Mallorca DWS Book

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing 11 extra crags not covered in Deep Water

Porto Cristo Novo Porto Colom Cala Sa Nau Cala Mitjana Cala Serena Santanyi Es Pontas Cala Llombards GUIDE Mallorca Deep Water Soloing Mini GUIDE

by Daimon Beail Version 2.0 - July 2008 ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2008

Port de Soller Sa Calobra Palma

By Daimon Beail

Palma Porto Pi

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing

PEA

Mini GUIDE

by Daimon Beail Edited by Alex Armitage and Alan James Version 2.0 - July 2008

1 min

ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2008 7

All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.

6

3

4

Foot Note

5

The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this MiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.

2 1

Acknowledgment Porto Pi Approach - This area is also used for swimming and cliff jumping by many people so it is quite easy to access all the lines from either the left or right side of the crag via an easy down-climb. Exiting - Either on the left or right of the crag, but as always, if the sea becomes rough a rope is recommended.

1 Pepelink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S1

10m. The left arch on some good holds until you reach the top. Watch the ledge at the start.

2 Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

5 Cuquets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

12m. Quite possibly the first recorded deep water solo on the island, which would make it the first deep water solo route in the world! Start as for Jaume , which avoids the hard lip climbing below, to move into the upper part of Meca . FA. Miquel Riera 1978

6 Jaume. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6a S0

11m. On the right of the cove. Beware of brittle rock.

7 Sa Primera . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0

11m. A slight alternative to Jaume , which takes a more direct line out of the cove.

11m. Either swim, use a dinghy, or attempt to climb around to the start of this one. Climb the pillar, move right onto the face and then attack the roof at the top.

3 Mucho Mi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

8b+ S0 12m. Porto Pi's big number cruncher. Starting on the right side of the cove, traverse the lip and launch out onto the face to cross the line of Pilar and into a small corner. Power over the roof to finish.

4 Meca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7b S0

12m. Make an early exit from Mucho Mi and finish on Pilar .

Way Down

3

The challenges in writing this book were enormous and time consuming. I began this journey alone and with no prior knowledge of DWS in Mallorca. All I had was Mike Robertson's article on Diablo and an obsessive hunger to know more. Along the way things changed regarding my solo mission and in doing this guide I have met some fantastic people who have offered information and encouragement. I have also been lucky enough to have had the support of my family and friends. Thanks for keeping me going. A big thank you to: Alan James; Mike Robertson (for the 2002 Diablo article which started my journey and your help and support throughout making this guide); Miquel Riera (the Godfather of Mallorcan rock climbing; this edition would not have been possible without your help. Josh Lowell (thank you for the photo and contacts); James Cole (or is it Captain Cole, thanks for all those trips); Peter Brown (for helping us set sail); Andrew Chapman (for your big lenses, 'focus'); Peter Church (photo technical assistance); Bernard Exley (the bionic man); Alistair MacDonald (what's with the spud gun); Dieter Werther (thanks for joining us!!); Adam Lincoln (the president); Martin Putz (Zioggg); Heidi Spets (for all your love and support); Ged Desforges (thank you for the photos and info on Porto Cristo Novo and Cala Sa Nau); Iban Garayar (see you out there soon!); Neil Gresham (with help on Novo); Ben Heason (thanks for your help and pictures); Matt Heason (its a small, small world); Mike Lloyd (thanks for the info); Stuart Metcalf (technical genius); Thomas Starke (for showing me truth justice and TS way); Ethan Pringle, (for introducing me to the big up crew, good luck on Es Pontas); Chris Sharma (a true local and thanks for your help); Anna Starke (at Max Mag); Adrian G. Riber (at Mindtomotion.se); Juergen Waskowiak (for the west coast info); Ouita Broadfoot (for the illustrator work done on Cova de Ses Puntes); Ramon Marin (information sorcery) and Alex Armitage (for the super final text edit!). Big respect to all those on board at dwsworld.com and to everyone who has e-mailed me with inquires, ideas, tips, info and abuse. I'd also like to take this opportunity to pay my respects to Damian Cook who was killed whilst soloing in challenging conditions in Mallorca. Damian was a true pioneer in the evolution of deep water soloing. He has contributed an array of ideas, first ascents and very much helped pave the way for deep water soloing. May he rest in peace.

Mini GUIDES from rockfax.com

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing

Palma

Porto Pi is a small venue near the shipyards in Palma and is a convenient location for some activity on the last day whilst waiting for your flight back. There are only a few routes but this is enough to keep you entertained, with grades stretching from 6a to 8b+. Porto Pi plays a historical role in the development of Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca. It was here, back in 1978, that Miquel Riera first began exploring the possibility of bouldering above the water. The crag is not too high, 12m or so, and is popular with city workers wanting some after-work soloing action.

Approach It is difficult to navigate through the city of Palma and the maps provided here are only a rough guide. Travelling west on the PM-1 (Avenida de Gabriel Roca) you will eventually come to an area called Porto Pi. Look out for a big shipyard on your left with two large boathouses, and on the right, a shopping mall with a 'Porto Pi' sign on it. In front is a large junction. Turn right and follow the road around to your left (this is a large roundabout with the PM-1 running right through it) and take the third exit on your right. Follow this road (named Carretera al Dic de I'Oest) for around 400m until you see a metal tank on the left and a parking area on the right. Park here and it's a 30-second walk to the crag below.

Conditions The rock is unfortunately quite brittle and loose near the top, so take care in places. Also, watch out for the occasional accumulation of rubbish in the sea, which normally happens around mid-to-late afternoon.

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Porto Cristo (Tower of Falcons) . 6 Porto Cristo Novo. . . . . . . . . . . 8 Porto Colom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Cala Sa Nau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Cala Mitjana . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Cala Serena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Santanyi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Cala Llombards . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Port de Soller . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Sa Calobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Son Vida

PM-27 Vileta Son Muntaner Golf PM-20

Genova PM-1 i t t a n u s S g A

PM-30

PALMA

Son Ferriol

PM-1

Castell de Bellver

C-715 PM-19

E s M o l i n a r

Porto Pi

Porto Pi

C-719

PM-20

r t p o A i r

Map not to scale

PM-1 PM-1

Ship Yard

This page: Adam Lincoln on The Camp Jogger 6c+ Dominion Wall (Porto Colom) Cover: Heidi Spets heading towards the crux of Superwoman 7a+. Back Cover: Axel Big catching some big air. Photos: Daimon Beail

Porto Pi Map not to scale

Cuquets 6b. Photo by Heidi Spets

Sa Calobra

Torrent de Pareis - The Arena

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

PTA 8 min

J

J

7 6

The Arena Approach - The Arena is the first area you reach just before entering the tunnels. The crag is overlooked by a viewing area, which means your climbing will attract a lot of attention. You can set up camp on a rocky platform just over the left side of the railing, and descend to the climbs from here. Exit - In calm seas exiting is extremely easy as there is an underwater ledge at the bottom of the natural descent line into the sea. In slightly rougher conditions a rope would be useful. Also climb with care at the bottom, as it is normally quite slippery and wet.

6 The Fulcher . . . . . . . . 2pc 6b+ S0

18m. A fantastic line that finishes with a long jump back down. Traverse the handrail along and down past the arete of Wax until you reach a crouching position under a crack-line. Follow this all the way until you reach a recess and a finish to the route. Jump off from here. FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05

7 Wax . . . . . . . . . . 3ftc 7a+ S0

12m. A stunning find. Still awaiting a direct finish past the large pockets. Traverse the handrail until you reach the arete. Climb the right-hand side of it making some sequence moves to a jug. Continue to wind your way up the face to the pockets out left. Jump from here or try the direct finish into the recess. FA. J.Cole 17.06.05

Daimon Beail making the first ascent of The Fulcher 6b+


Mallorca sits off the eastern coast of Spain and is home to some of the World's best deep water soloing. These famous cliffs are covered with big golden pockets and some of the toughest solos in the World, including Chris Sharma's route up the underside of the Es Pontas arch. But there is also plenty of more-moderate soloing available across a wealth of fine crags all in a fantastic holiday atmosphere.

Introduction Daimon Beail Pulling His Way Out of the Water 7b

This edition of the Mallorcan deep water soloing MiniGUIDE (previously known as Mallorcan Psicobloc) contains crags that didn't get covered in the Rockfax publication Deep Water. For the full picture on deep water soloing on Mallorca you will need to a copy of Deep Water. This award-winning book (Banff 2007 - Best Guidebook) contains the crags of Porto Cristo, Cala Barques and Cala Marçal, as well as many other superb Gear venues from all around the World. It is availWhat to take? In September and October: able from the Rockfax web site not a lot. The water is so warm that a wet www.rockfax.com suit is not needed. If you are prepared to wear a shorty then this may help with If you find anything that you think is missing buoyancy in the water. Two pairs of boots or incorrect in this MiniGuide, or wish to and a chalk bag are all you really need, inform us about new routes and crags, along with plenty of chalk and those email [email protected]. sandwich bags to line the inside of your chalk bag for when it gets wet. When to Go A dinghy is essential for some routes, The most popular time for climbers to visit as they require a boat start. These can tends to be late September, early October be picked up from tourist hot spots very when the sea is still warm and the average cheaply. One or two places could do with air temperature is in the low 20s. Late a rope ladder to get out of the water, so if October is often the wettest time of the you have one, take it along. A 30m rope is year but its still possible to go and dodge needed and a few slings for setting up water the showers. November is also a possibility exits. Ropes are also useful for accessing but it is likely to be cold and make for a the bottom of lines safely. A harness is less pleasant holiday. April to June is also only needed if you intend to abseil in to the possible for the more dedicated among starts. us but a wet suit might be needed. Local climbers see July and August as a prime time to go soloing, but for many this will be far too hot.

Introduction

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

Safety

Flights

Mallorca as a deep water soloing venue does have its downside. The sea can be very rough and you are advised to keep well clear in these conditions. It's amazing how hard it can be to exit the water in even a mild swell. There is only a very small tidal range but please be aware of possible currents while out swimming under crags. It goes without saying that you need to be physically fit for deep water soloing and being a strong swimmer is an essential part of the sport. Always climb in teams of two or more - never, ever solo alone! It is also worth mentioning the jellyfish - the large ones (Mild Rhizostoma pulmo) are easy to spot and normally stay away from the crags or drift away quickly on the tide. The smaller gray jellyfish (Pelagia noctiluca) travel around in shoals, drifting on the currents. I personally have seen hundreds at a crag and have been stung a few times but found it not to be too bad. Watch the direction of their travel if they are out and about and head to another crag if possible. You don't see jellyfish all the time and its quite possible for you to spend a week or two in Mallorca and not see any.

There are many flights to Palma, Mallorca from all sorts of destinations across Europe.

Getting around A hire car is the best choice for maximum flexibility. Lots of accommodation companies deal directly with their own car companies making things easier when booking. If you choose to book separately there are many to be found on the web. It is best to book before you go.

Access Most of Mallorca is private land but so far access to the DWS venues has not been an issue. As always, take great care when approaching any of the cliffs, don’t disturb the vegetation, fences and walls, and leave politely if asked to do so.


Sa Calobra

OIUA

Torrent de Pareis - The Mouth

BOAT

15 min

www.flybmi.com, www.britishairways.com, www.easyjet.com, www.thomsonfly.com, www.airtours.co.uk, www.airberlin.com

1

Exit Point

2

Accommodation There are lots of fantastic villas, apartments and hotels on offer but no camping. Wild camping is allowed but restrictions are in place making it quite difficult to do safely. Out of season the villas are a very reasonable price and highly recommended. See www.dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com for more details.

Shops There are supermarkets in most of the towns and a large hypermarket in Palma that will cater for all your needs. Opening times in Mallorca are normally between 10:00 to 13:30 hrs. and 16:00 to around 20:00 hrs. Shops will normally be closed on national holidays and Sundays.

New routes New route and new area information can be emailed to [email protected]

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The Mouth

Approach - Sa Pose is reached by either swimming from the beach and pulling up onto the steps using a rope, or walking around to the no entry sign on the tunnel path and crossing a weak railing. Water Logged is a swim from the beach as are The Little Professor and Mad Professor . Tufa Land is at the end of The Little Professor traverse and is a lovely wall covered in (obviously) Tufas. Accessing The Mallorcan needs to be done from a boat.

1 Sa Pose. . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 6b+ S0

9m. A powerful traverse. Follow the faint crack, which leaves the massive flake, on positive holds to big side-pulls and power upwards to a ledge. Work your way down the ledge to the start and do it again for the spectators who didn’t spot you the first time.

5 The Mallorcan . . . . . . 3sc 7a S0

12m. From the water with a ring or a swim, climb the only tufa line that is accessible from the sea and follow this via a lovely jug to where the tufa fattens. Navigate around the right side of this and head up onto the slab to the right-hand exit. FA. Ged Desforges Sep.07

Ged Desforges's team of climbers have also accomplished high points on the adjacent tufas to the left.

FA. Daimon Beail 30.09.03

2 Water Logged. . . . . . . . .

9m. Pull out of the water and follow the big flake up and right. At the top of the flake, climb up to the sloping ledge, and jump off! FA. Julian Chapman 30.09.03

3 The Little Professor . . . .

T U F A L A N D

pc 6a S0

5

Torrent-De-Pareis

1c

5+ S0 60m+. Nothing little about it. Normally done from right to left. Pull yourself out of the water, or off your boat, and traverse at any height, making it whatever grade you like - 5+ is average. There are also some boulder problems along the way. It is possible to get to Tufa Land if you don’t have a boat. FA. Daimon Beail S.Smith J.Chapman 30.09.03

4 The Mad Professor . . . . .

2c 6c+ S0

15m. From the start of Little Professor , head right on fantastic rock to a tricky handrail and a slap for a large bucket. Continue as far as you can and bale out just before the shallow water. FA. Daimon Beail 17.06.05

3 S W I M e t c

4 7

6 1

TUNNEL

Map not to scale

T U N N E L

Sa Calobra

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy, which means your climbing activity can become the centre of attention every now and then. The climbing is found at the mouth of the 'Torrent-De-Pareis' which in the winter months, after heavy rain, can be a fast-flowing river. Normally though the river is dry and the mouth of the Gorge is just a dry pebble beach that slopes sharply into the sea. The climbing is currently limited but there may be many more possibilities out there. A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If you decide to visit 'Tufa Land' take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts you’re going to have a long swim back. The climbs never exceed 12m.

Approach


Rockfax Symbols

1 a good route 2 a very good route 3 a brilliant route t technical climbing involving complex or tricky moves

p powerful moves requiring big arms s sustained climbing, either long and pumpy or with lots of hard moves

Sa Calobra is on the north side of the island. Make your way to 'Soller' and take the C710 towards 'Pollenca'. This road winds its way up into the mountains, passing through many tunnels and via the odd military outpost. After this longer-than-expected drive you eventually get to a major turn on the left which rollercoasters its way down to ' Cala Tuent' and 'Sa Calobra'. This point can also be approached from the other direction, direct from 'Pollenca' or from 'Inca'. Following signs to Sa Calobra leads to a pay-and-display car park on your right near the bottom of the valley. From here, walk down to the sea front and turn right. Follow the path along the front until you eventually come to a series of small well-lit tunnels. Try to squeeze your way through them, to emerge at the other side.

f fingery climbing - sharp holds! r a long reach is helpful / essential g rounded holds may be found o a dyno is required h heart fluttery climbing l loose rock Grades

Conditions The biggest problem on this side of the island is rain. Because 'Sa Calobra' is on the edge of the mountain range it tends to get hit with downpours from time to time. This is obviously less of a problem in June but in mid-October you will find an umbrella quite useful. The cove faces north west and, because of the steepness of the surrounding cliffs and mountains, the sun normally hits the area from about midday to early afternoon.

Map not to scale

Torrent-De-Pareis Crag Sa Calobra

POLLENCA Sa Calobra

All grades are presented in a dual format. The main sport grade gives the overall difficulty of the route and the S-grade gives you an idea of how safe it is.

Colour Code 1 4+ and under 2 5 to 6a+ 3 6b to 7a 4 7a+ and up

Good for beginners Harder routes for those with some experience For the experienced and dedicated climber The hard stuff, for expert dws climbers only

C710 PM220 1102m

Port de Soller

1348m

C710

A R A U E A M S

C710

SOLLER L E N N U T

C711

A

PM213

Sa Pobla Selva

1090m

C713 PM210

Alaro

INCA

PM211 C713 PM27

PM344 PM324

S0 - Safe and r elatively non-committing. Usually with a low crux move and any falls lead to a clean projection into the water. S1 - A caution rating. Longer and the route may also have a high crux. S2 - Similar to S1 but may also have protruding ledges above or below the water. The water may be shallow in places and bailing out will require a bit of precision to get into the water safely. S3 - The connoisseur’s DWS. Heady to onsight. Often shallow, high cruxes, exposed and often genuinely dangerous. Take care!

Climbing Information KEY Mountain peak Minor road

Lighthouse

LH

Town or village

Highway Main Road

Built up area

Dirt track PMV401-2

River or stream

Road number Mountainous area

River in built up area Way to destination Path

Buildings

Boulders

Anchorage

Vegetation House or Hotel Parking

P

Project

J

Jump off point

Other guides The most essential other book you will need is the Rockfax book Deep Water - this covers the three big crags of Porto Cristo, Cala Barques and Cala Marçal. Psicobloc Mallorca is Miquel Riera's best of guide to 'Psicobloc' on the island. It contains a variety of coastal sport climbs and a small section on bouldering on the south east coast. The book is in both Spanish and English www.edicionesdesnivel.com

Easy Block by Jurgen Waskowiak, Oliver Fischer and Bernd Gorten is a small guide to the low-grade deep water soloing that can be found on the south west coast of the island. This area is ideal for beginners and small groups as most of the venues are easy to access and not very high. www.psicobloc.com

The Climbing Areas

Mini GUIDES

Sa Calobra


Port de Soller

10 min

Port d'Pollença

Pollença

Portd'Alcúdia

Alcúdia

Conditions - Cova de Ses Puntes faces west, which gives it the afternoon and evening sun. It does not dry out quickly.

710

La Puebla

Soller

712

Inca Valldemossa

Muro

Alaro

Artà

Cova de Ses Puntes

PTA

MALLORCA

Cova de Ses Puntes Port de Soller

from rockfax.com

Way Down

Way Down

Cala Ratjada

SantaMargalida

Bunyola 710

Santa María

PM27 715

Petra

Porto Cristo

713

Vilafranca

PM111

Airport

Andratx PM1

Palma

Manacor

715

Porto Cristo 717

Santa Poncça

Porto Pi

Porto Cristo Novo

Felantix

Cala Barques

Porto Colom

Campos del Puerto

Porto Colom Cala Marcal

Santanyi

Cala Sa Nau

Orange crags are covered in Deep Water

Cala Mitjana

Cala Llombards

1

Cala Santanyi & Es Pontas

The east coast still holds a lot of potential and there are many smaller venues dotted around. Most of these larger areas are known - like the cliffs between Cala Marcal and Cala Sa Nau - but have not seen much development yet.

Cala Marcal to Cala Sa Nau These cliffs contain many caves and vertical walls which offer some excellent potential for further development.

Cova de Ses Puntes The west coast also has a lot of potential. Three new areas have already been developed by some local climbers on the south west coast and offer some easier lines, which are perfect for first-timers. Further north, the more dedicated and braver soloers should seek out some of those highball deep water solos which are still awaiting a first ascent. The amazing Formentor peninsula hasn't any recorded ascents to date! Accessing the cliffs on Formentor is hard and they are rather exposed to the elements. If you visit and develop something new and want to share it with the rest of the world, then document it as well as you can with crag photos and some good descriptions.

4 5

6

7

Small Ledge

New Areas Although there has been plenty of development, there are more areas still to be discovered and many of the crags in this guide still have room for further development.

3

2

Cala Serena

Approach - Follow the road along the sea front to a 'no entry' sign. Turn sharp right up the hill and continue through hairpin bends past the Nautilus Bar (parking for the sport crag). Where the road curves right, turn left onto a small road leading off onto a dirt track. This winds for about 1km through olive trees and shrubs to a small open area - park here. Walk along a gully/path towards the sea cliff and tower. Go right around this and continue to the cliff edge where you will locate the cave. To access the lines simply down climb either the left or right side of the cave. Install an exit rope. Metxicans to Tramontana all start from a small ledge which means no tricky traversing.

Cova de Ses Puntes

1 Supermanolo . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

2 Republica Sinestra . . . . . . . .

c

6b S0 14m. Starting from the left side of the cave mouth and climb the lip of the cave until you reach easier ground above. 7c S0 14m. Traverse right into the cave for 2m before launching up the steep wall and out over the lip. Often wet.

3 Cristo . . . . . . . . . . . .1fc 7a S0

14m. From the right side of the cave, traverse leftwards into the centre and onto the slightly bulging wall. From the left side of this, which is difficult to attain, climb left toward the roof and then cross it to gain the upper wall.

4 PSM . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 6c S0 12m. Climb the centre of the cave, which is a little crimpier than the rest.

Tower

Sport Crags DirtTrack

5 Metxicans . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

6 Tanassa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

7 Tramontana . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

6c S0 14m. Just right of centre is a small incut hole. Climb left over this and slightly to the right of PSM .

Path to Sport Crags

6b S0 14m. Just to the right of Metxicans is an easier but ever so slightly steeper wall. The large holds keep this line in check.

Please e-mail [email protected] if you've found new lines and check out www.dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com to see what's new.

D O M LH

Map not to scale

6c S1 14m. The right-hand side of the cave. Watch the ledge at the start.

Port de Soller

Mini GUIDES

OIWA

BOAT

from rockfax.com

Porto Cristo - Tower of Falcons

The main crag at Porto Cristo is covered in the Rockfax book Deep Water. Since that was published in 2007, there have been a few new additions to the Tower of Falcons Area (page 268 of Deep Water). The Tower of Falcons is situated on the opposite edge of Porto Cristo town to Cova del Diablo. The landmark to locate the area is the large cliff-top tower. The stunning cave below the Tower may one day host some absolute DWS masterpieces.

3

15 min


2

C715

Landing Platform

1

C715

MANACOR

Sa Coma Cala Moreia

PM402

1 Aqua Phobia . . . . . . . 3fc 6c S0

35m. An excellent right-to-left traverse. Climb under the shelf, then up and left, using a big thread. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03

7 Dim Dim . . . . . . . . . . 2fc 5 S0

9m. There is a wall right of the face, climb the part that bulges slightly over the water and veers left at the top. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03

2 The Little Blue . . . . . . 1fc 6b+ S0

9m. Start as for Aqua Phobia but continue up the arete on jugs. It gets 6b+ for the start, the rest is probably only 5+. FA. Daimon Beail 28.09.03

3 It Tastes Like The Sea. . .

8 The Ease of Passage. . . . . . .

PMV401-4


Tower of Falcons Porto Cristo Novo

c 5+ S1


FA. S.Smith 28.09.03

0 It Could Go On . . . . . . . . . . .

c

14m. Follow the ramp to the roof and climb up and right.

6a S0 8m. Climb diagonally left, on big holds, starting at the base of the Big Easy Flake . Carry on until you reach the massive hole.



5 Pots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

q Big Easy Flake. . . . . . . . . . .

c 6a+ S1

16m. Follow the crackline under the ramp to the roof and finish as for A Passage to the New . FA. S.Smith 28.09.03

c 4 S2

Approach Drive southwards out of Porto Cristo, up the hill from the small bridge, and make a left turn down a straight road to a circular car park at the end. Here you cannot miss the amazing stone Tower of Falcons, with its rather disturbing, eroded, inner staircase. You'll need your shoulders for an ascent!

7m. Climb it.


w Little Princess . . . . . . . . . . .

6 Squid . . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 6b S0

c 6b+ S0

8m. Traverse right, low down from the left side of the face until you reach a flake. Climb this and finish as for A Passage...

80m+. The mighty traverse from the landing platform takes you to the far end of the crag. Finish up Big Easy Flake . The harder bits can normally be bypassed higher up.



OIWA

Porto Cristo

c 3 S3

7m. Up the stuck-on flake is the nicest.

9m. The blank arete right of Little Blue .

4 A Passage to the New . . . . . .

Cova Del Diablo

C714

10m. The easy way up, or down.

9 Deep Sea Climbing. . . . . . . .

fc 7b S2

Cala Morlanda

Conditions There are no tidal issues but pay close attention to the sea state. Avoid hot sun on Morning Glory .

PM402

Porto Cristo

BOAT

15 min

Cova del Diablo Area See Deep Water Rockfax 10 PMV401-4

4

Tower of Falcons

7 5

8 6

9

11

Porto Cristo

Tower of Falcons

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

AOE 1 min

Tower of Falcons

9

J

Rope Way Down

J

6

7

5

8


Port de Soller

Port de Soller’s DWS crag is a quiet little gem. It is bigger than it looks from the beach although there’s nothing much higher than 10m, except on the far right-hand where the cliff rises to around 15m. This crag is best visited if you happen to be in the area; don’t go out of your way especially if you’re enjoying the delights of the East Coast. The entire crag is undercut and in most places the sea is deep - safe for splashdowns. There may be some new route possibilities on the right side of this crag. On the other s ide of the bay there is a fantastic cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately, this is military-owned and it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it. Slightly further northeast up the coast is Cova De Ses Puntes. This offers some harder routes that top out a bit higher at around 14m but are not always in good condition. When conditions are right though, you're in for a treat with some fantastic lines waiting to be ticked. See page 42 for approach.

Water Exit

Water Exit

Approach Tower of Falcons Shrek, is located about 200m south of the tower at the bottom of an easy way down. You can use Shrek to traverse along to the starts of Feist Queen and Public Enema No.1. The start to Morning Glory is slightly north east along the cliff where it is possible to make your way down to a large ledge. La Hostia and Toni are best reached via a ropeassisted descent to the right of Forat. Sa Valenta is a dry-bag to a ledge in the cave. Exits - For Shrek, Feist Queen and Public Enema use a preplaced rope. Morning Glory is a swim back to the ledge. Routes near La Hostia requires a swim into the cave to exit. Sa Valenta is just a swim back to the ledge under the route! Always install a rope for exiting the water where you can.

P o r t o C r i s to

PMV401-4

5

Big Cave Tower of Falcons 1

FA. Gav Symonds Oct. 2002

2 Shrek Extension . . 1stc 6c+ S0 15m. Traverse another 15m beyond Shrek to pump the grade up to 6c+. FA. Ken Palmer Oct. 2001

3 Feist Queen . . . . . 2shc 6c S3

18m. Not the kind of line most soloers would be happy with doing with only 2m of water to break your fall. But if you are up for it then continue traversing past the end of Shrek and climb the bulging wall to the right of the spiky face. The crux is near the top!

3

4

Map not to scale

1 Shrek . . . . . . . . . 2stc 6a S0

140m. A long and relatively easy left-to-right traverse of the wall. It ends just to the left of the bulging face. From here it's best to solo (not a DWS) up the spiky wall at about 3+.

2

5 Morning Glory

2sftc

7a+ S1 160m. From the large platform, traverse left toward the large cave. The hard bit comes near the end as you make a rising traverse up to a small cave at one-third height. Jump from here.

Conditions The main crag at Port de Soller faces east so it generally gets the morning and earlyafternoon sun. It also dries very quickly.

FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2001

6 Sa Valenta. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

6c S3 12m. Climb the block to the inner cave. Watch the underwater ledge and don't fall! It may be possible to jump off at the end (don't hold me to that) better still just reverse it.

Port de Soller Cova de Ses Puntes

Sa Calobra

23m. This fantastic line climbs the steep wall at the back of the cave (right-hand side) to a large horn-shaped tufa in the roof. Continue to the lip and eventually the top. FA. Chris Sharma 2006

4 Public Enema No.1 . . . 1tc 6b S2

8 Toni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7c S1

FA. Grant FArquhar Oct. 2001

FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006

18m. Climb the right-hand side of the cave mouth to the roof. Continue up and slightly rightwards to the top.

9 Forat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7c+ S1

17m. From the cave where Morning Glory finishes, tackle the bulging wall above to a ledge. The upper section needs care. FA. Toni Lamprecht 2006

Cova de Ses Puntes

C710

7 La Hostia. . . . . . . 3sfc 8a+ S2

FA. Mike Robertson Oct. 2002

18m. Climb the line to the right of Feist Queen . Escape right up a groove to an easier finish than the previous line.

From Palma take the C711 towards Soller through the toll tunnel. When you reach a roundabout near Soller keep going and follow signs to 'Port de Soller'. Follow this road to the port. Parking is best found around the back streets. From the left-hand side of the bay, make your way along the water’s edge until it gets rocky. Continue along a disused pipe (covered in concrete) down as far as the rocky beach. There is a large dusty rock pillar, which prevents you from continuing any further without getting wet. Launch your dinghy from here and paddle across, or alternatively dry-bag it to the crag. Aqua Phobia and The Little Blue start from the landing platform. Be careful getting onto the start as there are one or two ledges sticking out and the odd greasy hold. Descend by clambering over the top and back to the landing platform or jump off into the sea. A Passage To The New to Big Easy Flake are reached by either traversing Little Princess from the platform or walking slightly above the crag through all those nasty bushes. Alternatively, you could just use a dinghy, as it is quite easy to get onto land.

1 LH

1348m

Port de Soller

N D T A U R E C710

C710

SOLLER L E N N U T

PM213

Port de Soller

Port de Soller

PM210

Alaro

PM211

INCA C713

C711

PM27

PM210

LH

LandingPlatform

Selva

1090m

D O M

Map not to scale

Cala Llombards

South

Mini GUIDES

OPEA 15 min

3 1

Rope Way Down

Water Exit

Llombards South

Approach - Head south along the cliff edge and past some large boulders which block your path. From here you can see Llombards South and the path that runs around the cliff edge to the cave. A rope is needed to descend to the base of the crag. Use a rope to gain the left side of the cave. Exit - Install a rope on the exit point before you set off.

1 Sa tangent. . . . . . . . . . .

tc 6b+ S1

14m. The easiest of the three lines on this wall. Trickier near the top.

2 Locat Matador . . . pthc 7c S1

15m. Follow the line of Sa tangent to the lip of the cave and move out right to a block at the base of a flake. Climb this and the shallow groove above with care.

3 Esplendor Geometrico

2pc

8a+ S1 22m. Esplendor Geometrico is the big daddy of this wall. From where Locat Matador launches up the block, continue to the arete and navigate your way on the steep underside of the face. Pull round slightly left near the top to make those final moves to victory. Once again this is a venue that holds potential for future development. The long wall to the right (photo right) although friable and dusty in places, could well hold a long and sustained traverse to put many forearms to the test. Also the wall beyond Llombards South looks to hold some potential lines. Always check the depth and all safety aspects when exploring these new possibilities.

2

from rockfax.com


The spectacular cave of Porto Cristo Novo was first discovered by Ken Palmer and Adam Wainwright in 2002 and is Mallorca's equivalent to the Grandegrotta in Kalymnos with its giant stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave. This obvious appeal soon attracted a team exploring the cave's possibilities. Unfortunately the only line to have been done though was Neil Gresham's mega He Who Dares Rodders . Shortly after, the cave was also visited by Klem Loscot and his team but ascents weren't recorded. In September 2007 Ged Desforges, Cas Ladha and Nick Ward visited the area and put up six new lines in and around the cave and documented them. The main reason that this crag has not seen much development is because you need a boat to get to the routes. Also, the top of the crag is overgrown so most top-outs normally see people taking a long plunge. Another unfortunate issue is that tourist boats drive into the cave in the summer months, which makes climbing on the stalactites potentially dangerous. Outside school and public holidays - October onwards - this is less of a problem.

Approach

Porto Cristo Novo C715

Son S ervera

C715

PM332

MANACOR PM402

PMV401-2

Porto Cristo

PMV401-4 S on C714 M a c i a

Porto Cristo Novo

Crag Cala R omantica

S on Prohens

FELANITX

Calas de Mallorca

PMV401-2

Cala Murada

C714 PM401

Es Carritxo Cas Concos

LH

PMV401-2

Porto Colom

Map not to scale

Porto Cristo

A v d e V a s c o d a G a m a

Porto Colom

PMV401-4

Porto Cristo Novo

Crags

Cala R omantica

Map not to scale

From Porto Cristo, follow signs to Porto Colom (PMV 401-4 / MA-4014) and follow this road for about a mile to a small roundabout. Take the second exit and follow this road all the way to the coast where the road bends around to the right. Keep following it around until you are heading back inland on the road 'Paseo de la Infanta Carlota'. Park and locate signs to the beach, which lies below on your left. From the beach, head out along the lefthand side of the bay along the small cliff until you reach a small area where it is possible to enter the water. Use your boat to paddle around to the left until you reach the cave.

Porto Cristo Novo

Over-GrownArea

Cave

Right Wall Map not to scale

Porto Cristo Novo

PEA

The Main Cave

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com


Cala Llombards

IPEA

BOAT

North

BOAT

10 min

8 min

4

5

Way Down

1

2

3

Llombards North 2

3

1 Water Exit

The Main Cave There are only three lines at present in the cave which all require a dingy to access. The Exit point is to the right of the cave and is easy to attain in calm conditions.

1 Up the Anty . . . . . . . . 2pc 6c+ S1

25m. Start at the left-hand side of the main cave and climb diagonally right over some steep terrain to the featured upper wall. Don't pump out! FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007

2 He Who Dares Rodders 2pc 7b S1

19m. Start on the right-hand side of the cave. Traverse left around the arete and into the cave where you will eventually gain some huge black stalactites, just to the left of the arete. Pull around on undercuts to finish direct on the crimpy headwall, which may well see you in the drink. FA. Neil Gresham July 2002

Approach - Head to the small pinnacle which sticks out to sea, to the left of the steps. The cave is visible from here. Down climb the right side of the crag to reach Balams and Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy - no rope required. A boat is advised to reach the left-hand side although down climbing is still possible. Sa Rossaguera and Aresta . Follam Balam is much trickier so a dinghy is probably in order. Exit - A natural exit is possible on the left-hand side of the cave (looking in). It is probably more convenient and safer to install a rope to exit on the right-hand side of the cave. There is definitely more potential here for new lines especially near the stone staircase.

1 Sa Rossaguera. . . . . . . . . . .

4 Te Lo Juro Por Snoopy. . .

fc 8a+ S0

11m. A harder and more direct finish to Balam .

5 Balam . . . . . . . . 3pfc 7c S0

11m. From the ledge at half height, launch onto the roof and power your way up and right on good holds to the upper wall. More technical face climbing awaits before you reach the top. A favourite line for that photo opportunity in that no-hands rest.

6 Lama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S1 9m. A short face climb on the right-hand side of the cave.

c 6a S0

14m. From just above sea level, climb easily to the top.

3 Geordie Racer . . . . . . . .

1c

7a S1 17m. Climb the right side of the arete to just above the lip of the cave. Swing left for a couple of meters and finish to the right of He Who Dares Rodders . FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007

Nic Ward climbing Up the Anty 6c+. Photo by Ged Desforges

2 Aresta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 15m. Right above the mouth of the cave.

3 Follam Balam. . . . 2pfc 8a S0

22m. When the conditions are right, this is the one to bag! A boat is helpful to get the start. Navigate your way over the roof and join Balam . There is a lovely no-hands rest near the lip of the cave so take full advantage of that. The upper wall is quite thin and technical.

The cave of Llombards South Photo by Daimon Beail

Easy Way Down

6

Cala Llombards

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com


Porto Cristo Novo

Cala Llombards is for climbers seeking solitude away from the crowds. There are two crags; Llombards North, which is the main attraction; and Llombards South, which is a short walk south and gets few visits. The cliff face is cut into two - the lower wall is a sea cliff and very soloable, mostly above clean water with no rocks.

Sector Esperenza

OEA

BOAT

8 min

Approach From Santanyi follow signs for 'Es Llombards' and follow the PM610 to a roundabout. Take the second exit on the right sign posted 'Cala Llombards'. Follow this road for about 1km to a bend to the left. Continue for about another 2km until you reach a built-up area. Take the first major left turn signed 'Platja' as well as 'Cala Llombards'. Follow this for a short way and take the first right and continue down here to where the road curves around to the left and winds its way through the housing estate. Where the road splits in two, take the road on the right down to a dead end where you can park and walk down some stairs to the cliff edge. Alternatively you can continue on the left road at the split to a junction, turn right Es Llombards and right again which will take you down a semi-tarmaced road PM610 to another parking area, which is down by the cliff edge. Upon reaching the sea you can either head left for a short way to reach the cave of Llombards North, or head right along the sea cliff for about 10 minutes to Llombards South.

PMV401-2 Alqueria Blanca C714 C717

Es Llombards

PM610

C717 C717

Cala d'Or

4 1

Porto Petro

SANTANYI

3 2

610-2 Cala Figuerai

Cala Santanyi

CalaLlombards

Crags Sector Esperenza

A handful of shorter lines, which are easier than those in the cave. There are a number of ways to access the area but most people tend to traverse in from the right side of the cave along Retro Cruiser . Upon topping out you can either jump off or reverse to the right of Esperenza as there is no walk-off due to the vegetation. Exit at the cave. Approach - Routes 2, 3, 4 are approached by a long traverse from a water exit point way right (dingy required). Route 1 is approached from the water exit at the right-hand end of main cave.

Santanyi

Son Moger

610-2

Cala Santanyi Cala Figuerai CalaLlombards

Crag

1 Retro Cruiser . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6c S0

14m. From the left side of the wall, traverse the slab to the bulge. Use the pocket to climb over the bulge and gain the big flake. Finish direct from here.

2 My name is Jackie . . . . . . . .

c

7a S0 10m. Start from Baby Loader and make tricky moves into the left groove to join Retro Cruiser . FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007

3 Baby Loader. . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

6b+ S0 9m. From the ledge, move left and down, to swing left into the right of the two grooves. Climb up this, and move right to the large pocket, and finish direct. FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007

4 Esperenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 5 S0

9m. The easy crack.

FA. Ged Desforges Sep. 2007

FA. Cas Ladha Sep. 2007

Crag

Conditions As with all cave venues, you are always going to get some greasy rock from time to time. On the plus side these crags are exposed to the wind so this may well prevent large build up of moisture in the caves. The topouts to some of the lines are a little bit friable in places but this is slowly changing as more and more people attempt the lines.

The Main Cave

Llombards North Staircase

Llombards South Map not to scale

Sector Esperenza

Porto Colom

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

Hidden away underneath the Porto Colom Calas lighthouse is an exciting venue, which is PMV401-2 de FELANITX Mallorca more suited to the roof-hungry boulderer. Sa PM401 Plana The classics of the area are The Princess of V ella E s D o m i n go s Transilvania 7a+ and I Live in a Cave 6b. S ant S alvador Dominion Wall The lines on the lower section are short which suits most soloers but the longer routes PM401 POR TO C714 which top out are quite committing and generCOLOM PMV401-2 Cas Concos ally don't see that many ascents. Retreat is Lighthouse Area S 'Horta usually by jump or reversing I Live in a Cave . Cala Marcal Alqueria To the right side of the crag is a large B lanca Cala S a Nau platform where you can stow your gear and Cala S erena hang out. It is also one of the few soloing Cala Ferrera Cala C717 C717 d'Or venues were you can easily spectate without Map not to scale having to actually climb. Also in the area is the Dominion Wall which has a huge potential but only limited development at present.


Santanyi

Es Pontas

Es Pontas - the King Line The first ascent of Es Pontas was captured by Big Up Productions and appears in the film 'King Lines'. This photo comes courtesy of Josh Lowell at Big Up. www.bigUpProductions.com

PONTAX

8a+ line

7b line

7b line

PWA 5 min

Conditions The Lighthouse Area is situated in a sheltered cove. The main part of the crag gets the sun in the middle of the day. With all cave-style routes some of the holds c an get soapy but there is little seepage. Take plenty of chalk with you because it can get quite humid at times and grease you right off those holds.

Follow the PM-401 takes you all the way to Porto Colom. At the main roundabout turn left and follow the road round the bay and up towards the lighthouse. Take the last exit on the left just before the lighthouse and follow this for a short way round the sharp corner until you see a white house with a driveway on the right. On the left side of the entrance is the name 'Aldea Ibicenca N12' and on the right is a 'No Entry' sign for cars. Park somewhere on the left side of the road. Walk through the entrance (being discreet as this is an access road to property) and head straight across to find some concrete steps leading down to the sea. At the bottom of the steps, turn right and head for about 200m along the rocky path (which requires a little bit of easy traversing in one or two spots) until you arrive at the crag (see map on next page).

Dominion Wall

PM401

The Es Pontas arch is home to one of the hardest routes in the world. With no bolts to hang on, the line of Es Pontas requires time, patience and super human abilities to conquer. Approach - Gaining the arch is tricky and requires either a short swim from the mainland to the right side of the arch (indicated as Water Exit 1 on the topo) or use an inflatable boat to the same location. Be extremely careful if you are trying to get there in rough seas. Exit - Take a rope and an inflatable back-up device to help you exit from the water. Water Exits 2 and 3 on the topo are slightly easier and safer exit points.

1 Es Pontas . . . Porto Colom

LH

L E T O H

Cala Marcal

Lighthouse Area

Easy way up or down

1

Es Pontas

Approach

3sfgc

9a+ S2 23m. Start at the base of the pillar on a small ledge about 2m above the water. Tackle a V10 boulder problem over a small roof and onto the overhanging face to reach some slightly better holds. Continue for about 15 more moves using a series of pinches, pockets and the odd tufa before moving right into the barrel of the gun. At this point it's make or break as you take on a huge dynamic lunge from two undercuts to a large and impossibly hard to stick pocket. (Continuing up and then heading leftwards for another 6m via a series of finger pockets, and topping out on the seaward side of the arch gives you PONTAX 8c S1. This was done in November 2005 and was Chris Sharma's original finish to the line). From the pocket, continue up and right to cross the belly of the whale via a small juggy rail where you may quickly chalk up. Head out to reach the lip of the arch on the landward side and follow a series of fat slopes until you reach the central point of the arch. With willpower and anything else you can conjure, power on to the top. FA. Chris Sharma Sept. 26 2006. A truly amazing achievement!

BOAT

2 1

Water Exits 2 & 3 Water Exit 1

2 Stop Look and Listen . . . . . .

To Route 1

c

5+ S1 20m. A very easy anti-clockwise tour of the left pillar of Es Pontas. Two other lines have been reported but the authenticity of them has yet to be confirmed. The first is an 8a+ variant to Es Pontas that starts at the right-hand side of the arch, and crosses over, to top out on the seaward side. The second route is a 7b that climbs the left side of the arch, and pulls through onto the headwall where things start to go horizontal. A 7a as well as a 6b can be found on the vertical seaward side of the arch (left side looking in), as well as a few other fun outings. There is an isolated traverse on the other side of the cove to the west.

3 Treasure Island . . . . . . . . . .

c

6b S1 90m. Swim across the cove and traverse to the next bay. Something to do if you want to see the area. Keep wandering and you will eventually come to Cala Llombards. FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004

Santanyi

Cala Santanyi

OPUA 5 min

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com


Porto Colom

Lighthouse Area

PUA

BOAT

15 min

J

2

1

Platform

19 Exit Point

18

17

J

6

1 Super Sonic . . . . . 2fpc 7a S0

1

11m. Traverse left from the platform into the cave. Climb out across the lip of the cave on good holds until almost half way. Climb diagonally up from here.

2

J

5 13

3 4

7

8 10

FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003

2 Bird Watching . . . . . . . . . . .

J

J

11

14

12

9

c

16

6b S0 15m. From the platform, climb the flake and then traverse the break-line to the other platform. FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003

3 Naked Germans . . . . . . . . . .

15

Close-up on next page

Super Sonic Area

c 4+ S0

6m. This is also a good descent route. FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003

Lighthouse Area

4 Wave Machine . . . . . . . . . . c 5+ S0

6m. Traversing right into the cove leads to a slightly steeper wall. Climb up just right of the arete and past the left side of the lip.

Approach - All the lines are reached via the traverse Drop Zone 6b+. The only exception is Future Barny to Omprakash for which you need to use a dry-bag to get your gear to the other side and climb out onto a large ledge. S'atic to Cris Rabbit can be reached from I live in a Cave 6b+ and traversing left along the ledge, or one of the lines directly below them. Exit - Most people exit to the right of the crag onto the large platform. A rope is not needed but is handy when rough.

The Cove

FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2003

5 Vino Master . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0

Sport Crag

6m. Climb up to and over the right side of the lip. Careful as it's a bit loose at the top. FA. Julian Chapman Oct. 2003

C a l a S a n t an y i

6 Mr. Smith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S1

18m. It gets a bit shallow towards the back of the cave, which is where you should really finish this one.

Staircase

FA. Steve Smith Oct. 2003

Map not to scale

16m. Climb the overhanging arete to easier climbing above.

2 Wenga Xavi . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

7b S1 16m. Traverse in past the overhanging arete and climb the wall to its right. Pull over the overlap to an easier wall above.

3 No Me Puedo Quejar. . . .

1c

4 Omprakash . . . . . . . . . .

1c

7a+ S1 17m. The finish marked on the topo continues over a small roof. Alternatively move right to join the roof section of Omparakash . Both finishes are thoroughly enjoyable. 7b S1 17m. Difficult climbing up a blank corner to an increasingly steep wall above. Manoeuvre across the roof on good holds to the top.

5 Ren Culo Superchulo . 1fc 7b S0

Cala Santanyi Approach - The Super Sonic Area is reached by swimming or boating across to the platform (as marked on the topo). Alternatively you can walk there from the beach. Routes on the left side of The Cove require you to swim across to the slightly submerged platform. Then traverse right from here. Mr. Smith is gained by climbing down the right side of the cove.

1 Future Barny . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S1

12m. The last boulder line to be found on this lower wall. After traversing in along Drop Zone , move across the roof on small crimps and up the blank wall. This sees most people in the drink.

6 Lu.Ci-Ana . . . . . . . . . . .

LH 3

4

5

Lighthouse Area

1c

7b S1 20m. The link-up between Ren Culo Superchulo and the top half of Omprakash . Also quite popular as an alternative midclimb exit from the routes to its right.

6

Map not to scale

Porto Colom

Lighthouse Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

PUA 15 min

9

7

8

5


Santanyi

The small bay of Cala Santanyi is best left to those seeking a bit of fun when the weather gets too hot for sport climbing on the cliffs of Tijuana. The soloing here is limited, however the routes are great fun, especially Super Sonic. The rock can be brittle in places and the bay itself has been known to be hit by freak waves - all this adds to the excitement of the place. Take care in the Cove Area since the water is shallow in places and a boat is useful for reaching the Super Sonic Area. When news began to emerge that Chris Sharma was working something big in Mallorca back in 2005 it was no surprise that the project was on the arch of Es Pontas. This impressive arch, is isolated from the mainland, and situated slightly further down the coast and is easily reached via a short drive from the beach at Cala Santanyi. It is easy to get to in calm seas but much more difficult when the conditions are rough. Chris’s efforts are now legendary and have left us with one of the World’s hardest routes - Es Pontas.

Approach Cala Santanyi - From Santanyi, follow signs for Cala Santanyi out of the village. Take the second turning signed to Cala Santanyi, off this road (ignore the first turning). Then take the first left turn followed by a right turn (signed ‘HR Palmaria’). Continue along this road, past a roundabout with a tree and park by the barrier which is across the private road that leads to a tower. Leave nothing valuable in the car. From here walk towards the tower and turn right at the end. Follow the path and descend to the platform below. When you reach the sea, turn right and walk along the mini cliff until you get to The Cove. Es Pontas - Follow signs all the way to Cala Santanyi. When you reach the bottom of the steep hill you will find signs to Es Pontas. Follow the road back up the bay, past a car park, and turn left to head up a steep hill. Once at the top of the hill, turn left to take the coastal road and keep a sharp eye out for the Es Pontas signs. If you are lucky you will find yourself eventually reaching a dead end. Park here but do not block the entrance to the wooded area or park on the yellow lines. Enter the wood and turn right. Follow the track until you reach a wall and a path which veers off left towards the cliff. This leads down to the Es Pontas arch. 610-2

Drop Zone

7 The Rabbit is Dead . . . . . . . .

c

8 Mataconejos . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

7a S0 12m. The left-hand variation to Mataconejos which crosses the roof and heads out over to the arete on the upper wall.

Cala S antanyi

7a S0 12m. Climb the roof to gain the upper wall and the crack line which curves around to the left. Pull around the side of the roof and finish as for The Rabbit is Dead .

PMV401-2

Alqueria B lanca

9 Princess of Transilvania 3pc 7a S0

C714

12m. An absolute classic! Climb the stalactite rib on the roof using good pockets to the lip. Pull up on big holds to the stalactite formation and a rest. Move up and right to gain the upper face and layback your way up the crack to the ledge. Walk off right or jump into the sea.

C717

Es Llombards PM610

Cala d'Or

S ANT ANY I

Map not to scale

Porto Petro

Crags Tijuana Sport Crag

610-2

Cala S antanyi

Andrew Chapman making an early exit from Princess of Transilvania 7a. Photo: Daimon Beail

E s P ontas

C717 C717

Cala Llombards

Cala Santanti

Cala Figuerai

Crags Map not to scale

Es Pontas Arch Route 3

Cala Serena

Prest Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

OPEA


Porto Colom J

5 min

16

PUA

J

J

Lighthouse Area

15 min

J

19

17 18

15

20

12 21

22

Prest Area

11

A nice selection of routes on good rock. A rope is useful for descending to the base of the cliff and also make sure a rope is set up for a water exit. Probably the best location for the exit is under the way down, but check other locations as well.

t Es Xirimollo. . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a S0

y Xapapote. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 8a+ S0

u Superguapa . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 8a S0

14m.

10 9 Drop Zone

p Prest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

a Gasolina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

8m.

13m.

9m.

12m.

s Europa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 9m.

i Malle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S0 11m.

d Sense Casc . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

0 Tequila-men . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7b+ S0

f Trobador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6a S0

q Baby Nate . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

12m.

o Diedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10m.

c 6c S0

12m.

12m. Big roof climbing to the upper wall.

7a+ S0 12m. A shot corner to overcome with some tricky roof climbing thrown into the equation.

w I live in a Cave. . . . . . 2pc 6b+ S0

12m. A popular line. A short roof leads to a small deep cave squirm in for a rest. Unfortunately there is also a big rest possible on a ledge on the right, but this is off route. From the cave, continue up and right to a small roof and a sharp jug out right. Heave your way over onto the upper wall and to the ledge. The rest of the routes are shown on the topo on page 12.

Way Down

22

23

24

t Topspin. . . . . . . . . . . . .

1c

7a S0 14m. The right-hand version of Titan . Again this line finishes rather high and a down-climb is recommended if jumping off.

y Drop Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

6b+ S0 35m+. This is the only way to access the lines on the lower wall but makes a fun outing in its own right. This line is normally finished just past the start of Rene Culo Superchulo where there is a small shelf to rest. It is possible to continue to the other side but this is rarely done. Watch out for the polish at the start.

u S'atic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b+ S2

12m. The first of three lines taking you over the final roof and to the top of the crag. Many people do this as a continuation to The Rabbit is Dead .

c

e Mi LLamo Chris . . . . . . . . . .

c

i Niagara Will Fall . . . . . . . . .

r Titan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

o Cris Rabbit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S2

7a S0 18m. The only route on this part of the wall which tops out. Climb the left side of the bulging face. Take care near the top. 6c+ S0 12m. Traverse onto the face and cross the white streak diagonally then power your way up onto the small ledge. It's quite far to jump from this height so a reverse a bit first.

7b S2 12m. A hero's medal awaits anyone trying this one! A possible continuation to Princess of Transilvania . 12m. Some serious highball action and watch that ledge at the start.

Porto Colom

Dominion Wall

Mini GUIDES

Dominion Wall

Slightly further north of the lighthouse is the hidden Dominion Wall. It is a great playground and should be visited by any pioneer who wishes to seek out further possibilities in the area. With over 300+ metres of crag to explore there is surely a classic or two here waiting to be discovered. Take a rope and abseiling gear as well as a dingy to explore the Dominion's potential. Approach - Drive through Porto Colom as if approaching the lighthouse. As the road turns head right up the left side of the bay (looking out) to a dirt track heading north east. Follow this to a rocky bay by the sea and a path along the cliff edge. Park here and head through a gate to the top to the hill. Continue until you can see an easy way down the cliff to a platform. Scramble down about 4m to a sloping ledge leading down towards the sea. Continue down and round to the right (looking out) to an easy way down towards the sea. Traverse right (looking in) back around the corner (now at a lower level) towards the wall and the start of the routes. All lines are reached by traversing along Techno Mancore which is fairly easy at the start. The only problem is the section beyond Dominion Wall where you have to complete the traverse. Conditions - The wall is made up of sandstone and limestone. It has not seen much traffic so the top-out is still a bit loose in places. Exit - Not too many problems here as a short swim round the corner leads to a ledge and an easy exit. Ropes are always advised for rough conditions. Exploration - For those seeking the future realm, grab a dingy and head right (looking out to sea) to explore this giant landscape. There is one obvious area which is a large cave on the left side of the wall (photo below). Remember to check the water's depth if attempting any of these lines.

1 Techno Mancore! . . . . . . . . .

c

7a S0 20m. The main way to access all the lines on this wall. Watch out for those tricky bits near the end. FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06

2 2D 3D . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1c 6b+ S0

17m. The first route to be put up on this wall. Make a diagonal crossing past a large horn which you can sit on for a rest. The rest is highball climbing on large jugs. FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06

3 IMAX. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b+ S0

17m. Follow 2D 3D to the upper wall and make an airy traverse out over the lip of this bulging feature and onto the nose. The rest is easy. FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06

from rockfax.com


Cala Serena

Mi Primera Flinada Area

OPEA

PEF

5 min

15 min

3

5 4

11 7

8

12

10 9

13

14

2

1

4 The Camp Jogger . . . . 2pc 6c+ S0

8 Terra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1

FA. Adam Lincoln 25.09.06

9 Guantanamo . . . . . . . . . . . .

16m. Probably the best line here. Traverse along Techno Mancore to the bulging overhanging feature. Pumpy climbing on good holds takes you up to a mini-roof section and on to victory.

5 Dominion Wall. . . . . . . .

c 7b S1

14m.

1c

6b S1 18m. This line is very odd and quite adventurous. From the platform, climb the left side of the face using a crack and various hidden jugs. When you reach the break, traverse right until you reach an exit point up a shallow corner. FA. Daimon Beail 25.09.06

14m.

0 Mi Primera Flinada. . . . . . 3c 6b S1

14m. An awesome route. Traverse to where the lower cave begins and head up some super slopers and side-pulls to reach the bulging upper wall. Power on to the top using some humongous and ever-so-slightly sharp jugs.

q Banyada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8m.

c 7b S0

Mi Primera Flinada Area The routes from Espases to Mi Primera Flinada are definitely worth seeking out. They feel a bit high at the top but are still less than 15m. Banyada to Submarina need to have calm conditions as it can get very wet at the start.

w Acuatic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7b+ S0

e Abugraib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7b+ S0

r Submarina. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7b+ S0

8m.

9m.

9m.

Cala Serena

Tort Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

OEA 4 min


Cala Sa Nau

Cala Sa Nau is a s mall sandy cove, sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of which is home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right (looking out) starts quite small and offers one or two mid-grade lines. The crag increases in height further right eventually leading to a large cave. This is where the hard routes are with their big fall potential. The amazing Hupolup Kempf crosses the roof of the cave at the lofty grade of 8b. Further right, around the headland, is a small cove with a mini-cave at the back. This is a good starter spot known as the 'Virgin Area'. The climbing is limited but it can keep you entertained for a few hours with mostly short, mid-grade lines.

Approach

Way Down

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

From Felanitx, navigate your way around the one-way streets to find the PM-401 signposted to Porto Colom. Follow this to meet the road from Porto Cristo. Turn right, keeping on the PM-401 to Porto Colom. When you eventually come to the junction, turn left and then quickly make a right onto the PMV401-2 to Santanyi. Follow this to the little village of S’Horta. Turn left, following signs to Cala Ferrera, and after a short distance is a sign pointing to Cala Sa Nau on the left. Follow this road to its end and park. From the narrow parking area, walk along the right-hand side of the bay until you reach some steps cut into the rock. From here you can cut across right to reach the Virgin Area or continue straight on to the Hupolup Kempf Cave.

Sa Plana Vella

PM401

Water Exit

Calas de Mallorca

PMV401-2

FELANITX

Es Domingos

Sant Salvador

Tort Area The routes here all start off with wonderful holds, only to deliver you at a blank upper section that may well see you in the drink. Approach - Either follow the way down the line drawn on the topo, or traverse in from the Sosec area. Exit - Normally back at the Sosec area, or a rope can be installed as marked on the topo.

PM401

PORTO

C714

COLOM

PMV401-2

Cas Concos

Cala Marcal

S'Horta Alqueria Blanca

Cala Sa Nau

Crag

1 Romani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0

C717

8m.

C717

Cala d'Or

Cala Serena Cala Ferrera Cala Egos

2 Dimiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0 8m.

3 Tort. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 8m.

4 BBC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

Cala Sa Nau

8m.

5 Cantabrica. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

6 Sa Multa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

Bounty Sector

8m.

Hupolup Cave

8m.

7 Espases. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 14m.

Dieter Werther on the three-star line of Mi Primera Flinada 6b

Virgin Area Map not to scale

Ged Desforges on Attack of the Killer Spindly Fish 7a+. Photo: Steve Burdett.

Cala Sa Nau

Virgin Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

OPUA 10 min


Cala Serena

Sosec Area

OEA 4 min

Bolt

7

4

8 Way Down

6 2

3

5

1

Virgin Area Approach - Virgins Are Only Human is gained by a simple down-climb and a little walk along a ledge until you start climbing. Attack Of The Spindly Killer Fish to Little Fish are traditionally approached from the water or by reversing Frogger . Exit - Under the start of Virgins Are Only Human . Conditions - Big holds but a little greasy when humid.

1 Virgins Are Only Human .

1c 6a+ S0

12m. Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof.

8 Little Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

5+ S2 15m. Start as for Frogger and make your way along the cliff until you reach the sandy arete, which you finish up. Half way through the traverse is a little cave. The climbing here is above a small ledge, so take care! FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004

6

There is also a line inside the cave (on the right-hand side), which goes at 7a. Unfortunately this line is often damp, and has not been included on the topo.

Broker

1

2

3

4

5

7

FA. Bernard Exley Oct. 2004

2 Attack of the Spindly Killer Fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2sc 7a+ S0

8m. Climb the arete on the right-hand side of the cave to a break below the bulge. Move up and right to make some hard moves over the bulge. FA. Nic Ward June 2006

3 Gen Lock . . . . . . . . . . .

2c

6a S0 8m. Starting from the water ledge, make your way up to the roof and find those hidden buckets, then power to the top. FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004

4 I Tell Thee. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 4+ S0

10m. Start as for Gen Lock and then make a rising traverse right to the exit. FA. Daimon Beail Oct. 2004

5 Coldron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 5 S0

8m. Start slightly right of I Tell Thee and make a direct ascent of the wall to the same exit. FA. James Cole Oct. 2004

6 Frogger . . . . . . . . 2stc 4+ S1

11m. Start from the same ledge as Coldron , traverse rightwards to the arete and then climb to the top. Watch out for the little ledge below. FA. Heidi Spets Oct. 2004

7 C++ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 4+ S0 9m. Start as for Frogger , and then climb the faint arete. FA. Peter Brown Oct. 2004

Maria Becerril getting to grips with Frogger 4+. Photo: Daimon Beail

Water Exit

Water Exit

Sosec Area Tis is probably the most popular section of the crag. All the routes are a good height and each one comes in two parts - a pocketed lower wall and a thin and technical upper wall. Approach - Climb down the rope from a bolt at the top of the crag to the platform below (good place to stow some of your gear). Continue down a gully on the rope to the start of The Tortilla Traverse which leads to all the routes in this sector. Exit - It is vital to install an exit rope before you start as it is impossible to exit the water without it.

1 Mapau. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1c

6a+ S0 9m. Pocketed first half followed by an awesome crimp feast on the top wall.

2 Vip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2c 6b+ S0

3 Rasputin . . . . . . . . . . . .

1c 6a S0

9m. A little more taxing and committing than Mapau .

9m. Large pockets take you to the thin upper wall which has many golden crimps everywhere.

4 Sosec . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2c

5 Mano Negra . . . . . . . . .

2c

6a+ S0 8m. Easy climbing to the grove on the left side of the block. 6c S0 8m. Long moves to the lip and some powerful climbing above on sharp holds.

6 The Tortilla Traverse . . . . . . .

c

7a+ S0 80m+. Start at the bottom of the way down and traverse to Vinga Bou in the Sa Fundacio Area. Climb up this or, alternatively, you swim back to the start. An average grade of 7a+ has been given but it's so long that you deserve a 7b tick for sure. FA. Many explorers and one recogniser on 29.09.06

7 Bag Puss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1

14m. Straightforward climbing up a pocketed and crimpy wall. The angle eases the higher you get. FA. James Cole Sept. 06

Cala Serena

Dreta and Meteoro Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

OEA 4 min


Cala Sa Nau

Hupolup Cave

OPUA 14 min

4 1

2

5

6

3 Way Down 2

1 Hupolup Kempf. . . 3fsc 8b S2

19m. Showing the way of things to come, Klem Loskot's testpiece goes up the right-hand side of the cave to the roof which is then crossed using crimpy holds. Prepare yourself for some serious air time. FA. Klem Loskot 2003

2 The Weather Man - Left-hand Start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

16

11 12

13 14

17

18

19

c 7a S0

w Ali Muma Ye . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

FA. Chris Sharma 2003

3 The Weather Man

3fsc

8a+ S2 18m. Similar ground as Hupolup Kempf but at a slightly easier grade. Nevertheless it requires an immense amount of mind control when making those final moves to the jug.

15

Water Exit

q Alcaeda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3fsc 8a+ S2

18m. A left-hand start to the next route.

FA. Chris Sharma 2003

4 Vadage . . . . . . . . 1stc 7c S1

y Soller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a S0

u Es Baluart . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a+ S0

5 Cheers Chartle . . . . . . 1pc 6c+ S0

e Meteoro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

i Calvia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a+ S0

6 Wesatrocity . . . . . . . . . .

r Nomas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6a S0

o Broker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

9m.

9m.

9m.

9m.

9m.

9m.

t Aromes de Margrony. . . . . . .

c 6a S0

9m.

6a+ S0 9m. The last line on the large rail which belongs to the Sosec area. From the large bucket power up on spaced holds to a thin upper wall.

16m. Make a more direct ascent to the bulge and continue over making some harder moves to reach easier ground.

9m. The bulging wall on chalked up pockets is a popular one.

1c 6a+ S0

8m. The first line you come to just left of Way Down 2 .

7

8

Hupolup Kempf Cave Hard and intimidating lines for the more daring deep water soloers. Luckily, things ease off moving rightwards. Descend - Either Way Down 1 which is a 4 scramble and traverse off left (facing the rock) into the back side of the cave. Or use Way Down 2 which is an easy 5. Exit - Tricky in rough waters and should be avoided. In calmer seas it is easy to clamber out directly under the mouth of the large cave.

7 Scalfament . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6a S1

8 Scalfament 2 . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6a+ S1

18m. Follow the left-hand dark streak to the top.

18m. Follow the right-hand dark streak to the top.

Bounty Sector

The Bounty Sector has an easy descent scramble (Way Down 3) to reach Under a Dark Sky and a short down climb slightly further along the crag is needed to access Bounty . Exiting both lines is either done by a rope or a tricky climb out of the cave. The next two routes are at the north east end of the crag.

9 Bounty. . . . . . . . . . . . 1fc 6c

S0 14m. A good left-to-right traverse. Climb down into the scoop and traverse the finger-rail to join the last part of Under a Dark Sky .

0 Under a Dark Sky . . . . . .

2c

6b S0 11m. Climb up and left to a series of flutings and a break under the roof. Move slightly left and over the lip on good holds.

Cala Sa Nau

9m. Climb the right-hand side of the tufa.

OPUA

Way Down 3

14 min

Way Down 2 Bounty Sector

9

Way Down 1

10 Hupolup Sector Map not to scale

Way Down 3

Cala Mitjana

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

Down the coast from Cala Sa Nau is Cala Mitjana - a fantastic cliff of good height offering a small range of steep mid-grade lines. There are two recorded lines in the 7s to challenge the more daring soloer. Cala Mitjana is only a 15-minute walk from the main cliff at Cala Sa Nau and is easily recognisable from the ship-like mast which is situated on top of the cliff. Several strong teams of climbers have visited the c rag but unfortunately no official record was made on these visits except for magazine articles and documentary film footage. It is highly possible that there are a number of other lines on this crag, but until these are declared, here is a selection for you to enjoy.


Cala Serena

Dreta and Meteoro Area

OEA 4 min

Approach It is possible to drive to the bay of Cala Mitjana but it is quite difficult to access the crag. Instead most people visit Mitjana on the same day they climb at Cala Sa Nau, since it is only a short walk over the hill. From the Virgin Area at Cala Sa Nau (see page 17) head up the hill with the sea on your left. At the top is the ship's mast - head for that.

Mega Virgin Area at Cala Sa Nau

1

2

3

4

5 6

7

8

9

10

Wall

4

The Dreta and Meteoro Areas

1 6 6

Cala Mitjana

Map not to scale

Calas de Mallorca

PMV401-2

FELANITX

Es Domingos

Sant Salvador

PORTO

C714

COLOM

PMV401-2

Cas Concos

Alqueria Blanca

Cala Sa Nau Cala Mitjana

C717

C717

Cala d'Or

Cala Ferrera Cala Egos

An Island classic, Illuminations 6b+.

Crag

c 7a S0

9m.

6 Dreta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0 9m.

7 Coloms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6a S0

8 Toques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

9 S’aixeta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a S0

9m.

c 6b S0

9m.

3 Dolby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 9m.

Cala Marcal

S'Horta

c 6b S0

9m.

2 Mengen Fetge . . . . . . . . . . . PM401

5 Pop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9m.

1 Setze Jutges . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sa Plana Vella

PM401

A fine selection of routes. If you are planning to spend a lot of time here install a rope to use for descending to the base as well as a rope to exit the sea. In this area it is easy to top out by traversing right to the point above Noman where there is only a small amount of vegetation to battle through. Exit - The main water exit should be installed under the Sosec Area. It is also possible to install and exit under Soller.

4 Tot Petit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S0 9m.

9m.

0 Down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 9m.

Cala Serena

Tokio Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com


Cala Mitjana

OPEA

OPEA

25 min

4 min

Easy Way Down

2

3

1

Water Exit

2

Cala Mitjana

1 3

4

5

6

7

8

Aspergilo Area

Approach - There is an easy grade 4 down-climb 10m to the right (looking in) of Illuminations . Then traverse for 10m to the start of Illuminations . For Animal Magnetism abseil in to the giant thread in the wall. Midnight Mast and Mitjana Party are easily accessed by making a short down-climb (grade 3) as marked on the topo and traversing right to a ledge. Exit - To the left of the crag (as marked on the topo) which requires a sharp but fairly easy climb. To reach Rich Bitch down climb to the right of the route (looking in) and then make a short traverse. There are many exit points dotted around here.

1 Midnight Mast . . . . . . . . . . .

Around into the bay to the right is a small cliff. In the middle is a small cave and above this is a line of pockets, leading up an otherwise blank face.

6 Rich Bitch . . . . . . . . . . .

2c

7a S1 7m. Start just to the right of the hole at the back of the cave on the ledge. Leap to the first pocket, and heave yourself up the wall. Make a tricky move onto a small ledge and finish with a few thin moves near the top. FA. Ged Desforges June 2006

c

6b+ S0 8m. Trickier than it looks. Needs some laybacking near the top.

Water Exit

Way Down

FA. 2002

2 Mitjana Party. . . . . . . . . Tokio Area The cave to the right of the Aspergilo Area also tends to have a rope in place to exit the water. The line Tokio is a golden gem to try with the tricky bit at the top to get your heart pumping. Top-outs are the same as for the Aspergilo area.

1 Es Pate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a S0

2 Es bol.leti . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

17m.

13m.

3 Es Papa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7b S0 10m.

4 Medalles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9m.

c 7a+ S0

5 La Xina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

9m.

6 Tokio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c

6b+ S0 9m. From the right-hand side of the cave climb the overhanging wall on big holds to reach the vertical wall. A few thin moves and the odd mega pinch lead to a sloppy finish on the head of a tufa. It is quite easy to just wander over onto Galactics at the end which reduces the grade to 6b.

7 Galactics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

9m. Start just outside the cave and climb similar territory to Tokio with an easier finish.

8 Mega . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 9m.

sc

7a+ S1 16m. Traverse rightwards to the bulge and up to the roof. Make some tricky moves over the lip and power on to the top. FA. 2002

3 Animal Magnetism . . . . .

5

sc (8b+)

10m. Not yet climbed - a suggested grade of 8b+ has been rumoured. Abseil down the cliff to a large thread and hook your leg into it. Make some dynamic moves out left followed by some shallow pockets to tackle the blank wall above.

4 Illuminations . . . . . . . 3fc 6b+ S0

9m. Probably the best line at Mitjana. Traverse left into a giant side-pull which takes you straight into the crux. Gain the break via some shallow pockets and continue up. Move left slightly into a recess to a rest before continuing to the top. FA. 2002

5 New Forms . . . . . . . . 3fc 6b+ S0 12m. Climb Illuminations to the break and traverse left for about 4m until you see a pocketed line rising above you. Use these to ride to the top. Another great line. FA. 2002

4

3

Cala Serena

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com

Cala Serena is now the biggest venue on the Island, with almost 100 routes in total, most of which consist of golden juggy walls low down, and thinner, technical sections near the finish. It was developed, mostly by local Mallorcans, in 2003. The cliffs rise to about 18m in places, but almost all the lines finish way below this mark with a maximum fall of around 15m if you are unlucky. Topping out is generally a breeze with most of the shorter lines finishing on some sort of a ledge. The rest of the climbing to the top of the cliff is on easier-angled slabs (about grade 2 or 3). There are some more vegetated top-outs but these can be avoided by heading down a rope to try other lines or traversing to another section of the cliff. Serena is not all good news. The left side of cliff (looking in) is sharp and grey. Most people generally avoid this area, which is from Mallorca es Fonki to the start of the Adosat Area. Another downside is that towards the late afternoon, hundreds of jellyfish have been seen streaming by. This is not a constant feature, but something to watch out for.


Cala Serena Aspergilo Area

OPEA 4 min

Safety - Water Exits Before venturing onto any of the routes make sure you have a rope in place to get out of the water since escaping is a big problem here. Also having an inflatable around is a good idea. Some of the lines require you to ‘dry-bag it’ to an area, where there may be fixed ropes but you may have to install the ropes yourself by traversing across to that area or abseiling in. Water exits are marked on topos where it is possible to install a rope. Sa Fundacio Cave

Approach Cala Serena is very close to Cala Mitjana. So just follow the same direction as you would for Cala Sa Nau (see page 16) to get to the village of S’Horta. Then follow signs for 'Cala Ferrera' and continue on the main road ( past the turning for Cala Sa Nau) to a roundabout. Take the second exit, and follow this to the end (where the road curves around to the left and ends) - park here. Walk down a driveway, which leads to an abandoned swimming pool overlooking the cliff edge. This area is the remains of a closed holiday park, which is slowly being bought up by private owners. It is very easy to just walk right across their land without realising it. But generally where the grass is greener, that is private land. Good behaviour is essential here especially around the entrance to the cliff top. The future of Serena depends on it! Calas de Mallorca

PMV401-2

FELANITX

Sa Plana Vella

PM401

F e n c e

Es Domingos

Sant Salvador

Vinga Bou

1

2

3

Water Exit

Aspergilo Area This is a great area to get stuck into if the lines out of the caves are dry. There are usually ropes dangling in the water from the cave where Manca and Les Ajudes start and most people dry-bag it to this point. The tops have become overgrown, so either battle your way through the plant life to the wall, and onto the top path, or head back down a rope, which you fixed earlier from the top.

1 Llet negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 7a S0

2 Aspergilo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S1

3 Manca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

13m.

13m.

13m.

4 Les Ajudes . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0

Cala F e r r e r a

13m. PM401 C714

Cala Marcal

S'Horta Alqueria Blanca

PORTO COLOM

PMV401-2

Cas Concos

Ca la S e r e na

CalaSerena Area

Cala Sa Nau

Crag C717

C717

Cala d'Or

Cala Serena Cala Ferrera Cala Egos

4

Map not to scale

Cala Serena

Sa Fundacio Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com


Cala Serena

Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area

OEA

PE&A 4 min

8 min

Way Down

Way Down

Way Down 4 2

7 6

8

3

2

1

9 5

15 10

3

11

12

13 14 16 17

18

19

20

1

4

Mallorca es Fonki and Bombas Area

Sa Fundacio Area This cave is often damp and many of the routes seldom dry out near the base. You may want to use a rope to gain the starts and install one for exiting the water.

Heidi Spets, pulling hard on one of Serena's many 6cs.

This area is generally avoided by most people due to the short routes and sharp and brittle nature of the rock. Approach - Most routes are generally easy to get to by down climbing, either of the 'way down' lines drawn on the topo. A rope is needed to exit the water so make sure one is in place before attempting any of the lines here.

c 6b S0

12m.

18m.

3 Bou. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0

18m. Rumour has it that this one climbs the roof of the cave, left to right on big holds!!

4 Vinga Bou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18m.

c 6b S0

q Tacon Cubano . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

w Pasate el microfono . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

7m.

1 Chanelance . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

2 Vacaciones en el mar . . . . . .

c 6c S0

7m.

3 Mallorca es Fonki . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

8m.

4 Escupe La Flema . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

8m.

5 Batalla de Cazalla . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

5m.

c 6c S0

5m.

c 6c S0

5m.

c 6c S0

5m.

9 Golpe Bajo . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

5m.

8m.

2 Sa Fundacio . . . . . . . . . . . . c 7a S0

c 6b S0

8m.

7m.

8m.

1 Diedre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

0 El Mas Fardon . . . . . . . . . . .

8m.

8m.

8m.

6 Estilo Pancho Villa . . . . . . . . 9m.

7 La Escuela . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9m.

8 Zafarrancho . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8m.

8m.

e Bombas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 r Sifon y jena . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 t Don Simon. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

y La Manicura. . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

u La Corna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6c S0

i Cap Torero Sense Banyas . . .

c 6b S0

o Guais Estails . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

p Nora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

Cala Serena Adosat Area

Mini GUIDES

from rockfax.com


Cala Serena Adosat Area

OEA 6 min

C ala S e r e na F e n c e Adosat Area Mallorca Es Fonki to Bombas Area

7 Sa Fundacio Area

Way Down

Aspergilo to Sosec Area

3

Tort to Prest Area

4

5

8

6

4 Vuitmil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c 6b S1

Adosat Area

8m.

5 Efecto Especial Verbal. . . . . .

Way Down

c 6b S0

8m.

6 Toreros Muertos . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0 10m.

7 Albornoz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S1

8 Mocs i Po . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S1

9 Moc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S2

0 Efecto Especial Verbal. . . . . .

c 6b S0

1 Anselm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S1

11m.

2 Especula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S1

17m.

3 Adosat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S1

10m.

10m.

12 10 11

Water Exit

Map not to scale

Things begin to improve and the rock slowly turns to the golden pocketed walls people are used to in Mallorca. Approach (Routes 1 to 7 - next page) - Most routes are generally easy to get to by down climbing, either of the 'way down' lines drawn on the topo. A rope is needed to exit the water so make sure one is in place before attempting any of the lines here. Exit - The right-hand side (looking in) of the cave entrance.

9

Approach (Routes 8 to 12) - Walking south along the clifftop path you come to a set of stairs set away from the cliff edge (photo right). These lead down to the entrance of the cave which has bars across it. Squeeze through and carefully follow the carved stone and concrete stairs to the bottom. There is no need for a torch but go carefully and watch out for one or two obstacles on the way and the glare of the sun shining in.

Way Down

10m.

Path

10m.

6m.

OEA 6 min

12

q Toreros Muertos . . . . . . . . . c 6b S0

13

6m.

w Mini Me. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

c 6b S0

6m.

Way Down Way Down

3 2 1 Nora

Serena's cliffs are a perfect height for deep water soloing and jumping off if things get too hot. Photo: Andrew Chapman

Mallorca DWS Book

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