001 .
The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to Fish and Seafood Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Mark Ainsworth. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2009. McClane's Fish Buyer's Guide. A. J. McClane. Henry Holt, 1990.
Food. Andre Simon. Horizon Press, 1953. Food. W averley Root. Simon and Schuster, 1980.
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
G astronomy. Jay Jacobs. Newsweek Books, 1975.
The Foodservice Guide to Fresh Produce. Produce M arketing Association. Produce M arketing Association, 1987.
Gastronomy o f France. Raymond Oliver. Translated by Claud Durrell. Wine & Food Society w ith World Publishing, 1967. Gastronomy o f Italy. Revised ed. Anna Del Conte. Pavilion Books, 2004. Knight's Foodservice D ictionary. John B. Knight. Edited by Charles A. Salter. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1987. Larousse Gastronomique. Jenifer Harvey Lang, ed. Potter,
2001 . The M aste r D ictionary o f Food and Wine. 2nd ed. Joyce Rubash. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1996. The Deluxe Food Lover's Companion. 4 th ed. Sharon Tyler Herbst and Ron Herbst. Barron's, 2009. The O xford Companion to Food 2nd ed. Alan Davidson, Tom Jaine, Jane Davidson, Helen Saberi. O xford U niversity Press, 2006. Patisserie: An Encyclopedia o f Cakes, Pastries, Cookies, Biscuits, Chocolate, Confectionery and Desserts. Aaron Maree. HarperCollins, 1994. The Penguin A tla s o f Food: Who Eats What, Where, and Why. Erik M illstone and Tim Lang. Penguin, 2003. Tastings: The Best from Ketchup to Caviar: 31 Pantry Basics and How They Rate w ith the Experts. Jenifer Harvey Lang. Crown, 1986. The Von Welanetz Guide to Ethnic Ingredients. Diana and Paul von Welanetz. Warner, 1987. The World Encyclopedia o f Food. L. P atrick Coyle. Facts on File, 1982.
The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to Produce Id e ntifica tio n , Fabrication, and U tiliza tio n . Brad M atthew s, Paul Wigsten. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2010. Charlie Trotter's Vegetables. Charlie Trotter. Ten Speed Press, 1996. Rodole’s Illu s tra te d Encyclopedia o f Herbs. Claire Kowalchik and W illiam H. Hylton, eds. Rodale Press, 1998. Roger Verge's Vegetables in the French Style. Roger Verge. Translated by Edward Schneider. Artisan, 1994. Uncommon F ru its and Vegetables: A Common sense Guide. Elizabeth Schneider. Morrow, 1998. Vegetables. James Peterson. Morrow, 1998. Veqetarian Cookinq fo r Everyone. Deborah Madison. Broadway Books, 1997.
CHEESES Cheese: A Guide to the W orld o f Cheese and Cheesemaking. Bruno B a ttis to tti. Facts on File, 1984. Cheese Buyer's Handbook. Daniel O'Keefe. McGraw-Hill, 1978. The Cheese Companion: The Connoisseur's Guide. 2nd ed. Judy Ridgway. Running Press, 2004. Cheese Primer. Steven Jenkins. Workman, 1996. The Kitchen Pro Series Guide to Cheese Id e ntifica tio n , Classification, and U tiliza tio n . John Fischer. Delmar Cengage Learning, 2010. The World o f Cheese. Evan Jones. Knopf, 1976.
1186
R E A D IN G S A N D RES O URCES
NONPERISHABLE GOODS
soups and sauces
The Book o f C offee and Tea. 2nd ed. Joel Schapira, David Schapira, and Karl Schapira. St. M artin's G riffin , 1996.
Sauces: Classical and Contem porary Sauce M aking 3rd ed. James Peterson. Wiley, 2008.
The Complete Book o f Spices: A Practical Guide to Spices and Arom atic Seeds. Jill Norman. Studio, 1995.
The Saucier's Apprentice: A Modern Guide to Classic French Sauces fo r the Home. Raymond A. Sokolov. Knopf, 1976.
La Technique. Jacques Pepin. Pocket, 1989.
Soups fo r the Professional Chef. Terence Janericco. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1993.
general and classical cookery
Splendid Soups. James Peterson. Wiley, 2001.
The A rt o f Charcuterie. Jane Grigson. Knopf, 1968. The Chef's Compendium o f P rofessional Recipes. 3rd ed. John Fuller and Edward Renold. Oxford, UK: B u tte rw o rth Heinemann, 1992.
nutrition and nutritional cookery
Classical Cooking the M odern Way. 3rd ed. Philip Pauli. Translated by Arno Schm idt. Wiley, 1999.
Choices fo r a Healthy H eart. Joseph C. Piscatella. Workman, 1987.
Cooking fo r the Professional Chef. Kenneth C. W olfe. Delmar, 1982.
Food and Culture in Am erica: A N u tritio n Handbook. Pamela Goyan K ittle r and Kathryn P. Sucher. Wadsworth, 1997.
The Cook's Book o f Essential Inform ation. Barbara Hill. Dell, 1990.
Handbook o f the N u tritio n a l Value o f Foods in Common Units. U.S. D epartm ent o f A griculture. Dover, 1986.
Cuisine Actuelle. V ic to r Gielisse. Taylor, 1992.
In Good Taste. V icto r Gielisse, M ary Kimbrough, and Kathryn G. Gielisse. Prentice-Hall, 1998.
Culinary A rtis try . Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1996. Dining in France. Christian Millau. Stew art, Tabori 6 Chang, 1986. E sco ffie n T h e Com plete Guide to the A r t o f M odern Cookery. Auguste Escoffier. Translated by H. L. Cracknell and R. J. Kaufmann. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1997. E sco ffie r Cookbook: A Guide to the Fine A rt o f Cooking. Auguste Escoffier. Crown, 1976.
The New M editerranean D iet Cookbook: A Delicious A lte rn a tive fo r Life lo n g Health. Nancy Harmon Jenkins. Bantam, 2008. The New Living H e a rt Diet. Michael E. DeBakey, Antonio M. G o tto Jr., Lynne W. Scott, and John P. Foreyt. Simon 6 Schuster, 1996. Spices, S a lt and A ro m a tics in the English Kitchen. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1970.
Essentials o f Cooking. James Peterson. Artisan, 2003.
N u tritio n : Concepts and Controversies. 12th ed. Eleanor R. W hitney and Frances S. Sizer. CT: Brooks/Cole, 2010.
Garde Manger: The A r t and C ro ft o f the Cold Kitchen. 3rd ed. The Culinary In s titu te o f America. Wiley, 2008.
The Professional Chef's Techniques o f H ealthy Cooking. 3rd ed. The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Wiley, 2000.
The Grand M asters o f French Cuisine. Selected and adapted by Celine Vence and R obert Courtine. Putnam, 1978. G reat Chefs o f France. Anthony Blake and Quentin Crewe. Harry N. Abrams, 1978. Guide Culinaire: The Com plete Guide to the A rt o f Modern Cooking. Auguste Escoffier. Translated by H. L. Cracknell and R. J. Kaufmann. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1997. In tro d u cto ry Foods. 13th ed. M arion Bennion. Prentice-Hall, 2009. Jacques Pepin's A r t o f Cooking. Jacques Pepin. 2 vols. Knopf, 1987 and 1988. James Beard's Theory and Practice o f Good Cooking. James Beard. Running Press, 1999. Jewish Cooking in Am erica. Joan Nathan. Knopf, 1998. Le R epertoire de la Cuisine. Louis Saulnier. Barron's, 1977. Ma G astronomie. Fernand Point. Translated by Frank Kulla and Patricia S. Kulla. Lyceum Books, 1974. Pates and Terrines. Friedrich W. Ehlert e t al. Hearst, 1984. Paul Bocuse's French Cooking. Paul Bocuse. Translated by C olette Rossant. Pantheon, 1977. The Physiology o f Taste, or M e d ita tio n s on Transcendental G astronomy. Jean-Anthelme B rillat-Savarin. Translated by M.F.K. Fisher. Counterpoint, 2000.
American cookery Charlie Trotter's. Charlie T rotter. Ten Speed Press, 1994. Chef Paul Prudhom m e’s Louisiana Kitchen. Paul Prudhomme. Morrow, 1984. Chez Panisse Cooking. Paul B e rto lli w ith Alice W aters. Peter Smith, 2001. C ity Cuisine. M ary Sue M illiken and Susan Feniger. Morrow, 1994. Epicurean Delight: The Life and Times o f James Beard. Evan Jones. Knopf, 1990. I Hear Am erica Cooking. B e tty Fussell. Penguin, 1997. Jasper W hite’s Cooking from New England. Jasper White. Biscuit Books, 1998. Jeremiah Tower's New Am erican Classics. Jeremiah Tower. Harper 6 Row, 1986. License to Grill. Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby. Morrow, 1997. The Mansion on Turtle Creek Cookbook. Dean Fearing. W eidenfeld 6 Nicholson, 1987. The New York Times Cookbook. Revised ed. Craig Claiborne. Morrow, 1990.
R E A D IN G S A N D RESOURCES
Saveur Cooks Au th e n tic Am erican: C elebrating the Recipes and Diverse Traditions o f Our Rich Heritage. The Editors o f Saveur Magazine. Chronicle, 2007. The Thrill o f the Grill: Techniques, Recipes 6 Down Home Barbecue. Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby. Morrow, 2002. The Trellis Cookbook. M arcel Desaulniers. Simon 6 Schuster, 1992.
Couscous and O ther Good Food from Morocco. Paula W olfert. Harper Perennial, 1987. C roatian Cuisine. Revised ed. Ruzica Kapetanovic and Alojzije Kapetanovic. Associated, 1993. The Czechoslovak Cookbook. Joza Brizova. Translated by Adrienna Vahala. Crown, 1965. The Food o f Italy. W averly Root. Atheneum. 1971. The Food o f N orth Italy: Authentic Recipes from Piedmont, Lombardy, and Valle d'Aosta. Luigi Veronelli. Tuttle, 2002.
international cookery
The Food o f Southern Italy. Carlo Middione. Morrow, 1987. The Foods and Wines o f Spain. Penelope Casas. Knopf, 1982.
LATIN AND CAR IB B E A N
La France Gastronomique. Anne Willan. Pavilion, 1991.
The A rt o f South Am erican Cooking. Felipe Rojas-Lombardi. HarperCollins, 1991.
French Provincial Cooking. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1999.
The Book o f Latin Am erican Cooking. Elisabeth Lam bert Ortiz. Ecco, 1994.
George Lang's Cuisine o f Hungary. George Lang. Wings, 1994.
The Essential Cuisines o f Mexico. Diana Kennedy. Clarkson Potter, 2000. Food and L ife o f Oaxaca. Zarela M artinez. Macmillan, 1997.
The Country Cooking o f France. Anne Willan. Chronicle, 2007.
The German Cookbook. M im i Sheraton. Random House, 1965. Giuliano Bugialli's Classic Techniques o f Italian Cooking. Giuliano Bugialli. Fireside, 1989. Greek Food. Rena Salaman. HarperCollins, 1994.
Food from My H eart: Cuisines o f Mexico Remembered and Reimagined. Zarela M artinez. M acmillan, 1992.
Ita lia n Food. Elizabeth David. Penguin, 1999.
Rick Boyless's M exican Kitchen. Rick Bayless. Scribner, 1996.
Ita lia n Regional Cooking. Ada Boni. Translated by Maria Langdale and Ursula Whyte. Bonanza Books, 1969.
The Taste o f Mexico. Patricia Quintana. Stew art, Tabori 6 Chang, 1986.
Lidia's Italian-A m erican Kitchen. Lidia M atticch io Bastianich. Knopf, 2001. A M editerranean Feast. C liffo rd W right. Morrow, 1999.
E U RO P EA N AN D M E D I T E R R A N E A N The A rt o f Turkish Cooking. Neset Eren. Hippocrene Books, 1993. The Belgian Cookbook. Nika Hazelton. Atheneum, 1977. The Best o f Southern Ita lia n Cooking. Jean Grasso F itzpatrick. Barron's, 1984. B istro Cooking. Patricia Wells. Workman, 1989. A Book o f M editerranean Food. 2nd revised ed. Elizabeth David. New York Review o f Books, 2002. Classical and Contem porary Italian Cooking fo r Professionals. Bruno Ellmer. Wiley, 1989. Classic French Cooking. Craig Claiborne, Pierre Franey, e t al. Tim e-Life Books, 1978. The Classic Food o f N orthern Italy. Anna Del Conte. Pavilion, 1995.
M editerranean Grains and Greens. Paula W olfert. HarperCollins, 1998. The New Book o f M iddle Eastern Food. Claudia Roden. Knopf, 2000. Pasta Classica: The A r t o f Ita lia n Pasta Cooking. Julia Della Croce. Chronicle, 1987. Paula W olfert's W orld o f Food: A Collection o f Recipes from Her Kitchen, Travels, and Friends. Paula W o lfe rt. Harper Perennial, 1995. Pierre Franey's Cooking in France. Pierre Franey and Richard Flaste. Knopf, 1994. Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook. Anya Von Bremzen. Workman, 1990. The Polish Cookbook. Z ofia Czerny. Vanous, 1982.
The Classic Italian Cookbook. M arcella Hazan. Knopf, 1976.
Regional French Cooking. Paul Bocuse. Flammarion, 1991.
Classic Scandinavian Cooking. Nika Hazelton. Galahad, 1994.
Roger Verge's Cuisine o f the South o f France. Roger Verge. Translated by Roberta W olfe Smoler. Morrow, 1980.
Classic Techniques o f Italian Cooking. Giuliano Bugialli. Simon 6 Schuster, 1982.
Simple Cuisine. Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Wiley, 1998.
The Cooking o f the Eastern M editerranean. Paula W o lfe rt. HarperCollins, 1994.
The Taste o f France: A D ictionary o f French Food and Wine. Fay Sharman. Houghton M ifflin , 1982.
The Cooking o f Italy. Waverly Root, e t al. Tim e-Life Books, 1968.
A Taste o f M orocco. Robert Carrier. C. N. Potter, 1987.
The Cooking o f Provincial France. M. F. K. Fisher, et al. TimeLife Books, 1968.
ASIAN
The Cooking o f S outhw est France: A C ollection o f Traditional and New Recipes from France's M a g n ifice n t Rustic Cuisine. Revised ed. Paula W o lfe rt. Wiley, 2005.
The Cooking o f Japan. Rafael S teinberg and the Editors o f Tim e-Life Books. T im e-Life Books, 1969.
Classic Indian Cooking. Julie Sahni. Morrow, 1980.
Cracking the Coconut: Classic Thai Home Cooking. Su-Mei Yu. M orrow, 2000.
1188
R E A D IN G S A N D RES O URCES
Cuisines o f India: The A rt and Tradition o f Regional Indian Cooking. Sm ita Chandra and Sanjeev Chandra. Ecco, 2001.
Food and Beverage Cost Control. Donald Bell. McCutchan, 1984.
Essentials o f Asian Cuisine: Fundam entals and F avorite Recipes. Corinne Trang. Simon & Schuster, 2003.
Foodservice Organizations: A M anagerial and Systems Approach. 6 th ed. Marian Spears. Prentice-Hall, 2007.
The Food o f Asia: Featuring Au th e n tic Recipes from M aste r Chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, M alaysia, The Philippines, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam . Forewords by M ingTsai and Cheong Liew; in tro d u c to ry essays by Kong Foong Ling. Periplus Editions,
Lessons in Excellence from Charlie T rotter. Paul Clarke. Ten Speed Press, 1999.
2002 . Food Culture in Japan. Michael Ashkenazi and Jeanne Jacob. Greenwood Press, 2003. The Food o f Korea: A u th e n tic Recipes from the Land o f M orning Calm. Texts by David Clive Price. Periplus Editions,
2002 . The Foods o f Vietnam . Nicole Routhier. S tew art, Tabori 6 Chang, 1989. Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen: A Cookbook. Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall. Ten Speed Press, 2001. Japanese Cooking: A Sim ple A rt. Shizuo Tsuji. Kodansha, 1980. The Joy o f Japanese Cooking. Kuwako Takahashi. C. E. Tuttle, 2002. M adhur Jaffrey's Far Eastern Cookery. Madhur Jaffrey. Perennial, 1992.
The M aking o f a Chef: M aste rin g the H eat a t the CIA. 2nd ed. Michael Ruhlman. Henry Holt, 2009. M ath Principles fo r Food Service Occupations. 3rd ed. Robert G. Haines. Delmar, 1996. M ath Workbook fo r Foodservice and Lodging. 3rd ed. Hollie W. Crawford and M ilto n McDowell. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1988. Principles o f Food, Beverage & Labor Cost Controls. 9th ed. Paul D ittm e ra n d J. Desmond Keefe III. Wiley, 2009. Principles o f M arketing. 13th ed. Philip K o tle ra nd Gary Arm strong. Prentice-Hall, 2009. P rofessional Table Service. Sylvia Meyer, Edy Schmid, and Christel Spuhler. Translated by Heinz Holtmann. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990. Recipes Into Type: A Handbook fo r Cookbook W riters and Editors. Joan W hitm an and Dolores Simon. HarperCollins, 1993.
M adhur Jaffrey's Indian Cooking. Madhur Jaffrey. Barron's, 1983.
Rem arkable Service. Revised ed. The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Ezra Eichelberger and Gary Allen, eds. Wiley, 2009.
The M odern A rt o f Chinese Cooking. Barbara Tropp. Hearst, 1996.
The Resource Guide fo r Food W riters. Gary Allen. Routledge, 1999.
The Noon Book o f A u th e n tic Indian Cooking. G. K. Noon. Tuttle,
The Successful Business Plan: Secrets and S trategies. 4th ed. Rhonda Abrams. Planning Shop, 2003.
2002 . P acific and S outheast Asian Cooking. Rafael S teinberg and the E ditors o f T im e-Life Books. T im e-Life Books, 1970.
W hat Every Supervisor Should Know. 6 th ed. Lester B itte l and John Newstrom . M cGraw-Hill, 1992.
A Taste o f Japan. Jenny Ridgwell. Steck-Vaughn, 1997. A Taste o f M adras: A South Indian Cookbook. Rani Kingman. In te rlin k Books, 1996.
baking and pastry
T errific P acific Cookbook. Anya Von Bremzen and John Welchman. Workman, 1995.
The Baker's Manual. 5th ed. Joseph Amendola. Wiley, 2003.
Traditional Korean Cooking. Noh Chin-hwa. Hollym International, 1985.
business and management A t Your Service: A Hands-on Guide to the Professional Dining Room. John Fischer fo r The Culinary In stitu te o f America. Wiley, 2005.
The Bread Bible: Beth Hensperger's 3 0 0 Favorite Recipes. Beth Hensperger. Chronicle, 2004. F latbreads and Flavors: A Culinary A tlas. Je ffre y A lfo rd and Naomi Duguid. M orrow, 1995. Nancy Silverton's Breads from the La Brea Bakery: Recipes fo r the Connoisseur. Nancy Silverton w ith Laurie Ochoa. Villard, 1996. The New In te rn a tio n al C onfectioner. 5th rev. ed. W ilfre d J. France and Michael R. Small, eds. London: Virtue, 1981.
Becoming a Chef: W ith Recipes and Reflections from America's Leading Chefs. Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page. Wiley, 2003.
Nick M algieri's P e rfe ct Pastry. Nick M algieri. Macmillan, 1989.
Cases in H o s p ita lity M arke tin g and Managem ent. 2nd ed. Robert C. Lewis. Wiley, 1997.
P ractical Baking. 5 th ed. W illiam J. Sultan. Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1990.
Culinary M ath. Linda Blocker, Julie Hill, and The Culinary In s titu te o f America. Wiley, 2007.
The Professional P a stry Chef. 4th ed. Bo Friberg. Wiley, 2002.
The D iscipline o f M a rke t Leaders: Choose Your Customers, Narrow Your Focus, Dom inate Your M arket. Expanded ed. Michael Treacy and Fred Wiersema. Addison-Wesley, 1997.
The Pie and P a stry Bible. Rose Levy Beranbaum. Scribner, 1998.
Swiss C onfectionery. 3rd ed. Richemont Bakery and Confectioners C ra ft School, 1997. U nderstanding Baking. 2nd ed. Joseph Amendola, Nicole Reese, and Donald E. Lundberg. Wiley, 2002.
R E A D IN G S A N D RESO URCES
1189
wines and spirits
culinary associations
Exploring Wine: The Culinary In s titu te o f Am erica's Complete Guide to Wines o f the World. 3rd ed. Steven Kolpan, Brian H. Smith, and Michael A. Weiss. Wiley, 2010.
American Culinary Federation (ACF) 180 Center Place Way St. Augustine, FL 3 2 095 (8 0 0 )6 2 4 -9 4 5 8 w w w .acfchefs.org
G reat Wines Made Simple: S tra ig h t Talk from a M a ste r Sommelier. Andrea Immer. Clarkson Potter, 2005. Hugh Johnson's Modern Encyclopedia o f Wine. 4 th ed. Hugh Johnson. Simon 6 Schuster, 1998. Larousse Encyclopedia o f Wine. C hristopher Foulkes, ed. Larousse, 2001. Windows on the W orld Com plete Wine Course: 2 0 0 9 Edition. Kevin Zraly. Sterling, 2009.
periodicals and journals Am erican Brewer A p pellation A rt Culinaire The A rt o f Eating Beverage Digest Beverage World Bon A p p e tit Brewer's D igest C aterer and Hotelkeeper Chef Chocolate News C hocolatier Cooking fo r P ro fit Cooking L ight Cook's Illu s tra te d Culinary Trends Decanter Eating Well Food i j Wine Food A rts Food fo r Thought Food M anagem ent Foodservice and H o s p ita lity Foodservice D ire ctor
Food Technology Fresh Cup G astronom ica Herb Companion H o s p ita lity H o s p ita lity Design H o te l and M ote l M anagem ent Hotels Lodging M e a t and P oultry M odern Baking Nation's R estaurant News N u tritio n A ction Health L e tte r Pizza Today Prepared Foods R estaurant Business R estaurant H o sp ita lity Restaurants and In stitu tio n s Saveur Wine and S p irits Wines and Vines Wine S p e cta to r
The American Institute of Wine & Food (AIWF) 95 P rescott Avenue Monterey, CA 93940 (800) 2 7 4 -2 4 9 3 www.aiwf.org
Chefs Collaborative 89 South S tre e t Boston, MA 02111 (617) 2 3 6 -5 2 0 0 w w w .chefscollaborative.org
The International Council on Hotel, Restaurant and Institutional Education (CHRIE) 2 810 North Parham Road, Suite 230 Richmond, VA 2 3 2 94 (804) 3 4 6 -4 8 0 0 www.chrie.org
International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) 1100 Johnson Ferry Road, Suite 300 Atlanta, 6 A 3 0 342 (80 0 )9 2 8-4 2 2 7 www.iacp.com
The James Beard Foundation 167 W est 12 th S tre e t New York, NY 10011 (800) 36BEARD www.jamesbeard.org
1190
R E A D IN G S A N D R ES O U R C ES
Les Dames d'Escoffier P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40 204 (5 0 2 )4 5 6 -1 8 5 1 www.ldei.org
National Restaurant Association (NRA) 1 2 0 0 1 7 th S treet, NW Washington, DC 2 0 036 (2 0 2 )3 3 1 -5 9 0 0 www.restaurant.org
Oldways Preservation Trust 2 66 Beacon S tre e t Boston, MA 02116 (617) 4 2 1 -5 5 0 0 w w w .oldwayspt.org
ProChef Certification 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 1 2 5 38 -1 4 9 9 (8 4 5 )4 5 2 -4 6 0 0 www.prochef.com
Share Our Strength (SOS) 1730 M S treet, NW, Suite 700 Washington, DC 2 0 036 (800) 9 6 9 -4 7 6 7 www.strength.org
Women Chefs and Restaurateurs (WCR) P.O. Box 1875 Madison, AL 3 5 758 (877) 9 2 7 -7 7 8 7 www.womenchefs.org
recipe index a
Acorn Squash, Baked, with CranberryOrange Compote, 689 Aioli, 904 Almond(s) Biscotti, -Anise, 1086-1087 -Fig Vinaigrette, 897 Frangipane Filling, 1128 Pear Frangipane Tartlets, 1128 in Picada, 612-613 Trout Amandine, 509 Amaranth Pancakes, 803 Amish Corn and Chicken Soup, 334 Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Anchovy(ies) in Caesar-Style Dressing, 902 -Caper Mayonnaise, 903 Pescado Frito, 972-973 in Provencal Sauce, 501 Andalucian Gazpacho (Gazpacho Andaluz), 349 Angel Food Cake, 1082 Anise-Almond Biscotti, 1086-1087 Annatto Rice, 781 Apple(s) Butter, 1130 Caramelized, 448,1138 Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918 Chips, 1136 Pie, 1125 Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise, 943 in Waldorf Salad, 918 and Watercress Salad, Sherried, 917 Apple Cider Sauce, 448 Vinaigrette, 897 Apricot Glaze, 1130 Arroz Blanco, 781 Arroz Brasileiro, 782 Arroz Mexicano, 782 Artichoke(s) Eggs Massena, Poached, 869 Lamb Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary, Cipollini Onions and, 451 and Pepper Salad, 750 Souffle, 875 Arugula, Sauteed, 702 Asiago Cheese and Corn Risotto Cakes, 805 Asian Dipping Sauce, 956 Asian-Style Marinade, 372 Asparagus with Lemony Hollandaise, 6 8 8 -6 8 9 Tips, Risotto with, 783 Soup, Cream of (Creme dArgenteuil), 339 and White Bean Lasagna, 829 Aspic, 995 Avocado Baby Spinach, and Grapefruit Salad, 918 in California Rolls, 981 in Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Guacamole, 958 Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Orange Oil and, 983
b
Baba Ghanoush, 958 Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad, 918 Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 Bacon with Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, 522 in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Eggs Benedict, 870, 871 Quiche Lorraine, 876 in Rouladen Stuffing, 585 Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Peppers and, 553 Vinaigrette, Warm, Wilted Spinach Salad with, 914-915 Baguettes, 1033 Baked Acorn Squash with CranberryOrange Compote, 6 8 9 Baked Potatoes with Deep-Fried Onions, 735 Baked Stuffed Pork Chops, 465 Balsamic Vinaigrette, 897 Banana -Nut Bread, 1079,1080 Pancakes, 1073 Barbecue(d) Beef Sandwich, 936 Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9 Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce, 458 Marinade, 372 Spice Mix, 368 Steak with Herb Crust, 445 Barbecue Sauce Guava, 467 Mustard (North Carolina Eastern Low Country), 469 North Carolina Piedmont, 469 North Carolina Western, 469 for Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475 Barley Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Pilaf, Pearl, 780 Salad with Cucumber and Mint, 800, 801 Basic Boiled Pasta, 819 Basic Boiled Rice, 785 Basic Lean Dough, 1033 Basic Muffin Recipe, 1078 Basic Pie Dough (3-2-1), 1070 Basic Polenta, 792 Basic Waffles, 1073 Basil Butter, 300 Ice Cream, 1143-1144 Oil, 906 Pesto, 299 in Provencal Sauce, 501 Sauce, 1145 Thai, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515 Bass Poached Sea, with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 and Scallops en Papillote, 553 Batter Beer, 522 Beignet, Chocolate, 1154
Pate a Choux, 1084 Tempura, 523 BBQ Spice Rub, 791 Bean(s). See also Black Bean(s); Chickpeas; Green Beans Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929 in Cassoulet, 594 Corona (Fagioli all’Uccelletto), 772 Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681 Falafel, 776 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb with (Gigot a la Bretonne), 480 Lima, Roman-Style, 774 Pinto, Creamed (Frijoles Maneados), 772 in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Red, and Rice, Boiled, 777 Rice and, 776 Salad, Mixed, 929 Soup, Black Bean, Caribbean-Style Puree of, 345 Soup, Senate, 346 Soup, White Bean and Escarole, Tuscan, 355 in Taco Salad, 913 and Tuna Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli), 975 White, and Asparagus Lasagna, 829 White, Boiled, 777 White, Stew, Southwest, 775 Bean Curd Grandmother’s (Ma Po Dofu), 526, 527 in Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 Smoked, and Celery Salad, 908 Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup, 971 Bearnaise Sauce, 297 Bechamel Sauce, 295 Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with Ragu and (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 Beef. See also Corned Beef; Steaks(s) Barbecued, Sandwich, 936 in Bibimbap, 514 Boiled, with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet Pickles, 472-473 Broth, 334 Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Carpaccio, 982 Consomme, 333 Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Goulash, 599 Noodle Soup (Pho Bo), 569 Oxtails, Braised, 581 Pot Roast, Yankee, 586 Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464 Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Sauerbraten, 587 and Scallions, Skewered, 446 Short Ribs, Braised, 584
Short Ribs, Braised, Korean (Kalbi Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3 Soup, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351 Stew, 589 Stock, White, 263 in Taco Salad, 913 Teriyaki, 4 4 4 ,4 4 5 Tournedos Provencal, 501 Wellington, 463 Beer Batter, 522 and Cheddar Soup, Wisconsin, 340 Beet(s) Glazed, 6 82, 683 Lobster Salad with Mangos, Avocado, Orange Oil and, 983 Mushrooms, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts, 916, 917 Pasta, 819 Beignet Batter, Chocolate, 1154 Beignet Truffle Centers, 1153 Belgian Endive a la Meuniere, 704 Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Bell Pepper(s). See also Red Pepper(s) and Artichoke Salad, 750 Black Beans with Chorizo and, 7 6 8 -7 6 9 in Chili, Vegetarian, 7 7 8-779 Grilled Vegetables Proven^al-Style,
686 Marinated Roasted, 694, 695 and Pork Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo), 984 Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Bacon and, 553 Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511 Berny Potatoes, 747 Beurre Blanc, 298 Beurre Noisette, Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Sage and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Bibimbap, 514 Bigarade Sauce, Roast Duckling with, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1086-1087 Biscuit Dumplings, 835 Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071 Bisque Lobster (Bisque de Homard), 348 Shrimp, 347 Black Bean(s) Cakes, 9 7 8 -9 7 9 Chili, Vegetarian, 7 78-779 Crepes, Vegetarian, 770, 771 Frijoles a la Charra, 773 Frijoles Refritos, 771 Mash, 768 -Papaya Salsa, 955 with Peppers and Chorizo, 7 6 8 -7 6 9 Sauce, 458 Soup, Caribbean-Style Puree of, 345 Stewed, 775
RECIPE IN D E X
1191
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Black-Eyed Pea Salad, Warm, 929 Black Ink Sauce, Baby Squid in (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 Black Peppercorn Dressing, Creamy, 904 Black Pepper Pasta, 819 Blitz Puff Pastry Dough, 1077 Blueberry Compote, 1145 Muffins, 1078,1080 Pancakes, 1073 Blue Cheese in Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Dressing, 904 Mousse, 953 Bluefish, Broiled, a l’Anglaise with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Boiled Carrots, 681 Boiled Edamame, 681 Boiled Parsley Potatoes, 736, 737 Boiled Rice, Basic, 785 Boiled White Beans, 777 Bok Choy, Stir-Fried Shanghai (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai), 7 02-703 Bolognese Lasagna, Classic, with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes, 561 Boules, 1034 Bouquet Garni, 774 Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni (Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni), 590 -5 9 1 Braised Fennel in Butter, 710 Braised Greens, 710 Braised Lamb Shanks, 604 Braised Oxtails, 581 Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Braised Red Cabbage, 711 Braised Romaine, 711 Braised Sauerkraut, 712 Braised Short Ribs, 584 Braised Short Ribs, Korean (Kalbi Jjim), 582 Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage, 598 Bran Muffins, 1078 Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with, 872 Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Bread(s), Quick. See also Muffins; Scones Banana-Nut, 1079,1080 Biscuits, Buttermilk, 1070-1071 Cornbread, 1079 Fried (Puri), 1074 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Pumpkin, 1080,1081 Soda Bread, Irish, 1072 Bread(s), Yeast Baguettes, 1033 Boules, 1034 Brioche Loaf, 1040 Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041 Buns, Sticky, 1046 Challah (3-Braid), 1044 Ciabatta, 1036 Dough, Basic Lean, 1033
1192
REC IPE IN D E X
Dough, Sweet, 1045 Focaccia, 1034-1035 Naan, 1038,1039 Pita, 1037 Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Raisin, with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042, 1043 Rolls Cottage Dill, 1039 Hard, 1036 Soft Dinner, 1045 Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106 Bread Crumbs Gremolata, 601 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon Crust, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Persillade, 477 Bread Dumplings, 835 Bread Salad Eastern Mediterranean (Fattoush), 926 Panzanella, 927 Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Stuffing and Supreme Sauce, 515 Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat, 4 8 3 -4 8 4 Brine Meat, 999 for Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Siu), 466 Brioche Loaf, 1040 Brioche a Tete, 1040,1041 Brisket, Smoked, with Sweet Pickles, 47 2 -4 7 3 Broccoli and Cheddar Quiche, 876 Soup, Cream of, 339 Steamed, 681 and Toasted Garlic, 681 Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Parmesan and, 820, 821 Brodo (Poultry and Meat Stock), 266 Broiled Bluefish a l’Anglaise with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel, 455 Broiled Chicken Breasts with SunDried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 454 Broiled Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter, 447 Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Broiled Shrimp with Garlic, 969 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Broiled Stuffed Lobster, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 Brook Trout, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, 522 Broth. See also Consomme Beef, 334 Chicken, 334 Fish, 334 Game, 334 Ham, 334 Lamb, 334 Pork, Smoked, 334 Saffron, with Fennel, Seafood Poached in a, 570 Shellfish, 334
Turkey, 334 Veal, 334 Brownies, Fudge, 1090 Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and Green Onions, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Short-Grain, 781 Brown Stock Chicken, 264 Duck, 264 Game (Jus de Gibier), 264 Lamb, 264 Pork, 264 Veal, 263 Buckwheat Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, 799 Pasta, 819 Bulgur Pilaf, -G reen Onion, 796-797 Salad, Sweet and Spicy, 800 Buns, Sticky, 1046 Burger, Chicken, 936 Burgundy Sauce, Beef Rouladen in, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Butter(s) Apple, 1130 Basil, 300 Beurre Blanc, 298 Beurre Noisette, Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Sage and, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Dill, 300 Green Onion, 300 in Hollandaise Sauce, 298 Maitre d’Hotel, 300 Persillade, 477 Pimiento, 300 Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano, 300 Tarragon, 300 Buttercream, Italian, 1125 Buttermilk Biscuits, 1070-1071 Chicken, Fried, 516-517 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Muffin Recipe, Basic, 1078 Pancakes, 1073 Butternut Squash Puree, 691 in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 Butterscotch Sauce, 1137
C Cabbage Coleslaw, 920 Coleslaw, Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1 in Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Dim Sum, 837 in Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841 in Potage Garbure, 346 Red, Braised, 711 Salad, Warm, 506 Sauerkraut, Homemade, 593 Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Caesar Salad, 908 Caesar-Style Dressing, 902 Cake(s) Angel Food, 1082 Cheesecake, 1084 Chocolate XS, 1083 Date Spice, 1137 Date Spice, Warm, with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Devil’s Food, 1082
Pound, 1081 Sponge, Chocolate, 1083 Sponge, Vanilla, 1083 California Rolls, 981 Canja (Chicken Rice Soup), 336 Cantonese Pork Roast (Char Siu), 466 Caper-Anchovy Mayonnaise, 903 Caramelized Apples, 4 48,1138 Caramelized Onion Quiche, 876 Caramel Sauce Classic, 1129,1153 Vanilla, 1159 Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup, 345 Carolina Barbecue, 4 6 8 -4 6 9 Carpaccio Beef, 982 Tuna (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta), 964, 965 Carrot(s) Boiled, 681 Glazed, 685 Pan-Steamed, 684 Pasta, 819 Pecan, 684 Roasted, 695 Salad, Moroccan, 920 Cashew Noodles, Tempeh, 824, 825 Cassoulet, 594 Catalina French Dressing, 902 Cauliflower Curried Roasted, 692 and Millet Puree, 796 Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad, 918 Celery and Smoked Bean Curd Salad, 908 Soup, Cream of (Creme de Celeri), 339 Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963 Cha Ca Thang Long (Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill), 527 Challah (3-Braid), 1044 Chantilly Cream (Creme Chantilly), 1023,1146 Orange-Scented, 1138 Chao Tom (Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane), 977 Charcutiere Sauce, 508 Char Siu (Cantonese Pork Roast), 466 Chateau Potatoes, 740 Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu), 919 Cheddar and Beer Soup, Wisconsin, 340 Omelet, Souffleed, 874 and Potato-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Quiche, and Broccoli, 876 Sauce, 294 Scones, and Ham, 1072 Cheese. See also specific cheeses in Chef’s Salad, 909 Croque Monsieur, 937 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Melt, Three-, 940 Mornay Sauce, 295 Omelet, 873 Omelet, and Meat, 873 Omelet, and Vegetable, 873 in Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Scrambled Eggs with, 872 Souffle, Savory, 874 in Taco Salad, 913 Cheesecake, 1084 Chef Clark’s Southwest-Style Sauce, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 Chef’s Salad, 909 Cherry(ies) -Chocolate Chunk Cookies, 1088
Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried, 1002-1003 Pie, 1126 Sauce, Dried, 1130 Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, Pecans and, 798, 799 Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes, 968, 969 Chestnut Stuffing, 486 Chicken Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Breast, Barbecued, with Black Bean Sauce, 458 Breast of, with Duxelles Stuffing and Supreme Sauce, 515 Breast, Poached, with Tarragon Sauce, 563 Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 454 Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, with Fennel, 455 Broth, 334 Burger, 936 in Congee, 795 Consomme, Royale, 333 and Crayfish Terrine, 9 9 6,1005 Farmhouse, with Angel Biscuits, 564 Fricassee, 612 Fried, Buttermilk, 516-517 Galantine, 1000-1001,1005 Gumbo, and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Jus de Volaille Lie, 293 and Lamb Stew, Couscous with, 609 Legs with Duxelles Stuffing, 482 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Mousseline, 996 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Paillards of, Grilled, with Tarragon Butter, 455 and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya), 612-613 Provencal, 501 Roast, with Pan Gravy, 482 Salad, 923 Salad, Hue-Style, 924 Sauteed, with Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Smoked, Pan-, 483 Soup, and Com, Amish, 334 Soup, Rice (Canja), 336 Soup, Thai, with Coconut Milk and Galangal, 353 Soup, Tortilla, 335 Stock, 263 Stock, Brown, 264 Tagine, 610-611 Tangerine-Flavored, Crispy, 524-525 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 with Vegetables (Poule au Pot), 565 Veloute, 294 Chicken Liver(s) Chasseur, Poached Eggs with, 871 Omelet Opera, 873 Pate, 1004,1005 Pate Grand-Mere, 994 Chickpeas Falafel, 776 Hummus bi Tahini, 958 Middle Eastern, 774 Chiles Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Chili Powder, 368 Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896 Dipping Sauce, Vietnamese, 956 Game Hens, Jerked, 459 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595
Harissa, 959 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Salsa Roja, 954 Salsa Verde Cruda, 954 Tortilla Soup, 335 in Z’hug, 960 Chili, Vegetarian, 778-7 7 9 Chili Powder, 368 Chinese Five-Spice Powder, 368 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang), 350 Chinese Sausage, Fried Rice with, 787 Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette, 896 Chips Apple, 1136 Coconut, 1150 Plantain, Fried, 708, 709 Sweet Potato, 746, 747 Tortilla, 962 Chocolate Beignet Batter, 1154 Brownies, Fudge, 1090 Cake, XS, 1083 Cinnamon Sticks, Milk Chocolate, 1136 Cookies, Chunk, 1088 Cookies, Chunk, Cherry-, 1088 Cookies, Mudslide, 1089 Eclairs, 1085 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Graham Decor, 1152 Ice Cream, 1102,1103 Mousse, 1104 Pastry Cream, 1098 Pate a Choux, 1160 Sauce, 1129,1159 Souffle, 1106 Sponge Cake, 1083 Straws, 1160 Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153 Chocolate Chip Pancakes, 1073 Chorizo Black Beans with Peppers and, 76 8 -7 6 9 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Choron Sauce, 297 Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 Chowder Clam, Manhattan-Style, 344 Clam, New England-Style, 340 Conch, 341 Corn, 341 Seafood, Pacific, 342 Chutney Mango, Fresh, 453 Mango, Spicy, 961 Mint and Yogurt, 462 Ciabatta, 1036 CIA Club, 934, 935 Cider. See Apple Cider Cilantro -Lime Soy Sauce, 956 Sorbet, 1149 Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino (Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper), 705 Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1135 Smear, 1046 Sticks, Milk Chocolate, 1136 Sugar, 1043 Swirl, Raisin Bread with, 1042, 1043 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Cipollini Onions, Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes and, 451
Citrus Honey-Poppy Seed Dressing, 898 Marinade, Latin (Mojo), 373 Pasta, 819 Clam(s) Casino, 9 6 6 -9 6 7 Chowder, Manhattan-Style, 344 Chowder, New England-Style, 340 in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 in New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Sea Bass, Poached, with Bacon, Peppers and, 553 Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 Classic Caramel Sauce, 1129,1153 Classic Polish Cucumber Salad (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Cobb Salad, 912, 913 Coconut Chips, 1150 Flans, 1150 Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596 Macadamia Shrimp, 966 Milk, Thai Chicken Soup with Galangal and, 353 Rice, 7 8 2 -7 8 3 in Vatapa, 512 Cod in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Fish Kebabs, 462 New England Shore Dinner, 5 6 0 -5 6 1 Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Coddled Eggs, 866 Coffee Ice Cream, 1102,1103 for Profiteroles, 1156,1158 Coleslaw, 920 Pork Butt with, 4 7 0 -4 7 1 Collard Greens Braised, 710 and Ham Bone Soup, 350 Common Meringue, 1024 Compote Blueberry, 1145 Cranberry-Orange, 689 Conch Chowder, 341 Confit Duck, 595 Red Onion, Noisettes of Pork with, 506 Congee, 795 Consomme Beef, 333 Chicken, Royale, 333 Converted White Rice Pilaf, 780 Cookie Dough 1-2-3,1086 Cookies Biscotti, Almond-Anise, 1 0 8 6 -1 0 8 7 Chocolate Chunk, 1088 Chocolate Chunk, Cherry-, 1088 Mudslide, 1089 Oatmeal-Raisin, 1089 Pecan Diamonds, 1088 Sable, 1140 Tuile Nut, 1090 Tuiles, 1144 Corn Chicken Rice Soup (Canja), 336 and Chicken Soup, Amish, 334 Chowder, 341 Creamed, 683 Fritters, 707 Grits with Hominy and, 794, 795 and Jicama Salad, 921 New England Shore Dinner, 5 6 0 -5 6 1
Risotto Cakes, and Asiago Cheese, 805 Cornbread, 1079 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Corned Beef Hash, Poached Eggs with, 869 Reuben Sandwich, 942 with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Corn Flake Crunch, 1159 Cornmeal Hush Puppies, 836, 837 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Corn Muffins, 1079 Corona Beans (Fagioli alPUccelletto), 772 Cottage Dill Rolls, 1039 Coulis Raspberry, 1129 Red Pepper, 299 Strawberry, 1146 Tomato, 296 Country Gravy, 516, 517 Country-Style Terrine (Pate de Campagne), 998 Court Bouillon, 265 Couscous, 826 and Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Lamb and Chicken Stew with, 609 Crab Cakes, Chesapeake-Style, 968, 969 Stuffed Shrimp, 970 Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad, 802, 803 Cranberry -Orange Compote, 689 -Orange Muffins, 1078 -Pecan Pie, 1126 Relish, 961 Crayfish and Chicken Terrine, 996, 1005 Cream(ed). See also Cream Soup(s); Custard; Pastry Cream; Sour Cream Chantilly (Creme Chantilly), 1023, 1146 Chantilly, Orange-Scented, 1138 Corn, 683 Diplomat, 1103 Mousseline Sauce, 298 Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados), 772 Ricotta, 1140 Sauce, 295 Scones, 1072 Cream Cheese Cheesecake, 1084 Herbed, Cucumber Sandwich with, 943 Cream Soup(s) of Asparagus (Creme dArgenteuil), 339 of Broccoli, 339 of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339 of Tomato, 339 of Tomato, with Rice, 339 Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing, 904 Creme dArgenteuil (Cream of Asparagus Soup), 339 Creme Brulee, 1099 Creme Caramel, 1100-1101 Creme de Celeri (Cream of Celery Soup), 339 Creme Chantilly, 1023,1146 Orange-Scented, 1138 Crepes Black Bean, Vegetarian, 770, 771 Dessert, 1076 Saigon, 804 Suzette, 1075
RECIPE IN D E X
1 193
Crispy Shallots, 924 Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken, 524 -5 2 5 Croque Monsieur, 937 Croquette Potatoes, 748 Croquettes, Rice, 792 Croutons, 965 Garlic-Flavored, 563 Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta (Tuna Carpaccio), 964, 965 Crumb Crust, 1051 Crust(ed) Ancho-, Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Crumb, 1051 Graham Cracker, 1084,1146 Graham Cracker, for S’mores, 1152 Herb, Barbecued Steak with, 445 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Persillade, 477 Cucumber(s) Barley Salad with Mint and, 800, 801 Dressing, 903 and Onion Salad (Kachumber), 919 Salad, 9 2 2 -9 2 3 Salad, Polish, Classic (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Salad, Yogurt, 923 Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese, 943 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo), 922 Yogurt Sauce, 957 Cumberland Sauce, 955 Curry(ied) Cauliflower, Roasted, 692 Goat with Green Papaya Salad, 608 Mayonnaise, Apple Sandwich with, 943 Onion Relish, 961 Pasta, 819 Pork in a Green Curry Sauce, 596 Rice Salad, 930 Sweet Potato Salad, 749 Vinaigrette, 898 Vinaigrette, Guava-, 899 Curry Paste Green, 370 Red, 370 Yellow, 371 Curry Powder, 369 Custard. See also Quiche(s) Bread and Butter Pudding, 1106 Coconut Flans, 1150 Creme Brulee, 1099 Creme Caramel, 1100-1101 Goat Cheese, Warm, 875 Royale, 333 Sabayon, 1129 Vanilla Sauce, 1099 Zabaglione, 1129
Caramel, Classic, 1129,1153 Caramel, Vanilla 1159 Cherry, Dried, 1130 Chocolate, 1129,1159 Vanilla, 1099 White, 1154 Deviled Eggs, 8 6 6 -8 6 7 with Cheese, 866 with Greens, 866 with Tomato, 866 Devil’s Food Cake, 1082 Dill Butter, 300 Cottage Rolls, 1039 Hanoi Fried Fish with (Cha Ca Thang Long), 527 Sauce, 447 Dim Sum, 837 Dinner Rolls, Soft, 1045 Diplomat Cream, 1103 Dipping Sauce Asian, 956 Cilantro-Lime Soy, 956 Ginger-Soy, 841 Spring Roll, 957 Tempura, 523 Vietnamese, 956 Dough. See also Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg; Pastry Dough Cookie 1-2-3,1086 Lean, Basic, 1033 Pate, 1006-1007 Pate, Saffron, 1006 Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Samosas, 970 Sweet, 1045 Dried Cherry Sauce, 1130 Duchesse Potatoes, 737 Duck Confit, 595 Jus de Canard Lie, 293 Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Stock, Brown, 264 Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 1002-1003 Terrine, and Smoked Ham, 1004-1005 Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, 1156,1158 Dumplings. See also Gnocchi Biscuit, 835 Bread, 835 Dim Sum, 837 Hush Puppies, 836, 837 Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841 Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled, with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Potstickers, 837 Spatzle, 834 Steamed (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Duxelles Stuffing, 482
d
Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad (Fattoush), 926 Eclairs, 1085 Chocolate, 1085 Edamame, Boiled, 444, 681 Egg(s). See also Custard; Deviled Eggs; Omelet(s); Quiche(s); Souffle(s) Benedict, 870, 871 Coddled, 866 Florentine, 871 French Toast, 878 Fried, 871 Fried, in Bibimbap, 514 Hard-Cooked, 866
Daikon Salad, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Date Spice Cake, Warm, with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Deep-Fried Onions, 581 Delmonico Potatoes, 740 Demi-Glace, 293 Dessert Crepes, 1076 Dessert Sauce Basil, 1145 Butterscotch, 1137
1194
REC IPE IN D E X
e
Hard-Cooked, in Chef’s Salad, 909 Medium-Cooked, 866 Omelet, White, Plain Rolled, 873 Over Easy, Medium or Hard, 871 Pickled, 868 Pickled, Red, 8 6 8 Poached, 868 American-Style, 871 with Chicken Liver Chasseur, 871 with Corned Beef Hash, 869 Farmer-Style, 869 Massena, 869 Mornay, 869 with Mushrooms, 869 with Smoked Salmon, 871 Salad, 925 Scrambled, 872 with Bratwurst, 872 with Cheese, 872 Gratine, 872 Greek-Style, 872 Hunter-Style, 872 Whites, 872 Soft-Cooked, 866 Wash, 1023 White Omelet, Plain Rolled, 873 Whites, Scrambled, 872 Egg Pasta. See Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg Eggplant Baba Ghanoush, 958 Filling, Marinated, 939 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese, 940 Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 and Prosciutto Panini, 938, 939 Ratatouille, 708 in Scrambled Eggs, Greek-Style, 872 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701 Emince of Swiss-Style Veal, 502, 503 Empanada Gallega de Cerdo (Pork and Pepper Pie), 984 Endive. See Belgian Endive Escarole and White Bean Soup, Tuscan, 355 Espagnole Sauce, 294 Estouffade, 264 European-Style Potato Salad, 926
f
Fagioli all’Uccelletto (Corona Beans), 772 Falafel, 776 Farmer-Style Omelet, 873 Farmer-Style Poached Eggs, 869 Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits, 564 Fattoush (Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad), 926 Fennel Braised, in Butter, 710 with Chicken Breasts, Grilled or Broiled, 455 Saffron Broth with, Seafood Poached in a, 570 Fig-Almond Vinaigrette, 897 Fillet of Mahi Mahi with PineappleJicama Salsa, 459 Fillet of Snapper en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Fines Herbes, 369 Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Fire-Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette, 899 Fish. See also Anchovy(ies); Salmon; Sole; Trout; Tuna Bass and Scallops en Papillote, 553
Bass, Sea, Poached, with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 Bluefish, Broiled, a l’Anglaise with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 461 Broth, 334 Cakes, Fried, 528 Cakes, Salt Cod, Old-Fashioned, 521 Ceviche Estilo Acapulco, 963 Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Flounder a l’Orly, 522 Flounder Mousseline, 993 Fried with Dill, Hanoi (Cha Ca Thang Long), 527 Fumet, 264 Kebabs, 462 Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with Pineapple-Jicama Salsa, 459 Marinade, 372 New England Shore Dinner, 560,561 Omelet, Seafood, 873 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth with Fennel, 570 Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes, 561 Snapper, Fillet of, en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Snapper, Red, with Grapefruit Salsa, 509 Vatapa, 512 Veloute, 294 Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Flank Steak, in Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Flans, Coconut, 1150 Flounder in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Mousseline, 993 a l’Orly, 522 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3 Focaccia, 1034-1035 Foie Gras in Beef Wellington, 463 Roulade, 1001 Terrine, 1001 Fontina Risotto Fritters, 804 Forcemeat. See also Pate; Terrine Chicken Galantine, 1000-1001, 1005 Mushroom, 484 Pork Tenderloin Roulade, 999 Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Frangipane Filling, 1128 Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128 French Dressing, Catalina, 902 French-Fried Potatoes, 747 French-Style Peas, 712 French Toast, 878 Fresh Egg Pasta, 819 Fresh Mango Chutney, 453 Fricassee Chicken, 612 Veal, 612 Fried Bread (Puri), 1074 Fried Eggs, 871 Fried Fish Cakes, 528 Fried Plantain Chips, 708, 709 Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage, 787 Frijoles a la Charra, 773 Frijoles Maneados (Creamed Pinto Beans), 772 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773 Frijoles Refritos, 771
Fritters Corn, 707 Fontina Risotto, 804 Frog’s Legs, in Seafood Ravigote, 930 Fruit(s). See also specific fruits Salsa, 1130 Sauce, Winter, 505 Fudge Brownies, 1090 Fumet, Fish, 264
g
Gaisburger Marsch (Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes), 570 Galangal, Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and, 353 Galantine, Chicken, 1 0 0 0-1001,1005 Game Broth, 334 Jus de Gibier Lie, 293 Marinade, Red Wine, 372 Stock, Brown (Jus de Gibier), 264 Venison Terrine, 1002 Game Hen(s) Jerked, 459 Mushroom Forcemeat, 484 Rock Cornish, Breast of, with Mushroom Forcemeat, 483 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Gar am Masala, 368 Garbanzo Beans. See Chickpeas Garlic Aioli, 904 Broccoli Rabe with Hot Crushed Pepper and (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705 Croutons, -Flavored, 563 in Gremolata, 601 in Persillade, 477 in Picada, 612-613 Sauce, Sweet, 524 Toasted, and Broccoli, 681 Vinaigrette, -Lemon, 896 Vinaigrette, Roasted Garlic and Mustard, 896 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho), 349 German Potato Salad, 749 Gigot a la Bretonne (Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs), 480 Ginger(ed) Pickled, 962 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, 684 -Soy Dipping Sauce, 841 with Sweet Potatoes, Mashed, 738-739 Gla^age, Royal, 557 Glaze(d) Apricot, 1130 Beets, 682, 683 Carrots, 685 Ganache, Hard, 1128 Soy-Sesame, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Sweet Potatoes, 738 Gnocchi Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3 di Ricotta, 831 di Semolina Gratinati, 831 Goat, Curried, with Green Papaya Salad, 608 Goat Cheese Custard, Warm, 875 Mousse, 953 Mushroom Strudel with, 978 Vegetable Terrine with, 1010 Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich, 944 Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs), 1084
Goulash Beef, 599 Pork, 599 Szekely (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Graham Cracker Chocolate Decor, 1152 Crust, 1084,1146 Crust, for S’mores, 1152 Ice Cream, 1151 Grandmother’s Bean Curd (Ma Po Dofu), 526, 527 Grapefruit Baby Spinach, and Avocado Salad, 918 Salsa, 955 Gratin Dauphinoise (Potatoes au Gratin), 739 Gravlax, 1011 Gravy Country, 516, 517 Pan, Roast Chicken with, 482 Pan, Roast Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing and, 4 8 5 -4 8 6 Greek Salad, 910, 911 Greek-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Green Beans Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684 with Walnuts, 685 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 Green Curry Paste, 370 Green Curry Sauce, Pork in a, 596 Green Goddess Dressing, 901 Green Lentil Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Puy), 928 Green Mayonnaise, 903 Green Onion(s) Beef and Scallions, Skewered, 446 Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and, 780 -7 8 1 -Bulgur Pilaf, 7 9 6 -7 9 7 Butter, 300 Oil, 907 Green Papaya Salad, 921 Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Bisi), 783 Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Pork with Pineapple and, 504 Greens Braised, 710 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Gremolata, 601 Grilled Chicken Breasts with Fennel, 455 Grilled Chicken Breasts with SunDried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 454 Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions, 451 Grilled Meats, Red Wine Marinade for, 374 Grilled Paillards of Chicken with Tarragon Butter, 455 Grilled Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Grilled Rib Eye Steak, 446 Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with SoySesame Glaze, 6 8 6 - 6 8 7 Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane (Chao Tom), 977 Grilled Sirloin Steak with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Grilled Sirloin Steak with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Grilled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops, 4 4 8 -4 4 9 Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya, 7 9 0 -7 9 1 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese, 940, 941 Grilled Vegetables Proven^al-Style, 686
Grits with Corn and Hominy, 794, 795 Gruyere Cheese Puffs (Gougeres), 1084 Guacamole, 958 Guava Barbecue Sauce, 467 -Curry Vinaigrette, 899 -Glazed Pork Ribs, 467 Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Guo Tie (Pan-Fried Dumplings), 840, 841
h
Ham Broth, 334 in Club, CIA, 934, 935 Croque Monsieur, 937 Salad, 925 Scones, and Cheddar, 1072 Smoked, and Duck Terrine, 1004-1005 Soup, Ham Bone and Collard Greens, 350 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long), 527 Hard-Cooked Eggs, 866 Hard Rolls, 1036 Haricots Blancs, Roast Leg of Lamb with (Gigot a la Bretonne), 48 0 Haricots Verts, Pan-Steamed, 684 Harissa, 959 Hash, Corned Beef, Poached Eggs with, 869 Hash Brown Potatoes, 740-741 Herb(s), Herbed. See also specific herbs Bouquet Garni, 774 Cream Cheese, Cucumber Sandwich with, 943 Crust, Barbecued Steak with, 445 Fines Herbes, 369 Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Forcemeat Stuffing, 605 Mayonnaise, 943 Omelet, 873 Pasta, 819 Rub, 982 Sachet d’Epices, 599 Salt, 481 Vinaigrette, -Mustard, 896 Vinaigrette, and Truffle, 900 Hoagie, Philly, 934 Hollandaise Sauce, 298 Lemony, Asparagus with, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9 Homemade Sauerkraut, 593 Hominy, Grits with Corn and, 794, 795 Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus Dressing, 898 Horseradish and Smoked Salmon Crust, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado), 457 Hot and Sour Soup Chinese (Suan La Tang), 350 Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354 Hue-Style Chicken Salad, 924 Hummus bi Tahini, 958 Hunter-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Hush Puppies, 836, 837
i
Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand Island Dressing, 909 Ice Cream Basil, 1143-1144 Chocolate, 1102,1103 Cinnamon, 1135
Coffee, 1102,1103 Coffee, for Profiteroles, 1156,1158 Dulce de Leche, 1156,1158 Graham Cracker, 1151 Profiteroles, -Filled, 1085 Raspberry, 1103 Vanilla, 1102,1103 Vanilla, for Profiteroles, 1156,1157 Ichi Ban Dashi, 267 Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli (Tuna and Bean Salad), 975 Irish Soda Bread, 1072 Irish Stew, 608 Italian Buttercream, 1125 Italian Meringue, 1024
j
Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790-791 Japanese Salad Dressing, 905 Jap Chae (Stir-Fried Glass Noodles), 822 Jardiniere Vegetables, 705 Jelly Omelet, 873 Jerked Game Hens, 459 Jerk Seasoning, 459 Jicama and Corn Salad, 921 -Pineapple Salsa, 459 Salad, 921 Johnny Cakes, 1074 Julienne Vegetables, 706 Jus, Standing Rib Roast au, 464 Jus Lie d’Agneau (Lamb), 293 de Canard (Duck), 293 de Gibier (Game), 293 Pork Roast with, 465 de Veau (Veal), 293 de Volaille (Chicken), 293
k
Kachumber (Onion and Cucumber Salad), 919 Kalbi Jjim (Korean Braised Short Ribs), 5 8 2 -5 8 3 Kale, Braised, 710 Kao Paigu (Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs), 476 Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans, 799 Kebabs. See also Skewers, Skewered Fish, 462 Lamb, with Pimiento Butter, Broiled, 447 Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and, 971 Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147 Kombu, in Ichi Ban Dashi, 266 Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalbi Jjim), 5 8 2 -5 8 3
1
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu), 476 Lamb, 227 Broth, 334 in Cassoulet, 594 and Chicken Stew, Couscous with, 609 Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions, 451 Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 Jus d’Agneau Lie, 293
RECIPE IN D E X
1195
Lamb, continued Kebabs with Pimiento Butter, Broiled, 447 Khorma, 607 Leg of, Roast, Boulangere, 476 Leg of, Roast, with Haricots Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne), 480 Leg of, Roast, with Mint Sauce, 481 Leg of, Stuffed, Portuguese, 605 Marinade, 373 Navarin, 606 Patties, Pakistani-Style, 454 Rack of, Roast, Persille, 477 Shanks, Braised, 604 Shoulder of, Roasted, and Couscous (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Stew, Irish, 608 Stock, Brown, 264 Lasagna Asparagus and White Bean, 829 Bolognese, Classic, with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno), 826, 827 di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 Latin Citrus Marinade (Mojo), 373 Latkes, Potato, 743 Lean Dough, Basic, 1033 Leek and Tomato Quiche, 876 Lemon(s) Asparagus with Lemony Hollandaise, 6 8 8 - 6 8 9 Cumberland Sauce, 955 Curd, 1145 Meringue Pie, 1127 Preserved, 611 Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote, 1142-1145 Vinaigrette, -Garlic, 896 Vinaigrette, -Parsley, 896 Lentil Salad, Green (Salade des Lentilles du Puy), 928 Lentil Soup, Puree of, 344 Lima Beans, Roman-Style, 774 Lime -Cilantro Soy Sauce, 956 Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147 Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard), 348 Broiled Stuffed, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 New England Shore Dinner, 560 -5 6 1 Salad with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil, 983 Lo Han (Steamed Long-Grain Rice), 785 Lorette Potatoes, 748 Lyonnaise Potatoes, 739
m Macadamia Coconut Shrimp, 966 Macedoine of Vegetables, 706 Madeira Sauce, 463 Mahi Mahi, Fillet of, with PineappleJicama Salsa, 459 Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 300 Maltaise Sauce, 298 Malt Vinegar and Peanut Oil Dressing, 900 Mamuang Kao Nieo (Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos), 787 Manchego Cheese, Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with, 940, 941 Mango(s) Chutney, Fresh, 453 Chutney, Spicy, 961 Ketchup, Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and, 971
1196
REC IPE IN D E X
Lobster Salad with Beets, Avocado, Orange Oil and, 983 and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Sticky Rice, Thai, with (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Manhattan-Style Clam Chowder, 344 Maple Pecans, Spicy, Kasha with, 799 Ma Po Dofu (Grandmothers Tofu), 527 Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Margherita Pizza, 1037 Mar i Muntanya (Chicken and Prawn Ragout), 612-613 Marinade(s) Asian-Style, 372 Barbecue, 372 for Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 for Beef and Scallions, Skewered, 446 for Bibimbap, 514 for Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 for Chicken Breast, Barbecued, with Black Bean Sauce, 458 for Chicken Paillards, Grilled, with Tarragon Butter, 455 for Chicken, Pan-Smoked, 483 for Chicken, Tangerine-Flavored, Crispy, 5 2 4 -5 2 5 Citrus, Latin (Mojo), 373 Eggplant Filling, Marinated, 939 Fish, 372 for Fish Kebabs, 462 Lamb, 373 for Lamb Chops, Grilled, with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions, 451 for Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 for Lamb Khorma, 607 Peppers, Marinated Roasted, 694, 695 for Pork, Cantonese Roast (Char Siu), 466 for Pork Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467 for Pork Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476 for Pork and Veal Skewers (Raznijci), 447 for Pork Vindaloo, 596 Red Wine Game, 372 Red Wine, for Grilled Meats, 374 for Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446 for Sauerbraten, 587 for Shrimp, Coconut Macadamia, 966 Teriyaki, 374 for Teriyaki, Beef, 445 Vegetables, Marinated Grilled, 686 for Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese, 1010 Marinated Eggplant Filling, 939 Marinated Grilled Vegetables, 686 Marinated Roasted Peppers, 694, 695 Marmalade, Roasted Red Pepper, 960 Marsala Sauce, 463, 504 Marshmallow, 1152 Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Ginger, 738-739 Mayonnaise, 903 Ai'oli, 904 Anchovy-Caper, 903 for Cole Slaw, 470 Curry, Apple Sandwich with, 943 Green, 903 Herb, Watercress Sandwich with, 943 Remoulade Sauce, 520 Tartar Sauce, 903
Meat. See also specific meats Brine, 999 and Cheese Omelet, 873 in Chefs Salad, 909 in Philly Hoagie, 934 Sauce, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Sauce, Pork Rolls and Sausage in, Braised, with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for, 371 Stock, and Poultry (Brodo), 266 Mechoui (Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Medium-Cooked Eggs, 866 Melon Salad, Summer, with Prosciutto, 919 Meringue Common, 1024 Italian, 1024 Lemon Meringue Pie, 1127 Swiss, 1024 Middle Eastern Chickpeas, 774 Milanese Sauce, 519 Milk Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks, 1136 Millet and Cauliflower Puree, 796 Minestrone alia Emiliana (Vegetable Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style), 357 Mint Barley Salad with Cucumber and, 800, 801 Sauce (Paloise), 297 Sauce, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481 and Yogurt Chutney, 462 Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696 Miso Soup, 353 Mixed Bean Salad, 929 Mixed Grain Pilaf, 796 Mixed Green Salad, 907 Mixed Grill, Brazilian, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Mizeria Klasyczna (Classic Polish Cucumber Salad), 920 Mojo (Latin Citrus Marinade), 373 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Molho Apimentado (Hot Pepper Sauce), 457 Monkfish, in Vatapa, 512 Mornay Sauce, 295 Poached Eggs, 869 Scrambled Eggs Gratine, 872 Moroccan Carrot Salad, 920 Moules a la Mariniere (Mussels with White Wine and Shallots), 974, 975 Mousse Blue Cheese, 953 Chocolate, 1104 Goat Cheese, 953 Raspberry, 1104-1105 Saffron, Poached Trout with, 5 5 4 -5 5 5 Smoked Salmon, 953 Mousseline Chicken, 996 Flounder, 993 Pork, 999 Salmon, 555, 993 Sauce, 298 Sole, 555 Trout and Saffron, 555 Mozzarella in Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad, 8 02, 803 in Eggplant Parmesan, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 and Tomato Salad, 928 Mu Chae (Sliced Daikon Salad), 922
Mudslide Cookies, 1089 Muffin(s) Basic Recipe, 1078 Blueberry, 1078,1080 Bran, 1078 Corn, 1079 Cranberry-Orange, 1078 Mushroom(s) in Bean Curd, Grandmother’s (Ma Po Dofu), 526,527 Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts, 916, 917 Duxelles Stuffing, Chicken Legs with, 482 Forcemeat, 484 in Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822 Omelet Marcel, 873 Poached Eggs with, 869 Portobello, Tofu Cakes with Mango Ketchup and, 971 Quesadillas with Two Salsas, 700 Risotto, Wild Mushroom, 783 in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 Sauce, 440 Sauce, Bercy, 830 Sausage, 598 Shiitake, Grilled, with Soy-Sesame Glaze, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Strudel with Goat Cheese, 978 Supreme Sauce, 294 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Vegetable Sandwich, Grilled, with Manchego Cheese, 940 Mussels in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 in New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Risotto with, 784 with White Wine and Shallots (Moules a la Mariniere), 975 Mustard Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce), 4 69 Spicy, 960 Vinaigrette, -Herb, 896 Vinaigrette, and Roasted Garlic, 896
n
Naan Bread, 1038,1039 New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 New England-Style Clam Chowder, 340 New Mexican Green Chile Stew, 595 Niban Dashi, 266 Noisettes of Pork with Green Peppercorns and Pineapple, 504 Noisettes of Pork with Red Onion Confit, 506 Noodle(s) Glass, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822 Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 Soup, Beef (Pho Bo), 569 Summer Squash, 704 Tempeh Cashew, 824, 825 Udon Noodle Pot, 566 North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce (Mustard Barbecue Sauce), 469 North Carolina Piedmont Sauce, 469 North Carolina Western Barbecue Sauce, 469 Nut-Banana Bread, 1079,1080 Nut Tuile Cookies, 1090
o Oatmeal Cookies, -Raisin, 1089 Oatmeal Pancakes, 1073 Octopus “Fairground Style” (Pulpo a Feira), 976 Oil(s) Basil, 906 Green Onion, 907 Orange, 907 Paprika, 907 Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes, 521 Olives in Greek Salad, 910, 911 Provencal Sauce, 501 Tapenade, 959 Omelet(s) Cheddar, Soufleed, 874 Cheese, 873 Cheese and Vegetable, 873 Egg White, Plain Rolled, 873 Farmer-Style, 873 Florentine, 873 Herb, 873 Jelly, 873 Marcel, 873 Meat and Cheese, 873 Opera, 873 Plain Rolled, 8 7 2 -8 7 3 Potato (Tortilla Espanola), 979 Seafood, 873 Shellfish, 873 Spanish, 873 Tomato, 873 Western, 873 for Wonton Soup, 354 -3 5 5 1-2-3 Cookie Dough, 1086 Onion(s) Cipollini, Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes and, 451 and Cucumber Salad (Kachumber), 919 Deep-Fried, 581 Deep-Fried, Baked Potatoes with, 735 Quiche, Caramelized, 876 Red, Confit, Noisettes of Pork with, 506 Red, Pickled, 962 Relish, Curried, 961 Soup, 335 Soup Gratinee, 335 Soup, White, 335 Sweet and Sour, Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with, 937 Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Orange(s) Chayote Salad with (Salada de Xuxu), 919 -Cranberry Compote, 689 -Cranberry Muffins, 1078 Creme Chantilly, -Scented, 1138 Cumberland Sauce, 955 Maltaise Sauce, 298 Oil, 907 Wheat Berry Salad with Cherries, Pecans and, 798, 799 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan, 820, 821 Oregano Sour Cream, Tomato Sandwich with, 944 and Sun-Dried Tomato Butter, 300 Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1 Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, 6 9 2 -6 9 3 Oxtails, Braised, 581 Oysters, in Fishermans Platter, 520
P
Pacific Seafood Chowder, 342 Pad Thai, 8 2 2 -8 2 3 Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties, 454 Paloise Sauce (M int), 297 Pancakes. See also Crepes Amaranth, 803 Banana, 1073 Blueberry, 1073 Buttermilk, 1073 Chocolate Chip, 1073 Oatmeal, 1073 Potato, 742, 743 Potato Latkes, 743 Spinach, 707 Zucchini, with Tzatziki, 6 8 8 Pan-Fried Breaded Pork Cutlets, 518 Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon, 522 Pan-Fried Dumplings (Guo Tie), 840, 841 Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets, 518 Pan-Fried Zucchini, 707 Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, 938, 939 Pan-Smoked Chicken, 483 Pan-Steamed Carrots, 684 Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts, 684 Panzanella, 927 Papaya -Black Bean Salsa, 955 Green Papaya Salad, 921 en Papillote Bass and Scallops, 553 Snapper, Fillet of, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 Paprika Oil, 907 Parmesan Eggplant, 6 9 6 -6 9 7 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe and, 820, 821 Polenta with, 792, 793 Risotto, 783 Parsley in Gremolata, 601 -Lemon Vinaigrette, 8 9 6 Persillade, 477 Potatoes, Boiled, 736, 737 Passion and Mango-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Pasta. See also Lasagna; Noodle(s) Basic Boiled, 819 alia Carbonara, 821 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan, 820, 821 Ravioli Bercy, 830 Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925 Pasta Dough, Fresh Egg, 819 Beet, 819 Black Pepper, 819 Buckwheat, 819 Carrot, 819 Citrus, 819 Curried, 819 Herbed, 819 Pumpkin, 819 Red Pepper, 819 Saffron, 819 Spinach, 819 Tomato, 819 Whole Wheat, 819 Pastry(ies). See also Pastry Dough; Pie(s); Quiche(s); Tart(s) Eclairs, 1085
Eclairs, Chocolate, 1085 Gougeres (Gruyere Cheese Puffs), 1084 Phyllo Tubes, 1137 Profiteroles, 1085 Profiteroles (Plated Dessert), 1156-1160 Profiteroles, Ice Cream-Filled, 1085 Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Cheese, 978 Pastry Cream, 1098 Chocolate, 1098 for Souffles, 1099 Pastry Dough Pate a Choux, 1084 Pate a Choux, Chocolate, 1160 Pate Brisee, 701 Pie (3-2-1), Basic, 1070 Puff Pastry, 1076-1077 Puff Pastry, Blitz, 1077 Tartlet Shells, 1144 Pate de Campagne (Country-Style Terrine), 998 Chicken Liver, 1004,1005 en Croute, Seafood, 1008-1 0 0 9 Dough, 1 0 0 6-1007 Dough, Saffron, 1006 Grand-Mere, 994 Spice, 1011 Pate a Choux, 1084 Chocolate, 1160 Pate Brisee, 701 Paupiettes Sole, Veronique, Poached, 557 Trout, Poached, with Vin Blanc Sauce, 556 Pea(s) French-Style, 712 Risotto, Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, Gingered, 684 Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 Split Pea Soup, Yellow, Puree of, 345 Peanut Dressing, 902 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar Dressing, 900 Peanut Sauce Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Pear(s) Blackberry and Port-Poached, with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Frangipane Tartlets, 1128 and Gorgonzola Sandwich, 944 Poached, 1128 Pearl Barley Pilaf, 780 Pecan(s) Brown Rice Pilaf with Green Onions and, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Carrots, 684 Diamonds, 1088 Pie, 1126 Pie, Cranberry-, 1126 Spicy Maple, Kasha with, 799 Wheat Berry Salad with Oranges, Cherries and, 798, 799 Peperoni Arrostiti (Roasted Peppers), 928 Pepper Black Peppercorn Dressing, Creamy, 904 Black Pepper Pasta, 819 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Green Peppercorns, Noisettes of Pork with Pineapple and, 504 Hot Crushed, Broccoli Rabe, with Garlic and (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino), 705
Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado), 457 Pepper(s). See Bell Peppers; Chiles; Red Pepper(s) Persillade, 477 Pescado Frito, 9 7 2 -9 7 3 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Pesto, 299 Pesto Vinaigrette, 901 Philly Hoagie, 934 Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup), 569 Phyllo Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Cheese, 978 Tubes, 1137 Picada, 612-613 Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles Rellenos con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese (Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce), 519 Pickle(d) Charcutiere Sauce, 508 Eggs, 868 Eggs, Red, 868 Ginger, 962 Red Onions, 962 Sweet, 472 Pico de Gallo, 953 Pie(s). See also Quiche(s); Tart(s) Apple, 1125 Cherry, 1126 Cranberry-Pecan, 1126 Dough, Basic (3-2-1), 1070 Lemon Meringue, 1127 Pecan,1126 Pork and Pepper (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo), 984 Pumpkin, 1127 Pierogi, Potato and Cheddar-Filled, with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Pilaf. See also Rice Pilaf Bulgur-Green Onion, 7 9 6 -7 9 7 Mixed Grain, 796 Pearl Barley, 780 Wheat Berry, 780 Wild Rice, 780 Pimiento Butter, 300 Pineapple -Jicama Salsa, 459 Mango and Passion-Poached, with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Noisettes of Pork with Green Peppercorns and, 504 Pinto Beans Creamed (Frijoles Maneados), 772 Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa, 773 Pistachios, Duck Terrine with Dried Cherries and, 1002-1003 Pita Bread, 1037 Pizza Crust, Semolina, 1037 Margherita, 1037 Spinach, 1037 Plain Rolled Omelet, 8 7 2 -8 7 3 Plantain Chips, Fried, 708, 709 Tostones, 708 Plated Desserts Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Date Spice Cake, Warm, with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Key Lime Tart, 1146-1147
RECIPE IN DEX
1197
Plated Desserts, continued Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote, 1142-1145 Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet, 1148-1150 Profiteroles, 1156-1160 S’mores, 1151-1155 Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce, 563 Poached Eggs. See Egg(s), Poached Poached Pears, 1128 Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 Poached Seafood in a Saffron Broth with Fennel, 570 Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique, 557 Poached Sole with Saffron Mousse, 555 Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558 Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce, 556 Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse, 554 -5 5 5 Poblanos Rellenos, 698, 699 Polenta Basic, 792 with Parmesan, 792, 793 Polish Cucumber Salad, Classic (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Polish Stuffed Cabbage, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Poppy Seed-Honey-Citrus Dressing, 898 Pork. See also Bacon; Ham; Sausage Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 -4 6 9 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Broth, Smoked, 334 Butt with Coleslaw, 470 -4 7 1 in Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 in Cassoulet, 594 Chops, Baked Stuffed, 465 Chops, Grilled or Broiled, with Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Chops, Grilled Smoked Iowa, 4 4 8 -4 4 9 in Choucroute, 5 9 2-593, 593 Cutlet with Sauce Robert, 508 Cutlets, Pan-Fried Breaded, 518 Dim Sum, 837 Dumplings, Pan-Fried (Guo Tie), 840, 841 Dumplings, Steamed (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Goulash, 599 Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 in a Green Curry Sauce, 596 Medallions with Cabbage Salad, Warm, 506 Medallions of, Sauteed, with Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Mousseline, 999 Noisettes of, with Green Peppercorns and Pineapple, 504 Noisettes of, with Red Onion Confit, 506 Pate Grand-Mere, 994 and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo), 984 Picadillo Oaxaqueno, Chiles Rellenos con, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Ribs, Guava-Glazed, 467
RE CIPE IN DEX
Ribs, Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476 Ribs, St. Louis-Style, 475 Roast, Cantonese (Char Siu), 466 Roast with Jus Lie, 465 Rolls and Sausage, Braised, in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Scaloppine with Tomato Sauce, 503 Skewers, and Veal (Raznjici), 447 in Spring Rolls, 980 Stock, Brown, 264 Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Tenderloin Roulade, 999 Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), 998 Tinga Poblano, 530 Vindaloo, 596 Port and Blackberry-Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies, 1139-1141 Portobello Mushrooms, Tofu Cakes with Mango Ketchup and, 971 Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb, 605 Potage Garbure, 346 Potato(es) Anna, 744 Baked, with Deep-Fried Onions, 735 Beef, Boiled, with Spatzle and (Gaisburger Marsch), 570 Berny, 747 Chateau, 740 in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 , 593 Corned Beef, Hash, Poached Eggs with, 869 Corned Beef Hash with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Croquette, 748 Delmonico, 740 Duchesse, 737 French-Fried, 747 Gnocchi Piedmontese, 8 3 2 -8 3 3 au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise), 739 in Green Chile Stew, New Mexican, 595 Hash Brown, 740-741 Latkes, 743 in Leg of Lamb Boulangere, Roast, 476 Lorette, 748 Lyonnaise, 739 Macaire, 744 in New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Omelet (Tortilla Espanola), 979 Pancakes, 742, 743 Parsley, Boiled, 736, 737 Pierogi, and Cheddar-Filled, with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage, 8 4 2 -8 4 3 Potage Garbure, 346 Roasted Tuscan-Style, 738 Rosti, 744-745 Salad, 926 Salad, European-Style, 926 Salad, German, 749 in Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Souffied, 748 in Tinga Poblano, 530 Tortilla de Papas, 750 Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), 979 Vichyssoise, 347 Whipped, 517, 735 Pot Roast, Yankee, 586
Potstickers, 837 Poule au Pot (Chicken with Vegetables), 565 Poultry and Meat Stock (Brodo), 266 Spit-Roasted, Seasoning Mix for, 371 Pound Cake, 1081 Prawn and Chicken Ragout (Mar i Muntanya), 6 12-613 Preserved Lemons, 611 Profiteroles, 1085 Ice Cream-Filled, 1085 Plated Dessert, 1156-1160 Prosciutto and Eggplant Panini, 938, 939 Melon Salad with, Summer, 919 Proven^al(-Style) Beef Tournedos, 501 Chicken, 501 Sauce, 501 Vegetables, Grilled, 686 Pudding, Bread and Butter, 1106 Puff Pastry in Beef Wellington, 463 Dough, 1076-1077 Dough, Blitz, 1077 Pulpo a Feira (Octopus “Fairground Style”), 976 Pumpkin Bread, 1080,1081 Pasta, 819 Pie, 1127 Puree. See also Coulis Butternut Squash, 691 Millet and Cauliflower, 796 Puree Soup(s) Bean, Senate, 346 of Black Bean, Caribbean-Style, 345 of Lentil, 344 Potage Garbure, 346 of Split Pea, 345 of Split Pea, Yellow, 345 Vichyssoise, 347 Puri (Fried Bread), 1074
q
Qinchao Shanghai Baicai (Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy), 70 2 -7 0 3 Quatre Epices, 369 Quesadillas, Mushroom, with Two Salsas, 700 Quiche(s) Broccoli and Cheddar, 876 Lorraine, 876 Onion, Caramelized, 876 Smoked Salmon and Dill, 876 Spinach, 876 Tomato and Leek, 876 Quick Bread. See Bread(s), Quick
r
Ragout, Chicken and Prawn (Mar i Muntanya), 6 12-613 Ragu Bolognese (Bolognese Sauce), 296 Raisin Bread with Cinnamon Swirl, 1042, 1043 -Oatmeal Cookies, 1089 Scones, 1072 Ranch-Style Dressing, 905 Raspberry Coulis, 1129 Ice Cream, 1103 Mousse, 1104-1105 Ratatouille, 708 Ravigote, Seafood, 930
Ravioli Bercy, 830 Raznjici (Pork and Veal Skewers), 447 Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777 Red Cabbage, Braised, 711 Red Curry Paste, 370 Red Onion(s) Confit, Noisettes of Pork with, 506 Pickled, 962 Red Pepper(s) Artichoke and Pepper Salad, 750 Coulis, 299 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Marinated Roasted, 695 Pasta, 819 Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Red Pickled Eggs, 868 Red Snapper. See Snapper Red Wine Marinade Game, 372 for Grilled Meats, 374 Lamb, 372 for Sauerbraten, 587 Red Wine Sauce Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Marchand de Vin, 441 Milanese, 519 Red Wine Vinaigrette, 896 and Walnut Oil, 901 Relish Cranberry, 961 Onion, Curried, 961 Remoulade Sauce, 520 Reuben Sandwich, 942 Tempeh, 942 Rib Eye Steak, Grilled, 446 Rib Roast au Jus, Standing, 464 Ribs, Pork Guava-Glazed, 467 Lacquer-Roasted (Kao Paigu), 476 St. Louis-Style, 475 Rice. See also Rice Pilaf; Risotto; Wild Rice Annatto, 781 Arroz Blanco, 781 Arroz Brasileiro, 782 Arroz Mexicano, 782 Basic Boiled, 785 and Beans, 776 Chicken Soup (Canja), 336 Coconut, 7 8 2 -7 8 3 Congee, 795 Croquettes, 792 Fried, with Chinese Sausage, 787 in Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790-791 Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Red Beans and Boiled Rice, 777 Saffron, 788 Salad, Curried, 930 Steamed Long-Grain (Lo Han), 444, 785 Sticky, Thai, with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Sushi, 785 Tomato Soup with, Cream of, 339 Rice Pilaf, 780 Brown, with Pecans and Green Onions, 7 8 0 -7 8 1 Converted White, 780 Short-Grain Brown, 781 Short-Grain White (Valencia), 780 Wild Rice, 780 Ricotta Cream, 1140 Gnocchi di, 831
in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 Rigatoni, Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Risi e Bisi (Green Pea Risotto), 783 Risotto, 783 with Asparagus, 783 Cakes, Corn and Asiago Cheese, 805 Fritters, Fontina, 804 Green Pea (Risi e Bisi), 783 alia Milanese, 783 with Mussels, 784 Parmesan, 783 Vegetarian, 784 Wild Mushroom, 783 Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy, 482 Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Roasted Carrots, 695 Roasted Garlic and Mustard Vinaigrette, 896 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade, 960 Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous (Mechoui), 4 7 8 -4 7 9 Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes, 738 Roasted Vegetable Stock, 265 Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere, 476 Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne), 480 Roast Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce, 481 Roast Rack of Lamb Persille, 477 Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuffing, 4 8 5 - 4 8 6 Robert Sauce, 508 Robiola Cheese, Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Walnuts and, 916, 917 Rock Cornish Game Hen, Breast of, with Mushroom Forcemeat, 4 8 3 -4 8 4 Rolls Cottage Dill, 1039 Hard, 1036 Soft Dinner, 1045 Romaine, Braised, 711 Roman-Style Lima Beans, 774 Roquefort, Endive Salad with Walnuts and (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Rosemary, Grilled Lamb Chops with Artichokes, Cipollini Onions and, 451 Rosti Potatoes, 744-745 Roulade Foie Gras, 1001 Pork Tenderloin, 999 Rouladen, Beef, in Burgundy Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Rouladen Stuffing, 585 Royale Custard, 333 Royal Gla^age, 557 Russian Dressing, 942
S Sabayon, 1129 Sable Cookies, 1140 Sachet d’Epices, 599, 774 Saffron Broth with Fennel, Seafood Poached in a, 570 Pasta, 819 Pate Dough, 1006
Rice, 788 and Trout Mousseline, 555 Saigon Crepes, 804 St. Louis-Style Ribs, 475 Salad(s) Artichoke and Pepper, 750 Barley, with Cucumber and Mint, 800, 801 Bean, Mixed, 929 Bean Curd, Smoked, and Celery, 908 Black-Eyed Pea, Warm, 929 Bread, Eastern Mediterranean (Fattoush), 926 Bulgur, Sweet and Spicy, 800 Cabbage, Warm, 506 Caesar, 908 Carrot, Moroccan, 920 Celeriac and Tart Apple, 918 Chayote, with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu), 919 Chefs, 909 Chicken, 923 Chicken, Hue-Style, 924 Cobb, 912, 913 Coleslaw, 920 Corn and Jicama, 921 Cracked Wheat and Tomato, 802, 803 Cucumber, 9 2 2 -9 2 3 Cucumber, Polish, Classic (Mizeria Klasyczna), 920 Cucumber and Wakame (Sunonomo), 922 Cucumber, Yogurt, 923 Daikon, Sliced (Mu Chae), 922 Egg, 925 Endive, with Roquefort and Walnuts (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Greek, 910, 911 Green, Mixed, 907 Ham, 925 Iceberg, Wedge of, with Thousand Island Dressing, 909 Jicama, 921 Lentil, Green (Salade des Lentilles du Puy), 928 Lobster, with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil, 983 Melon, Summer, with Prosciutto, 919 Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts, 916, 917 Onion and Cucumber (Kachumber), 919 Panzanella, 927 Papaya, Green, 921 Pasta, with Pesto Vinaigrette, 925 Peppers, Roasted (Peperoni Arrostiti), 928 Potato, 926 Potato, European-Style, 926 Potato, German, 749 Rice, Curried, 930 Seafood Ravigote, 930 Shrimp, 925 Spinach, Baby, Avocado, and Grapefruit, 918 Spinach, Wilted, with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 9 14-915 Sweet Potato, Curried, 749 Taco, 913 Thai Table, 908 Tomato and Mozzarella, 928 Tuna, 924 Tuna and Bean (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli), 975
Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta), 964, 965 Waldorf, 918 Watercress and Apple, Sherried, 917 Wheat Berry, with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans, 798,7 9 9 Salada de Xuxu (Chayote Salad with Oranges), 919 Salad Dressing. See also Mayonnaise; Oil(s); Vinaigrette Black Peppercorn, Creamy, 904 Blue Cheese, 904 in Caesar Salad, 908 Caesar-Style, 902 Catalina French, 902 Cucumber, 903 Green Goddess, 901 Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus, 898 Japanese, 905 Peanut, 902 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar, 900 Ranch-Style, 905 Russian, 942 Thousand Island, 906 Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives (Endive Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts), 910-911 Salade des Lentilles du Puy (Green Lentil Salad), 928 Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981 Salmon Ancho-Crusted, with Yellow Pepper Sauce, 510-511 Fillet with Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust, 4 8 6 Gravlax, 1011 Mousseline, 555 Smoked and Horseradish Crust, Salmon Fillet with, 486 Mousse, 953 Platter, 963 Poached Eggs with, 871 Quiche, and Dill, 876 Terrine, and Seafood, 993 Salsa Cruda, 965 Fruit, 1130 Grapefruit, 955 Papaya-Black Bean, 955 Pico de Gallo, 953 Pineapple-Jicama, 459 Roja, 954 Summer Squash, 699 Verde Asada, 954 Verde Cruda, 954 Salt Cod Cakes, Old-Fashioned, 521 Salt Herbs, 481 Samosas, 970 Sandwich(es) Apple, with Curry Mayonnaise, 943 Barbecue, Carolina, 4 6 8 - 4 6 9 Barbecued Beef, 936 Cheese Melt, Three-, 940 Chicken Burger, 936 Club, CIA, 934, 935 Croque Monsieur, 937 Cucumber, with Herbed Cream Cheese, 943 Gorgonzola and Pear, 944 Hoagie, Philly, 934 Panini, Eggplant and Prosciutto, 938, 939 Reuben, 942 Reuben, Tempeh, 942 Tomato, with Oregano Sour Cream, 944 Turkey, Open-Faced, with Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Vegetable, Grilled, with Manchego Cheese, 940, 941
Watercress, with Herb Mayonnaise, 943 Satay Beef, with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Seitan, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Sauce(s). See also Butter(s); Dessert Sauce; Dipping Sauce; Gravy; Salsa Apple Cider, 448 Barbecue. See Barbecue Sauce Bearnaise, 297 Bechamel, 295 Bigarade, Roast Duckling with, 4 8 4 -4 8 5 Black Bean, 458 Black Ink, Baby Squid in (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 Burgundy, Beef Rouladen in, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Charcutiere, 508 Cheddar Cheese, 295 Choron, 297 Cream, 295 Cumberland, 955 Demi-Glace, 293 Dill, 447 Espagnole, 294 Fines Herbes, 500 Fruit, Winter, 505 Garlic, Sweet, 524 Green Curry, Pork in, 596 Hollandaise, 298 Hollandaise, Lemony, Asparagus with, 6 8 8 -6 8 9 Hot Pepper (Molho Apimentado), 457 Jus Lie. See Jus Lie Madeira, 463 Maltaise, 298 Marchand de Vin, 441 Marsala, 463, 504 Meat, Bolognese (Ragu Bolognese), 296 Meat, Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in, with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Milanese, 519 Mint (Paloise), 297 Mint, Roast Leg of Lamb with, 481 Mole Negro, 5 8 8 -5 8 9 Mornay, 295 Mousseline, 298 Mushroom, 440 Mushroom Bercy, 830 Peanut, Beef Satay with, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Peanut, Spicy, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Pesto, 299 Provencal, 501 Red Pepper Coulis, 299 Remoulade, 520 Robert, 508 Sherry Vinegar, 450 Southwest-Style, Chef Clark’s, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 Supreme, 294 Taco, 914 Tarragon, Poached Chicken Breast with, 563 Tomato, 295 Tomato Coulis, 296 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 Veloute. See Veloute Veracruzana, Pescado, 562 Vin Blanc, Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Vin Blanc, Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Yellow Pepper, 511 Yogurt Cucumber, 957
RECIPE IN D E X
1199
Sauerbraten, 587 Sauerkraut Braised, 712 in Choucroute, 5 9 2 -5 9 3 Homemade, 593 in Reuben Sandwich, 942 in Reuben, Tempeh, 942 in Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597 Sausage Bratwurst, Scrambled Eggs with, 872 in Cassoulet, 594 Chinese, Fried Rice with, 787 Chorizo, Black Beans with Peppers and, 7 6 8 -7 6 9 in Choucroute, 592 -5 9 3 Italian, Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe, Parmesan and, 820, 821 in Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana, 8 2 5 -8 2 6 Mushroom, 598 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 and Pork Rolls, Braised, in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni), 5 9 0 -5 9 1 Sauteed Arugula, 702 Sauteed Chicken with Fines Herbes Sauce, 500 Sauteed Medallions of Pork with Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere, 513 Savory Cheese Souffle, 874 Scallions. See also Green Onion(s) and Beef, Skewered, 446 Scallops and Bass en Papillote, 553 Cioppino, 562 -5 6 3 Fisherman’s Platter, 520 New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Seviche of, 962 Scaloppine Pork, with Tomato Sauce, 503 Veal, Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4 Scones Cream, 1072 Ham and Cheddar, 1072 Raisin, 1072 Scrambled Eggs. See Egg(s), Scrambled Scrod, Boston, with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes, 561 Sea Bass, Poached, with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers, 553 Seafood. See Fish; Octopus; Shellfish; Squid Seasonal Vegetable Tarts, 701 Seasoning Mixes. See Spice Mixes Seitan Satay, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Semolina Gnocchi di, Gratinati, 831 Pizza Crust, 1037 Senate Bean Soup, 346 Sesame-Soy Glaze, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Seviche of Scallops, 962 Shallots, Crispy, 924 Shao-Mai (Steamed Dumplings), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Shellfish. See also Clam(s); Lobster; Mussels; Shrimp Broth, 334 Chowder, Conch, 341 Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Crab Cakes, Chesapeake-Style, 9 68, 969 Essence, 996
1200
REC IPE IN D E X
Fisherman’s Platter, 520 New England Shore Dinner, 560, 561 Omelet, 873 Omelet, Seafood, 873 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009 Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel, Seafood, 570 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Scallops and Bass en Papillote, 553 Scallops, Seviche of, 962 Stock, 264 Terrine, Crayfish and Chicken, 996 Terrine, Seafood and Salmon, 993 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Sherried Watercress and Apple Salad, 917 Sherry Vinegar Sauce, 450 Shiitake Mushrooms in Glass Noodles, Stir-Fried (Jap Chae), 822 Grilled, with Soy-Sesame Glaze, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Short-Grain Brown Rice Pilaf, 781 Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf (Valencia), 780 Short Ribs, Braised, 584 Korean (Kalbi Jjim ), 5 8 2 -5 8 3 Shrimp Bisque, 347 Broiled, with Garlic, 969 Chowder, Pacific Seafood, 342 in Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Coconut Macadamia, 966 in Dumplings, Steamed (ShaoMai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 in Fisherman’s Platter, 520 Gumbo, and Chicken, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 in Hot and Sour Soup, Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354 Mirlitons, -Stuffed, 696 in Paella Valenciana, 788, 789 Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled (Chao Tom), 977 Pate en Croute, Seafood, 1 0 0 8 1009 Ragout, Prawn and Chicken (Mar i Muntanya), 612-613 Ravigote, Seafood, 930 Salad, 925 in Salad Rolls, Vietnamese, 981 in Samosas, 970 Stuffed, 970 Tempura, 523 Ticin-Xic, 513 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 in Vatapa, 512 Veloute, 294 Simple Syrup, 1023 Sirloin Steak Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445 Grilled or Broiled, with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Grilled or Broiled, with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Grilled or Broiled, with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Skewers, Skewered Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce, 9 8 2 -9 8 3 Beef and Scallions, 446 Lamb, Indian Grilled, with Fresh Mango Chutney, 4 5 2 -4 5 3 Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter, Broiled, 447 Pork and Veal (Raznjici), 447 Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane, Grilled (Chao Tom), 977
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae), 922 Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad, 908 Smoked Brisket with Sweet Pickles, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 , 537 Smoked Salmon. See Salmon, Smoked S’mores, 1151-1155 Snapper Fillet of, en Papillote, 5 5 8 -5 5 9 in Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Red, with Grapefruit Salsa, 509 Snow Peas and Yellow Squash, Gingered, 684 Soda Bread, Irish, 1072 Soft-Cooked Eggs, 866 Soft Dinner Rolls, 1045 Sole Mousseline, 555 Paupiettes Veronique, Poached, 557 Poached, with Saffron Mousse, 555 Poached, with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce, 558 Sorbet, Cilantro, 1149 Souffle(s) Artichoke, 875 Cheese, Savory, 874 Chocolate, 1106 Pastry Cream for, 1099 Spinach, 874 Souffleed Cheddar Omelet, 874 Souffleed Potatoes, 748 Soup(s). See also Broth; Chowder; Consomme; Stock(s) Bean, Senate, 346 Beef Noodle (Pho Bo), 569 Beef, Spicy (Yukkaejang), 351 Bisque, Lobster, 348 Bisque, Shrimp, 347 Black Bean, Puree of, CaribbeanStyle, 345 Cheddar Cheese and Beer, Wisconsin, 340 Chicken Rice (Canja), 336 Chicken, Thai, with Coconut Milk and Galangal, 353 Corn and Chicken, Amish, 334 Cream of Asparagus (Creme d’Argenteuil), 339 of Broccoli, 339 of Celery (Creme de Celeri), 339 of Tomato, 339 of Tomato with Rice, 339 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho), 349 Gumbo, Chicken and Shrimp, 3 4 8 -3 4 9 Ham Bone and Collard Greens, 350 Hot and Sour, Chinese (Suan La Tang), 350 Hot and Sour, Thai (Tom Yum Kung), 354 Lentil, Puree of, 344 Minestrone, 357 Miso, 353 Onion, 335 Onion, Gratinee, 335 Onion, White, 335 Potage Garbure, 346 Split Pea, Puree of, 345 Split Pea, Yellow, Puree of, 345 Tortilla, 335 Vegetable, Emilia-Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana), 357 Vichyssoise, 347 White Bean and Escarole, Tuscan, 355 Wonton, 3 5 4 -3 5 5
Sour Cream Oregano, Tomato Sandwich with, 944 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 White Sauce, 1154 Southwest-Style Sauce, Chef Clark’s, 4 7 2 -4 7 3 Southwest White Bean Stew, 775 Soy Cilantro-Lime Sauce, 956 -Ginger Dipping Sauce, 841 -Sesame Glaze, Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with, 6 8 6 -6 8 7 Soybeans, Boiled Edamame, 444, 681 Spaghetti Squash, 690, 691 Spanish Omelet, 873 Spatzle, 834 Spice Mixes. See also specific spices Barbecue, 368 Bouquet Garni, 774 Chili Powder, 368 Curry Powder, 369 Fines Herbes, 369 Five-Spice Powder, Chinese, 368 Garam Masala, 368 Jerk Seasoning, 459 for Lamb, Roasted Shoulder of, and Couscous (Mechoui), 478 for Mushroom Sausage, 598 Pate, 1011 Quatre Epices, 369 Sachet d’Epices, 599, 774 for Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry, 371 Spice Paste Curry, Green, 370 Curry, Red, 370 Curry, Yellow, 371 for Pork Vindaloo, 596 Spice Rub BBQ, 791 Herb, 982 Spicy Beef Soup (Yukkaejang), 351 Spicy Mango Chutney, 961 Spicy Mustard, 960 Spicy Peanut Sauce, 4 4 2 -4 4 3 Spinach Eggs Florentine, 871 Omelet Florentine, 873 Pancakes, 707 Pasta, 819 Pizza, 1037 Quiche, 876 Salad, Baby, Avocado, and Grapefruit, 918 Salad, Wilted, with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 914-915 Souffle, 874 Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 Yellow, 345 Sponge Cake Chocolate, 1083 Vanilla, 1083 Spring Roll Dipping Sauce, 957 Spring Rolls, 980 Squash Acorn, Baked, with CranberryOrange Compote, 689 Butternut, Puree, 691 Butternut, in Risotto, Vegetarian, 784 Mirlitons, Shrimp-Stuffed, 696 Spaghetti, 690, 691 Summer. See Yellow Squash; Zucchini Squid Baby, in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean), 976 in Pescado Frito, 9 7 2-973 Stir-Fried, with Thai Basil, 515
Standing Rib Roast au Jus, 464 Steak(s) Barbecued, with Herb Crust, 445 Brazilian Mixed Grill, 4 5 6 -4 5 7 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Maitre d’Hotel Butter, 440 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Marchand de Vin Sauce, 441 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin, with Mushroom Sauce, 440 Grilled Rib Eye, 446 Steamed Broccoli, 681 Steamed Dumplings (Shao-Mai), 8 3 8 -8 3 9 Steamed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han), 785 Stew(s). See also Goulash Beef, 589 Cassoulet, 594 Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya), 612-613 Cioppino, 5 6 2 -5 6 3 Green Chile, New Mexican, 595 Irish, 608 Lamb and Chicken, Couscous with, 609 Lamb Navarin, 606 Veal Blanquette, 597 White Bean, Southwest, 775 Stewed Black Beans, 775 Sticky Buns, 1046 Sticky Rice, Thai, with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (Jap Chae), 822 Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai), 7 02-703 Stir-Fried Squid with Thai Basil, 515 Stock(s). See also Broth; Consomme; Soup(s) in Aspic, 995 Beef, White, 263 Chicken, 263 Chicken, Brown, 264 Court Bouillon, 265 Dashi, Ichi Ban, 267 Duck, Brown, 264 Estouffade, 264 Fish Fumet, 264 Game, Brown, 264 Lamb, Brown, 264 Pork, Brown, 264 Poultry and Meat (Brodo), 266 Shellfish, 264 Veal, Brown, 263 Veal, White, 263 Vegetable, 265 Vegetable, Roasted, 265 Strawberry Coulis, 1146 Straws, Chocolate, 1160 Strudel, Mushroom, with Goat Cheese, 978 Stuffed Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce, 5 8 4 -5 8 5 Cabbage, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Chicken, Breast of, with Duxelles Stuffing and Sauce Supreme, 515 Chicken Legs with Duxelles Stuffing, 482 Chiles Rellenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno, 5 2 8 -5 2 9 Leg of Lamb, Portuguese, 605 Lobster, Broiled, 4 6 0 -4 6 1 Mirlitons, Shrimp-, 696 Pork Chops, Baked, 465 Shrimp, 970 Stuffing Chestnut, 486
Duxelles, 482 Forcemeat, Herbed, 605 Forcemeat, Mushroom, 484 Rouladen, 585 Suan La Tang (Chinese Hot and Sour Soup), 350 Sugar, Cinnamon, 1043 Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto, 919 Summer Squash. See Yellow Squash; Zucchini Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter, 300 Sunonomo (Cucumber and Wakame Salad), 922 Supreme Sauce, 294 Sushi Rice, 785 Swedish-Style Scrambled Eggs, 872 Sweet Dough, 1045 Sweet Garlic Sauce, 524 Sweet Pickles, 472 Sweet Potato(es) Chips, 746, 747 Glazed, 738 Mashed, with Ginger, 7 3 8 -7 3 9 Salad, Curried, 749 Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad, 800 Swiss Meringue, 1024 Swiss-Style Veal, Emince of, 502, 503 Syrup, Simple, 1023 Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas), 597
t
Taco Salad, 913 Taco Sauce, 914 Tagine, Chicken, 610-611 Tangerine-Flavored Chicken, Crispy, 5 24 -5 2 5 Tapenade, 959 Tarragon in Bearnaise Sauce, 297 Butter, 300 Sauce, Poached Chicken Breast with, 563 Tart(s). See also Pie(s); Quiche Frangipane Pear Tartlets, 1128 Key Lime, 1146-1147 Lemon Souffle, with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote, 1142-1145 Shells, Tartlet, 1144 Vegetable, Seasonal, 701 Tartar Sauce, 903 Tempeh Cashew Noodles, 824, 825 Reuben, 942 Tempura Dipping Sauce, 523 Shrimp, 523 Vegetable, 708 Teriyaki, Beef, 445 Teriyaki Marinade, 374 Terrine Chicken and Crayfish, 9 9 6 ,1 0 0 5 Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), 998 Duck, with Pistachios and Dried Cherries, 1002-1003 Duck and Smoked Ham, 1 0 0 4 1005 Foie Gras, 1001 Seafood and Salmon, 993 Vegetable, with Goat Cheese, 1010 Venison, 1002 Thai Basil, Stir-Fried Squid with, 515 Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and Galangal, 353 Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung), 354
Sticky Rice with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo), 787 Table Salad, 908 Thousand Island Dressing, 906 Three-Cheese Melt, 940 Tinga Poblano, 530 Tofu. See also Bean Curd Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup, 971 Tomatillos Salsa Verde Asada, 954 Salsa Verde Cruda, 954 Tomato(es) Coulis, 296 and Cracked Wheat Salad, 802, 803 Deviled Eggs with, 866 Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho), 349 Ketchup, Mango, Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and, 971 and Mozzarella Salad, 928 Omelet, 873 Oven-Roasted, 692 Pasta, 819 Pescado Veracruzana, 562 Pico de Gallo, 953 Potage Garbure, 346 Quiche, and Leek, 876 in Ratatouille, 708 Salsa Roja, 954 Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream, 944 Sauce, 295 Sauce, Provencal, 501 Soup, Cream of, 339 Soup, Cream of, with Rice, 339 Sun-Dried, and Oregano Butter, 300 in Tortilla Soup, 335 Vinaigrette, Fire-Roasted, 899 Tom Yum Kung (Thai Hot and Sour Soup), 354 Tortilla(s) Chips, 962 Flour, in Mushroom Quesadillas with Two Salsas, 700 Soup, 335 in Taco Salad, 913 Tortilla de Papas, 750 Tortilla Espanola (Potato Omelet), 979 Tostones, 708 Trout Amandine, 509 Brook, Pan-Fried, with Bacon, 522 a la Meuniere, Sauteed, 513 Mousseline, and Saffron, 555 Paupiettes, Poached, with Vin Blanc Sauce, 556 Poached, with Saffron Mousse, 5 5 4 -5 5 5 Truffle Centers, Beignet, 1153 Truffle Vinaigrette, 900 Tuile Nut Cookies, 1090 Tuiles, 1144 Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli), 975 Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alia Battuta), 964, 965 Salad, 924 Vitello Tonnato, 983 Turkey Broth, 334 in Club, CIA, 934, 935 in Cobb Salad, 913 Roast, with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuffing, 4 8 5 -4 8 6 Sandwich, Open-Faced, with Sweet and Sour Onions, 937 Tuscan-Style Potatoes, Roasted, 738
Tuscan White Bean and Escarole Soup, 355 Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean (Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce), 976
U Udon Noodle(s) Pot, 566 Tempeh Cashew, 825
V Vanilla Caramel Sauce, 1159 Ice Cream, 1102,1103 Ice Cream, for Profiteroles, 1156, 1157 Sauce, 1099 Sponge Cake, 1083 Vatapa, 512 Veal Blanquette, 597 Breast, Braised, with Mushroom Sausage, 598 Broth, 334 Cabbage, Stuffed, Polish, 6 0 2 -6 0 3 Cordon Bleu, 519 Cutlets, Pan-Fried, 518 Demi-Glace, 293 Emince of, Swiss-Style, 502, 503 Espagnole Sauce, 294 Forcemeat Stuffing, Herbed, 605 Fricassee, 612 Jus de Veau Lie, 293 Mushroom Sausage, 598 Osso Buco Milanese, 6 0 0 -6 0 1 Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese), 519 Scaloppine Marsala, 5 0 3 -5 0 4 Shoulder Poele, 464 Skewers, and Pork (Raznjici), 447 Stock, Brown, 263 Stock, White, 263 Terrine, Country-Style (Pate de Campagne), 998 Vitello Tonnato, 983 Wiener Schnitzel, 518 Vegetable(s). See also specific vegetables in Beef Stew, 589 and Cheese Omelet, 873 Chicken with (Poule au Pot), 565 Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables, 5 6 6 -5 6 7 Court Bouillon, 265 Grilled, Marinated, 686 Grilled, Proven£al-Style, 686 Grilled, Sandwich with Manchego Cheese, 940, 941 in Irish Stew, 608 Jambalaya, Grilled, 7 90-791 Jardiniere, 705 Julienne, 706 Julienne, Poached Sole with Vin Blanc Sauce and, 558 in Lamb Navarin, 606 Macedoine of, 706 Minestrone, 357 New England Shore Dinner, 5 6 0 -5 6 1 Potage Garbure, 346 in Pot Roast, Yankee, 586 Ratatouille, 708 Soup, Emilia-Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana), 357 Stock, 265 Stock, Roasted, 265 Tarts, Seasonal, 701
RECIPE IN D E X
1201
Vegetable(s), continued Tempura, 708 Terrine, with Goat Cheese, 1010 in Udon Noodle Pot, 566 Veloute, 294 Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes, 770, 771 Vegetarian Chili, 778-779 Vegetarian Risotto, 784 Veloute Chicken, 294 Fish, 294 Shrimp, 294 Vegetable, 294 Venison Terrine, 1002 Vichyssoise, 347 Vietnamese Dipping Sauce, 956 Vietnamese Salad Rolls, 981 Vinaigrette Almond-Fig, 897 Apple Cider, 897 Bacon, Warm, Wilted Spinach Salad with, 914-915 Balsamic, 897 Chipotle-Sherry, 896 Curry, 898 Garlic, Roasted, and Mustard, 896 Gourmande, 901 Guava-Curry, 899 Lemon-Garlic, 896 Lemon-Parsley, 896 Mustard-Herb, 896 Pesto, 901 Red Wine, 896 Tomato, Fire-Roasted, 899 Truffle, 900 Truffle, and Herb, 900 Walnut Oil and Red Wine, 901 White Wine, 896
Vin Blanc Sauce Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Vinegar Sauce, Sherry, 450 Vitello Tonnato, 983
W Waffles, Basic, 1073 Wakame and Cucumber Salad (Sunonomo), 922 Waldorf Salad, 918 Walnut Oil and Red Wine Vinaigrette, 901 Walnuts Endive Salad with Roquefort and (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives), 910-911 Green Beans with, 685 Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and, 916, 917 in Waldorf Salad, 918 Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad, 929 Warm Cabbage Salad, 506 Warm Date Spice Cake with Butterscotch Sauce and Cinnamon Ice Cream, 1134-1138 Warm Goat Cheese Custard, 875 Wasabi, 960 Watercress and Apple Salad, Sherried, 917 Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise, 943 Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Island Dressing, 909 Western Omelet, 873
Wheat Berry Pilaf, 780 in Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans, 798, 799 Whipped Cream for Garnish (Chantilly), 1023 Whipped Potatoes, 517, 735 White Bean(s) and Asparagus Lasagna, 829 Boiled, 777 and Escarole Soup, Tuscan, 355 Stew, Southwest, 775 White Onion Soup, 335 White Sauce, 1154 White Stock Beef, 263 Veal, 263 White Wine Fruit Sauce, Winter, 505 Sauce Robert, 508 Vinaigrette, 896 Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and, 558 Vin Blanc Sauce, Poached Trout Paupiettes with, 556 Whole Wheat Pasta, 819 Wiener Schnitzel, 518 Wild Mushroom Risotto, 783 Wild Rice Cakes, 806 Pilaf, 780 Pilaf, Mixed Grain, 796 Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette, 914-915 Winter Fruit Sauce, 505 Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup, 340 Wonton Soup, 3 5 4 -3 5 5
y
Yankee Pot Roast, 586 Yeast Bread. See Bread(s), Yeast Yellow Curry Paste, 371 Yellow Pepper Sauce, 511 Yellow Split Pea Soup, Puree of, 345 Yellow Squash Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Noodles, Summer Squash, 704 Salsa, Summer Squash, 699 and Snow Peas, Gingered, 684 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701 Yogurt Cucumber Salad, 923 Cucumber Sauce, 957 Lamb Khorma, 607 and Mint Chutney, 462 Tzatziki, Zucchini Pancakes with, 688 Yukkaejang (Spicy Beef Soup), 351
Z Zabaglione, 1129 Z’hug, 960 Zucchini Grilled Vegetables Provencal, 686 Jambalaya, Grilled Vegetable, 790, 791 Noodles, Summer Squash, 704 Pancakes with Tzatziki, 688 Pan-Fried, 707 Ratatouille, 708 Salsa, Summer Squash, 699 Vegetable Tarts, Seasonal, 701
subject index a
Abalone, 119 Acid, in marinades, 363 Acidity, food, 33 Acini de pepe, 214 Acorn squash, 153 Administrative duties, 5 Adzuki beans, 217,1161 Aerobic bacteria, 33 Agricultural production methods, 11,128 Aioli, 887 Albacore (tombo), 111 Albufera sauce, 278 Alcohol abuse, staff, 39 Al dente, 649, 815 Alkalinity, food, 33 Allemande sauce, 278 Allergies, food, 37 All-purpose flour, 202, 203 Allspice, 222, 223 Almonds, 219, 220 Aluminum pots and pans, 56 Amaranth, 210, 211 Amberjack, 113
1202
SUB JE C T IN D E X
Americaine sauce, 278 Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), 39 Amino acids, 24 Anaheim chiles, 164,165 Anardana, 223 Ancho chiles, 164 Anchovy, 116 Angel food cake, 1020,1021,1059, 1061 Angel hair pasta, 213-214 Anglerfish (monkfish), 114,115 Anise, 222, 223 Annatto, 223 Announcer (aboyeur), 9 Appetizers mousse, cold savory, 9 4 8 -9 5 2 presentation of, 947 quenelles, 992 types of, 9 4 6 -9 4 7 Apples discoloration of, 130, 890 in fruit salad, 890 varieties of, 130-131 Apricots, 143
Arborio rice, 205, 764,1162 Arctic char, 110, 111 Arkansas stones, 48 Aromatic vegetables. See also Mirepoix in Asian cuisine, 243 bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 in braises and stews, 572, 575, 679 in broths, 304, 313 in chowder, 320 in consomme, 306, 307 in marinades, 363 oignon brule/pique, 240 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 in pan sauce, 433 in pilaf, 761, 762 in risotto, 764, 765 in soups, 317, 321, 322, 327 in steaming liquid, 652 sweating, 242, 276, 762 Arrowroot, 29, 30, 247, 248,1016 Artichokes, 174,175, 643, 648 Artificial sweeteners, 229 Arugula (rocket), 156,157 Asiago cheese, 194,195 Asian pears, 140,141
Asparagus, 174,175, 642 Aspic, 987, 995 As-purchased cost (APC), 17 As-purchased quantity (APQ), 18 Aurore maigre sauce, 278 Aurore sauce, 278 Avocados, 144,145, 644
b
Back waiter (dem i-chefde rang), 10 Bacteria, 3 2 -3 3 , 3 4 ,1 2 8 Bain-marie, 5 7 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3 Baked goods and baking. See also Cakes; Cookies; Pies and tarts cooling/unmolding, 1059 fats in, 30 glazing, 1118 leaveners in, 1017 liquefiers in, 1016-1017 mise en place, 1015-1022 mixing methods blending, 1052 creaming, 1053-1055 foaming, 1058-1061
guidelines, 1055 pate a choux, 1062-1065 rubbed dough, 1048-1051 pan preparation, 1021 pastry bags and tips, 1022 scaling ingredients, 1018 sifting dry ingredients, 1018 stabilizers in, 1016 storing, 1059 sugar caramelization, 1018-1019 wines and cordials in, 235 yeast bread, 1026-1032 Baked vegetables en casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 potatoes, 722-724 procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 3 pureeing, 664 Bakeries, career opportunities in, 8 Baking. See Baked goods and baking Baking pans, 1021 Baking powder, 234,1017 Baking soda, 234,1017 Bamboo steamer, 59 Bananas, 144,145 Banquet service pasta, 818 plated desserts, 1133 Barbecue sauce applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0 regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 Barbecuing, 430 Barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4 Barley, 210, 211, 752,1162 Barley flour, 210 Bartlett pears (William), 140,141 Basil, 180 Basket method of deep frying, 499, 674, 675, 676 Basmati rice, 204, 205, 752,1162 Bass, 107,108 Basting, 429, 432 Batonnet/julienne knife cut, 618, 622, 625 Batters blended, 1052 creamed, 1053-1055 for deep-fried foods, 497 foamed, 1058-1061 mixing guidelines, 1055 pasta, 8 0 8 - 8 0 9 pate a choux, 1062-1065 Bavaroise sauce, 287 Bay leaf, 180 Beans, dried. See also Legumes in broth, 314 in pureed soups, 321 salads, 895 soaking/cooking times, 1161 varieties of, 216-218,1161 Beans, fresh, 166,167 Bean thread noodles, 213, 214 Bearnaise sauce, 283, 287 Bechamel sauce, 274, 275, 279, 864 Beef. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 7 6 -7 7 cuts of, 7 2 -7 9 doneness of, 367 grades of, 72 kosher, 71 market forms of, 77 rib roast, carving, 437 stock, 256, 262 variety meats (offal), 77 Beefsteak tomatoes, 177 Beet greens, 158,159 Beets, 168,169,170 Belgian endive, 156,157, 621 Bell peppers. See Peppers, sweet Belly, pork, 88, 89 Bercy sauce, 278
Berries culinary uses of, 133 selecting, 132 varieties of, 132-133 Beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291 Beverages, 235 Bhutanese red rice, 204, 205 Bibb lettuce, 155 Bigarade sauce, 272 Biodynamic agriculture, 11 Biological contaminants, 32 Biotechnology, agricultural, 128 Bird chiles (Thai), 164,165 Biscotti, 1066 Biscuits, rubbed-dough method for, 1048-1051 Bisque, 3 2 5 -3 2 9 Black beans (turtle), 216, 217,1161 Black beauty grapes, 137 Blackberries, 132,133 Black corinth grapes (champagne), 136,137 Black-eyed peas, 218, 314,1161 Black grapes, 136,137 Black sea bass, 107,108 Blades, knife, 44 Blanching meat and poultry, 304 potatoes for deep frying, 732, 734 vegetables, 649 Blenders, 67, 68 Blending mixing method, 1052 Blind baking, 1124 Blood oranges, 134,135 Blood sausage, 77 Blueberries, 132,133 Blue cheese, 196-197 Bluefish, 113 Bohemienne sauce, 279 Boiling cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 eggs, 8 4 8 -8 4 9 pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 potatoes, 715-717 vegetables, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 Bok choy, 148,149 baby, 149 Bolsters, knife, 45 Boneless meats, fabricating, 379 Boniato, 173 Boning knife, 4 6 ,4 7 Bonnefoy sauce, 278 Bordelaise sauce, 272 Bose pears, 140,141 Boston butt, pork, 86, 87, 89 Boston lettuce, 154,155 Botulism, 32 Boulanger, 9 Bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 Bourguignonne sauce, 272 Boursin cheese, 186,18 7 Brains, veal, 83 Braising meat, poultry, and fish, 549, 572-576 vegetables, 677 -6 7 9 Bran oat, 208, 209 wheat, 201, 203 Brassica (cabbage) family, 147-149 Brazil nuts, 220 Bread. See also Quick breads; Yeast dough panadas, 986 for sandwiches, 933 stuffing, 364 Bread crumbs, 365 Bread flour, 202, 203 Breading for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676 ingredients for, 3 6 5,4 9 3
for pan-fried food, 495 standard procedure, 365 Breast of lamb, 92, 93 Breast of veal, 81, 82, 84 Bretonne sauce, 272, 278 Brie cheese, 188,1 8 9 Brigade system dining room, 10 kitchen, 9 -1 0 Brisket, 75, 77, 78 Broccoli, 148,149 Broccolini, 149 Broccoli rabe (rapini), 148,149 Broiler chicken, 97 Broiler duckling, 97 Broiling meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 vegetables, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 Broiling equipment, 6 5 ,4 2 4 Brook trout, 111 Broths. See also Soups; Stocks basic formula, 303 consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 331 hearty, 311-314 ingredients for, 302, 303, 304, 311, 312, 314 preparation of, 3 0 3 -3 0 5 Browning, Maillard reaction in, 2 8 -2 9 Brown rice, 204, 205 Brown sauce, 2 6 8 -2 7 3 Brown stock, 254, 256, 260, 262 Brown sugar, 228, 229 Brunoise knife cut, 622, 623 Brussels sprouts, 147,149 Bucatini, 213, 214 Buckwheat, 211 Buckwheat groats (kasha), 210, 211, 1162 Buffalo chopper, 68 Buffet service, 818 Bulgur, 201, 203, 752,1162 Bulk fermentation, 1029 Bundt pan, 60, 63 Busboy, 10 Business duties and skills, 4 - 7 Butcher ( boucher), 9 Butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 Butter. See also Clarified butter beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 forms of, 184 in Hollandaise sauce, 283, 284 in roux, 246 whole, 232 Buttercream, 1108-1110 Butterfat, 182, 251 Buttermilk, 184-185 Butternut squash, 152,153
C Cabbage, 147,149 Cabbage (brassica) family, 147-149 Cabbage turnip (kohlrabi), 149 Caciotta cheese, 190,191 Cafes, career opportunities in, 8 Cajun cuisine, 243, 246 Cake flour, 203, 246 Cake pan, 60, 62 Cakes blending method, 1052 buttercream for, 1108-1110 cooling/unmolding, 1059 creaming method, 1053-1055 foaming method, 1058-1061 freezing, 1059 glazing, 1118 layer fillings and icings for, 1110 icing, 1111-1113 layering procedure, 1111 pan preparation, 1021
Calamari (squid), 122,123 Calaspara rice, 205 Calcium, 26 Camembert cheese, 188,189 Cameo apple, 130,131 Canary beans, 217 Cannellini beans, 217 Canning salt, 226 Canola oil (rapeseed), 232 Cantal cheese, 193 Cantaloupe, 138,139 Capellini, 214 Cape shark (dogfish), 115 Capon, 97 Captain (c h ef d ’e tage), 10 Carambola (starfruit), 146 Caramelizing sugar, 28, 29 dry method, 1018 wet method, 1019 Caraway, 222, 223 Carbohydrates, 24, 28 Carborundum stones, 48 Cardamom, 222, 223 Cardinal sauce, 279 Career opportunities, 7-10 Career planning, 7 Carnaroli rice, 204 Carnival squash, 152 Carolina rice, 1162 Carrots, 168,170, 242 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244 Carryover cooking, 3 6 6 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 6 , 576 Carving techniques, 4 3 5 -4 3 9 Casaba melon, 139 Casareccia, 214 En casserole potatoes, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 Cashews, 219, 220 Cassava (yucca), 172,173 Cassava flour, 248 Cast-iron pans, 56, 57 Catering companies, career opportunities in, 8 Catfish, 116 Caul fat, 88 Cauliflower, 147,149 Cavaillon melon, 138 Cayenne, 223 Celery, 174,175 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244 Celery root, 169,170 Celery seed, 222, 223 Cepe mushrooms (porcini), 161 Cephalopods (shellfish), 122-123 Cereals and meals, simmering and boiling, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 Chafing dish, 62 Champagne grapes (black corinth), 136,137 Chanterelle mushrooms, 160,161 Charcuterie, 9 8 5 -9 9 2 Charcutiere sauce, 272 Chasseur sauce (Huntsman’s), 272, 291 Chateaubriand, 378 Chayote (mirliton), 150,151 Cheddar cheese, 192,193 Cheeks, veal, 82 Cheese production of, 185 varieties of, 186-197 Cheesecake, crumb crust for, 1051 Cheesecloth, 55, 254 Cheese curd, 186 Chef de cuisine, 9 Chefs. See also Culinary professionals; Staff in brigade system, 9 -1 0 business duties and skills, 4 - 7 executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9 uniform of, 38
SUB JECT IN D E X
1203
Chef’s knife (French knife), 47, 619, 621 Chef’s potatoes, 173 Chemical leaveners, 1017 Cherries, 143 Cherry sauce, 272 Cherry tomatoes, 177 Chervil, 178,180 Chestnuts, 220 peeling, 640 Chevre (goat cheese), 186,187 Chevreuil sauce, 272 Chicken. See also Poultry classes of, 96, 97 doneness of, 367 fabrication of, 393 Chickpeas (garbanzo beans), 216, 217,1161 Chiffonade/shredding knife cut, 618, 621 Chiffon cake, 1059,1061 Chiles cutting and seeding, 638 peeling, 639 toasting, 645 varieties of, 164-165 Chili powder, 225 Chinese cabbage Napa, 147,149 white (bok choy), 148,149 Chinese-five-spice, 225 Chinese long beans (yard long), 166, 167 Chipotle chiles, 164 Chives, 162,179,180, 621 Chivry sauce, 278 Chocolate in creamed batter, 1053 fondant, 1120 ganache, 1110,1114-1115 melting, 1117 production of, 234 storage of, 234 tempered, 1116,1117 truffles, 1116 Chocolate liquor, 234 Cholesterol, 24 Chopping vegetables and herbs, 618, 620 Chops Bone-in, cutting, 381 lamb, 90 pork, 85 veal, 81 Choron sauce, 283, 287 Chowder, 320 Chuck cuts beef, 75, 76, 78 lamb, 91, 92 veal, 84 Cilantro (fresh coriander), 179,180 Cinnamon, 222, 223 Cipollini onions, 162,163 Citrus fruits juicing, 890 selecting, 134 supremes, 891 varieties of, 134-135 zesting, 891 Clams, 117,118,120 doneness of, 367 opening, 419 Clarification ingredients, for consomme, 306, 307, 308 Clarified butter, 232 in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284 preparation of, 251-252 in roux, 246, 251 Cleaning and sanitizing copper pans, 56 for food safety, 37-38
1204
S U B J E C T IN D E X
grills/broilers, 4 2 6 ,4 2 7 knives, 44 pastry bags and tips, 1022 rolling pins, 53 uniforms, 38 Cleaning supplies, storage of, 35 Cleaver, 46, 47 Cloves, 222, 223 Coatings. See also Breading for deep-fried food, 497, 675, 676 ingredients for, 3 6 2 ,4 2 9 for pan-fried vegetables, 672 Cockles, 120 Cocoa butter, 234 Cocoa powder, 234 Coconut, 144,145 Coconut oil, 232 Cod, 105,106 Coffee, 235 Colander, 55, 254 Cold-foods chef (garde manger), 9 Collard greens, 148,149 Combi oven, 65 Commis, 10 Communard, 10 Communications, career opportunities in, 8 Communication skills, 7 Complex carbohydrates, 24 Composed salads, 895 Concasse, tomato, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 Conch (scungilli), 119 Concord grapes, 136,137 Condensed milk, sweetened, 183 Condiments, 234 Conduction cooking, 27 Confectioners’ sugar (powdered), 228, 229 Confiseur, 9 Consomme, 3 0 6 -3 1 0 , 330, 331 Consultants, 10 Contamination, food, 3 2 -33. See also Food safety Cross-contamination, 33, 34 Convection cooking, 27 Convection oven, 65 Convection steamer, 64 Converted rice, 204, 205,1162 Cooked foods, cooling and storing, 35 Cookies creaming method, 1053,1053-1055 drop, 1066,1068 glazing, 1118 piped, 1067 rolled and cut, 1066 stenciled, 1069 twice-baked, 1066 Cooking fats. See Fats and oils Cooking liquids for basting, 432 for boiling, 648, 649, 650, 715 for braising, 572, 575 cooling, 35 in pan sauce, 491 for pilaf, 760, 761 for poaching (deep), 544, 546 for poaching (shallow), 540, 542, 543 for poaching eggs, 852 for risotto, 764, 765, 766 for simmering grains, 753 for simmering legumes, 753 for steaming, 53 2 ,5 3 4 ,6 5 1 ,6 5 2 ,6 5 3 for steaming, pan, 654, 655, 656 for stewing, 579, 580 Cooking methods baking, 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , 722-724 barbecuing, 430 beef, 7 6 -7 7 boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 , 715-717, 7 56 -7 5 9
braising, 549, 572-5 7 6 , 6 7 7 -6 7 9 en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 custards, 1093-1095 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 , 6 7 4 -6 7 6 , 7 3 2 -7 3 4 dry-heat, 29 dumplings, 808 eggs, 8 4 8 -8 6 5 fish, 1 0 3 -1 0 4 ,1 0 6 ,1 0 8 -1 0 9 , 111-113,115-116 grains, 752-755 grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 , 6 5 8 -6 6 0 hot water bath, 1092,1093,1117 lamb, 92 legumes, 7 52-755 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 , 671-673, 8 5 4 -8 5 5 pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 pasta and noodles, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 poaching eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 pork, 8 7 -8 8 potatoes, 715-734 poultry, 97 roasting, 4 2 8 -4 3 4 , 6 6 1 -6 6 3 , 7 2 2 -7 2 4 and sauce pairing, 292 sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 , 6 6 5 -6 6 7 , 7 2 9-731 shellfish, 1 1 9 -1 2 1 ,1 2 3 ,1 2 5 -1 2 6 simmering, 544-5 4 7 , 752-755, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 smoking, 430 sous vide, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 steaming, 532-5 3 5 , 6 5 1 -6 5 3 , 717 stewing, 577-580, 6 7 7 -6 7 9 stir-frying, 4 8 8 -4 8 9 , 6 6 8 -6 7 0 veal, 8 2 -8 3 vegetables, 6 4 8 - 6 8 0 in world cuisines, 12 Cooking process heat transfer in, 2 7 -2 8 sugars and starches in, 2 8 -2 9 Cookware. See Pots and pans Cooling foods baked goods, 1059 for safe storage, 35 stock, 260 vegetables, 650 Copper pots and pans, 56, 58 Cordials, 235 Coriander dried, 222, 223 fresh (cilantro), 179,180 Corn, 166,167, 207 cutting from cob, 641 Cornish hens, 97 Cornmeal, 206, 207 Corn oil, 232 Cornstarch, 30, 206, 207, 247, 248, 268 ,1 0 1 6 Corn syrup, 228, 230 Cortland apples, 130,131 Cost As-purchased (APC), 17 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 control, 5 edible portion, 19 Cottage cheese, 186,187 Cottonseed oil, 233 Count measure, 14 Country clubs, career opportunities in, 8 Country-style forcemeat, 986, 991, 992 Court bouillon, 254 Couscous, 212, 215,75 2 ,1 1 6 2
Cox orange pippin apples, 130,131 Crab, 117,124,126 doneness of, 367 soft-shell, cleaning, 417 Crabapples, 131 Cracked wheat, 203,1162 Cranberries, 132,133 Cranberry beans, 167, 216, 217 Cranberry tomatoes, 177 Crayfish (crawfish), 125,418 Cream. See also Whipped cream forms of, 182,183 freshness of, 182 in ganache, 1114-1115 healthy substitutions, 25 in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 in pan sauce, 491 Cream cheese, 187 Creamer onions (pearl), 162,163 Creamer potatoes, 171 Creaming mixing method, 1053-1055 Cream of rice, 204 Cream soups, 317-319, 330 Creams, stirred, 1093,1095 Creme caramel, 1092 Creme fraiche, 184 Cremini mushrooms, 160,161 Crenshaw melon, 139 Creole cuisine, 246 Crepe pan, 57 Crevettes sauce, aux, 278 Critical control points (CCPs), 15, 36 Crookneck squash, 151 Cross-contamination, 33, 34, 35, 70, 365 Crosshatch marks, 426, 660 Croutons, 889 Crumb crusts, 1051 Crumb toppings, 1123 Crustaceans (shellfish), 124-125 Cucumbers, 150,151 Culinary professionals. See also Chefs associations of, 1191 career opportunities for, 7-10 career planning for, 7 education and training of, 4 and food industry trends, 11-12 information sources for, 1189-1190 management duties of. See Management personal attributes of, 4 professional network of, 4 Cumin, 222, 223 Curing salt, 226 Currants, 132,133 Currant tomatoes, 177 Curry leaves, 180 Curry powder, 225 Custards baked, 1092 as pie filling, 1123,1124 stirred, 1093-1095 Cut-in dough method, 1048-1051 Cutlets, 80, 380 Cutting fruits, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 apples, 890 citrus, 8 9 0 -8 9 1 hedgehog cut, 892 mangos, 892 melons, 893 pineapples, 893 Cutting vegetables and herbs artichokes, 643 asparagus, 642 avocados, 644 batonnet/julienne cut, 618, 622, 625 chestnuts, 640 chiffonade/shredding, 618, 621 chopping, 618, 620, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 corn, 641
fermiere/paysanne cut, 618, 624 for deep-fried potatoes, 733 diagonal/bias cut, 627 diamond/lozenge cut, 618, 624, 626 dicing, 623, 625, 631-632 fanning cut, 630 fluting, 629 garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 gaufrette/waffle cut, 628 guidelines, 6 4 5 -6 4 6 julienne/batonnet cut, 618, 622, 625 leeks, 635 lettuce, 888 lozenge/diamond cut, 618, 624, 626 mincing, 618, 621, 6 3 1-632, 634 mushrooms, 640 oblique/roll cut, 627 onions, 631-632 paysanne/fermiere cut, 618, 624 peapods, 641 peeling, 619, 631 peppers and chiles, 6 3 8 -6 3 9 rondelle/round cut, 618, 624, 626 standard cuts, 618, 6 2 2 -6 2 4 tomatoes, 636 tourne/turned cut, 624, 630 waffle/gaufrette cut, 628 Cuttlefish, 123
d
Daikon, 169,170 Dairy products. See also Cheese; Cream; Milk storage of, 3 4 ,182 types of, 182-185 Dandelion greens, 158,159 Danish blue cheese, 197 D’Anjou pears, 140,141 Decorateur, 9 Deep-fat fryer, 64,497, 674, 676, 732 Deep frying breading and coating in, 497, 675, 676 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 potatoes, 732-734 vegetables, 6 7 4 -6 7 6 Degreasing soups and broths, 309, 330 Delicata squash (sweet potato), 152, 153 Delicious apples, 131 Demerara sugar, 229 Demi-glace, 268 Denatured protein, 29 Design specialists, 10 Dessert menu, 1132,1133 Desserts. See also Cakes; Cookies; Pies and tarts custards, 1092-1095 frozen, 184,1133 ice cream, 184,1095 mousse, 1096-1098 plated, 1131-1133 truffles, 1116 Diagonal/bias knife cut, 627 Diamond/lozenge knife cut, 618, 624, 626 Diamond-impregnated stones, 48, 50 Diane sauce, 272 Dicing vegetables and herbs, 623, 625, 6 31-632 Dill, 178,180, 224 Dining room brigade system, 10 Diplomate sauce, 278 Direct fermentation, 1027 Disability insurance, 6 Display refrigeration, 65 Dogfish (cape shark), 115 Dolphinfish (mahi mahi), 110,113
Doneness deep-fried foods, 499 grains and legumes, 753, 755 grilled foods, 427 meat, poultry and fish, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 pan-fried foods, 496 pasta and noodles, 815 poached foods, 547 potatoes, 717 roasted foods, 432 sauteed foods, 490 vegetables, 649 Double boiler, 57 Dough. See also Yeast dough laminated, 1056-1057 pasta, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 pate, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 phyllo, 1057 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 Dover sole, 102,1 0 4 ,4 1 2 Drawn butter, 232 Dressings, 364 Drop cookies, 1066,10 6 8 Drug abuse, 39 Dry goods, 199-235 fats and oils, 232-23 3 grains, meals, and flours, 2 00-211 legumes, 216-218 miscellaneous, 234 -2 3 5 nuts and seeds, 219-221 pasta and noodles, 212-215 pepper, 227 purchasing system for, 200 salt, 2 2 6 -2 2 7 spices, 222 -2 2 5 sweeteners, 228-231 Dry milk, 183 Dry rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 , 430 Dry storage chocolate, 234 coffee and tea, 235 guidelines for, 200 nuts, 219 salt, 226 sanitary conditions in, 35 spices, 222 wines and cordials, 235 Duchesse potatoes, 721 Duck. See also Poultry carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 6 classes of, 95, 97 doneness of, 367 Dumplings quenelles, 992 types of, 808 Durum flour, 202, 203
G Eating styles, in cultural cuisines, 12 Eclairs, fondant glaze for, 1121 Ecossaise sauce, 279 Edamame (green soybeans), 166,167 Edible portion cost (EPC), 19 Edible portion quantity (EPQ), 18 Education and training for communications/media/ marketing/writing/food styling career, 8 of culinary professionals, 4 staff development, 6 for teaching career, 8 Eel, 116 Eggplant, 150,151 Eggs. See also Egg whites; Egg yolks allergies to, 37 in baking, 1016 in creamed batter, 1053,1054 in custard, 1092,109 4 in foamed batters, 1058-1061 and food safety, 35, 884
in forcemeats, 986 grades, sizes, forms, 198 hard- and soft-boiled, 8 4 8 -8 4 9 healthy substitutions, 25 in mousse, 1 0 9 6 -1 0 9 7 omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1 in pasta dough, 809 in pate a choux, 1 0 6 3-1064 poaching, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 Scotch egg, 279 scrambling, 8 5 6 -8 5 7 separating, 1020 souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5 as stabilizer, 1016 storage of, 3 4 ,1 8 2 structure and uses, 29 Egg substitutes, 198 Egg wash, 3 6 5 ,4 9 5 ,1 0 2 3 ,1 1 2 2 Egg whites, 29 in buttercream, 1109 in foamed batter, 1059 folding in, 949, 951 as forcemeat binder, 986 in meringue, 1020-1021 in mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 ,1 0 9 7 in souffle, 862 whipping, 8 6 4 ,1 0 2 0 -1 0 2 1 ,1 0 9 6 , 1097 Egg yolks as emulsifier, 29, 30 in hollandaise sauce, 283, 284, 285, 286 in liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 in mayonnaise, 884, 886 Elbows, 214 Emince, 380 Emmentaler cheese, 192,193 Emperor grapes, 137 Employees. See Staff Emulsifiers, 29, 30, 232, 8 80, 884 Emulsion forcemeats, 986 Emulsion sauces, 283, 284 Endive (Belgian), 156,157, 621 Endospores, 33 English peas (garden, green), 166,167 Enoki mushrooms, 161 Enriched yeast dough, 1026 Entrepreneurship, 9 Epazote, 222, 224 Epoisses cheese, 188 ,1 8 9 Equipment and tools, 4 3 -6 8 . See also Knives; Pots and pans for baking potatoes, 722 for boiling, 648, 715 cleaning and sanitizing, 37 for consommes, 306 for deep frying, 497, 674, 676, 732 for forcemeats, 987 for grilling, 6 5 ,4 2 4 ,4 2 6 , 658 grinding, 68, 392 hand tools, 5 2 -5 3 large, 6 4 - 6 8 maintenance of, 7 for mayonnaise, 884 measuring, 15, 54 molds, 59, 61 for mousse, 948 for pan frying, 493, 671 for pasta making, 809 pastry bags and tips, 1022 for peeling vegetables, 619 for poaching (deep)/simmering, 544 for poaching (shallow), 540 for pureeing, 55, 318, 324, 664, 718 rolling pins, 52, 53 safety precautions, 64 for salad making, 888 sieves and strainers, 55 for simmering grains and legumes, 753
for souffles, 862 for soups, 315, 318, 321, 325 for sous vide cooking, 550 for stocks, 254 for vinaigrette, 8 8 0 Escargot (snails), 119 Escarole, 156,157 Espagnole sauce, 268, 271 Essences (fumets), 254 fish, 255, 256, 259, 262 Evaporated milk, 183 Executive chef, 4 - 5 , 9 Executive dining rooms, 8 Expediter, 9 Explorateur cheese, 188,189 Extracts, 234
f
Facultative bacteria, 33 Fanning knife cut, 630 Farfalle, 212, 214 Farina, 201, 203 Farmer’s cheese, 186,187 Farro, 210 Fatback, pork, 88 Fat, dietary, 24 Fats and oils. See also Butter in baking blended batter, 1052 creamed batter, 1053-1055 foamed batter, 1060 laminated pastry dough, 1056-1057 rubbed-dough, 1 048-1049,1050 yeast dough, 1026 barding, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4 basting with, 432 for deep frying, 499, 732 flavored oils, 883 for frying eggs, 854, 855 function of, 30 in marinades, 363 milk fat content, 182,183 for pan frying, 493, 495, 671 parching rice in, 762, 766 for roasting vegetables, 662 in roux, 246 for sauteing, 665, 666, 670, 729, 730 smoke point of, 30, 232 types of, 2 3 2 -2 3 3 for vinaigrette, 880, 881 Fava beans, 166,167, 217,1161 Feet calves, 83 pig, 88, 89 Fennel, 174,175 Fennel seeds, 224 Fenugreek, 222, 224 Fermentation milk, 184 yeast dough, 1027,1029,1031 Fermiere/paysanne knife cut, 618, 624 Feta cheese, 186,187 Fettuccine, 213, 214 Fiddlehead ferns, 174,175 Figs, 145 Filberts (hazelnuts), 219, 220 File powder, 222, 224 Filleting fish, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 , 4 0 8 409, 412 Filleting knife, 47 Fillings buttercream, 1108-1110 ganache, 1114-1115 for layer cakes, 1110 for pies and tarts, 1122,1123,1124 sandwich, 9 3 2 -9 3 3 Financiere sauce, 272 Fingerling potatoes, 171,173 Fire safety, 38
SU B J E C T IN D E X
1205
Fish allergies to, 37 braising, 549, 572-576 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 doneness in, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 fabrication of, 4 0 2 -4 1 2 filleting, 4 0 2 ,4 0 4 - 4 0 6 ,4 0 8 409, 412 goujonettes, 411 for grilling, 427 gutting, 4 0 3 ,4 0 7 scaling/trimming, 4 0 2 ,4 0 3 tranche, 411 freshness of, 100 frozen, 101 fumet, 255, 257, 259, 262 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 market forms of, 100 mise en place for, 361-367 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 pan grilling, 427 en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2 simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 steaks, 100, 410 steaming, 532-535 stewing, 577-580 stock, 254, 255, 259, 262 storage of, 3 4 ,100-101 stuffings for, 428 types of, 101-116 Fish chef (poissonier), 9 Fish poacher, 57, 5 8 -5 9 Flageolets, 216, 217 Flattop range, 64 Flavorings. See Aromatic vegetables; Herbs; Seasonings; Spices Flax seeds, 221 Flounder, 102,1 0 3 ,1 0 4 Flour in baking blending method, 1052 creaming method, 1053-1055 rubbed-dough method, 1 0 4 8 1051 barley, 210 coating, 497 oat, 209 panada, 986 in pasta dough, 808 rice, 204, 205 in roux, 2 4 6 -2 4 7 as stabilizer, 1016 as thickener, 248,1016 wheat, 201, 202, 203,1026 for yeast dough, 1026 Fluke, 102,104 Fluoride, 26 Fluting mushrooms, 629 Foaming mixing method, 1058-1061 Foams, gelatin in, 1016 Foie gras, 71, 95 Fondant, 1119-1121 Fontina cheese, 190,191 Food allergies, 37 Food and beverage costs, 5 Food and beverage managers, 10 Food-borne illness, 3 2 -37,128 Food chopper, 68 Food critics, 10 Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 35, 36 Food industry agricultural systems in, 11 global culinary exchange in, 12 and sustainability, 11-12 Food mill, 55
SUB J E C T IN DEX
Food processor, 66, 68 for forcemeats, 987 for mousse, 948 for pasta dough, 811 Food safety in breading and coating, 365 cleaning and sanitizing for, 37-3 8 contaminants, 32 -3 3 of cooked/ready-to-serve foods, 35 in cooling foods, 35 and cross-contamination, 33,70,3 6 5 in dry storage, 35 and eggs, 35, 884 in forcemeat preparation, 987, 9 8 8 Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7 and irradiation, 128 and milk pasteurization, 182 in poultry fabrication, 393 in refrigeration and freezing, 3 4 -3 5 in reheating, 3 5 -3 6 , 331 sanitary inspection for, 34 in service, 37 in sous vide cooking, 549 and staff hygiene, 38 of stuffings, 364 Food science basics of, 27 -3 0 of sous vide cooking, 548 Foodservice companies, 8 Food slicer, 68 Food storage. See also Dry storage; Frozen foods; Refrigeration baked goods, 1059 and cross-contamination, 33, 35, 70 dairy products, 3 4 ,182 eggs, 3 4 ,182 fish, 34 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 food safety in, 3 4 -3 5 fruits and vegetables, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 herbs, 129 meat, 34, 70 mushrooms, 160 sanitary conditions in, 3 4 -3 6 shellfish, 34,117 Food styling, 8 ,1 0 Food writers, 10 Forcemeats egg binder in, 29 and food safety, 987, 988 ingredients for, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 mousseline, 986, 989 preparing, 9 8 7 -9 9 2 in quenelles, 992 stuffings, 364 types of, 986 Forelle pears, 140,141 Fork, kitchen, 52, 53 Fowl (stewing hen), 97 Foyot sauce, 287 Freezing. See Food storage; Frozen food Fregola sarda (Italian couscous), 215 French green beans (haricots verts), 166,167 French knife (chef’s knife), 46,47, 619, 621 Fresno chiles, 164,165 Frisee, 156,157 Frittatas, 858 Fromage blanc, 187 Front waiter (ch ef de rang), 10 Frozen desserts, 184 ice cream, 184,1095 plating, 1133 Frozen foods baked goods, 1059 fish, 101 meat, 70, 71 temperature for, 34 thawing, 36
Fruits. See also Citrus fruits; specific fruits browning of, 130,140 culinary uses of, 129 cutting. See Cutting fruits dried, rehydrating, 645 filling for pies and tarts, 1122 heirloom, 11 as ice cream flavoring, 1095 locally grown, 11,128 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 organic, 11,128 pectin in, 1016 production methods, 11,128 salad, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 selecting, 128 stone fruits, 142-143 storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9 varieties of, 130-146 yield calculation, 18 Fry chef (friturier), 9 Fryers (chicken), 97 Frying. See also Deep frying; Pan frying eggs, 8 5 4 -8 5 5 Frying fats, 232, 854 Fry pan (sautoir), 57, 59 Fumets (essences), 254 fish, 255, 257, 259, 262 Fungi, 32 Fusilli, 212, 214
g
Gala apples, 130,131 Galangal, 172,173 Game birds, barding, 434 Game meat barding, 434 cuts of, 94 stock, 262 storage of, 70 Ganache in layer cakes, 1110 making, 1114-1115 in truffles, 1116 Garam masala, 225 Garbanzo beans (chickpeas), 216, 217 Garde manger forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 9 2 pate en croute, 9 9 1 ,1 0 0 7 ,1 0 0 9 quenelles, 992 Garden peas (English, green), 166,167 Garlic, 162,163 aiioli, 887 chopping/mincing, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 measuring, 14 roasting, 634 studding roast with, 434 Garnishes for appetizers, 947 for broths, 302, 303, 311, 312 for chowder, 320 for consomme, 307, 310 croutons, 889 fanning cut, 630 for forcemeats, 986, 991, 992 matignon, 243 mushrooms, fluted, 629 for pan sauces, 492 quenelles, 992 for sandwiches, 933 for soups, 316, 319, 322, 323, 326, 331 for yeast breads, 1032 Gaufrette/waffle knife cut, 628 Gelatin in aspic, 987, 995 in foams, 1016 in mousse, 948, 950, 951,1096 strength, ratios for, 952 working with, 950
Gelation, 29,1016 Gelato, 184 Genetically modified organisms (GMOs), 11,128 Genevoise sauce, 272 Ghee, 232, 251 Ginger, 172,173, 224, 242 Gla^age, 283, 284 Glace, 261 Demi-glace, 268 Glacier, 9 Glarner Schabziger cheese (Sap Sago), 195 Glazes and glazing baked goods, 1118 cookies, 1066 fondant, 1119-1121 ganache, 1110,1114-1115 meat and poultry, roasted, 429 vegetables, pan-steamed, 654, 657 vegetables, sauteed, 665, 666, 670 Globalization of cuisines, 12 Globe onion, 162,163 Gluten development, in yeast dough, 1028,1029 Glutinous rice, 205 Goat cheese, 186,18 7 ,1 9 4 Golden delicious apples, 130,131 Goose, 95, 97, 393 doneness of, 367 Gooseberries, 132,133 Gorgonzola cheese, 196,197 Gouda cheese, 192,193 Goujonette, 411 Government regulations meat inspection, 70 of milk production, 182 workplace, 39 Grains in broth, 314 cereals and meals, 7 5 6 -7 5 9 cooking time for, 1162 forms of, 2 0 0 -2 1 1 milled, 200 parching, 762, 766 pilaf, 7 6 0 -7 6 3 polenta, 759 risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7 salads, 895 simmering, 752-755 soaking, 752 in stuffings, 364 whole, 200 Grana Padano cheese, 194,195 Granny Smith apples, 130,131 Granulated sugar, 228, 229 Grapefruit, 134,135 Grapes, 136-137 Grapeseed oil, 233 Gratin dish, 61, 62 Gratin forcemeat, 986, 991 Gratin potatoes (en casserole), 728 Gratin sauce, 272 Gravy, pan, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 Great Northern beans, 216, 217,1161 Green beans, 166,167 Green cabbage, 149 Green leaf lettuce, 154,155 Green lentils, 216 Green onions (scallions), 162,163, 621 Green peas (English, garden), 166,167 Greens bitter salad, 156-157 chiffonade cut for, 621 cleaning and drying, 888 cooking, 158-159 Green salads, 8 8 8 -8 8 9 Grenadins, 378 Griddles, 57, 65 Grill chef (grillardin), 9 Grilled sandwiches, 933
Grilling crosshatch marks, 426, 660 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 pan grilling, 427 vegetables, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 Grilling equipment, 65, 424, 426, 658 Grinder, meat, 68, 392 Grinding forcemeat, 987, 988, 989 meat, 392 Grits, 206, 207 Groats, 209,1162 Ground meat doneness of, 367 grinding, 68 Grouper, 107,109 Gruyere cheese, 192,193 Guajillo chiles, 164 Guava, 145
h
Habanero chiles, 164,165 Haddock, 105,106 Hake, white, 105,106 Half-and-half, 182,183 Halibut, 102,104 Ham carving, 4 3 7 -4 3 9 cuts of, 85, 87, 89 doneness of, 367 Handles, knife, 45 Hand tools, 5 2 -5 3 Hand washing, 32, 33, 34 Haricots verts (French green beans), 166,167 Havarti cheese, 190,191 Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP), 3 6 -3 7 Hazelnuts (filberts), 219, 220 Head waiter (ch efd e salle), 10 Healthy substitutions, 25 Heart beef, 77 lamb, 92 pork, 88 veal, 83 Heat transfer in cooking process, 2 7 -2 8 of pots and pans, 58, 60 Heavy cream, 182,183 Hedgehog cut, 892 Heirloom beans, 218 Heirloom fruits and vegetables, 11 Heirloom rice, 205 Heirloom tomatoes, 176,177 Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms (maitake), 160,161 Herbs bouquet garni, 240, 241, 254 in broths, 312, 314 chopping, 620 coatings, 362 in fruit salad, 890 mincing, 621 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 sachet d’epices, 240, 241 selecting, 129 storage of, 129 varieties of, 178-180 Hollandaise sauce, 2 8 3 -2 8 7 Home meal replacement food service, 8 Hominy, 206, 207,1162 Hominy grits, 1162 Homogenization, 182 Honey, 228, 230 Honeycrisp apples, 130,131 Honeydew melon, 138,139 Hors d’oeuvre, 946 Horseradish, 169, 224 Hotel pans, 62
Hotels, career opportunities in, 8 Hot water bath, 1092,1117 HRI (Hotel, Restaurant and Institution) cuts, 71 beef, 7 8 -7 9 lamb, 93 pork, 89 veal, 84 Hubbard squash, 152,153 Human resource management, 6 Huntsman’s sauce (chasseur), 272 Hydroponic crops, 128 Hygiene and cross contamination, 33, 34 and food-borne illness, 32 and kitchen safety, 38
i
Ice bath, 260 Iceberg lettuce, 154,155 Ice cream, 184,1095 Ice milk, 184 Icing buttercream, 1108-1110 cookies, 1066 ganache, 1114-1115 for layered cakes, 1110 procedure, 1112-1113 Idaho potatoes, 173 Immersion blender, 67, 68 Immigration and Naturalization Service (IN S), 6 Induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 - 6 5 Industrial agriculture, 11 Infection, in food-borne illness, 32 Information management, 5 Information sources, -1185-1191 Infrared radiation, 28 Ingredients. See also Dry goods; Seasonings baked goods, 1016-1017 breadings and coatings, 362, 365, 429, 493 for broths, 302, 303, 304, 311, 312, 314 for chowder, 320 for consomme, 306, 307, 308 dairy products, 182-185 in deep frying, 498 fish, 101-116 for forcemeats, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 fruits, 130-146 fruit salads, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 global sharing and exchange, 12 in grilling and broiling, 425 healthy substitutions, 25 herbs, 178-180 for marinades, 363 for mayonnaise, 884, 885, 887 measuring. See Measuring ingredients meat, 7 2 -9 4 for mousse, 9 4 8 ,1 0 9 6 nutrients in, 24, 25, 26 in pan frying, 494 in en papillote cooking, 537 for pasta dough, 8 0 8 -8 0 9 , 810 for pilafs, 760, 761, 763 in poaching (deep), 544, 545 in poaching (shallow), 540, 541 poultry, 9 5 -9 8 for risotto, 764, 765 in roasting, 429, 661, 662 for sandwiches, 932 -9 3 3 sauce pairing, 291, 292 in sauteing, 489 seasonings, 362 -3 6 3 shellfish, 118-126 for soups, 315, 316, 321, 322, 325, 326
in steaming, 533 in stewing, 578, 677, 678 for stocks, 254, 255, 2 5 6 -2 5 7 for stuffings, 364 thickeners, 234, 248 vegetables, 147-177 for vinaigrettes, 880, 881 for yeast bread, 1026-1027 Institutional catering, 8 Intestines beef, 77 lamb, 92 pork, 88 Intoxication, in food-borne illness, 32 Iodine, 26 Iodized salt, 226 Iron, 26 Irradiation, food, 128 Israeli couscous, 212, 215 Italian buttercream, 1108 Italian couscous (fregola sarda), 215 Italian meringue, 1021 Italian plums, 142,143 Italienne sauce, 272
j
Jack be little pumpkins, 152 Jaggery, 229, 231 Jalapeno chiles, 164,165 Japanese eggplant, 150,151 Japanese wheat noodles, 213 Jarlsberg cheese, 193 Jasmine rice, 204, 205, 752,1162 Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes), 172,173 Jicama, 172,173 Job’s tears, 211 Job training, 4 John Dory (St. Peter’s fish), 116 Jowl, pork, 88 Judgment, of culinary professionals, 4 Juicing citrus fruit, 890 Julienne/batonnet knife cut, 618, 622, 625 Juniper berries, 222, 224 Jus, 433 Jus lie, 268, 2 6 9 ,4 3 3
k
Kabocha squash, 152 Kale, 148,149 Kansas City barbecue, 431 Kasha, 210, 211,1162 Kentucky barbecue, 431 Kettles, 64, 254 Key limes, 135 Kidney beans, 216, 217,1161 Kidneys, 71 beef, 77 fabrication of, 390 lamb, 92 pork, 88 veal, 81, 83 Kirby cucumbers, 150,151 Kitchen brigade system in, 9 -1 0 research-and-development, 10 safety in, 38 Kitchen fork, 52 Kiwi, 144,145 Kneading pasta dough, 811 Knife cuts. See Cutting vegetables and herbs Knives cleaning and sanitizing, 44 palette knife, 52, 53 parts of, 4 4 -4 5 for peeling vegetables, 619 safe handling of, 44
sharpening and honing, 44, 4 8 -4 9 steeling, 5 0 -5 1 storing, 44 types of, 4 6 - 4 7 Kohlrabi (cabbage turnip), 149 Korean starch noodles, 213 Kosher meat, 71 Kosher salt, 226
1
Lamb. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 92 cuts of, 9 0 -9 3 doneness of, 367 grades of, 90 leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5 rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7 variety meats, 92 Lamb’s lettuce (mache), 156,157 Laminated dough, 1056-1057 Langoustines (prawns, scampi), 125 Lard, 232 Larding roasted meats, 4 2 9 ,4 3 4 Lasagne, 214 Layer cakes, 1110,1111-1113 Leaf lettuces, 154,155 Lean dough, 1026,1027 Leaveners, 234, 808,1016,1017 Lecithin, 29, 30, 884 Leeks, 162,163, 242 cleaning and cutting, 635 Leg cuts lamb, 90, 92, 93 veal, 82, 84 venison, 94 Legumes in broth, 314 salads, 895 simmering, 752-755 soaking, 752, 753 soaking/cooking times, 1161 varieties of, 2 16-218 Lemon curd, 1110 Lemongrass, 179,180 Lemons, 134,135 Lemon sole, 102,103 Lentils, 216, 217,1161 in broth, 314 in rice pilaf, 763 Lettuce, 154-155, 888 Liability insurance, 6 Liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 Light cream, 182,183 Lima beans, 167, 216, 217,1161 Limburger cheese, 189 Limes, 134,135 Linguine, 213, 214 Liqueurs, 235 Liquid measurement, 15,17 Liquids. See Cooking liquids Liquifiers, in baking, 1016-1017 Liver, 71 beef, 77 fabrication of, 390 lamb, 92 pork, 88 veal, 81, 83 Loaf pans, 61, 63 Lobster, 117,124,125 cooked, preparing, 4 14-415 doneness of, 367 live, preparing, 413 Lobster mushrooms, 160,161 Locally grown produce, 11,128 Loin cuts beef, 73, 76, 7 8 -7 9 lamb, 90, 92, 93 pork, 85, 87, 89 veal, 80, 82, 84 venison, 94
SUB JECT IN D E X
1207
Lotus root, 170 Lozenge/diamond knife cut, 618, 624, 626
m Macadamia nuts, 219 Mace, 224 Mache (lamb’s lettuce), 156,157 McIntosh apples, 130,131 Mackerel, 110,112 Macoun apples, 130,131 Magnesium, 26 Mahi mahi (dolphinfish), 110,113 Maillard reaction, 2 8 -2 9 ,5 4 9 Maitake mushrooms (hen-of-thewoods), 160,161 Maitre d’hotel, 10 Maize, 207 Malanga, 170 Maltaise sauce, 287 Management, 4 - 7 administrative duties, 5 of human resources, 6 of information, 5 of physical assets, 5 of time, 6 - 7 Manchego cheese, 192,193 Mandarin orange, 135 Mandoline, 66, 68, 727, 890 Mango, 144,145, 892 Manioc (yucca), 172,173 Manzana chiles, 164,165 Maple sugar, 228, 229 Maple syrup, 230 Marinades basting with, 432 dry, 362 for grilled meats, 425 for grilled vegetables, 658, 660 ingredients, 363 for roasted/baked vegetables, 661, 662 Marjoram, 179,180 Marketing, career opportunities in, 8 Marmite, 57 Marrow, 72, 390 Masa harina, 206, 207 Mascarpone cheese, 186,187 Matelote sauce, 273 Matignon, 243 Matsutake mushrooms, 160,161 Mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889 healthy substitutions, 25 Measuring ingredients conversions, 16-17,1163-1165 converting recipe yields, 16 equipment and tools, 15, 54 equivalents, 1166 scaling, 1018,1030 systems of, 14-15 Meat. See also Forcemeats; Variety meats (offal) braising, 549, 572-576 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 butcher’s yield test, 2 0 -2 2 cuts of, 71 beef, 7 2 -7 9 game, 94 lamb and mutton, 9 0 -9 3 pork, 8 5 - 8 9 veal, 8 0 - 8 4 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 fabrication. See Meat fabrication grades of, 70-71 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 inspection of, 70 kosher, 71 marinating, 363 market forms of, 71, 77, 82, 88
1208
S U B J E C T IN D E X
mise en place for, 361-367 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 pan grilling, 427 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 roasting. See Roasted meat and poultry sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 steaming, 532-535 stewing, 577-580 stock, 254, 255, 256, 261, 262 storage of, 34, 70 stuffings for, 428 usable trim, 20 Meat fabrication, 376 -3 9 2 boneless meats, 379 for braising, 574 chops, bone-in, cutting, 381 cutlets, cutting/pounding, 380 for deep frying, 497 emince, 380 for grilling and broiling, 4 2 4 ,4 2 7 grinding, 392, 987, 989 lamb, leg of, boning, 3 8 4 -3 8 5 lamb, rack of, frenching, 3 8 6 -3 8 7 medallions, 378 for pan frying, 493 pork loin, trimming/boning, 383 roast, tying, 3 8 8 -3 8 9 steaks, boneless, 382 for stewing, 577 tenderloin, trimming, 377 variety meats, 390 -3 9 1 Meat grinder, 68, 392, 987 Meat slicer, 68 Mechanical leaveners, 1017 Medallions, shaping, 378 Media, career opportunities in, 8 Melon bailer, 53 Melons cutting, 893 varieties of, 138-139 Memphis barbecue, 431 Menus dessert, 1132,1133 of food service companies, 8 functions of, 14 hazardous analysis of, 36 nutritional considerations in, 25 Meringue common, 1020 egg whites, whipping, 1020,1096, 1097 Italian, 1021 in mousse, 1096 as pie topping, 1123 Swiss, 1020-1021 Metal pans, 56, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 6 0 -6 1 Metric measurement, converting to U.S. system, 17 Meyer lemon, 134,135 Microorganisms, 32 Microwave oven, 28, 65 melting chocolate, 1117 reheating vegetables, 680 Milk allergies to, 37 in baking, 1016 in custard, 1092,1094 fermented/cultured products, 184-185 forms of, 182,183 freshness of, 182 pasteurized/homogenized, 182 in pureed potatoes, 719 in white sauce, 275 Milk fat (butterfat), 182 Milled grains, 200 Millet, 210, 211,1162
Mincing vegetables and herbs, 621 garlic, 6 3 3 -6 3 4 onions, 6 3 1 -6 3 2 Minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26 Mint, 179,180 Mirepoix in bisques, 327 in broths, 306 preparation of, 2 4 2 -2 4 5 in sauces, 268, 269, 270, 271 in stocks, 254, 255, 259 Mirliton (chayote), 150,151 Mise en place for baked goods, 1015-1022 for dessert station, 1133 for grilling, 426 for meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish, 3 6 1-367 for sandwiches, 933 for stocks, sauces, and soups, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 for vegetables and herbs, 6 1 8 -6 4 6 Mixer, standing, 67, 68 Mixing equipment, 6 6 -6 7 , 68 Mixing methods, baking. See Baked goods and baking, mixing methods Molasses, 228, 230 Molds for custard, 1092 for forcemeats, 991 for mousse, 948, 950 for stenciled cookies, 1069 types of, 60, 61, 62 Mollusks (shellfish), 117,118-121 Monkfish (anglerfish), 114,115 Monterey Jack cheese, 190,191,194, 195 Morbier cheese, 190,191 Morel mushrooms, 160,161 Mornay sauce, 279 Mousse dessert, 1096-1097 savory, cold, 9 4 8 -9 5 2 Mousseline forcemeat, 986, 989, 991, 992 Mousseline sauce, 283, 287 Mozzarella cheese, 187 MSG (monosodium glutamate), 226 Mud dab, 103 Mudfish (tilapia), 116 Muenster cheese, 190,191 Muffins, creaming method for, 1053-1055 Muffin tins, 60, 63 Mung beans, 217,1161 Mushrooms cleaning and cutting, 640 fluting, 629 in mirepoix, 242 sauce, 273 storage of, 160 varieties of, 160-161 Muskmelons, 139 Mussels, 117,118,120 cleaning, 419 doneness of, 367 Mustard, in mayonnaise, 884 Mustard greens, 158,159 Mustard seeds, 222, 224 Mutton, 90
n
Napa cabbage, 147,149 Navel oranges, 134,135 Navy beans, 217,1161 Nectarines, 142,143 Noisettes, 90 shaping, 378 Nonstick coatings, 56, 58
Noodles cooking procedures, 8 1 4 -8 1 7 doneness in, 815 dried varieties, 212-215 fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 Normande sauce, 278 North American Meat Processors Association (NAMP), 70 North Carolina barbecue, 431 Northern spy apple, 130,131 Nut allergies, 37 Nutmeg, 222, 224 Nutrition basics of, 2 4 -2 5 defined, 23 menu development for, 25 vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 , 26 Nuts and seeds, 219-221
O Oak leaf lettuce, 155 Oat bran, 208, 209 Oat groats, 209,1162 Oatmeal, 209 Oats, 2 0 8 -2 0 9 Oblique/roll knife cut, 627 Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), 39 Octopus, 122,123 cleaning, 422 Offal. See Variety meats Offset spatula, 52, 53 Oignon brule (burnt onion), 240 Oignon pique (pricked/studded onion), 240 Oils. See Fats and oils Oil sprays, 233 Olive oil, 233 Omelet pan, 57, 858, 860 Omelets, 8 5 8 -8 6 1 Onion family, 162-163 Onions as aromatic, 240 dicing/mincing, 6 3 1 -6 3 2 in mirepoix, 242, 243, 244 peeling, 631 soup, 312 varieties of, 162-163 Open-burner range, 64 Oranges, 134,135 Orecchiette, 212, 215 Oregano, 178,180 Organic agriculture, 11,128 Organ meats. See Variety meats (offal) Orzo, 212, 215 Ovens combi, 65 convection, 27, 65 conventional/deck, 65 microwave, 28, 65 pots and pans for, 6 0 -6 1 Oven temperature, roasting, 428 Oxtails, 75, 77 Oyster mushrooms, 160,161 Oyster plant (salsify), 169,170 Oysters, 117,118,121 doneness of, 367 opening, 418 Oyster sauce, 279
P
Pak choy (baby bok choy), 149 Palm sugar, 229, 231 Paloise sauce, 287 Panadas, bread, 986 Pan frying meat, poultry, and fish, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 vegetables, 671-673 Pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4
Pan grilling, 427 Pan preparation in baking, 1021 in bread making, 1027 for creamed batters, 1053 Pans. See Pots and pans Pan sauce, 2 6 8 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657 Pan-steaming vegetables, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Pantry chef, 9 Papaya, 144,146 En papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 Paprika, 225 Parasites, 32 Parboiling vegetables, 649 Parching grains, 762, 766 Parchment paper, 536, 542 Paring knife, 46, 47, 619 Parisienne sauce, 278 Parisienne scoop (melon bailer), 53 Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, 194,195 Parsley, 179,180 Parsnips, 170, 242 Partial coagulation, 1016 Passion fruit, 146 Pasta as appetizer, 947 in broth, 314 cooking procedures, 814 -8 1 7 cooking time for, 1164 cooling/reheating, 818 doneness of, 815 dried, 212-215 fresh, 8 0 8 -8 1 3 salads, 895 sauce pairing, 817 service styles for, 818 Pasteurization, 182 Pastries, glazing, 1118,1121 Pastry bags and tips, 1022 Pastry chef (patissier), 9 Pastry dough laminated, 1056-1057 phyllo, 1057 for pies and tarts, 1048-1051, 1122-1123 Pastry flour, 203 Pate dough, 9 8 6 -9 8 7 en croute, 991,1007,1009 en croute, mold for, 61, 62 forcemeats for. See Forcemeats Pate a choux, 1062-1065 Pathogens, food, 3 2 -3 4 ,1 2 8 Pattypan squash, 150,151 Paupiettes, 411 Paysanne/fermiere knife cut, 618, 624 Pea(s), dried, 216, 218,1161 Pea(s), fresh, 166,167, 641 Peaches, 142,143 Peanut allergy, 37 Peanut oil, 233 Peanuts, 219, 220 Pearl barley, 210, 211, 752,1162 Pearl onions (creamer), 162,163 Pearl rice, 205 Pears, 140-141 Pear tomatoes, 177 Pecans, 219, 220 Pecorino cheese, 185,192,193 Pecorino Romano cheese, 185,194, 195 Pectin, 1016 Peeler, 52, 53, 619 Peeling apples, 890 asparagus, 642 avocados, 644 chestnuts, 640 citrus fruits, 891 garlic, 633 mangos, 892
melons, 893 onions, 631 peppers and chiles, 639 pineapples, 893 potatoes, 715 tomatoes, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 tools for, 619 Penne, 212, 215 Pepitas (pumpkin seeds), 219, 221 Pepper and peppercorns, 226, 227 Peppers, chile. See Chiles Peppers, sweet (bell), 164,165 cutting and seeding, 638 in mirepoix, 242, 243 peeling, 639 Periwinkle, 119 Permit fish, 112 Persian limes, 134,135 Persian melons, 139 Persimmons, 146 Personal attributes, of culinary professionals, 4 Petrale, 102,103 pH, 33 Pheasant, 98 Phosphorus, 26 Photography, career opportunities in, 10 Phyllo dough, 1057 Physical assets, management of, 5 Pickling salt, 226 Picnic cut, pork, 86, 87, 89 Pie pans, 63 Pies and tarts baking, 1124 blind baking shell, 1124 crumb crusts for, 1051 crust, making, 1122-1123 custard fillings for, 1123,1124 fruit fillings for, 1122,1124 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 toppings for, 1122,1123 Pigeon, 98 Pigeon peas, 216, 218,1161 Pignoli (pine nuts), 219, 220 Pike, walleyed, 107,108 Pilaf, 760 -7 6 3 Piloncillo, 229, 231 Pin^age technique, 242, 245 Pineapple, 144,145, 893 Pine nuts (pignoli), 219, 220 Pink beans, 1161 Pinto beans, 218,1161 Piped cookies, 1067 Pistachios, 219, 220 Plaice (rough dab), 103 Plantain, 144,145 Plate, beef, 77, 78 Plated desserts, 1131-1133 Plating. See Presentation Plums, 142,143 Plum tomatoes, 177 Poaching deep, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 eggs, 8 5 0 -8 5 3 quenelles, 992 shallow, 5 4 0 -5 4 3 Poblano chiles, 164,165 Poivrade sauce, 273 Polenta, 759,1162 Pollock, 105,106 Pomegranate, 146 Pompano, 110,112 Pont L’Eveque cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9 Popcorn rice, 204 Poppy seeds, 219, 221 Porcini mushrooms (cepes), 161 Pork. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 8 7 -8 8 cuts of, 8 5 -8 9 doneness of, 367
grades of, 85 loin, trimming and boning, 377, 383 market forms of, 88 prepared products, 86 salt, in puree soups, 321, 322, 323 salt, rendering, 323 variety meats, 88 Portable refrigeration, 65 Portion size of appetizers, 9 4 6 -9 4 7 converting, 16-17 edible portion quantity, 18 optimum, 25 in standardized recipes, 15 Portobello mushrooms, 160,161 Port-Salut cheese, 191 Potassium, 26 Potatoes baking, 7 2 2 -7 2 4 boiling, 715-717 en casserole baking, 7 2 5 -7 2 8 deep frying, 7 3 2-734 Duchesse, 721 peeling, 715 pureeing, 718-721 roasting, 7 2 2 -7 2 4 salads, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 sauteing, 729-731 starch/moisture content of, 714 steaming, 717 stuffed baked, 722 varieties of, 171,173, 714 waffle/gaufrette cut, 628 Potato starch, 247, 248 Pots and pans baking pans, 1021 for boiling, 648, 715 for braising, 572 cast-iron, 56, 57 copper, 56, 58 for egg cooking, 850, 854, 856 for induction cooking, 28 materials for, 5 6 -5 7 , 59, 60 omelet, 57, 858, 860 for oven cooking, 6 0 -6 1 for pan frying, 493, 671 for pan grilling, 427 for poaching (deep)/simmering, 544 for poaching (shallow), 540 for roasting, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661 for sauteing, 4 88, 665 seasoning, 57 for soup, 315 for steaming, 532 for stewing, 677 for stock, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 254 for stovetop cooking, 57, 5 8 -5 9 Poultry braising, 549, 5 72-576 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2 classes of, 9 5 -9 8 deep frying, 4 9 7 -4 9 9 doneness of, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 fabrication of, 3 9 3 -3 9 9 halving/quartering, 3 9 8 -3 9 9 supremes, 3 9 4 -3 9 5 trussing, 3 9 6 -3 9 7 grades of, 95 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 kosher, 71 mise en place for, 3 6 1-367 pan frying, 4 9 3 -4 9 6 pan grilling, 427 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 roasting. See Roasted meat and poultry sauteing, 4 8 8 - 4 9 2
simmering, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 steaming, 5 32-535 stewing, 5 77-580 stock, 255, 262 storage of, 34, 70 stuffing for, 364, 428 Poussin, 97 Powdered milk, 183 Powdered sugar (confectioners’), 228, 229 Prawns (langoustine, scampi), 125 Presentation. See also Service of appetizers, 947 of frozen desserts, 1133 of hors d’oeuvres, 946 of mousse, cold savory, 948 of pasta, 818 of sandwiches, 933 of sauces, 292 of soups, 331 Pressure steamer, 64, 532 Primal cuts, 71 beef, 7 6 -7 7 lamb, 92 pork, 8 7 -8 8 veal, 8 2 -8 3 Private clubs, career opportunities in, 8 Professional network, 4 Progressive grinding, 988 Prosciutto, 85 Protein and bacterial growth, 33 denatured, 29 food sources of, 24 Provolone cheese, 192,193 Puddings, stirred, 1093-1095 Pullman loaf pan, 61, 63 Pumpkin, 152,153 Pumpkin seeds (pepitas), 219, 221 Purchasing system, 5 Pureeing cream soups, 318 equipment, 55, 66, 67, 68, 318, 324, 664, 718 mousse, 951 potatoes, 718-721 soups, 321-324 vegetables, 316, 664 Purple potatoes, 171,173
q
Quail, 98 Quatre epices, 225 Quenelles, 992 Queso fresco, 186,187 Quick breads cooling/unmolding, 1059 creamed batters, 1053-1055 foamed batters, 1058-1061 freezing, 1059 rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 Quince, 146 Quinoa, 210, 211
r
Rabbit, 94 disjointing, 4 0 0 -4 0 1 Rack of lamb, 91, 92, 93 of veal, 81, 82, 84 of venison, 94 Radiation, 2 7 -2 8 Radiatore, 215 Radicchio, 156,157 Radishes, 168,170 Rainbow trout, 110, 111 Ramekins, 61, 62 Ramps (wild leeks), 163
SU B J E C T IN D E X
1209
Ranges induction cooktop, 28, 6 4 -6 5 pots and pans for, 57, 5 8 -5 9 types of, 6 4 -6 5 Rapeseed oil (canola), 232 Rapini (broccoli rabe), 148,149 Raspberries, 132,133 Reach in refrigeration, 65 Reblochon cheese, 188,189 Recipe conversion factor (RCF), 16 Recipes calculations, 1 6 -2 0 effective use of, 20 evaluation/modification of, 14 hazard analysis of, 36 healthy substitutions, 25 standardized, 15 Red cabbage, 147,149 Red delicious apples, 131 Red emperor grapes, 136,137 Red flame grapes, 137 Red globe grapes, 137 Red globe onion, 162,163 Red kuri squash, 152 Red leaf lettuce, 154,155 Red lentils, 216 Red potatoes, 171,173 Red snapper, 108 Reduced-fat milk, 183 Reduction sauce, 268 Refrigeration of dairy products, 182 equipment, 65 of fish and shellfish, 100-101 food safety in, 3 4 -3 5 of forcemeats, 986 of fruits and vegetables, 129 of herbs, 129 of meat, poultry, and game, 70 of mousse, 952 of mushrooms, 160 of pasta dough, 809 of soups, 330 temperature for, 34 of yeast, 1017 Regence sauce, 273 Reheating eggs, poached, 850 food safety in, 3 5 -3 6 pasta, 818 soups, 331 vegetables, 680 Reliance grapes, 137 Remouillage, 261 Research-and-development, career opportunities in, 9 ,1 0 Resorts, career opportunities in, 8 Responsibility, sense of, 4 Restaurants. See also Menus brigade system, 9 -1 0 career opportunities in, 8 dessert station in, 1133 management of, 5 - 7 menus, 14, 25, 36 sustainable, 12 Resting period, for roasted meat and poultry, 29,4 3 2 Resting yeast dough, 1029 Retarding yeast dough, 1029 Rex sole, 103 Rhizomes, 171-173 Rhubarb, 144,145 Rib cuts beef, 74, 76, 78 pork, 85, 86, 88 Rib roast, carving, 437 Rice. See also Grains cooking times for, 1162 pilaf, 760, 763 risotto, 7 6 4 -7 6 7
1210
SUB J E C T INDEX
soaking, 752 varieties of, 2 0 4 -2 0 5 , 764 wild, 204, 205,1162 Rice beans, 218 Rice flour, 204, 205, 247, 248 Rice milk, 184 Rice noodles, 213, 214 Ricer, 55 Rice vermicelli, 213 Ricotta cheese, 186,187 Ricotta salata cheese, 192,193 Rigatoni, 215 Ring-top range, 64 Risotto, 764 -7 6 7 Rivets, knife, 45 Roast chef (rotisseur), 9 Roasted meat and poultry, 4 2 8 -4 3 9 barding/larding, 429, 434 basting, 4 2 9 ,4 3 2 carving, 4 3 5 -4 3 9 doneness, 432 oven temperature, 428 pan gravy with, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 resting, 29, 432 smoke-roasting, 428, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 vs sous vide cooking, 549 tying roasts, 3 8 8 -3 8 9 Roasted vegetables garlic, 634 peppers and chiles, 639 potatoes, 722-724 procedures, 6 6 1 -6 6 2 Roaster chickens, 97 Roasting pans, 61, 6 2 ,4 2 8 , 661 Robert sauce, 273 Rock Cornish hens, 97 Rocket (arugula), 156,157 Rock salt, 226 Rock sole, 103 Roll/oblique knife cut, 627 Rolled oats (old-fashioned), 208, 209 Rolling pins, 52, 53 Romaine lettuce, 154,155 Romano beans, 166,167 Roma tomatoes, 177 Rome beauty apples, 131 Rondeau, 57, 5 8 -5 9 , 677 Rondelle/round knife cut, 618, 624, 626 Root vegetables, 168-170 boiling, 649, 650 Roquefort cheese, 196,197 Rosemary, 178,180 Rotisserie cooking, 428 Rough dab (plaice), 103 Round/rondelle knife cut, 618, 624, 626 Round cuts beef, 72, 76, 78 lamb, 92 pork, 87 veal, 80 Roundsman (toumant), 9 Roux blond/white, 274, 275 brown, 268 clarified butter in, 246, 251 in pan gravy, 433 preparation of, 2 4 6 -2 4 7 singer method, 276, 320 Royal sauce, 287 Rubbed-dough method, 1048-1051 Rubs, spice, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0 Ruby red grapes, 137 Russet potatoes, 171,173 Rutabaga, 169,170 Rye, 211
S Sachet d’epices, 240, 241, 254, 259 Safety, 6. See also Food safety government regulations for, 39 kitchen, 38 in knife handling, 44 with large equipment, 64 and substance abuse, 39 Safflower oil, 233 Saffron, 225 Sage, 178,180 St. Peter’s fish (John Dory), 116 Salad as appetizer, 947 composed, 895 croutons in, 889 dressing procedure, 889 fruit, 8 9 0 -8 9 3 green, 8 8 8 - 8 8 9 legume, 895 pasta and grain, 895 potato, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 vegetable, 894 warm, 894 Salad dressing mayonnaise, 8 8 4 -8 8 7 , 889 oils and vinegars, flavored, 883 for potato salad, 8 9 4 -8 9 5 vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 - 8 8 2 , 8 8 9 Salad greens bitter, 156-157 lettuce, 154-155, 888 washing and drying, 888 Salad oil, 233 Salamander, 65 Sales, career opportunities in, 8 ,1 0 Salmon Atlantic, 110, 111 coho/silver, 111 Pacific (king), 110, 111 sockeye/red, 111 Salmonellosis, 32 Salsify (oyster plant), 169,170 Salt in bread making, 1027 types of, 2 2 6 -2 2 7 Salt substitutes, 226 Sandwiches, 9 3 2 -9 3 3 Sanitation certification, 39 Sanitizing. See Cleaning and sanitizing Santa Claus melon, 138 Sap Sago cheese, 195 Sardines, 116 Sauce a l’Anglaise, 279 Saucepan, 57, 58 Sauce pot, 57, 58 Sauces, 2 6 8 -2 9 2 barbecue, applying, 4 2 6 ,4 3 0 barbecue, regional, 4 3 0 -4 3 1 bechamel, 274, 275, 279, 864 beurre blanc, 2 8 8 -2 9 0 , 291 for braises, 572, 573, 576 brown, 2 6 8 -2 7 3 with deep-poached/simmered foods, 544 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 food pairing, 291, 292 hollandaise, 2 8 3 -2 8 7 jus lie, 268, 269, 433 mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 pan, 4 3 3 ,4 9 1 -4 9 2 , 657 pan gravy, 4 3 3 -4 3 4 pasta pairing, 817 plating of, 292 purposes of, 291 with souffles, 862 for stews, 580, 678 stir-fry, 488 thickeners for, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 268, 271 tomato, 2 8 0 -2 8 2
vanilla, 1095 vin blanc, 278 white, 2 7 4-279 Sausage, 86 Saute chef (saucier), 9 Sauteing glaze, for vegetables, 665, 666, 670 meat, poultry, and fish, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 potatoes, 729-731 reheating vegetables, 680 vegetables, 6 6 5 -6 6 7 Saute pan (sauteuse), 57, 58, 59, 488, 665 Sautoir (fry pan), 57, 59 Savory, 180 Savoy cabbage, 147,149 Scales, 15, 54 Scaling, 1018,1030 Scallions (green onions), 162,163, 621 Scallops, 117,118,121, 367 Scampi (langoustines, prawns), 125 Scimitar, 46 Scones, rubbed-dough method for, 1048-1051 Scoring yeast dough, 1032 Scotch egg, 279 Scrambled eggs, 8 5 6 -8 5 7 Scungilli (conch), 119 Sea bass, black, 107,108 Seafood. See Fish; Shellfish; Squid; Octopus Searing braised foods, 574 roasted foods, 428, 429, 432 stewed foods, 577 Sea salt, 226 Seasoned salt, 227 Seasoning pans, 57 Seasonings. See also Aromatic vegetables; Herbs; Spices for appetizers, 947 for broths, 304, 312, 314 for consomme, 306, 307 for deep-fried vegetables, 676 for grilled/broiled foods, 425 for sauteed foods, 490 for steamed vegetables, 652, 653 for stews, 577, 677 for stocks, sauces, and soups, 2 4 0 -2 5 4 , 255, 269, 275, 316, 317, 322, 330 types of, 3 6 2 -3 6 3 Sea urchins (uni), 118,119 Seckel pears, 140,141 Seeds toasting, 362 varieties of, 2 2 0 -2 2 1 Semolina flour, 202, 203 Serrano chiles, 164,165 Service. See also Presentation answering guest’s questions, 15, 37 brigade system, 10 commitment to, 4 food safety in, 37 and food/sauce pairing, 292 styles of, 818 Service information, 15 Sesame oil, 233 Sesame seeds, 219, 221 Seville orange, 135 Shad, 113 Shallots, 162,163, 242 Shanks beef, 72, 76 ham, 87 lamb, 91, 92 veal, 80, 82, 84 Shark, 115 Sharpening stones, 4 8 - 4 9 Sheet pan, 62
Shellfish allergies to, 37 bisque, 325, 3 2 6 -3 2 9 broth, 303, 304 chowder, 320 doneness in. See Doneness in meat, poultry, and fish fabrication of, 413 -4 1 9 and food-borne illness, 32 grilling/broiling, 4 2 4 -4 2 7 market forms of, 117 mise en place for, 361-367 en papillote cooking, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 poaching (deep), 5 4 4 -5 4 7 poaching (shallow), 5 4 0 -5 4 3 quality indicators for, 117 sauteing, 4 8 8 -4 9 2 steaming, 532-535 storage of, 3 4 ,1 0 0 -1 0 1 ,1 1 7 types of, 118-126 Shells, 215 Sherbet, 184 Shiitake mushrooms, 160,161, 640 Shortening, 232 Shoulder cuts beef, 75, 76, 78 lamb, 91, 92, 93 pork, 87, 89 veal, 82 venison, 94 Shredding/chiffonade knife cut, 618, 621 Shrimp, 124,125,126 cleaning/deveining, 416 doneness of, 367 Sieves, 55, 254 Sifting dry ingredients, 1018 Silicone mold, flexible, 61, 62 Silk snapper, 107,108 Simmering broths, 304, 313 cereals and meals, 756 -7 5 9 consomme, 309 grains and legumes, 752-755 meat, poultry, and fish, 5 4 4 -5 4 7 sauces, 270 soups, 317, 318, 323 stock, 258 Simple syrup, 1019 Singer method of soup making, 276, 320 Skate, 114,115 Skewers, 426 Skim milk, 183 Skimming stocks and soups, 258, 305, 317, 323 Slicer knife, 46, 47 Slicing equipment, 66, 68 Slurry, starch, 2 4 7-248, 268 Smoke point, 30, 232 Smoke roasting, 4 2 8 ,4 3 0 -4 3 1 Smokers, 65 Smothering aromatic vegetables, 242 Snails (escargot), 119 Snapper, 107,108 Snow peas, 166,167 Soaking grains and legumes, 752, 753 Soba noodles, 213, 214 Soda bread, rubbed-dough method for, 1048-1051 Sodium, 26 Software systems, 5 Sole, 102,103,412 Sommelier, 10 Sorghum, 211 Souffle dishes, 862, 865 Souffleed omelets, 858, 860, 861 Souffles, savory, 8 6 2 -8 6 5 Soups. See also Broths; Stocks bisque, 325-329
chowder, 320 cold, 331 cream, 317-319, 330 degreasing, 330 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 guidelines for, 330-331 mise en place for, 2 3 9 -2 5 2 puree, 321-324 reheating, 331 thickeners for, 315, 316, 320, 325 Sour cream, 183,184 healthy substitutions, 25 Sourdough starter, 1017 Sous chef, 9 Sous vide cooking, 5 4 8 -5 5 2 South Carolina barbecue, 431 Soy allergies, 37 Soybean oil, 233 Soybeans dried, 218,1161 green (edamame), 166,167 Soy milk, 184 Spaghetti, 213, 214 Spaghetti squash, 152,153 Spanish blue cheese, 196,197 Spanish onion, 162,163 Spanish rice, 204 Spareribs, 86, 88, 89 Spas, career opportunities in, 8 Spatulas, 52, 53 Spatzle, 808 Spelt, 211 Spices. See also Seasonings blends, 362 in broths, 312, 314 mixes, 225 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 rubs, 3 6 2 ,4 2 5 ,4 3 0 sachet d’epices, 240, 241, 254, 259 toasting, 362 varieties of, 222 -2 2 5 Spinach, 158,159 Spit roasting, 428 Split peas, 216, 218,1161 Sponge cake, 1021 Spreads, sandwich, 932 -9 3 3 Springform pan, 60, 62 Squab, 97 Squash Hard-shell, 152-153 Soft-shell, 150-151 Squash blossoms, 150,151 Squid, 122,123 cleaning, 4 2 0 -4 2 1 Stabilizers, in baking, 1016 Staff kitchen brigade, 9 -1 0 legal responsibilities to, 6 personal hygiene of, 33, 34, 38 service staff, 10,15, 37 substance abuse problems of, 39 training of, 6 Stainless steel pots and pans, 56, 60 Standardized recipes, 15 Star anise, 222, 225 Starches as emulsifier, 30 as thickener, 29, 247 -2 4 8 , 268, 1016 Star fruit (carambola), 146 Stayman winesap apples, 130,131 Steaks beef loin, 73, 76 beef rib, 74, 76 boneless, cutting, 382 chuck, 75, 76 fish, 100, 410 Steam, as leavening agent, 1017 Steamers, 57, 64 Steaming
meat, poultry and fish, 5 32-535 en papillote, 5 3 6 -5 3 9 potatoes, 717 vegetables, 6 5 1-653 vegetables, pan-steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 Steam-jacketed kettle, 64 Steam table pan, 62 Steel-cut oats (Irish, Scottish), 209 Steelhead trout, 111 Steels/steeling knives, 5 0 -5 1 Stenciled cookies, 1069 Stewing meat, poultry, and fish, 5 7 7 -5 8 0 thickeners in, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677 vegetables, 6 7 7 -6 7 9 Stewing hen (fowl), 97 Stew meat beef, 76, 79 lamb, 93 veal, 81, 82, 84 Sticky rice, 205 Stilton cheese, 196,197 Stir-frying, 4 8 8 ,4 8 9 , 6 6 9 -6 7 0 St. Louis barbecue, 431 Stockpot, 5 7 ,5 8 -5 9 , 254 Stocks. See also Broths; Soups in aspic, 987 basic formula, 255 for broths, 303 commercial bases, 261 for consomme, 306 cooking times for, 262 flavorings for, 2 4 0 -2 4 5 , 2 5 4 -2 5 5 , 259 glaces, 261 in pan sauce, 491 preparation of, 2 5 8 -2 6 0 remouillage, 261 for sauces, 270, 274 types of, 254, 2 5 6 -2 5 7 Stone fruits, 142-143 Storage. See Dry storage; Food storage; Freezing; Refrigeration Stoves. See Ovens; Ranges Straight mixing method, for yeast dough, 1027 Strainers, 55 Straining bisque, 329 broth, 305 consomme, 309 cream soup, 318 pan gravy, 434 puree soup, 324 sauces, 271, 277 stock, 260 Strawberries, 132,133 Striped bass, 107,108 Striped eddy squash, 152 Stuffings, 364, 367, 428 Sturgeon, 114,115 Sugar caramelizing, 28, 29 dry method, 1018 wet method, 1019 in creamed batter, 1054 in foamed batter, 1058 ,1 0 6 0 as liquefier, 1016 syrup, 230,1019 types of, 2 2 8 -2 2 9 , 231 Sugarcane, 229, 231 Sugar snap peas, 166,167 Sugar substitutes, 229 Sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes), 172,173 Sunflower oil, 233 Sunflower seeds, 219, 221 Supremes chicken, 3 9 4 -3 9 5 citrus, 891
Supreme sauce, 278, 291 Sushi rice, 205 Sustainable agriculture, 11,128 Sustainable restaurants, 12 Sweating vegetables, 666, 680 aromatic, 242, 276, 762 Sweetbreads, 71, 81, 83, 3 9 0 -3 9 1 Sweet dumpling squash, 152 Sweetened condensed milk, 183 Sweeteners. See also Sugar artificial, 229 glazing vegetables with, 654 types of, 2 2 8 -2 3 1 Sweet peppers. See Peppers, sweet Sweet potatoes, 172,173 Sweet potato squash (delicata), 152, 153 Swimming method of deep frying, 499 Swiss buttercream, 1108 Swiss chard, 158,159 Swiss meringue, 1020-1021 Swordfish, 114,115 Syrup, 230 simple, 1019 Szechwan peppercorns, 227
t
Table salt, 227 Tail, pig’s, 88 Taleggio cheese, 1 8 8 ,1 8 9 Tang, knife, 45 Tangelo, 134,135 Tangerine, 134,135 Tapioca, 247, 248 Tarragon, 180 Tart pan, 60, 62 Tarts. See Pies and tarts Tea, 235 Teaching, career opportunities in,
8,10 Teff, 211 Temperature conversions, 1164 of fats, in pan frying, 495, 673 of fats, in deep frying, 499, 676 food storage, 34, 70 in forcemeat preparation, 987, 989 resting, for meat and poultry, 3 6 6 -3 6 7 for sauce plating, 292 for soup reheating, 331 for soup service, 331 in sous vide cooking, 548, 549 for stuffing, holding, 364, 428 Tempered chocolate, 1116,1117 Tenderloin beef, 73, 79 lamb, 92 medallions, 378 pork, 89 trimming, 377 Terrines, forcemeats for. See Forcemeats Texas barbecue, 431 Thai chiles (bird), 164,165 Thawing frozen food, 36 Thermal circulator, in sous vide cooking, 550, 551 Thermometers, 5 4 ,4 3 2 ,4 9 7 , 550 Thickeners. See also Roux in baking, 1016 for braises, 572 healthier options, 316, 326 ingredients, 234 liaison, 2 4 9 -2 5 0 for sauces, 268, 269, 271 for soups, 315, 316, 320, 325 starch slurries, 29, 247-248, 268 for stews, 2 4 6 -2 5 0 , 578, 677
SUB JECT IN D E X
1211
Thompson seedless grapes, 136,137 Thyme, 178,180 Tilapia (mudfish), 116 Tilefish, 107,109 Tilting kettle, 64 Timbale mold, 62 Time management, 6 -7 Toasting dried chiles, 645 Tokay grapes, 137 Tomatillos, 176,177 Tomatoes in braises, 572, 575 in broth, 314 concasse, 6 3 6 -6 3 7 cutting, 637 heirloom, 176,177 in mirepoix, 242, 245 sauce, 2 8 0 -2 8 2 varieties of, 176-177 Tombo (albacore), 111 Tongue beef, 77 fabrication of, 390 lamb, 92 veal, 82 Tools. See Equipment and tools Tournedos, 378 Tourne knife, 46,47, 630 Tourne knife cut, 624, 630 Toxins, 32 Tranche, 411 Trichinella spiralis, 32 Trim, usable, 1 9 -2 0 Trim loss, 18 Tripe, 75, 77 Trout, 110, 111 Truffle, black and white, 161 Truffles, chocolate, 1116 Trussing poultry, 3 9 6 -3 9 7 Tube pan, 63 Tubers, 171-173 Tubetti, 212, 215 Tuna, 110,112 Turbinado sugar, 228, 229 Turbot, 102,104 Turkey, 97, 367 Turmeric, 222, 225 Turnip greens, 149 Turnips, 168,169,170 Turtle beans (black), 216, 217
U Udon noodles, 214 Ugli fruit (uniq), 134,135 Unemployment insurance, 6 Uniform, chefs, 38 Uniq (ugli fruit), 134,135 United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), 36, 70, 80, 8 5 ,1 2 8 ,1 9 8 , 366 Usable trim, 1 9 -2 0 U.S. measurement system, converting to metric, 17 Utility knife, 4 6 ,4 7
SUB JE C T INDEX
Vacuum bag, in sous vide cooking, 548, 550, 551 Valois sauce, 287 Vanilla sauce, 1095 Variety meats (offal) beef, 71, 77 fabrication of, 390 -3 9 1 lamb, 92 pork, 88 storage of, 70 veal, 81, 8 2 -8 3 Veal. See also Meat; Meat fabrication cooking methods, 8 2 -8 3 cuts of, 8 0 - 8 4 doneness of, 367 grades of, 80 kosher, 71 market forms of, 82 stock, 262, 268 variety meats, 81, 8 2 -8 3 Vegetable chef (entremetier), 9 Vegetable oil, 233 Vegetables. See also specific vegetables as appetizer, 947 aromatic. See Aromatic vegetables baking, 661 -6 6 3 boiling, 6 4 8 -6 5 0 broth, 302, 303, 304, 311, 314 chowders, 320 cutting. See Cutting vegetables and herbs deep frying, 6 7 4 -6 7 6 defined, 129 doneness, 649, 680 dried, rehydrating, 645 dried, toasting, 645 edible portion, 19 grilling/broiling, 6 5 8 -6 6 0 guidelines, 680 heirloom, 11 locally grown, 11,128 mise en place for, 6 1 8 -6 4 6 oils and vinegars, infused, 883 organic, 11,128 pan frying, 671-673 pan steaming, 6 5 4 -6 5 7 en papillote cooking, 536 -5 3 9 peeling, 619 in polenta, 759 production methods, 11,128 pureeing, 664 reheating, 680 roasting. See Roasted vegetables salads, 894 sauteing, 6 6 5 -6 6 7 selecting, 128 shocking to cool, 650 soup, clear, 312 soup, puree, 321 steaming, 651-653 stewing/braising, 677-679 stir-frying, 6 6 8 -6 7 0 stock, 254, 255, 256, 260, 262 storage of, 3 4 ,1 2 8 -1 2 9
sweating, 242, 276, 666, 670 trimming, 623 usable trim, 19 varieties of, 147-177 yield, calculating, 18 Vegetarian diet, protein in, 24 Veloute in bisque, 326, 328 in cream soup, 316 sauce, 274, 278 Venison, cuts of, 94 Venus grapes, 137 Vermicelli, 214 Vermilion snapper, 107,108 Vertical chopping machine (VCM), 68 Villeroy sauce, 278 Vinaigrette, 30, 8 8 0 -8 8 2 , 889 Vin blanc sauce, 278 Vinegar, 234 flavored, 883 in mayonnaise, 884 in vinaigrette, 881, 882 Viruses, 32 Vitamin A, 26 Vitamin B-complex, 26 Vitamin C, 26 Vitamin D, 26 Vitamin E, 26 Vitamin K, 26 Vitamins and minerals, 2 4 -2 5 functions and food sources, 26 Volume measure, 15,17 conversions, 17,1163
W Waffie/gaufrette knife cut, 628 Walk-in refrigeration, 65 Walleyed pike, 107,108 Walnut oil, 233 Walnuts, 219, 221 Water bath, 57, 5 5 0 ,1 0 9 2 ,1 0 9 3 ,1 0 9 6 , 1117 Watercress, 156,157 Watermelon, 138,139 Weakfish, 108 Weight measure, 15,17 conversions, 17,1163 equivalents, 1166 Wheat, 201, 203 Wheat allergies, 37 Wheat berries, 201, 203,1162 Wheat bran, 201, 203 Wheat flour, 202, 203 ,1 0 2 6 Wheat germ, 201, 203 Whelk, 119 Whipped cream heavy cream for, 182,183 in mousse, 948, 949, 951 stages of, 1019 Whisks, 52, 53 White sauce, 2 7 4 -2 7 9 White stock, 254, 256, 260, 262 Whole grains, 200 Whole wheat flour, 202, 203
Wild rice, 204, 205,1162 William pears (Bartlett), 140,141 Wine in pan sauce, 491 selecting, 235 Wine steward (ch efd e vin), 10 Wok, 59, 669 Wolffish, 105,106 Wood in grilling process, 424 in smoking process, 434 Workplace drug and alcohol abuse in, 39 government regulations in, 39 orderly, 7 safety, 6, 38 World cuisines, and culinary exchange, 12
y
Yams, 173 Yard-long beans (Chinese long beans), 166,167 Yeast, 234 types of, 1017 viability of, 1026-1027 Yeast dough baking loaves, 1031 enriched and lean, 1026 fermentation, 1027,1029,1031 finishing methods, 1032 ingredients for, 1026-1027 mixing methods, 1027-1028 resting, 1029 shaping, 1030 Yellow potatoes, 171,173 Yellow squash, 150,151 Yellowtail snapper, 107,108 Yield as-purchased quantity, 18 butchers yield test, 2 0 -2 2 edible portion quantity, 19 of fruit and vegetables, 18 recipe conversion factor, 16 Yield percent, 18,19 Yogurt, 183,184 frozen, 184 Yucca (manioc), 172,173 Yukon gold potatoes, 171,173
Z Zest, citrus, 891 Zingara sauce, 273 Zucchini, 150,151
