DEVELOPING NEW PATTERNS AND DESIGNS FOR THE LOCAL WEAVING INDUSTRY IN PAOAY, ILOCOS NORTE Lawrence A. Eclarin*, Ciriaco T. Ragual, Wilben Christie R. Pagtaconan, Lawrence Lawrenc e John C. Tagata, Tagata, Leonila Leonil a Y. Y. Rico Mariano Marcos State ni!ersit" Cit" o# $atac, %&'( )locos orte Phili++ines Eail- su.athgail.co su.athgail.co// Tel. o.-0(1 22 (2' %3'4
Abstract Moder Mod erni niza zati tion on af affe fect cts s ou ourr cu cult ltur ure e an and d tr trad adit itio ions ns in va vari riou ous s wa ways ys.. Industrial Indus trializatio ization n and globalization globalization have resu resulted lted to a more competitive competitive market for locally manufactured products. This study was conducted to aid in the development of patterns and designs for the local weaving industry in Paoay, Ilocos Norte and establish means to sustain the local weaving tradition. Patterns were generated using a computer application based on a mathematical algorithm. eaving drafts of patterns gene ge nera rate ted d we were re us used ed as ba basi sis s fo forr th thre read adin ing g an and d th thre read adlin ling g co coun unts ts.. !u !urv rvey eys, s, consultation meetings and training programs involving weavers and stakeholders were conducted. New patterns were generated and used for weaving. The woven cloths were used as materials for bags, clothing and upholstery. "hallenges and problems faced by weavers were identified which included the need for locally spun cotton. "onsultati "ons ultation on meet meetings ings with the local weav weavers, ers, bench marking with othe otherr weav weaving ing communities and the conduct of training programs provided useful information to aid in the sus sustai tainab nabilit ility y of the loc local al we weavin aving g tra tradit dition ion.. The stu study dy est establ ablish ishes es the importanc impo rtance e of rese research arch in prod product uct deve developm lopment ent and innovation. innovation. The pro#ect also highli hig hlight ghted ed ho how w re resea search rch can hel help p pr pres eserv erve e our cul cultur tural al her herita itage ge and for formul mulate ate solutions to problems facing local industries. $eywords% loom weaving& pattern generation
INTRODUCTION The The 'bel Iloko is an integr integral al +art o# the culture culture an5 arts o# the Ilokanos. Ilokanos. 'bel Iloko is a collecti!e ter that re#ers to the wea!ing +rocess 6abel 6 abel 7 an5 the wo!en +ro5uct 6inabel 6 inabel 7. 7. )nabel are classi#ie5 into !arious t"+es which e+lo" 5i##erent techni8ues- banderado 6#ro the ter bandera or bandera or #lag7, consisting o# colore5 stri+es/ binakol , with o+9art swirls calle5 kosikos/ kosikos/ nagkudil or #ace9to9#ace, re!ersible 5esigns/ sinukitan or insukit , ebroi5ere59li:e 5esigns/ an5 others. The aterials use5 #or wea!ing wea!ing are ostl" ostl" cotton cotton but these can also be 5eri!e5 #ro other unli:el" raw aterials aterials li:e baboo, baboo, saluyo saluyott an5 e!en seawee5s. The use o# the inabel is !er" coon in househol5s aong )lo:anos which inclu5e rags, table ats, runners, be5 sheets an5 +illowcases. )n ore recent ties, 5ue to the ingenuit" o# the )lo:anos, the inabel has #oun5 its +lace in #ashion where the #abrics are use5 use5 #or 5esig 5esigner ner gowns gowns an5 suits, suits, an5 in interio interiorr 5esig 5esigns ns where where inabel inabel is use5 use5 #or cushions cushions,, u+holster" an5 others. Moreo!er, the continue5 growth o# touris in The )locos Region has hel+e5 in the +rootion o# the inabel. )n the Pro!ince o# )locos orte, the unici+alities o# Paoa", Sarrat an5 Pinili are well :nown +laces #or wea!ing inabel. )n Paoa", Paoa", the agbacalan Loowea!ers Loowea!ers Multi9Pur+ose Multi9 Pur+ose Coo+erati!e Coo+erati!e 6LMPC7 hea5e5 b" Mrs. Charito C. Cariaga is lea5ing a5!ocate in the +rootion o# Abel )lo:o. The coo+erati!e was #oun5e5 in 3&&% which originall" consiste5 o# a #ew #eale wea!ers but now has ore acti!e ebers. The coo+erati!e su++orts trainings, seinars an5 e!en +ro!i5es #inancial assistance to their ebers in or5er to sustain the in5ustr".
Mathematcs a!" the Abe# I#$%$ The obser!able +atterns seen in loo wo!en +ro5ucts has caught the interest o# an" atheaticians. The +a+er o# $a"las et al. 6%'3%7 +resente5 atheatical conce+ts e;hibite5 b" wea!ing +atterns on the #abrics o# the orthern
7 use5 atrices to generate colore5 transiti!e +atterns that a" be use5 #or wea!ing but the results cannot be wo!en 5ue to technical as+ects o# the loo. $" a++l"ing the results o# ?. ?ernan5e= 63&&@7 to create +leasing 5esigns #or a=uleos, which are tin9gla=e5 tiles a5e in S+ain an5 Portugal, new +atterns were generate5 using a techni8ue 5escribe5 in his +a+er. Pagala et al. 6%'347 were able to create new +atterns #or the Abel )lo:o using canonical atrices o# +rie 5eterinants as 5e#ine5 b" ?ernan5e=. With the a5!ent o# o5ern technolog" which result to 5e!elo+ents in +ro5uct 5esigns an5 inno!ations, locall" anu#acture5 +ro5ucts #ace a ore co+etiti!e ar:et o# global stan5ar5s. Moreo!er, there is waning interest in the wea!ing tra5ition aong the "outh as e!i5ence5 b" the #ew nuber o# "oung wea!ers. The local han5icra#t has been 5e#ine5 as a B5"ing tra5ition 5ue to these reasons an5 other challenges #acing the in5ustr" at +resent 6)nabel, un5ate5.7. This stu5" was con5ucte5 to 5e!elo+ new +atterns an5 5esigns #or the local wea!ing in5ustr" which coul5 hel+ sustain the wea!ing tra5ition. )n +articular, +atterns were generate5 #or new 5esigns, trainings were con5ucte5 to enhance wea!ing techni8ues an5 +roote wea!ing to "oung +eo+le, an5 regular consultation eetings with local wea!ers were organi=e5 to i5enti#" +robles an5 #orulate solutions.
METHODOLOGY The stu5" was con5ucte5 in Paoa", )locos orte. The LMPC loo wea!ing #acilit" in agbacalan an5 the loo wea!ing center o# Mariano Marcos State ni!ersit" 6MMS7 at the College o# )n5ustrial Technolog" ser!e5 as +roect sites #or loo e;ecution testing an5 #inal +ro5uct wea!ing. The stu5" was a collaborati!e research between MMS an5 LMPC an5 use5 a cobine5 RD an5 0 research 5esign. A atheatical algorith was #orulate5 to generate new +atterns an5 a co+uter a++lication was 5e!elo+e5 to translate these to wea!ing 5ra#ts. The 5ra#ts were use5 #or loo e;ecution an5 wo!en +rotot"+es were e!aluate5 #or +ro5uction. Ge!erat!& Ne' Patter!s a!" Des&!s )n or5er to create the new +atterns, the #ollowing conce+ts were a++lie5.
A %;% s(uare matri) is an arra" o# nubers, written in the #or
s8uare atri; is gi!en b"
are integers,
[ ] x 1
x2
y1
y2
x 1 y 2− x 2 y 1 . A s8uare atri; written as
a > b ≥ 0 an5
. The determinant o# the
[ ] a
0
b c
a,b,c
where
c > 0 is sai5 to be in canonical form.
The net generate5 b" a atri; in canonical #or is a subset o# a s8uare gri5 generate5 b" the two
[] a
linearl" in5e+en5ent colun !ectors
0
an5
[] b c
.
The #ollowing ste+s outline the techni8ue e+lo"e5 in generating a tile +attern. 3. Set the !alue #or the 5eterinant n. The 5eterinant ust be a whole nuber. %. Enuerate all %;% atrices o# 5eterinant e8ual to n in canonical #or. Rear:- The nuber o# such atrices is gi!en b" the su o# all +ositi!e integers that 5i!i5e n. 1. Fenerate the nets 5e#ine5 b" each atri;. Gne can obser!e that the re#lection o# a net >. 4.
generate5 b" a atri; is siilar to a net generate5 b" another atri;. Su+er+ose the nets with their corres+on5ing re#lections. A tile +attern is generate5 b" su+er+osing nets generate5 in H>.
{[ ] [ ]} 7
?or e;a+le, a tile an5 the +attern generate5 b" su+er+osing the nets
{[ ] [ ]} 7
5
0
1
,
7
2
0
1
are gi!en in ?igure 3.
6a7
0
6
1
,
7
1
0
1
an5
6b7
{[ ] [ ]} 7
?igure 3. a7 A tile an5 b7 the +attern generate5 b"
0
6
1
,
7 0
1 1
an5
{[ ] [ ]} 7
5
0
1
,
7
2
0
1
A co+uter a++lication base5 on the atheatical algorith was also 5e!elo+e5 which was use5 to create co+uter +rintouts o# wea!ing 5ra#ts. Loo testing was e;ecute5 using the 5ra#ts an5 the +rotot"+es were e!aluate5 +rior to #inal +ro5uction.
Tra!!& Pr$&rams Two training wor:sho+s were organi=e5 un5er the stu5"- #or e;+ert wea!ers an5 #or beginners. The training #or e;+ert wea!ers was a trainers training #or the basic loo wea!ing wor:sho+ #or beginners. The training also ser!e5 as !enue #or the initial assessent o# new +atterns generate5 an5 to #ailiari=e the wea!ers with the wea!ing 5ra#ts. The basic training #or beginners was con5ucte5 to recruit an5 entice "oung wea!ers. $asic ste+s in loo wea!ing an5 the tools use5 were 5eonstrate5. ( RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The research +roect was able to 5ocuent e;isting +atterns an5 5esigns o# the Abel )loco. The basic wea!ing ste+s were outline5 an5 the tools nee5e5 in the cra#t were i5enti#ie5. Threa5ing an5 trea5ling 5ra#ts were also collecte5. These woul5 hel+ in the +reser!ation o# the wea!ing tra5ition b" +ro!i5ing a re#erence to #acts an5 i+ortant 5etails on wea!ing the Abel )loco. Consultation eetings an5 benchar:ing with wea!ers an5 wea!ing in5ustries in )locos orte, La nion, $aguio an5 $ohol were also con5ucte5 in or5er to #orulate a strategic #raewor: in 5e!elo+ing the local wea!ing in5ustr". Soe wea!ing institutions e+lo"e5 wor:ers on a 5ail" wage basis which +ro!i5e5 stea5" incoe to their wea!ers. This is +ossible 5ue to the continuous or5ers a5e b" costuersIconsuers. ?or the case o# LMPC, wea!ers +re#er to wor: at hoe in or5er to 5o other househol5 chores an5 since or5ers are a5e on occasional basis, the coo+erati!e is not able to su++ort a 5ail" wage #or their wea!ers. An acti!e coerciali=ation #or locall" wo!en +ro5ucts an5 a ore !isible +resence in the localIglobal ar:et will greatl" hel+ to assure a stea5" or5er o# the wo!en te;tile. $ase5 on the eetings con5ucte5, challenges an5 +robles #ace5 b" wea!ers were i5enti#ie5 which coul5 hel+ in #orulating +rogras to ai5 the local wea!ing counities which inclu5es the
nee5 #or a local source o# raw aterials #or wea!ing. The LMPC recei!es a lot o# hel+ #ro the local an5 +ro!incial go!ernent, go!ernent agencies li:e T), Phil?)A an5 GST, an5 other wea!ing a5!ocates in ters o# #inancial ai5s an5 trainings. Gther wea!ing counities are also su++orte5 siilarl". $ut still, the aor concern is the nee5 #or locall" s+un cotton #or wea!ing which woul5 greatl" bene#it local wea!ers. )n this stu5", twent" 6%'7 new +atterns were generate5. ine o# these were use5 #or #inal +ro5uction. A +attern an5 the wo!en cloth are shown in ?igure %. Conte+orar" 5esigns an5 color atching were e+lo"e5 to coe u+ with inno!ati!e +ro5ucts. The wo!en cloths were e!aluate5 an5 assesse5. Gn the a!erage, all #inal +ro5ucts were rate5 satis#actoril". The #abricate5 bags, clothing an5 u+holster" were a++reciate5 b" +artici+ants 5uring the +ro5uct launching an5 ha5 e;+resse5 interest in bu"ingIar:eting the. The trainings con5ucte5 ai5e5 in the +ro5uction o# inabel using the new +atterns generate5. The training #or e;+ert wea!ers +ro!i5e5 the +artici+ants use#ul in#oration on !arious wea!ing techni8ues, ost i+ortantl" on +ic:9u+ 5esigns which was nee5e5 in the #inal +ro5uction o# the +roect. The training wor:sho+ #or basic loo wea!ing was atten5e5 b" stu5ents an5 were encourage5 to hel+ +roote the wea!ing tra5ition. Partici+ants learne5 a lot #ro the trainings an5 were highl" e!aluate5. The" also suggeste5 the con5uct o# ore trainings relate5 to wea!ing.
6a7
6b7 ?igure %. a7 The Bmystika +attern an5 b7 the wo!en cloth showing the Bmystika* +attern.
?igure 1. Conte+orar" bags showcasing the new Abel +atterns.
C$!c#)s$!s, Research Drect$!s a!" Rec$mme!"at$!s Mo5erni=ation a##ects our societ"s culture an5 t ra5itions in !arious wa"s. )n5ustriali=ation an5 globali=ation ha!e resulte5 to a ore co+etiti!e ar:et #or locall" anu#acture5 +ro5ucts. )n or5er to atch global stan5ar5s, there is a nee5 #or our local in5ustries to i+ro!e +ro5uct 8ualit". The collaborati!e research con5ucte5 b" MMS an5 LMPC establishes the i+ortance o# research in +ro5uct 5e!elo+ent an5 inno!ation. The cobine5 e##orts an5 coitent o# both collaborators was essential in the success#ul i+leentation o# +roect acti!ities an5 achie!ing +roect obecti!es. The +roect also highlighte5 how research can hel+ +reser!e our cultural heritage an5 #orulate solutions to +robles #acing local in5ustries. +articularl" in 5e!elo+ing a co+uter a++lication #or +attern generation which can be use5 #or in5ustrial 5esign. ?or the wea!ers, the +roect intro5uce5 inno!ati!e wa"s o# generating new +atterns an5 5esigns #or the Abel )loco an5 other eans o# enhancing the han5wo!en +ro5ucts an5 the trainings con5ucte5 enable5 the to share an5 5iscuss techni8ues on wea!ing which coul5 hel+ #acilitate better +ro5uction. AC*NOWLEDGMENTS This research was #un5e5 b" the nite5 States Agenc" #or )nternational e!elo+ent 6SA)7 un5er its Science an5 Technolog" #or Research )nno!ation an5 e!elo+ent 6STR)E7 Progra. The authors also grate#ull" ac:nowle5ge the use o# the ser!ices an5 #acilities o# the agbacalan Loowea!ers Multi9Pur+ose Coo+erati!e in Paoa", )locos orte.
+ REFERENCES K3 $a"las, . A., Ra+anut, T. A. an5 e las Penas, M. L. A. . 6%'3%7 Wea!ing S"etr" o# the Phili++ine orthern 7. /enerating colored transitive patterns for the 'bel Iloko 6n5ergra5uate Thesis7. Mariano Marcos State ni!ersit", $atac Cit", Phili++ines K1 ?ernan5e=, ?. 63&&@7. A class o# +leasing +erio5ic 5esigns. The "ollege Mathematics 0ournal - %&637 5oi- 3'.%1'2I%(@2(13 K> )nabel- Mo5ern esign #ro a centuries9ol5 tra5ition. 6n.5.7. Retrie!e5 #ro htt+s-IIwww.:ic:starter.coI+roectsI3>&&&(11'4Iinabel9o5ern95esign9#ro9a9centuries9 ol59tra5itio K4 Pagala, J. C., Agar+ao, A. M. an5 Eclarin, L. A. 6%'347 'zu#elo pattern in the 'bel Iloko 6n5ergra5uate Thesis7. Mariano Marcos State ni!ersit", $atac Cit", Phili++ines K( Ragual, C.T. 6%'317. Matheatical characteri=ation o# the +atterns o# the Abel Paoa" KAbstract. 11rd 'nnual P''!2 Meeting and !ymposium +ook of 'bstracts, %%1. [7] Ro"an5o"an, R. . 6%'3%, Ma" %37. Asean #oru sets sights on regional wea!ing tra5ition an5 in5ustries. Philippine 3aily In(uirer . Retrei!e5 #ro htt+-IIli#est"le.in8uirer.net
