NO. 38
NOTESFROMTHESHOP
$2.50
a
IDEOCABINETTDOLLCRADLE
+
BEDS BUlIK IN A ON FINISHING
PREP... FIRST
SERIES
Sawdust Mar/Apr,1985 -{Born rHIs IssuD-There'sa goodside and tie.es? Cut the dadoesbefore cutting the Edilor DonaldB. Pe.chke OesignOi€cto. T€d Krallc€k AssislanlEditofs St.ve Krohm.r Douglas L. Hlcks Ad Dircclor Kay iluldor Technicalllluslralors DavldKr€ylhg lrlke H€nry Subscription Manager SandyJ. Baum Subscdprion Assisranrs ChrlatolMhel Vlcky Fobhon JackleStroud Shtlsy Fellman Dl.n. Siarr CobputerOporalions Xsn Mlner Circulation Manager Jofi Flrls AdminislrativeAssistanl Cheryl Sooti BuildingMainlonanco tuchle Xrau3e
bad side to everything, includings'orkins on an issue of Woodi)rtll. As we were s'orkins on the desisnsfor the projectsin this issue,anumbe.oflittle problemskept poppmgup. Over and over again, I found myself beatinsmyhead asai.st the wau tryingto come up with solutions (techniques) to solve some of these problems. WetL, so much for the sood side. The bad side is that once solutio.s are found, we have a difficult iime aetlins all this inJomation in the issue. In th€ past, we solved this problem by shonins proj' €cts that involvedasimilar iechnique,and Fesented a full article on that lechnique. For the last coupleofissueswe've b€en trying somethins different. Most of the techniqu€s we've us€d are smaller really rnor€ like tips. And as much as we can,we've tded to includethesetips righi in the al1iclefor €achproject. I guesswhat I'm getting at hereis tbat ii may be worth r€adingthroush these a}.ticleseren if you'renot all that interestedin actually building the project. There are severalgoodtips tuckeda"'ay in this issue. OkaJ,I'll make il easier Here's a list of
1 . H a w d . o l a L t o h L u k ea t h r c L g l l uedsed no1'tise ard tenan laok pict re petect? Chezt a )nr]le. I used a filler plus on the endsofthe motise and ienonjoints on the bu.k b€d. This is a$hole lot easier WOOoSMITH0SSN0164-4114) is published than trying to cut a pefect nortise, and bihonlhly(January,March,May, July, Sep- th€n fitting it with a perfect tenon. See lember,Novembgr) by WoodsmilhPublishing Fisur€ 25 on page 15. DssMoines,|owa50312. Co.,2200GrandAvs., 2 . O k a u n o t t h o t t h e J i l L epr L s i s ; , t h e WOODSMITH is a regislered lrademarkol the moflise, hon d.atlou smoath it Jl1tsh uiith Woodsmilh Publishing Co. lr€ s?ldircefOn€ way is to sand 'til your lcopyrlghl1985by Woodsmith Publishing Co. blue in th€ face. (The ffller plug is end grain, which takes forever to sanddown.) Sub3crlpllom:One yoal (0 issues)$10,Two Anoiher way is to make a router jig that y6a€ (12issu6s)Sl8. Singlecopypice, $2.50 cleansor the end of ih€ fill€r plus in no (Canadaand Foreignradd $2 pff year.) time flat. See Fisure 26 on page 15. Chang€Ol Addr*s: Ploasebo suroro include J. Hotl) do !o( cut o hole i]1 plltrood bothyour old and new address. btthaut chi,ppiryand spliri"nng the edse Sscond cla$ posLgo pald at Oes l\,loinss, to pi€ces?Use a router insteadofa sabrc saw.I had to cut an accesshole (for wircs Posim.sier:Sendchangeol addressnotice, and cables) in ihe plywood back of the Fom 3579,to Woodsmilh Publishing Co.,2200 TV,^r'CRStand.The b€stway io makeihis GrandAve.,D6sMoines,lowa50312. li"e of cut is with a router - I used the rouier lable. See Fisure 16 on pag€ ll. BACKISSUES .1. Hou .lo uau c\t a uthole bunch of All backissuesol WoodsD[t are still available ,onises uithoxt act lllq harnq b cltt o Sendlor a bookleld€scribing lhe c€nlentsand uhaLeblnch aJ tnottises?Use a notched p cesol all backissues. spacer strip. Thai's how we sohed the problemofmounting 10 slais beiweenthe SAIIPLECOPIES cross rails of the h€adboardon rhe bunk Ityouhav€a ld€ndwhowouldliksloseea copy beds. See Figure 21 on page 14. oIWood3mllh,jusls6nd lhenameandaddrcss, 5. Hotr do Vor llet dadoes to li e up afd we'llsenda sample(at no cosr)pelfec t! (acnss fron eachother) o ttro
two pieces.That is, cut the dadoesin a double-widepiecenrst, uren rip lhe piece doM to fom the two pieceswith the dadoesperfectlvaligled. We did this to nake the uprishis for the bunk bed ladder See Fi$re 3 on page r9. !'tNrsHINc.This issuebegins a seriesof articles on finishing. This is a subject I have miried feelings about. Most of the gel time Ijust Nant to get it over with some finish on the project and b€ do.e wiih ii. But that has led to disappointmentmore ihan once,and I'!e foundmvselfre-frnishingaproject to gal the look I wanted (and the project deselved). IfI've leamedonethingabout finjshing, it's that I can't put off thinking about it until the end ofthe project. Finishins has to stadwhen you're buyingthe wood,and continuesvith eachstep in construction. That's ihe short version of th€ afticle prcparjng the thar begins on page 20 suface. We {ill be follos i.g up vith art; clesinthe coming'ssuesoneachstepofthe ffnishingprocess:filling, seaiing,staining, plus full articl€s on the chamctefisticsof vanish, shellac, polyurelhane, and Lac quer finishesand how io apply ih€m. Slax lHE SCHEDULE. Du ng the past few monthsse've addedquite a few nes sub scribers. With each new subscriber, it doesn'ttake longbeforese heartso fanil' iar questions:"Wltere'smy issue?W}ly is it ThoseNho hav€ beenNith us for awhile know that theissue alwaysgets there, but ii is lat€. Tbis problem staried r\t'o yeals ago when we s'ere goi.sthrough a bis expan' sionpedod. We slippedbehindscheduleto the poini ihar the issueswer€ goingoul almost six weeks past the normal rnajl date. We'!e been tri'ing to catch up eler
After two years of working s€vendaysa Ne€k, {'e're stillbehind. W}at we'!e found oursehesdoingispuLting more effod into ih€ quality ofeach issue.As a resuli, the qualitl has improvedbut the schedulehas not. Tosolvethisploblen, Ne've outlineda new schedulethat will (hopetully)alloN us to catch up one week with eachissue. But wewillnot sacrilicequality for tirne. You expect good issues,on tine. We sill continLreto producethe besLwe can, and trytogradually catchup so{e're backo. a nore nomal schedule. xExr Iss[E. Tbe Maydun€ issue of Woods,D//rNill be maileddud.gthe week ofJune 17, 1985. WOODSNflTH
TipS &' Tiqqhniqt'es
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PTANINOTHIN 5IOCK
Tousethe fixturc, markihe limit ofthe on the auxiliary fence and clamp Lheslop cut on oneendofthe $orkpiece.Wiihout b l o c k a i t h i s p o i n l . T h e w o r k p i e c ei s turningon the sa$! plac€the sorkpiece turned e.d-for-end and fit into the space
I enjoyed building the toy truck ( /ood s,ril, No. 35) Ior ny son. lt proved to be an interestins €xercise in resafing and hand planins thin stock. I found it helpful to build a bench hook to do tbe planing. I sbfted with an 8" x 18" piece of %" pllvood to use as a base.Then I drilled a ro{ of holes l" from one end to accept #8 x %' flathead "'ood scres's. Finally I cur a %" rabb€t on th€ oppositeside and end lo aitach a 2" lide by 8" long cleat. The benchhook r€sts over ihe edseofa b€ncho. fits into a vise. The screwscanbe backedout as ltrle as necessarytodog the thin stock. The real adlantase in this bench hook is that it can hold extr€mely thin stock for planing without feAr of the tight againstthe fenceand brnrg rhe arm plane nln being njcked by the dogs. forward until it has reached the mark. Lock lhe saw al lhis point, place the fixture over the arm in front ofiha sa\ and tighteDiL dolvn. Releasethe saw lock and ii'srcady iouse. Asit's pulledfoa'ard, t}e fixiure witl prevenr the saw from soins beyondthe indicatedpoint. The fi\ture canalsobe plac€db€hindthe sa\s In tbis positionand wilh adrill chuck attached ro the saw arbor, I use it as a depth stop for horizo.tal boring.
bets'een t}e auxiliary fence and the stop bLock.The block atloss me to hold the rvo.kpiec€lighi and keep ii from creeping toward the blade. Then the remaining piecesthat ar€ to be the samelength are brought in againstthe block and culAl FenaLd. 8rcMft|. Nontt C.itolint SANDINGON IHE ROU'ERIABLE Need a steadr-mount for a dmm sander and don't have a drill press?That was mJ problem and here's how my l4roods,iillr router table proved its s'orth again. I mounteda Porlaligr witb my eleclric drill and sanding drum under t)re table. There are two holes in lhe base of rhe PoftaLigr that accept 7i \ 1% flathead machinescre$s and wing nuts. I usedthc NOTE: PonAucN HflD up
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Jae Coughli)t LeagueCit!,'IbMs Sincclhescre$heailstend to dig ink, the enAgrain ofthe stock,I ahlals allo$ extfa len8th aDd cut off the Naste.
MITIR STOPAIOCK
One problem I've had when cutting mit€r joinls for a frane is settins the opposing G.r. C(,tpan|st:hi side pi€cesto bc the e\acl samelength. If Serctna Patk, MaNldj l they're roLthe same,th€re will be a gap in oneormore ofthejoints. Thetrick 's to use
STOPIHAT sAW Sincemdialarm sawscrLlon the top of th. Nood,the bladehas alendcncJ lo glab ihe irood and walk right through a cut- This causesa problen if you rvant to make a stoppedcut (suclras a blind dado).I i's h:rd lo stop the salv at the coreci point. I madeafi\ture that frts orerthe afmof a mdjal arm saw and stops lhe sa$ at a prcd€tcrminedpoint. It's madeout oftwo piecesofl/,l scrapthat are 2 Nide and cut to length to acconmodatethe indi! ual
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I cul a seciion out of the top piec€ to malch the shape of the arm. Then I attachedfoam s'eatherstlip tape {'/r") to the cutout to keep thc stop flom slipping and to pmtecl the alm. The fixtue is h€ld together \dth t$o lons cardage bolts, wash€rs, and wing nuts. A couplespinsofrhe $ing nuts and il's off or mo!'edinto position.
WooDSMTTH
I slart by fasteninganauxiliaryf€nceto the miLefgaugeand cul a miter on oneend
b3seofthe Potalign asa lenplale to mak the so€Nholes in the to! of the router table anil then d lLed and countersunk holesfor ih€ scrcws. The depth collal on the side r.odhas to be femoled and placed be1o. the yoke to hold the ddLl up under the table. Thecollal locatior can be pedodicallyadjustedif the drun lvears down in one spot. To use it, chuck the conect sanding drum in the ddll, plus it in, and push the constant-onbuLton. I find it's a comfolt able heisht for drum sandirs. B a bL k a Lenoir, N*otth Canli,t1 SENDIN YOUi IDTAS
ofall the tuane pieces.Then I makea stop blockwith lhe samemiter angl€cut on one erd. (If o.e of the scmp piecesfrom lhe inilial cuts is long enough,I use it as th€ stop block.) I also cul a ubbel on the mitered end to act as a sawdustrelief. Ne\t, I mark the final length of the pi€ca
llyo! d liketoshareawoodwoi(inglipvrilholher teadats ol Woodsnith, send your idea lo: Woodsnfth,rbs & Techniques, 2200G6nd Ave.,DesMoines,lowa50312. We paya minimum oI$10lorlips.and$15or (thala.e aeepled morelor specialtechniques lor plblicalion).Plgassglve a complelea(planalionol your idea.ll a sk€lchis need€d, s o n di l a o n g i w o l L d r aawn e wo n e .
Doll Cradle GOODNIGHIMRS.CABBAGE PATCH, WHEREVER YOUARE Usually tbe Christmas season€ndsin December. But this year, it seemsto be linser ins on a while longer. The most recent post-Christmas project has been a doll cradle for all the Cabbage Patch Kids "adopted"this year I desisned the doll cradle to b€ a fairly simple piece, using basic joinery techniqu€s, and requirins only a few hours to complete. I also used ponderosapine to keep the cradle light enoughthat €ven a two-year-old can cany it dound the house. The cradie consistsof five pieces:two sides and a bottom that are joi.ed to the headboard and footboard. The first step in building the cradle is to make a ternplate for rhe headboard and footboard. IXE ITMPIAIE To makethe template, I started by cutting a pieceof %"-thick Masonite 16" by 18v,", s€eFis. 1 Then I laid out the profile of the headboedfootboard. CENaERLINE, The key to laying out the profileis the vertical centerline,seeFie. 1. Once this line is draM, the rest of the profiie is centeredaround it. DrAcoNALs. First, the sides of the template are formed by drawing two 15" diagonals,seeFis. 1 To do this, connectapoint on the bottom edge, 37s"from the center line to a point on the side olthe template, 15'l'from the bottom edse, see r.is. 1. rop ARc. After the sides are drawn, I narked tbe top arc. To do this, first locate centerpoint A on the centerline,3%"ftom the botlom edge.Then dmw a r0%" mdius slc, see Fig. 2. ShopNote: I usedthe sirnplebeamcompass shom in Detail A to dlaw tbis arc. This compassis just a lhin strip of wood with a notchat oneendto hold apencil,and a v,6"hole at the pivot point for a brad. BorfmM ARc.The botLomec is dmwn the sameway: Locatecenterpoint B on the centerline r8" from the bottom edge and draw an r8"-f3diusarc, see lic. 2. RADrrrscoRNERs,Once these two arcs are drawn, locate the center points for the fou mdius come.s at the top oftbe template. These radii fo.m the top of the handleand the shoulders,see lig. 3. Afte! the center points are located, use a compassto dmw the radius comers on the template. Then to conplete Lhe shoulder, dlaw a tangent line connecting the two Next, follow the sameprocedulefor th€ four radii near the bottom ofthe template to fom th€ ends on the rocker - locate the center points and draw the radii.
ILIIDLE. At this point the template is almost complete.All that remains is th€ handle.To lay out the handle,first find the centerlin€ by dmwins a 9%" radius arc from centerpointA, seeFis.4. Then draw the%"-dia.end holeson tbis arc, 1%"from the centerline.Finally €onnectthe top and bottom edges on the lwo end holes with arcs, using pivot pojnt A. scRDwfiol,Es.Th€ template is compleie at this point, except for six holesthat arc us€d later to locate the screw holes for attachingthe }eadboad and footboud to the cmdle sides.To locate these hol€s on tle template, draw a line parallel to both sides of the template, %" from the edse, see lig. 4. Then mark th€ position ofthe holes along this line, 4y2", 8%", a lt)ya"
from the bottom edge. After these points arc locared,drill '/s" pilot holesin the templatesothe locationof rhe holescanbe transfened onio the headboard and footboard. cuT'rNc.The last stepbeforecutting out the profite is to bore the Hdius comers and handle holes with a drill bit or lrole sa$l Although this stepis optio.al - dependins on whetheryou hale the risht sizedbitsii's an excelleni way lo produce perfect radius comers, see Detail B. Once the €oners are drilled out, use €ither a band saw or sabre saw to cut out the remainjng profile. (To cut out the handle.I used a sabre sa$ and ha.d fil€d the edsessrnooth.)Then sandthe edsesof the template smoothwith a drum sander. wuHHotr s^w or Dn|u![ rFAvatasrE
sA8rEs^wTocur our rrcfllE
WOODSMTTH
The Tbmplate
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COIINECTIANGENT' OFTADII
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WOoDSMITH
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Nplt.t!.ot"tl,. prtpt po:"t"JolIt,. sr,o1Lad,,ohtl tl r tt.p e gl,t tod ;, ie; \g o sttolt rou poss. Then rcr r,f t I t,e t o agp\ts ol thc tyrd.ii at the tot oJ the tenpldte to lonr the shauldeN.
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FOOTBOARD SHOUIDERDETAIL
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\\rhenthe ternplaleis conuletcd, lhe ne\i ste! is to us. il to birikl th€ headboa (A) and footboafd (Il). Srart bI gluirg up l$o p a D e l so f r l i " p i n e , 1 5 \ t i d e b I l ? " l o n g . Aftef thrsc lanels arc pl ed and sanded smooth,d)a\L a lerti.al celterLin€on both panel,cto align lhe templalc. xr1DBotRD. To rrace lhc profile oDthe neadboard.positjon the ienr ate so the ccnttrlines on boih rieces line up. ThrD i l . l l c e t h e o u t l i noef t h e l e m p l a l cs. c F i g . ; . Withthe tcm!hle slill irrpositi{D,narkthe locationofthe io| and bottom scfew holcs with an 8 penDJfiDish nril, see l'iF. 6. FooTBo.\RD.A dightli difterelt pro ccdurc is rcquned to trace the profil. on t h e l b o t b o a r db c c a u s r i l s l ' 1 ' s h o t e r than the h.adboa . The fiNt stet is to posilioDthc lemllate on rhe footboardso rlrc (enlrr'linci Ijnc uD, aDdthe botton rdges lfc flush, see f ig. ?. Thentmcelhel,//.r,lt(//lrfthetenr ate. onll u! to the shoul.lersneaf the handlc. Wiih the tempLatestill in lhis posirioD. nrark the locationof lhe lo$er t\to screw holcs \ilh an S'penrt iinish najl. To complete the lattcn for lhc foot boafd. lifr u! the rcmplare and mark a poinr on lhc ceDierlnre01the pancl liltl, tuom ihe botton e.lge. sce l'ig. 8. Then fepositioDthe tfmphle so the top ol the handle is nLrsh$i.h this nark, aDd lhc cenlcflineson both fieces arc aLigned. No\r trace the top half of the pfoille (ilcludnrg the handle) do\LDro Nhere it intersects lhr pfofile of the lo$.r half at shoulder Sincelhe tcmfl{le has been sbiited doNn 1!/., the l" mdius al lhe shoukler's$ oD'thre up lrop$ll Nhcfc the ulpef and lorver profilcs mtet. To producea smooihcouerbel\teen thc two profiLes.use a contass to duw a nc\\' l" udiLN corner beti!een lhe shouklef line and the snle of the loolboard, see 1 ig. 9. oRrr,l,(!R\ERS. .\ft€r lhe trofiles halc beenlai.l our, drill all the radius corntrs. just like on ihe temllatc. scc l'ig. l{r. ( A g a i n .t h i s s t e p i s o l l i o n a l . ) Shop Note: To pfelent chilout on thc backsnle ofrhe Norktiece, slop diliingas soon $ ihe cenreryoint of lhe bit brcaks through the back sidc. TheDflip the \rork pieceoler and IlDishdilling fi om thc back s e, sce Sieps I an.l :l in Fig. r{r. Aitrr .he comers arr dtilled, the re maininslfoiile is cut out oDa bandsalr(of a ,qnbresa\r). and sandedsmooth usins t dunr sand.r sce fig. 11. l'heDusc a sabre sair to cllt ou! the han.llc. and smooththe edge,.with a fiLe.sre Fig. 12. cRADll slDas O n c e t h e h € a d b o a r da n d i o o t b o a r da r t c o n p L e t e dt,h e n e \ t s t e p i s l o c u t t h e cradlc sidesand lhc bottom. Glue up enough 'i pine lor lhr t\\'o sides(C). anil WOODSivtITH
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the boitom (D). Thcn plane panelssmoothand trim tlre by 18'lons. .lxcr,EDcRoor E.The side,cofthe cmdle are joined to the bottom \rjth a goole angled at 15', see Fia. 1;. (This s1.o.rve is cut at an .tngle so thc cradle snles\ilt be palrit€l Nith the sides of the headboard ard footboard,se. Fig. 18.) lbcui thegToov€.I use.la dadobtadeon thc table sr\ aDd nadc seleral trial crts until the \idth of the grooie nrat(hcd the thicknessof the bottonr. Thrn I adjusted ure angle of the blade to 1;', and ser the depthofcut to1,,i deep,seel.is. l j. WlreD the b]lt(l€is set, adiust rhe fcnce to cut a gloore i,;" frcn the bottom edg. of the
fOOTBOARD END
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WooDSIr{tTH
HEADAOAiD END
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Aiter the grooles afc cut, la! out thc prolile on the craiile sidesas shoNnur l is. lil. Thcn cut out the pfofile. .hillir)g the radrls corners iir.,qt.and saDdrhe pfofilc smooth\Lith a dNm srn{lpr: DRrLr-prr,oTHor,Es.To.join the sid.,sto t h e h c a d b o a l d a n . l f o o t b o a r d .f i r s t couDlerboreaDd drili pjlot holes nr rhc h e a d b o a r da n d i o o t b o a f d t o f # 6 \ 1 ! , ; " Noodscrc\s ard |/] buttons, see t'is. 16. l o d d l l t h e D i l o th o l e so Dr h r e n d so f t h c cmdle silcs. dfalr a liDo centefcd oD rhr endsand nurk tlre locarionof the botrom holes.see l'ig. lil. ]leasurc uD to thc roD holesusingexacth thc samespacirq as thr pilor holes on the hta(iboarit anii |oorbo:rr{].lnralh: drill ,;'pilot holes ,rLdeeD nr thc cnds of thc cmdle snl{'s (r r 3oT'IorI. When the pilor hoies arc drilled, dn-assemblt the sidcs to the hea(lboardand footboa to ileterrnincthe final $idth of rhc bortom. With lhcsc piccesscre$.d togethor tmce lhc outline of the angled gr.ooreson the he:rdboar.t a n d f o o t b o a r . l . T h c n d i s a s s . , m b l et h L , piecesalrd mea$n.ebct$eeD rhe glooles t0 deternnrc the firal \ idth of the bottoD Ro[\Dlx(; rjDGEs.Thc last ste! is trr round o\ er ail the ril,res.fthc headboard. lootboard,and the to! edgeson ttre sides. ( l u s e da r j r o u n do l e f b i t s e tr o a d e D t ho f ii,, io producea softenedbullDoseDrofite. Shop Note: As I Nas louring thc headboard:rndfootboad, erefl rimc I calnero oneofthe 'points oDthc profile \there the $nm dn.ectionmadearrabNpt change,the wood teDdedto chip our, sc€ l.iA. M. lb p r e \ e n rt h r : , \ o u m a ) \ a n t t u i t o t r o t i n A . t u s ts h o r tu f t h e l r , I r t . - , a r f u ! n . l o \ r r lhis areabt handsith nfile and sand|aper l s s E l r B r . ! .F i n a l l y , a l l t h e p i r c o s a r e rcadl ro assemble.Inset rhe borlom in th€ sides, but doDl glLreit in place. ODtv applr glue to th. endsof the cradle sides. then attach the headboardand iborboard Nith #8 r 11" lvoodscr€Ns. Finallv I fiDishedthe cradle wirh three coatsof ftng Oil Vanish, and coveredthe scre$ holcs Nith /;' bultons.
CRADI.E SIDEDETAIL I
MrcH oADow'orH
MATERIALS LIST Ov€bll Dinen3ionr l6"W x l4"H - t9% t r i e o d b o d i d( t ) {5 pie.. slucd-lp B F o o r 6 o . r d( l ) {5 pie.c slued,up c Sid6 (2) (2 pio.. slued-up D Bofom (l) (2 pie.e glvcd-up
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ponel) 3/arrs-r7 pdnel) %r3-t8 pon.l) 1/.\7Y.-1a poncl)
CUTTINGDIAGRAM
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TVA/CR Stand AND TAPES A STANDFORVIDEORECORDER both the front edgc and the back cdgc, sct l'ig. l. n r D r ) r . Ec R o o \ E . T h e n i d d l e groole is positioDedil1 tuomthe boltom cdgc. This gfoolc rls0 sropslri' lmr]l ihe tuonredge(to aligDNith rhe top gloole). Bul it e\tends a litlb clos.r to thr back edge (stoppilg r!' tiom the back e.lge)to alip Nith the cabiD.t's plJ-$ood back, scc I'ig. :1. rloTTi)rr(;Roor E. The botton groole is Nsitione.l lf, from thc botton cdge. This gfoolc srops THl5lOE5 %" ftom thc back edge,the sanre as the mirklle gloole. Ho\relerl To buil.l this stand. I slated b) sincethe bottom shelf.loesn't edge gluing rnough 5/1 stock have a tonl+rL'ofan cdging stti!, (lfii thick) to get t\o sidc this gfoorc stops L', farthef back panels (A) !'ith a roush size of ilran the tof t\ro gfoores, see 22" \ 2? . \\'lren ihe glue is dr]! Fig. 2. plane these panels smooth, and RoLTcRoovDs. Alter the stof rrin Ihem to final dimensioDsof linesarcnarked, clanp a fenceni 2 1 r , ' .\ : 1 1 ) ! , s e el ' i g . 1 . THE cRoovFis.'lb fofm lhc losition, sc. Fig. 1. Then fout a 7"-$ide gr.oo!e betweeD the brsic cabiDet,thrce pll!vood pass\tjth a plunge cut. pfobldns.) lines slatnrgeach the sides usiDg smes to aro are mounted to shehes seUaREENDS.Aftcr the glooles Nefe ln addilion, the $ooles for lhe shelves tonsuc rnd sroole joints. This mears thfce l"-side Sroo!€s arr routed in each a f e d o u b l e - s t o p t e-d s t o p l c d s h o [ o f routeil, I uscd a chiselto chop the eDdsof boththe tj ont and backedgcs.Bcfote rout- the $ooves ,cquareat the stop lines, see Shop Note: Nofm:llti the glain on lhe ing the aoolcs, I mnfkedthe stoplineson D e i a i l i n l i g . 1 . ( T h i s h c l p s a l i g n t h e shehes duiDg lhe glue'uf thase.) rhc cabinci side,.,see 1,iC- 1. sides of the cabnretNould ruD \edicallr -{s an oltton, a glass HOLESFORSrrFX,!r Nole: The gfoolcs sto!:ti different But I had to Nn ir lrodzontally on this cabinetbecauseihe pl$lood sheh€s hrrc points bccause of ihe alignnent of the shelf can also b€ added rbole the lideo to be gLu.d in glooles that run the /.rail' shchcs, the edgnrg strips, aDil thc plJ- recorder To do this drill three fL dia. o f i h e s o l i d 1 ' o o d s i d c s . ( S o l i d w o o . l \Loodback. :lb get an i.lea of $hrts going hoLes|a" deep in the cabnrctsnlesfor'pir! itJle shelf supports. see F ig. 1. erpands/contrac[ in r{idth, but not much on, fefer to Figxre 2. Ror'\D ELrcES. To complelethe sides, I ToP cRoovE. The groove ibr the top in length. Pl)irood does not erpand/ contraci at all. So, lhe pLlitood shelles shelf is positioned li down from the top mundeil thc corneN to a '.,"' mdius, and the cdges with a '11"founil orcr bii. have ro run the ler!'llr of the ,.olidNood edgeofrhe sjde panol,and stops l'/," tron It usedto be that errrrone $anted a cabinctfof stereo equipneDt. Now ii s !ideo equjpment.lnjust the pasl Joar the numbefofrcquests$ c !r had lof ihis tlpe of stand has been staggetng. T h e s t a n dN e c a m eu p $ i t h i s desigDedto holil r pofable tele lision, anil has a compartmeDt Fith slass doo$ lbf a vnlco fecofder:we alsoaddedadnitefto store Ideo casselles.
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WOODSMITH
T H ES H E L V I S Now lhc lhrec shehes can bc cul to rough size out of 3,1 oak-leneer flywood. (In ofdef to get all thf€e shehes out of a I r l p i e c eo f p l l N o o d I. h a d t o ( u i i h t botton shelf \ith the giain runDing li om tuont to back, see FiA. ll.) cLTSHELTES To srzE.Aftcr cutting the shelles to rough size, cut them to a fDal v i d t h o f 9 8 l / , T h e n c u t e a c hs h e l ft o t h e samelength as the corcsponilinA lloore in lhc cabinct sidcs, scc Fis. 3. I D G I N G5 I R I P 5 Bcforc mountingthe shel!es to thc cnbinet snles,i cul three edgrngstits (E) lbr the top and nidilLe shelvesfi on 5/.1stock, l vi wide and ro rough lcngth of 2$'. cRoo\'!rs.Thesestlil).sarejoined to the pl$ood shehes Nillr tomguean.i g1oole joints, sce Fis. 3. To do tlris, foul a '/, -wide groole h each sirip, r, do\rn from lhe top edge, see l ig. .1. Shop Note: I routed these glooles on lhr muter table so thc) \'oulil match the gaoolesin the cabiDetsides.This wal ihe tonguescan be cul exactlr_the sanreon all cdgcs of th€ shelvcs. v H : - I x ( r .N e \ ! , r o u t t \ f o ' t i , " - { i d c d r c orative veining giooles on the two stdps that go on tlre fronl edgesof the top and middlc shelfes, sce Fig. 5. Ror'\D ED(:Es.Tbento cornpleiethe rwo fionl st ps, round the tot an.l boltorn edges, see Fig. tj. As for the stdp thal goeson ihe backcdgeolthc top sbelf,cut a 'l/1,'\ vl rabbet for tbe plywood back, and rood orer the top edge, see fig. ll.
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TOPSHEIF
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$tlcn th. edging stips Nere complete,I \LentbackLos ork on ihe shehes.All thrcc shel!esha!etonguesonthe t\ro edgesthai join to tle cabi.et sides, refer to l is- 3. Thc top and middle shelv.s also hare tonguesfor the edging srlips. c t r r o \ c t E s . I c u t t h e s el o n g u e ,ocn i h c routertable, see I'ig. r-. Set the lenceand cut i\ro %"-eider-abbcts.Icaring a toDgue that fits snugly in the grooles. ShopNote: -{s the cuts for lhe tongues are set up, mirkcsure lhe ton!3lesare posi tionedso the top edgeoflhe edgingsitip is just slightlx aboye the suface of the ply\rood. Then the soliil Nood edsing can be sandeddovn flush lriih thc plr\rood. Aftef the ton$es are cut, dry assenble thc cabinetto mak. surc the shelvesline u p a ss h o l v ni r l . i g . 2 . I f a l l f i t s w e l l , g l u e and clamptheshehesto thecabiDetsides. Wll.n th€ slue is dry on this assemblr', cur the edging strips to fiml sizc (to fit tight benveenthe cabinetsides),and then glue and clampthem to the tongres on the
MIDDLE sHEtf@
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IHE DRAWER
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Afterthe cabinet; assexrhle.l,the duNtf c a nb e a d d e d H . e f e l s h o u l . l m c n t i oInf e $ things rbout the size of lhe (lfaNe'1when desi$ring this pfo.jccl. I acturlll staric(l mrkNiththcdimrns triofthedra\tcr nrg it $jde enough to holil thfce ro\ts of ridtotapes. Thcn I irLtihlhe cabiDetso thc a drairef nnh nrsd. \ridth accomnx,dated these mcrsurcme.ts. c L T t ' r D c E s l os l z E .T h i s 1 i | a \ e r i s c o ! slfLrctedusing l'!' stock fof all inur sides. . oslt . T h e Dl a t e ra f r l s c l t o D ti s a d . i e . lT ri! thc lieces for the iioDt. bacliard sides to n cornnron\i{lth of 1!'1j ,see l iC. !. T h e nc u t t h e s i d e s( ( i l t o a l t D g t ho f 1 5 . Thc clitical measurcmcnl is the length of the tiont and brck l)ieces{1 1. }ieasure the disranc bcnreen the cabincl s es and s u b r f r c t l " I o r t h e . l f a \ e f s l i ( l e ! .( T h e dm(er sli.tesI useil fcqLrirea li!'spa.c on e a c hs i d e . )T h e ni u b n a d t h e t h i c l m r s so f t h e d r a $ r r ' s l w o s i . t ef i e c e sl l ' t o t r l ) , a D d ddd L" lol the lL lorg tongLrrs .rn the endsol the tiont an(l blclt t)i(es. r(n\c&\: Aikr lhe ftur pi€ccs at cLrl t o s i z r , t h e l l e j o i n c ( l s i l h l o D g u ea r d (hrlo i.Drts. lb cul lhcs{,ionrts, ilfst cut f. \r.le da(locs on ihe eD{lsof lhc s e !icc.s. s.r the I\!Dt.nd Br(k Comef Ijrraih nr l ig. !. Thcn (ur mbbets oDthe e D d so f t h . i l o r l a r d b a c kp i . c c s ,1 4 \ r l g toDgncsthar llt !he (ladors. (inoovri r'olr lroTTorl. Allcf the jonrt culs are comllctc. cLrl a goote l'l ffom the bottoD cdgc ofeach pieccfor lht !l\" rnvrDrxrs.Also. cur 1'-!ride dadors on ihe insidcfacts ofthetioDt and brck pieces forthc lNo di!i.ters (I'I). Dr\'assemlte the dfaNer to gel the mensufementsfor lht di! ers, and cut th€m lo sizr to lit Detitc rne gioores. ,lssrinIBr-r:Beforc firrrl rssembltr rldll si\ couDtersunk pik,t holesnr tnc (Iru$cl froDt fof lhr scfeits that hol(l lht thlse f r o n l t o t h e d r a \ t e t ls c . l _ i s . 1 1 . 1 h e ! t h e drurvercaDbe giued an(lclnmF.l togetner r\r,sE FRo\T. \o$ the j:lse fronl (J) js addcd. Thj" tuonr is cut lo fough leDgth fion 1,1 stock, rboLrl I loDger than thc o | e n i n g i Dl h c c r b i n e t .l h e n r i ! i l l o s i ( l t h to cqurl thc distancefrom rhc top oi the bot|om shell to thc bollttn of the edging stlip on the nidille sheli less r'. iorcletrance,rcfer to t_ig. 1il. Elr(J\csTRIr'.-ie\t. cul lhc tdgrDgstrif (E) rhrr Foes on thc boltonr edge of thc irlse nont. This slr-i! is cu! lL \tidc fronr 5 i 1 s t o c k ,s c e l ' i g . 1 0 . ' I h e nr o u l t q o ! , " lciDing cuts on the face siilr. aDdthe top ,ind bottom rdscs are huD.le.l with a r,i fould o\ef bir. reier to Figs. t .].d 6. Aflcf lhe nol.ling cLrlsrfe trade on this piece,glue an.iclampit t. the bottom tdg€ ol rhe {has cr l'r'oDt.WhcD the slue is dr}'. cur thr dmwer frut lo ilnal length to lit WOODSIvIITH
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betneen the cabinrt siiles. less a toral of DR1$ERsLrDEs.Eelbre moLrntingthe falseffoDl to the dm\rcr fiNt nount rhc drawelslnles, seel ig. 13.Thenattach the false tuont to thc dFNer Nith No. li x 1
CUEAWAY VIEWfROMBAC(
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rH. GLA55 DOORS Il Iou hale a lidco rccorder sith a $ife lcss rcmote cono.ol.onh slass dooN rlill allo$ thc remore contfol to opemte irhik' the doorsarc closed-Io determinethe size of the glassfor the ilooF, first orrlcr and mount the hinges(seeSoufccs,page2l) to relj4 the cleafances. llount the hingesto the cabinei s . so the\"fc set back y;' nom the face of the edging strip and r," above ihc shclf, see Detail in I ig. U. Then hale the glasscut
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roLcH L.\TCH.To coDrplctrth€ doofs. I mouDteda doublc mapetic touch iatch. This is a cleler pieccof hardNare.hrt let s Iou olcn aDd close ihe doors \rithoLri a handle. sce Sources.pg. :1. In ordef to mount the latch. glue a spacefblockto the u n d c f s i d eo f i h e t o p s h c l i s e e f i s . 1 ? . Ther scfe\ the touch latch to this block. IHE BACK NorDralll $hen buil.lnrg a crbinet. one of the last steps ls cuttiDg the brcl! to size. Allhoughthat's tr'ucwith this cabiDet, there s one otherstep fof this back cut tnrgan acccssholeto fted \\ n.s and cablcs to the lideo rccofder ctT To srzE Stut bI cuiting the f," r\alood back (K) ro ilt the back of thc cabnret,see['ig. 15-Thenthe acccssholeis cut for the Nires. To do this, mark the boundrdcs ofthe accelshole so it s in Iinc Nith ihe brck of the lnleo fccorder: To cut this hob. I stated bI d nrg r! -tiia. hol€s at each corDerllh comllete the holr.. sabfesaN coLrlilbc use(|.bLilrh. edges rroukl come ou! pfrrtt splinrefed I n s t e a d I. c u t i t o u t o Dt h e f o u r r r r a b l e . (A routrr \ritlr ri sn.aighrbit trodu(cs a snooth. cleal cut on llr1lood.) Aiijust rhe ience oD the routel table so rhe bir iust barcll skimsthe edAeofthc li' dia. cofncr hole. see lletail in lig. 16. When the ience is scl. lilt up thr ply irood brck. turD on lhe four€rr aDdsio$l! l l u n g e t h c p l ! \ o o d b a c ko n t ot h e b i t a n d fout to the othcf comer hole. Repeat this procedure1brall foLDsi{lest., gei an access hole $ilh lerfecill smooth edAes. WheDthc rccesshole is com!lete. screN the back in placr itith No. {l \ l'L irood, scrc$s. I also mountcd fou 2 slrnrlcas teN to the lottonr shell FI\ISHI\{;. To finish the cabilrcr, I gare all suffaccsa tinal sandinq \ith tE0 r1-it sandpapcrand then applicil tNo conti oi
WooDs\flTH
CUTTINGDIAGRA'\' A
MATCRIALS LISI Ov.Efl Dimentionr,2l%"h x 29'A"|| /21% A A B c D E F G H I J (
sidB i2) I o p s A . f f( r ) Middl. s$efr (t) Borr.h sh.lf (r) E d g i n gs r r i p 5( 4 ) Drcvet hn s.
1 1 1 6 r 2 1 r .- 2 1 % a/.tra,A-7a'/. v. x 191/2-2aw t/4, i9'/. - 2a'/. t1l6'11/.-27!. '/ax41/2-26'/. rar4'/z-rs 1/2x4- t3Ya y.x13v.-26t,/. \A,l9t
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A
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Kid's SingleBed THISONE IS A REALSLEEPER As soonas I finishedbuiidinglhe bunk bed sho\I. on the cover.rLegatheredtogether som€ of lhe lt',ods,'ill kids and asked them for an eripet opinion.The reaciion was umnimous e.resopened$ith deligh! a! the sight of lvhal looked like a junsle nn mther rhan a placeto sleep. In fact, Katie Oed's three-year-old)was haling so nuch fun explodng lhe heights ofthe top bunk, Urat when it was tine to go she exclaimed, 'No, I want to stal - I'll lake a nap on this beii, okay?" Ted'sjair dropped,and he decid€dthe bed was !eo(h any amount of time
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The sinslebcd shownat righl is designcdso it can be used alone, or lwo ofthem can be sta.ked to fom a bunk bed. WtrctherJoulc buikling one bed oI two, the con' struction procedure starts out IHT UPIIGHIS I slarted by cutting the uprights for the headboardand footboard oui of 5i4 oak (lhd'thick actual). The tlvo upishts (A) for the headboardare 1 \i'i.le by 34' Lo.s, and lhe uprighls (B) for the footburd are 1" wide bJ 28" high, see Fig. 1. illoRrrslrs.After the updghts are cut ro size,through moftisesarccutforihe cross rails.Thesemodisesare madeby ddllinsa series of v,-dia. holes. cenrered on the width of the updghts, see Fig. 2. To form t)re bottom modis€s on ali four uprights, mark a '/a-dia. hole centered 10% up from the botlom end of the up dghl, seeFig. 1. Then marka secondhole cenleredll[" up fion ihe first. Drill thesetwo holesand continueNith a series of overlapping holes to form thc moftise, sce Fig. 2. (I useda Forstner bit here becauseit Fill drill oyerlappinsholes sithour slidjng off course.) For the top mortises, measurcup 24,/," on rhe headboardupright (A), and 22rl;'on the footboard updsht (B) for th€ first holes.Then driLlthe secondholesccntercil 3Y1up from the firsL holes, see !'ig. 1. c L E l \ r P M o R r r s E .T o c l e a n u p t h e cheeksofthe mortises, I clampeda guiile board alons the edse ofthe holesto gride thc chisel,see Fig. 1. To get tbe cleanest edse on both s es, I choppedonly half wax down, and then Ilipped lhc piec€olef to cleanout the morlise fron the backside. DRn-r-|lor-EsFoR srDEao-{RD.The last step on all four updghls is to drill tNo ,/. dia. holesneit to the boilom mortises,
I2
WooDbMlrH
see lig. 3. Although ihesc holes aren't used until later (to joir the bed s siile boards betlrecn the headboardaDd fooiboard,rcferto Fig.29). I drillcd themnow Fhile it's easl to get lo this area.
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us€5/40 %.:no.xt rEAtunEM Ts5HOWN ArEror 37? rt|,trrR€ss
T H ER A I I S Ne\t, the Lrplights ar€ joined together \ith t$o cro,csrails {C). Thcsc rails are;' Nide andthen length is determinedbJ"tNo lhings: I) thc wiilth ofthe mattress.nnd 2) the length of thc tcnons. It\ best to get a measufcmentffom the maltress ]oure goilg to use. (Thc Scafs tnattrcss I uscd is 37'! 1ride.) XleasLrfe the \ dth of the mattrrss anii add il" to get r h e l h a t l L l . r t o s h o u L d . rl e n g t h o f t h e mils, ,qeeF ig. 6. (Thc additional3" allo$s for tlre tNo side boa s plLrsa liltle clearancefor the math€ss-) Noi! add lhe lcngth of the tNo teDons. SjDcethe motises go all ihe Na) through thc upights. the tenonsNoukl normalit.be cut long enouglr to also go all thc \ral through. But I drcidcd to cut the telons t', short - to lenle room for a iiller plug. r c f c f t o F i A . l t . ( T h i s i sa r re a i I \ a l t o A e t a pefect frt 0n lhc .nd oI the tenor thai sho\s through the mo[ise.) c|]TTHERIIL. No$ the rail crn bc cut to f i I a l l e n g i h .s c eF i g . 5 . T h e n c u t t e D o n s o n both eDdsto tit snuglr in the mortises,see Fig. 7. (Rcfer to llbodsDr//r No. 26 for a step-b!-iilc! article on cutting n mortise
**r!ro" I
GROOVESIN RAIIS The slats \oul.l normah be mounted to the rails bt culting a lrhole se es of indi ridual mortises.But thefc's an easiers al: I uscda notchedstacersn iu ihat's set into a gloole on thc edge of the rnils. rcfcf to F i g . 2 1 .T h i s ,i n e f f r c t ,p f o d u c e a sse rsof nonN.s rre ea,ctNa)1 cLr cIf,_TERED cRun E. To mount this spacersoiu, elooles are cui centercd on the edgesof the ujls, see l,ig. 1:. To do this. set the fenceso the blad€is near thc .enier of the stock. and mnkc a pass, see S t e pI n r l i g . 1 ; 1 . Noit flip the rail alound so the otherface is againslthefenceandrnakernoth€r pass, seeStep2. ^\udgcthe fencea\Laylrom the bhdc anii fepeat this pfocess(Steps3 and .1)until the Srooveis rvide enoughfof the slats,se€ Fig. 1,1.
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cRo55 JEcIoN
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IHE SIAIS Beforc ioining the cross mils t., ihe up tghts, the slats harc lo be cut. To Dake ihc 10 slats (D) 1br the hcr.lboard, stat with flle pi.ccs oft,il stock 2 \LidebI 16 lorg, see fig. 8. The 10 slats (E) for ihe lootboafii can be cut tuom lhrec piecesof ' 5,.1stock : \ri(le bl 16 loDg. RHsl\\n sL.rTs.No$, resar! thesepi.ccs nr half(see |ig. 9). and lhcD set the lencc to rcsaNthehailed piecestoI final thickness of'rl, , sec Fjg. 10.
I
O ctossnal
FOOISOARD
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lgIE
LENGIH oI
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srRrP O sPAcEn
SPACIRsTRIP5 ]b completcthe headboardand lootbr|3rd. thc norchedspacefstils(F ) hale to becul
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NOUNOIDGIS AND ASSEMATE
NOTE:
_t]y*#2 DETAIL A
14
n.{RX D.\l)oES.]b mak. these notched strips. sla{ Nitlr a picce of 1,1 slock 2rlrl wide and tdnmcd to length to match the shoulderto-shoulder lensth of ihe cmss m i l s ( C ) .s e eI i g - 2 1 Nos mark tlre boLrndaes ofthe 9' $idt dadoesalong lhii piece. starling at .he centerand wofking toNards thc cnds. see l'ig. 1;. (\Iork liom lhe center out to get eveDspacingat ihe ends, no matlcr ho$ Nide fie nato ess is-) Aftcr m:rrkiDgthe position cL-r DADoBs. of all the dadoes.I started lo cul thcm. tJnfortLrna.e[ I iound that lhe $orkliece hadn leDdencyto slideai t he cut Nas bciig nade.:Ib pfelent this, I attachedaf.ncc.o the mitcr gauge. TheD clampedn stop to oDecnd and usedthe ! f.rce at the other cnd to defiDethc limits of ihe dado. sec t'ig. 16. Sho! Notc: Snrcerhe da(loesaft spaced equrlh ircm the ceDtcrouL.cut oDeoflhe cenier dadors firsr. then tliP thc born arouDilto cLrtthe dadoon the olher side oi ctr sl1cf,R sTRII's.l\rh€Dall thc drilots are .ut. ip this tiece to form the lbuf s p a c e r s n i l f ,s e el i g . r 7 . R i p e a c hs t l i f n ) thc width to lit $uglJ in ihe giooles crossrails. Then resa\r then to size(l'ig. 1l-{lso thr iop edgeoflhc stiitr is flushwith thc rdg€ of the uil. When thc sldps llt the gloor.s, sltrc then nr place.(A!o usnrgloo much glLte i l m i g h ts e e ! i n t o t h c h o r t i s e s . ) \ l ] c n the glueis {lf): rur the miltluough lhc sa$ t o t r i m l h c t o f s o f t h es P a c c f f l u s h w i r h t h e u i l , s e el i g . ? 0 .
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DETAILB
Thc last step befofe rsselnblingthe head boardandfoolboardisloroLtndihe corDers ard e.lgesof th. updghts and uils. RoLtr-D EDcEs.l iist, foun.l lhe c()Il'eF of lhe uprights to a !'! fi:tdilF. I used a q u a r t e r t on u r l i t h e n d i u s . s e eD e t a i l A i n l ig. :1. Ne\t, au the eilgcs afe founded \ilh a L roun{l olcf bil or the routef t3ble. see Drrail B il t'ig. 21. B e f o r r a s s e m b l r ,f i n i s n s a n d r l l . h e pi.ces especialll thc shls. ,\l,qo.screlt lhfended inserls in lhe lop holesnear the botioDrrail. fefef to fig. ?9. (See ll'dxl srrtl, No. 30 lor :] good techDnrucfor installiDginiets usnrg a dfill trfess.l issE$rBl-\: -\_o$ drr-.rsenble the up dghts aDd uils to gei the tinal lcnlah lof thc slats. Afterthe slatsafe cLrtlo length, m o u n t t h e mb e t \ t c e nl h e m o f t i s e so D t h c e(lgesof thr ruils. (Ilon t useanl glut hcre, just bl the slats noat in lhr mortises.l Thcn glue an.l clam! lhe notlise aDdtenon joiits (the updghls and tnils) togethct:
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As I mentionedearliert I cut the tenonson lhc crossrails li shoft lo allo\tlbrdecontile fillef plugsat ih€ cndsofthe moftises. (lt\ a lot easierto cut theseplugsto fit the mol1is. peffcct]I than il js to cut the tenon
MORIISE PLUG
ASsEMBIED MORTISE PLUG
To make these plugs, dp a pieceof oalr into three stdps, see l'ig. 29. Then I cut tr!o stlips of$dnut lo simulatethe endsof Nedses(lo make the joint looh like a $edsed noitise and tenon jojnt). Lrninatc thcsefi!e piecestogether and \rhen the glue is dr')t fesr\ thi-cpjece to match the \ridth ofthe nortise (L/:1.Thcn fip ir to siz. ro match the height of the nroftise, refer to F ig. 23. NoN here'swherc allthis $ork lals oft Round thc edg€sof lhis filler plug oD the router table Nith a ! roLuxloler bit, see Fig. 21. This will nrake a peffe( fit \rith the drilled end holesoi the mol'lise. ltoLNT PLLG.Cul off ,/"' long slices ol the lannrated siip |rndglue them ilro the mortises.Then thefe\ one mor. tick. To smoothlhc plug flush with the face .,f thc upright, cut a XlNonite basefor the muter and glue tso %"-thick llltsonite spacer pads to the ba-+, see l ig- 26. I'lount a % straight bir in the foutef and sel the detth to cut flush lviib lhc spacer pads.Noirthe endsoftheplugscaneasilybe rcuted flush sith the face ofthe uplights. THESIDEBOARDS AL this poiDtthe headboardand footboard afe c.rmplelc.All thafs neededaEthe,qide boa s (Gl thal tun the length ofthe bedThc s c boards are 5 rvide and cur to length so thcJ'r'c I" longer than the lergrh of the matness, see l'ig. 2?. DRILLHoLEs.After the side bo:udsare cut to size.holesarcdiLled at botheDdsfor the boll aDddowel pin that afe usedtojoin t h e n t o t h e h e a d b o a f da n d f o o t b o a r d . (Note: $/hen locatins these holes, $hal you \Lantis for thc holesin the sideboards to nratchup Nith ahc holcs alreadr'.i lled in the upights, reter to t'ig. :9.) DRn,LHoLEs.After iocatingihe centefpoints ofthese holeson the outsideface of thc side board, I drilled them bl starting Nith the couDterbofeon the top holeon th. nis . face,seeStep r in Fis. 28. Then flip rh. side boar.l oler and (hill I n. shank holc. using the ceDteryointrnarkedon the orl.st.l. face, scc Step 2. -{lso. drilt a stoppcd ['dia- bole lbr a doNel pnr on the outsidefacc, se€ Step ll. To completethe side boa , roLrndtlrree edges\dth a r']"round ov€r bit as sholvnin S t e p{ . ,rssErIBLr'.finall]. glue a l/tr' doNel in the hole in thc upight and tes! ihe as sembly of tbe side boards to the upright,q bI sc.e\ringa n,i' \ 1'1" heribeadbolt into the lhrcaded inseft, see l'ig. 29.
WOODSMITH
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'HI CLEAIS The Lastslcp oDthe sidc boardsisto mount a clcar (H) lo the bott.tn edge lo su|poft lhe nath essboardand mallress. rrIEcl,E.rr.This cleatis madebI ilping a picceof;A stock lLr'$ i.l€ and to length lo match thc side boa . Then D)ountthc cleats bI counterboing a ,t dia. holc. follo\rcd b) a',i,, dir. sh:nk holc (all the Nal-thfough),sc. Cro,qsSectionin l'is.30 Now clamplhe clealtothc side boardso its flush $iih the bottom edse and dfill tilor holes nr the sidc board. l'inall\', un' , nd d a m p t h e c L e aat ,p p l yg l u et o t h ee d g e a -{t lhis lr.riDi,the bcd is c.m .qssElrBr.r: Dhte. I Aaveit a fnralsandingandfinished it \tith two(oats oftuns oillamislr. \\her thc finishis drr', it sjust anutt.r ofbolrnrg thcsi{le boafdsto the upigh|s aDdpulting ihe lrattfersboa and maliress in Placc. IHE DRAWIR
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A f l c r t h e b e ( l\ a s d o n e ,I t h o u g h t i l $ o u l d be handl to add iNo Largt foll-out storagc TOPVIEW dmwers. These dfa$er! are il€sisned so tber (an be buill and added\henelerJou hale timc. Notel Thc dnlensions snen h e r ea r c f o f a d m w e f ( $ i t h 9 c a s l e F ) t h a t the sFce be_ fits aD opening l0'high tlreen the bolton edgc of the si.lc boav{l :tnd the floor see Fig. .11. lRo\TS. Start bJ (uttrng thc DRAIYER dra$er tuontsto size.Thc Nidth (heishl)of lhc draNer fronl is 7[. The lenglh is fiqured br measuiDg bet\Leenthe head board and footboard up ghts and sub_ rracrins a total of 'r". (This allows 'li berwee; ihe tNo d|aweN. and ri at each enil.) Then dir e this difftr€nce b."': lo set the lenr'1hof eachdlnNer $ont _ % MsoNrrE ]rHEsIDEa.Next. cut the dm$ef sidesto t a iridth of 7, scc lig- ll. lThelre v, cRos5sEclloN IL shoder than lhe top ofthe dmrver iioni l The length ofthe draNcf sidesis optional I cul th€m 20 long. l o I \ E n r . I a s s c m b l e dt h e s e d r a N e f s Nilh doletail loDgue and gtoole joinrs. (Thesejoints are easitr to cut than they s o u n d -S e e t h e s l t D - b y s t e ! a t l i c l e i n l t l $ : o o d s , r i l lN o . 3 1 . ) Do\'ttTiIL cR(xJvES.l'jfsl. sel up rourer rable Nith a rr" dotelail L,! .-l centered l from Lhe fencc, see Fig 3 1 . Then rout llrdeep dole.ail groorcs both erds of the draser hont. stoppnrg c a s r E R these grooves6'1" from the bottom edge, / | | PurE\ I see Fig. 31. I E : t l With the router table slill set L \!ati also rout doretail gmoves on s e faccs ol lhc dra\Ler sm€s il.a{er back, see Detail B nr lig. t3_ I T l)ovET.tll,roucLEs. After tht glooles are cut. adjust thc lenceon lhe rouleriable (bui don't changelhe hcight ofthe bii) to rout dolctail longucs on the snle pieces, see Fig. 32. Then lrim the to! end of $e
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toDgresto fit the stoppedgrooles in thc Aftefthe tongucsarc cut, drl assenble the si.lesto lhe tuont an(l measurelo gcl lhe linal l.ngth for the dfarver back. Cut the back to length and then cLrtdoletail ton$es on both ends to fil rhe glooles in cRoo\ E FoR Eorrou. FinallJ. $ritclr to a'li stmight bit to rout g}ooles li from the boltom edge of th€ drawer front and siilcs fof the Ll"'Masoniteboltom. H,l\DLD oi_ FRoIT. Before final assenrbl]',cotnpletethe dmwcr'ftont bJ cut tingout the handlepullon thetop edge.sec t'ig. ill. Then round lhc fouf corDeNoithe ilont to a le radius and rou|d thr edgcs N i t h a L 1 ' r o u n do Y e fb i t . c'\srFiRs.No\ the dra\rcf-scan be glued and clamted together -{fter thcll-c as sembled, I mounted fouf casLerslo ea(h dm$cr, see Fjg. ij7. SiDce lhe .lraNef bottom i!, onh %'thick, I aildcd 1/,"spacef lads an.l ihen nounted the crslers Nirh 'll nachine screlrs. see l ig. rl?.
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D R A W I NG U I D ER A I L 5 The guide slstem for these drawers is faifl) simplc: since the dra\reN are on c a s t e r s ,t h e g u i d c r a i l s j u s t a c t a s "bunpers to guide the dr?Nef as it s
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I cut Lheguide mils out of5/! stock l,i/i \ide and mounied them io Lhc bottom of ilre cleatson tlre side boalds, ,.eel'ig. 39. (Inslendofmounlins lhem pemanent\,, I used threaded ins€rls so theJ could be easih rcnroled ifthe bed lvastakenalart.) Posilion the middle guide ]lail so it's centefed on ihc l.ngth of the bed. 'fhen lositionthe tlto outsiderails so thclallo$ fof th. iridth of tlre dra\rer flus ti cleaf
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Bunk Bed STACK'EMUPFORTWICEAS MUCHSLEEP Ifyou want to make3 bunk bed, it'sjust a matter of buildins two single beds and stacking them. But lhai's not the whole The si.sle bed is desigred with a headboard that's 6" higher than the footboard. If you want to make t\ro b€ds to fonn a bunk bed, th€ lorver bed is built rvith tivo headboads(34"hish) and the top bed has two fooiboards(28" high). Normally bunk beds are stacked and held in place with a steel pin in the uprishts. This pin kerps the uprisht. lrom J i d i n s o f f - b u t i t d o e s ns s e L d ?tPh e u p per bed to the lower bed. tf rhe g1ly in the lo$er bed tries to kick his broth€r out of ihe upper bunk, the whole bed can come loose- much to the chasrin of the on€ in the lower bunk. xNocK-DowN f|lrlNG We thousht it would be nic€ to add a little safetyfeature here byjoinins the updghts wiilr a knock down fittins, seeFig I This litting consisisof a steel pin that screws intoaplasticinset on oneendand attaches to a cam collar at lhe other end. NoterThe p.ocedureand measurements we usedto mount this fitting vary a little Fom th€ instructionsthat camesith it. vourr cAM coLL{R, To mount tbis fittinq, lirst drill a l"-dia. hole on the inside fac; of the upper uprisht, see Fis. 1. (I used a Pofialigl and Forstner bit here ) This hole is centeredon the widtb of the upright and 1'l" up fron rhe bottom edge, see Fig. 2. It's also stopp€dr,/i'deep. HoLE roR srEEL PIN.Next, ddll a vs"-dia.holefor the steelpin in the bottom end 0flhe uprighr so it intercectsNith the
l"-dia. hole. Acain, I us€d a Pol1aligr io d ll this hole centered %" in from lhe tdide face, see Fig 1. Finally, drill another Hor,n ioR INSERT, :,/i'-dia. hole in the bottom upright for th€ plasticinsert. This hol€is alsocenteredon th€ width ofthe uprightand v,"infromthe inside face. (It must Lineup exactiy sith the hol€ in th€ botiom of the uppe tpright.) After this hole is drilled, tap ihe plastic insert in place. MoUNTFllrrNc. To mount the fitting, scres' the steel pin in the plastic inseft.
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Thenlowerthe holein tbetop upright oler tbesteeLpin(seeFis- 2), and puslrthecam collarin rhe l"-dia. hole.Use ascrewdriver to twis! the cam collar so it calchesthe head of the steel pin- (As the collar is tuned, the cam action pulls the steel pin tishi inside the collar.) Finalh, cover the holeswith ihe plastic capthat com€swiththe fitling, seeFig 2 IHI LADDER Nobunkbed is complete(orany fun) sith out a ladder The ladder t mad€ hookson the side rails of both beds. r,aDDER uPRIcHls,The upights (N) for ihe ladderare cut tsomapieceof5/4stock, 49" lons, see Fis. 3. In order to have ihe dadoesfor the rungs line up exacily,I cut this Diecedouble-widetobesinwith. (Wide eno;sh for two 2"-$ide updghts plus 1/.' for the kerfbetseen lhem and a litue for tdmning it up.) cuT DADoEs.To mount the rungs, cut four %"'deep dadoes across this piece. (Note: W})en setting up thes€ cuts, ch€ck the width olthe dado$iih the aciualstock tobeused for the runss. The rungs should fit tishi in the dado.) The first dado (at the boltom of the ladder) stads l'from lhe end The next three are spaced12" apalt, see Fig 3. colr|pr,ETEupRrcHTs.After lhe dadoes
WooDsMrrH
are cut, rip the NorkpiecedoNnrhe nriddte and tl.im it to produce tNo uDriqhts 2" rvidc. TheD found the corners t; A Lr, radius and round over the edgeswith a % round-oler bit on the router lable. THERr'\cs. Ne\t, the{ourrungs (O)are cut to size out of 1/l stock, 2,L" ri.ie bv 12lr'long. Sincethetop rungis positioDe{l f i g h t i r f l o n t o l t h e s r . l eb o : r r ,ol n t h r t o p h u i k . I n o t c h e do u r t h e b a c kc d s et n . , u \ i rcom for a hand,hokl. Dfill two 1" dja. holcs 8 apart and c e n t e r e d r , f r o m t h e b a c k e d A e ,s e e l'ig. 6. Then cut out the shaDeof the hand hold, roundins the back cone$ of this notch to a ,L' mdius. R{)rNDEDcts. l.inallll round the front and back edgesofall four.Nngs iritl a rr', round over bit. (Do not round the endsleale ih.n square.) lssErrsl,r'- Beiore nrul assembtl dritl two l"'dia. couDterborcsfollowedbr /1,i, shank holes on the outsideface ofthe up ights, ce.ter€d over the dado. aDd L1' tuomthe front and back cdges,sec Fiq. 5. Then place thc runss in the dadocsaDd clampihe Ladderrogethersopilot holescan b e d n l l e , l t h r u u g ht h e u l r ' i g h t \ d n d I n t o the en.l. of the runs:. A r t e r t h e p i l n r h o h s a r e ' t r i t ] t d ,a p p h . g l u et n t h e J a d o e sa r d \ r r e \ r h er r n s si r L place with No. 8 \ 1'l;' woodscrens,and cover the counterboresNith %' piugs. Hoolis. To attachthe laddertoihe bed, I made four hooks that hook over rhe side boards. lnst. r.ip four sD:cer bl.rcks to Nidth lo match thc thick;ess of rhe si,tp boarrl, aDd to a leneth of 3", see Fiq. ?. To mount the blocksto the ladder mark the posilionofthebottom blockssothe\rre 5 up h orn the bottom endsofthe uDiichts. Thcn to set thc position of rhe top block, measurcth€ distanceffom the rop edseof the bottom side boar.dto the top cdgeoittrc top sirleboald- llark off this samed;stance on ihe ia.lder upig|ts from the bottom block to rhe top block. Prc-drili the pilot holes on the spa&f b l o c k st o m a t c h t h e h o l e so n A , 1 , , r 6 mendins piate. Also mar.k aDd pre{l ll holesin the ladder's up ghts. Then gtuc and soeN tbc spacerblocksaDdrhc mendtrg plates to the laddert se. Fig. 7. G U A R DF A I L f ' o f s m a l l e rc h i l d r e ni t s a l s o a g o o d ideato adda suard rajl. The one I built is a pieceol ; l ( o e l , ; s i d r b \ ; 1 6 l o n g ,s e ef ' r s . 8 . i t . m u u n t e dt o t h ! b e . l $ i r h t $ . u r l dshts and t$o hooks (as or the ladder:). L'ut the uprights:l wide bt. lit,/j tongand glue and screN them to the guard rail. Then mount hooks th. sa the l:dder: cut the spacerblocks,pr..-dilt the piloi holes,ard rhenslue and scre\,th. spacerblocks and ,i1"\ tj mendinqDlates to Lheedse ofthe uDdshis. And th;i com, lletes the bunk beds.
WooDSMITH
IADDERUPRIGHTS 5/4srock (rr.
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Finishing:SurfacePrepgradq4 BEFORE YOU FINISH,THISIS WHERETO START I have to admit that lhere are certain parts of woodwo*ing that I e4joy more than others. Getting a tenon to fit so it slides into a nortise pedectly is definitely on the posiiive Bide.So is putting on and rubbing down the ffnal coat of ffnish. lt's sonewhere in between these peaks that I get bogged down in som€ of the rnore nundane chores of woodworkins. Specifically,it's the process of makingsue the su sce is rcady to take the finish. tt's at this point that aUthe little problems and mistakes that have been building up ftom the beginning of the Foject arc now staring me right in the fac€. .. and I have the challenge of fixing them. It's alsost this stag€ofthe project that every woodworker's favo.ite activity, begins ... sanding. (As I said, there are parts of woodworking that t enjoy nore I find it ersiest to approach finishing like anJthing else in woodworking. It's a senes of steps to obtain the desired result. But it's alsoa seriesofdecisions.Onceyou nake a certain decision,to stain the project for example,that decisionatrectsmany ofthe steps that lead up to it. I try to develop a pla for finishing at the start of a Foject and carry it through to th€ €nd. UNDETCONSTRUCTION While I'ln building a project a little voic€ Bonewhere in the back of my head keeps asking me, "How will what you'rc doins now aff€ct the appearance of the final finish?" The voice gets louder at certain points in the consfuction proc€ss. EDGE.GLUING. One ofthe first times this hppeft is when I'm edge-gluing sevelal boards to form a wide panel. 'IVo things are important here: color and grair structllle. To play down a joint line, I try to select the pieces so the colors and grain blend into each other. It'E a matter of being caretul now instead oftrying to selectively stain or bleach later to get a unifom appeannce. ExcDssGLUE.Another time I hear that voiceiswhenit comestime to glue. Excess glu€ in a joirt will cause"squeeze'out."ff thesebeadsand globsaren'tremoved, the finish, especially stain, won't pen€trate into the wood. It e.ds up lookins like the piecehas chickenpox. The problem is that some of these glue
20
spotsare difficult to seebefore you start finishing. I usually se€ the globs at the joints, but alwaysnanage to miss a lisht fingerprint smearin the middleof a board. It seemsasthoughevery woodworkerI know has a theory about when this slue shouldbe renoved. Thesetheoriesrun all the way fron inm€diaiely wiping the excessglue away with a wet rag to waiting until it gets completelyhard and then chippingst it with a chis€lor scrap€i I asree with John Moser,Fesident of WoodFinishingSupplyCompany,whenhe explains: "The t)Tical rvhit€ and yello'' giues go th.ough certain stages as they dry First they skin over. If you try to r€movethe glue at this stage,you openup a blister that just depositsfresh slue alt "If you let it dry a little longer (usually aboutan hour), you cango over it with a scraper (I use a paint scraper) and the globsactuallycomeotrin the; entirety. lf youwait toolong,they're toughto get oft " 'ooPsEs."There's one more thing you shouldwatch for wh€n a proj€ct is under corstruction.Around our shop we call " Thesearethe little dents, them"oopses. chips, goug€s,and ssatches that ah,vays se€mto happenwhen you least expect
I'm really talking about tbre€ ditrerent thinss here: dents, wher€ the wood cetls are cnshed; chips where the wood cells are actually rnissing; and gouges and scntches wherc the wood cells are sever€d. DEirIs. If a blunt objeci (like a hammer) strikes a piece of wood, the wood cells are crushed and col' lapseinto iheirhollow centers.All the cell walls arc still th€re, but they're compressed.That's a dent. Sometimes a dent can be raised back to it's onginal l€vel by simply applyinga dmp of water to it. The water flows into the wood and Bwellsihe walls back to their original shape. If the water needs a little helpjn order to pe.etrate th€ cellwals, I may prick the spot ith a pin. OrI use a. iron. l take apieceof datnp cloth or paper tow€I, put it over lhe dent, and hoidahotironto it until the cloth ddes out. The ion causes steam to penetrate the wood cells and s ell them back to their oiginal shape. After it has dried thoroughly, it can be sanded. In addition to najor dents, the minoronesthat collecton the surfaceofthe workpiece ca. be assravatins. It seems like somewhere duing a project I will set dowr a piecc of wood on top of a chip or dned glue glob on rny bench.This usually causesa minor dent that has to be.ais€d. Ken Bultch, a professionalrefinisher and o ner of The Hardwood Connection in DeKalb, Illinois, tells an interesting story about some rninor de.ts he once had on a "When I first got started I took soject; someboardsto a localcabinetshopto have them resawn and run throush thei thicknessplaner The dust cotlectionsystem on the planer asn't operating corectly and the feed rollen smashedall the chips down making d€nts all over ny nice cherry. "I thousht I could easily repair it by using a belt sander to erase all the rvood surounding the dents until the suface got down to th€ir lev€l. When everJ'thins was lev€I, I put a slass-smooth finish on it. "It wasn't until a couple yearc later that dtuaster struck. Th€ seasonal chanses allowed nositure in the ail to slowly enter the wood. The stress in the dents was relieved and son€ of the dents are now raised spots. If I codd do it again, I would have raised the dents first." cHrps. A chip or a splinter is diff€re.t from a dent. ln this casethe vood is actu-
WOODSMTTH
ally missinsand moistue rvon't help. The fiISt thing I do when a splinter flies offmy work (this seens to happen a lol when usins a router) is gel dola on rny hands and knees and staft lookine throush the sawdust.Sonehow it alwaysseemsio find a resting spot under lhe very back ofthe bench.When I r€scueit, I puta little glue on it and clamp it back in place (usually masking tape works best to hold a small splinter while drying). When it's dry I'm usually abte to sand it smooth. corcEs. A gouge or scratch is sonething cornplelelydifferent. In this casethe sood celis have been severed. Moisturc won't help and there isn't a chip to replace. I think you are facedwith thre€ choices {ith a gouge or missing chip: Fi$i, you canset asidethe pieceand stadover Wait, do you meanlhrow it in the scrapbinl Yes, that's often the best solution if it's in a cdlical spot such as a tabletop. Second,yo! canlive withit. Especiallyif it\ a deep gouge that can't be sand€dout aDdyou don't want to replacethe piece.In this situation I developthe philosophythat it's part of the "characte/' or "patina" of tbe piece. I always feel belter Nhen I tell ml,selfit might have happenedwhenit was moved upsiairs to the living room. Finallx you can try to repa; it. Unfodunatelt', this sometimescreatesmore problems. If not done properly it makes the gouge or chip mor€ prominent.
ha.sfening a scratchinto what lookslike a lars€ d€nt). On an edse I feather a gouse or chip untii it bl€ndsin wiih the edse. Ifthese methodsdon't work, the subject alwaysluns to filling. At lvoods,iitn, we tryto keepouruseofputtiesandfill€rs to a mininum. (I'm iaiking here about wood frllerc, not pqste uaod.filLeft that are us€d to fill pores in open-grainedwoods.)Putties and fillers always look io me like a band'aidsolutionto a mqjorproblem. For example,s'e might useputty to fillin alonA aj oini line wher€ it isn't soobvious.But we don't use ii in the middle of a tabletop to puTTrEs.There are a wide lariety of plasticputli€s, $aterputties, puttJ sticks, cabi.etmakerh waxes, and bun-in sticks on themarket. They're advertisedas being available in "an assortment of colors to
That's aiways bothe.ed me. Even though a common brand plastic putty is availablein both "Lisht Oak" and "Dark Oak," I can't remembereler seeingactual oak wood only availablein ts'o colo^. It's availablein an infinile number of .olors. And as natural oak agesit darkens.Plastic wood fillers don't. Their color may siarl oul as a close match. but it rarely stays that way. And then th€ patch stands out. Color isn't the only problem. Somefillers are inconpatible \rith vadous finishes or arc designedfor other uses.Water putty (a powder mateiai) won't accept any R€PAIR5 stainsoroils whenil's dr} (It'sused when With ashallow gougeor scratch,I'm often the surfac€ s'ill be painted). Cabinetable to plane, scrape, or sand the sur- maker'swax never gets compleielyhard. roundins $ood. On a flat sudace I try to Putty sticks also don't get hard and are even it out by feathering oul the sur, best used for filiing nail holes aft./ firrounding area to create a shailorv de ishing. Burn in sticks (also cailod shellac pression(This depressionhas to coler an sticksand lacquerslicks) are usually used area3 to 4 inchesin diameteroryou'rejust to repair damageon finished funiture.
FllflSHlilG
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pl,-{sTrc puTTrEs- Plastic putties (of which there are many bnnds)have onebis advantageover theseother nllers: They'rc madefrom actualwoodfib€rs and a plastie binder. The wood fibers allos's then to accept stain and gives th€m some of the qualities of wood and t|e plastic binder hastensthe set-up time. (Out of all lhe fillen$e've tried, the one lliketheb€stis caliedFIX WoodPatch. I use it mosily for filli:rgjoint lineslhat aren'ias tight asthey rnight be. It also acceptsstain berter than most of the otbels.) MIxI\c YOURO\t:_.The main problem with a1lofthese manufacluredproductsis that they're not 100%wood. You'reintro, ducins a for€isr substancethat works dif ferenlly Uran the sood itsell t.or this reason sometimesI'll mix mx o$'n fiLler with fine sas'dust and a ferv drops of the finish I'maoingto useon the proj eci. I use the mi)ituremosl oftenon the end grainof a joint, suchas a boxjoint, where it canlun dark (and it wili) and won't be noticeable. One other thins. Ma.y people recom mendmixingglue with sas'dustasafiller.I hav€foundthat when glueisused, it effectively seals oul any frnish altogether crcating wlrite blolches. ush_c THE wooD TTSELF. Probably tlre bestsoiutionforbisdefectsis to usea piece of the wood itseLf.-{ plug cut out of the boftom of the piece, or a piece of leneer canoften bepatch€dirto a spot. It's a more permanent solution and easier to color maich and finish. f llt MAnK5 Themostcommo.p.oblemI runintoin just abouteveryproj ecl ismill marks.Theseare uniformlyspacedridgesthat run aooss the width ofplaned lunber They're caus€dby the rotatjon ofa planer orjointer's knives
... fromourshop
. BL{CK BLOr\]SES, Black marks often appear at joint iines (paticulariy on oak) anlvhere glue cornes in coDtact with pipe clamps. These narks are the result of a chemicat r€action between the water in the glue, the iron jn the pipe clamps,and the tannin in the wood. ft prevent this, plac€ strips of waxed paper between the clanps and the wood at the slue line. . coLoREDGLUE.Add a drop or two of tood color to slue so it shows uD better. This is parti;larly h€lpful ro; finding smea in places ahere you don't expect
o
. REMovrNc BURNS. Using sandpaper . cHEc{ FoRsMEARs, Oneof t}e most to removeburnmarksh a lot of work. A difficult problemsto catch is a light glue handscraper(a 3 x 5 pieceofsteelsharp- smea.r.ft checkfor these,wipe or spraya ened\rith a bur:r edge)do€sthe job easily fine rnist of naphthaover tle surface. - especialyon €nd grain. Iffor no otler (Naphthais aclear,non'staininsliquid that reason,it's worth learning how to sha4en won'traisethe glain.) 3 scrap€rro remove bums, . TAcl(RAcs.Tb make your own tack . woRKrNcoN rNsrDE coRNESs, Wlen ras, use a pi€ceof cheesecloth, a clean gluing up a cabinet,don't usea darnpcloth handkerchief,or a wetl-washeddiaper. to removeglueftom an insidecorner - it Saturatethe cloth with tupentine and just slnearc and creaies a bigger mess. wfing it out thoroughly.Apply streaksof Inst€ad,wait until the gluehasreacheda vanish acrossthe cloth, roll it up, and pastestase(about20 minutes),and re- wins out compl€tely.Continueadding moveit by runninsthe comerof a hand varnish until it's evenly distributed in the . P A | N TS C R A P E nW h e n e d s e s l u i n s scraper alongtheinsideconerofthejoint. Iag and th€ rag feels sticky, not gummy. bodds, the slue squeeze-outaittrJ;orni . ANGLEDLICIIT,To check for mill Storein a sealedjar or Ziplock bagsothe lines can be easily removed with a paint rnarks and sandinsscratches,hold a me, rag stays tacky. scmper - the kind used to scrape paint off chanic'slight at a low angleover the wood. Wlen usings tacklag, hrhtll $'ipethe houses. I bousht one that has a removabl€ Thelow-anslelight will createa shadowon entire surfaceofall dust. Don't rub hardor blade so I could sharpen it - a dull blade even light scratches.I use a clear (not the vamish will be depositedon the work' "skates" over the surface. fi.osted)light bulb to createmore glare. pieceand interfere with finishing. WOODSMITH
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taking shalow "bites" out of the wood. If sandpapercomesin. It provides conth€ knivesare dult or the feedrate too fast, sistency.Consistentlittle scratches. the idg€s really standout. It helpsto know a little aboutthe differThe first probten with mill marks is ent tJT€sof sandpaperandgdts. (Seethe findins then. Sometimesthe*e difEcult aticle onsandpaperin Wood$mtrn No. 33.) to see.But if I get my eyesdolvnat a very saNDrNcRourrNE.I usuaily start sandlow angle to the wood, I can usually see ing with aluminumoxide paper (100grit) somefaint ridges. on an orbibl palm sandex Fron there I OnceI find them, the next problem is jump to 120,then 180,and then stop. I rcmovingthem. (If they'renot rcmoved, finish off by handsandingwith a blockand the secondthe finish soeson they'll stick 180gdt paper moving with the grain to out like turlows in a freshly plowedffeld.) removeany ofthe slight srvirls causedby A couplelight passeswith a shary plane the orbital actionofthe palmsanderThat's usuallydoes it. I find it's easiesttodo this as far as I go. on all the wood brlo'reassenbty. Therearc sornepeoplewho go up to 600 OccasiomllyI'll usea pador belt sarder grit, but I thinL it's ridiculouE.Sanding (wjth 100g"it paper)to rernovemill marks. this ffneburnishesthe woodffbels andfins But I ffnd it oftentakesa lot ofwork with a the por€s$'ith fine dust. Stainswon't soak pad sander and I alwaysget a little ner, in evenly and oile won't penebate. Be, vous about Cougingand rounding edgeg sides,who likes sandinsany nore tha.n with a belt sander. Sometimesafter the project is as, Ken Budch says,"The biggestmistake sembledI'11discover some mill marks I woodworkersexperienceis when they (Thisis have mill ma*s or def€cts- they grab rnissed. In thisca8eI useascraper. a 3 x 5 pi€ceof steel with a cuttins burr on 220 sdt sandpaperand wo* fol houls. the edse,s€etvoodstti.it,No. 14.A scraper Sometimesit Beemsbarbadc what you alsoworksquicke.than sandinglor remov- hav€to do, but for the sakeof speed,you ing machine,urns causedby planers, shouldso to the appropiate grit." routers,andsaws.) A scraperworh bestif Let's back up a bit with a fe specific it's heldat an angleto the idges sojt's not questionsabout sanding: riding up and down with them - but it's Should.n'tI makeEMeI s&nd.urith eaah cutting otr their tops. gnt a n rd jump gits? 'lom Eck6te'n,^ RrDcEs,sNrpEs,,rirD TEAR.ou[ In ad- product developm€ntengineerfor 3M dition to mill marks, planers ard jointers says,"There'sreally no rcasonto go every have a way of doing other undesirable g"it step. The reasonthere are so many thinss to your wood. A small chip in t}le grits is sorneof thern are d$igred speciknivescanleavea little idge the length of ficaily for very specialapplications.And the board. This canusualy be scrapedoff lvhen yo start using them you wort see with a hand scrapen any benefit going up every number" If the planeror jointer isn't adjusted Will I seta,l,ifrerenIlookinslini:h bascn corr€ctly,a snipe(gouge)canbe taken out on hnufinz I Band,? To sore extent this is at the beginningor endof the boards.Once true, but it also depen& on the wood again,thk hasto berenoved (or better yet you're using.Tomexplains,"If I havenic€ cut off), or it will stand out like a sore straisht gain oak and there aren't any thunb after ffnishing. knotein it, I've stoppedas low as r20 grit And there's alwaysthe possibilityof and stain€d it. Becausethe coarseg"ain gr3in tear-out where the grain shifts di- narks in oak are working with the grain rections(suchas a.ound a knot). This and the sanding marks are perfectly usually hasto be sandedout. aligned. But closedsrair woods,like maple or clear pine, arc going to show IANDINO eve.y scratchnark.So you're gotngto When pr€paring this article il Beemsas want to moveup to the 220g"it Ians€ on tlough questionsabout sandingcameup the rnost.Jerry TerHark on the statr of the I ethtre ana timz it's oka.uIo so,nd, o,cross woodfinishingprogramat DakotaCounty tha grain? I\l\ the bookf' say rfl,ar sand Area VocationalTechnicalInstitute in acrossthe grain. But I thinl there's two Minnesotaexplained,"Without the proper timesit's okay.tn the initial stag$ of sandsandingmanythings showup onceyou put ing whenI $'ant to renove a lot of$'ood, I your stain and ffnish on. A good sandins useabelt sanderto go acrossthe grain. I'm job will eithernake or breakthe piece." iust trying to quicklyget the surfacelevel. Whendoyoustart sandirs?Ifat all pos- Then I follow it up by sandingor handsibl€, 6elor?assembly. . . but after plan- planingwith the srain to removeth€ crossing. I've alwaysfound it €asiestto use a grain scratches,andI proceedto sandwith handplaneor scraperto s€t out all the mil finer sdts. na*s andgenerallyflatten the s&face. The other situation whenyou're almost But it'3 difficult to get a consistentsur- forc€dto sandacrossthe grain is at a joint faceall the way acrossa tabletop with a whe.etwo pi€cesof woodcometogetherat handplaneor cabinetscraper That's]vhen an angle,suchas a miter or mil and stile.
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Onthesejoints I ]vant the t]vo piecesto be level acrosstheir faces.Sardingacrossthe joint doesjust that. In this caseit's almost a necessityto sandacrossthe srain on on€ ofthe piecesBinceit's difficult to cometo a halt right at the joint line. ftm Eckstein explains his nethod for sandingmiters, "I sand the cornersa couplegrits finer than I would normaly. Wlat happensis that I still sandacrossthe grain on one of the frane piecesbut I'm sandingwith $rch a fine g"it that it doesnt nake much difference." Shntld I mise the gnin ba lLvttitig thz ubotl. and. then santl.it offi Weitins Ihe fibers alows any cell wal13that havebeen Fessed downor damasedfrorn sandingto swell and standup. Tnenyou canlet it dry and rcrnovethe whiskerc by sandingat a slight angle to the grain with 180 grit To be honest, I don't find it necessary. Theonly exceptionto this wouldbewhenI plan on using a water-basedstain or dye. Ihen it's necessaryor the stain or dy€ will raise the grain when it's applied. saNDrNcHrN"rs.A couplefinal thoughts on sandins. Wrlen usirs a pad (or palm) sanderbe sure that the sandpapercan't moveon the botton ofthe pad.TomEcksteinexplains,"Youonly generatesomuch power in the motor and if you let it slip betweenthe padandthe sandpaperyou're generutiDgheat - not sawdust. It's just rubbing the back of the sandpaper." As the last step in sanding,I go overthe entire pmject and softenthe sharp edg€s (technicaly,the arises). I doD'trealty mund them, but just make one pass to breakthen with 120srit paper.lt removes the knife-sharyedges,helpspreventsplintels, and gives a comfotable feel to the piec€.ln addition. surfaceffnishesusually will rub risht off a sharp edge. IINAT INSPECTION The last bit of advicecanbe sumnedup in one wo.d: patience. Don't .ush into ap plyingthe finish.I makeonelast inspection for any renaining Foblem areas. I start by brushins otr the majority of the sanding dust and then lightly wipe the wholepiecedown with a tack rag. With aI the dust otr, any final nistakes or probiemsbecomeapparenl Onceagain, holdingthe pieceat a low angleto the light helpsmakeany problemsstand out. If it looksokay,I go aheadand ffnish it right a*ay All kinds of things happento unsealedwood sitting around our shop. Humidity alone can raise the gnin in a coupiedays.Not to nention everyonewho has just come back from lunch at McDonald's. It never fails . . . I just linish sandinsand they comein with th€; oily fingerc to ch€ckout my sandingjob. And then it's backto that enjoyabletask of sardirg. Sometimesyoujust can't win.
WooDSMITH
Thlking Jhq AN OPENFORUMFORCOMMENTS AND QUESTIONS tHE ELUS|V! y." RASAat Btt h WoodsmithNo. 36, Joa mentianedthat ltox ha.l beenhoking for a cdrbid.elipped, haLIbeu'ing rabbetingbit to cltt a L" toide mbbet. I tun itto the same problen, htlt I'N coDte p ltith a solution. Wh&t I di(l uas purchase a Sears tA" carbide tipped rabbet bit (#9GT25582, g1a..l9c.italogltice).I abo p\rchosed the arbot set (#9GT25895,56.69catalosptice) .far the nbbetiry bit. This set includes a )/!-dio. bealiig for cuttins %" bide rab. bets,ard a %".di(r. beanig (md bushiils .lbr cutti,4 !/6" Dide rabbets. %- FAiNI Ot OllCO BEAI|NG
P.oDucE, //rA\\ \\\3ry,/ !iJr^B*T
o Ta ) educethe Ltidth of the rebbetta t/i' , I pltrchasedo il" oLtside diametet beqi g (Foltiln #S1KDD) o.t a beorins suppltl house that.fitt oxer the Sears bushillg supplied rith the ls"-dia. beaihs. ?his co,tbitntion prcd.ucesa /" corbide.tipped ball bearitry rabbetins bit.
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5ItOKING SAND!RS?
I haE a qlrdtian abaut a potential sofet! proble\t ilt na shop. Wheneur I'rn to d ins a praiect in ,t!t basenent shop, the basemeti becotnesfilletl. Lrith Mr! fnte saixlitLg tlust. Recoxse mlt gas tuater On the aubide (top) foce. th€ lid is er hcatet td.futnace are both contpletelll pose.lto t hedry inteior aiL did shnnlls as etpded, I'n concened that the sdnditlq it dies out. Olt the i side .face, u:herc d|st noa be a.lire ol erplosia haza l. t h e , e ' sl i t t l e i f a n ! . i r c l u t i o n o f t h e d r y illtenor air, the tap rcmains basicall! the R i c h a r dK d r c l i t z sa,e. The end rcs lt afthis nibalance is LiLbtnt, Georyia that the tap curls up. ot c1!ps. The cabitpt shop I talked to stlgg^ted To find an answer lo youl question,I con- attachill{t cleats an the ilside face of the tact€dlhreeexpe{s: our localnre marshal, lid to help hoLditflat. Wha( do aotLthink, our state OSHA office, and the National is this the onsuer to kecping the lid tlat? Iire ProtecrionAssociation(NFPA). lfso, hon sha?kl the cleatt be attachedto Fifsl of all, I foun{l out ther€'s a sis nificant differencebetweena dust fir€ and an explosion.A dust fire occurs s'hen a Joe CtL (i( paticle of dust comesin contact with an SatLItSte. Moiie, Ontatia igniting source(suchas an open flame). If there'sa high enoughconcentralionofdust This winter, we had exactly the sameprobparticles i. the air, every time a palticle lem. Slowlybut surely,the lop on thechest burns, it ignites lhe other paticles around st3l1edlo cup.And beforeiong, ihere was it. This candevelopinto a chain.eactiona ;'gap betweenthe lid and th€ froni of or flashfire that spreadslike a wave across
A dust €xplosion, on the other hand, resulrs fton] a large flash Iire that occuN in a tishtb €nclosedarea. Howeler, for an e{plosion to occur,it lakes just the ght set ofconditionsandsequenceof events-It shouldbe ofsomecomfot to know ihat ii's all bui impossibleto produce a dust exEarl Cla* plosioni. a home workshop. HoU,ytd, Telds Even a flash fire in a home shopis only theoreticaily possible, according to Bob We've tned to purclase beadnssfor fab- Benndeiti of the NFPA. It would almost betins bits several times in the past. The hale to b€ intentional like throsins a problemwe kept running into was findins bucket of sasdust in the air in front ofan a bearins that had the coneci inside dia- openflame loachievelheconcentration mete! to fit the arbor on a rabbet bit. ofaibome dusLneededto keep the chai. Finding a bearing with a %" outsidedia- reactionin progress. met€r "'as easy,but trying to find onethat Inahomc shop,€leD durinsheavy sandfit on a rabbet bit - any rabbet bit $'as ing conditionsrvith lilUe ventilation, the .ext to :mpossible.Or so s€ thougbt. concent.ationof sa.ding dust in the air As soonas I read Earl's id€a, I calleda just isn't hish enough for a flash nre to local beadng supplier and sule aouslr, occur. And by simply providins a litrl€ thev had the beaingthat fit overthe Sea$ lentilation, there shouldn'tbe a probLem. bushing alrhoush it was a differanl CT'RIINGCABIN!T 'OPs brand a.d stock nunber (Delco 77R4A). They said it's a twicat bearing, and if a I brilt the hlanke( .lpst sno&, ;i woodsupplier doesn't have on€ of these two smithNo. J9ond tl lurDfd ant beaulititll!. bmnds, they shouldbe abletocloss refer- Hau?.rer,I'xe rui itto a problem. Whe l ence their nunbers to a brand th€y do brcuoht tt i| J rot rLlt goi age shop it Late Decenfter,the top .uppcd (iont to back) After we purchasedthe beeing, every- aJtef onL!!o couple o.fdaals.1 rrls ./e|dslhing q'ent together pefectiy. And s'e've tated nhen I sauj this ttfter all tna hqrcI beencuttins %" rabbets ever since. uork hand cutti|s the dotietails.
IVooDSIflTH
I contacteda bcol cabinet slnp, and the! erplained that the dr! air inside out ho8e uasn't oble to cnc hte insid.ethe chest. This co ed a naisture imbalance betueen the nBid.e ond o tside Jncd of
As you mentioned,one way Lohelp prevent the top from cupping is to attach clealsaooss the n'idth ofthe lid. The thing torememberwhenusingcleatsis that they nust stitl allo\r Lhe top to expand and contract,while at lhe sametime help keep the top from warying. The rvav I do this is to cut an oversized shankholefor the woods$€ws.This allows the woodscr€wroom lo moye rith the lid as it expa.ds and contracts, while at ihe sametime keepingthe cleat tiAht against lhe lid to resist warying. Although usins cleats\i.ill help prevenl some of th€ cupping, this isn't a cure-ali. Undersevere conditions,the top may still cup to a point- (After all, part ofthejoy of working with solid wood is that jt's still alive €noughto nove.)
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Sources PTIPATATION 5UTfACE We nentioned in the article that we like FIX WoodPatch. W€ buy it locally since there arcn't any mail order soulces.Find the locationof the nearcstdealerby callins the Darworth Co. at 800-6247767. We talked to a numberof helpfin people to get the infornation for this article. Spe cialtha.ksso to KenBuftch,Fofessional refinisherand owner of The Hardwood Connection,a fine tool and woodstore in DeKalb, lllinois; Rick Stohr,banch rnanagerof 3M'ssudacepreparationFoductsi ftm Eckstein, 3M product dev€lopment THEwooDwoRKERs sroRE.(address engineer;Jerry TerHark, on the staff of abote). Dmwer sbnes (l set), 18" lo.s, the wood finishing plogram at Dakota OrderNo. D?fll, $13.25per ser.2"Plate County Arca VocationalTechnicalInstiCasrers,OrderNo. Clt43 (black),$16.40 tute in Minnesotaand owner of a refinishing shop;and John Moser presidentof coNsr{xarNEs, 2050EastchesterRoad, WoodFinishing Supply Conpary. (Note: Bronx, NY 10461;800'223-8087 Jerry TerHark explainedthat the $?.50ninimuln order. Catalog:$1.00). DCAVTI wood finhhing progran is the GIa$ Door Hiwe (2 pair), Oder No. only Fog"am of its kind in the counhy.It's GH7030(Black),$4.45per pail. SiA Ot a ten-month,accreditedprogram that Hendlesfor GtaesDoors,(4), order No. trains students of aI agesto becomeacFormore CP701r (Bhck), 5.75 ezch. Mrynetic complishedfinishers/refinishe$. TolLchLatch, double unit, Order No. information about the program contact Jerry at DCAVTI,1300145thStreetEast, ML772,$3.45each. We had a local slass supplier cut two Rosemount,MN 55068(612)4n4362. pi€cesof vr" smokedglass to the conect John Moser has offercd io help any sizefor the dool.ls.The total bill $r0.7a. Woodrmit, reade$ who want turther infomation aboutprepadngthe surface,finIEO/BUNKSIDS ishins, andBehlenffnishingFoducts. The You can order the hardware for the beds Wood Finishing Supply catalogbegins $'ith a thoroush descdptionofhoit to preand bunk bedsfroml TrrEwooDwoRt{ERssroRD,(address Da.rethe surfaceand use a variety of finishins materials. Then there's a d€sc.ipIffierts (4\, tion explaininswhen, wher€, and ho$ to For sinsle bed: Thrcaded. yl6"x #18, order No. D396r,$.32each. use eachof the pmducts they carry' The Fof bunk beds, Fot|| more Thrca1led cataloqis available for $2.50from Wood FinishinsSupplyCo., 126?Mary Ddve, Ins?rts (same as specilied above). tltr, (315)986-4517. (knock-doun)Iitttrgs (4), D4r70, $.50 Macedon, NY 14502;
DOlt ctAott Youcan order the screw hole buttons for ihe don cradle from: srroRE,21801 lrTrrEwooDwoRKERs dusfial Bodevard, Rogers,MN 55374; (Not€:$?.50minimumcash (612)42&4101 oder. Catalog: S.'?u HoleB ttons $2.00). (8), Birch, v1, Order No. 81011,$1.25 per 50. w,vcn StaND Youcanorder all ol the hardwareneeded for the TV/VCR stand from the folowing
Ior drawers and dra er guides:Six n.orc Tbeaded.Inserts (sameas specified zbo\er. 2' Plate dasters (2 sets), Order No. C1143(black),$16.40per set of four. We purchasedthe nacti,?e bolb (%,i'x ly{") and Ddrl.ersfor the threadedinserts and the six m€?dtuj' straps (%" x 6") neededfor the bunkbedladd€randrail at a local hardwarestore. ns thebedsthat Wediscoveredindesig thereis somevadancein the dimensionsof twin size mattresses and springs. Most statethat they will 'frt a 39" x 75"bed" but the actualneasulenents are smallex We useda mattr€ssand 2" thick nattressboardfrom Sears(catalogno. 1A 70109N, $27.99)that actultLlymeasures371/1'x74". But the bed is desi$ed to hold any mattress 36"to 39" wide.
loox oN trNrsHlNG In researching thearticleonpreparinst he surfee we foundan excellentbookaboul and6nthesurface.re6nishins, DreDarins istrlire.wood Finishinoond E,ftnhhins by S. lV. Gibbiahas step-by-stepinstructions on aI phasesof ffnishing. It's availablein hardcoverfor S14.95 ppd. (Oder No. I0LO4-CY)from Woodcraft Supply Corp., 41 Atlantic Avenue, B o x 4 0 0 0 ,W o b u r n , M A 0 1 8 8 8 ; Note: $10minimumoder 800-225-1153. Catalog:$3.00(sedited on ffIst ord€r). wooDwotKrNG cluBs We keepheadngfrom woodlvorkingclubs all ov€r the country: WOODWORI(ERS'ASSOCIATTONOF TO. PEKA. A year and half ago Cleo Mc Donald
got a group of woodworkerstogether to showthem his continuins shopproject, a one-qua*er scalecollectionof early American tools. This a$ociation sprang fton his presentationand hasgrom to over 30 members.If you are interested, contact 9421NW 42nd CleoMcDonald,President, Str€et, Silver Lak€, Kansas66539. SA}I DIECO FINE WOODWORI€RII ASSOCI.
arroN. This growing group on the west coastmeetsonceevery two months. For more infomation, contactChuck Meechum,President,Po. Box99656,SanDiego,CA 921m. THE WOODWORXXRSCUILD OF CEO&CL{,
INc. Cha es Boelkins,secretaryof this goup, recently calledto get the namesof other woodworking orsanizationsjn the southeasternUnited States.He explained they are plandng a major regionaljulied sho* and would like to contactinterested clubs.(lfyour cl b wants to get invotved, contacthim at the addrcssbelo*) The Guild hasbeenin exisiencefor five yea$ and has over 100 members.They neet every month in Atlanta. Their project to donatetoys to a children'shospital was recently featured on the tetevision shorv"PM Magazine." Find out moreabout Cha.lesBoelkins,PO. themby cont-acting Box 1113,Conyers,Georgia30207. OF THE LEX' THE WOODWORKER.S'CUTLD INCTON (MA) ARIS AND CRAFTSSOCIETY. This guild has 50 nen and women whose
skills ranse from beginner to master claftsman. They provide a well-€quipped shopfor the use of their menbers. New nembers are lvelcome.To learn more about the Guild, contactthe Memb€rship Secretary, 130 Waltham Street, Lexington, MA 02173. TERCwooDwoRKlnccLuB. This group has about 250 membe$ and a very comby the pletewoodworkins shopsupported Tennessee EastmanCompany.They are involved in community projects such as Toysfor ftts ad building an outdoorfitness trail. Get nore infomation by contactins Jack Bracy, President,TERC WoodworkingClub, PO. Box l9?2, Kingsport, TN 37662. NORTH TEX-{S WOODWORXERS'CIJILD,
(An update).In Woodst;ift No 35 we list€d ihis group in the Dallas arca. The cortact Dersonwe printed at that time has moved.ihe neir co;tact is GlodaJacobus, 9500lnwood Road, Datla., TX 75?20. SouthernlIinois. A group of woodworken is oreanizingin southen Illinois this spdng.They are lookingfor belp, sugandmembers.Ifinterested,consestions, aactTomHar ey, Rt. #1, Box 12A,Creal Springs,IL 62922. WOODSMITH
