Spearfishing Diving Manual

F . I. S . H . 4 A fric a FFre e d ivin g IIn stru ctio n S Sp e a rfis h in g w wH Hoolleessaalleerrss

“ D o it n a tu rally - try fre e d iv in g , it ta k e s y o u r b re a th a w a y ! “

Breathhold Freediving, Snorkelling and Spearfishing

-Training Manual -

Index 1.

Introduction to Breathhold Freediving, Snorkelling and Spearfishing

2.

Snorkeller; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver Certification Programmes

3.

Prerequisites, Performance Criteria and Competence Declaration

4.

Basic Chemistry and Physics of Water

5.

Seawater - the elixir of life – born with the mammalian reflex

6.

Buoyancy, Specific Gravity and Density

7.

Introduction to Freediving, Snorkelling and Spearfishing Equipment/Apparatus

8.

Mask – visual assistance – see underwater

9.

Snorkels - artificial airways - breathing

10. Fins – propulsion like a fish 11. Exposure and Thermal Protection - epidermis 12. Selection of Equipment and Apparatus 13. Practical Exercises and Performance Criteria 14. Contact Numbers and Networking with Persons 15. Shore dives – your first steps to losing equipment and Boat Diving 16. Oceanography Waves, Tides and Currents 17. Stalking and Hunting fish, Shooting Fish and Stringing Fish 18. Fish attracting devices (FAD’s) and Flashers 19. Areas to hunt and types of fish 20. Sea Sickness - Mal de Mer 21. Shallow Water Blackout (SWB) and Meditation 22. References & Annexures List of Restricted Fish Introduction

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Few experiences compare with the thrill of exploring inner-space. The oceans, which comprise over 70% of the planet, make the earth a unique member of the solar system perhaps the universe. Water is life and the earth is alive - like a human body (Gaia hypothesis). Yet while man has walked on the moon, he has only just begun to explore his own water planet. As an air breathing mammal man has evolved and adapted to life on terra-firma. His body has grown to hear and see in a special way. Under water man feels strange yet he should feel as if he is going home (more on the mammalian reflex later). Mankind feels as if they are in a foreign world, undersea, and new rules apply. A diver may have trouble interpreting and becoming familiar with the new sensations common to the underwater realm. Their body is affected in ways thy cannot understand. SPEARFISHING – ON A WATER PLANET Two thirds of the earth is covered with water and anyone who does not dive has been short changed by life. I feel sorry for a person that has only seen a small part of what our planet has to offer. Freediving offers a challenge to be found nowhere else. As air breathing terrestrial mammals, we can only pay fleeting visits to that wonderful, alien world that our long forgotten ancestors left millions of years ago. Because we are so ill equipped to tackle the undersea environment there are certain rules that should be observed when spearfishing

Golden Rules 1. If possible, always dive with a buddy - spearo’s who dive alone – die alone. 2. Only dive in conditions where you feel entirely self-reliant even if you have a buddy - survival of the fittest – it’s a jungle out there! 3. Be sure, when you enter the sea, that if you lost your mask and fins you could make your way back to the beach unassisted - drop your weight belt when in danger . 4. Don't ever load a speargun out of the water and don’t rely on safety catches - the only true safety catch is slack rubbers . 5. When diving in an unfamiliar area, speak to local divers re sea conditions and good diving areas - the importance of local knowledge can not be over emphasized. 6. Don't carry fish on a body stringer sharks don’t need any additional encouragement. 7. Don't carry weights that render you negative buoyant on the surface – or up to 5 m.

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8. Don't use earplugs for any reason. They are the quickest way to burst an eardrum. 9. Don't dive when suffering from a cold. It's the second quickest way to burst an eardrum. If you cannot equalise – don’t force it. 10. Don't shoot fish in the presence of feeding sharks. 11. Don't drink and dive or take medication that will make you drowsy and still dive. 12. Check up on local conservation laws governing the taking of fish, shellfish and crustaceans. Confirm protected conservation areas and applicable rules & regulations. 13. Always rinse your gear in fresh water after a dive and check all your gear for wear and tear. When you are down at 20 meters – your fins are your lifeline back up. 14. Learn how to give mouth to mouth resuscitation and how to help a person after suffering a shallow water black-out. 15. Know first aid and what to do in the case of a serious wound ie shark bite or propeller wound. 16. Carry meat tenderizer to apply to Portuguese man o' war (Blue Bottle) stings. 17. Join a spearfishing club where you can meet people of like interests and rememberTHERE ARE OLD DIVERS, THERE ARE BOLD DIVERS BUT ……… THERE ARE NO OLD, BOLD DIVERS

Question How many times have you been in the water? Where and When? How did you feel when a wave knocked you over at the seaside and you were held under and could not breathe? Close your eyes and describe the sensations you felt? Do you like being in and being under the water? Would you be able to relax in a backwash? Do you panic?

You will learn some more on the meta-physiological phenomenon that takes place in a human body when submerged in water ie relaxed euphoria, mammalian reflexive tendency, blood flow, centre of gravity, dehydration, cooling, breathing, apnea, hypoxia, anaerobic exercise. Whilst being underwater may be unique and puzzling - it does not need to be frightening. The same laws of physics apply under water too. Water was your prehistoric first home and even before birth you were protected and developed in the amoeboid fluid in your mother’ womb! When you enter the sea – you are going home.

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Snorkeler; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver Certification Programmes:

Objective To supply a framework for individuals to obtain certification as a Snorkeller; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver - to be able to safely enjoy the sport socially and competitively. Skin Diving or snorkelling is a safe, enjoyable past-time that has much to offer for everyone. There is no better way to learn about marine life than by experiencing the amazing underwater world first hand. Snorkelling not only strengthens the muscles, skeleton and cardiovascular system, but also offers relaxation away from the stress and tension of everyday life. Skin diving provides educational, physiological and psychological benefits for young and old alike and it is an inexpensive sport the whole family can enjoy. Both the Snorkeler, the Skin Diver and the Extended Range Freediver certifications are experiencially oriented educational programmes. Their aim is to introduce swimmers to skin diving and freediving using mask, snorkel and fins. A buoyancy vest and/or a wet –suit with weight - belt can also be used. The Snorkeller programme includes confined water exercises that will enable the graduate to freedive to a pressure of 1.5 atm equivalent to a depth of 5 metres/15 feet. The Extended Range Freediver programme adds more advanced skill development in a natural open water environment to qualify the graduate to dive to a pressure of 3 atm. Equivalent to a depth of 30 metres. Candidates who successfully complete these programmes qualify for Snorkeller; Skin Diver and Extended Range Freediver certification: Pre-requisites

1. Participants must be 10 years old or older. Applicants under 18 years of age must have written parental consent. In competitions, contestants must be older than 16 years.

2. A liability waiver, medical history form/current medical certificate and statement of understanding must be completed and signed by all participants and legal guardians (where applicable) prior to any instruction or performance assessment.

3. Participants must be in good physical condition and the instructor may require students to gain a physician’s approval prior to in-water training.

4. Participants must be able to tread water for a minimum of ten minutes and must be able to swim.

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5. Participants must have their own diving mask, snorkel, fins and any other buoyancy devices and other accessories deemed necessary. Performance Criteria Pass a theoretical examination with at least 65% Must pass all the practical tests Must log at least 5 snorkel dives and have these verified. The student will demonstrate competence in selecting, preparing, adjusting, checking, cleaning, storing and using the appropriate equipment. The student will learn and demonstrate

• Be able to swim 200m freestyle any stroke - without rest • Be able to float on back for 5 minutes with slight arm and leg movement • Tread water with a 5kg weight for 3 minutes • several techniques to enter and exit the water safely • techniques to equalise ear, sinus and mask air spaces • Recover 3 objects in one duck dive at a 5m depth. • Swim underwater by finning only for a distance of 25m • Breathe through snorkel with head under the water for 3 minutes • Static apnea breathhold for 1 minute • Demonstrate lifesaving technique by towing a buddy for 50 m. Continue with resuscitation techniques on dry land

• Proper breathing and airway control • clearing a flooded dive mask • breathing from and clearing a snorkel

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• buoyancy control • several floating techniques • several above water swimming techniques • several below water swimming techniques • kicking using only fins for propulsion • treading water without fins and with fins • cramp release • proper duck diving • proper descent and ascent techniques • diver to diver and diver to boat communications signals • the buddy system Additional Extended Range Freediver Performance Criteria:

• selection of suitable dive sites • safe entry and exit of water

• proper weighting for buoyancy control at different depths • rescue of an unconscious diver • towing techniques for tired divers • activation of local medical procedures • first aid for common marine injuries • how to recognize an unconscious diver • how to evaluate currents, tides and waves • identification of common fish and marine species • identification and avoidance of common marine hazards The 4 Level Certification Programme for Snorkellers; Skin Divers and Freedivers: 7

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3

1

4

Know Skills Horizontal Assess Assess breath-hold swim

Vertical dive

Static Apnea

1. Snorkel Diver

9

9

10m

5m

1 minute

2. Skin Diver

9

9

25m

15m

2 minutes

3. Extended Range Freediver 4. Master Freediver

9

9

50m

25m

3 minutes

9

9

60m plus

40m plus

4 minutes

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Basic Chemistry and Physics of water Buoyancy – Archimedes Principle; Water Viscosity, Temperature and Heat Loss, Light and Vision, Sound, Pressure – Boyle’s Law

Matter Only about 100 different types of matter elements exist. Ninety are found in the natural environment and the rest are man made in laboratories. All substances living or nonliving are made up of these elements. Atoms An element is a collection of atoms that cannot be decomposed into smaller units (quark?). However they can be changed through nuclear fission, fusion and particle acceleration. Atoms have electrons that orbit around the nucleus at high speed negatively charged and protons positively charged. The neutrons in the nucleus have no charge. Water Water is made up of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom in a bond H2O. Although both hydrogen and oxygen are volatile separately - when they are bonded together as an H2O molecule, the result is quite docile. Seawater Seawater has a number of other base elements in the molecular mixture such as copper, iron, calcium etc and even silver / gold . The largest concentration of base elements in the mixture is sodium chloride or salt NaCl. Seawater has a Specific Gravity that is greater than the fluids in a human body which facilitates reverse osmosis. States of matter States of matter are - solid, liquid, gas. Give an example of water in each state? Pressure and temperature change the state of the molecule of matter. Cold compresses and heat expands the water molecules. Extreme cold causes dense ice to form and extreme heat causes less dense water vapour to form. Pressure has a marked effect on the state of matter ie car radiator boils at a higher temperature. Conductor Water is an excellent conductor of heat 20 times better than air.

Water & light

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Only about 20% of the sun’s light reaches deeper than 30 ft. In the colour spectrum - red begins to fade at 15ft and is seen as grey / black. Orange goes black at 50 ft. Blue and green however can be seen up to 250 ft. It can be seen that water absorbs light as the denser materials in the water block the light. Water & sound Sound and light are similar - they travel in waves, but sound travels better in denser material and that is why sound travels for great distances under water. Water is said to be a good medium for sound travel.

Wales and dolphins can communicate great distances under water over 100 miles with their high pitched, almost sonar sound waves. Echo sounders also use this principle of bouncing sound waves off objects and measuring the distance of the rebound.

Buoyancy – Archimedes Principle A body that is immersed in water will displace water according to the mass / volume / surface area? of the object. Downward pressure will be equalised by upward pressure. Denser fluids specific gravity will exert more upward pressure buoyancy ie salt water more that fresh water. Remember this when selecting weight belts to reach neutral buoyancy in seawater at 15 ft down - buoyancy compensation. Pressure:

Pressure = Force / Area

Diving equipment

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Equipment is an essential element in recreational diving. The proper equipment enables mans adaptation to the underwater environment by allowing him to see clearly and more freely under water. Equipment also protects the sports diver from the cold, scrapes on the sharp corals and the other hazards of the sea. Some basic items of equipment that will be discussed Mask, hood, snorkel, gloves, weight-belt, wetsuit, fins, dive watch and knife Mask These are goggles usually made of silicon rubber and glass have really opened the door to inner-space and allows man to see under water like a fish without distortion and discomfort as it keeps the water away from the eyes. The ideal mask should have a low volume waves, pressure with high peripheral vision sight seeing, hunting, threats . The strap should be of silicon rubber or the modern floater strap. New masks must have the strap adjusted correctly and the silicon preservative cleaned off with toothpaste or dishwasher liquid. Once the mask has been worn in it can be simply prepared for demisting by using a commercial demister or human saliva spit .

See the history and evolution of masks over the last 50 years!

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The face mask is the most important piece of equipment in freediving as it is a window to the undersea universe. The face mask creates an airspace between the eye and the water, without which it would be impossible to focus and a diver would be blind for all intents and purposes. It consists of a face plate of hardened shatter proof glass set into a soft flexible body of silicone rubber that forms a waterproof seal that encapsulates the eyes and the nose of the diver with a head strap to hold it securely in place. Before entering the water it is essential to rub saliva or a commercially available anti-fogging agent onto the inside of the glass and then rinse it out with water. Failure to do so will result in the inside of the mask fogging up and rendering the wearer practically blind. To test that a mask will not leak when you are in the water, flip the headstrap over the front of the mask, incline your head forward so that you are looking at the ground, place the mask in the correct position and sniff a little air out of it to create a vacuum effect. If there are no leaks the mask will stay in position without the support of your hand. The smaller the airspace in the mask the better as it will require less air from your lungs to compensate for the additional external pressure as you descend. A wisp of your hair or the top of a moustache can break the airtight seal around your face. Snorkels

Snorkels are your umbilical cord with the air. It allows divers to breathe on the surface without having to lift their head from the water surface. An average persons head weighs 7 - 9 kg’s. It can be very tiring on your neck and shoulders lifting your head and breathing for long periods in the water try and tread water holding 10kg’s of lead above the water . When your head is partially submerged it effectively weighs a lot less and then you also don’t have the problem of turning to breathe all the time. Also when your head is partially submerged you can also constantly keep watch for approaching threats 12

or prey. The best snorkel is simple, short and thick with a soft silicon rubber mouthpiece. Fancy devices to purge water ie ping-pong-balls and purge valves are not recommended.

See the history of snorkels !

Fins

Swim fins are worn to increase the area of the wearers foot, thereby amplifying the thrust of the leg against the surrounding water and making it possible to swim strongly without using arms. When spearfishing, a person’s arms a have plenty to do, carrying guns, shooting and hopefully subduing one's catch. Fins suitable for spearfishing should comprise of a full foot pocket which has a bladelike extension between two and two and a half foot lengths beyond the wearer's toes. Choose a fin whose blade stiff ness suits your leg strength. Too stiff a blade could cause cramps as could too tight a fit. Select a foot pocket that is a comfortable fit which can be made snug with the aid of a pair of neoprene diving bootees or an old pair of socks - using fins without these can cause bad skin chaffing. Good fins are expensive and when operating through the surf it is advisable to use a leash attached to them similar to those used by surfers. These leashes are available commercially though seldom supplied with the fins. When swimming, point your toes and move your legs with a slight pedalling motion as you would use on a bicycle though the power stroke is with the forward motion as opposed to the backward power stroke when pedalling a bike. Try not to let the fins break surface as you are swimming, the noise and disturbance will alert the fish to your

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presence and waste your energy. Fins are never called flippers by serious divers almost like in the army calling your rifle - “ a gun “ . Fins are also a very important part of your diving equipment. Fins will allow you to propel yourself up to five times faster under water with less than half the energy usage. With fins you begin to feel like a fish under water. Fins can be long or short, narrow or broad depending on the need. Short, broad fins are used for quick bursts of high energy acceleration - such as in under-water hockey or wave riding and serious spearfishermen and deep free-divers use long, medium blade fins for slow, relaxed, energy conservation diving. In-between fins can be used for dual purposes such as shallow water spearfishing, crayfishing and perlemoen diving.

See how fins have changed over time and with different applications !

Exposure and thermal / abrasive protection A wet-suit is both for thermal protection and also protection from abrasion and cuts. Retarding heat loss is particularly important because water conducts heat away from the body 20 times faster than air of the same temperature . Wet-suits come in different thicknesses and styles 1mm lycra suit for tropical water and protection from blue-bottles sharkskin 3mm and 5mm wet-suits with open neoprene cell and closed cell 7mm wet and dry suits for extreme cold conditions The styles are single piece with zip, farmer john with pull-over jacket and velcro / zip options. Fixed and loose hoods are optional extra’s. Wet-suits are an expensive item of equipment and need a lot of inquiry / research before buying one. To be relaxed mentally and physically one must be warm and comfortable and in order to spend any length of time in the water it is wise to acquire some protective clothing which should consist of neoprene foam. A full suit usually consists of a "Farmer John" which covers legs and trunk and a jacket and hood combination plus bootees. In warmer water to the North, 3mm neoprene is adequate and some would say long sleeves and a hood are too warm. Keep in mind that as well as conserving body heat the full suit is vital protection against stings from the various jelly-fish and fire corals which may be encountered during a dive. In more Southern waters 5mm neoprene or even thicker is often preferred especially between May and October when water temperatures drop during Winter. When wearing a neoprene hood care must be taken that the edge of the hood surrounding the face does not interfere with the vital seal between your face and mask and cause a leak to occur. Nothing is more frustrating than water pouring into your mask. It is essential to have a reinforced patch on the point where you place the gun butt when loading your speargun otherwise you will wear a hole in the neoprene. Your local dive shop will be able to help you in this regard.

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Weight -belts This is a canvas or rubber belt with quick release buckle this is critically important and loose lead weights that can be adjusted according to the individual buoyancy requirements and the individual bodies natural buoyancy. An approximate rule of thumb is 1 kg of lead weight for each 10 kg’s of body mass, but this changes according to the unique individuals bone mass and body muscle / fat ratio. Do not forget the different denseness of fresh and sea water. The use of a belt and lead weights are a must for any serious spearfisherman. They are essential in countering the natural buoyancy of the body and allowing the wearer to leave the surface with a minimum of splashing but not so heavy as to cause negative buoyancy at the surface so that a diver would sink the moment forward propulsion ceased. In shallow water 4 to 7 metres it is usual to carry enough lead to achieve neutral buoyancy at about 2.5 to 3 metres while when diving in deeper water 10 to 20 metres or more 4 to 5 metres would be a better option for reasons to be discussed later. It is absolutely essential that a weight belt should have a quick release mechanism that can be operated with one hand should an emergency arise. I have found a belt made of a slightly elastic material such as rubber, to be most comfortable. Distribute the weights evenly around your body otherwise you may end up swimming with a list, which can lead to all sorts of problems.

Knife or tool The biggest danger underwater is entanglement with fishing line or your own equipment. A sturdy diving knife or similar sharp tool can save your life and also help to prize out valuable souvenirs. The knife can be fastened to your leg or arm according to you own preferences. Remember that a diving knife is the most commonly lost pieces of equipment so make sure that yours can be securely fastened to your body. This is an important part of spearfishing equipment with many uses, the main one being to dispatch your catch and to cut yourself free from entanglements. The best place to carry one is in a sheath on the inside of your calf where it is easy to see and use during an emergency. Stainless steel is essential and a flat streamlined weapon of no more than 20 centimetres in total will be adequate.

I know a spearfisherman who now always carries two knifes - one on each leg. We were spearfishing in Lake Kariba in Zimbabwe when he was taken by a 10ft crocodile on the leg. His whole foot, fin and leg was in the crocodile’s jaw up to the knee and he could not get his knife out. Eventually the crocodile let go for a better bite and he could get at his knife which he used to mortally wound the huge beast which eventually let him go.

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Selection of equipment For me cost and quality has 4 rules

1. Never compromise on personal safety. There is no such thing as “ beginner “ diving equipment. Get the best that you can afford or rather wait for a while. New divers need even better equipment than experienced divers.

2. Your equipment must be comfortable. It must fit well and work well. Relaxation is the secret to diving well. Comfortable equipment that works well will allow more energy to stay alert, less stress and less mistakes.

3. Look after your equipment. Keep your equipment in good condition. Maintain it. Clean it. Store it safely - out of the sun’s rays. Always rinse out with fresh water and allow to dry properly before storing.

4. Deal with experienced and knowledgeable people. Do it right first time - this will always save you money, time, happiness in the long run.

Practical

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SPEARGUNS Spearguns, the sharp end of spearfishing. The most practical weapon for underwater spearfishing is the rubber powered speargun. Usually consisting of a wood or aluminium tube - fibreglass and composite graphite barrels are becoming available with a pistol grip housing the trigger mechanism and a muzzle at the other end to which one or two surgical rubber bands are fitted. The 6-7mm spring steel spear is threaded through the muzzle, slid down over the top of the barrel and pushed into the recess above the trigger mechanism where it is held fast. The rubbers are joined at the rearmost end by a short piece of cable and are pulled back until they reach a notch in the spear about 6cm in front of the trigger mechanism. The cable is hooked into the notch so that the rubber is stretched three or more times its length. When the trigger is squeezed the spear is released and catapulted forward by the rapidly contracting rubber and propelled out through the muzzle at high speed through the water towards its target for an effective range of 4 or more times its length. It has a sheet metal stainless steel barb hinged about 8cm from the pointed tip which once driven through a fish will, with a backward pull, open up to approximately 80 degree holding the prey captive. Spearguns vary in length from about 80cm for hunting in caves or very limited visibility to 1.5m or more when the quarry is Mackerel or Tuna in open clean water where long range shooting is the order of the day. A good all round length for general spearfishing, which will do just fine in either situation, is one with a barrel length of 1.1 metres armed with a spear that protrudes about 30cm beyond the end of the muzzle to counter any sag in the shaft between trigger and muzzle which would reduce accuracy. Some guns have a channel along the top of the barrel which supports the spear along its length so that not so much spear is needed beyond the muzzle. A nylon line of at least 150kg breaking strain is attached to a hole just before the loading notch and the other end fastened to the muzzle and is usually four times the spear’s length. The slack is held tight by means of a small hook on the trigger mechanism that is squeezed allowing the spear free flight for the entire length of the line. Never load a speargun out of the water or leave the water with a loaded gun. To load a rubber powered gun is quite simple provided that a certain procedure is followed, when it isn't, I have seen men far stronger than myself give up in disgust after fighting the rubbers for minutes on end to no avail. First of all, wear gloves, they make a big difference.

LOADING A SPEARGUN 1. Hook the fingers of your gloved right hand into the wishbone joining the ends of the surgical rubber. With the left hand take a firm grip of the barrel of the gun about 20cm ahead of the pistol grip

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2. Push the gun forward until you can place the back of the pistol grip onto the centre of the breastbone. 3. Release your grip on the barrel - the gun is now held in position by the tension of the rubbers. Hook your right hand alongside the left under the wishbone, now using both arms draw the rubbers back along the barrel until the wishbone engages the notch on top of the spear. NEVER LOAD A SPEARGUN OUT OF THE WATER AND NEVER TRUST A SAFETY CATCH. THE ONLY SAFETY IS SLACK RUBBERS

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Breakaway Rig When you have shot a big fish and your gun is being towed around deep below you. You are left hanging onto your floatline and begin to feel very vulnerable, especially when sharks are present. The answer is to rig your gun with a breakaway system so that the gun detaches from the floatline and leaves the spear connected directly to the float. You then have the gun in your hands, which although without a spear, is a great psychological comfort in the thousand to one situation when something more than your bare hands are needed to discourage the attention of hostile sealife! Cut a short length of plastic or metal tubing with an inside diameter of about 12mm so that it can be attached to the rear end of your gun barrel with two small cable ties. Now take a 100mm length of 16mm speargun rubber and cut it so that the rear 80mm forms a tapering tail while the front 20mm is left whole. Be sure that the end of the taper fits easily through the plastic tube without having to be forced through. Take the spear end of your floatline and thread it into the tapered end of the rubber and out the other and tie or splice it onto the swivel on the back end of the spear line. Now tie a piece of strong cord very tight around the rubber so that it takes considerable force to move it up or down the floatline. Now, with the spear loaded, string the spearline as

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usual, move the rubber up or down the floatline until the cord around the rubber is in line with the front of the tube. Now push the tail through the tube and pull until the notch pops out the back. The rubber will stay in position until the spear is shot off. I usually hold the floatline under my palm so that a small fish or, a kill shot will not make it necessary to re-rig the rubber. When a big fish runs and you are left holding your gun use the rubbers as a sling over your shoulder while you play the fish on the floatline. Spearfishing Lesson#3 FLOAT, FLOATLINE AND FISH STRINGER The float, floatline and fish stringer are three pieces of equipment that are essential to the serious spearfisherman. A float is used for several reasons, foremost being that it is connected to your gun by the floatline and should you release your gun after shooting a big fish, it aids in subduing the fish and acts as a marker to your guns whereabouts. It also supports your catch as well as being a marker to advertise your presence to any boats in the vicinity. Your float can also be used as a gun carrier when going out through the surf thus leaving your arms free to aid you in swimming through the breaker zone. To attach your gun to the float you will need two small metal hooks or clips on either end of your float. One hooks into the wishbone and the other onto a loop of cord on the gun butt. The distance between the two hooks when fully extended must be short enough to hold the gun rubbers under tension so that neither hook can disengage.

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The floatline is clipped to the front of the float and should be at least 20% longer than the deepest dive you intend to make. The other end is attached to the butt of the gun. The excess line is coiled in a hank with a half hitch on either end about a metre from the float. When a fish is shot and you are not able to surface immediately, the gun can be released and the line played through your hands until you reach the float which will then assist you in fighting the fish. Be careful not to become entangled in the slack line as you retrieve your catch. The best way to avoid this is to swim slowly forward as you retrieve the line. The fish stringer is clipped directly to the end of the float to secure any fish that are shot. It consists of a length of doubled 2mm stainless steel cable with a T piece on one end made of 8mm round stainless bar pointed at one end with a 4mm hole drilled through the centre to accommodate the cable. On the other end is a heavy-duty swivel, which is attached to the clip on the float. When a fish has been subdued and killed the sharp end of the bar is pushed through one eye socket and out the other thereby securing your catch. Only then remove the spear. Boat Diving Diving from a boat has many advantages including fast transport to far-flung spearfishing areas and a safe base within calling distance. Add to that the fact that the all seeing electronic fish finder can be carried which makes it possible to locate reefs and the fish concentrations on them without having to rely on landmarks which can be unreliable for various reasons. The main points of boat safety are written into the rules and regulations common to all boat users, but there are certain points which apply specifically to craft used for spearfishing, these include♦ No loaded guns aboard – rubber protected spear points face the rear transom . ♦ An experienced boat-handler to be aboard at all times. Take the time to train all the crewmembers on board how to take over the boat in case of an emergency. ♦ The anchor must have a float attached to the line so that it can be thrown overboard instead of being hauled in should a diver need the boat in an emergency. ♦ It is everyone’s responsibility to keep the balance correct. If divers are coming aboard on the port side step over to the starboard especially with small deep-vee ski-boats ♦ Keep the decks clear at all times, coil your floatline before coming aboard and place speared fish into the hatch immediately. Don’t leave loose ropes lying around. ♦ Dive upstream from an anchored boat so that you can get back. ♦ Divers down Alpha flag to be used whilst spearfishing is in progress.

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♦ Know what signal you will give when you need to be picked up. Usually this is your gun being held vertically out the water or waved side to side in an emergency. ♦ For a comfortable ride in a choppy sea place weight-belts in the forward hatch and divers near the back. On launching weigh in front and on beaching weight at back. ♦ When a fishing hot-spot is located use a small marker buoy such as an orange bottle, 30 metres of thick fishing line and a diving weight to mark the spot. ♦ If diving from an inflatable boat take care not to puncture it when handing fish aboard by spines and teeth. Kill your fish before putting them on board. ♦ Arrange with other divers how you'll mark your fish for sorting later i.e. cut off bottom or top of tail fin The skipper does not have to mark fish and all unmarked ones belong to him. ♦ The boat must always approach divers from the down wind side so as not to drift over their floatlines and buoys or even over the diver himself. The dive boat should, above all else be designed to provide a stable platform when entering and returning from the water. The sides towards the rear should be low and well rounded so as to make it easy on divers coming on board. It should have as much clear and uncluttered deck space as possible. Seats, such as those of fishing boats should be dispensed with. Hatch lids, which are raised more than twenty centimetres or more above deck level provide adequate seating for divers for the short time that they are on board. Spearo’s spend more time in the water hopefully than on board the boat anyway. DIVING FROM A KAYAK Diving from a kayak offers a spearo many of the advantages of boat diving but eliminates the dependency on others since it can be launched and operated by one person. The kayak affords the diver fast transit to and from productive areas, which in many cases are a considerable distance apart and can take much time and energy to transverse. In southern waters this translates to a great deal of body heat loss and a consequential shortening of dive-time. It also offers a secure base and fast transport to shore in case of an emergency. They are made in both single and double configuration, the typical single diver craft is from 3.5 to 4 metres in length and 70 to 80cm in width, weighing from 20 to 35kgs depending on the size and material used in construction. Theoretically, the longer and flatter from stem to stern that the craft is, the faster and easier it will paddle. In ideal conditions this is true but when surf launches and choppy conditions are a regular feature of operations, there has to be a compromise and a slight up-sweep of the nose makes the craft much more versatile when these conditions are encountered. Choose a kayak with internal storage space which will also give access to the inner hull which makes it easy to add extra fittings to the deck for securing diving gear and fish 22

bags etc. Before a launch, even in flat-water conditions, it is essential to do a safety check on your craft. Hatches fastened down, plugs in and all external gear well secured. Speartips should be covered with a short piece of surgical rubber, this itself being secured to the deck by a cord. The paddling and handling of a kayak in various water conditions is well covered in a number of publications available from the dealers who sell kayaks and adequately cover all aspects of operating them., However actual spearfishing from these craft is seldom mentioned and some of the basic points to bear in mind are - before attempting to spearfish from these craft it is essential to practice leaving and remounting which is just as important a skill as how to paddle correctly. Having reached the area in which you intend to dive there are two methods to spearfish from these craft. First by anchoring the kayak by using a small anchor which can be made from a small piece of metal tubing and 5mm mild steel rod attached to one or two metres of chain on a line of 5mm polyprop wound on a light plastic drum. Once the kayak is positioned, hunt up-current so that your return trip will be easy, even if you were totally exhausted or cramping. As an extra precaution play out a floatline off the stern so even if you missed your craft you could grab the floatline and pull yourself in hand over hand. The other option is to anchor your floatline onto the bow of the kayak and tow it as you would your float remembering to keep a loop of slack so that when you dive the pull of your super size float will only affect you when you reach the end of the loop of slack.

• Remember as when diving from any craft the divers flag should be flown at all times. Once you stop spearfishing and are returning to shore be sure the deck is clear of loose gear and cords of any description and everything on deck is secured.

WHERE TO SHOOT FISH It is extremely important to place your spear in a vital spot when spearing fish. The most practical target is the spine. The spine starts behind the head at the top of the main gill opening, curves over the gut cavity then drops to the centre of the body just ahead of the centre dorsal and anal fins and continues in a straight line to the centre of the tail. A good spine shot will immediately incapacitate the fish. If this is the case do not attempt to pull it to the surface by hauling on the spear or line. The shaft may only be resting on nerves and the undue pulling could move it enough for the fish to recover all its faculties, struggle violently and tear off the spear. If the spine is not hit. then head for the surface allowing the line to run through your fingers but try to keep enough pressure on it so that the fish is not allowed to head into a cave or other obstruction. Once on the surface play the fish as you would on any handline, taking into, consideration where your spear is placed. If it is in the area where the meat is soft you will have to work slowly and gently if it is not to tear off. Should the spear be embedded near the dorsal or anal fins where there is a network of small bones then more pressure can be used as is the case with a head shot provided that the spear has penetrated right 23

through and the barb is open on the other side. The only time you need to dive is if the line becomes fouled on some obstruction or other. Having stalked, shot and subdued a fish up to the point where it is now within your reach, the prospect of actually handling a sizeable game-fish and dispatching it can be quite a problem. This is a time when things can go horribly wrong, ending up with nothing but a hard luck story to take home. The following sequence is tried and tested and should become automatic. First take hold of the spear with your left hand, taking care not to touch the fish and be ready to release it should the fish struggle excessively. With your right hand take a firm grip of the tail-base peduncle, release the spear and position your left hand next to the main gill plate, as the gills open, insert your fingers and hold on tight. Release the tail and draw your knife. Dispatch the fish by inserting the blade on top of the head behind the eyes. The right spot being that formed by an eqilateral triangle, the eyes forming the points of the base and the target being the apex. Once the fish is dead insert the stringer in one eye socket and out the other before removing the spear. To remove the spear hold the barb against the shaft, push it back into the fish and withdraw it slowly while rotating the spear between your fingers to stop the barb from opening up inside the fish. Fish that have very broad peduncles, making it impossible to hold the tail make it necessary to go straight for the gills after getting hold of the spear. This often necessitates throwing an arm around the fish's head before it is possible to get a hand in the gills. When this is the case be careful that the speartip is not protruding where you grab otherwise the fish could have its revenge by spearing you! AIMING AND FIRING The most reliable way to aim at a fish is to align the spear or gun with the spine so that even if there was an error of 10 cm either way, the spear would still strike near centre. If you aim by looking over the top of the gun where the error would be up or down the same amount of error would result in, at worst a complete miss. At best a shot that would not incapacitate the fish at all and a very good chance of the spear tearing out especially if the shot was low and into the very soft flesh of the belly.

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TRACKING FAST MOVING FISH Water being so much denser than air, gives wonderful support. Even a long gun can be held with one hand in the out-stretched position. The other side of the coin is that this great density that makes objects so much lighter, works against us when it comes to maneuvering the gun, and whereas above water one can track a moving target quickly and with ease, this is not possible underwater. Here the gun must be held retracted and close to the body until sufficient lead has been gained and only then should your arm be extended and the shot be taken in a single smooth movement. For a right handed diver a fish moving down his left side poses no problem in tracking but the same fish travelling down his right side causes most divers to make some very awkward maneuvers. In order to bring the gun to bear the ideal solution is to change hands, however not everyone is ambidextrous and feel awkward shooting with their non-dominant hand. This situation can be solved by simply rolling onto your left-side and tracking towards your feet until enough lead is attained. As one progresses in the sport you will no doubt find ways of shooting fish that will suit your particular style but the foregoing will give you a firm ground to proceed THE APEX OF AN EQUILATERAL TRIANGLE WITH THE EYES FORMING THE BASE IS THE KILLSPOT FOR A KNIFE THRUST

WHERE TO FIND FISH Rocky Points, Gullies and Off-shore Reefs are great fish hangouts. Undersea profiles such as shipwrecks attract all kinds of reef fish and game-fish. Hunting fish are seasonal and many variables govern their presence or absence. Remember many more fish see you – than you see ! Visitations of pelagic gamefish rise and decline with the movement of baitfish. If you find an area of reef seldom dived or fished on try to spread your catch of reef fish over as wide an area as possible or even better, concentrate on the non residents that are passing through. Shoalfish, mackerel etc. can absorb the pressure but the resident population

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can't. That is the reason in many reserve areas throughout the world, reef fish are totally protected while taking of gamefish is still allowed ie Sodwana; Cape Vidal

When hunting over reef which has many caves and overhangs dive regularly and if you see fish on your way down try to reach the bottom within shooting range but with cover of some sort between you and the fish. Do not swim directly towards a fish but rather swim to a point ahead and to one side that will put you within range of it and try not to make direct eye contact but look obliquely at it until you are ready to shoot. Many fish swim in shoals. Usually the fish are of very similar size, so if you get within range of such a group, shoot at the earliest target. Excessive moving of your speargun as you change your aim to fish that may be 10 % bigger than its companions could startle one fish and cause the whole shoal to scatter. At least 50% of the fish you shoot will be victims of their own curiosity. Having seen you disappear among some rocks or under a ledge they just have to investigate. Lucky for us otherwise we would only shoot half the fish that we do. Many reef dwelling fish spend most of the daylight hours in the shelter of caves or rocky overhangs and when hunting over reefs with this kind of terrain spend as much time as possible on the bottom investigating such places. As you approach a cave close one eye as you start your dive and open it again as your face-mask enters the shadows. By doing this you will eliminate the few seconds it takes to adjust to the darkness, seconds in which a fish could make good its escape to some inaccessible recess that you may never reach or simply leave via the back door. Keep your gun well back so as not to give any prior warning of your arrival and if you are using a gun with two rubbers unload one as an overpowered gun can destroy a speartip in a cave. If you are hunting in poor visibility and find a productive cave it is very easy to lose its exact location while resting on the surface between dives especially if there is a current running. In these conditions carry a bright tin lid or white painted object to mark the spot and save yourself a lot of frustration. HUNTING TECHNIQUES

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Hunting underwater does not differ greatly from that on dry land, the same basic principles apply: observance, stealth and common sense. A spearfisherman is one of the slowest, and least suited of all creatures to take prey by the direct method of straight pursuit and could not possibly out-swim any of his intended victims. Therefore stealth is the most important skill to develop. Before you begin to hunt, flush out any small pockets of air that maybe trapped in your suit by diving down and rolling about until there are no signs of bubbles emerging. In most cases fish tend to congregate where there are reefs. These are areas of rock that protrude through the sea-bed and afford anchorage for weed, coral, molluscs and hundreds of other marine organisms on which the fish feed and find shelter. In cooler water down south one finds kelp forests and many smaller species of seaweed forming vast beds that attract the gamefish that prey on the resident smaller fish. In the north where the water is much warmer the weed beds are replaced by coral reefs that act in the same way. Usually the edges of the reef where the rocks give way to sand are the most productive areas and as a rule of thumb, the end of the reef facing into the current is most favoured by the fish. Reefs in water near to the shore are clearly visible when the water is clean and appear as dark areas against the surrounding sand. Where they occur in quite shallow water close to the surf-line the waves build up steeper and sometimes break as they pass over them. When viewed from high ground before entering the water they will appear closer than they actually are. Once in the water spotting them from the surface is not so easy but very often as one gets within 50-60m of them it is possible to locate them audibly as the millions of inverterbrates, especially some species of shrimp cause a crackling sound that can even be heard through your neoprene hood. When hunting every movement must appear unhurried and smooth as fast erratic movements and splashing will alarm your intended prey. Open your mouth as you dive so that your snorkel will flood from the bottom thereby allowing all air to leave it at the surface and avoid a string of bubbles trickling out especially as you level off. The air bubbles and accompanying noise can be very alarming to fish, as can any other sudden movements. Keep your head turning all the time especially when visibility is poor for the smaller, your circle of visibility the quicker a fish can swim through it. For example should you be able to see 4m all round that gives you an 8 metre circle of visibility. A slow moving fish can bisect this in as little as 8 to 10 seconds and if you were looking in one direction for even half this time you could miss seeing, it let alone do anything about it. Looking behind is best accomplished by inclining your head forward until your chin is touching your chest, not by looking over your shoulder as you would when standing upright. When the visibility is good, that is over 8 metres or in some places 20 metres or more, especially when hunting over reef. It is not so much looking for fish, but looking for movement, which is much easier to detect than is the indistinct outline of a reef fish resting amongst the rocks. This is especially important when you have a large area of reefs to be covered in a limited amount of time. Usually the most productive area being where the reef meets the sand, especially if the area involves an abrupt drop-off a metre or so. Unlike gamefish which sometimes arrive in vast shoals which can be here today

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and gone tomorrow, it is important to conserve the resident reef fish population, as once they have been decimated by overfishing by any means the reefs becomes bare. Self Test

1. Analyse and discuss all the components and accessories of a speargun and all of your spearfishing equipment. Give advice to a beginner on what is good quality equipment.

2. Show and practice how to load a speargun. 3 Different techniques tummy, chest, foot . Reload speargun under water.

3. Target practice on fish targets in a deep swimming pool. Swim across the pool under water and then shoot the target. Try and reload under water and shoot again.

4. Breathing techniques. Deep, shallow, blow out CO2, stretch your lungs, gulp air. 5. Breathholding techniques. Conserve air in your cheeks and throat. Hold for 2 minutes if you can. Get a buddy to watch you closely. Check your fingernails for blueness.

6. Make up own gun from components. Clips, knots, repairs, replace monofilament. 7. Swimming techniques. Long distance 1km on the surface. Crawl, Doggy-paddle, dolphin kick, Breast-stroke, legs only.

8. Duck diving techniques 9. Theoretical Knowledge & Practical Skills 10. Buoy line rolling up and securing. Packing equipment on boat. FREE BREATH HOLD SNORKEL DIVING The secret of good diving is relaxation. Mental relaxation as well as physical relaxation. The snorkel diver's time below is limited not only by the amount of air he can get into his lungs but also by the amount of physical exercise that takes place during a dive. The lungs supply oxygen to the blood stream where it is used in both physical and mental effort. Except for those muscles that you are using for a specific job, your whole body from head to toe, should be completely relaxed. In this way you will be able to conserve precious oxygen. The brain also uses a great deal of oxygen and if you dive while highly excited or disturbed your underwater time will be cut down to a fraction of what it should be. BUOYANCY

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Before you begin diving in open water you must determine exactly the amount of lead weight you require on your weight-belt so that you will reach negative buoyancy at about four metres. After you pass this depth you can relax completely and simply glide silently down without expending precious oxygen in doing so. The reason that positive buoyancy is desirable above four metres is that when returning to the surface, it is at this level that shallow water black-out is most likely. This is when the water pressure on your body is decreasing - that the oxygen in your blood will flow back to the lungs and could cause you to blackout, therefore it is essential that if this happens to you, that you would float to the surface. If at any stage of the dive you should feel dizzy, as if you are about to lose consciousness, activate the quick release on your weight-belt immediately. Even it it's lost it's a small price to pay for your life!

SUSPENDED DROP WEIGHTS This is a variation on constant weight freediving / spearfishing and can save a lot of energy when diving in deep water.

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THE DUCK DIVE The easiest way to leave the surface is the duck dive, which should be practised in a swimming-pool or protected area before any serious open-water diving is undertaken. Lie on the surface, face down. Relax completely and breathe slowly and deeply for a while, concentrating on exhaling as much air as possible as you go on filling your lungs to capacity. Hold the last breath and begin the dive by rolling forward until the top of your body as far as the hips, is pointing downwards with your arms extended in front of you. While doing this, the knees are drawn up towards the stomach and then straighten out above the surface so that they are now in line with the rest of the body. The weight of your legs will propel you down and you can speed things up by giving a backward pull with your free hand. By the time your hand is against your side your feet will be below the surface and you can fin down slowly until you reach the point where the pressure renders you negatively buoyant, after which little or no finning is required to reach the bottom. Though your chest may have a too full feeling as you take the last deep breath, this will be relieved as the water pressure compresses the volume of air in your lungs. As you pass the three metre mark you will find it necessary to compensate for the pressure on your eardrums described under Mask. At the same time if you go deep enough you will need to exhale a little air through the nose into the mask to prevent the water pressure forcing it against your face. On your first few attempts you will probably feel the need to surface for air after a short time. As in everything practise makes perfect and as you progress and become more self-confident and relax in the water, the time you are able to hold your breath will increase. When you feel the urge to breathe and are heading for the surface, continue to relax and fin with long even strokes upwards. Do not rush up to the surface, as the faster you swim, the more breathless you will be by the time you reach the surface and the longer you will have to rest – recovery time. Keep a 180 degree lookout by spiraling a few times on the way up and look up when you feel you are near the surface to avoid swimming into your diving buddy or some floating object. As you break surface there is no need to lift your face from the water, simply blow hard to clear your snorkel and continue breathing in the face down position so that you can observe what is going on below at all times. Many divers, when working in deep water feel it prudent to remove some weight from their belt so that they can ascend with less effort, especially on the last 10 metres from the bottom when their lungs and neoprene wetsuits are compressed and less buoyant. This is a valid point, but in removing the weight they have to use more effort at the beginning of the dive to overcome the extra buoyancy caused. This is when you should be relaxing completely to allow your heart-rate to slow down. To prove this to yourself, try this test in a pool with a buddy standing by. Relax for a while on the surface and then do your normal five to seven slow breaths, hold the last deep breath and submerge. Now lie still,

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and relax for half the time you consider your maximum, then swim underwater for 50 metres which an average diver should manage O.K. Now try to do this in reverse, go through your breath holding routine, submerge and immediately swim 50 metres underwater and as you finish try to hold your breath for the same time you did in the first instance. Not much chance of that ! The solution I found to this problem is to attach a weight from your belt to a temporary loop 6 metres from your float. Hold this in your hand, then as you reach this depth release the weight and continue the dive as normal. After this you should sink fast enough to require little or no effort on your part and the ascent will be correspondingly easier.

Contact numbers

• F.I.S.H. 4 Africa – 0826102564 Deon Strydom • ORCA Trading - 011 4358750 Craig and Wayne 31

• Dive Factory - 031 3012241 Rob Allan • Rabitech – 021 9030442 Louis Hattingh • Medical - 0824918179 Dr Dirk Alberts • Underwater hockey - 012 338109 Lynette Bosch • Gauteng-North Underwater Blue GNU’s – 083 633 2851 Len Turner • CMAS ISA – Michael Holthauzen and Frank

Exercises #

Gym Routine

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Dry Routine endurance, strength, muscles

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Pool session beginners training for freediving, winter training

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Meditation

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Breathing

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Running sprinting uphill, cardio vascular

Tips

• Energy conservation when diving long times • Eating habits before, during and after diving meat ? pasta ? carbohydrates ? blood usage in digestion

• Energy boosters corn syrup, coke, chocolates, peanuts • Allergies - beer yeast , dairy products - slime • Mozambique venues Ponta Mallongane, Ponta de Oura, Torfu, Coconut Bay, Pandane, Ponta Barra, Morrungulu, Guinjatta, Island Rock 32

• Natal Venues Sodwana, Cape Vidal Levin Point , Umhloti, Umhlanga, Veggies Pier, Bluff, Cutting, Warner Beach, Umgababa, Umkomaas, Scottburrough, Rocky Bay, Baysley

• Deep Dives Aliwal Shoal dropoffs, Protea Banks • Cape Venues Kei Mouth, Gonubie, Oranjeland, Igoda, Cove Rock, Port Alfred, Cannon Rocks, Bird Island, Port Elizabeth, Jeffreys Bay, Cape St Francis, Knysna, Mosselbaai, Stilbaai, Cape Town, West Coast.

Shore Dives

If you don’t know the area or if you have not dived at the place for a while

• Stand and check the whole scene out for a long time Check tides, currents, entry / exit points - contingency plans, time of day, wind, weather forecast

• Choose a safe place to enter the water and plan your exit route upstream - projected swim and downstream - projected drift have a contingency plan

• Tell someone reliable on the shore what your dive plan is • Never dive alone • If in doubt of anything - rather cancel the dive What do you do in the event of a backwash on the way out or way in ?

Getting washed onto the rocks Do not dive to close to above surface or partially submerged rocks, blinders or reefs. The currents and waves are much more powerful in these areas quick depth reductions and current bottlenecks . However this is also a prime spot for fish that feed in the white water and strong currents. If you get too close to such rocks and the undertow sucks you in - try and powerfully fight to get away for a short time. If you see that your efforts are in vain, just relax and go with the flow even if it means getting cut up and bruised by the rocks. Protect your head and vital organs and try and swim with the current until you reach a more protected area.

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Getting caught in a backwash When you are caught in a backwash or rip tide and you cannot fight against it, just go with the flow. A person can survive for long periods of time in the sea with fins, mask, snorkel and wetsuit. If you need to, ditch your weight-belt and just relax. Don’t panic. Tides move in great circles and before long you will be swept back to the shore. Remember this when you are swimming too. Even if you are swept for kilometers downstream - you will be safe and will eventually return to safe terra firma. SURF ENTRY The open ocean is seldom calm and usually forms a pounding surf-line one hundred or so metres from the shore, depending on the size of the waves and the contour of the bottom. It might seem, to a beginner, a daunting task or even an impenetrable barrier to someone loaded down with speargun, weight-belt, mask etc. However, provided you are reasonably fit and tackle the problem in the right way, moderate surf should not bar you from what is the best of spearfishing areas. As far as swimming fitness goes, make sure that if you were ever badly dumped by an excessively big wave and lost your equipment you would be able after jettisoning your weight-belt to make it back to the shore unassisted. To ignore this fundamental rule is to show disregard not only for your own safety but for that of your diving companion who might have to come to your assistance. A beginner should never be tempted into heavy surf because he sees more experienced divers swimming out. It takes time to learn the way of the surf and it is best to gain experience in moderate conditions. Always plan a dive before you leave the beach, besides deciding upon the point of entry, plan where you will meet beyond the backline should you become separated on the way out. Most important of all decide where you intend to make your return trip to the beach. Preferably this should be clear of any outgoing current and where you will not encounter rocks as you exit the water. Select your entry point where an outgoing rip will assist you, identified by a strip of water usually at the end of a bay where it is much flatter and there is less foam than the surrounding area. Arrange to meet opposite a prominent landmark, high enough to be seen from water level. A prominent tree or your own car can provide a suitable landmark. To be really accurate, line up two landmarks one behind the other. This should put you within metres of each other. As most of the waves on any given day will be roughly the same size and distance apart, they will break in the same depth of water as it shallows off towards the beach, forming a constant line of breaking surf. After leaving the beach, swim steadily until you are close to the main surfline. Slow down and wait until a wave breaks in front of you and if there seems to be a gap before the next one, swim as fast as possible to cross the danger zone, while keeping a constant lookout in case you need to dive again. Do not stop until you see deeper water under you, and you have left the breaking surf behind. Getting back to the beach is also a matter of timing your swim. Get close behind the breaker-line and try to make your crossing during a lull immediately after a wave has broken and there seems to be a gap before another big one threatens.

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Swim as hard as you can for at least thirty metres or more. I find it best to swim on my right side so I can keep a lookout behind for any waves that threaten to break on me. I wear my snorkel on the left side of my mask so swimming on my right side keeps it clear of the water. If on your return trip, you feel that you aren't making progress you may have strayed into an outgoing current in which case turn 90 degrees and swim paralll to the beach, until you see, by watching the bottom, that you are no longer being swept seaward, then resume your original course. As you reach the shallow water near the beach where you can stand, roll on your back and stand up facing the waves and exit the water in reverse so as not to trip over your own fins. ENTERING THE WATER Watch over your shoulder for a break in the shoredumpers then walk backwards into the water which is easier to do with long fins attached to your feet. Swim out towards the main line of breakers raising your head every few seconds while swimming through the smaller banks of foam then slow up as you approach the main line of breakers and try to cross the point during a lull. If a big one threatens to break on you dive below it while holding your mask in place especially as you break surface again.

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Don’t lose equipment Many people lose equipment when shore diving as they enter or exit the wave zone. When dumped by a wave - with low volume goggles the chances of the wave knocking off your goggles are reduced. Make sure that the retaining strap is firm and that the snorkel is securely attached to the goggles. Bite down onto the snorkel and even if the goggles are washed off your face you will be able to save them. Make sure that your fins have safety rubber retaining straps and that your fins fit your feet firmly. Try and reduce the angle of drag on the fins. If one or more of your fins are knocked off - try with all your might to grab at least one of the fins before they sink. If you get washed out to sea you can swim for many hours with fins without getting exhausted. Ensure that your knife is well fastened to your arm / leg and that the retaining clip works well. It is advisable to buy a knife that has two different forms of retaining clips. Remember - knifes are the most frequently lost pieces of equipment. I have lost at least 5 37

knives at sea so far - but on the bright side I have found at least 3 so far. Maybe the diving knife market is the one to get into if you want to get rich quickly . Weight - belts are normally very heavy up to 10 kg’s . In the white water - that is very oxygenated weight belts get very heavy discuss boat cavitation. If you are in trouble in the sea, do not hesitate to ditch your weight belt. Without a weight - belt your wet suit will act as a lifejacket and you cannot sink. Your buoy is also a floating life preserver. If you get tired pull it in close and hang on between waves. When a wave comes - try and duck dive under the wave. There is much less turbulence the deeper you dive as the water above absorbs some of the wave energy. Let me tell you the story of when I was far at sea and 3 tidal waves of more than 20 metres came through . Oceanography Waves and currents are generated mostly by winds blowing over the water surface kinetic energy from air motion to water motion. This causes movement of water that finally reaches the shallower bottom and breaks near the shore. The water particles travel in a cycle and return to their original position Wavelength Crest

Wave Height Trough

Wave Period the passage of two wave crests with respect to a fixed reference point When the water particle cycle feels bottom or shoals, the cycle becomes elliptical as the shallower water reduces the wave velocity due to bottom drag. The wave period remains constant, wave length decreases and wave height increases. Currents Longshore Currents run parallel with the shore Rip Currents Are surges of water escaping through a narrow point or bottleneck ie Inhaca Island “ Hells Gate “ or Ponta Barra’s “ Washing Machine “ lighthouse point . Tides - this is the redistribution of the world’s surface water caused mainly by the gravitational pull of the moon and other astral bodies. High tide occurs every 12 hours 26 minutes.

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Spring tide - when the moon is directly between the sun and the earth the combined gravitational pull causes highest and lowest tides full and new moon – 2 per month. This is an excellent spearfishing time. Neap tide - when the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon are at right angles to each other. This causes very little tidal movement. Mediocre spearfishing time. Flood and Ebb tides this is when the tide is coming in high – excellent spearfishing time and going out low – poor spearfishing time, good crayfishing time . Geographics South Africa is three quarters surrounded by sea and is really one big point for diving. We have the best of two oceans Atlantic and Indian with the extremes of icy cold plankton enriched green water currents and wonderfully warm with game fish thriving in blue water currents. South Africa is one of the best spearfishing spots in the world for all round species of fish and spearfishing conditions. A spearfisherman must be able to dive the “ Deep Blue “ gamefish ie Wahoo, King Mackerel off our East Coast, the reef fish ie Yellow Belly Rockcod, Dagger Salmon of the rocky outcrops and caves of the Transkei Wild Coast and the Kelp forest fish ie Red Roman; Galjoen of the West Coast to be able to say that he has dived South Africa.

Hunting fish

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What types of fish to hunt?

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Which fish are protected, restricted, and exploitable? see attachment

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The big 5 game-fish and the big 5 bottom-fish!

BRINGING IN A FISH Take hold of the spear – the fish will feel the new vibrations on the spear and begin to quiver with nervousness, don't pull too hard on it, because the fish will violently react and the barb could pull out of the enlarged spear wound and guide yourself towards the fish rather than pull the fish towards you until the tail is within reach. Then grasp the base of the fish’s tail with your free hand, thumb towards you as illustrated and hang on hard while you force your other hand into the gills and hold tight, release the tail, draw your knife and dispatch the fish with a stab to the brain. Do not remove the spear until the fish

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is on the stringer. Do not be fooled by a “dead fish“ and relax your hold on it. Many fish play dead and then suddenly come to life as you relax your grip and swim out of your grasp – perhaps to get away forever. Getting into range to hunt fish The biggest secret about hunting fish is either that you get the fish to come to you with wary enthusiasm or you stalk the fish with great care. There are so many variables when hunting fish that each spearfisherman develops his / her own pattern or modus operandi. Just feeding yourself and your family, as opposed to hunting fish commercially - or hunting trophy fish are vastly different in their approach.

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These are the sharp-eyed hunters of open water where ambush doesn't come into the equation. The only fish you are going to shoot are the curious and stupid, fortunately for us there are a good sprinkling of both to be found among the fish population. To turn the former to our advantage we have flashers, usually consisting of pieces of highly polished metal, usually stainless steel, suspended from a small float from the surface along a length of fishing nylon line. Either wave action or jerking by hand causes the pieces of metal to flash in the sunlight thereby attracting predatory fish from some distance, depending on visibility. When you are lying on the surface working a flasher keep a sharp lookout checking the area in a circular motion avoiding the trap of staring at the flashing metal yourself and standing a chance of missing an investigating gamefish lurking on the edge of visibility. When a fish is sighted moving in to investigate, swim down the flasher line on the opposite side to the fish and circle round as if you were checking the flashing metal. Avoid looking directly at your intended victim and heading towards a point where your course will bring you within shooting range without swimming directly towards your target. Should the fish turn and begin to swim away it will usually be at an angle so that it can still observe you with one or the other of its eyes. In this case swim after it without any acceleration of pace, staying a little below its level. If it is watching you along its left side, move to the right of its tail so that to keep you in sight it will have to turn to its right. The second it does this, switch again to the left of its tail, as you do this the fish will often panic and either swim quickly out of range or as very often happens turn 90 degree left allowing you a second or so to close in for a broadside shot. Many times if you hang in mid-water perhaps 4 or 5 metres below the surface holding onto your floatline to prevent yourself sinking further, open water gamefish will swim up to investigate. Do not make direct eye contact, keep perfectly still until it's within range, extend your gun smoothly and make your shot. Should it move off before it is in range release your hold on the floatline and providing you have not been down too long, go into the tailchase as described previously. Another method of bringing gamefish in range is “ burlying “ That is cutting a fish up into small pieces and allowing these pieces to drift along in the current to form a trail that will hopefully lead fish to your immediate area.

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This method also works well for many types of reef fish but can also attract the attention of less welcome species i.e sharks. Some general tips Fish Attracting Devices FAD’s

• Flashers / lures - this is a device that either resembles small bait fish, or wounded fish, or just is interesting and flashy enough to attract a fishes attention. Flashers are normally hung from their own little buoy and hang directly under the spearfisherman. When a gamefish comes in to investigate, this gives the spearo time to dive down and stalk the fish.

• FAD’s – these are anchored buoys with bits of jetsam / flotsam ie palm tree fronds, floating logs tied up to them. Very soon these serve as hiding places for small fish. This attracts the game fish. FAD’s work well for Dorado Dolphin-fish .

• Chumming Burley - this is making a chosen area very appealing to fish by adding fishy smells and tastes to the water. Fresh or frozen fish can be mashed up into a rough paste and either introduced into the water in small amounts or through a constant feeder such as a chum missile

• Chum missile - this is a great method to mark wrecks and reefs and at the same time attract fish. It works particularly well with red snapper. Take a 600 mm section of 40 mm PVC sewer pipe and drill it full of 10 mm holes. Use PVC cement to glue a cap on one end and a threaded cap on the other end. Drill a hole in the threaded cap and tie your marker buoy to it. Weight your chum missile with lead sinkers. Load the missile with roughly mashed up fresh or frozen fish and lower it to the desired area. Watch how quickly the area becomes a “hot -spot“ for fish life.

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Buoy

Chum missile ( fishy smells )

Reef / seabed

Sea – sickness!

“Green around the gills “

Sea-sickness or motion sickness is not uncommon amongst divers and most people will get a taste of mal-de-mer at some time or the other in their freediving / spearfishing careers. Even pro’s puke on occasion ! The three basic stages of sea-sickness are 1. Wondering if you are going to die 2. Praying that you won’t die 3. Wishing that you would die Some serious advice for sea-sickness sufferers •

For severe motion sickness ask your doctor about Stemetil prochlorperazine suppositories. Insert the suppository half an hour before travel. It will last about eight hours and may be repeated within 24 hours. If you prefer, an initial injection followd by oral tablets can also be used. Beware of side effects.

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• • •

Over the counter standby’s like cyclizine, cinnarizine and dimenhydrinate. These are available as pills, liquids and syrups. Not recommended for diving as side effects – drowsiness. Try ginger root commonly available NASA astronauts use ginger . For thousands of years this herb has been used to calm stomachs. Some claim that two powdered ginger capsules are more powerful than a dose of Dramamine. Alternative therapy people have even tried acupressure wristbands, acupuncture and hypnosis. Epilepsy medication ie epinutin has also been tried . There are some weird and wonderful old wive’s tales too.

Tips 9 Be well rested, don’t party all night and expect to feel good next day. 9 Focus on a stationary faraway point in the sky or land. 9 Sit still and keep your head still, don’t roll around in the fish hatch. 9 Avoid strong smells ie ripe fish bait, petrol fumes, garlic sandwiches. 9 Relax, breathe normally and think positive thoughts. 9 Avoid alcohol and cigarettes hangovers are the worst. 9 Try and eat a little if it helps you. 9 If you are vomiting – drink lots of liquids to avoid dehydration. 9 If all else fails – pay the boat skipper lot’s to take you to terra firma.

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Shallow Water Black-out: the single biggest danger whilst Freediving, Snorkelling and Spearfishing

Danger zone !!!

O Initial levels

Cut-off point

2

Safe breathhold zone 80% of cut-off

=l CO2

Reduced residual CO2 levels due to hyperventilation

Time = t Graphical representation of delicate balance between residual useful Oxygen levels and Carbon Dioxide levels over a period of time Note dangerous reduction of residual levels due to hyperventilation

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Shallow - water Blackout the Freediver’s / Spearfisherman’s worst enemy !

How many times have you heard, “ you are your own worst enemy “ ? With Freediving / Spearfishing this is also true. You might be afraid of the creatures and hazards of the deep Sharks, Giant Grouper, Monster Octopus, Moray Eels, Sea Snakes, Stone Fish, Fire Coral etc, etc - but the thing mostly likely to kill you - is you yourself. I am talking about Shallow - water Blackout SWB the single biggest cause of death of Freedivers / Spearfishermen. Have you ever come to the surface after a nice long practise dive, still feeling good, take your first breath, and then get the “ shakes “, black spots appearing before your eyes or battle to think/talk ? You have missed blacking out by the skin of your teeth and are lucky to be alive. If you were still under water even centimetres from the surface you would have blacked out without experiencing any of the above symptoms and probably drowned. SWB occurs fast, without warning and death is painless / mercifully peaceful. Why SHALLOW - water Blackout ? Even if you are an exceptionally good Freediver / Spearfisherman and can reach depths in excess of 20 m or 30 m or even deeper than 40 metres, most SWB’s occur within metres of the surface. So near and yet so far ! Why ? Terry Maas, world-class Freediver and Spearfisherman explains the effect by saying, “ Well, it’s here that your expanding, oxygen starved lungs literally suck the life giving air from your blood. Pressure changes in the Freediver’s decent / ascent cycle conspire to rob him of oxygen as he nears the surface by a mechanism I call the ‘vacuum effect’. The re-expanding lungs of the ascending diver increase in volume as the water pressure decreases, and this results in a rapid decrease of oxygen in the body to critical levels. The pressure that forced oxygen into the blood is now reversed. This vacuum effect is really a net flow of oxygen from the body to the lungs. It is most pronounced in the last three to 4,5 metres below the surface, where the greatest relative lung expansion occurs “. And then you drown. First your protective reflexes cause your vocal chords to close, preventing water entering your lungs. Death rushes closer and your protective response wanes, your lungs fill with water, and the delicate tissues swell dramatically. After six minutes without oxygen, your brain suffers permanent damage. Rescue and CPR now might revive you to a vegetative state. Rules to stay alive 1. Don’t practise or dive alone. A dive buddy that knows how to recognise SWB and how to respond if you do blackout must keep an eye on you at all times. 2. Don’t hyperventilate. Overbreathing on the surface huge breaths or fast puffing breaths can’t give you any more oxygen. You don’t use all the oxygen in your lungs anyway. Underwater, when your lungs cry out, it’s not because they need more 47

oxygen, but it’s because they want to get rid of the carbon dioxide CO2 buildup. Overbreathing on the surface reduces the level of residual CO2 in your body and with it the desire to breath when your bodies oxygen level becomes dangerously low. So as you can see, it is the CO2 level in your body that triggers the brain’s desire to breath and prevent oxygen starvation and blackout. Why then do people that know better, even top Freedivers / Spearfishermen still hyperventilate ? Because it leads to a state of euphoria and well-being, but this leads to overconfidence. It is a fact the more top Freedivers / Spearfishermen drown from hyperventilating than beginners. So make it a rule no more than 5 deep breaths before diving down. 3. Don’t get focused on one thing. Keep an open mind at all times. Know what is happening around you. Monitor your bodies needs. Have you noticed how you forget that you need air when you focus on waiting for that elusive fish to come in closer or when you are determined to swim the whole length of the pool underwater. Give it up - your life is worth more than the prize fish or beating your friends record ! Research has shown that most people who suffer from SWB are young and highly competitive. 4. Don’t only dive to a watch. Think about the amount of energy you are using - not just the length of time of your dive. Underwater exercise reduces your bottom time, even if you don’t notice it. That stubborn crayfish that you have got your hands on but just wont come out, so you work it and pull and wiggle and pull and pull ……. Or, that hotspot you saw just upstream, full of fish - you will just swim against the powerful current for a short while and you should get there ……. Fist Aid in the event of Shallow - water Blackout •

•

• • • • •

Watch out for the classic signs of blackout. A dive buddy surfacing will suddenly arch his body like a spasm and then just begin to drift back down. Even a surfaced diver with the shakes, blue lips or glazed eyes can just slip away. Shake them, slap them and ask them to talk sense to you. A sinking, unconscious diver must be brought to the surface drop their weights. If their jaw is clenched they will need to have the snorkel yanked from their mouth and forceful mouth-to-mouth administered to overcome the spasmed vocal chords. If you cannot get the snorkel out of their mouth try blowing through the snorkel. If you can get the victim to dry land or a boat, turn them on their side with their head lowered to allow the water to drain. Oxygen to the brain is most important. Whilst giving mouth-to-mouth, check for a pulse. If the person was unconscious for a short while they should begin breathing for themselves soon. If not begin with full CPR. Administer CPR no matter how long the person was underwater. Persevere; sometimes the person can lapse back into unconsciousness. Even when the person has been revived, they need to be admitted to hospital. The swollen lung tissue and secondary drowning is a risk.

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Silent Energy Chapter 5 In the fullness of summer we can feel the abundance of energy all around us, in the sky, sun, trees, rivers, and rain. We can feel life energy every time we breathe fresh air or are immersed in meditation. We have come to associate energy with the fresh, the natural, and the animate. We expect to gain energy through the food we eat or the exercise we do. This chapter will look at the universe of energy that surrounds us and will help us feel and use it, to give us more strength. In the rush to define energy through our own perception and language we have placed limits on its availability. We sometimes suffer from fatigue or weariness and often blame it on our lifestyle. We feel energised when we eat or when we are surrounded by nature, near a river. We feel happy and energised enjoying the company of a close friend. We gain much energy from doing these wonderful things, however we have come to believe that energy is rationed and can only be gained through particular daily routines. This is a fallacy!!! We live in an incredibly vast ocean of energy. Energy even exists within the keyboard we type or on the plate we use to eat on. Meditation replenishes much of the energy that we seem to lose in our daily pursuits. However, there are vast resources of energy that constantly surround us, which we tend to ignore. From an early age, we have trained our mind to focus on matter in general and objects in particular. We immediately recognise objects that we see in our daily lives. We know their color, we can describe their shape and even talk about them with our friends, without having to go through the lengthy process of describing how they work. Yet below this shape and color there is energy. Lots of it. Energy is far more difficult to describe and quantify and as a result our perception of it has become limited. For thousands of years Eastern Philosophy has regarded these objects as forms of energy. Western science has further confirmed this with the discovery of atoms and sub-atomic particles. Therefore if we were capable of receiving inputs of energy of all possible frequencies we would see ourselves amidst an infinite source of energy where the concepts of boundaries, scarcity and the fears associated with them would disappear. We would have no problem replenishing our energy or strength just by concentrating on any object that was near us. If our focus shifts from matter to energy our relationship with life changes dramatically. Through instinct our mind tells us we gain most of our energy from the food that we eat. The hectic pace of modern life ensures that we often feel drained of energy. This imbalance in the body upsets the harmony of the body and mind and causes distress and conflicts. By becoming aware we feel the abundance of energy that surrounds us 24 hours a day. We notice that energy flows freely from person to person or object to object. In fact there exists no boundaries or divisions of energy, making possession and control of energy meaningless. When we begin to appreciate the ebbs and flows of all this energy around us we no longer blame people or objects for taking our energy away.

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We have become aware of the debilitating affect of negative emotions on our strength and energy. Meditation, positive thought and action, are great ways of ensuring our harmony and well-being. However, becoming aware of and feeling this vast universe of energy that is around us ensures that we can expand our consciousness further. There are no particular ways of utilising this abundance of energy that surrounds us but becoming aware of it during our regular meditations will help us feel it. This is the first step to be able to tap into its resources. This particular life energy is extremely strong when we are in nature therefore we find by meditating in nature or spending time in nature we feel energised. When we meditate we experience this energy. It is a good time to appreciate it, and become aware of its presence all around us. Sit down, take a breath, and meditate for a few moments. Follow your breath. Imagine that with each breath, energy is coming into you, flowing through your body. Use your imagination. As you breathe in the life force energy reflect on the presence of "energy" around you. Breathe it in. Feel it. Experience it. Let energy flow through you. Imagine you can feel all that energy within you. Let it energise you and replace any feelings of fatigue and hopelessness. Just notice your responses. If you are used to feeling a lack of energy, you may feel frustrated as soon as you think about it. If this is so, it is important to focus on the abundance of energy. Let yourself breathe in the possibility that you can experience more energy.

Sharks As soon as they appear on the scene, cease activities and vacate the area. It's a good idea to keep an eye on the fish hanging from your float as these will often attract the attention of gamefish such as Yellowtail, Kingfish and King Mackerel. They are especially drawn to investigate members of their own kind, probably wondering why their compatriots have adopted an upright attitude in the water. Since objects at the surface are much more difficult to keep in sight than those at depth, where most of a spearfisherman's attention is focused. If you are using strung fish as an attractant, move your fish stringer from your float and attach it to a temporary loop tied about four metres down the floatline and swim holding a loop of line so your string is in sight whenever you look to your rear. This distance depends on the visibility at the time. When you encounter shoals of baitfish take note of their attitude. If they are spaced well apart with each individual seemingly following its own agenda, it is usually a sign that there are no predators about. However should they be bunched close together swimming and turning in unison this is a sign of agitation and game-fish can be expected to show at any moment.

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One of the first questions asked by beginners in the sport is "What about sharks?" The answer is that although they are not the bloodthirsty killers of folklore, they are a potential threat to anyone entering the sea and should be treated with caution at all times. The only people who do not worry about them are idiots and liars, take your pick. If you wish to be successful spearo you must accept the fact that on occasion you are going to meet up with them. Most will either ignore you completely or move off after giving you the once over, usually from the edge of visibility. Those that show more than a passing interest, can usually be scared off by a threatening attitude and a few shouts through your snorkel. Normally it will be the fish you have shot that is the attraction and not you personally. Sharks should never be underestimated and don't take it for granted that because those that you have met so far have all been easily frightened off and that all sharks can be measured by the same yardstick. How a shark behaves today is not necessarily how it will behave tomorrow or even in ten minutes time! Sharks that are swimming slowly with languid movements are seldom troublesome, but when they are moving fast with their pectoral fins pointing vertically downwards it is a sign that they are hunting and things can get ugly. It is not wise to shoot fish in the presence of sharks and most definitely not when they are acting in this manner. Exit the area without showing panic. By swimming side by side you reduce the area you have to watch. Move off with smooth steady fin strokes. Other points to remember when diving where sharks can be expected which is everywhere excluding bathtubs are don't dive alone and stay within visual distance of your dive buddy. Keep a 180 degree lookout, especially when surfacing. Keep a lookout when subduing speared fish. Don't Spearfish when the visibility is extremely poor. Never carry your fish on a stringer attached to your body and when you do shoot fish kill them immediately. The struggles of a dying fish are more likely to attract sharks than the small amount of blood you will spill by killing it by a vertical thrust with your knife the same distance back as the eyes are apart through the top of the head. When leaving an area where you are having shark trouble swim side by side with your buddy diver so that you only need to keep a lookout in one direction. One extremely 51

important area is to the rear, which, fortunately only requires you to incline your head until it touches your chest, not twisting your entire body as you would on land. Crayfish Rock Lobster is the most popular seafood on the coast, so much so that strict conservation has been enforced to protect this crustacean from commercialization. There are laws protecting undersized specimens and breeding stock. There is also a strict bag limit regarding the number that can be taken in one day and they may only be taken by hand. Some areas have been declared sanctuaries where the taking of rock lobster is prohibited. As these regulations vary in each area, one must familiarize with those applying to your dive area.

The gear required other than a mask, snorkel, fins and weight belt are a pair of strong gardening gloves and a bag in which to keep your catch, one with an elasticized top which ties around your waist is ideal. A couple of extra kilos of lead on your weight belt are advisable if you are working in water less than 3 metres. Rock lobster are present in all depths of water, from knee deep onwards. They prefer rocky areas where there is adequate cover in the form of caves, crevices and overhangs or heavy vegetation such as kelp. Probably the most productive areas are in 3 to 6 metres of water where their long antenna can be seen protruding from under rocky ledges but far more will be found by hunting along the bottom. When they are located try to approach their cave from the side so that you don't block out too much light and catch them from the front, trying for a grip on the head or at the base of the two main antennae. This is made easier by using your palm uppermost, so that your fingers can slip in underneath the head which affords a better grip. Should a rock lobster retreat into a position whereby you cannot find a grip of at least the base of the big antennae, then it is preferable to leave it as no good purpose is served by tugging at individual antennae or legs and injuring but not dislodging the crustacean. Rock lobster are often accompanied by moray eels so don't put your hand around corners where you can't see as eel bites are not very pleasant. When diving in rough water, be careful when surfacing as your mask may be knocked off by an unexpected wave.

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Spearfishing areas NORTHERN KWAZULU-NATAL Between the Tugela Mouth and Mozambique border is our most northerly stretch of water, the Zululand coast, the beginning of coral seas. Two hundred and twenty miles of wild and little explored coastline which is generally the cleanest and most productive water we have. Best known for its kingfish Caranx and Billfish such as black marlin and sailfish, the diver can expect to meet many fish unknown in the southern waters such as kaakap, mata hari, variable rock-cod, coral snapper, speckled snapper, chub and kingfish such as fulvoguttatus, ferdau and stellatus which will be foreign to most spearfishermen. A Zululand trip usually culminates in an intensive search through the reference book "Smith's Sea Fishes of Southern Africa" which no serious fisherman can afford to be without. Sharks are probably more prolific in this area than anywhere else on the South African coastline, therefore diving in anything but clean water i.e. over 8 metres visibility is not recommended. The first law of skin-diving - never dive alone - should be strictly adhered to. NATAL The Natal coast stretches from the Tugela River in the north to Port Edward in the south. It comprises of long stretches of sandy beaches broken intermittently by rock outcrops, usually at the points of long open bays or river-mouths. Normally this coast is pounded by quite heavy surf which builds up over vast expanse of unbroken ocean onto which it faces. These waves break in about I to 3 metres of water depending in their size and state of tide. Some of the best hunting to be had is on the reefs just beyond the surf-line as many fish use the foam and swirling sand as hideaways from enemies, but one must be continually on the lookout for the occasional extra large dumper which is always waiting for the unwary skindiver venturing to close to the surf-line.

As one swims out further, the depth increases gradually from 5 metres beyond the breakers to 10 metres a few hundred metres or so beyond and continuing to become deeper until 20 metre depths are reached about 500 to 600 metres offshore. During the rainy season which occurs during the summer months when the warm Mozambique current moves close inshore, Natal divers experience their best and worst visibility, from nil when the rivers are in spate to 30 metres when conditions are good. During winter there is little rain and water of 5 to 10 metres visibility can usually be found regularly. CRACKER REEF DURBAN BLUFF

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Situated in 5 to 8 metres of water, 150 metres off the Corporation Pump Station, half a mile south of the base of the South Pier on the bluff. The reef is 1 50 metres long running parallel to the beach. GREENPOINT 22 kms SOUTH OF DURBAN This reef lies 250 metres from the beach at the end of a rocky promontory bounded in the north by a bay of intermittent rocks and sand, and in the south by a steep walled rocky foreshore which makes a good entry point when a northerly current is flowing, but exit here is inadvisable, and should be made in the northern bay. PARK RYNIE 60 kms SOUTH OF DURBAN Starting at the old Whaling Station Bay there are three reefs in this area. Whale Shark Reef This is situated 400 metres out from Station Bay and the chain of reefs just beyond the surf 500 metres south and 250 metres out which starts with King Reef at the north and Shark Rocks in the South. PENNINGTON 64 kms SOUTH OF DURBAN The reef begins 300 metres north of the tidal swimming pool to Kelso, varying from 50 metres beyond the breakers to 600 metres offshore. IFAFA 80 kms SOUTH OF DURBAN Best of the inshore reefs in this area is 250 metres from the beach opposite the railway station. Access is through the bay on the north side. The reef is in 5 metres of water and comes to within a foot or so of the surface and is about 60 metres long. LIMESTONE AND VETCH'S PIER 64 Kms SOUTH OF DURBAN This area normally has its best visibility and is calmest during and after westerly winds. Vetch's Pier is a man-made reef which runs out to sea from the beach 500 metres north of the base on North Pier. It is protected by the North Pier from southerly swells and is an excellent area for beginners. Five hundred metres from the beach along Vetch's, Limestone Reef runs in a northerly direction for some 400 metres. The top of the reef is flat and lies about 4 metres below the surface but the inside edge drops steeply to the sand in 5 to 8 metres of water and is honeycombed with caves and gullies. SELECTION REEF 24 km’s NORTH OF DURBAN - the inside of this reef breaks surface 1 00 metres from the beach and runs parallel to the shore for 75 metres. Beyond this in 3 to 6 metres of water is a rock strewn area of gullies and holes varying in width from 8 metres at the south end to 35 metres at the north end. This is mainly a gamefish reef. PARADISE REEF 32 Kms NORTH OF DURBAN

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Situated 32 km north of Durban, rising into the surface 200 metres offshore. Consists of three reefs running parallel to the shore and separated only by sandy gullies, the depth to the sand varies from 5 to 8 metres. Snoek, yellowtail, kingfish, and garrick are the main gamefish shot. SALT ROCK REEF 45 km’s NORTH OF DURBAN Situated in 6 to 15 metres feet of water 200 metres north of the tidal pool which is 300 metres north of Salt Rock hotel. A rather flat reef broken here and there by sandy gullies where the odd reef fish are found. This reef comes into its own during summer when gamefish such as queenfish, king mackerel and kingfish are regularly shot. For reef fish one must continue out to sea where there is more reef in 15 to 20 metres of water. BORDER This stretch of coast is similar to the Transkei in that it is predominately rock bottom and shoreline. It is more influenced by the warm water of the Mozambique current flowing south so that even in winter the water is seldom below the sixties while during summer it sometimes goes well up to the seventies. It is because of these warmer temperatures that there are far more sub-tropical species present than in areas further to the south. Species such as White Musselcracker Sparadon durbanensis , Bank Steenbras, Rock-Cod, Galjoen, White-Steenbras, Spotted Grunter and Tasselfish Baardman . The most predominant gamefish are Yellowtail, Leervis Garrick and Shad. During the summer months Kingfish are occasionally speared. Unfortunately for skindivers there are many rivers in this area and during the summer months, which is the rainy season, good visibility is the exception rather than the rule. There are many excellent diving areas close to East London. One popular spot is off the beach-front Aquarium - a wreck, where it is often possible to shoot large White-Steenbras and other species including the odd Leervis. Other popular reefs areNAHOON REEF 5kms North of East London which provides good hunting for many species of reef and gamefish. THREE SISTERS AT BONZA BAY15km North of East London, it is about 5km offshore. This reef comprises of high rocks which break surface and then drop away steeply on all sides. This is a good area for all types of fish including Poenskop, Musselcracker and Yellowtail. QUEENSBURY BAYAbout 28km north of East London, is another good all-round area for game and reef fish. CONRAADS BANK, DEAD MANS GULLY & CINSTA These are situated just north of Queensbury Bay and provides good reef-fish hunting but are seldom as good as the previous three reefs for gamefish.

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TRANSKEI OR WILD COAST The Wild Coast provides hundreds of fine diving areas. Much of it is virgin territory as far as skin divers are concerned, but in summer dirty water is the big problem. Winter months provide the best diving conditions in this area EASTERN PROVINCE This area is too far from the Atlantic to be seriously affected by extremely cold water. During the summer months gamefish are abundant, most common being Yellowtail and Musseleracker. These are the same species that are encountered in False Say and in the Eastern Province the average size is much bigger. Fish over 8kgs are not considered large and numbers of much heavier fish are taken every year and White Musselcracker Sparadon durbanensis seem to grow to a larger size on this stretch of coast than anywhere else. The Eastern Province has some very big Red Steenbras, Leervis, Katonkel and reef fish such as Baardman, Cob, Bank-Steenbras, White-Steenbras etc. At Port Elizabeth some of the best diving spots are well of-shore and are accessible only by ski-boat, which launch mainly from Noordhoek. Conditions are usually at their best during light south easterly winds. In both these areas a light south-east wind is best as this usually brings clean, warm water and gamefish. The best yellowtail months are from November to May and white Musselcracker, White -Steenbras and Cob from October to January. WESTERN PROVINCE The best spearfishing area for Cape based divers is between Gansbaai and Mossel Bay. During summer when the influence of warm Agulhas Current is at it's peak, Struis Bay becomes the happy hunting ground as shoals of Yellowtail move into the area and divers take advantage of the warm water and the good visibility to make fine hauls of these fish and other species, especially Red Stumpnose which are sometimes abundant in this area. Gouritzmond and Mossel Bay are the favourite haunt of Mussel cracker (Brusher in Natal) and at times shoals of these fish can be encountered feeding in shallows. During the same period the area around Arniston and Skipskop the Yellowtail are not as abundant as they are at Struisbaai but make up for it in size. Divers intent on shooting a trophy size fish need look no further. The Infanta and Witsand areas produce some very nice Cob and Garrick. As the De Hoop Nature Reserve starts only a few kilometres to the west the good diving area is rather restricted but with patience and a measure of luck some good catches of these species can be made. Stilbaai is an area where many spearfishing competitions are held. With reasonable weather, conditions there are normally good especially after a light southwesterly wind which will push clean water into the area.

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Portugese-man o' war or bluebottles are always a threat to divers, especially after a few days of onshore winds. The stinging cells of coelenterates inject powerful toxins into their victims which in all cases causes pain welts and in extreme cases where the victims body is not protected by neoprene excessive stings can cause paralysis and even death. Many divers who swim in areas where these creatures are common wear extra protection such as a band of lycra or similar material about 6cm wide which is worn across the mouth where a hole is just big enough to fit tightly around the snorkel mouth piece. It should be worn under the neoprene hood and will protect that part of the face which is exposed below the mask. When the Man 'o War has struck, and the long blue tails are felt entwining around and exposed body parts it is better to use a knife blade to scrape them off as the stinging cell,, are like tiny hypodermics, the point embedded in your skin and the sac of poison pumping away on the outside. To try to rub them off only forces more of the poison into your flesh. Scraping with the knife-blade severs the poison sacs off at skin level The pain from coelentrate stings can last for hours. Fortunately there is an almost magical relief for victims that is readily available at supermarkets - meat tenderiser - which contains protein digesting enzymes which destroy the coelentrate venom which is protein based. Slightly moisten the tenderiser and rub it on the affected parts and within 1 - 2 minutes the weals, redness and pain disappears.

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This is a large group of fish which range from the common brown rock cod averaging 2kgs in weight to the giant brindle bass which weigh up to 180kgs or more. However, the powers that be have seen fit to ban the shooting of brindle and potato bass in KwaZulu Natal waters. Principally fishes of warm water, they are caught in all but our coldest waters, the bigger varieties being concentrated north of the Cape - KwaZulu Natal border, in all depths of water provided there are rocks. Rock cod are resident reef dwellers, never venturing far from the safety of their chosen retreat among the rocks, this usually being a cave or tunnel on the edge of the reef where the sand meets the rocks. They are fierce predators feeding off crayfish and any other fish that will fit into their mouths. Often, other species of fish that have been speared are attacked by cod. I have seen one of 3kgs trying to eat a speared bronze beam a kilo or so heavier. Some of these aggressive types are quite easy to shoot especially when they feel secure in the entrance of their lair. Others such as the yellow-belly and the potato bass can drive a spearfisherman around the bend playing hide-and-seek among the reefs that you would swear wouldn't hide a goldfish. Beware of the dorsal and anal fins as well as the gill-rakers which are very sharp. When shooting these fish, especially the large specimens, make sure your spear is going to hit a vital spot where it is going to hold well. If not possible, then it is better not to shoot as you will generally lose the fish anyway since playing the fish carefully is out of the question as they head for the rocks if given any line. Curiosity is the yellowtail's downfall as they will normally circle a diver who hovers at their level and has the breath to wait until they are in range. Usually the larger the shoal, the bolder the fish and therefore easier to shoot. Once speared they will put a stubborn fight if not incapacitated by a spine or head shot. A steel leader from spear to gun is a great advantage as these fish will invariably head for the bottom where the line is often snagged on the reef which can result in the loss of spear and fish if steel cable is not used. GOOD EATING.

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Weighing from 3 kgs in southern waters and 10 kgs further north in the Plettenberg Bay Port Elizabeth areas. They are the premier gamefish of Cape spearfishermen and are abundant during summer and autumn months when warm, clear water is close in-shore. The Natal season being from June to November. When hunting yellowtail, Cape spearfishermen operate from small boats or paddleskis. The shoals are located by watching for terns, small sea-birds which cannot dive under-water but catch sprats and other small fish when they are driven to the surface by the feeding yellowtail. Curiosity is the yellowtail's downfall as they will normally circle a diver who hovers at their level and has the breath to wait until they are in range. Usually the larger the shoal, the bolder the fish and therefore easier to shoot. Once speared they will put a stubborn fight if not incapacitated by a spine or head shot. A steel leader from spear to gun is a great advantage as these fish will invariably head for the bottom where the line is often snagged on the reef which can result in the loss of spear and fish if steel cable is not used. GOOD EATING.

This species is not related to the tropical parrotfish; it is a fish of cooler water and is present along the entire length of the South African coast and weighs up to 5kgs. They feed in groups of up to eight or ten fish, seldom staying in one area for long. They have firm white flesh and a tough leather-like skin covered by small scales. This fish was

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considered rare on our coast until the advent of skin-diving when they were encountered by divers on reefs in all depths of water. Normally the easiest of fish to shoot, they have the curiosity of a cat, sometimes approaching to within a few metres of a diver, then again there is the occasional fish which beats a hasty retreat the moment it sights you, probably having witnessed the fate of other members of its tribe. Beware of this fishes' beak when handling it in the water as they can give the unwary hand a nasty nip. FAIR EATING, BEST WHEN SKINNED.

Normally inhabits the deep reefs where there are plenty of eaves in which to hide and crayfish and shellfish on which to feed. They are often found among large shoals of hottentot and bronze bream off the Natal coast, probably due to the fact that both species favour similar water conditions and environment. They are not easy to approach unless one follows until it enters a cave, often so small that the fish must shuffle in on its side, or if taken by surprise by a diver who is on the bottom as the fish comes round a rock or out of a gully in the reef. This is one of the wariest fish and its body is encased in heavy scales to that the spearhead that is not sharp or is fired from too long a range seldom penetrates deep enough to hold its tough and cunning adversary. Their habitat stretches from the Cape to Natal and weighs from 3 to 30kgs.

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This beautiful bream is a migratory fish averaging 1 to 4 kgs. They are present throughout the year from Zululand to the East London area. They prefer the sandy shallows among the foam where they feed on crustacea and shellfish. Occurring in shoals or singly they are seldom seen in water over 15 metres deep. Sly and wary, the element of surprise must be with the diver though they will occasionally come to investigate if you suddenly disappear from view behind a boulder or a cloud of swirling sand. EXCELLENT EATING.

Common on most of the Cape coast, especially the southern region about False Say, they are a reef fish of all depths of water, usually found near caves or in gullies. Anything over 2.5kgs can be considered large, the average fish shot is 1 to 2kgs. They feed on crustaceans, marine animals such as sea cat and other fish, in fact anything that will fit down their throats. They often move within range when a diver stands or lies still on the bottom, otherwise they must be taken by stalking behind cover or cave-hunting. Usually those which are encountered in kelp or shallow areas are smaller than those which are found in the deeper waters. EXCELLENT EATING.

Two distinct species of this fish exist in our waters. The larger, cold water fish whose habitat ranges from Cape Point to East London and can weigh up to 12kgs or more, is 61

rather dull coloured fish being more or less a uniform grey in colour. This makes it easy to distinguish from the fish common on the Natal and Zululand coast which is beautiful pink from head to tail and is seldom taken over 3kgs in weight. Both are fish of deeper reefs and are seldom encountered in water less than 12 metres. They are not diff icult to approach if a diver makes the most available cover as they swim in shoals in the sandy gullies and ledges feeding among the marine growth

Sizes vary from 3 to 20 kgs found from Cape Point to north Zululand, though in the Cape they are seldom shot by spearfishermen probably due to the fact that Cape divers generally avoid areas of heavy surf, conditions which these fish favour when in shallow water as they use the churning sand-clouds to hide from enemies such as dolphin and shark as well for stalking shoals of shad and strepie on which they feed. In areas where there is no surf they stick to deeper water during the day unless the water is dirty. They are a summer fish in southern waters and although caught throughout the year in Natal they are more numerous during winter and spring. Cob are shy fish when encountered in open water. Sometimes they swim slowly in a defensive circle so that no predator can approach without detection. The best method of approach is the use of cover, but if this is impossible go to the bottom and make an indirect approach making as if to bypass the fish. In water over 8 metres deep it is sometimes possible to swim until directly above the fish and then make a vertical attack. If this method is used an ultra-silent dive is of the utmost importance. Salmon often take refuge in large caves during the day and then are quite simple to shoot. The best area for the shot is the head or the slight hump behind the head. Beware of the gill rakers when stringing your fish as they are extremely sharp. FAIR EATING.

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Averaging 3 to 5 kgs they are small cousin to king mackerel. They travel in shoals, seldom in water more than 10 metres and are most frequently encountered just beyond the surf-line where they feed on small shoal-fish of the sardine or sprat family. Present throughout the year they spend the colder months in north Natal and Zululand and extend to the Transkei during autumn when the water is warm. They are seldom curious enough to approach a diver and best method of attack is to get ahead and below the fish and edge close without swimming directly at them. The flesh is soft and unless the fish is hit in the head or the spine, it takes careful handling to prevent the spear from tearing out. EXCELLENT EATING.

These fish can weigh up to 35 kgs or more, though the average size is about 9 kgs. This giant of the mackerel family is a warm water fish and can be found in the waters of Maputo year round but penetrating as far south as the southern Transkei during the late summer months. They travel in shoals of up to 60 or more strong usually made up of fish from 5 to 8kgs in weight, but the larger fish of 16kgs or more move in much smaller groups of 5 or 10 fish and the really big ones are usually found singly or in pairs. They are a coastal species seldom found more than 10 kilometres off shore and the larger specimens are often found just beyond the surf especially during high spring tides. King mackerel respond well to flashers and are also drawn to members of their own species hanging from a float. They will often show curiosity when they see a diver in mid-water and should they lose interest before coming within shooting range then a tail chase as described in Hunting Techniques will usually present a spearo with a shot. Their flesh is firm but their bone structure is not to strong. Many are lost by divers applying too much pressure during the initial run which can often be quite phenomenal. Their teeth are razor sharp and although they do not use them in defence, be careful when stringing your fish. They make excellent eating.

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A resident reef dweller weighing from 1 to 5 kgs. They are represented in the Cape by the baardman. These fish are related to the cob and like them prefer sandy gullies and caves on the end of the reefs. When over the sand they are a silvery white and can within seconds turn dark brown or black to blend in with the caves into which they retreat when disturbed. The best approach is from behind cover or from directly above. They have hard scales and soft flesh so don't take pot shots otherwise you will lose the fish. EXCELLENT EATING.

DIET AND NUTRITION FOR FREEDIVING AND SPEARFISHING "Nutrition could never create a champion but a potential champion can be withheld from peak performance through insufficient or unbalanced intake". In the underwater environment where weather and water temperatures can expose a spearo to severe hypothermia and fatigue, your life may depend upon your body condition and available replenishment. The ideal body fat for underwater sport is probably between 8 and 12% for males and 10 to 12% for females. Excess fat creates extra buoyancy and thus increase the effort of free

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diving. Too low body fat % and enhanced metabolic rate can make you more prone to hypothermia. Some Physiology Your body utilises all three major fuel sources in varying quantities, according to the intensity of exercise. • • •

95% of VO2 Max – Creatine Phosphate + Carbohydrates are burnt. 75% of VO2 Max – Muscle and Liver Glycogen are burnt. 50 – 60% VO2 Max – Free fatty acids are burnt Free divers.

In free diving the aim is to keep the heart rate and exercise intensity very low to lengthen bottom time. Endurance is important and thus keeping your muscle glycogen stores replenished and with regular intake of fat. Plan stages of training and change your body into an efficient machine by adding relevant nutrition. Phase 1 Foundation training Basic fitness is done and changes your body composition by taking in • • • •

Protein 12-15% Complex Carbohydrates 40-45% Simple Carbohydrates 10% Fats <30%

Protein can come from animal and veggie sources but include some red meat for iron sources. Reduce fat. Complex Carbohydrate foods include fresh fruits, breads, cereals, grains and vegetables. Simple carbohydrates are in sugar-based foods, drinks and sweets. Carbohydrates are transported to your energy factory, the liver, and converted to glucose. This is stored as glycogen for use during exercise. Intake per day should be 4g/kg/day. Roughly 5-7 portions of carbohydrates per day. Phase 2 Anabolic phase Food is used as fuel and to build structures. The intake of vitamins and mineral is thus important. Breakfast and snacks are very important and a balanced sport shake may help. •

Protein needs

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• • •

Endurance 1,5g/kg/day Strength Athletes 1,7-2g/kg/day Bodybuilders 3-4g/kg/day

Carbohydrate • •

Average 4g/kg/day Intense training 7-10g/kg/day

Your carbohydrates are best absorbed immediately after training. Glucose and sucrose are faster in the replenishment of muscle glycogen than fructose but if you battle with low blood glucose fructose can help. Lunch • • • •

2 chicken meat sandwiches 2 glass fruit juice 2 pieces fruit 1 muffin

Dinner • • • • • •

2 cups spaghetti or rice 1 cup savoury tomato topping with grated cheese 2 tablespoons parmesan or 4 tablespoons low fat cheese 2 slices bread or 4 French bread 1-2 cups fresh fruit salad or rice pudding 1/2 cup yoghurt or ice cream

Snacks • • • •

2 fruit 1/2 cup raisins 3 biscuits 1 glass fruit juice

The night before Be very careful of food choices provided at pasta parties. Often food is served with rich creamy sauces or swimming in oil. Choose baked instead of roast or fried chips, light spaghetti sauces, but take care with macaroni cheese and pizza which are often covered with cheese. Choose lean meats, such as chicken no skin, or fish no batter and vegetables. Potatoes, pumpkin, kumera, peas, broad beans and parsnips are fine, Drink plenty of fluids.

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For nervous stomachs the night before a tournament, use a carbohydrate supplement drink. 2-3 slices of low fat pizza with salad oil or vinegar dressing or 2 cups spaghetti with tomato topping and 3 slices bread or 1 cup chicken with three baked potatoes, peas, and kumera or 2 cups of rice with 1/2 cup grilled diced meat or lean mince. Add salad and other vegetables especially green leaf vegetables. Add fruit, fruit salad, biscuit and yoghurt as required and drink sufficient fluids. During the dive Have breakfast: at least 2 portions of carbohydrates and 1 portion of protein. Keep replenishment fluid 500 ml/hour in the boat such as diluted liqui-fruit or commercial sports drink. Carbohydrates must be replenished every 2 hours through a day. Sports drinks or sweets wine gums kept on board. Slow fructose tablets can be very handy as well as energy bars. Fatty foods such as cheese squares and chocolate are necessary when spending more than 4 hours in the water. Protein during the day - you can snack on meat or biltong to ensure steady blood glucose levels 1g/kg/day. Tips - low fibre food - not cold nor hot - no ‘spoilable’ food - more high fat food in low temperature water - keep food low in volume - Remember the recovery meal after competition to reduce fatigue and replenish muscle glycogen. High Impact Exercise Routine Freediving and Spearfishing makes use of anaerobic exercise where the cardio vascular system needs to become hyper efficient. Numerous forms of cross training jogging, cycling, swimming, squash, gym, aerobics routines are all excellent for building up cardio vascular and all round muscular strength and fitness. Power routines using a technique known as skip breathing or breathing only every third cycle that you need to breathe will quickly adapt your body to operating efficiently under anaerobic oxygen depleted conditions. A more radical approach is to do power exercises like sprinting 50m uphill whilst completely holding your breath. If you follow this routine in a dangerous environment swimming pool, busy road – ensure that you have someone watching you, as there is the ever present danger of passing out due to lack of oxygen.

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However, the best form of spearfishing and freediving training is to get in the water and actually experience or simulate the ideal diving conditions.

References The Encyclopedia of Recreational Diving - Alex Brylske et al Blue Water Hunting - Terry Maas Guide to common sea fishes - Rudy vd Elst The Deep Blue - Len Turner Winter training programme for spearfishermen - Len Turner Psychological and Physiological effects of freediving - Dr Andy Foot Rolling Thunder – John Smith SA Small Craft Boatmanship – Kobus Esterhuysen Guide to Spearfishing – Len Jones Canned encounter with a Great White Shark Guide to Nutrition – Dr Philda de Jager Spearfishing Restricted Lists – Anthony Dunne

Annexure Restricted List

Future size and mass limits

Bronze Bream 5 to 2 -30cm Yellow Belly rockcod 5 to 1 - 60cm Brusher 5-1 - 60cm Cat Face rockcod - 55cm Geelbek 10 to 2 - 60cm

Red Stumpnose 5 to 1 - 30cm Roman 5 to 2 - 30cm Scotsman 5 to 1 - 40cm Englishman 5 to 1 - 40cm Poenskop 2 to 1 - 50cm 68

Dageraad 5 to 1 - 40cm Red Steenbras 2 to 1 - 60cm West coast Steenbras 5 to 1 - 60cm

Galjoen 5 to 2 - 35cm Santer 10 to 5 - 30cm

Size and mass limits Bellman 40cm Big eye tuna 3.2kg Blacktail 20cm Bluefin tuna 6.4kg Bronze bream 30cm Cape stumpnose 20cm Cape snoek 60cm Carpenter 25cm Dageraad 30cm Galjoen 35cm Garrick 70cm Glassy 2.5cm Geelbek 60cm Hottentot 22cm Kob 40cm Natal stumpnose 25cm Pinky 7.5cm Poenskop 50cm Red steenbras 40cm Red stumpnose 30cm

Santer 30cm Scotsman 30cm Seventy-four 40cm Shad 30cm Slinger 25cm Spotted grunter 40cm Spotted rock cod catface 40cm Squaretail kob 35cm Strepiekaranteen 15cm Swordfish 25kg White-edged rock cod 40cm White musselcracker 60cm White steenbras 60cm West coast steenbras 40cm White stumpnose 25cm Yellow-belly rock cod 40cm Yellowfin tuna 3.2kg Zebra 30cm River bream 25cm River snapper 40cm Roman 30cm

Closed seasons ¾ Shad - from 1 September to 30 November in any year, both dates inclusive. ¾ Galjoen -from 15 October of one year to the last day of February in the following year, both dates inclusive. ¾ Pelagic fish -from 1 November of one year to 14 January in the following year, both dates inclusive. ¾ Mollusc -the holder of a recreational or subsistence permit- from14 April to 15 December in any year, both dates inclusive. ¾ West coast rock lobster the holder of a recreational or subsistence permitfrom 1 may to 15 November in any year, both dates inclusive. ¾ East Coast rock lobster - from 1 November of one year to the last day of February of the following year, both dates inclusive.

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Specially protected list Brindle bass Natal wrasse Potato bass

Great white shark Sawfishes Seventy-four

Critical list 2 in total Poenskop black steenbras or musselcracker

Red steenbras copper steenbras

Exploitable list 10 in total to be taken Blueskin trawl soldier Cape gurnard cape sea robin Cape snoek Cape yellowtail Carpenter silverfish Dorado dolphinfish Geelbek cape salmon Hottentot White stumpnose

Javelin grunter King mackerel couta Panga Queen mackerel natal snoek Red tjor-tjor sand soldier Santer soldier Snapper salmon Squaretail kob Tunas tunny

Non-saleable recreational list 10 in total not more than 5 of 1 species Baardmans tasselfish Banded galjoen Billfishes marlin,sailfish Blacktail dassie Bronze bream Cape knifejaw / Cuckoo Bass Cape stumpnose Galjoen Garrick leervis John brown Swordfish White musselcracker brusher,cracker White steenbras pignose grunter

Kingfishes excluding the bludger Large-spot pompano wave garrick Leopard cat shark Natal knifejaw / Bumphead Natal stumpnose yellowfin bream River bream perch River snapper rock salmon Southern pompano Springer ten pounder Spotted grunter tiger Spotted gulley shark Stonebream Striped cat shark

Restricted list 5 in total from this list Bludger kingfish Blue hottentot copper bream Dageraad Dane Shad elf

Red Stumpnose miss lucy Rock cods groupers Roman Scotsman Slinger

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Englishman Hake stockfish Kob salmon,squaretail,daga

West Coast Steenbras Zebra wildeperd

Unlisted Species Bank Steenbras Natal Fingerfin Barbel Cave Bass Chub False Englishman Flathead / Sandfish Gaterin Germans Goat fish Indian / Threadfin mirror / Ciliaris / Alectis Kaakap / Jobfish Lemonfish Wrasse Wahoo

Mata Hari / Blue emperor Parrot fish Prodigal son Protea Bream Queenfish Rainbow runner Rubber lip Sangora / Tropical Yellowtail Sea pike Sloopnose Snappers Spade fish Surgeon Tripletail

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