CT1203
How to do your own measuring, pattern drafting, fabric selection, cutting, and sewing for a perfect fit
Anna Romaniuk and Ellen Knight
.\,;~LIVIERS E L EM EN-fAt~Y
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J..l31 5 - 75th AVENUE .., DELTA, B.C. . V4C 1 H4
4~ Copp Clark Publishing A Division of Copp Clark Limited Vancouver Calgary Toronto Montreal
Beautiful fabrics and exciting styles make pants an important part of every woman's wardrobe for office, leisure, and formal wear. Pants has been written as a practical guide for those who wish to design and sew "best-fitting" pants for every occasion . The text contains all the information you need for accurate measuring, drafting the pattern to match the measurements, selecting a suitable fabric, and then cutting out and sewing your new garment. Home sewers have been learning since 1967 how to draft their own garment patterns, through the Home Study Course offered by the Huron School of Fashion. Anna and Walter Romaniuk, founders of the school, have helped thousands of home sewers to solve their designing and fitting problems. The drafting procedures given in this book are the result of years of experimentation and testing by Walter Romaniuk. Using this simple, easy-to-follow method, you can draft a pattern for slacks to your own individual measurement and body contours. Regardless of your shape or size, you will have a perfectly-fitting garm_ent in the style of your choice, and you can do the same for any number of relatives and friends. This all-new method has made pattern drafting so easy a child can do it. This publication is the result of many years of combined experience in designing, pattern drafting, sewing , tailoring , and teaching . Every member of our staff has contributed to it in some way and Janet Log ie has given valuable assistance in preparing the manuscript. It is our hope that this book will provide the means for you to enjoy many happy hours of drafting and sewing, and the pride of accomplishment that you will experience when wearing your own perfectly-fitting "custom made" garment. Note that the words pants and slacks are used interchangeably throughout the book. All measurements are given in both the English and the Metric systems. In every case the measurement is given in inches followed, in brackets, by the measurement in centimetres. The measurement in "em" is not always exactly equivalent to the measurement in inches. Both measurements are sufficiently accurate. Anna Romaniuk Ellen Knight
1 The pattern draft
3 Sewing techniques
An Introduction to Pattern Drafting Measuring Drafting the Basic Slack Pattern The Basic Slack Pattern Adjustments for Figure Prob!ems Protruding Stomach High Hip Curve One High Hip Sway Back Full Derriere Flat Derriere Low Crotch Location Style Variations Straight Leg and Elephant Pants Flared Pants and Slims Shorts Checking the Pattern Draft Crotch Depth Measurement Matching Side Seams Minimum Cuff Measurement Upper Thigh Measurement Minimum Knee Measurement
1 2 4 6 8 8 8 10 10 10 12 12 14 15 16 17 18 18 18 18 18 18
2 Layout and cutting procedures
19 19 19 20 20 21 21 21 21 21 23 23
Separating the Pattern Pieces Estimating the Correct Amount of Fabric Preparation of the Fabric Pattern Layout Fabrics With a Nap or Direction Prints Plaids Checks Stripes Marking and Outlining the Pattern Cutting the Fabric
Sewing, Pressing, Fitting the Basic Slacks Zipper Closings Fly Front Zipper Side Zipper Additional Types of Closings Loops and Buttons Lacing Button Fly Invisible Button Fly Pockets Patch Pocket Pocket with Bound (Double Welt) Opening Side Seam Pocket Western Style Pocket Waist Finishes Waistbands Waist Facing Elastic Waist Waist Yoke Hip-Hugger Pants Belt Loops Leg Finishes Hem of Pants Legs Cuffs Decorative Touches Children's Slacks Maternity Slacks
4 Pant fabrics Chart !-Fabrics Suitable for Slacks Chart 11-How to Handle Fabrics
Index
25 25 26 26 30 31 32 32 32 35 36 36 37 40 42 44 44 45 45 46 47 47 48 48 49 50 51 51 53 54 55 57
1
An introduction to pattern drafting Patterns are the basis of most sewn garments. The pattern draft outlines the required shapes and sizes of the sections of fabrics which, when seamed together, form the desired garment. Since the fabric is flat, it must be made to fit the body contours by the removal of wedge-shaped sections called "darts," which are drawn right on the pattern draft. The curved areas such as the stomach , hips, and buttocks, all require shaping or darting if a smooth fit is desired . If you have not had experience with pattern drafting before, you wi ll need to know a few basics to make the drafting instructions easy to follow. All patterns are constructed within a pattern block, which is a rectangle outlining the length and approximately half the width of the garment. Usually, only half of the front and half of the back pattern need to be drawn as the left and right sides of the body are the same and the pattern will be placed on fabric which is folded double. In the case of slacks, this general rule wil l hold true except for certain figure faults which will be specified later in the book. As mentioned, the pattern draft is an outline or drawing of a specific shape, and as such, it will require the use of special instruments when being drafted . The following instruments are recommended: a yard-stick or metre-stick with accurate markings for drawing and measuring straight lines; a plastic triangle or square which is used to draw 90 degree angles and to keep all the corners of the pattern block square; and a French Curve which is used as an aid in drawing smooth and precise curved lines .
The knowledge of a few terms wil l also benefit the novice pattern designer. In the instructions, the lines forming the pattern draft may be termed horizontal , vertical, parallel, perpendicular, slanting or curved. 1
9
./
142
7
v\
w
5
X
Fig. 1
90°
4
y
z
3
On the rectangular pattern block 12-3-4 in Fig. 1, a pattern draft is drawn. Lines (1-2) and (Y- Z) are examples of horizontal lines, while (1- 4) and (X-Z) are vertical. A vertical line is said to be perpendicular (at 90 degrees) to a horizontal line. Lines (W-Y) and (X-Z) are parallel. (X-5) and (5-14) are examples of slanting lines, while (8-W) and (7-8) are curved lines.
2 Measuring
All patterns are drawn to predetermined measurements which must be taken with the utmost care. Knowing how to take measurements correctly and accurately cannot be over-emphasized . As it is impossible to take your own measurements, have someone take them for you, being sure that they take them exactly as explained. Measurements should be taken while wearing correctly-fitting undergarments. The person being measured should stand erect but in her natural manner. Be sure that the tape measure is accurate. Some tapes become stretched after frequent use. Before starting to measure, compare the markings on the tape to those on the ruler you are planning to use for drafting you r patterns. Before drawing up your slack pattern in full scale, it is wise to practise drafting the pattern in a smaller scale, especially if you are unfamiliar with pattern drafting. Thus the slack
draft could fit on two pieces of paper the size of this page, which can be taped together. We recommend that you draft your ful l scale patterns on any good quality medium weight paper about 36" (92 em) wide; for example, wrapping paper, table paper, or wall paper. Ordinary blank newspaper may also be used. It may be purchased from printers or paper dealers either in rolls or sheets. If sheets are used, you will probably have to tape two sheets together to make a section large enough for your full scale draft. Accuracy is the basis of successful pattern drafting . No pattern can fulfil l its purpose of a "perfect and flattering fit" unless the measurements are taken properly and accurately and the lines and outlines are drawn with care , neatness, and precision. With this in mind , the successful drafting of your own " perfect-fit" pattern is assured. The measurements which are required for drafting the slack pattern and instructions on how they are to be taken follow.
Record of measurements Waist measurement Hip measurement Thigh measurement Knee Location Slack Length Knee measurement Cuff measurement Supplementary Measurements Slack Length (to floor) Inseam Length (to floor) Subtract for crotch depth measurement Minimum Knee measurement Minimum Cuff measurement
3 Measurements
Waist measurement - Measure around the waist as tightly or as loosely as the person may prefer the slacks to fit at the waist (Fig. 2).
Hip Measurement - Measure around the fullest part of the hips. The easiest way to determine the location of the fu llest part of the hips is by placing the tape fairly high around the hips, then wh ile holding the tape firm ly but not too tightly, slide the tape down, slowly releasing it until the largest part around is found . This can be anywhere from 5" (13 em) to 12" (3 1 em) below the waistline -with some people the thighs are the largest part.
Thigh Measurement- Measure around the top of the leg just below the crotch. This measurement is taken for checking the pattern draft only.
Knee Location - Measure from the side of the waistline down over the hip to the center of the knee on the side.
Slack Length- Measure the finished side length down over the hip from the waist.
Knee Measurement - Measure around the center of the knee while the person is standing up. Check for the ease required by measuring around ~he knee while the person is sitting down.
Fig. 2
Cuff Measurement- Measure around the ankle, releasing the tape to the size of cuff desired by the person .
4 Drafting the basic slack pattern Pages 6 and 7 contain the drafting instructions for the basic slack pattern. To make these instructions easy to fol low, a few explanations will be hel pful . First of all , you must use both the drawing and the instructions together referring back and forth between the two, checking each instruction with what has been done on the drawi ng . This procedure is especially important in locating the numbers on the figure which have been referred to in the text. It must be noted that the points on the figure are for the most part numbered in the order in which they are drawn. For example, the rectangle or pattern block is drawn first and labelled 1-2-3-4 (Fig . 4). The crotch line is measured and drawn next and labelled line 5-P. Then line 6-0, the knee location line is constructed on the pattern. The procedure continues in this manner with instructions for locating the next points 7, 8 etc. The instructions could begin as follows: " With ru ler and pencil draw a straight horizontal line from point 1 to point 2 equal to 3/a of your hip measurement. From point 2 draw a vertical line to 3 equal to the length of the slacks. From point 3 draw a horizontal line to point 4 equal to line 1-2. Join point 4 to point 1 to complete the rectangle. " To conserve space the instructions given in the preceding paragraph have been abbreviated to read : " Horizontal line 1-2 = 3/a of hip. Vertical line 2-3 = Length of slacks. Complete the rectangle: (3-4) = (1-2) and (4-1) = (2-3) ." When the pattern instructions read "Measure 2-6 = knee location" assume that since point 6 is on the 2-3 line (as illustrated in Fig. 4), you must place your ruler along line 2-3 and measure down from point 2 the exact knee location measurement in order to mark point 6.
Two pattern blocks will be required for each slack pattern: one block for the front pattern (Fig . 4), and the other for the back pattern (Fig . 5). Secondly, unless specified as " curved ," all lines are considered to be straight. If the line is specified as a "curved line," study the shape of the curve as drawn in Fig . 4, for example, before copying the shape freehand on your own pattern. Then , match the freehand curve to one of the edges on your french curve and redraw to make the curve smooth . You may have to draw a curve in two parts. Fi rst, match up one section of the curve with one part of your french curve and red raw. Then match the instrument to the other section to smooth out the remaining part of the freehand curve. . Thirdly, the final step in drafting the basic slack pattern involves constructing the waist darts. In the abbreviated instructions only the location and size of these darts are g iven. When you reach this stage in drafting your slack pattern read Page 5 while referring to Fig. 3 . Seam Allowance When you draft your own slack pattern you are working on the actual measurements which do not include an allowance for seams. For information about seam allowances please refer to pages 23 and 24.
Darts Front darts A and B (Fig. 3) are 314'' (2 em) wide and 41/2" (11 .5 em) long. Dart B is separated from dart A by 1" (2.6 em). Draw dart A first using line A-11 as the centerline. Measure 3 /a" (1 em) on either side of point A. Draw in dart lines from these points to a point on the centerline 41/2" (11 .5 em) below A. Measure 1" (2.6
5 em) towards point 14 from this dart. Then measure a further 314'' (2 em) for the second dart. Point B marks the mid-point of the second dart. First, draw the center line from point Bat 90 degrees to line (9-14), and 41/2" (11.5 em) long. Then draw in dart lines from the points 3 /a" ( 1 em) either side of B to the end of the centerline.
9 1 CM.
2CM.
Fig. 3.
Back darts E and F are located 1/2" (1 .3 em) on either side of mid-point of line (9a-14), 3/4'' (2 em) wide and 5" (13 em) long. First, find the mid-point of 9a--14. Measure from this mid-point 1/2" (1.3 em) towards the center
back seam and place a mark. Measure a further 314'' (2 em) and place another mark for dart E. Draw in the centerline for this dart at 90 degrees to line (9a- 14) 5" (13 em) long. Draw in dart lines from the two dart marks down to the end of the centerline. Locate the other back dart (F) by measuring from the mid-point 1/2" (1.3 em) towards the side seam for the first dart mark and a further 314'' (2 em) for the second mark. Draw the centerline as for dart E and join the dart lines. The measurements given for the length of these darts are standard measurements for front and back waist darts. But, if required , these darts may be lengthened or shortened. Men's Pants can be made from this basic pattern, but, as they do not have darts in the front you must make this change in the pattern draft: 9 to 14 on the front pattern is equal to 1 / 4 of the waist measurement, rather than the 1 / 4 of the waist plus 11/2" (3.8 em) as used on the basic pattern draft for women. For a knit or stretch fabric you must make this change in the pattern draft: draft the pattern u ~ ing the Hip Measurement less 2" (4 em). For example, if the Hip Measurement is 38" (96 em) , the pattern is drafted using 36" (92 em). The knit or stretch fabric allows for ease in fitting . This ease is allowed for in the drafting instructions for the basic pattern for use with normal fabrics. Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 are drawn to scale from the measurements given at the top of Fig. 4. Substitute your measurements for those given and you will have a pattern suitable for your own slacks. It is wise to make up a trial pattern first if you are dubious about following the instructions. Once you have convinced yourself how easy it is to draft the pattern using these abbreviated instructions, you will find that with a little practice you can make a pattern in 15-20 minutes.
6 The basic slack pattern
MEASUREMENTS WAIST HIP LENGTH KNEE LOCATION KNEE MEAS. CUFF MEAS.
Front
IN. CM 30 76 40 104 36 92 22 56 15 38 18 46
DIRECTIONS
PATTERN BLOCK
Horizontal line 1-2 = 3 /a of hip Vertical line 2---3 = length of slacks Complete rectangle: (3-4) = (1-2) (4-1) = (2---3) Make 2-5 = 1/ 4 of hip+ 1" (2.5 em) Make 2---6 = knee location Draw horizontal lines 5-P and
9
6--0 FRONT
Measure 5-7= 1 / 4 of hip Measure from point 7, 1 / 4 of (5-7) and mark point 8. Point 11 is mid-point of (5-8). Draw vertical line through point 11 parallel to (2---3) intersecting line (1-2) at A, knee location at point 12, and line (3-4) at point 13. Measure A-9 = 1/a of waist Joint 7-9 (7-10) = (7 --8) Join 8 to 10 with curved line as shown. Add 3" (8 em) to knee width. Measure 1 / 4 of cuff width on each side of 13 and mark Y and Z. Draw leg seams by joining 5-X-Z and 8-W-Y. Make (9- 14)= 1/ 4 of waist + 11/2"(4 em) (for darts) Join 5-14 with a slightly curved line as shown. Front Darts A and B are 314'' (2 em) wide and 41/2" (15 em) long. Separate the two darts by 1" (2.5 em).
10
FRONT
Q
4
W
12----§X
y
13 Fig. 4
z
6
3
7 The basic slack pattern Back DIRECTIONS BACK
2
BACK
a
4
w+-----+12--~x
y
13 Fig. 5
z
s
3
14
Construct a second pattern block, exactly the same as the front, for the back pattern. Measure 5-7 = 1 / 4 of hip Measure 1-9 = 3 /4 of 5-7 9a is 1/2" (1.3 em) above 9 Joint 7 to 9a. Measure 7-10 = 1 / 4 of 5-7 Point 8 is 314'' (2 em) below 8 on line (1--4). Join 8-10 with curved line as shown. Mark 11 same distance from 5 as on front. Construct vertical line 11 -12 -13 parallel to line (2---3). Make knee and cuff width markings as for front. Join W-Yand X-Z. Draw back inseam from 8 to W curving in 1/2" (1.3 em) from straight guideline 8-W as shown. Measure (7- 9a) (7-15) = 1 /3 of (7-9a) 15-16 = 1 / 4 of hip. Locate point 16 on extended 7-5 line. Join 16 to X 9a-14 = 1 / 4 of waist+ 11 /2" (3.8 em) (for darts). Draw 9a-14 through 2. Join 14-16 as shown. Note: Drawing the waistline (9-14) through point 2 usually locates point 14 accurately. However, measure 14-16 (Back Pattern) and 5-14 (Front Pattern) to check that the side seams are equal. If necessary move point 14 up or down. Use the required amount and redraw 9-14, ignoring point 2. Back darts E and F are located 1/2" (1.3 em) either side of midpoint of 9a-14, 314'' (2 em) wide and 5" (13 em) long.
I
8 Adjustments for figure problems
Although th is slack pattern will eliminate the need to alter for variations in figure proportions, certain figure problems will require pattern adjustments. On these following six pages, the left hand pages contai n descriptions of the figure problems and how they distort the fit of the pants. On the right hand pages, opposite the problems, are detailed
1. Protruding stomach -
instructions on how to adjust the pattern for each problem to correct the fit. Do not anticipate problems based on past experiences with commercial patterns or ready-made slacks. Fi rst .draft the pattern exactly as described on the previous pages using your own measurements. Following the instructions in the succeeding chapters for the correct pattern layout, seam allowance (page 24) and sewing procedures, cut the pattern out and sew it up in some inexpensive fabric such as
Problem
a) The stomach may protrude enough to cause a slight strain across the abdominal area of the pants. b) A larger stomach may cause the pants to pull up over the protrusion, resulting in wrinkles as shown in Fig. 6a.
Fig. 6a
2 . High hip curve- Problem
Hips curve out sharply from the waist. If insufficient contour is allowed for these curves, the pants will wrin kle as shown in Fig . ?a.
Fig. 7a
9 muslin or an old sheet. Add a waistband and press. Try the pants on, pinning the opening and waistband closed. Stand normally and have someone check the fit. Some wrinkles will naturally form· when you move or do not stand straight, but these are not the type of wrinkles you are to look for. Instead , check that the pants hang straight and fit smoothly with no unusual wrinkles or pullings. If you do spot a problem area, look through the following information to determine the cause of the problem and its solution.
It must be remembered that to become professional in anything you do, it is necessary to work and practice by you rself. Similarly, with this pattern, you wi ll have to do some experimenting on you r own to get a tru ly excellent fit . So do not get discouraged on you r first try. Subsequent adjustments and fittings will prove very rewarding . Once you have perfected your own basic slack pattern, you will be able to make any pant style with success, and the experience you will have gained in solving any fitting problem will be invaluable.
1. Protruding stomach -
Solution
a) When the protrusion is not large, cu rving the darts slightly inwards as shown wi ll solve the problem. b) To introduce sufficient room for the larger stomach alter the pattern as follows: slash the pattern from A to B. Spread the top section the amount required for the p rotruding stomach.
Fig. 6b
2 . High hip curve -
a
Solution
For high hip curves, measure the distance (a) from the side waist down to the location of the largest part of the cu rve and then determine the circumference (b) of the body at this location. On the front pattern measure from point 14 down the distance (a) and draw a horizontal line across the pattern at this point. The horizontal line must equal 1 / 4 of the above measurement (b), as measured from the centerfront seam. Redraw the hip curves through this width. Similarly alter the back pattern. Darts may need to be shortened slightly. When the hip measurement is over 44" (11 2 em), check that there is sufficient width in the pattern in the area about 4" to 5" (1 0- 13 em) below the waist as described above. This method may also be used for people with very high hip locations. Take the hip
k. (b)
I I I
I I I
Fig. 7b measurement around the fullest part of the derriere. Draft the pattern on this measurement and alter for high hip curves at the actual hip location.
10
3. One high hip -
Problem
One hip is higher than the other. When enough room is not allowed for the higher side, the pants will wrinkle on this side and distort the fit.
Fig. Sa
4. Sway back -
Problem
For the sway back problem, horizontal wrinkles will appear below the waist. A sway back hollows noticeably in the waist area causing the back waistline t6 curve down in the middle of the back.
Fig. 9a
5. Full derriere -
Problem
The problem of a large derriere may cause pullings in the crotch area of the slacks as shown. These pullings are the result of insufficient length in the back crotch curve. However, this problem most often results from inaccurate measuring, pattern drafting , or sewing.
Fig. 10a
11
3. One high hip -
Solution
When this adjustment is necessary, the pant sections will have to be cut singly. Two front patterns and two back patterns will be required. One front and one back should be altered for the high hip. The other two patterns should be left as drafted. Lay out the patterns carefully so that the left and right pant sections will correspond to the normal and high sides of your body. To adjust the pattern for this problem, draw a horizontal line across the front and back patterns about 5" (13 em) below the waist. Slash this line from the side seam to within 1/ 16" (.1 em) of center seam. Spread the top section as showt:l to introduce more room for the one higher hip. To determine the amount of spreading required measure from the side waist to the floor on both sides of the body.
Fig. 8b The difference in the measurements wil l be the amount the pattern is to be spread. Darts may need to be shortened on the higher side. Redraw the center seam as shown in Fig. 8b.
14
4. Sway back- Solution To eliminate the horizontp.l wrinkles caused by the sway back, use line (9-14) for the back waistline of the pants instead of line (9a-14). (See Fig. 9b.)
Fig. 9b
5. Full derriere -
Solution
To allow more room for the derriere, the back crotch curve will have to be made longer by extending it past the original crotch point 8 and redrawing the back inseam from the new crotch point in to the original inseam line. (See the dotted line in Fig . 1Ob). For pants that have already been sewn together, let out the back inseam to provide more room for the derriere.
8
Fig. 10b
12
6 . Flat derriere -
Problem
Excessive looseness in the derriere area will resu lt when the derriere is flat , as too much room has been provided in the back crotch.
Fig. 11a
L
J
I
7. Low crotch location -
Problem
If you have a low crotch location which has not been allowed for in 1/4 hip + 1" (2.5 em) measurement used on pattern, the pants will form a pleat at the front crotch.
Fig. 12a
13
6. Flat derriere -
To determine if you will need to make the back crotch smaller, measure the inseam length from crotch to floor (see page 18) and the side length from the side waist to the floor. Subtract the two measurements for the crotch depth measurement. Use this measurement for the distance from the waist to the crotch line on your pattern. Then, tie a string around your waist to mark the waist position and measure the crotch curve from the center front waist down and under the crotch and back up to the center back waist. Compare this measurement to the length of the seams from point 9 to point 8 on the front pattern plus 9a to 8 on the back pattern. If you find the pattern is more than 2" --3" (5- 7.5 em) in excess of your crotch curve measurement, you may want to take 1/ 2" to 314'' (1 .3-2 em) off the back crotch as shown.
Fig. 11b
7. Low crotch location -
Solution
Solution
The crotch seam can be resewn lower and the seam allowances cut down if the pants have already been made up. To correct this on the pattern, take the inseam and the side seam measurements to the floor. The difference between these two measurements is the d istance from the waist to the crotch line on your pattern.
Fig. 12b
14
Style variations
By altering the measurement of the pant legs in the cuff, knee or thigh area, you can vary the line of the pants greatly. Straight-legged, flares, elephant or baggie pants, slims and shorts are styles which can easily be made with the basic slack pattern procedure. The following pages will show you how to adjust the basic pattern for the various styles shown on this page.
Shorts
Elephant Pants
Slims
Flores Fig. 13
15
Straight leg and elephant pant styles The Straight-legged style is the style featured in the basic slack pattern draft (Figs. 4 and 5) . The pant leg is equal in width from the knee, or just above the knee, to the cuff. This style may give the leg an illusion of length if the cuff is allowed to hang down over a shoe with a higher heel. Hot Pants may be made from this pattern. Measure the length desired down from the side waist. Cut the pant pattern at this length. Allow for the cuff as shown on page 17. Elephant or Baggie Pants are popular for various times of the day. Dayti me and sport
n
a..)•
,
plaids create their own look, while soft drapey fabrics create the evening look. For Elephant or Baggie Pants the basic slack pattern forms the outline, then the pant legs are drawn straight down from the hips to the hem. Slight shaping may be desired at the seat, but there is little or no shaping in the thigh or knee area. This pant style may be cuffed or simply hemmed. Draw the pant legs straight down from 8 and 5 (Fig. 14) on the front pattern toY and Z at the hem. Measure from 12 to W on the front pattern and measure this same distance from 12 and mark Won the back pattern . Draw the back side seam straight down to Z . Curve the back inseam in slightly, as shown, down to the knee and then straight down to Y.
MEASUREMENTS WAIST HIP KNEE LOCATION LENGTH
,,
IN. CM
24 36 21 34
61 92 53 86
5
FRONT BACK
w
12
w
X
12
X
Fig. 14 y
13
z
y
13
z
16
Flared pants and slims Slims are characterized by a narrow cuff width. First decide on the width of cuff desired. Refer to page 18 for measuring the minimum size of cuff you can use. Measure 1/4 of the desired cuff width on either side of point
MEASUREMENTS WAIST HIP LENGTH FLARED CUFF MEAS.
13 and mark points a and b. Join a and b to the knee width points for the leg seams as shown in solid lines on the diagram. There are many possible variations of this pattern. The pant legs of slims may be altered in length to create peddle-pusher or deck pants styles, or slit 6" (15 em) or so up from the hem.
IN. CM MEASUREMENTS 66 KNEE LOCATION 96 KNEE MEAS. 89 CUFF MEAS.
26 38 35 20
IN. CM
21Xz 54.5 14 36 13 ::)3
51
FRONT
w
FLARES
""'
12
w
X
12
X
SLIMS
/
Fig. 15
y
0
13
b
z
y a
13
b
z
17
The Flare Pants or "bells" which are fitted to the knee, or just above the knee, flare out to a very wide cuff. This style may give an illusion of height depending on the length of the pant leg and the height of the shoe heel worn. Knee width is drawn as for the basic pattern. Draw the leg seams from the knee location out to 1/ 4 of the cuff measurement at points y and z as measured on either side of point 13. The broken line on the diagram represents the pattern adjustment for flares .
Shorts
Shorts may also be made from the basic slack draft. Draw the length of the pattern block equal to the length of the shorts as measured
down from the side waist. To determine the cuff measurement of the shorts, measure around you r thigh at the length of the shorts desired and add 2" -4" (5-1 0 em) for ease. Take 1/ 4 of this measurement on both sides of pointE and mark C and D. (Fig. 16). Draw the leg seams as shown. On this pattern the waistline is drawn as 1/ 4 of the waist measurement + 314'' (2 em) for an elasticized waistline. (See page 45 for details). For the hem allowance draw a horizontal (dotted) line on the pattern 2" (5 em) above C-D. Fold the bottom of the pattern under on line C-D. Place a sheet of tracing paper under the pattern and trace up the pant seams 2" (5 em) and across the dotted line to transfer the markings for the hem allowance to the bottom of the pattern.
MEASUREMENTS WAIST HIP CUFF MEAS.
,...I r- - - - - - -
11
c
5
- -- - ---
a
I
D
E L
26 66 38 96 20 51
BACK
FRONT
a
IN. CM
I
Fig. 16
18
Checking the pattern draft
Upper thigh measurement
Once you have completed the pattern draft, you may want to make a final check that your pattern will fit you in the areas which have been drawn to standard procedures or measurements.
Measure around the leg just below the crotch. Add 3" (7.5 em) to this measurement for ease in non-stretch fab rics and 2" (5 em) for knit or stretch fabrics. If a tighter fit is desired add only 1" (2.5 em). Measure the distance (a) down from the side waist to the point where this thigh measurement was taken (Fig . 18). On both patterns mark the distance (a) down from Point 14 and draw a horizontal line (S-T) across the pant leg of each pattern . Compare the length of this line (front plus back patterns) with the upper thigh measurement + 1" , 2", or 3" ( + 2.5, 5, or 7.5 em). Remove any excess by taking in the leg seams by equal amounts as shown in Fig. 18. If this measurement is larger than the pattern, add the difference to the pattern leg seams, adding 1/4 of the extra requ ired to each seam at location (a).
Crotch depth measurement
If you are exceptionally long or short from the waist to the crotch, check to see that the crotch line is in the correct position on your pattern. Subtract the inseam length to the floor from the side length to the floor. The result is the crotch depth which is the distance (2-5) on the pattern. The inseam is accurately measured by attaching one end of the measuring tape to a pencil. Take this measurement as follows: Place the pencil between the legs at the crotch and measure down the inside of the leg · to the floor. Matching side seams
It is best to check that the side seams will match when sewn togethe r. Measure the front and back side seams on the pattern , from Point 14 to the knee location. If unequal, alter the position of Point 14 on the back pattern up or down (Fig . 5), retaining the correct distance from Point 9, until the side seams are equal in length.
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Minimum cuff measurement
The minimum cuff measurement at the ankle is determined by measuring around the foot as shown in Fig. 17. Cuffs of slims can not be made narrower than this measurement, unless the pant leg is slit about 4" (1 0 em) up from the hem.
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Minimum knee measurement
Fig. 17
Measure around the fully bent knee to get the minimum width of the pattern at the knee location.
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Separating the pattern pieces Before purchasing and cutting out your pant fabric you should separate the pattern from its block. Cut along the heavy solid lines as indicated on the Basic Slack Pattern draft (refer to pages 6 and 7) . Cut out the darts on the pattern pieces only to simplify transfer of sewing lines on the fabric. If pockets, waist facing, yoke or fly are to be used, draw them directly on the slack draft, and then trace onto separate sheets of paper to avoid cutting up the front and back patterns. For more information on these style details see Chapter 3. Label all pattern pieces. Signify whether each piece is to be placed on the fold, to be cut single, double or in fours. Mark all vertical lines on the pattern "lengthwise grainline," or "straight of goods." Notches are important for any sewer. On the slack patterns notches are marked on both sides of the knee location (points Wand X), at the intersection of the crotch li ne and the side seam-point 5 (front), point 16 (back), and at the intersection of the creaseline with the waistline. A notch may also be placed on the center front and back seams at point 10.
Estimating the correct amount of fabric To save money, you will want to be able to buy the exact amount of fabric req ui red for you r pattern .
Once you have separated the pattern pieces, you can easily determine the required amount by taking the patter"n pieces to the fabric store with you ..With so many different uses for slacks and so many fabrics on the market today, choosing the right fab rics for your slacks has become a big decision . For help with th is problem, refer to Chapter 4 on Fabrics, page 53. When you have selected the fabric, ask the salesgirl to unroll about two yards of the bolt. Lay out your pattern pieces on th is length following the directions for Pattern Layout given on page 20. Remember to allow for seam allowances and hem. Then measure the length required. If you have previously decided on a fabric and the refore have the advantage of knowing its width, you can accurately determine the length required at home. Stretch two lengths (about 2 yards) of string on the floor to represent 1/2 the width of the fabric . Place your pattern pieces between the two strings leaving enough space between them for seam allowances and hems. Remember to allow for waistband, pockets, etc ., if used. After the pattern pieces are placed, the exact length of the fabri c required can then be measured. Special layout procedures are required for fab rics featu ring a directional design or nap, checks, plaids and uneven stripes. Generally, checked, plaid and striped fabrics require the addition of two extra design repeats (eg., 2 plaid blocks) to the length for matching .
20 Preparation of the fabric Depending on the nature of the fabric you have chosen, certain precautionary measures are necessary to prepare the fabric for cutting. To determine whether the fabric requires pre-shrinking refer to the chart on Page 53. Before cutting, all washable knits and crimps should be washed and drier dried at wash and wear setting as they may have been stretched when rolled in bolts. It is wise to then press and apply a spray fabric finish to give body to the knit fabric for sewing. Cottons should be wet thoroughly, left to air dry on a flat surface , and then pressed with steam setting. To preshrink wools, wet an old sheet thoroughly. Place the wool on top of the sheet and , starting at one end, fold the sheet and wool together over and over to the other end. Leave the fabric folded for several hours to allow the wool to absorb the moisture from the sheet. Then remove the sheet and lay the wool out flat to dry. Instead you may take the entire length to the dry cleaners for a steam pressing, or place a wet sheet on top of the wool and steam press at home. Checking the grain of the fabric is another important step. The lengthwise and crosswise yarns must be at 90 degrees to each other to ensure that the garment will hang properly when finished . One method of checking the grain requires you to even out the raw edges of the fabric by pulling a crosswise yarn close to one end so that puckers form across the fabric marking this one yarn. Cut across the fabric on this yarn. This end is now "trued " to the crosswise grain. Repeat for other end. Check to see that the corners of the fabric are square by comparing with the corner of a rectangular table. If the corners do not match, the fabric is off grain. To straighten the grain, either pull the opposite corners of the fabric until they are square, or use your iron to ease the lengthwise and crosswise yarns into correct alignment. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. With raw edges even, pin the selvages together. If the fabric permits, steam press from selvage edges towards the fold to remove excess wrinkles and thus straighten the grain.
Avoid permanent press fabrics which are off grain as they can not be straightened satisfactorily. The grain should be straightened before or after pre-shrinking depending on the method used. Washable fabrics may be pulled on grain after wetting; wool fabri cs right after being unrolled from the sheet. Fabrics which do not require preshrinking should be straightened before proceeding to the next step. After the fabric has been prepared, fold it in half lengthwise with the right sides together. Pin the selvages every 12" (30 em) or so. For striped, checked or plaid fabrics, make sure that matching stripes or blocks are directly on top of one another. Then pin the two layers at regular intervals. Pin slippery fabrics such as sheers or light weight crepes to tissue paper before placing the pattern and cutting , to prevent the fabrics from slipping and stretching during handling.
Pattern layout Before you purchase the exact amount of fabric you will require , you must know how to place the pattern pieces correctly on the fabric. Figs. 19, 20 and 21 on pages 22 and 23 show the proper placement of the front and back patterns on different fabrics. All vertical lines on the pattern pieces should be placed along the lengthwise grain or the straight of goods of the fabric. For accuracy, adjust the pattern so that the distance from the pattern grainline to the selvage edges of the fabric is the same along the length of the pattern piece. If necessary, the crotch piece can be cut out separately as shown on Fig. 21 . Waistline facings may be placed with the center front on the fold to eliminate the bulk of an extra seam, only if a side opening is used. Remember to allow for seam and hem allowances for each pattern piece. Once the position of each piece is decided , pin (or, if recommended , tape) the pattern to the fabric so that it does not shift nor slip out of place.
21
Checks, plaids, stripes, and one way fabrics, all require extra attention with respect to pattern layout (see Figs . 19 and 20). Care must be taken in the placement of design sections, in the matching of the design at the seams, and in the placement of the pattern when the fabric features a nap or one way design. Each of the above types of fabric are discussed separately below.
Fabrics with a nap or direction To determine whether a fabric has a nap, rub the hand up and down the surface of the material. If there is a difference in the feel , between the two directions, the fabric has a nap. Notice also the slight change in colour as the nap is disturbed.AII napped fabrics must be cut so that the nap is running in the same direction throughout the garment. Cut velvet and corduroy pants with the nap running up from the cuffs to the waist. These fabrics will then have a richer, deeper appearance. Secure the pattern pieces with scotch tape or pin with silk pins to the wrong side of the fabric. Wool broadcloth and other napped fabrics must be cut with the nap running down from waist to hem. Certain prints and plaids also must be cut with the design running in the same direction on all pant sections. Usually you can tell if the directional treatment is necessary just by looking at the print or plaid . To make sure, place opposite ends of fabric beside each other in a manner such that the design is running one way on one end, and the opposite way on the other end. Check to see if there is a difference in appearance between the two. If the design is not completely symmetrical , directional treatment is required.
Prints If the design on the print is large, matching at the seams may be necessary. If the print features a dominant shape, repeated at regular intervals, decide on the most effective place-
ment of these shapes. For example, avoid placing a dominant shape on the widest part of the hips or derriere. Keep in mind that the left and right sides must be in balance. Check the print to determine if it will require special directional layout.
Plaids Some plaids will also require the directional layout. Such fabrics are the uneven plaids which do not have a symmetrical stri pe arrangement in the lengthwise and crosswise directions, as well as the plaid fabrics with napped surfaces. If these fabrics are to be cut double, special fabric preparation is required. Pin one plaid section directly on top of the other t::>efore placing the pattern pieces. But the fabric can be cut single, if desired. All plaids should be matched at the pant seams, and if possible the vertical plaid stripes should meet to form a chevron or vee at shaped seams. To match plaids at seamlines, place corresponding notches on the same plaid lines (see Fig. 20).
Checks Generally, checks do not-have to be matched if less than one half inch (1.3 em) in width. Larger checks are treated as horizontal stripes with respect to pattern layout, and matching at side seams and inseams.
Stripes Place the most obvious stripes where they will look best. For horizontal stripes, place the dominant stripe at the cuff, unless this stri pe will occur also on the widest part of the hip. With vertical stripes, the dominant stripe can be centered in the middle of each pant leg. For a straight pant leg, a wide dominant stripe down the side seam may be desirable. These pointers should be considered when placing pattern on plaid fabrics , too, as plaids often feature a dominant stripe in the vertical and/or horizontal direction.
22 If vertical stripes are evenly spaced in a repeating manner, they may be matched at the shaped side seams to chevron both above and below the knee. If vertical stripes are uneven, they will probably not chevron on the shaped side seams. Horizontal stripes should be matched at side seams and inseams. If stripes are unevenly spaced you must place front and back patterns in the same direction on the fabric, so that the stripe arrangement wil l be the same both front and back. These d irections apply also to some fabrics which have a striped texture such as wide wale corduroy.
Pattern layout for directional plaid or checked fabrics
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In Figs. 19 and 20 the material features an even vertical and/or horizontal stripe. The vertical centerline and crotch line (and consequently the knee location line and the hemline) of the front pattern are placed on correspond ing areas of the stripes as are the vertical centerl ine and crotch line (knee location line and heml ine) of the back pattern. In this way, the horizontal stri pes wi ll match at the seams, and the vertical stripes will meet to form a chevron or vee at the side seams.
23 Fig. 21 shows how the front and back patterns may be placed when the fabric does not feature a oneway design or nap. Vertical centerlines must be p laced parallel to the selvage edges. Note that the back crotch may be cut separately, as shown , when the fabric is not quite wide enough to cut full front and full back patterns.
Pattern layout for non directional fabrics
Marking and outlining the pattern Once the pattern pieces are pinned or secured in place (Fig. 22) on the fabric , measure and mark the seam allowances on the fabric with soft tailor's chalk or sharpened chalk. Mark 5/s" ( 1.5 em) seam allowance to all seams unless otherwise specified. Widen the center back allowance to 11/2" ( 4 em) at the waist and the back inseam to 11/2" (4 em) at the crotch. Th is addition allows for alteration in case of weight gain. We also suggest adding 314'' (2.5 em) seam allowance on the side seams as a precautionary measure. These seam allowances may be trimmed down after fitting , if unnecessary. Hem allowance is usually 2" (5 em). Just before cutting out the pants. trace around the pattern pieces marking the seam lines and darts with chalk on the top layer of the fabric. Mark notches and any other construction lines you feel may help you to sew up the pants.
Cutting the fabric
Fig. 21
To cut the fabric use sharp straight sheers (never pinking sheers) . Cut with long even strokes on seam allowance lines. (Refer to Chart II on Page 55 to check whether special cutti ng techniques are required for the different fabrics.) Once the pants are cut out, remove the pattern pieces from the pant sections. Reverse the two layers of each section so that the wrong sides are together and pat along the seam lines and darts to transfer chalk markings to the second layer.
24 Seam allowances
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Fig. 22
The construction of slacks can be as simple or as complex as you desire. A pair of slacks with no closing and an elastic waist can be sewn together in a matter of minutes. A tailored pair of pants with a fly front and welt pockets will take considerably longer to make. But regardless of the complexity of the style and the time involved in sewing your pants together, certain procedures must be followed if your pants are going to look and fit well on you. The sewing techniques involved in constructing slacks are just as important as the drafting, cutting, and layout procedures previously discussed. The following section covers the proper procedures for sewing the basic slacks together. The remaining sections in this chapter consist of detailed instructions on the drafting and sewing procedures for the different features which may be added to the slacks to vary the style and give the slacks a more professional finish . These features include closings, pockets , waist finishes , and leg finishes.
Sewing, pressing, fitting the basic slacks After the pants have been cut out, the edges of the pant sections must be zig-zagged or pinked if the material has a tendency to fray. Since seam lines and darts are indicated with chalk markings right on the fabric , it is easy to sew the pants together. First, sew in the waist darts directing the stitching from the waist straight down to the point of the darts. To help you sew the darts smoothly, place the straight
edge of a piece of thin cardboard along the dart line and stitch along the edge of the cardboard. It is important to get a good point to your dart for a smooth fit in your finished garment. Next, sew the front and back inseams and side seams of the left and right pant sections together, stitching from the bottom of the pants up to the crotch or waist, matching the notches. Baste these seams before stitching to prevent one layer from slipping on the other. Stretch the back inseam above the knee slightly to match the front inseam from knee to crotch. The last seam to be sewn in the pants is the crotch seam which is stitched from the center front waist around to the center back waist. Baste this seam first with the left leg turned inside out and placed inside the right leg to keep the material out of the way while stitching . Stretch the back crotch seam while stitching to give the pants a more comfortable shape. When you join ·the left and right sections together with a continuous crotch seam, the pants will have a smoother appearance and fit. It is wise to sew the crotch twice to reinforce this seam as it is subject to a good deal of stress and strain during normal wearing . Press the right and left pant sections rig ht after the inseams and side seams have been sewn. Open the seam allowances and press them out flat , using a piece of board which is placed inside the pant leg between the two layers to prevent pressing the bottom layer. Since different fabrics require different pressing techniques, refer to Chart II on page 55 to check for special instructions on pressing your fabric.
26 When the seams and darts have been sewn and pressed, the pants should be tried on to check the fit. Sew the side seam all the way up to the waist and press open. Then open the left side seam from the waist down about 7" to 9" (18 to 23 em) for the closing. You may find that you will need to make minor adjustments to perfect the fit of your pants. For example, the curve of the side seams over the hip area may need altering to better suit your shape. You may want to take in the back inseam to fit the pants tightly in the th igh area. Do not over-fit your pants! If you do, you will find that there is too little ease left for sitting, bending , and walking with comfort. If you do find there is a major fitting problem, refer back to page 8 for the solution. Once the crotch seam has been sewn and the pants have been fitted , press the crease line for the front and back pant legs by placing the inseam and side seam of each pant leg directly on top of one another and pressing from the center of the leg out towards the folded edge. S_ee Fig . 23. Then pockets may be added. At this stage a zipper or another type of c losing is sewn into the side, center front, or center back. Finally the waistband or facing and the pant hems are sewn.
Fig. 23
Lining If possible, pants should be left unlined. However, a see-through material may require a lining. In this case, preshrink the lining before cutting. Then either sew the lining to the fabric sections and handle them as one material for the construction of the pants, or sew up the lining separately and attach it to the pants at the waistline only. When the lining is separate, the pressing of the pants is easier than when the lining is sewn to the pant sections. Since it is attached only at the waistline, the lining may be pulled inside out and pressed separately from the pants. The method of lining used will depend on the style, the material , and the effect you want the lining to give to the finished garment.
Zipper closings The zipper closing is the most practical closing for pants and is the most widely used type of closing today. There are several ways of applying a zipper: fly front, lap method , center application, and invisible type. Since the instructions for the last two types are g iven right on the zipper packages, we will concentrate mainly on the first two methods of zip per closings mentioned.
Fly front zipper Insert the fly front zipper in the center front seam before the crotch seam is sewn. In most
27 cases place the zipper on the straight part of the center front seam. If you need a longer opening, extend the zipper slightly into the curve of the crotch as shown in the illustrations. You may find that you have to shorten the zipper. Do this, after the zipper has been sewn into the waist seam , by cutting· off the unnecessary amount from the top of the zipper. Then , trim any excess that may extend more than 3 /a" ( 1 em) into the waistband or waist facing.
The first step in constructing the fly front is to trim the center front seam allowances down to 1 /2'' (1.3 em). With edges even, place the closed zipper face down on the left front section of the pants just below the waist seamline. Baste it in place (Fig. 24-1 ). Aligning the straight edge of the facing with the edges of the zipper tape and the pant section, place the fly facing on top of the zipper. Baste. Stitch through all three thicknesses 114'' (.7 em) (Fig . 25-1). Mark the end of the zipper with a 114'' (.7 em) incision, as illustrated in Fig. 29-2.
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 24
Fig. 25
Two strips of the pant material are required tor facings . The general shape of these facings is shown in Fi g. 25, ending in a blunt point about 1/2" (1.3 em) below the end of the zipper. The suggested width is 2" (5 em).
Turn the facing and zipper over so that the right sides face up (Fig. 26-1 ). Roll the pant material towards the teeth of the zipper (Fig. 26-2). Baste the rolled edge in place c lose to the zipper teeth (Fig. 26-3).
28
RIGHT SIDE
the curved edges. Stitch (Fig. 26-5). Fold the lining over to the wrong side, rolling the seam slightly to the back and baste along the fold (Fig. 27 -3). Press. Fold the straight edge of the lining under so that it will hide all raw edges and the zipper tape (Fig. 27-1). Baste it in place. (NOTE: (Fig. 27 shows seam 5 (Fig . 26) unsewn at the top to give you an inside view of how the seam allowances have been pressed.)
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 26
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Cut a piece of lining on the bias the shape of the fly facings but slightly larger and with the extension as shown (Fig. 26-4). Baste the lining to the right side of the fly extension along
Fig. 28
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 27
Turn the work to the right side and, using the zipper foot, topstitch close to the basted fold of the material (Fig. 26-2) through all thicknesses. This row of stitching will catch the folded edge of the lining in place underneath 2 (Fig . 27). Press. Zig zag the curved edge of the second facing piece at 1 (Fig. 28). With the right sides together, sew this facing to the right front of the slacks 3 / a" ( 1 em) in from the center front edge (Fig . 28-2). Fold the facing to the inside, rolling the seam under slightly so it is hidden. Press. Baste along the fold at 1 (Fig . 29). Close the zipper. Place the right front overlapping the left front, (with the waist seam matching at the top) so that the stitching line (Fig. 31-1) on the left section is hidden. Baste together at 2 (Fig. 31). Press.
29 Keeping the material as fl at as possible, baste the right zipper tape to the right fac ing only. Stitch once close to the edge of the zipper tape and again closer to the zipper teeth (Fig. 30-1 and 2). With the right side up , chalk a line an even distance from the fi nished opening (about 1114''- 11/2") (3 .2-3 .8 em) curving in to a point just below the end of the zipper (Fig . 31-3). Baste along this line through the slacks and the facing making sure that the facing lies smoothly and flat and does not shift. Remove the basting which holds the right and left slacks together down the center front.
WRONG SIDE
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sewing. Sew the seam line twice for reinforcement. Reinforce the opening at the bottom of the zipper by stitching back and forth several times (Fig. 31-5) through all th icknesses. Open out the seam allowance of the crotch seam and sew the extension of the lining to the edges of the seam allowances for additional reinforcement as shown in Fig . 30-3.
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Undo the zipper and stitch on the chalk line down to the point where the chalk line starts to curve (Fig. 31-4). Stop stitching with the machine needle down. Do up the zipper. Fold the left facing back out of the way of the stitching . Stitch around the curve to the bottom of the opening . Since the crotch seam is on the bias and needs a certain amount of give, sew from the bottom of the zipper on the crotch seam for 2" or 3" (5-7.5 em) by hand using a back-stitch. Sew the back part of the crotch seam by machine stretching the fabric slightly while
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30 Side zipper A zipper may be placed in the left side seam using the lap method of application. The zipper opening should be from 7" to 9" (18-23 em) in length depending on your taste, and on your size and shape. The greater the difference between the waist and the hip measurements, the larger the opening required. First, locate the point on the side seam where the zipper will end. Sew the side seam from the hem up to this point. Place the zipper face down , centered on the side seam line of the left back slacks (right side facing up) . Baste it in place. Stitch at 1 (Fig . 32). Turn the zipper over so that its right side faces up and roll the edge of the pant fabric almost to the edge of the zipper teeth as seen in Fig . 33. Baste in place. From the right side stitch along the fold using the zipper foot (Fig. 32-2 and Fig. 33-2).
hide the stitching line (Fig. 33-2) on the back section. Baste the zipper to the front section through the seam allowance and slacks. With the right side up , sew through the front section and the zipper tape close to the zipper teeth (Figs. 32-5 and 33-5). This stitching line should be parallel to the folded side edge. Stop the stitching at the end of the zipper. Turn the work and stitch the zipper tape to the facing only (Fi g. 32-6). Remove the basting holding the front and back sections together.
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Fold the side seam allowance of the front of the slacks under along the seam line and press (Fig . 32-3). Baste the front and the back together (Fig. 33-4), lapping front over back to
Cut a strip of the pant fabric for a facing (Fig. 33-1 0) slightly longer than the zipper and no less than 11/4" (3.2 em) wide. If possible, cut one edge of the strip from the selvage. Zig zag the raw edges of the strip (Fig . 32-7). Then, zig zag the facing strip to the back side seam allowance (Fig. 32-8) . Reinforce the end of the opening from the right side by sewing back and forth several times through all thicknesses just below the end of the zipper (Fi gs. 32-9 and 33-9). The bottom facing must be lying flat so that it is caught in this stitching , too.
31
Additional types of closing Although the zipper is one of the most functional types of closings, it is certainly not the only type which can be considered. Buttons and buttonholes, loops and buttons, and even lacing may be used for closings to add variety and decoration to the pants. The last two methods requi re lengths of cord which are often made of the pant fabric . This cord can be made in two ways. Both methods require you to cut bias strips of the pant fabric about 1" to 1 1/2" (2 .5- 3.8 em) wide depending on the bulk of the fabric and the desired finished width. You will have to experiment a bit to find the width your fabric requires. The total length of the bias strips is the length of cord required. Fold the strip in .half lengthwise. Measure from the fold approximately 1 3 of the width of the folded strip and mark off this distance at intervals along the length of the strip. These markings indicate the stitching line. Place a piece of strong, thin string down the center of the strip between the two layers so that the ends of the string extend beyond the length of the strip. With a zipper foot , stitch through both layers of the strip on the 1/3 stitching line, but do not stitch through the string (Fig. 34-1 ).
Then, stitch across one end of the strip, catching the string in the stitching (Fig . 34-2) . To turn the strip right side out, cut off the corner of the seam allowances (Fig . 34-3) . Hold the free end of the string (Fig. 35- 1) in one hand and draw the fabric in the opposite direction over the sewn end of the string (Fig . 35-2). When the strip is turned , cut the string off where it has been sewn to the strip. The cord may be made without the use of the string. With the stri p folded in half lengthwise, stitch down the length of the strip at 1 / 3 of the width from the folded edge. Leave seam allowances at 2 / 3 of the folded width to give the cord shape. To turn the strip to form the cord, hook a hairpin or a thin strip of wire through one end of the fabric. Feed the hairpin through. the inside of the strip between the stitching line and the fold , constantly drawing the wrinkles away from the pin until the strip has been completely turned to form the cord . When the cord is to be made from stretch fabric, cut the strip on the lengthwise grain. Before turning the strip, trim the seam allowance down to half the width of the folded strip. There wi ll then be enough stretch in the crosswise direction to give the cord flexibility so that it may be used for loops or lacing.
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32 Loops and buttons
For a series of evenly spaced loops, you will want to be sure that the loops are spaced uniformly and are of equal size. There are two ways of doing this accurately. First, decide on the size of button since the size of the loop depends entirely on the size of the button. If the loops are spaced apart, cut each loop singly. Cut the length of each loop from the cord to be used as follows: Measure twice the diameter of the button plus 1/2" (1.3 em); or, experiment with the cord until you find the correct length for the size of loop your buttons require. Then add 1/2" (1.3 em) to this length - 114'' (. 7 em) at each end of the loop is to extend into the seam allowance of the closing edge. Cut one length of cord as determined above for each loop . Then measure along the closing seam line, where the loops are to be placed, and mark off with chalk the desired position of both sides of each loop. Tape or baste both ends of the cords in place to form the loops, as dictated by the chalk markings. Separately spaced loops are illustrated on page 50.
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0 Fig. 36 You can rule a sheet of paper as a pattern for the position of the loops (Fig. 36). This ruling is especially useful if the loops are con-
tinuous. The length of the paper should equal the length of the opening . Draw one vertical line 5 /a" (1.5 em) from the straight edge of the paper for the seamline. Draw a second vertical line the width of the loop from the first vertical line. Draw equally spaced horizontal lines to indicate the desired width for each loop. Allow for the width of the cord. One length of the cord may be cut long enough to do several loops. Remember to allow for the sections of the loop which wil l extend into the seam allowance. Secure the loops in place by taping or basting to the paper before stitching along the seam line to the edge of the closing. After the loops have been stitched in place, tear the paper along the stitching line and remove. Apply the facing to hide the ends of the loops and to protect the raw edge of the closing.
Lacing For a laced closing, the eyelets are easily applied with an awl and grommets. Attach strips of firm interfacing to the facings on each side of the closing for reinforcement before applying the grommets. After the eyelets have been made, sew an_additional strip of the pant fabric to the facing on one side of the closing and extending across the opening to the edge of the other facing. This step is desirable since a laced opening has a tendency to gape open with even a slight amount of movement or strain. Then lace a length of cord through the eyelets to hold the edges of the closing together. The laced closing is illustrated in Fig . 78, page 50.
Button fly
The button fly is constructed in much the same way as the zipper fly closing. Two strips of pant fabric are required for facings . The shape of these facings is shown in Fig. 37, ending in a blunt point about 1/2" (1.3 em) below the end of the opening. The suggested width is 2" (5 em). A bias strip of lining the shape of the fly facings but slightly wider and with the extension shown in Fig. 38 is also required .
33 Baste one strip of facing along the center front seam of the left pant section. Stitch 5 /a" (1.5 em) from the edge (Fig . 37-1) . Press the seam flat , opening out the seam allowances as seen in Fig . 39-1 . The facing now forms an extension to the center front seam (Fig. 38-1) . Face this extension with the bias strip of lining by stitching it to the right side of the extension along the curved edge (Fig. 38-2).
RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 37
3 WRONG SIDE
First, measure down from the waistline seam of the pants, the desired length of the opening and mark with a 1/2'' (1.3 em) incision which can be seen in Fig. 41-2.
Fig. 39
Fig. 38
Bring the lining around to the back of the work, rolling the seam (Fig. 38-2) slightly under so that it is invisible from the front and baste in place along the fold (Fig. 39-2). Fold the straight edge of the lining under (Fig . 39-3) so that it hides the seam allowance (Fig. 39-1) which can be trimmed if req uired. Baste in place. Turn the work to the right side and stitch 1/a" (.3 em) from the seam (Fig. 38-3). This row of stitching should catch the folded edge of the lining in place underneath (Fig . 39-4). Press. Zig zag the curved edge of the second facing strip (Fig. 40-1 ). With right sides together, sew this facing to right front slacks 1/2"(1.3 em) from the center front edge (Fig . 40-2).
34
RIGHT SIDE
Fold the facing to the inside rolling the seam under slightly so that it is hidden. Press . Baste along the fold . Stitch the facing in place with a stitch ing line (Fig. 41-3).
G
RIGHT SIDE
G
81 I I
Fig. 40
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Fig. 42
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RIGHT SIDE
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Fig. 41
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The position of the buttonholes wil l depend on the size of the buttons. The buttonholes should be at least half the diameter of the button plus 1/4" (.7 em) from the edge (Fig . 41-1 ). The width of the buttonhole should be equal to the diameter of the button plus the thickness of the button, approximately 1/a" (.3 em) . The distance between buttonholes is up to the individual. On the diagram they are spaced twice the diameter of the button apart.
35 When the fly is buttoned , the edge of the buttonhole side should hide the row of stitching on the button side. The measurement 1 (Fig . 41 ) should be equal to, or slightly more than, the measurement 1 (Fig. 42).
Invisible button fly
For the invisible button closing , construct a separate section of two strips of fac ing as in Fig. 43. With the right sides together, stitch the two layers of facing together along the center front edge. Reverse the layers so that the right sides face out, and fold along the center front stitching line. Edgestitch (Fig. 43-1 ). Zig zag the curved edges together (Fig. 43-2). Place the buttonholes as described above. Face the right front of the pants with lining as in Fig . 40. Fold the facing to the back and baste along the fold . Baste the buttonhole section to the pants so that it is invisible from · the front as shown on Fig. 44. Stitch to the pants along the curved edge (Fig. 44- 1). Tack along the center front at intervals (Fig . 44-2) so that a finger may be slipped between the buttonhole section and the front of the pants to do up the buttons. Since the crotch seam is on the bias and needs a certain amount of give, sew from the bottom of the opening .on the crotch seam for 2" or 3" (5 -7.5 em) by hand , using a backstitch. Sew the back part of the crotch seam by machine, stretching the fabric slightly while sewing. Sew the seam line twice for reinforcement. Open out the seam allowance of the crotch seam and sew the extension of the lining to the edges of the seam allowances as shown on page 29 (Fig. 30-3) for additional reinforcement.
Fig. 43
111111111
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 44
36 Pockets
WRONG SIDE
Four common pocket styles found on pants are: Patch Pocket, Pocket with Bound Opening, Side Seam Pocket, and Western Style Pocket.
Patch pocket The patch pocket is easy to sew. You can make it in a variety of shapes and sizes. First decide on the shape and size you desire. It may be helpful to draw the pocket right on your slack pattern so you will get an idea of the fin ished effect. The pocket pieces required for the two patch pockets A and B (Fig . 49) are shown with seam allowances in Figs. 45 to 4 7.
2
.------.-,
t
Fig. 46
the pocket opening (4). Baste in place. Edge stitch the folded hem edge to the lining (5). On the pocket with the diagonal opening, baste a length of non-bias tape to the edge of the lining, and fold line (4) of the pocket. Bring , the right side of the pocket to the lining , folding along the dotted fold line (4) across the pocket opening. If the lining material will not shrink with steam pressing, baste the pocket to the lining in such a way that the edge of the lining extends about 1/a" (.3 em) beyond the side and bottom edges of the pocket section. The material of the pocket will be slack with bubbles but when turned right side out, these bubbles will disappear and the seam line will fall to the inside of the pocket so it is hidden from the right side (8). (See Fig. 48).
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Fig. 45
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Cut the lower piece (1) from pant fabric and the upper section (2) from lining or preferably cotton which will shrink slightly when steam pressed. The outside solid lines represent the cutting lines, the inside solid lines represent the stitching lines. Add about 11/2" (3.8 em) to the opening edge of the pocket for hem allowance or facing. Cut the pocket lining the exact size of the pocket section without the hem allowance. Turn the seam allowance of the hem edge under and press as shown (3). Place the straight edge of the lining (2) on the dotted fold line which will be the edge of
6
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Fig. 47 If the lining can be shrunk, baste the pocket to the lining right along the seam line. Stitch along the seam line (6) leaving approximately 2" (5 em) unsewn (7). Turn the pocket through the opening (7). If cotton fabric has been used for the pocket lining, roll the seam to the back
37 of the pocket (8) , and baste in place. With a steam iron shrink out the excess in the lining. Press the pocket. Hand stitch the unsewn portion of the seam (7) together with an invisible stitch. 9
I
8
I Fig. 48
Stitch across the opening edge of the pocket (9) 1 /a" - 114'' (.3-. 7 em) from the edge. If desired a second row of stitching may be sewn on the stitching line (5) through all pocket thicknesses to keep the opening firm and neat (1 0). The final step involves the application of the pocket to the pants. Baste the pocket in the desired position on the pant section. Stitch 1/a" to 114'' (.3-. 7 em) in from one side of the opening around the pocket edge to the other side of the opening ( 11 ). Reinforce the edges of the opening as shown (12). To add strength to this reinforcement, place small squares of cotton inside the pants under the pocket corners before stitching (12).
A
Fig. 49
Pocket with bound (double welt) opening The pocket with bound opening is often found on tailored pants to give the pocket opening a neat clean finish. This type of pocket is difficult to make. It may be wise to practise on a sample.
First decide on the width of the pocket opening. Make it at least 5" (13 em) so that your hand can pass through without putting undue strain on the fabric. Mark on your pants the exact position and length of the opening desired with a row of small basting stitches in contrasting th read. (Mark each end of th is line
38 with a row of basting). Decide on the depth of the pocket desired. Measure from 1/2" (1 .3 em) above the waistline vertically down to the opening. Add this measurement to the desired depth plus seam allowance, and cut two lining pieces using this distance for their length. The width used should be 2" (5 em) wider than the opening. Place one lining piece on the wrong side of the pants centered over the proposed opening and extending 1/2" (1.3 em) above the waistline (Fig. 50-1). Baste in place. The 1/2" (1.3 em) exten sion above the waistline of the pants permits you to secure the pocket at the waistline between the waistband and its facing .
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RIGHT SIDE
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the seam allowance of the strip back (Fig. 51-1). With the right side facing up , cut through the lining and the pants between stitching lines and out to the corners as indicated (Fig. 51 -2). To form the piping, press the button strip and the seam allowance upward along the seam line . Fold this strip over its seam allowance and tuck down through the opening to the inside. Baste through all 3 thicknesses of the strip fabric to hold the bottom piping in place. Follow the same procedure for the top strip (Fig. 52-1). Edges which have been cut will automatically be folded back (Fig. 52-2) .
Cut two strips of the pant fabric for the piping 11/2" (3.8 em) longer than the opening and about 21/2" to 3" (6.3-7. 5 em) wide. If possible cut one side from the selvage. With right sides together, place one strip above the opening with its bottom edge resting along the opening line. Place the other strip below the opening with its top edge along this line. Center the strips so that 3/4'' (2 em) extends beyond each end of the opening. Baste in place. Mark each end of the opening on the strips (Fig. 50-2). Stitch th rough the strip, the pant, and the lining fabrics about 114'' to 3 /a" (. 7 to 1 em) from the opening line, starting and stopping exactly at each end of the opening (Fig. 50-3) . Backstitch at each end of the row to reinforce the stitching at these points. Press
Fig.
--- - -- ---- -- --- - --·
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WRONG SIDE
Fig. 52
39 With the right side up, stitch exactly in the bottom seam line of the welt to secure the bottom strip in place (Fig . 52-3). Do not sew on the top welt seam. Then, fold back the slack and lining fabrics across the end of the opening to reveal the triangular point and the ends of the folded strips (Fig. 53-1). Adjust the ends so th at they lie smoothly in neat folds and stitch the triangle to the folds right across the end of the opening from the end of the top row of stitching to the end of the bottom row of stitching (Fig. 53-2) . Reinforce several times. Repeat for the other end of the opening .
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WRONG SIDE
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RIGHT SIDE
Baste the edges of the two lining pieces together. Stitch on the seam 1ine (Fig. 54-3) and then zig zag the edges together (Fig. 54-4). With the right side up, fold back the pant fabric along the top edge of the welt. Baste through the pocket layers just above the welt seam. Fold back the pant material at one end of the opening. Reinforce this end by stitching back and forth through all remaining thicknesses (Fig. 54-5) .
.__ Fig. 53
Baste the edges of the welt opening together (Fig. 53-3). Press. Turn so that the wrong side faces up. If the lower edge of the bottom strip is not a selvage edge, zig zag the edge or press the raw edge under. Baste this edge to the lining only, so that the pocket lies smooth and flat. Stitch in place close to the edge of the strip (Fi g. 52-4 ). Cut another strip of pant fabric 21/2" to 3" (6.3 to 7.5 em) long and as wide as the width of the opening plus 2" (5 em). Place this strip on the second lining piece right across the opening so that, when the pocket is opened, the pant fabric is exposed (Fig. 54-1) . If the lower edge of the strip is not a selvage, finish it by zig zagging or pressing under. Stitch the strip in place to the lining (Fig. 54-2).
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RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 55
40 Then fold back the slack fabric across the top and stitch through all remaining layers as close to the seam as possible (Fig. 54-6). Then reinforce the other end .
pocket pattern first on the front pant pattern according to the following guide lines. The folded edge of the pocket( _.-· line) hangs straight down in the finished garment and should not lie closer to the center front of the pants than 2"-3" (5-7.5 em) . This is especially important when a fly front opening is used. The pocket should extend 1/2" (1.3 em) above the waist of the pants. The suggested size is about 10" (25 em) long , as measured from 1/2" ( 1.3 em) above the waist, with a 5" ( 13 em) opening starting 2" (5 em) below the side waist. The pocket follows the hip curve down to a point 1" (2.5 em) below the end of the opening , then straight in to the side seam line of the pants (Fig. 57-1). From this point it curves down and across the bottom to the fold li~e as shown in Figs. 57 and 58.
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Fig. 56
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Draw the pattern for this type of pocket on the pant pattern to get the general size and shape. Cut the pocket in one piece and fold it in half down the center fold line (marked -·-· on Figs. 57 and 58). Since the sides of the pocket are symmetrical , draw only half the
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Side seam pocket
1
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Reinforce the ends of the opening from the right side by stitching through all thicknesses (Fig. 55-1 ), back-stitching to reinforce securely. This stitching should be the exact width of the opening only. Fig. 56 shows the appearance of the finished pocket opening. If a flap is desired with this pocket, it may be inserted between the two lining sections before row 6 (Fig . 54) is sewn. The flap section must be made to fit the opening exactly. The fac ing for the flap must be made smaller than the flap so that the seam will not show around the flap edge (see the patch pocket lining instructions, page 36) .
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Fig. 57
Face both edges of the opening with pant fabric. Draw the pattern for the facings on the pocket pattern. One side of the facing fol lows the same hip curve as the pocket and the pants, beginning 1" (2.5 em) above the opening and ending 1" (2.5 em) below. The width of the facing should be about 2" (5 em) at the top increasing to about 3" (7.5 em) at the bottom. Draw the inside edge straight. If
41
possible, cut this edge from the selvage so that it won 't need finishing. To cut the facings, fold the fabric double with the right sides together so that you will have a right and left facing . Cut the pocket from firm cotton or lining material with the center line (- . - .) placed along the fold of the fabric. Sew the facings to the pocket as shown in Figs. 57 and 58. Press all raw edges of the facing under, 114'' (. 7 em), except the side seam edge. Stitch this edge to the pocket (Figs. 57-2 and 58-2) .
---
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Fig. 59
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Fig. 58 With the right sides together, match the side seam of the pocket to the pants (with the top of the pocket 1/2" ( 1.3 em) above the waist of the pants). Baste in place. Clip the seam allowances to the seam line at the top and the bottom of the opening (Fig. 57-3) . Stitch between clips along the side seam line (Fig. 57-4) . Fold the pocket around to the wrong side of the pants along the seam line (Fig . 57-4) of the pocket opening and press (Fig . 58-5) . Topstitch 114'' (.7 em) from the fold (Fig . 58-6). Zig Zag the edges of the pocket and the pants together above and below the opening (Fig . 58-7). Zig zag the opposite facing and the pocket edges together (Fig. 58-8). Fold the pocket in half along the center fold line (_._ .). Pin and stitch around the edge of the pocket from the bottom of the facing to the
center fold (Fig. 59-9). Zig zag this area. Secure the· bottom pocket layer to the side seam of the pants with zig zag stitch just below the pocket opening (Figs. 58-7 and 59-1 0). Baste the pocket to the pants across the top. Pin the front and back side seams together and stitch (Fig. 60-11 ). Sew this seam with great care as the stitching must catch the bottom and top corners, but not the folded edge of the opening . Therefore, when stitching the side seam across the opening, pull the top layer of the pocket slightly away from the needle.
WRONG SIDE
Fig. 60
42 Press the side seam open (Fig. 61- 12).
WRONG SIDE
12
Fig. 61
With the right side up, stitch back and forth across the side seam at the bottom and top of the opening (Fig. 62-13) for reinforcement.
Western Style Pocket The procedure involved in making this style of pocket is much the same as that used lor the side seam pocket. The general shape of the pocket is the same except that the opening is curved and diagonal rather than straight and vertical. Draw the desired shape of the opening on the slack pattern . As a guideline, start the opening 3" to 4" (7 .5-10 em) over from the side waist and curve down to a point about 5" ( 12.5 em) below the waist on the side seam. Fig. 63 shows the shape of the pocket opening . Cut the main front section of the pants along the curved opening line (1 ). Cut the side waist section of the pants separately and extend it about 2 1/2" (6.3 em) into the pocket. Cut oo the dotted line (2) . Cut the pocket to extend 1/2" (1.3 em) above the waistline and 8" to 9" (20-22.5 em) below. Cut one side of the pocket on the curved opening line. The other side follows the hip cu rve of the side seam. Sew the side waist section of the pants to the latter side of the pocket so that , when the pocket is finished , this waist section of the pants will show above the curved opening. In addition to the pocket and pant sections, a facing of the pant fabric (for the curved opening edge) is required . The facing should not interfere with the center fold line of the pocket. Therefore draw the facing about 2 1/2" (6.3 em) wide. Zig zag the longest edge of the facing (Fig. 64-1 ).
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RIGHT SIDE
Fig. 62
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Fig. 63
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RIGHT SIDE
43
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-- - --Fig. 66 Fig. 64
Place the pocket on the wrong side of the pants, matching the curved opening lines with a 1/2" (1.3 em) margin of pocket showing above the wc;~istline of the pants (Fig. 64-2). With the right sides together, place the curved facing on the pant opening (Fig . 64-3). Pin it in place. To prevent the opening from stretching, place a strip of non-bias tape along the cu rved seam line (Fig. 64-4). Baste through the four thicknesses and stitch along the seam line (Fig. 64-5). Press the facing up towards the seam allowance and edgestitch. Turn the facing to the inside and press so that seam (5) lies slightly to the inside. Topstitch 1/4'' (. 7 em) from the edge of the opening (Fig. 65-1 ).
Stitch the facing in place to the pocket (Fig . 65-2). Zig zag the curved edge of the side waist section of the pants (Fig. 65-3) . With the wrong side of the pants facing you, place the side front section, right side up, on the pocket 1 /2'' (1.3 em) below the top edge, matching the side edges. Zig zag together (Fig. 65-4). Sew the curved edge0f the side pant section to the pocket (Fig. 65-5). Fold the pocket sectipn on the center fold line (Fig. 66-1 ). Stitch and zig zag the edges of the pocket together from the bottom of the opening down and around to the fold (Fig . 66-2). Baste the pocket to the waistline (Fig. 66-3) and to the side seam (Fig. 66-4). From
WRONG SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
1
\ ' .....
Fig. 65
I
-.-.---_I
Fig. 67
44 the right side, stitch across the topstitch ing lines to secure the opening to the pants as shown (Fig. 67-1) .
Waist finishes The waist area of the pants may be finished in various ways. It may or may not have a waistband . If it does, the band may be wide or narrow. If not elasticized, it may simply be faced, or feature a yoke, or it may even be cut down below the waistline to hug the hips. All of these waist finishes are discussed in detail below. Waistbands The standard narrow waistband has a finished width of approximately 1" (2.5 em), but it may be slightly wider if desired. If the pants are to be worn with a narrow belt, measure the width of the belt and draft the width of the waistband accordingly. Usually, add about 11/2" (4 em) for overlap to the waist measurement to give the finished length of the band. Seam the band at the center back to allow for alteration in case of weight loss or gain. Therefore, leave the center back seam of the pants unsewn for 3" (7.5 em) below the waist. Draw the pattern for the waistband in two sections. The dimensions of the sections will depend on whether a
side or center front closing is used. For the center closing, draw one band section one half the waist measurement plus the overlap in length and draw the other section only one half the waist measurement, unless you have sewn a facing underneath the zip per. (See the side zipper Fig 33-1 0.) When th is facing is used the second waistband section must include the width of the facing as well. For side closing, draw one section of the waistband equal to 1/ 4 of the waist plus the width of the zipper facing . (See the side zipper Fig. 33-1 0.) Draw the second section equal to 3 / 4 of the waist measurement plus the overlap. The width of these sections is equal to the proposed width of the band. Mark off the overlap and the facing width on the waistband patt.erns and mark the remaining portion at intervals of 1 / 4 of the waist. These markings are to match the sid e and center-front seams of the pants to help you ·attach the band smoothly and evenly. Add 3 /a" (1 em) seam allowance to all seams except the center back; add 11/2" (4 em) seam allowance there. Cut each section twice - once in the pant fabric and once in the lining. Transfer the markings. To g ive the waistband a fi rmer, more permanent shape, use an interlining of stiff interfacing fabric or gross §!rain ribbon. Cut strips of interlining to the exact length and width that
Fig. 68 2
1
WRONG SIDE
3
to-1
I
45 the finished band sections are to measure. Extend the interlining about 1" (2.5 em) into the center back seam allowance (Fig. 68) . Place the interlining on the fabric sections so that there is a 3 /a" ( 1 em) margin of fabric showing all around these strips. Baste it in place. With the center back seam of the pants and the band left open. sew each band section to the corresponding section of pants as follows: Match the 1 / 4 waist and overlap markings to the corresponding pant seams. Pin the waistband to the waistline. Stitch on the seamline ( 1). Do not catch the interlining in the stitching. Trim the waistline seam allowance to 3/a" (1 em) . Press the band up. Fold the remaining seam allowances of the band over the edge of the interlining (2) , treating the center back seam allowance of the pants as shown in (3). Press. Also, press under the seam allowances on the lining sections (4). Place the lining on the band so that the top edge is 1/a" (.3 em) below the top of the band (5) . Baste in place. Topstitch along the edge of the lining through all thicknesses (6). Baste the bottom edge of the lining in place to the band. With the right side up, stitch on the bottom edge of the band through all thicknesses. Make sure this stitching line secures the bottom of the lining in place (7). Adjust the seam allowances on the bottom and on the end (8) of the lining ·on the overlap section so that they are not visible from the front. Sew down the ends (8) and (9) of the lining to the band by hand. Sew the center back seams of the pants and the band together in one continuous seam ( 10) after you have completed the band . The wider waistband may be preferred. Decide on the width of the band . Draft one band section as shown in Fig. 69. AC is the width of the band . CD is 1/ 4 of the waist measurement. AB is 1/ 4 of the measurement around the body where the top of the band will lie.
A
8
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D
Fig. 69
Add 1" for overlap. Sew pelon or a stiffer fabric to the band to prevent buckling and wrinkling. The method for sewing this band is similar to the method described above. Fasten the waistband with buttons and buttonholes , (handworked or machine made), pant hooks, hooks and eyes, loops and buttons , or lacing.
Waist Facing Instead of adding a waistband to the slacks, you may face the waistline. Draw the pattern for the facing right on the front and back patterns of the slacks (Figs. 4 and 5) . Draw the facing lines parallel to the waist lines (9 - 14) and (9a-14) about 2 1/2" (6.3 em) below. This 2 1/2" 6.3 em) section is used for the waist facing and should be traced on to a separate sheet of paper. Be sure also to trace the dart sections which can be folded out on the pattern to eliminate extra bulk in the actual facing. If th~ pants have a side opening, cut the front facing with the center front on the fold of the fabric . Leave the center back seam open until the facing has been sewn to the waistline; then sew in a continuous seam with the center back of the pants to allow for alteration. To prevent the waistline from stretching out of shape, sew non-bias tape in the waistline seam when you attach the facing .
Elastic Waist Since tunic tops or overblouses are a popular accompaniment to pants, an elastic waist is often used for comfort. The elastic may be inserted in a waistband or in a waistline which is faced . With a non-stretch fabric, make the waist equal to the hip measurement unless an opening (zipper or button) is used. When an opening is used draft the waistline 1/ 4 of the waist plus 314'' (2 em) for dart allowance on the front and back patterns . This procedure also applies for the elastic waist in a stretch fabric where no closing is featured . The darts are not sewn in but left unsewn for ease in pulling the pant waist over the hips. (Refer to the shorts pattern with elastic waist on page 17.)
46
The width of elastic used depends on the individual's taste, usual ly 112" /1" (1.3-2.5 em). Casing may be added directly to the top of the front and back pattern pieces, or it may be cut separately, the size of the elastic in width and the waist measurement in length. When sewing the casing to the waistline remember to leave a 2" (5 em) opening for insertion of the elastic. The length of the elastic should be measured by placing it around the waist at the desired degree of expansion. The elastic waistline is especial ly popular in children's clothes as the difference between their waist and hip measurements is usually small. The procedure is the same as for adults.
Waist Yoke (Fig. 70) Slacks with a waist yoke are easily designed . Draw the desired yoke line directly on the slack pattern. Separate the slacks from the yoke. The dart sections may be folded in on the yoke pattern only, provided that the yoke line does not lie below the end of the darts. When dart sections are folded in, the waist and yoke lines wi ll not have a smooth cu rve, but wi ll have to be red rawn before the pattern can be cut out. Add the seam allowances as shown. Face the waist yoke either with slack fabric or lining. It may be interlined for better shape retention .
BACK
FRONT
WAIST YOKE STYLE
Fig. 70
47 HIP
FRONT
BACK
Fig. 71
Hip-Hugger Pants (Fig . 71)
Belt Loops
The waistline of the pant pattern is cut down 2" to 3" (5- 7.5 em) or so below the natural waist position for the hip hugger style. The pants should fit snug ly in the hip area, and it may therefore be necessary to let out or take in the center back seam. Usually the lowered waistline of the hiphugger pants is finished with a yoke or simply a facing. Therefore, cut the slack pattern down the requ ired amount below the waist before drawing the facing or yoke pattern lines.
Belt loops are made in various widths and lengths and may be attached to the pants in different ways. Narrow belt loops are constructed as follows: Cut strips of material 2213 times the desired width of the loops. (See Fig. 72.) The length of the strip is determined by the width of the belt to be used plus 1" (2.5 em). Fold the strips as shown in Fi gs. 72 and 73. Fold one edge over the width of the loop. Then fold the other edge back over the first edge and handstitch it to the adjacent layer only, so that the stitches do not show from the right side (Fig. 73-1 ). Edgestitch along both edges of the strip (Fig . 73-2).
~-------------~--------------
Fig. 72
Fig. 73
48 4
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C.F. - Center Front C.B. - Center Back
Fig. 74
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seam. Secure the tops of the loops at the back of the band in the top seam between the lining and the waistband. For pants which do not have a waistband , sew the loops to the pants with two rows of stit<;;hing at each end as described for attaching the bottom of the center back loop.
Leg finishes
I
Fig. 75
Fig . 74 illustrates the placement of the loops when pants feature a waistband. Place the first loop ( 1) above the first front dart. Center the next loop (2) on the center back seam after the seam has been sewn. Space the two loops (3) and (4) equally between loops (1) and (2) on both left and right sides of the pants. Another loop may be placed on the left side of the pants next to the fly as marked (5) on Fig. 74. Attach the center back loop as shown in Fig . 75. Sew the bottom end of the loop in place below the waistband (1-1). Fold the loop up along this stitching and stitch again across the fold (11-1 ). Secure the top edge of the loop between the waistband and the lining in the inside of the pants (III ). To attach the remaining loops to the pants. sew the bottom of the strip to the waistline
The final step in constructing the pants involve~ finishing the bottom edges of the pant legs. The most common ways of finishing theres edges are with a hem or a turned-up cuff. ·
Hem of Pant Legs The bottom edges of the pant legs may be turned up a uniform distance from the floor all the way around the leg , and handstitched in place. Often , however, the hems of flares and straight-legged pants are shaped sl ightly, being dropped 1/2" to 3 /4'' (1.3-2 em) at the back of the pant leg. Since the drop is only small , this style feature is accommodated in the 2" (5 em) hem allowance which is cut on the front and back pant sections. To locate the desired position of the hemline of the pant legs, try the pants on and have someone mark
49 the desired length at the center front and center back of the pant leg . Turn up the hem allowance so that the hemline hangs smoothly. When stitching the edge of the hem in place, leave 1/2" ( 1.3 em) on either side of the center front crease line unsewn as, when the hem allowance is folded up on an angle, the front allowance has a tendency to pull towards the back. The back hem allowance will then have excess material at the center back which should be taken up in a wedge shaped tuck. If the raw edge of the hem will fray , finish it with a zig zag stitch, a seam binding, or if suitable, turn it under 114'' (.7 em) and stitch, before it is handstitched in place. The type of handstitch used depends on how the raw edge of the hem is finished and, ultimately, on the pant fabric. When sewing the pant hem, remember to take small stitches in the pant leg itself and to refrain from pulling the stitches too tightly so that the edge of the hem won't be indicated on the front of.the pants. It is wise to try out a few stitches of different sizes and tensions to determine which is suitable for your fabric.
Cuffs
Cuffs may be added to the bottom of the pant legs for a more tailored looking pant. An extension must be added to the bottom of the pattern to accommodate the extra fabric required for this style feature. Before drawing this extension, you must decide on the width of the cuff. Usually the cuff is from 1" to 11/2'' (2.5-4 em) in width but it may be as wide as 2" (5 em). Measure this distance up from the bottom of the pant leg (line 2 in Fig. 76) , and draw the horizontal line (1 ). Construct horizontal lines (3) and (4) such that lines (1 ) , (2), (3), and (4) are equally spaced . Draw a horizontal line (5) at 3/ 4 of the
width of the cuff below line (4). Extend the vertical centerline of the pant pattern down to line (5) . For slims and flares , draw vertical lines from the points where lines ( 1) and (2) meet the pant leg seams down to line (5) .
2
3 0
4 5
Fig. 76
Draw in the seam lines for the cuff sections between these vertical lines in a zig-zag manner as shown on the drawing. For straight-leg or elephant styles, this last step is not necessary as the pant leg seams are vertical and should just be extended straight down to line (5). Add the extension both to the front and to the back patterns. The drawing shows the pattern for the cuff section with the addition of 5 /a" (1 .5cm) seam allowances. Stitch the front and back leg sections together along the seam lines as indicated by the heavy lines on the drawing. Inserts (a) and (b) are cross-section views to show how the cuff is folded. Fold the bottom of the cuff under on line (3). Hemstitch line (5) in place. Bring folded line (3) up to line (1 ), creasing for the bottom edge of the pants along lines (2) and (4).
50 Decorative Touches Decoration may be added to the pant legs in a variety of ways. Shown in this section are loops and buttons (Fig . 77) , lacing (Fig . 78) and buttons and buttonholes (Fig. 79). All are added to the seams of the pant legs. Both lacing, and loops and buttons have been discussed previously in the section dealing with types of closings on page 32. When adding facing or buttons to the side seam of the pant legs, cut the seam allowances wider in this area so that they can be pressed back and used as facings . A separate facing is required for any edge to which loops are sewn. For instructions on the construction and placement of loops refer to page 32. Before adding any of these features , the hem must be finished. Leave the bottom part of the side seam unsewn. Turn up the hem (Fig. 78) and stitch it in place (1 ). Then, press back the seam allowances along the side seam line (2). Turn under the bottom corners
Fig. 78
Fig. 77
of the seam al lowances or facings and stitch in place to the hem allowance as shown (3). For decoration of the leg seam with buttons and buttonholes (Fig. _79) cut the extra fabric required in one with the pants. Extend this extra section out from the side seam allowance, twice the desired width of the extension. Start 5/a" ( 1.5 em) above the desired finished top of the extension and end at the bottom edge of the pants. Fold the extension with right sides together so that it measures the desired width from the side seam line to the fold. Stitch horizontally from the folded edge to the side seam line (1) 5/a" (1.5 em) from the top . Cut diagonally in from the seam allowance of the pants to the end of the stitching (2). Trim the top seam allowance and turn the extension so that the right side faces out. Press. Place the buttonholes as desired on this extension. Sew the side seam from the point where the stitching line (1) stops up to the waist, or to the end of the side zipper. Finish the hem and facings as above.
51
These decorative features have been appl ied to the bottom half of the side seam only , but they can be used to adorn pockets and waist yokes , or they can extend all the way up the side seams. Pleats, ruffles , godets, embroidery, and many more decorative effects may be used . The variations in decorative styl ing seem almost limitless and provide much scope for the imaginative sewer.
and side seam lengths to the floor. The difference between these two measurements plus 2" (5 em) is the distance from the waist to the crotch line on the pattern. Elasticized waistlines are usually desired. Therefore, draw the front and back waist lines equal to 1/ 4 of the hip measurement. Follow the instructions given for th e Elastic Waist on page 44.
Children's slacks Maternity slacks Because of rate of growth and of the small difference between hip and waist measurements, a child's slacks are usually made to fit more loosely than an adult's. Therefore add approximately 4" (1 0 em) to the hip measurement depending on the desired fit of the slacks. Draft the pattern following the Basic Slack Pattern Procedure (pages 6 and 7). Check that the crotch line is in the correct position on the pattern by taking the inseam
For maternity slacks, a stretch panel is inserted in the abdomen area of the slacks. Stretch panels may be purchased at any sewing store. Measure the length and width of the panel: Cut a section out of the front pan t pattern equal to the size of the panel. The waistline may be elasticized or fastened with d rawstrings which may be pulled through a casing sewn to the waist of the pants.
I I I
2
! "'--I
.:f_
-0 -0
_
..__
_,
I
_.....-...~_-
Fig. 79
52
The versatility of slacks in a wardrobe must not be underrated . Not only are they practical from many points of view, but they can be a stylish and flattering part of almost every women 's wardrobe. Some feel they symbolize the spirit of the Women's Liberation Movement. Others feel that they are modern women 's reaction to the insecurity of the mini styles and the restrictions of the midi. Whatever the reason for their popularity, however, women of all ages are wearing slacks with increasing frequency . Choosing a fabric for slacks is a decision which presents problems for many women because of the many considerations involved. An attempt has been made here to offer some suggestions which may help you to make wise decisions in choosing pant fabrics. No longer are women's slacks acceptable only for housework and sports. Today, many offices and stores allow and even encourage their employees to wear pant suits to work; many schools now admit co-eds wearing slacks into the classrooms. But their use does not stop here. Formals and even weddings feature many beautiful pant and jump suits in varied luxurious materials. Therefore, it is important to consider whether your slacks will be worn as sports, street, or evening wear. Texture should be taken into consideration when choosing a fabric. Some textures tend to make a person look smaller or larger than do others. For example, heavy, bulky tweeds may flatter the tall , slim person, but make the short person look wider than she really wants to look. Conversely, fine, clingy fabrics may make the tal l, slim person look taller and slim-
mer than desired. Shimmering and shiny fabrics are real eye-catchers. If a great deal of such fabrics is used in an outfit, the effect may be overpowering. Similarily, stripes, checks, and plaids may have an effect on the appearance. For example, vertical , uneven stripes may make a person 's legs look longer and slimmer than do even , l1orizontal stripes. This effect depends on the colours of the stripes and on the weight and texture of the fabric . But, it is important to consider how a fabric stripe or design will look on you . Colour is not as imprntant a factor unless the top, with which the pants will be worn, will repeat the colour of the pants. In general, bright eye-catching colours tend to increase the apparent size of an individual. More subdued and darker colours tend to decrease size. Since fabrics are available in so many hues and shades of colou r, and in many different qualities. these guidelines are very flexible. Before making the final decision to purchase a certain fabric , try to picture your slacks made up in this fabric to determine whether the overall effect will be pleasing . Many fabrics on the market today may satisfy your needs and taste. These fabrics can be classified according to type of fabric (e.g ., crepe, flannel, jersey) , or according to fiber content (e.g., polyester, wool), or by a combination of the two (e.g. , polyester crepe). The following charts may help you to select fabrics for slacks. The first chart describes the fabrics and the second chart tells how to handle them.
54 Fabrics suitable for slacks Chart I
Fibre
Fabrics
Properties
Cotton
knits, sailcloth, poplin duck, seersucker. terrycloth, denim, corduroy, velvet, velveteen, voile
durable, easy care, washable, can be treated for permanent pressweakens fabric , comfortable, absorbs moisture, can be made shrink resistant, does not collect static
Wool
woven flannel , broadcloth, worsted , woollen, tweed , knit jersey, doubleknit, crepe
holds press-good for tailored slacks, crease resistant, comfortable- absorbs moisture and insulates, shrinks-dry clean unless "washable"
Nylon
stretch knits, velvet, brushed jersey, sheers, light weight woven fabrics
easy care, washable, durable, can be used for waterproof sportswear, wrinkle resistant
Acetate
jersey, tricot, crepe, satin, brocade, shantung, moire, taffeta
shiny, lustrous, good body, smooth, soft, drapey, wrinkles , collects static electricity, not strong or durable, often blended with another fibre, iron on " low" on wrong side, wash or dry clean depending on fabric
Acrylic
bulky knits, double knits, crochet materials, light weight woven materials, sheers
crease resistant, collects static, not as absorbent as wool, washes and dries quickly
Polyester
c repe , knits, sheers, can be blended with cotton permanent press
strong, durable, little or no ironing, wash and wear, collects stati c readily
Triacetate
tricot, sharkskin, blended fabrics
can be crease resistant-especially tricot, can be cared for easily, can be permanently pleated
55 Chart II
Fabrics
How to handle fabrics
Cutting & sewing
Pressing
Woollens
pre-shrink, if napped use directional layout, finish raw edges
steam iron may be used , damp cloth
Cottons
pre-shrink, finish raw edges
iron when material is damp, steam iron
Silks
use sharp, fine needle, fine th read , silk pins
maY. have to avoid using steam, test scrap first, place thin cardboard between seam allowance and slacks when pressing
Light Weight Sheers
French seams, may pin to tissue paper when cutting out to prevent stretching, fine sharp needle and pins, stitch with tissue paper
no steam, press lightly at fibre setting
Crepe
if lightweight, treat as for sheers in cutting and sewing
do not over press, dry iron on wrong side using correct fibre setting, use cardboard between layers for pressing
Peau de soie, satin , moire, taffeta, brocade
directional layout may be requ ired , pins mark material, silk pins may be used, sharp needle, finish raw edges, hold layers taut when stitching
no steam, press with point of iron or place cardboard layer between seam allowance and slacks, do not over press
Velvets and directional layout, press on velvet board using tip of iron, and other napped use fine pins, needle and thread , in most cases steam may be used fabrics pattern may be scotch taped to wrong side of fabric if desired, cut with sharp shears
56 Fabrics
Cutting & Sewing
Pressing
Metallic
fine needle, synthetic thread, if scratchy, line with thick lining, bind seam allowance with bias tape for medium weight, and with organza for sheers
use dry iron, or pre-test a scrap for effect of steam, or finger press
Lace
may require directional treatment, may use French seams
may be steam pressed depending on fibre
t
Knits
check for directional treatment, stretches, requires care in cutting, cut with sharp shears, use long fine pins, sharp fine needle, may sew seams with fine zigzag stitch, pre-shrink if washable, sew with polyester th read, check grain
synthetic crimps , press lightly with damp ctoth, use point of iron , iron can be fairly hot, test scrap first
57
l11tlex
Acrylic, 54 Adjustments. pattern, 8 flat derriere, 13 full derriere, 11 high hip curve, 9 low crotch location, 13 one high hip, 11 protruding stomach, 9 sway back, 11 Baggie pants, 15 Basic slack pattern, 4, 6, 7 Belt loops, 47 Button fly, 32 invisible. 35 Buttonholes, 34, 50 size of, 34 width of, 34 Buttons and buttonholes, 31, 50 Chalk markings, 23 Checking the grain, 20 Checks, 53 Children's slacks, 51 Closings, 26 buttons and buttonholes, lacing, 31 , 50 loops and buttons, 31 types of, 31 zipper, 26 Colour, 53 Cord, 31 Cotton, 54, 55 Crepe, 55 Cuffs. 49 Cutting procedures, 19 Darts, 4 back, 5 direction to stitch, front, 4 waist, 4 Decorative touches,
31 , 50
25
50
Elastic waist, 45 Elephant pants, 15 Estimating amount of fabric ,
19
Fabric acrylic , 54 corduroy, 21 cotton, 20, 54, 55 crepe, 20, 55 crimps, 20 knits, 5, 20 nylon, 54 polyester, 54 prints, 21 sheers, 20, 55 silk, 55 triacetate, 54 velvet, 21, 55 wool. 20, 54, S5 Fabrics checks, 19, 2 1 cutting and sewing, 51 grain of, 20 how to handle, 55 nap of, 21 permanent press, 20 preparation of, 20 pressing, 55 suitable for slacks, 53 texture, 53 Fibre, 54 Figure problems, 8 flat derriere, 12 full derriere, 10 high hip curve, 10 low crotch location, 12 one high hip, 10 protruding stomach, 8 sway back, 10 Fitting, 25 Flared pants, 16 Flat derriere, 13 Fly, button, 32, 35 Fly front zipper, 26 Full derriere, 11 Hem of pant legs, 48 High hip curve , 9 High hip, one, 11 Hip-hugger pants, 47 Hot pants, 15
Invisible button fly, Knit fabric,
35
5
Lacing, 31 , 32, 50 Layout procedures, 19 Leg finishes, 49 Lining, 26 Loops, belt, 47 Loops and buttons, 31 . 32, 50 Low crotch location, 13 Marking and outlining the pattern, Matching side seams, 18 Maternity slacks, 51 Measurements, 2, 3 crotch depth, 18 cuff, 3 , 18 knee, 3 ,18 minimum-cuff, 18 hip, 3 record of, 2 thigh , 3 , 18 waist, 3 Measuring, 2 Men's pants. 5 Nap, 21 Notches, 19, 23 Nylon, 54 Pant fabrics , 53 Pants (slacks) baggie, 15 children's, 51 elephant, 15 flared . 16 hip-hugger, 47 hot. 15 maternity. 51 shorts, 17 slims, 16 straight-legged, 15 Patch pockets , 36 Pattern adjustments, 8 block, 1, 4
23
58 draftmg. 1 layout, 20. 22. 23 markmg. 23 outhn1ng. 23 PlaidS. 53 Pockets. 36 double welt openmg, 37 patch, 36 s1de seam. 40 western style, 42 Polyester, 54 Preshrink, 26 Press1ng, 25. 55. 56 Prints. 2 1 Protruding stomach. 9 Seam allowance. 23. 24 Separat1ng the pattern pieces, Sew1ng slacks, 25 Sewmg techn1q ues. 25 Sheers. 55 Shorts. 17 S1de seam pockets, 40 Side zipper, 30 S1lk. 55 Slacks (see pants) Slims, 16 Straigh t- legged pants. 15 Stretch fabric, 5, 31, 45 Stripes, 2 1, 53 vertical, 21 dominant, 21 Style variations. 14 Sway back, 1 1
19
Texture. 53 Transfer chalk mark1ngs. 23 Triacetate. 54 Velvet.
55
Waistbands, 44 Waist facing, 45 Waist finishes. 45 elas tic , 45 Wais t yoke. 46 Western style pocket, 42 Wool, 54, 55 Yoke,
waist,
46
Zipper clos1ngs, fly front, 26
26
1 2 3 4 5 # 135551
78 77 76 75 74
