essional chef N IN TH EDITION
The Culinary Institute of America ure X L'U N A R Y \ CIN STITUTE
^AMERICAJ
T H E W O R L D 'S P R E M IE R C U LIN A R Y C O LLEG E
This book is printed on acid-free paper. @ Copyright © 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
THE C ULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA President Vice-President, Dean of Culinary Education
Dr. Tim Ryan 1 1 Mark Erickson '77
Senior Director, Educational Enterprises
Susan Cussen
Director of Publishing
Nathalie Fischer
Editorial Project Managers
Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00
Editorial Assistants
Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell ’08
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Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Master Recipe List
v iii
Acknowledgments
xvi
Introduction
.
xv iii
PART ONE
essional IN TRODUCTION TO THE/PROFESSION M ENUS AND RECIPES
3
IB
THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY
23
31
PART TW O
tools and ingredients in the professional kitchen chap ter 5
E Q U IPM EN T IDENTIFICATIO N
Chapter 6
MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME ID ENTIFIC ATION
chapter 7
FISH AND SHE LLFISH ID EN TIFICATIO N
chapter 8
FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB ID EN TIFICATION
Chapter 9
D AIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND ID ENTIFIC ATIO N
chapter 10
DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION
43
199
69
99
181
127
PARTTHREE
stocks, sauces, and soups c h a p te r !!
MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS
chapter 12
STOCKS
253
chapter 13
SAUCES
267
chap ter 14
SOUPS
239
301
PART FO U R
meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish chapter 15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SH ELLFISH chapter 16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH chapter 17 GRILLING, BROILING, AND ROASTING
375
423
Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING chapter 19 STEAM ING AND SU BM ER SIO N COOKING chaptei-2 0
BRAISING AND STEWING
361
487
531
571
P A R T F IV E
vegetables, potatoes, grains and legumes, and pasta and dumplings chapter 21
MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS
chapter 22
COOKING VEGETABLES
chapter 23
COOKING POTATOES
chapter 24
COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES
chapter 25
COOKING PASTA AND D U M P LIN G S
647
713 751 807
617
» •■*' ■- t : ,:k .
.
P A R T S IX
..
•;
COOKING EGGS
Chapter 27
SALAD DRESSINGS AND S A LA D S
chapter 28
SAN DW ICH ES
chapter 29
HORS D'OEUVRE AND A PPETIZER S
chapter 30
C HARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER
,
847
# 7 t
■ ^■
fV V - I P Si g p
breakfast and garde manger chapter 26
.4
A •
S 1
. * -
V -I
•
V
* 4
h
*
879
■
> /■ -
'
931
'■* r .
*
^ '
945
t ' ^
i”'* ’ f
985
- Txr,
•
JL
v
% ■
,
PART S EVEN
baking and pastry chapter 31 BAKING MISE EN PLACE chapter 32 YEAST BREADS
1015 %
1025
Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS
,
1047 r
Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS, AND MOUSSES
1091
nr.:. d chapter 35
FILLIN G S, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES
1107 ;Q
chapter 36
PLATED DESSERTS
1161
Glossary
1167
J fl
Readings and R esources Recipe Index S u b je c tln d e x
1185
1191 1202
4
>>
1131 ,
A pp en d ix
%"
*
.
H
T_
s
v
-
S
fS
p -
• ,<• >.
master recipe list chapter 12 stocks Chicken Stock
Hollandaise Sauce
263
MALTAISE SAUCE
WHITE VEAL STOCK
263
WHITE BEEF STOCK
Beurre Blanc
263
Brown Veal Stock
263
BROWN GAME STOCK (JU S DE G IB IE R ) 2 6 4 ESTOUFFADE
298
MOUSSELINE SAUCE
298
299
Puree of Lentil Soup
Pesto
Puree of Split Pea Soup 3 4 5
299
264
PIMIENTO BUTTER
BROWN PORK STOCK
264
GREEN ONION BUTTER
BROWN DUCK STOCK
DILL BUTTER
264
SHELLFISH STOCK
264
Vegetable Stock 2 6 5 Court Bouillon
Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup 3 4 5
30 0 300
Senate Bean Soup
300
Vichyssoise
BASIL BUTTER
Shrimp Bisque
30 0
Beef Consomme
CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE.
Royale Custard
Ichi Ban Dashi
Chicken Broth 3 3 4
333
333
chapter 13 sauces 293 293
JUS DE CANARD LIE
LAM B BROTH
293
JUS D'AGNEAU LIE:
FISH BROTH
293
Onion Soup
Espagnole Sauce 2 9 4 Chicken Veloute FISH VELOUTE
294
SHRIMP VELOUTE
Bechamel Sauce
CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE MORNAYSAUCE CREAM SAUCE
CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE CELER I) 3 3 9
296 297
M IN T SAUCE (P A L O I5 E S A U C E ) CHORONSAUCE
v iii
339
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME A R G E N T E U IL ) 3 3 9
295
Bolognese M ea t Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) 2 9 6
Bearnaise Sauce
33 6
297
M A S T E R REC IPE LIST
Vegetable Soup, Emilia Romagna Style (Minestrone alia Emiliana) 3 5 7 Minestrone
357
Cream of Broccoli Soup 33 9
295
295
Tomato Sauce 2 9 5
Tomato Coulis
33 5
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP W ITH RICE 3 3 9
295
354
Tuscan W hite Bean and Escarole Soup 3 5 5
335
Cream of Tomato Soup 294
Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut M ilk and Galangal 3 5 3
W ontonSoup 335
Chicken Rice Soup (Canja)
294
VEG ETABLEVELOUTE
353
Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung) 3 5 4
33 5
ONION SOUP GRATINEE
Tortilla Soup
294
334
334
WHITE ONION SOUP
294
SUPREME SAUCE
Spicy Beef Soup ( Yukkaejang) 351 Miso Soup
334
SHELLFISH BROTH
Demi-Glace 2 9 3
334
334
TURKEY OR GAME BROTH
293
JUS DE GIBIER LIE
334
HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH
JUS DE VO LAILLE LIE
348
Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho) 34 9
Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang) 3 5 0
334
VEAL BROTH
Ju sd e V eau L ie
347
Ham Bone and Collard Greens Soup 3 5 0
AM ISH CORN AND CHICKEN SOUP 3 3 4 BEEF BROTH:
34 7
Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo
333
Poultry and M ea t Stock (Brodo) 2 6 6 266
34 6 346
Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard) 3 4 8
265
265
Potage Garbure
SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANO BUTTER 300
chapter 14 soups
ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK
344
PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEA SOUP 345
300
BROWN LAM B STOCK
Fish Fum et 2 6 4
34 2
M an h attan -S tyle Clam Chowder 3 4 4
Red Pepper Coulis 2 9 9
TARRAGON BUTTER
264
341
Pacific Seafood Chowder
MaTtre d’Hotel B u tter 3 0 0
264
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK
Corn Chowder
298
297
chapter 15 mise en place for meats, poultry, fish, and shellfish Garam Masala
368
Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup 3 4 0
Chinese Five-Spice Powder 3 6 8
New England-Style Clam Chowder 3 4 0
Chili Powder
Conch Chowder
341
Barbecue Spice M ix 368
Curry Powder
369
Q uatre Epices
36 9
368
Fines Herbes
370
Green Curry Paste
37 0
Yellow Curry Paste
371
Barbecue M arinade Fish M arinade
372
Brazilian Mixed Grill
372
SALT HERBS
457
Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ffin g 4 8 2
Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce 4 5 8
373
Latin Citrus M arinade (Mojo) 3 7 3
BLACK BEAN SAUCE
Jerked Game Hens
Red W ine M arinade fo r Grilled M eats 3 7 4
MU SH R OOM FORCEMEAT
440
Veal Shoulder Poele
442
465
467
469
MARS ALA SAUCE
MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE (NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW COU NTRY SAUCE) 469
447
Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 4 4 8
Pork Butt with Coleslaw 448
CARAMELIZED APPLES
Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry V inegar Sauce 4 5 0 SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE
450
BARBECUE SAUCE
FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY
475
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille 454
PERSILLADE
WARM CABBAGE SALAD
SAUCE ROBERT
50 5
506
508
SAUCE CHARCUTIERE
508
Red Snapper with G rapefruit Salsa 5 0 9
Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere 47 6
453
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties
W INTER FR U IT SA UCE
Pork C utlet with Sauce Robert 5 0 8
475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu) 4 7 6
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney 4 5 3
Sauteed Medallions of Pork with W in ter Fruit Sauce 50 5
NOISETTES OF PORK WITH RED ONION CONFIT 50 6
CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST -STYLE SAUCE 472-3
St. Louis-Style Ribs
Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions 451
504
Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad 50 6
470
Smoked Brisket with Sw eet Pickles 4 7 2
448
PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATO SAUCE 5 0 3
N oisettes of Pork w ith Green Peppercorns and Pineapple 5 0 4
NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN BARBECUE SAUCE 4 6 9
BROILED LA M B KEBABS WITH PIMIENTO BUTTER 4 4 7
501
Veal Scaloppine Marsala 5 0 3
467
NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT SAUCE 4 6 9
Pork and Veal Skewers (R a znjic i) 4 4 7
501
Emince of Sw iss-Style Veal 5 0 3
GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE
Carolina Barbecue
446
Chicken Provengal
500
BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL
Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs 446
Sauteed Chicken with Fines HerbesSauce 5 0 0 FINES HERBES SAUCE
Cantonese Roast Pork ( C h a r S iu ) 4 6 6
Barbecued Steak w ith Herb Crust 4 4 5
APPLE CIDER SAUCE
464
464
Pork Roast with Jus Lie
Beef Teriyaki 4 4 5
DILL SAUCE
486
chapter 18 sauteing, pan frying, and deep frying
463
Baked S tu ffed Pork Chops 4 6 5
Grilled Rib Eye Steak
C H ES TNU TSTU FF IN G
Salmon F illet with Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust 4 8 6
462
MADEIRA SAUCE 4 6 3
Standing Rib Roast au Jus
44 1
Skewered Beef and Scallions
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut S tu ffin g 4 8 5
B eef W ellington 4 6 3
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce 441 Seitan Satay
462
M AR SALA SAUCE
MARCHAND D E V IN SAUCE
461
M IN T AND YOGURT CHU TNEY
GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAK WITH MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER 4 4 0 MUSH R OOM SAUCE
459
Broiled Bluefish a I'Anglaise with MaTtre d'Hotel B u tter 461 Fish Kebabs
484
Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade 4 8 4 -5
459
Broiled S tu ffed Lobster
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce 4 4 0
483
Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcem eat 4 8 3
459
P INEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA
chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and roasting
Pan-Smoked Chicken
458
F illet of Mahi Mahi with Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa
374
481
Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy 48 2
HOT PEPPER S A U C E (M O LH O API MENTADO) 457
372
Teriyaki M arinade
Roast Leg of Lamb with M int Sauce 481
Grilled Paillards of Chicken with Tarragon B u tter 4 5 5
Red W ine Game M arinade 3 7 2 Lamb M arinade
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (G ig o t a la Breto nne ) 480
Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Fennel 4 5 5
Seasoning M ix fo r Spit-R oasted M eats and Poultry 371 Asian-Style M arinade
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous (M e ch o u i) 478
Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano B u tter 4 5 4
369
Red Curry Paste
477
Trout Amandine
50 9
A ll
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Pepper Sauce 511 YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE
Vatapa
512
Shrimp Ticin-Xic Bibimbap
513
513
514
B utterm ilk Fried Chicken
516
516
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets
518
518
PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK CUTLET 5 1 8
Veal Cordon Bleu
518
55 5
520
REM OU LA D ESA U C E
520
561
GREMOLATA
5 6 2 -3
Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken 5 2 4 SWEET GARLIC SAUCE
524
563
Fried Fish Cakes
528
Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits 5 6 4
Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno 5 2 8 -9 Tinga Poblano
530
566
Bass and Scallops en Papillote 5 5 3
606
Lamb Khorma
607
Irish Stew 569
chapter 20 braising and stewing
608
Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew 6 0 9 Chicken Tagine
611
PRESERVED LEMONS
Chicken Fricassee
Korean Braised Short Ribs (KalbiJjim) 5 8 2
61 2
Chicken and Prawn Ragout (M a r i Muntanya) 6 1 2 -3
584
ROULADEN STUFFING
chapter 22 cooking vegetables Boiled Carrots
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce 5 8 4 -5 585
Yankee Pot Roast 5 8 6
Mole Negro
611
61 2
581
DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581
587 5 8 8 -9
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers 5 5 3
Beef Stew
Poached Trout with Saffron Mousse 5 5 5
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in M ea t Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni) 5 9 0
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Lamb Navarin
VEAL FRICASSEE
Sauerbraten
602 60 4
Curried Goat w ith Green Papaya Salad 6 0 8
Seafood Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel 5 7 0
Braised Short Ribs
chapter 19 steam ing and subm ersion cooking
Braised Lamb Shanks
HERBED FORCEMEAT STUFFING 6 0 5
Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch) 5 7 0
Braised Oxtails
601
601
Portuguese S tu ffed Leg of Lamb 6 0 5
Grandmother's Bean Curd (M o Po Dofu) 5 2 7 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long) 527
599
Polish S tu ffed Cabbage
GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS
Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo)
TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 5 2 3
598
599
BEEF GOULASH
Corned Beef w ith W inter Vegetables 5 6 6
Shrimp Tempura 5 2 3
597
Osso Buco Milanese
562
Udon Noodle Pot
522
59 6
Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage 5 9 8 Pork Goulash
Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes 561
Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon 5 2 2 522
Veal Blanquette
MUSHROO M SAUSAGE
New England Shore Dinner
Poule a u Pot (Chicken with Vegetables) 5 6 5
Beer B a tter
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce
F illet of Snapper en Papillote 5 5 8 -9
Cioppino
596
Szekely Goulash (Szekely Gulyas) 597
557
Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes 521
Flounder a I’Orly
Pork Vindaloo
Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce 5 6 4
519
Fisherman’s P la tte r
ROYALGLACAGE
59 5
New Mexican Green Chile Stew 59 5
Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 8
Pescado Veracruzana
Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese) 519 Milanese Sauce
SALMON MOUSSELINE
593
594
D u ckC o nfit
555
Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique 5 5 7
Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 5 1 5
WIENER SCHNITZEL
Cassoulet
Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce 5 5 6
S tir-F ried Squid with Thai Basil 5 1 5
COUNTRY GRAVY
SOLE MOUSSELINE
593
HOM EMA DE SAUERKRAUT
TROUT AND SAFFRON MOUSSEL INE 5 5 5
51 1
Sauteed Trout a la M euniere
Choucroute
POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON MOUSSE 555
58 9
681
Boiled Edamame 681 Steam ed Broccoli
681
BROCCOLI AND TOASTED GARLIC 681
Glazed Beets Creamed Corn
683 683
Pan-Steam ed Carrots 6 8 4 PAN-STEAMED HARICOTS VERTS 6 8 4 PECAN CARROTS
684
Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash 6 8 4
Braised Sauerkraut French-Style Peas
Green Beans with Walnuts Glazed Carrots
712
Frijoles Puercos Estilo Sinaloa 7 7 3
712
Middle Eastern Chickpeas
685
Rom an-Style Lima Beans
685
chapter 23 cooking potatoes
Grilled Vegetables Proven<;al-Style 6 8 6
Whipped Potatoes
MARINATED GRILLED VEGETABLES 6 8 6
Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Soy-Sesam e Glaze 6 8 6
Boiled Parsley Potatoes
689
CRANBERRY-ORANGE COMPOTE 6 8 9
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
692
W ILD RICE PILAF
M arinated Roasted Peppers
695
695
Potato Pancakes Potato Latkes
Sh rim p -S tuffed M irlitons
696
69 6 699
SU M M E R SQUASH SALSA
SHORT-GRAIN BROWN RICE PILAF 78 1
740
Annatto Rice
743
781
Arroz Blanco 781
Potatoes Anna 7 4 4
Arroz Mexicano 744
Coconut Rice
French-Fried Potatoes
782
Arroz Brasileiro 7 8 2
Rosti Potatoes 7 4 4
699
780
Brown Rice P ilaf with Pecans and Green Onions 7 8 0 -8 1
743
M acaire Potatoes
780
PEARL BARLEY PILAF
740
Hash Brown Potatoes
747
Risotto
782
783
Mushroom Quesadillas with Two Salsas 7 0 0
Sw eet Potato Chips 7 4 7
PARMESAN RISOTTO
Seasonal Vegetable Tarts
Berny Potatoes
W ILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO
Sauteed Arugula
701
747
Souffleed Potatoes
702
S tir-F ried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai) 7 0 2 Summer Squash Noodles
German Potato Salad
704
Belgian Endive a la M euniere
704
748
749
Curried Sw eet Potato Salad
Risotto alia Milanese 749
Tortilla de Papas
Jardiniere Vegetables
chapter 24 cooking grains and legumes
Vegetable Julienne
706
Macedoine of Vegetables Spinach Pancakes Pan-Fried Zucchini Corn F ritters
750
Black Bean Mash
768
707
Black Beans with Peppers and Chorizo 7 6 8
708
Vegetarian Black Bean Crepes 771
707
Vegetable Tempura Fried Plantain Chips
708
Vegetarian Risotto
Frijoles R efritos
771
783 784
Risotto with Mussels Basic Boiled Rice
706
707
783
RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS 7 8 3
748
Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino) 7 0 5 705
783
GREEN PEA RISOTTO (R /S /E BIS/) 7 8 3
748
C roquette Potatoes L o rette Potatoes
784
785
Steam ed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han) 7 8 5 Sushi Rice
785
Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage 7 8 7 Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo) 7 8 7 Paella Valenciana
788
Saffron Rice 7 8 8
Corona Beans (Fagioli all'Uccelletto) 7 7 2
Grilled Vegetable Jambalaya BBQS PICE RUB
79 1
Creamed Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados) 7 7 2
Rice C roquettes
79 2
Braised Fennel in B u tter 7 1 0 Braised Red Cabbage
Frijoles a la Charra
TOSTONES
Ratatouille
708
708
Braised Greens
Braised Romaine
710
711
711
78 0
780
WHEAT BERRY PILAF
740
Delmonico Potatoes
778
780
CONVERTED WHITE RICE PILAF
739
Chateau Potatoes
Curried Roasted Cauliflower 69 2
777
777
SHORT-GRAIN W HITE RICE PILAF (VALENCIA) 7 8 0
738
Mashed Sw eet Potatoes with Ginger 7 3 8
Lyonnaise Potatoes
Butternut Squash Puree 691
Poblanos Rellenos
Rice Pilaf
Potatoes au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise) 7 3 9
691
Eggplant Parmesan
Boiled W hite Beans Vegetarian Chili
Glazed Sw eet Potatoes
Baked Acorn Squash with Cranberry-Orange Compote
776
Red Beans and Boiled Rice
Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes 7 3 8
Asparagus with Lemony Hollandaise 6 8 8 -9
Roasted Carrots
737
775
775
776
Rice and Beans
Baked Potatoes with DeepFried Onions 7 3 7
Zucchini Pancakes with Tzatziki 6 8 8
Spaghetti Squash
F alafel
735
774
Southwest W hite Bean Stew Stewed Black Beans
735
Duchesse Potatoes
774
773
Basic Polenta
791
792
POLENTA WITH PARMESAN
792
Grits with Corn and Hominy 7 9 5
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Congee
795
Gnocchi di Semolina G ratinati
M illet and Cauliflower Puree 79 6
Gnocchi di Ricotta
Mixed Grain Pilaf
Gnocchi Piedmontese
79 6
Green Onion-Bulgur Pilaf
7 9 6 -7
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans 7 9 9
831
Barley Salad with Cucumber and M int 8 0 0 Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad Cracked W heat and Tomato Salad 8 0 3
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH BRATWURST 8 7 2
835
Hush Puppies 8 3 7
SCRAMBLED EGGS GRATINE
Dim Sum 8 3 7 POTSTICKERS
800
SCRAMBLED EGGS, HUNTERSTYLE 8 7 2
835
Biscuit Dumplings
803
837
Steam ed Dumplings (.S h a o - M a i) 8 3 8
Plain Rolled O m elet
804
Corn and Asiago Cheese Risotto Cakes 8 0 5
CHEESE OMELET 84 1
Potato and C heddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre N oisette, and Sage 8 4 2
chapter 25 cooking pasta and dumplings 819
WHOLE WHEAT PASTA BUCKWHEAT PASTA
CITRUS PASTA
819
819
819
O recchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan 821 821
866
JELLY OMELET
Tempeh Cashew Noodles
825
Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana 8 2 5 826
873
Farm er-S tyle O m elet
SAVORY CHEESE SOUFFLE
868
874
874 874
875
Warm Goat Cheese Custard 869
Quiche Lorraine
875
87 6
SPINACH QUICHE
POACHED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS 8 6 9
CARAM ELIZED ONION QUICHE 869
Poached Eggs with Corned Beef Hash 8 6 9
876
SMOKED SALMON AND DILL QUICHE 8 7 6
French Toast
871
878
871
POACHED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVER CHASSEUR 871 POACHED EGGS WITH SMOKED SALMON 871
Scrambled Eggs
876
BROCCOLI AND CHEDDAR QUICHE 8 7 6
POACHED EGGS, AM ERICANSTYLE 871
Asparagus and W hite Bean Lasagna 82 9
876
TOMATO AND LEEK QUICHE
POACHED EGGS MASSENA
Fried Eggs
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
873
Souffleed Cheddar O m elet
POACHED EGGS, FARMERSTYLE 8 6 9
Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (La sagna al Forno) 8 2 6
830
873 873
873
Spinach Souffle
868
EGGS FLORENTINE
822
Ravioli Bercy
866
868
Eggs Benedict
S tir-F ried Glass Noodles (.J a p C h a e ) 8 2 2
x ii
866
DEVILED EGGS WITH GREENS
Poached Eggs M om ay
PUMPKIN, CARROT, OR BEET PASTA 8 1 9
Couscous
DEVILED EGGS WITH TOMATO
Poached Eggs
873
WESTERN OMELET SPANISH OMELET
RED PICKLED EGGS
819
Pasta alia Carbonara
873
SHELLFISH OMELET
866
873
873
Artichoke Souffle
RED PEPPER PASTA
Pad Thai
866
819
Basic Boiled Pasta
873
SEAFOOD OMELET
SOFT-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
Pickled Eggs
819
BLACK PEPPER PASTA 8 1 9
TOMATO PASTA
OMELET OPERA
866
DEVILED EGGS WITH CHEESE
819
HERBED PASTA
CODDLED EGGS
Deviled Eggs
819
819
CURRIED PASTA
Hard-Cooked Eggs
873
873
OMELET MARCEL
MEDIUM-COOKED EGGS 8 6 6
819
SAFFRON PASTA
MEAT AND CHEESE OMELET HERB OMELET
OMELET FLORENTINE
chapter 2 6 cooking eggs
SPINACH PASTA
873
CHEESE AND VEGETABLE OMELET 8 7 3
TOMATO OMELET
Wild Rice Cakes 80 6
Fresh Egg Pasta
872
PLAIN ROLLED EGG WHITE OMELET 8 7 3
GINGE R-S OY DIPPING SAUCE
Fontina Risotto F ritters 8 0 4
872
SCRAMBLED EGGS, GREEKSTYLE 8 7 2
Pan-Fried Dumplings (G uoT ie ) 841
Amaranth Pancakes
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CHEESE 8 7 2 SCRAMBLED EGGS, SWEDISHSTYLE 8 7 2
832
834
Bread Dumplings
W heat Berry Salad with Oranges, Cherries, and Pecans 7 9 9
Saigon Crepes
Spatzle
831
871
chapter 27 salad dressings and salads Red Wine V in a ig re tte
896
W HITE WINE VINAIGRETTE
896
MUSTARD-HERB VINAIGRETTE
EGGS OVER EASY, MEDIUM , OR HARD 871
872
SCRAMBLED EGG WHITES
LEMON-GARLIC VINAIGRETTE 872
896
ROASTED GARLIC AND MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE 8 9 6
LEMON-PARS LEY VINAIGRETTE
896 896
Taco Salad
Chipotle-Sherry V in a ig re tte 8 9 6 Almond-Fig V in aig rette
897
Apple Cider V inaig rette
897
Balsamic V inaig rette Curry V inaig rette
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts 9 1 7
898
Honey-Poppy Seed-C itrus Dressing 8 9 8 Fire-Roasted Tomato V inaig rette 8 9 9
Truffle V in a ig re tte
899
900
901
Green Goddess Dressing
901
Catalina French Dressing
902
Peanut Dressing
Cucumber Dressing
903 903
904
Ranch-Style Dressing
Basil Oil
Paprika Oil
907
907
Thai Table Salad
907
908
Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad 9 0 8 908
Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Island Dressing 90 9 Chef’s Salad
909
Greek Salad
910
92 0
Tempeh Reuben
921
940 942
942
Cucumber Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese 94 3
921
W atercress Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise 9 4 3 Apple Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise 9 4 3 Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich 9 4 4 Tomato Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream 94 4
923
924
chapter 2 9 hors d’oeuvre and appetizers
924 925
Ham Salad
Mixed Green Salad
Caesar Salad
Tuna Salad Egg Salad
907
Green Onion Oil
Three Cheese M elt
H ue-Style Chicken Salad 9 2 4 C RISPY SH ALLO TS
90 6
906
Orange Oil
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego Cheese 94 0
Cucumber and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo) 9 2 2
Chicken Salad
905
Thousand Island Dressing
M A R IN ATED EGGPLANT FILLIN G 939
Cucumber Yogurt Salad 9 2 3 905
937
Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 9 3 9
Cucumber Salad 92 2
Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing 9 0 4 Japanese Salad Dressing
903
93 6
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sw eet and Sour Onions 9 3 7 Croque Monsieur
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae) 9 2 2
904
Blue Cheese Dressing
918
Ji'cama Salad 921 Green Papaya Salad
GREEN MAYONNAISE
AToli
Corn and Ji'cama Salad
903
936
Reuben Sandwich
Moroccan C arrot Salad
903
934
Barbecued Beef
Coleslaw 9 2 0
902
ANCHOVY-CAPER M AYONNAISE TARTAR SAUCE
Chicken Burger
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad (Mizeria Klasyczna) 9 2 0
902
C aesar-Style Dressing
Mayonnaise
Baby Spinach, Avocado, and G rapefruit Salad 9 1 8
Onion and Cucumber Salad (Kachu mber) 9 1 9
W A L N U T O IL A N D RED WINE VINAIGRETTE 901
934
Philly Hoagie
Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto 9 1 9
V inaig rette Gourmande
930
CIA Club
Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad
901
930
Seafood Ravigote
Sherried W atercress and Apple Salad 9 1 7
Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu) 9 1 9
Peanut Oil and M alt Vinegar Salad Dressing 9 0 0
Curried Rice Salad
Smoked Salmon Mousse
925
Shrimp Salad
Blue Cheese Mousse
925
European-Style Potato Salad Potato Salad
Pico de Gallo
953
92 6
92 6
95 3
Salsa Verde Asada 9 5 4 Salsa Verde Cruda
Eastern M editerranean Bread Salad (Fottoush) 9 2 6
Salsa Roja
Panzanella
G rap efruit Salsa
954
954
Papaya-Black Bean Salsa
927
Tomato and M ozzarella Salad
953
GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE
Pasta Salad with Pesto V in a ig re tte 9 2 5
953
928
955
95 5
Cumberland Sauce
955
Roasted Peppers (Peperoni A rro stiti) 9 2 8
Asian Dipping Sauce
Endive Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts (So/ode de Roquefort, Noix, e t Endives) 9 1 0
Green Lentil Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Puy) 9 2 8
Vietnam ese Dipping Sauce
Cobb Salad
Mixed Bean Salad
913
929
chapter 2 8 sandwiches
W aldorf Salad 9 1 8
HERB AND TRUFFLE VINAIGRETTE 900
Pesto V inaig rette
Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad
914
W ilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon V in a ig re tte 9 1 4
897
Guava-Curry V in a ig re tte
913
TACO SAUCE
VARIATION
95 6
Cilantro-Lim e Soy Sauce 956
Spring Roll Dipping Sauce
928
92 9
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce
956 95 7
95 7
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
Guacamole
958
Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce 98 2
chapter 32 yeast breads
Hummus bi Tahini 9 5 8 Baba Ghanoush
V itello Tonnato
Basic Lean Dough
Harissa
95 9
Tapenade Z'hug
958
959
96 0
983
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil 9 8 3
Baguettes
Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo) 9 8 4
Focaccia
Spicy Mustard 9 6 0 Wasabi
960
chapter 30 charcuterie and garde manger
Cranberry Relish 961 Seafood and Salmon Terrine
Spicy Mango Chutney 961 Curried Onion Relish Pickled Ginger
FLOUNDER MOUSSELINE
961
Pate G rand-M ere
962
Aspic
Pickled Red Onions 9 6 2 Tortilla Chips
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco
963
Smoked Salmon P la tte r
96 3
Clams Casino
Venison Terrine
S tu ffed Shrimp
96 9
970
Tofu Cakes with Portobello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup 971 Pescado Frito
1002
Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries 1 0 0 2 -3 1004
Gravlax
1006
1008
10 11
Vietnam ese Salad Rolls Beef Carpaccio
x iv
Simple Syrup
1023
Common Meringue Swiss M eringue
982
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
1072
HAM AND CHEDDAR SCONES
1073
1073 1073
Italian Meringue
1024
1024 1024
10 73
1074 1075
P u ff Pastry Dough
1076
1076
Blitz P u ff Pastry Dough Basic M u ffin Recipe
1077
1078
CRANBERRY-ORANGE M U FFIN S 1 0 7 8 BLUEBERRY MUFFINS
Bran M uffins Corn M uffins CORNBREAD
1073
1073
1074
DESSERT CREPES 1023
10 72
1072
Fried Bread (Puri)
Crepes Suzette
Chantilly C ream /W hipped Cream fo r Garnish 1 0 2 3
981
1070
1070
1072
Irish Soda Bread
Johnny Cakes 1023
LIQUEUR-FLAVORED SIMPLE SYRUP 1 0 2 3
981
Basic Pie Dough (3 -2 -1 )
OATMEAL PANCAKES
COFFEE SIM PLE SYRUP
98 0
chapter 33 pastry doughs and batters
BLUEBERRY PANCAKES
Egg Wash
California Rolls
1045 1046
CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES
Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 9 7 7
Potato Om elet ( Tortilla Espanola) 9 7 9
1044
S o ft Dinner Rolls 1 0 4 5
BANANA PANCAKES
1 0 11
chapter 31 baking m ise en place
978
Challah (3-Braid)
BASIC WAFFLES
Octopus "Fairground Style" (Pulpo a Feira) 976
Black Bean Cakes
10 40
B utterm ilk Pancakes
Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean) 9 7 6
Mushroom Strudel with Goat Cheese 9 7 8
BRIOCHE ATE TE
Raisin Bread with Cinnamon Swirl 1 0 4 3
RAISIN SCONES
1006
Pate Spice
1039
1040
Cream Scones
Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese 1 0 1 0
Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli) 9 7 5
1039
B utterm ilk Biscuits
Duck and Smoked Ham Terrine 1 0 0 4 -5 Pate Dough
1037
1037
1001
Seafood Pate en Croute
Mussels with W hite Wine and Shallots (M oules a la Mariniere) 9 7 5
SPINACH P IZZA
1 0 01
SAFFRON PATE DOUGH
97 2
MARGHERITA P IZZ A
Sticky Buns
1000
Chicken Liver Pate
970
1037
Sw eet Dough
Chicken Galantine
FOIE GRAS ROULADE
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes 9 6 9
999
99 9
Foie Gras Terrine
966
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic
99 6
996
Pork Tenderloin Roulade
96 6
Pita Bread
Semolina Pizza Crust 1 0 3 7
Brioche Loaf
MEAT BRINE
Coconut Macadam ia Shrimp
1036 1036
Cottage Dill Rolls
994
C ountry-Style Terrine (Pdte de Campagne) 9 9 8
Tuna Carpaccio ( Crudo di Tonno alia B attuta) 9 6 5
1034
Hard Rolls
Naan Bread
995
Shellfish Essence
96 2
993
993
Chicken and Crayfish Terrine
962
Seviche of Scallops
Spring Rolls
1034
Ciabatta
Roasted Red Pepper Marm alade 9 6 0
Samosas
Boules
1033
1033
1078 1079 1079
1078
I
B anana-N utB read Pumpkin Bread Pound Cake
chapter 35 fillings, frostings, and dessert sauces
1079
1 0 81
Italian Buttercream
Devil's Food Cake
1082
Apple Pie
1082
Vanilla Sponge Cake
Pecan Pie
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE
1083
1083
1084 1084
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS
1127
Sabayon
1085
1 -2 -3 Cookie Dough
CHERRY-CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES 1 0 8 8
Apple B u tter
1130
Nut Tuile Cookies
chapter 36 plated desserts Warm Date Spice Cake with Dates, Butterscotch Sauce, and Cinnamon Ice Cream 1 1 3 5
1090
1098 1098
Pastry Cream fo r S ouffles
10 98
1099
1099
1103
CHOCOLATE IC EC REAM COFFEE ICE CREAM
1103
1103
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM
1103
Diplomat Cream 1 1 0 3 Chocolate Mousse 1 1 0 4 Raspberry Mousse 1 1 0 4 Chocolate Souffle
1106
Bread and B u tter Pudding
1106
1135
1 1 51
GRAHAM CRACKER ICE CREAM 11 51 1152
1152
CLASSIC CARAMEL SAUCE W HITE SAUCE
1154
Pro fitero les
1157
MILK CHOCOLATE C INNAMON STICKS 1 1 3 6
COFFEE ICE CREAM
DATE SPICE CAKE
CORN FLAKE CRUNCH
1137 1137
1153 1153
CHOCOLATE BEIGNET BATTER 1 1 5 4
VANILLA ICE CREAM
1136
1157 1158
D U L C E D E L E C H E IC E CREAM
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
1159
VANILLA CARAMEL SAUCE
ORANGE-SCENTED CREME CHANTILLY 1 1 3 8
CHOCOLATE PATE A CHOUX CHOCOLATE STRAWS
1158
1159
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 1 1 3 7
CARAME LIZE D APPLES
1100
Vanilla Ice Cream
APPLE CHIPS
P H Y L LO T U B E S
CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM
Creme Caramel
1150
BEIGN ET TR UFF LE CENTERS
C INNAMO N IC E C RE A M
Creme Brulee
COCONUT FLANS
MA R S H MA LL OW
chapter 34 custards, cream s, and mousses
Pastry Cream
1150
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST FOR S ’MORES 1 1 5 2
1090
Fudge Brownies
1149
COCONUT CHIPS
CHOCOLATE GRAHAM DECOR
1130
Fruit Salsa 1 1 3 0
1089
1146
Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Cilantro Sorbet 1 1 4 9
S’mores
1130
1089
Oatm eal-Raisin Cookies
Vanilla Sauce
1129
1129
Dried Cherry Sauce 1088
1146
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1 1 4 6
CILANTRO SORBET 1129
Apricot Glaze
CREME CHANTILLY
MANGO AND PASSION-POACHED PINEAPPLE 1 1 4 9
1129
Raspberry Coulis
1088
Chocolate Chunk Cookies
1128
1128
Classic Caramel Sauce 1086
1145
STRAWBERRY COULIS
1129
ZABAGLIONE
Almond-Anise Biscotti 1 0 8 6
Mudslide Cookies
1128
1128
Chocolate Sauce
1085
1145
KEY LIME TART 1 1 4 6
Frangipane Filling
POACHED PEARS
IC E C R E A M -F ILLE D PROFITEROLES 10 85
Pecan Diamonds
1126
1127
Pear Frangipane T artlets
Eclairs 1 0 8 5
1145
LEMON CURD
Key Lime Tart 1 1 4 6
CRANBERRY-PECAN PIE
Hard Ganache
1144
BASIL SAUCE
BLUEBERRY COMPOTE
1126
Pumpkin Pie 1084
GOUGERES(GRUYERE CHEESE PUFFS) 1 0 8 4
Profiteroles
1126
Lemon Meringue Pie
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
P a te a C h o u x
1125
1125
Cherry Pie
1083
Chocolate XS Cake Cheesecake
1143 1144
TUIL ES
1081
Angel Food Cake
BASIL ICE CREAM TARTLET SHELLS
1159 1160
1160
1138
Blackberry and Port-Poached Pears with R icotta Cream and Sable Cookies 1 1 3 9 BLACKBERRY AND PORT-POACHED PEARS 1 1 3 9 SABLE COOKIES
1140
RICOTTA CREAM
1140
Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberry Compote 1 1 4 3
M A S T E R RECIPE LIST
xv
acknowledgments THANK YOU to th e fo llo w in g fa c u lty and s t a f f a t The C ulinary In s titu te o f A m erica fo r a ssistin g in the revision f o r th e ninth e d itio n o f The P rofe s sio n al Chef: Tim Ryan, CMC, AAC; M ark Erickson, CMC; Brad Barnes, CMC, CCA, AAC; Lou Jones; Charlie Rascoll; Eve Felder; Thomas L. Vaccaro. The h e a rt o f th is book is th e d e ta ile d exp la n a tio n o f cooking m etho ds in w ords and images, as w e ll as an am azingly diverse c o lle c tio n o f recipes. For th e ir d e d ica tio n to ex cellence in several areas (reading and c ritiq u in g th e te x t, te s tin g and review ing recipes, and being th e hands you see in th e ph otographs), th e fo llo w in g in dividu als are also to be co n g ra tu la te d and thanked:
Mark Ainsworth '86, CHE, PC III, CEC
Martin Frei, CHE
Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE
Michael A. Garnero, CHE
David J. Barry '95, CHE
Lynne Gigliotti ’88, CHE
Frederick C. Brash '76, CHE
Peter Greweling, CMB, CHE
Elizabeth E. Briggs, CHE
Carol D. Hawran '93
Robert Briggs
Marc Haymon '81, CMB, CHE
David J. Bruno '88, PC lll/CEC, CHE
James W. Heywood '67, CHE
Kate Cavotti, CMB, CHE
George B. Higgins '78, CMB, CHE
Dominick Cerrone
James Michael Jennings '93
Shirley Shuliang Cheng, CWC, CHE
Stephen J. Johnson '94
Howard F. Clark 7 1 , CCE, CWC, CHE
David Kamen '88, PC lll/CEC, CCE, CHE
Richard J. Coppedge, Jr., CMB, CHE Gerard Coyac, CHE Phillip Crispo PC lll/CEC/CHE Paul Delle Rose ’94, CHE Joseph DePaola '94, CHE John DeShetler ’68, CHE, PCII/CCC Joseph W .D iP erri'77, CHE Alain Dubernard, CHE, CMB Stephen J. Eglinski, CHE, CMB Anita Olivarez Eisenhauer, CHE Mark Elia Joseba Encabo, CHE
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Morey Kanner '84, CHE Cynthia Keller '83 Thomas K ie f ’78, CHE Joseph Klug '82, CHE Todd R. Knaster, CMB, CHE John Kowalski '77, CHE Pierre LeBlanc, CHE Xavier Le Roux, CHE Alain L. Levy, CCE, CHE Anthony J. Ligouri, CHE Dwayne F. LiPuma '86, CHE
James Maraldo, CHE
Thomas Schneller, CHE
Hubert J. Martini, CEC, CCE, CHE, AAC
Dieter G. Schorner, CMB, CHE
Bruce S. M a t t e l'80, CHE Francisco Migoya, CMB, CHE Darryl Mosher, CHE Robert Mullooly '93 Tony Nogales’ 88, PCII, CEC, CHE Michael Pardus '81, CHE Robert Perillo '86, CHE William Phillips '88, CHE
Johann Sebald, CHE Michael Skibitcky, PCIII, CEC, CHE David F. Smythe, CCE, CEC, CHE Brannon Soileau '91, CHE Rudolf Spiess, CHE John J. S te in '80, CFBE, CHE Scott Schwartz '89, CEC, CHE Jurgen Temme, CMB, CHE Alberto Vanoli, CHE
Katherine Polenz '73, CHE Howard Velie, CEC, CHE Heinrich Rapp, CHE Gerard Viverito, CEC, CHE Surgeio Remolina, CHE Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE John Reilly '88,CCC,CHE Stephane Weber, CHE Theodore R o e '91, CHE Paul R. Sartory '78
Jonathan A. Zearfoss, CEC, CCE, CCP, CHE
Giovanni Scappin
Gregory Z ifc h a k '80, CHE
Eric L. Schawaroch '84, CHE
For th e p ro fe ssio n a l ch e f th e re are m any s u b je cts to m aster. A special th a n k you to th o se who helped develop and review ch a p te rs d e d ica te d to m anagem ent, fo o d safe ty, and n u tritio n :
Marjorie Livingston, RD, CHE Richard Vergili, CHE
The im ages in th is book w ere cre a te d in th e In s titu te 's stu d io s and kitchens. M any tha nks to p h o to g ra p h e r Ben Fink w hose e x p e rtis e and a r tis tr y is the p e rfe c t com p le m en t to th e te x t, tech niq ue s, and recipes. Thanks to the book's designer, A lison Lew o f V e rtig o Design, who b ro u g h t it all t o g e th e r b e a u tifu lly and to th e p ro d u c tio n e d ito r a t W iley, Alda Trabucchi, fo r her tire le s s a tte n tio n to every d e ta il, large and sm all. And fin a lly , th a n k you to Pam Chirls, executive e d ito r, fo r her ove rall guidance and vision.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
introduction BECOMING A CHEF is a ca re e r-lo n g process. C ooking is a dynam ic p ro fe s s io n — one th a t pro vid es som e o f th e g re a te s t challenges as w e ll as som e o f th e g re a te s t rew ards. There is always a n o th e r level o f p e rfe c tio n to achieve and a n o th e r s k ill to m aster. It is our hope th a t th is book w ill fu n c tio n bo th as a sp rin g b o a rd in to fu tu re g ro w th and as a refere nce p o in t to give b a lla s t to th e lessons s till to be learned. By the na ture o f its en cyclo ped ic su b je ct coverage, th is te x t is su ite d to a v a rie ty o f curricula , w h e th e r as p a rt o f an e x is tin g program or th ro u g h in de pen de nt study. An in s tru c to r may choose to use all o r p a rt o f its c o n te n ts; th e s tu d e n t may use it to ad vance his o r her learning by em p lo ying it as a broad, basic te x t o r as a re fe re n ce to o l to answ er s p e c ific qu estio ns ab ou t a p a rtic u la r technique. The tech niq ue s as explained in th is book have all been te s te d in th e In s titu te ’s kitche ns. Each re p re se n ts one o f many po ssib le va ria tio n s. The fa c t th a t all v a ria tio n s are n o t included in th is te x t does not im p ly th a t o th e r m etho ds are in co rre ct. E xperience w ill teach th e s tu d e n t many "tric k s o f th e trade." The t it le o f th is w o rk should n o t p u t it in to th e ra rifie d ca te g o ry o f books to be used only by th o se w o rk in g in re s ta u ra n t or h o te l kitche ns. The basic lessons o f coo kin g are th e same w h e th e r one pre pa res fo o d f o r paying g u ests or fo r one's fa m ily and frie n d s . T h ere fore, we hope th a t th o se who lo ok to coo kin g f o r a cre a tive o u tle t w ill com e to reg ard th is book as a valuable to o l. This book is su ite d to a v a rie ty o f te a ch in g s itu a tio n s because th e m a te ria l is a r ranged in a logical, p ro gre ssive sequence. C h ap te r One covers th e h is to ry o f cooking as a p ro fe ssio n and exam ines th e skills and a ttrib u te s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l che f and o th e r m em bers o f th e f oo dse rvice p ro fe ssio n . (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab ou t ta b le service and dining room op era tions, co n su lt A t Your Service o r R e m arkab le Service.) Since f o o dse rvice is a business, som e o f th e e le m e n ta ry aspects o f fo o d c o s t ing are discussed in C hapter Two, as is how to a d a p t re c ip e s — fro m th is book or any o th e r— f o r use in a s p e c ific p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen. Know ing how to ad ap t recipes is useful f o r scheduling, c o n tro llin g costs, and im p ro vin g q u a lity. (For m ore d e ta ils ab ou t c u li nary m ath, co n su lt M a t h f o r the P rofe ssio n al Kitchen.) N u tritio n and fo o d science have becom e p a rt o f th e everyday language o f th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and C hapter Three review s som e basic con cep ts o f n u tritio n and science, p a rtic u la rly as th e y re la te to cooking. (For m ore in fo rm a tio n ab o u t n u tritio n a l cooking, co n su lt Techniques o f H ealthy Cooking.) Food and kitch e n s a fe ty are o f in crea sing concern in all fo o d s e rv ic e op e ra tio n s, and C hapter Four p re se n ts fu n d a m e n ta l con cep ts and procedures fo r assuring th a t safe, w holesom e fo o d is pre pa red in a safe en viro nm en t. Counted am ong th e basics in th e kitch e n is th e a b ility to seek o u t and purchase the b e st po ssib le in g re d ie n ts. P art Two is a ca ta lo g o f th e to o ls and in g re d ie n ts used in the p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, and includes in fo rm a tio n re g ard ing p ro d u c t sp e c ific a tio n s , p u r chasing, and such p ro cessing concerns as trim loss. There are sep ara te cha pters devoted to m eats, p o u ltry , and game; fis h and sh e llfish ; fru its , veg etab le s, and fre s h herbs; dairy p ro d u cts and eggs; and nonperishable goods such as oils, flo u rs , grains, and dried pastas. C ooking is n o t alw ays a p e rfe c tly precise a rt, b u t a good grasp o f the basics gives th e ch e f or s tu d e n t the a b ility not only to apply th e tech niq ue , b u t also to learn the s ta n dards o f q u a lity so th a t th e y begin to develop a sense o f how coo kin g w orks. P art Three is de voted to stocks, sauces, and soups. The p a rt opens w ith a ch a p te r covering such
x v iii
I N T R O D U C T IO N
basic m ise en place tech niq ue s as p re p a rin g and using seasoning and a ro m a tic com bina tio n s (b o uq uet garni and sach et d'epices), m ire p o ix, and th icke n e rs (roux and starches). P a rt Four p re se n ts th e tech niq ue s used to cook m eats, p o u ltry , fish, and she llfish . This p a rt covers th e basic fa b ric a tin g m etho ds f o r fa m ilia r cuts o f m eat, p o u ltry , and fish and the n d e m o n stra te s how to g rill, ro a st, saute, pan fry , s tir- fr y , deep fry , steam , poach, stew , and braise. These im p o rta n t lessons are p re se n te d in cle ar s te p -b y -s te p p h o to graphs, w ith e x p la n a to ry te x t and a m odel recipe. In P art Five, cha pters c o n c e n tra te on p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s fo r vegetables, grains and legum es, pasta and dum plings, and p o ta to e s. P art Six covers b re a k fa s t and garde manger, w ith ch a p te rs cove rin g eggs, salad dressings and salads, sandwiches, and garde m anger ite m s such as pa tes and te rrin e s . (For fu r th e r in fo rm a tio n on these sub je cts, co n su lt Garde M anger: The A r t an d C r a ft o f th e Cold Kitchen, Third E d itio n .) Baking and p a s try is p re se n te d in P a rt Seven, w ith a tte n tio n paid to th e p re p a ra tio n o f breads and rolls; cakes and cookies; p a s try doughs and crusts; a v a rie ty o f fillin g s , icings, and glazes; and p la te d de sserts. The recipes included in th is book are exam ples o f th e w ide range o f p o s s ib ilitie s open to th e s tu d e n t once th e basics are m astere d. It should be no ted th a t these recipes have bo th A m erican and m e tric m easurem ents. The recipe yie ld s re fle c t re a l-life coo k ing s itu a tio n s : som e item s, such as sto c k s and soups, are p re pa red in large q u a n titie s, w h ile oth ers, such as sautes and g rills , are p re pa red a la m inute, a fe w p o rtio n s a t a tim e. La rge r roa sts, braises, stew s, and side dishes g e n e ra lly have yie ld s o f 10 servings; any m arinades, sauces, o r co n d im e n ts included in th e recipes th a t are prepa red in advance are n o rm a lly given in q u a n titie s to produce a yie ld o f 10 servings. These yie ld s may not alw ays s u it th e s tu d e n t w ho is using th e book o u ts id e o f a p ro fe s s io n a l kitchen. In m ost cases, th e y can be reduced o r increased in o rd e r to pre pa re th e c o rre c t num ber o f s e rv ings. Baking recipe yie ld s are based on s p e c ific w e ig h t ra tio s, however, and m ust be f o l lowed exactly. The new lo o k in th is new e d itio n re fle c ts th e w ay we th in k ab ou t tea chin g cooking. We learn b e st when we un de rsta nd n o t only how to do som ething, b u t why we should do it th a t way. From th is grounded approach, s tu d e n ts a t any level can c o n fid e n tly ta ke new d ire c tio n s in th e ir coo kin g careers.
I N T R O D U C T IO N
x ix
the culinary prof< PART 1
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introduction to the profession Evolving into a professional culinarian is a lifelong journey/full of learned details and years of experience. It is challenging and deraffiding. Specific techniques and acquired knowledge are continually tested and improved upon. The specialized training required is intricate am precise. Deciding where to begin your study is just as important as tljfp ro c e s s of learning.
becoming a culinary professional A sound and th o ro u g h e d uca tion em phasizing th e c u li
An e sta b lish e d n e tw o rk also makes it much easier fo r
nary fu n d a m e n ta ls is th e f ir s t ste p to becom ing flu e n t
you to fin d a new p o s itio n or q u a lifie d em ployees.
in the trade . A s p irin g p ro fe ssio n a ls w ill fin d fo rm a l
Learning new skills to gain a c o m p e titiv e stance
tra in in g a t an a c c re d ite d school an e xce lle n t beginning.
and encourage c re a tiv ity should be an ongoing p a rt o f
O th er tra in in g a lte rn a tiv e s include ta k in g p a rt in special
you r career de velopm ent. B e n e ficia l and rew arding o p
a p p re n tice sh ip program s o r s e lf-d ire c te d courses o f
p o rtu n itie s re s u lt fro m a tte n d in g con tin u in g education
study. The process involves advancing fro m kitche n to
classes, w orkshops, and sem inars. Remain up to date
kitch e n by learning a t th e side o f chefs who are involved
w ith th e fo llo w in g in fo rm a tiv e resources:
in th e d a y-to -d a y business o f running a p ro fe ssio n a l kitchen. The goal is to ensure a th o ro u g h u n de rsta nd ing o f basic and advanced cu lin a ry techniques, reg ard less o f th e ty p e o f tra in in g received. C re atin g a n e tw o rk o f p ro fe ssio n a l colleagues and in d u s try c o n ta cts is im p o rta n t fo r fu tu re developm ent. The avenue o f g ro w th th a t includes w o rk in g w ith others, sharing in fo rm a tio n , and com m u nica ting re g u la rly w ill
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help to keep your own w o rk fre s h and co n tem po rary.
the attributes of a culinary professional Each m em ber o f a p ro fe ssio n is resp on sible fo r th e p ro
the degree to which they will succeed in providing
fessio n's image, w h e th e r he or she is a teacher, lawyer,
excellent service.
doctor, o r culinarian. Those who have made th e g re a te s t
» SENSE OF R E S P O N S IB ILITY — The responsibility
im pression know th a t th e card in al v irtu e s o f th e culinary
of a culinary professional includes respecting not
p ro fe ssio n are an open and in q u irin g m ind, an a p p re cia
just the customer and his or her needs but also the
tio n o f and d e d ica tio n to q u a lity w h ere ver it is found,
s ta ff, food, equipment, and facility.
and a sense o f re s p o n s ib ility . Success also depends on several ch a ra cte r tra its , som e o f w hich are inherent, some o f which are d ilig e n tly c u ltiv a te d th ro u g h o u t a career. These include: » C O M M ITM E N TT O SERVICE— The degree to which
» SOUND JUDG M ENT— The ability to judge what is right and appropriate in each work situation is acquired throughout a life tim e of experience; good judgm ent is a prerequisite fo r becoming and re maining a professional.
a foodservice professional can o ffe r a quality prod uct, as well as thorough customer satisfaction, is
the chef as a businessperson As you con tinu e you r career, you w ill move fro m p o s i
w ill be called on to learn and assum e ta sks and re sp o n si
tio n s where your te ch n ica l prow ess is your g re a te s t
b ilitie s th a t are m ore m anagerial, m arking a s h ift in the
c o n trib u tio n in to tho se where you r sk ills as an execu
e vo lu tio n o f your career.
tive , an a d m in is tra to r, and a m anager are m ore cle arly
Become a g o o d executive. E xecutives are th e in d i
in dem and. This does n o t mean th a t y ou r a b ility to g rill,
vid ua ls who develop a m ission o r a plan fo r a com pany
saute, or ro a s t fo o d s to th e exa ct p o in t o f doneness is
o r org an izatio n. They are also th e ones responsible
less im p o rta n t than it was b e fo re . It does mean th a t you
fo r de veloping a system to a llow th a t plan to come to
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
fru itio n . As an executive, you m ust sho ulder a large p o r
service or goods th a t you are o ffe rin g your custom er?
tio n o f re s p o n s ib ility f o r th e success or fa ilu re o f your
C o m p e titio n con tinu es to increase, and unless your
e sta b lish m e n t. E xecutives d o n't o p e ra te in a vacuum,
e s ta b lis h m e n t is d iffe re n t, b e tte r, fa s te r, or unique in
however. N or do th e y em erge fu ll blow n one day o u t o f
some way, th e re is every chance th a t it may n o t survive,
th e blue. Even b e fo re you w ear a ja c k e t e m b roid ere d
le t alone prosper.
w ith "E xe cutive Chef,” you w ill have begun to exercise your a b ilitie s as an executive. Become a g o o d ad m in istra to r. Once an overall goal or plan has been laid down, th e ne xt ta s k is to im p le m en t and tra c k th a t plan. Now y ou r hat becom es th a t o f an a d m in is tra to r. Som e a d m in is tra tiv e du tie s may not sound a t all g la m o ro u s— p re p a rin g schedules, tra c k in g deliveries, c o m p u tin g costs, and so fo rth . If a re s ta u ra n t is sm all, th e exe cutive and a d m in is tra to r w ill be the same person. T hat same person also m ig h t be the one who dons a u n ifo rm and w o rks th e line. The be st ad m in is tra to rs are th o se who can cre a te a fe e lin g th ro u g h o u t the e n tire s t a f f th a t each person has a stake in g e ttin g th in g s done c o rre c tly . When you give people th e o p p o r tu n ity to help make de cisions and pro vid e the m w ith the to o ls the y need to p e rfo rm o p tim a lly , you w ill see th a t it is easier to achieve th e goals you have e sta b lish e d on an exe cutive level. Learn to use the im p o rta n t to o ls o f your business; budgets, acco un ting system s, and in v e n to ry c o n tro l system s all play a role. M any org an izatio ns, fro m the la rg e st chains to th e sm a lle st one-person ca te rin g com pany, re ly upon s o ftw a re syste m s th a t allow the m to e ffic ie n tly a d m in is te r a num ber o f areas: in ven to ry, purchases, losses, sales, p ro fits , fo o d costs, cu sto m e r com p la ints, re se rva tio n s, pa yroll, schedules, and bud
M ANAGING PHYSICAL ASSETS Physical asse ts are th e e q u ip m e n t and supplies needed to do business. In th e case o f a re sta u ra n t, these m ig ht include fo o d and beverage in ven to ry, tab les, chairs, lin ens, china, fla tw a re , glassw are, co m p u te rs and p o in t o f sale system s, cash re g iste rs, kitch e n equipm ent, clean ing supplies, and w a re-w a shing machines. When we ta lk ab o u t m anaging physical assets, we are considering how a n yth in g th a t you m ust purchase o r pay f o r a ffe c ts your a b ility to do business w ell. The f ir s t ste p in bring ing the expenses a sso cia te d w ith you r physical assets under c o n tro l is to know w h a t your expenses a ctu a lly are. Then you can begin th e process o f m aking the ad ju stm e nts and in s titu tin g th e c o n tro l system s th a t w ill keep your o rg a n iza tio n o p e ra tin g a t m axim al e ffic ie n c y . One o f th e b ig g e s t expenses fo r any re s ta u ra n t w ill always be fo o d and beverage costs. You o r your purchasing agent w ill have to w o rk hard to develop and sustain a good purchasing system . The in fo rm a tio n fo u n d in P art Two o f th is book can help. Because each op e ra tio n has d iffe re n t needs, th e re are no h a rd -a n d -fa s t rules, ju s t princip le s th a t you w ill ap ply to you r own situ a tio n .
M ANAGING INFORMATION
gets. If you are n o t using a system capable o f tra c k in g all
You may o fte n fe e l th a t you can never keep cu rre n t in all
th is in fo rm a tio n and m ore, you cannot be as e ffe c tiv e as
th e im p o rta n t areas o f your w ork. Given the sheer v o l
you need to be.
ume o f in fo rm a tio n being ge n e ra te d each day, you are
Become a g o od manager. M anaging a re sta u ra n t, or
p ro b a b ly rig h t. The a b ility to ta p in to the in fo rm a tio n
any o th e r business, is a jo b th a t req uire s th e a b ility to
reso urce s you need, using all ty p e s o f m edia and te c h
handle fo u r areas e ffe c tiv e ly : physical assets, in fo rm a
nology, has never been m ore im p o rta n t. R estaurants,
tio n , people (human resources), and tim e . The g re a te r
menus, and tre n d s in dinin g room design have all been
your sk ills in m anaging any o f the se areas, th e g re a te r
d ra m a tic a lly im p a cte d by such s o c ie ta l tre n d s as busier,
your p o te n tia l f o r success. M any m anagem ent system s
o n -th e -g o life s ty le s and in crea sing in te re s t in w o rld
to d a y stre ss th e use o f q u a lity as a ya rd s tic k . Every as
cuisines. P re va ilin g ta s te s in p o litic s , a rt, fashion, m ov
p e ct o f your o p e ra tio n needs to be seen as a w ay to im
ies, and m usic do have an e ffe c t on w h a t people eat and
prove th e q u a lity o f service you p ro vid e your custom ers.
w here and how th e y w a n t to eat it. In fo rm a tio n g a th e r
As we look a t w h a t you m ig h t be e xp ected to do in o rd e r
ing can becom e a fu ll- tim e ta s k on its own. To make use
to manage e ffe c tiv e ly , th e fu n d a m e n ta l qu estio n you
o f th e in fo rm a tio n available, you m ust be able to analyze
need to ask, over and over, is th is: How w ould a change
and eva lu ate c a re fu lly to s if t o u t th e im p o rta n t m a te ria l
(or lack o f change) in a given area a ffe c t th e q u a lity o f
fro m useless data.
c h a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
M A N A G I N G H U M A N RES OURCES R e sta ura nt o p e ra tio n s re ly d ire c tly on th e w o rk and d e d ica tio n o f a num ber o f people, fro m executives and a d m in is tra to rs to line cooks, w a it s ta ff, and m a in te nance and cleaning s ta ff. No m a tte r how large o r sm all your s t a f f m ay be, th e a b ility to engage all your w o rke rs in a tea m e f f o r t is one o f th e m ajor fa c to rs in d e te rm in ing w h e th e r you w ill succeed o r not. Your goal should be to cre a te an en viro n m e n t in
You m ust keep a p ro p e rly co m p le te d 1-9 fo rm on file f o r every em ployee, and you should be fa m ilia r w ith the re g u la tio n s th a t could a ffe c t you or th o se you employ. The Im m ig ra tio n and N a tu ra liz a tio n Service (INS) w ilt pro vid e th e necessary in fo rm a tio n .
M AN AG ING TIME It may seem th a t no m a tte r how hard you w o rk or how much planning you do, th e days aren’t long enough.
w hich all s t a f f fe e l th e y have a d is tin c t and m easurable
Learning new sk ills so th a t you can make the be st pos
c o n trib u tio n to make w ith in th e org an izatio n. The f ir s t
sible use o f th e tim e you have c e rta in ly ou gh t to be an
ta s k is e sta b lish in g clear c rite ria , o th e rw is e known as
ongoing p a rt o f you r care er developm ent. If you look
a jo b d e scrip tio n . Training is an o th e r key com ponent. If
over your op e ra tio n , you w ill see w here tim e is w asted.
you w a n t som eone to do a jo b w ell, you f ir s t have to both
In m o st op e ra tio n s, th e to p fiv e tim e w a ste rs are
explain and d e m o n stra te th e q u a lity sta n d a rd s th a t you
lack o f clear p rio ritie s f o r tasks; poor s t a f f train in g;
e xp e ct to see. You need to c o n tin u a lly re in fo rc e tho se
p o or com m u nica tion ; p o o r org an izatio n; and m issing or
stan dard s w ith clear, o b je c tiv e eva lu a tio n o f an em
inad equ ate to o ls to accom plish tasks. To com b at these
ployee's w o rk th ro u g h fee d b a ck, c o n s tru c tiv e c ritic is m ,
tim e w a ste rs, use th e fo llo w in g s tra te g ie s.
and, when necessary, a d d itio n a l tra in in g o r d is c ip lin a ry m easures.
Invest tim e in reviewing daily opera tions. Consider th e w ay you, you r cow orkers, and you r s t a f f spend the
The m anagem ent o f human resources includes
day. Does everyone have a basic un de rsta n d in g o f which
several legal re s p o n s ib ilitie s . Everyone has th e rig h t to
ta sks are m o s t im p o rta n t? Do th e y know when to begin
w o rk in an e n viro n m e n t th a t is fre e fro m physical haz
a p a rtic u la r ta s k in o rd e r to b rin g it to co m p le tio n on
ards. This means th a t as an em ployer, you m ust provide
tim e ? It can be an eye-opening experience to ta ke a hard
a w orkspace th a t is w ell lit, p ro p e rly v e n tila te d , and fre e
lo ok a t w here th e w o rkda y goes. Once you see th a t you
fro m obvious dangers such as im p ro p e rly m aintained
and your s t a f f need to w a lk to o fa r to g a th e r basic ite m s
equipm ent. Em ployees m ust have access to p o ta b le
o r th a t th e person who washes th e dishes is s ittin g idle
w a te r and ba th ro o m fa c ilitie s . Beyond th is bare m in i
fo r th e f ir s t tw o hours o f th e s h ift, you can ta ke steps
mum, you may o ffe r a lo cke r room , a laundry fa c ility
to re c tify th e problem . You can t r y to reorganize s to r
th a t pro vid es clean u n ifo rm s and aprons, or o th e r such
age space. You may decide to tra in the dishw asher to do
am enities. W orkers' c om pensation, un em p loym e nt insurance,
som e prep w ork, or you can re w rite th e schedule so th a t th e s h ift begins tw o hours later. U n til you are o b je ctive
and d is a b ility insurance are also you r re s p o n s ib ility . You
ab ou t w h a t needs to be done and in w h a t order, you can't
are re q u ire d to make all legal d e d u ctio n s fro m an em
begin th e process o f saving tim e.
ployee's paycheck and to re p o rt all earnings p ro p e rly to
Invest tim e in t rain in g others. If you exp ect som eone
s ta te and fe d e ra l agencies. L ia b ility insurance (to cover
to do a jo b p ro p e rly, ta ke enough tim e to explain the
any harm to your fa c ility , em ployees, o r guests) m ust be
ta s k ca re fu lly. W alk y o u rs e lf and you r s t a f f throu gh the
ke p t up to da te and a t adequate levels.
jo b s th a t m ust be done, and be sure th a t everyone un
You may also choose to o ffe r a d d itio n a l fo rm s o f as
de rsta nd s how to do th e w ork, w here to fin d necessary
sistan ce as p a rt o f an em ployee b e n e fits package. L ife
item s, how fa r each p e rson’s re s p o n s ib ility extends, and
insurance, m edical and de n ta l insurance, assistance w ith
w h a t to do in case a q u e stio n o r em ergency com es up.
such th in g s as de pe nd ent care, a d u lt lite ra c y tra in in g ,
Give your s t a f f th e y a rd s tic k s th e y need to evaluate
and e n ro llm e n t in and s u p p o rt f o r tho se en ro lle d in sub
th e jo b and d e te rm in e if th e y have done w h a t was re
stance abuse program s are all ite m s o f w hich you should
quested, in th e a p p ro p ria te fashion, and on tim e . If you
be aware. In an in cre a sin g ly tig h t la bo r m arke t, a g e n e r
do n't in ve st th is tim e up fro n t, you may fin d y o u rs e lf
ous b e n e fits package can make th e d iffe re n c e in the
squandering precious tim e fo llo w in g your w o rkers
c alibe r o f em ployee you are able to a ttra c t and retain.
around, p ickin g up the slack and handling w o rk th a t sho uldn't be ta k in g up you r day.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
Learn to c om m u nic a te clearly. W h e th e r you are
adequate, e a sy-to -acce ss storag e space f o r common
tra in in g a new em ployee, in tro d u c in g a new menu item ,
ite m s such as w hips, spoons, ladles, and tongs. E le ctrical
or o rd e rin g a piece o f eq uipm en t, cle ar com m u nica tion
o u tle ts f o r sm all e q u ip m e n t ou gh t to be w ith in reach o f
is im p o rta n t. Be sp e cific, use th e m o st concise language
everyone. W hile you m ay be fo rc e d to w o rk w ith in the
you can, and be as b r ie f as po ssib le w ith o u t leaving o u t
lim its o f you r e x is tin g flo o r plan, be on the lo o ko u t fo r
necessary in fo rm a tio n . If ta s k s are handled by a num ber
p ro d u c ts o r sto ra g e s tra te g ie s th a t can tu rn a bad a r
o f people, be sure to w rite o u t each ta s k fro m th e f ir s t
ran ge m ent in to one th a t w o rks s m o o th ly and evenly.
step to th e last. Encourage people to ask qu e stio n s if
Purchase, replace, and m a in ta in all necessary tools.
the y d o n 't u n de rsta nd you. If you need help learning
A w e ll-e q u ip p e d kitch e n w ill have enough o f all the to o ls
com m u nica tion skills, con sid er ta k in g a w o rksho p or
necessary to p re p a re every ite m on th e menu. If you are
sem inar to stre n g th e n any w eak areas.
m issing s o m e th in g as basic as a sieve, your cream soups
Take s tep s to c re a te an o rd e rly w o rk environm ent. If
w on’t have th e rig h t con sisten cy. If you have a menu w ith
you have to dig th ro u g h fiv e shelves to fin d th e lid to the
several sauteed a p p e tize rs, entrees, and side dishes,
storage c o n ta in e r you ju s t p u t th e s to c k in, you haven't
are you and you r line cooks w a itin g around w h ile the p o t
been using your tim e w isely. Planning w o rk areas ca re
w asher scram bles to g e t you re sto cke d w ith saute pans?
fu lly , th in k in g ab ou t all th e to o ls , in g re d ie n ts, and e q u ip
If you can’t purchase new eq uipm ent, then th in k about
m ent you need f o r p re p a ra tio n and th ro u g h o u t service,
re s tru c tu rin g th e menu to even o u t the w o rkloa d. If you
and g ro up ing like a c tiv itie s to g e th e r are all tech niq ue s
can't rem ove a menu item , the n in ve st in th e to o ls you
th a t can help you organize you r w o rk b e tte r. Poor place
need to p re ve n t a slow dow n du rin g service.
m ent o f large and sm all to o ls is a g re a t tim e w aster. Use
planning your career path W hether you are seeking an extern po sitio n or planning your career upon graduation, understanding the various
» Are you seeking a management training program, or a direct hire position?
areas w ith in the h o s p ita lity in d u stry is im p o rta n t when
» W hat is im portant to you— the cuisine, management
laying the fo u n d a tio n fo r your career path. S e ttin g both
style, geographic location, number o f hours required
sh o rt- and lo ng -te rm goals w ill help you to realize the ca
per day/w eek, or working fo r a prominent chef?
reer th a t you are seeking. Knowing yo u rse lf and recogniz ing your stre n g th s and weaknesses fa c to r in to th is equa tio n as well. As a s ta rt, here are some general questions to ask y o u rse lf as you begin to th in k about your career:
» Are medical benefits, stock options, vacation time, predictable schedule, or seasonal employment op tions prerequisites fo r your choice? » Are additional skill sets or fu rth e r education re
» W hat type of environm ent (corporate/business, restaurant group/com pany, chain restaurant, inde
quired to reach your long-term goals?
pendent restaurant, fine/u p scale/casu al dining) do
Rank th e answ ers to the se qu e stio n s in o rd e r o f im p o r
you see yourself in?
tance to you and keep th e m in m ind as you se t goals fo r
» Do you p refe r small or large volume?
you r career.
» Do you p refe r fro n t of the house or back of the house?
career opportunities for culinary professionals C ulinary p ro fe s s io n a ls are needed n o t ju s t in h o te l d in
s o p h is tic a tio n , and fin a n c ia l and q u a lity c o n tro l means
ing fa c ilitie s and tra d itio n a l re s ta u ra n ts b u t in a v a rie ty
th a t all s e ttin g s , fro m th e w h ite -ta b le c lo th re s ta u ra n t
o f s e ttin g s — pu blic and p riva te , c o n su m e r-o rie n te d
to th e fa s t-fo o d o u tle t, o ffe r in te re s tin g challenges.
and in s titu tio n a l. An increased em phasis on n u tritio n ,
Chapter 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE PR O F E S S IO N
Some exam ples o f care er pa ths th a t are available
generally adhere to a M onday through Friday schedule.
to you are lis te d below, along w ith some general pros
Many corp ora tions operate executive dining rooms. The
and cons. As you con sid er a care er path, keep g ro w th in
degree o f s im p lic ity or elegance demanded in a p a rticular
m in d— you m ay n o t be q u a lifie d f o r an exe cutive p o si
co rp ora tion determ ines w h at typ e o f foo d is o ffe re d , how
tio n im m e d ia te ly a fte r g ra du ation , b u t th o u g h tfu l pla n
it is prepared, and w h at s tyle o f service is appropriate.
ning can advance you r care er quickly. R esorts, hotels, and spas o fte n have a num ber o f
Ca te rin g companies o ffe r a w ide range o f p o s s ib ili tie s, fro m upscale event planning com panies to sm aller,
d iffe re n t dinin g fa c ilitie s , includ in g fin e -d in in g re s ta u
m ore casual menus. They p ro vid e a p a rtic u la r service,
rants, room service, c o ffe e shops, and banq ue t room s.
o fte n ta ilo re d to m ee t th e w ishes o f a special c lie n t fo r
The kitch e n s are large, and th e re w ill o fte n be separate
a p a rtic u la r event, such as a wedding, a c o c k ta il re ce p
butchering, catering, and p a stry kitchens on the prem ises.
tio n , or a g a lle ry opening. C a te rers may pro vid e o n -site
These e sta b lish m e n ts o fte n o ffe r a v a rie ty o f f r o n t- and
services (the c lie n t com es to th e cate re r's prem ises),
b a c k -o f-th e -h o u s e op tion s, upw ard and geographic m o
o ff- s ite services (the c a te re r com es to th e c lie n t’s
b ility , and a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and many
prem ises), o r bo th. The v a rie ty o f o p tio n s depends on
have m anagem ent tra in in g program s.
th e size o f th e com pany and w h e th e r the y service on- or
Independent restaurants , such as b istro s, w h ite ta b le c lo th e sta blishm en ts, and fa m ily -s ty le re s ta u rants, fe a tu re a fu ll menu, and the pa tro ns are served
o ff-p re m is e s events. Home meal re p la c e m e n t (ca rryo u t) fo o d s e rv ic e is g ro w in g in im p o rta n ce as m ore busy couples, single
by tra in e d w a it s ta ff. When seeking e m p lo ym e nt in th is
pro fe ssio n a ls, and fa m ilie s t r y to enjoy meals at home
realm, select a re s ta u ra n t based on cuisine type , chef,
w ith o u t having to spend tim e p re p a rin g them . These
and size. They are less like ly to o ffe r b e n e fits or a set
o p e ra tio n s prepare entrees, salads, side dishes, and
schedule.
d e sse rts th a t are packaged to be take n home. M any su
Bakeries and cafes o ffe r a sm a lle r e n viro n m e n t th a t may specialize in s p e c ific areas (breads, w e dd ing cakes, etc.). They may be less lik e ly to o ffe r b e n e fits . R e s ta u ra n t g ro u p s/c o m p a n ie s o fte n have m u ltip le concepts w ith in the group, and o fte n o ffe r the p o s s ib ility
p e rm a rk e ts now o ffe r th is service to th e ir custom ers. In sales, com pany size ranges fro m larger, broadsp e ctru m d is trib u to rs to sm aller, specialized boutiques. M any salespeople w o rk on com m ission, so wages can flu c tu a te fro m pay pe rio d to pay period.
o f a m anagem ent tra in in g program a n d /o r geographic m o b ility . M o s t have p a rtia l to fu ll b e n e fits packages. P riv a te clubs g e ne rally pro vid e som e s o rt o f fo o d service. This may be as sim ple as a sm all g rill fe a tu rin g sandw iches, o r it may be a co m p le te din in g room . The d iffe re n c e is th a t th e gu ests are paying m em bers, and th e fo o d costs are ty p ic a lly fig u re d d iffe re n tly than the y w ould be f o r a pu blic re sta u ra n t. Country club p o s itio n s m ay be seasonal, depending
A D V A N CE D O P P O R T U N I T I E S The fo llo w in g o p tio n s m ay re q u ire e ith e r fu rth e r edu catio n, s ig n ific a n t in d u s try experience, o r o th e r sk ill sets. M o s t o f the se a lte rn a tiv e o p tio n s pro vid e a m ore "n o rm a l” o r "s e t” w o rk schedule w ith a com prehensive b e n e fits package. TEACHING— On a high school/vocational level, a
on lo catio n. C o un try clubs can range fro m very upscale
bachelor’s degree plus state certification is required.
fa c ilitie s to local g o lf clubs. M any have s e t hours and
At the college/university level, a minimum of a bach
provide b e n e fits. You m ust be ve ry w illin g to accom m o
elor’s degree in addition to significant industry ex
date the m e m b e rs'w a n ts.
perience (ACF certification is a plus) is required for
W ith con tra ct foodservice companies, many jobs
hands-on courses. A minimum of a m aster’s degree in
would be considered in s titu tio n a l cate ring (used in
addition to industry experience is required to teach
schools, hospitals, colleges, airlines, and corre ction al
liberal arts or business courses.
in stitu tio n s). This o fte n demands a single menu and a cafe te ria where th e guests serve them selves, choosing fro m the o ffe re d foods. Menu selections are based on the needs o f the in stitu tio n 's guests, the o p era ting budget, and the ad m inistration's expectations. These settin gs ty p ic a lly o ffe r many fro n t- and back-of-the-house op tio n s as w ell as a com prehensive b e n e fits package, and
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
C O M M U N IC A T IO N S /M E D IA /M A R K E T IN G /W R IT IN G /FO O D S T Y LIN G — M ost of these options will require other education (a degree in marketing, communications, or journalism ) in addition to ex perience within the industry. Much of this work is freelance. An entrepreneurial mind is an asset.
RESEARCH AND D E V E L O P M E N T -C o v e rs a wide
The ROAST CHEF (rotisseur) is responsible fo r all
range of em ploym ent opportunities th at may re
roasted foods and related jus or other sauces.
quire other degrees, such as food science, chemis try, nutrition, or engineering, combined with indus try experience.
The GRILL CHEF (grillardin) is responsible fo r all grilled foods. This position may be combined with th a t of rotisseur.
A REAL C H A L L E N G E ENTREPRENEUR— This is probably the most d if ficu lt and most rewarding path, as you take all the
The FRY CHEF (friturier) is responsible fo r all fried foods. This position may be combined with the rotisseur position.
credit in good tim es and su ffer all the losses in hard
The VEGETABLE CHEF (entre metier) is responsible
tim es. A strong business mind and extensive plan
fo r hot appetizers and frequ en tly has responsibil
ning are required to be successful. Many businesses
ity fo r soups, vegetables, and pastas and other
do not turn a p ro fit fo r several years, so be ready to
starches. (In a full tradition al brigade system, soups
think long-term.
are prepared by the soup station or potager, and vegetables by the legumier.) This station may also
THE K I TCHEN B RI G A D E S Y S T E M
be responsible fo r egg dishes.
The brigade system was instituted by Escoffier to
The RO UNDSM AN (tournant) or swing cook works
streamline and simplify work in hotel kitchens. It served
as needed throughout the kitchen.
to eliminate the chaos and duplication of e ffo rt that could result when workers did not have clear-cut re sponsibilities. Under this system, each position has a station and defined responsibilities, outlined below. In smaller operations, the classic system is generally ab breviated and responsibilities are organized so as to make the best use of workspace and talents. A short
The COLD-FOODS CHEF (garde manger), also known as the PANTRY CHEF, is responsible for preparation of cold foods including salads, cold appetizers, pates, and the like. This is considered a separate category of kitchen work. The BUTCHER (boucher) is responsible fo r butch
age of skilled personnel has also made modifications in
ering meats, poultry, and occasionally fish. The
the brigade system necessary. The introduction of new
boucher may also be responsible fo r breading meat
equipment has helped to alleviate some of the problems
and fish items.
associated with smaller kitchen staffs. The chef is responsible fo r all kitchen operations, including ordering, supervision of all stations, and de velopment of menu items. He or she also may be known as the c h e f d e cuisine or executive chef. The sous c h e f is second in command, answers to the chef, may be re sponsible fo r scheduling, fills in for the chef, and assists the station chefs (or line cooks) as necessary. Small operations may not have a sous chef. The range of posi tions in a classic brigade also include the following: The SAUTE CHEF (saucier) is responsible fo r all sauteed item s and th eir sauces. This position is
The PASTRY CHEF (patissier) is responsible for baked items, pastries, and desserts. The pastry chef freq u en tly supervises a separate kitchen area or a separate shop in larger operations. This posi tion may be fu rth e r broken down into the following areas of specialization: CONFISEUR (prepares candies and petits fours), BOULANGER (prepares unsweetened doughs, as fo r breads and rolls), GLACIER (prepares frozen and cold desserts), and
o ften considered the most demanding, responsible,
DECORATEUR (prepares showpieces and special
and glamorous on the line.
cakes).
The FISH CHEF (poissonier) is responsible fo r fish
The EXPEDITER or ANNOUNCER (aboyeur) accepts
item s and th eir sauces, o ften including fish butch
orders from the dining room and relays them to
ering. This position is sometim es combined with the
the various station chefs. This individual is the last
saucier position.
person to see the plate before it leaves the kitchen. In some operations, this may be eith er the chef or sous chef.
ch a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
The CO M M UN ARD prepares the meal served to s ta ff at some point during the sh ift (also called the fam ily meal).
OTHER O P P O R T U N I T I E S In a d d itio n to th e kitch e n and dinin g room po sitio n s, a g ro w in g num ber o f less tra d itio n a l o p p o rtu n itie s exist,
The CO M M IS or apprentice works under a station
many o f which do n o t involve th e actu al p ro d u c tio n or
chef to learn how the station operates and its
service o f foo ds.
responsibilities.
THE D I NI NG ROOM B R I G A D E S Y S T E M The dining room , or fro n t-o f-th e -h o u s e , p o s itio n s also have an e sta b lish e d line o f a u th o rity .
FOOD AND BEVERAGE MANAGERS oversee all food and beverage outlets in hotels and other large estab lishments. CONSULTANTS and DESIGN SPECIALISTS will work with restaurant owners, often before the restaurant
The MATTRE D'HOTEL, known in Am erican service
is even open, to assist in developing a menu, designing
as the dining room manager, is the person who holds
the overall layout and ambience of the dining room, and
the most responsibility fo r the fro n t-o f-th e-h o u se
establishing work patterns for the kitchen.
operation. The maTtre d’hotel trains all service personnel, oversees wine selection, works with the chef to determ ine the menu, and organizes seating throughout service. The W INE STEWARD (chefde vin or sommelier) is responsible for all aspects of restaurant wine service, including purchasing wines, preparing a wine list, assisting guests in wine selection, and serving wine properly. The wine steward may also be responsible
W ELL-INFO RM ED SALESPEOPLE help chefs de term ine how best to m eet th eir needs fo r food and produce, introduce them to new products, and dem onstrate the proper use of new equipment. TEACHERS are essential to the g rea t number of cooking schools nationwide. M ost of these teachers are chefs who are sharing the b en efit of th eir experi ence with students.
for the service of liquors, beers, and other beverages.
FOOD WRITERS and CRITICS discuss food trends,
If there is no wine steward, these responsibilities are
restaurants, and chefs. It will always mean more, of
generally assumed by the maTtre d’hotel.
course, if the w riter is well versed in the culinary arts.
The HEAD WAITER (chefde salle) is generally in charge of the service fo r an entire dining room. Very often this position is combined with the position of either captain or maTtre d’hotel. The CAPTAIN (chef d'etage) deals most directly with the guests once they are seated. The captain explains the menu, answers any questions, and takes the order. The captain generally does any tableside
Some prominent members of the food media, such as James Beard, Craig Claiborne, and Julia Child, have been influential teachers and have w ritten landmark cookbooks in addition to contributing to newspapers and magazines and appearing on television. FOOD STYLISTS and PHOTOGRAPHERS work with a variety of publications, including magazines, books, catalogs, and promotional and advertising pieces.
food preparation. If th ere is no captain, these re
RESEARCH-AND-DEVELOPMENT KITCHENS employ
sponsibilities fall to the fro n t waiter.
a great many culinary professionals. These may be
The FRONT W AITER (chefde rang) ensures th at the table is properly set fo r each course, th at the food is properly delivered to the table, and th at the needs of the guests are promptly and courteously met. The BACK W AITER or BUSBOY (dem i-c hefde rang or commis de rang) is generally the firs t position assigned to new dining room workers. This person clears plates between courses, fills w ater glasses and bread baskets, and assists the fro n t w aiter a n d / or captain as needed.
run by food manufacturers who are developing new products or food lines, or by advisory boards hoping to promote their products. Test kitchens are also run by a variety of both trade and consumer publications. Challenges aside, th e fo o d s e rv ic e in d u s try is re w a rd ing and spontaneous. It req uire s stam ina, drive, and c re a tiv e in flue nce. Those who have m ade the g re a te s t im p ressio n know th a t v irtu e s such as open com m unica tio n , e ffic ie n t org an izatio n, p ro p e r m anagem ent, innova tiv e m arke ting , and th o ro u g h a cco un ting are necessary to prosper. In due tim e , your know ledge and experience w ill gain w o rth y re co g n itio n .
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the changing industry T Y P E S OF A G RI CU L T UR E
SU STAIN ABILITY
Today chefs are more aware of the systems in place for
One current focus is on sustainability. In the world of
growing and producing the food we eat. It is im portant
food, "sustainability" refers to healthy ways of raising,
to be educated not only to answer questions th a t may
growing, and harvesting food and ensuring th at the land
arise from customers and diners, but also to be able to
can support both the grower and the crop into the future.
make educated choices fo r ourselves.
It is not simply healthy fo r consumers, but for plants, ani
Agriculture is a system involving cultivating the soil,
mals, and the environment as well. Sustainable farming
producing crops, and raising livestock. There are d iffe r
does not harm the environment through the use of harm
ent ways in which a farm er can approach this system; a
ful pesticides or genetically modified organisms (GMOs),
few options follow:
or through overfarming. Sustainable farms also take care of their workers and are humane toward animals;
conventional agriculture
sustainable agriculture respects the farmers by paying
An industrialized agricultural system characterized by
them a fair wage. Sustainability is meant to support and
» mechanization » monocultures (less biodiversity)
improve the community, especially the rural communities where farms are based. Consumers, chefs, and restaurateurs are all becom
» synthetic inputs such as chemical fe rtilize rs and pesticides » maximizing productivity and p ro fita b ility
organic agriculture Agriculture involving
ing increasingly aware of the positive effe cts of sustain ability and how to live a sustainable lifestyle. A restau rant can support sustainability in a number of ways: 1. BUY LOCALLY. This allows the chef to know the qual ity and conditions under which the food they are using is raised, grown, or harvested. Buying locally increases
» renewable resources and biological cycles, such as composting
awareness of seasonality, and supports the local economy— items that have traveled far have often
» no genetically m odified organisms
lost quality and freshness.This concept also appeals
» no synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fe rtilize rs
to customers who are becoming more aware of the
» no synthetic feeds, growth hormones, or antibiotics » heightened compassion fo r animal w elfare
importance of sustainability and use of local products. 2. USE HEIRLOOM PRODUCTS. Heirloom products are d ifferen t from most available commercially. An "heir
biodynamic agriculture
loom plant” is defined as any garden plant that has
Beyond organic, biodynamic agriculture considers the:
been passed down within a food family. Some heir
» dynamic, metaphysical, and spiritual aspects of the farm
loom seeds are from plants
50 to 100 years old (mak
ing them entirely free of GMOs), and have a unique genetic composition compared with their commercial
» balance between physical and nonphysical realms
counterparts. They may provide new textures, colors,
» cosmic events, such as planting according to the
and flavors th at chefs can incorporate into any menu.
phases of the moon
The food industry is intrinsically woven into the fab
Heirloom products are » open-pollinated, yielding like offspring
ric o f culture. The industry and every profession within
» a distinct variety of plant
it reflect cultural and societal changes, some superficial
» generally not comm ercially grown
while others are foundational. These reflections can be seen in almost every aspect of the industry, such as how
» a product of tradition al methods
food is prepared, w hat kinds and types of food are eaten
» usually grown on a small scale
more readily, and menu and recipe development.
» o ften tied to a particular region
» o ften has been in use fo r 40 to 50 years or more
ch a p te r 1 » IN T R O D U C T I O N TO THE P R O F ES SIO N
3. BUILD A SUSTAINABLE RESTAURANT. Chefs and
meals. By ta k in g a look a t som e o f th e w o rld ’s m ajor re
restaurateurs can use the concepts of sustainability
ligions, it is easy to see th e ir in flue nce on cuisine. E dicts
in other ways in the restaurant— going far beyond
fa v o rin g or p ro h ib itin g ce rta in foo ds, as w e ll as a calen
simply the food used on the menu. Using solar or wind
dar o f fe a s tin g , fa s tin g , and ce le b ra tin g ritu a ls, are o f
power, for example, decreases energy costs and the
te n w idesp rea d enough in an area to co lo r the way th a t a
use of fossil fuels. The chef can implement a recycling
cuisine evolves and w h a t is w id e ly held to be au then tic.
program that includes not only glass, plastic, or paper
For exam ple, w ith its p ro s c rip tio n against e a tin g m eat
but also waste oil that could be converted into biofuel.
f o r ce rta in castes, H induism has c o n trib u te d to a cuisine
Check for local and national resources to learn about
w ith a s tro n g tra d itio n o f m ea tless dishes.
the many ways to make a restaurant more sustain able.
There has p ro b a b ly never been a tim e when th e m i g ra tio n o f fo o d s fro m one p a rt o f the w o rld to an othe r has n o t been a fa c to r in a developing cuisine. W hile
G L O B A L I Z A T I O N OF F LA VOR S A n o th e r ever-changing asp ect o f th e fo o d in d u s try since the beginning o f tim e is th e glo b a l sharing and blending o f cuisines. Cuisine, like any cu ltu ra l ele m e n t o f s o cie ty, has geographic, religiou s, and m any o th e r in flue nces th a t shape its de velopm ent. C onversely, a cu isin e — once de velope d— e xe rts in flue nce on th e c u ltu re o f its land o f origin as w ell as on any o u tsid e cu ltu re s w ith which it may come in c o n ta ct. E lem ents o f th e cuisine may shape events o r ce le b ra tio n s th a t becom e cu ltu ra l norm s, or may be a ssim ila te d in to an o th e r cu ltu re , becom e in tr in sic to it, and the n w o rk to shape or drive a g ric u ltu ra l de mands and pra ctices. In th is co n te xt, any meal is m ore than m ere s u s te nance. For to d a y ’s ch e f o r s tu d e n t o f th e culina ry arts, th is in fo rm a tio n can be o f value; id e n tify in g basic fo o d s and p re p a ra tio n tech niq ue s th a t tra n s la te across cui sines, cultu res, and c o n tin e n ts is an im p o rta n t p a rt o f the culina ry p ro fe ssio n . Any cuisine is a re fle c tio n o f m ore than ju s t a c o lle c tio n o f in g re d ie n ts, coo kin g u te n sils, and dishes fro m a geographic lo catio n. These e le m ents are u n d o u b te d ly c ritic a l to e sta b lish in g a culinary id e n tity . B ut th e y are not, all on th e ir own, a cuisine. Shared tra d itio n s and b e lie fs also give a cuisine a p a rtic u la r id e n tity . A cu ltu ra l cuisine is an im p o rta n t e le m ent in de veloping and m a in ta in in g a g ro u p ’s id e n tity . And perhaps m o st re le va n t fro m today's pe rspe ctive, a system o f governance and tra d e th a t encourages the "m igration" o f fo o d s and dishes fro m one place to another s tro n g ly in flue nces cuisine. The presence or absence o f a sho reline has a tre m e n d o u s im p a ct on a developing coo kin g s tyle . C lim ate and soil co m p o sitio n , as w e ll as fa rm in g techniques, also have a s tro n g influence. A cuisine also gives us a way to express and e s ta b lish custo m s fo r m eals (w h at is eaten, when, and w ith whom), fro m sim p le m eals to ce le b ra tio n s and ritu a l
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the se exchanges are m ore rapid and fre q u e n t in m odern tim e s, th e y have always been ap pa rent. S om etim es the se exchanges had a g re a t deal to do w ith th e con q u e st o f lands by an invading fo rce . O th er tim e s, tra d e and its asso cia te d a c tiv itie s played a m ajor role. W h e th e r benign o r aggressive, a system o f culina ry exchange is p a rt o f any cuisine's s to ry . New in g re d ie n ts fin d th e ir w ay in to tra d itio n a l dishes. O ver tim e , the new in g re d ie n t becom es so fir m ly entrenched, we may even fo rg e t th a t th e dish w ould n o t be recognized as a u th e n tic. A cle ar exam ple o f th is can be seen w ith the a d o p tio n o f m any in g re d ie n ts th a t w ere na tive to the A m ericas, such as th e to m a to . Today, who could im agine Ita lia n cuisine w ith o u t th e to m a to ? It is so em bedded in th e c o u n try ’s cuisine th a t anyone could easily m istake Ita ly as its land o f origin. Techniques are also a w indow in to the cooking o f a spe cific cuisine. As you m ight expect, a technique can have a d iffe re n t name as you tra ve l fro m one region to another. C ertain cooking s tyles are popular in a given region o f the w orld because they are suited to the life s ty le and living conditions; oth ers may remain v irtu a lly unknown. The stu d y o f any single cuisine is a m u ltifa c e te d un de rta king . C uisines have never developed in a vacuum. As you probe m ore deeply in to th e h is to ric a l origins o f th e recipe in your hand tod ay, you may fin d in g re d i ents th a t tra v e le d fro m E ast to W est or fro m th e Old W orld to th e New W orld in place o f an e a rlie r op tion . T ra d itio n a l m etho ds o f cooking a dish may have changed w ith th e tim e s o r to m ee t th e special challenges o f coo kin g f o r large groups o r in a re s ta u ra n t s e ttin g . Know ing th e classic tech niq ue s and cuisine o f a cul tu re (w h e th e r France, India, o r beyond) is always h e lp fu l when you choose to m od ern ize o r change a tra d itio n a l recipe. Read cookbooks, v is it re s ta u ra n ts and o th e r cou ntrie s, and keep an open m ind in o rd e r to experience a w ide v a rie ty o f w o rld cuisines.
menus and recipes Menus are used in the dining room to give both wait s ta ff arid guests important information about what the establishment offers. Recipes give detailed instructions to aid kitchen s ta ff in producing tpenu items. More than that, carefully designed menus and comprehensive recipes can help Jmi
the professional chef streamline kitchen operatiorwand control costs.
CHAPTER
2
menus A menu is a p o w e rfu l to o l: It is a m a rk e tin g and m erchan
com p on ents o r to p la te and garnish it. The p re p a ra tio n
dising vehicle. It e sta b lish e s and re in fo rc e s th e to ta l
o f c e rta in garnishes, side dishes, sauces, o r m arinades
re s ta u ra n t con cep t fro m th e s ty le o f china and fla tw a re
may be organized so th a t all com p on ents o f a recipe are
to s t a f f tra in in g needs. It can a ssist th e ch e f in o rg a
p re pa red by th e ch e f o r cook fo r th a t sta tio n , o r it may
nizing th e day's w o rk, o rd e rin g fo o d , red ucing w aste,
be th a t prep cooks pre pa re som e o f the com ponents.
and increasing p ro fits . The w ay a menu is developed or adapted, as w ell as th e w ay menu prices are esta blished ,
A la c a rte and ba nq ue t menus call fo r c e rta in typ e s o f advance w o rk to help th e ch e f ad ju st to th e w o rkflo w .
are re fle c tio n s o f how w e ll th e o p era tion's con cep t or
Even if a w ritte n menu is n o t p ro vid ed to th e guest,
business plan has been de fine d. S om e tim es th e menu
some fo rm o f menu lis t in th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n is
evolves as th e business plan is re fin e d . In o th e r scenar
e sse n tia l to th e kitchen's sm oo th op e ra tio n . C onsult
ios, the con cep t comes f ir s t and th e menu com es later.
th e menu, d e te rm in e w hich ite m s you and each s ta ff
In s till oth ers, th e menu may be th e g u id in g p rin cip le
m em ber are resp on sible fo r, and the n read the recipes
th a t gives a p a rtic u la r stam p to th e way th e re s ta u ra n t
fo r th o se ite m s c a re fu lly so th a t you understand all the
con cep t evolves.
ta sks th a t m ust be p e rfo rm e d in advance o f service, as
Menus give th e kitch e n s t a f f v ita l in fo rm a tio n such as whose re s p o n s ib ility it is to prepare th e dish's
w e ll as a t th e tim e o f p la tin g and serving the fo o d . In th is way, service should proceed w ith o u t d iffic u lty .
recipes A recipe is a w r itte n reco rd o f th e in g re d ie n ts and
ME A S UR I NG INGREDI ENTS ACCURATELY
p re p a ra tio n ste p s needed to make a p a rtic u la r dish. The fo rm a recipe ta ke s depends on who w ill u ltim a te ly use th e recipe and th e m edium in w hich th e recipe w ill be presented. B efo re s ta rtin g to cook fro m any recipe, the f ir s t ste p is always to read throu gh th e recipe in its e n tire ty to gain an un de rsta nd ing o f e xa ctly w h a t is required. This ste p w ill a le rt you to any p o te n tia l surp rises the recipe m ig h t contain, such as re q u irin g an unusual piece o f eq uipm en t or an ove rnight coo lin g period. This is also the p o in t at which you m ust decide if any m o d ific a tio n s to the recipe are in order. Perhaps th e recipe makes only te n p o rtio n s and you w a n t to make f if t y , o r vice versa. You w ill have to co n ve rt th e recipe (see Using a Recipe C onversion F actor (RCF) to C onvert Recipe Y ields, page 16). W hile increasing o r d ecreasing the yield, you may discover th a t you need to make e q uipm en t m o d ific a tio n s as w ell to accom m odate th e new volum e o f foo d. Or you m ig h t decide th a t you w a n t to o m it, add, or s u b s titu te an in gre die nt. A ll o f these decisions should be m ade b e fore any in g re d ie n t p re p a ra tio n o r cooking begins. Once you have read th ro u g h and evaluated or m o d i fie d th e recipe, it is tim e to g e t your m ise en place t o gether. In many recipes, th e in g re d ie n t lis t w ill in d ica te how the in g re d ie n t should be p re pa red (e.g., p a rb o ilin g or c u ttin g in to pieces o f a ce rta in size) b e fo re th e actual cooking o r assem bling begins.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
A ccura te m easurem ents are crucial to recipes. In o rd e r to keep co sts in line and ensure con sisten cy o f qu al ity and q u a n tity , in g re d ie n ts and p o rtio n sizes m ust be m easured c o rre c tly each tim e a recipe is made. In g re d ie n ts are purchased and used a c c o rd in g to one o f th re e m easuring conventions: count, volum e, or w e igh t. They m ay be purchased acco rding to one system and m easured f o r use in a recipe a c c o rd in g to another. C ount is a m ea sure m ent o f w hole ite m s as one w ould purchase them . The te rm s each, bunch, and dozen all in d ica te u n its o f cou nt measure. If the in dividu al ite m has been processed, graded, o r packaged according to e sta b lish e d stan dard s, co u n t can be a useful, accurate w ay to m easure in g re d ie n ts. It is less accurate fo r in g re d ie n ts re q u irin g som e advance p re p a ra tio n or w ith o u t any e sta b lish e d stan dard s f o r purchasing. G arlic cloves illu s tra te th e p o in t w ell. If a recipe calls fo r tw o ga rlic cloves, th e in te n s ity o f g a rlic in th e dish w ill change depending upon w h e th e r th e cloves you use are large or sm all. Volume is a m easurem ent o f the space occupied by a solid, liquid, o r gas. The te rm s teaspoon (tsp), tablespoon (tbsp), flu id ounce (fl oz), cup, p in t (pt), q u a rt (qt), gallon (gal), m illilite r (mL), and lite r (L) all indicate units o f volume measure. Graduated containers (measuring cups) and
utensils for which the volume is known (such as a 2-ounce
readily accessible to all s ta ff members. Instruct kitchen
ladle or a teaspoon) are used to measure volume.
s ta ff to follow standardized recipes to the letter unless
Volume measurements are best suited to liquids,
instructed otherwise, and encourage service s ta ff to
though they are also used for solids, especially spices,
re fer to standardized recipes when a question arises
in small amounts. Tools used fo r measuring volume are
about ingredients or preparation methods.
not always as precise as necessary, especially if you
As you prepare a standardized recipe, be as precise
must often increase or decrease a recipe. Volume mea
and consistent as you can. Include as many of the follow
suring tools don't conform to any regulated standards.
ing elements as possible:
Therefore, the amount of an ingredient measured with
» Name/title of the food item or dish
one set of spoons, cups, or pitchers could be quite d if feren t from the amount measured with another set. W eight is a measurement of the mass or heaviness of a solid, liquid, or gas. The term s ounce (oz), pound (lb), g ra m (g), and k ilo g ra m (kg) all indicate units of weight measure. Scales are used to measure weight, and they must m eet specific standards fo r accuracy. In profes
» Yield inform ation, expressed as one or more of the following: to ta l weight, to ta l volume, to ta l number of portions » Portion inform ation fo r each serving, expressed as one or more of the following: a specific number of item s (count), volume, weight
sional kitchens, weight is usually the preferred type of measurement because it is easier to attain accuracy with weight than it is with volume.
ST A ND A RD I Z E D RECIPES The recipes used in each professional kitchen are known as s ta n d a rd iz e d recipes. Unlike published recipes, standardized recipes are tailored to suit the needs of an
» Ingredient names, expressed in appropriate detail, specifying variety or brand as necessary » Ingredient measures, expressed as one or more of the following: count, volume, weight » Ingredient preparation instructions, sometimes included in the ingredient name, sometim es ex pressed in the method its e lf as a step
individual kitchen. Preparing w ell-w ritten and accurate standardized recipes is a big part of the professional chef's work in all foodservice settings, as they include much more than just ingredient names and preparation steps. Standardized recipes establish to tal yields, por tion sizes, holding and serving practices, and plating information, and they set standards fo r cooking te m
» Equipment inform ation fo r preparation, cooking, storing, holding, and serving » Preparation steps detailing mise en place, cooking methods, and tem peratures fo r safe food handling (see Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points [HACCP], page 36)
peratures and times. These standards help to ensure consistent quality and quantity, perm it chefs to monitor
» Service inform ation, describing how to finish and
the efficiency of their work, and reduce costs by elim i
plate a dish, add side dishes, sauces, and garnishes,
nating waste.
if any, and listing the proper service tem peratures
They also allow the w ait s ta ff to become fam iliar with a dish so they can answer guests' questions accu rately and honestly. For example, the type of oil used in
» Holding and reheating inform ation, describing pro cedures, equipment, tim es, and tem peratures for safe storage
a dish may m a tter very much to a guest if it is an oil to which he or she has an allergy. Standardized recipes can be recorded by hand, or
» Critical control points (CCPs) at appropriate stages in the recipe to indicate tem peratures and tim es
electronically using a recipe management program or
fo r safe food-handling procedures during storage,
other computerized database. They should be recorded
preparation, holding, and reheating
in a consistent, clear, easy-to-follow form and should be
c h a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
recipe calculations O fte n you w ill need to m o d ify a recipe. S om e tim es a re c
sim p ly m u ltip ly 5 chicken b re a sts by 10; no fu rth e r
ipe m ust be increased or decreased. You may be a d a p t
a d ju stm e n ts are necessary. O th e r in g re d ie n ts, such as
ing a recipe fro m a n o th e r source in to a stan dard ized
thicke ne rs, a ro m atics, seasonings, and leavenings, may
fo rm a t, o r you may be a d ju s tin g a sta n d a rd ize d recipe
no t m u ltip ly as sim ply, however. If a soup to serve fo u r
f o r a special event such as a banquet or a re ce p tio n . You
req uire s 2 ta b le sp o o n s o f flo u r to make a roux, it is not
may need to co n ve rt fro m volum e m easures to w eight,
ne cessa rily tru e th a t you w ill need 20 tab lesp oo ns (1V4
o r fro m m e tric m easurem ents to th e U.S. system . You
cups) o f flo u r to th icke n th e same soup when you p re
w ill also need to be able to tra n s la te be tw ee n purchase
pare it f o r fo rty . The only w ay to be sure is to te s t the
u n its and recipe m easurem ents. In som e circum stances,
new recipe and ad ju st it u n til you are s a tis fie d w ith the
you may be called upon to increase or decrease th e sug
re s u lt— and th e n be sure to reco rd th e measure!
g e sted p o rtio n size f o r a recipe. Or you may w a n t to de te rm in e how much th e fo o d in a p a rtic u la r recipe costs.
O th e r co n sid e ra tio n s when c o n ve rtin g recipe yie lds include th e e q u ip m e n t you have to w o rk w ith , the p ro d u ctio n issues you face, and the s k ill level o f your s ta ff.
USING A RECIPE CONVERSION FACTOR (RCF) TO CONVERTRECIPE YIELDS To ad ju st th e yie ld o f a recipe to make e ith e r m ore o r less, you need to d e te rm in e th e recipe conversion fa c to r. Once you know th a t fa c to r, you f ir s t m u ltip ly all the in g re d ie n t am ounts by it. Then you co n v e rt the new m easurem ents in to a p p ro p ria te recipe u n its fo r you r kitche n. This may req uire c o n v e rtin g ite m s lis te d o rig in a lly as a cou nt in to a w e ig h t o r a volum e, o r ro u n d ing m easurem ents in to reasonable q u a n titie s . In some cases you w ill have to make a ju d g m e n t call a b o u t tho se
R e w rite th e ste p s to s u it your e s ta b lis h m e n t at th is po in t. It is im p o rta n t to do th is now, so you can uncover any fu rth e r changes to th e in g re d ie n ts o r m ethods th a t th e new y ie ld m ig h t fo rce . For instance, a soup to serve fo u r w ould be made in a sm all po t, b u t a soup f o r fo r ty req uire s a la rg e r coo kin g vessel. However, using a la rge r vessel m ig h t re s u lt in a higher ra te o f e va po ration , so you may fin d th a t you need to cover the soup as it cooks o r increase th e liquid to o ffs e t th e evaporation.
CONVERTING PORTION SIZES
in g re d ie n ts th a t do n o t scale up o r down e xa ctly, such as
S om e tim es it w ill happen th a t you also need to m o d ify
spices, salt, and thicke ne rs.
the p o rtio n size o f a recipe. For instance, say you have a
Desired yield Origtnal yield
_ . . = Recipe Conversion Factor (RCF)
soup recipe th a t makes fo u r 8-ounce p o rtio n s, b u t you need to make enough to have fo r t y 6-ounce p o rtio n s. To make th e conversion:
NOTE: The de sire d yie ld and th e o rig in a l yie ld m ust be expressed in th e same w ay b e fo re you can use the fo rm u la . If your o rig in a l recipe says it makes fiv e p o r tio n s, f o r exam ple, b u t does n o t lis t th e am o un t o f each p o rtio n , you may need to te s t th e recipe to de te rm in e w h a t size p o rtio n it a c tu a lly makes if you w ish to change p o rtio n size as w ell. S im ila rly, if th e o rig in a l recipe lis ts
Determ ine the to tal original yield and the to tal de sired yield of the recipe. Number of portions x Portion size = Total yield EXAMPLE: 4 x 8 fl oz = 32 fl oz (to ta l original yield)
the yie ld in flu id ounces and you w a n t to make 3 quarts, you need to co n v e rt q u a rts in to flu id ounces b e fo re you
40 x 6 fl oz = 2 4 0 fl oz (to ta l desired yield)
can d e te rm in e the recipe conversion fa c to r. The new in g re d ie n t am ounts usually need som e ad d itio n a l fin e -tu n in g . You may need to round th e re s u lt or co n ve rt it to th e m o s t lo gica l u n it o f m easure. For some in gre die nts, a s tra ig h tfo rw a rd increase o r decrease is all th a t is needed. For exam ple, to increase a recipe fo r chicken b re a sts fro m fiv e servings to f if t y , you w ould
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
2 . Determ ine the recipe conversion factor and modify the recipe as described above. EXAMPLE:
^
° Z = 7.5 (Recipe Conversion Factor)
Confusion often arises between weight and volume measures when ounces are the unit of measure. It is im portant to remember th at weight is measured in ounces, but volume is measured in flu id ounces. A standard volume measuring cup is equal to 8 fluid ounces, but the contents of the cup may not always weigh 8 ounces. One cup (8 fluid ounces) of cornflakes weighs only 1 ounce, but one cup (8 fluid ounces) of peanut butter weighs 9 ounces. W ater is the only substance fo r which it can be safely assumed th at 1 fluid ounce equals 1 ounce. For all other ingredients, when the amount is expressed in ounces, weigh it; when the amount is expressed in fluid ounces, measure it with an accurate liquid (or volume) measuring tool.
CONVERTING VOLUME MEASURES TO WEIGHT
CONVERTING BETWEEN U.S. AND METRIC MEASUREMENT SYSTEMS The m etric system, used throughout most of the world, is a decimal system, meaning th at it is based on m ulti ples o f 10. The gram is the basic unit of weight, the liter is the basic unit of volume, and the m eter is the basic unit o f length. Prefixes added to the basic units indicate larger or smaller units. For instance, a kilogram is 1 0 0 0 grams, a m illiliter is Viooo liter, and a centim eter is Vwo meter. The U.S. system, fam iliar to most Americans, uses ounces and pounds to measure weight, and teaspoons, tablespoons, fluid ounces, cups, pints, quarts, and gal lons to measure volume. Unlike the metric system, the U.S. system is not based on multiples of a particular number, so it is not as simple to increase or decrease quantities. Instead, either the equivalencies of the d if
You can convert a volume measure into a weight if you
feren t units of measure must be memorized or a chart
know how much 1 cup of an ingredient (prepared as
must be kept handy (see page 1166).
required by the recipe) weighs. This inform ation is avail
M ost modern measuring equipment is capable of
able in a number of charts or ingredient databases. (See
measuring in both U.S. and metric units. If, however, a
Weights and Measures Equivalents, page 11 66 .) You can
recipe is w ritten in a system of measurement for which
also calculate and record the inform ation yourself as
you do not have the proper measuring equipment, you
follows:
will need to convert to the other system.
1. Prepare the ingredient as directed by the recipe— s ift flour, chop nuts, mince garlic, grate cheeses, and so fo rth . 2 . Set the measuring device on the scale and reset the scale to zero (known as tore). 3 . Fill the measuring device correctly. For liquids, use graduated measuring cups or pitchers and fill
CALCULATING AS-PURCHASED COST (APC) M ost food items purchased from suppliers are packed and priced by wholesale bulk sizes such as by the crate, case, bag, carton, and so on. Yet in kitchen production, the packed amount is not always used for the same pur pose and may often be broken down and used fo r several
to the desired level. To be sure th at you have mea
items. Therefore, in order to allocate the proper prices
sured accurately, bend down until the level mark
to each recipe, it is necessary to convert purchase pack
on the measure is at your eye level. The measuring
prices to unit prices, which are expressed as price per
utensil must be sitting on a level surface fo r an ac
pound, each, by the dozen, by the quart, and the like.
curate measurem ent. Use nested measuring tools
If you know the cost of a pack with many units, calcu
fo r dry ingredients measured by volume. O verfill
late the cost per unit by dividing the as-purchased cost
the measure, then scrape away the excess as you
of the pack by the number of units in the pack.
level o ff the measure. 4 . Return the filled measuring tool to the scale and record the weight in either grams or ounces on your standardized recipe.
APC ADr .. -------------------------- = APC per unit Number of units If you know the unit price of an item, you can d eter mine the to tal cost by multiplying the as-purchased cost (APC) per unit by the number of units. APC per unit x Number of units = Total APC
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
CALCULATING THE YI ELD OF FRESH FRUITS
CAL CUL ATI NG THE AS - P U RC H AS ED
AND VEGETABLES and D et e r m i n i n g Yi eld
Q U A N T I T Y (APQ) Using Yield Percent
Per cent
Because m any recipes assume th e in g re d ie n ts lis te d are
For m any fo o d item s, trim m in g is re q u ire d b e fo re th e
ready to cook, it is necessary to con sid er th e trim loss
ite m s are a ctu a lly used. In o rd e r to d e te rm in e an ac
when purchasing item s. In th is case, th e edible p o rtio n
cura te c o s t f o r the se item s, th e trim loss m u st be taken
q u a n tity m ust be c o n ve rte d to the as-purchased quan
in to account. From th is in fo rm a tio n , th e yie ld pe rce n t
t it y th a t when trim m e d w ill give the desired edible p o r
w ill be im p o rta n t in d e te rm in in g th e q u a n tity th a t you
tio n q u a n tity . The yie ld p e rce n t is used as a to o l when
need to order.
ord erin g.
F irst, reco rd th e as-purchased q u a n tity (APQ) fro m th e invoice, o r w eigh th e ite m b e fo re trim m in g or cu ttin g .
EPQ
= APQ
Yield percent Exam ple: A recipe req uire s 20 pounds o f cleaned
EXAMPLE:
shredded cabbage. The yie ld p e rce n t f o r cabbage is 79
APQ = 5 lb ( = 8 0 oz) carrots
pe rcen t. When th e 20 pounds is d ivid e d by 7 9 pe rce n t
Trim th e ite m and c u t as desired, saving trim and ed ib le p o rtio n q u a n tity in sep ara te con tain ers. W eigh each se p a ra te ly and reco rd th e ir w e ig h ts on a co s tin g fo rm :
(0.79), th e re s u lt equals 2 5 .3 pounds, w hich w ill be the m inim um am ount to purchase. G enerally, th e as-purchased q u a n tity o b tain ed by th is m ethod is rounded up, since the yie ld pe rce n t is
As-Purchased Q uantity (APQ) - Trim loss = Edible
an e stim a te . Some che fs increase th e fig u re by an ad
Portion Q uantity (EPQ)
d itio n a l 10 p e rce n t to account f o r human e rro r as well.
EXAMPLE:
M any processed o r re fin e d fo o d s have a 10 0 pe rce n t
It should be k e p t in m ind th a t n o t all fo o d s have a loss.
8 0 oz carrots (APQ) - 8.8 oz carrot trim = 7 1 .2 oz
yie ld, such as sugar, flo u r, or d rie d spices. O th er fo o d s have a yie ld p e rce n t th a t depends on how the y are
sliced carrots
served. If, fo r exam ple, the in g re d ie n t is to be served by N ext, d ivid e the EPQ by th e APQ:
th e piece (h a lf a cantaloupe), o r if a recipe calls f o r it by co u n t (15 stra w b e rrie s), th e yie ld p e rc e n t is n o t co n sid
Edible Portion Q uantity _ y ie ld percent As-Purchased Q uantity
ered; th e c o rre c t num ber o f ite m s m ust be purchased in o rd e r to cre a te th e c o rre c t num ber o f servings. However, if you are m aking a f r u it salad and you know
EXAMPLE:
you need 2 ounces o f cubed m elon and 1 ounce o f sliced 71 .2 oz sliced carrots (EPQ) _
q
gg
8 0 oz carrots (APQ)
s tra w b e rrie s per serving, you m ust con sid er th e yield p e rce n t when ord erin g.
To convert the decimal to a percent, m ultiply by
CAL CUL ATI NG EDIBLE PORTION QU AN TI TY
100: Yield percent = 8 9 %
(EPQ) Using Yi eld Percent
NOTE: For m ore in fo rm a tio n on any o f the above
S om e tim es it is necessary f o r you to de te rm in e how
culina ry m ath to p ics, re fe r to M a t h f o r the Profe ssio n al
m any p o rtio n s can be o b ta in e d fro m raw p ro d u ct. For
Kitchen by Laura Dreesen, M ichael N othnagel, and Susan
exam ple, if you have a case o f fre s h green beans th a t
W ysocki.
w eighs 20 pounds and you need to know how many 4-ounce servings are in th e case, w h a t you need to do f ir s t is d e te rm in e th e yie ld p e rce n t f o r green beans, e ith e r by re fe rrin g to a lis t o f yie ld pe rce n t values or by p e rfo rm in g a yie ld te s t. Once you know th e yield pe rcen t, you can com p ute th e w e ig h t o f th e green beans a fte r trim m in g .
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
EXAMPLE:
APQ x Yield percent = EPQ
4 oz tourneed carrots (EPQ) x S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed EXAMPLE:
carrots (EPC) = $ 0 ,5 6 4 per serving (to ta l cost)
2 0 lb green beans (APQ) x 0 .8 8 (Yield percent) = 17.6 lb green beans (EPQ)
CAL CUL AT I NG THE VALUE OF
The edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (EPQ) w ould be 17.6 pounds. The second ste p w ould be to com p ute how many 4-ounce servings th e re are in 17.6 pounds. If necessary, c o n ve rt th e p o rtio n size (here, 4 ounces) to th e same u n it o f m easure as th e edib le p o rtio n q u a n tity (here, 1 pound). There are 16 ounces in 1 pound; 1 p o rtio n is equal to V\ (or 0.25) pound. EPQ
U SABLE TRI M O ften , som e o f th e trim m in g s fro m a fo o d may be used to pre pa re o th e r fo o d s. For exam ple, i f you have to u rn e e d a c a rro t, ra th e r than c u ttin g it in to dice or rounds, you can use th e trim to prepare a soup, puree, or o th e r dish. U sing th e in fo rm a tio n fro m your y ie ld te s t, you can calcula te th e value o f th e trim . F irst, de term in e
= Number of servings
Portion size
th e use f o r th e trim , the n fin d th e co st per u n it and yield p e rc e n t f o r th a t in g re d ie n t, as if you had to buy it to pre pa re th e dish. For instance, if you use th e trim fro m c a rro t to u rn e e s to pre pa re a soup, th e fo o d cost fo r
EXAMPLE:
th e c a rro t trim is th e same as f o r a c a rro t th a t has been 17.6 lb green beans (EPQ) . ----------- ® 5 = 70 .4 servings 0.25 lb serving size
trim m e d and chopped. EXAMPLE:
You w ould be able to o b ta in seve nty fu ll servings fro m th e case o f green beans. You should round down any p a rtia l num ber o f p o rtio n s since it w ould n o t be plau sible to serve a p a rtia l p o rtio n to a guest.
SO.1 0 6 (As-purchased cost of carrots per ounce) _ S 0.1 19 (value of 0 .8 9 (Yield percent fo r chopped carrots)
usable carrot trim fo r soup per ounce)
CALCULATI NG EDIBLE PORTION COST As discussed earlier, recipes o fte n assume in g re d ie n ts are ready to cook, so when it com es to co s tin g a recipe, the edible p o rtio n co st (EPC) per u n it can be calcula ted fro m th e as-purchased co s t (APC) pe r unit, as long as the edible p o rtio n is expressed in th e same u n it o f m ea sure as th e c o s t unit. APC
Some p ro d u c ts produce trim th a t can be used in a v a rie ty o f ways. For exam ple, a s trip loin produces trim m in g s th a t can be used in several recipes. The chef may use som e o f th e trim to prepare a c la rific a tio n th a t m ig h t o th e rw is e re q u ire ground m eat, and m ore o f the trim to make a fillin g f o r fa jita s . F inding a d d itio n a l uses f o r trim reduces co sts and helps to e lim in a te w aste.
: EPC
Yield percent
EXAMPLE: S 0 .1 0 6 /o z carrots (APC) 0.7 5 (Yield % fo r
= S 0 .1 4 1 /o z tourneed carrots (EPC)
tourneed carrots)
EPQ x EPC = Total cost
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
using recipes effectively In th e p ro fe s s io n a l kitche n, a recipe can be used to
a w hole b e e f te n d e rlo in and how much you are a ctu a lly
im prove e ffic ie n c y and o rg a n iza tio n and to increase
paying per pound f o r th e trim m e d m eat you serve, you
p ro fits . When you know th e a p p ro xim a te yie ld pe rce n t
can be m ore e ffe c tiv e a t reducing loss and decreas
f o r onions and ca rro ts, you can g e t th e rig h t am o un t fo r
ing th e o p e ra tio n ’s overall fo o d costs. Learning to read
a recipe in a single v is it to th e w a lk-in . If you un derstand
recipes c a re fu lly and using the m m ore p ro d u c tiv e ly is an
th e d iffe re n c e be tw ee n th e price you paid per pound fo r
im p o rta n t ste p in de veloping you r p ro fe ssio n a l skills.
the butchers yield test The purpose of a butcher’s yield test is to find the accu
GENERAL PROCEDURES
rate costs of fabricated meats, fish, and poultry. This is
Select the item to be tested and record the as-purchased
done to determine the amount of usable meat and trim
weight. (Make sure you use the same scale for the entire
from a particular fabrication and to calculate the value
test.) Fabricate the item to desired specifications. Keep
of all edible cuts, including not only the portion of meat
all parts (bones, fat, usable cuts, usable trim) in separate
served to the guest but also the value of bones used for
tubs or trays, and record all weights.
stock and of trim used for ground meat, pates, soups, or
Use current prices for the meat item as purchased.
other dishes.
Use market values for fat, bones, and usable trim. For instance, if you save the lean meat to make ground meat, the value of that part of the trim is the price you would have to pay to purchase ground meat.
1. Determ ine the As-Purchased Cost (APC). As-purchased weight x As-purchased price per lb = APC EXAMPLE: 2 8 lb x S I.3 0 /lb = $ 3 6 .4 0 (APC) 2. Fabricate the meat. EXAMPLE: trim m ed # 1 0 3 beef rib roast to # 1 0 9 beef rib (roast-ready) 3. Determ ine the to tal trim weight and to tal trim value. Fat trim w eight
Total trim weight
20
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
x M arket p
per lb
= Trim value (fa t)
per lb
= Trim value (bones)
per lb
= Trim value (trim ) Total trim value
EXAMPLE: 3 lb Fat
x SO .lO /lb
= $ 0 .3 0
+ 4 lb Bones
x SO .30/lb
= S I . 20
+ 5 lb Usable trim
x S I.3 0 /lb
12 lb Total trim w eight
= S6.50 = S8.00 Total trim value
4. Determ ine the New Fabricated W eight (NFW). As-purchased weight - Total trim w eight = NFW EXAMPLE: 2 8 lb As-purchased w eight - 12 lb Total trim w eight = 16 lb (NFW ) 5. Determ ine the New Fabricated Cost (NFC). APC - Total trim value = NFC EXAMPLE: S 36 .40 - S 8.00 = S 28.40 (NFC) 6. Determ ine the New Fabricated Price per Pound (NFPP). NFC
= NFPP
NFW
EXAMPLE: ^ ^ 5 = S 1 .7 7 /lb (NFPP) 16 lb
7. Determ ine the Cost Factor (CF). NFPP
= CF
As-purchased price per pound
EXAMPLE: = ! 36 (CF) $ 1 .3 0 /lb
8. Determ ine the yield percent. NFW — As-purchased weight
= Yield percent
EXAMPLE: --6— = 0.5 7 = 5 7 % (Yield percent) 281b
ch a p te r 2 » M E N U S A N D RECIPES
21
9. Determ ine the number of portions of final product from the fabrication. NFW x 16 oz = Total number of ounces
Total number of ounces , , -— = Number of portions — Portion size (in oz)
EXAMPLE: How many 12-oz portions can be obtained from 16 lb of trim m ed meat? 16 lb x 16 oz = 2 5 6 oz
= 2 1 .3 3 (21 full portions) 12 oz
10. Determ ine the cost per portion. NFPP r . f1 ------- -- = Cost of 1 oz 16 oz Cost of 1 oz x Portion size = Cost per portion EXAMPLE: W hat is the cost of one 12-oz portion?
—1 .7 7 /l b _ 0 .1 1 0 6 (cost of 1 oz; = 1 1 .0 6 cents/oz) 16 oz
0 .1 1 0 6 x 12 oz = S I . 3 3 (cost per portion)
22
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
the basics of nutrition and food science Nutrition refers to the study of diet and health. It is through the comprehension of this study that we as foodservice proJfSsionals can Jp
accommodate and enrich diners' dietary preferences a#id restrictions. Meeting the dietary needs of today's lifestyles invol)fes an understanding that people eat or don’t eat certain foods for diffejgmt reasons. The concerns of customers have moved beyond just t i p flavor and texture of food and now extend to a healthy diet full o f jp t r it io u s highquality foods.
Mf
d
nutrition basics Beyond o ffe rin g fla v o rfu l o p tio n s, th e fo o d s e rv ic e p ro
o th e r in co m p le te p ro te in s, can becom e com p le te p ro
fe s s io n a l w ill b e n e fit fro m u n d e rsta n d in g how energy
tein s. W hen fo llo w in g a ve g e ta ria n diet, th e fo llo w in g
and n u trie n ts w o rk. To begin, energy and n u trie n ts are
co m b in a tio n s o ffe r a sam ple o f n o n-m e at-base d com
used f o r g ro w th , m aintenance, and re p a ir o f our bodies.
p le te p ro te in s:
Energy, counted in calories, com es fro m carb oh ydrate s, pro te in , fa t, and alcohol. The f ir s t th re e are considered p rim a ry n u trie n ts , w h ile alcohol is not. Any fo o d source th a t has a good sup ply o f n u trie n ts in re la tio n to the num ber o f calorie s it con tain s is considered n u trie n t dense.
C A R BO HY DR AT E S C arbohydrates pro vid e energy f o r m uscle m ovem ent and red blood cells, and play a role in th e re g u la tio n o f fa t m etab olism . Com posed o f sm a lle r u n its known
» Grains and legumes » Lentils and rice » Pasta and beans » Tortillas and beans » Tofu and rice » Hummus and whole w heat pita
FAT
as sim ple ca rb o h yd ra te s and com ple x carb oh ydrate s,
F at is o fte n a s ig n ific a n t concern o f th o se w a tch in g
the se are necessary f o r th e body to w o rk e ffic ie n tly and
w h a t th e y eat. W hile it is tru e th a t excess f a t in th e d ie t
to f u lf ill its energy needs. S im ple ca rb o h yd ra te s (gener
is un healthy because it raises th e ris k o f c oro na ry he art
ally sugars) are fo u n d in fr u its and ju ices, d a iry pro du cts,
disease, o b e sity, and c e rta in cancers, f a t is s till an es
and re fin e d sugars. Com plex ca rb o h yd ra te s (generally
s e n tia l n u trie n t th a t pro vid es energy and fu lfills b o dily
starche s) are fo u n d in pla n t-b a se d fo o d s such as grains,
fu n ctio n s.
legum es, and veg etab le s. Foods co n ta in in g com plex
C u rre n t d ie ta ry advice places em phasis on the typ e
ca rb o h yd ra te s are also usually good sources o f o th e r
o f fa t as w e ll as th e am ount o f f a t in th e d ie t. M o s t o f
im p o rta n t com p on ents o f a h e a lth y d ie t, in clud in g v ita
th e da ily in ta ke o f fa t should come fro m m ono- and p o ly
mins and m inerals.
u n sa tu ra te d sources. A ltho ug h consum ing m ore than th e recom m ended lim it o f f a t is o fte n a sso cia te d w ith
PROTEIN P ro te in is a n u trie n t e sse n tia l f o r th e g ro w th and m ain tenance o f body tissue s, f o r horm one, enzyme, and a n tib o d y p ro d u ctio n , and f o r th e re g u la tio n o f b o d ily flu id s . The basic bu ild in g blocks are re fe rre d to as amino acids. There are nine e sse n tia l am ino acids th a t m ust be sup plied th ro u g h the d ie t because th e body does not produce them . A ll p ro te in -ric h fo o d s con tain some or all o f th e nine. P ro te in fo o d s are ca te g o rize d as e ith e r c o m p le te or in co m p le te , depending on th e presence or lack o f e sse n tia l am ino acids. A co m p le te p ro te in is a fo o d th a t pro vid es all nine am ino acids in the c o rre c t ra tio to su p p o rt th e p ro d u c tio n o f o th e r p ro te in s by th e a d u lt
w e ig h t gain and o b e sity, excess to ta l calories are the ro o t o f th a t problem . C h o le ste ro l is a fa t-re la te d com pound; the tw o ty p e s are d ie ta ry and serum . D ie ta ry ch o le s te ro l is only fo u n d in anim al fo o d s. Serum o r blood ch o le s te ro l is fo u n d in th e b lo o d stre a m and is e sse n tia l to life . It is not necessary f o r ad u lts to consum e c h o le ste ro l, because th e human body is capable o f m a n u fa ctu rin g all the cho le s te ro l th a t it needs in te rn a lly. Foods high in ch o le ste ro l te n d to have high am ounts o f fa t. R egardless o f how many calorie s are consum ed daily, it is recom m ended th a t ch o le s te ro l in ta ke n o t exceed 3 0 0 m illigram s.
V I T A M I N S AND M I N E R A L S
human body. M eat, p o u ltry , and fis h are good sources o f
Needed in sm a lle r q u a n titie s than pro te in , ca rb o h y
co m p le te p ro te in s.
drates, and fa t, vita m in s and m inerals are noncaloric
Inco m p le te p ro te in s, such as veg etab le s, grains,
e sse n tia l n u trie n ts . V ita m in s are c la s s ifie d as e ith e r
legum es, and nuts, do n o t con tain all th e e sse n tia l amino
w a te r-s o lu b le o r fa t-s o lu b le . W a te r-so lu b le vita m in s
acids. However, each o f the se fo o d s con tain s some o f
dissolve in w a te r and are easily tra n s p o rte d th ro u g h o u t
the e sse ntia l am ino acids th a t, when com bined w ith
the body in the blo o d stre a m . F a t-so lu b le vita m in s are
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
stored in fa t tissues. Both form s of vitamins, as well
composed of a variety o f foods is the healthiest way to
as minerals, are found in many d iffe ren t food sources.
m eet normal nutrient requirements. For a listing of vita
Because no food contains every essential nutrient in the
mins and minerals with their functions and food sources,
correct proportions and no single pill or supplement can
re fer to page 26.
compensate fo r a poor diet, eating a well-balanced diet
menu development and nutrition » M anage the amount of fa t used both as an ingredi
When the diet offers balanced nutrition, obtaining the necessary amount of energy and nutrients is easy.
ent and as part of a preparation or cooking tech
Although it is impossible to know what a customer
nique.
has consumed before entering your establishment, by
» Serve appropriate portions of food.
predicting the combinations of courses th a t your cus tomers are likely to order, you can design your menus to ensure they receive delicious, nutritious, well-balanced meals. As the recommended dietary guidelines continue to change, one thing remains the same: portion control is essential to maintaining a healthy weight. Optimum por
» Use salt w ith care and purpose. » O ffe r a va riety of beverages, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic, th a t complem ent the food menu.
HEALTHY SUBSTITUTIONS
tion size fo r any individual depends primarily on his or
By making simple modifications to existing recipes,
her daily caloric requirements based on age, size, build,
healthier versions are within reach.
and level of physical activity. Fats, oils, and sweets are suggested in very lim ited quantities. O ffering a menu rich in grain products, vegetables, and fruits, low in fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol, and moderate in sugars,
ORIGINAL
MO DIFIED
le g g
2 egg whites
Saute in butter
Sweat in broth/stock
1 cup mayonnaise
V i cup mayonnaise plus V i cup
salt, and sodium will help customers follow a healthy plan.
nonfat yogurt
Because consumers have grown increasingly con scious of the need to make well-balanced meal choices,
1 cup sour cream
1 cup nonfat yogurt plus 1 to 2
the professional chef has been given the opportunity
tbsp butterm ilk or lemon juice
to make a difference. Developing healthy, flavorful, and
plus 1 tbsp flour per 8 oz yogurt
satisfying menu items is both easy and worthwhile.
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup evaporated skim milk
The following is a set of principles developed for healthy cooking. The guidelines are meant as a reference
Your establishm ent will find it rewarding to o ffe r a
fo r food selection, cooking techniques, and beverage o f
variety of options. Continually striving to m eet the ex
ferings. They should be regarded as ways to explore the
pectations of those who walk through your door should
possibilities of flavor and healthy cooking.
be an ongoing challenge fo r you and your staff. Consult The Culinary Institute of America's Techniques o f
» Select nutrient-dense ingredients.
H e a lth y Cooking fo r a more thorough discussion of nu » Store and prepare all foods with the aim of preserv
trition, innovative recipes, and specialized techniques.
ing th eir best possible flavor, texture, color, and overall nutritional value. » Incorporate a variety of plant-based dishes in all categories of the menu.
c h a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
VITAMINS AND MINERALS: THEIR FUNCTIONS 6 COMMON SOURCES W A T E R -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
M IN E R A L S
Name: B-complex (thiamin, riboflavin, niacin,
Name: Calcium (body’s most abundant mineral)
folate, biotin, pantothenic acid, B6, Bn)
Function: Used in the development o f bones and
Function: Allow for proper release o f energy in
teeth; regulates blood pressure; aids in muscle
the body
contraction, transmission o f nerve impulses, and
Food Source: Grains; legumes; vegetables; animal
clotting o f the blood
protein (B12 only found in animal foods)
Food Source: Dairy products (milk, yogurt);
Name: Vitamin C
broccoli; green leafy vegetables
Function: Increases body’s absorption o f iron;
Name: Phosphorus
aids in growth and maintenance of body tissue;
Function: Plays a key role in energy-releasing
boosts immune system; contains antioxidant
reactions; used in conjunction with calcium for
properties
maintaining bones and teeth
Food Source: Fruits and vegetables (berries,
Food Source: Animal protein; nuts; cereals;
melons, tomatoes, potatoes, green leafy
legumes
vegetables) F A T -S O L U B L E V IT A M IN S
Name: Sodium and potassium (electrolytes) Function: Aid in the regulation o f bodily
Name: Vitamin A
functions; help to maintain the body’s normal
Function: Aids in proper vision, bone growth,
fluid balance; involved in nerve and muscle
reproduction, cell division and differentiation;
functions
regulates immune system; maintains surface
Food Source: Sodium is plentiful in many foods;
linings
potassium is found in virtually all fruits and
Food Source: Animal protein such as liver and
vegetables
eggs; the precursor—beta carotene—is found
Name: Magnesium
in orange, deep yellow, and dark green leafy vegetables
Function: Promotes healthy teeth and bones,
muscle contractions, nerve transmission, and
Name: Vitamin D
bowel functions
Function: Aids in proper bone formation
Food Source: Green vegetables; nuts; legumes;
Food Source: Milk; some cereal and breads; fatty
whole grains
fish; egg yolks
Name: Fluoride
Name: Vitamin E
Function: Helps to prevent tooth decay; may help
Function: Protects body from damage by free
to prevent osteoporosis
radicals; contains antioxidant properties
Food Source: Community water; saltwater fish;
Food Source: Nuts; seeds; seed oils; avocados;
shellfish; tea
sweet potatoes; green leafy vegetables Name: Vitamin K
Name: Iodine Function: Essential for the normal functioning of
Function: Aids in proper blood clotting
the thyroid gland; helps to regulate metabolism,
Food Source: Dark green leafy vegetables such as
cellular oxidation, and growth
spinach, kale, broccoli
Food Source: Table salt; cod; grains Name: Iron Function: Helps to carry oxygen from the lungs to
cells; involved in cellular energy metabolism Food Source: Liver and red meat; whole grains;
legumes; green leafy vegetables; dried fruit
TH E C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
food science basics There are dozens o f s c ie n tific prin cip le s a t w o rk d u r
p o rtio n o f the gas o r liquid clo se st to the heat source
ing th e coo kin g process. As an in tro d u c tio n to th e to p ic
w arm s f ir s t and becom es less dense, causing it to rise
o f fo o d science, th is se ctio n pro vid es an ove rvie w o f
and be replaced by cooler, denser p o rtio n s o f the gas or
th e m o s t basic o f th e se p rincip le s. For m ore in fo rm a
liquid. C onvection, th e re fo re , is a com b in a tio n o f con
tio n on any o f th e fo llo w in g sub je cts, re fe r to Readings
d u ctio n and m ixing.
and Resources (page 1 1 8 5 ) f o r a lis t o f fo o d science
C onvection occurs b o th n a tu ra lly and throu gh m e chanical means. N a tu ra l con vectio n is a t w o rk in a p o t o f
references.
w a te r placed on th e stove to boil. C onduction tra n s fe rs
HEATTRANSFER
he at fro m th e stove to th e p o t to th e w a te r m olecules in c o n ta c t w ith th e in te rio r o f th e pot. As the se w a te r m ol
C ooking is th e a ct o f a p plying heat to fo o d s to prepare the m f o r eating. W hen fo o d s are cooked, changes in f la vor, te x tu re , arom a, color, and n u tritio n a l c o n te n t occur du rin g th e process. There are th re e ways th a t he at is tra n s fe rre d to fo o d s. C onduction is the d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een ad ja cent m olecules. An exam ple o f con du ction is co o k ing on a f la tto p range. H eat is tra n s fe rre d fro m th e m o l ecules o f th e h o t range surface to th e m olecules o f the ad ja cent pan b o tto m , the n fro m th e pan b o tto m to the pan sides and th e fo o d con tain ed w ith in th e pan. The pan m ust be in d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith th e range f o r c on du ction to occur.
ecules heat up, con vectio n causes the m to move away and be replaced by co o le r m olecules. This continual m ovem ent re s u lts in con vectio n cu rre n ts w ith in the w a te r. If a p o ta to is added to th e w a te r, th e convection cu rre n ts tra n s fe r he at to th e surface o f th e p o ta to , at w hich p o in t co n d u ctio n ta ke s over to tra n s fe r heat to th e in te rio r o f th e p o ta to . M echanical con vectio n occurs when s tirrin g or a fan is used to speed and equalize heat d is trib u tio n . When you s tir a th ic k sauce to he at it fa s te r and keep it fro m scorch in g on th e b o tto m o f th e pan, you are c re a tin g m e chanical con vectio n. C onvection ovens use fans to rap id ly c irc u la te h o t air, a llo w in g the m to cook fo o d s m ore
Some m a te ria ls are b e tte r co n d u cto rs o f heat than o thers. G enerally, m o st m e ta ls are good con du cto rs, w hile gases (air), liquids, and n o n m e ta llic so lid s (glass, ceram ic) are not. Because it re lie s on d ire c t con tact, con du ction is a re la tiv e ly s lo w m ethod o f heat tra n s fe r, b u t th e slow, d ire c t tra n s fe r o f heat betw een ad ja cent m olecules is w h a t allow s a fo o d to be cooked fro m the o u tsid e in, re s u ltin g in a c o m p le te ly cooked e x te rio r w ith a m o is t and ju ic y in te rio r.
q u ickly and evenly tha n con ven tion al ovens. (N atural con vectio n occurs in con ven tion al ovens as air in c o n ta ct w ith th e h e a tin g e lem e nt circu la te s, b u t th e m a jo rity o f heat tra n s fe r in a con ven tion al oven is th e re s u lt o f in fra re d rad ia tion.) Ra d ia tio n is th e tra n s fe r o f energy th ro u g h waves o f e le c tro m a g n e tic energy th a t tra v e l ra p id ly through space. R adia tion does n o t re q u ire d ire c t co n ta c t be tw ee n th e energy source and fo o d . When the waves
Co nve ction is th e tra n s fe r o f heat th ro u g h gases or liquids. When e ith e r o f the se substances is heated, the
tra v e lin g th ro u g h space s trik e m a tte r and are ab sorbed, th e y cause m olecules in th e m a tte r to vib ra te
SIX BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCIENCE Understanding how food reacts under certain conditions is essential to becoming a profes sional chef. From creating a flavorful dish to developing an innovative shortcut, chefs face challenges every day. The six basic principles of food science are as follows:
Caramelization
Maillard reaction
Gelatinization
Denaturation ch a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SCIENCE
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________________________________________________________
m ore rapidly, in crea sing th e te m p e ra tu re . Two typ e s
cannot brow n fo o d s, and m e ta l cannot be used in them
o f ra d ia tio n are im p o rta n t in th e kitche n: in fra re d and
because it re fle c ts th e m icrow aves, w hich can cause
m icrow ave.
fire s and damage th e oven.
Sources o f in fra re d ra d ia tio n include th e g low ing coals o f a charcoal g rill o r th e g lo w in g coils o f an e lec tr ic to a s te r, broiler, o r oven. W aves o f ra d ia n t energy tra v e l in all d ire c tio n s fro m the se heat sources. Foods and coo kw a re th a t absorb th e energy waves are heated. Dark, dull, o r rough surface s absorb ra d ia n t energy b e t te r than lig h t-c o lo re d , polished, o r s m o o th surfaces. T ransparent glass p e rm its th e tra n s fe r o f ra d ia n t en ergy, so con ven tion al oven te m p e ra tu re s should be lo w ered by a p p ro x im a te ly 2 5 °F /1 4 °C fro m con vectio n oven s e ttin g s to o ffs e t th e a d d itio n a l energy tra n s fe r th a t occurs when using glass ba kin g dishes. M icro w ave ra d ia tio n , produced by m icrow ave ovens, tra n s fe rs energy th ro u g h s h o rt h ig h -fre q u e n cy waves. When these m icrow aves are absorbed by fo o d , the y cause the fo o d m olecules to v ib ra te fa s te r, c re a tin g heat. M icro w ave ra d ia tio n cooks fo o d much fa s te r than in fra re d ra d ia tio n because it p e n e tra te s fo o d s several inches deep, whereas in fra re d is m ainly absorbed at the surface. Depending on th e ir co m p o sitio n , fo o d s re a ct d iffe re n tly to m icrow aves. Foods w ith high m oistu re, sugar, o r fa t c o n te n t absorb m icrow aves b e st and heat up m ore readily. M icro w ave coo kin g has a fe w draw backs, however. It is be st su ite d to coo kin g sm all batches o f fo o d s. M ea ts cooked in a m icrow ave oven lose g re a te r am ounts o f m o istu re and ea sily becom e dry. M icro w ave ovens also
EFFECTS OF HEAT ON SUGARS AND STARCHES: Caramelization, Maillard Reaction, and Gelation As discussed e a rlie r in th is chapter, carb oh ydrate s come in various fo rm s, and each fo rm re a cts d iffe re n tly when exposed to heat. The tw o fo rm s o f c arb oh ydrate s (sim ple and com plex) th a t are o f in te re s t fro m a basic fo o d science p e rs p e c tiv e are sugar and starch. When exposed to heat, sugar w ill a t f ir s t m e lt in to a th ic k syrup. As its te m p e ra tu re con tinu es to rise, th e sugar syrup changes c o lo r fro m clear to lig h t y e l low to a p ro g re ssive ly deepening brown. This brow ning process is called caram elizatio n. It is a co m p lica te d chem ical rea ction , and in a d d itio n to co lo r change, it also causes th e fla v o r o f th e sugar to evolve and ta ke on th e rich c o m p le x ity th a t we know to be c h a ra c te ris tic o f caram el. D iffe re n t typ e s o f sugar caram elize a t d if fe re n t te m p e ra tu re s . G ranulated w h ite sugar m e lts at 3 2 0 °F /1 6 0 °C and begins to caram elize a t 3 3 8 °F /1 7 0 °C . In fo o d s th a t are n o t p rim a rily sugar o r s tarch, a d iffe re n t re a ctio n , known as th e M a illa r d reaction, is resp on sible f o r brow ning. This re a ctio n involves sugars and am ino acids (the bu ild in g blocks o f pro te in ). When heated, the se com p on ents re a ct and produce num erous chem ical b y-p ro d u cts, re s u ltin g in a brow n co lo r and in te nse fla v o r and aroma. It is th is re a ctio n th a t gives
INDUCTION COOKING Induction cooking is a relatively new cook
good contact with the cooktop, and it must
ing method that transfers heat through
be made of ferrous (iron-containing) metal
a specially designed cooktop made of a
such as cast iron, magnetic stainless steel,
smooth ceramic material over an induc
or enamel over steel. Cookware made of
tion coil. The induction coil creates a
other materials will not heat up on these
magnetic current that causes a metal pan
cooktops. Induction cooking offers the ad
on the cooktop to heat up quickly, yet the
vantages of rapid heating and easy cleanup
cooktop itself remains cool. Heat is then
because there are no nooks on the smooth
transferred to the food in the pan through
surface of the cooktop in which spilled
conduction. Cookware used for induction
foods can get stuck, nor does spilled food
cooking must be flat on the bottom for
cook on the cool surface.
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
c o ffe e , chocolate, baked goods, da rk beer, and ro a ste d
based starche s (corn and w heat, f o r exam ple) thicke n
m eats and nuts much o f th e ir rich fla v o r and color.
at high er te m p e ra tu re s and break down m ore slowly.
Though th e M a iila rd re a ctio n can happen a t room te m p e ra tu re , b o th ca ra m e liza tio n and th e M a iila rd
High levels o f sugar o r acid can in h ib it g e la tion, w hile the presence o f s a lt can p ro m o te it.
re a ctio n ty p ic a lly re q u ire re la tiv e ly high heat (above B 00 °F /1 49°C ) to occu r ra p id ly enough to make an ap p re cia ble d iffe re n c e in foo ds. Because w a te r cannot be heated above 2 1 2 °F /1 0 0 °C unless it is under pressure, fo o d s cooked w ith m o is t heat (boiling, steam ing, poach ing, stew ing ) w ill n o t brown. Foods cooked using d ryheat m etho ds (sauteing, g rillin g , or ro a stin g ) w ill brown. It is fo r th is reason th a t many stew e d and braised dishes begin w ith an in itia l b ro w n ing o f in g re d ie n ts b e fo re liq uid is added.
D EN AT U R I NG PROTEINS A t th e m o le cu la r level, n a tural p ro te in s are shaped like coils or springs. When n a tu ra l p ro te in s are exposed to heat, salt, o r acid, th e y d e n a tu re — th a t is, th e ir coils unwind. When p ro te in s denature, the y ten d to bond t o g e th e r (coagulate) and fo rm solid clum ps. An exam ple o f th is is a cooked egg w h ite , which changes fro m a tra n s p a re n t flu id to an opaque solid. As p ro te in s coagulate, th e y lose som e o f th e ir c a p a city to hold w ater, which is
Starch, a com plex carb o h yd ra te , has p o w e rfu l th ic k ening p ro p e rtie s . W hen sta rch is com bined w ith w a te r or an o th e r liq u id and heated, in d ivid u a l sta rch granules absorb th e liq u id and sw ell. This process, known as g e la tion, is w h a t causes th e liquid to thicke n. G elation occurs a t d iffe re n t te m p e ra tu re s f o r d iffe re n t typ e s o f starch. As a general rule o f thum b, ro o t-b a se d starche s (p o ta to and a rro w ro o t, f o r instance) th icke n a t low er te m p e ra tu re s and break down m ore quickly, whereas cereal-
w hy p ro te in -ric h fo o d s give o f f m o istu re as the y cook, even if th e y are steam ed o r poached. F o rtu n a te ly, some he at-in duce d d e n a tu ra tio n is re ve rsib le th ro u g h c o o l ing. This is w hy ro a ste d fo o d s should be allow ed to re st b e fo re carving; as th e te m p e ra tu re fa lls, some o f the w a te r ("juice") th a t was fo rc e d in to spaces betw een the p ro te in s is rea bso rbed and th e fo o d becom es m oister. D enatured p ro te in s are easier to d ig e s t than natural p ro te in s.
EGG STRUCTURE AND USES The egg is composed of two main parts, the
proper structure in many items such as
white and the yolk. Various membranes help
angel food cakes, souffles, and meringues.
keep the yolk suspended at the center of
Egg whites are a key ingredient in clarify
the white and help prevent contamination
ing stocks and broths to produce con
or weight loss through evaporation. Whole
somme. They may also be used as a binder
eggs, as well as whites and yolks separately,
in some forcemeats, especially mousselines
play a number of important culinary roles.
made from fish, poultry, or vegetables.
Whole eggs are used as the main compo
The yolk contains protein, a significant
nent of many breakfast dishes and can be
amount of fat, and a natural emulsifier
prepared by scrambling, frying, poaching,
called lecithin. The yolk also has the ability
or baking, or in custards. In baked goods, whole eggs are used as a glaze and to add
to foam. This function, plus its ability to
nourishment, flavor, and color.
to the preparation of such items as may
The egg white consists almost exclu
form emulsions, makes egg yolks crucial onnaise, hollandaise sauce, and genoise
sively of water and a protein called albu
(sponge cake). Yolks also provide addi
men. Its ability to form a relatively stable
tional richness to food, as when they are
foam is crucial to the development of
included as a liaison in sauces or soups.
c h a p te r 3 » THE B A S IC S OF N U T R I T I O N A N D FOOD SC IE NCE
FU NC T I ON OF COOKING FATS D epending on th e ir m olecu lar s tru c tu re , som e fa ts are solid a t room te m p e ra tu re , w h ile o th e rs are liq u id a t the same te m p e ra tu re . Fats th a t are liq u id a t room te m p e r atu re are known as oils. S olid fa ts s o fte n and eve ntua lly m e lt in to a liquid s ta te when exposed to heat. In a d d itio n to being a v ita l n u trie n t, fa t p e rfo rm s a
a d d itio n a l m a te ria ls in th e fa t (e m u lsifie rs, pre se rva tive s, p ro te in s, carb oh ydrate s) low er th e smoke point. Because som e breakdow n occurs a t m od era te te m pe ra tu re s and fo o d p a rtic le s ten d to g e t le ft in th e fa t, re p ea te d use o f fa t also low ers the smoke point.
F OR MI N G E M U L S I O N S
num ber o f c u lin a ry fu n ctio n s. It pro vid es a rich fla v o r
An em ulsion occurs when tw o substances th a t do not
and s ilk y m o u th fe e l or te x tu re th a t m o st people fin d
n o rm ally m ix are fo rc e d in to a m ix tu re in which one o f
very enjoyable and s a tis fy in g . F at also ca rrie s and
th e substances is evenly dispe rsed in the fo rm o f sm all
blends the fla v o rs o f o th e r fo o d s, and m akes available
d ro p le ts th ro u g h o u t th e other. U nder norm al con ditions,
to us fla v o r com pounds and n u trie n ts th a t are soluble
f a t (e ith e r liquid o il o r solid fa t) and w a te r do n o t mix,
only in fa t. F at pro vid es an ap pe aling visu al elem e nt
bu t the se tw o substances are th e m ost com m on in g re d i
when a fo o d appears, am ong o th e r things, to be m oist,
ents in culina ry em ulsions.
cream y, flu ffy , or shiny. D uring th e baking process, fa t p e rfo rm s a m u ltitu d e o f chem ical fu n c tio n s such as
An em ulsion con sists o f tw o phases, the dispersed phase and the con tinu ou s phase. A v in a ig re tte is an
te n d e rizin g , leavening, aiding in m o is tu re re te n tio n ,
exam ple o f an o il-in -v in e g a r em ulsion, m eaning th a t
and c re a tin g a fla k y o r cru m b ly te x tu re . In cooking, fa t
th e oil (the dispe rsed phase) has been broken up in to
tra n s fe rs heat to fo o d s and pre ven ts the m fro m s tic k
ve ry sm all d ro p le ts suspended th ro u g h o u t the vinegar
ing. It also holds th e heat in fo o d , e m u ls ifie s o r thicke ns
(the con tinu ou s phase). T em porary em ulsions, such as
sauces, and cre a te s a crisp te x tu re when used f o r fry in g .
v in a ig re tte s , fo rm q u ickly and req uire only the m echani
One im p o rta n t aspect o f fa t is its a b ility to be heated
cal actio n o f w hipping, shaking, or s tirrin g . To make an
to re la tiv e ly high te m p e ra tu re s w ith o u t b o ilin g or o th
em ulsion sta b le enough to keep th e oil in suspension,
erw ise bre aking down. This is w h a t allow s frie d fo o d s to
a d d itio n a l in g re d ie n ts, known as e m u lsifie rs, are neces
brown and cook quickly. If heated to high enough te m
sary to a ttra c t and hold to g e th e r both th e o il and liquid.
pe rature s, however, fa t w ill begin to bre ak down and de
C om m only used e m u ls ifie rs include egg yolks (which
velop an acrid flavo r, e ffe c tiv e ly ru inin g a n yth in g cooked
con tain th e e m u ls ifie r le cithin ), m ustard, and glace
in it. The te m p e ra tu re a t w hich th is occurs, known as the
de viande. N a tu ra l starche s, such as tho se in ga rlic, or
sm oke poin t, is d iffe re n t fo r each fa t. G enerally, veg
m o d ifie d starches, such as co rn sta rch o r a rro w ro o t, are
eta b le oils begin to sm oke around 4 5 0 °F /2 3 2 °C , w hile
also used.
anim al fa ts begin to sm oke around 3 7 5 °F /1 9 1 °C . Any
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
food and kitchen safety The importance of food and kitchen safety cannot be overemphasized. Few things are as detrimental to a foodservice establishment as an officially noted outbreak of a food-borne illness caused by poor sanitary practices. In addition to providing a sanitary atmosphere and adhering to procedures for safe food handling, it is also important to ensure a safe working environment. This chapter covers jfte causes of foodborne illnesses and prevention procedures, and/ikludes checklists to help the s ta ff achieve sanitary and safe kitjn en conditions.
i
food-borne illness Foods can serve as ca rrie rs fo r many d iffe re n t illnesses.
an in fe c tio n . Som e fo o d -b o rn e illnesses have ch a ra c te r
The m o st com m on sym p to m s o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses
is tic s o f b o th an in to x ic a tio n and an in fe ctio n . E. coli is
include abdom inal cram ps, nausea, v o m itin g , and d ia r
an agent th a t causes such an illness.
rhea, p o ssib ly accom panied by fever. These sym ptom s may appear w ith in a fe w hours a fte r con sum p tion o f the a ffe c te d fo o d , alth ou gh in some cases several days may elapse b e fo re onset. In o rd e r f o r a fo o d -b o rn e illne ss to be declared an o ffic ia l o u tb re a k, it m u st involve tw o or m ore people who have eaten th e same fo o d , and health o ffic ia ls m ust c o n firm it. F ood-borne illnesses are caused by a d u lte ra t e d fo o d s (food s u n fit f o r human consum ption). The seve r ity o f th e illne ss depends on th e am ount o f a d u lte ra te d fo o d in ge ste d and, to a g re a t e xte n t, th e in d iv id u a l’s sus c e p tib ility . Children, th e elde rly, and anyone whose im mune system is already under siege g e ne rally w ill have much m ore d iffic u lty than a h e a lth y a d u lt in c o m b a tin g a fo o d -b o rn e illness. The source o f th e co n ta m in a tio n a ffe c tin g th e fo o d supply can be chem ical, physical, o r biolo gical. Inse cticide s and cleaning com pounds are exam ples o f chemical c o n ta m in a n ts th a t may a c cid e n ta lly fin d th e ir way in to foo ds. Physical c o n ta m in a n ts include b its o f glass, ro d e n t hairs, and p a in t chips. C areless fo o d han d ling can mean th a t even an e a rrin g or a p la s tic bandage could fa ll in to the fo o d and re s u lt in illne ss or injury. Bio lo gic a l c o n ta m in a n ts account f o r th e m a jo rity o f fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. These include n a tu ra lly oc cu rrin g poisons, known as toxins, fo u n d in ce rta in w ild m ushroom s, rhubarb leaves, green p o ta to e s, and o th e r plants. The p re d o m in a n t b io lo g ica l agents, however, are disease-causing m icro orga nism s known as pa thogens, which are resp on sible f o r up to 95 p e rc e n t o f alt fo o d borne illnesses. M icro o rg a n ism s o f m any kinds are p re se n t v irtu a lly everyw here, and m o st are h e lp fu l or harm less, if n o t esse ntia l; only ab o u t 1 p e rce n t o f m ic ro organism s are a ctu a lly pathogenic. Food-borne illnesses caused by b io lo g ica l con ta m in a n ts fa ll in to tw o sub categ orie s: in to x ic a tio n and in fe c tio n . I n to x ic a tio n occurs when a person consumes fo o d c o n ta in in g to x in s fro m b a cteria , m olds, o r ce rta in plan ts and anim als. Once in th e body, th e se to x in s a ct as poison. B o tu lism is an exam ple o f an in to x ic a tio n . In th e case o f an in fe ctio n, th e fo o d eaten by an in d i vid ua l contains large num bers o f liv in g pathogens. These pathogens m u ltip ly in th e body and g e n e ra lly a tta c k the g a s tro in te s tin a l lining. S alm on ellosis is an exam ple o f
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
FOOD PATHOGENS The s p e c ific ty p e s o f pathogens resp on sible f o r fo o d borne illne sses are fun gi, viruses, parasites, and bac te ria . Fungi, w hich include m olds and yeast, are m ore ad ap ta ble than o th e r m icro orga nism s and have a high to le ra n ce f o r acidic co n d itio n s. They are m ore o fte n re spo nsible f o r fo o d spoilage than f o r fo o d -b o rn e illness. B e n e ficia l fu n g i are im p o rta n t to th e fo o d in d u s try in th e p ro d u c tio n o f cheese, bread, wine, and beer. Viruses do n o t a c tu a lly m u ltip ly in fo o d , b u t if th ro u g h p o or s a n ita tio n p ra ctice a viru s con tam in ates fo o d , con sum p tion o f th a t fo o d may re s u lt in illness. In fe c tio u s h e p a titis A, caused by e a tin g sh e llfis h har veste d fro m p o llu te d w a te rs (an ille g a l p ra ctice ) or poor hand-w ashing p ra ctice s a fte r using th e re stro o m , is an exam ple. Once in th e body, a viru s invades a cell (called th e h o s t cell) and e s s e n tia lly rep rog ram s it to produce m ore copies o f the virus. The copies leave the dead host cell behind and invade s till m ore cells. The be st defenses against fo o d -b o rn e viru ses are good personal hygiene and o b ta in in g s h e llfis h fro m c e rtifie d w a te rs. P ara sit es are pathogens th a t fe e d on and ta ke shel te r in a n o th e r organism , called a host. The ho st receives no b e n e fit fro m th e p a ra site and, in fa c t, s u ffe rs harm or even de ath as a re su lt. A m ebas and variou s w orm s such as Trichinella spiralis, which is a sso cia te d w ith pork, are am ong th e p a ra site s th a t c o n ta m in a te foo ds. D iffe re n t p a ra site s rep rod uce in d iffe re n t ways. One exam ple is the p a ra s itic w orm th a t e xists in larval stage in m uscle m eats. Once consumed, its life cycle and re p ro d u ctive cycle continue. W hen th e larvae reach a d u lt stage, the fe r tiliz e d fe m a le s release m ore eggs, which hatch and tra v e l to th e m uscle tissu e o f th e host, and th e cycle continues. B a c te ria are resp on sible f o r a s ig n ific a n t p e rc e n t age o f b io lo g ic a lly caused fo o d -b o rn e illnesses. In ord e r to b e tte r p ro te c t fo o d du rin g s torage, p re p a ra tio n , and service, it is im p o rta n t to un de rsta nd th e c la s s ific a tio n s and p a tte rn s o f b a c te ria l g ro w th . Am ong th e d iff e r ent con ven tion s f o r the c la s s ific a tio n o f ba cteria , the m o st re le va n t to che fs are th e ir re q u ire m e n t fo r oxygen (a e ro b ic /a n a e ro b ic /fa c u lta tiv e ), th e ir e ffe c ts on people
(p a th o g e n ic /u n d e s ira b le /b e n e fic ia l/b e n ig n ), and th e ir
A lth o u g h coo kin g fo o d w ill d e s tro y many o f the
s p o re -fo rm in g a b ilitie s . A e ro b ic b a c te r ia req uire the
m icro o rg a n ism s pre sen t, careless fo o d handling a fte r
presence o f oxygen to grow. A na e ro b ic b a c te r ia do not
coo kin g can re in tro d u c e pathogens th a t w ill g ro w even
req uire oxygen and may even die when exposed to it.
m ore q u ickly w ith o u t c o m p e titio n fo r fo o d and space
F a c u lta tive b a c t e r ia are able to fu n c tio n w ith or w ith o u t
fro m th e m icro o rg a n ism s th a t cause spoilage. A lthough
oxygen. It is also im p o rta n t to know a t which te m p e ra
s h o rtc u ts and carelessness do not always re s u lt in fo o d -
tu re b a cte ria gro w best. C ertain b a cte ria are able to
borne illness, in a tte n tio n to d e ta il increases the risk o f
fo rm endospores, w hich serve as a means o f p ro te c tio n
c re a tin g an o u tb re a k th a t m ay cause serious illness or
ag ainst adverse circu m sta nce s such as high te m p e ra
even death. The variou s kinds o f expenses re la te d to an
tu re or de hyd ration . E ndospores allow an in dividu al
o u tb re a k o f fo o d -b o rn e illness, such as negative p u b lic
b a cteriu m to resum e its life cycle if fa vo ra b le co n d itio n s
ity and loss o f p re stig e , are blow s fro m which many res
should recur.
ta u ra n ts can never recover.
B acte ria re q u ire th re e basic c o n d itio n s fo r g ro w th and re p ro d u ctio n : a p ro te in source, re a d ily available m oistu re, and tim e . The higher th e am ount o f p ro te in in a fo o d , th e g re a te r its p o te n tia l as a c a rrie r o f a fo o d borne illness. The am o un t o f m o istu re available in a fo o d is m easured on th e w a te r a c tiv ity (Aw) scale. This scale runs fro m 0 to 1, w ith 1 re p re s e n tin g th e Aw o f water. Foods w ith a w a te r a c tiv ity above 0.85 s u p p o rt ba cte ria l g ro w th . A fo o d 's re la tiv e a c id ity o r a lk a lin ity is m easured on a scale known as pH. A m od era te pH — a value betw een 4.6 and 10 on a scale th a t ranges fro m 1 to 1 4 — is b e st f o r b a c te ria l gro w th , and m o st fo o d s fa ll w ith in th a t range. A dd in g highly acidic in g re d ie n ts, such as vin eg ar o r c itru s ju ice, to a fo o d can low er its pH and exte nd its s h e lf life. M any fo o d s p ro vid e th e th re e co n d itio n s necessary fo r b a c te ria l g ro w th and are th e re fo re con sid ered to be p o te n tia lly hazardous. M eats, p o u ltry , seafood, to fu , and da iry p ro d u cts (w ith th e exce ptio n o f some hard cheeses) are all ca te g o rize d as p o te n tia lly hazardous foo ds. Foods do n o t n e cessa rily have to be anim al based to con tain pro te in , however; veg etab le s and grains also contain pro te in . Cooked rice, beans, pasta, and p o ta to e s are th e re fo re also p o te n tia lly hazardous foo ds. There
AV O I D I N G CROSS C O N T A M I N A T I O N M any fo o d -b o rn e illne sses are a re s u lt o f u nsanitary handling p ro ced ures in th e kitche n. Cross con tam in ation occurs when disease-causing elem e nts or h a rm fu l sub stances are tra n s fe rre d fro m one co n ta m in a te d surface to another. E xce lle n t personal hygiene is one o f the be st de fen ses ag ainst cross co n ta m in a tio n . An em ployee who re p o rts fo r w o rk w ith a con tagiou s illne ss or an in fe cte d cu t on th e hand pu ts every cu sto m e r at risk. Any tim e th e hands com e in c o n ta c t w ith a possible source o f con ta m in a tio n (the face, hair, eyes, and m outh) the y m ust be th o ro u g h ly washed b e fo re c o n tin u in g any w ork. Food is a t g re a te s t ris k o f cross c o n ta m in a tio n d u r ing th e p re p a ra tio n stage. Ideally, sep ara te w o rk areas and c u ttin g boards should be used f o r raw and cooked fo o d s. E quipm ent and c u ttin g boards should always be cleaned and th o ro u g h ly sa n itize d betw een uses. A ll fo o d m ust be s to re d c a re fu lly to pre ven t c o n ta ct betw een raw and cooked item s. Place d rip pans beneath raw fo o d s. Do n o t handle re a d y -to -e a t fo o d s w ith bare hands. Instead, use s u ita b le u te n sils or single-use fo o d handling gloves.
are also o th e r u n like ly can didate s th a t are ripe f o r bac te ria l g ro w th such as sliced m elons, sp ro u ts, and g a rlican d-o il m ixtu re s. Food th a t con tain s pathogens in g re a t enough num bers to cause illness may s till look and sm ell norm al. D isease-causing m icro orga nism s are to o sm all to be seen w ith th e naked eye, so it is usually im p ossib le to a sce rta in visu a lly th a t fo o d is a d u lte ra te d . Because the m icro o rg a n ism s— p a rtic u la rly th e b a c te ria — th a t cause fo o d -b o rn e illne ss are d iffe re n t fro m th e ones th a t cause fo o d to spoil, fo o d may be a d u lte ra te d and s till have no " o ff" odor.
Cross contam ination icon
Hand-washing icon
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
PROPER HAND WASHING To reduce the chances of cross contamina
hands at the beginning of each shift and
tion, wash your hands often and correctly.
each new task, after handling raw foods,
Hands and forearms should be washed us
after going to the bathroom, sneezing,
ing soap and no°F/43°C water for no less
coughing, and so forth, and after handling
than twenty seconds. Be sure to wash your
any nonfood item.
KEEPI NG FOODS O U T O F T H E
th e y arrive in s a n ita ry co n d itio n s. Check the am bient
D ANGER Z ONE
te m p e ra tu re inside the d e live ry tru c k to see th a t it is
An im p o rta n t w eapon against pathogens is th e ob servance o f s tr ic t tim e and te m p e ra tu re co n tro ls. G enerally, th e disease-causing m icro orga nism s fo u n d in fo o d s, w ith th e exce ptio n o f E. coli 0 1 57 :H 7, need to be pre se n t in s ig n ific a n t q u a n titie s in o rd e r to make som e one ill. Once pathogens have e sta b lish e d the m se lve s in a fo o d source, th e y w ill e ith e r th riv e or be d e stro yed , depending upon how lo n g fo o d s are in th e danger zone. There are pathogens th a t can live a t all te m p e ra tu re ranges. For m o st o f tho se capable o f c a u s in g fo o d -b o rn e illness, the frie n d lie s t e n viro n m e n t pro vid es te m p e ra tu re s w ith in a range o f 41° to 1 3 5 °F /5 ° to 57°C — the danger zone. M o s t pathogens are e ith e r d e stro ye d or w ill n o t rep rod uce a t te m p e ra tu re s above 135°F /57°C . S to rin g fo o d a t te m p e ra tu re s below 41 °F /5 °C w ill slow o r in te rru p t the cycle o f re p ro d u ctio n . (It should also be
co rre c t. Check th e te m p e ra tu re o f th e p ro d u ct as w e ll as th e e x p ira tio n dates. V e rify th a t fo o d s have the req uire d go ve rn m e n t in sp e ctio n and c e rtific a tio n stam ps or tags. R andom ly sam ple ite m s and re je c t any goods th a t do n o t m ee t you r stan dard s. M ove th e ite m s im m e d ia te ly in to p ro p e r sto ra g e con ditions. R e frig e ra tio n and fre e z e r u n its should be m ain tain ed on a reg ular schedule and equipped w ith th e r m o m e te rs to a sce rta in th a t th e te m p e ra tu re rem ains w ith in a safe range. A lth o u g h in m o st cases c h illin g w ill n o t a ctu a lly k ill pathogens, it does d ra s tic a lly slow down re p ro d u ctio n . In general, re frig e ra to rs should be kept betw een 36° and 4 0 °F /2 ° and 4°C, b u t q u a lity is b e tte r m a intained i f c e rta in fo o d s can be sto re d a t the se spe c ific te m p e ra tu re s: M ea t and poultry: 32 ° to 3 6 °F /0 ° to 2°C
noted th a t in to x ic a tin g pathogens may be d e stro ye d du rin g cooking, b u t any to x in s th e y have produced are s till there.) When co n d itio n s are favo ra ble, b a cte ria can re p ro duce a t an a sto n ish in g rate. T here fore, c o n tro llin g the tim e du rin g w hich fo o d s rem ain in th e danger zone is
Fish and shellfish: 30° to 3 4 ° F /-1 ° to 1°C Eggs: 38° to 4 0 ° F /3 ° to 4 ° C Dairy products: 36° to 4 0 °F /2 ° to 4°C Produce: 40 ° to 4 5 °F /4 ° to 7°C
c ritic a l to th e p re ve n tio n o f fo o d -b o rn e illness. Foods le ft in the danger zone fo r a pe rio d longer than fo u r ■ hours are considered a d u lte ra te d . A d d itio n a lly , the
S ep ara te re frig e ra to rs f o r each o f the above c a t egories are ideal, b u t if necessary, a single u n it can be
fo u r-h o u r pe rio d is cum ulative, m eaning th a t th e m e te r continues running every tim e th e fo o d en te rs th e danger zone. Once th e fo u r-h o u r pe rio d has been exceeded, heating or coo lin g cannot reco ver foo ds.
receive and store foods safely
* /
0
It is not unheard o f fo r fo o d s to be d e live red to a fo o d -
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
70° F '2 1 ° C
41 °F 5° C
u
service o p e ra tio n already co n ta m in a te d . To pre ve n t th is fro m happening to you, in sp e ct all goods to be sure
135° F ' 57° C
135° F 57° C
Danger zone icon
41° F 5° C
Time and tem perature icon
d ivide d in to sectio ns. The fr o n t o f th e u n it w ill be the
unless you use th e tw o -s ta g e coo lin g m ethod. In the
w a rm e st area, th e back th e co ld e st. B e fo re s to rin g fo o d
f ir s t stage o f th is m ethod, fo o d s m ust be cooled to
in th e re frig e ra to r, it should be p ro p e rly cooled, sto re d
7 0 °F /2 1 °C w ith in tw o hours. In the second stage, foo ds
in clean con tain ers, w rapped, and labeled cle a rly w ith
m ust reach 4 1 °F /5 °C o r below w ith in an a d d itio n a l fo u r
the co n te n ts and date. S to re raw p ro d u cts below and
hours, f o r a to ta l c o o lin g tim e o f six hours. A ccording
away fro m cooked fo o d s to pre ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n
to FDA guidelines, using th e tw o -s ta g e m ethod quickly
by d ripp ing . Use th e p rin c ip le o f " f ir s t in, f ir s t o u t" (FIFO)
moves th e fo o d th ro u g h th e p a rt o f th e danger zone
when arra ng ing fo o d , so th a t o ld e r ite m s are in th e fro n t.
w here b a cte ria gro w m o st rapidly.
Dry sto ra g e is used f o r fo o d s such as canned goods,
The p ro p e r w ay to cool h o t liquids is to place them
spices, con dim ents, cereals, and sta p le s such as flo u r
in a m e ta l c o n ta in e r in an ice w a te r bath th a t reaches
and sugar, as w e ll as f o r som e fr u its and veg etab le s th a t
th e same level as th e liquid inside th e container. S tir the
do n o t re q u ire re frig e ra tio n and have low p e ris h a b ility .
liq u id in th e c o n ta in e r fre q u e n tly so th a t th e w arm er
As w ith all storag e, th e area m ust be clean, w ith p ro pe r
liq u id a t th e c e n te r m ixes w ith the coo le r liquid a t the
v e n tila tio n and a ir circ u la tio n . Cleaning supplies should
o u te r edges o f th e con tain er, bring ing down the overall
be sto re d in a sep ara te place.
te m p e ra tu re m ore rapidly. S em isolid and solid fo o d s should be re frig e ra te d in
hold cooked or ready-to-serve foods safely
fa ce exposure to th e cold air. For th e same reason, large
Keep h o t fo o d s h o t and cold fo o d s cold. Use h o t-h o ld in g
cuts o f m eat o r o th e r fo o d s should be cu t in to sm aller
e q uipm en t (steam ta b le s, double bo ile rs, bain-m aries,
p o rtio n s , cooled to room te m p e ra tu re , and w rapped be
heated cab in ets or draw ers, ch a fin g dishes, etc.) to keep
fo re re frig e ra tin g .
a single layer in shallow con tain ers to allow g re a te r su r
fo o d s a t or above 13 5 °F /5 7 °C . Do n o t use h o t-h o ld in g eq uipm en t fo r coo kin g or reh ea ting. Use co ld -h o ld in g
reheat foods safely
e q uipm en t (ice o r re frig e ra tio n ) to keep cold fo o d s a t or
When fo o d s are pre pa red ahead and then reheated, they
below a te m p e ra tu re o f 4 1 °F /5 °C .
should move th ro u g h th e danger zone as ra p id ly as pos sib le and be re h ea te d to a t le a st 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C fo r a m in i
cool foods safely
mum o f fifte e n seconds. As long as all p ro p e r cooling
One o f th e leading causes o f fo o d -b o rn e illness is
and re h e a tin g pro ced ures are fo llo w e d each tim e, fo o d s
im p ro p e rly cooled fo o d . Cooked fo o d s th a t are to be
may be cooled and re h ea te d m ore than once.
sto re d need to be cooled to below 41 °F /5 °C as qu ickly as possible. This should be co m p le te d w ith in fo u r hours,
Food should be b ro u g h t to th e p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re over d ire c t heat (burner, fla tto p , g rill, or conventional
SAFE HANDLING OF EGGS Today’s consumer is well aware of the po
at a temperature o f at least 14o°F/6o°C for
tential for food-borne illness through eggs.
a minimum of^Vi minutes. The bacteria
Therefore, we will look at basic rules for safe
are also killed instantly at i6o°F/yi°C.
handling of eggs and foods containing eggs. » All eggs in the shell should be free from cracks, leaks, and obvious holes.
Fried eggs or poached eggs with runny yolks should be prepared only at customer request.
» Raw egg yolks are a potentially hazardous
» Any food containing eggs must be kept at
food, due to the possible presence o f Sal
safe temperatures throughout handling,
monella enteritidis bacteria. Salmonella
cooking, and storage. Cooling and reheat
bacteria are killed when the eggs are held
ing must be done quickly.
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D KIT CHEN S A F E T Y
oven) or in a microwave oven. Do not use hot-holding
1 ASSESS THE HAZARDS. The firs t step in a HACCP
equipment for cooking or reheating. A steam table will
program begins with a hazard analysis of the menu
adequately hold reheated foods above 1 3 5°F /57°C , but
item or recipe. The process must be looked at by
it will not bring foods out of the danger zone quickly
designing a flow chart th a t covers every step in the
enough. Instant-read therm om eters should always be
period from "dock to dish."
used to check tem peratures.
2. ID E N T IFY T H E CRITICAL CONTROL POINTS.The next decision to make, a fte r you have established
thaw frozen foods safely
a flow diagram and identified potential hazards,
Frozen foods may be thawed safely in several ways.
is to identify the critical control points (CCPs). A
Never thaw food at room tem perature. The best (though
critical control point is the place in the utilization
slowest) method is to allow the food to thaw under re
of the food at which you have the ability to prevent,
frigeration. The food should still be wrapped and should
eliminate, or reduce an existing hazard or to pre
be placed in a shallow container on a bottom shelf to
vent or minimize the likelihood th a t a hazard will
prevent possible cross contamination.
occur. To quote the 1 9 9 9 FDA Food Code, a critical
If there is not tim e to thaw foods in the refrigerator,
control point is "a point or procedure in a specific
covered or wrapped food may be placed in a container
food system where loss of control may result in an
under running w ater of approxim ately 7 0 °F /2 1 °C or
unacceptable health risk." One of the most difficu lt
below. Use a stream of w ater strong enough to circulate
aspects of putting to gether a HACCP program is not
the w ater around the food.
to overidentify these critical control points.
Individual portions th at are to be cooked immedi ately may be thawed in a microwave oven. Liquids, small
3
ESTABLISH CRITICAL LIM ITS AND CONTROL
items, and individual portions may even be cooked w ith
MEASURES. Critical limits are generally standards
out thawing, but larger pieces th a t are cooked while still
fo r each critical control point; control measures
frozen become overcooked on the outside before they
are what you can do ahead of tim e to fac ilitate the
are thoroughly done throughout.
achievement of your critical limit. Many limits have already been established by local health depart
H A Z A R D A N A L Y S I S C R I T I C A L CON T RO L
ments. For example, an established critical limit
PO I N TS ( HACCP)
fo r the cooking step in preparing chicken is a final
HACCP stands for Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points, which is a scientific s ta te -o f-th e -a rt food safety program originally developed fo r astronauts. HACCP takes a systematic approach to the conditions th at are responsible fo r most food-borne illnesses. It is preven tive in nature, anticipating how food safety problems are most likely to occur and taking steps to prevent
internal tem perature of 1 6 5 °F /7 4 °C . If you were to hold this chicken on the line before actual service, it would have to be kept at 1 4 0 °F /6 0 °C to prevent the growth of pathogenic organisms. Holding would be another critical step in this process.
4. ESTABLISH PROCEDURES FOR MONITORING CCPs. Critical limits fo r each CCP have to be estab
them from occurring. The types of hazards of concern
lished to identify what is to be monitored. You must
are biological, chemical, and physical. Biological hazards
also establish how the CCP wilt be monitored and
are typically microbiological, which include bacteria,
who will do it. Monitoring helps improve the system
viruses, and parasites. Chemical hazards can be found in
by forcing identification of problems or faults at
the sanitation products used in the kitchen and physical
particular points in the process. This allows fo r more
hazards include glass, wood, stones, or other foreign
control or improvement in the system.
objects. The HACCP system has been adopted by both food processors and restaurants, as well as by the FDA and USDA. At this time, there are no particular mandates th at all foodservice establishments must use HACCP. However, instituting such a plan may prove advanta geous on many levels. The heart of HACCP is contained in the following seven principles:
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
5. ESTABLISH CORRECTIVE ACTION PLANS. A plan of action must be identified to deal with a deviation or substandard level th at occurs fo r a step in the pro cess. Specific corrective actions must be developed fo r each CCP, because each food item and its prepa ration can vary greatly from one kitchen to the next.
6. SET UP A RECORD-KEEPING SYSTEM. Keep docu mentation on hand to demonstrate whether the sys
to u ch th e p a rts o f fla tw a re th a t come in c o n ta c t w ith fo o d , and handle glassw a re by th e stem s or bases only.
tem is working. Recording events at CCPs ensures that
C arry plates, glasses, and fla tw a re in such a way th a t
critical limits are met and preventive monitoring is
fo o d c o n ta c t surface s are n o t touched. Serve all fo o d s
occurring. Documentation typically consists of tim e /
using th e p ro p e r utensils.
temperature logs, checklists, and sanitation forms.
7. DEVELOP A VERIFICATION SYSTEM. This step es
CLEANING AND SA NITIZING
tablishes procedures to ensure th at the HACCP plan
Cleaning re fe rs to th e rem oval o f soil or fo o d p a r
is working correctly. If procedures are not being
tic le s , whereas san itizin g involves using m o ist heat or
followed, make the necessary modifications to the
chem ical agents to k ill pa thog en ic m icroorganism s. For
system so th at they are.
e q u ip m e n t th a t can no t be im m ersed in a sink, o r fo r e q u ip m e n t such as knives and c u ttin g boards em ployed
SE R VI N G FOODS SA F EL Y The p o te n tia l to tra n s m it fo o d -b o rn e illne ss does not end when th e fo o d leaves th e kitche n. R e sta ura nt s e rv ers should also be in s tru c te d in good hygiene and safe fo o d -h a n d lin g pra ctices. Hands should be p ro p e rly w ashed a fte r using th e re stro o m , eating, sm oking, to u ch in g one's face o r hair, and handling m oney, d irty
du rin g fo o d p re p a ra tio n , use a w ip in g c lo th soaked in a d o u b le -s tre n g th sa n itiz in g s o lu tio n to clean and san itize betw een uses. Iodine, chlorine, or qu a te rn a ry ammonium com pounds are all com m on s a n itizin g agents. Sm all eq uipm en t, to o ls , pots, and ta b le w a re should be run th ro u g h a w a re-w a shing m achine o r washed m anually in a th re e -c o m p a rtm e n t sink. A fte r sanitizing, e q u ip m e n t and ta b le w a re should be allow ed to a ir-d ry
dishes, or soiled ta b le linens. W hen s e ttin g tab les, never
FOOD ALLERGIES The way your body reacts when you eat a
major food allergens must identify them
food to which you are truly allergic can be
on the label, so you must be certain that
dramatic or even dangerous. An allergic
you have read the label on prepared foods
reaction to a food may also occur rapidly.
thoroughly.
The skin may become itchy and develop
It is also important to realize that de
hives or welts. Some people experience
pending on an individual’s sensitivity, even
swelling of their throats or tongues. Severe
the very small amount of allergen left on
reactions require immediate medical
a piece of equipment and transferred to a
attention.
food could be enough to set off a reaction.
A true food allergy is nothing to fool around with. As a chef, you can’t assume that a request for “no garlic” indicates an unevolved palate or an unreasonable food dislike. For the individual suffering from a
Some of the most common food aller gies are to the following: » Peanuts » Tree nuts
food allergy, even the merest hint of garlic
» Milk
in his or her soup can set off a reaction.
» Eggs
People who suffer from an allergy will ask about the menu in regard to the food(s) that they cannot eat. It is impor
» Wheat » Soy
tant that you and your staff know the
» Fish
ingredients used in a dish. As of January
» Shellfish
2006 all packaged foods that contain
c h a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT CHEN S A F E T Y
co m p le te ly, because using paper or c lo th to w e lin g could
to p re ve n t a p e st in fe s ta tio n . Take th e necessary steps
re s u lt in cross co n ta m in a tio n .
to p ro h ib it th e p o te n tia l ha rb o rin g o f various pathogens
C a reful s a n ita tio n procedures, p ro p e r handling o f
caused by pests.
foo ds, and a w e ll-m a in ta in e d fa c ility all w o rk to g e th e r
kitchen safety In a d d itio n to th e p re ca u tio n s necessary to guard
and you r s t a f f f o r guidance. In s tru c t your kitche n s t a f f
a g ainst fo o d -b o rn e illness, care m ust also be take n to
in the c o rre c t w ay to handle a g rill fire and grease fire .
avoid accid e n ts to s t a f f and guests. The fo llo w in g
(Above all, make sure everyone knows never to t r y to p u t
s a fe ty m easures should be p ra cticed .
o u t a grease, chem ical, o r e le c tric a l fire by th ro w in g w a te r on th e flam es.) Everyone should know where th e fire
HEALTH AND HY GI E N E M a intain good general health w ith reg ular checkups. Do n o t handle fo o d when ill. Keep any burn or break in the skin covered w ith a clean, w a te rp ro o f bandage. Cover
d e p a rtm e n t num ber is posted.
DRESS I NG FOR S A F E T Y The various p a rts o f the ty p ic a l c h e fs u n ifo rm play im
your face w ith a tissu e when coughing or sneezing and
p o rta n t roles in keeping w o rke rs safe as the y operate in
wash hands a fte rw a rd .
a p o te n tia lly dangerous en viro nm en t. The ch e fs ja cket,
Keep hair clean and neat, and con tain it if necessary. Keep fin g e rn a ils s h o rt and w e ll m aintained, w ith no p o l
fo r instance, is d o ub le-b rea ste d to crea te a tw o -la ye r clo th b a rrie r over th e che st to p ro te c t a gainst steam
ish. Keep hands away fro m hair and face when w o rkin g
burns, splashes, and spills. (The design also allow s the
w ith foo d.
ja c k e t to be re b u tto n e d on the o p p o site side to cover any spills.) The sleeves o f the ja c k e t are long to cover as
FIRE S A F E T Y It takes only a fe w seconds fo r a sim ple fla re -u p to turn in to a fu ll-scale fire . Grease fire s, e le ctrica l fire s, or even a w aste container fu ll o f paper catching fire when a match is carelessly tossed in to it are easy to imagine in any busy kitchen. A com prehensive fire sa fe ty plan should be in place and a standard p a rt o f all employee training. The f ir s t ste p to ta ke to avoid fire s is to make sure th a t the e n tire s t a f f is fu lly aware o f p o te n tia l fir e dan gers. Be sure th a t all e q u ip m e n t is up to code. Frayed or exposed w ire s and fa u lty plugs can all to o ea sily be the cause o f a fire . O verburdened o u tle ts are a n o th e r com mon c u lp rit. Have fir e e xtin g u ish e rs in easily accessible areas. P rop er m aintenance o f e xtin g u ish e rs and tim e ly inspec tio n s by your local fir e d e p a rtm e n t are v ita l. The exits fro m all areas o f the bu ild in g should be easy to fin d , clear o f any o b s tru c tio n s , and fu lly op e ra tio n a l. Thorough tra in in g is esse ntia l. Everyone should know w h a t to do in case o f a fire . Your g u ests re ly on you
THE C U L I N A R Y P R O F E S S I O N A L
much o f the arm as possible. Pants should be worn w ith o u t cu ffs, which can tra p h o t liquids and debris. Be it a ta ll w h ite to q u e or a fa v o rite baseball cap, chefs w ear hats to con tain th e ir hair and pre ven t it fro m fa llin g in to th e fo o d . H ats also help absorb sw e at fro m ove rhe ated brow s. N e ckerch iefs serve a s im ila r sw eata b so rb in g role. The apron is worn only to p ro te c t th e ja c k e t and pants fro m excessive staining. Side to w e ls are used to p ro te c t th e ir hands when w o rk in g w ith h o t pans, dishes, or o th e r eq uipm en t. Side to w e ls used to l i f t hot item s m ust be d ry in o rd e r to pro vid e p ro te c tio n . Hard le a th e r shoes w ith s lip -re s is ta n t soles are re c om m ended because o f th e p ro te c tio n th e y o ffe r and the s u p p o rt th e y give fe e t. Jackets, pants, aprons, side tow e ls, and shoes can h a rbo r b a cte ria , m olds, and p a rasite s. Use hot w ater, a good d e te rg e n t, and a san itize r, such as borax or chlo rine bleach, to rem ove grim e.
regulations, inspection, and certification Federal, s ta te , and local go ve rn m e n t re g u la tio n s w o rk
en viro n m e n t. A m ong OSHA's re g u la tio n s is th e m andate
to ensure th e w holesom eness o f th e fo o d th a t reaches
th a t all places o f e m p lo ym e n t m ust have an adequate
the public. Any new fo o d s e rv ic e business should c o n ta c t
and ea sily accessible firs t-a id k it on th e prem ises. In
the local he alth d e p a rtm e n t w ell in advance o f opening
a d d itio n , i f any o rg a n iza tio n has m ore than ten em ploy
to a sce rta in necessary legal re q u ire m e n ts. Some s ta te s
ees, re co rd s m ust be ke p t o f all accide nts and in juries
and local ju ris d ic tio n s o ffe r s a n ita tio n c e rtific a tio n
to em ployees th a t re q u ire m edical tre a tm e n t. OSHA
program s. R e gu latio ns and te s tin g v a ry fro m area to
co n ce n tra te s its e ffo r ts on p ro v id in g services where the
area. C e rtific a tio n is o fte n available th ro u g h c e rta in
ris k to w o rk e r s a fe ty is g re a te s t.
academ ic in s titu tio n s .
AMERICANS WITH D ISABILITIES ACT (ADA) THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADM IN ISTR ATION (OSHA)
This a ct is in te n d e d to make pu blic places accessible
OSHA is a fe d e ra l o rg a n iza tio n , in s titu te d in 1970,
c o n s tru c tio n o r re m o d e lin g done to a re s ta u ra n t m ust
th a t fa lls under th e p u rvie w o f th e H e alth and Human
m e e t ADA stan dard s. This includes lo c a tin g telephones
and safe f o r th o se w ith a v a rie ty o f d is a b ilitie s . Any new
S ervices A d m in is tra tio n . Its re g u la tio n s help em ployers
so th a t a person in a w h ee lcha ir can reach the m and p ro
and w o rke rs e sta b lish and m a intain a safe, h e a lth y w o rk
v id in g to ile ts w ith handrails.
drugs and alcohol in the workplace One fin a l to p ic th a t is o f g re a t im p o rta n ce in th e w o rk
are slowed, in h ib itio n s are low ered, and ju d g m e n t is
place is th e rig h t o f all w o rke rs to be fre e fro m the
im p aire d. The re s p o n s ib ilitie s o f a p ro fe s s io n a l w o rking
hazards posed by a co w o rke r w ho com es to w o rk under
in any kitch e n are to o g re a t to allow som eone s u ffe rin g
the in flue nce o f drugs o r alcohol. The abuse o f any sub
fro m a substance abuse pro blem to dim inish the resp ect
stance is a serious concern because it can a lte r or im p air
and tr u s t you have b u ilt w ith you r custo m e rs and s ta ff.
one's a b ility to p e rfo rm his o r her jo b . R eaction tim e s
ch a p te r 4 » FOOD A N D K IT C H E N S A F E T Y
V
tools the pr< V J
id ingredients in essional kitchen PART 2
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equipment identification Tools, large and small, make it possible fo r chefs to do their jobs well; in fact, using the right tool for the job is one of the hallmarks of a professional. Equally important is the ability to handle and care for each tool, whether it is a cutting board, a knife, a mandoline, or a stockpot.
knives A ssem b lin g a personal co lle c tio n o f knives is one o f
5. Use an appropriate cutting surface. Cutting directly
the f ir s t ste p s in becom ing a p ro fe ssio n a l. Just as an
on metal, glass, or marble surfaces will dull and even
a r tis t or c ra fts p e rs o n g a th e rs to g e th e r th e to o ls neces
tually damage the blade of a knife. To prevent dulling,
sary fo r pa in ting, scu lp tin g , o r draw ing, you w ill need to
always use wooden or composition cutting boards.
se le ct knives th a t allow you to do your w o rk in th e s a f e st and m o st e ffic ie n t way. The knives you choose w ill becom e as im p o rta n t to you as you r own fin g e rs — qu ite lite ra lly an exte nsio n o f your own hands. 1. Handle knives with respect. Knives can be damaged if
6. Keep knives properly stored. There are a number of safe, practical ways to store knives, including in knife kits or rolls, slots, or racks, and on magnetized hold ers. Storage systems should be kept just as clean as knives.
they are handled carelessly. Even though good-quality knives are manufactured to last a lifetim e, they are still prone to damage if not properly taken care of. 2. Keep knives sharp. Learn the proper techniques for both sharpening and honing knives. A sharp knife not
THE P A R T S O F A KNIFE To se le c t a k n ife o f good q u a lity th a t f it s your hand w e ll and is su ita b le f o r th e in te nd ed task, you need a basic know ledge o f th e variou s p a rts o f a knife.
only performs better, but is safer to use because less effo rt is required to cut through the food. There are
blades
many ways to sharpen knives. Use a stone periodi
C u rrently, th e m o s t fre q u e n tly used m a te ria l f o r blades
cally, a sharpening machine, or send them to a profes
is high-carbon sta in le ss stee l. O th er m a te ria ls, such as
sional cutlery sharpener.
sta in le ss ste e l and carbon stee l, are also available.
3. Keep knives clean. Clean knives thoroughly immedi ately a fte r using them. Sanitize the entire knife, in cluding the handle, bolster, and blade, as necessary, so that the tool will not cross contaminate food. Do not clean knives in a dishwasher.
A ltho ug h carb o n -ste e l blades ta ke a b e tte r edge than e ith e r reg ular o r high-carbon sta in le ss steel, they ten d to lose th e ir sharpness quickly. Also, ca rb o n -ste e l blades w ill d is c o lo r when th e y come in to c o n ta c t w ith acidic foo ds. The m e ta l is b r ittle and can break easily under stress.
4. Use safe handling procedures for knives. There are
Stain le ss ste e l is much s tro n g e r than carbon stee l
standards of behavior that should be remembered
and w ill n o t d is c o lo r o r rust. It is d iff ic u lt to g e t a good
when using knives. When you are passing a knife, lay it
edge on a s ta in le s s -s te e l blade, although once an edge
down on a work surface so that the handle is extended
is e sta blished , it te n d s to la s t longer than th e edge on a
toward the person who will pick it up. Whenever you
c a rb o n -ste e l blade.
must carry a knife from one area of the kitchen to
H igh-carbon stain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly rece nt
another, hold the knife straight down at your side with
d e velopm e nt th a t com bines the advantages o f carbon
the sharp edge facing behind you, and let people know
s te e l and sta in le ss stee l. The higher percentage o f c a r
you are passing by with something sharp. When you
bon allow s the blade to ta ke and keep a keener edge.
lay a knife down on a work surface, be sure that no part of it extends over the edge of the cutting board
The m o st de sira ble ty p e o f blade fo r general use is ta p e r-g ro u n d , m eaning th a t th e blade has been fo rg e d
or worktable. Also, do not cover the knife with food,
o u t o f a single she et o f m e ta l and has been ground so
towels, equipment, and the like. Be sure the blade is
th a t it ta p e rs sm o o th ly fro m th e spine to th e c u ttin g
facing away from the edge of the work surface. Do not
edge, w ith no a p p a re n t beveling.
attem pt to catch a falling knife.
H o llo w -g ro un d blades are m ade by com b in ing tw o sheets o f m etal. The edges are then beveled or flu te d .
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
knives
tangs
TIP
The ta n g is a c o n tin u a tio n o f the blade th a t exte nds in to th e knife 's handle. Knives used f o r heavy w ork, such as c h e fs knives o r cleavers, should have a fu ll tang; th a t is, th e ta n g is a lm o s t as long as th e e n tire handle. A ltho ug h blades w ith p a rtia l tan gs are n o t as durable, th e y are acce ptab le on knives th a t w ill be used less fre q u e n tly . R a t-ta il tan gs are much n a rrow e r than th e spine o f the blade and are encased in th e handle.
handles
CUTTING EDGE
A p re fe rre d m a te ria l f o r k n ife handles is rosew ood, because it is e x tre m e ly hard and has a very t ig h t or
SPINE
fin e grain, w hich helps p re ve n t s p littin g and cracking. Im p re g n a tin g wood w ith p la s tic p ro te c ts th e handle fro m damage caused by con tinu ed exposure to w a te r and d e te rg e n ts. The handle should f i t y ou r hand com fo rta b ly . A c o m fo rta b le f i t w ill reduce fa tig u e . HEEL
rivets
BO LSTER
M e ta l riv e ts are usually used to secure th e ta n g to the handle. The riv e ts should be co m p le te ly sm oo th and lie flu sh w ith th e surface o f th e handle. HANDLE
bolsters
RIVETS
In some knives, th e re is a c o lla r o r shank, known as a b o lste r, a t th e p o in t w here th e blade m ee ts th e handle. This is a sign o f a w e ll-m a d e kn ife . The b o ls te r helps to balance th e k n ife and p ro te c t th e hand fro m accide ntal slips. Some knives m ay have a c o lla r th a t looks like a b o ls te r b u t is a ctu a lly a sep ara te piece a tta ch e d to th e handle. These knives te n d to com e a p a rt easily and
PARTS OF A KNIFE
should be avoided.
c h a p t e r s » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
45
types of knives A wide array of knives is
knife, boning knife, paring knife, and sheer—but also a
available to suit specific functions. As you continue to
number of special knives. This list is intended as a guide
work in professional kitchens, your knife kit will grow
to the knives that may be found in nearly any well-
to encompass not only the basics—chef’s or French
outfitted knife kit.
SCIMITAR
SERRATED SUCERS (painted and round tipped)
C LEA V ER
U TILITY KNIVES
F LE X IB LE SLICER
BONING KNIFE FRENCH KNIVES
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
FLU TED -EDG E SAN TO KU
PARING KNIFE
TOURNE KNIFE
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
chef’s knife/ French knife
Blade 8 - 1 2 inches long
A ll-p u rp o s e kn ife : a v a rie ty o f chop ping, slicing, and m incing chores
utility knife
Sm aller, lig h te r c h e fs k n ife w ith a blade
V arious c u ttin g chores
knives
Common Kitchen Knives
5 - 8 inches long
paring knife
Blade 2 - 4 inches long
P aring and trim m in g ve g e ta b le s and fr u its
boning knife
Blade is th in n e r than th a t o f c h e fs kn ife , ab ou t 6 inches long, and rig id
S e p a ra tin g raw m ea t fro m bone
filleting knife
S im ila r in shape and size to a boning kn ife , b u t th in n e r and w ith a m ore f le x ible blade
F ille tin g fis h
slicer
Long blade w ith a round o r p o in te d tip ; blade may be fle x ib le or rig id , ta p e re d or round, o r have a flu te d edge
S lic in g cooked m eat; also s u ita b le fo r s lic in g fo o d such as sm oked salm on
cleaver
Heavy enough to cu t th ro u g h bones; re c ta n g u la r blade; va rie s in size a c c o rd
C hopping
ing to its in te n d e d use
tourne knife
S im ila r to a pa rin g kn ife ; has curved blade to fa c ilita te c u ttin g curved s u r fa ce s o f to u rn e e d ve g e ta b le s
T ourneeing veg etab le s
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
47
S H A R P E N I N G AND HONI NG
1. Assem ble your m iseen place.
The key to th e p ro p e r and e ffic ie n t use o f any k n ife is
2. Anchor th e stone to keep it fro m slipping as you work.
m aking sure th a t it is sharp. A k n ife w ith a sharp blade
Place carborundum or diam ond stones on a damp
always w o rks b e tte r and m ore s a fe ly because it cuts
clo th or rubber mat. A trip le -fa c e d stone is m ounted
easily. K nife blades are given an edge on a sharpening
on a ro ta tin g fram ew ork th a t can be locked in to posi
ston e and m aintained betw een sharpenings by honing
tio n so th a t it cannot move.
the m w ith a steel. S harpening ston es are e sse ntia l to the p ro p e r m ain
3. Lubricate th e stone w ith m ineral oil or water. Be con s is te n t about th e typ e o f lu brica nt you use on your
tenance o f knives. Sharpen th e blade by passing its edge
stone. W ater or m ineral oil helps reduce fric tio n as
over th e ston e a t a 2 0 -d e g re e angle. The g r it — th e de
you sharpen your knife. The heat caused by fric tio n
gree o f coarseness or fine ne ss o f the stone's su rfa c e —
may not seem sig n ifica n t, b u t it can eventually harm
abrades th e blade's edge, c re a tin g a sharp c u ttin g edge.
th e blade.
When sharpening a kn ife , always begin by using the coa rsest surface o f the stone, and then move on to the
4
fin e r surfaces.
require. The du lle r th e blade, th e coarser th e g rit
A ston e w ith a fin e g r it should be used fo r boning knives and o th e r to o ls on w hich an e sp e cia lly sharp edge is req uire d. M o s t ston es may be used e ith e r dry or
should be. 5
Run th e e n tire edge over the surface o f the stone, keeping th e pressure even on th e knife. Hold the knife
m oiste ne d w ith w a te r or m ineral oil.
a t th e co rre c t angle as you w ork. A 20-degree angle
C arborundum stones have a fin e side and a m edium
is suitable fo r c h e f’s knives and knives w ith sim ilar
side. Arkan sas ston es are available in several grades
blades. You may need to adjust th e angle by a fe w
o f fine ne ss. Some co n sist o f th re e ston es o f varying
degrees to p ro p e rly sharpen th in n e r blades such as
degrees o f fine ne ss m ounted on a wheel. Dia m ond-
slicers, o r th ic k e r blades such as cleavers.
im p re g n a te d stones are also available. A lth o u g h the y are expensive, som e chefs p re fe r the m because the y
Begin sharpening the edge on th e coarsest g r it you
6
fe e l the se stones give a sha rpe r edge.
Alw ays sharpen th e blade in th e same directio n. This ensures th a t th e edge rem ains even and in proper
O pinion is s p lit ab ou t w h e th e r a k n ife blade should
alignm ent.
be run over a ston e fro m heel to tip or tip to heel. M o st chefs do agree th a t con sisten cy in the d ire c tio n o f
7
th e stro k e used to pass th e blade over th e ston e is
on coarse stones. A fte r about te n strokes on each
im p o rta n t.
side o f th e blade, move on to the next fin e r g rit.
B e fo re using a stone, be sure th a t it is p ro p e rly s ta bilized. No m a tte r which m ethod you use, keep th e f o l low ing g uidelines in mind:
Make strokes o f equal num ber and equal pressure on each side o f th e blade. Do not oversharpen th e edge
8
Finish sharpening on th e fin e s t stone then wash and dry th e k n ife th o ro u g h ly b e fore using or sto rin g it.
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
knives
Sharpening method one
1.
Use fo u r fin g e rs o f th e g u id ing hand to m aintain
co n sta n t pressure on th e knife .
2.
3.
Draw th e k n ife o f f th e sto n e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.
Draw th e k n ife across th e ston e gently.
Sharpening method two
1 .
Push th e blade over th e stone's surface, using the
g u id ing hand to keep pre ssure even.
2.
3.
Push th e k n ife o f f th e ston e sm oo th ly. Turn the knife
over and re p e a t th e e n tire process on th e o th e r side.
C ontinue to push th e e n tire le ng th o f th e blade over
th e stone.
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
49
steels a steel should be used both immediately after
Steels come with coarse, medium, and fine grains,
sharpening the blade with a stone and also between
and some are magnetic, which helps the blade maintain
sharpenings to keep the edge in alignment. The length
proper alignment and also collects metal shavings. A
of the steel’s working surface can range from three inches
guard or hilt between the steel and the handle protects
for a pocket version to over fourteen inches. Hard steel
the user, and a ring on the bottom of the handle can be
is the traditional material for steels. Other materials,
used to hang the steel.
such as glass, ceramic, and diamond impregnated sur
When using a steel, hold the knife almost vertically, with the blade at a 20-degree angle, resting on the inner
faces, are also available.
side of the steel. Draw the blade along the entire length of the steel.
MULTISIDED OIL STONE (TRI-STONE)
DIAM OND-IM PREGNATED STONE
CER AM IC STONE
FLAT STEEL
HARD STEEL
DIAMONDIM PREGNATED STEEL
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
CER A M IC STEELS (BLU E AND WHITE)
GA r+ (D Keep the following guidelines in mind:
this could produce a curve in the edge. Keep the knife
» Allow yourself plenty of room as you work, and stand
blade a t a 20 -d e g ree angle to the steel.
with your weight evenly distributed. Hold the steel with
» Use a light touch, stroking evenly and consistently.
your thumb and fingers safely behind the guard.
Lay the blade against the steel; don’t slap it. Listen for a light ringing sound; a heavy grinding sound indicates
» Draw the blade along the steel so th a t the entire edge
th a t too much pressure is being applied.
touches the steel. W ork in the same direction on each side of the blade to keep the edge straight.
^
» Repeat the stroke on the opposite side of the edge to properly straighten the edge. If a blade requires
» Be sure to keep the pressure even to avoid wearing
more than five strokes per side on a steel, it probably
away the m etal in the center of the edge. Over tim e,
should be sharpened on a stone.
Steeling method one
1.
S tart w ith the knife nearly vertical, with the blade
resting on the steel's inner side.
J .
Keep the blade in contact with the steel until the tip
is drawn o ff the steel. Repeat the process with the blade resting on the steel’s outer side.
2.
Rotate the w rist holding the knife as the blade
moves along the steel in a downward motion.
Steeling method two
1.
Hold the steel in a near-vertical position with the
3.
Finish the firs t pass by drawing the blade all the way
tip resting on a nonslippery surface. S ta rt with the heel
along the shaft up to and including the tip. Repeat the
of the knife against one side of the steel.
entire action, this tim e with the blade against the steel’s other side.
2.
Maintain light pressure and use an arm action, not a
w rist action, to draw the knife down the shaft of the steel in a smooth continuous motion.
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
51
hand tools
The object of using a specialized tool
is to make the task at hand easier and more efficient. A
numerous to mention here. Particular preparations will dictate to the chef what hand tools are necessary and
number of small hand tools other than knives belong
individual chefs will have their own particular likes and
in a knife kit. The potential number and kind are too
dislikes.
WIDE PERFORATED O FFSET S PATU LA
FISH S PATU LA
FRENCH ROLLING PINS
S W IVEL-BLAD ED PEE LER S
S AU CE W HISK
O FFSET PA LETTE KN IVES
B A LL-BE A R IN G ROLLING PIN
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
t r p
Common Hand Tools
p Q -
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
rotary peeler/ swivel-bladed peeler
Blade m ay be m ou nted h o riz o n ta lly or v e rtic a lly on th e handle. Blade is t y p i cally 2 - 3 inches long
P eeling skin fro m ve g e ta b le s and
o
fru its . S w ivel a ctio n accom m odates c o n to u rs o f in g re d ie n ts
in
parisienne scoop/ melon bailer
May have one scoop or tw o o f d iffe re n t sizes, between ’A and 3A inch in d iam e te r
S coo ping o u t balls o r ovals fro m veg e ta b le s and fr u its
kitchen fork
A fo rk w ith tw o long tin e s a p p ro xim a te ly 4 - 6 inches long
T esting doneness o f braised m eats and veg etab le s; liftin g fin is h e d item s to th e ca rvin g board o r plate; holding an ite m being carved in place
palette knife/ metal spatula
F le xib le ro u n d -tip p e d to o l; may be f la t o r o ffs e t. Blade is be tw ee n 4 and 5 inches long and V i- V i inch w ide
r+
In th e kitc h e n and bakeshop, sp re a d in g fillin g s and glazes; placing garnishes; p o rtio n in g ; and a v a rie ty o f o th e r fu n c tio n s
whisks
Balloon w h isks are sphere shaped and have th in w ire s to in c o rp o ra te a ir when m aking foa m s. Sauce w h isks are n a r ro w e r and fre q u e n tly have th ic k e r w ires
Beating, blending, and w h ipp in g
offset spatula
Blade is chisel edged, be tw ee n 9 and 10
Turning or lift in g fo o d s on g rills, b ro ile rs , and g rid d le s
inches long and 3 - 4 inches w ide, s e t in a s h o rt handle
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF ROLLING PINS Rolling pins are made from hard, tight-
The two basic types of rolling pins are
grained woods, which prevent fats and
the French-style pin and the rod-and-bear-
flavorings used in rolled doughs from pen
ing (ball-bearing) pin. The French pin is a
etrating the pin. Rolling pins should never be
long cylinder of wood rolled over the dough
washed with water. Doing this could ruin the
with the palms of the hands. The second
integrity of the pin by warping or distorting
type is heavier and wider. It has a length wise shaft at the center of the wooden cyl
the grain of the wood. Always use a dry cloth to wipe the pin clean immediately after use.
inder through which runs a metal rod with
Damage to the surface of the pin will relay
two wooden handles at either end.
imperfections to the dough being rolled.
c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
53
measuring equipment
Among the most common and useful measuring
Measurements
are determined in many different ways in a professional
equipment are the following: measuring pitchers (to
kitchen. This makes it important to have equipment for
measure liquid volumes); spring, balance beam, and
liquid and dry volume measures calibrated for both the
electronic scales (to weigh ingredients for preparation
U.S. and metric systems, as well as a variety of scales for
and finished items for portion control); instant-read,
accurate measurement by weight.
candy, and deep-fat thermometers (to measure internal temperatures); and measuring spoons.
SPRING SCA LE
B A LA N C E B EA M SC A LE
ELECTRONIC SCA LE
M EASUR ING PITCHERS
M EASUR IN G SPO O NS C A N D Y/D EEP-FA T TH ER M O M ETER
INSTANT-READ T H ER M O M ET ER S
PRO BE TH ER M O M ETER
54
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
Sieves and strainers
pureeing food. The openings in the cone can vary in size from very large to very small. The colander, available in
ties from dry ingredients. They are also used to drain or
a variety of sizes, is a stainless-steel or aluminum sieve,
puree cooked or raw foods. The delicate mesh of some
with or without a base, used to strain or drain foods. The
strainers is highly vulnerable to damage; never drop these
ricer is a device with a pierced hopper in which cooked
into a pot sink, where they could be crushed or torn. The food mill is a type of strainer used to puree soft
food, often potatoes, is placed. A plate on the end of a lever pushes the food through the holes in the hopper.
foods. A flat, curving blade is rotated over a disk by a
Cheesecloth is light, fine-mesh cotton gauze, frequently
hand-operated crank. Most professional models have
used with or in place of a fine conical sieve. It is essen
interchangeable disks with holes of varying fineness. The
tial for straining some sauces. It is also used for making
drum sieve ( tamis) consists of a tinned-steel, nylon, or
sachets. Before use, cheesecloth should be rinsed thor
stainless-steel screen stretched in an aluminum or wood
oughly in hot water and then cold water to remove any
frame. A drum sieve is used for sifting or pureeing. The
loose fibers. Cheesecloth also clings better to the sides of
conical sieve ( chinois) is used for straining and/or
bowls, sieves, and so forth when it is wet.
sieves and strainers
sieves and strainers
are used to sift, aerate, and help remove any large impuri
FOOD M ILL
CO NICAL S IEV ES
BLA N D ER
RICER
CHEESECLO TH
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55
pots, pans, and molds Various m aterials and com binations o f m aterials are used
o f heat, b u t it is o fte n used because it has o th e r advan
in the con stru ction o f pots, pans, and molds. Because fo rm
tages, includ in g easy m aintenance. O th er m etals, such
and fu n ctio n are closely related, it is im p o rta n t to choose
as alum inum or copper, are o fte n sandw iched w ith s ta in
the pro pe r equipm ent fo r the ta sk a t hand. Pots m ade o f c op pe r tra n s fe r heat ra p id ly and evenly b u t because d ire c t c o n ta c t w ith cop pe r w ill a f fe c t th e co lo r and co n siste n cy o f m any foo ds, copper
less ste e l to im prove heat conduction. S tain le ss stee l w ill n o t re a ct w ith foo ds; f o r exam ple, w h ite sauces w ill rem ain pure w h ite o r ivory. B lu e-stee l, b la ck-ste e l, p re sse d -ste e l, o r ro lle d -
p o ts are g e ne rally lined. (An e xce p tio n is a copper pan
ste e l pans are all prone to d is c o lo ra tio n b u t tra n s m it
used to cook jam s, je llie s , cho colates, and o th e r high-
heat very rapidly. These pans are g e ne rally th in and are
sugar item s, o fte n known as a p re se rvin g pan.) G reat
o fte n p re fe rre d f o r sau tein g foo ds.
care m ust be take n n o t to scratch linings made o f s o ft
A lum inum is also an e xce lle n t co n d u cto r o f heat.
m e ta l such as tin . If th e linin g becom es scratche d or
However, it is a s o ft m e ta l th a t wears down quickly.
w ears away, it may be re p a ire d by re tin n in g . Copper also
When a m e ta l spoon o r w hip is used to s tir a w h ite or
te n d s to disco lo r quickly; its p ro p e r upkeep requires
lig h t-c o lo re d sauce, soup, or s to c k in an alum inum pot,
s ig n ific a n t tim e and labor.
th e fo o d m ay ta ke on a gray color. Alum inum also rea cts
Cast iron has th e ca p a city to hold heat w e ll and
w ith acidic fo o d s. A nodized or tre a te d alum inum ten ds
tra n s m it it very evenly. The m e ta l is som ew hat b r ittle
no t to rea ct, and is one o f the m o st p o pu lar m etals fo r
and m ust be tre a te d c a re fu lly to p re ve n t p ittin g , sca r
p o ts used in c o n te m p o ra ry kitchens.
ring, and rustin g. Cast iron coa ted w ith enam el is easier
N o n stick coa ting s on pans have some use in p ro fe s
to clean b u t loses som e o f its n o n stick p ro p e rtie s and
sional kitche ns, e sp ecially f o r re s ta u ra n ts th a t o ffe r
cannot w ith s ta n d as high a te m p e ra tu re as u n tre a te d
fo o d s cooked w ith less f a t and oil. However, the se su r
ca st iron. S tain le ss ste e l is a re la tiv e ly p o o r c o n d u cto r
face s are n o t as s tu rd y as m e ta l linings.
PROPER CARE AND CLEANING OF COPPER PANS This technique for cleaning and shining
agent, and the flour provides the binder.
copper cookware has been used by chefs
Coat copper surfaces completely with this
for many years and is still favored because
paste, then vigorously massage them clean
it is fast, inexpensive, and efficient. Mix
with a cloth. Clean the interior cooking
equal parts of flour and salt, and then add
surfaces as you would other pots and pans,
enough distilled white vinegar to form a
with a gentle scouring pad and cleanser.
paste. The vinegar will react with the cop
NOTE: Delicate copper serving dishes
per to erase any discoloration caused by oxidation and heat. Any other acid, such
and utensils should be cleaned with a com mercial cream or polish without abrasives,
as lemon juice, would work equally well,
to avoid scratching.
but white vinegar is typically the most eco nomical choice. The salt acts as a scouring
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
stockpot/marmite
Large po t, ta lle r tha n it is w ide, w ith s tra ig h t sides; m ay have a s p ig o t
saucepan
Has s tra ig h t or s lig h tly fla re d sides and a sin gle long handle
sauce pot
S im ila r to a s to c k p o t in shape, a lth ou gh n o t as large; has s tra ig h t sides and tw o loop handles
rondeau
W ide, fa irly shallow p o t w ith tw o loop handles. W hen m ade fro m cast iron, f r e q u e n tly known as a "g risw o ld "; may have a sin gle s h o rt handle ra th e r than tw o loop handles. A b ra sie r is sim ila r; may be square in ste a d o f round
sauteuse/saute pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith slo p in g sides and a sin gle long handle
sautoir/fry pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith s tra ig h t sides and a single long handle
omelet pan/ crepe pan
S hallow s k ille t w ith ve ry sh o rt, s lig h tly slo p in g sides; m o st o fte n made o f ro lle d or blue s te e l
bain-marie/double boiler
N e stin g p o ts w ith single long handle. "B a in -m a rie " also re fe rs to s ta in le s s -s te e l co n ta in e rs used to hold fo o d in a stea m ta b le
griddle
F la t w ith no sides; may be b u ilt d ire c tly in to th e stove
fish poacher
Long, n a rrow lid d e d p o t w ith s tra ig h t sides; includes a p e rfo ra te d rack f o r holding fis h
steamer
P air o f sta cke d p o ts; lid d e d to p p o t has a p e rfo ra te d b o tto m . Also, bam boo basket w ith t ig h t - f it t in g lid; can s it in a w ok
‘
pots, pans, and molds
Stovetop Pots and Pans
SEASONING PANS Chefs who use pans made of cast iron or
one hour. Remove the pan from the oven
rolled steel often season their pans to seal
and let it cool. Wipe away any excess oil
the pores. Seasoning preserves the cooking
with paper towels. Repeat the procedure
surface and essentially creates a nonstick
every so often to renew the seal. To clean a
coating. To season a pan, pour enough cooking oil into the pan to evenly coat the
seasoned pan, use a bundle of paper towels to scour salt over the surface of the pan un
bottom to a depth of about Va in/6 mm.
til the food particles have been removed.
Place the pan in a 3OO0F/i49°C oven for
c h a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
57
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
some applications, but these surfaces are not as sturdy
Pots and pans used on the stovetop may be made from
as metal, so another choice for nonstick cookery would
a variety of materials, but they must be able to with
be cast iron. Blue-steel and black-steel, pressed-steel,
stand direct heat from a flame. A poorly produced pot
or rolled-steel pans are often preferred for sauteing be
will have weak spots and will warp. Pans may be made
cause of their quick response to changes in temperature. When choosing a pot or pan, consider the following
of many different materials, and selection in large part weighs on preference. Heat conductivity and evenness
information:
of heat transfer are important to consider as well as the
l.
maintenance of the pan; for example, copper is great
Be familiar with the capacity of various pots, pans, and
for conductivity but requires significant time and labor
molds. If too many pieces of meat are crowded into a
for proper upkeep. Nonstick coatings may be useful for
sauteuse, for instance, the food will not brown properly.
Choose a size appropriate to the food being cooked.
S A U CE POT WITH LID RONDEAU
S A U CEPAN WITH LID
NONSTICK S AU TEU SE
TWO NESTED STAIN LESSSTEEL SAU T EU SE S
58
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
that the pot transmit heat evenly and hold it well than
drippings from the meat) could scorch. If a small fish is
respond rapidly to changes in heat.
poached in a large pot, the cuisson (cooking liquid) will
3.
not have the proper intensity of flavor.
niques. Avoid subjecting pots to heat extremes and rapid
2. Choose material appropriate to the cooking tech
changes in temperature (e.g., placing a smoking-hot pot
Use proper handling, cleaning, and storing tech
nique. Experience has shown, and science has verified,
into a sinkful of water) because some materials are prone
that certain cooking techniques are more successful
to warping. Other materials may chip or even crack if al
when used with certain materials. For instance, sauteed
lowed to sit over heat when they are empty or if they are
foods require pans that transmit heat quickly and are sen
handled roughly. Casseroles or molds made of enameled
sitive to temperature changes. Braises, on the other hand,
cast iron or steel are especially vulnerable.
require long, fairly gentle cooking; it is more important
STOCKPOT WITH LID
pots and pans for stovetop cooking
If the sauteuse is too large, however, the fond (Maillard
BAM BO O S T EA M ER
FISH PO ACHER
SAUTOIR WITH LID
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59
pans for oven cooking
Pans used in
they transfer heat more evenly. Regarding heat conduc
ovens are produced from the same basic materials used
tivity, some metals heat faster than others. Aluminum
to make stovetop pots and pans. Glazed and unglazed
heats quickly but is susceptible to burning food if it is a
earthenware, glass, and ceramics are also used. The heat
light gauge. On the other hand, stainless steel is a poor
of the oven is less intense than that of a burner, making
conductor of heat but works best for baking in a lighter
it possible to use these more delicate materials without
gauge. Tin is a good conductor of heat, while materials
risk of cracking or shattering. Metal pans are available
such as glass, ceramic, and earthenware hold heat well
in several gauges (gauge refers to the thickness of the
but transfer it poorly.
metal). Heavy-gauge pans are usually preferred because
SPRIN G FO RM PAN STACKED FROM BOTTOM TO TOP: M UFFIN TIN, LO OSE-BOTTOM ED TART PAN, C A K E PANS
B U N D TPA N
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
LO AF PAN
pots and pans for oven coo
ROASTING PAN
PATE EN CROUTE MOLD
P U L LM A N LO A F PAN
GRATIN DISHES. RA M EK IN S (NESTED IN THE GRATIN DISH)
F LE X IB LE SILICONE MOLD
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6l
Oven Pans and Molds 1 NAME(S)
roasting pan
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
R e cta ng ula r pan w ith m ed iu m -h ig h sides;
R o astin g or baking
com es in va rio u s sizes
sheet pan
V ery sha llo w re c ta n g u la r pan; m ay be fu ll or h a lf size
Baking; storag e
hotel pan/ steam table pan/ chafing dish
R e cta ng ula r pans, a va ila ble in a w ide range o f sizes. C hafing dishes and h o te l pans are usually o f sta n d a rd sizes, so m o st o f the m w ill f i t to g e th e r p ro p e rly
O ccasionally f o r p re p a rin g fo o d s b u t m ore o fte n to hold cooked fo o d s in stea m ta b le s, h o t boxes, o r e le c tric o r gas steam ers. F re q u e n tly used to hold m eats being m a rin a te d and f o r re frig e ra te d fo o d storag e
pate mold
terrine mold
Deep re c ta n g u la r m e ta l m old, usually has hinged sides to fa c ilita te rem oval o f the pate. S pecial shapes may be ava ila ble
C ooking pate en cro u te
M ay be re c ta n g u la r or oval, w ith a lid.
C ooking o r m o ld in g te rrin e s
T ra d itio n a lly e a rth en w are , may also be enam eled cast iron
gratin dish
S hallow oval baking dish; ceram ic, enam eled cast iron, o r enam eled ste e l
ramekin
Round, s tra ig h t-s id e d ceram ic dish; comes in variou s sizes
Baking g ra tin s
Baking s o u ffle s; som etim es fo r m olding fro ze n s o u ffle s; sauce cups; baked custard; baked or chilled pud dings; g ra tins; and a v a rie ty o f o th e r uses
timbale mold
Sm all m e ta l o r ceram ic m old
M o ld in g in d ivid u a l p o rtio n s o f fo o d s
flexible silicone mold
A vaila ble in d iffe r e n t sizes and shapes
F orm ing fo o d s in to a v a rie ty o f shapes; can be used a t high te m p e ra tu re s and f o r fre e z in g
cake pan
S tra ig h t sided; a va ila ble in va rio u s sizes and shapes. Can be used in a w a te r bath
Baking cakes, cheesecakes, and som e ro lls
springform pan
S im ila r to cake pan, b u t w ith sep a ra te b o t to m . Sides have s p rin g to release f o r easy rem oval
Baking cakes
loose-bottomed tart pan
S hallow pan w ith rem o vab le b o tto m . Sides may be flu te d or s tra ig h t, and are g e n e r a lly s h o rte r tha n th o se o f pie pans. M ay be round, rectan gu lar, or square
B aking ta rts
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
pie pan
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
Round pan w ith fla re d sides; d e e p e r than
Baking pies and quiches
t a r t pan; a va ila ble in a v a rie ty o f sizes
loaf pan
Deep pan, usually rectan gu lar. Sides may
Baking breads and m eatloaves
be s tra ig h t o r s lig h tly fla re d
Pullman loaf pan
R e cta ng ula r pan w ith lid; pro du ces f la tto p p e d loaves
B aking s p e c ia lty bread
Pan w ith sm all, round de pre ssion s, w hich
B aking m u ffin s and cupcakes
'
muffin tin
com e in d iffe re n t sizes
Bundt pan tube pan
Deep, round pan w ith tu b e in th e center. M ay have o rn a te shapes
C re a tin g a s p e c ific shape o f cake,
Deep, round pan w ith s tra ig h t sides and tu b e in th e center. Some are s im ila r to s p rin g fo rm pans, w ith rem o vab le sides
B aking angel fo o d cake, pound cakes, o r c h iffo n cakes
pots, pans, and molds
NAME(S)
in clu d in g c h iffo n and pound cakes
ch a p te r 5 » E Q U I P M E N T I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
63
large equipment When working with large equipment, safety precautions
CONVECTION STEAMER Steam is generated in a
must be observed and proper maintenance and cleaning
boiler, then piped to the cooking chamber, where
done consistently.
it is vented over the food. Pressure does not build
1. Obtain proper instruction in the machine’s safe operation. 2. First turn o ff and then unplug electrical equipment before assembling it or breaking it down.
up in the unit; it is continuously exhausted, which means the door may be opened at any tim e w ithout danger of scalding or burning. DEEP-FAT FRYER This consists of a gas or electric heating elem ent and a large stainless-steel res
3. Use all safety features: Be sure that lids are secure,
ervoir th a t holds the fa t. A th erm ostat allows the
hand guards are used, and the machine is stable.
user to control the tem perature of the fat. S tain
4. Clean and sanitize the equipment thoroughly a fter each use. 5. Be sure that all pieces of equipment are properly re assembled and left unplugged a fte r each use. 6. Report any problems or malfunctions promptly, and alert coworkers to the problem.
less-steel w ire mesh baskets are used to lower and lift foods into and out of the fat.
R AN GE S A N D OVENS The stovetop is known as the range; the oven is usually below the range. However, there are a number of varia tions on this standard arrangement. Gas or electric ranges are available in many sizes and with d ifferen t
KE T TL ES A N D S T E A M E R S Kettles and steamers enable a chef to prepare large amounts of food efficiently, since the heat is applied over a much larger area than is possible when a single burner is used. Cooking times are often shorter than when using the stovetop.
combinations of open burners, flatto ps (not to be con fused with griddle units), and ring tops. Open burners and ring tops supply direct heat, which is easy to change and control. Flattops provide indirect heat, which is more even and less intense than direct heat. Foods th at require long, slow cooking, such as stocks, are more effectively cooked on a flatto p. Small units known as
STEAM-JACKETED KETTLE This freestanding
candy stoves or stockpot ranges have rings of gas jets
or tabletop ke ttle circulates steam through the
or removable rings under a flatto p, allowing for excel
double-sided walls, providing even heat. Units
lent heat control. Ovens cook foods by surrounding them
vary; they may tilt, may be insulated, and may have
with hot air, a gentler and more even source of heat than
spigots or lids. Available in a range of sizes, these
the direct heat of a burner.
kettles are excellent fo r producing stocks, soups, and sauces.
OPEN-BURNER RANGE This type of range has individual g rate-style burners th at allow fo r easy
TILTING KETTLE This large, relatively shallow
adjustm ent of heat.
freestanding unit (also known as a Swiss brasier, tiltin g skillet, or tiltin g fry pan) is used fo r braising, stewing, and sauteing large quantities of meats or vegetables at one tim e. M ost tiltin g kettles have lids, allowing fo r steaming as well. PRESSURE STEAMER W ater is heated under pressure in a sealed com partm ent, allowing it to reach tem peratures above the boiling point,
FLATTOP RANGE This consists of a thick plate of cast iron or steel set over the heat source. Flattops give relatively even and consistent heat but do not allow fo r quick adjustm ents of tem perature. RING-TOP RANGE This is a fla tto p with plates th at can be removed to widen the opening, supplying more or less heat.
2 1 2 °F /1 0 0 °C . Cooking tim e is controlled by auto
INDUCTION COOKTOP This relies on the magnetic
matic tim ers, which open the exhaust valves at the
attractio n between the cooktop and steel or cast
end.
iron in the pan to generate heat. The cooktop itself remains cool. Reaction tim e is significantly fas ter
TO O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
P i -i
than fo r traditional burners. Pans containing cop
as a setting in a gas or electric oven. If the broiler
per or aluminum may not be used.
is contained as a separate unit, it is known as a
CONVECTION OVEN Fans force hot air to circulate around the food, cooking it evenly and quickly. Some convection ovens have the capacity to intro duce moisture. C O NVEN TIO NAL/DECK OVEN The heat source is located on the bottom , underneath the deck (floor) of the oven. Heat is conducted through the deck to the cavity. Conventional ovens can be located below a range top or as separate shelves arranged one above another. The la tte r are known as deck
salamander and is used prim arily to finish or glaze
£ SMOKERS
R EF R I G E R A T I O N E Q U I P M E N T
consist of two to four decks, although single-deck
storage must be evaluated and coordinated. All units should be maintained property, which means regular and thorough cleaning. W ALK-IN This is the largest style of refrigeration
and convection oven. It can be used in steam mode,
unit and usually has shelves arranged around the
hot-air convection mode, or h eat/s te am (combi)
walls. It is possible to zone a walk-in to maintain
mode.
appropriate tem perature and humidity levels for
generate microwave radiation, which cooks or re heats foods very quickly. Some models double as convection ovens.
GR ID DL E S AND G R I L L S Two other range/oven features, the griddle and the grill, are part of the traditional commercial foodservice setup. GRIDDLE Sim ilar to a fla tto p range, a griddle has a heat source located beneath a thick plate of metal, generally cast iron or steel. The food is cooked di rectly on the griddle surface. G R ILL/B R O ILE R /S A LA M A N D E R In a grill, the heat source is located below a rack; in a broiler or salamander, the heat source is above. Some units
rD
evenly.
Maintaining adequate refrigerated storage is crucial to
MICROWAVE OVEN This oven uses ele ctricity to
13
operated at either cool or hot tem peratures. Smokers generally have racks or hooks th at allow foods to smoke
any foodservice operation; therefore, the menu and the
either gas or electricity, is a combination steam er
i—*■
A true smoker will tre a t foods with smoke and can be
instead of on a wire rack. Deck ovens normally
COMBI OVEN This piece of equipment, powered by
n>
foods.
ovens, and the food is placed directly on the deck
models are available.
QTQ ft)
storing various foods. Some walk-ins are large enough to accomm odate rolling carts fo r addi tional storage. Some have pass-through or reach-in doors to fa c ilita te access to frequ en tly required items. W alk-ins may be situated in the kitchen or outside the facility. REACH-IN A reach-in may be a single unit or part of a bank of units, available in many sizes. Units w ith pass-through doors are especially helpful for the pantry area, where cold items can be retrieved by the w ait s ta ff as needed. O N-SITE REFRIGERATION R efrigerated drawers or undercounter reach-ins allow ingredients to be held on the line at the proper tem perature. PORTABLE REFRIGERATION A refrigerated cart can be placed as needed in the kitchen.
have adjustable racks th a t allow the food to be
DISPLAY REFRIGERATION Display cases are gen
raised or lowered to control cooking speed. Some
erally used in the dining room fo r desserts, salads,
grills burn wood, charcoal, or both, but units in
or salad bars.
restaurants are o ften either gas or electric fired, with ceramic "rocks” th at create a bed of coals to produce the e ffe c t of a charcoal grill. Broilers radi ate an intense heat from above and can be found
Chapter 5 » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
65
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment Grinders, slicers, and pureeing equipment all have the potential to be extremely dangerous. As these tools are essential for a number of operations, all chefs should be able to use them with confidence.
FOOD PRO CESSO R
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
BLENDER
grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipment
IMM ERSION BLEN D ER
STANDING M IXER AND ATTACHM ENTS
c h a p t e r s » E Q U I P M E N T ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
67
Grinding, Slicing, Mixing, and Pureeing Equipment NAME(S)
CHARACTERISTICS
COMMON USES
blender
C o nsists o f a base th a t houses th e m o t o r and a rem o vab le lid d e d ja r w ith a
and e m u ls ify in g fo o d s
E xce lle n t f o r pureeing, liq u e fyin g ,
p ro p e lle r-lik e blade in its b o tto m . Speed s e ttin g s f o r m o to r are in base. Jars made o f sta in le ss stee l, p la stic, o r glass; a va ila ble in several cap a citie s
food processor
immersion blender/ hand blender/stick blender/burr mixer
M o to r housed in base, s e p a ra te ly fro m rem o vab le bowl, blade, and lid. M ay have
G rinding, pureeing, blending, em u l sify in g , crushing, and kneading. W ith
e xtra d isks f o r spe cia lize d c u ttin g
special disks: slicing, ju lie nn ing , and shre dd ing
Long, sle n d e r one-piece m achine; like an in v e rte d blender. Top houses m o to r, w hich ge n e ra lly runs a t only one
Pureeing, liq u e fy in g , and e m u ls ify in g large ba tches o f fo o d d ire c tly in the co o kin g vessel
speed. P la stic handle w ith o n /o ff sw itch exte n d s fro m to p o f housing. S ta in le sss te e l d riv e s h a ft exte n d s fro m m o to r and ends w ith blade, w hich is im m e rsed in th e fo o d
vertical chopping machine (VCM)
food chopper/ buffalo chopper
M o to r in base is p e rm a n e n tly a tta ch e d to bow l w ith in te g ra l blades. As a s a fe ty p re ca u tio n , hinged lid m ust be locked in place b e fo re u n it w ill op e ra te
G rinding, w h ip p in g em u lsifyin g , blending, crushing large q u a n titie s
Food is placed in a ro ta tin g bow l th a t passes under a hood, w h ere blades chop th e fo o d . Some have hoppers or fee d
C hopping large q u a n titie s o f foo d; w ith special disks: slicin g or g ra tin g
o f fo o d
tu b e s and in te rch a n g e a b le disks. A v a il able in flo o r and ta b le to p m odels
food sheer/ meat slicer
C a rrie r moves fo o d back and fo r th
mandoline
Blades o f high -carbo n stee l. Levers ad ju s t blades to achieve cu t and th ickn e ss de sire d. Guard p ro v id e s s a fe ty
S licing, ju lie n n in g , c u ttin g g a u fr e tte s
stand mixer
E le c tric m achine has large d e tacha ble bow l o f v a ryin g ca p a citie s (5 -q u a rt, 1 0 -q u a rt, 2 0 -q u a rt, 4 0 -q u a rt, etc.). A t ta ch m e n ts: whip, paddle, dough hook. Bow l is locked in place and a tta c h m e n t ro ta te s th ro u g h b a tte r o r dough
M ixing, be atin g, w h ipp in g, kneading
meat grinder
M ay be fre e s ta n d in g m achine o r a tta c h m e n t f o r a sta n d in g m ixer. Should have disks o f va ry in g sizes; in general w ill have a fe e d tra y and a pusher
G rinding; s tu ffin g sausage casings (w ith a tta c h m e n t)
S licin g fo o d s in even thickn esse s
ag ainst c irc u la r blade, g e n e ra lly made o f carbon ste e l. Guard pro vid es s a fe ty
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
and b a to n n e ts
meat, poultry, and game identification For most restaurants, the purchase, preparation, and service of meats is one of the most expensive areas of the business— but also one of the most potentially profitable. In order to get the most value out of the meats purchased, it is imp to understand how to select the right cut for a particular cooking method.
CHAPTER 6
meat basics The m eat, p o u ltry , and game cuts th a t a re s ta u ra n t
V acuum -packed m eats can be sto re d d ire c tly in the
should buy w ill depend upon th e na ture o f the p a rtic u la r
package, as long as it has n o t been pu ncture d or ripped.
op era tion. A re s ta u ra n t fe a tu rin g p re d o m in a n tly a la
Once unw rapped, m eats should be rew rapped in a ir-p e r
m in ute p re p a ra tio n s — e sp e cia lly one w ith a p re p o n d e r
m eable paper, such as butcher's paper, because a irtig h t
ance o f g rille d or sauteed ite m s — w ill need to purchase
c o n ta in e rs p ro m o te b a c te ria l g ro w th th a t could re s u lt in
e x tre m e ly te n d e r (and m ore expensive) cuts. A re s ta u
spoilage or co n ta m in a tio n .
ran t th a t uses a v a rie ty o f tech niq ue s may be able to use
V a rie ty m eats, p o u ltry , and uncured po rk pro du cts,
some le ss-te n d e r c u ts — fo r exam ple, th e veal shank in a
w hich have s h o rt s h e lf lives, should be cooked as soon
braise such as osso buco.
as po ssib le a fte r th e y are received. M e a t sto re d a t the
M ea ts can be purchased in a num ber o f fo rm s and at
p ro p e r te m p e ra tu re and under o p tim a l co n d itio n s can
va ryin g degrees o f readiness to cook. The ch e f should
be held f o r several days w ith o u t no tice a b le loss o f qual
con sid er several fa c to rs when de cid ing w h a t ty p e o f
ity. M e a t can also be fro z e n f o r longer storage.
m ea t to buy. S torage cap acity, th e e q u ip m e n t req uire d to pre pa re a menu item , th e kitch e n s t a f fs a b ility to fa b ric a te cuts, and th e volum e o f m ea t re q u ire d m ust
» REFRIGERATED: 28 ° TO B 2 °F /-2 °T O 0°C » FROZEN: 0° TO 2 0 ° F /- 1 8 ° TO -7°C
all be take n in to con sid e ra tio n . Once th is in fo rm a tio n is evaluated, th e ch e f can d e te rm in e w h e th e r it is m ore econom ical to purchase large pieces, such as w hole legs o f veal, or p re fa b ric a te d m eats, such as veal already cut in to a to p round, o r p re c u t scaloppini. M e a ts should be checked fo r w holesom eness and freshness. Cut surface s should appear m o ist, b u t not shiny. The m eat should have a good color, which varies by ty p e as w ell as by cut. The m ea t should also sm ell ap pealing. Packaged m eats should arrive w ith th e packag ing in ta c t w ith no pu ncture s or tea rs. The ta b le s accom panying th e fo llo w in g se ctio n s con tain key pieces o f in fo rm a tio n ab ou t beef, veal, pork, and lamb, ad ap te d fro m The M e a t Buyer's Guide by the N o rth A m erican M e a t P rocessors A sso cia tio n (NAMP), includ in g ite m num bers as assigned by th e N AM P and an average range in size f o r a cut. A p p ro p ria te cooking m ethods fo r v ariou s cuts have also been included.
STORAGE
I N S P EC TI ON AND GR AD IN G G overnm ent in sp e ctio n o f all m eats is m andatory. Insp ection s are re q u ire d a t various tim e s: a t th e slaugh te rh o u se (a n te m o rte m ) and again a fte r b u tch e rin g (po stm o rte m ). This is done to ensure th a t th e anim al is fre e fro m disease and th a t th e m ea t is w holesom e and f i t f o r human con sum p tion. Insp ection is a service paid fo r by ta x dollars. Some s ta te s have re linq uished the re s p o n s ib ility fo r in sp e ctin g m eats to fe d e ra l in spe cto rs. Those sta te s th a t s till a d m in is te r th e ir own in sp e ctio n s o f m eat m ust at le a st m eet, if n o t exceed, the acce pted fe d e ra l standards. Q u a lity grading, however, is n o t m andatory. The U.S. D e p a rtm e n t o f A g ric u ltu re (USDA) has developed s p e c ific sta n d a rd s to assign grades to m eats and tra in s graders. The packer may, however, choose n o t to hire a USDA g ra de r and may fo rg o g ra ding in fa v o r o f the use o f an in-house brand name instead. The costs involved
M eats, p o u ltry , and game should be w rapped and sto re d
in gra ding m ea ts are absorbed by th e in dividu al m eat
under re frig e ra tio n . W hen possible, th e y should be held
packer, n o t th e taxp ayer, since th is process is volun ta ry.
in a separate unit, o r a t le a st in a sep a ra te p a rt o f the cooler. They should always be placed on tra y s to pre ven t the m fro m d rip p in g o n to o th e r fo o d s o r th e flo o r. The ch e f should sep ara te d iffe re n t kinds o f m eats;
Depending upon th e p a rtic u la r animal, th e grader w ill consider overall carcass shape, ra tio o f fa t to lean, ra tio o f m eat to bone, color, and m arbling o f lean flesh. The grade placed on a p a rticu la r carcass is then applied to all
f o r exam ple, p o u ltry should n o t com e in to co n ta c t
the cuts fro m th a t animal. In beef, only a sm all percentage
w ith beef, or p o rk p ro d u c ts in to c o n ta c t w ith any o th e r
o f m eats produced is graded prim e. Choice and select
m eats. This w ill p re ve n t cross co n ta m in a tio n .
are m ore o fte n available. Grades lower than select are
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
p o u ltry , and som e game are cu s to m a rily used fo r kosher
im portance to the re sta u ra n t (or re ta il) industry.
p re p a ra tio n s. Kosher m eats are bu tchere d fro m ani
Some m eats may also receive yie ld grades. This
m als s la u g h te re d by a shohet, o r by a spe cia lly train ed
grade is o f th e g re a te s t s ig n ifica n ce to w holesalers. It
rabbi. The anim al m ust be k ille d w ith a single s tro k e o f a
in dica tes th e am o un t o f salable m eat in re la tio n to the
kn ife , the n fu lly bled. A ll th e veins and a rte rie s m ust be
to ta l w e ig h t o f th e carcass. B utch ers re fe r to th is as
rem oved fro m th e m eat. This process w ould e sse n tia lly
"cu ta b ility." In o th e r w ords, it is a m easure o f th e yie ld o f
m u tila te th e fle s h o f loins and legs o f b e e f and veal;
edible m eat fro m each pound o f th e carcass.
th e re fo re , th e se are g e n e ra lly n o t sold as kosher.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF MEAT
OF F AL
A fte r sla ug hterin g, in spe ction, and grading, the anim al
O ffa l can b e s t be de scrib ed as th e ed ib le by-p ro d u cts
carcass is cu t in to m anageable pieces. Sides are p re
o f a m ea t carcass. Exam ples include organ m eats such
pared by m aking a cu t down th e length o f th e backbone.
as th e liver, kidney, he art, brain, trip e , ce rta in glands,
Each side is cu t in to tw o pieces to make qu a rte rs, d iv id
and in te s tin a l tra c ts . In a d d itio n , th e cheeks, ta il, and
ing th e sides betw een s p e c ific ve rte b ra e . Saddles are
ton gue are p a rt o f th e o ffa l cate gory. O ffa l is generally
made by c u ttin g th e anim al across th e belly, again a t a
inexpensive b u t re q u ire s some s k ill to cook properly.
s p e c ifie d p o in t. The exa ct stan dard s f o r in d ivid u a l an i
Organ m eats are com posed o f fib e rs th a t are d iffe re n t
mal typ e s govern w here th e carcass is to be divided.
fro m th o se o f lean m uscle. M em branes, blood vessels,
The ne xt ste p is to cu t th e anim al in to w h a t are re
and con ne ctive tissu e s need to be rem oved fro m livers
fe rre d to as p rim a l cuts. There are u n ifo rm stan dard s fo r
and kidneys. Organ m eats, such as th e live r and kidneys,
beef, veal, pork, and lam b prim als. These large cuts are
are high in iron, w hich tra n s la te s in to rich flavo r. The ta il
the n fu rth e r broken down in to sub prim a ls. S ubprim als
has some m ea t and a lo t o f collagen and is ty p ic a lly used
are g e ne rally trim m e d and packed as fo o d se rvice , value
fo r rich braises.
added, o r HRI (H o te l, R estaurant, and In s titu tio n ) cuts.
In m any cu ltu re s, o ffa l is considered a delicacy.
There m ay be even m ore fa b ric a tio n o r b u tch e rin g done
Some o ffa l is con sid ered th e e p ito m e o f high cuisine.
in o rd e r to pre pa re steaks, chops, roa sts, o r ground
An exam ple w ould be th e fa tte n e d duck o r goose liver
m eat. These cuts are re fe rre d to as p o rtio n c o n tro l cuts.
known as fo ie gras. This m ea t has a con sisten cy th a t
The am o un t o f b u tc h e rin g done in packing plan ts
resem bles b u tte r and a d is tin c tiv e flavo r. Foie gras is
has increased over th e pa st several years. W hile it is s till
an exce p tio n to th e general rule th a t organ m eats are
possible to purchase hanging m eat, m o st o p e ra tio n s w ill
inexpensive and can com m and a high price. A n o th e r ex
buy w h a t is re fe rre d to as boxed m eat. This in dica tes
ce p tio n to th is rule is th e sw e etbre ad, or thym us gland,
th a t th e m eat has been fa b ric a te d to a s p e c ific p o in t
o f veal. W hen p ro p e rly prepared, th is s o ft-s tru c tu re d
(prim al, subprim al, o r re ta il cut), packed in Cryovac,
gland can be eaten w ith a fo rk . S w e etbre ad s are in high
boxed, and shipped f o r sale to purveyors, butchers,
dem and and w a rra n t a high cost.
chain re ta il o u tle ts , and so fo rth .
meat basics
generally used fo r processed m eat and are o f no pra ctical
Organ m ea ts te n d to be highly perishable and th e re fo re m ust be used fre sh , w ith in a w eek o f slaughter, or
KOSHER MEATS Kosher m eats are s p e cia lly sla ug htered , bled, and fa b ric a te d in o rd e r to com p ly w ith re lig io u s d ie ta ry
purchased fro ze n . Be sure to keep fro z e n ite m s below 32 ° and -4 ° F /0 ° and -1 8 °C to ensure th e fo rm a tio n o f sm all ice c ry s ta ls and m inim ize damage.
laws. In th is cou ntry, only b e e f and veal fo re q u a rte rs ,
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
71
beef Beef is essential to the foodservice industry,
the tougher the meat. Specialty beef such as Kobe beef
especially in the United States. A significant source of
from Japan, Limousin beef from France, and Certified
protein, beef is featured in an array of classic and con
Angus, natural, organic, and dry-aged beef from the
temporary dishes. This expensive product demands spe
United States are also available. The eight grades of beef, in order of highest to low
cial care and training. Utilizing as much of each cut to maximize the yield is an important practice to follow. Cattle used for the beef industry are typically steers (castrated males) over one year old and heifers (female
est quality, are as follows: Prime, Choice, Select, Stan dard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Prime is usually reserved for restaurants and butcher shops.
cows) not required for breeding. The older the bovine,
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the round: 1. hind shank, 2. shank stew, 3. top round, 4. to p round tie d as a roast, 5. marrow bones
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
c
r
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i- h
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the loin: 1. short loin, 2. porterhouse steak cut from the sho rt loin, 3. top sirloin bu tt, 4. flan k steak, 5. tenderloin PSMO, 6. trim m ed ten der loin, 7. tenderloin steaks, 8. boneless s trip loin, 9. po rtio n -cu t s trip loin steaks
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
73
beef, continued
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the rib: 1. short loin, 2. po rtion -cut short ribs, 3, rib eye lip on, 4. po rtion -cut rib steaks
74
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
c
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1 -h
These cuts are from the primal cut known as the chuck: 1. trim m ed shoulder clod, 2. top blade, 3. shoulder stew, 4. chuck roll, 5. brisket, 6. s k irt steak, 7. trim m ed s k irt steak, 8. tripe , 9. oxtail
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
75
Bovine Beef Primal Cuts COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARYUSES
SHANK
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
HEEL .
B raising, s te w in g
SUBPRIMAL
round primal cut
O fte n bra ise d or stew ed; prepa red as goulash
KNUCKLE
Braising, ro a s tin g
O fte n p re pa red as kabobs
TOP ROUND
R oasting, pan fry in g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a roulade, bra cio le, or London b ro il
EYE ROUND
R oasting, bra isin g
P ot ro a ste d ; oven ro a s te d and sliced th in ; carpaccio; fon due
BOTTOM ROUND
B raising
O fte n p re pa red as a p o t ro a st or sau erb raten
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as stea ks
TENDERLOIN, PSMO PORTION-CUT
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n p re p a re d as Chateaubriand, to u rn e d o s, m edallions, or f ile t m ignon
FLANK STEAK
B roilin g, g rillin g , bra isin g
loin primal cut SIRLOIN (TOP SIRLOIN BUTT)
O fte n p re pa red as London b ro il, b u tte r flie d , o r s tu ffe d
STRIP LOIN, 175 BONE-IN (SHELL); 180 BONELESS
R oasting, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t or stea ks (New York s trip steak)
SHORT LOIN
B roilin g, g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as p o rte rh o u se or T -bone ste a k
BONE-IN EXPORT RIB, 109D E X P O R T STYLE
R oasting, g rillin g
O fte n pre p a re d as prim e rib roa st, bone-in rib stea k, or cow boy stea k
BONELESS LIP-ON RIB, 112A
R oasting, g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre p a re d boneless as rib eye ro a s t o r D elm onico stea ks
SHORT RIBS
B raising
O fte n braised, s lo w -ro a ste d , or
rib primal cut
barbecued
chuck primal cut SQUARE-CUT CHUCK
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d as chuck ro a s t or ground
SHOULDER CLOD
Braising, ro a stin g , stew ing , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as ste a ks or ground
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
|
c
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COMMON CULINARY USES
PLATE
B raising
O fte n pre p a re d as s h o rt ribs
BRISKET
B raising
O fte n pre p a re d corned and as
5UBPRIMAL
!
market forms
p a stra m i FORESHANK
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red ground
S au tein g
O fte n p re p a re d as fo rc e m e a t
B raising or slow sim m e rin g in a b ro th or
S lo w -b ra ise d or stew ed
variety meats (offal) LIVER TRIPE
red sauce KIDNEYS
S te w in g
O fte n baked in to a pie
TONGUE
S im m e ring
O fte n pre p a re d sm oked
OXTAILS
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n slow braised as a stew , soup, or ragoO t
INTESTINES
D epends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used as casing f o r sausage
HEART
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d in ste w or added to dishes in chopped fo rm
BLOOD
Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used to p re p a re coa gu late sausages
loin
round l
sirloin 1
sho rt loin 1
rib 1
chuck 1
foreshank Beef skeletal structure
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
77
Beef HRI Cuts WEIGHT RANGE
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
103
Rib (prim al)
3 5 -4 0
109
Rib, ro a s t-re a d y
1 8 -2 2
109D
Rib, ro a s t-re a d y , cover o ff, s h o rt-c u t
1 6 -1 8
11 2
Rib, rib eye ro ll
8 -1 0
11 2 A
Rib, rib eye ro ll, lip on
1 1 -1 3
113
Chuck, sq u a re -c u t (prim al)
7 9 -1 0 6
11 4
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod
1 5 -2 1
11 6A
Chuck, chuck ro ll, tie d
1 5 -2 1
120
B riske t, boneless, de ckle o f f
1 0 -1 2
121C
P late, s k irt s te a k (diaphragm ), o u te r
2 and up
121D
P late, s k irt stea k, inner
3 and up
123
Rib, s h o rt ribs
3 -5
1 2 3B
Rib, s h o rt ribs, trim m e d
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
166B
Round, rum p and shank p a rtia lly rem oved, handle on (steam sh ip )
5 2 -7 0
167
Round, knuckle
9 -1 3
1 6 7A
Round, knuckle, peeled
8 -1 2
1 69
Round, to p (inside)
1 7 -2 3
1 70
Round, b o tto m (gooseneck)
2 3 -3 1
170A
Round, b o tto m (gooseneck), heel o u t
2 0 -2 8
17 1B
Round, b o tto m , o u ts id e round f la t
1 0 -1 6
171C
Round, eye o f round
3 and up
172
Loin, fu ll loin, trim m e d (prim al)
5 0 -7 0
174
Loin, s h o rt loin, s h o rt-c u t
2 2 -2 6
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
(POUNDS)
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WEIGHT RANGE
PRODUCT NAME
(POUNDS)
175
Loin, s trip loin, bone-in
1 8 -2 0
180
Loin, s trip loin, boneless
7 -1 1
181
Loin, s irlo in
1 9 -2 8
18 4
Loin, to p s irlo in b u tt, boneless
1 2 -1 4
185A
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, fla p , boneless
3 and up
185B
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, ba ll tip , boneless
3 and up
185D
Loin, b o tto m s irlo in b u tt, tr i- t ip , boneless, d e fa tte d
3 and up
189
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in
189A
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle on, d e fa tte d
5 -6
190
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, d e fa tte d
3 -4
190A
Loin, fu ll te n d e rlo in , side m uscle o ff, skinned
3 -4
191
Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in
2 -4
193
Flank ste a k
1 and up
134
B e e f bones
A m o u n t as sp e cifie d
135
Diced b e e f
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
13 5 A
B e e f f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as sp e cifie d
13 6
G round b e e f
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
B e e f p a tty m ix
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
-10
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
79
veal
Veal is the flesh of a young calf, generally four
to five months old. Because of its young, delicately ten
consume a special diet and are the standard type of veal used today; this veal is up to four months old.
der flesh, it is considered by some to be the finest meat
Veal should be selected by color; it should be light
available. Classical preparations include, but are not
pink in color and tender. The five USDA grades of veal,
limited to, osso buco, vitello tonnato, cordon bleu, veal
in order of highest to lowest quality, are Prime, Choice,
piccata, and veal scaloppine.
Good, Standard, and Utility. Because the overall ratio of
Fine veal calves are fed mother’s milk or formula. Milk-fed veal is up to twelve weeks old and is believed
meat to bone is less than a full-grown bovine, there are proportionately fewer cuts of veal.
to have the most tender meat. Formula-fed calves
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. bottom round, 2. shank, 3. osso buco, 4. to p round cap off, 5. po rtion -cut veal cutlets, 6. trim m ed loin, 7. po rtion -cut chops
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
<1
P
These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. rack (chop-ready), 2. trenched rack chops, 3. breast, 4. trim m ed shoulder clod, 5. stew, 6. sweetbreads, 7. liver, 8. kidney
Chapter 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
8i
Bovine Veal Primal Cuts SUBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
SHANK
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d osso buco
HEEL
S te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
TOP ROUND; KNUCKLE; BOTTOM ROUND;
D ry he at saute, ro a stin g , ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red as scaloppine, c u tle ts (V 2 in /1 cm), sc h n itz e l [ lA in /6 mm),
leg primal cut
EYE ROUND; BUTT
em ince, escalope, and kabobs. Usable trim o fte n used f o r ste w in g or p re pared as fo rc e m e a t
loin primal cut TENDERLOIN; SIRLOIN
R oasting, sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as m edallions, n o is e tte s , and as a w hole ro a st
TR IM M ED LOIN;
R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), sauteing, b ro ilin g
O fte n p re pa red as chops (bone-in or
SPLIT BONELESS LOIN (STRIP LOIN)
boneless), m edallions, scaloppine, em ince, escalope
hotel rack primal cut RACK; SPLIT CHOPREADY RACK;
R o astin g (bone-in o r boneless), b ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
FRENCHEDRACK
O fte n p re pa red as fre n ch e d or crown, chops (bone-in, french ed ), and m e d a l lions, scaloppine, em ince, escalope
square-cut shoulder primal cut SQUARE-CUT SHOULDER, BONELESS
R o astin g (boneless), stew ing , b ra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
SHOULDER CLOD
S tew ing , ro a stin g , bra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
BREAST
B raising, ro a s tin g
O fte n pre p a re d s tu ffe d , b u tte rflie d , o r as bacon
FORESHANK
B raising, s te w in g
O fte n p re pa red ground
CHEEKS
B raising, ste w in g
Used in braises and stew s
TONGUE
B raising, sim m e ring
O fte n used in th e p re p a ra tio n o f te rrin e s
market forms
variety meats (offal)
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
j
< ( I
p 5UBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
SWEETBREADS
Poaching the n sau tein g
O fte n served as an a p p e tiz e r o r hors d'oeuvre b u t can be served as an en tre e
LIVER
O fte n served sau teed w ith onions
S au tein g
and o th e r fla v o rin g s such as sherry, herbs, o r lem on HEART
B raising, ste w in g
O fte n p re pa red in ste w or added to dishes in chopped fo rm
KIDNEYS
S au tein g
O fte n fo u n d sauteed; served in a pie
BRAINS
Poaching the n sa u te in g
O fte n fo u n d in sauteed dishes b u t can also be deep frie d
S im m e ring
FEET
M o s t o fte n used in m aking s to c k o r in cla ssica l cold fo o d p re p a ra tio n s like Zam bone
Veal skeletal structure
Chapter 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
83
Veal HRI Cuts
84
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
306
H o te l rack, 7 ribs
1 0 -1 2
30 6 B
C hop -re ad y rack
4 -5
307
Rack, rib eye, boneless
3 -4
309
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, bone-in (prim al)
2 0 -3 6
30 9 B
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, boneless
1 9 -3 3
30 9D
Chuck, s q u a re -cu t, neck o ff, boneless, tie d
1 8 -3 2
310A
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless
4 -7
31 0 B
Chuck, sh o u ld e r clod, boneless, ro a s t
4 -7
312
Foreshank
2 -4
313
B rea st
6 -1 0
331
Loin (prim al)
1 0 -1 8
332
Loin, trim m e d
8 -1 4
344
Loin, s trip loin, boneless
3 -6
346
Loin, b u tt te n d e rlo in , d e fa tte d
I-IV 2
334
Leg (prim al)
4 0 -7 0
336
Leg, shank o ff, boneless
1 1 -1 9
337
Hindshank
2 -4
337A
Shank, osso buco
13
363
Legs, TBS, 4 p a rts
2 4 -3 2
363A
Leg, TBS, 3 p a rts
1 6 -2 4
349
Leg, to p round, cap on
8 -1 2
349A
Leg, to p round, cap o f f
6 -8
39 5
Veal f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d
39 6
G round veal
A m o u n t as sp e c ifie d
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
T 3 O
Pork, the meat of domesticated pigs, is among
Because USDA grading is not required for pork and
the most popular meat sold in the United States. Typi
federal grading must be paid for, packers will often use
cally high in fat, pigs have been specifically bred over
their own grading system. This does not necessarily
many generations to produce leaner cuts of meat. Pigs
mean that various cuts of pork are not of good qual
are commonly slaughtered under one year of age to en
ity, for the grading systems used by major packers are
sure a tender product.
clearly defined and are generally reliable. In the tables
Although quality grades are less frequently assigned to pork, when applied, the USDA grades, in order of
i-s
that follow, BRT indicates boned, rolled, and tied. RTE signifies ready to eat.
highest to lowest quality, are 1, 2, 3, 4, and Utility.
These cuts are from the rear ha lf o f the swine: 1. ham prepared by smoking, 2. fresh ham, 3. ham prepared by curing (prosciutto), 4. center-cut pork loin, 5. frenched rib end o f loin, 6. baby back ribs, 7. boneless tie d loin roast, 8. tenderloin, 9. center-cut pork chop fro m the loin end, 10. cen ter-cut pork chop from the rib end
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
85
pork, continued
These cuts are from the fro n t half o f the swine: 1. Boston butt, 2. pork picnic, 3. spare ribs, 4. fo o t. The follow ing are examples o f prepared pork items: 5. Genoa salami, 6. sliced bacon, 7. kielbasa, 8. chorizo, 9. pancetta, 10. Italian sausage, 11. breakfast sausage
86
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
o Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
SHAN K/H O C K
S tew ing , b ra isin g
O fte n pre p a re d sm oked o r corned
HAM (BONE-IN OR BONELESS)
For fre s h ham, ro a s t (bone-in, BRT), ro a s t w hole, ro a s t as sm a lle r sectio ns,
P ro s c iu tto ham, sa lte d and d ry-cu red long te rm ; S m ith fie ld ham, drycured and sm oked; inside ham RTE,
SUBPRIMAL
ham primal cut
o r c u tle ts
baked; th in -s lic e d sm oked ham (w e tcured, h a lf o r w hole, b u tt/s h a n k ); bo ile d ham (w e t-cu re d , cooked to 1 4 5 °F /6 3 °C ) TOP ROUND
S a u tein g
O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts
R oasting, g rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or
loin primal cut CENTER-CUT PORK LOIN
boneless); fre n ch e d , sm oked, chops (bone-in); o r C a na dia n-style bacon (boneless) BONELESS LOIN (EYE MUSCLE)
G rillin g , b ro ilin g , sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as c u tle ts , m ed al lions, o r sch n itze l
TENDERLOIN
R oasting, sau tein g
O fte n p re pa red as m ed allio ns or ro a s te d w hole
boston butt primal cut BOSTON BUTT
R oasting, stew ing , sa u te in g
O fte n pre p a re d (bone-in, boneless) as fo rc e m e a t o r sausages
COTTAGE BUTT
R o astin g o r fry in g as bacon
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (fre sh ) or sm oked (English bacon)
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t o r bone less (boneless, BRT, skin on, fresh); sm oked and cured (picnic ham, sm oked shoulder); as ta sso ham; as fo rc e m e a t (used f o r co ld -c u t p re p a ra tio n s)
picnic primal cut PICNIC (BO NE-IN OR BONELESS)
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
87
Swine (Pig) Primal Cuts, continued SUBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
S auteed or ro a s te d when fre sh ; o th e r fo rm s frie d
T yp ica lly cured fo r bacon, pa nce tta,
SPARE RIBS, ST. LOUIS RIBS (TRIM M ED)
B arbecuing, b ra isin g
S low cooked in barbecue; can be stea m e d o r sim m e red to te n d e rize
BABY BACK RIBS
B arbecuing
S low cooked as barbecued w hole
market forms BELLY
o r s a lt p o rk b u t can be slow ro a ste d o r braised as fre s h p o rk be lly
racks; can be se ctio n e d , coated, and cooked in d iv id u a lly FATBACK
S auteed
Can be fre s h o r salted; o fte n p re pared as lardons; in c o n fit, cassoulet, and fo rc e m e a t
B raising
O fte n p re pa red as fo rc e m e a t and as sausage
variety meats (offal) JOWL, SNOUT, NECK BONES, LIVER, HEART, FEET, TOES, TAIL, INTESTINES, KIDNEYS, CAUL FAT
Boston b u tt
loin
Pork skeletal structure
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
!
o Pork HRI Cuts
2
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
401
Fresh ham
1 8 -2 0
402B
Fresh ham, boneless, tie d
8 -1 2
403
Shoulder, picnic
6 -8
405A
Shoulder, picnic, boneless
4 -8
406
Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, bone-in (prim al)
4 and up
406A
Shoulder, B osto n b u tt, boneless
4 and up
408
B elly
1 2 -1 8
410
Loin (p rim a l)
1 6 -1 8
412
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, bone-in
8 -1 0
412B
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 8 ribs, boneless
4 -6
412C
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 rib s, bone-in
1 0 -1 2
412E
Loin, c e n te r-c u t, 11 ribs, boneless
5 -7
413
Loin, boneless
9 -1 1
415
T end erloin
1 and up
416
Spare rib s
2 1/ 2 - 5 1/2
416A
Spare ribs, S t. Louis s ty le
2 -3
417
S h o ulder hocks
3/ t a n d up
418
T rim m in gs
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
420
F eet, fr o n t
1/2 -3/4
4 21
Neck bones
A m o u n t as s p e c ifie d
422
Loin, back ribs, baby back ribs
l 1/2 -2 1/4
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
89
lamb and mutton
Lamb is the tender meat
old. Lamb that is allowed to age over sixteen months is
produced by young, domesticated sheep. Its texture is a
known as mutton. Mutton is considered to have a more
direct result of what it consumes and the age at which
pronounced flavor and texture than lamb. As with other
it is slaughtered. The milk-fed varieties of lamb are in
varieties of meat, lamb becomes tougher as it ages.
clined to yield the most delicate meat. Once a lamb be
Lamb tends to be fatty. Its unique flavor pairs nicely
gins to eat grass, the flesh loses some of its tenderness.
with intense seasonings and accompaniments. The five
However, most lamb produced in the United States
grades of lamb, in order of highest to lowest quality, are
is finished on a grain diet and is six to seven months
Prime, Choice, Good, Utility, and Cull.
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. leg, 2. leg BRT, 3. trim m ed loin, 4. loin chops, 5. noisettes
90
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
lamb and m utton
e
These cuts are from the foresaddle: 1. sp lit and chined rack, 2. frenched rack, 3. double- and single-rack chops, 4. square-cut chuck/shoulder, 5. shoulder BRT, 6. shanks
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
91
Ovine (Lamb) Primal Cuts SUBPRIMAL
COMMON COOKING METHODS
COMMON CULINARY USES
S te w in g (bone-in or boneless), braising, ro a s tin g (m o st com m on)
O fte n pre p a re d as leg o f lam b or ro a s t (bone-in, BRT, oven-ready, fre n ch e d , sem i-bon eless)
R oasting, sau tein g, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n p re pa red as steaks, scaloppine, o r b u tte r f lied
TRIM M ED LOIN, SPLIT; BO N ELESS(EYE MUSCLE); SIRLOIN
R o astin g (rare), sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in,
TENDERLOIN
Sauteing, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as m ed allio ns o r n o is e tte s
RACK (SPLIT AND CHINED)
R oasting, sau tein g, b ro ilin g , g rillin g
O fte n p re pa red as a ro a s t (bone-in, crow n roa st); chops: A m erican (sin g le /d o u b le ) o rfre n c h e d
BREAST
Braising, ste w in g
O fte n pre p a re d as rib le ts or s tu ffe d
leg primal cut SHANK, HEEL, KNUCKLE, EYE ROUND, BOTTOM ROUND TOP ROUND
loin primal cut boneless); c u t in to chops
hotel rack primal cut
shoulder square primal cut FORESHANK
Braising, ste w in g
M ay be pre p a re d bone-in o r boneless
NECK
Braising, s te w in g
O fte n pre p a re d ground
SQ UARE-CUTCHUCK, BONELESS
B raising, stew ing , g rillin g , b ro ilin g
O fte n pre p a re d as a ro a s t (bone-in or BRT) o r chops (round o r blade bone)
variety meats (offal) TONGUE
S im m e rin g
O fte n sm oked
LIVER
S a u tein g
O fte n pre p a re d as fo rc e m e a t
HEART
Braising, ste w in g
S m a lle r h e a rts are o fte n s tu ffe d and sau teed o r ro a s te d f o r a single p o rtio n
KIDNEYS
S tew ing, b ra isin g
O fte n stew e d and served w ith he arty in g re d ie n ts such as bacon and m ushroom s
INTESTINES
Depends on th e p re p a ra tio n
Used as casing f o r sausage
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L K IT CHEN
1
ITEM
PRODUCT NAME
WEIGHT RANGE (POUNDS)
204
Rack (prim al)
6 -8
204B
Rack, ro a s t-re a d y , single
2 -4
206
S ho ulder
2 0 -2 4
207
Shoulder, square cut
5 -7
208
Shoulder, square cut, boneless, tie d
6 -8
209
B re a st
7 -1 1
210
Foreshank
2 -3
231
Loin
9 -1 1
232
Loin, trim m e d
6 -8
232B
Loin, double, boneless
3 -4
233
Leg, p a ir (prim al)
1 9 -2 0
233A
Leg, single, t r o t t e r o f f
1 0 -1 2
234
Leg, boneless, tie d , single
8 -1 0
233G
Leg, hindshank
1 and up
233E
Leg, ste a m sh ip
7 -9
295
Lam b f o r s te w in g
A m o u n t as needed
295A
Lam b f o r kabobs
A m o u n t as needed
296
G round lamb
A m o u n t as needed
Lamb and m utton skeletal structure
foresaddle
f
lamb and m utton
Lamb HRI Cuts
whole carcass
hindsaddle
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
93
venison and furred game
Free-
commonly refers to deer, other members of the venison
roaming and domesticated wild animals fall under the
family include moose, elk, and reindeer. Buffalo and
category of game. A variety of game meats have become
wild boar are other popular large game.
increasingly popular due in part to customer awareness
The most common of the small game is rabbit.
of lower fat and cholesterol content. Depending upon
Rabbit has mild, lean, tender, and fine-textured meat.
the area of the country, several types of furred game are
A mature rabbit ranges from three to five pounds, and
available.
young rabbit is generally two to three pounds. The loin
Game meats are categorized into two segments: large and small. Venison is the most popular large game, characterized by lean meat that is free from
is often sauteed or roasted, while legs are commonly braised or stewed. Commercial game meats are federally inspected.
intramuscular fat, generally dark red in color, and suit
The quality of the flesh is a direct result of age, diet, and
able for roasting, sauteing, and grilling. Though venison
the time of year that it was killed.
These cuts are from a variety o f game animals: 1. venison leg/haunch, 2. boneless venison loin, 3. venison medallions, 4. venison saddle, 5. frenched venison rack, 6. venison shoulder, 7. boneless venison shoulder, 8. rabbit
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
O
poultry The word poultry refers to any domesti
Similar to other meats, poultry must undergo a
C
cated bird used for human consumption. Once reserved
mandatory inspection for wholesomeness. The grades
r+ i- i
for special occasions, chicken and other poultry have
of USDA A, B, or C depend on numerous factors, such
become commonplace in restaurants and homes. The
as carcass shape and the ratio of meat to bone. Once
subtle and familiar flavor of chicken lends itself well
inspected, the birds are plucked, cleaned, chilled, and
to a number of different cooking methods. Considered
packaged. They may be purchased whole or in parts.
very nutritious, poultry entrees are among the most
Poultry is classified by age. The younger the bird, the
popular on most menus.
more tender the flesh.
"< !
These birds are examples o f geese and ducks: 1. Buddhist duck (called Pekin duck if the head is removed), 2. moulard duck breast, 3. goose, 4. moulard duck legs, 5. fo ie gras
ch a p te r 6 » MEAT, POUL TRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
95
poultry, continued
These birds are examples o f the chicken fam ily: 1 .6-pound roaster chicken, 2. turkey, B. stew ing hen, 4 . 3-pound fry e r chicken, 5. pheasant, 6. bone-in quail, 7. squab, 8. guinea fow l, 9. semi-boneless quail
96
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S I N T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
^ 0
o
Classes of Poultry
£
TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
APPROX. AGE
APPROX. WEIGHT
BROILER
4 - 6 w eeks
FRYER
6 -1 0 weeks
COMMON COOKING METHOD
COMMON CULINARY USES
1 -3
B ro ilin g , g rillin g , sau tein g
O fte n pre pa red w hole o r s p lit
3 '/2 - 4 1/2
R oasting, g rillin g , bro ilin g , s a u te in g
(POUNDS)
O fte n pre pa red whole, s p lit, qu a rte re d , or d is jo in te d
7 -9
Over 10 m onths
6 -8
S im m e ring
FEMALE)
M o s t o fte n prepared in a soup, sto ck, or stew
POUSSIN
3 weeks
1
R o astin g
M o s t o fte n prepared w hole
ROCK CORNISH HEN,
5 - 7 weeks
Less tha n 2
R o astin g
M o s t o fte n prepared w hole or s p lit
U nder 8 m onths
7 -9
R o astin g
R oasted whole, carving
HEN TURKEY (FEM ALE)
5 -7
8 -2 0
R o astin g
R oasted whole
TOM TURKEY (M ALE)
O ver 7 m onths
20 and up
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
BROILER DUCKLING
U nder 8 weeks
4 -6
R oasting, sauteing,
O fte n only b re a s t is pre pa red. Legs o fte n p re pa red as c o n fit
U nder 12
6 -8
R o astin g
Slow ro a s t w hole or cu t in half; can be cu t in to p a rts and ro a ste d
6 m onths and up
8 -1 6
R o astin g
Can be dry cooked,
2 5 -3 0 days
3/ 4 - l
FOWL (STEWING HEN,
R o astin g
M o s t o fte n prepared
3 -5 m onths
ROASTER
w hole
CORNISH CROSS CAPON (CASTRATED M ALE)
ROASTER DUCKLING
m onths
g rillin g
weeks
GOOSE
SQUAB
ro a s te d w hole or cut in half, cu t in to p a rts and ro a ste d R o astin g
R oasted w hole
c h a p te r 6 » MEAT, POULTRY, A N D G A M E ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
97
Classes of Poultry, continued TYPE (DESCRIPTION)
APPROX. AGE
APPROX. WEIGHT (POUNDS)
COMMON COOKING METHOD
COMMON CULINARY USES
PIGEON
2 -6
3/ 4 -l
R o astin g
R oasted w hole
m onths PHEASANT
6 - 8 weeks
2 -3
R o astin g
Can be cooked by d ry - or m o is t-h e a t m ethods; can be ro a ste d w hole o r cut in h a lf
QUAIL
6 - 8 weeks
V a-V2
R oasting, g rillin g , b ro ilin g
R oasted w hole
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
fish and shellfish identification Fish and shellfish were once plentiful and inexpensive; however, due to overfishing and the development and degradation of many coastal areas, demand has begun to outstrip supply. These factors have caused many countries to pass regulations limiting commercial fishing in specific waters, as well as the rise of aquaculture (the farm raising of fish), to ensure reliable sources. And as the health benefits of fish are increasingly becoming widely known, many Americans who traditionally favored red meats both at home and when they eat out are ordering fish entrees more often.
JM
fish basics The increased value of seafood demands th a t a chef
PAVE A portion-sized square cut from a fille t. A
must be fam iliar with a wide variety of fish and shellfish,
pave is generally cut from a large fille t, fo r exam
and th eir sources; be able to select absolutely fresh
ple, salmon, halibut, mahi mahi, or tuna.
fish and shellfish of the best quality; and understand the best cooking method or methods to use in their preparation. The firs t step in the selection process is assessing the purveyor or market. The fishmonger should properly handle, ice, and display the fish and should be able to
FRESHNESS CHECKS FOR FINFISH To ensure th at fish are of the best quality, the chef should carefully inspect them, checking for as many of the following signs of freshness and quality as possible:
answer any questions regarding the fish's origin and
Fish should be received a t a tem perature of
its qualities: lean or oily, firm -textu red or delicate, ap
4 0 °F /4 °C or less.
propriate fo r m oist-heat method or able to withstand a grill’s heat.
M A R K E T F O R M S OF FISH
The fish should have a good overall appearance (clear slime, no cuts or bruising, pliable fins). The scales should adhere tigh tly to the fish.
Fish can be purchased fresh in the m arket forms de
The flesh should respond to light pressure and not
scribed below, as well as in frozen, smoked, pickled, or
fee l soft.
salted forms. WHOLE FISH This is the fish as it was caught, com pletely intact. This is typically referred to as "in the round.” DRAWN FISH The viscera (guts) are removed, but head, fins, and scales are still intact.
The eyes should be clear, bright, and bulging. The gills should be bright pink to maroon in color, and if mucous is present, it should be clear. There should be no "belly burn"— evidence th at the viscera (guts) were le ft in the fish too long, result ing in bacteria and enzymes breaking down the
H 6 G (HEADED AND GUTTED) OR HEAD-OFF DRAWN The head and viscera (guts) are removed, but scales and fins are still intact. DRESSED FISH The viscera (guts), gills, scales, and
flesh along the rib cage. The fish should have a clean, sweet, sea-like smell.
STORAGE
fins are removed. The head may or may not be re moved. Also known as pan-dressed, these fish are usually appropriate fo r a single serving.
Under correct storage conditions, fish and shellfish can be held fo r several days w ithout losing any appreciable quality. Ideally, however, the chef should purchase only
STEAK This is a portion-sized cross section cut
the amount of fish needed fo r a day or two and should
from a dressed fish. Portion cuts from the fille ts
store it properly, as described below:
of large fish, such as tuna and swordfish, are also commonly called steaks.
1. Always keep fish at a proper storage tem perature and handle them as little as possible. Finfish: 28° to
FILLET This is a boneless piece of fish, removed
3 2 ° F /-2 ° to 0°C; smoked fish: 32°F/0°C ; caviar: 28°
from either side of the backbone. The skin may or
to 3 2 ° F /- 2 ° t o 0°C.
may not be removed before cooking. Purveyors often sell fille ts "pin-bone in," so it is im portant to specify "pin-bone out" when ordering. TRANCHE A portion-sized slice of a fille t th at is cut at a 45 -d e g ree angle to expose a g rea ter sur face area. A tranche is generally cut from a large fille t, fo r example, salmon or halibut.
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2 . Whole, drawn, H 6 G, and dressed fish may be rinsed at this point; scaling and fabricating should be de layed until close to service time. 3. Place the fish on a bed of shaved or flaked ice in a perforated container (such as a hotel pan with a draining pan), preferably stainless steel. The fish
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
the top layer of ice from the storage container, and replace it with fresh ice.
4. Cover with additional ice. Fish may be layered, if
Fish purchased as fille ts or steaks should be stored in
necessary, with shaved or flaked ice; cubed ice can
stain le ss- stee l containers set on ice. They should not be
bruise the fish's flesh. It also will not conform as
in d ire c t c o n ta ct w ith the ice, however, because as it melts,
closely to the fish. Shaved or flaked ice makes a
much o f the fla v o r and te x tu re o f the fish w ill be lost.
tig h ter seal around the entire fish. This prevents undue contact w ith the air, slowing loss of quality and helping to extend safe storage life. 5. Set the perforated container in a second container. In this way, as the ice melts, the w ater will drain away. If fish is allowed to sit in a pool of water, flavor and textu re loss will occur. The longer it sits, the g reater the loss of quality. 6. Re-ice fish daily. Even when properly iced, fish will
fish basics
should be belly down, and the belly cavity should be filled with shaved ice as well.
Frozen fish , includ in g ice-glazed w hole fis h (re p e a t edly coa ted w ith w a te r and fro ze n so th a t the ice builds up in layers, co a tin g th e e n tire fish), in d ivid u a lly quick fro z e n (IQF), and fro z e n fille ts (which are o fte n tre a te d w ith sodium trip o ly p h o s p h a te [stp] to p ro m o te added w a te r re te n tio n ) should be sto re d a t -2 0 ° to 0 °F /-2 9 ° to -1 8 °C u n til ready to be tha w ed and cooked. Do n o t acce pt any fro z e n fis h w ith w h ite fr o s t on its edges. This in d ica te s fre e z e r burn, the re s u lt o f im p ro p er packaging o r th a w in g and re fre e z in g o f th e product.
gradually lose some quality. To slow this loss, skim
common fish types The s k e le ta l s tru c tu re o f fis h is a use ful means o f sepa
Fish m ay also be ca te g o rize d by th e ir a c tiv ity level:
ra tin g fin fis h in to sm a lle r groupings. The th re e basic
low, m edium , o r high. The m ore a fis h swim s, th e darker
typ e s o f fin fis h are fla t, round, and nonbony. F la tfis h
its fle s h w ill be. D a rke r-fle sh e d fis h have a higher oil
have a backbone th a t runs th ro u g h th e ce n te r o f th e
c o n te n t and, th e re fo re , a s tro n g e r flavo r. When choosing
fis h w ith tw o up pe r and tw o lo w er fille ts , and bo th eyes
th e b e st coo kin g tech niq ue fo r a given fish, consider the
on the same side o f th e head. Round fis h have a m iddle
o il c o n te n t o f th e fle sh . Low - and h ig h -a c tiv ity fis h have
backbone w ith one f ille t on e ith e r side, and one eye on
lim ite d coo kin g m ethods, w h ile m e d iu m -a c tiv ity fis h are
each side o f th e head. N onbony fis h have c a rtila g e ra th
q u ite v e rs a tile . (See th e ta b le s on pages 1 0 6 to 113.)
er than bones. (See diagram s on pages 1 0 4 and 113.)
c h a p t e r y » FISH A N D S H E L L F I S H I D E N T IF IC A T IO N
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flat fish
The characteristics of flat fish include the
following: one pigmented and one nonpigmented side; either right- or left-eyed; continuous dorsal and anal fins that stop before the caudal fin.
HALIBUT
TURBOT PET R A LE
SO LE LEM O N SOLE
B LA C K -B A C K FLO U NDER (RIGHT-EYED)
F LU K E (LEFT -E Y ED FLOUNDER)
DOVER SOLE
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T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KIT CHEN
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
Found th ro u g h o u t th e G u lf o f M aine
Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
flat fish
Flat Fish
right-eyed GRAY SO LE/W ITCH FLOUNDER
W INTER F LO U N D ER / BLACK-BACK FLO U N D ER / MUD DAB
PLAICE/ROUGH DAB
in d e ep er areas along G eorges Bank. Averages 2 4 inches and 3 - 4 pounds, w ith 4 - to 10-ou nce fille ts . Ligh t, s lig h tly sw e et, d e lic a te fle s h Found inshore du rin g w in te r m onths, m o s tly in New York, M assa chu setts, and
Baking, poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
Rhode Island. Averages I V 2-2 pounds. C olor ranges fro m re d d ish -b ro w n to deep olive green; w h ite underside. D iam ond shape. D elicate, m ild ly fla v o rfu l fle sh Found on bo th sides o f th e A tla n tic ; called European, Irish, Am erican, or
Baking, poaching, sauteing, steam ing
Canadian plaice depending on where it is found; m em ber o f flo u n d e r fa m ily. Sm all fla t fish; 1 - 3 pounds average size. Firm, sweet, lean flesh ; considered good q u a lity
YELLO W TAIL FLOUNDER
Found p rim a rily fro m L a b ra d o r to Rhode Island, can be as fa r sou th as V irg in ia . Averages 1 - 2 pounds. O live brow n w ith ru s ty spots; ye llo w ta il; c o lo r m irro rs th e ocean flo o r, p ro v id in g p ro te c tio n fro m
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
p re d a to rs . Lean, fla k y , sw e e t fle sh LEMON SOLE
A w in te r flo u n d e r. M in im um o f 3V2
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
pounds, w ith 8-o un ce fille ts . W hite, som e w h at firm , m ild ly sw e e t fle s h ROCK SOLE
Found fro m th e B ering Sea to C a lifo rn ia and as fa r w e s t as Japan. Averages less
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
than 5 pounds. Firm , cream y w h ite fle s h PETRALE/PETRALE SOLE
REX SOLE
Found in th e P a cific Ocean fro m
Poaching, sau tein g
A laska to M exico; th e m o s t im p o rta n t co m m e rcia l W est C oast species. Sold w h ole o r w ith head, ta il, and p igm e nted skin rem oved. Averages 6 - 7 pounds. Firm , w h ite fle sh ; s im ila r in e a tin g q u a litie s to lem on sole Found in cold w a te rs near and around A laska. Averages 1 - 2 pounds. E longated body. D e lica te , cream y, w h ite , som e w h at s o ft fle sh ; d is tin c t in fla v o r
Poaching, sau tein g
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103
Flat Fish, continued COMMON COOKING METHODS AND CULINARY USES
NAME(S)
DESCRIPTION
DOVER SOLE
Found only in European w a te rs. Pale gray to brow n. Sm all, com p resse d head; ve ry sm all eyes; e lon gate d body. Flesh is
Baking, b ro ilin g , poaching, sauteing, ste a m in g
f a t tie r and fir m e r than o th e r m em bers o f th e f la t fis h fa m ily. Dover sole is ty p ic a lly served whole. HALIBUT
Found in th e A tla n tic fro m G reenland to so u th e rn New Jersey; m ust be labeled P a cific h a lib u t if fro m P a cific Ocean. Can be as large as 7 0 0 pounds, com m only
Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , poaching, sauteing, stea m ing
1 5 -3 0 pounds. Gray skin w ith w h ite m o ttlin g . Dense, sn o w -w h ite fle sh ; fin e te x tu re ; m ild ta s te ; h ig h e st fa t c o n te n t o f all lo w -a c tiv ity f la t fis h
left-eyed FLU K E /S U M M E R FLOUNDER
Found in co a sta l w a te rs fro m th e G ulf o f M aine to th e Carolinas. Large m outh exte n d s below and beyond its eyes. W hite, fla k y fle sh ; d e lic a te fla v o r and te x tu re
Baking, poaching, sau tein g
TURBOT
Found in th e N o rth Sea and European N o rth A tla n tic , tho ugh m o s tly fa rm e d in
Baking, b ro ilin g , fry in g , g rillin g , poaching, steam ing, sau tein g
th e Iberian Peninsula and Chile. Averages 3 - 6 pounds. D e lica te fla v o r; firm te x tu re
tail (caudal tin)
backbone
dorsal tin
Flat fish skeletal structure
104
T O O L S A N D I N G R E D IE N T S IN THE P R O F E S S I O N A L KITCHEN
operculum (gill co1
The character
sides of head; swim in upright position; firm gill plate; low, medium, or high activity.
FISH
low-activity round fish
low-activity round fish
istics of round fish include the following: eyes on both
HADDOCK
PO LLO CK
WHITE HAKE
c h a p te r 7 » F ISH A N D S H E L L F I S H ID E N T IF IC A T IO N
105
