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Formulation
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lipstick
Formulation
Edited
by
Anne-Marie Pense-Lheritier
WILEY
Table
of Contents
xi
Preface
1
Part One: General Information
Chapter
1. Introduction
3
Andre CHEYMOL
1.1. Definition
3
1.2. Historical background
3
1.3. From art to science
8
1.4. Overview
of
the economical
impact
of
the 14
aforementioned products 1.5. Book
presentation
and
structure
16
1.6. Bibliography
Chapter
15
2. Formulation in
Major Organic Chemistry 19
Industries Andre CHEYMOL
2.1. Necessity 2.1.1.
and
concept
Specificities
of
each industry
19
20
2.2. Factors affecting different industries
26
2.3. Outlining
27
a
methodology
2.4. Bibliography
30
vi Formulation
Part Two: Concept
and
Application
31
33
Chapter 3. Solutions Anne-Marie Pense-Lheritier
33
3.1. Introduction 3.1.1. Preamble
33
3.1.2. Definition
33
3.1.3. Approach
34
3.1.4. Choice
of
35
solvents
35
3.2. Solubilizing in water 3.2.1.
35
pH control
37
3.2.2. Salts
37
3.3. Solubilizing in solvents
38
3.3.1. The dielectric constant
approach: solubility parameters
3.3.2. Theoretical
3.4. Processes to help solubilization
40
43
3.4.1. Micellar solubilization agents: surfactants
43
3.4.2. Microemulsion
45
3.4.3. Formation
of
46
complexes
48
3.4.4. Solid solutions
48
3.5. Conclusion 3.6.
49
Bibliography
Chapter
4.
53
Dispersions
Gerard HOLTZINGER
53
4.1. Introduction 4.2. Particles
and their
specificities
54
4.2.1. Definition
54
4.2.2. Size
56
of a
4.2.3. Form
particle
of
the
4.2.4. Porosity
of
58
particles
60
particles
61
4.2.5. Specific surface 4.3. Various particle systems
and
stability issues
4.3.1. Particle systems 4.3.2.
Stability of dispersions
62 62 63
4.3.3. Sedimentation
65
4.3.4. Flocculation and DVLO theory
69
4.3.5. Ostwald
4.4.
ripening
Dispersion methods and analysis techniques
86 89
Table of Contents
vii
4.4.1. Sampling
89
4.4.2. Sieving
90
4.4.3. Microscopy
91
107
4.5. Rheology
4.5.1. Definition
107
4.5.2. Viscosity measurement
109
4.5.3. Electroviscosity
and
115
electrorheology
115
4.6. Bibliography
Chapter
119
5. Formulation of Emulsions
Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER
119
5.1. General aspects of emulsions 5.2. Theoretical
considerations
on
the liquid-liquid interactions
.
.
121
the surface effects
121
5.2.2. Role of modifying agents in surface tension
122
5.2.1. Origin
5.3.
of
125
Developing the emulsion
5.3.1.
the
Selecting
126
fatty phase
127
5.3.2. Selecting the surfactant 5.4. Stabilizing
134
an emulsion
5.4.1. Creaming, sedimentation, 5.4.2. Flocculation and
DVLO
and
kinetic stabilization
theory
134 136
5.4.3. Coalescence and steric stabilization
138
5.4.4. Phase inversion
139
5.4.5. Basic rules for emulsification
139
5.5. Formulation
of
emulsions
141
5.5.1. Temperature
142
5.5.2. Time 5.5.3.
141
143
Agitation
5.5.4. Controls realized
on
emulsions
143
5.6. Conclusion
144
5.7. Bibliography
144
Chapter
6.
147
Suspensions
Gerard HOLTZ1NGER
6.1. Dispersion theory
148
6.1.1. Wettability
148
6.1.2. Adhesivity
of
particles
152
6.1.3. Friction forces
152
6.1.4. Adsorption
153
viii
Formulation
6.2. Formulation
of
155
suspensions
6.2.1. The dispersion medium
155
6.2.2. Dispersing agents
155
6.2.3. Agents that limit sedimentation
157
6.2.4. Fluidifiers
158 158
6.3. Stability agents of suspensions
159
6.3.1. Stabilization through polymers
160
polymeric dispersants of the pharmaceutical realization
6.3.2. Structure of
6.4.
Specific case 6.5. Specific case
164 164
of cosmetics
6.5.1. Mineral pigments
165
6.5.2. Organic pigments
166
6.5.3. Treating pigments
166
167
6.6. Using dispersion 6.6.1, Various
167
6.6.2.
181
6.7.
dispersion steps Monitoring dispersions
183
Bibliography
Chapter
Dispersions
7.
in
High-Viscosity Mediums: 185
Formulating Polymers Andre CHEYMOL
7.1. Characterization
of
185
polymers
7.2. Formulation of polymers: general information
concerning
7.2.1. Basic notion
the
properties ruling
198
the 200
realization of the formulation
7.2.2. Rheologic behavior: reminder
of
the first basic laws
7.2.3. Rheologic models linking viscosity 7.2.4.
and
shearing rate ....
211
7.3. Thermal behavior
211
7.3.1. Glass transition fusion
Kelvin
and
mass
capacity:
c
(in Joule
per
Kg)
213
conductivity
214
per
7.3.3. Thermal
202 208
Measuring polymer viscosity
7.3.2. Calorific
200
7.4. Heat generation
and transmission
7.5. Main mixing tools
216 218
7.5.1. Common principle
218
7.5.2. Worm drive tools
219
7.5.3. Mixing
221
7.6. Conclusion
on
7.7. Bibliography
the
polymer formulation rules
227 227
Table
Part Three: formulation
Chapter 8. Dosage Form
of
of Contents
Major Products
ix
231
and Pharmaceutical 233
Development Vincent FAIVRE 8.1.
233
Drugs development
8.1.1.
The
drug-product
233
8.1.2. Pharmaceutical development
234
8.1.3. Dosage form development
235
8.2. Case
study: development
of a
dosage form for 246
oral administration
246
8.2.1. Patients and market 8.2.2. Characteristics of active 8.2.3.
ingredients
Manufacturing processes
and choice
248
of formulation 8.3.
246
249
Monitoring/checking methods
8.3.1. Cause/effect diagram
249
8.3.2. P.A.T
250
8.3.3.
8.4.
"European pharmacopeia" validations
252
Bibliography
Chapter
250
9. Formulation of Cosmetic Products
253
Caroline ROUSSEAU
9.1. Introduction
253
9.2. Specifications
254
9.3. Development in the laboratory
256
of
257
9.3.1. Choice 9.3.2.
Realizing
the
ingredients
258
the formula
260
9.3.3. Study of the formula stability 9.3.4. Validation
of the
organisms 9.3.5. Determining
resilience
the formula with regards 261
to micro
9.3.6. Evaluation
of
the PAO
of
the formula
261
263
9.4. Industrial fabrication
265
9.5. Product launch
265
9.6. Regulations
266
9.7. Conclusion
267
x
Formulation
269
Chapter 10. Formulation of Food Products Christine CHENE
10.1. Specifications
269
10.2. Constraints
271
10.2.1.
271
Regulation
10.2.2. Fabrication
273
and conservation conditions
278
10.2.3. Cost constraints
279
10.3. Formulation methodology
Chapter
283
11. Formulation of Elastomers
Andre CHEYMOL
283
11.1. Introduction 11.2. Choice
of
284
the elastomers
11.2.1. Natural rubber
284
11.2.2. Styrene butadiene (copolymer
of
butadiene
and
styrene)
.
285
Polybutadiene (butadiene polymer) 11.2.4. Synthetic poly isoprene 11.2.5. Copolymer of acrylonitrile butadiene 11.2.6. Polychloroprene (chloroprene polymer)
286
11.2.7. Polyisobutylene (butyl rubber)
287
11.2.3.
11.2.8. Ethylene diene
286 286 287
propylene copolymers, ethylene propylene 288
copolymers
11.2.9. Silicones
289
11.2.10.
289
Polyurethanes 11.3. Adjuvants required
to obtain crucial functions
11.3.1. Reticulation and reticulation modes
11.3.2. Choice 11.3.3. Aging
of
the
and
charges
prevention products
11.3.4. Other adjuvants 11.4. Formulation realization: mixture
11.4.1. Filling factors of the machine 11.4.2.
Monitoring
the mixture
290 291
302 309
311 312 314 315
11.5. Conclusion
317
11.6. Bibliography
318
Conclusion
321
List of Authors
323
Index
325
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