Stitch Classes

Stitch Classes Fabric Studies

-Prepared

by -P.Lakshmana kanth, Senior Faculty – – IFTK

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Stitch Classes Industrial sewing machines are classified according to their intended use and the means of forming stitches. A stitch can be defined as „one unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping, or passing through material‟. material‟.















The six classes of stitches as given in Federal Standard 751a are Class 100 chain stitches Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches Class 300 lock stitches Class 400 multi thread chain stitches Class 500 over edge stitches Class 600 covering chain stitches















Class 100 Chain Stitches The stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105. The chain stitch class 100 is formed with one or more needle threads that form a loop on the underside of the fabric. There is no lower thread. One of the simplest of all stitch types is 101, which is formed from a single thread. It can be easily removed and it is used for basting operations in tailored men swear and women‟s wear.















The blind stitch version, 103, utilizes a curved needle in order to, successively penetrate partially into the fabric, and then into the hem edge, while showing minimally or not at all on the right side of the garment.















Sub Classes of Class 100 Stitch are given below Diagram

Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 101

One Thread

Basting, or light construction

Class

One

Blind stitch for

















Class 200 Stitches originating as hand stitches Stitch class 200 consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand with the exception of 205, which simulates a hand running stitch but is formed















Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitch or every other stitch





























Sub Classes of Class 200 Stitch are given below Diagram

Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses U ses















202 Class Stitch Single Thread Hand Stitch Using One Needle Thread Typical uses; Basting, Tacking and Repairs













































Thus, a lock stitch machine is a good choice for a small





























Some of the most common type of







































































































































































Class 401 Stitch Two Thread Chainstitch Using One Needle Thread and One Looper Thread Typical uses; Knit Seaming, Woven Lap-seams, etc.















406 Class stitch Three Thread Chainstitch Using Two Needle Threads and One Looper Thread Typical uses; Knit Seaming, Woven Lap-seams, Coverstitching where greater stretch is required.















Class 500 over edge stitches The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and have as a general characteristic that loops from at least one group of threads pass around the edge of the material. The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric with threads intersecting at the edge and preventing the fabric from fraying. All have high elasticity, they do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. These stitches are often called overedge, overcast,















Overedge machines must have three stitch forming devices, a needle to carry the thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry the thread from the needle to the edge of material on the bottom, and a looper or spreader to carry thread up and over the edge of the material on the top. The various stitch types uses various combinations of these three devices.















The odd numbered stitch types 501, 503, 505, and 521 are known as “break open” stitches because they act similar to the spiral back of a notebook. The fabric is held tight together but not secure along the inner edge of the stitching, which allows the stitch to break open. These stitches are best used for edge finishes and hem. They are characterized by a loose thread on

















The even numbered stitch types in this class – 502, 504, 512, and 514 – have a much tighter needle thread that holds the two layers of fabric together at















Serging and Edge stitches Types 503, 504, or 505 are over-edge stitch types that are used for serging. Serging is the process of finishing a single ply of fabric to prevent raveling. This is often one of the first processes in sewing a garment if another edge finish will not be given later in















Stitch type 504 and 505 are three thread over-edge stitches that are formed with one needle thread and two looper threads. They require more thread in the formation, but they also have more stretch.















Mock safety stitches Stitch types 512 and 514 are sometimes called mock safety stitches. They are four threads over edge stitches that are















The safety stitches 515, 516, and 519 are a combination of an overedge stitch and a 401 chain stitch. This type is called a safety stitch because the chain

















Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:











































Stitch type 602 & 605















Stitch type 607















Stitch Classes

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