Animal friends of Pica Pau Gather all 20 colorful amigurumi animal characters © 2017 Yan Schenkel and Meteoor Books
First published November 2017 by Meteoor Books, Antwerp, Belgium www.meteoorbooks.com
[email protected] Have you made characters with patterns from this book? Share your creations on Facebook or Instagram with #animalfriendsofpicapau. #animalfriendsofpicapau. Photography: Yan Photography: Yan Schenkel & Matías Gorostegui Illustrations: Yan Illustrations: Yan Schenkel Editorial Design & Layout: Bosque Estudio
PLEASE NOTE THIS BOOK IS COPYRIGHTED. TENGA EN CUENTA QUE ESTE LIBRO ESTÁ PROTEGIDO POR DERECHOS DE AUTOR. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. The book is sold subject to the condition that all designs are copyright and are not for commercial or educational reproduction without the permission of the designer and copyright owner. The publisher and authors can accept no legal responsibility for any consequences arising from the application of information, advice or instructions given in this publication.
Animal friends of Pica Pau Gather all 20 colorful amigurumi animal characters © 2017 Yan Schenkel and Meteoor Books
First published November 2017 by Meteoor Books, Antwerp, Belgium www.meteoorbooks.com
[email protected] Have you made characters with patterns from this book? Share your creations on Facebook or Instagram with #animalfriendsofpicapau. #animalfriendsofpicapau. Photography: Yan Photography: Yan Schenkel & Matías Gorostegui Illustrations: Yan Illustrations: Yan Schenkel Editorial Design & Layout: Bosque Estudio
PLEASE NOTE THIS BOOK IS COPYRIGHTED. TENGA EN CUENTA QUE ESTE LIBRO ESTÁ PROTEGIDO POR DERECHOS DE AUTOR. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. The book is sold subject to the condition that all designs are copyright and are not for commercial or educational reproduction without the permission of the designer and copyright owner. The publisher and authors can accept no legal responsibility for any consequences arising from the application of information, advice or instructions given in this publication.
YAN SCHENKEL
ANIMAL FRIENDS OF
INDEX 6
INTRODUCTION
30 31
Start from a foundation chain 06 Bobble stitch (abbreviation: 3-dc bobble or 5-dc-bobble)
10
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
33 35
07 Single rib crochet (post or relief stitch) Increases and decreases
10
Crochet hook
12 12
Anatomy of a crochet hook Sizes
35 36
Increase (abbreviation: inc) Decrease (abbreviation: dec)
12
Crochet hook conversions
36 37
Traditional decrease Invisible decrease
13
Materials
38 38
Working in spirals Magic ring
13 13
Yarns Natural bers
40
Crocheting around a foundation chain
13 13
Cellulose bers Protein bers
43 44
Changing color and joining yarn Jacquard
14 14
Synthetic bers Fiber weight
45 46
Tapestry Fastening off
46 46
Weave in the yarn end on a at fabric Weave in the yarn end on a stuffed piece
16 16
Other essential tools and supplies Yarn needles and tapestry needles
47 48
Embroidery Joining parts (sewing)
16 16
Pins Scissors
48
Joining open pieces
50
Joining an open end piece with a closed piece
17 17
Stitch markers Stufng
17
Facial features
51 51
Reading a pattern Parentheses and brackets
53
When crocheting my patterns
18
CROCHET INTRODUCTION 54
PATTERNS
18
Hold the hook and yarn
19
(hand position) Pencil grip
56 62
Pedro Von Dito Pig Hans Grizzly Bear
19 19
Knife grip Hold the yarn
66
Murray Sea Otter
70 74
René Yacaré Caiman Ramón Donkey
19
Stitches
20 21
Slip knot 01 Chain stitch (abbreviation: ch)
80 84
Lola Panda Rosa Cheetah
21
Foundation chain
90 96
Víctor Frog George McPlatypus
21 22
Turning chain Counting stitches
102 106
Marcos Coatí Audrey Gazelle
22 23
Insert the hook (placement of stitches) 02 Slip stitch (abbreviation: slst)
110
Harry Wolf
23
Join a chain ring with a slip stitch (tubular foundation chain)
114 120
Hector Rhinoceros Charles Woodpecker
24 24
03 Single crochet (abbreviation: sc) In rows (at fabric)
124 128
Bonny Pufn Hugo Bat
26 27
In a spiral (a tube) Difference between v and x single crochet
134 142
Marcia Alpaca Daniel Jack Russell
28
04 Half double crochet (abbreviation: hdc)
146 152
Robin Unicorn Gertrude Dragon
28 30
Start from a foundation chain 05 Double crochet (abbreviation: dc)
159
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INTRODUCTION Crochet, books and a lot of crazy ideas. Naturally, I wasn’t born knowing how to crochet, nor was I lucky enough to grow up in the Internet era. But let’s just say I was a bit lucky. I spent my childhood surrounded by threads, yarns, needles, hooks and boxes full of marvelous things. My mother, Brazilian, used to do all the crafty activities that she could nd; it was the late 80’s and the early 90’s and, oh, surprise: the crafty hip was almost the same as now (but without Pinterest)! She used to sew, knit, weave looms … and even weave baskets. She also crocheted a little, but only lace edgings that she put in absolutely every towel we had in the house. My mother used to do many things, but she never had the patience to teach. And I couldn’t sit still for a second if I was eager to learn something new. I would draw – steal – threads, wool and needles to try and imitate what she was doing. And I loved to choose colors, combine them and make color palettes for future projects … that never saw the light of day, but I enjoyed imagining them so much that I needed nothing more. Until one day, I suppose tired of my insistence and the increasingly evident absence of her knitting and weaving materials, my mother let me rummage through her precious magazines and books. And I got lost in their fascinating drawings, indecipherable magical texts and the thousand marvels that could be made with needles and threads. With a lot of perseverance and an important level of stubbornness, I nally learned to knit with those incredible books. But I didn’t learn how to crochet, an activity that for me only served to decorate little, uninteresting things in the house – mom and grandmother things. Several years passed before I had a crochet hook in my hands for the rst time. I was attending Fine Arts and had a friend who used to crochet handbags between courses. For the rst time I saw crochet as a technique worth learning. But, in order not to betray my fate, my friend also didn’t have the patience to teach. So I went back to my mother’s books, this time looking for the part I’d always avoided: the intricate drawings of those impossible knots with French names and applications of questionable taste. So, trying to understand those quasi-hieroglyphs with a lot of perseverance (over-stubbornness, again), I learned to crochet. I made a few bags back then, but never really “loved” crochet per se, so I practically crocheted only to pass the time, crocheting and unravelling to start crocheting again. I know, it’s hard to believe, but we didn’t always have Internet and smartphones. One day I was knitting a scarf for my rst child and ran out of wool. As the scarf came out too short, I crocheted something like a bear-shaped button. And that was my rst crocheted toy. And, oh, fortunate me, I found what I loved to crochet: animal toys! A few years later, that hobby, slowly and without intention, became my full-time job, my profession. Crazy as it sounded to me (and still does), I became a professional crocheter, a character designer and toy maker. And if that wasn’t incredible enough, 6 years after I started crocheting toys, I was writing my rst book. I nished writing “El mundo de Pica Pau” in Spanish, my native language, early in 2015. Making that rst book was kind of a crazy idea, my way of closing a long chapter that had begun with my rst crocheted toys in 2009, and it was certainly the most incredible, challenging, stressful and rewarding experience
6
of my whole working life. If you love books as much as I do, you’ll probably have no difculties understanding what I mean. Writing a book (even a crocheted toys book) is kind of a BIG deal, and I couldn’t be happier. As it always happens in life, a couple of months after the book was released, I experienced a few bumps in the road. Nothing too catastrophic (although they felt that way at the time), but enough to leave me with a bad taste in my mouth and a knot in my throat. Luckily, as it also happens in life, time passed by and the bad experiences became the engine of new ideas, transformed into that push that we often need to get through life. So, one year later, I decided that it was time to begin a new chapter: I chose a pair of my favorite notebooks, grabbed my pencils and started to draw the new characters for my next book. Three notebooks, two sketchbooks and more than 60 prototypes later, another crazy idea became reality: the book you are reading right now. Unlike my previous book which presented toys that I had been crocheting for years, the 20 characters in this book are brand-new, fresh from the oven and especially made for you to crochet. And, although they are as new to you as they are to me, they’re denitely closer to what I would have loved to crochet from the beginning, 9 years ago. They’re my 20 favorite new animal friends! In this book you’ll nd some classic animals of the crocheted toys world, like the pig, the panda and the grizzly bear, but I tried to give as much space as possible to other creatures not so well-known but equally, or even more, adorable. You’ll have the chance to meet animals you’ve probably never heard of before, like the coati, a South American raccoon relative. You’ll also nd some animals who are a little more known, but who’re not the most common choice when it comes to crocheted toys, such as the gazelle, the pufn or the bat. And, nally, the not-so-real animals, those mythological, fantastic animals (hello, J.K. Rowling!) like the unicorn, the dragon and the platypus … Ok, the last one is real, but he could make it to the fantastic animal podium without any effort. If you are new to crochet or if you feel like refreshing some techniques, you’ll nd a fairly broad introduction with plenty step-by-step pictures on the basics of crochet. It’s almost impossible to condense all the know ledge about crocheting toys in a little more than 50 pages, but I hope you can use this intro as a guide, as a compass to navigate through the enormous and vast territory that is the universe of crochet tutorials on the Internet. And you will read a thousand times about me saying that there are no hard rules about stitches or techniques, or anything in fact, at least crochet-related. In other words, I’ll show you my way of making toys, my tricks … and some questionable acquired habits: I hold the hook like a knife (which looks pretty ugly in the pictures), I make some stitches in a unconventional way, I prefer to sew snouts before stufng the toy’s body and I can’t get used to the “invisible” decrease. But that’s me. You could always nd another way to achieve the same – or better – results. I sincerely hope you enjoy making these toys as much as I do, because I can’t wait to see all my characters brought to life by each one of you. So grab the hook and get started!
7
This book is dedicated to all the people ghting obstacles to make their crazy ideas come true.
8
9
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES One of the most interesting things about crochet is the fact that a hook and a strand of yarn are all you need to start working. If you have been crocheting for years, or have the incredible fortune of having someone who crochets in the family, it’s more than likely that you have in your possession a case lled with hooks and needles, in various sizes and from different origins. If you started recently, and you have crocheted everything you can nd on the Internet, in magazines and books, it’s almost sure that you have a cute and fancy set of pastel rubber handle hooks, in all the possible sizes. And if you are one of those who is about to try crochet for the rst time and never had a hook in your hands, don’t be afraid! Next, you will nd an essential guide to diving into the fantastic universe of hooks, threads and other supplies. Always remember that high quality hooks and yarns can save you hours of frustration. Hooks and needles do have the habit of getting lost, so make sure you always have a backup, especially of the ones you love and use all the time (I have about ten backups of my favorite hook, perhaps a little too much). CROCHET HOOK Crochet is a technique for creating fabric by interlocking loops of threads worked into a chain using a thin rod with a hook at the end: the crochet hook. In fact, the term crochet is derived from French and means “small hook.” Although we can make the same movement without the crochet hook (as the sherman does with his nets or when we make superchunky blankets with our hands), we’ll need this small hook if we want to crochet a toy that a child can hold in his or her hands. When selecting a hook, apart from size you must consider how comfortable it is for you to hold. In my case, as I hold the hook like a knife (see page 19), I prefer to use crochet hooks without an ergonomic handle, since they can feel a bit uncomfortable in my hand. Don’t be overwhelmed by the variety of choice. I started crocheting with an inherited / stolen hook from my mom, and I kept making toys with that 2.75 mm stainless steel hook for years. Until one day, after giving me a whole world of characters, it broke in two pieces. The hook passed to its well-deserved resting place, although my nostalgia led me to keep it. Then came others. All 2.75 stainless steel. The important advice from this story? I believe it’s best to try one before you order an expensive set of hooks. Hooks are like pens: we can write with any one until we nd that one that changes our lives. Exaggerating? A little bit, maybe. It does not change our lives, but with a good pen our handwriting comes out like dancing on the surface of the paper. And we’d love to be writing all day long. The same goes for hooks and crochet.
10
11
ANATOMY OF A CROCHET HOOK Point: This is the end of the hook that you insert into the stitches. I like the rounded ones, so they slide easily through the stitches. Also, you have to make sure they are blunt enough, so they don’t split the yarn. Although my favorite crochet hook has a blunt tip, I cannot avoid stabbing my left index nger by accident. That’s why you might once in a while see a picture with my nger wrapped in scotch tape. Throat: This part does the actual hooking (catching) of the yarn and allows you to pull it through the stitches and loops. Shaft: This part holds the loops that you are working with. Its diameter determines the size of the stitches, and is the actual size of the hook. Thumb rest: This is the at part where you place your thumb and middle or index nger to hold the hook. Some ergonomic and larger hooks don’t have this at section. Handle: Actually, we don’t hold the hook by the handle, but it’s used for balance and leverage. You can nd a wide variety of coverings for the handle, for ergonomic reasons or embellishment. SIZES Hook sizes are indicated using different, land-specic systems, drawing on either numbers or letters or a combination of both. Below you can nd the three most common systems in use: the metric system, the UK system and the US system. As a basic guide, the thicker the thread, the bigger the hook and larger the stitch. If you crochet loosely, use a smaller hook to tighten your crochet fabric, and if you crochet tightly, use a larger hook to loosen your fabric. The hook size should be what’s comfortable for you to use to obtain the desired result. It’s easier to change the size of the hook than to modify the tension (we tend to have a “natural” tension when we crochet). CROCHET HOOK CONVERSIONS
METRIC
UK
US
2 mm
14
-
2.25 mm
13
B/1
2.5 mm
12
-
2.75 mm
-
C/2
3 mm
11
-
3.25 mm
10
D/3
3.5 mm
9
E/4
3.75 mm
-
F/5
4 mm
8
G/6
4.5 mm
7
7
5 mm
6
H/8
5.5 mm
5
I/9
6 mm
4
J/10
6.5 mm
3
K/10.5
7 mm
2
-
8 mm
0
L/11
9 mm
00
M/13
10 mm
000
N/15
12
MATERIALS
NATURAL FIBERS
Formerly, hooks were made of bone, glass Bakelite and even ivory (thankfully, the last ones are no longer made), with impressively adorned handgrips in the shape of animals or oral motifs. Nowadays, steel, aluminum, plastic, bamboo and wood are the most used materials. Stainless steel: Traditionally, crochet hooks were lace hooks. Almost all hooks under 2.00 mm are made of steel for its strength. The smaller ones, up to 0.35 mm, are used only for lace threads. The larger ones, between 2.0 and 3.5 mm, are excellent for crocheting amigurumi with sport or light worsted (DK) weight yarn. Aluminum: These hooks slip easily between stitches. The aluminum ones have the widest range of sizes and are suitable for all types of yarn. They’re the most common choice because of their strength, lighter weight and durability. Beware when choosing thinner aluminum hooks (less than 4 mm) or of dubious quality, because they tend to bend if you apply some pressure (which happens a lot when crocheting toys). Wood / Bamboo: These hooks are beautiful and superdecorative, but I only recommend them to work with thicker yarns. The good ones usually come from 4 mm and they are very light and excellent for working worsted and bulky weight yarns. Poor quality ones are likely to have a rough nish, so they do not slip well and tend to break easily. Plastic / Acrylic: These hooks are used to work thicker materials such as T-shirt yarn, sheep’s wool roving, etc.
Cellulose bers These are the threads composed of vegetable bers, plants. Among the most common are cotton, ax, jute, rayon and hemp, but you can also get ber from banana trees, pineapple plants, palm trees, bamboo plants, etc. Cotton is probably the most used thread for crochet and, in my opinion, the one that gives the best results when crocheting a toy. This thread has practically no elasticity, which is something you denitely want when making toys (so it keeps its shape). In addition to being a hypoallergenic material, cotton is extremely durable and also very soft, and color choices abound! The downside is that the hook may not slide easily (because it’s not very elastic) and, sometimes, as the cotton is constituted by several strands, the thread can be frayed by the hook. Another drawback of cotton is that cotton plantations are regrettably one of the main users of pesticides in the world. Ideally, it’d be best if we can get organic cotton to work with. You can nd cotton threads in a variety of presentations, from “rustic” ones, over opaque ones and more economical choices, to mercerized cottons, with threads that were treated to obtain strength, giving them a shiny appearance. Protein bers These are the ones that come from animals. Based on keratin (animal hair), like sheep’s wool, alpaca, angora, mohair, or insect secretions, like silk. These yarns can be found pure or in mixtures (of different wools, with acrylic or cotton, and in various proportions).
YARNS Traditionally, crochet was worked only with very ne cotton yarns specially made for this craft, and intended to produce table cloths, doilies, decorative elements, etc. However, we can use almost any material that can be worked into a thread: wool, cotton, string, ribbon, fabric, leather, wire, even plastic bags or paper. Each kind of thread has its pros and cons. Allow yourself to have the incredible experience of experimenting with different materials. It’s the best way to learn and nd what you like most and is most suitable for your purpose. Of course, it’s always recommendable to keep the intended use of the nished product in mind (crocheting a wire toy for a baby may not be the best choice).
Wools tend to be more elastic than the yarns of vegetal origin, and much warmer, besides coming in a generous diversity of textures. Beginners should avoid the hairiest ones (like angora and mohair) because the furry texture hides the structure of the fabric, making it harder to know where to insert the hook. It’s also important to note that lanolin, present in almost all wool, can cause allergy. The only animal yarn that is hypoallergenic is the one from alpacas. Supersoft, durable and silky, but superexpensive (as alpacas can only be sheared once every three years).
13
SYNTHETIC FIBERS Acrylics and nylon can be similar in texture to animal yarns, but they’re less durable. Although they’re cheaper and slip in the hook nicely, they tend to encapsulate (produce little balls on its surface). Nevertheless, it’s one of the most chosen yarns to make toys because of its incredible range of colors. I myself am not such a big fan of its glossy texture nish, but, like everything in life, it’s a matter of taste. FIBER WEIGHT The yarn’s weight is its thickness, in other words the relationship between the weight and the number of meters. Usually, the type of yarn used to crochet toys is between 400 and 200 meters per 100 grams. Internationally, most books and yarn manufacturers rely on standard terms to indicate yarn weight, the number of strands/ PLY is mentioned optionally. Unfortunately, these standard terms are practically unknown in my home country Argentina and other Spanishspeaking countries, and we usually refer to them only as “thin,” “medium” and “thick.” The following chart was made using information of the Craft Yarn Council, and is the standard for crocheting garments.
NUMBER
NAME
TYPES OF YARN IN CATEGORY
PLY
m/100 gr
RECOMMENDED CROCHET HOOK SIZE (mm)
0
Lace
Fingering
1-2 ply
600-800 or more
1.5 - 2.5
1
Super Fine
Sock, Fingering, Baby
3-4 ply
350-600
2.25 - 3.5
2
Fine
Sport, Baby
5 ply
250-350
3.5 - 4.5
3
Light
DK (double knitting), Light Worsted
8 ply
200-250
4.5 - 5.5
4
Medium
Worsted, Afghan, Aran
10-12 ply
120-200
5.5 - 6.5
5
Bulky
Chunky, Craft, Rug
12-16 ply
100-130
6.5 - 9
6
Super Bulky
Super Bulky, Super Chunky, Roving
Less than 100
9 and larger
7
Jumbo
Jumbo, Roving
Less than 100
15 and larger
14
15
The yarn weight and the hook should always relate to each other. However, and most importantly, always keep in mind that when making toys, you’ll have to use a hook two or three sizes smaller than what is recommended for crocheting a garment. After all, we want a dense fabric that won’t allow the stufng to show through.
OTHER ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
PINS
YARN NEEDLES AND TAPESTRY NEEDLES
Try to get plastic or glass-headed pins. They’re easy to see, and their large head prevents them from slipping through the stitches.
Used for joining motifs, sewing and nishing pieces. They have a blunt tip, so you don’t split the thread or the crochet stitches. They also have a large eye that allows thicker yarns to pass through. They’re available in various lengths and sizes, straight and with a bend end. Choose one suitable for the thickness of the yarn you’re using. I use number 16 or 18.
SCISSORS I kind of have a thing for scissors, so I have quite a bunch of them, in different sizes and shapes. The best for this kind of craft are the small, lightweight scissors with sharp points. You’ll be using the scissors regularly, so choose a good, sharp pair.
16
Try to insert small amounts at a time, adding more at a slow pace until you get the right look.
STITCH MARKERS As the name suggests, this is a tool used to mark a stitch. You can nd them in a variety of shapes and qualities. Alternatively, you can use paper clips, safety pins or hair clips to help you indicate the round, row or any location on the worked piece. When crocheting in rounds, always mark the rst (or the last) stitch of the previous round.
FACIAL FEATURES There are a great variety of extra elements to decorate crocheted toys: plastic eyes and noses in all colors and sizes, buttons, bows, ribbons, etc. For my characters, I only use plastic eyes. These safety eyes have two parts: the front with a straight or threaded rod, plus a washer that goes inside the toy. If it’s fastened correctly, it’s practically impossible to remove. If you’re afraid that a child’s tenacity can pull them out (especially if children are under the age of three), you can apply universal glue before placing them on the toy (be careful that the eye is where you want it to be before attaching it!). On the other hand, features can also be embroidered for safety.
STUFFING I always use polyester berll, the same lling used to stuff cushions. It’s easy to nd in any craft shop, and it’s inexpensive, washable and hypoallergenic. Stufng a toy can be trickier than it seems: overstufng might stretch the fabric and show through. Too little stufng gives the toy a sad look, as if the poor thing was deated.
17
CROCHET INTRODUCTION HOLD THE HOOK AND YARN (HAND POSITION) In many years of teaching, I’ve seen almost as many ways of holding the hook and yarn as students. Usually, we handle the hook with the same hand we use to write, but it’s not a rule. If you take it with your right hand, you will crochet from right to left (except with a chain stitch and a crab or reverse single crochet stitch). Holding a new tool can be a little tricky. You probably don’t remember the rst time you held a pencil or a knife, but I’m sure you can manage pretty well with those tools right now. The same goes for a crochet hook. There are no hard rules and there’s no “best way” to hold this tool. If you already know how to crochet and you feel comfortable with it, keep going! If you’re learning, try as many ways as you like, so you can nd the one most suitable for you.
18
KNIFE GRIP Hold the hook in the same manner as you would hold a knife, grasping it between your thumb and index nger, resting the end of the hook against your palm.
PENCIL GRIP Hold the hook as you would a pencil, grasping the hook between your thumb and index nger, in the middle of the at section (the thumb rest).
HOLD THE YARN The free hand is used to control the thread and hold the work. There are several methods to hold the yarn, and everyone has his or her preferred way. For example, you can weave the yarn through your ngers or just place the thread between your palm and two or three ngers. You only have to keep in mind that you have to maintain a steady tension while crocheting. Holding the hook may seem awkward at rst, but holding the yarn is the real deal: you will need to practice to control the thread and make the tension feel comfortable and natural. Also, it’s important to keep this hand “in shape”, because it’s the one that is going to be stressed. Try to exercise before and after crocheting. I know it sounds almost impossible but, please, try not to crochet too many hours in a row! STITCHES There are only a few basic stitches and although the variations and combinations are endless, we’ll only need to master a few. All crochet stitches are made from the combination of two or three of these movements: – Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook (yarn over). – Insert the hook into the stitch. – Draw the yarn through one or more loops on the hook. There are several methods to make the basic crochet stitches. In this book, I will explain the ones that I learned throughout the years and still use. But remember that, as in almost any craft, there’s no strict manual of rules and you can (and should) adapt the techniques to your needs and possibilities.
19
SLIP KNOT Almost all crochet works begin with this knot. The slip knot is the rst loop you’ll need to make on your hook.
1 Make a loop shape with the tail end of the yarn. 2 Insert the hook into it and draw another loop through it. 3 Pull the yarn tail to tighten the loop around the hook. The slip knot does not count as a stitch. I usually make another knot … Yes, another knot to secure the slip knot.
20
01 CHAIN STITCH (ABBREVIATION: ch) This stitch is the basis for most crochet works: if you are working in rows, your rst row will (almost) always be chain stitches, known as a foundation chain. It is also used to join motifs and as a turning stitch.
1 Holding the slip knot, wrap the yarn from back to front around the hook. This movement is called yarn over. You can wind the yarn over the hook or twist the hook to go under the yarn. 2 Draw the hook backward to pull the yarn through the loop on the hook (the slip knot). 3 You will form a new loop, which is your rst chain stitch. Repeat the previous steps to form as many chain stitches as required. Note: It’s crucial to hold the work rmly to prevent
it from spinning around the hook every time you try to yarn over.
Note: To help maintain an even foundation
Turning chain When crocheting in rows, these are the chain stitches you have to make in order to move to the beginning position. You do this to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you are crocheting. Each stitch has a corresponding number of turning chains: – a row of single crochet: 1 turning chain – a row of half double crochet: 2 turning chains – a row of double crochet: 3 turning chains
chain, keep changing your grip on the crocheted chains, so you are always holding them near
Note: When you work half double crochet or longer
the hook.
stitches, the turning chain counts as the rst stitch.
Foundation chain This is the string of chain stitches you have to crochet if you want to make a at fabric worked in rows. It’s the equivalent of casting on when you start knitting.
21
COUNTING STITCHES Counting stitches will help you ensure that you are following the pattern correctly. When counting stitches, do not count the slip knot or the loop on the hook (this is the working loop). The easiest way to count stitches is to look at the plaited tops. Remember to count your stitches now and then to make sure you have the number of stitches required in the pattern. Note: Every stitch looks like a V from the top. With time, you will be able to count stitches from every angle!
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
1 2 3 4 5 6
INSERT THE HOOK (PLACEMENT OF STITCHES) With the exception of chains, for all crochet stitches the hook needs to be inserted into existing stitches. Inserting the hook is the movement you make with the hook, taking it, from front to back, through a stitch. The point of the hook must always be looking down or sideways, so the hook doesn’t snag the yarn or the fabric. When picking up stitches, you can insert the hook in three different places: the back loop, the front loop or under both loops.
1 BOTH LOOPS: put the hook through both loops of the stitch in the row or round below. This is the most common way to crochet and the preferred method when the pattern doesn’t specify another way.
2 FRONT LOOP ONLY (ABBREVIATION FLO): Insert the hook under the one loop closest to you.
22
3 BACK LOOP ONLY (ABBREVIATION BLO): Insert the hook under the one loop furthest away from you. This leaves the front loop as a horizontal bar. It’s used for aesthetic effects or to re-join the yarn.
02 SLIP STITCH (ABBREVIATION: slst) This stitch has no height and is hardly ever used on its own to make a crochet fabric. Instead, it’s generally used to join ends into a circle, join pieces, nish a piece and move across the stitches to another part of the work (usually in crochet motifs like doilies or granny squares).
1 Insert the hook through both loops of the next stitch (on the foundation chain: insert in second chain from the hook). 2 Yarn over the hook and draw through both loops at once. Note: When working slip stitches in the last round
or row to nish or embellish a piece, try to work the stitches a little loosely to avoid puckering the fabric. JOIN A CHAIN RING WITH A SLIP STITCH (tubular foundation chain) 1 Insert the hook into the rst chain. 2 Yarn over and draw the yarn through both loops on the hook at once.
23
03 SINGLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: sc) The single crochet is THE stitch for working crocheted toys because it’s the only one that results in closed and tight fabric. The single crochet not only works excellently to maintain the shape of the toy, but also avoids that stufng will show through (as long as we don’t ll it too much). In rows (at fabric) Start from a foundation chain. 1 Insert the hook in the second chain stitch from the hook. 2 Yarn over the hook. 3 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch. Now you have two loops on the hook. 4 Yarn over the hook again. 5 Draw the hook backward to pull the yarn through both loops at once.
6 One loop remains on the hook, and you have completed one single crochet stitch. 7 Insert the hook into the next stitch and continue crocheting into every chain stitch. 8 At the end of the row, make one turning chain and turn the work to begin the next row. 9 Crochet one single crochet stitch into the next stitch (not counting the turning chain), inserting the hook through both loops of the stitch in the row below. 10 Continue crocheting until the end of the row and repeat.
24
Note: When crocheting in rows, it doesn’t matter
if you chain and turn or turn and chain, but be consistent with the way you turn your work along.
25
In a spiral (a tube) Start from a foundation chain. 1 Make sure your chain isn’t twisted and put the hook through the rst chain stitch. 2 Close into a ring by making one slip stitch in the rst chain. 3 Continue crocheting one single crochet into each chain stitch until you reach the beginning.
4 Work a single crochet into the rst single crochet you worked (do not close the round with a slst). This is when the stitch marker comes in handy: place it into the single crochet you just worked. 5 Continue working single crochet stitches until you reach the stitch marker. Remove the marker and make a single crochet in this stitch. Replace the marker into the stitch you just worked and repeat.
26
V single crochet
Difference between V and X single crochet As you might notice, if you’re an experienced crocheter, my stitches look slightly different from what you’re accustomed to. Instead of wrapping the yarn over my crochet hook, I wrap it under my crochet hook. By doing this, I get an X-shaped single crochet stitch instead of a V-shaped single crochet stitch.
X single crochet
27
04 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: hdc) As its name indicates, this stitch is halfway between a single crochet and a double crochet in height. Being a looser stitch, the fabric made with half double crochet is more uid and is excellent for working toy garments. It’s also used when the work requires raising or lowering heights (when crocheting the shape of a leaf or ear, for example). Start from a foundation chain The rst two chain stitches of the foundation chain are the turning chain for the rst row and together are counted as the rst stitch (which you skip). 1 Yarn over from back to front. 2 Insert the hook into the third chain from the hook and yarn over again. 3 Draw the yarn through one loop only. You now have three loops on the hook. 4 Yarn over again and draw through all three loops on the hook. You have completed the rst half double crochet stitch.
5 Yarn over and insert your hook into the next stitch. Continue crocheting into every chain stitch. 6 At the end of the row, make two turning chains and turn the work to begin the next row. 7 Crochet one half double crochet in the third stitch from the hook, inserting the hook through both loops of the stitch in the row below. 8 Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
28
29
05 DOUBLE CROCHET (ABBREVIATION: dc) Probably the best-known crochet stitch to crochet garments and blankets. We only use it sporadically when crocheting toys. Start from a foundation chain The rst three chain stitches of the foundation chain are the turning chain for the rst row and together are counted as the rst stitch. 1 Yarn over from back to front. 2 Insert the hook into the fourth chain from the hook and yarn over again. 3 Draw the yarn through one loop only. You now have three loops on the hook. 4 Yarn over again and draw through the rst two loops on the hook. You now have two loops on the hook. 5 Wrap the yarn over the hook one last time and draw it through both loops on the hook. You have now completed one double crochet stitch. 6 Yarn over and insert the hook into the next stitch. Continue crocheting into every chain stitch. 7 At the end of the row, make three turning chains and turn the work to begin the next row. 8 Crochet one double crochet stitch into the fourth stitch from the hook, inserting the hook through both loops of the stitch in the row below. 9 Repeat until you reach the end of the row.
30
06 BOBBLE STITCH (ABBREVIATION: 3-DC-BOBBLE OR 5-DC-BOBBLE) This is a less common crochet stitch, but I use it on almost all of my toys to make ngers and toes. It can also be used to crochet noses, ears and other bobbly details. A bobble stitch is a cluster of stitches worked into one stitch, joined by leaving the last loop of each stitch temporarily on the hook until they are closed together at the end. The number of stitches can vary, but it’s usually made of three or ve stitches. In this book, I always use a ve double crochet bobble stitch. 1 Yarn over the hook before placing the hook into the stitch. 2 Yarn over again and draw the yarn through the stitch. You now have three loops on the hook. 3 Yarn over the hook again and pull it through the rst two loops on the hook. You now have one half-closed double crochet stitch, and two loops remain on the hook. 4 In the same stitch, repeat the preceding steps four more times. You will have 5 half-closed double crochet stitches into one stitch. 5 Yarn over and draw through all six loops on the hook at once.
31
Bobble stitch view from the top.
32
07 SINGLE RIB CROCHET (POST OR RELIEF STITCH) I use this method to make ribbings of hats and other garments. This technique is more common with double crochet, but it works ne with single crochet as well. It’s made by alternating one front-post and one back-post stitch. You should have at least one row or round of single crochet stitches before beginning these raised stitches. 1 Insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the single crochet stitch from the previous round or row. 2 Yarn over and pull a loop around the post. Pull out a little more yarn than for a standard single crochet stitch. 3 Yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook.
4 You have now nished your rst front post stitch. 5 Insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the next single crochet stitch. 6 Yarn over and pull a loop around the post. Pull out a little more yarn than for a normal single crochet stitch. 7 Yarn over and pull through the two loops on the hook. 8 Repeat steps 1-7 until the end of the round or row.
33
34
INCREASES AND DECREASES Increases and decreases are used for shaping any crochet garment or object. Increase (abbreviation: inc) Increasing in crochet is achieved by working two or more stitches where there would normally be one stitch.
1 Work a stitch into the next stitch of the last row or round. 2 Insert your hook in exactly the same stitch. 3 Work a second stitch.
35
Decrease (abbreviation: dec) Decreasing is achieved by crocheting two or more stitches together. When working motif patterns it’s common to skip one or more stitches to decrease, but we’ll never use this technique when crocheting toys because it leaves signicant gaps through which stufng can escape. Traditional decrease This is the one I use because it’s the method I learned rst (mainly because it comes naturally to me). Nowadays, with the amigurumi fever, it became less popular because it can leave a small gap if not tightened properly. 1 Work two incomplete stitches in two adjacent stitches on the previous round or row. 2 Yarn over. 3 Pull up a loop through all three loops on the hook.
36
Invisible decrease This way of decreasing is probably the most used when crocheting toys because the invisible decrease stitch looks pretty similar to the other stitches.
1 Insert the hook in the front loop of the rst stitch. 2 Insert the hook in the front loop of the next stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. 3 Yarn over and draw it through the rst two loops on the hook. 4 Yarn over again and draw it through the two loops remaining on the hook.
37
WORKING IN SPIRALS Increasing stitches from the center out is a technique used to make round pieces, such as doilies, hats and toys. When crocheting in rounds, we close each round with a slip stitch. This technique, despite generating perfect circles, leaves a continuous mark as the result of joining rounds, something like a scar, and it’s not pretty at all on a cute toy. To avoid this mark, instead we choose to crochet in spirals, that is, without closing the rounds. And that’s why it’s highly recommended to use a stitch marker: this will show you where a new round begins and the previous one ended. You can choose to place it at the end or the beginning of each round. After crocheting the round, you should end up right above your stitch marker. Move it at the beginning or the end of each round (be consistent in what you choose) to keep track of where you are. MAGIC RING This is, almost without a doubt, the best way to start crocheting in the round. You start by working the required number of stitches on an adjustable loop and then pull the loop tight until the stitches are closed in a ring. The signicant advantage of the magic ring is that it won’t have a hole at the center, which is best for stuffed toys (where you don’t want stufng to poke out of any gaps). There are several techniques to start the magic ring, and all of them may seem a little bit scary at rst. Practice, practice and don’t worry if it appears impossible during the rst attempts. I can assure you that once you’ve nished your rst toy, you will have mastered this technique perfectly. And you’ll love it! 1 Start with the yarn crossed to form a circle, as if you were to start a slip knot. 2 Holding the loop between your thumb and index nger, insert the hook in the middle of the circle and draw up a loop. 3 Keep holding the ring tight (this is crucial!) and yarn over again. 4 Pull the yarn through the loop on your hook to make a chain stitch. This chain stitch will secure the ring. 5 Insert the hook again into the loop and underneath the tail (they look like two strands crossed). Yarn over the hook and draw up a loop.
6 Yarn over again. 7 Draw the loop through both loops on the hook. You’ve now made your rst single crochet in the ring. 8 Repeat steps 5, 6 and 7 until you have the required number of stitches. 9 Grab the yarn tail and pull to draw the center of the ring tightly closed. Don’t be afraid to pull it really tight. 10 You can opt to join the circle with a slip stitch, but this is not at all necessary. It’s the only point where I myself join the rounds.
38
39
CROCHETING AROUND A FOUNDATION CHAIN When you want to start an oval piece instead of a circle, you can start by working around a foundation chain. It’s a very traditional method to start rugs or bags and, in case of toys, we’ll be using this technique for crocheting snouts, ears and the body of some characters. side of the foundation chain. 5 Turn your work upside down to work into the underside of the stitches. Notice that only one loop is available. 6 Continue crocheting into each loop across. 7 Your last single crochet stitch should be next to the rst stitch you made (it can also be an increase stitch depending on the pattern). 8 You can now continue working in spirals.
1 Work a foundation chain with as many stitches as required. 2 Start in the second chain from the hook and work a single crochet stitch (sometimes, the pattern may require an increase stitch). 3 Continue crocheting single crochet stitches into each chain stitch. 4 The last stitch is usually an increase stitch, so we can turn the work and continue working on the other
40
41
42
CHANGING COLOR AND JOINING YARN Use this technique when you want to switch from one color to the next or join yarn in case you ran out of the one you were crocheting with. 1 Work in the previous color (or yarn) until two loops of the last stitch remain on the hook. 2 Use the new color (or yarn) to complete the stitch. Continue working with the new color (or yarn) as before.
Try not to cut off any yarn tails that will be needed later on. I knot both yarns to make sure the stitch stays tight.
Note: If you are working stripes of different colors in
rows, make the color change in the last stitch of the previous row.
43
JACQUARD Crocheting in jacquard is a technique where we work with two or more colors at once to create motifs and patterns. It’s like drawing with different yarn colors as we crochet. It’s common to work a jacquard motif following a diagram. I nd it easier to work from diagrams or charts because you can clearly see when to change colors and it’s simpler to count the stitches. Handling the different strands of color when working jacquard can be a bit complicated (and rather frustrating). One method that’s quite easy and works well is to leave the yarn we don’t use behind the work. When it’s time to use it again, pick the yarn up again and carry it across the back (inside) of your work before making the next color change.
Note: When the pattern indicates to make the color
2 Taking into account that the color change always starts a stitch before, take the strand of the color that you want to use and carry it from behind to the place where you want to change color. 3 The strands that remain inside your crochetwork, between color changes, must be loose enough so that the fabric does not pucker up.
change, it’s really important to remember that the change must always be started one stitch earlier (see CHANGING COLOR on page 43). 1 Crochet the number of stitches as indicated by the pattern.
Note: When the color changes are widely spread,
I like to cut the inside strands and tie them together. In fact, it is recommendable in case the color change causes your thread to cross the crochetwork and make a web that doesn't allow you to stuff properly.
44
TAPESTRY The only difference between jacquard and tapestry is how the different strands of color are carried through the work: instead of leaving them on the inside, they are now carried along within the stitches (on top of the V) while continuing to crochet with the other color. This means that every time we make a stitch, we’ll be wrapping the strand(s) of other yarn colors that we aren’t using. However, this apparently small difference will signicantly change the look of the fabric, especially on the backside (or “wrong” side). It results in a piece of fabric that resembles a tapestry (hence the name!) and has the great advantage that there are no loose threads on either side. Therefore, it’s great to crochet garments or accessories where we want the fabric to look nice on both sides. However, the small disadvantage I see is that, unless you carry the threads throughout the entire work, the place where you crochet using this technique results in a rather thick fabric, and the threads of the “hidden” colors can be seen between the stitches.
Note: If you want to learn more about this technique
and be amazed by the incredible fabrics and objects you can crochet, check out Molla Mills’ work. 45
FASTENING OFF When you nish your work and want to fasten off the yarn permanently, cut the yarn about 5 cm (2 inches) away from the last stitch. Draw the end through the loop on the hook and pull tight. If you are going to sew the piece, you may have to cut the yarn much longer, depending on how many stitches you’ll have to sew. If you are not going to sew this piece, or if you have nished the last round of a stuffed piece, you may want to weave in the yarn end. Weave in the yarn end on a at fabric 1 Thread the yarn end into a tapestry needle. 2 With the wrong side facing, weave the end into a single row or several stitches, wrapping the yarn end into the loops of the bottom of the rows. You can also pass the yarn sideways through the loops. 3 Cut the remaining tail.
Weave in the yarn end on a stuffed piece 1 Finish the last round of decreases and fasten off, leaving a long tail of 15 cm (6 inches). 2 Thread the yarn tail into a tapestry needle and, from back to front, weave it through the front loop of each remaining stitch. 3 Pull tight to close. 4 Weave it through one or two stitches to secure the tail. 5 Trim the excess yarn and hide it into the piece with the help of your crochet hook.
46
EMBROIDERY Embroidery remains a pending subject for me. I only know how to make – more or less – one embroidery stitch I learned as a child to hand-sew dolls dresses: the backstitch. It creates a nice line made up of straight stitches. 1 Thread your tapestry needle. 2 Inserting the hook from behind your work, make a single straight stitch as long as your single crochet stitch. I like to use the gaps between the stitches to insert and pass the tapestry needle through.
3 Continue along, as many times as you need, coming up one space ahead and bringing your needle back down into the same hole at the end of the last stitch you’ve made.
47
JOINING PARTS (SEWING) I still haven’t found a crocheter who really enjoys sewing parts together, and I’m not the exception. In fact, I think I would pay someone to do the sewing part for me. But, as it’s not the case, better to learn a simple and satisfactory way to carry out this not so pleasant task. If you’re having doubts about where to place the parts, you can pin them to see how they look and adjust if necessary. If possible (and I mean, always) use the leftover yarn tail from where you fastened off. Joining open pieces Use this technique to sew snouts, beaks, horns, etc. (pieces that will be stuffed) to an open and unstuffed piece, like a head. Both pieces have open ends. 1 Thread the tapestry needle. 2 Position the piece. If you are sewing a snout or a beak on a face, I recommend you put it on the opposite side of where your stitch marker is positioned, for aesthetic reasons. Use pins if you need them! 3 Make the rst stitch, inserting the needle from front to back (inside).
4 Using backstitching, sew passing under both loops of each stitch from the nal round of the piece to be attached. Go from back to front and front to back. Important! If the piece has 30 stitches, you’ll have to make at least 30 backstitches. 5 Before getting to the end, remember to stuff the piece. I try not to stuff the pieces until the end, to avoid the lling getting entangled in the stitches.
48
49
Joining an open end piece with a closed piece Sewing a piece (with or without stufng) onto a nished part without closing the opening to be sewn. 1 Thread the tapestry needle. 2 Place the pieces on top of each other and try to line up the stitches of one piece with the other, if possible. 3 Insert the needle through one loop of the closed (and stuffed) piece (for example the body).
4 Now pass the needle under both loops of the stitch from the piece to be sewn (for example the arm). 5 Sew around the whole piece and fasten off. Weave in the yarn tail.
50
READING A PATTERN Patterns can be a little bit daunting when you see them for the rst time, especially if your rst encounter is with a crochet diagram or chart. But once you learn the lingo, you’ll be able to unravel any pattern in front of you. Crochet has its own lingo and, like all lingos, its own peculiarities. The crochet terminology not only differs between countries, it even has its local variations in the same country. The table below is a brief guide to the most commonly used stitch terms and symbols. In this book, I use US terms.
LATIN AMERICA
US
UK
SPAIN
stitch (st)
stitch (st)
punto (p/pt)
punto (p/pt)
chain (ch)
chain (ch)
cadena (c/cad)
cadeneta (c/cad)
slip stitch (slst)
slip stitch (slst)
punto corrido / pasado (pc/pp)
punto raso / enano (pr/pe)
single crochet (sc)
double crochet (dc)
medio punto (mp)
punto bajo (pb)
half double crochet (hdc)
half treble crochet (htc)
media vareta (mv/pmv)
punto (alto) medio (pm)
double crochet (dc)
treble crochet (tr)
vareta (v/pv)
punto alto (pa)
bobble stitch
bobble stitch
punto mota / piña
punto piña
increase (inc)
increase (inc)
aumento (aum)
aumento (aum)
decrease (dec)
decrease (dec)
disminución (dism)
disminución (dism)
row/round (Rnd)
row/round (Rnd)
hilera (h) / carrera vuelta / ronda (r)
hilera (h) / carrera vuelta / ronda (r)
ring
ring
anillo
anillo
SYMBOL
PARENTHESES AND BRACKETS In this book, I use parentheses (rounded brackets) to indicate the instructions that should be repeated across the round or row a required number of times. The number within square brackets at the end of each line shows the total number of stitches you should have in the previous round. For example: Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 3 indicates in which round you are. The instructions inside the parentheses are the stitches you have to repeat 6 times throughout the round. 18 is the total number of stitches you should have at the end. When directions for one round must be repeated through several rounds, you will read “Rnd 10-20”, which indicates that you have to follow the same instructions from round 10 to round 20.
51
52
WHEN CROCHETING MY PATTERNS Don’t feel tied to the choices of yarn. Although I always use DK/light worsted weight cotton, any weight of cotton, acrylic or wool can be used as a substitute. Just keep in mind to use the right crochet hook accordingly. The patterns don’t state the yarn quantity needed. The amounts are rather small and will vary according to how loosely or tightly you crochet. One or two balls of each color is usually enough (for light or DK worsted weight yarn, you’ll need between 70 and 100 grams). Color choice is something very personal. It’s unlikely you’ll see me use violet or purple shades … and it’s easy to notice that I have a thing for blues and nautical color schemes (that’s why almost all of my characters have striped T-shirts). So, when you crochet your own toys, try to nd those colors that suit you, that make you smile. If you’re feeling a bit lost, try nding inspiration in your everyday life: nature, books, magazines, lms, cartoons, your surroundings or even by looking at pictures from collections online.
The idea is that every pattern can be a starting point for another one, for a lot of new characters and ideas. Experiment with them, modify them as you please. As I’ve said a ton of times before, there are no hard rules; you should always allow yourself to adapt the techniques to meet your needs. Make, make a lot. Make and try everything. Don’t be afraid to mess it up. I can assure you that you’ll end with lots of crochet failures … But please, don’t stop making them. Every one of your failures is a step closer to something new. It’s knowledge, it’s experience, and it’s letting you have fun. Try to remember when you were a kid; you probably didn’t do stuff to achieve some goal, you only did it for fun, to enjoy the moment. Crochet can bring you this same joy and the great satisfaction of making things. Now, this is your chance to nd that unique mentality again, to recover those feelings and sensations, to connect with that quirky style from when we were kids. And, as in those years, proudly show the fruits of our efforts.
53
54
55
Ever since Pedro can remember, he has always been afraid of something. He was afraid of the dark and of being left alone. Afraid to try unknown foods, to meet new pigs, or even worse, he was afraid of making a fool of himself. Pedro had so many small fears that stopped him from doing everything he wanted to do, from being the pig he wanted to be. But last summer, Pedro decided that enough was enough. He was not going to stop having fun with his friends just because he didn’t dare to put his foot into the water. So he put on his swimming rings (also overcoming his fear of ridicule) and dove into the lagoon. Now Pedro is nishing the rst year of his lifeguard course and he's eager to start training as a reghter next.
L L LE VE L * *
I K
S
Size: 11 inches / 28 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · pink · white · blue · red · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT
HEAD AND BODY
(in pink) Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 3 st, 4 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st [14] Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st [18] Rnd 3: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st [24] Rnd 4: BLO sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 24 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Join pink yarn in the rst front loop stitch of round 4. Rnd 7: FLO slst in all 24 st [24] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Embroider the mouth and nose with black yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with berll.
(start in pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 21: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 22: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
56
57
Sew the snout between rounds 16 and 22. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 17 and 18, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Stuff the head. Rnd 24: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 26 – 28: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 29: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 30 – 36: sc in all 42 st [42] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing the color every round, alternating between white and blue. Rnd 37: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 38 – 44: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 45: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 42 st [42]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg in a stripe pattern: Rnd 48 – 49: sc in all 18 st [18] Change to pink yarn. Rnd 50: BLO sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 51 – 59: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 60: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 61: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close the gap. Weave in the yarn end.
58
SECOND LEG Rejoin the blue yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 47. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 48: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round. Rnd 49 – 61: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.
59
ARMS (make 2, in pink) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 17: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides be tween rounds 26 and 27.
TAIL (in pink) Ch 9. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in next 8 st [16] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 40.
EARS (make 2, in pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15]
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 12: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the top of the head.
60
SWIMMING RINGS (make 2, start in white) Ch 16. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Work with alternating yarns (white and red). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 1: ((white) sc in next st, inc in next st, (red) sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [24]
Rnd 2: ((white) sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, (red) sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 8 times [32] Rnd 3 – 7: ((white) sc in next 4 st, (red) sc in next 4 st) repeat 8 times [32] Rnd 8: ((white) sc in next 2 st, dec, (red) sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 8 times [24] Rnd 9: ((white) sc in next st, dec, (red) sc in next st, dec) repeat 8 times [16] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew round 9 to round 1 to make a ring. Stuff as you go.
61
Tired of the life in the big city and the feeling of being locked in a tiny apartment (he’s not a fan of hibernation), Hans decided to move to a more open space, away from everyone and the ‘canned’ city li fe. So he moved to the beach, near Tono Bay, in Canada. Now Hans is happy growing his own food, catching his own sh and learning to surf with the locals. The only thing he really misses is falafel, so he’s seriously thinking of opening a small restaurant dedicated to those fantastic chickpea balls.
L L LE VE L * *
I K S
Size: 12 inches / 30 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · brown · mustard yellow · white · blue · red · aqua blue · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Size G-6 / 4 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece. Note: use size C-2 /
2.75 mm crochet hook, unless otherwise noted.
SNOUT (in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 7: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth and nose with black yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48]
62
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 22: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 9 times [36] Sew the snout between rounds 17 and 23. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, about 4 stitches away from the snout. Stuff the head. Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 28: sc in all 18 st [18] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating between white and blue. Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 30: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 32 – 35: sc in all 36 st [36]
63
Rnd 36: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 37 – 39: sc in all 40 st [40] Change to brown yarn. Rnd 40: BLO sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 41 – 45: sc in all 40 st [40]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 2 stitches for the central space between the legs, 2 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 46 – 67: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 68: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 69: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the brown yarn to the third unworked stitch at the back of round 45. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 46: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [18] Rnd 47 – 69: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 2 stitches between the legs closed.
ARMS (make 2, start in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating between white and blue. Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 30 and 31.
TAIL (in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 42.
HAT (in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 13: sc in next 18 st, ch 8, skip next 8 st, sc in next 8 st, ch 8, skip next 8 st, sc in next 18 st [60] Rnd 14 – 17: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 18 – 20: single rib crochet in all 60 st [60] Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.
64
EARS (make 2, in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears. Sew the ears to the head, taking into account the position of the gaps in the hat.
VEST (in aqua blue, using size G-6 / 4 mm crochet hook) Ch 29. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next
3 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next 8 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn [36] Row 2: sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 10 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [44] Row 3: sc in next 6 st, ch 5, skip next 9 st, sc in next 14 st, ch 5, skip next 9 st, sc in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [36] Row 4: sc in next 6 st, sc in next 5 ch, sc in next 14 st, sc in next 5 ch, sc in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [36] Row 5 – 11: sc in all 36 st, ch 1, turn [36] Without turning, single crochet and edge all around the vest, in the row-ends up the rst side, across the neck, and down the row-ends on the other side. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
65
Murray was born near Bromore Cliffs, on Ireland’s west coast. He loves everything about his home: the sea, the rocky shores, the salty breezes and, naturally, the seafood. Anything with sh, cabbage or potatoes is his favorite on the menu, especially if it’s fried. Murray knew what he wanted to be from the rst time he watched a Jacques Cousteau documentary: explorer, conservationist and lmmaker. Since he doesn’t need a submarine to dive deep into the sea, Murray bought a yellow bicycle and called it Calypso. He now uses it to explore the Wild Atlantic Way. Luckily, it also has a nice little basket where he can put his lunch of sh and chips.
L L LE VE L * *
I K
S
Size: 12 inches / 30 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · mink brown · off-white · white · blue · yellow · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT
HEAD AND BODY
(start in off-white) We work with alternating yarns (off-white and mink brown). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: (off-white) start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in last st, (mink brown) 2 more sc in last stitch. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st [14] Rnd 2: (off-white) inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, (mink brown) inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st [18] Rnd 3: (off-white) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, (mink brown) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [22] Rnd 4 – 5: (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (mink brown) sc in next 11 st [22] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with berll.
(start in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 12: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 15: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 18: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54]
66
67
Rnd 19: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 20: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Sew the snout between rounds 12 and 19. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 4 stitches away from the snout. Stuff the head. Rnd 21: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 22: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 23: sc in all 30 st [30] Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in blue and 2 rounds in white. Rnd 24: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 26 – 30: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 31: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 32 – 36: sc in all 42 st [42] Change to mink brown yarn. Rnd 37: BLO (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 38 – 58: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 59: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 60 – 61: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 62: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 63-64: sc in all 36 st [36]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 4 stitches for the central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 14 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 65 – 69: sc in all 14 st [14] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 70: dec 7 times [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle,
weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the mink brown yarn in the fth unworked stitch at the back of round 64. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 65: sc in all 14 st. When you reach the 14th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [14] Rnd 66 – 70: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed.
ARMS (make 2, start in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 8 st [10] Rnd 4 – 14: sc in all 10 st [10] Change to white yarn. Rnd 15: sc in all 10 st [10] Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in blue and 2 rounds in white. Rnd 16 – 19: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 20: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides be tween rounds 25 and 26.
EARS (make 2, in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears and sew them to rounds 6-10 of the head.
68
TAIL
Rnd 24: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 25 – 26: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 50 to 60.
(in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 15: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 22 – 23: sc in all 27 st [27]
VEST (in yellow) Ch 38. Crochet hdc in rows. Row 1: start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 36 st, ch 2, turn [36] Row 2: hdc in next 5 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, hdc in next 14 st, ch 6, skip next 6 st, hdc in next 5 st, ch 2, turn [36] Row 3: (hdc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times, ch 2, turn [42] Row 4: hdc in next 42 st, ch 2, turn [42] Row 5: hdc in next 42 st [42] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
69
René is a yacaré caiman born in Pantanal, Brazil, but a big part of his family is from Corrientes, Argentina, so he speaks both languages. Luckily, he’s not a football fan. René is a geographer and works as a freelancer for National Geographic and the most prestigious universities in the world. He doesn’t believe in stereotypes or the pre-established, especially i n fashion or dress codes, so he wears only things that make him happy. Lately, René doesn’t go out without his blue bow tie and the party hat from his last birthday. Life really is too short to care about the tastes and tolerance issues of others.
I L L K
S
LE VE
L *
Size: 10 inches / 25 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · green · white · blue · dark blue · red · leftover of pink · leftover of dark green · leftover of ochre – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll
HEAD (in green) Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, inc in this st, sc in next 10 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 11 st [26] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [32] Rnd 3: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 4: sc in next 4 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 8 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 18 st [32] Rnd 5 – 14: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 15: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [36] Rnd 16 – 30: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 32: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 33: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Stuff the head rmly with berll. Rnd 34: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 35: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 36: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the
70
front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Embroider short, dark green lines on top of the caiman’s snout.
EYES (make 2, in green) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4. Stuff lightly and sew to the head, over rounds 11 and 15, with an interspace of 4 stitches.
CHEEKS (make 2, in pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head.
71
BODY (start in green) Ch 24. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 24 st [24] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating between white and blue. Rnd 3: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 4 – 10: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 11: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 12 – 17: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to green yarn. Rnd 18: BLO (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 19 – 32: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 33: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 34 – 36: sc in all 36 st [36]
SECOND LEG Rejoin the green yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back of round 36. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 37: sc in all 12 st. When you reach the 12th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [12] Rnd 38 – 43: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 6 stitches between the legs closed. Sew the head to the body.
ARMS (make 2, start in green) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating between white and blue. Rnd 11 – 22: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 3 and 4.
LEGS
TAIL
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 6 stitches for the central space between the legs, 6 stitches for the back and 12 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 37 – 42: sc in all 12 st [12] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 43: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
(in green) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 15: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 18: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 22 – 23: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 24: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30]
72
Rnd 25 – 26: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 25 to 34.
BOW TIE (in dark blue) Ch 22. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the founda tion chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 4: sc in all 22 st [22] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Middle ribbon (in dark blue) Ch 9. Do not join. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 8 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Wrap the middle ribbon around the center of the bow tie. Sew the bow tie to the T-shirt.
PARTY HAT (start in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every 2 rounds, alternating between red and white. Rnd 3: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 10: sc in all 24 st [24] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Sew a pom-pom to the top. Stuff lightly with berll. Sew the hat to the head.
73
Ramón is an astronomer who travels all around the world searching for the best places to observe the skies. His next project is to create a public and free observatory in the Andes, so everyone has the possibility to watch and learn about the galaxies, nebulae and constellations that fascinate him so much. Obviously, he grew up watching Carl Sagan’s Cosmos and is a Star Trek fan (and a Star Wars fan too, but don’t say a thing, because Trekkies are a bit sensitive, hehe). Live long and prosper and may the force be with you.
LEV EL * * L L I ( * K ) S
Size: 14.5 inches / 37 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · mink brown · off-white · white · slate gray · black · leftover of bright colors for the poncho – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5 – 9: sc in all 24 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth and nose with black yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
74
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 22: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 9 times [45] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 9 times [36] Rnd 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Sew the snout between rounds 17 and 24. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 28: sc in all 18 st [18] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating between white and slate gray. Rnd 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 30: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30]
75
Rnd 31: (sc 31: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 32 – 35: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 36: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [40] Rnd 37 – 39: sc in all 40 st [40] Change to brown yarn. Rnd 40: BLO 40: BLO sc in all 40 st [40] Rnd 41 – 45: sc in all 40 st [40]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 2 stitches for the central space between the legs, 2 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg (you may nd it use ful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 46 – 67: sc 67: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 68: (sc 68: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 69: dec 69: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends SECOND LEG Rejoin the brown yarn to the third unworked stitch at the back of round 45. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 46: sc 46: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th stitch of the leg, sc in rst stitch to join into the round [18] Rnd 47 – 69: repeat 69: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapes try needle, sew the 2 stitches between the legs closed.
ARMS (make 2, start in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 17: sc 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating between white and slate gray. Rnd 18 – 20: sc 20: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 21: (sc 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 30 and 31.
EARS (make 2, start in mink brown) Rnd 1: start 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Starting in the next round, we continue working with alternating yarns. The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 3: (mink brown) inc in next 4 st, (off-white) inc in next 2 st [12] Rnd 4: (mink brown) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st [12] Rnd 5: (mink brown) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, (offwhite) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [18] Rnd 6: (mink brown) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [18] Rnd 7: (mink brown) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times, (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [24] Rnd 8 – 22: (mink brown) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the top of the head.
TAIL (start in black) Rnd 1: start 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 4: sc 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Change to mink brown yarn. Rnd 5 – 9: sc 9: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 42.
76
HAIR (in black) Insert the hook in the middle of the magic ring, at the top of the head. Ch 6. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, slst in next 5 ch [5] Join with a slst in the next stitch to the head. Insert the hook in the next stitch from the magic ring and ch 6. Turn, slst in next 5 ch. Join with a slst to the head. Continue working the hair along the next stitches, about 5 rounds down (the more rounds, the more hair your donkey has).
77
78
PONCHO Note: For the poncho I use the tapestry crochet
technique, following the diagram enclosed. If you are not condent using this technique, you can choose to crochet the entire poncho in one color or in a simple stripes pattern. (start in main color) Ch 48. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted, then insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and crochet a slst to close the ring. Continue working in a spiral, changing colors according to the diagram. Rnd 1: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 2: sc in next 23 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 23 st, 3 sc in next st [52] Rnd 3: sc in all 52 st [52] Rnd 4: sc in next 24 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 25 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st [56] Rnd 5: sc in all 56 st [56] Rnd 6: sc in next 25 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 27 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st [60]
Rnd 7: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 8: sc in next 26 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 29 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st [64] Rnd 9: sc in all 64 st [64] Rnd 10: sc in next 27 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 31 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st [68] Rnd 11: sc in all 68 st [68] Rnd 12: sc in next 28 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 33 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st [72] Rnd 13: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 14: sc in next 29 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 35 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st [76] Rnd 15: sc in all 76 st [76] Rnd 16: sc in next 30 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 37 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st [80] Rnd 17: sc in all 80 st [80] Rnd 18: sc in next 31 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 39 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 8 st [84] Rnd 19: sc in all 84 st [84] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Finish the poncho by adding some fringes.
Rnd 19 Rnd 18 Rnd 17 Rnd 16 Rnd 15 Rnd 14 Rnd 13 Rnd 12 Rnd 11 Rnd 10 Rnd 9 Rnd 8 Rnd 7 Rnd 6 Rnd 5 Rnd 4 Rnd 3 Rnd 2 Rnd 1 4 sc repeat pattern
79
1 sc
A great sybarite, Lola was born in the mountains of Qinling, China, but has lived in San Francisco since she was ve. Unlike most of her relatives, whose diet is 99 % based on bamboo, Lola only eats this plant if it’s nicely stir-fried with onions, peas, crispy bacon and mushrooms. Yes, she prefers her meals a bit more elaborate and, if possible, she tries a different dish every day. Lola now works as a gastronomy writer for several magazines and specializes in agro-ecology. She’s one of Hans Grizzly Bear’s best friends (some even say there’s some romance in the air).
L LEV EL *
I L K
S
* *
(
)
Size: 9.5 inches / 24 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · off-white · charcoal gray · teal blue · white · leftover of pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
MUZZLE (in off-white) Ch 6. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 4 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st [12] Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st [18] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth and nose with black yarn. Stuff the muzzle lightly with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat
80
6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 54 st [54] In the next round, we continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and charcoal gray). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 13: (off-white) sc in next 19 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 3 st, (off-white) sc in next 19 st [54] Rnd 14: (off-white) sc in next 18 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 18 st [54] Rnd 15 – 16: (off-white) sc in next 17 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 17 st [54] Rnd 17: (off-white) sc in next 17 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (charcoal
81
gray) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 17 st [54] Rnd 18: (off-white) sc in next 17 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in next 17 st [54] Rnd 19 – 20: (off-white) sc in all 54 st [54] Sew the muzzle between rounds 12 and 17. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 2 stitches away from the snout. Embroider two cheeks with pink yarn. Rnd 21: (charcoal gray) (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 22 – 24: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 25 – 42: (off-white) sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 43: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 44 – 45: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 46: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 47: sc in all 48 st [48]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 6 stitches for the central space between the legs, 6 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Change to charcoal gray. Rnd 48 – 52: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 53: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 54: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
SECOND LEG Rejoin the charcoal gray yarn in the seventh unworked stitch at the back of round 47. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 48: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [18] Rnd 49 – 54: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 6 stitches between the legs closed.
EARS (make 2, in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears. Sew the ears to the head over rounds 4 to 10.
ARMS (make 2, in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 5 – 14: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 21 and 22.
TAIL (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 39.
82
SKIRT Note: For the skirt I use the jacquard technique,
following the diagram enclosed. If you are not condent using this technique, you can choose to crochet the entire skirt in one color. (start in teal blue) Ch 60. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1: sc in all 60 st [60] Continue working the next rounds in jacquard pattern, alternating teal blue and white yarn according to the diagram. Rnd 2: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 20 times [80] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 80 st [80] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 20 times [100] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 100 st [100] Rnd 8: slst in all 100 st [100] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
Rnd 7 Rnd 6 Rnd 5 Rnd 4 Rnd 3 Rnd 2 Rnd 1 1 sc Note: You may have to adjust the pattern slightly along the way in round 2 and
round 5, where increases are made. Each "V" represents an increase stitch.
83
Everyone knows that cheetahs are the fastest land animals. But Rosa is not so keen on sports or chasing other animals – she prefers her food in the shape of pizza, with mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce and a ton of olives on top. Rosa prefers to use her skills to read and study superfast. Thanks to that, she already has several university degrees under her belt, including one in robotics, informatics, civil and environmental engineering. She’s also nishing her degree in English Literature and she might start a new course in Philosophy. Some people may think this is all a little too much, but for Rosa, learning about everything that surrounds her is as important as breathing. She’d study anything really, anything but sports.
L L LE VE L * *
I K
S
Size: 12 inches / 30 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · mustard yellow · off-white · black · pastel pink · petrol blue · leftover of walnut brown – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] In the next round, we continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and mustard yellow). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 2: (off-white) inc in next 3 st, (mustard yellow) inc in next 3 st [12] Rnd 3: (off-white) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (mustard yellow) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 4: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (mustard yellow) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 5 – 6: (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (mustard yellow) sc in next 12 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. Stuff the nose lightly with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36]
84
85
Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 11 – 20: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Sew the snout between rounds 13 and 20. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Embroider the eyebrows with black yarn and the streaks on the forehead and cheeks with walnut brown yarn. Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 26: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the head rmly. Change to pastel pink yarn. Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 28: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 29 – 31: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 32: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 33 – 36: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 37: BLO sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 38 – 43: sc in all 36 st [36]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 44 – 71: sc in all 15 st [15] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 72: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10]
86
Rnd 73: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the mustard yellow yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 43. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 44: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th stitch of the leg, sc in rst stitch to join the round [15] Rnd 45 – 73: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed. Embroider streaks on the hips with walnut brown yarn.
ARMS (make 2, start in mustard yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 18: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to pastel pink yarn. Rnd 19 – 21: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 22: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 28 and 29.
EARS (make 2, start in black) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Change to mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider 3 little off-white stripes. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears before sewing.
87
TAIL (start in black) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 6: sc in all 10 st [10] Change to mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 7 – 10: sc in all 10 st [10] Stuff lightly and continue stufng as you go. Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in black and 3 rounds in mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 11 – 25: sc in all 10 st [10] Continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 1 round in black and 2 rounds in mustard yellow yarn. Rnd 26 – 42: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Add more stufng to the tail if needed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 38.
88
JUMPER DRESS (in petrol blue) Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 3: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 4: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 5 – 9: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 10: slst in all 60 st [60] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. We continue working the front bib. Work in rows on the center 8 stitches of round 1. Insert your hook with the right side facing you and draw up a loop. Row 1 – 4: sc in all 8 st, ch 1, turn [8] Row 5: sc in all 8 st [8] Do not fasten off. Make the shoulder straps and wasteband: Ch 26, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 25 st. Continue on the left side of the front bib, sc in next 5 row-ends. Continue on the wasteband, sc in next 34 st. Continue on the right side of the front bib, sc in next 5 row-ends. Ch 26, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 25 st. Continue on the top of the front bib, slst in next 8 st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Cross the shoulder straps at the back and sew to the dress with an interspace of 8 stitches.
89
After his great-grandfather became famous in a Bugs Bunny short lm singing “Hello, my baby”, Victor’s entire family entered the world of the performing arts, working both onstage and offstage. Victor preferred to be in the spotlights, so he studied his entire life to become an “old Hollywood” kind of artist. Like Fred Astaire or Gene Kelly, he’s not only a good actor, but also an outstanding singer and dancer. He has been travelling all around the world with his theatre company and knows practically everyone in the show business. Next year he’s starting a new production with his besties, Sir Ian McKellen and Sir Patrick Stewart. Victor is not jealous, but I think he would love to be named Sir as well.
LE VE I L L L * K S *
Size: 10.5 inches / 26 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · sage green · white · red · yellow · blue · leftover of pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
EYE WHITES (make 2, in white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the safety eyes in the center of the eye whites, but don’t close the washers yet.
HEAD AND BODY Note: For the undies I use the jacquard
crochet technique, following the diagram enclosed. If you are not condent using this technique, you can choose to crochet the undies in one color. (start in sage green) Start with the rst eye. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18]
90
Fasten off and weave in the yarn end on the rst eye. Repeat rounds 1 to 5 for the second eye, but do not cut the yarn as we will be joining the eyes in the next round to make the head. Rnd 6: ch 6, sc into the last st of the rst eye, sc in next 17 st of the rst eye, sc in next 6 ch, sc in next 18 st of the second eye, sc in next 6 ch [48] Rnd 7: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 8 – 14: sc in all 54 st [54] Insert the safety eyes with the eye whites between rounds 4 and 5 of the eyes on the head. Close the washers and sew the eye whites to the eyes. Embroider the cheeks with pink yarn. Rnd 15: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 16 – 26: sc in all 60 st [60] Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating white and red yarn (see the diagram page 93). Rnd 27 – 33: sc in all 60 st [60]
91
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 15 stitches for the central space between the legs, 15 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a
single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 34: sc in all 15 st [15] Change to sage green yarn. Rnd 35: BLO sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 36 – 54: sc in all 15 st [15] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SECOND LEG Rejoin the white yarn in the 16th
92
unworked stitch at the back of round 33. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 34: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th st of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [15] Rnd 35 – 54: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 15 stitches between the legs closed.
FLIPPERS (make 2, in yellow) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 9 – 18: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the ippers and, using a tapestry needle, close the opening in the last round. Sew the ippers to the legs.
Rnd 34 Rnd 33 Rnd 32 Rnd 31 Rnd 30 Rnd 29 Rnd 28 Rnd 27 11 sc
6 sc
1 sc
repeat pattern
93
ARMS (make 2, in sage green) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 20: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 14 and 15. FINGERS (in sage green) Insert the hook into a stitch of round 1, pull up a loop and ch 6. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, slst in next 5 st [5] Join with a slst to the next st of the arm. Ch 6 and repeat row 1 two more times. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
SHORTS (start in white) Ch 60. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating white and blue. Rnd 1 – 8: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 9: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 66 st [66]
94
SHORTS LEGS To make the shorts legs, divide the work, identifying 15 stitches for the central space between the legs, 15 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each shorts leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). Join the last stitch for the shorts leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this will be the rst stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches of the rst shorts leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst shorts leg: Rnd 13 – 16: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 17: slst in all 18 st [18] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
SECOND SHORTS LEG Rejoin the white yarn in the 16th unworked stitch at the back of round 12. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second shorts leg. Rnd 13 – 17: repeat the pattern for the rst shorts leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 15 stitches between the legs closed. WAISTBAND (in white) Join white yarn in the rst stitch of round 1. Rnd 1: slst in all 60 st [60] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
95
George started his career as a journalist, but his real dream has always been to become a science ction/fantasy novel writer. George didn’t quit his day job, because he knows being being a professional writer is not a walk walk in the park. But he’s not giving up on his dream, so he dedicates all of his free time to writing his rst novel. George has already published some short stories about time travels and space, his favorite subjects. And, although almost nobody knows (as George is very shy and doesn’t talk about himself that much), he’s also a great rock ‘n’ roll guitar player and he would love to have his own band. He already has a name for it: Enchanted under the Sea.
VE L L LE V L * *
I K
S
Size: 10 inches / 25 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · brown · charcoal gray · white · yellow · pink · light gray – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
BEAK
HEAD AND BODY
SMALL PART ATTACHED TO THE HEAD (in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 9: sc 9: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the beak.
(in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 18: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 19: (sc 19: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 20 – 26: sc 26: sc in all 60 st [60] Sew the small part of the beak to the head, between rounds 10 and 19. Sew the large part of the beak onto this small part. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 11 and 18, about 2 stitches away from the beak. Embroider the cheeks with pink yarn.
LARGE PART (in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 15: sc 15: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the beak.
96
97
Rnd 27: (sc 27: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 28 – 40: sc 40: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 41: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 42 – 44: sc 44: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 45: (sc 45: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 46 – 50: sc 50: sc in all 54 st [54]
Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 6: (sc 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 7 – 14: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off. The feet do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and, using a tapestry needle, close the opening in the last round.
LEGS
ARMS
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 9 stitches for the central space between the legs, 9 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 51 – 53: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 54: (sc 54: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 55 – 56: sc 56: sc in all 15 st [15] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not close.
(make 2, start in charcoal gray) Start with the ngers, make 3. Rnd 1: start 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 6 st [6] Fasten off the rst and second nger. For the third nger, repeat rounds 1-4, but do not fasten off as we will be joining the ngers together to make the hand. Rnd 5: join 5: join the third and second nger with a sc, sc in next 2 st of the second nger. Insert the hook into the rst nger, sc in all 6 st. Insert the hook back into the second nger, sc in leftover 3 st, insert the hook back in the third nger, sc in all 6 st [18] Close the gap between the ngers using the leftover yarn tails. Rnd 6: sc 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] Change to brown yarn. Rnd 8 – 10: sc 10: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 11: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 12 – 17: sc 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with ber ll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 23 and 24.
SECOND LEG Rejoin the brown yarn in the 10th unworked stitch at the back of round 50. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 51: sc in all 18 st. When you reach the 18th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [18] Rnd 52 – 56: repeat 56: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 9 stitches between the legs closed.
FEET (make 2, in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10]
TROUSERS (start in white) Ch 66. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral in a stripes pattern (2 rounds in white, 2 rounds in yellow). Rnd 1 – 7: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 8: (sc 8: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [72] Rnd 9: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 10: sc 10: sc in next 4 st, ch 14, skip next 14 st, sc in next 54 st [72]
98
99
TAIL
Rnd 11 – 15: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 16: (sc in next 10 st, dec) repeat 6 times [66] Rnd 17: sc in all 66 st [66]
TROUSER LEGS To make the trouser legs, divide the work, identifying 9 stitches for the central space between the legs, 9 stitches for the back and 24 stitches for each trouser leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). Make sure the gap for the tail is at the back. Join the last stitch for the trouser leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches of the rst trouser leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst trouser leg: Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 21: slst in all 24 st [24] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SECOND LEG Rejoin the yellow yarn in the 10th unworked stitch at the back of round 17. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second trouser leg. Rnd 18 – 21: repeat the pattern for the rst trouser leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 9 stitches between the legs closed.
(in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 13: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 4 times [32] Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 32 st [32] Rnd 16: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 4 times [28] Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 28 st [28] Rnd 19: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 4 times [24] Rnd 20 – 24: sc in all 24 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the tail to the body, taking into account the position of the gap in the trousers.
BOW TIE (in pink) Ch 15. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14] Row 2 – 7: BLO sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
WAISTBAND (in light gray) Join pink yarn in the rst stitch of round 1. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 66 st [66] Rnd 3: slst in all 66 st [66] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
MIDDLE RIBBON BAND (in pink) Ch 10. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 9 st [9] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the middle ribbon band around the center of the bow tie. Sew the bow tie underneath the beak.
100
101
Marcos was born in Misiones, Argentina. Like his father, who’s a renowned entomologist, Marcos works as a park ranger in the Iguazú National Park. He's a specialist in the native ora and the history of the lands that surround the park (but he doesn’t like bugs). He’s also a football fan – a Boca Juniors fan, naturally – and cannot live a day without having mate and like a dozen chipá (an infused herb beverage and cheese bread rolls, both traditional Guaraní). Lately, he has gained a few extra pounds. Maybe more than a dozen chipá per day is a little too much after all.
L L LE VE L * *
I K
S
Size: 12 inches / 30 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · orange · off-white · black · white · petrol blue · yellow · pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT (start in black) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 15 st [15] Change to orange yarn. Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 6 st [18] Rnd 9: sc in all 18 st [18] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and orange). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 10: (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (orange) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [18] Rnd 11: (off-white) sc in next 5 st (orange) sc in next 2 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 3 times, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [21] Rnd 12: (off-white) sc in next 5 st, (orange) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in next 5 st [21] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth with black yarn. Stuff the snout lightly with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in orange) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]
102
103
Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 13: sc in all 54 st [54] In the next rounds, we continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and orange). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 14: (orange) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (orange) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (orange) sc in next 14 st [54] Rnd 15: (orange) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (orange) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (orange) sc in next 13 st [54] Rnd 16 – 17: (orange) sc in next 22 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (orange) sc in next 22 st [54] Rnd 18: (orange) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st, (orange) sc in next 7 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (orange) sc in next 7 st, (off-white) sc in next 2 st, (orange) sc in next 13 st [54] Rnd 19 – 20: (orange) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 30 st, (orange) sc in next 12 st [54] Rnd 21: (orange) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times, (off-white) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times, (orange) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times [45] Rnd 22: (orange) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times, (off-white) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times, (orange) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 2 times [36] Rnd 23: (orange) sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, (offwhite) sc in next 2 st, (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 4 st, (orange) dec, sc in next 4 st, dec [30] Sew the snout between rounds 16 and 21. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 17 and 18, about 4 stitches away from the snout. Rnd 24: (orange) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, (offwhite) sc in next st, dec, (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times, (orange) sc in next 3 st, dec [24] Rnd 25: (orange) sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st, (offwhite) dec, (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 3 times, (orange) sc in next 2 st, dec [18] Rnd 26: (orange) sc in next 5 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (orange) sc in next 3 st [18] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing the color every round, alternating between white and petrol blue. Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24]
Rnd 28: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 29 – 31: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 32: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 33 – 37: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to orange yarn. Rnd 38: BLO sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 39 – 43: sc in all 36 st [36]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 44 – 67: sc in all 15 st [15] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 68: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 69: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close the gap. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the orange yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 43. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 44: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [15] Rnd 45 – 69: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.
ARMS (make 2, start in orange) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12]
104
Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 17: sc in all 12 st [12] Continue in a stripe pattern, changing the color every round, alternating between white and petrol blue. Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 28 and 29.
leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst shorts leg: Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 13: slst in all 18 st [18] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. SECOND SHORTS LEG Rejoin the yellow yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 8. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second shorts leg. Rnd 9 – 13: repeat the pattern for the rst shorts leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.
EARS
WAISTBAND (in pink) Join pink yarn in the rst stitch of round 1. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 3: slst in all 42 st [42] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
(make 2, start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Change to orange yarn. Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the ears before sewing.
SHORTS
TAIL
(in yellow) Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 3: sc in next 32 st, ch 9, skip next 9 st, sc in next st [42] Rnd 4 – 8: sc in all 42 st [42]
(start in orange) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 20 st [20] Change to black yarn and continue in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in black yarn and 3 rounds in orange yarn. Rnd 9 – 18: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 19: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 2 times [18] Rnd 20 – 28: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 29: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 2 times [16] Rnd 30 – 38: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 39: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 2 times [14] Rnd 40 – 43: sc in all 14 st [14] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the tail to the body, taking into account the position of the gap in the shorts.
SHORTS LEGS To make the shorts legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 18 stitches for each shorts leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). Join the last stitch for the shorts leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the shorts leg). Now the stitches of the rst shorts
105
Don’t be fooled by her sweet and fragile appearance: Audrey really is a badass comic artist, writer and illustrator. Maybe it’s because they also have horns, or maybe it’s just because they’re awesome creatures, but her favorite characters are dragons and unicorns … or any medieval or mythological creature really. She especially loves the creatures in the legends of King Arthur. Her next step is to write and produce animated series for her stories. And, who knows, maybe she’ll also get to work on a couple of lms.
LE VE I L L L * K S *
Size: 14.5 inches / 37 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (horns included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · ochre · off-white · slate gray · dark gray · pastel pink · leftover of black · leftover of light pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
(ochre) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in
SNOUT (start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Continue working with alternating colors (off-white and ochre). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 5: (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (ochre) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [18] Rnd 6: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (ochre) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [24] Rnd 7 – 8: (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ochre) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st [24] Rnd 9: (off-white) (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (ochre) (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (off-white) (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [30] Rnd 10 – 11: (off-white) sc in next 10 st,
106
next 10 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. Stuff the snout with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in ochre) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60]
107
Rnd 11 – 14: sc in all 60 st [60] Continue working with alternating colors (ochre and off-white). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 15: (ochre) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (ochre) sc in next 20 st, (off-white) sc in next 4 st, (ochre) sc in next 16 st [60] Rnd 16: (ochre) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ochre) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ochre) sc in next 14 st [60] Rnd 17 – 19: (ochre) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (ochre) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (ochre) sc in next 12 st [60] Rnd 20: (ochre) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (ochre) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (ochre) sc in next 13 st [60] Rnd 21: (ochre) sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ochre) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ochre) sc in next 14 st [60] Continue in ochre yarn. Rnd 22: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 23: (sc 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 24: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Rnd 25: (sc 25: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Sew the snout between rounds 15 and 24. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 27: (sc 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 28: sc 28: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the head rmly. Change to slate gray yarn. Rnd 29: (sc 29: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 30: (sc 30: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 31 – 33: sc 33: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 34: (sc 34: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 35 – 40: sc 40: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to ochre yarn. Rnd 41: BLO 41: BLO sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 42 – 46: sc in all 36 st [36]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 s titches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 15 stitches for each leg (you may nd it use ful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 47 – 72: sc 72: sc in all 15 st [15] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 73: (sc 73: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 74: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the ochre yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 46. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 47: sc in all 15 st. When you reach the 15th st of the leg, sc in rst stitch to join the round [15] Rnd 48 – 74: repeat 74: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.
108
ARMS
Sew the inner ear to the center of the inside of the ochre ear. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the head.
(make 2, in ochre) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 21: (sc 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 30 and 31.
(make 2, in dark gray) Rnd 1: start 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc 3: inc in next 5 st [10] Rnd 4 – 20: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.
OUTER EARS
TAIL
(make 2, in ochre) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8: sc 8: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 9: (sc 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 10 – 17: sc in all 25 st [25] Rnd 18: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed.
(in ochre) Rnd 1: start 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 43.
INNER EARS (make 2, in off-white) Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in this st, sc in next 10 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 11 st [26] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in last st [32] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
HORNS
SKIRT (in pastel pink) Ch 42. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 2: (sc 2: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 3: (sc 3: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 4: (sc 4: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 5 – 8: sc 8: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 9: slst 9: slst in all 60 st [60] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. WAISTBAND (in light pink) Join light pink yarn in the rst stitch of round 1 of the skirt. Rnd 1: sc 1: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 2: slst in all 42 st [42] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
109
Harry may look a bit like a hipster, but he claims he’s been fashionable and good-looking good-looking since he was a teeny-tiny puppy. He also claims to have loved music ever since his puppy days. Harry likes all kinds of music, from all decades and from all around the world. He has dedicated his entire life to learning and writing about music. Harry is also learning to play the accordion and the bagpipes, just because he thinks they’re the most quirky and unique instruments around. Perhaps he’s a bit of a hipster after all.
VE L L LE V L * *
I K S
Size: 13 inches / 33 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · ash gray · off-white · ochre · brown · light blue · leftover of pastel pink · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
SNOUT
HEAD AND BODY
(start in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and ash gray). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 4 – 5: (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (ash gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [18] Rnd 6: (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (ash gray) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, (off-white) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [24] Rnd 7 – 9: (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (ash gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn. Stuff the snout with berll.
(start in ash gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: sc 10: sc in all 54 st [54] Continue working with alternating yarns (ash gray and off-white). The color you work with is indicated before each line.
are worked in one piece.
110
111
Rnd 11: (ash gray) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (ash gray) sc in next 16 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st, (ash gray) sc in next 13 st [54] Rnd 12: (ash gray) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 9 st, (ash gray) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 9 st, (ash gray) sc in next 12 st [54]
repeat 3 times, dec, sc in next 7 st [68] Rnd 20: sc in next 7 st, dec 7 times, sc in next 26 st, dec 7 times, sc in next 7 st [54] Rnd 21: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 22: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 23: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 21. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 3 stitches away from the snout. Rnd 24: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 25: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 26: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 27: sc in all 18 st [18] Stuff the head. Change to ochre yarn. Rnd 28: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 29: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 30 – 32: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 33: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 34 – 37: sc in all 36 st [36] Change to ash gray yarn. Rnd 38: BLO sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 39 – 43: sc in all 36 st [36]
LEGS
Rnd 13: (ash gray) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (ash gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (ash gray) sc in next 11 st [54] Rnd 14 – 16: (ash gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 14 st, (ash gray) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 14 st, (ash gray) sc in next 10 st [54] Continue in off-white yarn. Rnd 17: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 7 st, sc in next 26 st, inc in next 7 st, sc in next 7 st [68] Rnd 18: sc in next 8 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 27 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, inc in next st, sc in next 7 st [76] Rnd 19: sc in next 8 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, dec, sc in next 27 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st)
To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 2 stitches for the central space between the legs, 2 stitches for the back and 16 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 44 – 67: sc in all 16 st [16] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 68: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 4 times [12] Rnd 69: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. SECOND LEG Rejoin the ash gray yarn in the third unworked stitch at the back of round 43. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg.
112
Rnd 44: sc in all 16 st. When you reach the 16th stitch of the leg, sc in rst st to join the round [16] Rnd 45 – 69: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 2 stitches between the legs closed.
ARMS (make 2, start in ash gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 10 st [12] Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to ochre yarn. Rnd 17 – 20: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 21: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 28 and 29.
EARS
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 8: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 10 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 16: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 25 st [25] Rnd 19: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 23 – 24: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 25: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 26 – 29: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail. Sew the tail to the back, centered over round 40.
CHEEKS (make 2, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head.
SCARF / COWL
(make 2, in ash gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 6 – 12: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider off-white stripes. Flatten before sewing.
(in brown) Ch 40. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 10: hdc in all 40 st [40] Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.
MITTENS TAIL
(make 2, in light blue) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: inc in all 8 st [16] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 6-dc-bobble st in next st, sc in next 14 st [16] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 8: single rib crochet in all 16 st [16] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
(in ash gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
113
The rst thing you’ll noticed about Hector is that he loves to be a tourist in the most touristy way: owered T-shirts, shorts and that “vacation mode” way of living, just chilling by the pool, watching the birds y by. As a child, Hector spent hours and hours watching the animals of the savannah, especially the oxpeckers, the birds that accompanied him everywhere he went. Now, that ability to stay still for hours and pass unnoticed as a tourist is what allows him to do his work. Hector is an ethologist you see, he studies animal behavior in their natural habitats (much like an anthropologist or sociologist, but for animals).
EV L L L EL
I K
S
* *
*
Size: 13.5 inches / 34 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · gray · off-white · white · yellow · green · light blue · leftover of pink · leftover of brown · leftover of avocado green – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
HEAD AND BODY Note: For the undies I use the jacquard
crochet technique, following the diagram enclosed. If you are not condent using this technique, you can choose to crochet the undies in one color. (start in gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: ch 13. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch you’ll make, as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point. Crochet back on the chain: inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the head, sc next 24 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 11 st, inc in last st [51] Rnd 6: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 47 st, inc in next 2 st [55] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 11 times [66] Rnd 8: sc in all 66 st [66]
114
Rnd 9: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 11 times [77] Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 77 st [77] Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 45 st, (dec, sc in next 3 st) repeat 3 times, dec [70] Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 54 st, (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [66] Rnd 23: (sc in next 9 st, dec) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 24: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 42 st, (dec, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [54] Rnd 25: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 36 st, (dec, sc in next st) repeat 3 times [48] Rnd 26: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, with an interspace of 44 stitches. Rnd 27: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 18 st, (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 3 times [36] Rnd 28: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 29: sc in next 15 st [15] Do not nish this round. Place the stitch marker in the next st, as this is
115
going to be the beginning of each round from this point (the back of the rhinoceros head). Rnd 30: sc in all 30 st [30] Change to white yarn. Rnd 31: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 33 – 37: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 38: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 39 – 43: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 44: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Embroider the embellishments on the T-shirt. Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 45: BLO sc in all 54 st [54] Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating yellow and light blue yarn (see the diagram on page 119). Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 48: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 49 – 51: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 52: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 53: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 54: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 55: sc in all 48 st [48]
SECOND LEG Rejoin the yellow yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 54. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 56: sc in all 21 st. When you reach the 21th stitch of the leg, sc in rst stitch to join the round [21] Change to gray yarn. Rnd 57 – 74: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 3 stitches between the legs closed.
LARGE HORN
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 21 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 56: sc in all 21 st [21] Change to gray yarn. Rnd 57: BLO sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 58 – 72: sc in all 21 st [21] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 73: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 7 times [14] Rnd 74: dec 7 times [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
116
(in gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 12: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 13 – 14: sc in all 25 st [25] Rnd 15: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [30] Rnd 16: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll.
SMALL HORN (in gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll.
117
EARS
TROUSER LEGS
(make 2, in gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5 ] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4 – 8: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears on top of the head over rounds 3 to 5.
To make the trouser legs, divide the work, identifying 3 stitches for the central space between the legs, 3 stitches for the back and 27 stitches for each trouser leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). Join the last stitch for the trouser leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the trouser leg). Now the stitches of the rst trouser leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst trouser leg, changing color every round: Rnd 15 – 21: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 22: slst in all 27 st [27] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
ARMS (make 2, start in gray) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 4: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 5: sc in next st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 13 st [15] Rnd 6 – 16: sc in all 15 st [15] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 17 – 21: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 22: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with berll. Embroider embellishments on the T-shirt sleeve. Sew the arms on both sides between rounds 31 and 32.
SECOND LEG Rejoin the white yarn in the fourth unworked stitch at the back of round 14. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second trouser leg. Rnd 15 – 22: repeat the pattern for the rst trouser leg. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Using a tapestry needle, close the opening of the body sewing the 3 stitches between the legs closed. WAISTBAND (in yellow) Join yellow yarn in the rst stitch of round 1. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 3: slst in all 54 st [54] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.
TROUSERS
CHEEKS
(start in white) Ch 54. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral in a stripe pattern, changing color every round, alternating white and green. Rnd 1 – 4: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 5: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 6 – 14: sc in all 60 st [60]
(make 2, in pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head.
118
Rnd 55 Rnd 54 Rnd 53 Rnd 52 Rnd 51 Rnd 50 Rnd 49 Rnd 48 Rnd 47 Rnd 46 Rnd 45 Rnd 44 4 sc
1 sc
repeat pattern
119
Charles always liked toys, even long after passing the age where having toys is considered normal. Therefore, becoming a toy maker was the natural path for him. As his family is in the construction business, he could easily get a lot of materials to work with. In order to master his craft, he had to learn it all by himself. Luckily, Charles loves books … and you can nd anything you need to learn in books. So he started making construction sets, and with time and practice, Charles made more elaborated toys, such as dollhouses and small furniture, trains and all kinds of toy animals. Lately, he’s been really excited because he’s learning how to make mechanical toys and automatons. Because you can always learn something new when reading books!
EV EL
L L L
I K S
* *
*
Size: 8.5 inches / 21.5 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (crest feathers included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · red · off-white · blue · light blue · leftover of pastel pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
BEAK (in blue) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [7] Rnd 4: sc in all 7 st [7] Rnd 5: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [9] Rnd 6: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 7: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next st [11] Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 11 st [11] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the beak lightly with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (start in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 48 st [48]
120
121
Continue working with alternate colors (red and off-white). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 11: (red) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (red) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (red) sc in next 10 st [48] Rnd 12: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (red) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (red) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 13: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (red) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 11 st, (red) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 14: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (red) sc in next 6 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (red) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 15: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 13 st, (red) sc in next 4 st, (off-white) sc in next 13 st, (red) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 16: (red) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 30 st, (red) sc in next 9 st [48] Cut the red yarn, continue in off-white, blue and light blue yarn as indicated. Rnd 17: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 12 st, (light blue) sc in next 9 st, (blue) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 18: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 10 st, (light blue) sc in next 10 st, (blue) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 19: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (light blue) sc in next 11 st, (blue) sc in next 9 st [48] Sew the beak between rounds 13 and 16. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, about 5 stitches away from the beak. Cut the off-white yarn. Rnd 20 – 26: (blue) sc in next 9 st, (light blue) sc in next 30 st, (blue) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 27: ch 7. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch, as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain: inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body, sc in next 48 st (alternating blue and light blue alike in the previous rounds, as they appear), continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 5 st, inc in last st [63] Continue alternating blue and light blue as they appear Rnd 28: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 59 st, inc in next 2 st [67] Rnd 29 – 30: sc in all 67 st [67] Rnd 31: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 57 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [65]
122
Rnd 32: sc in all 65 st [65] Rnd 33: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 21 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [61] Rnd 34: sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 23 st [59] Rnd 35: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 16 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [55] Rnd 36: sc in next 23 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 18 st [53] Rnd 37: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 22 st, dec, sc in next 19 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [50] Rnd 38: sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 40 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [48] Rnd 39: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Stuff the body rmly. Rnd 40: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 41: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 42: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 43: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 44: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times[12] Rnd 45: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Use pastel pink yarn to embroider V-shaped details on the chest and a horizontal line underneath the eye.
WINGS (make 2, start in blue) We work in a stripe pattern, alternating 2 rounds in blue yarn and 2 rounds in off-white yarn. Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 14: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 15: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 16 – 18: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 19: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 20 – 22: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The wings do not need to be stuffed. Flatten the wings. Sew the wings diagonally on both sides, between rounds 17 and 22.
CREST FEATHERS (make 3, in red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 7: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 8: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 10: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 11: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 12: sc in all 9 st [9] Stuff lightly with berll. Rnd 13: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times [6] Rnd 14: sc in all 6 st [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Leave a long tail to attach the feathers.
TAIL (in blue) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back, centered over rounds 29 to 30.
FEET (make 2, in blue) Rnd 1: start 8 sc in a magic ring [8] Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [8] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with berll. Sew the feet to the front, over rounds 36 to 39.
123
Just like one of her best friends – Murray Sea Otter – Bonny was born by the sea and only leaves her islands to sail. Si nce she was a chick, Bonny has been fascinated by the boats, ships and yachts that sailed on the sea, so she studied very, very hard to become a naval architect (although she’s not such a big fan of studying). Bonny specializes in sailing yachts because she loves to feel the wind in the sails and the water under the hull. Every once in a while, Bonny visits Murray and they go sailing up to Greenland. For their next adventure, they’re planning a trip to warmer waters, like the Caribbean Sea. Murray is really looking forward to seeing some of the sunken ships and galleons. Bonny thinks that nding some treasures doesn’t sound bad either.
EV EL
L L L
I K S
* *
*
Size: 10 inches / 26 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · charcoal gray · off-white · yellow · coral pink · white · wine red · leftover of slate gray – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
BEAK
HEAD AND BODY
(start in coral pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in next 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Change to slate gray yarn. Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 20 st [20] Change to yellow yarn. Rnd 9: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Flatten the beak vertically before sewing.
(start in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: sc in all 48 st [48] Continue working with alternate yarns (charcoal gray and off-white). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 10: (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 22 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st [48] Rnd 11: (charcoal gray) sc in next 11 st,
CHEEKS (make 2, in coral pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
124
125
(off-white) sc in next 26 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next
Rnd 43: sc in all 70 st [70] Rnd 44: sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next 12 st, dec, sc in next 27 st [68] Rnd 45: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 60 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [66] Rnd 46: sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 27 st [64] Rnd 47: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 56 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [62] Rnd 48: sc in next 27 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 27 st [60] Rnd 49: (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat 6 times [54] Stuff the head and body rmly with berll. Rnd 50: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 51: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 52: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 53: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 54: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 55: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 56: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 57: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Add more stufng if needed. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
11 st [48] Rnd 12: (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 28 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st [48] Rnd 13: (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 30 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 14: (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 32 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st [48] Rnd 15: (charcoal gray) sc in next 7 st, (off-white) sc in next 34 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 7 st [48] Rnd 16: (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st, (off-white) sc in next 32 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 8 st [48] Rnd 17: (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 30 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 9 st [48] Rnd 18: (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st, (off-white) sc in next 28 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 10 st [48] Rnd 19: (charcoal gray) sc in next 11 st, (off-white) sc in next 26 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 11 st [48] Rnd 20: (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st, (off-white) sc in next 22 st, (charcoal gray) sc in next 13 st [48] Rnd 21: (charcoal gray) (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Sew the beak between rounds 11 and 20, in the middle of the off-white patch. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16, about 4 stitches from the beak. Using black yarn, embroider a small line behind the eye. Sew the little cheeks between rounds 17 and 20, about 1 stitch from the beak. Continue in jacquard pattern, alternating white and yellow (see the diagram). Rnd 22 – 30: sc in all 54 st [54] Change to charcoal gray yarn. Rnd 31 – 34: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 35: ch 6. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch. This is going to be the beginning of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the body, sc in next 54 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 4 st, inc in last st [66] Rnd 36: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 62 st, inc in next 2 st [70] Rnd 37: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 66 st, inc in next 2 st [74] Rnd 38 – 39: sc in all 74 st [74] Rnd 40: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 66 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [72] Rnd 41: sc in all 72 st [72] Rnd 42: sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 64 st, dec, sc in next 2 st [70]
WINGS (make 2, in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the wings. Sew the wings on both sides between rounds 31 and 32.
LEGS (make 2, in coral pink) The legs are crocheted in 2 parts.
126
LEG Ch 10. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 8: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the leg. FOOT Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and, using the leftover yarn tail, close the opening in the last round. Sew the feet to the legs. Sew the legs to the body, over rounds 51 to 54.
HAT (in wine red) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 12 – 14: single rib crochet in all 48 st [48] Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Make a pom-pom and sew it to the tip of the hat.
Rnd 9 Rnd 8 Rnd 7 Rnd 6 Rnd 5 Rnd 4 Rnd 3 Rnd 2 Rnd 1 6 sc repeat pattern
127
1 sc
Hugo and his family are from India, and they prefer to be called “ying foxes”. Hugo worked several years at the post ofce and eventually fell in love with all the languages that are spoken in his home country – in India there are about 30 ofcial languages! Today, besides working as a postman (or postbat!), Hugo works as a professional translator for several non-prot organizations all around the world. He really enjoys meeting new people from different cultures. But no matter where he is or what job he’s doing, Hugo can’t do without a mango smoothie with banana bread to start the day.
L L LE VE L *
I K
S
Size: 11.5 inches / 29 cm tall (ears included) 19.5 inches / 50 cm long (wings wide open) when made with the indicated yarn Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · petrol blue · aqua blue · slate gray · ochre · white · pastel pink · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (8 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT (in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the nose and mouth with black yarn, and embroider two small teeth using white yarn. Stuff the snout with berll.
HEAD AND BODY (in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [60] Rnd 11 – 20: sc in all 60 st [60] Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 12 times [48] Rnd 22: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 12 times [36] Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]
128
129
Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 19. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 4 stitches away from the snout. Embroider the cheeks with pastel pink. Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 25: sc in all 24 st [24] Stuff the head rmly. Rnd 26: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 27: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 28 – 31: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 33 – 48: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 49: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 50 – 51: sc in all 36 st [36]
LEGS To make the legs, divide the work, identifying 4 stitches for the central space between the legs, 4 stitches for the back and 14 stitches for each leg (you may nd it useful to use stitch markers). If the legs don’t line up nicely with the head, crochet a few more sc on the body or undo them. Join the last stitch for the leg on the back side to the front side, working a single crochet stitch (this sc will be the rst stitch of the leg). Now the stitches of the rst leg are joined in the round. Continue working the rst leg: Rnd 52 – 56: sc in all 14 st [14] Stuff the body and leg rmly. Rnd 57: dec 7 times [7] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. SECOND LEG Rejoin the petrol blue yarn in the fth unworked stitch at the back of round 51. This is where we start the rst stitch of the second leg. Rnd 52: sc in all 14 st. When you reach the 14th stitch of the leg, sc in the rst st to join into the round [14] Rnd 53 – 57: repeat the pattern for the rst leg. Stuff the second leg and add more stufng to the body if needed. Using a tapestry needle, sew the 4 stitches between the legs closed.
ARMS (make 2, in petrol blue) The arms are crocheted in 2 parts. LONG PART Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Stuff with berll and continue stufng as you go. Rnd 4 – 38: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. SHORT PART Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Stuff with berll and continue stufng as you go. Rnd 4 – 28: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
WINGS (make 2, in aqua blue) Ch 26. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 25 st, ch 1, turn [25] Row 2: sc in next 24 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [26] Row 3: sc in all 26 st, ch 1, turn [26] Row 4: sc in next 25 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [27] Row 5: sc in all 27 st, ch 1, turn [27] Row 6: sc in next 26 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [28] Row 7: sc in all 28 st, ch 1, turn [28] Row 8: sc in next 27 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [29] Row 9: sc in all 29 st, ch 1, turn [29] Row 10: sc in next 28 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [30] Row 11: sc in all 30 st, ch 1, turn [30] Row 12: sc in next 29 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [31] Row 13: sc in all 31 st, ch 1, turn [31] Row 14: sc in next 30 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 15: sc in all 32 st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 16: sc in next 31 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [33] Row 17: sc in all 33 st, ch 1, turn [33] Row 18: sc in next 32 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [34] Row 19: sc in all 34 st, ch 1, turn [34]
130
Row 20: sc in next 33 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [35] Row 21: sc in all 35 st, ch 1, turn [35] Row 22: dec, sc in next 32 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [35] Row 23: sc in next 32 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [34] Row 24: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 28 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [32] Row 25: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 26 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [30] Row 26: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [28] Row 27: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 22 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [26] Row 28: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 20 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [24] Row 29: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 18 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [22] Row 30: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 16 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [20] Row 31: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 14 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [18] Row 32: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 12 st, dec, sc in
next st, ch 1, turn [16] Row 33: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [14] Row 34: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [12] Row 35: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [10] Row 36: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [8] Row 37: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [6] Row 38: sc in next st, dec 2 times, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [4] Row 39: dec 2 times, ch 1, turn [2] Row 40: dec [1] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. ASSEMBLY OF THE WINGS Using the tapestry needle. Sew the longest side of the wing to the long part of the arm. Then, sew the short part of the arm to the long part of the arm, between rounds 6 and 10. Sew the other side of the wing to the short part of the arm. Sew the long part of the arm to the body, between rounds 27 and 30. And, nally, sew the side of the wing to the body.
131
132
OUTER EARS
SCARF
(make 2, in petrol blue) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 9: (sc 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 10: sc in all 25 st [25] Rnd 11: (sc 11: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [30] Rnd 12 – 18: sc 18: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 19: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25] Rnd 20: sc 20: sc in all 25 st [25] Rnd 21: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 22: sc 22: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the ears.
(in ochre) Ch 98. Crochet in rows Row 1: sc 1: sc in 4th ch from the hook, (ch 1, skip 1 ch, sc in next st) repeat to end, ch 2, turn. Row 2: sc 2: sc in the next ch-1 space (ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space) repeat to end, nishing with a sc in the ch-3 space at the start of Row 1, ch 2, turn. Row 3 – 9: sc 9: sc in next ch-1 space, (ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space) repeat to end, nishing with a sc in the ch-2 space at the start of the previous row, ch 2, turn. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends. Make 6 pompons, in white, pastel pink and slate gray. Sew 3 to the end of each side.
INNER EARS (make 2, in slate gray) Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in this st, sc in next 10 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 11 st [26] Rnd 2: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in last st [32] Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the inner ear to the center of the inside of the outer ear. Sew the ears over rounds 3 to 12 of the head.
133
Marcia was born in the Patacancha Valley, in Peru. She’s a gifted crafter from a large community community of alpacas and vicuñas. Marcia works works every day, together with all the members of her village, to make sure that everyone has a good and sustainable job. She has also been studying and collecting information about all the ancient techniques of textile handicrafts and weavings from her home country, country, quite a lot to learn if you take into account account that Peru has the longest tradition of textile production, going back over 10,000 years!
EV E EL
L L L
I K S
* *
*
Size: 14 inches / 35.5 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (standing, ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · mustard · off-white · colors of your choice for the blanket and ear tufts · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll Note: the head and body
are worked in one piece.
SNOUT (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 9: sc in all 30 st [30] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Embroider the mouth and nose with black yarn. Stuff the snout.
HEAD AND BODY (in mustard yarn) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6: (sc 6: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 7: (sc 7: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 8: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [54] Rnd 10 – 18: sc 18: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 19: (sc 19: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 20: (sc 20: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 21: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
134
135
Rnd 22: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 23: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Sew the snout between rounds 14 and 21. The snout must be placed on the opposite side of the start of the round. Insert the safety eyes between rounds 16 and 17, about 4 stitches away from the snout. Stuff the head with berll. Rnd 24 – 37: sc in all 24 st [24] Stuff the neck rmly with berll. Rnd 38: ch 15. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch, as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain: inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 13 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neck, sc next 24 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 13 st, inc in last st [55] Rnd 39: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 52 st, inc in next st [58] Rnd 40: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 52 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [61] Rnd 41: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 54 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [64] Rnd 42: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, sc in next 54 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [68] Rnd 43 – 53: sc in all 68 st [68]
LEGS (in mustard) We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, nd the middle back stitch of the alpaca body. If you are not already there, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 11 st, ch 7. Join the last ch and the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. The leg will be formed with 11 sc of the body and the ch-7 foundation chain. Continue working the rst back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 18 st (11 on the body and 7 on the chain) [18] Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 5: sc in next 16 st, dec [17] Rnd 6: sc in all 17 st [17] Rnd 7: sc in next 15 st, dec [16] Rnd 8: sc in all 16 st [16] Rnd 9: sc in next 14 st, dec [15] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 12: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 13: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
136
FIRST FRONT LEG Count 8 stitches along from the rst back leg (this will become the belly) and attach mustard yarn to the 9th stitch. Sc in next 11 st, ch 7 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 13: repeat rounds 1-13 of the rst back leg. SECOND FRONT LEG Count 4 st to the left of the rst front leg (this is the space between the legs) and attach mustard yarn to the 5th stitch. Sc in next 11 st, ch 7 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 13: repeat rounds 1-13 of the rst back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 8 st to the left of the second front leg (this is the other side of the belly) and attach mustard yarn to the 9th stitch. Sc in next 11 st, ch 7 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 13: repeat rounds 1-13 of the rst back leg.
BELLY Between the legs, you have 8 stitch spaces along the sides and 4 stitch spaces at the front and back. We make the belly by crocheting aps on these stitches. Start with the 8 stitch space along the side. Attach mustard yarn to the rst stitch next to the rst leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 14: sc in next 8 st, ch 1, turn [8] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back ap, attach mustard yarn to the rst stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 4: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the ap between the front legs in the same way. ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front ap to both front legs and the back ap to both back legs. Stuff each leg rmly with berll. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly ap to the other side of the alpaca. Then sew the belly ap to both legs and the aps between them, stufng the body as you go.
137
138
139
EARS
TAIL
(make 2, in mustard) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6 – 15: sc in all 15 st [15] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears on top of the head over rounds 6 to 8. Finish the ears by adding a colorful tassel to the tip.
(in mustard) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 8: sc in all 10 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the tail. Sew the tail to the back over round 40.
AGUAYO / BLANKET ROUNDED BLANKET VERSION (in the colors of your choice) Ch 13. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foundation chain. Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 11 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation chain, sc in next 10 st, inc in next st [26] Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 10 st, inc in next 2 st [32] Rnd 3: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next st [40] Rnd 4: sc in next st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 13 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 13 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [48] Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 14 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 14 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st [56] Rnd 6: sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 18 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 18 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st [64] Rnd 7: sc in all 64 st [64] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish the blanket by adding some tassels to the short sides.
RECTANGLE BLANKET VERSION (in the colors of your choice) Ch 15. Crochet in rows. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14] Row 2 – 23: sc in next 14 st, ch 1, turn [14] Row 24: sc in next 14 st [14] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish the blanket by adding some tassels to the short sides.
NECKLACE Make 7 pom-poms in various colors. Draw a piece of yarn through the center of all 7 pom-poms and put the necklace around the alpaca's neck.
140
141
Daniel Jack is a librarian with a master in Library Science. He’s also a great baker known for his sourdough bread and cinnamon rolls. And, occasionally, Daniel works as a bartender. He says he likes it because he can wear his beloved bow tie to work. Drinks and rolls aside, what he really adores most of all are books. Not only because of all the knowledge they contain, but also for the book itself, the physical object. Daniel Jack loves the scent of books so much that he can tell you the date of printing just by snifng the paper.
L LEV EL
L
I K S
* *
*
Size: 6 inches / 15 cm tall 6 inches /15 cm long when made with the indicated yarn (standing, ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · off-white · brown · black · blue – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll
HEAD (start in black) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Change to off-white yarn. Rnd 5: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 7: sc in next 8 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 2 st [20] Rnd 8: sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 7 st [22] Continue working with alternating yarns (off-white and brown). The color you work with is indicated before each line. Rnd 9: (off-white) sc in next 10 st, inc in next st, (brown) sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [24] Rnd 10: (off-white) sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, (brown) (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [30] Rnd 11: (off-white) sc in next 15 st, (brown) sc in next st 9 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [30] Rnd 12: (off-white) sc in next 8 st, (inc
142
in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, (brown) (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [36] Rnd 13: (off-white) sc in next 18 st, (brown) sc in next 12 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [36] Rnd 14: (off-white) sc in next 9 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 2 times, inc in next st, (brown) (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [42] Rnd 15: (off-white) sc in next 21 st, (brown) sc in next 15 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [42] Rnd 16: (off-white) sc in next 20 st, inc in next st, (brown) inc in next st, sc in next 14 st, (off-white) sc in next 6 st [44] Rnd 17 – 18: (off-white) sc in next 22 st, (brown) sc in next 16 st, (offwhite) sc in next 6 st [44] Continue in off-white yarn. Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 44 st [44] Rnd 21: sc in next 20 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 20 st [42] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, with about an interspace of 21 stitches. Embroider the mouth using black yarn. Rnd 22: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36]
143
Rnd 23: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 24: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 25: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Stuff the head rmly. Rnd 26: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 27: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
BODY (in off-white) We start with the neck. Ch 15. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 3: ch 15. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch, as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 13 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neck, sc next 15 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 13 st, inc in last st [46] Rnd 4: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 19 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st, inc in last st [50] Rnd 5: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 45 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [52] Rnd 6: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 20 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [56] Rnd 7: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 49 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [58] Rnd 8: sc in next 27 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 25 st [60] Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 60 st [60]
LEGS (in off-white) We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, nd the middle back stitch of the body. If you are not already there, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 9 st, ch 6. Join the last ch and the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. The leg will be formed with 9 sc of the body and the ch-6 foundation chain. Continue working the rst back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 15 st (9 on the body and 6 on the chain) [15] Rnd 2: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 3: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 4: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8] Rnd 6: dec 4 times [4] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FIRST FRONT LEG Count 9 stitches along from the rst back leg (this will be come the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 10th stitch. Sc in next 9 st, ch 6 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 6: repeat rounds 1-6 of the rst back leg. SECOND FRONT LEG Count 3 stitches to the left of the rst front leg (this is the space between the legs) and attach off-white yarn to the 4th stitch. Sc in next 9 st, ch 6 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 6: repeat rounds 1-6 of the rst back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 9 stitches to the left of the second front leg (this is the other side of the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 10th stitch. Sc in next 9 st, ch 6 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 6: repeat rounds 1-6 of the rst back leg. BELLY Between the legs you have 9 stitch spaces along the sides and 3 stitch spaces at the front and back. We make the belly
144
SPOT
by crocheting aps on these stitches. Start with the 9 stitch space along the side. Attach off-white yarn to the rst stitch next to the rst leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 9: sc in next 9 st, ch 1, turn [9] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
LARGE SPOT (in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the spot to the body.
FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back ap, attach off-white yarn to the rst stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 3: sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn [3] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the ap between the front legs in the same way.
SMALL SPOT (in brown) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the spot to the body.
ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front ap to both front legs and the back ap to both back legs. Stuff each leg rmly with berll. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly ap to the other side of the body. Then sew the belly ap to both legs and the aps between them, stufng the body as you go. Sew the head to the body.
BOW TIE EARS
(in blue) Ch 32. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 7: sc in all 32 st [32] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.
(make 2, 1 in off-white, 1 in black) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8 – 12: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the ears. Sew the ear to the head over rounds 17 to 24.
MIDDLE RIBBON Ch 13. Do not join. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 12 st [12] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. NECK RIBBON Ch 21. Do not join. Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pinch the bow tie together and sew the middle ribbon around the middle of the bow tie. Wrap the neck ribbon around the dog’s neck and sew the end to the other side of the back of the bow tie.
TAIL (in black) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2 – 5: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The tail does not need to be stuffed. Sew the tail to the back over round 5.
145
No one knows where he came from, but Robin feels superlucky and thankful to have been raised with so much love by a Himalayan horse herd. Not every lost animal has had the same fortune, so Robin invented an app that allows you to nd any mythological, legendary or unique creature in the world, but only if they want to be found. And as Robin got rich with this idea, he also founded a non-prot organization that provides home and shelter all around the planet to help any creature in need, magical or not.
EV EL
L L L
I K S
* *
*
Size: 12.5 inches / 32 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn (standing, horn included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · off-white · light blue · yellow · pink – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (12 mm) – Fiberll
HEAD (in off-white) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 6 – 9: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 10: sc in next 12 st, inc in next 6 st, sc in next 12 st [36] Rnd 11: sc in next 13 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 11 st [42] Rnd 12: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 13: sc in next 14 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 10 st [48] Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 48 st [48] Rnd 16: sc in next 15 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 9 st [54] Rnd 17 – 28: sc in all 54 st [54] Rnd 29: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 30: sc in all 48 st [48] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, with an interspace of about 26 stitches. Rnd 31: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 32: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 33: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 34: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 35: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Stuff the head rmly with berll. Rnd 36: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 37: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
146
147
BODY (in off-white) Start with the neck. Ch 27. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 4: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 5: ch 13. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch you’ll make, as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain, inc in second ch from hook, sc in next 11 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neck, sc in next 27 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 11 st, inc in last st [54] Rnd 6: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 50 st, inc in next 2 st [58] Rnd 7: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 51 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in last st [62] Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 52 st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in last st [66] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times, sc in next 50 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times, inc in last st [72] Rnd 10: (sc in next 17 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [76] Rnd 11 – 21: sc in all 76 st [76]
LEGS (in off-white) We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, nd the middle back stitch of the unicorn body. If you are not already there, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 12 st, ch 8. Join the last chain and the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. The leg will be formed with 12 sc of the body and the ch-8 foundation chain. Continue working the rst back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 20 st (12 on the body and 8 on the chain) [20] Rnd 2 – 11: sc in all 20 st [20] Change to yellow yarn.
Rnd 12 – 14: sc in all 20 st [20] Rnd 15: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 16: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 5 times [10] Rnd 17: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FIRST FRONT LEG Count 10 stitches along from the rst back leg (this will be come the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 11th stitch. Sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 17: repeat rounds 1-17 of the rst back leg. SECOND FRONT LEG Count 4 stitches to the left of the rst front leg (this is the space between the legs) and attach off-white yarn to the 5th stitch. Sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 17: repeat rounds 1-17 of the rst back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 10 stitches to the left of the second front leg (this is the other side of the belly) and attach off-white yarn to the 11th stitch. Sc in next 12 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 17: repeat rounds 1-17 of the rst back leg. BELLY Between the legs you have 10 stitch spaces along the sides and 4 stitch spaces at the front and back. We make the belly by crocheting aps on these stitches. Start with the 10 stitch space along the side. Attach offwhite yarn to the rst stitch next to the rst leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 12: sc in next 10 st, ch 1, turn [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back ap, attach off-white yarn to the rst stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 5: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the ap between the front legs in the same way.
148
ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front ap to both front legs and the back ap to both back legs. Stuff each leg rmly with berll. Sew the wide belly ap to the other side of the unicorn. Then sew the belly ap to both legs and the aps between them, stufng the body as you go. Sew the head to the body.
TAIL
MANE
(in light blue) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 8: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 9 – 34: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with berll. Using a tapestry needle, close the opening of the tail. Sew the tail to the back over round 5 to 14. Curl / roll up the end of the tail and secure it with a few stitches.
(in light blue) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 5: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 7 – 34: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with berll. Using a tapestry needle, close the opening of the mane. Sew the mane to the back of the head and the neck.
149
HORN
WINGS
(in yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 12: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 13: sc in all 18 st [18] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with berll. Sew the horn in front of the mane.
(make 2, in yellow) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18] Next, we will divide the wing to make 3 feathers, using 6 stitches for eac h feather.
EARS (make 2, in off-white) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 5: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 6: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The ears do not need to be stuffed. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the head over rounds 24 to 28.
CHEEKS (make 2, in pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: inc in all 5 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head.
SMALL FEATHER Sc in next 3 st and join the last stitch to the 15th stitch of the previous round with a sc stitch. Rnd 1: sc in all 6 st [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. MEDIUM FEATHER Rejoin the yarn to the stitch to the left of the small feather, sc in next 3 st and join the last stitch to the 3th stitch to the right side of the small feather. Rnd 1 – 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. LARGE FEATHER Rejoin the yarn to the stitch to the left of the medium feather. Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 6 st [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew the wings to the body. The large feather faces up. Embroider the anchor (or another symbol you love).
150
151
Gertrude is a renowned archaeologist. She has been working in the Nordic countries and the Balkans since forever, but she doesn’t like to tell you her age. Because everyone knows that dragons can live for centuries, if you do a little research, you’ll probably nd her pictures in old medieval books. Gertrude has a soft spot for ancient Greek ceramics. I think she probably knew the people who made them. It’s not surprising that Gertrude’s hobbies are crafts involving re: glassmaking, silversmithing and, of course, ceramics.
EV EL
L L L
I K S
* *
*
Size: 12.5 inches/32 cm tall 14 inches/40 cm long when made with the indicated yarn (standing, ears included) Materials: – DK or light worsted weight yarn in · avocado green · pastel pink · slate gray · leftover of black – Size C-2 / 2.75 mm crochet hook – Black safety eyes (10 mm) – Fiberll
HEAD (in avocado green) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 7: sc in next 8 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 6 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 8 st [24] Rnd 8: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 9: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 13: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 14 – 16: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 17: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 21: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [48] Rnd 22 – 26: sc in all 48 st [48] Insert the safety eyes between rounds 21 and 22, with an interspace of about 21 stitches. Embroider the mouth using black yarn. Rnd 27: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42] Rnd 28: sc in all 42 st [42] Rnd 29: (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 6 times [36] Rnd 30: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 31: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 32: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18] Stuff the head rmly. Rnd 33: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 34: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn ends.
152
153
154
BODY (in avocado green) Start with the neck. Ch 24. Make sure your chain isn’t twisted. Insert the hook in the rst chain stitch and join the foundation chain with a slst. Continue working in a spiral. Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 4: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 8: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 9 – 13: sc in all 30 st [30] Rnd 14: ch 14. Place the stitch marker in the next stitch you’ll make, as this is going to be the beginning of each round from this point on. Crochet back on the chain, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 13 st, sc in the stitch where the foundation chain starts, continue on the neck, sc next 30 st, continue on the other side of the chain, sc in next 12 st, inc in last st [58] Rnd 15: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 54 st, inc in next 2 st [62] Rnd 16: inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 55 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times [66] Rnd 17: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 58 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times [70] Rnd 18: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 58 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [74] Rnd 19 – 28: sc in all 74 st [74]
LEGS (in avocado green) We have to divide the work to crochet the four legs. FIRST BACK LEG First, nd the middle back stitch of the dragon body. If you are not already there, continue crocheting until that point. Then, sc in next 2 st. Place a stitch marker in the next stitch. Sc in next 10 st, ch 8. Join the last chain and the stitch with the stitch marker by working a slst. The leg will be formed with 10 sc of the body and the ch-8 foundation chain.
Continue working the rst back leg: Rnd 1: sc in next 18 st (10 on the body and 8 on the chain) [18] Rnd 2 – 15: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 16: sc in next 6 st, (5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 7 st [18] Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside. Rnd 17: BLO (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12] Rnd 18: dec 6 times [6] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. FIRST FRONT LEG Count 13 stitches along from the rst back leg (this will be come the belly) and attach avocado green yarn to the 14th stitch. Sc in next 10 st, ch 8 and join the last ch and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 15: repeat rounds 1-15 of the rst back leg. Rnd 16: sc in next 9 st, (5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 4 st [18] Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside. Rnd 17 – 18: repeat rounds 17-18 of the rst back leg. SECOND FRONT LEG Count 4 stitches to the left of the rst front leg (this is the space between the legs) and attach avocado green yarn to the 5th stitch. Sc in next 10 st, ch 8 and join the last chain and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 15: repeat rounds 1-15 of the rst back leg. Rnd 16: sc in next 4 st, (5-dc-bobble st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble st, sc in next 9 st [18] Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside. Rnd 17 – 18: repeat rounds 17-18 of the rst back leg. SECOND BACK LEG Count 13 stitches along from the rst front leg (this will be come the other side of the belly) and attach avocado green yarn to the 14th stitch. Sc in next 10 st, ch 8 and join the last chain and the rst sc stitch with a slst. Rnd 1 – 15: repeat rounds 1-15 of the rst back leg. Rnd 16: sc in next 6 sc, (5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 7 [18] Make sure the bobble stitches don’t pop to the inside. Rnd 17 – 18: repeat rounds 17-18 of the rst back leg.
155
BELLY Between the legs you have 13 stitch spaces along the sides and 4 stitch spaces at the front and back. We make the belly by crocheting aps on these stitches. Start with the 13 stitch spaces along the side. Attach avocado green yarn to the rst stitch next to the rst leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 12: sc in next 13 st, ch 1, turn [13] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Rnd 35: (sc in next 9 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [33] Rnd 36 – 38: sc in all 33 st [33] Rnd 39: (sc in next 10 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [36] Rnd 40 – 42: sc in all 36 st [36] Rnd 43: (sc in next 11 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [39] Rnd 44 – 46: sc in all 39 st [39] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff with ber ll. Sew the tail to the back over rounds 14 to 27.
FLAP BETWEEN THE LEGS For the back ap, attach off-white yarn to the rst stitch next to the last leg you made. Crochet in rows. Row 1 – 5: sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [4] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Work the ap between the front legs in the same way.
EARS
ASSEMBLY OF THE BODY Using a tapestry needle, sew the front ap to both front legs and the back ap to both back legs. Stuff each leg rmly with berll. Using a tapestry needle, sew the wide belly ap to the other side of the dragon. Then sew the belly ap to both legs and the aps between them, stufng the body as you go.
(make 2, in avocado green) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 6: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [15] Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 9: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 5 times [20] Rnd 10 – 20: sc in all 20 st [20] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten and pinch the ears. Sew the ears to the head over round 26.
TAIL (in avocado green) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 9 st [9] Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [12] Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 11: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [15] Rnd 12 – 14: sc in all 15 st [15] Rnd 15: (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [18] Rnd 16 – 18: sc in all 18 st [18] Rnd 19: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [21] Rnd 20 – 22: sc in all 21 st [21] Rnd 23: (sc in next 6 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [24] Rnd 24 – 26: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 27: (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [27] Rnd 28 – 30: sc in all 27 st [27] Rnd 31: (sc in next 8 st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [30] Rnd 32 – 34: sc in all 30 st [30]
HORNS (make 2, in charcoal gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: sc in all 6 st [6] Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times [9] Rnd 4 – 12: sc in all 9 st [9] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly with berll. Sew the horns to the head, next to the ears.
WINGS (make 2, in slate gray) Rnd 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring [6] Rnd 2: inc in all 6 st [12] Rnd 3: sc in all 12 st [12] Rnd 4: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18] Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]
156
SMALL SPIKES
Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [24] Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 24 st [24] Rnd 10: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [30] Rnd 11: sc in all 30 st [30] Next, we will divide the wing to make 3 feathers, using 10 stitches for each feather.
(make 13, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The spikes do not need to be stuffed.
SMALL FEATHER Sc in next 5 st and join the last stitch to the 25th stitch of the previous round with a sc stitch. Rnd 1 – 3: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 4: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.
LARGE SPIKES (make 8, in pastel pink) Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5] Rnd 2: sc in all 5 st [5] Rnd 3: inc in all 5 st [10] Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The spikes do not need to be stuffed. Sew the large spikes to the neck, body and start of the tail. Complete by sewing the small spikes over the tip of the tail and the back of the head.
MEDIUM FEATHER Rejoin the yarn to the rst stitch to the left of the small feather, sc in next 5 st and join the last stitch to the 5th stitch to the right side of the small feather. Rnd 1 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 6: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. LARGE FEATHER Rejoin the yarn to the rst stitch to the left of the medium feather. Rnd 1 – 7: sc in all 10 st [10] Rnd 8: dec 5 times [5] Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a tapestry needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew the wings to the body. The large feather faces up.
157
158
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS To my family, for being by my side while I try to juggle this rather mad adventure of making a book. To the publishers and the proofreaders who tested and helped to improve the patterns. To my father in law, Ángel, for lending me the camera I’ve used to take all the pictures. To Luna and Maria, for letting me use their lovely space and wooden tables for my photos. To Coqui and Bosque Estudio, for listening and turning my thoughts into beautiful pages. And last but not least, to all of you, the ones who follow my ridiculous posts in social networks, read about my disappointments and complaints, my achievements and my joys. You are the ones that made it possible for me to write this second book. Thank you for allowing me to afford the luxury of having this wonderful job: imagine, design and crochet these quirky creatures. A thousand times, thank you.
159
