Size Does Matter - Need for Size India - National Body Sizing Survey of Indian

‘Size’ does matter Need for “Size India” – National Body Sizing Survey of Indian By Prof (Dr.) Noopur Anand National Institute of Fashion Technology

Ministry of Textile. Govt of India

What are national sizing surveys? A national sizing survey is an exercise where anthropometric data is collected from a statistically justified sample to create a database of measurements which is a true representation of the entire population of the nation/region. The database of thus collected measurements is represented, analyzed and published for research, commercial and industrial use. This anthropometric data is normally used in clothing design, industrial design, ergonomics and architecture where this statistical data about the distribution of body dimensions in the population is used to optimize products. 1

Who gains from the National Sizing Survey? The survey benefits consumers, manufacturers and retailers. For consumers the advantage is of getting products which are designed to suit their body shape and size. For manufacturers and retails this data would allow them to design and stock products suited to the physical dimensions of the target market segments and there by achieve better business results. Advantage to Apparel industry ‐ Better understanding of body, leading to improved fit of garments ‐ Optimized efficiency of size charts ‐ Increased percentage of target customers that would fit into the available sizes. ‐ Increased sales. ‐ Improved customer satisfaction Advantage to Other sectors2 ‐ Security forces: Apart from well fitting military uniforms the information can assist in designing ergonomically suitable appliances and gadgets and applications for security personnel ‐ Medicine: Anthropometric information can be used to improve products and procedures for medical areas including prosthetics, forensics, cosmetics and fitness ‐ Automotive & aerospace industries: Greater efficacy through improved design of helmets, dummies for crash analysis, seating geometry, ergonomic personal equipment, face masks, protective clothing and life support systems, work space etc. ‐ Furniture and work place design: Anthropometric information can be applied to design work place to ensure improved workplace ergonomics & labor safety. ‐ Industrial equipment: the information can assist in designing ergonomically suitable appliances, machines, shop floors etc. ‐ Others: The application of new size charts will also be of relevance to art and sculpture, animation, computer games etc.

International scenario of Anthropometric & Sizing Survey

1 www.techexchange.com

Collaborative national sizing surveys have been taken up by governments including the UK, USA, China, Sweden, France, Mexico etc. and have been approached in consortium mode with their technology industry, apparel (retail) industry and academia. General features of National Sizing Surveys:  It is a collaborative effort by governments, technology companies, academic institutions and apparel industry  3D body scanners have been used to undertake the survey  The volunteers were scanned in standing and / or sitting postures in scanning suits  Volunteers were recruited through publicity in the national media, via retailer promotion (e.g. mails shots, in‐store leaflets etc.), and via the web site. Volunteers were asked to provide information on age, gender, ethnicity, perceived size, choice of measuring location and contact details. Subjects were then selected using quota sampling to meet the national statistics of age, ethnic origin, socio economic group and geo‐demographics.  Each subject was asked to complete an extensive market research questionnaire, which captured information on personal details, clothing issues, shopping habits and preferences, lifestyle habits including health & fitness, occupation and employment and ethnicity.  The retailers were responsible for recruiting subjects to be measured, with subjects being encouraged to register online. In some cases the principal clothing colleges manage the data collection process and this is seen as an educational opportunity. Collaborative efforts in generating anthropometric data among different countries: Countries undertake collaborative anthropometric surveys for large scale benefit. Some examples are:  The CAESAR study (Civilian American and European Surface Anthropometry Resource) is a survey of body measurements for civilian population conducted in three NATO countries: USA, The Netherlands, and Italy. It was a collaborative effort that included partners from more than 35 companies (e.g. Levi's, General Motors, Ford, and Boeing etc.), several government agencies, and representatives from 6 countries.3  World Engineering Anthropometry Resource (WEAR) is a collaborative effort in creating a world wide resource of anthropometric data for a wide variety of engineering applications. The objective is to identify and develop data models, analytic and software tools, theoretical constructs and principles that support the development of an on‐line world‐wide information system for utilizing the latest anthropometry databases in engineering environments. 4  The World Health Organization (WHO) convened an Expert Committee to re‐evaluate the use of anthropometry at different ages for assessing health, nutrition, and social well‐being. The Expert Committee’s report, developed in consultation with more than 100 experts worldwide, provides scientists, clinicians, and public health professionals with an authoritative review, reference data, and recommendations for the use and interpretation of anthropometry throughout the life cycle.5


Summary of National Sizing Surveys of some countries is underneath Country UK

UK

Project

Size UK

Shape GB ‐ The National Childrens wear Survey

Size USA

Year

2002

2011

Age

16‐90

Sample Size

11000 female and male

Scanner TC2

USA

Australia

France

Mexico

Thailand

China Design Smart Initiative ‐ 3D data base for head &face shapes

USA

Sizing Survey

Sizing Survey

A Sizing Study of the Populatio n of Mexico

Thailand's National Anthropom etrics Database

CAESAR ‐Civil American and European Surface Anthropometry Resource Project

Swedish anthropometr ics for product and workplace design

sizing survey

2003

2004

2005

started in 2010

2006

2006

2006

2000

2000

2002

2007

4 ‐17

18‐70

5‐70

18‐65

16‐90

4 ‐ 17

18‐65

18‐65

18‐65

18‐65

2500 Boys and girls


1330 female and 135 male=14 65


16,000

13,442

20,000

2,500



800 female and male

367 subjects, 105 males and 262 females

TC2

TC2

TC2 & laser ‐ Cyberwar e and Vitronic

Vitrus Smart Human solutions

TC2

TC2

Human Solution

Cyberware

Cyber ware WB4

Vitrus Pro

Vitrus Smart Human solutions

Body Excluding Hand Feet And Head

3d Head‐ And‐Face Scanner

Full Body

Full Body

Full Body

Full Body

standing and sitting

face 7 head





60+ automatic & 40+ manual= more than 100

82 automatic +40 manual=124

60 automatic +40 manual= 100

43

Scan Data




Full Body

Currently In Progress

Stances



standing sitting


currently in progress

54

55 automatic + 10 manual=65

currently in progress

130 Measure automati ment c + 10 Points manual= Total 140

200

and

140

China

(Multiple source complied by the author) 6


Netherland

Italy

Sweden

Why does India need National Sizing Survey? There is no denying the fact that the sizes being offered in retail establishments in India are not addressing consumer needs. The relevant sizes are not available at all and hence consumers do not find the size that fits them. They are forced to have alterations done, get custom made clothes or simply wear ill fitting clothes. Also, the sizes which are available create confusion in the minds of the consumers because of the inconsistencies in the sizing systems between the brand and sometimes within the brands as well. These issues are primarily the result of the following: ‐ Selection of size charts of other countries ‐Due to the lack of Indian sizing surveys retailers / manufacturers are forced to use the size charts of other countries i.e. US and /or UK where the anthropometric make of the population is very different from that of India. This results in manufacturing of a product which might not fit the Indian body types. Inevitably, consumers are often not able to find the size that fits and are forced to have alterations done or simply wear ill fitting clothes. ‐ Adaptation of size charts from other countries: In most of the cases these size charts from other countries are ‘tweaked’ based on the manufacturers ‘instinct’ and ‘experience’ to address the Indian builds. Each brand has its own understanding / sensibilities regarding Indian build and hence its own sizing label which might be very different from that of the other brand. This variation in sizing systems between brands and sometimes within the brand leads to confusion in the minds of consumers. They are forced to try many garments of different sizes before the final purchase can be made. These size development strategies result in ‘dissatisfied’ consumers and loss of sales. This problem is not fully captured in the key business indicators. A key indicator for business performance for a company and merchandise planning is the company’s sales data. Companies use sales data to get feedback on what sizes are selling and in what proportions – but sales data never captures lost sales on account of improper sizing and retailers and manufactures miss out on considerable sales volume as a result. So it can be said that lack of accurate anthropometric data and resulting Indian size chart is leading to industry inefficiency in providing good fitting garments, lost business opportunity, and consumer frustration.

To validate the above a small study was undertaken, wherein seven women’s wear brands from organized retail were surveyed for bust measurements in women’s tops in comparable styles. The data from the same is in the Table 1. Table 2 shows the deviation each brand has from the mean value of a particular size set. The table 1 & 2 highlights the disparity in measurement among various brands and it can be seen that the disparities are huge.

BRANDWISE MEASUREMENTS (IN CM) Table 1 Bust measurements A. B. C.

S 76 80 84

M 80 85 89

L 85 90 94

XL 91 95 102


XXL STD DEVIATION

D. E. F. G.

85 87 92 100 86.29

MEAN

89 93 98 103 92 97 102 96 104 112 106 111 117 122 91.00 96.29 102.43 112.50

10.94

BRANDWISE DEVIATION FROM MEAN (IN CM) Table 2 Bust measurements S M L XL XXL A. ‐10.29 ‐11.00 ‐11.29 ‐11.43 B. ‐6.29 ‐6.00 ‐6.29 ‐7.43 C. ‐2.29 ‐2.00 ‐2.29 ‐0.43 D. ‐1.29 ‐2.00 ‐3.29 ‐4.43 ‐9.50 E. 0.71 1.00 0.71 ‐0.43 F. 5.71 5.00 7.71 9.57 G. 13.71 15.00 14.71 14.57 9.50 MEAN 86.29 91.00 96.29 102.43 112.50

Efforts so far ‐ History of Anthropometric data collection in India

Several attempts have been made at different levels to collect and standardize the anthropometric data in India over the last few decades, but none of these is either comprehensive nor were targeted to resolve the challenges faced by the apparel industry. In earlier attempts the approach was to classify on the basis of racial typologies. A few examples of these attempts are 7  Risley (1891) ‐ took measurements from Bengal and other provinces of Northern India. His observations were formulated in Census of India 1901 (1903) and he has classified the people of India into the following types: Turko‐Iranian; Indo‐Aryan; Scytho Dravidian; Aryo‐Dravidian; Mongolo–Dravidian; Mongoloid; and Negrito of the Andaman Islands  Eikckstedt (1934) ‐ analyzed Sikh, Punjabi and Musalman and the other communities (1920‐1923). According to Eikckstedt the Indian categories were as follows: Indid; Grace‐ Indid; North‐ Indid; Indo‐Brachid; Veddoid; Gondi; Malid; Southmelanid; Nothmelanid; Nordid; Dinarid; Alpine; Mediterranean; Palaemongoloid; and Orientalid  B.S. Guha (1935) ‐ this study was based on 2511 subjects and is one of the most significant studies done. He classified people of India into six main races with nine subtypes: Negrito; Proto‐Australoid; Mongoloid; Mediterranean; Western Brachycephals ; and Nordic In a later phase the approach was shifted to an inter‐regional frame work. Under this approach a few significant regional studies were conducted in Maharashtra, Gujarat, UP and Bengal6:  Mahalanobis, Majumdar and Rao ‐ 1949 for Uttar Pradesh  Majumdar and Sen ‐ 1949 for Gujarat  Karve and Dandekar‐ 1951 for Maharashtra


 Majumdar and Rao‐ 1960 for Bengal  Malhotra, Balakrishnan, and Karve‐ 1981 for Tamilnadu But the sample size and coverage of population groups, considering the population strength and biological variation in Indian populations were inadequate. Anthropological Survey of India has undertaken three large‐scale anthropometric surveys: 6  The All India Anthropometric Survey: South Zone (1962‐1963) 61 districts from four states, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu were covered; 14000 adults male individuals belonging to 109 different castes, communities and tribes were surveyed to create generalized anthropo‐morphometric features of each state.  The All India Anthropometric Survey: North Zone (1963‐1969) 172 districts from twelve states of North, Central, Eastern and Western India. Assam, Bihar, Orissa, Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir, Rajasthan were covered. 47000 adult males and 198 population groups were surveyed for generalized anthropo‐morphometric features of each state  People of India 1985. 421 districts from 1011 towns ,3581 villages of the State and Union Territories of India were covered; 25000 people were surveyed for creating an anthropological profile of all the communities of India . However, the measurements taken during the above anthropological studies were quite different from those required for the purpose of developing size charts for the garment industry and hence were not really helpful. Some anthropometric surveys have been undertaken by the academic campuses, retailers or ergonomist to collect data for the purpose of pattern development, garment manufacturing or workplace design respectively, but either the data collected is from a small and hence insignificant sample size or proper statistical analysis was not done or the results were not shared in the public domain. 8 So it may be concluded that there exists no record of a systematic all India anthropometric survey ever conducted. Need of the hour‐National sizing survey “Size India” With a growing retail sector, movement of production towards mass customization and increasingly aware and demanding customers, the need of the hour is to have an Indian Body Size chart and the precondition to develop this chart is to carry out a nationwide comprehensive body sizing survey. The thought process and efforts have been made to undertake the “Size India” initiative. However due to some of the key challenges which an exercise of this scale would definitely encounter; these attempts have fizzled out at the drawing board stage itself. A concerted effort is required to overcome these challenges; some of the key challenges which are proving to be the biggest roadblock are outlined below.


Challenges for “Size India” The challenges for ‘Size India’ are: 1‐ The project cannot succeed unless the academia, apparel industry (retailers/ manufacturers) and government collaborate. The challenge is formalizing and operationalizing this collaboration 2‐ Creating awareness among the masses, making ‘Size India’ a national campaign. 3‐ Identification and procurement of 3D scanning technology to be used in view of the time frame of the project;, accuracy; portability & transportability of scanners: Indian weather conditions and most importantly, Indian psychology 4‐ Identification of data collection locations. 5‐ Data management planning i.e. data storing, data mining and data retrieval. 6‐ Data points identification keeping in mind the final consumers i.e. apparel industry, automotives industry, medical, gloves and millinery etc. 7‐ Training of personnel. 8‐ Key challenge is to define and identify statistically relevant sample size and further ensure that the data collection is from the relevant sample. The need is established, the challenges are known, and it’s time for action now … Bibliography 1. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthropometry 2. Sizing Survey Benefits Many Manufacturers Published on: Jul, 31, 2002 by: Kelly Roach, SCRC http://scm.ncsu.edu 3. http://www.sae.org/standardsdev/tsb/cooperative/caesumm.htm 4. http://wear.io.tudelft.nl/ 5. http://www.who.int 6. UK : http://www.bodymetrics.com UK: www.shapegb.org/ US : http://www.sizeusa.com/ Australia :Veitch, D. Veitch, L. and Henneberg, M. ; Sizing for the Clothing Industry Using Principal Component Analysis—An Australian Example Published Online: 27 April 2007;SEDL / Journals / Journal of ASTM International (JAI) France: Elfriede Kirchdörfer and Martin Rupp; Possibilities and capabilities of 3D‐body‐ scanning systems for the purpose of risk assessment HETRA RfP C1.6 Human Health Projects ‐ Consumer Exposure 2005 Mexico: Karen Davis A Sizing Study of the Population of Mexico July 1, 2010; Publication TC2 Thailand: Supiya Charoensiriwath and Piyawut Srichaikul , Constructing Thailand's National Anthropometrics Database using 3D Body Scanning Technology ,National Electronics and Computer Technology Center, Thailand 2009 www.sizethailand.org. China: Educational Showcase Embarks On Size Survey,just‐style.com , June 2004 China: Roger Ball, IDSA, SizeChina The World Shapes, Innovation Fall 2008 Page 158 www. innovat ionjourna l .org


CAESAR: The most comprehensive source for body measurement data;http://www.sae.org/technicalcommittees/caesarhome.htm UK National Sizing Survey Sweden: Lars Hanson, Lena Sperling, Gunvor Gard, Staffan Ipsen, Cindy Olivares Vergara, Swedish anthropometrics for product and workplace design Applied Ergonomics, Volume 40, Issue 4, July 2009, Pages 797‐806 7. Anthropometric data complied by Reetu Yadav MFT student for ‘Size India’ project as part of Minor research project under guidance of Noopur Anand 2009 8. Indian Body Dimensions, Dr Deepti Gupta, March 2008, IIT Delhi www.techexchange.com/library

December 2011


Size Does Matter - Need for Size India - National Body Sizing Survey of Indian

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