Appendix: FORMULATION GUIDELINES TOILETRIES •
BATH FOAMS
BATH FOAM 1 PHASE
IN I NGREDIENT
A
Water
20.00
CESMETIC DP 2
0.30
Lactic Acid B
%
0.05
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
45.00
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
10.00
Cocamide DEA
3.00
Phenoxyethanol
0.60
Diazolidinyl Urea
0.30
Lactic Acid
0.90
Panthenol
0.20
Silk Amino Acids
1.00
Fragrance
1.00
Water
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, guar is first dispersed in water and neutralised with lactic acid (Phase A). This solution, which contains about 1.5% of guar, is then heated at 45°C for 30 min to accelerate hydration. All other ingredients (Phase B) are added sequentially under moderate stirring to avoid foam formation. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : opaque pH : 5.0 – 5.5 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 24000 mPa.s
to 100
BATH FOAM 2 PHASE
IN I NGREDIENT
A
Water
20.00
CESMETIC DP 2
0.30
Lactic Acid B
%
0.05
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
35.00
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
10.00
Coco-Glucoside
10.00
Cocamide DEA
3.00
Phenoxyethanol
0.60
Diazolidinyl Urea
0.30
Lactic Acid
0.90
Panthenol
0.20
Silk Amino Acids
1.00
Fragrance
1.00
Water
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, guar is first dispersed in water and neutralised with lactic acid (Phase A). This solution, which contains about 1.5% of guar, is then heated at 45°C for 30 min to accelerate hydration. All other ingredients (Phase B) are added sequentially under moderate stirring to avoid foam formation. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : opaque pH : 5.0 – 5.5 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 7600 mPa.s
to 100
BATH FOAM 3 PHASE
IN I NGREDIENT
A
Water
20.00
CESMETIC DP 2
0.30
Lactic Acid
0.05
B
%
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
35.00
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
10.00
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
10.00
Cocamide DEA
3.00
Phenoxyethanol
0.60
Diazolidinyl Urea
0.30
Lactic Acid
0.90
Panthenol
0.20
Silk Amino Acids
1.00
Fragrance
1.00
Water
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, guar is first dispersed in water and neutralised with lactic acid (Phase A). This solution, which contains about 1.5% of guar, is then heated at 45°C for 30 min to accelerate hydration. All other ingredients (Phase B) are added sequentially under moderate stirring to avoid foam formation. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : opaque pH : 5.0 – 5.5 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 18400 mPa.s
to 100
I
REFRESHING AND TONIC FOAM BATH (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
% 30.00
EUCAROL AGE ET
29.00
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
17.00
EUCAROL AGE SS
5.00
Glycerin
3.00
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
1.00
Lotus Corniculatus Flower Extract
1.00
Citric Acid
0.90
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance/Colour Water
q.s. to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, add to the water Sodium Lauroamphoacetate and Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and adjust pH to 6.5 – 7.0 with citric acid. Add EUCAROL AGE SS followed by EUCAROL AGE ET to increase viscosity. Add the other ingredients and mix until homogeneous. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous liquid Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 3, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 1400 mPa.s pH : 6.5 FEATURES: A well balanced composition of mild surfactants which produces a rich and long-lasting foam, enriched by the emollient and refreshing properties of Ginseng and Lotus extracts.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________ •
SHOWER CREAMS and GELS
MOISTURISING SHOWER CREAM (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (and) Stearic Acid EUCAROL AGE ET
% 25.00 10.00
STEROL CC 595 Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (and) Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein TEWAX TC1
5.00
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance
q.s.
Water
5.00 3.00
to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Heat the water to 70°C and add Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (and) Stearic Acid with TEWAX TC 1 whilst stirring. Keep at 70°C until fully dispersed; cool to 50°C, add STEROL CC 595 and EUCAROL AGE ET. Continue stirring until the temperature is lower than 40°C and add the other ingredients. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : pearly white cream pH : 5.5 FEATURES: Soft and moisturising shower cream, very mild to the ski n, with a rich, creamy foam and a pleasant silky feel.
SHOWER GEL FOR SENSITIVE SKIN (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
EUCAROL AGE ET
19.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
11.70
Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
4.70
EUCAROL AGE SS
3.10
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
2.00
STEROL LG 492 Grapefruit Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Water Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
0.70
0.30
Althea Officinalis Root Extract
0.30
Fragrance/Colour
q.s.
Water
0.50
to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Add the surfactants to water, whilst stirring, in the following order: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, EUCAROL AGE SS, EUCAROL AGE ET. Mix until homogeneous (viscosity increases upon addition of EUCAROL AGE ET). Continue stirring, add STEROL LG 492 and the other ingredients. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear liquid Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 3, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 1000 mPa.s pH : 5.5 FEATURES: Very mild and low foaming cleansing formulation that combines the excellent compatibility with the skin of Eucarol AGE ET with the dermatological properties of oat ( Avena Sativa) derivatives. For dry and sensitive skins.
II
MOISTURIZING SHOWER GEL INGREDIENT Sodium Laureth Sulfate
40.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
10.00
VISCOLAM MAC 7
9.00
Glycerin
5.00
STEROL LG 492
2.50
NaCl
0.40
S odi um H ydroxi de, 10% s ol uti on
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Add VISCOLAM MAC 7 to the formula weight of water, add Sodium Laureth Sulfate with gentle mixing. Mix until homogeneous, adjust pH to approx. 6.5 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution. Vscosity increases and the gel becomes clear. Add in sequence NaCl and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Continue stirring and add the other ingredients.
%
CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous gel Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 6000 - 8000 mPa.s pH : around 6.5
q.s. to pH 6.5
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance/Colour
q.s.
Water
to 100
VERY MILD SHOWER GEL (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Add VISCOLAM MAC 7 to the formula weight of water, adjust pH to approx. 5.5 - 6.0 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution. Add EUCAROL AGE EC with gentle mixing. Mix until homogeneous; adjust pH to approx. 6.5 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution, the viscosity furtherly increases and the gel becomes clear. Pre-mix fragrance with SORBILENE LH and mix with the other ingredients.
%
EUCAROL AGE EC
28.00
VISCOLAM MAC 7
10.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
4.70
Sorbitol
3.50
S odi um H ydroxi de, 10% s ol uti on
q.s. to pH 6.5
Preservative Water
q.s.
CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous gel Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 5, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 9000 - 11000 mPa.s
to 100
SORBILENE LH
1.00
Fragrance
0.40
pH : 6.5
_____________________________________________________________________________________________ •
LIQUID SOAPS
LIQUID SOAP PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water CESMETIC DP 2 Lactic Acid
B
Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cocamide DEA Cocamidopropyl Betaine
% 10.00 0.30 0.05 48.00 2.00 12.00
Isopropyl Palmitate
0.50
Trideceth-7 Water, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Urea, Sorbitol, PCA, L-Lisine, Allantoin, Diglycerine, Lactic Acid, Sodium PCA Fragrance
2.00
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer Water
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, guar is first dispersed in water and neutralised with lactic acid (Phase A). This solution, which contains about 3.0% of guar, is then heated at 45°C for 30 min to accelerate hydration. All other ingredients (Phase B) are added sequentially under moderate stirring to avoid foam formation. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : opaque pH : 5.0 – 5.5 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 17700 mPa.s
1.00 0.80 1.00 to 100
III
FOAMING DETERGENT PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
0.30
Preservative
0.20
PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether
0.10
Fragrance Cocamide DEA
C
to 100
ESAFLOR HC 56
Sodium Laureth Sulfate B
%
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
45.00 1.00
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Disperse the polymer into preservative-containing water, add PPG20 Methyl Glucose Ether and surfactants under stirring. Add Phase B and C under stirring. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : viscous lightly opalescent solution pH : 6.5 – 7.0 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 12000 mPa.s
3.00 14.00
FEATURES: Mild bath foam with a very high foaming performance.
MILD FACE/HAND CLEANSER (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
EUCAROL AGE ET
17.50
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
11.70
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
4.20
Glycerin Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
5.00 2.50
STEROL LG 492
0.50
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% solution
0.60 q.s. to pH 6.5
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance/Colour
q.s.
Water
to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, add surfactants to water in the following order: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, EUCAROL AGE ET. Mix until homogeneous (viscosity increases upon addition of EUCAROL AGE ET). Continue stirring and add the other ingredients. Adjust pH to about 6.5 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution (a further increase of viscosity occurs). CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous liquid Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, s pindle 3, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 1500 mPa.s pH : 6.5 FEATURES: Very mild formulation which produces a creamy foam, easy to rinse off, and which leaves a pleasant soft feel on the skin.
MILD FACIAL CLEANSING GEL (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
EUCAROL AGE ET
14.30
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
6.20
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
6.20
Glycerin
5.00
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
2.50
STEROL CC 595
1.00
Xanthan Gum Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
0.50
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
0.30
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% solution
q.s. to pH 7.0
0.50 0.30
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance/Colour
q.s.
Water
to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, disperse Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Xanthan Gum in the formula weight of water. Allow the polymers to swell using slow agitation. Add surfactants, while stirring, in the following order: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, EUCAROL AGE ET. Adjust pH to 6.5 – 7.0 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution (viscosity increases and the gel becomes clear). Add the other ingredients and mix until homogeneous. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear gel Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 3, 2.5 rpm, 25°C) : 20000 mPa.s pH : 6.8 FEATURES: The excellent detergent power and the great mildness of the surfactant system make this formulation an ideal make-up remover, which leaves a pleasant emollient feeling on the skin. The two plants extracts enrich the formula with their purifying and refreshing properties.
IV
CLEAR FACIAL CLEANSING GEL (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
12.30
VISCOLAM MAC 7
10.00
EUCAROL AGE ET
8.20
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
5.10
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
2.00
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% solution Preservative Fragrance/Colour Water
q.s. to pH 6.5 q.s. q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Add VISCOLAM MAC 7 to the formula weight of water, add in sequence Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and EUCAROL AGE ET with gentle mixing (a gel is obtained). Mix until homogeneous, adjust pH to approx. 6.5 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution (the gel becomes clear). Continue stirring, add Cocamidopropyl Betaine and the other ingredients. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous gel Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 4500 - 6500 mPa.s pH : 6.5
to 100
______________________________________________________________________________________________ •
PERSONAL HYGIENE
INTIMATE CLEANSER (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
EUCAROL AGE ET
16.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
10.70
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
1.00
Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
1.00
Lactic Acid
0.70
Preservative Essential Oils (Mentha and Eucalyptus) Water
q.s. q.s. to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Under continuous stirring, add surfactants to water in the following order: EUCAROL AGE ET, Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Mix until homogeneous. Adjust pH to about 3.5 – 4.0 with Lactic Acid. Continue stirring and add the other ingredients. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear liquid Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 3, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 500 mPa.s pH : 3.8 FEATURES: The great mildness of the surfactant system and the low pH make this formulation an ideal feminine intimate cleanser, which gives a pleasant and refreshing effect, while not affecting the mucosae natural defence.
V
SKIN CARE •
BODY
BODY LOTION PHASE A
INGREDIENT Steareth-2 (and) PEG-8 Distearate [Arlatone 985 ] Steareth-21 Isohexadecane Sesame Oil
B
% 4.00 2.00 10.00 6.00
BHT
0.05
Propylparaben
0.15
Sorbeth-30
1.25
Propylene Glycol
5.00
Methylparaben
0.20
ESAFLOR HC 56 Water
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Disperse ESAFLOR HC 56 into Phase B. Separately heat Phase A and Phase B to 70-75°C. Add Phase A to Phase B while homogenising and cool to room temperature under stirring. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : soft cream pH : 5.2 – 5.8 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 6000 mPa.s FEATURES: Soft cream, easily absorbed by the skin, which gives a nice silky touch.
0.50 to 100
MASSAGE CREAM PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
4.00
Cetyl Alcohol
1.00
Stearic Acid
2.00
Mineral Oil
15.00
Petrolatum
5.00
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
4.00
B
%
BHT
0.05
Propylparaben
0.15
Propylene Glycol
5.00
Water
to 100
Methylparaben
0.20
ESAFLOR HC 56
0.50
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% Solution
q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Separately, heat Phase A and Phase B to 75°C. Add Phase A to Phase B while homogenising, cool to room temperature under stirring and adjust the pH with 10% sodium hydroxide solution. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : white cream pH : 5.5 – 6.5 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 112000 mPa.s FEATURES: ESAFLOR HC 56 imparts to the cream a very good spreadability and absorbability by the skin, leaving a silky and dry effect.
________________________________________________________________________________________________ •
FACE
MILK DETERGENT PHASE A
INGREDIENT Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-30 Stearate [Arlatone 983 S ] Steareth-10
2.50
Mineral Oil
24.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
B
% 2.50
7.00
Cetyl Alcohol
1.00
BHT
0.05
Propylparaben
0.15
Propylene Glycol
5.00
PEG-8
4.00
Water
53.10
Methylparaben
0.20
ESAFLOR HC 56
0.50
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% solution
q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Mix separately Phase A and Phase B heating to 75°C. Add Phase A to Phase B while homogenising and cool to room temperature under stirring. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : creamy fluid pH : 5.0 – 5.5 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 12000 mPa.s FEATURES: Fluid milk with a high make-up removing efficacy, which leaves a soft touch on the skin without an oily or tacky effect.
VI
SMOOTH CLEANSING MILK PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B
% to 100
Glycerin
3.50
EUCAROL AGE ET
3.30
Xanthan Gum
0.20
EDTA
0.10
STEROL GS
5.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
5.00
Mineral Oil
5.00
Glyceryl Monostearate
2.00
Cetearyl Alchol
2.00
C
Dimethicone
1.00
D
Alpha-Bisabolol
1.00
Althea Officinalis Root Extract
1.00
Allantoin
0.30
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% solution
0.20
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance
q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Disperse xanthan gum in the formula weight of water to reach complete hydration and add all other ingredients of Phase A. Heat separately Phase A and Phase B to about 65 - 70°C, add Phase B to Phase A homogenising for few minutes. Cool the emulsion to 50°C and add Dimethicone. Cool to 40°C and add Phase D under stirring. Finally restore the water lost to evaporation (about 3% of total weight). CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : white viscous cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 3, 5 rpm, 25°C): 6000 mPa.s pH : 6.0 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: Very mild formulation with a great moisturising and emollient power due to the peculiarity of the active ingredients.
CLEANSING MILK FOR SENSITIVE SKIN PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water Glycerin
B
C D
% to 100 3.50
EUCAROL AGE ET
3.30
Xanthan Gum
0.20
EDTA
0.10
STEROL EPA
5.00
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
5.00
Mineral Oil
5.00
Glyceryl Monostearate
2.00
Cetearyl Alcohol
2.00
Dimethicone Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (and) Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Lauryl PCA
1.00
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% solution
0.20
2.00 1.00
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance
q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Disperse xanthan gum in the formula weight of water to reach complete hydration and add all other ingredients of Phase A. Heat separately Phase A and Phase B to about 65 - 70°C, add Phase B to Phase A homogenising for few minutes. Cool the emulsion to 50°C and add Dimethicone. Cool to 40°C and add Phase D under stirring. Finally restore the water lost to evaporation (about 3% of total weight). CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : white fluid cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 3, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 4600 mPa.s pH : 6.2 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: Very mild formulation, enriched with oat ( Avena sativa) derivatives and Lauryl PCA which give an emollient effect. Particularly indicated for dry and sensitive skins.
EMOLLIENT AND SOOTHING MAKE-UP REMOVER PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B
% to 100
Glycerin
3.00
VISCOLAM AT 64 P
2.00
Polyquaternium-15
0.15
Allantoin
0.10
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
0.02
Hydrogenated Polydecene Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum parkii extract [Fancol VB] Calendula officinalis Flower Extract
10.00 8.00 1.00
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
1.00
C
Phenoxyethanol
0.70
D
Fragrance
0.15
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Mix the ingredients of Phase A in the suggested sequence and homogenise using a high shear turbo emulsifier. Mix Phase B and add to Phase A while stirring. Add the remaining phases, homogenising after each addition. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : bright white cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 40000 mPa.s pH : around 7.0 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: Formulation with good make-up removing power, which leaves a soft and fresh touch on the skin.
VII
VISCOUS FACIAL FRESHENER for DRY SKIN PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B C
% to 100
Euphrasia Officinalis Distilled Water
5.00
Glycerin Punica Granatum (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Water VISCOLAM AT 64 P
2.00 1.50
Diazolidinyl Urea
0.25
Persea Gratissima Oil
1.90
Alpha-Bisabolol
0.10
Fragrance
q.s.
1.00
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Mix Phase A and homogenise using a high s hear turbo emulsifier. Mix Phase B and add to Phase A homogenising. Add Phase C and homogenise. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : yellowish cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 13000 mPa.s pH : around 6.5 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: Formulation with good spreadability, high consistency and a longlasting effect that help the absorption of the active ingredients.
VIII
HAIR CARE •
SHAMPOOS
CONDITIONING SHAMPOO (SLS/SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
EUCAROL AGE ET
15.40
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
16.40
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
5.80
Sorbitol Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PEG-150 Distearate
2.00
1.50
STEROL LG 492
1.00
Citric Acid
0.70
Preservative
q.s.
Fragrance/Colour Water
2.00
q.s. to 100
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Heat the water to about 70 - 80 °C and add Sodium Lauroamphoacetate with Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate under stirring. Adjust pH to 6.5 - 7.0 with citric acid. Keep at 70 - 80 °C and add in sequence EUCAROL AGE ET, STER OL CC 595 and PEG-150 Distearate, which rapidly melts at that temperature. Gradually cool to 40°C and restore the evaporated water. Add the other ingredients and mix until homogeneous. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous liquid Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, s pindle 3, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 2100 mPa.s pH : 6.3 FEATURES: A very mild surfactant system which provi des a soft touch on the hair and a good conditioning effect in combination with quaternary wheat derivatives.
ANTI-GREASE SHAMPOO (SLS-SLES free)
INGREDIENT
%
EUCAROL AGE EC
13.30
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
13.30
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
13.30
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Grapefruit Extract and Glycerin (and) Water Salvia Officinalis Leaf extract Citric Acid
2.00 0.50 0.20 q.s. to pH 5.2
Fragrance/Colour Water
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Add surfactants to water whilst stirring in the following order: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, EUCAROL AGE EC. Mix to homogenate it. Continue stirring, add Hydrolyzed Oat Protein and the other ingredients. Adjust pH to approx. 5.2 with citric acid (viscosity increases). CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : clear viscous liquid Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, s pindle 3, 20 rpm, 25°C) : 3700 mPa.s pH : 5.2
q.s. to 100
FEATURES: This formulation combines the excellent compatibility with the skin and the good degreasing effect of Eucarol AGE EC with the dermatological properties of oat ( Avena sativa) derivatives.
____________________________________________________________________________________________ •
CONDITIONERS
BALSAM PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Steareth-21
1.50
Steareth-2
0.50
Cetyl Alcohol
4.00
Wheat Germ Oil
1.00
B
C
Octyldodecanol
4.00
Propylparaben
0.15
Water
37.70
ESAFLOR HC 56
0.65
Methylparaben
0.20
Hydroxyethylcellulose Water
D
%
Lactic Acid, 25% solution
0.30
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Separately, heat Phase A and Phase B to 70-75°C. Add Phase A to Phase B under stirring, cool down to 50°C and add Phase C. Cool to room temperature and adjust pH by adding Phase D. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : fluid cream pH : 4.8 – 5.4 Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 24000 mPa.s FEATURES: Balsam easy to rinse off, which leaves well conditioned and soft hair.
50.00 q.s.
IX
SUN CARE SUNSCREEN CREAM - 1 PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B
% to 100
VISCOLAM AT 64 P Titanium Dioxide (and) Decamethyl Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) Methicone [Kobo CM3K40T4] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
2.00 15.00
Benzophenone-3
3.00
8.00
C
Preservative
q.s.
D
Fragrance
q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Homogenise Phase A using a high shear turbo emulsifier. Mix Phase B and homogenise. Add Phase B to Phase A while stirring. Add the remaining phases, homogenising after each addition. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : light yellowish cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 119000 mPa.s pH : 7.0 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: This formulation has a silky touch and is very easily absorbed. It is light, moisturising and not sticky even with the presence of pigments and oils.
SUNSCREEN CREAM - 2 PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Silica (and) Sodium Polyacrylate [Tioveil AQ-N ] VISCOLAM AT 64 P
to 100
STEROL B 125
17.00
B
%
15.00 2.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
8.00
Benzophenone-3
3.00
C
Preservative
q.s.
D
Fragrance
q.s.
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Homogenise Phase A using a high shear turbo emulsifier. Mix Phase B and homogenise. Add Phase B to Phase A while stirring. Add the remaining phases, homogenising after each addition. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : light yellowish cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 81000 mPa.s pH : around 7.0 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: This formulation has a light touch and is not sticky. The presence of pigments and oils does not affect the prompt absorption of the cream.
X
COLOUR COSMETICS FOUNDATION PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B
C D
% to 100
Glycerin
3.00
VISCOLAM AT 64 P
1.00
EDTA
0.10
Hydrogenated Polydecene
15.00
Titanium Dioxide, CI 77891
8.00
Sweet Almond Oil
5.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
4.00
Steareth-21
3.00
Steareth-2
2.00
Iron Oxide, CI 77492
1.00
Iron Oxide, CI 77491-CI 77492-CI 77499 Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben [Germaben II ] Fragrance
1.00
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Homogenise Phase A using a high shear turbo emulsifier and heat to 70°C. Mix Phase B and heat to 70 – 75°C. Homogenise Phase B and add to Phase A while stirring. Cool down to 40°C and add the remaining phases, homogenising after each addition. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : brown cream Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 110000 mPa.s pH : around 6.5 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: This formulation has a silky touch. It is light, moisturising and not sticky even with the presence of pigments and oils.
1.00 q.s.
JELLY EYE SHADOW with PEARLESCENT AGENTS PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B
C
% to 100
Glycerin
7.50
Polymethylmethacrylate
3.00
VISCOLAM AT 64 P
3.00
Panthenol
0.75
EDTA
0.15
Cyclopentasiloxane Cyclopentasiloxane Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer [Si Tec RE 100 ] Mica, CI 77891
4.50 4.50 30.00
MANUFACTURING PROCEDURE: Homogenise Phase A using a high shear turbo emulsifier. Mix Phase B and add to Phase A while stirring. Add Phase C and homogenise. CHARACTERISTICS: Appearance : pearlescent white gel Viscosity (RVT Brookfield, spindle 4, 5 rpm, 25°C) : 195000 mPa.s pH : around 7.0 Stability (6000 rpm, 30 min, 25°C) : no phase separation FEATURES: This formulation belongs to a new generation of long-lasting eye shadow: It is easy to apply and quick to dry.
XI
