P A R T V. V.
T O I LE L E T P R E P A R AT A T I O NS NS A N D P E R F U ME ME S .
The formulae for preparations which are used for the Toilet and Perfumes would of themselves fill a large volume. In this work, th erefore, erefore, a few only only of of those most most import import an t an d m ost likely likely to be be us ed by druggists and pharmacists can be given, and our readers are referred to the more elaborate works on this subject for further info inform at ion ion if desired. desired. BANDOLINE.
Bandoline is intended to be used as a fixer for the hair and for other similar uses. Several different kinds may be made, as shown in the follo following wing for for mu las . 4 1 7 5 . R o s e B a n d o l i n e .—Best Flake Tragacanth 1 ounce av., Rose Water 13 fl.ounces, Cologne Spirit 3 fl.ounces. Mix the Rose Water and Colo Co logne gne Spirit Spirit a nd m acera acera te t he Tr agacan agacan th in th e mixtu mixtu re for for several several days, stirring frequently, then squeeze through a coarse muslin str ainer, let let st an d two or t hr ee days days an d again squeeze squeeze thr ough mu slin. slin.
This ma kes a wh ite tr an slucent slucent prepa ra tion; tion; if if desired it ma y be be co colored lored pink or r ed with s olut ion ion of car min e. 4 17 17 6. 6 . Q u i n c e B a n d o l i n e .— Quin ce seed coar coar sely powder powder ed or br uised 1 / 2 oun ce. Ora nge F lower lower Wat er 13 fl.o fl.oun un ces, Colo Cologne gne Sp irit 3 fl.o fl.oun un ces. Make in th e same m an ner as t he preceding preceding.. In eith eith er of th ese fo form ulas. Distilled Water may be used instead of Rose or Orange Flower Water and 1 ounce of any kind of bulk perfume added in place of 1 ounce of the Cologne Spirit directed. By using hot Water the operation may be greatly ha stened. Fen ner’s ner’s Complete Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 1 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 1 7 7 . B a n d o l i n e P o w d e r .—The best Bandoline Powder is prepared fr om Qu ince Seeds, alt hough it is n ot so lig light ht color lor ed, an d does not yield so mu ch liquid liquid as t ha t pr epared from from Tragacanth .
The following formulas may be used: Quince seed, in fine powder, 4 oun ces, Bulk P erfume (Upper Ten or oth er) 2 fl. fl.dra dra chm s. Mix Mix th em well togeth togeth er. This is is put u p in in packages of of about 1 drachm, which which will will ma ke 3 or or 4 oun oun ces of of Ban Ban doli doline ne wh en a dded to Water . Tragacanth, in fine powder, 4 ounces. Acacia, in fine powder, 1 ounce, Bulk P erfumes 2 fl.dra l.dra chm s. Mix Mix an d u se a s t he foregoing. regoing. Powdered perfumed soap also makes a good Bandoline Powder, a few grain s only should be mixed mixed with a few drops of of Wat Wat er wh en wa nt ed fo for use. C O S M E T I C S F O R T H E C O M P L E XI XI O N .
In a general sense the term Cosmetic may be applied to preparations which are used to soften, cleanse, purify or beautify the complexion, ha ir, teeth , etc., etc., but in th is co conn ectio ection, n, th e prepa ra tions tions only whic which h a re applied to "beautifying" the complexion will be noted. The preparations containing insoluble substances are best made by grinding them through a paint mill, but very good preparations may be made by ru bbing bbing th em fine fine in in a mort mort ar as directed directed in t he form form ulae. L iq i q u i d C o sm s m e t i cs cs .
These are mostly preparations containing some insoluble ingredients which are intended to beautify the complexion, making the skin white or of a flesh t int , an d coverin coverin g ta n, freckles, etc. 4 17 1 7 8. 8 . O r i e n t a l C r e a m .—Calo .—Calomel mel 2 ounces a v., v., Sub-Nitr at e of of Bism Bism ut h 1 ounce av., Carbonate of Barium, or Oxide of Zinc,1i ounce av.. Water a sufficient quantity. Rub the powders in a mortar with successive portions of Water, allowing the precipitate to settle, and pouring off the Water several times to wash out the impurities and make a smooth preparation; finally, pour the precipitate into a pint bottle and add enough enough distilled distilled or or filtered filtered r ain wa ter to make a pint. This prepar at ion ion is Fen ner’s ner’s Complete Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 2 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
similar and equal to the celebrated "Oriental Cream." It is only necessa necessa ry th at goo good ma ter ial should should be used in in m ak ing it. it. It m ay also be made with four ounces of Calomel in 1 pint of water, in the same manner. 4 1 7 9 . L i q u i d E n a m e l , o r P e a r l .—Oxide .—Oxide of Zin Zin c, Fr en ch, 2 ou ou n ces a v., Prepared Chalk 2 ounces av., Calomel 1 ounce av., Essence Rose or Almonds 1 fl.ounce. Glycerin 1 fl.ounce, Water, a sufficient quantity. Rub the powders with successive portions of Water to wash out any impurities and reduce them to a smooth and uniform precipitate, and finally pour the precipitate in a pint bottle, add the Essence of Rose or Almond lmond a nd en ough distilled distilled or or filter filter ed ra in Water to mak e a pint . 4 18 1 8 0. 0 . C r e a m o f R o s e s .— Car bona bona te of Bar ium 2 oun oun ces a v.. v.. Pr epar ed Cha lk 2 oun oun ces a v.. v.. Carm ine, No. No. 40, 40, 10 gra gra ins. Car bona bona te of Potas sium 5 gra ins, Glyc Glycer in 1 fl.o fl.oun un ce. Rose Rose Wat er, su ffic ficient to ma ke a pint . Rub th e Carm ine and Ca rbona rbona te of of Pota Pota ssium together together an d add Rose Rose Water grad ua lly lly unt il it is dissolv dissolved. ed. Mix Mix th e Car bona bona te of Bar ium a nd Ch alk, an d ha ving ving wash ed th em by ru bbing bbing with su ccessive essive port port ions ions of Water , put the precipitate in a pint bottle, add the Glycerin, the dissolved Carm ine and enough enough Rose Rose Wat Wat er t o ma ke a pint. 4 1 8 1 . C r e a m o f L i l i e s , o r B l o o m o f Y o u t h .— Heavy Magnesia ( Magnesia Ponderosa) 1 1 / 2 ounces av., Oxide of Zinc 2 ounces av., Glycerin 1 fl.ounce, Water, sufficient to make a pint. Rub the Magnesia and the Zinc with successive portions of water to wash them, transfer the precipitate to a pint bottle, and add the Glycerin and enough Water to mak e a pint . A litt litt le perfum perfum e ma y be add ed if desired. 4 1 8 2 . L i q u i d R o u g e , o r B l o o m o f R o s e s .—This is used for giving a flesh t int or r ed colo colorr ing t o th e comp comp lexio lexion, a lso for for ad ding t o a ny of th e foregoing white preparations to impart a flesh tint. It is frequently put up in small bottles and furnished in a package with the white Cosmetique. It is made as follows: Carmine, No. 40, 120 grains, Car bona bona te of Pota Pota ssium (Salts of Tart ar ) 60 gra gra ins, Glyc Glycerin 4 fl.o fl.oun un ces, Aqua Ammonia 1 / 2 fl.ounce, Orange Flower Water 12 fl.ounces. Rub the Carmine and the Carbonate of Potassium to a fine powder, add the Glyc Glycerin, erin, ru b th em t ogeth geth er, th en a dd th e Ammonia Ammonia a nd Or an ge Flower Flower Water. A small quantity of this liquid is applied to the cheek with a sponge sponge or or s oft cloth cloth an d t horoughly horoughly ru bbed in. in. For m ak ing a flesh flesh t int of Fen ner’s ner’s Complete Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 3 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
th e white prepa ra tions, add from 1 to 11 / 2 fl.dra chm s to a pint . Vinegar Rouge. True Vinegar Rouge is prepared from pure Rouge,
Carthamine (from safflower) by dissolving it in Alcohol and acidulating with Acetic Acid. An imita tion m ay be ma de by a dding Acetic Acid t o a solut ion of Sca r let Aniline. Cream s, etc. For S oftenin g the S kin , Etc.
These are designed for softening the skin and removing tan, sunburn, freckles, cha p, etc. Severa l differen t kinds of prepar at ions ar e pu t up for such us es, and t he following form ulas ar e repr esent at ive of prepa ra tions foun d in t he ma rket : 4 1 8 3 . C a m p h o r C r e a m .— Quince Seed, in coarse powder, 60 grains, Hot Water 14 fl.ounces, Borax, powdered, 60 grains. Glycerin 2 fl.oun ces, Spirit of Cam ph or 1 fl.oun ce. Oil of Bit ter Almonds 10 m inims . Macerate the Quince Seeds for half a day with the Water and strain. Mix with th e Glycerin . Dissolve th e Oil of Bitt er Almonds in t he Sp irit of Camphor and gradually add to it the Mucilage of Quince, etc., and mix them thoroughly. 4 1 8 4 . F r a g r a n t C r e a m .—Quince Seed 120 grains. Borax, in powder, 60 grains, Hot Water 12 fl.ounces, Glycerin 3 fl.ounces, Cologne 2 fl.ounces. Crush the Quince Seed and macerate with the Hot Water for one hour, stirring frequently, then strain through muslin, without pressure, add the Glycerin and Borax, and then add the translucent solution to the Cologne slowly, shaking them well together. One ounce of Bulk Perfume and 1 ounce of Cologne Spirit may be used instead of the Cologne. This is used for softening the skin, chap, etc. By using double th e qua nt ity of Quince Seed a pr epar at ion sim ilar to "Fr ostilla " ma y be made. 4 1 8 5 . M a r s h m a l l o w C r e a m .—Tragacanth, in powder 1 / 4 ounce av., Marshmallow Root, cut, 1 / 2 ounce av., Water 12 fl.ounces. Glycerin 3 fl.oun ces, Cologne 2 fl.oun ces. Mix th e Glycer in with th e Wat er, a dd t he Tragacanth and Mallow to the mixture and agitate frequently for several days, then strain through a muslin strainer, add the Cologne, Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 4 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
let st an d two or t hr ee days and st ra in again. 4 1 8 6 . S a v o n i a C r e a m .—White Castile Soap 1 ounce, Tragacanth 1 / 4 ou n ce. Wat er 8 fl.ou n ces, Glycer in 6 fl.ou n ces, Cologne 2 fl.ou n ces. Mak e in the same ma nn er as th e preceding. 4 1 8 7 . B l a n d i n e .—Take of Albumen (white of egg) 6 ounces, Glycerin 10 ounces. Oil Bitter Almonds 10 drops. Mix the Albumen with the Glycerin, and add the flavor; pass several times through a muslin strainer to mix well and remove any "lumps." This is a fine liquid preparation for the skin. As the Glycerin is absorbed, a thin coating of Albumen is left on t he su r face, which pr otects it from th e air . 4 1 8 8 . A m a n d i n e .—This is a prepa ra tion int ended to whiten an d soften the skin and prevent chaping, etc. Honey, strained, 2 ounces, White Soft Soap (2908) 1 ounce, Liquor Potassa, 1 fl.drachm, Oil of Sweet Almond s 28 oun ces. Oil of Ber gam ot 1 1 / 2 dr achm , Oil of Bitt er Almond s
1 1 / 2 dr achm, Oil of Cloves 40 minims. Balsam P eru 40 minims. Rub t he honey with th e Soft Soap in a mort ar add t he Liquor Potassa, a nd when thoroughly mixed gradually add the Almond Oil, with which the other oils have been previously mixed, stirring them thoroughly to form an emulsion. 4 1 8 9 . S h a v i n g C r e a m .—White Wax, Sper ma ceti, Almond Oil, each 1 / 2 ounce. Shaving Soap, William's 2 small cakes. Rose Water 2 ounces. Melt the Soap with the Rose Water in a wide mouth bottle. Melt the Wax Sperma ceti an d Almond Oil together an d add t o th e war m solut ion of Soap , beat ing th em a ll well together int o a crea m u nt il cool.
Another formula is, William's Soap 8 ounces. Almond Oil, Cologne and Glycerine ea ch 1 oun ce, Water 8 oun ces, ma de in t he sa me ma nn er. 4 1 9 0 . S h a v i n g C r e a m f o r M e t a l T u b e s .—Lard 16 ounces. Spermaceti 1 ounce. Caustic Potassa 2 ounces. Alcohol 1 / 2 ounce. Oil Bitter Almond 20 minims. Water 16 ounces. Melt the Lard and Spermaceti together on a sand-bath. Dissolve the Caustic Potassa in half the Water and gradually add the solution to the melted Lard, etc., with gent le st irr ing. Dissolve th e Oil of Almond in th e Alcohol, mix with th e Water an d while th e Soap is cooling m ix it th oroughly. This m ay be Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 5 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
ru n into metal tu bes while warm. F a c e a n d T o ile t P o w d e r s , e t c .
A great variety of Toilet and Face powders are found on the market, some in t he form of powder an d some in t he for m of balls or solid blocks or t ablets. The following form ula s repr esent th e most desira ble kinds. 4 1 9 1 . F a c e P o w d e r —(white).—Oxide of Zinc, English, Hubbuck's 6 ounces. Precipitated Chalk, English 6 ounces, Rice Flour, Bolted 16 ounces, French Chalk, very fine powder, 4 ounces, Orris Root, in very fine powder, 4 oun ces. Oil of San t al 60 m inims , Oil of Cloves 20 m inims . The Orris Root must be reduced to an impalpable powder, and thoroughly mixed with the other powders, the Oils are then to be rubbed with a portion of the powder, and the remaining powder gradually added and thoroughly mixed. The chief trouble usually experienced with F ace Powders is to redu ce th em t o th e proper fineness. This is especially the case when Orris Root is used, as it is a very refra ctory su bsta nce to reduce to an impalpa ble powder. To obviat e th is difficulty, th e E xtra ct of Orr is (934), such a s is u sed in per fum ery, ma y be used in place of the powdered root. It may be gradually mixed by rubbing it with the powder, and the Alcohol evaporated off by exposing for a few hours in the open air to gentle heat. This should be done before a dding th e Essen tia l Oils. Flesh . The Flesh-tint ed Powders ma y be prepar ed from th is or a ny oth er
white powders, by first rubbing a little Carmine to an impalpable powder, mixing it with a portion of the powder, and then gradually incorpora ting m ore of th e powder u nt il th e desired sha de is obta ined. It requ ires considera ble car e to incorpora te t he Ca rm ine so th at it will not be " str eaked," an d it m ay th erefore be a dvisable to add it in th e form of a solution, first, with a portion of the powder, and then with enough gradu ally added to ma ke t he desired color. 4 1 9 2 . S w a n - D o w n F a c e P o w d e r .—Oxide of Zinc, Hubbuck's, 4 ounces, Orris Root, in very fine powder , 1 1 / 2 , ounce, French Chalk 4 1 / 2 oun ces. Mix th em t horoughly, per fum e if desired. 4193 . P e e r l e ss F a c e P o w d e r .—Fr ench Cha lk 21 / 2 oun ces. Corn Sta rch 3 ounces, Oxide of Bismu th 1 / 2 ounce, Precipitated Chalk 4 ounces. Mix Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 6 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
them. 4 1 9 4 . B l o o m o f N i n o n F a c e P o w d e r .—Pr ecipita ted Cha lk 4 oun ces, Sub-Carbonate of Bismuth 1 ounce, Oxide of Zinc, Hubbuck's, 2 1 / 2 ounces, Corn Starch 4 ounces. Mix them thoroughly and perfume with Essence of Orris and Rose. This is known also as Saunder's Face Powder. 4 1 9 5 . I n v i s i b l e F a c e P o w d e r .— French Chalk 4 ounces, Calcined Magnesia 1 ounce, Precipitated Chalk 2 ounces, Subcarbonate of Bismu th 1 oun ce, Car mine 30 grains. Mix them . 4 1 9 6 . C o m p l e x i o n P o w d e r .—French Chalk 4 1 / 2 oun ces, P recipitat ed Cha lk 3 ounces, Oxychloride of Bismu th 1 oun ce. Mix th em. 4 19 7 . L i l y Wh i t e T a b l e t .— The Lily White t ablets a nd solid cakes a nd balls that are found in the market consist mainly of Prepared or Pr ecipita ted Cha lk 4 part s, French Cha lk 5 part s, ground together in a mill with water sufficient to make a th ick pa ste, an d ru n int o th e desired for m or cut, or form ed while still moist in to th e requ ired sh ap e. 4 1 9 8 . R o s e o r V i o l e t T o i l e t P o w d e r .— The ordinary Toilet or Baby Powder which is used as a drier or dusting after washing, and by barbers after shaving, may be made with Wheat Starch or Arrow Root, in fine powder, 1 pound. Oxide of Zinc or Oxide of Bismuth 4 ounces. Orr is Root , in very fine p owder , 2 1 / 2 oun ces. This ma y be perfum ed with Essence of Rose for Rose Powder, or with Essence of Orris for Violet Powder. DENTIFRICES.
Dentifrices or cosmetics for the teeth are found in the market in the for ms of Tooth Powders, Tablets, Pa st es, Was hes a nd liquid sap ona ceous compounds. They are mostly to be used on a brush, and are put up in various ways to make them attractive and convenient for use. The following form ulae repr esent s t he differen t kinds of prepar at ions which are in use :
Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 7 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
T o ot h Wa s h e s a n d C o s m e t i c s . 4199 . B a l m o f a T h o u s a n d F l o w e r s .—This is a liquid d ent ifrice, also used for softening the skin, shaving, etc. It may be made as follows: White Cas tile Soap 2 oun ces, Honey 4 oun ces, Wat er 12 ounces. Alcohol 4 ounces, Oil of Rose 3 drops, Oil of Wintergreen 10 drops. Oil of Cinna mon 5 dr ops, Extr act of Van illa 1 / 2 oun ce. Dissolve th e soa p in t he
wat er by th e aid of hea t, a dd t he H oney; dissolve th e Oils in t he Alcohol an d mix with th e solut ion of Soap , etc. After st an ding, filter. 4 2 0 0 . O r i e n t a l T o o t h W a s h .—Soap Bark (Quillaya) 4 ounces, Orris Root 2 ounces. Tannin 30 grains, Cloves 60 grains. Oil Wintergreen 2 drachms, Cologne Spirit enough to make 20 ounces. Grind the drugs to a coar se powder an d m acerat e for seven days in 1 pint of Cologne Spirit; pour off the liquid and put the drugs in a percolator; pour the liquid upon the drugs and percolate, adding Cologne Spirit in the percolator until 20 ounces of percolate are obtained. Dissolve the Oil of Wint ergreen in t he per colate, an d filter, if necessa ry. 4 2 0 1 . S a p o n a c e o u s T o o t h W a s h .—White Castile Soap 1 ounce. Oil Cloves, Oil Cinnamon each 10 minims. Oil Wintergreen 15 minims. Oil Pepper min t 20 min ims. Hot Wa ter 4 oun ces. Alcohol or Cologne Spir it 10 oun ces, Glycerin 2 oun ces. Cut th e Soap in t hin sh avings, an d dissolve in the Hot Water; dissolve the Oils in the Alcohol, add the Solution of Soap and Glycerin, and color with Cochineal or Caramel, or both; filter, add a litt le Powdered Cha rcoal in th e filter . 4 2 0 2 . E a u A n g e l i q u e .—Angelica Root, true, 1 / 2 ounce. Red Rose Leaves 2 drachms, Cloves 90 grains. Nutmeg, Cinnamon, each, 60 grains, Extract Vanilla 1 / 2 ounce, Oil Peppermint 30 minims, Oil Wintergreen 20 minims, Cologne Spirit 14 ounces, Glycerin 2 ounces, Cochineal 8 grains. Grind the drugs to a fine powder and macerate for seven days with the mixed Glycerin and Cologne Spirit; pour off the liquid and put the drugs in a percolator; pour the liquid upon the drugs and percolate, adding enough Cologne Spirit through the percolator to make i pint. Dissolve the Oils in 2 drachms of Cologne Spirit and mix with the liquid; then add the Extract Vanilla and filter, adding a little Powdered Cha r coal in th e filter .
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4 2 0 3 . B a l s a m i c T o o t h W a s h .— Compound Tincture of Benzoin, Tincture Tolu, Tincture Myrrh, each 1 / 2 ounce. White Castile Soap 1 ounce, Hot Water 10 ounces, Glycerin 2 ounces, Cologne Spirit 3 ounces, Oil Peppermint 40 minims, Oil Wintergreen 20 minims, Oil Cloves 10 minims. Mix the Tinctures and the Cologne Spirit, and dissolve the Oils in the mixture. Cut the Soap in fine shavings, and dissolve in the Hot Water; add the Glycerin to this solution. Add the sapona ceous solution very gradu ally to the s olution of Oils a nd Balsam s, allow to stand twenty-four hours, shaking occasionally, then filter, add ing a litt le Powdered Cha rcoal to the filter .
The sa pona ceous solution can be best a dded to th e balsa mic solution by put ting a cork in a fun nel so th at it will be added drop by drop. T he solution of soap m ust a lways be add ed to the balsam ic solution.
4 2 0 4 . A l m o n d T o o t h C r e a m .—Tincture Myrrh, Tincture Tolu, each 1 / 2 ounce, Oil Bitter Almonds 20 minims, Borax, powdered, 1 / 2 ounce, Glycerin 2 oun ces. Hot Wat er 13 ounces. Mix th e Tinctur es, an d dissolve in t he m ixtu re t he Oil of Bitter Almonds , dissolve th e Bora x in th e Hot Water and add the Glycerin, add the solution of Borax very gradually (by dr opping as d irected in th e previous for mu las) to th e Tinctu res , etc. 4 2 0 5 . C a r b o l a t e d T o o t h W a s h .—Carbolic Acid 20 grains, Alcohol 1 dr achm , Ea u Angelique 1 pint , dissolve the Ca r bolic Acid in t he Alcohol and add the Eau Angelique. Carbolic Acid may be added to any of the other Tooth Washes, in the same proportion as above. It makes a valuable addit ion in ma ny cases, as it dest roys t he odor of decayed teet h an d offensive breat h. 4 2 0 6 . A r n i c a T o o t h W a s h .— Arnica Flowers 1 ounce, Gum Myrrh 1 / 4 ounce, Cloves 60 grains. Cinnamon 60 grains. Oil Peppermint 40 minims, Cologne Spirit enough t o ma ke 1 pint, grind t he dr ugs t o a fine powder and percolate with the Cologne Spirit until 1 pint is obtained, an d ad d th e Oil of Pepper min t, filter if necessar y. 4207. "Sozodont."— This is a proprietary Dentifrice, a similar preparation may be made with White Castile Soap 1 1 / 2 ounce av., Glycerin 4 fl.ounces, Cologne Spirit 6 fl.ounces. Water 6 fl.ounces. Oil Peppermint 20 minims, Oil Wintergreen 30 minims. Oil Cloves, 10 Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Prepa ra tions and P erfumes - Page 9 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
minims, Extract Vanilla 1 / 2 ounce, cut the Soap in fine shavings and dissolve it in the water by the aid of heat, then add the Glycerin and Extract Vanilla, dissolve the Oils in the Alcohol and add, and after sta nding filter. T o ot h P a s t e s .
Tooth past es ar e favorit e dent ifrices, made u p in t he form of a soft m ass an d usua lly put u p in flat eart hen jars. 4 2 0 8 . C h e r r y T o o t h P a s t e .—Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces, Powdered Orris Root 8 ounces, Powdered Areca Nut 2 ounces, Powdered Cuttle Bone 2 ounces. Powdered Quillaya Bark 1 ounce. Borax, in powder, 1 ounce, Carmine, in fine powder, or solution of Carmine, a sufficient quantity, Oil of Cloves, Oil of Nutmeg, each 40 minims, Oil of Bitter Almond 30 minims, Oil of Rose 10 minims, Glycerin, Honey and Mucilage Acacia, equal quantities, each a sufficient quantity to make into a mass, mix the powders first and color with the Carmine or Car mine solution, then m ake into a ma ss. 4 2 0 9 . S a p o n a c e o u s T o o t h P a s t e .—Precipitated Chalk 4 ounces, Powdered Orris Root 4 ounces, White Castile Soap 1 ounce, Powdered Borax 1 ounce. Powdered Myrrh 1 / 2 ounce, Honey and Glycerin, equal parts, sufficient to make a paste. This may be perfumed with Wint ergreen, Ca ssia or other flavors , and colored with Car mine or Rose Pin k, if desired . 4 2 1 0 . O d o n t i n e P a s t e .— French Chalk 8 ounces. Soap, in powder, 4 ounces, Sugar 4 ounces. Gum Arabic, in powder, 1 / 2 oun ce, Pepperm int Oil, Wintergreen Oil, each 1 drachm, Glycerin and Honey, sufficient to ma ke a ma ss. This ma y be colored if desired. 4 2 1 1 . C h a r c o a l T o o t h P a s t e .—A Cha rcoal Tooth Pa ste m ay be ma de by using 4 ounces of Charcoal, in fine powder, instead of the Soap, in th e for egoing for mu la. 4 21 2. T o o t h P a s t e fo r M e t a l T u b e s .—A Tooth Pa st e for p ut tin g up in met al t ubes m ay be ma de from a ny of th e foregoing form ula s by mak ing them m uch t hinner with th e Glycerin and H oney than when they are to be put u p in jars or pots. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 10 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
T oo t h P o w d e r s .
Tooth Powders are the most frequently sold of any of the dentifrices, probably because they are better known and are furnished at a less price; a great variety are found in the market. The following formulae ma ke prepa ra tions similar to a few of th e best. 4 2 1 3 . T o o t h P o w d e r .—General formula .—Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces, Powdered Cuttle Bone 4 ounces, Orris Root, in powder, 3 ounces, Powdered Borax 1 ounce, Oil of Cloves 10 minims, Oil of Wintergreen 2 fl.drachms. Carmine solution a sufficient quantity, mix th e powders a nd with a s ma ll port ion in corpora te t he Oils and s ufficient of the Carmine solution to color the batch, making a moist powder, to this gradually add the remainder of the powder, rubbing the mixture well togeth er un til th ey ar e th oroughly mixed an d of un iform color an d flavor. This may be flavored with other flavoring oils in place of those mentioned, as desired, giving it an entirely different flavor. Various substances may be added to this powder, changing it in appearance, flavor, etc., but it is essentially the basis of all the other powders and may be kept in stock for mixing other substances, as Powdered Pumice Stone or Marble Dust may be used instead of Powdered Cuttle Bone, but th e latt er is generally preferable, 4 2 1 4 . C a r b o l i c T o o t h P o w d e r .—Mix 1 / 2 ounce of Carbolic Acid with 20 oun ces of t he for egoing, by r ubbin g it fir st with a s ma ll por tion of th e powder a nd t hen incorpora ting with th e rema inder. 4 2 1 5 . C i n c h o n a T o o t h P o w d e r .—Add 2 ounces of powdered Cinchona Bark and 1 ounce of powdered Myrrh to 20 ounces of the gener a l Tooth Powder (4213). 4 2 1 6 . C a m p h o r a t e d T o o t h P o w d e r .—Mix Ca mp hor in fine p owder 1 ounce with 20 ounces of the general Tooth Powder (4213), and when th oroughly mixed pass th rough a fine sieve. 4 2 1 7 . Q u i n i n e T o o t h P o w d e r .— Mix Sulphate of Quinine 1 / 4 ounce with 20 oun ces of th e gener a l Tooth Powder (4213). 4 2 1 8 . R o s e T o o t h P o w d e r .—Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces, Powdered Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 11 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
Orris Root 4 ounces, Powdered Cuttle Bone 4 ounces, Carmine in fine powder 2 drachms, or sufficient to color, Oil of Rose 30 minims, Oil of San ta l Wood 5 minims , Oil Cassia 5 minims, mix th em well togeth er a s directed in t he genera l form ula. 4 2 1 9 . S a p o n a c e o u s T o o t h P o w d e r .— Precipitated Chalk 8 ounces, Powdered Cuttle Bone 4 ounces, Powdered White Soap 4 ounces, Oil of Winter-green 2 drachms, Oil of Calamus 10 minims, mix them well together.
It is needless to give further formulas for tooth powders, as an infinite variety may be ma de in t he sam e general ma nn er a s ha s been described in the foregoing, it being only necessary to change the flavor, or color, an d add su ch other a nt iseptic or other ingredient s as m ay be desired. 4 2 2 0 . T o o t h T a b l e t s .— These are simply tooth powders put up in the form of cak es or squ ar es, an d m ay be m ade as follows: Powdered Cu tt le Bone or Pumice Stone 4 ounces. Orris Root, in powder, 4 ounces, Carbonate of Magnesium 4 ounces. White Castile Soap 4 ounces, Gum Arabic, in fine powder, 1 ounce, Water 6 ounces, Essence of Wintergreen 2 ounces. Beat the Castile Soap and the Gum Arabic with the water and Essence of Winter-green, and having mixed the other powders, gradually incorporate them wilh the mixture by working in a mortar the same as a pill or lozenge mass. Then roll out and cut out or mar k as desired into squar es, and dry them with gent le heat . M ou t h Wa t e r s .
In th is conn ection it is pr oper to give a few .orm ulas for Mout h Water s, which a re used for r insing th e mout h a nd t eeth, preventing bad breath , etc. 4221 . E a u d e B o t o t o r M ou t h Wa t e r .—Anise S eed 10 oun ces, Ceylon Cinnamon 2 1 / 4 ounces, Cloves 75 grains, Cochineal 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of Peppermint 1 / 2 ounce, Alcohol sufficient to make 20 fl.ounces, grind the drugs and macerate with the alcohol, then percolate until 20 ounces have passed and dissolve the Oil of Peppermint in the percolate. This may be more readily made with Oil of Anise 1 / 2 ounce. Oil of Cinnamon
1 dra chm . Oil Pepper mint 1 / 2 ounce, Oil Cloves, 10 minims, dissolved in Alcohol 19 fl.ounces. A teaspoonful of this is poured into half a glass of Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 12 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
Warm Water for r insing th e mout h a nd t eeth. It ma y be applied to th e teeth also with a br ush , simply to clean t hem. 4 2 2 2 . S a l i c y l i c M o u t h W a t e r .—Salicylic Acid 20 grains, Oil of Peppermint 10 drops, Oil of Wintergreen 20 drops. Alcohol 2 fl.ounces, Ora nge Flower Wat er, Distilled Wat er, each, 2 1 / 2 fl.ounces, mix the Oils an d Acid with th e Alcohol and a dd t he Wat ers. This is t o be dilut ed with 2 to 4 part s of Wat er when used. 4 2 2 3 . V i o l e t M o u t h W a t e r .—Extract of Orris Root (934) 8 ounces, Essence of Rose (920) 8 ounces, Oil Bitter Almonds 5 drops, Alcohol 8 oun ces, mix them . Use 1 t easpoonful in h alf a glass of wat er for rins ing th e mout h, etc.
H AI R P R E P AR AT I O N S .
Pr epara tions for t he Ha ir ar e put u p by most a ll dru ggists, an d a great var iety of Dyes, Restora t ives, Tonics, Poma des, Cosm etics, Oils, etc., ar e found in the market. The formula for Dyes, Restoratives and Tonics have already been given in the Standard Remedies Department, and th e for mu las wh ich follow will be more especially devoted to such a s a r e classed with Toilet P repa ra tions. Depilatories.
Depilatories are preparations designed to remove superfluous hair, by killing its r oots. Th ey are but litt le used. 4 2 2 4 . D e p i l a t o r y P a s t e .— Freshly-slacked Lime 1 ounce, Starch in fine powder 2 drachms. Glycerin 2 ounces, Water 1 / 2 ounce; heat the Sta rch with t he Glycerin on a sa nd-bath un til it is gelatinized; th en mix th e Lime with th e Wat er a nd st ir with th e paste un til thoroughly mixed. The hair is to be shaved off close, this is then to be applied and left on for only a few moments (3 to 5 minutes), then removed and the part dress ed with crea m or soft oint men t. 4 2 2 5 . D e p i l a t o r y P o w d e r .—Arsenic 1 part, Quick Lime 8 parts, well mixed together ; when used th is is to be mixed with Glycerite of Sta rch, or Soft Soap; it should be freshly made when wanted. As this is quite Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 13 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
poisonous a s well as cau st ic it sh ould be ha ndled with cau tion. 4 22 6. D e p i l a t o r y L i q u i d .— Quicklime, in p owder , 1 oun ce, Car bona te of Potassium 1 ounce, Sugar 2 ounces, Water 4 ounces, boil them together and after standing decant. The Caustic Liquid may be applied as it is or mixed with sta rch past e. H a i r D y e s.
Formulas for Hair Dyes will be found in Part IV; but two more are appended here. 4 2 2 7 . B i s m u t h H a i r D y e .— Trisnitrate of Bismuth 1 ounce av.. Glycerine 3 1 / 2 fl.ounces, dissolve the Bismuth in the Glycerine. When desired to use mix the Dye with an equal quantity of Water and apply as usua l. 4 2 2 8 . V a n a d i u m H a i r D y e .— This is applied with two prepar at ions in the same manner as the Nitrate of Silver Dye 4039, using the same morda nt , an d then a pply th e Van adium solution in the sam e mann er as the Silver Dye. The Vanadium Solution is made with Vanadate of Amm oniu m 10 gra ins, dissolved in Wat er 4 oun ces. Ha ir Oils, Et c.
These are liquid prepara tions intended as a dressing for th e ha ir t o keep it soft and glossy, clean the scalp, etc. A great variety of such preparations may be made, but a few formulas only will be necessary; for, with a good base, th e perfumes m ay be varied to suit th e ta ste. The following bas es m a y be used : 4 2 2 9 . C a s t o r O i l B a s e f o r H a i r O i l .—Castor Oil 12 fl.ounces, Alcohol 5 fl.ounces. Mix them. As Castor Oil mixes in all preparations with Alcohol this m ay be ma de th inner if desired by using a lar ger pr oport ion of Alcohol. 4 23 0. O t h e r H a i r O i l B a s e s .— Oil of Benne, Oil of Almond, Mustard Seed Oil, Oil of Cotton Seed, refined. Lard Oil, Salad Oil, Hickory Nut Oil and White Neutral Paraffin Oil , are all good bases for Hair Oils; th ey may be per fum ed with a ny combina tion of perfum ing Oils desired, a nd color ed if desir ed a s dir ect ed for color ing. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 14 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 2 3 1 . C o l o r i n g f o r H a i r O i l s .— Hair Oils are best colored Red by infusing t hem with Alka net cont ained in a th in cott on bag, occasiona lly squeezing out th e coloring m at ter . No oth er subst an ce gives so fine a red color to Oils as this. The Oils may be heated or macerated cold, but it requires longer if prepared cold. Other colors for Hair Oils are seldom r equir ed, but t hey can be colored ora nge or yellow with Ana tt o, or gr een with fresh lawn grass. 4 2 3 2 . W a l n u t H a i r O i l .— As a sam ple of Ha ir Oils th at ma y be made by macerating substances of various kinds in oils the following is given: Cru sh 2 ounces of fresh green Walnu t sh ells with 1 / 4 ounce of powdered Alum to a smooth paste; digest with 10 ounces of White Neutral Paraffin Oil or any bland Vegetable Oil, as Cotton Seed or other oil, until all vapor has been driven off, then strain and perfume as desired. Fr esh Violet F lowers, Rose or Orr is or oth er odorous su bsta nces, may be ma cerat ed with Oil in a similar ma nn er. P e r f u m e s fo r H a i r O ils .
Hair Oils may be perfumed as desired with perfuming Oils or mixtures of Oils. The following mixtu r es for gener al u se a re r ecomm ended : 4 2 3 3 . R o s e O i l P e r f u m e , c h e a p .— Oil of Bergamot 4 ounces, Oil of Citronella 1 ounce, Oil of Cassia or Cinnamon 3 drachms. Oil of Cloves 1 / 2 dra chm . Mix th em. Of th is, from 3 to 6 dra chm s or m ore m ay be used for each pint of Oil. If finer perfumes are desired without regard to expense, from 1 t o 3 oun ces of Bulk P erfum e of a ny odor ma y be used in place of an equal quantity of Alcohol in the Castor Oil Base, or the following combin a tions of Fa tt y Per fumin g Oils, etc., ma y be used to mix with any of the other Hair Oil bases. The fatty Oils mentioned in the formulas are made by macerating the fresh flowers in Almond or Olive Oil. They are imported and may be obtained of New-York jobbing houses. These perfumes can also be used for fine pomades or stick cosmetics. 4 2 3 4 . F i n e R o s e O i l P e r f u m e .— Oil or Otto of Rose 2 parts. Oil of Rose Gera nium 4 par ts, Oil of Pat chouli 1 part . Oil of Ja smine, fatt y, 10 parts, Oil of Tuberose, fatty, 10 parts, Oil of Violet, fatty, 5 parts. Mix them. This may be used as is necessary to perfume the Oil, from 2 Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 15 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
dr achm s to 1 oun ce being used t o each pin t of Oil. 4235. F i n e O r a n g e F lo w e r P e r f u m e .—Oil of Ner oli, Bigar a de, 1 par t , Oil of Ner oli, Pet it Gr ain , Oil of J as min e, fat ty, 10 par ts . Mix th em. This ma y be used t he sa me a s th e foregoing. 4 2 3 6 . I l a n g I l a n g P e r f u m e .— Oil of Ilang Ilang 1 part, Oil of Tuberose, fatty, 10 parts, Oil of Violet, fatty, 5 parts. Mix them. This may be used the same as the foregoing. Other combinations may be made in th e same manner. Hair Growers.
For promoting the growth of the hair many preparations of an oily nature are used. Several such preparations are noticed under Hair Tonics; the following are added in this department. These are par ticular ly used for th in or falling ha ir, baldness, etc. 4 2 3 7 . H a i r G r o w e r .— Neutral Paraffin Oil or Cotton Seed Oil 1 pint, Cantharides, in coarse powder, 60 grains, Alkanet Root, in coarse powder, 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of Cinnamon 5 minims, Oil of Lemon 30 minims, Oil of Citronella 10 minims, Oil of Bergamot 60 minims. Enclose the Cantharides and Alkanet in a coarse muslin bag and digest in the Oil by the a id of a wa ter -bat h a t a moderat e hea t for 12 hour s, occasiona lly squeezing th e bag, and th en, when cool, add th e perfum ing oils. 4 2 3 8 . B a y H a i r G r o w e r .—Castor Oil 10 ounces av.. Tincture of Cantharides (1880) 1 fl.ounce, Cologne Spirit 5 fl.ounces. Oil of Bay Leaves 20 m inims , Oil of Pim ent o 5 min ims. Oil of Berga mot 30 m inims . Mix th em. This m ay be colored red if desired with Tinctu r e of Alkan et. 4 23 9. C o c o a i n e o r C o c o a C r e a m .— Cocoanut Oil 1 ounce. Castor Oil 8 ounces, Cologne Spirit 7 ounces, Oil of Bergamot 1 drachm, Oil of Lemon 1 / 2 drachm. Melt the Cocoanut Oil by gentle heat and add it to the Castor Oil previously warmed, add the Cologne Spirit and, when cool, the flavoring Oils. 4 2 4 0 . T r i c o p h o r u s .— Castor Oil 8 ounces, Alcohol 8 ounces. Oil Bergamot 1 1 / 2 drachms, Tincture Cantharides (1880) 2 drachms. Tinctu r e Alka n et, su fficient to color a light r ed. Mix. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 16 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 2 4 1 . H a i r G r o w e r P o m a d e .—Petrolatum 1 pound, Tincture of Cantha rides 1 1 / 2 oun ce, Oil of Cinn a mon 10 m inims , Oil of Bergam ot 60 minims, Oil of Citronella 20 minims, Oil of Cloves 5 minims. Melt the Petr olatu m, add th e tinctur e, and wh ile cooling a dd t he oils. H a i r L ot i o n s .
Ha ir Lotions differ from H air Oils in cont a ining bu t litt le or n o oil. They are applied more freely to the hair and intended to promote its growth, an d give it a gloss or lust er, also to clean t he scalp an d r emove dan dru ff, eru ptions, et c. 4 2 4 2 . A l m o n d H a i r L o t i o n .— Cologne 4 ounces, Glycerin 1 ounce, Water of Ammonia 1 / 2 ounce. Bitter Almond or Cherry Laurel Water 4 ounces. Mix them. 4 2 4 3 . B a y H a i r L o t i o n .— Make the same as the foregoing, only use Bay Ru m in st ead of Cologne. 4 24 4. R o s e H a i r L o t i o n .— Make t he sa me a s t he first ment ioned, but use Rose Wat er inst ead of Almond Wat er. Man y oth ers m ay be ma de in the same manner. 4 2 4 5 . S t i m u l a t i n g H a i r L o t i o n .— For thin hair, baldness, etc.. Tincture of Cantharides (1880) 2 drachms. Acetic Ether 2 drachms, Glycerin 2 ounces, Bay Rum 6 ounces. Mix them. Cologne diluted with an equal quan tity of Water m ay be used instead of Bay Rum. 4 2 4 6 . B a y R u m .— A great many formulas for Bay Rum have been published, but we have seen n o rea son t o cha nge th e form ula wh ich we published many years ago, which quite closely imitates the imported distilled Bay Ru m, a nd gives excellent s at isfa ct ion. It was as follows: Oil of Bay Leaves 2 fl.drachms, Oil of Bergamot 30 minims, Oil of Pimenta 15 minims , Acetic Et her 15 minim s. Cau st ic Soda , or concent r at ed Lye, 2 drachms, Cologne Spirit 3 1 / 2 pints, Water 4 1 / 2 pints. Grass-green color ing, sufficient . Mix th e oils a nd dissolve th em in t he Cologne Sp irit , dissolve the Caustic Soda in the Water and gradually add the solution to the Alcoholic solution of the oils, then add the Acetic Ether and enough of the green coloring to give the desired color, and after Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 17 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
standing a few days filter through a glass funnel without using a filter ra ck or a ny met allic substan ce. 4 2 4 7 . S h a m p o o L i q u i d s .— Two kinds of Shampoo Liquids are used, the "wet" and the "dry," the former being intended to be used with a quan tity of Water t o wash t he hea d an d th e oth er t o be applied in sma ll quantities and the hair rubbed until nearly dry. Of the former the two form ulas ar e given. 4 2 4 8 . B a r b e r s ' S h a m p o o .— Carbonate of Potassium (Salts of Tartar) 90 grains, Water of Ammonia 3 fl.ounces, Cologne 2 fl.ounces, Water, sufficient to ma ke 2 pint s. Mix and dissolve. 4 2 4 9 . C l i f f o r d ' s S h a m p o o C o m p o u n d .— Borax 12 ounces. Salts of Tartar 4 ounces. Mix and dissolve 1 ounce of the mixture in 1 pint of Water when want ed for use. 4 2 5 0 . D r y S h a m p o o .— Cologne 1 ounce. Alcohol 2 ounces, Water of Amm onia 3 oun ces, Wat er 12 ounces. Mix th em. This is applied an d t he ha ir ru bbed unt il th e lather first form ed has dried. 4 2 5 1 . S e a F o a m .—Bay Rum 3 fl.ounces, Water of Ammonia 3 fl.oun ces, Wat er 10 fl.oun ces. Mix t hem . 4 2 5 2 . Q u i l l a y a S e a F o a m .— Tincture of Quillaya 2 ounces, Cologne or Bay Rum 2 oun ces, Wat er 12 oun ces. Mix th em. This does a way with th e odor of Amm onia , which is disa greea ble to ma ny. Pomades.
Pomades for the hair are fatty preparations of the consistence of ointm ent s. They were form erly made of beef ma rr ow, suet, wash ed lar d, or a mixture of fats, generally perfumed and colored, but were quite liable to spoil or become rancid by standing. Since the introduction of Petrolatum it has, in this country, taken the place of other fats as a basis for pomades, as it is of about the right consistence, and never becomes ra ncid n or deter iora tes. It is t her efore directed in t he following formulas, but if preferred, the purified suet directed for making stick poma des (4256) ma y be used as a base. 4 2 5 3 . B a r b e r s ' P o m a d e .—Petrolatum 16 ounces. Oil of Bergamot 60 Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 18 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
minims, Oil of Citronella 20 minims, Oil of Cassia 10 minims, Oil of Cloves 5 minims . Melt t he pet r olat um an d while cooling, but st ill liquid, add the oils and mix thoroughly. If finer perfume is desired without regar d to expense th e fine perfumes given u nder Ha ir Oils ma y be used. 4 2 5 4 . F i n e P o m a d e s .— By mixing equal parts of Petrolatum with various Flower Pomades No. 24, and, if necessary, adding additional perfume, a great variety of Fine Pomades may be made, as Acacia or Cassia Pomade, Rose P oma de, Ora nge F lower P oma de, Violet P oma de, etc. They may also be made by mixing Petrolatum with Purified Suet (4256), equal parts, and scenting with fine perfuming Oils as directed for St ick P oma des. It is u nn ecessa ry t o give detailed form ula s. 4 2 5 5 . — P o m a d e H o n g r o i s e o r M o u s t a c h e W a x .—White Wax 1 ounce, Powdered Castile Soap 1 / 2 ounce. Gum Arabic, powdered, 1 / 2 oun ce, Rose Wa ter 1 ounce, Oil of Bergam ot 30 min ims, Oil of Thyme 3 drops. Melt the Gum Arabic and the Soap in the Rose Water by gentle heat, then, having previously melted the Wax, add it gradually to the mixtur e, stirr ing th em const an tly ; while cooling, add th e perfume.
It is usu ally put up in jars or pots. S t ic k P o m a d e s o r C o s m e t i cs .
These are pomades of much firmer consistence than the foregoing, containing considerable wax, and run in sticks. They are used for the moustache and whiskers, and for making the hair lay where it is wanted. 4 2 5 6 . S t i c k C o s m e t i c B a s e .—Take 10 pounds of fresh Beef Suet, cut it in small pieces, pound it in a mortar and wash it thoroughly several times in pur e cold Wat er. Then put over th e fire a nd slowly "tr y it out ," not allowing it to come to a boil (as that develops the disagreeable animal odor), add to it when melted 2 1 / 2 drachms powdered Alum and about t he sa me am oun t of Salt, th en let it come to a simmer , rem ove th e scum th at rises, an d str ain t hr ough a fine wire or m uslin st ra iner, int o a deep dish partly filled with hot Water. Allow it to stand 2 or 3 hours, th at all impur e mat ter m ay settle, th en remove from the dish, melt a nd mix 1 ounce powdered Gum Benzoin, and 1 / 2 pint Rose Water, bring to a boil and simmer for a few minutes, skimming off all that rises to the Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 19 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
top, add to it 1 / 2 gallon boiling water , agita te a nd st ir th oroughly an d at last pour off into a shallow pan to cool. This makes the same kind of purified grease that is used in making perfumed Pomades. It will keep for an y length of time sweet an d pu re, without becoming r an cid, an d is suited well for making any of the harder kinds of Pomade s, Cosm etiques , etc. To make the Stick Pomade, take of the Purified Suet thus prepared 10 1 / 2 ounces, White Wax or Paraffin 1 1 / 2 ounce. Perfume as desired. This is sufficient to make 1 dozen 1 ounce sticks of Pomade, which may be ma de by ru nn ing in su itable moulds. The bas e ma y be perfum ed with th e mixtur es of perfum ing oils a s given under hair oils, or as follows: The quantity of perfuming oils stated being for 12 ounces of the base. This may be variously perfumed with other ingredients, or colored brown with umber, black with ivory black, etc. 4 25 7. Al m o n d C o s m e t i c .— 30 min ims E ssen tia l Oil of Almonds. 4 25 8. B a y C o s m e t i c .— 30 m inim s Oil of Ba y. 4 25 9. C a s s i a C o s m e t i c .— 30 min ims Oil of Cassia . 4 26 0. O r a n g e F l o w e r C o s m e t i c .— 20 m inim s Oil of Ner oli. 42 61 . R o s e G e r a n i u m C o s m e t i c .— 30 minims Oil Rose Gera nium . 4 2 6 2 . S a n t a l i n a C o s m e t i c .—30 minims Santal Wood Oil, 5 drops Oil Rose. 4 26 3. Ve r b e n a C o s m e t i c .— 20 minims Oil Lemon Gr as s. 4 2 6 4 . W h i t e R o s e C o s m e t i c .—10 minims Oil Rose, 3 minims Oil Patchouly. 4 2 6 5 . Y l a n g Y l a n g C o s m e t i c .—10 min ims Oil Ylan g Ylan g, 3 minim s Oil Rose.
Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 20 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
Hair Powders.
For powdering the hair white ordinary powdered starch scented with some kind of bulk perfume is generally used. The perfume may be rubbed with a small quantity of the powder first and then with the rema inder gradua lly added. Silver powder is made from mica, coarsely ground, and gold powder
from gold color ed m ica or Tins el groun d or finely cu t. C O S ME T I C I C E S A ND J E L L I E S .
The most familiar preparation of this kind is Camphor Ice, which is considerably used for sun-burn, tan, chap, chafe, etc. Cold cream is a softer prepa ra tion m uch used for t he sa me pu rpose. Formu las for both of these have been given under other headings (3709), (4094), and a few only will be given h ere. 4 2 6 6 . C a m p h o r I c e w i t h G l y c e r i n .— Paraffin or White Wax 4 ounces, White Petrolatum or Washed Lard 12 ounces, Camphor 3 ou n ces, Glycer in 3 oun ces. Oil of Bitt er Almond 20 min ims , Oil of Rose 5 minims, Oil of Cloves 5 minims. Melt the Paraffin and Petrolatum together and remove from the fire, add the Camphor in powder and keep warm until the Camphor is dissolved, then strain, and while cooling add the Glycerin and Perfuming Oils, beating them well together until it is cool enough to set, when run into cold moulds or a flat pa n on ice. It m ay th en be cut up a s desired. 4 2 6 7 . C a r b o l a t e d C a m p h o r I c e .— This may be made by adding 2 oun ces of Car bolic Acid t o the ingred ient s of t he for mu la 4094. 4268 . C a r b o la t e d C a m p h o r I c e w i t h G ly c e r i n .—This ma y be made by add ing 1 oun ce of Car bolic Acid t o th e ingr edient s of th e for mu la for Cam ph or Ice with Glycer in (4266). 4 26 9. G l y c e r i n , H o n e y o r J e l l y .— Solidified Glycerin .— Tran spar ent Soap 4 ounces, Water 6 ounces, Glycerin 12 ounces. Oil Bergamot 20 minims, Oil Cloves 10 minims, Oil Bitter Almonds 5 minims. Cut the Soap in thin shavings and dissolve in an evaporating dish with the Water, when dissolved add the Glycerin and boil for one hour or until Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 21 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
th e vapor of Water no longer r ises, an d th e liquid mea sur es only 1 pint , when n ear ly cool stir in t he essen tial oils an d pour into a sh allow pan or boxes designed for the preparation; the perfume may be varied to suit, by using oth er combinat ions. This makes t ra nspa ren t J elly. 4 27 0. G l y c e r i n J e l l y .— Another method of making this is as follows: White Ca st ile Soap , in powder, 140 par ts . Pur e Glycerin 210 par ts . Oil of Almonds, expressed, 1260 parts for winter use, or 1680 parts for summer use, Oil of Bergamot 8 parts, Oil of Rose 2 parts, Oil of Lavender 4 par ts, mix th e powdered Soap a nd t he Glycerin in a Mort ar , then add the Oil of Almonds and incorporate it by triturating rapidly and add th e perfume. This J elly is not t ra nspar ent. 4271 . C a m p h o r a t e d G ly c e r i n H o n e y o r J e l ly .—This may be made by adding Yz ounce of Powdered Camphor to the Glycerin Honey while warm. 4 2 7 2 . C a r b o l a t e d G l y c e r i n H o n e y .—This may be prepared by adding Carbolic Acid 1 / 4 ounce to the Glycerin Honey while warm, the sam e ma y also be added t o th e Cam phorat ed Glycerin H oney if desired. 4 2 7 3 . G l y c e r i n e I c e .—Gelatine 2 ounces, Water 6 ounces, Glycerin 14 oun ces, perfum ing Oils to suit. Dissolve th e Gelat in in t he Wat er by th e hea t of a wa ter -bat h, add th e Glycerin previously hea ted, boil un til only 1 pint remains and strain, while cooling incorporate the perfumes, and pour in to sha llow tin s, th is ma y be color ed r ed or oth er color if desired. It resem bles Ice. To apply it t he sk in sh ould first : be moisten ed with Water an d th e cak e ru bbed over it. 4 27 4. G l y c e r i n e J e l l y .— Gelatin 1 ounce, Glycerin 1 pint, Boric Acid, in fine powder, 2 drachms, Water 1 pint, Bulk Perfume 1 or 2 ounces. Soak the Gelatin in the Water until soft, then heat until dissolved, add the Glycerin and Boric Acid and strain while cooling, add the perfume and mix thoroughly, this is a thin or soft Jelly and should be put up in pots or jar s. It is an excellent prepa ra tion for cha p, cha fe an d r oughn ess of th e skin. 4 27 5. Ar n i c a J e l l y .— This may be made by adding 4 fl.ounces of Tincture of Arnica to the Solution of Gelatin, and boiling the solution un til only 1 pint rem ains , th en a dding th e Glycerin, etc., as before. The firm Arnica Jelly may be made by adding Tincture Arnica 2 ounces, to Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 22 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
each pint of any of the form er pr epar at ions before a dding th e Glycerin, etc., other substances may be combined with the Jellies in the same manner. LOTIONS.
Lotions a re int ended to whiten a nd soften th e skin, remove pimples, tan , freckles, sunburn, etc. The milks are also included under this heading, as t hey ar e employed for similar pur poses. 4 2 7 6 . M o t h a n d F r e c k l e L o t i o n .—Bichloride of Mercury 60 grains, Chloride of Ammonium 240 grains, Alcohol 3 flounces, Rose or Orange Flower Water 3 flounces, Water 10 fl.ounces. Rub the corrosive sublimate to a fine powder and dissolve it in the Alcohol, dissolve the Chloride of Ammonium in the Water, add the Rose or Orange Flower Water an d m ix with th e Alcoholic solution, a fter sta nding a day or t wo, filter. This may be applied once or twice a day with a soft sponge or linen cloth an d will quickly rem ove moth or fr eckles, ta n, et c. 4 2 7 7 . A n t i - F r e c k l e L o t i o n .—Bichloride of Mercury 12 grains. Hydr ochloric Acid 3 fl.dr achm s. Bitt er Almonds 1 1 / 2 ounces, Glycerin 1 ounce, Tincture Benzoin 2 drachms. Orange Flower Water sufficient to make 1 pint. Dissolve the Bichloride of Mercury in 3 ounces of the Orange Flower Water, add the Hydrochloric Acid and set acide. Blanch the Almonds and bruise them to a paste in a mortar with the Glycerin and add sufficient Orange Flower Water to make about 12 ounces of Cream or Milk of Almonds, add to this the Tincture of Benzoin, drop by drop, rubbing them well together, then add the solution of Bichloride of Mercury, and enough Orange Flower Water to make a pint and strain th e whole forcibly th rough a cheese cloth str ainer to rem ove the coar ser particles of Almond. 4 2 7 8 . F r e c k l e L o t i o n .—Sulpho-Carbolate of Zinc 1 / 4 ounce av., Glycerin 3 ounces av.. Alcohol 2 fl.ounces, Orange Flower Water 3 fl.oun ces, Rose Wat er s ufficient t o ma ke a pint . Mix, dissolve an d filter . 4 2 7 9 . F a c e L o t i o n .—Bitter Almonds, Sweet Almonds, each, 1 ounce, Oil of Almonds 1 ounce, Spermaceti 1 / 2 ounce. Borax, in powder, 1 / 4 ounce, Glycerin 4 ounces. Rose or Orange Flower Water sufficient to Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 23 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
ma ke a pint . Blanch t he Almonds a nd r educe them to a un iform paste, by beating in a mortar and then rubbing with the Glycerin. Rub the Spermaceti in another mortar previously warmed with the Oil of Almonds, and beat until dissolved. Dissolve the Borax in half a pint of th e perfum ed Wat er, an d ha ving gradu ally added t he war m Oil solution to the emulsion of Almonds in the mortar, rubbing them constantly, th en a dd th e solution of Bora x and sha ke th em well togeth er, then add enough of the perfumed Water to make a pint and strain the mixture th r ough coar se cheese cloth to rem ove lar ger pa rt icles of Almond. 4 2 8 0 . P i m p l e L o t i o n .—Carbolic Acid 1 drachm, Borax 4 drachms, Glycerin 2 fl.oun ces, Ta n nin 2 dr achm s, Alcoh ol 3 fl.oun ces, Rose Wat er 10 fl.oun ces, mix an d dissolve. Apply night a nd morn ing. 4 28 1 . M i l k o f A lm o n d s .—Bitt er Almond, Sweet Almond, each 1 ou nce, Alcohol, Glycerin, each, 3 ounces. Oil of Bitter Almonds 30 minims. Water sufficient to make a pint. Blanch the Almonds, beat to a paste, add the Glycerin, dissolve the Oil of Almonds in the Alcohol and add, th en add enough Water to make a pint a nd st ra in thr ough cheese cloth to remove the coarser particles of Almond. This may also be made by mixing 1 1 / 2 ounce Expressed Oil of Almond with 8 ounces of Water, in
which 1 / 2 ounce of Borax has been dissolved and adding to the mixture 3 ounces of Glycerin, and 3 ounces of Alcohol in which 10 drops of Ess ent ial Oil of Almond is dissolved, and Water enough t o mak e I pint . This is used as a bland application for sunburn, tan, etc., also as a vehicle for oth er medicina l subst an ces. 4282. Milk o f R ose s .— This may be made in th e same m an ner as Milk of Almond, except that Oil of Rose 15 drops, instead of Essential Oil of Bitter Almond, and Rose Water instead of Water, are to be used with the other ingredients. Another formula is Sweet Almonds, blanched, 4 ounces, Rose Water 1 pint, Alcohol 2 ounces, Oil of Rose 20 minims. White Wax, Spermaceti, Castile Soap, each, 2 drachms. The Almonds are blanched and beat with the Rose Water; the Wax Soap and Spermaceti are melted together by water-bath and the Almond Emulsion is gradually mixed by rubbing in a warm mortar with the melt ed in gredien ts . The Alcohol in wh ich th e Oil of Rose is dissolved is th en a dded to the m ixtu re. By usin g Pista chio Nu ts in stea d of Almonds, a finer pr epara tion m ay be made. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 24 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 2 8 3 . L a i t V i r g i n a l .— Tincture of Benzoin 1 / 2 ounce, Cologne 2 ounces, Glycerin 2 ounces, Rose Water or other Perfumed Water 12 ounces; mix the Tincture of Benzoin with the Cologne, and having mixed the Water and Glycerin arrange a funnel in such a manner that the latter mixture will fall drop by drop into the former, by which process little or no precipita tion of the r esinous ma tt er is form ed, but a fine, smooth, milky preparation is produced. This is much used as a was h for th e comp lexion. Tinctu r e of Myr r h, or Tinctu r e of Tolu, ma y be used inst ead of Tinctu re of Benzoin in t his pr epar at ion. 4 2 8 4 . G l y c e r i n L o t i o n s .—Quite a variety of preparations are sold as Glycerin Lotions, the most common being Rose Water and Glycerin, equal parts of each, mixed; or two parts of Rose Water to one of Glycerin. Lime Juice and Glycerin, usually made with equal parts of Lime Juice, Glycerin Rose Water, is also a favorite application for tan an d freckles, and is somet imes applied to the ha ir. Oth er Wat ers m ay be used instead of Rose Water; Cherry Laurel or Orange Flower Water, ma king fine prepar at ions. 4 2 8 5 . H a i r G l o s s .—Glycerin 12 ounces, Cologne 4 ounces. Mix them. Ha ir Gloss m ay a lso be ma de with Glycerin a nd Rose Wat er, or Or an ge Flower Water , mixed equa l part s by mea sur e.
L I P S AL VE S A N D C O S M E T I C S .
Lip Salves are used for softening the lips, preventing them from cracking, curing sores, etc., and are sometimes employed to impart a, color to t hem . The following form ula s will suffice. Lip Sa lves a r e u su ally put up in s ma ll met al, glass or porcelain boxes. 4 2 8 6 . L i p S a l v e .—Oil of Sweet Almond 4 ounces, White Wax, Sper ma ceti, each, 1 oun ce, Ess ent ial Oil of Almonds, Oil of Bay Leaves, each, 15 drops. Melt t he Wax an d Sperm aceti together , add th e Almond Oil an d while cooling t he P erfum ing Oils, and s tir cons ta nt ly un til cold. 4 28 7 L i p S a l v e .—The foregoing preparation is liable to deteriorate by age, this one will keep indefinat ely an d is to be preferr ed. Petr olatu m 8 ounces. White Wax or Paraffin 1 1 / 2 ounce, Tannin 1 drachm, Oil of Lavender, Oil of Bergamot, each,1 drachm, Oil of Rose Geranium 2 Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 25 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
drachms. Melt the Petrolatum and wax together and add the Tannin; while cooling, a dd t h e oils an d st ir u nt il cold. 4 28 8. C o r a l L i p S a l v e .—This may be made by adding to either of the for egoing for mu las, 10 gra ins of Car min e for each oun ce of th e lip salve. It is best reduced to a fine powder in a mort ar an d th en r ubbed with a small portion of the salve, to a smooth mass, the remainder being gradu ally mixed with it.
N AI L C O S M E T I C S .
Powder and ointment for the nails is sometimes called for as toilet prepar at ions, an d ma y readily be made by druggists. 4 2 8 9 . N a i l o r M a n i c u r e P o w d e r .— This is for polishing, smoothing and cleaning the nails. Pumice Stone, in powder, 8 ounces. Powdered French Chalk 2 ounces, Carmine No. 40, in powder, 1 drachm, Bulk Per fum e, Rose or Violet 1 / 2 ounce. 4 29 0. N a i l o r M a n i c u r e S a l v e .—This is for s often ing th e na ils, cur ing ha ng n ails, etc. Pet rolat um 1 oun ce, Cast ile Soap, in powder, 1 dra chm . Oil of Bergamot 10 drops, or other more expensive perfuming Oils if desired. Mix them thoroughly. This is to be applied at night and the fingers covered with gloves. P E R F U ME S F O R T H E H A ND KE R C H I E F .
Handkerchief Extracts, or "Perfumes" as they are popularly called, are kept by nearly all druggists and constitute quite an important part of th eir tr ade. It will be inexpedient in th is volume t o give anyth ing but a brief outline of the manner of making them, and a very few formulas for th e more popular odors . They ar e ma de by but few dru ggists, — not because they are difficult to make, but because it is difficult and expensive to obtain the material requisite to manufacture them. The following ar e t he extra cts, essen ces, etc., necessa ry t o be made an d k ept on hand for the manufacture of perfumes. The processes are adapted to the conveniences always at hand. Perfume Laboratories are supplied with ma chiner y for t he pur pose. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 26 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
CL ASS A. E x t r a c t s of F l ow e r s fr o m P o m a d e s .
The Pomades used for making these Extracts are prepared by Enfleurage (see Part III), and may be obtained of perfumers and NewYor k jobbers . They cost fr om $2.00 t o $2.50 per pound , some of th em, a s Violet, cost ing m uch more. 4 2 9 1 . T o m a k e T r i p l e E x t r a c t s f r o m P o m a d e s .—First . Take equal parts, by weight, of the required Pomade and the strongest Cologne Spirit (Deodorized Alcohol). Divide the Pomade into three equal parts, an d pu t one pa rt (one-thir d) of the P oma de an d a ll of th e Cologne Spirit in a glass or copper jar that will hold double the quantity, and can be stopped air-tight. (An ordinary glass fruit jar is just the thing for small quantities.)
Put the jar in a water-bath, and keep at only a moderate heat (just sufficient to keep the Pomade melted) for three or four days, agitating frequently, then remove from the water-bath, cool, and pour the liquid extract from the Pomade. This product may be termed the Single Extract. Second . Take another part (one-third) of the fresh Pomade, and
macerate it in the same manner as before, with the Extract which has been obtained from the first maceration. This product may be termed th e Double Extra ct. T h i r d . Take th e rema ining th ird of the fresh Poma de, an d ma cerat e it
in the same manner as before, with the product of the previous macerations. When this maceration is completed, surround Pomade and Extract with ice, that all particles congealed. When thoroughly cold, pour off th rough a litt le cott on wool int o bott les, an d k eep
the jar containing the of fatty matter may be the Extract, straining closely stopped.
This constitutes the Triple Extract, and is the finest and strongest Extr act tha t can be obtained. The Poma de tha t r emains a fter t he Extr act has been pour ed off ma y be Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 27 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
again treated in a similar manner with Fresh Cologne Spirit, and the product will be a very fine Extr act, but not a s st rong as t he firs t. It will, perh aps , about corr espond t o th e Single Extr act, which m ay be used for an oth er ba tch, or for ma king Colognes or chea p P erfumes. After th e Pomade h as been th us s uccessively tr eat ed, it is called Washed Pomade, and is very good for making Cosmetics and Pomades for the hair. The following list em bra ces th e Extr acts ma de in t he m an ner described, from Pomades rea dily obta inable in t he m ar ket. 4 29 2. T r i p l e E x t r a c t C a s s i e o r Ac a c i a .—Fr om Ca ssie Poma de. 4293. T r i p l e E x t r a c t J a s m i n e .— Fr om J asm ine Poma de. 4294. Triple Pomade.
Extract
Orange
F l o w e r s .—From
Orange Flower
4 29 5. T r i p l e E x t r a c t R o s e .— Fr om Rose P oma de. 4 29 6. T r i p l e E x t r a c t T u b e r o s e .—Fr om Tuberose Pomade. 4 29 7. T r i p l e E x t r a c t V io l e t .— Fr om Violet P om ad e.
Others may be made in t he same man ner. The Extracts as thus prepared, are used only for combinations. They require something to give them permanence before putting up for sale, an d Ha ndkerchief Extr acts of the sam e na me cont ain su ch additions. CLASS B. E s s e n c e s f r o m E s s e n t i a l O ils .
These a re simply solutions of the best qua lity of Ott os or E ssent ial Oils, in t he s t r ongest Cologne Sp irit (deodorized Alcoh ol). They are chiefly used in combining with other perfumes, and they should be kept on h an d, prepared in sm all qua nt ities ready for use. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 28 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 29 8. E s s e n c e A lm o n d .—
Oil of Bit t er Almon ds, Cologn e Spir it ,
1 pa r t, 9 pa r t s.
4 29 9. E s s e n c e B e r g a m o t .-
Oil of Ber ga m ot , Cologn e Spir it ,
1 pa r t , 9 pa r t s.
4 30 0. E s s e n c e C a s s i a .—
Oil of Ca ssia , Cologn e Spir it ,
1 pa r t , 9 pa r t s.
4 30 1. E s s e n c e C l o v e s .—
Oil of Cloves, Cologn e Spir it ,
1 pa r t , 15 pa n s.
4 30 2. E s s e n c e L a v e n d e r .—
Oil of L a ven d er , E n glis h , Cologn e Spir it ,
1 part, 9 pa r t s.
4 30 3. E s s e n c e L e m o n .—
Oil of Lem on , Cologn e Spir it ,
1 pa r t , 9 pa n s.
4 30 4. E s s e n c e L e m o n -g r a s s o r Ve r b e n a .— Oil of Lemon-gra ss, Cologne Spir it,
1 pa r t, 15 par ts.
4 30 5. E s s e n c e N e r o l i .—
Oil of N er oli (Biga r a de), Cologn e Spir it ,
4 30 6. E s s e n c e O r a n g e .—
Oil of Or a n ge P eel, Cologn e Spir it ,
4 30 7. E s s e n c e P a t c h o u l y .—
Oil of P a t ch ou ly, Cologn e Spir it ,
4 30 8. E s s e n c e R o s e .—
Oil of Rose (best Kissan lik) 1 par t, Cologn e Spir it , 60 pa r t s.
4 30 9. E s s e n c e R o s e G e r a n i u m .—Oil Rose Ger a n iu m , Cologn e Spir it , 4 31 0. E s s e n c e R o s e m a r y .—
Oil of Rosem a r y, Cologn e Spir it ,
1 p a r t, 15 pa r t s. 1 pa r t , 9 pa r t s. 1 pa r t , 20 pa r t s.
1 pa r t, 20 pa r t s. 1 pa r t , 9 pa r t s.
Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 29 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 31 1. E s s e n c e S a n t a l .—
Oil Sa nt alwood (t ru e), Cologn e Spir it ,
4 31 2. E s s e n c e Yl a n g Yl a n g .— Oil Yla n g Yla n g, Cologn e Spir it ,
1 pa rt , 20 pa r t s. 1 pa r t , 60 pa r t s.
CLASS C. E x t r a c t s or T i n c t u r e s fr o m O d o r o u s S u b s t a n c e s.
These are E xtra cts or Tinctu res of Odorous Substa nces th at ar e used in Perfumes, chiefly to give permanence to the more volatile odors. They should be kept on hand ready to combine as desired. Most of them requ ire long ma cera tion t o extr act t heir odorous pr inciple. 4 31 3. E x t r a c t Am b e r g r i s .—
Am ber gr is, 1 pa r t , Cologn e Spir it , 60 pa r t s. Rub the Ambergris fine and macerate for thirty days in warm place, in a t ight ly st opped bott le. 4 31 4. E x t r a c t A n g e l ic a .—
An gelica Root (t r u e), 1 pa r t , Cologn e Spir it , 4 pa r t s. Reduce the Angelica Root to coarse powder, and macerate for thirty days with t he Cologne Spirit. Pr ess out an d filter . Civet , 1 pa r t , Cologn e Spir it , 60 pa r t s. Macera te for t hirt y days in a tightly stopped bott le in a war m place. 4 31 5. E x t r a c t C i v e t .—
4 31 6. E x t r a c t M u s k . -
F in e Gr a in Mu sk 2 pa r t s, Ca r bon a te of P ot assiu m, 1 pa r t, Cologn e Spir it , 120 pa r t s. Macera te for t hirt y days in a war m place in a tightly stopped bott le. 4317. E x t r a c t M u s k R o o t o r S u m b u l .— Su m bu l Root , 1 pa r t , Cologn e Spir it , 4 pa r t s.. Reduce th e Musk Root t o a coar se powder, an d ma cera te for t hirt y days.. Express a nd filter.
Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 30 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 31 8. E x t r a c t M u s k S e e d o r Am b r e t t e .— Mu sk Seed, Cologn e Spir it , Macera te for th irty days. Express a nd filter.
1 pa r t , 4 pa r t s.
4 31 9. E x t r a c t O r r i s o r Vi o le t .—Or r is Root , 3 pa r t s, Cologne Sp irit en ough t o m a ke 4 pa r t s. Reduce th e Orr is Root t o a coar se powder, an d. macerat e for t hirt y days with four parts of Cologne Spirit, then transfer to a percolator and percolate, adding fresh Spirit th rough th e percolator un til four par ts a re obta ined. This is mu ch u sed as a subst itut e for Violet.
Ton qu a Bea n s, Cologn e Spir it , Cut t he beans fine, cru sh, and ma cerat e for th irty days. 4 32 0. E x t r a c t T o n q u a . —
1 pa r t , 9 pa r t s.
4 32 1. E x t r a c t V a n i ll a .—
Va n illa , 1 pa r t , Cologn e Spir it , 9 pa r t s. Cut the Vanilla in fine pieces and rub with White Sand to a coarse powder, add the Cologne Spirit and macerate for thirty days in a warm place. 4 32 2. E x t r a c t Wi ld G i n g e r .— Wild Ginger (Can ad a Sn ak e Root ), 1 pa r t , Cologn e Spir it , 4 pa r t s. Reduce the dr ug to a coar se powder, and m acerat e for t hirt y days in t he Cologne Spirit. E xpress a nd filter .
Balsam Peru, Tolu, Benzoin, Styrax, and some other odoriferous bodies are also used in perfumes, but no special extract need be prepared of them, 1 part to 9 of Cologne Spirit being used to make an extract or tincture. The druggist will, of course, make up these preparations in such qua nt ities only as his t ra de deman ds, but it is best to have some of each kind on h an d. The Citrine Oils, Bergamot, Lemon and Orange, change quickly if not dissolved in spirit, and it will be found advantageous to dissolve these, Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 31 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
while fresh , in Cologne Spirit, an d keep t hem in t his wa y. ODORS OF FLOWERS, Or Ha nd kerchief Extracts.
Having now prepared the elements, as they may be termed, of Perfumery (Classes A, B and C), the druggist may prepare any combination that may be desired. The formulas which follow are for those which have the most sale on the market, and which time has demonstr at ed to be good a nd sala ble perfum es. There m ay be of cour se as m an y combinations of odors as th ere ar e sta rs in th e heavens: but it is not best t o encour age a mu ltiplicity of odors , but r at her a fam iliar ity with a few good ones, which will soon come to be favorites with the cust omer s of th e dru ggist. Since the introduction of bulk perfumes, many old and favorite odors ha ve gone out of use, an d ma ny new ones come in. No sta nda rd h as yet been established for many of the newly-named perfumes, and they are put up as the fancy of the fabricateur and the harmony of odors may direct. The formulae which follow make only the best grade or quality of perfumes. If the druggist desires to make cheaper goods, any of these may be diluted with Cologne Spirit to meet the desired cost. And in fact th is is mu ch bett er t ha n t o tr y to ma ke th em cheaper by using inferior material, because, although they may be weak, they will preserve their pu r ity a nd delica cy of odor. For oth er combina tions our r eader s ar e referr ed to more elaborat e work s on t he su bject, an d to the pu blish ed for mu las from r eliable sour ces. The essences, extracts, etc., which are directed to be used in the form ulas ar e th ose which ar e given in t he foregoing classes. 4 3 2 3 . E s s e n c e B o u q u e t — Esprit de Bouquet .—Essence Rose 8 parts, Essence Lemon 1 part, Essence Bergamot, Extract Orris, each, 4 parts. Extr act Ambergris, Essence Sant al, each, 1 par t. Mix. 4 3 2 4 . E x t r a c t F r a n g i p a n n i .—Essence Neroli, Essence Rose, each, 2 Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 32 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
parts. Essence Santal, Essence Cassia, Essence Rose Geranium, each, 1 part, Extract Musk, Extract Ambergris, Extract Civet, each, 1 part, Triple Extract Tuberose, Triple Extract Orange Flowers, each, 2 parts, Cologne Spir it 5 pa r t s. Mix. 4 32 5. E x t r a c t J o c k e y C l u b .— Triple Extract Rose, Triple Extract Tuberose, each, 4 parts. Triple Extract Cassie, Triple Extract Jasmine, each, 2 par ts. Extr act Orr is 3 part s, Extra ct Ambergris, Extr act Civet, each, 1 par t, Es sence Rose 2 par ts , Cologne Spirit 5 pa rt s. Mix. 4 3 2 6 . E x t r a c t L i l y o f t h e V a l l e y .— Triple Extract Tuberose 8 parts, Triple Extract Jasmine 1 part. Triple Extract Orange Flower, Triple Extr act Cassie 2 par ts, Triple Extra ct Rose 4 par ts. Ess ence Ylang Ylang 1 par t, E ssence Almonds 1 / 4 par t, Extr act Vanilla 3 pa rt s, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts. Mix. 4 3 2 7 . E x t r a c t M u s k . —Extr act Musk 10 part s, Extra ct Civet, Extr act Ambergris, Extract Musk Seed, each, 4 parts, Essence Rose 3 parts, Extract Wild Ginger 1 part, Cologne Spirit 5 to 20 parts, according to str ength desired. Mix. 4 3 2 8 . E x t r a c t N i g h t B l o o m i n g C e r e u s .— Triple Extract Rose 8 parts, Triple Extract Orange Flower 2 parts. Essence Neroli 2 parts. Extract Vanilla 2 parts, Extract Orris 3 parts. Extract Musk, Extract Civet, each, 1 par t. E ssen ce Almond 1 / 10 par t, Tinctu re Benzoin 1 / 20 part. Mix. 4 3 2 9 . E x t r a c t M a r y S t e w a r t .—Triple Extract Rose 3 parts. Triple Extract Cassie 1 part, Triple Extract Tuberose 2 parts, Essence Rose 3 parts, Essence Ylang Ylang 2 parts, Essence Rose Geranium 2 parts, Essence Orange 1 / 4 part, Extract Orris 2 parts, Extract Musk 1 part,
Extract Ambergris 1 part. Tincture Benzoin, Extract Tonqua, each, 1 / 4 par t, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts . Mix. 4 33 0. E x t r a c t I la n g -I la n g , or Y l a n g - Y l a n g .— E ssen ce Ylan g-Ylan g 8 parts, Essence Rose 2 parts, Extract Orris 2 parts. Triple Extract J asm ine, Extr act Musk, Essence Ora nge, each 1 par t. Mix. 4 3 3 1 . E x t r a c t O c e a n S p r a y , o r S e a B r e e z e .—Triple Extract Jasmine, Triple Extract Cassia, each, 4 parts, Triple Extract Rose 6 Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 33 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
parts. Essence Bergamot, Essence Lavender, each, 3 parts, Essence Santal 1 part. Extract Ambergris, Extract Civet, each, 1 part, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts. Mix. 4 3 3 2 . E x t r a c t P a t c h o u l y .— Ess ence Pat chouly 8 par ts. E ssence Rose, Es sence Rose Gera niu m, each, 2 pa r ts , Cologne Spirit 4 pa rt s. Mix. 4 33 3. E x t r a c t Wi l d O l i v e .—Triple Extr act Rose 8 par ts. Triple Extr act Jasmine, Triple Extract Violet, each, 4 parts. Triple Extract Cassie 2 par ts, Essen ce Rose 4 par ts, Essen ce Ylang Ylang 2 par ts. Extr act Musk, Es sen ce Amber gris, each, 1 / 2 par t, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts. Mix. 4 33 4. E x t r a c t Wh i t e R o s e .—Tr iple Extr act Rose, Triple Ext r act Violet (or E xtra ct Or ris), Ess ence Rose, each, 4 par ts, Triple Extra ct J asm ine 2 par ts. Essen ce Pa tchouly 1 par t. Mix. This may be dilut ed with 4 par ts of Cologne Sp irit if desir ed. 4 3 3 5 . E x t r a c t S t e p h a n o t i s .—Triple Extract Cassie, Triple Extract Tuberose, each, 4 par ts, Triple Extr act J as mine 2 par ts. Ess ence Rose 3 parts. Extract Musk, Extract Tonqua, Essence Neroli, each, 2 parts, Extract Orris 8 parts, Extract Wild Ginger r part. Tincture Benzoin 1 par t, Cologne Spirit 5 par ts . Mix. 4 3 3 6 . E x t r a c t U p p e r T e n .—Triple Extract Rose, Triple Extract Jasmine, Triple Extract Violet (or Extract Orris), each, 6 parts. Extract Musk 4 par ts , Cologne Spirit 6 pa rt s. Mix. 4 3 3 7 . E x t r a c t V i o l e t —Finest . —Triple E xtr act of Violet (fr om pomad e) 16 parts, Triple Extract Cassie 3 parts. Extract Orris 4 parts. Tincture Tolu 1 pa rt . Tinctu re Van illa 1 pa rt , Cologne Spirit 6 pa rt s. Mix. 4 3 3 8 . E x t r a c t V i o l e t —Good .—A good Extract ordinarily sold, may be made with Triple Extract Extract Rose, Triple Extract Tuberose, each, 1 par ts, E ssence Almonds 1 / 20 par t. Tinctu re Tolu 1 par ts. Mix,
of Violet, such as is Cassie 2 parts, Triple part, Extract Orris 6 pa rt , Cologne Spirit 3
The formulas given for handkerchief extracts are merely sample form ulas r epresentat ive of combinations th at ar e popular on th e ma rket. A great variety of other odors by various names are found, and may be Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 34 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
ma de by dr uggists by combinin g var ious ext r acts, essen ces, etc. C O L O G N E S AN D T O I L E T W AT E R S .
Colognes are fragrant compounds of much perm an ence of odor th an th e foregoing Extr acts.
less
strength
and
In addition to their legitimate use as toilet waters, they now take the place, to a large extent, of the cheaper grades of perfume that were formerly sold. As with t he H an dkerchief Extr acts, the combinations t ha t ma y be made are almost infinite, though but few have ever met with great public favor. The formulae which follow represent those most widely known and esteemed a s Colognes; but , as an y of th e Ha ndk erchief Extr acts ma y be made into Colognes, by following the "General Cologne Formula," the dru ggist ma y choose such as su its his fan cy, an d ha ve as lar ge a var iety as h e pleases. Colognes prepared from the Handkerchief Extracts may also be put up as cheap perfumes; the gra des tha t t he dru ggist wishes to prepare ma y be regulat ed by the am oun t of Cologne Spirit a dded. For second grade perfumes, taking Handkerchief Extract 1 part,
Cologne Spirit 1 pa rt . For third grade perfumes, taking Handkerchief Extract 1 part, Cologne Spirit 2 parts, and for Colognes, the following General Cologne Formula : Handkerchief Extract 1 part, Cologne Spirit 3 parts, Water
(distilled)1 q. s. Mix th e Extr act with t wo an d a h alf par ts of th e Cologne Spirit, and a dd Water gradually until, when shaken up, it remains, after standing a short time, just a trifle cloudy or milky, then add the balance of the Cologne Spirit, an d set awa y for a month or more before u sing. If Rose Water or Orange Flower Water is added instead of Distilled Water, the product will be finer. Rose Water ma y be used with a ll Extr acts, but Or an ge Flower Water is prefera ble in th ose compoun ds which cont ain Tr iple Extr act Ora nge Flowers or Essen ce Neroli. 1
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These Colognes may be named from the Extracts of which they are made, as White Rose Cologne, Marie Stewart Cologne, Upper Ten Cologne, etc., and the druggist may have no lack of cheaper grades of per fum es a nd Colognes by following t hes e dir ections. 4 33 9. F a r i n a C o lo g n e .— Es sence Bergam ot 10 par ts, E ssence Neroli 1 par t, Essence Lavender 2 par ts, Essen ce Lemon 2 par ts. Essen ce Oran ge 2 parts, Essence Cloves 1 part, Essence Cassia 1 part, Essence Rose 2 parts, Essence Rose Geranium 1 part, Triple Extract Jasmine 6 parts, Extract Angelica 1 part. Extract Orris 3 parts. Extract Musk Seed 2 parts. Essence Nutmeg 1 part. Essence Spearmint 2 parts. Essence Cedrat, 2 parts, Essence Thyme 1 / 2 part. Essence Cajeput 1 / 2 p a r t , Cologne Spirit 400 parts. Distilled Water 60 parts. Mix the Essences, etc., with the Cologne Spirit, and gradually add the Water. If it should remain milky after the addition of the Water, add enough Cologne Spirit t o clear . 4 34 0. F l o r a l C o l o g n e .— Ess ence Bergam ot 10 par ts, Es sence Cassia 4 parts, Essence Orange 6 parts, Essence Lavender 2 parts, Essence Lemon 6 par ts, Essence Sant al 2 pa rt s, Essence Neroli 2 par ts. Essence Rose Geranium 4 parts, Extract Orris 4 parts, Extract Tonqua 2 parts. Extract Ambergris 2 parts, Cologne Spirit 300 parts, Rose Water 50 par ts. Mix th e Essen ces, etc., with th e Cologne Spirit, an d gra dua lly add the Rose Water. If milky after standing, add enough Cologne Spirit to ma ke clear. 4 3 4 1 . G e r m a n C o l o g n e , 1 s t .—Essence Rose Geranium 8 parts, Essence Orange 10 parts, Essence Cassia 6 parts, Essence Bergamot 10 par ts, Es sence Cloves 1 par t. Ess ence Neroli 2 par ts. Ess ence Lavender 4 par ts, Essence Rose 4 par ts. Essence Verbena 2 par ts. Essence Sant al 4 parts. Extract Ambergris 1 part, Extract Musk i part. Tincture Cardamom 1 part, Cologne Spirit 300 parts, Rose Water 50 parts. Mix the Essences, etc., with the Cologne Spirit, add the Rose Water grad ua lly, an d t hen if milky, enough more Cologne Spirit t o make clear . 4 3 4 2 . G e r m a n C o l o g n e , 2 d .—Essence Bergamot 10 parts, Essence Lemon 6 parts, Essence Orange 6 parts, Essence Rosemary 6 parts, Essence Cassia 4 parts. Extract Orris 4 parts. Extract Tonqua 2 parts, Extr act Musk Seed 4 part s. Extra ct Angelica 1 pa rt . Extra ct Wild Ginger 2 parts, Tincture Benzoin 1 part, Cologne Spirit 400 parts, Rose Water Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 36 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
60 parts. Mix the Essences, etc., with the Cologne Spirit, add the Rose Water gradually, and if milky, enough more Cologne Spirit to make clear. 4 3 4 3 . L a v e n d e r C o l o g n e , o r W a t e r .— Essence Lavender 3 parts. Essence Lemon 2 parts. Essence Cassia 1 part, Essence Cloves 1 part, Essence Santal 1 part, Cologne Spirit 60 parts. Water 10 parts. Mix the Essences with the Cologne Spirit, add the Water gradually, and then en ou gh Cologne Sp irit t o clear , if m ilky. 4 3 4 4 . M u s k C o l o g n e .— Essence Bergamot 2 parts, Essence Lavender 2 parts. Essence Lemon 4 parts, Essence Neroli, 1 part, Extract Musk 4 parts. Cologne Spirit 60 parts. Rose Water 10 parts. Mix the Essences, etc., with the Cologne Spirit, add the Rose Water gradually, and then enough Cologne Spir it t o mak e clear , if milky. 4 3 4 5 . W h i t e R o s e C o l o g n e .— Oil Neroli Bigarade 1 drachm, Oil Neroli, Pet it gra in, 1 / 2 dra chm , Oil Bergamot 2 dr achms, Oil Pat chouly 1 drachm. Oil Rose 3 drachms, Extract Musk 2 ounces, Tincture Tolu 2 ounces, Cologne Spirit 7 pints. Rose Water 1 pint. Dissolve the Oils in th e Spirit, an d add th e Rose Wat er, let st an d 30 days, and filter. 4 3 4 6 . H o y t ' s G e r m a n C o l o g n e .— The following formula has been published as similar to Hoyt's German Cologne: Oil Bergamot 1 ounce. Oil Lemon 1 ounce. Oil Neroli 1 / 4 ounce, Oil Santal Wood 1 / 2 ounce, Cam phor 20 gra ins, Cologne Spirit 7 pint s, Rose Water 1 pint. Mix an d let st and a month , then filter. 4 34 7. F l o r i d a Wa t e r .— Oil of Lavender Flowers, E nglish, 6 fl.dr a chm s, Oil of Bergamot 2 fl.drachms, Oil of Lemon 1 1 / 2 fl.dr a chm , Oil of Cloves 20 minims, Oil of Cassia 10 minims, Oil of Orange 30 minims, Essence Rose 60 m inims , Es sen ce Ner oli 10 minim s, Cologne Sp irit 15 fl.oun ces. Mix them . 4348. Violet Water .— This may be made by diluting Extract of Violet with 4 pa rt s of Cologne Spirit. Other Toilet Wat ers m ay be ma de in th e same general man ner. 4 3 4 9 . O t h e r C o l o g n e s a n d T o i l e t W a t e r s may be made by the general formula. They may be made as the fancy of the maker may Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 37 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
select, and may be made stronger or weaker as may be desired, to corr espond with t he tr ade for which th ey ar e ma de. S AC H E T P O WD E R S .
A great variety of Sachet Powders may be made by adding to an Aromatic Base, composed of Ground Roots, Barks, Woods, Flowers, Leaves, etc., Bulk Perfumes or Essential Oils. A few formulas for the best selling powders are given here, and others may be made in the sam e genera l way. 4 3 5 0 . G e n e r a l B a s e f o r S a c h e t P o w d e r .—Orris Root, in coarse powder, 1 pound, Santal Wood, ground, 4 ounces. Vanilla Beans, ground or cut fine, 1 ounce. Rose Leaves, (flowers,) ground, 6 ounces. Extract Musk, 1 / 2 ounce. Extract Civet, 1 / 2 ounce. Mix them well togeth er. To mak e a ny var iety of Sachet Powder, a dd t o 8 oun ces of th is 1 ounce of the Bulk Perfume, of the kind desired and mix them thoroughly.
The following ar e for mu las for t hose most popula r : 4351 . F r a n g ip a n i S a c h e t .—Powdered Or r is 3 pound s. Gr oun d Vitivert 1 / 4 lb., Ground Santal 1 / 4 pound, Ground Vanilla Beans 1 / 4 pound, Ground Tonquin Beans 2 ounces. Oil Neroli 60 minims, Oil Santal 40 minims. Oil Bergam ot 60 minims , Oil Fr ench Geran ium 60 minims . Ott o Rose 30 minims, Extract Musk 1 ounce, Extract Civet 1 / 2 ounce. Mix well. 4 3 5 2 . H e l i o t r o p e S a c h e t .—Powdered Orris 1 / 2 pounds. Ground Rose Leaves 1 pound, Ground Vanilla Beans 6 ounces, Ground Tonquin Beans 4 ounces. Extract Musk 1 1 / 2 ounces, Extract Civet 1 / 2 ounce. Es sen tia l Oil of Almonds 7 m inims . Mix. 4 35 3. R o s e S a c h e t .—Powdered Or ris 1 / 2 pound. Ground Rose Leaves 1 1 / 2 lbs., Ground Santal Wood 4 ounces. Ground Patchouly 2 ounces,
Extract Civet 1 / 2 oun ce. Oil Fr ench Gera nium 30 minims, Ott o Rose 20 min ims. Mix. Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 38 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
4 35 4. J o c k e y C l u b S a c h e t .— Powdered Orris 3 pounds. Ground Santal Wood 1 / 2 pound, Oil Bergamot 1 ounce, Otto Rose 30 minims, Extr act Musk 2 oun ces. Extra ct Civet 1 ounce. 4355 . E s s e n c e B o u q u e t S a c h e t .—Powdered Orr is 4 pounds, Gr oun d Cassie Leaves (Flowers) 1 pound, Ground Rose Leaves (Flowers) 1 pound, Ground Vanilla Beans 3 ounces, Essence Bergamot 1 ounce, Ess ence Lemon 1 ounce. Oil Fr ench Geran ium 60 minims . Extra ct Mu sk 2 oun ces, Extr act Ambergris 1 / 2 ounce. 4 3 5 6 . Y l a n g - Y l a n g S a c h e t .—Ground Rose Leaves 1 pound. Ground Cassie Leaves 1 pound, Ground Pimento 1 / 4 pound, Ground Tonquin Beans 2 ounces. Ground Vanilla Beans 2 ounces. Powdered Orris 3 pounds, Oil Pimento 60 minims. Oil Bergamot 120 minims. Oil French Geranium 60 minims. Oil Ylang-Ylang 120 minims. Otto Rose 20 minims. Extract Musk 1 ounce, Extract Civet 1 / 2 ounce. Gum Benzoin (Groun d) 1 ou n ce. Mix. 4 3 5 7 . V i o l e t S a c h e t .—Powdered Orr is 3 poun ds. Ess ence Berga mot 30 minims. Essential Oil of Almonds 20 minims. Otto Rose 20 minims. Ext ra ct Mu sk 1 oun ce. Mix. 4358 . P o t P o u r i fo r R o s e J a r s .—Mixtures of Rose Leaves, etc., for filling Rose Jars are now considerably used. A favorite mixture for this pu r pose is as follows : Rose Lea ves (Flowers ) whole, 1 pound , Pa tchouly Leaves 4 ounces. Violet Flowers 4 ounces. Vanilla, cut fine, 1 / 2 ounce,
Cinnamon, in coarse powder, 1 / 2 ounce, Orris Root, in coarse powder, 4 ounces. Allspice, in coarse powder, 1 / 2 ounce. Cloves, in coarse powder, 1 / 2
ounce, Oil Bergamot 1 / 2 ounce, Musk Extract 1 ounce. Mix the Oil and Musk Extract thoroughly with the powdered drugs, and then with the Leaves, etc. By grinding the Leaves, etc., to a coarse powder, this may be used as a Sachet Powder; other combinations may be made in the same manner, by using other flowers, etc., in combination, as Lavender , Vitivert , etc.
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S M E L L I N G S AL T S O R P U N G E N T S .
The sale of Smelling Salts, or "Pungents," which, for a time was quite limited, has again revived. The following formulas make satisfactory preparations: 4 3 5 9 . P u n g e n t S m e l l i n g S a l t s .—If something fine is desired without regard to cost this is recommended: Carbonate of Ammonium, crushed into a coarse powder, 6 ounces, Sal Ammoniac, granulated, 1 ounce, Pure Potash (Caustic Potash), crushed fine, 2 ounces, Orris Root, in coarse powder, 4 ounces. Lemon Peel, in coarse powder, Rosmary Leaves, in coarse powder, Lavender Flowers, in coarse powder, each, 1 ounce, Cloves, Cinnamon, Calamus, each, in powder, 1 / 2 ounce, Oil of
Bergamot 1 / 2 ounce. Oil of Lemon 2 drachms, Extract of Musk or Civet 1 / 2
ounce. Stronger Water of Ammonia together.
1 / 2
ounce. Mix them well
4 3 6 0 . S m e l l i n g S a l t s .— A more common article may be made as follows: Carbonate of Ammonium, crushed to a coarse powder, 12 ounces. Powdered Orris 4 ounces, Powdered Cloves, Powdered Cassia, Powdered Calam us, ea ch, 1 ounce. Str onger Water of Amm onia 1 oun ce, Oil of Berga m ot 1 / 2 ou nce, Oil of Laven der 1 / 4 oun ce. Mix th em. 4 36 1. P r e s t o n 's S a l t s .—Carbonate of Ammonium, crushed, 4 ounces, str onger Water of Amm onia 1 / 4 oun ce, Oil of Cloves, Oil of Laven der , Oil of Berga mot, each 10 dr ops. Mix th em well togeth er. 4 3 6 2 . S m e l l i n g S a l t s .— Extemporaneous.—By crushing Carbonate of Ammonium, and adding to each ounce 30 drops of Stronger Water of Amm onia, a nd 30 drops of Bulk P erfume. 4 3 6 3 . V i n e g a r e t t e s .— Thes e a r e emp loyed like sm elling bott les an d for similar pur poses. Any inert Aromat ic subst an ce, as Or ris or a m ixtu re of Aromatic powdered drugs, may be saturated with Glacial Acetic Acid with which one-fourth the quantity of Bulk Perfume is mixed. The Toilet Vinegars mentioned further on, may also be employed for the sam e pur pose.
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T O I L E T S O AP S .
Toilet Soaps are seldom made except by experienced soap makers. The bases of Toilet Soaps are the common hard soaps referred to under the article on soaps, Part III. For making the finer grades of Toilet Soaps these are shaved, "milled" or ground, and mixed as may best be suited for the required product, and the perfuming Oils and ingredients work ed into them . The ma ss is th en slight ly moisten ed if necessa ry a nd ma de up int o th e required quan tity for cakes, an d pressed in a dye int o th e sha pe desired by means of a st rong press. The cheaper Toilet Soaps are made in the same manner as is directed for making Hard Soaps in the article referred to, but are more or less perfum ed with essent ial Oils or odorous su bsta nces An infinite variety of Toilet Soaps are supplied by soap makers, and dru ggists ma y themselves ma ke th em by secur ing the proper appliances. The perfumes for the soaps depend upon the price at which they are to sell, an d m ay be selected from t he form ulas alr eady given for bouqu ets of different kinds, and from the essential Oils suitable for the purpose. Glycerin in small quantities is frequently added to Toilet Soaps, and th ey ar e var iously colored with h ar mless ingredients t o suit t he ta ste or capr ice of th e ma nu factur er. As so great a variety of Toilet Soaps are required, and so few make th em, it would be inexpedient to give form ulas for th em h ere. T O I L E T VI N E G AR S .
A class of preparations for the toilet called Aromatic Vinegars have a limited sa le. They are chiefly used a fter ba th ing an d washin g th e han ds and face to impart a freshness to the skin, and for their agreeable odor. Th e following form u lae will su ffice 4 3 6 4 . A r o m a t i c V i n e g a r .—Glacial Acetic Acid 8 ounces, Cologne Spirit 4 ounces. Camphor, in small pieces, 1 ounce, Oil of Cloves 45 minims. Oil of Rosmary 30 minims, Oil of Bergamot, Oil of Cinnamon, Oil of Lavender, Oil of Pimento, Oil of Neroli, each, 15 minims. Mix, let sta nd u nt il th e ingredients a re dissolved, an d filter . Fen ner’s Complete Form ular y - Pa rt V - Toilet Pr epar at ions a nd P erfumes - Page 41 The Southwest School of Botanical Medicine http://www.swsbm.com
